Beach formation

Beaches are the result of wave action by which waves or currents move sand or
other loose sediments of which the beach is made as these particles are held
in suspension. Alternatively, sand may be moved by saltation (a bouncing
movement of large particles). Beach materials come from erosion of rocks
offshore, as well as from headland erosion and slumpingproducing deposits
of scree. A coral reef offshore is a significant source of sand particles. Some
species of fish that feed on algae attached to coral outcrops and rocks can create
substantial quantities of sand particles over their lifetime as they nibble during
feeding, digesting the organic matter, and discarding the rock and coral particles
which pass through their digestive tracts.

The composition of the beach depends upon the nature and quantity
of sediments upstream of the beach, and the speed of flow and turbidity of water
and wind. Sediments are moved by moving water and wind according to their
particle size and state of compaction. Particles tend to settle and compact in still
water. Once compacted, they are more resistant to erosion. Established
vegetation (especially species with complex network root systems) will resist
erosion by slowing the fluid flow at the surface layer. When affected by moving
water or wind, particles that are eroded and held in suspension will increase the
erosive power of the fluid that holds them by increasing the average density,
viscosity and volume of the moving fluid.
Coastlines facing very energetic wind and wave systems will tend to hold only
large rocks as smaller particles will be held in suspension in the turbid water
column and carried to calmer areas by longshore currents and tides. Coastlines
that are protected from waves and winds will tend to allow finer sediments such
as clay and mud to precipitate creating mud flats and mangrove forests. The
shape of a beach depends on whether the waves are constructive or destructive,
and whether the material is sand or shingle. Waves are constructive if the period
between their wave crestsis long enough for the breaking water to recede and
the sediment to settle before the succeeding wave arrives and breaks.
Fine sediment transported from lower down the beach profile will compact if
the receding water percolates or soaks into the beach. Compacted sediment is
more resistant to movement by turbulent water from succeeding waves.
Conversely, waves are destructive if the period between the wave crests is short.
Sediment that remains in suspension when the following wave crest arrives will
not be able to settle and compact and will be more susceptible to erosion
by longshore currents and receding tides. The nature of sediments found on a
beach tends to indicate the energy of the waves and wind in the locality.
Constructive waves move material up the beach while destructive waves move
the material down the beach. During seasons when destructive waves are
prevalent, the shallows will carry an increased load of sediment and organic
matter in suspension. On sandy beaches, the turbulent backwash of destructive
waves removes material forming a gently sloping beach. On pebble and shingle
beaches the swash is dissipated more quickly because the large particle size
allows greater percolation, thereby reducing the power of the backwash, and the
beach remains steep. Compacted fine sediments will form a smooth beach
surface that resists wind and water erosion.
During hot calm seasons, a crust may form on the surface of ocean beaches as
the heat of the sun evaporates the water leaving the salt
which crystallises around the sand particles. This crust forms an additional
protective layer that resists wind erosion unless disturbed by animals, or
dissolved by the advancing tide. Cusps and horns form where incoming waves
divide, depositing sand as horns and scouring out sand to form cusps. This
forms the uneven face on some sand shorelines. White sand beaches look white
because the quartz or eroded limestone in the sand reflects or scatters sunlight
without absorbing other colors.
Sand colors
The composition of the sand may vary depending on the local minerals and
geology. Some of the types of sand that can be found in beaches around the
world are:

 White sand: Mostly made of quartz and limestone, it can also contain bits of
other minerals like feldspar.[13] [14]
 Light-colored sand: This sand gets its color from quartz and iron and it's
common in Southern Europe. [14]
 Tropical white sand: On tropical islands, the sand is composed of calcium
carbonate from the shells and skeletons of marine organisms,
like corals and mollusks.[13]
 Pink coral sand: Like the above, is composed of calcium carbonate and gets
its pink hue from fragments of coral.[13][15] Bermuda's beaches are famous for
this type of sand.
 Black sand: Black sand is composed of volcanic rock,
like basalt and obsidian, which give it its gray-black
color.[15][14] Hawaii's Punaluu Beach and Fuerteventura's Ajuy beach are
examples of this type of sand.
 Green sand: In this kind of sand, the mineral olivine has been separated from
other volcanic fragments by erosive forces.[13] A famous example is
Hawaii's Papakolea Beach, whose sand also contains basalt and coral
fragments.