10/7/2018 Tutorial: How to Paint Tau ­ Tale of Painters

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TUTORIAL: HOW TO PAINT TAU

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This is a tutorial explaining how to paint the classic Tau Sept scheme using the latest Games Workshop ETERNALS
paints. The model above was painted in 18 steps. I break each step down with a high resolution picture and LIBERATOR
detailed instructions. Read the full tutorial after the jump.

I've designed this tutorial so established painters nd it interesting but also so new comers to the hobby
can learn some basic and advanced techniques. I will use terms such as glazing and washing, don't worry if
you don't know what these mean because I will elaborate and explain during that step.
REVIEW: INSTAR
Paints you will need for this tutorial: PAINT RANGE
Black Undercoat spray (I use Vallejo Surface Primer) TUTORIAL: HOW TO
Rhinox Hide (base)
PAINT 40K RUINED
BUILDINGS
Gorthor Brown (layer)
Baneblade Brown (layer)
Agrax Earthshade (shade)
Tau Light Ochre (layer)
Skrag Brown (layer) REVIEW: THE ELDAR
Zemesi Desert (layer) COLLECTION BY JES
Screaming Skull (layer) GOODWIN
The Fang (base) TUTORIAL: HOW TO (ASURYANI &
Russ Grey (layer) SCRATCH BUILD DRUKHARI
Mephiston Red (base) RUINED BUILDINGS SKETCHBOOKS)
Jokaero Orange (base)
Flash Gitz Yellow (layer)
Ceramite White (base)
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We jump straight into the tutorial with an assembled Fire Warrior who has been undercoated black.  ve more characters for this army and...
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1. First step is to paint the trousers, sleeves, gloves and balaclava under the helmet faceplate with Rhinox
Hide. This is a base paint so goes on with one coat with no need to water down.
2. Now we need to paint the highlights onto the previous layer. We do this by painting Gorthor Brown onto
all the raised areas of the cloth leaving Rhinox Hide in the recesses.
3. Highlight the previous stage further using Baneblade Brown.
4. The highlights are a little too bright for military cloth which should be a bit duller and not shiny at all.
 use Agrax Earthshade to wash over all the cloth areas. This is tone down the colour by tinting it brown. It Segui
also helps blend the colours a little.

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5. Paint all the armour and the weapon's body with Tau Light Ochre. This is a layer paint so has less Element Games offer up to 25% off GW products
pigment in it then a base paint. So you will need to paint three thin coats to achieve an even smooth coat. with a fast same day dispatch. Free UK shipping
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Do not paint on one thick coat it will cover detail and look lumpy. Each of the three coats should be shipping starting at only £2.95!
watered down slightly to keep it smooth. Wait for each coat to be dry before painting the next coat.
6. We're going to use Skrag Brown in two different ways for this step. Firstly line all the armour joints by
painting slightly watered down Skrag Brown into all the lines between the armour. If you accidentally miss,
you can usually wipe off a stray brush stroke with a nger if you're quick.  Secondly you need to use
Lahmian Medium to to turn Skrag Brown into a Glaze. The ratio should be 4 parts Lahmian Medium to 1
part Skrag Brown. Use this glaze mix to shade the at armour plates. If you look at the close up you'll see
I've shaded the upper parts of the armour panels. 
7. Use 1 part Lahmian Medium to 1 part Zamesi Desert mix to highlight the lower quarter of the panels and
the top of the helmet. The Tale of Painters Blog Network is a
8. Paint all the upper edges with Screaming Skull. Edge highlighting is easiest when you use the side of the great way to discover awesome hobby
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Another wargaming blog

Oldhammer fun with the Nightmare
9. Tau skin should be painted with The Fang. One coat straight from the pot is ne. Legion and metal zombies followed
10. Highlight the skin with Russ Grey. A few horizontal lines to represent creases work perfectly.  by a dash of heresy - With the in ux
11. OSL is an acronym for Object Source Lighting. It is a term used by painters to describe glow effects. of new old models I decided to shove all the
Most people over do source lighting and it doesn't look realistic for the simple fact the model has been other projects aside and have a little

Oldhammer fun painting the Nightmare

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10/7/2018 Tutorial: How to Paint Tau ­ Tale of Painters
painted and highlighted in a way to suggest daylight. If you've ever shined a ashlight onto something in Oldhammer fun painting the Nightmare
daylight you'll know that the torch doesn't light up the area at all. So in my opinion OSL only works if the Legion. Now I reme...
1 day ago
model has been painted in a low light conditions scheme. So for OSL to be convincing on a daylight model
like above it need to be subtle and minimal. Start by painting the eye lenses and the weapons lenses with Ekfud's Daemonbanes
Mephiston Red. Then mix 3 parts Lahmian Medium to 1 part Mephiston Red and glaze the surrounding area Paint station ergonomics - tips for
keeping good posture - I recently
around the lenses. Keep it minimal, don't over do it. It should look lighter then the actual lens.
had some persistent neck/headache
12. Paint the lenses completely with Jokaero Orange.  issues from leaning towards a computer
monitor at work (yes... turns out poor posture
for 60 hours a week is b...
1 day ago

WeeMen
Imperial Knights - Consorts of Legio
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Readers, thanks for checking out this
humble corner of the blogosphere. I am
proud to show off my latest addition to the
Imperial Knight Consorts to my...
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Banjo Unchained
Nerd Day 2018 Battlescape - Last
year I hosted a gaming weekend for
myself and 3 buddies. I posted about
that event here. This year, the event will be
held at the end of August and wi...
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13. Paint a dot of Flash Gitz Yellow within the Jokaero Orange leaving some Jokaero Orange showing on the
edges.  The Neverness Hobby Chronicle
Bad Moon Mega Armor Orks (Part 1)
14. Dot the centre of the lenses with Ceramite White. While you have the white out we can paint the Sept
- This is a unit of orks in mega armor
Markings. Use the GW website, White Dwarf or the Codex for guides on painting the markings. use watered (armour) that I have been keen on
down paint and outline the shape with lines before lling it. Don't be afraid to tidy up with some Tau Light nishing for a very long time now. The rst
Ochre to sharpen the edges. You will also need to paint White on the Tau symbol on the shoulder pad. model here was nished about 20 years...
15. Paint some vertical lines of Eshin Grey onto the hooves. Mix 1 part Eshin Grey with 1 part Lahmian 1 day ago
Medium and then use this mix to highlight the black gun areas. Lahmian Medium is used to soften and thin Sepulchre of Heroes
the paint in this regard helping to blend the grey into the black.  Blood Angels Venerable Chaplain
16. Use Dawnstone to paint vertical lines on the hooves. Then use the same colour to edge highlight the Dreadnought - Just slamming out
black areas of the gun. another Dreadnought for NOVA. Glad
I picked this guy up before he went OOP
(though FW still sell his claws). The symbols
on the arm and t...
2 days ago

Moon Art Studios

*Happy Beeep* pt2 - Hello all! Today I will
present You rest of progress, I started with a
black base coat, but this time I did
not use zenithal lighting with white
paint. *Wi...
2 days ago
17. Paint the two semi circles on both sides of the gun with Auric Armour Gold. This might take two or
three coats.  Hekatoncheires
18. Finally, base the model in a way which ts in with your own army or gaming table. I've used Steel Mordheim Ostlanders Warband –
 Complete - At long last, my nal
Legion Drab for the rim, Armageddon Dust for the base top and then drybrushed with Screaming Skull. visit to Mordheim. The extended
Drybrushing is a way of picking out raised detail quickly usually with a lighter colour. To dry brush you need Kasprzyk family is complete and ready to
load up your brush with paint and then wipe it off the bristles on a tissue until virtually no paint remains represent the Old World Empire province of
on the brush. Then rapidly and repeatedly drag the side of the brush back and forth over the area to be Ostland. Pics,...
painted. 2 days ago
Show All

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GARFY 40k / Garfy / Tau / Tutorials

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40 COMMENTS:
GREEN OF CALIBAN 13/4/13 11:19 am

Hi, just started with Tau and i appreciate your work. Very helpfull tutorials on this site. Go ahead
with the good work. Thank you.

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:36 pm

Thanks dude.

Reply

ANONYMOUS 13/4/13 11:23 am

Great work, Garfy - thanks for that one :)

Easy to check what i have to do at each step.
I love they way the "Tale of Painters"- guides are done.
Thanks @ the whole team ;) Keep painting guys!

Greetings
David

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:37 pm

On behalf of everyone at ToP, thank you very much for your kind words.

Reply

ANONYMOUS 13/4/13 11:38 am

These really are great tutorials, nice painting too :)

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:37 pm

That's really nice of you to say so.

Reply

BUFFER

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13/4/13 3:36 pm
Have to agree, i love the tutorials on this site informative and easy to follow
while using citadel paints. I appreciate they may not be the best paints in every situation, but lots
of good tutorials online jump from citadel, vallejo, P3 etc. from stage to stage making it almost
impossible to follow without buying the exact same paints.

So thanks for keeping it simple but awesome!

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:39 pm

I got to say I was an avid user of Vallejo, but I was so impressed with the new GW
paints I've switched over completely. I'm getting great results with them.

Vallejo metallics are better, but the GW ones are usable if you stir them and add some
glaze medium to them to smooth them out.

I like to keep it simple. These have been designed for ease of use. I nd them easier to
follow then a youtube vid.

Reply

DAVE DRAPER 13/4/13 4:39 pm

This is the best guide I've seen for painting Tau models. Thanks for posting it!

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:39 pm

No problem, happy painting.

Reply

FLANAGAN 13/4/13 7:22 pm

This is a great tutorial and the pictures are very crisp! Thanks Garfy!

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:41 pm

I pride myself on my photography. I've invested time and cash into producing reliable
pictures. With a dedicated photography studio with it's own ash lighting I can take
pictures of each stage without having to rely on sunlight.

Reply

ANONYMOUS 14/4/13 1:25 am

Excellent tutorial, I have had troubles with glow effects and this helps so much. Looking forward
to colour swapping and trying Bork'an style armour with the same techniques. Thank you very
much Garfy.

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:42 pm

Make sure you send me pictures, I really want to see. Send them to Tale of Painters via
our facebook page is probably easier.

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Reply

CLIF GANYARD 14/4/13 2:04 pm

Very nice tutorial.

When you mix your paints (eg. 3 parts Lahmian Medium to 1 part Mephiston Red), what do you
use to remove the paint from the pot and measure it? Do you just dip your brush in the pot and
dab it on the palette? Or do you have a more reliable method?

Thanks.

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:35 pm

Brush from pot.

3 dips of the brush of medium and 1 dip of the brush of paint. It's not chemistry, you
really don't have to be that exact. I do it all by feel anyway and as the paints drying
you may have to add more water/medium. It's just a rough guide, play with it and try to
get a feel for it. Some paints are thicker and require more medium to get that
translucent glaze effect.

Reply

ANONYMOUS 14/4/13 2:16 pm

I am very much in love with you for this tutorial...

Edd

Reply

Replies

GARFY 14/4/13 2:36 pm

Thanks Edd, I love all you guys too.

Reply

UNKNOWN 14/4/13 10:34 pm

Hi guys,
Impressive work.
Are you planning on doing any other Tau septs?
I'd love to see in depth paingint guide on sa'cea sept, and this new one http://www.games-
workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m3110282a_99120113031_2013TauBroadside02_
873x627.jpg
Keep up the good work!

Reply

GARFY 14/4/13 11:22 pm

No plans at the moment. But never say never.

Reply

NASH TULSA 10/5/13 3:33 pm

Hello great master of the art.

A big thank you for this one, as I was looking for any tutorial to paint the classic Tau set on a
Riptide armour.
Ok the model is just released so I quite understand it will take time to nd some (concerning the
armour tuto) but I just asume the technics are similars to the ones here.

I did not thought it would requier such a lot of GW paints but as I don't have any skin or clothes
on the Riptide armour, I should be able to do it with less.
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on the Riptide armour, I should be able to do it with less.

My biggets fear is to completly miss this huge and how much beautiful armour GW made us with
a poor and under valuable paint.

Maybe will I put some pictures once I had had time and courage to launch myself on this
painting challenge.

Again a great job here with this tutorial and many thanks for all your work.

Reply

JAWABALLS 25/7/13 10:05 pm

Nice tutorial man! Useful to beginners and pros alike! :) I just started painting my new Tau army
and this was helpful in picking out the new paints. Thanks!

Jawaballs

Reply

PAUL BAGGARLEY 30/7/13 6:39 pm

Thanks for the tutorial guys. I'm a little confused as to why we're shading the upper parts of the
armour a darker colour than the lower parts, but I'm going with it anyway :D

Reply

Replies

GARFY 30/7/13 7:14 pm

It's all to do with convex and concave... oh who am I trying to kid, I feel it just looks
better lit from the bottom (:

Reply

BILL S. 7/8/13 1:38 am

I'm working on a Fire Warrior team using this as my guide (as well as a paint conversion chart so I
know which Reaper paints to substitute!) and it's going along nicely. Thanks for posting it.

Reply

Replies

GARFY 9/8/13 10:46 am

Happy to help. I really want to do more tutorials but it's nding the time to do them.

Reply

WILLIAM PETERSON 9/8/13 5:20 am

I just got a Tau Army and was extremely pleased to nd this tutorial. It was the best tutorial I
found out there. The pictures and detail in each step was great! I thought the parts where he
speci cally went over when to water a paint down was very helpful. Thanks for posting this
tutorial!

Reply

Replies

GARFY 9/8/13 10:46 am

Really pleased you like it.

Reply

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ANONYMOUS 14/9/13 5:49 pm

Loved the tutorial, but hate to bring up the age old dilemma... what in ucneced your decision to
prime in black and now grey or white. Since there seems to be a higher percentage of the model
a lighter colour in the nished product. Just wondering?

Reply

Replies

GARFY 5/10/13 2:45 pm

I like the shading you can achieve with a black undercoat. If you paint neatly you can
use the black as lining the gaps between the colours.

Reply

ANONYMOUS 5/10/13 2:19 pm

awsome guide. i have been looking for a good guide for a standard paint scheme for the last 2
days. naly found this... thanks heaps :)

Reply

BKTANNER 28/2/14 4:47 am

Hey,

New painter here, so I'm about to ask some dumb questions :D. I've recently started a Tau army. I
have been painting for a bit now, mostly just base coats and washes, I haven't really gotten into
highlighting and all of that. I decided I'd like to try and expand my painting skills and take them
"to the next level" so to speak, and came across this tutorial while looking for Fire Warrior
painting guides. It looks like a very good tutorial that I'm going to try and follow, but rst I have
some questions.

In step 6, when you mix the Skaag brown with the medium (1 part : 4 parts) and painting it onto
the armor plates, are you painting it on almost like a wash? I've never done this before, so I don't
quite understand how and where to apply it. Perhaps it is my untrained painters eye, but I can't
really tell in the close up where it is you've applied the skaag brown/medium mix.

Same with step 7, I can't quite tell where the Zamesi desert has been painted on, and do I apply
it in a similar manner to the Skaag brown in step 6?

Based on reading the tutorial, it sounds something like the top quarter of each panel should be
shaded Skaag brown, and middle 50% should stay the basecoat color, and the bottom quarter of
each panel should be Zamesi desert, is this roughly correct?

Do you guys have some sort of generalized shading tutorial (I didn't' nd anything when I did a
search for shading on your blog) or perhaps a diagram showing where on the gure the
dark/light mixes should be applied?

Finally, for painting the unit leader who has a bare face (no helmet), would you recommend
following the same procedure you used to paint the feet?

Sorry for the probably dumb questions, but as I said, I'm a pretty novice painter who is interested
in increasing my painting skills and I want to make sure I understand this tutorial correctly =D.

Reply

Replies

GARFY 28/2/14 9:32 am

Step 6. If you compare the picture to step 5 you can see all the armour panels have
been lined with Skrag Brown. You need the thin mix so the paint ows into te gaps.
You need a steady hand for this. Do not apply it all over as a wash.

Step 7: This is a little bit of area highlighting to so when you do the edge highlighting
on step 8 it isn't so much of a jump in colour transitions. You summarised it perfectly.

We don't have a speci c highlighting and shading guide. There are too many different
ways to do it.

Yes use the skin guide for the feet for the head.

Please share your nished model with me, i'd love to see. Have fun!
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Please share your nished model with me, i'd love to see. Have fun!

BKTANNER 1/3/14 2:50 am

Thanks for the reply! I understand lining the armor joints in step 6 with the Skaag
Brown, I can see that pretty clearly. The part I'm speci cally talking about is this step:

"Secondly you need to use Lahmian Medium to to turn Skrag Brown into a Glaze. The
ratio should be 4 parts Lahmian Medium to 1 part Skrag Brown. Use this glaze mix to
shade the at armour plates. If you look at the close up you'll see I've shaded the
upper parts of the armour panels. "

I am having trouble understanding this step and how to apply it to the armor plating,
that is what I was asking about. It sounds like I just paint it on at, but don't be liberal
with it like I would a wash?

Again sorry for the newbie questions :).

Reply

GARFY 1/3/14 9:48 am

yes paint it on at, nice and thin. It should be translucent, so you can see the armour colour
through it. Glazing is a great way to add soft and subtle shading to areas.

Reply

Replies

BKTANNER 2/3/14 12:36 am

Ah okay thanks.

Well I painted my rst guy up. Not sure I am getting the glazing concept correct, and I
had a lot of trouble getting the little white free-hand sept markings down. If you
wouldn't mind, I could use your critique on my pictures, you may be able to tell things
like "you added too much skaag brown to your medium" or vice versa or whatever. I
also had trouble getting the white/black circle marking on the shield, mine looks pretty
bad and I can't gure out why or what an easier way to paint it would be. Though I'm
still pretty impressed with some parts of it, like the pants, I've always had trouble with
painting clothing. As a new painter, it is kind of cool seeing some of the results I
managed to get :D.

Anyways what's the best way to share the nished model with you?

Thanks! And thanks for taking the time to write the tutorial and respond to questions!

Reply

HANSOL KANG 26/7/14 2:15 pm

Thanks for the tutorial!

I have a thing to ask you. How do you paint the inner parts if you have already put the arms on?
I've tried quite a few times but I could't reach it. So I usually paint part by parts. Do you have
some kind of skills for painting the inner parts?

Reply

Replies

GARFY 26/7/14 2:22 pm

I ignore them. So long as they're black, they're just part of the shadow now.

Reply

SAMUEL LEE 11/10/15 10:14 am

Thanks for the tutorial it was a huge eye opener =)

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Reply

UNKNOWN 20/3/17 7:07 pm

Love this guide. Very informative about how to paint Tau.

Reply

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