MODIFY FORMAT & STYLE (27/30)

MODIFY FORMAT OF CITATIONS?

CHAPTER 2

REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE AND RELATED STUDIES

Nail polish is one of the hottest and most commonly seen fashion

accessories. It is a great way to splash a little color into your life without being

overpowering or overly strong. From delicate pinks to off-beat blues, you can find

a way to express yourself with a nail polish. Additionally, it is a healthier and safer

alternative to faux nails, which essentially disintegrate the integrity of the nail

over time. Nail polish allows for the nail to breathe and grow naturally with non-

invasive decoration.

Nail varnish or most commonly known as nail polish is basically a mixture

of various pigments and often textures in a volatile solvent, along with added film

formers that aid in the durability and quality of its appearance. It is a lacquer

applied to toenails and fingernails not only to beautify them, but also as nail

protection. There is no basic formula for a nail polish but there are components

that are necessarily present in it. These include: film forming agents, resins and

plasticizers, solvents, and coloring agents. The primary ingredient in nail polish is

nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrate) cotton that acts as a filming agent. It is a

flammable and explosive ingredient also used in making dynamite. Nitrocellulose

is a liquid mixed with tiny, near-microscopic cotton fibers. Synthetic resins and

plasticizers are being added to the mixture to improve flexibility, resistance to

soap and water, and other qualities. Because of the number of desired qualities

involved, however, there is no single resin or combination of resins that meets

every specification. Among the resins and plasticizers in use today are castor oil,

amyl and butyl stearate, and mixes of glycerol, fatty acids, and acetic acids.

Solvents are used to hold or contain the colorings and other components until the

polish is applied. It must be able to evaporate after the application process. In

many cases, the solvent also acts a plasticizer. Butyl stearate and acetate

compounds are perhaps the most common. Finally, the polish must have a color.

Early polishes used soluble dyes, but today's product contains pigments of one

type or another. Choice of pigment and its ability to mix well with the solvent and

other ingredients is essential to producing a good quality product.

( http://www.enotes.com/how-products-encyclopedia/nail-polish )

In order to produce a more echo friendly nail polish, the most common

sources of coloring agents are being changed into biological pigments such as

plant pigments and flower pigments. These include: alugbati plant, atsuete,

carrot, gumamela, orange, yellow ginger and algae. ( Philippines University ,

1976)

Alugbati is a succulent, branched, smooth, twining herbaceous vine,

several meters in length. Stems are purplish or green. Leaves are somewhat

fleshy, ovate or heart-shaped, 5 to 12 centimeters long, stalked and tapering to a

pointed tip with a chordate base. It is found in settled areas, in hedges, old
cultivated areas, etc., throughout the Philippines. The intensely purple juice

obtained from the berries of this plant is rich in anthocyanin and is used as a

natural food colorant and dye. ( http://www.stuartxchange.org/Alugbati.html)

Annatto, sometimes called roucou or achiote, is a derivative of the achiote

trees of tropical regions of the Americas, used to produce a yellow to orange food

coloring and also as a flavoring. It has had many uses over the centuries in Latin

America and the Caribbean, including as a food dye, body paint, treatment for

heartburn and stomach distress, sunscreen and insect repellent. In the

Philippines, it is called atsuete and is used as food coloring in traditional dishes.

( hhtp://www.stuartxchange.org/Atsuete.html )

Turmeric (Curcuma longa), a perennial shrub which belongs to the ginger

family, has long been regarded as an important spice in Asian cuisine. The

Chinese name that is given to turmeric is jianghuang, which means yellow ginger.

Ground turmeric has long been used as a yellow food coloring agent, a natural

dye, and as a spice. (http://www.vegetarian-nutrition.info/herbs/turmeric.php)

Algae are a group of species that are autotrophic i.e. can prepare their

own food by photosynthesis. They are used in making natural dyes and also as

coloring agents. (http://www.aimeco.com/algae-biofuel)

 The orange pigment found in carrots are carotene. It is the most familiar

carotenoids. They function as accessory pigments in plants, helping to fuel

photosynthesis by gathering wavelengths of light not readily absorbed by

chlorophyll. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrot)

Various cultures throughout history have used color on their nails to signify

beauty, social status, or spirituality.

The first nail polish originated during 300 BC in China. Chinese nail polish

were made by combining gelatin, egg white, Gum Arabic ( also called Gum

Acacia which is a natural gum from hardened sap of the Acacia tree) and bees

wax with flower petals. The Greeks colored their nails using Henna. The

Egyptians used henna to color both their nails and the tips of their fingers as a

sign of beauty. The various colors that were eventually used signified social

status, with the royals using the deep, intense colors and the nails of the people

becoming comparatively more pale as they ranked lower on the social ladder. (

http://kevin-peter.hubpages.com/hub/Nail-Art-Design )

Modern nail polish is sold in liquid form in small bottles and is applied with

a tiny brush. Within a few minutes after application, the substance hardens and

forms a shiny coating on the fingernail that is both water- and chip-resistant.

Generally, a coating of nail polish may last several days before it begins to chip

and fall off. Nail polish can also be removed manually by applying nail polish
"remover," a substance designed to break down and dissolve the polish.

( http://www.enotes.com/how-products-encyclopedia/nail-polish )

This is a suspension product, in which particles of color can only be held

by the solvent for a relatively short period of time, rarely more than two or three

years. Shaking the bottle of nail polish before using it helps to restore settled

particles to the suspension; a very old bottle of nail polish may have so much

settled pigment that it can never be restored to the solvent. The problem of

settling is perhaps the most difficult to be addressed in the manufacturing

process.

( http://www.enotes.com/how-products-encyclopedia/nail-polish )

Some Available Manufacturing Process:

Mixing the pigment with nitrocellulose and plasticizer:

 The pigments are mixed with nitrocellulose and plasticizer using a "two-roll"

differential speed mill. This mill grinds the pigment between a pair of rollers

that are able to work with increasing speed as the pigment is ground down.

The goal is to produce fine dispersion of the color. A variation of this mill is

the Banbury Mixer (used also in the production of rubber for rubber bands).

 When properly and fully milled, the mixture is removed from the mill in sheet

form and then broken up into small chips for mixing with the solvent. The
 mixing is performed in stainless steel kettles that can hold anywhere from 5

to 2,000 gallons. Stainless steel must be used because the nitrocellulose is

extremely reactive in the presence of iron. The kettles are jacketed so that

the mixture can be cooled by circulating cold water or another liquid around

the outside of the kettle. The temperature of the kettle, and the rate of

cooling, are controlled by both computers and technicians.

This step is performed in a special room or area designed to control the

hazards of fire and explosion. Most modern factories perform this step in an

area with walls that will close in if an alarm sounds and, in the event of

explosion, with ceilings that will safely blow off without endangering the rest

of the structure.

Adding other ingredients:

 Materials are mixed in computerized, closed kettles. At the end of the

process, the mix is cooled slightly before the addition of such other materials

as perfumes and moisturizers.

 The mixture is then pumped into smaller, 55 gallon drums, and then trucked

to a production line. The finished nail polish is pumped into explosion proof

pumps, and then into smaller bottles suitable for the retail market.

( http://www.enotes.com/how-products-encyclopedia/nail-polish )

Some studies were conducted on the usage of biological pigments as

coloring agents. One example is the study that was entitled “ Phytochemical

screening of Gumamela” by Pondoc (2007). Another one is the study about

making a highlighter ink from gumamela by Rulona (2008). These studies were

conducted using gumamela extract/pigments as their source of color. This study

is different from the other studies because it aims to produce a nail polish using

biological pigments as its coloring agents.

EXPAND MORE SYTHESIS HERE

SYNTHESIS
Based on your RRL, what are the information/data you have

gathered that proves useful in you present study?

Based on Related Studies, how is your present study different from

other previous studies?