Title: Experiment 1 – Measurement of water waves height and frequency

Objective: (i) to determine the resonant frequency of water waves in flume.

(ii) to determine the energy flux of water waves from waves height.

Introduction:
Ocean waves are generally caused by wind blowing over the sea surface. After the
waves have been excited, they can propagate without the aids of wind. Since density of water
is thousand times larger than air, ocean wave is an energy source with high density. The
power of ocean waves is usually presented as average power per meter of wave crest. In the
tropical countries, the power normally less than 10kW/m while in the northern or southern
countries, where the wind is not blocked by a continent, the power may reach 100kW/m.
Theoretical wave energy potential on the Earth is more than 30 PWh/yr. Despite of the huge
potential, oceans power is still absent from the main market compare to the wind and solar
power.
Three factors affect wave height: wind speed, the length of time the wind blows, and
the distance that the wind blows for without changing direction. When all three increase,
resulting higher waves. However, waves do not grow infinitely and when a certain point is
reached the waves break and releasing energy.
The ocean waves are typically chaotic. Mathematically, all the complex waves can be
approximated by a combination of sinusoidal waves of various amplitude, period, wave
length and directions. In this experiment, we will learn how to determine the power of a
sinusoidal water wave from the wave height and wave period. After that, we use this wave to
generate electricity through an oscillating water column. By measuring the electrical power
generated, we determine the efficiency of oscillating water column.

Figure 1: A simple monochromatic wave. It is much simpler to analyse because of their

uniformity
Linear theory of water waves:
Apparatus Required:
1. Water flume
2. OW-50 Wave maker
3. Ultrasonic water level sensor
4. USB camera
5. Arduino board
6. Laptop with XOWELvs1
Procedure Part 1
1. The dimensions of flume were measured.
2. The position of wave maker was recorded.
3. The position of ultrasonic sensor and buoyant were recorded.
4. The water depth was recorded.
5. The power of Arduino board was turned on.
6. Software XOWELvs1 was opened.
7. The Bluetooth address was chosen and “connect” button was clicked.
8. “Play” button was clicked to make sure the camera is function.
9. “Plot Start” button was clicked to make sure the ultrasonic is function.
10. “Data save” button was clicked to collect data for about 20 seconds. Then the button
was clicked again to stop collecting. This was the reference water level.
11. “Motor Power” button was clicked to turn on the wave maker.
12. “Motor Speed” button was clicked to change the speed to 4. (~10000L/hr)
13. “Data save” button was clicked to collect data for about 20 seconds after one value of
Motor frequency was selected. The button was clicked again to stop collecting.
14. “Record” button was clicked to use object tracking to track the buoyant motion and
clicked again to stop tracking after 20 seconds.
15. Another frequency was changed and repeated for step 10 to 11.
16. Data for 10 different frequencies were collected.
17. Another two values of Motor speed were used and repeated for step 10 to 13.

Procedure Part 2
1. The wave maker was turned on.
2. Motor speed 4 and a Motor frequency were selected which resonant wave was
generated.
3. The wave maker was turned power off after the resonant wave was built up and “Data
save” button was clicked to collect data for 30 seconds.
4. Step 1 to 3 were repeated for five times.
 Results

Table 1: Dimensions of the flume

Dimensions (cm)
Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 Average
Lengt Heigh Width Length Heigh Width Lengt Heigh Width
h t t h t
Flume

Table 2: The water depth

Length (cm) Average
Trial Trial Trial
1 2 3
Water
depth, h

Table 3: The position of the wave maker, ultrasonic sensor and buoyant

Position
Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 Average
x y z x y z x y z
Wave
maker, W
Ultrasonic
sensor, U
Buoyant,
B

Water maker flowrate, F: