Lecture no:1

Dyes- facts about dyes

Definition of a dye

Composition of a dye

Terminology related to dyes and dyeing.

Selection of dyes

DYES: FACTS ABOUT DYES

DEFINITION OF DYE:

 Dyes are natural or synthetic substances that add colour to the fibre, yarns and
fabrics. Dyes may combine chemically with fibre molecules, attach themselves to
the fibre surface, or be absorbed in to the fibre without the chemical action.
 The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are responsible for the
colour of the dyed and printed textile fibre materials.
 Dye is a compound that can be fixed on a substance in a more or less permanent
state and evokes the visual sensation of a specific colour.

COMPOSITION OF DYES:

 Dye molecules are coloured because they are selectively able to absorb and
reflect some of the wavelengths of the incident light.
 When all the visible light rays are reflected, it appears black.
 When one or more rays are reflected the viewer senses the colour produced by
the specific reflected ray or combination of rays.
 Organic molecules become coloured, and thus useful dye molecules, if they
contain at least one of each of the radicals called chromophores and
auxochromes.
 In general, chromophores give the dye molecule its particular colour, while the
auxochromes intensify the hue of the dye molecules colour, and make the dye
molecule water soluble.
Chromophores:

 The name is derived from the Greek word chrome=colour and phore from
pherein = to bear.

 .chromophores are unsaturated organic radicals

 Their specific state of unsaturation enables them to absorb and reflect incident
electromagnetic radiation within the very narrow band of visible light.

 Chromophores are made up of some organic molecular arrangements as the azo

group, quinonoid group, nitro group, nitrose group, carboxyl group.

 To produce colour visible to the human eye, the dye stuff must have at least two
chromophore groups.

 A molecule possessing no chromophore would be colour less.

Auxochromes:

 The intensity or the brilliance of the colour depends on the presence of one or
more substance called auxochromes.

 The name is derived from Greek auxein= to increase, and chroma=colour.

 Auxochromes are organic radicals which include carboxyl group, sulphonic

group, amino group, methyl amino, and hydroxyl group.

 A dye molecule without auxochromes would lack intensity of colour. This is

because the incident light waves would not be absorbed and reflected as
selectively as occurs in the presence of auxochromes.

 Auxochromes tend to be polar. This increases the overall polarity of the dye
molecule and makes it more readily soluble in water.

As a result of physical interaction between chromophores and auxochromes,

textile dyes have some of the highest colour intensities of all colourants in
common use.

TERMINOLOGY RELATED TO DYES AND DYEING:

1. Auxochrome intensify the hue of the dye molecules colour and makes the dye
molecule soluble in water.
2. Bleeding is colour loss in water
3. Crocking is colour loss from rubbing or abrasion.
 4. Colour flare or Metamerism: when two or more types of fabrics are dyed,
particularly by different dyers, the colours may appear to match in one light (day
light) but will not match in another light (incandescent light).
5. Chromophore is the colour producing portion of the dye molecule.
6. Dye: The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are responsible for
the colour of the dyed and printed fibre textile materials.
7. Dye process is the environment created for the introduction of dye by hot water,
steam, or dry heat.
8. Dye lot number: Once a colour has been selected, it is essential that its
formulation be kept consistent and so each batch that is dyed must have its Dye
lot number.
9. Fluorescent dye glows under ultraviolet light. It absorbs light at the wave length
and remits that energy at another wave length. These dyes are used in safety
clothing to increase visibility.
10. Migration: shifting of colour to the surrounding area or to an adjacent surface.
11. Pigments are insoluble colour particles that are held on the surface of fabric by
binding agents. Their application is simple, quick and economical.

SELECTION OF DYES:

Textiles can be dyed in different forms. Before dyeing, a proper selection of a dye
must be made. The dyer must consider quality of fibre, yarn, weave, finishing
process and suitability of dye to various uses. All dyes cannot be expected to be fast
in all conditions, such as perspiration, or sunlight but they must be fast to the
conditions with which they will come in to contact with or get exposed to in use.

The selection of dyes of a particular class depends up on various considerations

such as
 Cost of dyeing,
 Availability of the required shades,
 Fastness of dyed materials,
 Brightness of shades,
 Ease of dyeing.

References:

1) Corbman .B.P., Textiles fibre to fabric, 1985, McGraw-Hill Book company.

2) Gohl.E.P.G and Vilensky.L.d. Textile science,1987, CBS Publishers and distributors.
pp: 120.
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3) Norma Hollen, Jane saddler, 1979, Textiles, 5 edition, Macmillan Publishings.co.,
inc. new York.1979. pp: 289.

4) Vatsala.R, 2003, Text book of textiles and clothing, Indian council of agricultural
research. pp: 111-122.