First Edition, 2012

ISBN 978-81-323-2607-6

© All rights reserved.

Published by:
Orange Apple
4735/22 Prakashdeep Bldg,
Ansari Road, Darya Ganj,
Delhi - 110002
Email: info@wtbooks.com 
 Table of Contents

Chapter 1 - Introduction to a Carpenter

Chapter 2 - How to Become a Carpenter

Chapter 3 - How to Build Wooden Bookshelves

Chapter 4 - How to Build a Hidden Door Bookshelf

Chapter 5 - How to Hang a Door

Chapter 6 - How to Use a Circular Saw

Chapter 7 - How to Build a Shed

Chapter 8 - How to Make a Wooden Table

Chapter 9 - Bush Carpentry

Chapter- 1

Introduction to a Carpenter

Carpenter at work in Tennessee, June 1942

 Two German Carpenters working (1975)

A carpenter (builder) is a skilled craftsperson who performs carpentry. Carpenters work

with timber to construct, install and maintain buildings, furniture, and other objects. The
work may involve manual labor and work outdoors.

Carpentry skill is gained through experience and study. Outside of unions, there are no
formal training requirements (in the U.S.) and the trade can be easy to enter. In other
countries, such as Germany, Japan and Canada there are strict standards.

The word "carpenter" is the English rendering of the Old French word carpentier
(become charpentier) which is derived from the Latin carpentrius [artifex], "(maker) of a
carriage. The Middle English and Scots word (in the sense of "builder") was wright (from
the Old English wryhta), which could be used in compound forms such as wheelwright or
boatwright.
In British slang, a carpenter is sometimes referred to as a "chippie". In Australia, they are
often called "tradies". One of the German words for carpenter is "Zimmermann" from the
Middle High German zimbermann (a compound of zimber, zim(m)er cf. English ‘timber’
+ mann ‘man’), and hence is the source for the surname in German and English-speaking
countries. Other woodworking names/professions, that also occur as a surname, are
Tischler and Schreiner.

Carpentry in the United States is almost always done by men. With 98.5% of carpenters
being male, it was the fourth most male-dominated occupation in the country in 1999.

Types and occupations

A finish carpenter (South America) also called a joiner (traditional name now obsolete
in North America) is one who does finish carpentry; that is, cabinetry, furniture making,
fine woodworking, model building, instrument making, parquetry, joinery, or other
carpentry where exact joints and minimal margins of error are important. Some large-
scale construction may be of an exactitude and artistry that it is classed as finish
carpentry.

Traditional carpenter's tools, Ethnographic Museum of Western Liguria, Cervo, Italy

A trim carpenter specializes in molding and trim, such as door and window casings,
mantels, baseboard, and other types of ornamental work. Cabinet installers may also be
referred to as trim carpenters.

A cabinetmaker is a carpenter who does fine and detailed work, specializing in the
making of cabinets made from wood, wardrobes, dressers, storage chests, and other
furniture designed for storage.

A ship's carpenter specializes in shipbuilding, maintenance, and repair techniques and

carpentry specific to nautical needs; usually the term refers to a carpenter who has a post
on a specific ship. Steel warships as well as wooden ones need ship's carpenters,
especially for making emergency repairs in the case of battle or storm damage.

A scenic carpenter in filmmaking, television, and the theater builds and dismantles
temporary scenery and sets.

A framer is a carpenter that builds the skeletal structure or framework of buildings.

Techniques include platform framing, balloon framing, or timber framing (which may be
post-and-beam or mortise-and-tenon framing).

A carpenter and his mate prepare a door for installation in England (2009)
A luthier is someone who makes or repairs stringed instruments. The word luthier comes
from the French word for lute, "luth".

A formwork carpenter creates the shuttering and falsework used in concrete

construction.

In Japan, Miya-daiku (Temple carpenter) performs the works of both architect and
builder of shrine and temple.

Green carpentry is the specialization in the use of environmentally friendly,energy-

efficient and sustainable sources of building materials to use in construction projects.

Training

Carpenters in an Indian village

Tradesmen in countries such as Germany are required to fulfil a formal apprenticeship

(usually three years) to work as a professional carpenter. Upon graduation from the
apprenticeship, he or she is known as a journeyman carpenter. Up through the 19th and
even the early 20th century, the journeyman traveled to another region of the country to
learn the building styles and techniques of that area before (usually) returning home. In
modern times, journeymen are not required to travel, and the term refers more to a level
of proficiency and skill. Union carpenters in the United States - United Brotherhood of
Carpenters and Joiners of America - are required to pass a skills test to be granted official
journeyman status, but uncertified professional carpenters may be known as journeymen
based on their skill level, years of experience, or simply because they support themselves
in the trade, and not due to certification or formal woodworking education.

After working as a journeyman for a period, a carpenter may go to study or test as a

master carpenter. In some countries, such as Germany or Japan, this is an arduous and
expensive process, requiring extensive knowledge (including economic and legal
knowledge) and skill to achieve master certification; these countries generally require
master status for anyone employing and teaching apprentices in the craft. In others, it can
be a loosely used term to describe a skilled carpenter.

In Canada, each province sets its own standards for apprenticeship. The average length of
time is four years and includes a minimum number of hours of both on the job training
and technical instruction at a college or other institution. Depending on the number of
hours of instruction an apprentice receives, he or she can earn a Certificate of
Proficiency, making them a journeyman, or a Certificate of Qualification, which allows
them to practice a more limited amount of carpentry. Canadian carpenters also have the
option of acquiring an additional Interprovincial Red Seal that allows them to practice
anywhere in Canada. The Red Seal requires the completion of an apprenticeship and an
additional examination.

In the modern British construction industry, carpenters are trained through apprenticeship
schemes where GCSEs in Mathematics, English and Technology help, but are not
essential. This is deemed as the preferred route as young people can earn and gain field
experience whilst training towards a nationally recognized qualification.

Fully trained carpenters and joiners will often move into related trades such as Shop
fitting, frameworking, bench joinery, maintenance and system installation.
Chapter- 2

How to Become a Carpenter

As you look at how to become a carpenter, you can see there are many career paths that
you might follow. Because the field of carpentry has so many options within it, very few
carpenters achieve their skill levels in exactly the same manner as their co-workers. Your
path may depend on the type of educational opportunities available, as well as on-the-job
training opportunities. Many carpenters use a combination of the two to learn how to do
their job.

Steps
Examine Your Basic Skill Set

1. Determine whether you have the strength and stamina to become a

carpenter. This is a job that requires heavy lifting. You can expect to be on your
feet most of the day doing active physical labor. You need good eye-hand
coordination, as well as a good sense of balance.
 2. Examine your core educational strengths. Carpenters need to be able to solve
mathematical problems with ease. They also need good oral communication and
language skills. A good understanding of physical science is also helpful. A
successful carpenter can see the big picture and not just the immediate assigned
task.

Make Use of Vocational Training Programs

1. Talk with your guidance counselor, if you’re still in high school, about
getting into vocational training programs. Some schools offer Building Trades
classes that show you all the various aspects of how to become a carpenter.
2. If vocational programs are unavailable, take basic shop classes to learn how
to safely operate carpentry equipment such as saws and drills.

Receive Post-High School Training as a Carpenter’s Apprentice

1. Enroll in carpentry training classes offered by local community colleges.

These classes are usually part of an apprenticeship program that can apply toward
receiving your journeyman certificate. You can expect to be in the classroom part
of the time learning math, communication and construction skills, as well as
general carpentry knowledge. The rest of your day may either be in a shop setting
or on the job putting your skills to work.
o If classes aren’t an option for you, find work as a beginning carpenter.
Work with contractors who are willing to give you on-the-job training,
which allows you to advance as your skills improve. Work with this
contractor to learn the basics including laying out a new build, form
building, rough framing and outside and inside finishing. Along the way,
expect to learn about basic electrical wiring and plumbing, as well.
2. Look for carpentry apprenticeship programs offered by professional
organizations such as Associated General Contractors, Associated Builders
and Contractors and the National Association of Home Builders.
3. Receive a certificate as a journeyman at the end of your formal
apprenticeship training.

Continue Your Education

1. Take refresher courses periodically to learn about new pieces of equipment

and construction techniques. You can find these courses at local community
colleges. Equipment manufacturers often offer training, as well.
2. Complete college courses toward a degree. With a degree, you can gain the
skills to run your own carpentry business or to become a contractor.

Tips

• Learning a second language, especially Spanish, can help you find jobs in the
carpentry field.
• Many carpenters specialize in one task. If you have multiple areas of expertise,
when the job market becomes tight, you may have more work options open to
you.
Chapter- 3

How to Build Wooden Bookshelves

Always wanted to make some nice bookcases for your basement or bonus room, but don't
want to spend a fortune? We will cover the most basic shelving as well as offer simple
and inexpensive ways to "dress up" your shelving.

Steps

1. Design your
 shelving based on your available space. If you're making built-in bookcases,
measure the space available, both at the bottom and the top- don't assume your
walls are plumb and square. You will want to break up your shelving with vertical
sections every 30" or less- anything more and your shelving will sag. Use no more
than 18" to 24" spans for typical 1" wood. If they do start to sag, you can go back
and cut small square 1" side panels and mount them vertically in the shelf below
for additional support. For built-in bookshelves, design a box to fit the space, and
then plan for vertical sections and the shelves to fit into it. You can build it and
then slide it into place and mount it.

2. Make a shopping list

 for your base frame: 1" x 12" lumber, measuring the length of your outer box,
your vertical supports, and your shelving. Remember most wood comes in 96"
sections, so you will have some waste. If you plan ahead how you're going to cut
them, you can buy some shorter (72") or longer (120") sections to fit your design.
Use poplar or maple over the low-end pine boards, since the knots make the wood
hard to work with and paint.

3. Make a list for your other materials- supporting 1" x 2" strips x the length of
your shelving; 1/8" plywood to cover the back; 4 supporting pins per shelf;
lots of wood screws (standard drywall screws work fine) and small wire
brads to mount the back.; paint;
4. Cut the wood to
 fit the design of the base box. Remember to add/subtract the width of the wood
itself depending on which way your joints lap. Assemble the box and mount on
the plywood backing. Re-measure each vertical section and cut.

5. Drill the necessary holes. Before mounting the

 vertical sections in the box, either drill holes for the supporting pins or cut
grooves (dados) to mount the shelves into. Measure the pin diameter with calipers
and find the right bit for a somewhat loose fit, or do trial and error on a scrap of
wood. Make sure to drill the holes perpendicular to the wood- use a drill press if
you have one. A template to mark the holes is very helpful; If you're not tool-
handy skip this step and you can use L-brackets to hold up the shelves later. It's
ugly, but functional.

6. Mount the vertical sections.

 Test the joints to ensure they are square. Measure each shelf length and cut. Install
pins and test fit. Remove shelves and add 1" x 2" supporting strip to the front for
additional support. Re-install shelves and paint. Optionally, use 1-1/2" x 1/4"
strips along the vertical supports, sides, and top to cover the jointwork.

Tips

• A drill press will allow you to set the depth of the holes for the pins, which is very
handy. If you don't have one, measure half the pin length from the tip of your drill
bit and wrap masking tape around above it, and drill until the tape is flush.
• If you have a framed doorway to a deep closet, you can build two shelves to fit,
mount one on each side using a long brass piano hinge, and create a secret
doorway into the closet. Use magnetic clasps at the top to hold it shut, and use a
 wide overlapping (2" x 1/4") strip at the center where the join to hide where the
two shelves come together (use strips to camouflage the door frame and shelving
joints as well).
• Metal shelf pins are vastly superior to plastic shelf supports. Even cutting your
own wooden dowels for shelf supports is better.
• Paint hides a multitude of woodworking sins.
• If you're covering a wall with a built-in bookshelf, consider this- leave a 4"
section at the bottom, mount utility boxes (protruding 1/4" from the shelving), and
connect receptacles into a nearby outlet circuit. Cover with regular base molding
with holes cut for the utility boxes.

Warnings

• Always follow manufacturer's directions and warnings related to power tools,

especially saws. Never push your hand in the direction of the blade, and keep as
much of your body out of the line of the blade (both forward and backward line).
 • Screw the top of your case into the wall to avoid the possibility of it tipping over
once loaded. This is absolutely essential if you plan to use this shelving in a
child's room. They will try to climb up your new creation at some point in their
lives.
• Always wear safety goggles while using woodworking tools.

Things You'll Need

• Circular saw, radial arm saw, or equivalent

• Workbench or sawhorses
• Drill or drill press
• Screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Carpenter's square
• Sander (optional)
• Pencil
• Materials
• Hammer
• Level
How to Make a Wooden Box
Throughout the ages, wooden boxes have been the choice of mankind whenever
something needed to be protected. Whether the iron-banded wooden treasure chest or the
brass fitting and exotic hardwood of a wooden presentation case, it is all about the box
and the treasure it may contain. Learning how to make a wooden box is often the first
effort for individuals interested in woodworking.

Steps

1. Decide on the type of wood you're going to use. Your first box will most likely
be made from pine. This soft, but durable, wood is easy to work with and readily
available from most home improvement stores.
2. You will need access to power and hand tools as well as adequate work space.
3. Measure and mark the wood for the sides, top and bottom of your box using
a T-square.
4. Use a hand or circular saw to cut the pieces at the marks.
5. Using a butt joint, push up two pieces of wood and attach them together with
nails, screws or wooden dowels. This is done with one piece horizontal and the
other vertical at the end, thus making an "L" shape.
o You can enhance the look of the box by counter-sinking the nails using a
nail punch. You can also make a pilot hole for screws with a counter-sink
drill bit. Follow up by sanding wood putty over the nails and screws so it's
flush with the surface of the wood.
o If you're using dowels, drill a hole through the side of one piece into the
side of another. Use a wooden dowel to pin the pieces together in an "L"
shape. After the sides are pinned, cut the dowel flush with the sides.
6. Make a lid for the box.
o The simplest way is to take a single piece of wood and attach it to the top
edges of the box. Do this by screwing a pair of hinges to the top and back
of the box.
o More difficult, but better looking, is to create the top like you did the
bottom. Cut through three sides of the box using a power saw. Be sure that
the saw cut is below the fasteners or you might damage the blade. Tape
the three cut sides together with masking tape before you cut through the
fourth side. Then complete the cut on the forth side. Attach the hinges of
your choice and you have made a wooden box.
Tips

• Pine comes in several different grades from Select, used in furniture making, to
Number 3, which is commonly used in rough framing and construction.
• Power tools, such as a circular saw and drill, make the job easier, but are not
necessary. You can easily make your box using a screwdriver, carpenter's square,
hand saw and hammer.
• Sketch the size and design of your box. This helps when you are laying out the
wood to be measured and cut. Remember the old adage, measure it twice cut
once.
• Join the sides together using glue between the joints for durability along with the
small gauge finishing nails, wood screws or dowels.
• When laying out he hinges, it is important that you square them to the top and to
the side of the case. Otherwise, the door will not close or open correctly. Follow
the manufacturer's instructions for attaching the hinge you choose.

Things You'll Need

• Carpenter's square
• Hammer
• Hand saw
• Nail punch
• Circular saw (optional)
• Electric drill (optional)
• Wood of your choice
• Glue
• Fasteners (dowel rods, wood screws, or finishing nails)
• Hinges
Chapter- 4

How to Build a Hidden Door Bookshelf

Do you have a door to a storage area or, perhaps, a secret room? What better way to hide
it than to build a bookshelf that not only holds your books and decorations, but also
swings open to provide access to your little hideaway? It not only indulges your inner
mystery-lover, but it also makes extra use of an otherwise unusable and perhaps not
aesthetically pleasing space. What follows is the general process for building a hidden
door bookshelf that, if you have basic welding and carpentry skills, you can customize to
your specifications.
Steps

1.
 Calculate dimensions. Figure out how big and where a bookshelf would need to
pivot in order to clear walls and neighboring shelves with minimum gaps. Make a
scale drawing of shelves and cut out the rotating shelf shape. With a pin try
different pivot ideas, validating measurements. Make sure to calculate the area
between you and the bookshelf when it swings open. You don't want to be hit
when you swing the bookshelf out.

2.
Build a steel frame. Don't hinge the wood shelves directly. A steel frame will
allow the door to swing easily and support 500-1000lbs (a full bookshelf) without
a problem.
 o

Calculate the size for the frame, allowing minimum clearance from the
floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the
metal frame barely below crown. Set the width to just cover the access
door and be centered.
 o

Use 3/4 inch bolts to act as the pivot pins. Weld a piece of scrap quarter
inch plate to pivot points, then weld 3/4 inch bolts to the plate for extra
strength. Cut the bolts to 2 inches long. The steel frame should pivot on a
upper and lower anchor point, mounted to ceiling and floor respectively,
so you will need two bolts welded to the frame.

3. Install the steel frame.

 o

Ceiling anchor

Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists. Add a short arm out to avoid
rocking (scrap steel). The short arm has to align with a joist, as well, or it
will rock and break out the ceiling. Make the pivot point with a 3/4 inch
brass flange bearing inserted into a 1 inch hole in the 2x2 box.
o

Floor anchor

Make a floor anchor in the same way. It can be much smaller than the
ceiling anchor if it will be bolted to a concrete floor.
 o

Position and place the top anchor, base anchor, and frame. Attach the top
anchor loosely letting it rock, slip in the frame and bottom anchor on pin
(with 2 washers on pin above bearing), then slide the whole set into place.
Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in
both directions.
 o

When true, secure bolts on both ends. At the pivot point, split a tiny piece
- about 3/8 inch - of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt. This
keeps the bearing from slipping down.

o Test the swing of the door frame with 500 lbs of people standing in it.
4. Add the wood.
 o

Wooden backing for shelves built into steel frame

Build the first shelf box into the installed frame and verify clearance. You
can make the swinging shelf 2 inches shallower than the other shelves to
allow clearance behind it for the arc when it swung.
 o

Side shelves installed with trim

Build the two side shelves and install trim all around. Use a crcard for
gaps between trim and crown to allow clearance. The trim on the right side
of the shelf-door should be fixed to the fixed shelf, while the left side
moves with the door. Bevel notches in the trim on the right if the
horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens. If necessary, slightly
round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly.

5.
 Install a wooden door stop. This should serve two functions: Hit the steel to
keep the door from closing too far, and hold the door so that it doesn't float open.
The door can be held closed by a magnet.

Tips

• Exact measurements will vary depending on the area in which you're building the
bookshelves, as well as the size of the door you're hiding.
• This particular project can be completed for approximately under US$500, plus
labor. Of course, if you're doing it yourself, the labor cost is zilch, but supplies
may be in duplicate.
Warnings

• Do not attempt this project if you are a welding or carpentry amateur. This is an
advanced do-it-yourself project.
• Do not undertake any major projects or renovations if you are renting, unless you
get prior approval from your landlord.
• Always take proper safety precautions when working with welding equipment and
sharp tools.
• Make sure you are not violating any building codes by hiding the entrance to a
room. Many building codes require, for example, that the entrance to a utility
room with a furnace or gas line be clearly visible, in case of emergency.

Things You'll Need

• Carpentry skills and equipment

• Welding skills and equipment
• Steel 2x2 box tubing (recommend 2"X 2"X 3/16" as less than 3/16" wouldn't
support the weight, 1/4" gets pretty heavy to work with) cut to length with miters
• 3/4" bolts
• 3/4 inch brass flange bearings
• Plumb bob
• Medium density fibre board and particle board
• Wooden door stop
Chapter- 5

How to Hang a Door

Hanging a wooden door in a door frame seems like a simple enough task, but doing it
incorrectly can result in uneven gaps in the spaces around the door or worse, a door that
won't even latch. Following these steps will help you to sidestep possible problems.
Steps

1.

Measure the door opening. Using a tape measure, measure the height and width
of the door opening. Write the measurements down.

2. Purchase a door. The door should be 2" smaller than the rough opening (jack
studs). It should be slightly (1/4") smaller than the finished opening to allow a
margin for closing the door. There is some leeway to also purchase a door that is a
little larger, as you will be trimming it.
3.

Mark the door for trimming. Use a pencil to apply the measurements.
Generally, allow for a 2mm (1/16 inch) space between the door and the top and
 sides. The bottom of the door should be 6-12mm (1/4-1/2 inch) up from the floor
(consider whether the door is going to have to go over carpet or a wooden floor).
If your measurements were 1992 mm (83 inches) high and 768 mm (32 inches)
wide, for example, mark the door so that it's 1984 mm (82 2/3 inches) tall (1992
mm minus 2 mm for the top and 6 mm for the bottom) and 764 mm (31.8 inches)
wide (768 minus 2 mm for each side).

4. Trim the door. Saw or plane up to the pencil marks, then sand the edges until
they are smooth. Keep in mind that you're better off trimming too little rather than
too much.
5.

Check if the door fits. With shallow wedges underneath the door and someone
else to help you hold it up, place the door in the frame and see if it fits properly. If
it doesn't, you will need to trim again until the fit is perfect.

6.
 Place the hinges.

o Determine in which direction the door will open. The door should open in
to the room and hinge placement should be such that the light switch is
accessible on the side opposite the hinges. If, as you enter the room, the
light switch is inside on the wall to your right, then the hinges should be
on the left, so that as you push the door open to enter the room, the switch
is immediately accessible on the knob side of the door.
o Place the door on its side with the hinge side upwards. Measure and mark
15 cm (6 inches) from the top and bottom of the door. This mark
represents the bottom of the hinge at the bottom of the door, and the top of
the hinge at the top.
o Open a hinge and place it on the door in line with the mark you have just
made. Draw around it with a pencil. Repeat this for the other hinge.
7.
 Cut hinge recesses (mortises). Use a chisel to make shallow recesses, called
mortises, in the door, within the pencil marks. Strip away the surplus wood and
trim the recess until the hinge is flush with the wood. Be conservative; if you
chisel out too much, it will be very hard to fix.

8.

Drill pilot holes. With each hinge flap in its mortise, mark the screw positions
with a pencil. Remove the hinges and use a drill bit that is slightly narrower than
your screws to drill pilot holes where they are marked by the pencil. To center the
pilot holes perfectly, use a special bit called a vix bit, available at any hardware
store or home center. When using a vix bit, drill through the hinge's screw holes
with the hinge in its proper location on the door. Keep the bit perpendicular to the
door.

9.
 Screw on the hinges. This is best done with a drill, but can also be accomplished
with a screwdriver if necessary.

10.

Mark the hinge positions on the frame. Place objects such as screwdrivers or
shallow wedges at the bottom of the doorway. Have somebody hold the door in
the frame in exactly the position that you want it to hang. The hinge knuckles
should be parallel with the frame. Draw around the hinges with a pencil.

11.

Chisel hinge recesses. After carefully putting the door aside, cut mortises in the
door frame in the same way that you did on the door itself. Hold the door against
the frame again to test the placement and make sure the hinges are flush.

12.
 Fix hinges to the frame. Mark pilot holes on the frame with a pencil and then
drill through these marks in the same way you did for the door. Put the screws
through the pilot holes to affix the hinges on the frame.

Tips

• When using the plane, avoid chipping out the corners by working inwards from
each edge towards the centre.
• Only put one screw in each hinge to begin with so you can test that the door
closes easily in the frame. If you are happy, then screw in the remaining screws.
• Add the door stop if you are concerned about the door bumping into and marking
the wall behind it. There are many different types of doorstops. One of them can
be constructed as follows:
o With the door shut, mark around the frame at the point where the door
stop needs to be fixed. Then measure across the top of the frame and
transfer this measurement to the wood for the doorstop.

Cut to size. Place the wood across a portable bench or a sturdy surface,
and cut the wood according to your measurements.
 o

Screw the doorstop to the frame. Place the top of the doorstop in
position and drill it in place. Use at least three screws to secure the
doorstop to the frame. When you have successfully fitted the top piece,
repeat this process for the two remaining sides of the doorstop.

Warnings

• Drill Safety: Wear goggles and keep loose items of clothing, hair and jewelery
tucked away. Clear the area of any potential hazards and find a steady standing
position.
• Chisel Safety: Make sure that you are wearing safety goggles and clear the area
of potential hazards. Find a steady standing position and remember to watch your
fingers when you do start chiselling.
• Saw Safety: Put on your goggles. Make sure all loose items of clothing, hair and
jewelery are tucked away. Clear the area of any potential hazards. Find a steady
standing position and remember to watch your fingers when you do start sawing.

Things You'll Need

• some hinges
• some screws
• 1 pencil
• 1 tape measure
• 1 panel saw
• 1 plane
 •

Narrow & medium chisels

1 narrow chisel

• 1 medium-sized chisel
• 1 hammer
• 1 battery drill kit with drill bits
• some sand paper
• some wooden wedges
• safety goggles
• some supports to rest the door on
• some narrow strips of wood for a doorstop

How to Determine Door Handing or the Swing of Your Door

Confused with left and right hand door levers? Read this quick tutorial and learn how to
easily determine the handing of your door so you can order the correct door hardware the
first time.

Steps

1. Open the door that you need hardware for.

2. Stand in the doorway with your back to the hinges. You will be standing
sideways in the opening, looking at the part of the opening where the door latches
into place when closed. Which side of you is the door on?
o

A left-handed interior doorknob.

If the door is on your left hand side, it is a left handed door.

 o

A right-handed interior doorknob.

If the door is on your right side, it is a right handed door.

3.
 Doors that swing outward are an exception. This is a right-handed doorknob.

Check for exceptions. If your door swings outward, this rule will be reversed.
Most exterior doors, such as patio doors, swing outward. If the door to an interior
room swings out into a hallway, you might also need to reverse the rule.

Tips

• The direction of doorknobs has most to do with which way the lock or privacy
lock goes. If you don't have a lock on a door at all, you may not need to worry
about direction. You can just install the doorknob so it points the right way.
• You do not need to determine door handing when ordering doorknobs, deadbolts
and even some levers that are non-handed. Any lever handles that need to have
their handing indicated will have the option upon checking out.
• If you're still not sure, get a picture of a right- or left-handed lever and compare it
to the door where you will put it. Will it point the right way with the lock on the
correct side?
Warnings

• Double check yourself before ordering to save yourself some time and possibly
money making exchanges.
Chapter- 6

How to Use a Circular Saw

Makita 160mm Circular Saw

This type of hand held power saw is a basic tool in a carpenter, builder, or home
renovator's tool kit. The one in the photo is a 160mm (6 1/2inch) blade size. The larger
ones are 235mm blade size. Here are some basic tips and instructions on the proper use of
circular saws.

Steps

1. Understand the different types and sizes of circular saws and their purposes.
Here a few examples:
o 5 inch trim saws, usually with a fine-toothed blade and often with the
blade located on the left side of the motor, for easy viewing of the blade
path. These are available in 120V, AC models, and rechargeable battery
models in various DC voltages.
o 6 1/2 inch saws, as shown in the illustration above, used for cutting to
length nominal lumber for construction, as well as ripping lumber, and
cutting plywood or composite material.
o 7 1/4 inch saws, often call skillsaws, from the name of a major circular
saw manufacturer, Skill. These are the backbone of the construction
industry, used for cutting lumber up to 2 1/4 inch thick. They are used for
cutting framing lumber to length, and ripping lumber. They also have a
number of optional blades which can be used for cutting composite
materials, concrete, ferrous and nonferrous metal sheeting, pipe, tubing,
and even cold-rolled steel bar stock.
 o 8 and 10 inch saws, used for cutting to length larger lumber or timbers, up
to 4 inches thick. These are heavier, more cumbersome tools used mostly
in industrial work.
o Worm-drive saws have a gearbox with a worm-geardrive, and are found in
7 1/4 inch models which are most commonly used for ripping lumber or
cutting plywood decking or sheathing. They typically have the blade on
the left side of the machine, to make watching the blade path easier when
cutting parallel to the edge of a wide sheet of plywood.
2. Look at the features of the saw you are planning to use. The following are
basic functions of some of these features.
o The base plate can be tilted to make angled cuts. Most saws adjust from 90
degrees to slightly less than 45 degrees, making it possible to cut bevelled
ends on boards for corning attachments, hip-roof rafter cuts, and even
miters. Most saws are equipped with a thumbscrew or lever to loosen the
bolt which keeps the saw blade on the correct angle for the cut you are
making, located on the front of the saw. Some are also equipped with a
scale which indicates the blade angle, from '0' (90 degrees, or square to
the board surface) to 45 degrees.
o The blade can be set to the depth required for individual cuts, from less
than 1/8 inch to the full depth the blade is capable of penetrating. The
lever or thumbscrew which locks the base plate at the desired height is
usually located at the rear of the motor on the left side.
o Many circular saws are equipped with a ripping fence, to guide the blade
as you make a rip cut along the edge of a board, giving you a straighter,
parallel cut.
o Dust ejector. A few newer saws are equipped with a dust ejector to blow
the sawdust away from the operator's face and from the mark where the
cut is being made.
o Laser tracking light. Some newer saws are equipped with a laser that
projects a bright, red line down the path of the blade travel. These can also
be purchased to retrofit on older units that are not factory equipped with
them.
o Blade guard. This should be considered a essential safety feature on any
saw, and has two parts, the fixed guard over the top of the blade, and the
floating guard, which rolls out of the way as the saw is pushed into the
work piece. Some have a handle so the blade guard can manually be lifted
for plunge cutting or easier viewing of the cutting mark.
3. Learn the basic types and uses for circular saw blades. They range in blade
composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the
width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality.
o One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed
steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new.
o TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in
tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades
so TCT blades are needed on them.
  Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of
the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with
the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to
buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth.
 Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type
work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances.
o Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials
bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used
for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but
for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts.
o Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with
industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of
the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials,
and masonry products like block or brick.
o Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel
teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet
metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing.
o Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut
different width kerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path).
These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and
rabbetts, used for joining lumber.
o Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making
smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.
4. Support the material you are going to cut so that the blade will not react with
anything underneath the cut as it is made. For example, do not lay a board on a
floor or concrete slab for cutting. Sawhorses or a saw table are normally used for
this purpose.
5. Mark the lumber you are going to cut to length, using a measuring tape,
scaled rule, or stick rule, then use a square (either a steel square, tri-square,
or angle square) to mark the path of the blade travel for the length of your
cut.
6. Set the saw for the proper depth of cut. Don't have much more of the blade
showing than you really need for the job you are doing. So to cut 40mm thick
timber, set your blade to about 45mm or 50mm. This helps to minimize kickback.
7. Keep your saw guard in smooth running condition. It should spring back in
place as soon as you lift the saw off the work. It should slide up smoothly as you
push onto the work. Make sure it's in the DOWN position before you put the saw
down on the bench.
8. Look down the face of the right hand side of the blade and line it up to the
pencil mark when beginning your cut.
9. Look at the front of the saw to the two guide notches. The right hand one is a
guide for cutting with the blade set in the normal position, and the other one is for
when the base angled at 45 deg. Line the notch up to the pencil line.
 10. Start cutting, after a quick check to the front of the blade. (photo 1) Keep
your eye on the guide (photo 2) all the time. This puts you in a natural position
looking forward along the pencil line, and out of the way of any sawdust.
11. Keep an eye on the saw base as you are into the cut. Make sure that you are
keeping the base of the circular saw flat on the timber being cut.
12. Push the saw into the material with enough force to keep the blade cutting,
but avoid pushing so hard the motor speed seems to decrease, or binding
occurs on the blade. A sharp blade should pass through any but the hardest
materials with minimal effort.
13. Be sure the lower blade guard returns to its position when you exit the cut.
Even a blade guard in good condition will occasionally bind if a piece of debris
from the cut becomes lodged in its mechanism.

Tips

• Keep your tools and work area clean.

• Use only the correct size extension cords with your circular saw. Most require a
15 amp cord, so a cord 100 feet in length should be 12 gauge, and grounded tools
must be used with grounded (3 wire) extension cords.
• Don't dismiss the HSS saw blade, though, as so many do, it may come in handy.
It's a good standby. You can always sharpen it yourself, unlike TCT which has to
be sent away.
• The HSS blade will be a lot thinner than a TCT one. If you have your saw set up
in a bench and are ripping thin pieces out of a wide board or sheet, the thinner
blade means less waste.
Warnings

• Be aware of the location of any power cords when operating a saw, keeping them
behind the path of the cut at all times.
• Be aware of where cut off pieces of lumber will fall, to avoid injuries.
• Most the saws in this category are designed for right handed use. That is, when
you are sawing in the normal position, the blade guard is between your face and
the saw blade. If you are a left hander be aware that any chips of sawdust, etc. are
flying out on your side. Don't forget your safety gear. They do make saws for
lefty's.
• Safety glasses or goggles are OK but a full face visor is better.
• Don't use dangerous power tools when there's nobody else there with you. They
don't have to be right there next to you, just somewhere in the area. You want to
make sure that, in case that you injure yourself, there is someone there who can
call 911 for you.
• When you place your wood before cutting, make sure the excess wood (the
smaller piece) is free to fall once cut. If you cut between two points of pressure,
the wood is likely to squeeze the blade once cut, and your more likely to get a
kickback.
• A circular saw will almost always kick strait back. Watch your body position.
Keep slightly to the side, and never keep a hand behind the blade.
Things You'll Need

• Saw benches or other means for supporting material you are cutting.
• Properly sized extension cords.
• Measuring and marking tools.(tape measure, pencil, combo square)
• Basic safety equipment.( safety glasses, dust mask, hearing protection)
Chapter- 7

How to Build a Shed

A sturdy, homemade shed.

A shed solves a lot of storage needs for outdoor tools and equipment. It is also a great
place for work projects that won't clutter up the garage. A shed like the one in here is
very basic and simple to construct. If you are looking for a more stylized shed, you
should go through some of the "Handyman" type magazines.
Steps

Foundation
 Floor Beams

1.
 Floor Joists

2.
 Flooring may also be screwed down with 3" deck screws

3.
 Walls plan view

4.
 Back Wall Elevation

5.
 Front Wall Elevation

6.

Side Walls Elevation

7.
Rafters plan view
Roof Sheeting

Outside Walls
 Roofing

8. plan view

Tips

• All framing is nailed with 16d nails, all sheeting is attached with 8d nails.
• If you plan to finish the inside, you should add an addition stud in each corner for
a nailing surface.
• A ramp instead of stairs will allow you to move wheeled equipment in and out of
the shed.
• There are several advertisers on this page with other plans.
• You may want to install a corrugated fiberglass roof for more light.
Warnings

• Before you begin construction check local laws:

• Your town's building department if a permit is needed.
• Zoning if a shed is allowed.
• Setbacks from your property boundry.
• Please share your shed once you have built it!
Chapter- 8

How to Make a Wooden Table

Making a wooden table is a great entry level project for the beginning woodworker, and
also a complex project for the more experienced carpenter.

Steps

1. Using paper, pencil and a ruler plan out the rough design of your table.
o Use brainstorm sketches first, don't worry about dimensions.
o Once you have settled on a rough design, pencil in some rough
dimensions. Your dimensions will vary based on the kind of table you
intend to construct. In other words, a dining table will have different
dimensions than a bedside table.
o Consider where you intend to place the table when creating your
dimensions. It doesn't have to be any size other than the size you need.
2. Using your rough dimensions figure out how much wood you will need.
Always add a little extra, just in case.
3. Purchase your wood. For most beginners using a soft wood like pine is a good
place to start. For a slightly better finish try poplar. If your table will be used
outdoors consider redwood or treated woods.
4. Construct the table top. There are two ways to do this:
1. Using planking. The advantage of planking is that it is less expensive than
a single sheet. Tongue and groove planking is easiest, but if you can use a dowel
or biscuit cutter to create a butt joint then you might consider that route for a flat
top.
2. Use a single sheet of wood. If you go this route save some money and use
hard wood veneered construction plywood.
5. Cut, glue and clamp your table top and leave overnight.
6. Create the undertable. The undertable is a basic square of wood that attaches to
the table top and helps support the legs, preventing them from moving from side-
to-side. To create the undertable:
0. Measure in from the edge of your table top a few inches. The exact width
will vary depending on the dimensions of your table. Make a mark at your
position.
1. Turn the table top over and draw a square on the bottom of your table at
your mark.
2. Cut two pairs of wood for the two front pieces and the two side pieces.
3. Glue and clamp these pieces at your lines on the underside of the table.
You may choose to screw these into the table top either permanently or to
help hold until the glue sets if your clamps do not have the depth they
need to reach your inset.
7. Create the legs.
0. Cut one leg to the size you wish.
1. Cut the three other legs to the approximate size.
2. Clamp all four legs together.
3. Cut all four legs to the same length while they are clamped together, using
the first leg as a guide.
4. Sand your table legs using a power sander so they are smooth and ready
for a fine sand. Be careful not to sand the top or bottom of the legs as this
is likely to ruin your right angle cuts.
8. Attach the legs.
0. Turn the table upside down if it is not there already.
1. Place the first leg in one corner of the undertable with the top flat against
the underside of the table top and the sides flat against the undertable.
2. Apply glue to the top of your leg and to the interior side of the undertable
that will butt against the leg.
3. Secure the legs by fastening screws — do not use nails — through the
undertable and into the leg.
4. Check that your legs are at a right angle to the table top. Adjust the screws
as necessary.
5. Repeat for the rest of the legs.
 6. Once everything is set up and square, glue and clamp the legs in place.
7. Optionally, you can place a screw into the top of the leg from the top side
of your table, however, this is often unsightly, and you risk splitting the
tops of your legs by nailing or screwing into the end wood.
9. Wait until all the glue is fully dry.
10. Turn the table over and see if it is stable by placing it on a known level floor
and trying to make it wobble as best you can.
11. Sand your table to whatever degree of finish you find pleasing.
12. Optionally, apply some kind of wood treatment like stain, varnish or tung oil.

Tips

• When cutting the wood for the undertable and legs cut one piece first, clamp that
piece to the other and then cut them both to the same length. Relying on
measurements makes it all too easy to get two pieces of wood of slightly differing
lengths. Consider using the same technique when power sanding.
• When placing a screw always drill a pilot hole when making furniture, especially
on lumber of an inch or less in any dimension, to avoid splitting your wood.
• Never use nails with furniture, they will split your wood and using a hammer well
requires far more skill than most people suppose. Screws are also stronger and can
be removed if you make a mistake.
• Ask your wood supplier for his or her advice; they usually know what they are
doing.
 • You can purchase and download table plans online that usually include fully
dimensioned drawings.
• Consider using recycled or waste woods. You can find these on the street or at
construction sites. It takes a little extra work to dimension the lumber, but it saves
trees and can also produce fabulous finishes not possible with wood from fresher
cuts.

Warnings

• Watch out for fumes from the stain.

• Be careful with your tools! Anyone with any sense will be pretty safe, but always
be aware that you are human, so you will make mistakes.
• Follow basic tool safety: use ear and eye protection when using any tools, but
especially power tools. Wear a dust mask and long sleeves -- wood dust is an
allergen and may cause cancer. Never place your hands in front of a cutting tool
of any kind.
Things You'll Need

• A power screwdriver and drill

• Wood screws or drywall screws of the correct lengths
• A large selection of clamps
• Wood glue, either "white" or yellow glue will work. Slightly more expensive is
Gorilla Glue as it is an excellent glue and unlike traditional wood glue waterproof
and suitable for outdoor projects
• A sander and sandpaper(s)
• Wood
• Proper stain
Chapter- 9

Bush Carpentry

Bush Carpentry is an expression used in Australia and New Zealand that refers to
improvised methods of building or repair, using available materials and an ad hoc design,
usually in a pioneering or rural context.

The tradition

The phrase 'bush carpentry' is a familiar Australian usage, but finding an exact
description of its practice is rare. The Macquarie Dictionary for example, defines a bush
carpenter as a rough amateur carpenter, and G. A. Wilkes says he is a rough and ready
carpenter. The Macquarie in turn defines rough-and-ready as rough, rude or crude, but
good enough for the purpose. Wannan says that a bush carpenter is 'a very rough,
unorthodox artisan indeed', and includes a sardonic excerpt from Henry Lawson to
exemplify it. In his Bushcraft series Ron Edwards describes hut and furniture building,
and 'stockcamp architecture', without once using the phrase 'bush carpentry', though
'rough and ready' recurs. Tocal Agricultural College offers a course in 'Traditional bush
timber construction'; The word 'traditional' appears six times in the course outline, but not
'bush carpentry'.

Bush carpentry may lack a literature due to its perceived inferiority as a practice.

Cox and Lucas, writing in 1978 of Australian pioneer buildings, remarked:

"... perhaps because it has been the symbol of hardship and country toil; perhaps because
it was thought too crude and rude to be treated seriously as architecture by the
academics... there have been few books and articles written on the subject... The
vernacular, often, is a fragile architectural form, evolved for expedience and resulting -
especially in the case of the more primitive examples - in early decay and
disappearance... designed by an amateur, a builder with little training in design and who
will be guided by a strict set of conventions developed within his own locality, perhaps
paying some attention to fashion, but local only and certainly not international. Within
the vernacular building, function is the dominant factor.

A similar and familiar phrase is traditional bush carpentry; this implies that its principles
are well-known, but informally transmitted. Like folk music, bush carpentry exists within
an oral and demotic culture, and is often undocumented. The tradition of Australian
inventiveness, however, has an extensive literature:

"... vigorous attitudes to innovation prevailed in the Colonies in the nineteenth century
and established for Australia some significant technological leads. Lessons from these
attitudes both underline the continuing importance of the 'lone inventor' and hold
relevance for education, management, and technology policies today."

There is sometimes a sardonic sense included in the phrase 'bush carpentry', one which
implies slip-shod work by a careless practitioner, who also neglects maintenance.

Henry Lawson, "A Day on a Selection" (1896):

'The dairy is built of rotten box bark - though there is plenty of good stringy-bark within
easy distance - and the structure looks as if it wants to lie down and is only prevented by
three crooked props on the leaning side; more props will soon be needed in the rear for
the dairy shows signs of going in that direction. The milk is set in dishes made of
kerosene-tins, cut in halves, which are placed on bark shelves fitted round against the
walls. The shelves are not level and the dishes are brought to a comparatively horizontal
position by means of chips and bits of bark, inserted under the lower side. The milk is
covered by soiled sheets of old newspapers supported on sticks laid across the dishes.
This protection is necessary, because the box bark in the roof has crumbled away and left
fringed holes - also because the fowls roost up there. Sometimes the paper sags, and the
cream may have to be scraped off an article on dairy farming.'
"The bush"

Bush timber supporting deck of Maldon Suspension Bridge

In Australian parlance, 'the bush' includes not only all remote and rural areas, but ways of
living there, especially the limitations and hardships endured. Even though remote areas
in contemporary Australia are easily reachable by air and modern communications, there
remains a mythology of the tyranny of distance: tyranny over comfort, sophistication,
over civilization itself. The expression bush carpentry includes two criteria of
'remoteness'. The first, that the builder is separated (by lack of formal training) from
regular methods of construction. The second, separation (by physical distance) from
regular resources such as milled timber, fasteners, specialized tools, and similar
manufactured products. Those in both 'remote' circumstances are forced to invent and
improvise. They produce a necessary structure or object via unorthodox procedures, and
it will be serviceable, if inelegant in appearance.
 Adze

Thus, in an Australian suburb today, a self-taught handyman might devise and erect a
backyard structure using purchased timber, and practising 'bush carpentry' - a gazebo, a
fernery, a children's playhouse for example - while at the same time, a skilled
tradesperson, in a distant run of an outback cattle station, might be forced to use heavy
tree-trunks, saplings, undressed stone and rusty fencing-wire to construct a stock race.

Augers
These two criteria allow the use of manufactured materials - e.g. milled timber - in an
irregular manner, and materials other than wood (stone and iron, for example). They
exclude the fabrication of large structures like wharves and bridges, built by contracting
tradesmen, which incorporate massive tree trunks, even when a manufactured item, e.g. a
steel beam, is available.

Skills

The Australian Aborigines were probably the first 'bush carpenters'. Although they did
not build dwellings, they certainly built shelters to keep off rain, sun and wind, using
available materials. From the Aborigines, European settlers learned how to strip bark in
large sheets from particular tree species, and use this for roofs and walls.

The skills required are minimal, but they must be well-mastered and neatly executed.
Bush carpenters may learn from observing the methods, or the evidence of, another
person's work, or entirely through their own invention. The scarcity of any reference
books with any local applicability is another factor.

Ron Edwards asserts that no training at all is required. The requisites are 'a calm mind,
reasonable health, and a willingness to learn'. Edwards points out that the early settlers
built their homes without prior knowledge and experience, and 'many of these buildings
are still in existence a century later'. Edwards adds, 'Confidence in your own ability is the
first requirement... the second is access to knowledge'

Axe
In his autobiography, Sam Weller remarked of a young man who had worked for a period
as a jackaroo:

"The bush is one of the best educations a young fellow can get if he's interested. That
bloke knows livestock, knows how to work them, can cut a straight line with a saw,
handle concrete, build a set of yards, fix a motor car - you name it. When you're a
hundred miles from town, you can't afford to get a tradesman out for every little job that
bobs up. So you've got to slip in and do it yourself... One of the bosses from a cattle
station told me "Sam, if a bloke comes in here in a big hat and ringer boots, he's got a job.
They can turn their hands to anything. They know how to work and they don't gutsache
all the time."

Tools

Thomas Rowlandson: Naval carpenter, 1799

The bush carpenter historically possessed few tools, and rarely any specialized tools.
Mann's Emigrant's Guide of 1849 suggests that those heading for Australia's unsettled
areas take with them a plentiful supply of a wide variety of tools and fasteners, but he
lists as the very minimum, 'A hand saw; Axe; Adze; Mortising chisel; Two augers, 1 and
11/4 inch; Two maul rings; Set of wedges; 1 Spade; Pick-axe; Two-foot rule; Chalk line;
Square; A Plumb Bob.' A majority of early settlers had formerly been manual labourers,
or servicemen, and brought with them a sound practical ability and aptitude for 'making
do'; others observed or helped and copied their techniques.

Broadaxe

Freeland observes:

'With a saw, an axe, a hammer and a spade on his cart and possibly one of the useful little
books on construction written especially for him... he had to do the best he could with the
materials that were to hand wherever he stopped. Helped a little by his book, a fair
amount by advice and precedent and a great deal by ingenuity and native wit, the settlers
developed a surprising number of variations on standard constructional materials and
techniques.'
 Chalkline

Ron Edwards' 1987 list of suggested tools to construct 'stockcamp architecture' include
only an axe, pliers, a hammer and 'perhaps an auger'. Edwards also demonstrates the
technique of the Cobb & Co. hitch for tightening fencing wire that fastens structural
elements(See Fig. 2 below).

With the upsurge in Australia of the restoration of so-called 'Heritage items', the
techniques of Australian bush carpentry may be moving closer to formal identification
and categorization. Tocal College's 2002 list of tools for its 'Traditional bush timber
construction' course includes the broadaxe, adze, sledge hammer and wedges, morticing
axe, froe and mallet, draw knife, and hand auger.

Some tools used for bush carpentry

Handsaw
Drawknife

Wedge
Froe
Maul
Pick-axe
 Try Square

Design and materials

Structures or objects such as furniture created using bush carpentry techniques often have
minimal or even an ad hoc design. Projects built according to properly drawn plans, for
example, architectural blueprints, cannot be called examples of bush carpentry. The
design of a barn or shed is likely to be intuitive and functional; the settler's slab hut
derived from the vernacular English crofter's hut, a simple rectangular walled shelter with
one door, and perhaps holes to allow air to enter.

Historically, the materials at hand for Australian settlers usually included a plentiful
supply of hardwood, in the form of fully-grown trees and saplings, bark, brush or grass,
clay, mud and stone. The classic Australian bush carpentry image is the forked tree trunk
used as an upright.

Nails, bolts or screws were often not available; wooden pegs, wire, or strips of greenhide
might be used as fasteners. Greenhide strips might also be used as hinges for doors or
shutters. Ron Edwards comments that 'Fencing wire was a very popular resource because
it was always available. Bolts and long nails were expensive, and had to be ordered from
town... a shed or stockyard would be fastened together with wire and would be stronger
than one that was nailed.'
Less usual building materials include flattened steel kerosene containers used as wall
cladding, or such containers filled with sand and used as building blocks. Sheets of
hessian have also been used as walls, for coolness.

The etymology of the word carpenter shows that it derives from 'a carriage maker', and
later, 'one who builds frameworks'; thus, the term 'bush carpentry' does not necessarily
imply that wood is the only material involved.

Examples of bush carpentry in situ

This machinery shed located at Maldon, NSW provides several examples of bush
carpentry practice. Despite its amateur constructional methods and ad hoc design, it is not
yet in danger of collapse. The shed can be tentatively dated to 1900-1915, but subsequent
repairs have used materials manufactured in later decades; it may also incorporate
materials from an older structure on the original site.

Fig. 1: The frame is Fig. 2: Fencing wire is Fig. 3: The peaked roof has
constructed from the trunks frequently used as a fastener. conventional ridge-pole
of trees and saplings, The Cobb & Co. hitch is framing, using milled timber.
 probably obtained in the much in evidence.
nearby Maldon Gorge.

Fig. 5: The top-plate in the Fig. 6: Rough-cast plinths of

concrete have been used as
Fig. 4: The only joinery in eastern wall is a length of
footing for the uprights. Some
use is the half-lap; there are steel pipe. Some steel pipes
are used as uprights. have been cast directly on the
a few housing joints.
ground.

Fig. 8: Instead of trusses or

joists to brace the walls and
support the roof, strands of Fig. 9: The northern gable-end
fencing wire are stretched was fashioned by nailing
Fig. 7: One such footing between the top-plates and sheets of galvanized iron onto
consists of a 44-gallon drum tensioned with turnbuckles. a sub-frame. Insecurely
filled with concrete. fastened to the main structure,
it has fallen out.

Fig. 11: These split slabs

Fig. 10: Steel bolts secure may derive from an older,
the main structural drop-slab structure. Nail Fig. 12: A concrete footing is
members. One was too long, holes are present, and the used instead of, or has
and a spacing block has ends have been chamfered. replaced, a bottom-plate.
been used as a washer.

Influence on Australian architecture and art

Cox & Freeland believe that early structures created using bush carpentry had a profound
influence on Australian industrial architecture:
"Because they are uncomplicated buildings, built by unlettered people in the most direct
way, using the materials readily to hand, they often have a character and honesty that are
rare and sometimes missing from their more erudite architectural betters. Because they
are made of a material with which everyone has a deep-rooted harmony, because they are
put together in ways that are easily understood and because their forms are readily
comprehended, they are universal buildings whose roughness and even whose frequent
dilapidation give them a powerful emotional appeal and impact. They are buildings to be
felt rather than reasoned... Cement works, mines, the railways and factories spawned a
large variety of store houses and storage bins, towers and poppet heads, workshops and
condensers. Framed up in peeled tree trunks or massive balks of hardwood bolted
together, their skeletons of columns, beams and braces had the same forthrightness and
frankness of the rural buildings.... sited out in the country where they would seldom be
seen, or in ugly industrial areas, or along the waterfront where buildings were not
expected to be beautiful they, like the rural buildings, were built with an eye solely to
meeting their utilitarian purpose in the most direct and purposeful way. Because of this,
they frequently succeeded in being outstandingly beautiful. Through the industrial
buildings, the functional tradition of the countryside unknowingly and unconsciously was
passed into the twentieth century.

The cartoons of Eric Jolliffe, especially those based on his character Saltbush Bill include
many examples of bush carpentry; the farm where much of Saltbush Bill is set has
houses, furniture and other rural structures - barns, stockyards, gallows - all built using
bush carpentry means and materials. Joliffe set himself the task of preserving much of
Australia's rural heritage by producing sketches and paintings of such structures.