The Made Up Self

Luci Hulme
N0633883
BA (Hons) Fashion Design Year 1
DCCT10001: Design, Culture and Context 1 201617
Lorraine Warde
Word Count:2158

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 The Made Up Self - An Investigation
into Makeup, Disguise and the
Pressure of Social Media.
Contouring, highlighting,
strobing and baking,
these words are
just a few currently
circulating teenage girl’s
conversations within
western culture on a
daily basis. Makeup has
become a huge part of
how many adolescent
girls choose to identify
themselves. Teenage
girls are constantly
bombarded with images
of the “perfect” face and
“perfect” body through
the likes of social media
and brand advertisements
so is it any wonder some
feel the need to alter their
appearance in order to
improve their confidence?
As a dedicated consumer
of the makeup industry
and a female who makes
up my own face every
morning I am interested
in investigating the
positive and negative
depictions of makeup in
the present day. I want to
examine the postmodern
idea of style replacing
substance as well as
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investigating whether a
decorated face means a
person is disguising their
image and thus in turn,
concealing their true
identity.
I am intrigued to find out
how others view makeup
and cosmetics, and to see
if those views coincide
with my own, as well as
seeing if by exploring this
topic further perhaps my
own notions could be
challenged. In context of
my own practice, I have
recently been exploring
the negative body image
presented to children
through the use of female
dolls and how this can
have a detrimental effect
on their own confidence
and self-esteem.
“She appears
as made up,
claiming false
identity, trying
to appear for
ever younger
and prettier
than nature
made her.”
(Tseelon, 1995:34)
The postmodern idea of
the value of depth being
replaced by the value
of surface is something
cultural theorist Tseelon
touches upon in The
Masque of Femininity.
Through the use of the
term “claiming false
identity” when describing
a made up female, Tseelon
immediately brings a
negative connotation
to the idea of wearing
makeup. The notion of a
person claiming a false
identity alludes to the
idea of said individual producing alongside a slogan that
portraying a lie and reads “morebeautiful
presenting an altered widespread
than natural.”
persona to the world. She anxiety and This statement gives
gives the impression that
those individuals who
alienation among strength to the idea that
a made up face is seen
choose to wear makeup women.” as conventionally more
are trying to make
This image came beautiful than a natural
themselves appear as
from a 2008 issue of one. Highlighting the idea
something they are not in
Vogue and shows three that if this view is shared
a somewhat sinister way.
tubes of foundation among society, perhaps
“False identity” creates
placed in a triangular females feel the need
an image of a person
formation advertising to put their “best face
concealing themselves
Giorgio Armani’s “Face forward” in order to feel
in an immoral manner,
Fabric” foundation. comfortable within their
individuals who “claim
The advertisement sits own skin.
false identity” are often
depicted as doing so in
an illegal sense, and thus
Tseelon presents a very
negative view of those who
choose to wear makeup.
However, is it any
wonder young women
choose to conceal or
alter their identity when
advertisements such as
these are commonplace?
Postmodern theorist
Leitch (1996: 111)
highlights the pressure
that advertising places
on young females in
society by affirming
“contemporary
fashion magazines
are part of
an extensive
disciplinary
apparatus which
promotes unreal Fig 1.Giorgio Armani Foundation Advertisement, May 2008.

beauty norms,
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 Juxtaposing this, in
figure 2, female rights
activist and singer Alicia
Keys opposes the idea
of a made up face being
more beautiful than a
natural one. She poses
completely bare faced,
confidently showing off
her own natural beauty.
Fig 2. Singer and Female Rights Activist, Alicia Keys with a
completely bare face by Paola Kudacki, 2016.
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Since showing the world
her natural self in 2016
the singer has given
up wearing makeup
completely. Using her
influential, celebrity
status, Keys is promoting
to her adolescent audience
that makeup does not
define who you are as
an individual and it is
acceptable to feel beautiful
without it.
“Indeed the very
concept of a
natural body is
specific to western
society” Negrin (2001:
104) Interestingly, the
natural self is a concept
that western culture has
invented as a contrast to
an adorned self. In other
societies this idea of a
natural self vs a made up
self is somewhat non-
existent.
Another celebrity seen
promoting her own
natural beauty is FHM
magazine’s sexiest woman
of 2013, actress Mila
Kunis. The actress posed
bare faced for a cover of
Glamour magazine in
2016, using her influential
celebrity status to show
her predominantly
teenage fan base that it is
acceptable to embrace
natural beauty.
 Fig 3. Actress Mila Kunis without makeup on the cover of Glamour Magazine,
2016.
With this view in mind,
as acceptable and
empowering as it is to
proclaim that a natural
face is a beautiful
one, surely it is just as
acceptable to claim that
a made up face is equally
as beautiful. The idea of
makeup being used as
a means of expression
and artistry is often instrumental
overlooked, however
feminist and political
culture is an
theorist Young (1994:208) aesthetic freedom,
appreciates this notion. the freedom to play
“One of the with shape and
privileges of colour on the body”
femininity in
rationalised
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 Fig 4. Lancome Foundation Advertisement staring Victoria’s Secret Model
Taylor Hill, March 2017.
Makeup brand Lancôme
recently advertised
their foundation using
Victoria’s Secret model
Taylor Hill as the face
of the campaign. In the
advertisement, Hill claims
that her foundation is her
“power.” The implied
meaning of makeup giving
a female power could
have both positive and
negative connotations.
Positive in such that
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females feel more “makeup makes
confident whilst wearing
makeup thus improving
me look better
their self-esteem. From a and therefor I feel
questionnaire I undertook better.” Subsequently,
in which I asked a group the idea of foundation
of teenage girls a variety giving power to a female
of questions regarding would seem to be
their views surrounding somewhat true.
makeup and self-esteem
it became apparent that
most felt more confident
with makeup than
without. One girl stated
This before and after upsetting. This lack of in the context
style image of a nineteen- confidence in regards to
year-old female was being photographed has of their own
taken myself. The girl is stemmed from the social friendship groups
pictured first completely media ideals of images
stripped back with no being “Instagram
and leisure
makeup. The girl did
worthy1” and activities, will
not feel comfortable to
show her full face for
individuals having to be examined in
look “photo ready” at all
a photograph without
times. Feminist author order to attempt
makeup. Next to this
image the girl is pictured
Frost (2001:82) supports to understand
this idea of young females
with a full face of makeup
feeling pressured to look the importance
looking considerably
more confident. When
their best at all time by given to looks
stating
interviewing the girl, and bodies, and
she stated that she
often leaves the house “Girls as a group to what extent
without makeup however of consumers and young women are
when it came to being
photographed, she felt producers within confined within
uncomfortable having contemporary this agenda.”
a bare face and felt she
sufficiently lacked self- western
assurance, something culture, and
which I found to be rather

Fig 5. Image of Teenage Girl With and Without Makeup, 2017.

Own Image.

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1 When an image is deemed attractive enough to be posted on social media site Instagram.
 Fig 6. Supermodel Cara Delevigne in Beauty Editorial for Allure Magazine, by Mario Testino, October
2014.

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Historically, the views
surrounding makeup
are generally negative,
particularly when
viewed in a religious
context. Early Christian
views about makeup
certainly had negative
implications. Confirming
this idea, Tertullian in
Ashburn (1993:348)
“For
articulates
they who rub
their skin with
medicaments,
stain their
cheeks with
rouge, make
their eyes
prominent with
anatomy, sin
against him” In
conjunction with Tseelon,
Tertullian affirms the idea
of makeup being thought
of as a disguise and
therefor a sinful act. The
connotations surrounding
the noun “sin” again
support the views of the
times in which many
people were afraid to
wear makeup due to the
pressures of the church
and the threat of God.
As times have progressed
it would seem that
these views have also
altered. Within modern
day western society
and culture, makeup is
under no circumstances
viewed as a “sin” or an
“act against God.” To
some, makeup is purely
viewed as a
tool used
to enhance one’s
natural beauty and
improve confidence.
This belief can be seen
to be supported by the
thousands of videos
and tutorials circulating
YouTube and social media
site Instagram regularly
in which makeup artists
provide tips and tricks
for their audiences to try
for themselves in order
to enhance their faces.
There is however, a form
of video in particular
which takes the title of
“no makeup,
makeup
tutorial.”
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 Fig 7. Paradoxical “No Makeup, Makeup” Tutorial on YouTube. Published June,
2014 by Makeup Artist Jaclyn Hill.
Figure 7 shows makeup
artist Jaclyn Hill in a
video that has received
over 1 and a half million
views, most likely from
viewers of my own
generation. The popularity
of a makeup tutorial which
uses makeup to make
oneself appear as though
they aren’t wearing
makeup is a confusing
concept and a paradox
in itself, but highlights
the fact that perhaps
individuals want to appear
as “natural” in order to
remove the stereotyping
surrounding having a
face full of makeup, but
need to use makeup as a
means of achieving this.
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Mascai-Lees and Sharpe
light. “Clothes,
(1992:3) stated “often
and particularly
it is assumed that
the unadorned,
makeup, did
unmonitored body not attempt
is an unspoiled to enhance
surface.” Drawing the individual
parallels between the
impression of a natural
character.
face appearing more Rather, they
beautiful and perhaps
purer than a made up one.
were made
Again, the thought of to blot out
an individual wanting individuality.”
to wear makeup whilst Sennett in Tseelon (2001:
looking as though they 28.) This quote opposes
aren’t gives strength to the the idea of makeup
argument that makeup being seen as a device
is viewed in a negative to enhance beauty, but
lends itself to the idea therefor self-confidence? dissatisfaction in terms
that makeup takes away of appearance within
Negrin (1995)
from natural beauty and females, consequently
summarised the views
removes individuality undermining their self-
held by feminists such
among females. esteem. The undermining
as Oakley, Brownmiller
of self-esteem again
It would seem that and Baker by describing
provides strength to
those who view makeup
the oppressive the notion of makeup
in a positive light are
more often than not nature of feminine being used as a tool of
transformation both
promoters of the products ideals of beauty physically and internally
themselves and by this I which generate a sense of amongst young girls.
am referring to cosmetic
companies. For example,
cosmetic brand Benefit,
known for their vintage,
pin up style of packaging
promote their products
in a way to appeal to their
audiences by implying
that makeup can aid them
in enhancing beauty. This
packaging of their “How
to Look the Best at
Everything” kit was
taken in a department
store by myself. The
branding of the product
and given implications
of the contents of the
toolbox having the power
to make the consumer
look the best at everything
clearly promote makeup
in a positive way and
the effects it can have
on appearance. With
low self-esteem among
teenage girls a topic of
much conversation in
the present day is it any
wonder they are attracted
to cosmetics such as these Fig 8. Benefit Cosmetics “How to Look the Best at Everything” Kit.
which claim to improve February 2017, Own Image.
their appearance and
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Fig 9. Beauty Editorial from Glamour Italia shot by Jamie Nelson, 2013.
The depiction of
makeup as a tool
of
transformation,
however this time in a
sinister way, can be seen
in this editorial beauty
image shot by Jamie
Nelson. The close up
image of a heavily made
up female who appears
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to be having her makeup
applied by numerous
hands immediately draws
negative implications.
The way in which the
makeup is being applied,
for example the eyelash
curlers appearing as
though they are forcibly
holding the models eyes
open and the hands of
strangers grasping the
models chin and neck
area are, to some extent,
frightening. Looking
further into the meaning
of the image and the
components which make
up the photograph,
it could be suggested
that makeup is forced
upon teens of my own
generation much like
it appears to be being
forced upon this model. It
has perhaps become the
norm to be seen wearing
a face of makeup due to
the heavily celebrity
influenced lives we
lead. Therefor as much
as makeup can be viewed
as a way of enhancing
self-esteem, it could be
argued that due to the
culture in which we live,
self-esteem has been
unfortunately lowered
because of the unrealistic
images presented to us
as teenagers on a regular
basis.
In conjunction with this
idea, feminist and social
theorist De Beauvouir
(1975: 543) in The
Second Sex denotes
“makeup and
jewellery also
further this
petrification of
face and body.”
This idea strengthens however since conducting
the argument of teenage an exploration I can see
girls feeling that they that even I use makeup as
need to wear makeup in a means of disguise and I
order to feel confident. do this to present what I
It would seem that believe to be my best self
young females are to to the world. But perhaps
some extent expected to
“like” makeup because
I have been
they have been socially conditioned, by
conditioned to do so. De
Beauvouir describes this the society in
“petrification of face” which I live, to
which I feel is apparent
in western society. have a distorted
Individuals are often
afraid to bare their natural
view of what my
selves and use this notion best self actually
of low self-esteem as a way
of deeming it acceptable
is.
to be dissatisfied with
appearance and therefor
wanting to alter it.
Conclusively, it would
seem that makeup is
used both as a means
of disguise and as a
way of improving self-
esteem. This idea of
makeup being used as
a means of disguise is
more metaphoric than
literal. Although yes,
makeup could be used as
a literal mask this idea
is more meant in a sense
of individuals feeling
they are masking their
low self-esteem when
wearing makeup and in
turn improving their own
confidence. When initially
researching this topic I
felt that makeup was in no
way a means of disguise,
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 Full Bibliography
Citations
Tseelon, 1995:34
Negrin, 1995:104
Leitch, 1996:111
Young 1994:208
Frost, 2001:82
Tertullian in Ashburn, 1993:348
Mascai-Lees and Sharpe,1992:3
Sennett in Tseelon 2001:28
Negrin, 1995:103
De Beauvouir, 1975:573

Illustrations
Cover image. Model Moa Aberg in beauty editorial for Vogue Italia, shot by Camilla
Akrans, 2013. Online.
Fig 1. Giorgio Armani Foundation Advertisement, May 2008.
Fig 2. Singer and Female Rights Activist with a completely bare face by Paola
Kudacki, 2016. Online.
Fig 3. Actress Mila Kunis without makeup on the cover of Glamour Magazine, 2016.
Online.
Fig 4. Lancôme Foundation Advertisement staring Victoria’s Secret Model Taylor
Hill, March 2017.
Fig 5. Image of teenage girl with and without makeup, 2017. Own image.
Fig 6. Supermodel Cara Delevigne in beauty editorial for Allure magazine,
photographer Mario Testino, October 2014. Online.
Fig 7. Paradoxical “No Makeup Makeup” Tutorial on YouTube. Published June, 2014
by makeup artist Jaclyn Hill. Online.
Fig 8. Benefit Cosmetics “How to Look the Best at Everything” kit. February 2017.
Own Image.
Fig 9. Beauty Editorial from Glamour Italia by Jamie Nelson, 2013. Online.

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Bibliography

Books
BROWNMILLER, 1984. Femininity, London, Hogarth Press.
DAVIS, 1994. Fashion, Culture and Identity, London, Chicago University Press.
De BEAUVOUIR, 1975. The Second Sex, Middlesex, Penguin.
ELDRIDGE, 2015. Face Paint: The Story of Makeup, New York, ABRAMS Image.
FROST, L 2001. Young Women and the Body: A Feminist Sociology, New York,
Palgrave.
GOFFMAN, 1979. Gender Advertisements, Michigan, Harper & Row.
JOHNSON and MORAN, 2013. The Female Face of Shame, Indiana, India
University Press.
MASCAI-LEES and SHARPE, 1992. Tattoo, Torture, Mutilation and Adornment:
The De-Naturalisation of the Body in Culture and Text, Albany, State University of
New York Press.
MCEVOY, 2003. The Power of Makeup, New York, Fireside.
MORAWETZ, 2001. Making Faces, Playing God: Identity and the Art of
Transformational Makeup, Texas, University of Texas Press.
ROGERS, 1999. Barbie Culture, London, SAGE Publications.
TEBBEL, 2000. The Body Snatchers: How the Media Shapes Women, New Zealand,
Finch Publishing.
TSEELON, 1995. The Masque of Femininity, California, SAGE Publications.

Articles
Academic journals
ASHBURN, 1993. Essays on Women in Earliest Christianity Volume 2, Joplin
Missouri, College Press Publishing Company.
ABRUDAN, 2012. Postmodern Identity. Image, Fashion and New Technologies,
Romania, Accent Publisher.
LEITCH, 1996. Costly Compensations: Postmodern Fashion, Politics, Identity.
Baltimore, Modern Fiction Studies.
NEGRIN, 1995. The Self as Image: A Critical Appraisal of Postmodern Theories of
Fashion, California, SAGE Publications.

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 TSEELON, 2001. Masquerade and Identities, Essays on Gender, Sexuality and
Marginality, London, Routledge.
YOUNG, 1994. Women Recovering our Clothes. Indiana, Bloomington Indiana
University Press.

Additional Sources
Websites
Actress Mila Kunis without makeup on the cover of Glamour Magazine. Online-
http://www.glamour.com/story/i-love-makeup-i-also-love-taking-it-off
Beauty Editorial from Glamour Italia 2013, Jamie Nelson. Online- http://
bloodandco.com/index.php/photography/jamie_nelson1/beauty11/
Model Moa Aberg in beauty editorial for Vogue Italia, shot by Camilla Akrans, 2013.
Online- http://trendland.com/moa-aberg-by-camilla-akrans-for-vogue-italia-
march-2013/moa-aberg-by-camilla-akrans-for-vogue-italia-march-2013-01/
Paradoxical “No Makeup Makeup” Tutorial on Youtube. Published June, 2014 by
makeup artist Jaclyn Hill. Online- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otijnJZcFfc
Supermodel Cara Delevigne in beauty editorial for Allure magazine, photographer
Mario Testino, October 2014. Online- http://www.beautyscene.net/beauty-shoots/
cara-delevingne-by-mario-testino-for-allure-october-2014-2/

Publications
Vogue May 2008
Vogue 2017

Video
Body Image: The Quest for Perfection, sourced online- http://search.
alexanderstreet.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/view/work/3239195
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otijnJZcFfc

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