Scalp Health Leads to Hair Health

2012 August rev.
Check out www.chemical‐navi.com/english/
MICROCIRCULATION
PROPER CLEANSING
Healthy blood circulation
Thorough scalp cleansing In the scalp area allows
(without any unwanted proper delivery of nutrients
residue)allows aeration of
the hair roots
LESSEN SCALP INJURY
SCALP HEALTH=HAIR HEALTH
Scalp skin is sensitive. Taking care of scalp leads
Treat it gently. A product To healthier, stronger
that foams well provides a hair from the roots
“cushion” to lessen injury. (lesser hair fall)
Best‐selling Pre‐shampoo
Massage Gels in Japan*
With increasing use of styling aids, the need to clean
Scalp thoroughly is growing. A clean and refreshed scalp
Leads to well‐nourished, thicker & stronger hair and
More bounce.
Commonly used mild and natural cleansing agents would be
Nikkol TMGCO‐7, TO‐10V, AM101 ,etc.
• According to Rakuten Online sales Essential oils and plant extracts are also used to restore and
ranking (2011) refresh the scalp.
• This transparent purifying gel uses a plant‐derived, food‐
grade ingredient (Decaglyn 1‐L) to give a mild yet
thorough cleansing.
• Active ingredients to restore dehydrated hair and scalp.
• Essential oils leave your scalp refreshed & awaken!
• Use before your normal cleanse routine.
KEY INGREDIENTS FUNCTION
Decaglyn 1‐L Sebum Remover
Polyglyceryl‐10 Laurate
Decaglyn 1‐L: Mild, EO‐free Sebum Cleanser
Decaglyn 1‐L
Blank Commercial* (5.0%) formulation
Before
Washing
0.2 g of formulation; Rubbed 30 times
After
Washing
• Commercial benchmark is La Casta Scalp Clear Cleansing Gel:
Polysorbate 80 as main cleanser
• Test done using artificial sebum stained with red dye
INCI Trade Name Amount
Phase A Water To 100
Glycerin 10.0
Polyglyceryl‐10 Laurate Nikkol Decaglyn 1‐L 5.0
BG 10.0
Ethanol 8.0
Carbomer, Water Carbopol 981 (2% aq) 10.0
EDTA‐2Na 0.05
Preservative q.s.
Phase B Arginine 0.16
Water 5.0
Phase C Various Plant Extracts 0.2
Eucalyptus Oil 0.1
Peppermint Oil 0.1
1. Mix A & B separately at room temperature until uniform.
2. Add B to neutralize A then mix till uniform.
3. Add A to Phase C then mix until even.
• Mass Brands catering to all or specific • Premium priced brands catering
gender to specific gender
• Contains Silicone • Silicone‐free Formulations
• Uses synthetic actives to alleviate scalp • Uses natural –derived actives to
problems help combat scalp problems.
This formulation that uses mild cleansers that don’t strip the scalp of its
natural oils. This is sulphate‐free yet magically builds up into a rich &
luxurious Lather that protects your scalp when you massage your hair.
Nikkol CMT‐30
INCI: Sodium N‐Cocoyl‐N‐Methyl Taurate Mild Cleanser (Anionic)
(30% aqueous solution).
Nikkol Alaninate LN‐30
INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate Mild Cleanser (Anionic)
(30% aqueous solution)
Nikkol AM‐3130 Builder/ Foam Booster
INCI:Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
(30% aqueous solution)
(Amphoteric)
Nikkol CMT‐30: Mild, Non‐stripping Cleanser
Hair Cuticle Stripping Evaluation
8
After 1 hour
7 After 3 hours
4
Number of cuticles
0
Untreated Sodium Sodium Sodium N-lauroyl CMT-30
laurate dodecyl dodecyl sodium
sulfate phosphate glutamate
(SDS)
Sulfate‐based surfactants strips the hair cuticle making it looked dull and damage.
Hair washed with Nikkol CMT‐30 or with an amino‐based cleanser would show
less stripping effect
Nikkol CMT‐30: Mild, Non‐stripping Cleanser
Maintaining Skin Barrier Purity & Foam Quality
Dandruff Amount (after 1 week)
Product A Product B CMT-30

1
Assay (%) 28.7 28.5 30.1
0.8
Sodium Chloride (%) 6.3 6.2 0.6
Amount of dandruff
0.6 Free Fatty Acids (%) 4.6 --- 0
0.4
The high purity of Nikkol CMT‐30
0.2
(low salt residue) allows the creation of a richer
0
and even foam and transparent formulations.
CMT-30 Sodium dodecyl
sulfate
Hair washed with Nikkol CMT‐30 preserves
the integrity of the skin barrier making scalp
less dandruff‐prone.
Nikkol Alalinate LN‐30:
This mild amino‐acid based cleanser creates a creamy rich foam that can be
rinsed rapidly then leaves a smooth and moist sensation on the hair & scalp.
A. Suppresses the irritation potential of traditionally strong surfactants 1
24 hour closed‐patch test
Composition Degree of Irritation Response
Na‐ Alkylbenzene Nikkol Alalinate
High Irritation Slight Irritation No irritation
Sulfonate LN‐30
10% 0% 13 12 5
9.7% 0.3% 0 17 13
B. Compatible with other anionic, cationic & amphoteric surfactants
Nikkol Alalinate LN‐30 works well with anionic surfactants (Nikkol CMT‐30 or SLS)
by lowering their high kraft points. This combination with Nikkol CMT‐30 generates
a rich, copious foam.
C. Exhibits hard water resistance, foams well in the presence of sebum, and has
bacteriostatic properties. 2
1,2 Ishii, Shibue, Komatsu: Journal of JCCA Special Issue p. 73 (1968)
Phase A BG 4.00
Sorbitol solution Sorbitol S 2.00
Polyquartenium‐10 0.50
Citric Acid 0.65
EDTA‐2Na 0.10
Preservative q.s.
Phase B Water to 100.0
Phase C Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate sol’n Nikkol CMT‐30 20.00
Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminoproponiate sol’n Nikkol Alalinate LN‐30 15.00
Cocoamide Propyl Betaine solution Nikkol AM‐3130N 15.00
Cocoamide DEA Amizol CDE 2.00
Laureth‐2 Nikkol BL‐2 1.00
Decyl glucoside solution Plantacare 2000 UP 10.00
Nikkol TMGCO‐7 1.00
Stearamidopropyl Methylamine Nikkol Amidoamine MPS 0.50
Phase D Shiso leaf extract, ethanol. Water Shiso Extract NA Free 0.30
“various plant extracts” Phytelene Complex EGX‐232 0.10
Water 3.00
1. Mix A at room temperature until uniform.
2. Add A to B then mix till uniform. Heat the mixture until it swells.
3. Add ingredient of Phase C one at a time. After adding all ingredient, heat until mixture is uniform.
4. Cool down up to 35oC. Add D and mix till even.
This mild conditioning agents with similar performance to cationic
quaternary ammonium salts but with lower irritation potential.
These are plant‐derived materials with low environment impact.
Nikkol Amidoamine MPB For “extra‐moist” feel
Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Nikkol Amidoamine MPS For “extra‐smooth” finish

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Other Properties:
1. These mild conditioning agents also are compatible with anionic surfactants
which allows the creation of conditioning shampoos.
2. These materials are highly biodegradable which can be used in “green”
formulations (45% degradation after 5 days; 100% degradation after 20 days)
Sensorial evaluation of Amidoamine MPB
Hair rinse containing
Hair texture NIKKOL Amidoamine MPB
just after
application Commercially available
5 hair rinse
Manageabilit 4
Wet combing
y
3 (with
(following
fingers)
day)
2
Dry combing Moist feeling

(with (after hair
comb/brush) was dried)
Gloss
Phase A Stearamidopropyl methylamine Nikkol Amidoamine MPS 5.00
Glyceryl Stearate Nikkol MGS‐BV2 0.50
Stearyl Alcohol 7.00
Methy Heptyl Laurate Nikkol GS‐MHL 3.00
Phytostearyl Isostearate 3.00
Octyldodecanol 3.00
Vaseline 4.00
Phase B PG 5.00
Glutamic Acid 1.60
Polyquaternium 47, Water 2.40
Preservative q.s
Water to 100
Phase C Shiso Extract NA 0.40
Fucogel 1000 PP 3.00
Water 5.00
1. Heat A & B separately at 80 degrees C.
2. Add A into B while mixing and homogenize until even
3. Cool down up to 40 degrees using a paddle mixer, then add C.
4. Mix evenly and cool down up to 35 degrees
Just like in skin care, the concept of “concentrates”
is getting popular in hair care– 100% natural oil
or potent oil‐blends to intensively treat each hair strand.
Methylheptyl Laurate Nikkol GHS‐MHL 50.00
Squalane Nikkol Olive Squalane 20.00
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride Nikkol Triester F810 27.50
Squalane, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil,
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Olea Nikkol Natural Oils 1 1.00
Europea Fruit Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Nikkol Argan Oil .10
Ethylhexyl Glycerin,
Nikkoguard 88 0.80
Glyceryl Caprylate
Tocopherol 0.10
Orange Oil (fragrance) 0.50
This blend of 100% plant‐derived oils repairs and softens each hair strand
without the sticky feel & build‐up.
This oil blend can also be used to soothe broken cuticles or
massage into skin for a quick moisture pick‐up.
2012 August rev.
Gel Network Emulsifier Traditional O/W Emulsifier
Cream
Epidermis
Dermis
Gel network emulsifiers (Nikkomulese 41 or 61H)

would bind more into skin or hair, locking essential
Ingredients or moisture inside the gel network.
Images from Chifure Website
http://www.chifure.co.jp/news/popup/11/2009_08_24g.html
Nikkomulese 61H
Plant-derived Gel Network Emulsifier to Prevent Color Fade
INCI name : POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTASTEARATE (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL
(and) STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE LACTATE
Results after 21 washing + rinsing
Commercial Rinse w/ Nikkomulese

Blank
Rinse 0.75 Cationic 61H 1.5%
Difference of Absorption Mechanism
Cationic Surfactant Nikkomulese 61H

Emollient agent
Gel network Nikkomulese 61H
Cation Emollient Agent
Water
Hair surface Hair surface
Adsorption by ionic bond Physical adsorption
Irritation Safety LD50>5g/kg

Poor biodegradability Gel network
Nikkomulese 61H creates a gel network conditioning base that adheres to hair strand

stronger than electrostatic forces thus providing the following benefits*:
1. 40% more protection from chemical damage vs. commercial rinse
2. Significant increase in slip & softness vs. commercial rinse
3. 15% more retained moisture vs. commercial rinse (3‐day treatment)
Less irritating than conventional quats and highly biodegradable
*All data confirmed by internal tests
Nikkomulese HC-1
System 1 Alkalizing agent swells the hair to allow the entry

of hair dye molecules. However, ammonia is very
Alkalizer volatile and its odor can be quite unpleasant to the
user.
Dye Agents react together with hair fiber
Surfactant/ to form colors
Emollients Dye Agents
Surfactant & thickening agents solubilizes
the first 2 components and provides the final
viscosity/ feel of the product (preferably non‐
System 2 drip)
This oxidant catalyzes the reaction of dye
Peroxide precursors while dispersing the melanin on
hair (bleaching process)
Nikkomulese HC-1
Gel Network Emulsifier to Suppress Ammonia Odor
and Irritation Potential in Surfactant-Free Color Systems
LC*= Liquid Crystal
Nikkomulese LC‐EF
Hydrogenated Lecithin / Caprylic‐ Capric
Triglyceride/ Tocopherol/ Stearyl Alcohol/ Behenyl EO‐free Liquid Crystal Emulsifier
Alcohol/ Phytosterol/ Polyglyceryl 10‐Myristate/
Glyceryl Stearate
Nikkol GS‐MHL Ultra‐light, Coconut‐derived

Methylheptyl Laurate Ester Oil
1. Nikkomulese LC‐EF
EO‐free, plant derived Liquid crystal emulsifier that mimics the lamellar structure of lipids
found within human skin. This liquid crystal structure effectively bounds water for sustained
moisturizing effect.
2. Nikkol GS‐MHL
Ultra‐light ester oil that provides excellent slip and emolliency without weighing hair down.
Derived from coconuts and processed with minimal e‐factor*
*E‐factor means the ratio of waste produced for every unit produced
Nikkomulese LC Hair Protection Properties
O/W emulsifier
Electron microscope images of hair (after bleaching & straightening)
Blank Serum O/W serum 5% Nikkomulese LC serum LC Emulsifier
Method: 1.0g of beauty serum was pumped into and spread in palm of hand, and then applied to hair
bundle. Sensory evaluation of hair performed after 2 hours. Bleach treatment done at luminosity level
15 (JHCA, Japan Hair Color Association)
Results: Hair treated with 5% LC serum received more protection from bleaching &
straightening compared to typical O/W formulation*.
Nikkomulese LC also showed better sensorial results: moist feel, more shine without the
sticky feel.
*O/W emulsifiers are Ceteth‐2 & Ceteth‐15
Phase A Pentylene Glycol 1.50
Butylene Glycol 3.50
Glycerin 1.00
Preservative q.s.
Carbomer 0.20
EDTA‐2Na 0.10
Water 79.80
Hydrogenated Lecithin / Caprylic/ Capric
Triglyceride/ Tocopherol/ Stearyl Alcohol/
Phase B Nikkomulese LC‐EF 4.00
Behenyl Alcohol/ Phytosterol/ Polyglyceryl
10‐Myristate/ Glyceryl Stearate
Methylheptyl Laurate Nikkol GS‐MHL 3.50
Squalane 0.50
Stearyl Alcohol 1.50
Macadamia Nuts Oil 0.5
Avocado Oil 0.5
Shea Butter 0.5
Phase C Water 2.45
Arginine 0.15
1. Heat A & B separately at 80 degrees C.
2. Homogenize A and gradually add B, then homogenize the
mixture (200 g scale> 4000 rpm for 5 minutes.
3. Add C then cool down up to 35C.
Nikkol PMEA
INCI: Palmitamide MEA
• Use at 2% level to achieve a lustrous pearlescent effect
• At 1%, expect anti‐inflammatory action for scalp
Suppression of UV‐induced prostaglandin E2
Add PMEA for elegant pearlescent effect
& relieve itchy scalp!
Black Tea Extract BG for Scalp Deodorizing
1. Inhibits excessive sebum secretion
2. Inhibits sebum oxidation
Scalp odor is primarily caused
by the interaction of lipids &
Bacteria.
Sebum glands are densely found in
the scalp and lipid concentrations
are also high in this area.1
1 Nicolaides: Skin Lipids: their biochemical uniqueness.
Science 186; 19‐26: 1974
Black Tea Extract BG for Scalp Deodorizing
3. Anti‐microbial action 4. Eliminates odor‐causing compounds
2 Main Actors in Scalp Odor Generation
P.Acnes exerts lipase activity, that hydrolyzes
glycerides and generates long fatty‐acids.
P. Ovale then converts these long‐chain fatty acids Kubota et.al. analysed that isovaleric acid &
into volatile odorous compounds isobutyric acid were one of the main odorous
components of scalp odor.
Also suppresses common sweat‐feeding microbes Kubota et. al. Investigation of the Odor Evolved from Human Hair. Journal of
Such as Corynebacterium & Micrococcus luteus Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan 28
(3‐5% as a product respectively)
Best‐selling
Men’s shampoos that uses
Black Tea Extract
Launched summer 2012
1. Acts on scalp odor with 4 approaches‐ reduction of excess sebum,

anti‐oxidation, anti‐microbial, and odor elimination.
2. Also promotes pro‐filaggrin (precursor to NMF) to increase the
moisture content of scalp & inhibits inflammation‐causing agents
for weakened, itchy scalps.
Launched summer 2011

Scalp Health Leads to Hair Health

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2012 August rev.

Product A Product B CMT-30

0.6 Free Fatty Acids (%) 4.6 --- 0

Nikkol Amidoamine MPS For “extra‐smooth” finish

Dry combing Moist feeling

Gel network emulsifiers (Nikkomulese 41 or 61H)

Commercial Rinse w/ Nikkomulese

Cationic Surfactant Nikkomulese 61H

Irritation Safety LD50>5g/kg

Nikkomulese 61H creates a gel network conditioning base that adheres to hair strand

System 1 Alkalizing agent swells the hair to allow the entry

Nikkol GS‐MHL Ultra‐light, Coconut‐derived

Blank Serum O/W serum 5% Nikkomulese LC serum LC Emulsifier

1. Acts on scalp odor with 4 approaches‐ reduction of excess sebum,

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