WRITTEN ASSIGNMENT

Dior: Then & Now

Collection Analysis

Lifestyle Studies 2
Design History 2

Ms Bosworth

Ha-Eun Bae A1
(K16095)

29 May 2017
 Dior: Then & Now
Christian Dior’s floral dream | Maria Grazia Chiuri celestial world

Christian Dior, 1950, Bettmann/CORBIS

Named after French couturier, Christian Dior, the House of Dior made itself on the
fashion world map on February 12, 1947 (Mcdowell, 2015), with the help of Marcel
Boussac, a cotton fabric magnate. He offered society a collection that was
sensational and extraordinary, naming it ‘La Carolle’ (a.k.a. Figure 8) defined as a
circlet of flower petals.

Getty Images (2016), La Corolle, 1947

Christian wanted a collection that epitomized the feminine form and sought after his
desire for ‘flower women’. He gathered inspiration from the gardens of his past –
adoration of his mother clothed in the Belle Epoque style, his love for horticulture as
a young boy and early creative experiences in the art and fashion world.

“By nature, I am drawn to the past”

Christian Dior

Christian stepped away from the boxy, conservative silhouettes that were brought in
by the war time. The silhouette defined women in strict formality and with little
independence. Instead, he chose to step into romantic whims, imagination and
opulence for women by creating beautifully constructed forms. The debut collection
consists of 90 designs that introduced Dior’s ‘New Look’ – cinched waistlines that
accentuated the soft curvatures of the hips, covered by flowing barrel skirts that
dropped below the knee (A White Carousel, 2010).

Model wearing “Songe”

La Maison Dior, 1947
Even though Christian faced much criticism for the extravagant amount of fabric and
avant-garde detailing, in a matter of months, he became the centre of attention.
Growing and developing past boundaries, he gained fame amongst celebrities and
even within the British royal Family.
Although his career was short-live, Christian was fundamental in changing the
course of the fashion industry. He paved the way for the House of Dior to manifest its
original ideals and looks, striving for individuality, innovation and precision in
detailing. He succeeded in securing Dior as one of the best fashion houses. in the
world.
 Vogue, 2017
Following closely in his footsteps, Maria Grazia Chiuri was appointed as the 4 th, first
ever female creative director for Dior in 2017. Without forgetting the foundation in
which Dior is embedded, she brought in her own style and took feminism to a whole
different level.

I
“ thought to myself: if Dior is about femininity, then
it is about women. And not about what it was to be a
woman 50 years ago, but to be a woman today.”
Mari Grazia Chiuri

She steered Dior into new worldly thinking instead of keeping it back in the 50s. Her
belief is that even though feminism for Dior is seen as the look first introduced in
Corolle, it is important to immerse into the present meaning of feminism and
understand the 21st century woman. The collections that she has presented so far
have been weaved with her persistent desire to combine reality with reverie – adding
in the voices for future generations (The Guardian, 2017).

Vogue, Blue Collection, 2017

This approach is clearly seen in her Blue Collection, comprising of 68 looks. The
element that tied all the looks together and allowed Maria Chiuri to delve into more
than just one thought and idea is the colour blue. Whilst developing the collection,
she went back into the Dior archives and picked up that although Black, the core
colour for the Corolle collection, was the colour of the 50th century, blue was second
best to Christian Dior. For Chiuri, it did not only point to feminism, elegance or
sophistication but it linked a myriad of concepts that she pulled from Dior’s archives
as well as her own search for the Dior woman’s identity. The link starting from the
Virgin Mary; nostalgia of places like China and ancient Picts; mystic of the natural
world; revival of impressionism; masculinity all the way to blue being the colour of
military. Having this specific colour theme also allowed Chiuri to yes, be bold with all
the opposing ideas but also have a calm, serene temperament – something that is
retrospective to the Corolle collection designs. Like the never-before-seen,
rebelliousness of the ‘New Look’, the Blue Collection brings in a gothic, youth-
degenerate that also uplifts opulence (relating back to Chiuri’s vision for the modern
woman) (Financial Times, 2017).

There is opposition to the ‘New Look’ in terms of the silhouettes. The Corolle
silhouettes focused on the hourglass figure and comprised of petticoats, mini-
waisted corsets, hip padding, bodice, crinolines and more. Sculptural, charming,
seductive, voluminous – all the qualities desired by Christian Dior. On the other
hand, the Blue Collection refashioned high fashion with athleisure so that the
designs could also be every-day wear. This entailed in the dropping the slimming bar
suits and voluminous skirts for more uniformed, loosely fitted garments (usual skirts
and dresses, modernized with bomber jackets, capes, hoods and pants).

Vogue, Blue Collection, 2017 and Part Nouveau, 2013

Also, adopting Dior’s principles of fine tailoring (selvedge seams) using luxurious
fabrics (especially taffeta) and intricate embroidering (this level first accomplished
with the Corolle collection’s floral detailing) – we can see that great effort was made
to showcase the couture skills and cuts in the Blue Collection. The contrasting fabric
choices for this collection such as taffeta and tulle with wool and denim all added to
the cross-over of historical and contemporary. An important theme that runs
throughout the collections is the celestial/galactic theme, seen in the heavy beading
and embroidery on the garments – this was supported with the show’s mysterious
quality. Chiuri keeps in mind the Parisian background of Dior’s ‘flower woman’ in
brimmed hats, simple jewellery and make up but instead, she opts for a different
Parisian look: all the models with Stephen Jones black leather berets, chokers on
neck, multiple rings and natural/contoured make-up.

Vogue, Blue Collection, 2017

To further the approach to revolutionising the ideal Dior woman, she gives her looks
a military approach with ammunition-like jewelled cross-over bags which are also
branded with a new Dior logo. Without the prim styling of hair seen in 1947, Chiuri
also adds in bushier hairstyles, coupled with a few boy cuts (opening look included).
The stiletto heeled shoes are reminiscent of the Goya pumps seen in the Corolle
collections, with the addition of military combat boots.
These findings clarify the nature of the House of Dior: its understanding for the need
to explore women in their collective centuries. While Christian Dior set the goal for
“youth, hope and the future” in his feminine Corolle collection, Chiuri took one step
further and extended that description to also fit the worldly, modern woman.
So what makes Dior, Dior? Well, the answer is endless.

“ Even when there are no more secrets, fashion

remains a mystery”
Christian Dior
References
1. Bettman/CORBIS, 1950. Christian Dior. [image online] Available at:
<http://www.hautecouturenews.com/2015/story/christian -dior/> [Accessed 28 May 2017]
2. Getty Images, 2016. La Corolle. [image online] Available at: <http://www.designer-
vitages.com/en/news/article/christian-dior-s-new-look> [Accessed 28 May 2017]
3. La Maison Dior, 1947. Model wearing “Songe”. [image online] Available at:
<http://www.lamaisondior.tumblr.com/post/124191341020/lamaisondior-dior-house-model-
wearing-songe#notes
4. Vogue, 2017. Maria Grazia Chiuri On Dior. [image online] Available at: <http://
www.vogue.co.uk/article/maria-grazia-chiuri-how-to-dress-a-woman-of-the-future-vogue-
interview> [Accessed 28 May 2017]
5. Vogue, 2017. Dior Fall 2017 ready-To-Wear. [image online] Available at: <http://
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/christian-
dior/slideshow/collection#> [Accessed 28 May 2017]
6. Part Nouveau, 2013. Raise the Bar. [image online] Available at
<http://www.partnouveau.com/?p= 1656> [Accessed 28 May 2017]
7.

8.

9.

10.

11.