Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
- - - - Katharina Buss - - - -
Big Book
of
Knitting
~
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
New York
Thanks to the Schachenmayr Company for their helpful support of this book, and for working the c10rhes and knitting
patterns. The designs are by Elisabeth Kopff (I) and Barbara Schreyer (4).
Inches cm Inches cm
Y- 0.3 10 25.4
'A 0.6 II 27.9
Ya 1.0 12 30.5
Y2 1.3 13 33.0
Ys 1.6 14 35.6
y, 1.9 15 38.1
I 2.5 16 40.6
1'14 3.2 17 43.2
1'/2 3.8 18 45.7
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
[3;'; 4.4 19 48.3
2 5.1 20 50.8
Buss, Katharina.
2'/2 6.4 21 53.3
[Urania~Ravensburger. English]
3 7.6 ZZ 55.9
Big book of knitting / by Katharina Buss.
3';' 8.9 Z3 58.4
p. cm.
4 10.2 24 61.0
ISBN 0-8069-6203-8
4';' 11.4 25 63.5
I. Knitting. l. Title.
5 12.7 26 660
TT820.B97 1999
6 15.2 27 68.6
746.43'2---dc21
7 17.8 28 71.1
8 20.3 29 73.7
99-20386 9 22.9 30 76.2
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 CIP
For information about CUSWI11 editions, special sales, premiul11 and corporate purchases, please contact Sterling
Special Sales Department at 800-805-5489 or specialsales@sterlingpub.com
Contents
Index 238
Introduction
7
Materials
From knitting needles to
stitch holders, from angora
to viscose-here you'll
learn everything you need
to know about yarns,
needles, and other useful
knitting tools as well as
important hints for taking
good care of your finished
pleces.
Needles and Tools
Stitch Gauge
This practical aid can be used to
count stitches for knitting a gauge
sample, to read off the required num,
ber of stitches, and to check the size
of knitting needles.
10
Needles and Tools
Line Marker
Using a line marker will always
keep you on the correct row
when you're working off a
pattern chart.
Knitting dolly
Blocking Pins, Tapestry Needles, All of the prodltcts shown ml !Jllges 10
Stitch Holders and I I are manllfacwred by Inox and
For blocking knitted pieces, blocking are available in craft Slm"es"
pins are longer and easier to handle
Line than normal sewing pins.
marker
Tapestry needles or blunt needles Mohair Brush, Wool Comb
should be llsed for sewing Mohair brushes can be used ro fluff
together knitted pieces, securing up mohair sweaters.
yarn ends, or for embroidery. Wool combs remove pilied wool
Stitch holders are extra~long safety and fuzz.
pins. They can be used to hold
stitches that will be worked later, Knitting Dolly
such as those for pocket bands, or if Knitting dollies are used [Q IIknit"
shoulder seam stitches are going [Q thin tubes of knitted material. For
be knit together later. people who are impatient, there are
also "knitting mills" (nor shown).
Yarn Boxes
Yarn boxes are very useful in keeping
Blocking IJim, your yarn under control-and not
tapestry needb, stitch holders just if you have a cat.
11
Yarns
12
Yarns
Camel Hair
Camel hair has a slightly natural
shine. Pure camel hair cannot be
dyed. In order to obtain fashionable
colors, camel hair always has to be
mixed with other fibers. Generally,
high;quality virgin wool is used for
this purpose, since it is very similar to
camel hair.
Metallic /101)''''''
)'am
13
Yarns
Tweed and
"libby )'ams
Pure wool
Shetland Wool
The wool of Shetland sheep is very
robust, and it is generally used to
spin country [weed yarns.
Silk
Silk keeps yOll cool when it's hot and
Specialty yams
warm when it's cold. It is also very
14
Caring for Your Finished Knit
Here's some information squee:e out the excess water. Then gauge. \Vash silk articles by
put the pieces between terryclorh themselves and move them as little
about how to wash and rowels, roll them up, and squeeze as possible. Rinse with a lot of cold
store knits so that you will them dry. water. Squeeze water our carefully
If machine washing is permitted, and allow the article to dry flat.
enjoy the clothes you use the gentle cycle and a slow Viscose is similar to silk in that it
create for as long as speed for spinning. tends to stretch a lor. Viscose is
To dry the pieces, spread them also not allowed to be pulled and
possible. out and pull them into the correct must dry flat on a tOwel.
shape. For example, cotton
P
ay attention to rhe cleaning sweaters sometimes shrink slightly
information on the yarn label. and can be stretched again while
For example, if the label wet; on the other hand, viscose
shows a washtub and a hand, the stretches, so those pieces have ro
pieces have [Q be washed by hand. be pushed together slightly. If an
If there is a number in the washtub, article is made from different
yOll can wash the items at this colors, pur cloths between the
temperature. A line under a wash- front and the back and into the
tub means that you should use the sleeves to check whether the
gentle cycle. colors are still bleeding.
Cleaning Symbols
Yarns are often advertised as being Use only a small amount of fabric
lIeasy_care." But that does not softener (and not just to protect
necessarily mean you can wash
them in a washing machine. It only
the environment). Don't ever use
fabric softener for "superwash"
bo·f Normal wash
cycle
means that they are easy [Q wash
and will dry quickly.
yarns, unless you want to use your
sweater as a dust rag when it's dry! bo·f Gentle wash cycle
Here's a tip: Write rhe Illost Most yarns wilt nor survive being
important care information onto a put in the dryer. 'C!j Hand wash
laundry tag with a laundry pen, and
~
sew the tag into the back of the More Tips for Basic Do not wash
neckline.
Yarns
Storage
Angora is especially delicate. \Vash
angora sweaters in cold water, with ~ Do not use
chlorine bleach
Knitted clothing should always be a mild shampoo, and rinse well
stored lying down. Putting them on
a hanger would stretch them out of
many times. Then carefully squeeze
the water out, roll the piece in
a Use cool iron
~
shape under their own weight. rowels, and allow it ro air dry on a Do not iron
Also, wool clothing should never towel.
lie in the sun, and it definitely Pure corton can generally be
should not be dried in the sun.
Until now, it has nor been possible
washed in a washing machine, at
140°F/60°C (see label). Use only a
® Standard dry
cleaning
to dye wool so that it does nor fade. detergent for dclicates, without a
fabric brightener. Since cotton
absorbs a lot of water and therefore
® Dry cleaning for
delicate textiles
soaked, because that quickly causes that it can't stretch very much
felting. It is best to wash knitted during washing and spinning. K:] Dry on gentle
cycle (max. 140·FI
articles in cold water with dcter~ Pure silk is nor resilient and will
gent for delicate items, and make
slife not to rub or brush them.
stretch, particularly during the first
wash. That is why you have to wash ~ Do not put in
dryer
Also, don't wring them dry-just your sample before checking the
15
Basic Techniques
Every knitted piece
starts with casting on
and ends with
binding off. Both of
these are basic
techniques, along
with increasing and
decreasing, knit and
purl, selvedges, and,
last but not least,
checking the gauge.
All of them are
explained in detail
with many photo-
graphs and drawings.
Casting On
EvelY knitted piece starts Casting On with One cast on holding twO needles together,
with a cast-on row. It Needle and pull the second needle out
before you start to knit the first row.
should not only be even, The besr·known method of casting Before you start, measure out
on uses 1 needle. This Italian cast~on enough yarn for the bottom part of
but it must also be method gives you a strong, stretch- your piece for casting on. For every
stretchable and durable, able edge that can be used with any stitch you cast on, you need abom
knitting pattern. 3A" of medillm~weightyarn, slightly
so that the edges, not to In order [0 achieve the best less for thinner yarn. Add another 8"
mention the whole piece, possible appearance, you must work to the length you have calculated. It
very evenly. Don't cast on too tightly doesn't hurt to leave the yarn a little
don't lose their shape later. in order that the first row is easy to long as you can always use it later to
knit off. But yOll shouldn't cast on sew the parts together.
too loosely either; otherwise, the You don't need a slip knot or any
edge stretches out too easily. If your other knot to start casting on with
stitches arc wo tight, you can also this method.
3
Bring the needle behind the
yarn that comes from your
forefinger ...
4 .. and draw this piece through
the thumb loop. Let the yarn
slip off your thumb.
5 Pick up the bottom piece of
yarn with your thumb again,
from the back to the front. Pull the
stitch tightly and lift your thumb
up again.
18
Casting On
19
Basic Techniques
Open Cast On
[f yOli want to add a ribbing or band
later, use the open cast~on mcrhcx:l.
This is also a way to avoid a thick seam
for pieces that are knitted crosswise.
Using yarn of a different color but
approximately the same thickness,
crochet a row of chain stitches. Pick up
a stitch from the back, crosswise part of
each crochet stitch. Make sure to pick it is on the wrong side of the work,
lip the stitches neatly, so that the chain using the thinner ribbing needle. If
stitches can be undone easily later on. yOll don't work this additional row,
After the piece is finished, pick up the stitches knit with the heavier
the first row of stitches on a thinner needles can be clearly seen (see
needle and undo the row of chain photo to the right).
stitches. Even if yOll knit the ribbing in the
Now knit the first row as if it is on same color as the rest of the piece,
rhe right side of the work, or purl as if yOll should work this additional row.
Simple Cast On
A simple cast on is nO[ good for
casting on a large number of stitches.
The loops arc difficult to knit from
the needle, and the row of stitches
does not stretch well.
A simple cast on is lIsed for short
pieces, sllch as the top edge of
buttonholes. To start a row of simple
cast on, you need a slip knot.
To make a slip knot, form a Pull both ends of the yarn
I loop with the end of the yarn.
Put the end of the yarn under the
2 while pushing the knot
towards the needle.
loop and catch it with the needle.
20
Casting On
Knitted Cast On
Used a knitted cast on whenever
several stitches have to be added at a
side edge, such as for sweaters
knitted crosswise when you need
many stitches for the side edges at
the end of a sleeve.
For a knitted cast on at the begin-
ning of your work, yOll need a slip
knoL For a knitted cast on of stitches
at the side of a started piece, always
1 Draw a loop out from the first
stitch of the row lor out from
the slip knot, if you are starting a
cast on at the beginning of a row. piece) and pull it a little longer
This method of casting on is not than normal.
good for ribbing, because it is (00
loose.
T
o start, you can cast on with 1 intend to use and as smooth as possi~ 41 starting stitches; for 90 stitches
needle or crochet a row of ble, That allows you to undo the you need 46,
chain stitches, llsing a yarn of a chain stitches or cast~on stitches
different color in each instance, or easily after the piece is finished. Needle Size
yOll can stan with the yarn you are If you intend to knit the basic pa(#
going to use and cast on the number (ern of your piece lIsing si:e 6
of stitches you need right away.
These two ways will be described in
detail on the following pages,
Kirchener rib always starts with 4
rows that are knit on needles 1 or 2
sizes smaller than the rest of the rib~
bing. In these rows, only the knit
stitches are knit; the purl stitches are
slipped, These four rows are knit
exactly the same way as a double,
face work (starting on page 160), If
you put the knit and purl stitches on
two separate needles, there will only
be knit stitches on boch sides.
Cast on 'Iz the number of stitch-
1 es needed + 1 with a different-
colored yarn and largest size needle,
2 Then knit, or pick up from the
back, the crosswise part of the
crochet stitch as follows, using the
and knot ends together (bottom), Or smallest size needles (for example,
crochet a loose row of appropriate size 2). After the selvedge stitch,
number of chain stitches (top), alternately knit 1 stitch",
22
Casting On in Kitchener Rib
Cross-over for
2 x 2 Rib
If you want to alternate Z knit, 2 purl
stitches for your ribbing, start the
same way as for the 1 X I ribbing.
After the first 4 rows, in which you
only knit the knit stitches and slip
the purl stitches purlwise,
cross 2 stitches out of every
4 so that 2 knit stitches and
2 purl stitches lie next to each other. Casting on in
Always choose a number of stitches kitchener rib
that can be divided by 4, plus 2 looks good
selvedge stitches. This means that whether you alternately
the pattern will be complete even knit 1, purl 1, or knit 2, purl 2.
after the seams are closed.
After the selvedge stitch, knit the
next stitch, as before. Then always
alternately cross 2 stitches, as de-
scribed to the right, and knit 2
stitches as they appear.
You can also cross the stitches using
a cable needle. To do this, place
every 2nd purl stitch onto a cable
needle behind the work, first knit the
knit stitch from the left needle, then
purl the purl stitch from the cable
needle.
First knit the stitch after the Now bring the yarn to the
1 next, i.e., knit stitch, passing in
front of the purl stitch. Leave both
2 front and purl the purl stitch
that is in front of it. Then slip both
stitches on the left needle for now. stitches off the left needle. Knit the
next two stitches "normally."
23
Basic Techniques
Casting On Kitchener
Rib with Main Yarn
Place the yarn around your left hand
as usual and then over your thumb.
The end of the yarn will hang over
the thumb and has to be £loom duee
times as long as the intended width
of the piece-as is the case for all
other types of casting on.
Hold the end of the yarn tightly
2 ..
between your middle finger and your
ring finger. Work the casting on and
the next 4 rows using needles one
size smaller than the needles yOli will
1 Bring the tip of the needle
from the left to the right under
the yarn, and turn it counterclock-
50 that a loop is formed on
the needle. Hold this loop,
which will be the selvedge stitch,
lise for the ribbing. wise to the left ... tight with your right thumb.
24
Casting On in Kitchener Rib
25
Selvedges
Seam Selvedge
Seam selvedge
For seam selvedge in stockinette
stitch, all the stitches are knit in the
stockinette pattern-i.e., all of them
arc knit on the right side of the
work, purled on the wrong side of
the work; vice versa for reverse
stockinette stitch.
This firm selvedge is good for any
pieces that are going to be sewn to~
gether later. So that the seam stays
flat, half stitches can be sewn togeth~
er in [he case of [hick or bulky yarns.
Also. this is the best selvedge if you
intend to knit on bands.
26
Selvedges
Convemional elwin stilch selvedge DecoTaritle chain s[irch sell1edge Selvedges in shaker kniuing
A knitted ganer stitch selvedge is of the work, knit the first stitch Then continue working in the shaker
good for any pieces worked in garter twisted, inserting the needle imo the knitting pattern, beginning and
stitch, since the rows tend to can· back part of the stitch, and knit the ending with a knit stitch. At the end,
tract more than in a stockinette last stitch; in every row on the wrong slip 1 stitch purl wise, placing the
stitch. It is also good for mohair yarn side, slip the first and last stitch purl~ yarn in the front of your work, knit 1
with very long fibers, because the wise, keeping the yarn in the front of stitch, and slip the selvedge stitch
knots can be sewn together like the your work. purl wise. placing the yarn in the
parrs of a zipper [Q allow the seam to front of yOUT work.
lie Rat (see seams, page 113). Selvedges In Shaker
With a purled garter stitch sel·
vedge, the stitches can be pulled Knitting
even tighter. For this reaSOll, this sel· This selvedge is especially attractive
vedge is parricularly good for shaker for edges in shaker knitting that will
knitting. not disappear into a seam later. It is
worked over three stitches, in each
instance, at the beginning and end of
Chain Stitch Selvedge a row. You should knit these three
stitches as tightly as possible so that
Chain stitch selvedges can be knit in this selvedge doesn't stretch out later.
two c1iffercm ways: the conventional On right side of work: Knit the
chain stitch selvedge and the decora- selvedge stitch, slip the next stitch
tive chain stitch selvedge. pllrlwise, placing the yarn in the
For a conventional chain stitch sel· frOnt of your work, then knit I TIP
vedge, bring the yarn to the from at stitch. Now continue working in the In every row, knit the first 4-5
the beginning of every row all the shaker knitting pattern, beginning stitches tightly, this will make
right side of the work, and slip rhe and ending with a purl stitch. Over the edges next to the sel-
selvedge stitch purlwisei bring the the last 3 stitches, knit 1 stitch, slip 1 vedges more uniform (see
yarn to the front again in front of the stitch purlwise, and, keeping the yarn also page 29).
last stitch and slip the last stirch in the front of your work, knit the
pllrlwise. In every rowan the wrong selvedge stitch.
side, knit the first stitch twisted, in- On wrong side of work: Slip the
serting the needle into the back part selvedge stitch purlwise, placing the
of the stitch, and knit the last stitch. yarn in the front of your work, knit 1
For a decorative chain stitch sel~ stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise, placing
vedge, in every rowan the right side the yarn in the front of your work.
27
Knit and Purl
Stockinette:
Knil every rowan
rhe rig!1t side of
che work, pllrl
every rowan rhe
wrong side.
P
ieces knit in stockinette stitch
have a flat, smooth surface.
Pieces in reverse stockinette
stitch have a grainy texture. Pieces
knit in garter stitch have a rough Reverse
surface. stockinette: PHrl
For beginners, rcxwrcd patterns e've,)' rowan {he
composed of knit and purl stitches right ,ide of the
arc best. The combination possibil~ work, knil every
row on die lVrong
ities are almost infinite. If the knit
side.
and purl stitches arc arranged
vertically-i.e., in rib patterns-the
knit stitches are more prominent. In
horizolUal stripes, purl stitches form
a clearly marked crosswise rib.
Some examples of silnple knit~pllrl
patterns are shown on page 30.
28
Knit and Purl
Knit Stitch
Purl Stitch
Attractive Edges generally pulled up a Iiulc too eel with a linle bit of practice:
much. and then the next stitch In every row, yOlI have to
\Vhen knitting pieces in stockin- is made. This way. a little bit of pull the first 3---l stitches after
ette sUlch. some stitches at the extra yarn is pushed along 1O the selvedge stitch tightly. and
sides, directly next to lhe sel- the next stitch, almosl invisibly. knit the last 3--1 stitches more
vedge stitches, look: very tighl. at every stitch. This is not so loosely.
and those in the row above obviolls within the row bw at
them look vcry loose. This the end of the row-
problem is generally even more the excess yarn spreads
pronounced on the left side. alit o\'er the last fe\v
The calise for this lies in the stitches before the
previous row! \Vllen inserting selvedge stitch.
the needle into the stitch, the These unattractive
yarn of the previous row is edges can be prevent-
Basic Patterns and Color Changes
Box Stitch
For this pattern, you need an even
number of stitches. Alternately knit
twO stitches, purl two stitches, and
switch the stitches after two rows.
Ribbed Stitch
For this pattern, alternately knit two Ribbed stire"
stitches, purl twO stitches. So that
the pattern matches at the seams,
stan with 1 knit stitch on the right
side of the work, 1 purl stitch on the
wrong side.
Crosswise Rib
After 5 rows of swckinette stitch,
knit a rowan the wrong side of the
work. This row will form the
crosswise rib on the right side.
30
Basic Patterns and Color Changes
Color Changes in
Reverse Stockinette
Stitch and Patterned
Stripes
"Lines" form when knit and purl
stitches come ·on top of each other in
h'orizontal stripes with textured
patterns. In order to have a clear
color differentiation on the right side
of the work widl these patterns, the
stitches in the first row of a new These 4 rows in aqua and white are After the first 4 rows, knit 1 row on
color have co be knit on the right in reverse stockinette stitch. The line the right side of the work and then
side and purled on the wrong side. is made in the first row of the new work 3 rows in reverse stockinette
This makes the t\Vo~color line show color each time the color changes. stitch in every color. The colors
on the wrong side of the work. will not mix together.
TIP
W'ork color panerns with an
uneven number of rows, like
the box stitch pattern with- Here the pattern is alternately 2 Here the box pattern is knit over 7
out a "line" (see column 3, knit, 2 purl, and after every other rows. The first row of each new
row 2 photo on this page), row-i.e., in every row on the right color is worked as an additional
on a circular knitting needle. side of the work, the stitches are row. It is knit on the right side of
This way. yOlI can always switched. A new color starts every the work and purled on the wrong
push the stitches to the end 6 rows. In all seed or box stitch side. This additional row is hardly
of the needle where the patterns, purl stitches in the new noticeable in the pattern. Only the
yarn for the new color is lo- color will show up as a line. stripe is a little wider.
cated. YOLI won't have to
sew in all those ends after
every color change. At the bonom, the
stitches between the
cables are done in re·
verse stockinette stitch.
At the top, these stitch-
es are worked as knit
stitches in the first row
on the right side each
time there is a color
change. This allows
better color definition.
31
Decreasing
Decreases slanted
Decreases to the left: Knil 1
seitclt afrer rile sel~
should always vedge stirch, then
"',~ r.., be worked in work a single de~
crease; slip tlie
, \. such a way next sritch knir~
¥JJj
t: _",{,{
I ""
W
hen working rounded or
slanted shapes at the side from Ihe end of Ihe
edges-such as armholes, roUl, knit rhe next
V~necks, or raglan pat[erns-individ~
2 stieches togelher,
knil 1 stitch, r1len
ual stitches have to be decreased at
work lhe selvedge
the edges, These decreases should seitch.
always Illatch the design of the piece
and the knitted pattern.
If ailly I stitch has to be decreased
at the armhole or the neckline, yOli
can simply knit or purl the selvedge
stitch together with the stitch next
[0 it as needed. However, for raglan
32
Decreasing
Knit Decrease
For a I ~sti[ch decrease slanting to the
right within a knitted piece, knit 2
stitches together.
Slip Decrease
Work a single decrease slanting to
the left by passing 1 stitch over the
other.
Twist Decrease
YOli can also work decreases slanted
to the left by knitting the stitches
twisted. This will cause the stitch on
top to twist.
33
Basic Techniques
Purl Decrease
In reverse stockinette stitch, you can
work all the decreases by purling 2
stitches together. However, if the de-
crease is supposed to be symmetrical
on the stockinette side, purl 2 stitch-
es wgcrhcr for a decrease slanted to
the right.
34
Decreasing
Double Decrease
Slanting to the Left or
to the Right
If you wam [0 decrease 2 stitches,
you can knit 3 stitches wged1cr for a
decrease slanted to the right. For a
decrease slanted to the left, yOll can
knit 3 stitches together twisted, or
you can work as described on the
right.
For decreases in the wrong side On both sides of the edge, purl to- For this band, 3 stitches are purled
rows, slip 1 stitch. On the right side, gether 2 stitches. For the band tip, together 3 times. The last decrease
knit this stitch together with the knit together 2 stitches on the right is worked with the knit stitches
stitch in front of it. On the left side, side of the center, and a decrease to slanted to the left (see above).
work a decrease slanted to the right. the right is worked on the left side.
35
Increasing
(see also sleeve increases in open~ the increases can be worked in the
work patterns, page 192). first TOW of the pattern. However, if
the body of the piece is being worked
Increasing Several in a complicated cable, openwork, or
jacquard pattern, it is easier to work
Stitches the increases in the last row of the
If several stitches have to be in· ribbing. This gives you the right
creased at the sides, such as for the number of stitches right from the
body of a sweater knit crosswise, you first row of the pattern.
can add the stitches at the beginning Some patterns require double in~
of a row by knitting them on or by a creases after the ribbing-for exam~
simple cast on (see casting on, page pie, if you arc going to continue to
For slanted edges of sleeves 20-21). However, it is better to knit work i.n a ribbed pattern or in shaker
and sides, wider parts after them on. If you use a simple cast on, knitting. Such increases are the most
the edge will not be as stretchable, attractive if you work a twisted purl
ribbing, and many different and these stitches are also more diffi~ increase before and after the purl
textured patterns, stitches cult to knit off. stitch, and knit the purl stitch.
have to be added in
Increases After Double Increases
different ways. All the Ribbing Within a Piece
various kinds of increase are Stitches also can be increased after In some patterns, double increases
explained in detail on the ribbing. At the waist, a few increases have to be worked within the knitted
are generally sufficient, but after piece, i.e., a stitch is increased on
following pages. tight wrist ribbing, the number of both sides of one or several center
stitches to be added is generally stitches. If yOll work these increases
greater. These increases should be the same wayan both sides of this
distributed evenly over the entire center stitch, the increases will both
width of the piece so that you don't be slanted to the left and look
get ugly "bulges." And the increases asymmetrical.
Increases for Slanted should be worked twisted so that no
holes appear.
Edges If a simple pattern is used after the
These increases are generally knit ribbing, such as stockinette stitch,
into the horizontal part of the yarn
between 2 stitches by twisting the
strand so that no holes will form.
It is best not to work the
increases directly
next to the
selvedge
stitches, but rather 2-3
stitches in from the edge.
When the pieces are sewn
together later, using an
invisible seam, the crosswise
parts of the yarn can be sewn
\XflIenever )'ou Juwe ro
together precisely. I recommend increase several slitches at dIe
an increase next [0 the second sides. Sllell as {or items [hat are
stitch, particularly in openwork knit crosswise, kJlir the stitches 011
patterns, since the horizontal threads (see casting on, !)(lge 21).
pull out of shape even morc when
the yarn is wound around the needle
36
Increasing
Patterns with
Decreases and
Increases
Here are twO more examples of pat·
terns in which double decreases and
increases (orm the basis of the par·
tern. The increases are worked with
yarn over; the double decreases are
worked with the center stitch on top.
37
Basic Techniques
38
Increasing
Increases In
Ribbing
In 1 x 1 ribbing, you should
always work double in-
2 ..
creases. To do this, increase
1 Using the left needle, pick up
the horizontal thread between
2 stitches from front to back, and ...
purl it. The new purl stitch is
on the right needle. This in-
crease creates a visible little hole.
1 stitch with a twisted purl
out of the horizontal thread
after a knit stitch, then knit
the next stitch (which was a
purl stitch), then increase
another stitch with a twisted
Twisted Purl Increase purl out of the next horizon-
tal thread. In this way, the
ribbing is maintained even
after the increases.
:1 ~t ~,
.
~
2 ..
~,,~
1 Using the left needle, pick up
the horizontal thread between
by inserting the needle into
the back part of the loop from ~ ~T:
1:~~~
2 stitches from front to back and left to right. This prevents holes in ,
purl itlWisted ... the knitting. On the stockinette stitch 'i
side, this increase slants to the left.
39
Basic Techniques
40
Increasing
For increasing in the stitch of the Over the same stitch, knit 1 stitch In the same stitch, knit 1 stitch, knit
previous row, don't pick up the in the stitch of the previous row, 1 stitch in the previous row, and
horizontal loop, but instead insert knit 1 stitch, and knit 1 stitch in the knit 1 stitch. Don't drop the stitch
the needle directly into the stitch in stitch of the previous row. Don't from the left needle until all 3
the previous row and knit it. drop the stitch from the left needle stitches have been made.
until all 3 stitches have been made.
41
Binding Off
You have to bind Binding Off by Knitting hook. For a looser edge, such as for
neck bands that will be turned in
Stitches Together
off stitches at the end of and sewn down later, use a bigger
When you bind off by knitting hook,
knitted pieces, at armholes stitches together, you get a firm edge Insert the crochet hook imo the
and necklines, and also for that doesn't stretch much, because stitch the same way you would knit
the binding~offstitch is only as large the stitch following the pattern: for
buttonholes, You can as a normal stitch, since it is picked stockinette stitch from from to back;
choose from among 3 back up onto the left needle. In nor, (or purl stitch frol11 back to front.
mal binding off, on the other hand, No matter how you bind off, there
different ways: binding off the stitch is usually pulled our a little will always be 1 stitch left over at the
by passing stitches over when it is passed over. end of the ro\\'. Draw the end of the
Knitting the stitches together is yarn through this stitch and pull it
each od1er, binding off by therefore good for patterns in which very tight. Then you can sew the
knitting stitches together, or the stitches tend to pull together, yarn end into the selvedge stitches or
such as cable patterns as well RS for use it to sew the pieces together.
finishing with crochet. jacket or pocket bands that arc not
supposed to stretch. Also, it is very
good for shoulder seams, since it will
keep the seams from strerching out.
Binding Off by
Passing Stitches
over Each Other
42
Binding Off
Binding off by
IJ(lssing stitches
over each other
in stockinette
stitch: For l){lr~
[ems widl kni!
stitches, knit rhe
stitches and chen
bind ,',em off by
passing one Oller
the Ollter.
For patterns with a stockinette
stitch background, knit the
selvedge stitch and the next stitch,
then pass the selvedge stitch over
the second knit stitch. Keep
knitting 1 stitch at a time and
passing the previous stitch over it
until all the stitches are bound off.
Binding off by
passing stitches
over each other
in reverse stock~
inette stitch: For
pauems with Imrl
scllches. purl [he
stitches and [hen
bind ,It.,n off by
passing one over
the mher.
For patterns with reverse stockinette
stitch background, work selvedge
stitch and purl next stitch, then pass
selvedge stitch over second purl
stitch. Keep purling 1 stitch at a time
and passing previous stitch over it
until all stitches are bound off.
Binding off by
knitting stitches
together: Tilis
results in a finn,
Jlon~s[retc1lQble
edge, which is
especially good for
pllHerns LilaC Iflmll
wgeiller, " such as
cable p{l[cems, OT
for bancls and
buttonholes. Knit the first 2 stitches on the left
needle together, twisted, and put
the finished stitch back onto the
left needle. Keep knitting 2 stitches
together until all the stitches are
bound off.
43
Basic Techniques
Finishing wir/t a
croche< hook also
produces a neat
edge. The size af
rhe erochel hook
determines tile
scrercJwbility
af tile edge.
44
Binding Off
45
Binding Off in Kitchener Rib
Analogous to casting on in
kitchener rib, there is an
especially professional- -
,I ;Il' ~ffi
~1
;.'"
:1~1 ~~
.7'
looking way of finishing r' r'
~ ~
your pieces; it's called ,'0: ~f ~,
46
Binding Off in Kitchener Rib
47
Basic Techniques
48
Binding Off in Kitchener Rib
49
Gauge
Cable pllHems
Before you tend to 1",11
start knitting rogel/ler in
comparison with
an article of swckinetle stitch.
clothing, ThaI is wh)· )'01(
JllllSt work a
you should separale sample
IJiece for each
always knit a lJattem lind check
sample to check your gauge! Ihe gauge.
50
Gauge
TIP
Even if your sample piece
has the correct gauge, check
your work again once your
pieee is about 12" long.
Many knitters work differently
when they have a lot of
stitches on the needles, as
Differem compared with working a
kinds of ribbing out sideways
small sample piece.
stirch and slightly before measuring.
row COlHHers Pieces worked in shaker
are available knitting also stretch out
in needlework as you wear them. You
11
stitches per 4 and a desired width of
stores. should stretch samples 22", you will need 66 + 55 + 2
..... worked in single shaker selvedge stitches = 123 stitches in
knitting the long way slightly, while [Oml.
samples worked in double shaker
knitting should be stretched sideways
slightly, before you COUllt the number
of stitches and rows.
For cable patterns, you need morc
stitches than for stockinette stitch. If
51
Perfect Details
The details are what's important! Whether it's a
simple ribbing or a double facing, neckline or
collar, pocket or buttonhole-perfectly
worked details decide the
quality of your finished
pIece.
Bands, Hems, Ribbing
54
Bands, Hems, Ribbing
Wirh twisted
srirches
With Twisted Stitches
In the rows on the right side of the
work, alternately knit I twisted stitch
and purl I stitch. In the rows on the
wrong side of the work, alternately
knit I stitch and purl I twisted
stitch.
Rolled edge
Rolled Edge
For this edge. work about JA" to 11,4"
in reverse stockinette stitch, then
work in stockinette stitch. \'{Iork the
rows in reverse stockinette stitch
with a needle one size smaller so that
the edge does not become too loose.
Garter Stitch
Edges worked in garter stitch do not
roll up. Knit all the rows.
Ganer
stitch
55
Perfect Details
Mini-ribbing and
Jacquard Border
If you want to work a jacquard border
into the band, because of the yarn
carried on the back of the work, yOll
either have w work a double hem
(page 58) or start with a very narrow
ribbing (in the phaw, it was started Mini-ribbing
by casting on in kitchener rib). and
A border worked in stockinette jacqluml
stitch is not stretchable. It is there- border
fore good for waist-length sweaters or
long sweaters with a side slit. \'(Iork
with needles one size smaller than
the basic pattern requires to the enu
of the border.
Two-color Ribbing
Here the 2-color rows are worked
liuo-color ribbing
using the jacquard technique
(starting on page 142). The selvedge
stitches always have to be worked
with both yarns.
After the casting-on row, in the
next row, on the wrong side of the
work, alternately knit I, purl I, then
continue in 2 colors: In the rows on
the right side of the work, work the
knit stitches with the first color, the
purl stitches with the second color,
and vice versa in the rows on the
wrong side of the work. Make sure
that the yarn nor being used is car-
ried at the back of the work in the
rows on the right side of the work,
and at the front of the work in the
rows on the wrong side of the work.
At the end, continue ribbing in just
the first color for another 2 rows,
then continue in the deslred pattern.
56
Bands, Hems, Ribbing
Openwork Pattern
with Points
Bands of openwork arc also very at~
tractive on sweaters worked in stock~
inette stitch. The increases and de~
creases usually result in a wavy edge,
°IJenwork which does not roll up or only rolls
IJQltem with lip slightly (pattern chart on pages
lJOinlS 2ISff.).
Openwork Pattern
with Garter Stitch
This pattern is also good for bands,
since it does not roll up because of
the garter stitch. The length of the
pattern can be varied; it is always
offset by half a pattern repeat (pat-
tern chart on page 219).
Openwork
pauem
wirll garter
stirch
57
Perfect Details
Picot Edge
For this decorative edge, instead of
working the turning line with purl
stitches, work a row with yarn overs
on the right side of the work. For
this, you need an even number of
stitches and must work this row as
follows: selvedge stitch, ':'knit 2
stitches together, work 1 yarn over,
keep repeating from*, selvedge stitch.
Afterwards, purl I rowan the wrong
side of the work and then work the For a row of openwork, alternately ... knit them together with the
same number of rows as before the knit 2 stitches together and work 1 stitches on the working needle. Or
row of openwork. Then knit the yarn over. Pick up the stitches of continue knitting and turn the hem
stitches together with the picked~up the casting-on row as for the after the piece is finished, and sew
stitches of the casting-on edge. double hem, and ... it down at the appropriate point.
58
Bands, Hems, Ribbing
Then turn the facing in to the On the right side of the work, you
inside and sew it down. see a neat, flat corner.
59
Knit-on Facings
'r
60
Knit-on Facings
61
Perfect Details
A facing in 1 x 1 ribbing is very The facing is less stretchable if you The same facing bound oft in
stretchable if it is bound oft as the bind it oft entirely with knit kitchener rib Isee pages 46ft.l.
stitches lie. stitches.
For this facing, alternately work 1 rows, alternately knit 1, purl 1. You For a rolled edge, add about 10" in
stitch in stockinette stitch and 1 stitch can bind the facing oft with knit reverse stockinette stitch. This will
in seed stitch: On the right side rows, stitches on the right side, or as they make the edge roll towards the
knit all the rows. On the wrong side lie in a wrong side row (as shown). outside.
62
Knit-on Facings
For pieces knit on the diagonal, a Then work a stitch out of every slip . .. and for this facing, they were
facing is easier to work and also stitch, catching both parts of the picked up from the back. Here the
more attractive if you crochet a stitch. For this facing, the stitches slip-stitch edge makes a nice
slip stitch through every row along were picked up from the front ... transition.
the edge.
For this garter-stitch facing, the Worked around the corner: If a twisted knit stitch and a twisted
stitches are bound off in a rowan facings are supposed to be worked purl stitch. In order to get a nice
the wrong side of the work as knit all around, stitches have to be in- angle, 2 rows with increases and 1
stitches. creased at all the corners. These row without increases have to be
increases turn out best with yarn worked alternately. For knit in-
overs purled twisted. At every creases, make sure that the ap-
corner, knit an additional knit stitch pearance is symmetrical (see sym-
out of th.e corner edge stitches. On metrical increases with yarn over,
both sides of this stitch, the in- page 401. Bind the stitches off after
creases are made alternately with the desired length is reached.
63
Perfect Details
Double Facings Pick up the facing stitches as knit the edge at which the stitches were
stitches, as for single facings. Now picked up, you need 1 row more for
Fundamentally, double facings, such work in ribbing pattern or in stock- the back half of the facing.
as at the front edges of a cardigan, inette stitch (Q the desired lengd1, \Vhen using the ribbing pattern,
give a piece more hold. They also then work a row of purl stitches on the facing is a Iitde flatter if you
look good from both sides and don't the right side of the work and work the pattern offset by 1 stitch in
tend to fold over to the inside or continue in the pattern. In order to the second half.
omside. be able to sew the facing down OntO
Five rows stockinette stitch, 1 purl Turn the facing in to the inside and another. As you are sewing,
row, and 6 rows stockinette stitch pin it down carefully so that the always catch 1 stitch of the knitting
were worked for this facing . stitches are exactly on top of one and 'h a selvedge stitch.
-- _
_....
....
............ ... -
..... .......
....
~ ~_.- ~--
.. - ..
_-~-_
.................. .,4
~:..
_
-,-
---
.. _~ _~ 4'''
..
... ..
.....
-.-
- ..
---.......--
~ -..,.-
_..,
->
;-_
.,..-
,..:,...",.
~
-.
-~
.1
...
..
................ - -.
... 4~ _ __ ••
• 1> .., _ 4.
~
.. 4' .. _ ..
The finished facing looks good When you work a double facing in ... and sew it down the same way
from both sides. ribbing pattern, shift the pattern as for the facing in stockinette
over 1 stitch for the second half... stitch.
64
Knit-on Facings
S
O that armhole facings don't
stick oU[ at the shoulder,
knit 2 stitches togethet 4
times, in coral, in the binding-off
row before and after the shoulder.
In 2 X 2 ribbing, purl 2 purl
stitches together. In 1 X 1 ribbing,
knit a purl stitch together with
the next knit stitch.
The second way of making
armhole facings slightly slanted is
double decreases at the shoulder.
For this, make SUfe there is a knit
stitch at the shoulder seam. In the
next~to~last and last row on the
right side of the work, slip this
stitch knitwise with the stitch
ahead of it, knit the next stitch, Tal) IJ/ioco: On rhe orange facing, aI/ A binding-off edge
of rhe stitches were bOl/nd of{
and pass the slipped stitches over
llo111UlIl)'; rhe facing cOllles awa)'
that is too loose ...
(sec also decreasing, page 35).
Bind the stitches off as they lie in scraig/lf from the slwillder. ...can be corrected afterwards:
On the yeilolU and light yellow
the last row on the right side of Pull the stitches of the binding~off
facings, 2 scitclles were knir wger/lt!'f 4
the work or the next row on the rimes; chis makes rhe facing fir beHer. row up, one by one, using the tip
wrong side of the work. of the knitting needle (see also
Borrom IJltoro: 2 double decreases m page 45). After they have been
the shoulder assure a good fir for an pulled lip, the binding-off stitches
amlhole facing. lie precisely along the top edge in
the correct size.
65
Knit-in Facings
Facing worked in
srockinerre stitch,
with raised slil)
"itch, before being
sewn down
On
cardigans
and vests, the front
facings can be knit as you
are working the piece itself.
Double facings look partiClI-
lady neat. They give the
piece a professional touch WIlen y01l sew lhe
and also make it fit better. facing down on
the wrong side,
sew part of rhe
second scicch and
che stitch nexc to
tile facing together.
Double Facing in
Stockinette Stitch
When you make a double facing in
stockinette stitch, the half of the TIle finished
facing seen on
facing that is turned to the inside
lite rigltt side
needs co be 1 stitch wider. In the
example shown, the facing is 5
stitches wide on the outside, 6
stitches wide on the inside, with the
selvedge stitch. In between, a slipped
stitch ensures a good turning edge.
For sewing the facing together, it is
also important that you work a row
of reverse stockinette stitch between
the cardigan piece itself and the fae,
ing. This purl stitch can hardly be
seen from the outside in stockinette
stitch or textured patterns, and
disappears inw almost all other
patterns too. TIle finished
The slipped stitch is only worked facing seen on
every other row. It is either slipped as lhe wrong side
if to purl in the rows on the right
side of the work (carry the yarn
along at the back of the work) and
66
Knit-in Facings
67
Perfect Details
68
Knit-in Facings
For the shonelled above the fourth and fifth stitch: Slip
rows, work IIJ] the fourth stitch, knit the fifth stitch,
to the facing and pass the slipped stitch over, then
and lltm with a work the yarn over. Knit the yarn
yam Oller.
over on the wrong side of the work.
This way, the bmwnhole will always
lie between 2 knit stitches. It can
hardly be seen btl[ is nevertheless
good for small to medium-size
buttons (see also the section on
buttonholes, pages 100ff.).
Buttonholes are worked in the
facing on the right front for women's
cardigans and on the left from (or
men's cardigans.
69
Sewn-on Facings
Work ribbing to the desired length, Then undo the additional rows, 1
then work 2 more rows in a stitch at a time, and sew the facing
contrast color. on, using back stitch.
T
o make sure thm the open
stitches don't come undone
before you sew the facings Oil,
work 2 or 3 additional rows with a
conrras( yarn on the facing. Always
lise wool or a rough yarn for the
additional rows. If you use cmwn or
a similar smooth yarn, the stitches
will come undone too easily.
Single Facings
For a single facing thm is sewn on, To make this clear, the seam was Sewn-on facings look perfect on
cast on the appropriate number of worked with a contrast color. the finished piece.
stitches and work to the desired
length in the main color, then
another 2 rows in ribbing or s[Qckin~
cne stitch with a contrast color. different ratio, such as 5 stitches for longer so that the facing can be sewn
For open casting on, the number of 6 rows. down on the outside over the picked·
stitches is based on the number of up edge. Then come the TOWS in the
rows in the piece. Here again, the Double Facings contrast color.
following general rule applies: You
need 3 stitches for 4 rows (see also Double facings that are sewn on are
knit-on facings, pages 60ft). This first knit on. To do this, pick up the
means: If yOll worked (20 rows, you stitches on the wrong side of the
need about 90 stitches for the work and then work a turning edge
facing. Divide the number of rows after the desired length (1 row of
by 4 and multiply by 3. A few purl stitches on the right side of the
stitches more generally doesn't hurt, work or 1 row of knit stitches on the
hut you should never cast on fewer wrong side of the work, or an
stitches. If yOli knit the facings very openwork row for picQ(s, page 58).
tightly, you can also choose a The second half is worked I row
70
Sewn-on Facings
71
Perfect Details
Pin the facing down around the This way, a neckline edge that
neckline and then sew it on as didn't come out very neatly can be
described on the previous pages. covered up.
72
Crocheted Edges
73
Perfect Details
74
Crocheted Edges
7S
Necklines: Round and Square
I
n normal patterns, the neckline
width is about one~thircl of the
entire back width. The front
neckline is usually 2" [Q J" Jeep, the
back neckline is JA" to I 'A" deep.
The wider the neckline, the Aatter it
should be. A boat neck, which is
bound off straight across and not
rounded, requires the widest
opening.
Start the decreases over the center To the left of the center, work a stitches together to the right of the
stitches. To do this, bind off about single decrease over the first 2 center. This gives you a neat
one~third of the neckline width over stitches of the decrease, and purl 2 rounded edge.
the cemer stitches, or pur these
stitches ontO a stitch holder for knit-
ring the ncckband on later. \'Vork the After the shoulder stitches are sewn
remaining decreases in such a way or knit together, knit the neckband
that the edge becomes rounded. For on with a short circular needle.
example, if the neckline is 32 stitches Always starr picking up the neck~
wide, first bind off the center 12 band stitches at a shoulder seam. At
stitches on the front part. Then bind the short straight parts just before
off 3 stitches once, 2 stitches twice, the rounded part. pick up 4 stitches
and I stitch three times, every other over 5 rows, between the selvedge
row, on both sides of the center stitch and the first stitch. Starring
stitches. For the back part, in this from the larger decreases (2 stitches
case yOLi can bind off the center 20 and more), pick lip I stitch Ollt of
stitches, or put them on a stitch every stitch. As you pick the stitches
holder, and then bind off 4 stitches With the end of the yarn that is up, make sure that you pick up the
once and 2 stitches once, e,·ery other used to continue the right side, neckbanJ stitches, not from the
row, on both sides of the center even out the step first. To do this, bound~off stitches, but rather from
stitches. pull the yarn through the first the whole stitches underneath them.
Since the decreases arc not worked binding-off stitch and then sew it Otherwise the stitches will be off
in every row, steps will form. In order in on the wrong side of the work. relative to one another, which is nm
to flatten these our, a single decrease attractive (see detail photos and
is worked first, for the first decrease drawing).
of 3 stitches (Q the left of the center; the first 2 stitches are purled
then the other 2 stitches are bound together for every decrease, and the
off. If only I stitch is going to be other stitches rue bound off
decreased, work only the single normally. To decrease only l stitch,
decrease. To the right of the center, purl 2 stitches together.
76
Necklines: Round and Square
Ii
Correct: Pick the neckband ... because this is the Incorrect: If the stitches ... they look half a stitch
stitches up out of the only way you can have a are picked up out of the off relative to the pattern
whole stitches below the neat transition to the binding-off row, ... of the piece itself.
binding-off stitches, ... neckband.
77
Perfect Details
o/rned,in
Turned In and and sewn-down
Sewn Down neckband
Dot/ble neck,
Double Neckband band done in
Done in Stockinette slOck;nelre 5[;[CI1
Stitch
A neckband worked in srockincnc
stitch blends right in with the sweater.
:,; .'
Here, a row of purl stitches was worked
as the turning edge; depending on the
pattern, yOll can also use a picOt edge.
In order for the neckline to lie flat
against the neck rather than standing Railed-edge
lip, decreases and increases are worked neckband
at the shoulder. Every other row before
the tuming edge, work a double de~
crease on both sides of the shoulder
stitch (page 35). After the turning edge, ;' "',
" ,',
increase 1 stitch knit twisted out of the
horizontal threads on both sides of the
shoulder stitch for every other row.
78
Necklines: Round and Square
Open Collar
For this collar, start picking up the
neck band stitches JA" to 11A" to the
right of the center of the front. At
the end of the row, cast on the addi·
tiona I number of stitches for an addi~
tional PA" to 21h". Then work in rib·
t
bing pattern for 4" to 4 31f bind the
,
' ..
,. :i
Square Neckline
Preparing for a square neckline is
very easy. Here the neckline stitches
are put on a stitch holder. Then work
straight up both shoulders from
there. Bind the shoulder stitches off
and sew the seams, or work the
seams in grafting stitch.
For the neckband, pick up the
stitches with a shon circular
needle, starting at one shoulder.
Pick up about 4 stitches out of 5
rows at the side edges (see facings,
pages 60ff.) , At the corners, an add-
itional stitch has to be worked each
time. In the first round, make sure
that these corner stitches are knit. round. Always work the first round
This means that an odd number of without decreases.
stitches have to be worked between Bind the stitches off normally when
the corner stitches along the the neckband has reached the
straight neckline edge. desired length; work the decreases in
Now work in the neckband pattern. the binding-off round too. Or work
In every other round, slip the corner another 2 rounds to bind off in
stitch knitwise together with the kitchener rib (see page 46) and then
stitch ahead of it, knit the next hind off that way, as was done here.
The added knit
stitch, and pass the slipped stitches comer scitch can be
over. If the yarn is very thin, the clearl)' seen.
decreases can also be worked every
79
V-necks
80
V-necks
81
Perfect Details
Overlapping V-neck
Band
For this shape of V-neck, bind the
center 6 to 8 stitches off aftet the
piece has reached the desired length.
Here. a single decrease was worked
over the second and third stitches,
every fourth row. On the right side,
the last 2 stitches before the selvedge
stitch are knit together for the
slanted edge.
For the neckband, first cast on a When you pick up the neckband Sew the narrow edge of the top
new selvedge stitch and then begin stitches, cast on additional sel- part of the neckband on using invi-
picking up the neckband stitches on vedge stitches at the beginning sible stitch and the edge of the part
the left-slanted side. Cast on an and end of the row. that is underneath with slip stitches.
additional selvedge stitch at the end
of the TOw too. Make sure that at the
end of the ncckband. which will be
on top, there is a line of knit stitches
next to the selvedge stitches. As is
the case for cardigans, rhe right
neckband is on top of the left neck-
band for women's sweaters, while the
left is on top of the right for men's
sweaters.
82
V-necks
Knit-on Neckband
Using Seed Stitch
Seed stitch, whcrher large or small, is
great as a finishing tollch, since the
edges do not roll up. For this sweater,
8 stitches are alternately worked in
stockinette stitch and large seed
stitch. The seed stitch pattern is
arranged in the center of the front.
Here, first work rhe slanted edge of
the neckline over the left side. To do
this, work to rhe end of the seed
stitch pattern stitches in a rowan the
wrong side of the work, (tim, and
work the first stitch as a selvedge
stitch (seam selvedge worked in
stockinette stitch). Now work the last stitches for the neckband, and work
seed stitch pattern stitch together 7 stitches in large seed stitch over
with the next stitch, matching the these stitches. Then join these
pattern, every fourth row. It looks stitches to the piece and complete
best if the last seed stitch pattern the work in reverse. Sew the
stitch is a purl stitch; then you can underneath part of the neckband to working, at shoulder seam level, and
purl the 2 stitches together. If the last the inside with slip stitches. work over these 9 stitches to the
.stitch in the large seed stitch pattern You can also continue this neck~ center of the back neckline. Sew the
has to be worked as a knit stitch, it is band for the back neckline. To do neckband stitches together using
better to work another 2 rows before this, cast on an additional selvedge grafting stitch, and sew the neckband
starting with the decreases. stitch on the inside edge, before or onto the back neckline.
Work the right side of the front in after the seed stitch pattern stitches,
reverse. To do this, cast on 8 new depending on which side you are
Without a Neckband
This neckline \vas worked without
any neckband. To do this, it is im~
porranr to work the selvedge stitches
very evenly and tightly. Here, the
selvedge stitches are purled in every
row and pulled tight.
For this neckline, the center stitch
has to be a purl stitch, so the number
of stitches must be divisible by 4 plus
1 stitch plus 2 selvedge stitches. After
the selvedge stitch, start with 1 purl
stitch in the rows on the right side of
the work, and with 1 knit stitch in the
rows on the wrong side of the work.
Double the center stitch in the last
rowan the wrong side of the work over the right half and work the first knitting, page 130) arc worked every
before you divide the front into the of these 2 stitches as a selvedge stitch. sixteenth row here, 5 stitches in from
two halves. Then continue working The double decreases (see shaker the neckline edges in each instance.
83
Polo Collars
F
or polo sweaters, the from
placket can be knit later or with
the piece. In most cases, it is
knit on later. The collar stitches are
then picked up from half the placket
parts and the neckline. YOLI will find
some tips about how [0 pick up the
placket stitches starring on page 60. Knit-on Plackets the rest of thc sweater. Pick up the
And there is a detailed explanation stitches from the edges of the slit and
about how to pick up the stitches for For the slit of the collar shown above, cast on an additional selvedge stitch
the collar in the section on round bind off the center stitches on the at the bottom edge. When working 1
necklines (starting on page 76). For from over a width of about 1'/.1". De~ X 1 ribbing, make surc that you have
women's cardigans and polo sweaters l pending on the yarn thickness, this will an odd number of stitches and work
the right placket, with the come co approximately 6 to 10 stitches; a line of stockinette stitch next to
buttonholes, is on toPi for men's in the case of the placket shown above, both of the selvedge stitchcs.
sweaters, the left placket is on top. 6 stitches wete bound off. For the collar, pick up an odd I1tllll-
The placket and collar are worked ber of stitches from half the plackets
with needles one size smaller than and the neckline, arranging a purl
stitch next to the selvedge stitches in
the first row, on the wrong side of
the work. After 4 rows, work a
double increase (page 39) every sixth
stitch (= purl stitches) at the back
neckline to create the necessary
fullness. Work the collar to a length
of about 4 to 4'11". Don't bind the
collar stitches off too tightly.
Sew the bottom edge of the top
part of the placket on, using invisible
stitch, alternately catching 2
horizontal threads of the placket and
For the necessary collar width, the a whole or a half stitch of the
increases have to be worked at sweater.
regular intervals.
84
Polo Collars
Knit-in Plackets
For the polo collar shown on the
right, the placket is knit with the rest
of the sweater, The top placket is
worked over the knit stitches of the
front, the bmwm placket is worked
out of the wrong side of the work.
First mark the center 6 stitches of
the front. If the left placket is
supposed [Q be on wp of the right
placket, work [Q just before these 6
stitches. ow alternately work 1
stitch purl twisted Ollt of the horizon~
tal thread, and knit I stitch 5 rimes,
working the last stitch as a chain
selvedge stitch or as a seam selvedge
stitch in stockinette stitch. At the
beginning of the row, especially after
the selvedge stitch, the stitches have
to be worked very tightly.
If the right placket is supposed to By increasing at the front edges,
be on top of the left one, work up to the collar reaches farther down.
these 6 stitches. The first of these
stitches is the new selvedge stitch.
Now alternately knit 1 stitch and
increase I stitch purl twisted out of
the hori:omal thread, then continue
in the basic pattem. \Vork the bllt~
ton holes (see pages 100ff.) in the top
placket.
Work the II placket stitches for the
underneath placket out of the wrong
side of the front placket stitches.
Work the ribbing pattern in reverse.
Start with selvedge stitch, l knit
stitch. For the front placket, work the purl Work the stitches for the under-
At the top edge of the neckline l put stitches twisted out of the horizontal neath placket out of the stitches of
the II placket stitches on a stitch threads. At the top edge, put placket the front placket, on the wrong
holder and then work the rounded edges on a stitch holder, then work side of the work.
part of the neckline. Then sew the the rounded part of the neckline.
shoulder seams.
OWl for the collarl first bind off
the first 5 stitches of both placket 39) every sixth stitch (= purl stitches. These increases can also be
parts without knitting them l then stitches) at the back neckline to worked every second or fou rrh row.
work the relnaining placket stitches create the necessary fullness. \Vork Keep to the pattern and alternately
and pick up the other stitches for the the collar to a length of about 4 to increase I stitch knit twisted and I
collar from the neckline. Make sure 43/4" in total. stitch purl twisted from the
that a purl stitch is worked next to In order for the collar to close well horizontal thread.
the selvedge stitch so that a knit at the front, as in the example
stitch will be on the outside edge shown, stitches are increased every
when the collar is turned. After 4 third row, 4 stitches in from the edge.
rows, work double increases (page Here l this comes to a total of 6
85
Perfect Details
86
Polo Collars
Enlarged view of the increases. This collar looks good ... ...from both sides.
In order for the collar to be full first purl 2 stitches after the selvedge 1 stitch together from both needles,
enough, you have to work increases. stitch together with the back followed by 2 individual stitches. In
These are worked when the stitches stitches, then knit I stitch together order for the number of stitches to be
are knit together in the first row of with rhe back stitch. \Vork the next correct at the end of the TOW (you
the ribbing pattern. Here, double the knit stitch only from the front have to end with 2 purl stitches and
stitches every third or fifth stitch, needle, the next purl stitch only from 1 selvedge stitch), you can leave out
depending on rhe gauge. In the first the back needle. Then purl I stitch a few increases at the shoulders.
rowan the wrong side of the work, tOgether from both needles and knit
With Double Pickup of the work, alternately knit I, purl I. side of the work. The TOW on the
This means that yOll alternately work wrong side of the work then begins
and Nehru Collar 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and 1 with selvedge stitch, 1 purl stitch.
For the pattern of this Nehru collar stitch in garrer stitch. In order for the collar to lie closely
(photograph below), you need an odd The double pick-ups are worked as against the neck, the stitches have to
number of stitches. In the rows on the for the example on page 86. The be bound off very tightly.
right side of the work, knit all the stitches of the pick~ups are always You can also work the collar in 1 X
stitches. In the rows on the wrong side knit together in a TOW on the right 1 or 2 X 2 ribbing.
87
Shawl Collars
W
herher a shawl collar is
worked 011 a cardigan or a
pullover, it always looks
best when it lies close against the
neck. For this reason, the neckline
should not be tOO large. A total
width of 6\1.1" to 7" is enough. On a
pullover. the neckline should begin
at chest height, in ocher words abom
10" below the shoulders. On a cardi-
gan, the slanted edge can start even After that, make the slanted edges bottom end of the neckline edge.
lower down. for the neckline by knitting 2 stitches Cast on an additional selvedge stitch
tOgether, next to the selvedge stitch, here so that you can sew the collar
Increases on shawl collars on the right side of the sweater, and on later. Also make sure that there is
working a single decrease over these a knit stitch on the right side of the
In order for a shawl collar not to pull stitches on the left side. For the back work next to the selvedge stitch.
up, like a rurdeneck, stitches always neckline, bind off the center 20 At the same time, when the collar
have [Q be increased at the back stitches, then 3 stitches ollce and 2 is about JA" long at the back neck-
neckline to get the necessary fllll~ stitches once, on both sides of the line, work double increases evenly
ness. For a collar knit on in 1 X I center, every other row. distributed over the back neckline.
ribbing, work double increases. To do After you sew the shoulder seams, This is the only way the collar can be
this, increase I stitch purl twisted pick up an odd number of stitches turned over loosely to the outside
oU[ of the horizomal thread after a from the back neckline with a cir- later! \Vork the increases about 2-3
knit stitch, knit the next purl stitch, cular needle or flex needles, starting stitches after the shoulder, before
and then increase 1 stitch purl and ending at a shoulder. Turn the and after a purl stitch, then work 5
twisted Out of the next horizomal work, slip the first stitch knitwise, stitches and make another double
thread again. The pattern repeat of and then work in ribbing pattern. At increase. Keep repeating these
the ribbing pattern conrinues with- the end of the row, pick up several increases up to the other shoulder.
oU[ inrerruption. stitches from the slanted edge of the The frequency of increases is the
\Xlhen a shawl collar is worked with front. Always pick up the stitches on same for almost all thicknesses of
the piece itself, shortened rows have the front to the next decrease made yarn.
to be worked instead of increases at on the slanted edge. Here, the de- Once all the stitches have been
the back of the collar. creases were mad~ every sixth row so picked up, continue working until
that at the end of each row, you the selvedge is as long as the bottom
Shawl Collar Knit should pick lip an additional 6 neckline edge is wide, then bind the
stitches. Turn the work, slip the first stitches off. Sew the top part of the
onto a Pullover
stitch, then work in ribbing pattern. shawl collar onto the bottom edge of
On the pullover shown above, the Continue working the same way, the neckline with invisible stitch.
center l4 stitches are bound off picking up 6 stitches at the end of Since the ribbing pattern requires
straight across for the inset piece. each row until you have reached the more rows for the same length, as
88
Shawl Collars
On the left side of the pullover In order for the collar to turn well,
sweater, pull the stitches through the stitches have to be bound off
with a crochet hook and lift them loosely.
onto the knitting needle.
89
Perfect Details
t
For the slanted edge, work 2 For the necessary collar full- The seam in the back is sewn in
1 more stitches in ribbing after
every sixth row, increasing the sec-
2 ness, work shortened rows
every fourth row. Slanted shoulders
3 grafting stitch (see page 116).
ond stitch from the horizontal thread. assure a better fit of the cardigan.
90
Shawl Collars
91
Pockets
N
eat facings are especially patterns that tighten, like
important for pockets. They cable patterns, you need
can be worked with the fewer stitches for the inside
pocket or knitted on later with the pockets. Before you con~
side edges being sewn all. tinue working in the basic
\Xlhen you knit the pocker facing pattern, yOli must adjust
along with the rest of the sweater, the number of stitches,
yOll work with the same si:e needle which means you need to
as for the other parts. For this reason, increase (work increases
you must be slife to bind the stitches purl twisted from the
L
off tightly. ~:~~!:l~2..J:.~~::';!.--::: horizontal thread). For
If you knit the facing on later, you patterns that stretch, such as
can work with a needle one or [wo shaker knitting patterns, the inside
si:es smaller. This makes the facing stitches at the start of the facing, in pocket is worked with more stitches.
tighter, but you should still make sure accorJance with the gauge, so that Before you continue in the basic
to bind off tightly, because a loose the pocket facing Joes not become pattern, you need to decrease
edge always looks unattractive. too wide. stitches. To do this, knit 2 stitches
Ribbing, seed stitch, or even ganer Pocket facings should always be together as needed, uniformly
stitch prevents the (;:'Icing from workeJ symmetric'llly. Always start divided over [he pocket stitches.
rolling up. The edge of a double and end with I or 2 knit stitches Always cast on Z additional
facing is particularly attractive. Here, next to the selvedge stitches. In the selvedge stitches for the seam. These
the outside part is worked in ribbing case of I x I ribbing, this means you stitches are bound off before the
or seed stitch, the inside part in need an odd number of stitches, and inside pocket is inserted into the
stockinette stitch on slightly smaller in the case of 2 X 2 ribbing, you piece.
needles. That prevents this facing need a number divisible by 4 On the following pages, you will see
from riding up. (including selvedge stitches). Pay all the possibilities in derail.
\Xlhcn you are working patterns attention to this when you pick up
that tighten, such as cable patterns, the stitchcs. Onc stitch morc or less
make sure that you decrease a few is hardly noticeable, but an
92
Pockets
Horizontal Pocket
with Facing Knit On
\'Vork about 8 to 10 rows in ribbing
or in seed stitch, over the desired
width, when the piece has reached
the length where the pocket is
supposed to go. In ribbing, make sure
that the facing is symmetrical-for
example, it starts and ends with a
knit stitch. If the pattern requires an
even number of stitches, yOll can
decrease a stitch within the pocket
facing. Then bind the facing stitches
off. For a tighter edge. you can also
1 Bind off tightly the stitches of
the pocket facing. Insert stitches
of the inside pocket here later.
2 Work the inside pocket in stock-
inette stitch, then work the last
H/.j" to 2" in the basic pattern.
pass the stitches over withollt
knitting them (see page 102) or bind
them off by knitting them together.
For the inside pocket, cast on the
required number of stitches plus 2
selvedge stitches, and work either in
the basic pattern or in stockinette
stitch or reverse srockinette stitch.
Then work the last 1JAil (Q Z" in the
basic pattern. Before inserting the
inside pocket into the body of the
piece, bind off the 2 selvedge
stitches. Then continue working over
all the stitches.
3
Pin the inside pocket down on
the wrong side of the work
and sew down first the bottom
4 The finished pocket with a
tight binding-off edge.
93
Perfect Details
Pocket Worked
In Later
Pockets worked in afterwards have a
great advantage: They can be worked
precisely to your measurements-
farther up if your arms are shorr,
farther down if they are long. YOll
can also determine the precise width.
For patterned cardigans, you should
pay attention that you don't inter-
rupt the pattern at an inappropriate
point. For example, undoing a row
with crossed stitches would make
1 Mark the position and the
width of the pocket. Include the
length of the pocket facing in your
2 Now undo this rowan both
sides until you reach the end
of the marker. The yarn ends will
your work unnecessarily difficult, calculation. Then cut a stitch in the be sewn in on the wrong side of
middle of the marked section. the work.
A fast solution:
a rolled edge
Instead of making a pocket fac-
ing in ribbing, you can also
knit on a rolled edge that is
about Wi" long. If the edge is
worked in stockinette stitch, it
will roll to the outside (top
photo). If it is worked in
reverse stockinette stitch, it
will roll to the inside (bottom
photo).
3 With a thin knitting needle,
pick up the top and bottom
stitches. Also pick up on the top
4 Now knit the facing on over the
stitches on the bottom needle.
In the first row, cast on a selvedge
edge the "half" stitches on both stitch on both sides. Make sure that
sides. You will have 1 stitch more the number of stitches is uneven,
on the top needle. and work a knit stitch next to the
selvedge stitches on both sides.
94
Pockets
Pocket Knit On In
Cable Pattern
For this pocket, the stitches for the
facing are put on a stitch holder at
the desired length, and the stitches
of the inside pocker are inserted inw
the work. The pocket facing is
worked last.
For cable patterns that tighten,
stitches have to be decreased-i.e.,
knit together-for the pocket facing.
For narrow cables, 1 decrease is
1 Put the stitches for the pocket
facing on a stitch holder or a
piece of heavy yarn in accordance
2 Work the inside part of the
pocket and insert the stitches
into the work in place of the
generally enough; for wide cables, with the pattern. stitches on the stitch holder. Con-
you generally need to decrease 2 to 3 tinue working over all the stitches.
stitches per cable.
In rhe example on the right, the
narrow cables continue in the facing,
while 2 stitches are purled wgether
twice over the wide cables. This
means that the purl ribs next to the
cables don't have [Q be offset.
For the double facing, cast on a
selvedge stitch on both sides in the
first row. When the facing has
reached the desired length, continue
in stOckinette stitch on needles one
size smaller, binding off the selvedge
stitches in the first row of stockinette
stitch and knitting 2 stitches
together once over each of the
narrow cables.
3 Match the outside facing to the
pattern as closely as possible.
Work the inside facing in stockin-
ette stitch on smaller needles.
95
Perfect Details
Pocket Worked
Diagonally
Diagonal pockets are the right [Ouch
for some cardigans. For example,
long cardigans worked in plain stock-
inette stitch need something extra.
Here, diagonal pockets will make the
hipline look slimmer.
Work the waistband and the front
to the bottom edge of the pocket.
Now put the oU[cr third of the
stitches on a stitch holder and first
'\lark the front, with the slanted edge
for the pocker. To do dlis, decrease I
1 For the inside pocket, pick liP
the stitches from the first row
of the basic pattern, or cast them
2 Work to the bottom edge of
the pocket, then join the
stitches with those of the third to
stitch every second row: On the left on. the side.
front, work a single decrease (slip I
stitch, then knit 1 stitch, and pass
the slipped stitch over). On the right
front, knit 2 stitches together. You
can work these decreases over the
selvedge stitch and the first stitch, or,
as shown, over the second and third
stitches. \Vhcn you decrease over the
second and third stitches, you don't
need a facing; the selvedge stitch will
rum in by itself.
For the inside pocket, cast on the
stitches or pick them up from the
horizontal threads of the purl stitches
of the first row above the ribbing, on
the wrong side of the work. The
3 At the desired pocket length,
knit the additional stitches of
the inside pocket together with
4 The pocket edge looks good
even without a facing.
96
Pockets
Tip
If the pocket is worked not
directly above the ribbing, but
higher up, the inside pocket
can be made larger towards
the bottom, as in the diagonal
pocket. To do this, cast the
stitches for the inside pocket
on separately, work about 2"
to 3'/.1" in the pattern, and then
join these stitches with the
stitches of the side part.
97
Perfect Details
Sewn-on Pockets
Sewn~on pockets offer a variety of
decorative possibilities. On the right
is an example with stripes. The
knitted piece was workeJ with
horizomal stripes, and the pocket
with vertical stripes. Here you can
also work with diagonal stripes, with
openwork or textured patterns, or
with embroidery. In addition, yOli
can sew the pockets on wherever you
want, such as a large one at the hip,
a small one on the chest, ctc.
Since the edges of stockinette stitch
1 Pi n the pocket, worked cross-
wise, onto the knitted piece. 2 Always catch one stitch of the
pocket...
98
Pockets
Ribbing Pocket
If yOll have a very long waistband
worked in ribbing, you can make in,
conspicuolls pockets. Work the rib,
bing to the desired length and then
bind off the stitches (or the pocket
very rightly. Instead of knitting the
stitches as yOll bind them off, you
can simply pass them over (see hori,
zantal buttonholes, page 102). This
2 ..
will make the binding off edge even
tighter.
Ribbing pockets arc even more in-
conspicllous if you bind rhe stitches
1 Pick up the stitches for the in-
side pocket on the wrong side
from the casting-on row ...
and work in ribbing pattern.
Turn the ribbing up and con-
tinue working over all the stitches.
off in kirchener rib (starting on page
..... ~."-' .
45). ,.. ,. ,
Pick lip the stitches for the inside
. ..
.--.. - .,-"""-"",,,,'-,
"
' ~',.'
..
pocket from the casting-on edge. on , ",, .::. , '"
"f ". . , , "" t:" -;.", ..
~ t'
the wrong side of the work. On the " :~ ,> :::: , ":'\1 ,
, " ,~ .. ~ I.~ ":". ,- , . "" ,
,"> , it ,,- , ;,r, ~,j'
,~
edges of the inside pocket are sewn The finished pocket with the edge ... and with the edge bound off in
on later. bound off "normally" ... kitchener rib.
99
Buttonholes
Whether they are round, purl stitch (i.e., after a knit stitch) the next rib) together. In the next
and then knit the purl stitch rogeth- rowan the wrong side of the work,
horizontal, or vertical, er with the next knit stitch. In the knit the first yarn over and knit the
whether they are knit in, next row, work the yarn over in second yarn over twisted.
keeping with the pattern, knitting it If this buttonhole is roo large, yOlt
crocheted on, or sewn on- not twisted. can also work just I single decrease,
here's a suitable buttonhole On facings in 2 X 2 ribbing, a and in the next rowan the wrong
round butronhole is always worked side of the work knit I stitch and
for anything you want to over the purl stitches. In a row on knit I stitch twisted over it.
knit. the right side of the work, work a
single decrease over the second knit
stitch and the first purl stitch (slip
the knit stitch knitwisc, knit the purl
stitch, and pass the slipped stitch
over). Now make 2 yarn overs and
knit the next 2 stitches (the second
purl stitch and the first knit stitch of
B
cfOTe you make buttonholes,
you should know how large the
buttons are as well as how
many buttonholes you need to make.
If possible, knit a facing on and
determine the number and size of the
buttons on the facing. When you
knit the facing with the piece, you
need [0 know the location of the
buttonholes right from the start.
To determine the si:e of the
buttonholes, put the button on the
facing, stretch the kniHing slightly, In a rowan the right side of the
and coum out the stitches. It is work, work a yarn over after a knit
better to make buttonholes a little stitch, and knit the next 2 stitches
smaller rather than too large, since together.
knitting stretches over time anyway,
and the buttons would come open
easily.
Round Buttonholes
On facings in I X I ribbing, work a
small buttonhole like an openwork
pattern with a yarn over. It can hard,
Iy be seen in the finished facing.
since it lies between 2 knit stitches.
This buttonhole is usually the right
size for shoulder facings on children's
sweaters or for button plackets on On facings worked in 2 x 2 ribbing, The buttonhole with 1 yarn over
polo sweaters. work a single decrease and 1 or 2 (top) is slightly smaller than the
On facings knit up and down, there yarn overs, then knit 2 stitches buttonhole with 2 yarn overs
should be a purl stitch in the middle together. (bottom). Both lie neatly in the purl
so that you can work the buttonhole rib of the facing.
over it. Work a yarn over before this
100
Buttonholes
Vertical Buttonholes
On a 1 X I ribbing, the buttonhole
is worked over a purl stitch. In order
to maintain the knit stitches on bmh
sides of it, this stitch has to be
doubled in the last rowan the wrong
side of the work before the blltton~
hole. To do this, knit I stitch and
knit 1 stitch twisted out of the stitch
above which the buttonhole is going
tolie.
In the following rows, work 1/2 of
the facing with the first purl stitch as
1 For a vertical buttonhole in 1 x
1 ribbing, double 1 knit stitch
in a row on the wrong side of the
2 Work the second half of the fac-
ing to the desired length with the
second stitch forming the selvedge
a selvedge stitch, and pur the stitches work, and work the first purl stitch stitch. Continue working on all the
on a stitch holder when the button· of the row on the right side of the stitches, knitting or purling them to-
hole has reached the desired length. work as the selvedge stitch. gether in the first row, as applicable.
Work the selvedge stitches in every
row and pull them especially tight.
Now work the second half of the
facing, Llsing the second stitch as a
, '"~
.'~"". . . .L
.~
-
selvedge stitch. ~
Horizontal
Buttonholes
YOll can work horizontal buttonholes
several different ways. The lIsual way
is to bind the stitches off in a rowan
the right side of the work and cast
them back on in the next rowan the
wrong side of the work. The disad,
vantage of this is that the buttonhole
usually gets vcry wide, because of the
2 ..
stitches being passed over.
On a facing in I X 1 ribbing, work
this buttonhole over an odd number
of stitches, starring and ending with
1 For a "normal" buttonhole in 1
X 1 ribbing, bind off tightly 3
(or 5) stitches in a rowan the right
and cast them on again very
tightly in the next row on the
wrong side of the work.
a knit stitch. side of the work, ...
On a facing in 2 X 2 ribbing, the
buttonhole should be worked over an
even number of stitches. If it is 2
stitches wide, it is worked over 2 knit
stitches; if it is 4 stitches wide, it is
worked over I purl stitch, 2 knit
stitches, and I purl stitch.
This means that the last binding~off
stitch is always passed over a purl
stitch, and the buttonhole fits
perfectly into the ribbing pattern.
However, if the buttonhole is
supposed to be 2 stitches wide, you The finished buttonhole worked The finished buttonhole worked
should try to work a round over 3 stitches. over 2 stitches (top) and over 4
buttonhole over 2 purl stitches, since stitches (bottom) in 2 X 2 ribbing.
this type of buttonhole is even less
conspicuous.
102
Buttonholes
Working with
Contrast Yarn
Another way for getting really tight
buttonholes is working an additional
row in a contrast yarn. The button~
hole stitches are crocheted together
later.
Without Contrast
1 Work with a different-colored
yarn over the desired number of
stitches. There are 5 here. Then slip
2 Pull the contrast yarn out and
pick up the bottom 5 and top 6
stitches with cable needles (catch
Yarn the stitches back onto the left needle the half stitches of the stitches
and work them once again with the next to the ends on both sides).
... is another way you can
original yarn. This means that you
work this buttonhole. To do
are knitting the buttonholes twice!
this, cut a stitch in the middle
of the buttonhole, carefully
pull the yarn out on both
sides, and put the stitches on
thin cable needles. Crochet
the buttonhole and sew in the
yarn ends. The buttonhole
will spread apart a little more
than one worked with
contrast yarn.
103
Perfect Details
Crocheted Button
Loops
Crocheted button loops are quick
and easy. They can be lIsed on polo
sweater plackets and shoulder facings.
On polo sweaters, work the slit in
the center of the middle. In the row
in which the sides arc divided, in-
crease I selvedge stitch for the but-
ton loop edge, and 2 [Q 3 stitches for
the underneath part. Since the loops
arc crocheted between rhe selvedge
stitch and the first stitch, you should
work a seam selvedge in stockinette
1 Insert the crochet hook
between the selvedge stitch
and the first stitch, and crochet a
2 To reinforce the button loops,
you can crochet around them
with half a piece of yarn and single
stitch (page 26). row of slip stitches from right to crochets; just work slip stitches
In order ro be able [Q distribute the left. Then start from right to left over the slip stitches.
loops evenly, first count the rows of again, and work alternately 4 slip
the slit edge. Fot example: If you stitches and 5 chain stitches.
want to distribute 3 loops over 30
stitches and assume 5 rows per loop,
this leaves Z rows for the top edge, 5
rows between loops, and 3 rows for
the bottom edge. Viewed from the
bottom edge, this is 3 rows without a
loop; then, 2 times: 5 rows with a
loop,S without, then another 5 with,
and 2 without.
ow work I row of slip stitches
between the selvedge stitch and the
first stitch, using a crochet hook ap-
proximately the same size as the
knitting needles used (or a little
smaller; see drawing on page 105).
Above that, work another row, from
right to left again, with slip stitches
and chain stitches. Leave a long
enough yam end at the beginning of
the first row. This way you can use it
to work the second row and don't
have to sew the end in.
The slip stitches of the seconJ row
are now crocheted only in the top
part of the first row of slip stitches.
The number of slip stitches and
chain stitches is determined by the
arrangement and the size of the
buttons. The finished facing worked in
3 the same color. If necessary,
reinforce the edge of the under-
neath part with a row of single
crochets.
104
Buttonholes
105
Zippers
106
Zippers
The same zipper with a binding-off The same zipper with the edge
edge worked with knit stitches. bound off with knit stitches, as
Here the seam is sewn through the seen from the wrong side.
middle of the binding-off stitches.
Sewn-in Zipper in
Cable or Ribbing
Pattern
In the example shown, 2 stitches in
reverse stockinette arc worked
between each of the cables. The
zipper is sewn into this rib of reverse
stockinette. YOli can work :ipper
closures in <lny vertical ribbing
pattern this way.
At the point where the 2 halves of
the piece divide, cast on 2 additional
stitches on both sides, between the
purl stitches, for the undemearh
parts. The :ipper is then sewn on
lIsing invisible stitch, between rhe
last stitch of the cable and the purl
stitch. To do this, alternately catch a
crosswise thread and sew a shan
stitch through the fabric of the
zipper. On the wrong side of the
work, sew the zipper mpes to the
underneath part of the knitting.
107
Perfect Details
Straightening Out
Zipper Edges with
Slip Stitches
This technique is good for the front
closures of polo sweaters and turtle~
neck sweaters as well as for zippered
back closures, such as in children's
sweaters.
For the s!it, just bind off the 2 cen-
ter stitches. Then continue the 2
sides separately, working evenly over
the same number of stitches.
First crochet a row of slip
Before yOll sew in the zipper, first
straighten out the edges with slip
stitches (see drawing on page 73). To
1 stitches onto the selvedge
stitch.
2 Above that, crochet a second
row of slip stitches through
the part of the first slip stitches
do this. pur the yarn under the work. that faces the slit.
Insert the hook between the 2
botlnd~of( stitches at the bottom of
the slit, and bring d1C yarn through
to the top. Leave enough yarn to
work the row of slip stitches on the
other side.
ow crochet the slip stitches on I
side first. Insert the crochet hook in~
to the middle of the first binding-off
stitch, from wp to borrom. Bring the
yarn through to the top and pull it
through the loop on the hook. Keep
working the following slip stitches
through the selvedge stitches, I or 2
rows higher. \'\Iork slip stitches over
the second edge the same way.
Then work a second row of slip
stitches over the first. To do this,
start again at the bottom of the slit,
as described above, and now work Sew in the zipper with sewing
the slip stitches through the half of thread, going through the outer
the previous slip stitches that faces row of slip stitches.
the slit.
For the inside facing, cast on 10 Pin the inside facing down on the
stitches and work in smckinerre wrong side of the work and sew it
stitch for about 314". Then bind off down with slip stitches.
the 2 center stitches and continue
the 2 halves separately. Pin the
facing on and sew it down.
108
Zippers
Shortening a Zipper
If you can't find a zipper of the
correct length, buy one that is
a little longer and shorten it to
the desired length. Sew a new
stop at the appropriate loca-
tion, using a double buttonhole
thread. Then cut off the rest of
the zipper below it.
109
Finishing
Anice-fitting sweater comes
from how you sew the
individual pieces together.
Here are the best tricks for
perfect seams.
Invisible Seams to Join Selvedges
The best way to sew side Before you sew the pieces mged1cr, stan at the bottom edge and work
block them and let them dry under from righ t to left,
and sleeve seams is with damp cloths (see page 12 I),
invisible stitches, To sew the seams, yOll need a Stockinette Stitch
tapestry or wool needle, If possible, Pieces
you should sew the pieces together
with the same yarn you used for First sew the selvedge stitches of the
knitting. That works well for all casting~on rows together. To do this,
smooth or only slightly fuzzy yarns. insen the needle next to the
\Vhen using long mohair yarn or selvedge stitches, going from bottom
specialty yarns with nubs or fringes, to top of one piece to the other.
Y
Qll can usc this stitch to sew it is better to use a smooth yarn that Then catch the first horizontal
pieces worked in stockinette matches in color. But do nor use thread between the selvedge stitch
stitch, reverse smckincttc, or sewing thread, because it does not and the knitted piece of the top
even shaker knitting-almost stretch enough. piece. On the bottom piece, now
invisibly together. Of course, you Put the knitted pieces onto a catch the first and the second
must first have perfect edges (see sufficiently large work area with the hori:ontal threads, then the second
also selvedge stitches, pages 26-27), right side of the work on top. Always and third hori:onral threads on the
1 On pieces worked in
stockinette stitch, begin
sewing with 1 horizontal thread, ...
2 ".then catch 2 horizontal
threads of the top and bottom
pieces each time.
3 Because of the offset, even
stripes and textured patterns
match up perfectly,
112
Invisible Seams to Join Selvedges
first piece, erc. You always catch 2 forms a back~and,fof[h line in the 2 half stitches from each side
horizontal threads with the needle, knitting. produce a whole stitch.
offset relative to one anmher. Don'[
pull the yarn too tight so that the Shaker Knitting Pieces Garter Stitch
seams remain stretchable. Selvedges
Because of the offset of the stitches, For a seam using invisible stitch, yOll
even patterns such as stripes or have to work a purl stitch on the If the pattern allows, such as in the
textured patterns match up perfecrly. right side of the work, next to the case of faux shaker knitting, garter
selvedge stitch (odd number of stitch selvedges are the best edges for
Reverse Stockinette stitches). It is also important that an especially attractive scam. Since
Pieces your selvedge is worked very tightly. the little knots always form at the
This seam is slightly thicker, but beginning of a row, they fit into each
A seam worked in invisible stitch is almost invisible. other like the teeth of a zipper when
almost impossible [Q see in reverse After you have sewn the casting~on they are sewn together. The finished
stockinette too. Here. however, from rows together, always catch the stitch then looks like an additional
the beginning you only catch I center of the purl stitches next to the purl stitch.
horizontal thread per side. The yarn selvedge stitches (it is made up of 2
has to be pulled a little tighter. It threads), going from side to side. The
113
Invisible Seams with Grafting Stitch
T
o sew grafting stitches, you needle into bottom piece from top...
need a tapestry or blum wool
needle. The yarn for sewing
has to be about three times as long as
the width of the pieces when lying
flat. If yOli lise the end of the yarn
you knit with, this is one less yarn
end to sew in. It is beneT to leave the
yam a little longer rather than [00
short, because you can't add morc
yarn if you fun out.
You can sew the stitches right as
they come off the needle. YOll need a
Iirrle practice to do this, because
Now insert the tapestry needle Don't pull the yarn too tight. With
sometimes they slip off the needle
too quickly, especially if you knit
loosely.
2 into the previous stitch, alter-
nately in the top and the bottom
every working step. you catch 2
half stitches.
Or yOll can work anocher 2 rows in pieces, and out through the next
stockinette stitch in a diffcrem~ stitch on the needle.
colored yarn on both pieces. These
additional rows will be undone little
by little as yOll sew the pieces
together. Use wool or a wool blend
for these additional rows, because
corton comes undone too easily.
When you sew parts together lIsing
grafting stitch, you create a new row.
Therefore, you should work the
knitted piece I row shorter. For
example, if you are working stripes of
4 rows each, work 2 rows on one
side; the finished row and the
stitches on the knitting needle will
be visible. On the other side, knit
just 1 row; here the stitches on the
needle will form the row of grafting
3 The stitches on the needle and
the seam itself form a row in
the knitting. For a pattern repeat...
... of 4 rows, you need 1 row on
one needle and 2 on the other.
stitches.
114
Invisible Seams with Grafting Stitch
Pm the pieces next to one another This means that you insert the stitch to join the pieces, because the
in the way they arc going to be needle into the selvedge stitch from stitches move over by half a stitch
joined, with the right side of the top to bottom. Then insert the nee, each time. In this casc, it looks better
work on top. The working yarn is die in the other selvedge stitch from if you knit the stitches rogether or
attached to the bottom piece. The bOttom to top, and aU[ of the next sew them together after they arc
way yOll work in srockincnc stitch is stitch from rop ro bottom, etc. If the bound off.
explained in detail on these pages. piece was worked entirely in reverse
For pieces worked in reverse stockinette, ),ou can also rum the
stockinette, the stitches are similarly work and sew it together lIsing
sewn together. You only have to in- grafting stitch for stockinette stitch.
sert the needle from bottom to rop \Vhen you have a patterned design,
instead of frOI11 top to bottom, and such as textured or ribbing patterns,
bring it out the opposite way. it is nOt as practical to use grafting
Sewing Bind-off
Stitches Together
On some patterns, such as open-
work patterns. it is difficult to
sew open stitches together using
grafting stitches. In this case, it is
easier (0 bind off the s(itches
and then scw them (ogether \vith
grafting stitches. A slightly raised
area will fOfm on the inside with
this seam. but it can hardly be that is about three times as long as Gllch 2 stitches from the bottom
seen on d1e ollt."iide. the width of the piece. and top pieces. Don·t pull the
Similar to sewing open stitches Put both pieces down, right working yarn too tightly,
together, to sew the bind-off side of the work on top. next to orherwise the seam will be hard
stitches together with grarting one another. Start with lhe and rigid, and the linc on rhe
stitches, yOll need a lapestly or selvedge stitches, just as yOll do inside will become rhicker.
\vool needle. and a working yarn for open stitches. Then ag~lin,
115
Finishing
Sewing Together piece over the shoulders. But if yOll shoulder. Leave half the working
lise thick, country-type yarn, the yarn hanging on the right side of the
Pieces Worked sweater gets very heavy; and if yOll work, and first sew I side to the
Crosswise lise soft yarn, it can easily stretch out corner of the sleeve. Then begin at
of shape. the same point in the middle again,
For some pancrns, you have to knit Here, you can work all the pans and sew the other side.
sweaters crosswise, such as if you separately and then sew the sleeves At the end, sew the side edges of
want to work lengthwise stripes and onto the casting-on or binding-off thc front and the back togcthcr
don't want to work with a lot of dif~ edge of the front and back in open using grafting stitch, and sew the
ferent skeins of yarn. stitches. In order to finish at the slceve scam llsing invisible stitch
Ie's true that you can start the same length 011 both sides, start in (pages Il2-llJ).
sweater at the sleeve and work it in 1 the middle of the sleeve-i.e., at the
116
Sewing In Sleeves
117
Finishing
At the gathered parts, always put Both seams look perfect when
several stitches onto the sewing seen from the outside.
needle at the same time, and join
them with 1 horizontal thread from
the front or back.
118
Sewing In Sleeves
TIP
Here is a simple trick for
rounding the top of the sleeve
evenly without having any
"steps": After the first big de-
A contrast yarn makes it easier to creases, in all the following
count rows and increases. In every rows knit the first 2 stitches
together twisted on the right
row where yOll work an increase, pur
side of the work and purl them
the yam to the back ahead of the
together on the wrong side of
center stitch (or the stitch next to the work. Bind off the follow-
it), and after yOll work the center ing stitches normally. If only 1
stitch, put it to the front again. This stitch is supposed to be bound
makes it easy to check the number of off, just knit the stitches to*
increases and the number of rows gether appropriately.
between increases.
Leave the yarn in the knitted piece
until yOlI have finished the sleeve.
Since it also marks the center of the
sleeve, the sleeve can be pinned [Q
the shoulder SC;:lll1 at this point.
119
Starting and Finishing Yarn Ends
120
Blocking Your Work
B
cfore you block your work, yOll
should sew in any yarn ends
that are within the piece. Yarn
ends at the siJes can be sewn in the
seams after yOlI sew the pieces
together.
All of the pieces are pinned to a This blacking
smooth surface, according (Q the and steaming pad
measurements of the pattern. YOll is available in
can lise a large ironing rabie, a piece most needlework
of carpet, a Styrofoam sheet covered stores.
with a kitchen towel, or a blocking
and steaming pad with foam (avail;
able in needlework stores). You can
usc normal pins to pin the pieces in
place, but somewhat longer blocking
pins are more practical.
Put the pins through the selvedge
stitches as flat as possible and not too
far apart. Check your measurements
frequently as you pin, so thm the
front, back, and sleeves are the same
size later. Don't stretch the ribbing.
Now pur damp cloths on top of the
piece, press down lightly with your
hands, and allow everything to dry
for several hours or overnight. Re~
move the cloths. Before removing
the needles, allow the parts to rest
for about an hour more. there is a picture of a crosscd~out words, don't move it back and forth
Do not put wcights, such as books iron, you can't iron or steam iron this as in normal ironing. This would
or ocher heavy items, on the pieces. yarn. You can carefully apply stcam cause the stitches to pull Ollt of
This would flatten the patterns, and only to pure wool and cotton. Any shape. It is better to use a steam iron
even pieces worked in stockinette other yarn mixtures-which means that you don't put down on the
stitch would lose their texture. most yarns---don't take steam very piece, but rather move above the
well; the pieces become limp. piece, not touching it.
Steam Ironing For applying steam, place a damp
cloth on the knitted piece. Put the
Before you steam iron your knitted iron down just briefly and lift it to
pieces, carefully check the label. If move it to the next spor. In other
121
Special Techniques
124
Shaker Knitting
125
Special Techniques
126
Shaker Knitting
127
Special Techniques
128
Shaker Knitting
129
Special Techniques
For a double decrease to the right, Then work the last 3 stitches in the
work to within 6 stitches from the shaker knitting pattern.
end of the row. Knit the next 3
stitches together. Including the
yarn overs, this comes to 5 loops.
130
Shaker Knitting
1
•
I
-,
I
1-
'f
,,
f
(
•\
•
Increases thread (the yarn over of the previous ribbing not to look mismatched. you
row). should always work double increases
Just like decreases, increases in At the left edge, work to within 3 here as well.
shaker knitting should be worked as stitches from the end of the row, After a knit stitch, increase a purl
double increases. Here again, it looks then knit I stitch twisted and purl stitch twisted, knit the next stitch,
nicer if they aren't worked right next stitch twisted from the horizontal which was previollsly a purl stitch,
{Q the selvedge stitches. For this thread. then increase another purl stitch
slanted edge of a sleeve, the jn~ After the seam has been sewn with twisted from the next horizontal
creases are worked after 3 stitches. invisible stitch, 2 ribs of shaker thread. This allows the ribs to
Work 3 stitches at the right edge, knitting will run lip the sleeve next continue in the same pattern.
then purl I stitch twisted and knit I to one another.
stitch twisted from the horizontal In order for the pattern after the
Working in the Round If you don't turn the work, the stitches together with the yarn over.
rough side will be on the outside In the other rounds, slip the knit
I don't recommend working an en~ once the turtleneck collar has been stitches with a yarn over amI purl
tire sweater in shaker knitting in turned over. the purl stitches together with the
the round, if only because it will get You can also work double shaker yarn over.
too large and heavy. But if you knitting in rounds. To do that, every
want to knit a really luxurious rur~ other round, slip the purl stitches
tleneck and don't want to have a with a yarn over and knit the knit
seam, single shaker ribbing is a
good solution.
You should work the first JAil to I'At!
in simple ribbing (alternating knit I,
purl I) to keep the neckline from
getting too wide.
If you wam to wear the single shak~
er knitting pattern with the smooth
side on the outside, turn the work-
that is, work in rounds on the wrong
side of the work-as follows:
131
Cable Patterns
This
simple
tech-
nique of If yOll want to make a sweater with
crosslIlg different kinds of cable, yOll have to
make a sample gauge for each of Simple cables (top): crossed
stitches is the basis for these cables lIsing the original yarn. just to the right, alternately to the
textured patterns with a lot If you are a little shott of the desired right and the left, or just to the left.
sweater width, yOlI can add small or Plait cables (bottom) are a
of depth. The cables formed large seed stitch (see page 30) or combination of stitches crossed to
this way can be workecl in narrow cables. the right and left.
Some of the stitches that form the
individually or distributed cable are placed on a cable needle
over d1e sweater or cardigan in front of or behind the work. You
then work the indicated number of
in different combinations, stitches before continuing with the
such as in Aran Isle knitting. stitches from the cable needle.
The examples on page 133 sholl'
you how to work the cable stitches.
Each cable is made up of 6 stitches.
These stitches are knit on the right
side of the work, purled on the
wrong side of the work-in other
able patterns look best if they worJs, worked in stockinette stitch.
132
Cable Patterns
133
Special Techniques
134
Cable Patterns
135
Openwork Patterns
136
Openwork Patterns
Left double decrease with 2 yam ... knit the next 2 stitches together
overs: Put the yarn over the and pass the slipped stitch over,
needle, then slip 1 stitch then put the yarn over the needle
knitwise, ... again.
Double decrease with center stitch . .. knit the next stitch, and pass the
on top and 2 yam overs: Put the slipped stitches over together.
yarn over the needle, then slip 2 Then put the yarn over the needle
stitches knitwise, ... again.
Right double decrease with 2 yam ... then put the yarn over the needle
overs: Put the yarn over the again.
needle, knit 3 stitches together, ...
137
Twisted Stitch Patterns
~ ~
The stitch in the previous - F •
For a twisted knit stitch, insert the For a twisted purl stitch, insert the
needle into the back of the stitch needle into the back of the stitch
on the left needle, from right to on the left needle from behind the
left, and knit it. work, from left to right, and purl it.
138
Twisted Stitch Patterns
Check Pattern
In a check pattern, all the stitches
that appear as knit stitches on the
Check "",cern right side of the work are twisted in
every row-i.e., knit twisted on the
right side of the work, purled twisted
on the wrong side of the work. All of
the stitches that appear as purl
stitches on the right side of the work
are purled on the right side of the
work, knit on the wrong side of the
work.
Ribbing and
Hourglass Cable
In the ribbing and hourg'a" cable, all
the stitches that appear as knit
stitches on the right side of the work
I~ibbing and
arc twisted in every row. For the
hOllrglass cable
hourglass shape, the stitches arc
crossed (see cable patterns, page
138).
Oval
designs
139
Slip Stitch Patterns
Slipped Stitches in Crossed slip stitches: The interior of Perpendicular Slip Stitches: This
Multicolor Patterns the diamonds is alternately worked pattern (chart above) has to be
in stockinette stitch and reverse worked on a circular needle, since
Although you only work with I yarn stockinette stitch. The pattern chart 2 RS rows and 2 WS rows must be
at a time, these patterns often look for this pattern is on page 230. knit consecutively each time.
140
Slip Stitch Patterns
v v v v vv 39
vv vv 37
v v v v v v 35
vv v v vv 33
v v vv 31
v v v v v v 29
v v v v v v 27
v v v v 25
v v v v v v 23
v v v v v v 21
v v v v v v 19
v v v v 17
v v v v v v 15
v v v v v v 13
v v v v 11
v v v v v v 9
v v v v v v 7
Individual slip-stitches (left) v v v v 5
loosen up a pattern with wide v v v v v v 3
v v v v v v 1
turquoise stripes. Two rows of white
16-s1 repeat
alternate with 4 rows of turquoise.
The slip stitches are worked every
sixth stitch, shifted from 1 row of The pattern chart for the diamond
white [0 the next, and over 2 rows. pattern shows only the RS rows.
Three slip stirches (below), which Purl the stitches on the wrong side
are always worked over 2 rows in and slip the slipped stitches again.
different colors and shifted over, Repeat these 40 rows.
interrupt the horizontal stripes. This
pattern, too, is worked with only I
Slip the individual slip-stitches of color yarn at a rime. For the vertical
this pattern over 2 rows each. breaks, 3 stitches are always slipped
when the stripes in the second color
are being worked.
19
v v v v v v 17
15
v v v v v v 13
11
9
v v v 7
5
v v v 3
1
- 12-st repeat -
Three slip-stitches are slipped The yarn carried behind the work The pattern chart for 3 slip stitches
twice over the stitches in the other can be seen behind the 3 slip shows only the RS rows. Purl the
color. After 10 rows, the pattern is stitches. stitches on the wrong side and slip
shifted over by 6 stitches. the slipped stitches again. Repeat
these 20 rows.
141
Jacquard Patterns
J
acquard patterns are almost
always worked in stockinette
stitch: On the right side of the
work, knit the stitcheSi both yarn
colors are at the back of the work.
On the wrong side of the work, purl
the stitches; both yarn colors are at
the front of the lI'ork. If yOll lI'ork
jacquard patterns in the round, knit
VOl/'ll find a swearer
all the stitches and keep the yarn at
witll ellis jacquard border
the back of the work. The selvedge
on /'age 198.
stitches are always worked with both
yarn colors.
If yOll make larger checks, interlock alternately knit with the front yarn ...
the different colors (see intarsia).
142
Jacquard Patterns
143
Special Techniques
144
Jacquard Patterns
Weaving In Yarn
Carried Across the
Back of the Work
Long pieces of yarn carried at the If you use the weaving technique A view of continuous weaving from
back of the work are woven in at 1 for every stitch, the piece gets very the back. Here, alternately work 1
or more points. stiff. If the yarn is heavy. the stitch "normally," using the jac-
woven yarn can show through on quard technique (page 1421. and 1
the right side of the work. stitch using the weaving technique.
145
Intarsia Patterns
F
or intarsia work, the yarn must
be crossed within the knitted
piece at every color change (see
photos and drawings). Crossing the
yarn prevents holes from forming in
the knitted piece.
In order not to get your yarn all
tangled if yOll are working with a lot
of different colors, put the skeins of
yarn next to one another in the Dreier
in which they are going to be
worked. The yarns will cross in the
first row. Now turn the piece [Q the On the back of the work, a 2-color If areas of color are shifted over by
front, turning the tip of the needle "chain" forms where the yarns only 1 stitch, cross the yarns the
w\Vards your lxx:ly and to the right. cross. same way as for straight areas of
When you work the rowan the color. Small photo: A view from the
wrong side of the work, the yarns will back. The yarn ends are sewn in on
uncross. At the end of this row, turn the area of color that they match.
the work to the back-in other
words, turn the tip of the needle
away from your body and to the
right. Now the yarns will cross again.
For all the subsequent rows, always
[Urn the work alternately towards
your body and away from your body.
The skeins only have to be resorted if
new yarn, such as a new color, is
added or a color is eliminated. It is
best that when you stop knitting, you
always interrupt your work after a
row on the wrong side of the work,
so that when you start working again If areas of color are shifted over by ... so that the yarn will come from
you can put the skeins next to one several stitches, prepare to cross the "correct" side and the first new
another in the proper oreler. the yarns ahead of time: Cross the stitch will not be pulled in the
"new" yarn 1 stitch before or after wrong direction.
the stitch to be knit in this color...
146
Intarsia Patterns
The stitches before (top) and atter If the areas of color already start at Here, the area of color started in a
(bottom) the correction. the ribbing, cast the stitches on in right side row and ended in a wrong
the same color sequence as that in side row. First pull all the yarn ends
which they are worked. through the yarn of the other color
to the lett, and then sew them in.
147
Shortened Rows for Slanted Patterns
Hardly anyone who knits Shortened Rows at the Right Edge of a Facing
likes to work shonened
rows. But it's not really
difficult once you get the
hang of it.
W
orking shortened rows
means working fewer rows
over some stitches. These
rows are needed if you want to make
l in a row on the right side of
the work, knit to the end of the
facing. Turn the work and make a
2 Then knit back along the row.
In the next rowan the right
side of the work, ...
a shawl collar or a dart, or if yOll are tight yarn over ahead of the first
combining patterns thm require a stitch.
different number of rows for the
same length, such as garter stitch
and stockinette stitch.
Shortened Rows
with Yarn Over
There arc 2 ways of preventing a
hole frolll forming when yOLl work
shortened rows. The first is shown on
these pages using the example of a
gaT[er~stitch facing that is knit on.
Here, yOll turn with a yarn over, and
in the next row knit the yarn over 3 . . knit the facing stitches up
to the yarn over. Then knit the 4 After the next row, the
shortened row can hardly be
together with the first of the stitches yarn over together with the first seen. Here, the shortened rows are
that was not worked before. stitch of the pattern. worked every 6 rows.
If yOll knit a facing on in ribbing
pattern, yOll should add shortened
rows from time to time, because
when you knit I, purl I alternately,
the knit and purl stitches pull imo
each other slightly, which makes the
stitches larger, and the facing will
stretch out morc easily. Also, facings
are normally worked with smaller~
si:e needles, and that is not possible
when they are worked together with
the main piece. In this case, however,
2 ..
in contrast to what is shown here,
and when you knit back
you don't work more rows over the
stitches of the facing, bur rather over
the other stitches (see knit~in
1 For darts on the left side, the
shortened rows are worked
within the piece. Turn with a yarn
along the row, knit the stitch
after the yarn over together with
facings, pages 66-67). over, as described, ... the yarn over.
148
Shortened Rows for Slanted Patterns
over ahead of the first stitch, and Slip the yarn over onto the right
work back along the row of facing. needle knitwise.
149
Special Techniques
150
Shortened Rows for Slanted Patterns
stitch from right to left and slip it on- front, ahead of the slipped stitch,
to the right needl~. Put the yarn over and work back along the row.
the right needle from front to back, ...
151
Special Techniques
The right side starts with short shortened rows, the left side with long
shortened rows.
The right side and the left side start with long shortened rows.
152
Embossing
In addition to bobbles,
sections of embossing are a
nice way of creating
interesting effects.
E
mbossing can be worked over a
few stitches or over an entire
row. YOll can create a very
attractive design of differenr lengths
distributed at irregular intervals over
an entire sweater. And yOli can use
all kinds of colorful bits of yarn.
1 Leave the yarn of the main
color hanging on the back, and
use the embossing yarn ...
2 .. to work the desired width
and length-in this case, 6
rows of stockinette stitch.
If the sections of embossed knining
are close wgcrher, the yarn for the
embossed knitting can be carried
along at the back of the work, just as
in intarsia work. If the sections of
embossed knitting are farther apart.
yOll should work with individual
pieces of yarn or small skeins.
If sewing in the
yarn ends of the 3 Use a thin cable needle to pick
up the stitches of the last row
below the embossing. Make sure
4 Turn the work and put the
needles one behind the other.
Then knit 1 stitch from the front
embossing yarn you have the same number of needle and from the cable needle
is too much stitches. together each time. Insert the nee-
trouble ... dle into the front stitch knitwise and
into the back stitch knitwise twisted .
... try a tailor's knot. Make
an overhand knot with the 2
yarn ends held
together. Then
push the knot
towards the
kn itted piece with
a needle, pulling
the ends tight.
You should check
the knots from
time to time to
make sure that they
haven't come
undone.
Finally, work the row to the
5 end.
153
Special Techniques
Narrow or Wide
Embossing can be worked over only a
few stitches or over the entire width
of the piece.
Embossing in
Stockinette Stitch
This embossing was worked in stock- Narrow or
inette stitch over 4, 6, and 8 rows. wide
1\vo examples of each are shown.
Embossing with different stripes is
even livelier.
Embossing in Reverse
Stockinette Stitch
Embossing worked in reverse s(ockin~
ette stitch looks like little rolls of
knitting. The first row of the emboss·
ing, worked in reverse srockincnc
stitch on the right side of the work,
always has to be knitted rather than
purled. Otherwise, the horizontal
threads of the last row of the back-
ground color will show. Embossing in
slOckinerre
sritclt
Embossing with Picots
Whether you work it in I or 2 colors,
embossing with picots is very striking.
For the examples of llarrow emboss-
ing over 6 rows, the third row is an
openwork row. For the examples of
wide embossing over 10 rows, it is the
fifth row. For this row of openwork,
you need an odd number of stitches.
After the selvedge stitch, first knit I
stitch, then alternately make a yarn
over and knit 2 stitches together. In
the next row, on the wrong side of
the work, purl all stitches and yarn
overs. For the 2~color embossing,
work 5 rows in the first color (i.e.,
Embossing in
including the openwork row) and 5 reverse
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:~~:~!~
rows in the second color. On the
right side of the work, the picot edge
will still show in the first color. ~ stitch
swckinerce
154
Embossing
Shifted Embossing
Shifted embossing patterns are parti~
cularly attractive. However, yOll
Embossing wilh should only work patterns like this
!Jicol.5
over the entire width of the sweater.
Alternately work 6 rows in the main
color and 4 rows in the piping color.
In the first row of the main color,
alternately work 6 stitches as em;
bossing and 6 stitches not as el11boss~
ing. When yOll work the next stripe,
do the opposite.
If yOll start and end a row with 3
embossed stitches or 3 norlllal
stitches, as needed, the pattern will
also match at the side scams after
yOlt have sewn the pieces together.
Waved Ribbing
Waved ribbing patterns are very
striking, but require quite some
effort. To work this way, first slip the
horizontal thread of the first previous
Shifted row (= on the wrong side of the
embossing work, the second horizontal thread
below the stitch you want to work)
in front of the knit stitch and knit
both together. Then, in order, do
that for the horizontal threads of the
second, third, fourth, fifth, fourth,
third, second, and first previous row.
Then knit a normal knit stitch.
In the next row, Row 8, work the
pattern shifted over: Where you
worked the normal knit stitch, slip
the horizontal thread of the fifth
previous row (= on the wrong side of
the work, the sixth horizontal thread
Waved ribbing below the stitch you want to work)
and work a simple knit stitch where
you previously inserted the needle
the farthest down. For this pattern,
the number of stitches has to be
divisible by 10 + I stitch + 2
selvedge stitches.
155
Entrelac Patterns
f yOll want to work a sweater in examples shown, draw the entire Sweater
I Emrelac panern, yOll should
choose either a V~neck, bom
neck, or square neck. YOll can't make
sweater (or at least the front or back)
and I sleeve on graph paper.
In this pancrn, there are no limits
In this 3~color sweater, the pattern
pieces are worked over 10 stitches.
individual decreases for a rounded on how yOll vary the colors. You can The layout of the triangles and
neckline. Also, the sleeves ha\'c to use 2, 3, or more colors. Or you can squares is shown in the full diagram
be knit from the top down. A work each rectangle or triangle in a and phoro. Four triangles were left
decrease of half a pattern piece every different color. It might be worth~ Out for the front neckline. The
other row of the pattern is the while checking your scrap basket. wristband and waistband ribbing and
simplest answer for the slanted edges The si:e of the pattern pieces can the neckband were knit on later.
of the sleeves. also vary. On pages 158-159, the
The various schematic drawings pattern is explained step by step,
show you how the triangles and using the example of pattern pieces
squares can be divided lip. Always worked over 10 stitches. The pattern
work a sufficiently large sample for pieces can ~e made smaller or larger,
gauge. It should be at least 3 squares following the same principle.
wide and high. Then yOll call calcll~
late the size of the sweater. As in the
156
Entrelac Patterns
)< x><x
x
x
)< ?Y'Y.
)<
This example shows a rounded, Two ways of making V-neck For a slightly narrower
straight neckline. If the colors are sweaters: For a very wide neckline, knit another
laid out vertically, the front and the neckline, continue the V all small triangle at the top
back should be worked crosswise- the way to the shoulder. edge of the neckline on
i.e., from side seam to side seam. both sides.
Otherwise. the yarn ends have to
be sewn in for every color change.
The sleeves are worked from top to
bottom, as in the other examples.
157
Special Techniques
158
Entrelac Patterns
Row 2, last edge triangle Row 3, squares Row 4, end triangles from
At the end of the row, work Here, you work squares over the right to left
another triangle: pl0 st out of the entire row: Knit 10 st out of the Work the last st of the previous
side edge of the last triangle, t - side edge of the triangle, t- • pl0, triangle with the new yarn, then
kl0, t- p8, p2 tog, t- kg, t- p7, p2 t - kg, single dec (= slip the last st pick up 10 st knitwise out of the
tog, etc. Pull the working yarn knitwise, k the first 5t of the square side edge 1= 11 st), t - pg, p2 tog, t
through the last st and cut it off. of the second row and pass the - kg, 1 single dec, t - p8, p2 tog, t -
slipped st over), t - rep from' until k8, 1 single dec, t. Continue
all the stitches of the square are according to the same principle
used. Then don't turn and k until only 1 st is left on the needle.
another 10 st out of the side edge Then pick up another lOst out of
of the next part. Work the follow- the side edge. Work allthe follow-
ing squares the same way and, at ing triangles the same way_
the end, cut the yarn off.
Row 5, end row from left to Row 5. triangle Row 5, last small triangle
right, first small triangle Pick up 10 st purlwise out of the P lOst out of the side edge of the
For the first small triangle, p the side edge of the square, t - kl 1, t - last square, t - kll, t - p2tog, p7,
first 2 st of the last square you p2 tog, p8, pl st of the triangle tog p2 tog, t - kg, t - p2 tog, p5, p2 tog,
worked, t - kl, inc 1, selv st, t - p2, with the first 5t of the previous t - k7, t. Continue working
P the third sttog with the first st of square (= p2 tog), t- kl0, t = p2 according to the same principle. At
the square (= p2 tog), t - k2, inc 1, tog, p7, p2 tog, t - kg, t - p2 tog, p6, the end, p2 tog, put the st back
selv st, t- p3, p2tog, t- k3, inc 1, p2 tog, 1. Continue working onto the left needle, and p the last
selv st, t- p4, p2 tog, t- k4, inc 1, according to the same principle. P 2 st tog. Cut off the yarn and pull
selv st, t - p5, p2 tog, t - k6, t - p2 the last 2 st of the end triangle tog, the end through.
tog, p3, p2 tog, t - k5, t - p2 tog, p2, put the st back onto the left
p2 tog, t- k4, t- p2 tog, pl, p2 tog, needle, and then p tog with the
t - k3, t - p2 tog 2-, then pass the last st of the square.
first st over the second = 1 5t left.
159
Reversible Patterns
160
Reversible Patterns
161
Special Techniques
~IIII~
8 working each row twice. However,
-------- - - -
7 7 this is hardcr and takes longer.
work, those
right side of on
the 86 6
the left side 5 - - - - - 5 To do this, use a circular knitting
4 - - - -
stand for a row 4 3
2
- - - -
- - - - -
- - - 3 needle so that you can push the
on the wrong 2 stitches to the end of the needle,
side of the work. where the yarn in the color you need
Drawings 3 and 4 show the same stitches of the individual rows. Read is located.
color sequence for a reversible the stitches-i.e., colors of the rows Now work 1 TOW on the right side
pattern. The darker vertical lines on the right side of the work from of the work, (or examplc, with the
separate the pairs of stitches. The right to left, those on the wrong blue yarn. If you are not working a 2~
short horizontal lines show the purl side of the work from left to right. color pattern, knit all the knit
162
Reversible Patterns
163
Decorative
Details
Knitted pieces are made
one of a kind with lovely
embroidery, attractive
smocking, or bobble
embellishments.
Crocheted and Knitted Bobbles
166
Crochet and Knitted Bobbles
Knit-in Bobbles
Bobbles can be knit different ways.
Small bobbles are knit over 3
stitches, large bobbles over 5 to 7
stitches. The number of rows also
depends on how big yOll want the
bobbles to be. Of course the size of
the bobble is also determined by the
thickness and the consistency of the
yarn.
Bobbles aTC knit either over the
167
Duplicate Stitch and Embroidery
168
Duplicate Stitch and Embroidery
169
Decorative Details
Embroidery
on Organza
It is rather difficult
to work this em~
broidery directly
ontO a knitted
background,
since the stitches are generally
too large and too loose. Small designs
should therefore be drawn on
organza (a very thin fabric made of
silk). Larger ones can also be drawn
on somewhat coarser waste canvas.
1 Draw the design onto organza
or waste canvas, and baste it to
the knitted piece with prick stitch.
2 After the embroidery is done,
pull the threads of the organza
or waste canvas out individually.
Baste this pattern securely 011[0 the
knitted piece llsing running basting
stitch or prick stitch. In the particu~
Jar case of larger designs, prick stitch
is better, because organza and even
waste canvas can easily pull out of
shape when you arc lIsing running
basting stitch.
On organza, you should always
embroider with a sharp embroidery
needle. On waste canvas, you can
also work with a tapestry needle.
When lIsing waste canvas, the
stitches have to be pulled a little
tighter so that the embroidery is snug The larger areas are divided into 2
against the background even after fields. French knots fill the center. Full-size pattern for the flower.
the waste canvas is removed.
Outline Stitch
Even a delicate butterfly can
Individual lines are worked in outline be embroidered on knitted
stitch, such as those next to the pieces by using organza.
sea horses on page 168. These lines
are frequently used to separate
different areas of color. Not only does
outline stitch accentuate the area, it
also hides any irregularities in the
appearance of the stitches.
To work outline stitch, bring the
needle Ollt at the desired location.
Insert it to the right, and bring it out
again halfway between the beginning
and end of the stitch, always working
above the yarn of the previous stitch.
\Xlork outline stitch from left to
right. Turn the knitted piece as
necessary. Outline stitches emphasize color Outline stitch
areas and make them look neater.
170
Duplicate Stitch and Embroidery
Satin Stitch
You can fill an area with satin stitch.
Work parallel stitches right next to
one another. The stitches can lie
horizontally or diagonally. They can
also be directed in slightly, as for the Lazy daisy stitch French knot
flower petals above. To achieve this,
leave a slightly larger gap between
the stitches on the outside edge than
between those on the inside edge of
the area.
171
Smocking
P
stitch and 1 in stockinette stitch, ... are working.
the gauge will change signifi~
cantly. Depending on the pat~
tern, yOlI will need approximately
25% more stitches. That's why it is
absolutely necessary to knit a suffi,
ciendy large sample for gauge. Finish
this sample just like the piece itself:
Block the sample, let it dry under a
damp cloth, and then do the smock-
ing. Only after you have done all this
can you count the stitches and rows.
In smocking, individual stitches are
sewn together using back stitch.
These stitches have to be marked On stockinette stitch, mark the
first, either with knit or purl stitches, stitches to be smocked with
or with basting thread. basting thread or...
If you are knitting with tightly
twisted wool, CQ[WI1. or a synthetic
blend, you can use the same yarn for
smocking. Normally, it will be strong
enough and won't tear. If the yarn is
thick and tear~resistant, yOll can
even sew with half the yarn. If you
are knitting with a loosely twisted
wool or angora, you must use a
stronger, but not tOO heavy, yarn or
thread for sewing.
Starr smocking in the bottom~left
corner and always work 2 horizontal
rows at the same time. By alternating ...sew around the third and second
the stitches in this way, yOli get rib stitch. Then go down with the
slanred threads on the wrong side of needle to the right of the third rib
the work, and the knitted piece will stitch. and bring it out again 4 rows
remain stretchable. lower to the left, next to the third rib
stitch. Keep repeating these steps.
At the end of the row, turn the work,
and work from left to right again.
172
Smocking
Smocking Stretched-
out Sweaters
If a sweater worked in ribbing
or shaker knitting has gorten
stretched out and too \viele
because it \vas worn and
washed frequently. yOll can get
it back imo shape '\Vitll smock-
ing. Depending on the desired
width of tile s,\vearer, yOll can
The finished smocking piece has a Sewing small beads on top of the smock the whole sweater, just
pronounced texture. smocking stitches makes the piece the middle or the sides. or even
particularly attractive. just incli\'idl1~11 \'emcal strips.
In shaker knirting. larger
inrervals between rhe smock-
ing stitches are more anractive.
Here again. the width of the
knitted piece will be reduced
by abollt 25%.
173
Porn-porns, Tassels, Fringes
Pom-poms
A large pom,pOIl1, or 2 or 3 small
ones, gives a finishing tollch to a
child's knitted hat. Many little pom,
poms at the bottom edge of pullovers
withom ribbing arc also a lot of fun.
2 Cut the yarn
around the edge,
and put a knot between the
You can make snakes and other cardboard circles with a strong
animals out of pom,poms. And a gift piece of yarn or thread.
package wrapped with wool and
decorated with a lot of colorful pam,
polllS is very original. There are no
Tassels
limits on your imagination! Tassels are even simpler to make
Cut 2 rings of the same size from than pom~poms. A fat tassel can
sturdy cardboard. The outside even replace a pom~pom on a knitted
diameter of these rings corresponds hat. Instead of fringes, you can make
to about half the diameter of the
finished porn-porn. (You can also buy
plastic pom,pom makers in needle,
3 Trim the porn-porn into shape
with a sharp pair of scissors.
many little tassels on a scarf. Tassels
are also a traditional and attractive
touch on pillows, tablecloths, and
work scores.) The inside diameter has table runners.
[Q be about 1/3 [Q 1/2 of the oUTside For tassels, you need scraps of yarn
diameter. For example, if the outside and a rectangular piece of cardboard
diameter is 2V2'\ the inside diameter that is as long as the desired tassel
of the circle should be about length.
JA"_PA". The bigger the inside Place a double piece of yarn along
diameter, the firmer the pom'poll1. the top edge of rhe cardboard and
ow place the 2 rings on top of loosely wind the yarn around both
each other. Thread a heavy yarn the piece of yarn and the cardboard.
needle with several long pieces of Then knot the top threads tight
yarn, and sew around the cardboard together, and cut the bunch of yarn
rings until the hole in the middle is at the bottom edge. Wrap yarn tight
filled with yarn. around the bunch of yarn about V2"
Then cut the yarn along the below the top edge, pull rhe ends
You can use any type of yarn for
outside edge. Pull the cardboard pom-poms. Even scraps of yarn through the wrapped part, and cut
circles apart slightly, wind double can be used for a bright and them off. Finally, trim the bottom
yarn around the bundle of yarn very colorful porn-porn. edge of the tassel so that it is straight.
174
Pom-poms, Tassels, Fringes
Fringes
Hand~kni[ scarves somehow look
incomplete without fringes. Individ~
lIal fringes can also look very attrac~
rive on vests and cardigans.
The pieces of yarn have to be twice
as long plus approximately 3/f' as the
desired length of the fringe. For short
Wrap yarn around a rectang- fringes, wind the yarn around a rec~
1 ular cardboard, and tie the
bunch of yarn at the top. Cut it
[angular piece of cardboard Cll[ to
the right size. For longer fringes, you
open at the bottom. can even wrap the yarn around a
book of the correct size. Then cut
the bunch of yarn at the bottom
1 Pull the bunches of yarn down
and through with a crochet hook.
edge.
Now pur 2 to 3 pieces of yarn to~
gethet and fold them in half. Insert a
crochet hook through a stitch of the
scarf from bottom to top, and pull
the pieces of yarn through so that a
loop is formed on the bottom. Draw
the ends of the yarn through this
loop and pull them tight. Leave a
Wrap the bunch of yarn tightly space of I to 3 stitches between
2 with some more yarn, and
trim the ends to a uniform length.
every fringe.
For a fringed edge with multiple
knots, the pieces of yarn have to be
about 2 1h" longer than the desired
fringe length. Knot the fringes in
2 Bring the ends of the yarn
through the loop and pull
them tight. Finally, trim the fringes
with a crochet hook, as described so they are the same
above. Then, fot the fitSt row of length.
knots, take only half of the bunch of
yarn at the beginning
and cnd. In bctwecn,
always knot half of 2
bunches of yarn togethcr
at a distancc of about V2"
from the edge. Bring the
Whether they're solid or mixed
knot to the desired
colors, they're always
location the same way as
decorative.
for the tailor's knot (page
153). Work the second row of
knots the same way. At the
beginning and end, knot the first
half bunch of yarn together with half
of the next one.
"c
:>i
<.>
"c
£
.<:
C,
c
.3
Sweater Width in single shaker knitting a little long neckband, it can also be I JAil
sharrer than you want it to be, to 1!I2" deep.
In general, the following applies for because this patterns tends to stretch
traditional swearers: 'h body mea~ in length more than double shaker Armholes
surcmcnt + 3W' = Ih sweater knitting or textured patterns.
width. For a relaxed fit, you have For sweaters that come only to the If you don't like dropped shoulders,
[Q allow a little more. Measure at waist, measure the length from the you should always work an armhole.
the widest part of the chest. For neck/shoulder point to the waist, and The looser the fit of the sweater, the
very long sweaters, the hip mea~ add the ribbing length. deeper the armhole can be. Arm~
surcmcnt also has to be taken into holes can be straight, slanted, or
consideration. Necklines roundeJ.
For sweaters that cOllle only to the
waist, measure the waist. If the For necklines, calculate 'Il of the Slanted Shoulders
sweater is supposed to be relatively back width measured on the body
snug, add about [112" for the front plus approximately 1JAil to I'h"-in Slanted shoulders make every
and for the back, srarting from the other words, about I/J of the sweater swearer fit better, because nobody
ribbing. width for normal sweaters. For V# has straight shoulders. And the wider
necks, a little less is enough, since the swearer, the more important it is
Sweater Length the length of the neckline also influ- to have slanted shoulders, especially
ences the width in this case. if you haven't pur in any armholes.
The length is ITleasured from the To prevent sweaters and cardigans For shorr shoulder pieces, it is
neck/shoulder point over the chest to frol11 slipping to the back, you enough to work regular decreases
the desired length. Note that de~ should make a small neckline on over 3;4" to I JAn. Wide, long shoulder
pending on the type of yarn and the the back part too, except when you seams can be decreased over as much
way you knit, long sweaters usually are making a completely straight as 3".
stretch somewhat in length. For boar neck. It should be at least 3;4"
example, you should work a sweater deep. If you are adding a rather
178
Measurements and Patterns
179
Practical Tips
Pattern 9 Pattern 10
180
Measurements and Patterns
?------
the stitches every other row, then
every fourth row. The second sleeve
has to be worked as a reverse of the
first (see also the SlVeater, page 202).
i--
I Pattern 15: For a kimono pattern,
the increases for the slanted edges at
the sides and the sleeves are worked
in a rounded shape.
Pattern 16
Pattern 16: For a kimono pattern
with a flaneneJ shoulder/sleeve line,
the simplest solution is to bind the
stitches off ane! sew them together
later using grafting stitch (page 114).
Pattern 15
181
Converting Patterns
T
he most, important thing for the neckline. In traditional patterns, 112st
convening patterns to a the neckline width is approximately 131 48 131
different size or yarn is the l/J of the sweater width, deducting
gauge. In the following examples. 22 the selvedge stitches. For size 4, the
stitches and 30 rows are 4" X 4". calculation would be: 18 x 2,2 = 52
This means that .4 square inches 39,6-i.e" 37 stitches for the neck- 116st
comains 2.2 stitches and 3 rows; line, (For si:e 8: 20 X 2,2 = 44-
these are the numbers you use for i,e" 42 stitches,) This leaves 18 X 28 51 increase:
your calculations. So yOll have to 2.2 = 39,6 + 2 selvedge stitches = 2x every sixth row, then
26x every fourth row
multiply the inch measurements for 42 stitches for the shoulders, (For = 116 rows for increases 00
,,~
the width by 2,2, those for the length size 8: 19 X 2,2 = 41.8 + 2 sel-
by 3, vedge stitches = 44 stitches.)
If you come lip with numbers that For the back neckline, you need
are not whole numbers, round off. J,4'l_i.e., 6 TOWS. This means thar
For example, if your calculation after bimling off the cemer stitches,
gives yOll 127.6 stitches, that would you can decrease twice. \Vith this 13 141 18 141 13
be 128 stitches; if you come up with gauge, 4 stitches once and 2 stitches
114.4, you can choose either 114 or once are the best option. Therefore,
115. The 2 selvedge stitches are bind off the cemer 25 stitches (size
always added to these numbers; this 8: 30 stitches) first. Sleeves
means that for these parts, yOll need For the front neckline, you have
130 and 116 or 117 stitches, 2y,"-i,e., 18 rows, Here the last 4 For the sleeves. you do the same
respectively. rows are supposed to be worked on calculations: The width after the
In instructions, panerns are usually the same number of stitches-i.e., wristband ribbing is 26 X 2,2 = 57,2
shown in only half their width, so yOll can decrease 7 times = 14 TOWS. + 2 selvedge stitches = 60 stitches
that thc indicatcd width has [Q be For an attractive rounded edge, the for size 4.
doubled. To make the calculations decreases should become smaller as For the ribbing, 7" = 39,6 stitches
easier [Q understand, we have shown you go: For size 4, first bind the + 2 selvedge stitches, but 42 stitches
the patterns in their entire width. center 15 stitches off straight across, in the ribbing pattern might be too
then, every other row, 3 stitches tight. Add a few stitches---6 stitches
Front and Back once, 2 stitches twice, and I stitch in this case. Increase the missing 12
4x, (For si:e 8: the center 16 stitches at the end of the ribbing
For a size 4 pattern, the calculation is stitches, then, every other TOW, 4 evenly distributed over the TOW.
as follows: 54 x 2,2 = 118,8, This stitches once, 3 stitches once, 2 Now first calculate the top sleeve
means that you need ll9 stitches stitches once, and 1 stitch 4x.) width: 52 X 2,2 = 114.4 + 2
plus 2 selvedge stitches = 121 selvedge stitches = 116 stitches,
182
Converting Patterns
Patterns for Size 14 and every fourth row 26 times. Or stockinette stitch give you 16 stitches
you can divide the first few increases for a 4" X 4" square, Of 4 stitches per
I 19 20 19 even more evenly: Increase I stitch inch. The cable, which is made up of
...
\;l
~
N
44 $1
\. ./
44 st alternately every fourth and sixth
row 4 times, then I stitch every
26 stitches, is 4$' wide. The sweater
you want to make is 24" wide, the
Neckline: 42 sl fourth row 24 times = 116 rows. sleeve is ] 1.2" wide after the wrist·
Back: center 25 sl, then In general, increases are spaced band ribbing, and 23.2" wide at the
4sl1x:and2st1x farther apart at the bottom end of top.
Front: center 15 st, then the sleeve and closer together to~ The calculation for the front and
3 st lx, 2 512x, and 1 514x
- -- wards the top of the sleeve. As an back: 24" - 14.4" for the 3 cables =
<Xl
"'
..
~
example: You want to make the
slceve only 14'12" long but still
9.6". 9.6 X 4 = 38.4 stitches + 2
selvedge stitches = 40 stitches. This
increase 28 stitches. This means: 108 means that you need a total of 40 +
rows divided by 28 = 3.86. There- 78 stitches for the cables = 118
fore, some increases have to be stitches. The 40 stitches in stockin~
worked every fou rth row, some every erte stitch are divided up between
third row-i.e., alternately every the cables-for example, 8 stitches
+1051=13Ost second and fourth row. between each of the cables and 12
... I 12051 I ... The answer is: Increase I stitch stitches at each side.
13~1----...:.5::2:"'----~131 every fourth row 20 times = 80 rows, The calculation for the sleeves is as
then alternately every second and follows: After the wristband ribbing:
56 fourth row 8 times = 24 rows-Le., 11.2" - 4.8" cable = 6.4" X 4 = 25.6
126s1 104 rows in total. stitches. Add the 2 selvedge stitches
Here's a little trick: If you multiply and the 26 stitches for the cable =
18 X 4 in the example above, you 54 stitches. At the end of the sleeve:
31 51 increase: get 112 rows. You have 108 rows- 23.2" - 4.8" = 18.4" X 4 = 73.6.
1x in second row,
then 301{ in fourth row i.e., 104 rows to the last increase. Add 2 selvedge stitches and 26
= 122 rows for increases
The difference between 112 and 104 stitches (or the cable = 102 stitches.
is 8. Therefore, you work 8 increases You must increase 24 stitches on
with a smaller distance between both sides. With a sleeve length of
them. 18", you have 99-i.e., 100 rows to
Another example: You want to work with. 100 "'" 24= 4.17; 4 X 24
50s1 divide the 28 increases up ovef 94 = 96. Therefore, you must increase 1
14 141 20 141 14 rows: 94 "'" 28 = 3.35. Here you stitch every fOllrth row 24 times.
multiply 28 X 3 = 84 roll's. The Following this principle, you can
number of rows available for in~ perform these calculations for any
This means 56 stitches in total-i.e., creases is 90 = 6 rows difference. pattern.
28 stitches per side-have to be Therefore, you must increase at a
increased. greater distance 6 times = 6 X every
These increases must be evenly fourth row and 22 X every third
divided ovcr all the rows: 40 X 3 = row-i.e., alternately every second
120 rows in total. Now divide 120 by and fourth row = 90 rows.
28 = 4.29. This means that yOll have
to increase approximately every Working in Different
fourth row: 28 x 4 = 112. Since the Patterns
distance from the last increase to
binding off is supposed to be First of all, you have to knit a sample
approximately the same as that piece of each pattern for gauge. Then
between increases, it is too large count the number of stitches and
here. Divide the extra 4 rows over rows. Here's an example: You want
the beginning of the sleeve. This to knit a sweater that has 3 cables on
means that you can increase 1 stitch the front and back, and a center
on both sides every sixth row twicc, cable on the sleeve. Samples of This pattern chart is on page 215.
183
Lengthening and Shortening Pieces
Your \Vhen you shorten a piece, you last few rows. Undoing the rows is
don't have these problems. You just only necessary if there is no yarn end
sweater have to work carefully! for sewing when you have Cll[ the
came selvedge stitch. If you are making a
For Sleeves new ribbing, you can cut the sel~
alit too vedge stitch 1 row above the ribbing.
short, or a cardi- If you want to shorten a sleeve, you In most cases, wristband ribbing has
must put up with a wider sleeve to be knit on again, since the
gan or vest has width above the ribbing. If yOll are number of stitches changes both
"grown" longer, or the making a sleeve longer, you normally when lengthening or shortening the
can't follow the increase repeats of sleeve.
ribbing has stretched alit the slanted edge unless the sleeve
of shape or been damaged. was relatively wide above the wrist~ Undoing the Knitted
band.
Piece
Lengthening sleeves of children's
sweaters is usually not a worthwhile Actually, only 1 row of knitting is
thing to 00. For one thing, they are "undone." After the yarn is pulled
genetally subject to a lot of wear. out, the open stitches of the top and
Also, the shape changes so much bottom pieces can be put onto a
that the work involved in changing knitting needle in a straight row.
them is not much less than that for Use a thinner needle to do this so
knitting a whole new sweater. You that you don't pull or drop any
might be able to save some sweaters stitches.
I
n all these cases, you have to take by taking the sleeves alit entirely, To lengthen a piece, you can then
the piece apart at a certain point adding facings to the armholes, and add as many rows as needed with the
and make the changes as scam~ making a sleeveless sweater out of appropriate-size knitting needle, and
lessly as possible. This is not a big them. join the pieces again, using grafting
problem if the basic pattern is simple. If you want to save the ribbing, cut stitch. If you work the added knitting
Just follow the steps shown here. the selvedge stitch about 3 rows Onto the mp piece, the knittlng will
Making a sweater or cardigan long~ above the ribbing. Then yOll can shift over half a stitch. Within the
er is harder than making it shoner. catch the stitches by undoing the piece, this cannot be seen. However,
You still have to have enough of the
original yarn in the correct dye lot,
or be able to buy it. Also, worn
pieces are often slightly washed ou(
or discolored, so yOli might not even
be able to use the original yarn. For
children's sweaters, this is nor always
very importanti you can lise an en~
rirely different color and just work in
a few stripes. However, you should
always lise rhe same type of yarn,
because the gauge must be the same,
and the washing instructions should
be the same.
184
Lengthening and Shortening Pieces
'.
• .~ •• '.' "1 ','
f • , .",
I • " " ,
•
I, !.
, ......
ilifl:
I_-~-'
r L\" ';~";f'" , •,
" ..•. 'oj '. "~
185
Tips for Ribbings
K
nitted items made of wool or almost invisibly into the ribbing. Bm of the ribbing. you should put in 4 to
wool blends are relatively if this thread wears Ollt, the ends will 6 rows this way and spaced evenly
resilient. The ribbing can be stick out all over, and the pieces are over the ribbing.
pressed into shape after washing and hard ro pull our and remove. Even morc durable is the method
usually does not stretch out of shape. of crocheting the elastic thread on
However, cotton and some symhetic Sewing in or with slip stitches. Although 2 to 3
fibers are different. Ribbing made of rows are generally enough, you need
Crocheting on
these yarns tends to stretch oU[ of a lot mOTC material. In addition, yOll
shape easily, so you should always Elastic Thread have to sew the ends in very secure~
work this ribbing with needles 2 sizes ly, because if the knot comes out, so
smaller than for the rest of the The best and most durable solution does the whole row. That's why it's
sweater. is if you pull a somewhat heavier important that you crochet each
You can get very thin elastic thread elastic thread through with a tapestry row individually and sew it in
(see top phoro) that you can knit needle after the ribbing is finished. individually.
On the wrong side of the work, at Or crochet slip stitches through !12 For 2 X 2 ribbing, always put the
regular intervals, pull elastic thread of all the knit stitches with the tapestry needle through the first
through ';' of all the knit stitches elastic thread, at regular intervals, and last loops of the knit stitches
with a tapestry needle, and sew or and sew them securely at the when you sew or crochet the
knot them into the selvedge edges. elastic thread in.
stitches.
186
Tips for Ribbings
Elastic Waistband
For heavy sweaters, skirts, or chil~
dren's pants, wide elastic can be sewn
on or inserted into a double
waistband.
Knitting on New
Ribbing Cut the purl stitches of the
\Vorn~out or damaged ribbing can
also be replaced as follows: Open the
2 ribbing open carefully, below
the knitting needle, take the rib-
seams partway. Now pull a marking bing off the sweater, and remove
thread through V:z of all the knit the small pieces of yarn.
stitches of the second row of the
187
Dropped Stitches
Whether your cat or child For e\'elY purl stitch (and also
for every firsl knit sliICh), the
played with your knitting, crochet hook has to be taken our
or whether you weren't and put into the stitch again.
For gaIter stitch. you insert the
paying attention, dropped crochet hook into the stitch
stitches are a nuisance, but alternately from the front and
back.
you can easily fix them with
a crochet hook, For Single Shaker
Knitting
For knit stitches, pull the horizontal Here there is a smooth side and a
For Stockinette Stitch thread directly above the stitch on rough side. Either a dropped stitch
the crochet hook through that stitch, on the smooth side (the shaker knit
It is quite easy to fix a mistake here. stitch side) or a rough stitch on the
For knit stitches, puc the crochet other side has to be rescued.
hook through from the front-Le., If a stitch was dropped in single
from below-and pull the horizontal shaker knitting, you must first undo
thread above it through. Repeat. the individual threads, as explained
for double ,haker knitting, In
cOntrast to the double shaker
For Textured Patterns knitting, single shaker knitting
always has alternately a shorr thread
For reverse srockinene stitch, the and a long thread on both sides.
easiest thing to do is to turn the
work and crochet the knit stitches.
For textured patterns, yOll have [Q
work differently: knit and purl For purl stitches, insert the hook
stitches as required by the pattern. into the stitch from behind-i,e"
For purl stitches, ill5en the crochet from the top-behind the horizon-
hook from behind-i,e,. from above- tal thread above it, and pull the
and pull the horizontal dlread through, horizontal thread through,
111en take the crochet hook our again.
For a smooth stitch in single shaker On the rough side, catch the stitch .. ,crochet the long thread, and
knitting, insert the crochet hook into with the crochet hook, If there is then also crochet the short thread,
the stitch, put the hook under the still a short thread above that stitch, Repeat these steps,
short thread above that stitch, catch pull it through first. Then put the
the long thread, and pull it through, hook under the next short thread, .. ,
188
Dropped Stitches
'-
....
Undoing Your Work stitches nOt to be pulled tOO tightly, the next knit stitch. If the knit stitch
it is very important to use a thin continues to drop, catch the
If you've Inade a really big mistake knitting needle. Pur the needle hori:ontal thread of the knit stitch
over many stitches, the only sol urian through the purl stitches and the underneath it. Then undo another
is to undo your work. Undo the yarn over from back to front. Then row. At the stitch in question, simply
knitted piece to the row before the carefully undo the yarn and catch transfer it to the right needle.
mistake. To pick up the stitches, usc
a needle that is abom I size smaller
than the one you used for knitting.
This makes it easy to pick up the
stitches, even if you knit tightly.
Before you undo a stitch, always
put the needle inro the stitch under~
neath it from back ro front. Pull the
yarn our carefully. Continue working
this way, 1 stitch at a time. Hold the
yarn in your left hand and keep
winding it around your forefinger as
you undo the stitches. At the end of
each row, turn your work and con~
tinue working with the appropriate When undoing knitted pieces, pick When ur doing shaker knitting,
needles. up 1 stitch at a time from back to catch thf yarn over along with the
In the case of shaker knitting, front. purl stitc ,es, and carefully pick the
picking the stitches up is slightly knit stitcl es up onto the needle.
more difficult. In order for the
189
Pattern Charts
Pattern charts have the great is usually also the case if all the
stitches are worked as they lie-i.e.,
advantage that you can the purl stitches are purled, the knit
easily imagine what a stitches are knit.
This can be clearly seen using the
pattern will look like. example of a simple textured pat~
tern. Chart 1 shows the pattern in
the rows on the right side of the
work; the row numbers are given
only on the right side of the chart.
Chart 2, on the other hand, is marc Te.xwred pauern
confusing, although it shows the
ritten instructions for same pattern. Here the TOWS on the
W 15 Chart 1:
individual stitches arc oftcn right and wrong side of the work - - - - 13
Only the
complicated and more are shown the way they are worked; "9
7
rows on the
difficult (Q understand because of the the numbers for the rows on the S right side of
3
long text. Here is some information right side of the work are on the --- --- 1 the work
about the width and the length of a right, the number for the rows on 10-51 repeat are shown.
pattern, then 300m how to read a the wrong side of the work are on
pattern chart. rhe left. 16 Chart 2:
15
Chart 3 shows another possible 14 The same
Pattern Width way of representing the stitches. 12
13
pattern with
Here the stitches are shown in the - - - 11 the rows on
10
The width of the pancrn repeat is rows on the right and wrong side of 9 the right
8
given under each pancrn chart. for the work the way they appear on the 7 and wrong
6
the textured pattern shown, it is 10 right side. The chart explanation s side shown
stitches. These 10 stitches arc can, would then have to say: Open box = • 3 as they are
2
srantly repeated. The last stitch of knit stitch on right side of work, purl worked.
the pattern is only worked at the end stitch on wrong side of work. Box 10-51 repeat
of the piece [Q complete the pattern. with hori:omal line = purl stitch on
To calculate the number of stitches right side of work, knit stitch on 16 Chart 3:
15
needed, the number of stitches must wrong side of work. The stitches
be divisible by 10 + I stitch + Z "12 - - - - 13
on the right
11
selvedge stitches-fof example, 43 Reading a Pattern 10 and wrong
9
stitches. sides are
On some pancrns, several stitches Chart 8
7 shown as
6
arc shown on both sides of the pat' On all pattern charts, the rows on s they appear
tern repeat to complete the pattern. the right side of the work read from • --- 3 on the right
In this case, you start with the first right to left, the rows on the wrong
2
--- ----
---- side of the
10-51 repeat
stitches of the chart after the sel~ side of the work from left to righr, work.
vedge stitch, then repeat the pattern always in the knitting direction. The
repeat as indicated. At the end, work selvedge stitches are not shown.
the last stitches on the chart and the unless otherwise indicated. The pattern repeats between the
selvedge stitch. For a textured pattern, the text for asterisks. This means in the first row,
the first 3 rows would read: for example, that after the first 3
Row 1: selv sr, <, kZ, p7, kl," kl, stirches, yOll alternately p7 and k3
Pattern Length sclv st. (the last stitch before the asterisk
Row 2 and all subsequent rows on and the first Z stitches after rhe
Many charts show only the rows on WS: work the St as they lie. (0" asterisk) .
the right side of the work. That is Row 2: selv st, pi, " pi, k7, pZ, rep Reading patterns in words might
practically always the case if the from ';', selv st.) seem easier to some knitters than
stitches are simply purled in the rows Row J: selv St, ':' kJ, p5, kZ, rep from reading pattern charts. Bur the
on the wrong side of the work. Or it *, kl, selv st. complicated length of the text
190
Pattern Charts
becomes clear when you read the rep from '\ pi, selv st.
instructions for the little openwork R 11: selv st, ,', p 2, yo, k I, single
pattern according to Chart 4: dec, k 4, p I, rep from '::, pi, selv st.
Row I: selv st, ,', p2, k5, k2 tog, yo, Row 13: selv st, ,', p2, yo, k2, single
pI, rep from ':', pI, sclv st- dec, k3, p C rep from, :::, pI, selv st.
Row 2 and all WS row: work the st Row 15: selv st, ,', p2, yo, k3, single
as they lie. dec, k2, pI, rep from ':', pi, selv st.
Row 3: selv st, ,', p2, k4, k2 tog, kl, Repeat Rows 1 to 16.
yo, pI, rep from '\ pi, sclv st.
Row 5: selv st, ,', p2, k3, k2 tog, k2,
yo, pI, rep from ::" pi, selv st.
It. 0 - - 15
Row 7: selv st, ':' p2, k2, k2 tog, k3, ... 0-- 13 Chart 4:
... 0 - 11
yo, pI, rep from ':', pi, sclv st. "'0-- 9 Pattern chart
--0 ~ 7
Row 9: selv sr, ,', p2, yo, single dec --0 A 5 for openwork
--0 ~ 3 pattern
(slip 1st knitwise, kl, psso), k5, pi, -o~ 1
10-5t repeat
191
Sleeve Increases in Openwork Patterns
W
orking openwork patterns
on straight pieces is easy for
most knitters. The prob·
lems start with increases in the
sleeve.
Here is the simplest solution: Draw
the slanted edges of the sleeves on
tn an openwork
graph paper. For symmetrical patterns
parrem, i[ is easier
like the diamond pattern shown
to sew rhe sleeve
here, it is very helpful if yOll draw at
seams using
least the right side of the slee\'e. invisible sritc!J if
Then the pattern repeat is repeated an additional
as often as necessary, and the pattern scockineue schell is
is widened in reverse on the left side. worked on bOt11
sides next co tlte
selvedge "itch.
192
Sleeve Increases in Openwork Patterns
0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0_ 0_ ' 0 0_ 0_ .0 0_ 0 .0 0_ 0_ . 0
0_ 0 0 .0 0_ 0 .0 0_ 0 .0 0_ 0 0 .0
0_ 0_ 0_ 0_ .0
,
+0_ 0_ . 0 .0 0_ 0_ . 0 .0 0 .0 .0+
+ 0_
OA
0_ .0
'0
. 0 0_
.0 0 0
A
0_
0_
OA
.0
.0
.0
.0 0
A- OA
0_
OA
'0
.0
.0 OA
0_
. 0 0 0 OA
OA
OA .0
.0 •
+ 0 _.0 0 A 0 0 ... 0 +
0 0 0 0 0 0 <-0 0 0 0 0
+
, OA
OA OA . 0
0 0 .0 0_
0_
0
.0
.0 OA
OA 0_ .0
0 0 .0
+
,
XO 0_ OA .0 .0 OA 0_ 0 .0 OA 0_ . 0 .0 ox
.0 OA
+ 0_
0 0 OA
0_
0_ .0
.0•
.0
OA
OA
0 0_
0_ . 0
0_
0_
'0
.0
'0
.0 0
0_
0
0
OA
0_
OA
- '0
.0
. 0 OA
.0 0 0
0_ +
0_+
.0
0 0 0 0 0 0->0 0 0 0
+0 .0 0_ OA .0 OA 0 .0 OA +
I .0 0_ 0 .0 OA 0 .0 0_ 0
XO .0 OA 0_ . 0 .0 OA 0_ .0 0_ ox
.0 .0 0_ 0_ .0 OA OA
+.0 OA 0_ .0 OA 0_ OA+
' 0 0 0 0_ .0 0 OA . 0 0 0 OA
77 +,
0 _'0
0 0 0 0
OA .0
0_
OA
0
0 0 - -0
<-0
.0
.0 0_
OA
0 ... 0
0 0 0<-0
0_ '+ ·77
0 0
+
0 - k st 0 0 .0 0
+'A .0
0 .0
.0
.0 OA
0_
0_
0_ 0
.0
.0
.0 0_
0_
0_
OA '0+
,
IQI yo + .0 0_ OA '0 0_ 0_ +
.0 0->0 OA . 0 0 0 0_
~
~
k2 tog
- slip 1 st
+
0_
0_
0
0-> 0 0
0_ .0
->0 .0 0_
0_
0->0
0
0->
-
.0
0
.0
.0
+
+
knitwise, kl, D_ o_ . 0 .0 0_ 0_ 0 .0
--
55 +' 0_ . 0 .0 0_ .0 ,+ • 55
and pass slipped 0_ '0 0_ .0
0_
stitch over ,+0_ .0 0 .0+
~ - k3 tog 45 xo
.0
0_
0
0->0
0_ 0 0_
- -0
<-0
.0
.0 0_
ox • 45
0_ 0 .0 0_+
~ +.0
_ slip 1 st knitwise, k2,
and pass slipped
stitch over
•
,+
0_
0_
0 0_
.0
0_
0_
.0
.0
.0 0
.0
0_
0
0
+
-
31 • x 0 0 0 0 X 31
ill 1 k st instead of pattern 0_ . 0
0 .0 0_
0_
0
0
193
Basic
Patterns
This section includes the
instructions for all the
designs in this book. It
also has socks and
gloves, which are
explained in detail with
tables for all sizes.
Sweaters
T
he paper patterns show only Front: Cast on 5 S[ with plum, 30 st
Sweater with Intarsia
half the width. Only for the with orange, 17 S[ with yellow, 17 sr
raglan sweater worked in shaker Pattern with plum, and 59 st with black (128
knitting is the entire left sleeve Size: 8/10 st). Work in ribbing for 1V2", keeping
shown. Yarn: virgin wool yarn approx. 125 111 the color pattern the same.
The instructions ask (or a normal (137'1, yds)/50 g (i',4 0'); 450 g Continue in stockinette stitch,
cast on with 1 needle. However, yOll (15 3,4 0') of black. 50 g (I ',4 02) each following the pattern chart. Every
can cast on in kirchencr rib (starting of turquoise, red, green, yellow, row is shown; 1 box corresponds to 1
on page 22). orange, pistachio, and plum stitch.
The number of stitches indicated Basic pattern: Stockinette stitch on
always includes selveJgc stitches. si:e 6 needles. I '0 I 20
According to the instructions, Gauge: 21 st and 29 rows = 4" X 4" <II
::':
stitches at the shoulder seams are Ribbing: Alternately kl, pIon si:e 3
always bound off. However, shoulder needles. W
N
seams in grafting stitch or knit seams
generally look better. To finish the Back: Cast on 128 S[ with black and
I 28
seams this way, put the stitches work ribbing for 11/2" starring on \'(/S. I
temporarily on a stitch holder and
finish the shoulders after yOll are clone
Continue in stockinette stitch with
black. When the piece is 26'/z" long,
N
WI I
with the second piece. bind off the center 26 st, then 4 st
W ~I
M
N
~
196
Sweaters
\X!hen the piece is 24 3/ ... long, bind Continue in stockinette stitch with For the neckbanJ, cast on 116 st
off the center 16 st, then 4 st IX, 3 black, and increase I st every fourth with black on a shoft size J circular
st IX, 2 st lx, and I st 3x, every row 29x {I 20 st). needle, and work in round ribbing for
other row, on both sides, for the When the piece is IBW' long, bind 11A", then k 2 rounds. Sew stitches of
neckline. off all stitches. the neckband to the neckline lIsing
When the piece is 27 1A" long, bind Finishing: Correct the color changes back stitch, undoing the 2 knit
off the shoulder stitches. on the front, if necessary (sec page rounds as you scw it on (scc pages
Sleeves: Cast on 50 st with black 147) 70-72)
and work ribbing for I l/21!. In the last Sew the shoulder seams, sew the
row, increase 12 st evenly distributeu sleeves on, then sew the side seams
over the row (62 st). and sleeve seams.
197
Basic Patterns
198
Sweaters
199
Basic Patterns
Pocket width'" 44 st
,,, ,-- --, ,, --, 1--1 I I --I I I I 1 111- 1--1111-- 31
,,,, ,-- ,
--, ,, ,--
11-- -- I I I I - till 1 1-- 29
111-- I I I I I
,--
--,
I I
I I
-- I I I I
-- I I I 1-- 1
1--
t --
11--
I I 1 --
27
25
I'
I'
,,
,, ,--
,-- --, , ,
--, , , -, 1--1
1--1
111-- I I 1 1 I I 1 1 I I 1
I I 1-- 1 I I I I I I I 1 I I
111-
111-
11 I I I
II III
I I 1 1 I
I I 1 1 1
1--
1--1111--
-123
119
,,,
,, , --, ,,, , -- I I 1 1 1 I 1 1 I I 1
,, , -I I 1 1 1 1 I I I 1 1-- I 17
- , ,,, ,,
I' 1-- 1 1 1 I - I 15
I' III I I I 1 1 I I I I 1 1-- I 1 I I - I 13
,, ,- - , ,,, ,- 1--1
I I I I I I I I I 1 - 1-- -111
I'
,-- 1 I I I I 111II 1-- I I I I
I
1 9
7
, ,
5
3
I 1
--+1 --+
,i
I I -- I I -- -- 1 1 -- 1--
'I 'I t End of sleeve EEl • On WS, inc 1 st purl twisted from the horizontal thread
Beginning of sleeve I
End of front Beginning of front and back
Center of back
200
Sweaters
,7:
~ I '7 I
back, but fOt the neckline, when the
18
gl m
M piece is 12 3/.... long, bind off the center
I
I
10 st, [hen 3 st Ix, 2 st 2x, and I st N
MI
0
N I 3x, evelY other row, on both sides.
~
I
Sleeves: Cast on 36 st and work in
~ ~ ;;
31 131 131 14 ribbing for I 'A". In the last rowan t! I 7 Ia B I
"
1
12 '7
201
Basic Patterns
I 7 I 9 I
III - III
'" I
r:}
~ I 15 I
'.'
I
g)1
~ N
I 1
_ f2
;, '4
"" I 7 13 6 1
203
Socks
Now we'll making the If you prefer canon, try Schoeller over the first and fourth needles. The
Esslinger's Forrissima Cotton, which arch-the top of the foor-is worked
rounds, because socks are is 75% cotton. This yarn is also rein, over the second and third needles.
knit with a set of needles in forced with 25% nylon. It is approxi-
mately 209 m (230 yds) per 50 g (PII
the round. Once you have 0:), and is worked with the same size
the hang of it, it's really velY needles.
Reinforcing the heel and the toe is
simple. And since you need a good idea, because these parts are
at most 50 g (13), OZ) of yarn particularly subject to wear. Rein- Ribbing
forcement yarns are available in
per sock, you'll be done in many different colors.
no time. Socks should be knit as tightly as
possible with an even gauge. Normal~
ty, size 2 needles are the right size,
but if you knit very loosely, size 0
might be better. That is why you
should definitely knit a sample for
Y
QlI should always use a yarn gauge.
that is machine washable and Double pointed needles usually
very durable, stich as Regia 4- come in a set of 5 needles.
(adig made of 75% virgin wool and Divide the stitches evenly
25% polyamide, which we have lIsed onto 4 needles. Change
here. This yarn is about 210m (231 rounds at the center in the
yds) per 50 g (PII 0') and is done on back: The heel is worked
size 2 double pointed needles. Cuff
I
Turn
Size calculation
Tolallength of foot in inches
Sblches to cast on
5.8
44
8.2
48
8.8
48
24
7.2
52
7.8
52
26
8..
58
8.8
58
28
9..
60
30
10
60
10.6
64
32
11
64
32
.
11.4 12
7Z
SblChes lor heel width
20
Z4
22 22
26
Z4 24
28
Z6 Z6 28
30
28 30 30
34
32
'"
34
Stitches tor turn 7/817 81818 81818 8/10/8 8110/8 9/1019 9/1019 10/10/10 10/10/10 10/12110 10/12/10 11/12/11 12112112
Length 011001 from gussel 2.6 2.6 3.. 3.6 4.2 4.6 5 5.. 6 6.2 6.6 6.6
pickup to loe 7.'
204
Socks
The cast-on stitches are divided up Great for knee-high socks: A The kitchener rib method of
among the 4 needles of the set. rubber band can be inserted into casting on is also very good for
The round starts in the center, at the band worked in stockinette socks (see also page 207).
the back, between the first and stitch.
fourth needle.
205
Basic Patterns
For a reinforced heel, every other Heel and turn are worked with the For the gusset, pick stitches up
stitch on the right side of the work first and fourth needles on the from the heel edges, then continue
is slipped rather than worked. right and wrong side of the work. working in rounds.
Heel Continue working back and forth: stitches on the second and third
In the first row, slip the last stitch on needles. For the fourth needle, fitst
The heel and [Urn are worked with the second needle knitwise, knit the increase 1 stitch in the corner, knit
the first and fourth needles. Tempo, first stitch on the third needle, and twisted, thcn pick up I stitch every
rarily puc aside the stitches on the pass the slipped stitch over. Turn the other row along the heel edge. Then
second and third needle. The heel work. In the second row (\XIS). slip work the remaining 5 stitches. There
and turn will wear bencT if you add a the first stitch purlwise, purl the are now more stitches on the first
reinforcement yarn. following stitches, then purl the last and fourth needles (20, in this case),
The heel is worked in stockinette stitch on the second needle together which will be reduced again as the
stitch. If yOll wish, you can work the with the first stitch on the third gusset decreases are made.
first and last 2 or 3 stitches in garter needle. Turn the work. In the third Now work 1 round using all the
stitch. You can also work the [Urn row, slip the first stitch purlwise, stitches. The stitches on the first and
and heel on only 2 needles. work a single decrease over the last fourth needles should always be
The heel length proportion is stitch on the needle and the first worked in stockinette stitch, while
always 2 rows less than the number stitch of the third needle. Keep the stitches on the second and third
of stitches. For example, if you have repeating Rows 2 and 3 until all the needles can be worked in a pattern.
30 stitches, you will have 28 rows. stitches on the first and third needles In the next TOW, knit the second
An additionally reinforced heel is have been used up. Put the and third to last stitches on the first
worked with slipped stitches. On the remaining stitches (here there are needle together for thc decreases,
right side of the work, alternately 10) onto 2 needles, at 5 stitches each then knit the last stitch. On the
knit I stitch and slip I stitch on the fourth and first needles. fourth needle, knit the first stitch,
purl wise. On the wrong side of the slip the second stitch knitwisc, knit
work, purl all the stitches. Gusset the third stitch, and pass the slipped
stitch over. Then work 2 rounds
Turn Knit the stitches on the fourth and without decreasing. Repeat these 3
first needles, then pick up I stitch rows until the original number of
For the turn, the heel stitches are every other rowan the heel edge (in stitches (here it is 15) on the first
divided evenly onto 3 needles. For the example, 28 rows were worked, and fourth needles has been reached
example. if you have 30 stitches, put so 14 stitches will be picked up). To again. \Vork the desired length of the
10 stitches on each needle. You can prevent a hole from forming between fOOL
also leave all the stitches on I nee~ the heel and the cuff, increase I
die, bur you won't work the outer stitch knit twisted alit of the horizon~
stitches. If the number of stitches is tal thread in the corner between the
not divisible by 3, put the extra edge of the heel anel the cuff (15
stitches on the center needle. stitches in total). Then work the
206
Socks
Even nicer when you use ~l smaller needle size; other- Then repeat the first round once
cast on in kitchener wise. the ribbing edge becomes more. Now continue in the
lOa tight. In the first row, the ribbing pattern.
rib
stitches are then divided up If you start with a row of
Just as with neckbands, ribbing among the 4 needles. Alternately crocheted chain stitches in a
for gloves, miuens, or socks can knit] stitch and slip the next different color, you already
be stalled by casting on in kitch-- stitch purlwise. Each time you divide the stitches up alllong the
ener rib (page 22). You can have worked one-fourth of the 4 needles in the first row:
either stan with a chain of stitches, stan a new needle. Alternately knit 1 stitch out of
crochet stitches in a contrasting lOW work in rounds. In the the horizontal back pan of a
yarn, or you can stall with the first round, all the knit stitches .chain stitch, and work 1 yarn
yarn you are going to use. are slipped purlwise, all the purl over. Then continue with the
Using the aculal yarn, you stitches are purled. In the second actual yarn.
cast on the required number of round, the knit stitches are knit
stitches on 1 needle. Here, don't and the purl stitches are slipped.
207
Gloves and Mittens
Ribbed Cuff
J
ust like socks. gloves should be the increases before and after the
knit relatively tightly. These third to last stitch.
gloves were worked in pure Cast on 48 st with si:e 3 needles (see
virgin wool of approximately 125 111 also casting on in kirchener rib, page Thumb Fourchette
(137\1\ yds)/50 g (J'Ii oz), on size 4 207) and divide the stitches evenly
double pointed needles. The gauge is among the 4 needles of the set (12 st Above the thumb stitch on the stitch
26 stitches and 38 rows for a 4" per needle). Work the cuff to the holder, cast on a fourchette of 7
square. desired length. However, it should be stitches. End the round and work
For the right glove, work the palm at least 2'h" long. If you tend to knit another round over all the stitches.
with the first and second needles, the ribbing very tightly, or if you want to In the next round, work decreases
back of the hand with the third and turn the cuff over, you can also cast over the 7~st fourchette as follows:
fourth needles. Reverse this for the on a few stitches more and knit 2 Slip the nrst fourchette stitch
left glove. Since all the fingers are stitches together several times in the knitwisc, knit the second fourchette
worked symmetrically, only the first TOW of stockinette stitch. stitch, and pass the slipped stitch
position of the thumb has to be Then continue in stockinette stitch over. Knit the next 3 stitches and
changed. Everything else is worked on size 4 needles. knit the last 2 stitches together. In
the same way. the next round, repeat the decreases.
Thumb Gusset Then work 1 round without de-
creases and in the next round, slip
5/617/8 4/5/617 5/617/B 6171819
After 2 rounds, start with the the nrst of the last 3 fourchette
Pinkie increases for the thumb gusset. On stitches knitwise, knit the next 2
linger
the first needle, knit 2 stitches. stitches together, and pass the slipped
516mB 4/516/7 516mB 6mB/9 Before and after the third stitch, inc stitch over. Now you have the
1 stitch knit twisted aU[ of the original 12 st on the first needle
The gloves are described in size 7.
All information for sizes 6, 7, 8, horizontal r1uead. Then work 3 again.
and 9 Ifor yarns with a gauge of 26 rounds without increasing. In the Continue evenly up [Q the little
stitches and 38 rows = 4") is con- fourth round, inc I stitch on both finger.
tained in the table. sides of the increased stitch. Repeat
these increases every fourth
round 4 more times (l3
Glove size 6 7 B 9
stitches for the thumb
Hal"ld circumference in inches '.8 7.' 8.8 9.'
gusset). After the last round
Stitches to casl OIl 4. 48 56 64
of increasing, work another 3
Stitches lor thumb gusset 13 13 15 17
round, then put the 13
Stitches lol' thumb fourchene 7 7 9 9
thumb stitches onto a stitch
Length of pinkie finger 2 2.4 2.8 3.2
holder.
LlHlgth ot ring linger 24 2.' 3.2 3.' For the left glove, work to
length 01 middle finger 2.' 3 3.4 3.8
within 3 stitches before the
Length 01 forefinger 2.4 2.8 3.2 3.' end of the fourth needle for
Length 01 thumb 2 2.2 2.4 2.' the thumb gusset, then work
208
Gloves and Mittens
Middle Finger
Put the first 7 stitches from the first
needle and the last 7 stitches from
the fourth needle on a stitch holder
for the forefinger.
Knit the 6 stitches on the back of
Pinkie Finger the glove, knit 3 stitches from the
\Vhen the glove is long enough for fourchette of the ring finger, knit the Mittens
the pinkie finger, work CO within 6 next 6 stitches on the palm, and cast Mittens are starred just
stitches from the end of the second on 3 stitches for the next fourchette. like gloves. After the
needle. Now work the last 6 stitches Divide these 18 stitches among 3 thumb fourchette, continue
on the second needle and the first 6 needles and end the middle finger working over the 48 stitches
stitches on the third needle on extra like the pinkie finger. to the end of the pinkie finger. Then
needle with a new piece of yarn. Cast start the decreases for the banded tip.
on 3 stitches as the fourchette from Forefinger For the banded tip, knit I stitch on
the back of the glove to the palm. Knit 3 stitches from the fourchette, the first needle, slip the second stitch
Divide these 15 stitches among 3 then knit the remaining 14 stitches. knitwise, knit the third stitch, and
needles,S stitches on each, and work Divide these 17 stitches among 3 pass the second stitch over it. Work to
in the round in stockinette stitch. needles (5/6/6 stitches), and finish within 3 stitches before the end of the
\Vhen the finger is about 2" long, try the forefinger like the other fingers. second needle, then knit 2 stitches
the glove on. ScaTring about Ih" before together and knit the last stitch. \Vork
the fingertip, knit the last 2 stitches on Thumb the decrease on the third needle as on
each needle together. Work these In addition to the 13 thumb stitches the first needle, and on the fourth
decreases umil only 6 stitches are left from the stitch holder, knit another 7 needle as on the second needle.
in total. Cut off the yarn and draw the stitches from the fourchette. To pre- Repeat these decreases every other
6 stitches together with the yarn. vent a hole from forming, knit the round until only half the stitches are
Now, lIsing the previous yarn, work first and last stitches twisted from the left on the needle, then work the
3 stitches out of the fourchette, then horizontal thread next to the thumb decreases in every round until only 8
work about 3 rounds over all the stitch. Divide these 20 stitches stitches in totel! are left.
stitches to the ring finger. among 3 needles (61717 stitches). Place the remaining stitches of the
Knit in round over all the stitches. right band flat onto those of the left
Ring Finger When the thumb is 2" long, work the band and sew them together using
\Vork to within 5 stitches from the tip as for the other fingers. grafting stitch.
end of the second needle. \Vith a new
piece of yarn, work the last 5 stitches
on the second needle, the 3 stitches TIP
of the fourchette, and the first 5 Sinee the last 6 stitches of
stitches on the third needle on extra the fingertips are drawn
needle with a new piece of yam. Cast together using the working
on 3 stitches as the next fourchette. yarn, the stitches should not
Divide these 16 stitches among 3 be too large. For this reason,
needles, (5/5/6 stitches), and work in work the last round of
decreases with a needle one
round in srockinette stitch for about
size smaller than that used
2'(,". Slip the last stitch from the
for the other rounds.
second and third needles onto the
first and fourth needles, respectively.
209
Stitch Patterns
A A A A A A A A A A A A 39
A A A A A A A A A A A A 37
A A A A -A A A A A-A A A 35
A A A A A A A A A A A A 33
A A A A A A A A A A A A 31
A A A A A A A A A A A A 29
A A A A A A A A A A A A 27
A A A A A A A A A A A A 25
A A A A A A A A A A A A 23
A A A A A A A A A A A A 21
A A A A A A A A A A A A 19
A A A A A A A A A A A A 17
A A A A A A A A A A A A 15
A A A A A A A A 13
A A A A A A A A 11
A A A A A A A A 9
A A A A A A A A 7
A A A A A A A A 5
A A A A -A A A A- A A A A 3
A A A A A A A A A A A A 1 On WS, work all stitches as they lie.
26-st repeat Repeat Rows 1 to 40.
212
Shaker Knitting
v v VXv v v v v v 41
LlV v v+ v v v v v 39
VLlV v vx v v v v v 37
v LlV v v+ v v v v 35
v v VLJV v vxv v v v 33
v v v LlV v v+ v v v 31
v v v VLlV v Vxv v v 29
v v v v LlV v v+ v v 27
v v v v VLl v v Vxv v 25
v v v v v LlV v v+ v 23
v v v v vxv v VLJV 21
v v v v +v v VLl 19
v v v VX v v VLlV 17
v v v +v v VLl v 15
v v vxv V VLlV v 13
v v v +v v VLl v v v 11
v v vxv v VLJV v v v 9
v v +v v VLJ v v v v 7
v vxv v VLl v v v v v 5
v +v v VLl v v v v v 3
I I I I I I I I 1
18-5t repeal
v v v v v v v V v 21
v v v +v+ v v V.LI 19
.LI v V vxvxv v V.LI 17
V.LI V V +v+ v V.LIV 15
v A V VXVXV v .LI v 13
v VLl v +v+ V L:lV v 11
v v A VXVXv A V v 9
v V VA +V+ AV v v 7
v v V AXVXA V v V 5
v v v v v v v 3
I I I I I I I 1
20-st repeat
v v
LI v LJ v v VX
v 33
+ v v
LlV V VLl V V + 31
v v LI v v v LI v vx 29
+ v LJV v v V VLl V + 27
v LJ v v v v v LJ vx 25
+ LlV v v v v V VLl + 23
LI v v v v v v v LlX 21
v v v v v v v 19
LI v v VX Vxv v v LI 17
VLl v v +v+ v v LlV 15
v LJ v VX vxv v LJ v 13
v VLJ v +v+ v LlV v 11
v v LI VX Vxv LI v v 9
v V VLl +v+ LlV v v 7
v v v LlX VXLI V V v 5
v v v v v v-v- 3
I I I I I I I 1
20-st repeat
213
Cables
15
1111
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
16-5t repeat
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
8-5t repeat
27
25
- 23
21
- 19
17
15
-
--
13
11
9
--- 7
5
3
- - 1
20-st pattern
On WS, work all stitches as they lie.
After first 2 rows, repeat Rows 3 to 28.
I I ! I J I I = put 2 st on 1 cable needle in back, 2 st on
second cable needle in back, k2, purl the 2
purl st on the second cable needle and
knit the 2 st on the first cable needle.
t = put 2 st on 1 cable needle in front, 2 st on
second cable needle in front, k2, purl the
2 purl st on the second cable needle and
knit the 2 st on the first cable needle.
214
Cables
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
34·5t repeat
mmwgi
~ 21-strepeat
24 ---- - - ---
- - - 23
22 --- -- -- - 21
20 ---- - - ---
18
- - - 19
16
- - - 17
In this pattern,
15
14 - --- ---- - 13
the stitches on
RS and WS
12
- --- -- -
--- rows are
II
10 -- shown the
- ---- 9 way they
8 --
6
----
- - --- ---- - - --- 7
5
appear on the
right side of
4 ---- - - the work.
- - - 3
Repeat Rows 1
2
- - - to 24.
15-st paUern
215
Stitch Patterns
~ _ _~Li
On WS, work all stitches as they lie.
Repeat Rows 1 to 8.
~ ~1
I- 8-51 cable - 6-51 cable ... 8-51 cable - Pattern on page 132.
~~~I~~
On WS, work all stitches as they lie.
Repeat Rows 1 to 6.
~ 16-sleable '6-51 cable
Pattern on page 135.
111I.mllllll~,
On WS, work all stitches as they lie.
Repeat Rows 1 to 12.
216
Cables
17
15 Repeat Rows 1 to 20.
13
11
9 Pattern on page 132.
7
5
3
1
8-5t cable 6-5t cable 8-st cable
-7
-5
-3
-1
6-5t repeal
217
Openwork Patterns
o 0 19
o ~ 0 17
o ~ 0 15
o ~ 0 13
o ~ 0 11
~ 0 9
o ~ 0 7
~ 0 5
~ 0 3
II II II II II II II II II II II I II 11 It 1
14-5t repeat
o ~o~ 3
... 0 ... 0 1
10-5t repeat
2 ... 0 I
I-OLlI
5-st rep
218
Openwork Patterns
011110°1111°'<23
1
... II 0 0 II l' II 0 0 II .11III 21
.... II II 0 0 II II II II 0 0 II II ... 19
.. II II II 0 0 It II 111' n 11 II 0 0 II II II .. 17
... II II II no 0 II II II 111' II II II II a 0 II II II II 15
... II II II II II 0 II n II II II l' II II II II II 0 II II II 11 II 13
a a a 11
all 110 all 110 9
01111 11110 01111 11110 7
ounn 1111110 0111111 1111110 5
011111111 111111110 011111111 111111110 3
01111111111 11111111110 Ollnnllil 11111111110 1
14-51 repeat
...
°°
0 ........ 0
8-51 repeat
...0
3
1
5
jjo;S.<B~..~ofl ~
7-st rep
219
Stitch Patterns
On WS, work all stitches as they lie, purl the yarn overs, and
knit the garter stitches.
After the first 2 rows, repeat Rows 3 to 30.
~ 00 00 ~ 21
~
~ 00 00 ~
~ 19
17
~
~
o~
o~ 0000 ~o
~o
~
~ 15
13
~
~ 00 00 ...
o~- ~o ~ 11
9
~
0000
~
~ ~
~
~ 7
5
3
1
23-5t repeat
On WS, work all stitches as they lie, purl the yarn overs.
Repeat Rows 1 to 22.
1~~~I~illllllll~tlt~135
33
31
29
o OLl 0-)0 LlO OLl 27
25
IILll0i~i~0ILl~~-10]~~~jO]~iLlIOil~101Ll]
.dO O.d 0... ~o ..10 OLl 21
.£10 .d 0... ~O.dO O.c::l 19
17
15
23
13
11
o
0 ... ~O.dO
LlO OLl 0
0.:::1 0 ... ~o
9
7
5
0... ~o .dO 0..1 0... ~o 3
0... ~o AD 0.:::1 0... ~o 1
20-5t repeat
On WS, work all stitches as they lie, purl the yarn overs.
Repeat Rows 1 to 36.
220
Openwork Patterns
.. 0 0 a l' 0 0 o 0 • 23
.. 0 0 o 0 l' 0 0 o 0 • 21
.. 0 0 o 0 0 0 o 0 • 19
.. 0 0 o 0 0 0 o 0 ~ 17
.. 0 0 001' 0 0 o 0 • 15
.. 0 0 a 01"0 0 o o. 13
.. 0 0 o 01'0 0 o 0 Irrrrr. 11
.. 0 0 001' 0 a o 0 Irrrrr. 9
.. 0 0 o 0 l' 0 0 o 0 7
.. 0 0 o 0 l' 0 0 o 0 5
.. 0 0 o 0 0 0 o
0 3
.. 0 0 o 0 0 o a 1
18-st repeat
.. 0 3
0.. 1
5-st rep
liI"ol~
On WS, pu rl all stitches
and yarn overs.
(3:Eo ~ 1 Repeat Rows 1 to 4.
5-s1 rep
Openwork stripe on
page 137.
~~~~~6~~~6~~ :
:8 [I-I-IOII-I-II-I-j-IO
I I - I I 3
in the pattern chart the way they are
worked.
Repeat Rows 1 to 8.
2 ------------
I I I I I 1 1 I I I 1 I 1
1±±jQl = slip 1 st knitwise, knit the
4-5t rep next 3 st, and pass the
slipped st over.
221
Twisted Stitches
0 0 0 27
0 0 0 0 0 0 25
0 0 0 00 0 0 23
0 0 0 0 0 0 21
0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 19
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17
0 0 0 0 0 -0 15
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 13
0 0 0 0 0 0 11
0 0 0 0 0 0 9
0 0 0 0 0 7
0 0 0 0 0 5
0 0 00 0 0 0 3
0 0 0 0 0 0 1
21-s1 repeat
o
~ o 0 0 0 35
~ 00 0 0 33
o ~ o 0 31
-0-0 ... 00 0 29
o 0 ~ e 0 27
<> <> Ollrrr.. 00 25
<> <> <> Irrrrr. e 23
000 21
000 19
o 0 0 0 ... 17
<> <> 00 ... 0 15
o 0 e ... 0 13
o 00 ... 0 0 11
o ... 0 0 9
00 ~o <> <> 7
.... <> <> <> 5
000 3
o 0 1
17-5t repeat
222
Twisted Stitches
31
0 0 29
0 0 27
0 0 25
0 0 0 23
0 0 21
0 0 0 0 19
0 0 0 0 17
0 0 0 15
0 0 0 13
0 0- 0 11
9
7
0 0 5
0 0 3
0 0 1
B-s t repeat
11~!-!Oi-!Oi-!O'-!O;-!OI'I'I'"!'I'!'I'!'I'~I
Row 45-46
I I I I I r I I I 10-0-0-0-0- Row 17-44
Row 47·60
Row 15-16
- - 0 - 0 - 0 - 0 - 0 - 0 I I I I I I I I I 1 - - Row 1·14
21-5t cable
I"! ! I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I, I
= put 10 st behind the work on cable needle, work 10
st in ribbing pattern, then knit st from cable needle.
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1,1
= put 11 st behind the work on cable needle, k10, then
work st from cable needle in ribbing pattern.
223
Stitch Patterns
224
Twisted Stitches
iliiO~Oi~0~33
<> 0 ¢ <> <> 31 needle and knit the second st twisted.
o 0 0 29
= put 1 st in front of work on cable
o0 00 0 27
o 0 25 needle, k1 twisted, pl, then knit
o 0 0 23
the st from cable needle twisted.
000 o 00
000 o o 0 19
o 0 o o o 0 17 = put 1 st in front of work on cable
<> <> 00 o o 0 15 needle, kl twisted, then knit the st
000 o o o 0 13
from cable needle twisted.
o 0 0 o o o 11
o 0 o o o 9
000 o o 7 = put 1 st behind work on cable
o 0 o o 5 needle, kl twisted, then knit the st
00 0 o 3
from cable needle twisted.
o o 1
9·st repeat
Pattern on page 139.
- 0 - 0 - 19
0-0 0-0-0-0-0-0-0-17
0-0-0 0 0 0 0 0 0 15
o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0-0-13
--0-0-0-0--0-0-0-0 0 11
-0-0-0-0--0-0-0-0 9
-0-0-0-0 0 0 0 0 0 7
-0-0-0 0 0 0 0 0 5
o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0-0 3
-0-0-0 0--0-0-0-0 1
20-5t repeat
225
Leaf Patterns
~ O~OAO~O~O~O 31
OAOAO~AO~O~O ~
0.0IIII0.0IIII0 ~A o~o~o V
0 .... 0 .... 0 0 ... 0 ... 0 25
0 0 0 0 0.0IIII 23
o 0 0 A 0 0 A 21
0 0 0 0 0... 19
0 0 0 0 0... 17
.... 0 0 0 0 ... 0 ... 15
... 0 ... 0 0... ...0 ... 0 .... 0 13
.... 0 ... 0 ... 0... ...0 ... 0 .... 0 11
... 0 ... 0 ... 0 ...... 0 .. 0 ... 0 9
... 0.0IIII0.0IIII0 0 0 0 7
... 0 .. 0 .. 0 0 0 0 5
... 0.0IIII0.0IIII0 0 0 0 3
... 0 .. 0 ... 0 0 0 0 1
19-5t repeat
43
41
39
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
23
o o 0 21
o o 0 19
o o 0 17
o ---0 0 15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
226
Leaf Patterns
•••
0 0 ... 0 0 .. 0 .. 0 l' 0.0lil0 0 0 .. 0 .. 0
repeat Rows 33 and 34.
••
0
0
OAO"'O
0
0
0.0lil0
0 ... 0
0.0lil0
0 ... 0
0 .. 0
0 .. 0
0 .. 0 .. 0
0 .. 0
0 .. 0
0
0
0
0
l'
l'
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0 .. 0 .. 0
0 .. 0 .. 0
0 ... 0 ... 0
0 .. 0 .. 0
0 .. 0 ... 0
~
~
~
~
191715
23
21
0-0- 0--0-00
0 0--
0- 0 5 -0-0 97
o --
0--
00-- -0 --
-0 0 --0
3
1
18-st repeat
On WS, work all stitches as they lie and purl all yarn overs.
Repeat Rows 1 to 24.
227
Aran Isle Patterns
~ = bobble; k5 out of
/\
/\
/\
/\
7
5 • • 9 the st, work 5 rows
/\
/\
/\
/\
3
1 • • 7 garter stitch over
these sl, then k5
Pattern C - 25 st 5
tog, twisted.
1\ /\ /\ 7 3
/\ /\ /\ 5
/\ /\ /\ 3
/\ /\ /\ 1 Pattern B = 16 51
Pattern A - 25 51
Work pattern A, pattern B, and pattern C
neXlto one another widthwise. Only the
rows on RS are shown for patterns A and C.
On WS, work stitches as they lie.
For patterns A and C, repeat Rows 1 to 8. For
pattern B, repeat Rows 1 to 10.
• --. 21
19
On WS, work
all stitches as
17 they lie.
15
13 Repeat Rows 1
11 to 24.
9
7
5
3
1
28-5t pattern
228
Aran Isle Patterns
•• ••
•• •• ••
•• 49
47
On WS, work all stitches
as they lie.
45
43 After the first 46 rows,
41 repeat Rows 47 to 50.
39
37
35
33 1"bkF1 = work 4 st from 1 st:
31 k1, kl twisted, k1,
29
27 and kl twisted.
25
23
21
19
LJ?thl = p4 tog.
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
•• ••
•• •• ••
•• 3
1
38-st repeat
229
Slipped Stitches
On WS, purl
29 all stitches.
27
25 Repeat Rows
23 1 to 32.
21
15
19
17
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
18-5t repeat
1 ~11111-15
On WS, work all stitches
- - 13 as they lie.
---1i Repeat Rows 1 to 6.
- 3
1
8-st repeat
230
Slipped Stitches
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
14-5t repeat
231
Textured Patterns
8-5t repeat
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
18·51 repeat
232
Textured Patterns
33
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
16-st repeat
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
• 1
10-5t repeat
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
12-st repeat
233
Jacquard Patterns
39
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
"
22
23
21
I.
20
16
19
17
15
14
13
12
11
10
•
,• 3
4ll-st repeal
•
,•
16-S1 lepeal
Repeat Rows 1 to 20.
234
Jacquard Patterns
,. 15
13
12
11
10
9
8
6
,
• 3
2
12-s1 repeal
19
11
16
,. 15
13
12
II
10
9
7
22·51 repeal
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
2S
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
18
I'
I'
13
12
11
I'
9
8
7
6
,
•
2
3
235
Stitch Patterns
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
,• 7
5
3
13'51 rOptlal
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
,• 7
5
4
3
2
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
"14 15
13
12
11
1O
9
,• 7
4
2
24'51 repeal
236
Symbols and Abbreviations
237
Index
Abbreviations 237 Correcting color changes Holding the yarn (2 colors) 143
Accessories 8 (imarsia) 147 Honeycomb cable 132
Armhole facings 65 Crew neck 78
Increasing 36
open 78
Band, seed stitch 55 after ribbing 36
Crochet to finish edges 61
Bands 54 in openwork patterns (sleeves) 192
Crochet slip stitches 61,63,73, 169
double 58 knitting on 21
Crocheted facings 73
knit on new 187 symmetrical 38,40
Crocheting on bunon loops 104
tips 186 twisted 38
Crossing yarn at color changes 146
2-color 56 with yarn over 40
with mitered corner 59 Instructions for sweaters 196
Decorative details 164-175
Basic patterns 30 lntarsia 146
Decreasing 32
Basic techniques 16-51 Invisible seam stitch 112
double decreases 35
Blocking 121
single decreases 33 Jacquard patterns 142
Bobbles, crocheted 166
Double-face 160
Bobbles, knit 167 Kitchener rib
Double facings 64
Box pattern 30 casting off in 46
Double neckbands 58
Brioche stitch 129 casting on in 22
Double pickup 86
Buttonholes 69, 100 Knit stitches 29
Double shaker knitting 125
horizontal 102 Knitted casting on 21,36
2-color 125
round 100 Knitted·on facings 60
Dropped stitches 188
vertical 101 Knitting
with contrast yarn 103 needles 8
Embroidery 168
working in afterwards 103 patterns 210
duplicate stitch 168
Buttons, knitted 101 Knitting together, twisted 33,34
french knot 171
Cable patterns 132 lazy daisy 171 Materials 8-15
with cable needles 133 on organza 170 Mittens 209
without cable needles 134 ourline stitch 170
Necklines 76
Cardigan with cable pattern 200 satin stitch 171
cast off in kitchener rib 49
Caring for your finished knit 15 facing, sewn on 72
Casting off 42 Entrelac pattern 156
round 76
fixing the edge 45,63 square 79
in kitchener rib 46 Facings 60
crocheted 73 Needle gauge 8
with crochet 42
Casting on 18 double 64 Open casting on 20
double 19 for armholes 65 Openwork patterns 136
in kitchener rib 22, 160,207 knitted on 60
Paper patterns 179
open 20, 161 knitted with the piece, double 66
basic patterns 179,180
with double bottom yarn 19 knitted with the piece, single 68
dolman sleeve 181
wi th one need Ie 18 sewn on 70
kimono 181
Chain selvedge stitch 27 with mitered corner 59
raglan 181
Collars 78,84,88 Fan-shaped cables 135
shoulder yoke 180, 181
Color changes for stripes in
Faux shaker knitting 128
Pass slipped stitch over 33
reverse stockinette stitch 31 Finishing 110--126
Pattern charrs, following 190
Contrast piping 153 Fringes 175
Perfect details 52-109
pattern variations 154 Gloves and mittens 208-209 Pickup, double 86
Converting sizes and yarns 182 Grafting 114 Picot edge 58
238
Index
239