ASSIGNMENT

OF
MERCHANDIZING

TOPIC: TEXTILE PROCESSES

NAME: SYED ASIM NAJAM

CLASS: BS-T VIII

SUBMITTED TO: SIR KAISER

 YARN MANUFACTURING
YARN COUNT:
The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating the
quantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarn
in relation to the weight.
Commonly used Yarn Counts:
Count Fiber
840 Cotton, spun silk, rayon and acetate
300 Wool (cut system)
560 Worsted wool (spun system)
1600 Wool (run system)
300 Linen, hemp, jute and ramie

STAPLE LENGTH:
The length of the individual fibers of cotton. The length of the fibers affects the quality of the fabric
that is made from it. The longer being the higher quality yarn characterized in a softer more
lustrous fiber and the shorter being lower quality or coarser.

WEAVING

Weaving :Weaving is the most common method used for producing fabrics. The process is
carried out of two sets of threads, which interlaces lengthwise yarns (warp yarns) with widthwise
ones (weft or filling yarns).

Plain: In the plain weave the woof thread runs under and over the warp, and the warp threads
run over and under the next woof threads.
Basket: In order to produce this effect, this cloth cannot be woven tightly. It leaves the threads
quite loose
Cross Weave: In this type of weave, extra warp threads are added to the regular plain weave
and they are pulled from one side to the other
Lappet: This is a very interesting type of weave. By means of a small mechanical device on the
loom, dots or figures are woven into the material.
Twill: Where durability and strength are desired, the twill weave is employed.
Satin: Satin Weave has more threads on the surface than any other weave. It is used in fabrics of
high luster.
Figure: The most important figure weave is damask.
Linen: A fabric woven with fiber of flax plant.
Khaki: A sturdy cloth of a yellowish brown color especially used for military.

KNITTING
Knitting: In knitting fabric is formed through interlocking series of yarn loops. Rows of stitches
are formed so that each row hangs on the row behind it, usually using sophisticated, high-speed
machinery.
Double knit — a knit fabric similar to jersey that is made with two sets of needles producing a double
thickness joined by interlocking stitches
 Jersey — a slightly elastic machine-knit fabric
 Stockinet, stockinette — knit used especially for infants' wear and undergarments

 Tricot — a knitted fabric or one resembling knitting

Warp knitting: Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length
of the fabric.
 DYEING

Reactive dye: Reactive dye - a dye which attaches to the fiber by forming a covalent bond; also
called fibre reactive dye. Reactive dyes are known for their bright colors and very good to
excellent lightfastness and washfastness, though poor resistance to chlorine bleach. There are
several broad classes of reactive dyes. Most are intended for cellulose fiber.
Pigment: Pigment - a colored substance that is insoluble in water, usually in the form of a fine
powder Pigments are used to color many types of paint, including some textile paints, and almost
all “inks” used for screen printing (“silkscreen” printing).
Disperse dye: Disperse dye - a dye that is almost totally insoluble in water. Disperse dyes exist
in the dye bath as a suspension or dispersion of microscopic particles, with only a tiny amount in
true solution at any time. They are the only dyes that are effective for “normal” polyester.
Garment dye: Garment dye is dye used to color garments. It is used in the garment dyeing
process, in which finished garments are colored with the use of dye. In the garment industry,
garment dyeing is highly flexible and useful type of dyeing. This process can be used to create
custom garments for specific events, and also to create stock to respond to demands for
particular colors and styles.
Vat Dyes: The term vat dyes relates to dyes of any chemical class that are applied by the vat
process. The dyes are insoluble in water and cannot be used directly for dyeing, but on reduction
to a leuco form they become soluble in presence of an alkali and acquire affinity for cellulosic
fibers.
Sulfur dyes: Sulfur dyes are the most commonly used dyes manufactured for cotton in terms of
volume. They are cheap, generally have good wash-fastness and are easy to apply. The general
disadvantage of the Sulphur dyes that they produce dull shades and lack a red. The main
advantage lays in their cheapness, ease of application and good wash-fastness.The use of
Sulphur dyes is restricted to dull brown, Khaki and Navy shades

PRINTING
Rotary screen printing
Rotary screen printing involves a series of revolving screens, each with revolving screens, each
with a stationary squeegee inside which forces the print paste onto the fabric. Twenty or more
colours can be printed at the same time. The process is much quicker and more efficient than flat
screen printing. Since the 1970s it has grown to dominate the textile printing market.

Reactive dye printing

Reactive dye printing is a method of printing a dye or wax by using mixes there of to create
colors. With a binder and a heat-activated printing additive, images can be permanently bonded
to the substrate (typically textiles, but can include cellulose, fibers, polyester, and even proteins).
These reactions are generally heat-activated.
TABLE PRINTING:
Flock Printing
A third printing technique is known as flock printing. Here an adhesive is printed in a design on
the fabric. Next, the fabric is covered with cut fiber known as flock. The fiber is then embedded in
the adhesive by one of various techniques such as compressed air, the shaking process, or the
electrostatic process. Once the fiber is embedded in the resin, the resin is cured to firmly fix the
fiber. This technique produces a three-dimensional pile surface effect in a specific design on the
fabric.

Pigments
Pigments are widely used in textile printing, with about 45% of all textile prints produced using
pigments. Unlike dyes, they do not directly associate with the textile fibres but are fixed to the
textile with a so-called binding agent. The binding agent is usually a copolymer which is
incorporated into the printing paste and forms a three-dimensional film when heated.

Heat transfer printing:

Heat transfer printing is a technique where paper is printed, followed by the transfer of the design
from the paper onto the textile fabric. The design on the paper is placed onto the fabric, heated so
that the pigment binder softens, releases from the paper, and adheres to the fabric. This release
temperature is usually around 400°F (205°C).

FINISHING
Softening:
Sulfonated oils, sulfated tallow, glycerin, dextrin or sulfated alcohols are applied to fabrics to
make them softer with a more desirable feel and, often, more absorbent.
Sanforizing:
It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before
cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.
Peaching:
A technique that creates a feel that is soft to the touch, peaching is a relatively easy way to create
material that can be used in a number of different ways.
Panel Wash:
Foe knitted fabrics whose shrinkage can’t controlled even by compaction and sanforizing.
Singeing:
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off
projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a
gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material
without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.
Compaction:
Compressive treatment of knitted fabrics is a simple process whereby the lengthwise stitches of the fabric
are mechanically compacted.