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Lingerie Design & Development

Lingerie
„ Women's underwear and nightclothes

„ Lingerie is A term for women's fashion undergarments designed to be visually


appealing or sensuous.

„ Lingerie is a term for fashionable and alluring undergarments.

„ It derives from the French word linge, -"washables"


as in faire le linge, - "do the laundry" — and ultimately from lin - washable linen,
the fabric from which undergarments were made.

„ (län'zhə-rā', län'zhə-rē,) A general, broad term for women's under-clothing or


night wear.
Undergarments
„ Undergarments or underwear are clothes worn under other clothes, often
next to the skin.
„ They keep outer garments from being soiled by perspiration, and other
discharges; shape the body; and provide support.
„ It also provides additional warmth.
„ Some undergarments can serve as nightwear or swimsuits.
„ Undergarments commonly worn by women today include brassieres and
panties (also known as knickers),
„ While men often wear briefs, boxer shorts, and boxer briefs.
„ Items commonly worn by both sexes include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts
(also called singlets), bikini underwear, thongs, and G-strings
History
„ The history of brassieres is intertwined with the social
history of the status of women, including the evolution
of fashion and changing views of the body.

„ Women have used a variety of garments and devices to


cover, restrain, or modify the display and shape of their
breasts.

„ From the 16th century onwards, the undergarments of


wealthier women were dominated by the corset, which
pushed the breasts upwards.
History
„ In the latter part of the 19th century, various alternatives were
experimented with, splitting the corset into a girdle-like
restraining device for the lower torso

„ and transferring the upper part to devices suspended from the


shoulder .

„ By the early 20th century, garments more closely resembling


contemporary bras had emerged, although large-scale
commercial production did not occur till the 1930s.

„ Since then bras have replaced corsets, although some women


prefer camisoles and a minority go without. Brassieres are a
multi-billion-dollar industry dominated by large multinational
corporations .

„ During the 20th century, the emphasis on brassiere usage has


shifted from functionality to fashion.
History
Ancient Age

„ The history of the bra is a long and storied one.


Going as far back as 2500 BC during the early
period of Minoan Crete civilization, women wore
bra-like underclothing to support the breasts.

„ One slight difference between the articles worn by


our Mediterranean ancestors and modern
underclothing is that the Crete women, apparently at
the urgings of Crete men, wore bras that lifted their
breasts above the neckline of their clothes,exposing
them for all to see.

The Cretan Snake Goddess


History
Ancient Age

„ The Cretan Snake Goddess, was an ancient


statue found in Greece around 2000 BC

„ she was sculptured wearing a tight-fitting


garment from underbust to the waist that
effectively frapped her waist and pushed
up her naked breast.

„ This garment was considered a


predecessor of today’s corset.

„ Roman women in 3rd or 4th centuries wore


a circular band around their breasts whose
purpose was to reduce the breast
movement , and to hide the protrusion of
natural breast
History
Medieval Period

„ During the 13th to 14th century , most women left their breasts
unsupported .
„ Tailors developed techniques to produce body - conscious
garments through shaped pattern pieces , whereby the breasts
were evident even if not emphasized.
„ At the end of the 14th century , the medieval period gave way to
the Renaissance , when the appreciation of beauty was renewed .
History
Crazy Corset Years

„ Croset was quite essential in the everyday life


of women during the 16th , 17th and 18th
centuries.

„ In the early 1500s, in order to compress the


breasts and to shape the torso as a smooth line
, women wore corsets that were made from
paste-stiffened linen and given support by thin
wooden planks called busk. By the 1530s ,
iron corsets were being worn by the upper
classes.

„ The emphasis now was on form, with


compression of the breasts forcing them
upwards to the point of almost spilling out, so
a considerable part of the breast was exposed.
The ideal form was narrow-waisted
(hourglass), but voluptuous.
History
„ By the middle of the 19th century, the
corset was still in fashion.
„ Steel-reinforced corsets, alongside corsets
were also made from whale bones.

„ This durable material has the ability to


hold its shape, making it ideal for
stiffening the confining undergarment.

„ The concept of lingerie as visually


appealing undergarment was developed
during the late nineteenth century.

„ Corset and tight lacing to give fashionably


long slender figure A luxury hourglass corset from
1878, featuring a busk fastening
at the front and lacing at the
back
History
„ Corsets molded, cinched, flattened
or lifted women's silhouettes, for a
look largely associated with the
fashion of the 1800s and the
Victorian age.

„ The ultimate achievement of the


corset. The 20-inch waist -- and
along with it, contraption so tight
they damaged internal organs.
History
History

„ Through the first half of the 20th century,


women wore underwear for three primary
reasons:
‰ to alter their outward shape (first with
corsets and later with girdles or bras),
‰ for hygienic reasons, or

‰ for modesty.

Girdles
History
„ Before the invention of crinoline, women's
underwear was often very large and bulky.

„ During the late 19th century, corsets


became smaller, less bulky and constricting,
and were gradually supplanted by the
brassiere, first patented in the 20th century
by Mary Phelps Jacob.

„ When the First World War broke out,


women found themselves filling in men's
work roles, creating a creating a demand for
more practical undergarments.
Manufacturer began to use lighter and more
breathable fabrics.
History

„ The brassiere or bra was born at the early 20th century just
after the decline in the popularity of corsets in the late 19th
century .
„ The early bra invention was based on an idea to use shoulder
straps and cups to support the weight of the breast in order to
make a garment that was more comfortable to wear and
healthier than corsets
History
„ In 1889, corset maker Herminie Cadolle invented
le bien-être,or the "Well-being."
„ For women's comfort she had cut the traditional
corset in two. She had invented the first BRA
which she patented and initially called the
"corselet gorge“ or the soutien-gorge ("support for
the breast" in old French), and would almost Cadolle’s Corset
blend-in with modern underclothing if you saw it
on a shelf today.
„ Her garment effectively cut the traditional corset in
two. The lower part was a corset for the waist, the
upper supporting the breasts by means of shoulder
straps.
„ Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile was a pioneer in
developing lingerie that freed women from more
restrictive corsets.
„ she launched liberating slit skirts and low
necklines, popularized less restrictive corsets, and
promoted alluring, pared-down lingerie.
History

„ Marie Tucek filed an application with


the U.S. Patent Office for a "breast
supporter"

„ Tucek cleverly integrated separate


pockets for each breast and her
invention had the hook-and-eye
closures modern women are familiar
with today

„ looked very similar to the mordern


demi-cup bras.

„ However it can barely called a bra as it


did not covered women’s nipples.

Breast Supporter in 1893


History

„ The early half of the 1900s saw marked improvements and developments in
the continuing saga of the bra.

„ In 1904, Charles de Bevoise invented over 20 different styles of


lightweight undergarment fashioned in silk and embroidered with lace to
meet the women’s demand for comfortable undergarments.

„ Among these styles, he created a form-fitting corset cover with build-in


shoulders. This was the first time that the breasts were supported from
above instead of being pushed up from below. He called them ‘brassieres’
from the old French braciere: bra, arm (from the Latin brācchium;)+ - iere,-
ier,one associated with meaning "upper arm."
History
„ The year 1913 saw the invention of what can
truly be considered the modern bra by a 22-year
old New York socialite named Mary Phelps
Jacob.
„ Jacob had purchased a delicate, sheer dress for
an upcoming night on the town, but to her
dismay, she found that her whale-bone corset
was quite conspicuous through the fabric. The First patented ‘Brassiere’ in 1914
„ Her solution was simple, effective, and stylish
as well. Jacob sewed two silk handkerchiefs
together to form the support of the bra, and used
pink ribbon to create shoulder straps. Her
invention so impressed her female friends, that
they started making requests for their own.
„ In 1914, she was granted the first patent under
her name ‘brassiere’
„ she sold the patent to the Warner Brothers
Corset Company for $1,500. Over the next 30
years, it is estimated that the Warner Brothers
Corset Company made $15 million by selling
her invention.
History
„ Later famous invention include Howard
Hughes’s cantilevered bra in 1943 using
aeronautical engineering to uplift the contour
of the bosom , While filming The Outlaw.

„ Hughes added rods of curved structural steel


that were sewn into the brassiere below each
breast. The rods were connected to the bra's
shoulder straps. The arrangement allowed the
breasts to be pulled upward and made it
possible to move the shoulder straps away
from the neck.

Jane Russell in The Outlaw (Howard


Hughes’s cantilevered bra)
History
„ In 1950’s ,Maidenform created ‘Chansonette’ – the
famous bullet bra with its signature circular stitching

„ In 1960 the first Wonderbra – a push-up plung bra was


created by a canadian designer called Louise Poirier .

„ But almost at the same time , the feminist demanded


women burn their bras. Rudi Gernriech designed the ‘no
bra’ bra which was made of see-through streatch netting
with a natural transparent look

„ In 1970 technical developments in garment moulding


from one piece of elastane fabric were made which the
lingerie industry was quick to adopt.

„ In the 1980’s ,French Couturier Jean – Paul Gaultier was


even inspiring to turn underwear into outerwear with his
cutting edge designes .This design was later featured in
Madonna’s famous Gaultier’s twin peaks conical bra to
be visible through the outerwear
Bra Innovations in the 21st century

„ The push up bra


„ The Liquid Filled Bra- The Magic Bra
„ The Adhesive Bra
„ The Cosmetic Bra
„ The Shape Memory Bra
„ The Nami-Nami Bra –The T-Shirt Bra
„ The Shakitto Bra
„ The Sleeping Bra
„ The Bioform Bra
„ The Smart Bra
„ The Techno Bra
„ The Electronic Bra
„ Protective cool guard for Sports Bra
The push up bra
„ It was believed that the invention of the push-
up bra was attributed to the aeronautical
engineer Howard Hughes in 1943.

„ He fabricated a material with rods of curved


structural steel that were sewn into the
garment below each breast and connected to
the shoulder straps. The rigid steel allowed the
breast to be pulled upwards, and for the
shoulder straps to be moved away from the
neck showing an exposed bosom curve.

„ The push-up bra has as its unique feature the


incorporation of underwire that lifts the
breasts upward to present a deep cleavage
between the breasts that contributes to making
it a distinctive fashion silhouette.
The Liquid Filled Bra- The Magic Bra
„ The magic bra is a version of push-up bra that contains liquid
filled pads inserted in the cups that support the breasts to fit them
up.

„ It makes the bra more comfortable than the traditional cleavage –


creating contraptions. It is like an implant that increases women’s
bust size.

„ This actually was invented in 1993 by Taiwanese inventor Aaron


Ho who made the bra to help women recover after breast surgery.
He lined the bra cups with pads filled with oil and water. The
differing breast weights created a constant displacement that
massages the breast.

„ The new invention was later brought to the lingerie industry and
marketed as the ‘Magic Bra’.

„ Because of its popularity, many major lingerie brands have


adopted the concept and launched different types of liquid filled
bra .
„ The Scottish MJM company invented a silicon based gel for its
‘Ultimo Bra’ after three years of experiments
„ In contrast many other brands have their ‘Water Bra’ filled with a
mixture of body oil and water. Later Fashion Forms in the U.S
developed an ‘Air Bra’ that can be inflated with an air pump like
a bicycle tyre.
The Adhesive bra
„ The adhesive bra or invisible bra is a pair of silicon-like,
self adhesive cups connected at the front by a hook without
the shoulder straps and band found on a conventional bra .

„ It sticks to the wearer’s breast by virtue of its adhesive


concave surface creating a suction force that is supposed to
make it stay in place, even during motion. It has become a
fashion item worn with low neckline, backless and bare-
shoulder clothing where the bra straps and components
would otherwise be seen .It may cover the whole of the
bottom of the breast or just the nipples.

„ The quality and performance of the adhesive bras depends


much on the material used. The commercial examples are
polyfoam, hypoallergenic fabric, silicon pads, 100% rayon
fabrics with air-holes or acrylic based double sided
adhesive fabrics.

„ However consumer may develop itching, blisters or rashes


on hypersensitive skin. Desirable properties are lightness
air-permeability, softness, comfort and reusability. The
‘Nubra’ adhesive backless, strapless stick-on bras patented
by Bragel are claimed to wearable 100 of times with proper
care.
The cosmetic bra
„ Triumph international’s cosmetic bras are produced in a range of styles
and materials for the Asia-Pacific market.
„ ‘Sea Cell’ is made from fabrics derived from natural seaweed which is
rich in minerals, vitamins and amino acids.
„ Alternatively the ‘Silk protein bra’ exudes the smooth silk protein sericin
and is charged with negative ions.
„ Another type is the ‘Aloe Vera Bra’ also used for cosmetic purposes.
Triumph new collection ‘body fusion’ and Playtex Second Skin Body
Smoothing with Aloe Vera Underwire Bra are infused with moisturizing
and antimicrobial properties of Aloe Vera.
The Shape memory bra
„ TiNi, a mixture of titanium and nickel, is the most popular shape memory
alloy (SMA) that has been used for bra wires as it is soft and light in
weight.
„ It exhibits shape –memory and super elastic characteristics after being
subjected to heat treatment.
„ Reheating it to the set temperatures automatically restores its original
shapes even if it has been deformed severely.
„ Shape memory wires made of resin or plastic are preferred because they are
softer, have a lower electrical conductance and reinforcement with very
little likelihood of breaking. For example, Wacoal uses resin wire for junior
bras that give more stretch and snug fit for teenage girls .
The Nami Nami bra- The T-Shirt Bra
„ Adopting the new technology of film adhesive, Wacoal
developed the famous T-shirt Bra or ‘Nami Nami’in
2002.

„ This seamless bra is completely glued together with a soft


and highly elastic adhesive ‘Bemis’ film .

„ Consequently the side and back of the bra as well as the


cups are less visible when worn with close fitted summer
clothes .

„ This bonded bra is relatively light when compared with


the existing cut-and-sewn designs and it is particularly
good in applications where stretch as well as recovery are
required to allow freedom of movement while remaining
in place during exercise.

„ This product features a novel knit and a newly developed,


readily cuttable textile that ensures the line of the
undergarment is less visible through outer-garments . This
innovation was successful as it generated a new market
and business.
The Shakitto bra
„ In autumn 2002, Wacoal introduced the ‘Shakitto
bra’ with added skeletal support to correct the
wearer’s posture to a more upright attitude.

„ The Wacoal human Science research center studied


the breathing of women and revealed that that the
upright attitude occurs when the chest expands to
take in a deep breath. Using the concept, the
‘Shakitto bra’ was designed to tilt the spine by
exerting pressure to the wearer’s side muscles.

„ To achieve this, the wing was reinforced by two


bindings –one with a boned channel and the other at
the angle of 45 degrees to support the bone structure
at the wing seam.

„ This triangular architecture created a strong base to


hold the bra firmly around the ribcage and assists the
body to strand straight using the skeletal support
concept and which stretches the back muscles
naturally
The Sleeping bra

„ When standing, women’s breasts drop downward


due to the force of the gravity. When lying flat on a
bed, the breast spread out towards the arm. While
lying on the left side of the body, the right breast
drop towards the sternum and slightly towards the
neck direction, due to the weight of the breasts.

„ Based on the understanding of the breast movement


during sleeping, Wacoal has invented a ‘Sleeping
Bra’ that can lightly control the breast position in
all directions, by adding double layer to the
surrounding of the bra cup.

„ The Sleeping bra is made of anti-bacterial cotton


lycra material free from any metal or resin.
Moreover the material regulates the transfer of heat
and moisture so as to ensure good sleeping quality.
The Bioform Bra
„ Industrial designers Powell and Seymour
in 1998 , attempted a radical redesign of
bras for full-figure females.

„ Instead of an under-wire it contains a


moulded wing made from reinforced
polypropylene all housed within a body-
forming Elastomer cup.

„ The bra claims to offer an impressive


uplift without pinching under the armpit
or leaving indents on your rib cage unlike
conventional under-wired versions.

„ Made of 39% polyamide, 34% polyester,


15% viscose and 12% Elastane it is
machine washable at 40 degrees .
The Smart Bra
„ The Intelligent Polymer Research Institute at the University of Wollongong in
Australia developed a ‘Smart Bra’ which could tighten its own straps if an
energetic wearer needed extra support.

„ The ‘Smart Bra’ was made of a fabric with a coating of conducting polymer
that made it contract when the strain on it passed a pre-set level, so as to offer
instant customized support to match the movement. The Conducting polymers
were ‘doped’ with chemicals that changed their atomic structure so that they
conducted electricity.

„ The technology has resulted in a commercial prototype for active women who
suffer from breast pain due to the displacement of breasts during motion.
The Techno Bra
„ The Techno Bra, developed by Kirsty Groves, a design student at the Royal collage of Arts in
London,

„ Featured a heart monitor, GPS (Global positioning System) locator and wireless phone. All of
which were discreetly concealed within removable gel pads.

„ The bra is made up of special fabric (electricity-conducting fabric) that transmits the wearer’s
pulse to the monitor,, which is sensitive enough to distinguish between changes in heart rate
induced by exercise and those resulting from fear.

„ If the bra detected a rapid jump in heart rate, the GPS system established the location and
informed the police via the wireless phone. Once the monitor detected a sudden change in the
wearer’s heart beat, she had 30seconds to deactivate the bra if it was a false alarm. Otherwise the
GPS satellite received a signal, determined the location of the wearer and dispatched a text
message to local police or to a close relative or friend’s phone.

„ The reasearch was supported by ProActiv, who provided the heart-monitoring sensors for the
prototypes.

„ The fabric developed for use in filteration system was machine washable.The battary and fail-
safe button were built into the front clasp and the electronics could be removed before
laundering .
„ The Techno Bra will initially be aimed at women as a security device, but it could easily be
adapted for patients with heart trouble or built into a T-shirt for use by women and men as an
exercise monitor. Several companies have expressed an interest in bringing the Technobra to
market.
The Electronic Bra
„ Researchers at De Montfort University in England have invented an ‘electronic bra’
to detect cancer using electrical pulses.
„ They hoped the technology could provide earlier warning of cancerous growths
within the breast without the use of radiation.
„ The bra contains electrodes that send tiny electrical currents to breasts. This allows
doctor to build up a computer image that identifies the tissue.
„ Scientists have developed a cancer-scanning device which is worn as a bra and
finds tumours with electrical pulses. Researchers from De Montfort University in
Leicester designed the bra, which they believe could be as effective, or even more
effective than traditional x-ray mammograms, while being safer and cheaper. It uses
tiny electrical currents which are passed through the breast, working on the
principle that the differences between healthy breast tissue and tumour tissue affect
the way the current gets through. The denser tissue in tumours makes it harder for
the electricity to get through, and sensitive measuring equipment picks this up. By
"scanning" the breast from many different angles, a detailed map on which
abnormal growth stands out can be constructed on a computer. So far, testing has
been restricted to tissue samples in the laboratory, but the research team is
confident that tests on humans will prove the value of the device [34].
„ The concept was brilliant, but the implication was more difficult than expected. A
reported the project has been discontinued. This states that the complete process of
innovation is not so easy.
Protective Cool Guard for Sports Bra

„ The Cool Guard sports bra is designed to support the


female athlete’s breasts and lessen injury from
contact.
„ Dr. Stephen Legg, an Ergonomist at Massey
University, developed the protective ‘Cool Guard’as a
sports bra.
„ The Breast is encapsulated rather than strapped down
with a removable plastic cup.
„ These cups are made from a lightweight and flexible
polyethylene which is inserted inside the pocket over
each bra cup lining.
„ It offers protection against painful knocks in contact
sports such as Soccer, Hockey, Rugby, Football,
Martial arts, whilst also supplying support for the
joggers. It was proved to reduce breast movements to
below 20 mm after a test by participants who carried
out a number of treadmills and field jogging exercises.

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