MIXOLOGY
VODKA
Stalwart Spirit
Vodka’s popularity at the bar has stood the test of time
BY SALLY KRAL
D
espite attempts in recent years from many mixologists
to push vodka out of the spotlight in favor of other
choices like whisk(e)y and gin, the neutral grain spirit
continues to reign supreme with most consumers.
“The rise of professional bar programs bred bartenders with
a disdain for vodka for the very reason that it became popular
in the first place: its lack of flavor,” says Dustin Newsome, bar
manager at Bar Clacson in Los Angeles. “Vodka wasn’t seen
as a noble spirit, and was widely regarded as a ‘less-than’ prod-
uct made for the nightclub and college town palates.”
But Newsome notes that the bar industry has gradually
evolved out of this phase and become more open to vodka,
specifically because it continues to be so popular among
consumers. “I’m thankful those days are over,” he says. “The
focus has shifted back to our guests; it’s
now about making them the best drink for
their tastes, not ours. Most professionals
no longer turn up their noses at vodka, and
are really doing some pretty outstanding
things with it.”
Indeed, while many spirits are praised for
their complexity and layered flavors, vodka
is appreciated for quite the opposite reason:
Its largely neutral flavor allows it to marry
well with a plethora of ingredients in just
about any cocktail application.
“Vodka is great to work with because it’s
approachable to guests,” says Dorothy
Rondomanski, bartender at Urban Farmer in
Philadelphia. “It has made such a grounding in our world it
would be impossible to dismiss it. Many times we can’t talk a
guest out of ordering it no matter our recommendations. Some
people just prefer that clean, simple spirit.”
Vincenzo Colafella, beverage director at Boston restaurant
Il Molo, similarly doesn’t see vodka’s popularity dwindling
anytime soon, despite attempts from certain bars. “Cocktail
lists, depending on what city one is in, usually tend to favor
gin, Tequila, and Bourbon-based drinks,” he says. “That being
said, consumers will still always be loyal to vodka and will ask
for it every time.”
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Though to many palates vodka may seem to have no flavor
at all, experienced mixologists recognize that each vodka
brand is in fact distinct and carries subtle, nuanced character
and texture.
“It’s interesting to compare different vodkas—to the discern-
ing palate, differences can include mouthfeel, slight undertones
of a particular brand such as citrusy or peppery elements, and
overall refinement of the spirit,” Newsome notes. With vodka,
simple recipes are his go-to and he’s happy to see others embrace
minimalist vodka tipples. “More and more bartenders are
making subtle cocktails and choosing vodkas that truly add to
the balance of flavor, taking into consideration the brand’s
particular viscosity and delicate notes,” he says. “It’s much
easier to consume three easy-drinking Vodka Sodas than
it is to gulp down three super complicated,
seven-ingredient magnum opus libations of
an overzealous bartender’s dreams.”
Newsome’s Espresso Martini ($13) blends
Volstead vodka, Krogstad aquavit, house-made
espresso syrup, and Fernet Leopold Highland
amaro. “We will likely always have this Espresso
Martini on our menu,” Newsome says. “It’s our
most popular vodka-based cocktail. We use a
vodka called Volstead from House Spirits,
based out of Portland, Oregon, which filters
the spirit through charred coconut husks.”   PHOTOS BY (THIS PAGE) NEIL BERTUCCI; (OPPOSITE LOWER RIGHT) LEO ARBOINES
Il Molo’s Colafella appreciates vodka’s abil-
ity to “speak for itself” as a base spirit without
overpowering the other elements of the drink.
“There isn’t a requirement to go overboard with ingredients to
counterbalance the taste because vodka incorporates itself into
a cocktail with pure perfection.” His Rosé Wharf ($14) blends
Hangar 1 Rosé vodka, St. Elder elderflower liqueur, fresh lemon
juice, and Bellussi Prosecco.
Bartenders are free to take creative liberties with vodka (Prairie
Organic-based The Wicked Green pictured above), concocting such
drinks as (opposite, clockwise from top left): the blueberry-centric
Blueberry Ginger Mule, Thai coconut milk-infused Matter of Habit,
guava-led The Diana, and grapefruit-forward Texas Greyhound.
 “For a while vodka was pushed to the side and gin and “One of the vodka staples at our bar is Tito’s Handmade,” Colorado—Gosling’s ginger beer, and lime
Bourbon were the stars, but vodka cocktail culture is back says Urban Farmer’s Rondomanski. “The love for American juice. “I love working with local distilleries
and stronger than ever,” says Tony Fuentes, head bartender vodka has been surging. Whether it can attributed to patrio- that use fresh spring water to make their
at No. 3 Social in Miami. The bar’s best-selling vodka cock- tism or an appreciation for the ‘hand-made’ or the ‘gluten- vodka,” Manske says. “The Spring 44 Honey
tails are his Matter of Habit ($14), featuring Ketel One vodka, free’ labeling, I’ve witnessed many guests choosing this vodka adds a natural sweetness that can brighten up
fresh pressed lime juice, simple syrup, Thai coconut milk, over all others regardless of price and more well-known alter- any cocktail.”
fresh mint, and Fee Brothers Rhubarb bitters, and his Late natives.” The Honeysuckle ($14), by bartender Adam Reed, At Minneapolis restaurant Bardo, bartender
Bloomer ($14), comprising Zubrowka bison grass vodka, is made with Tito’s, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, house- Sarah Timmer reaches for the locally made
St-Germain elderflower liqueur, fresh pressed green apple made jasmine syrup, and lemon juice. Prairie Organic for her vodka-based drinks.
juice, simple syrup, and basil. “I’m currently really into “For a long time vodka had the reputation of being that Her Dill With It ($12) blends the brand with
Zubrowka—I love the herbaceous flavor,” Fuentes says. “It’s cheap spirit that was the base of many candy-flavored drinks,” Gamle Ode Dill aquavit, Yellow Chartreuse
smooth and aromatic and goes well with herbs and citrus.” Rondomanski adds. “Now, as the distilling world is growing liqueur, Giffard Apricot liqueur, house-made
As vodka’s popularity holds strong, a range of new labels more rapidly every year, we’re being offered some beautifully kumquat-dill syrup, and lime juice, while her
have entered the market, offering bartenders plenty of differ- crafted vodkas that we don’t want to mask and cover up—we Wicked Green ($12) mixes the brand with
ent styles to work with from all different parts of the country want to taste the flavors and compliment them, and mix them Rhum Clément Créole Shrubb orange
and world. “In recent years we’ve moved away from artifi- with care.” The Farmer #4 ($14) mixes the Philadelphia-made liqueur, Fresno chili-infused green tea, orange
cially flavored vodka and are focusing more on high-quality Stateside Urbancraft vodka, St. Elder, grapefruit and lime and lemon juices, and Angostura bitters.
crafted spirits,” notes Ardit Dizdari, general manager of juices, and Peychaud’s bitters. The drink was created by Bran- “We’ve seen mixologists—professional and
Southport & Irving in Chicago. He adds that as consumers don Wise, vice president of beverage operations for Sage amateurs alike—really fall in love with our
have grown to appreciate the nuances of vodka, they’re more Restaurant Group, which owns Urban Farmer. vodka,” says Scott Meek, vice president of
drawn to spirit-forward Martini variations. Dizdari’s 50/50 At Il Molo, “Tito’s is definitely king,” Colafella says. “It’s marketing for Phillips Distilling, which
Martini ($11) blends Crystal Head vodka with Ransom Dry my favorite brand without a doubt. In addition to being produces the Prairie lineup. “The fact that we
vermouth. “I really like Crystal Head because it has a lot of gluten-free, which appeals to a large community today, it’s use 100% USDA-certified organic corn from
character,” Dizdari says. “Its notes of citrus and vanilla work very smooth. It works well in cocktails because it doesn’t have local farmers that we know really resonates.”
wonders in a Martini.” a harsh or aggressive taste like some other brands.” Colafella’s At Cherry Pie Hospitality-owned restaurants
Moscow Summer ($13) is a twist on the classic Moscow Mule, State Fare Kitchen & Bar and Star Fish in
Local Love featuring Tito’s, Gosling’s ginger beer, and lime and pome- Houston, the Blueberry Ginger Mule ($10)
As consumers become more educated about specific spirits granate juices. features Deep Eddy Straight and Lemon
brands they’re quick to become loyal to certain labels, and At Viewhouse Eatery, Bar & Rooftop in Denver, vice pres- vodkas, house-made blueberry cordial, and Vodka’s neutral nature lends itself to a variety of cocktails, including the 50/50 Martini
mixologists note that American-made vodkas are hugely ident and beverage director Brad Manske’s Moscow Mule Goya ginger beer. Cherry Pie beverage direc- (pictured top left), the Moscow Summer (right), and The Honeysuckle (bottom left).
popular right now. ($10) blends Spring 44 Honey vodka—a brand produced in tor Laurie Harvey created the drink. “My
favorite brand of vodka to work with is Deep Eddy, which they At Southport & Irving, the current cocktail menu is inspired
handcraft in small batches in Austin,” she says. “Deep Eddy by the book Around the World in 80 Days and one of the
Vodka-Based Cocktail Recipes also makes fun flavored vodkas like Ruby Red Grapefruit, best-selling drinks is the Victoria’s Opium Den ($12)—made
Lemon, and Orange made with all-natural ingredients. These by Dizdari—which is a complex smoked cocktail made with
50/50 MARTINI FARMER #4 GARDEN VARIETY are great bases for fancier cocktails, especially because the Crystal Head vodka, Grand Poppy amaro, St. George Bruto
By Ardit Dizdari By Brandon Wise By Laurie Harvey natural flavors pair more smoothly with other ingredients than Americano liqueur, lime juice, house-made tamarind syrup,
artificially flavored vodkas.” At State Fare, her Texas Grey- and Bar Keep Chinese five-spice bitters.
Ingredients: Ingredients: Ingredients: hound ($10) mixes Deep Eddy Ruby Red Grapefruit with “Consumers enjoy great craft cocktails that are sourced
1½ ounces Crystal Head vodka; 1½ ounce Stateside Urbancraft vodka; 1½ ounces Thai chili-infused Deep Eddy
1½ ounces Ransom Dry vermouth; ¾ ounce St. Elder elderflower liqueur; Straight vodka1; house-made vanilla syrup, fresh lime and ruby red grapefruit locally, feature fresh ingredients like vibrant herbs and
Lemon twist. ¾ ounce grapefruit juice; 1 ounce lemongrass-cucumber-ginger juices, and Topo Chico mineral water. spices and developed using unique processes,” says View-
¾ ounce lime juice; cordial2; House’s Manske. He adds that, because of its simplicity,
Recipe:
Combine vodka and vermouth in a mixing
4 dashes Peychaud’s bitters. ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice;
¾ ounce fresh lime juice;
Cocktail Chameleon vodka enables “expanded creativity behind the bar because
glass and stir. Strain into a chilled coupe Recipe: Splash club soda; Lemongrass stalk; Though vodka shines in simple cocktails with minimal ingre- you can easily manipulate it using interesting techniques
glass. Garnish with lemon twist. Combine vodka, liqueur, and juices in a Lime wheel; Thai chili. dients, it’s versatile enough to work in more complex, multi- such as infusions, which continue to rise in popularity.” His
cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain layered concoctions. At The Rez Grill at the Seminole Hard Blue Basil ($10) blends blueberry-infused Spring 44 vodka,
into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with Recipe: Rock Hotel & Casino in Tampa, Florida, assistant general house-made sweet-and-sour mix, fresh basil and blueberries,
Peychaud’s bitters. Combine vodka, cordial, and juices in a
cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into manager Lorenzo Cardei doesn’t shy away from elaborate and soda water.
a Collins glass filled with crushed ice. Top cocktail builds: The Diana ($12) features Tito’s vodka, guava At State Fare, Harvey’s Garden Variety ($10) comprises
with club soda and garnish with a lemongrass juice, Rothman & Winter crème de violette liqueur, and fruit Thai chili-infused Deep Eddy vodka, house-made lemon-
PHOTO BY (TOP LEFT) ARDIT DIZDARI

stalk, lime wheel, and Thai chili.   caviar, and his Nacho Libre ($12) comprises Western Son grass-cucumber-ginger cordial, fresh lemon and lime juices,
1Add
Prickly Pear vodka and house-made sour mix, which is poured and club soda. “The possibilities for flavor profiles in a
6-8 sliced Thai chilis to 1-liter vodka. Let sit for up to 24 hours, depending on preferred spice level, and then strain.
2Bring1 cup water to a soft boil. Stir in 2 cups sugar until dissolved. Add 5 cleaned and pounded lemongrass stalks, the skin of 2 English
over an ice cube infused with hibiscus extract and Del Maguey vodka-based drink are endless,” Harvey says. “It doesn’t
cucumbers, and 2 ounces sliced ginger with skin left on. Let gently boil for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Let steep for 2 to 4 hours, Vida mezcal. “Vodka is the chameleon of spirits; it adapts to compete with other ingredients so you’re free to take your
and then strain. anything you mix it with,” says James Manuel, general cocktail in any flavor direction, whether it be fruity, spicy,
manager of The Rez Grill. floral, or citrus.” mw

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