Fabric Garment Finishing

Assignment-1
Mercerization of cellulosic fibers

Submitted to: Submitted By:

Mr. Amit Phogat Priyal Atul Purandare
Sanvee
DFT-4
MERCERISATION
Mercerization is a finishing treatment of cotton with a strong caustic alkaline solution in order to
improve the luster, hard and other properties. It is a treatment for cellulosic material,
typically cotton threads, that strengthens them and gives them a lustrous appearance. Mercerizing
results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fiber. This causes an increase in the surface
area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer feel.

Mercerization is carried out for the following purpose:

 Improving lustre
 Improving tensile strength
 Improved dimensional stability
 Increasing uniformity of dyeing & improving color yield.
 Improving Elasticity or Stretch material

Surface of Cotton

A.) B.)

a.) Enlarged fiber segment showing the wrinkled primary wall surface.
b.) Tubular mercerized cotton fiber, showing a smoother surface.
Mechanism-

 Mercerization causes swelling in fiber

 Swelling causes Cross-section to become rounder, loss of convolutions & detwisting leading
to more lustrous surface

 Opening of fibre structure

 Increase in amorphous content due to decrystallization

 Although mercerization is accompanied by swelling, it is more closely related to internal

modification of fiber.

 Effect is observed at 18-24 % w/w NaOH solutions.

 Higher no of –OH groups available as compared to un-mercerized cotton

 Higher moisture regain, dye-uptake and reactivity

Mercerization Process:
If cotton is dipped into a strong alkaline solution such as lithium hydroxide, caustic soda, or potassium
hydroxide, the fibers swell and shrink. If the fibres are placed under tension, in this swollen state and then
rinsed with water, then the alkali is removed and a permanent silk-like lustre results. After swelling, if the
alkali is rinsed off when the fibre is in its shrunk state, good elasticity is obtained. Appearance is improved
through increased lustre, deepening of the colour and the production of a transparent look, the feel of the
fabric is improved through a resulting soft hand and improved smoothness, and strength and elongation are
improved, along with the addition of good stretching ability.

Action of alkali on cellulosic fibres

Cotton has resistance to alkali solutions.Mild alkalis like sodium carbonate have no action on
cotton.Strong alkalis with higher concentration induce structural and physical changes in cotton fiber.

Penetration of alkali

For small concentration of alkali i.e., less than 5% no penetration. As the concentration of alkali increases,
penetration will increase, and then automatically fiber swells.
What Happens To Cotton During Mercerization?
 Swelling of the fiber takes place
 Cellulosic chains gets rearranged and become parallel
 De-convolution
 Cross sectional bean shape to circular shape

Physical Changes

 Improvement in strength
 Improvement in luster (under tension)
 Change in cross section from bean shape to almost circular
 Change in longitudinal view convoluted to cylindrical

Chemical Changes

 Formation of cellulose- II.

 Improvement in moisture regains (more hydroxyl group).
 Improvement in dye uptake.
Hot mercerization
Hot mercerization ensures even dye penetration and imparts a softer handle and better
appearance. Swelling is better as compared to cold mercerization which helps to improve the
dimensional stability of fabric. Shorter impregnation time requirement reduce investment cost.
For hot mercerizing, the impregnating section is equipped with an indirect steam heating system
with temperature controlled to maintain uniform temperature.

Advantages of hot mercerization:

•Rapid alkali penetration

•Improved core mercerization

•More uniform treatment

•Dwell time can be reduced from 50 sec. to 20-30 sec.

Dis- Advantages of Hot Mercerization

 Less luster (Lower swelling)

  Higher energy consumption
 Costlier

Cold Mercerization
In the cold mercerizing the cold impregnating process impart more lustre to the fibre than the hot
impregnation system mainly due to the greater shrinkage and high tension needed the re-stretch
the fabric to the desired width.

Drawbacks with cold mercerization

•Penetration of grey cotton becomes more difficult (high viscosity)

•Swelling only in surface (heavy fabrics)

•Poor mercerization at the core and lack of uniformity.

Estimation of mercerization
Dye Absorbency Test-
In this method we determine barium activity number & estimate mercerization.

Procedure:

• In a flask 2 gm. sample & 30 ml of 0.25 N Ba(OH)2 solutions for 4 hours is shaken by a
shaker. Then the sample is taken out.

• 10 ml of Ba(OH)2 from left out solution is taken & treated with 0.1 NHCl. Methyl orange
indicator is used. First the color will be yellow & finally color of saturated solution will
be pink.

• At the same time 10 ml of fresh Ba(OH)2 will be titrated with 0.1 N HCl in presence of
methyl orange.

Calculation:

• 10 ml of Ba(OH)2 solution (blank) required 24.3 ml of 0.1 N HCl.

• 10 ml of Ba(OH)2 from an unknown sample of cotton required 19.58 ml of 0.1 N HCl.

• 10 ml of Ba(OH)2 from an unmercerized sample of cotton required 21.2 ml of 0.1 N HCl

Acceptable standard = 115 – 135

Note:

• Mercerization contains concentrated NaOH solution of 28 – 32 Be or 270 – 330 gm/l

• 15 – 20% tension is maintained.

NaOH Spotting Test-
1. Undyed fabric is spotted with 30% solution of NaOH

2. Then both mercerized &undyed spotted fabrics are dyed using

Benzopurpurine.

Observation:

 If fully mercerized: No spot

 If not mercerized: Dark Spot

Types of Mercerization:
Tension Mercerization:
• The purpose of mercerization is to increase luster of Cotton fibers

• The fiber untwists and swells, lumen becomes rounder in cross-section and it
gains luster. Dye affinity and chemical reactivity increase. Fabric becomes
stronger and smoother.

Slack Mercerization:
• Not as lustrous as tension method

• Elongation and recovery properties improve and thus have been used to produce
comfort stretch garments and fabric bandages, which need to conform to body
shapes.

Liquid Ammonia Mercerization:

 Treatment of cotton fiber with liquid Ammonia (NH3) produces similar affects that of
Mercerization.
 The liquid ammonia treatment is widely accepted for yarns used in Sewing Threads, and
special fabrics like Denims, Corduroys, Pillow material, linen, Jute and blends of
cellulose with PET and/ or Nylon.
Advantages of Ammonia Mercerization

 Less pollution
 Higher productivity
 Jute and linen can be mercerized
 Evenness and uniformity of swelling is comparatively better.

Dis Advantages of Ammonia Mercerization

 Very costly equipments

 Ammonia recovery problem, leakages will do great harm to the personnel working.
References-