1 CBLM Perform Bench111

COMPETENCY- BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector:METALS AND ENGINEERING
Qualification Title: MACHINING NC II
Unit of Competency: Perform Bench Work (Complex)
Unit of Competency: Performing Bench Work

What's Your Learning Style?
For these questions, choose the first answer that comes to mind and
encircle on a, b, or c. Do not spend too much time thinking about any one
question.
1. When you study for a test, would you rather
A. Read notes, read headings in a book, and look at diagrams and

illustrations?
B. Have someone ask you questions, or repeat facts silently to
yourself?
C. Write things out on index cards and make models or diagrams?
2. Which of these do you do when you listen to music?
A. daydream (see things that go with the music)

B. hum a along
C. Move with the music; tap your foot, etc.
3. When you work at solving a problem do you
A. Make a list, organize the steps, and check them off as they are
done?
B. Make a few phone calls and talk to friends or experts?
C. Make a model of the problem or walk through all the steps in
your mind?
4. When you read for fun, do you prefer?
A. A travel book with a lot of pictures in it?

B. A mystery book with a lot of conversation in it?
C. A book where you answer questions and solve problems?
Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Date Revised:
April 12, 2016 Issued by:
MACHINING NC II
Developed By:
R. Lapon & L. Serafin
5. To learn how a computer works, would you rather
A. Watch a movie about it?

B. Listen to someone explain it?
C. Take the computer apart and try to figure it out for yourself?
6. You have just entered a science museum, what will you do first?
A. Look around and find a map showing the locations of the

various exhibits.
B. Talk to a museum guide and ask about exhibits.
C. Go into the first exhibit that looks interesting and read
directions later.
7. What kind of restaurant would you rather not go to?
A. One with the lights too bright

B. One with the music too loud.
C. One with uncomfortable chairs
8. Would you rather go to?
A. An art class?
B. A music class?
C. An exercise class?
9. Which are you most likely to do when you are happy?
A. grin
B. shout with joy
C. jump for joy

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10. If you were at a party, what would you be most likely to remember
the next day?
A. the faces of the people there, but not the names

B. the names but not the faces
C. the things you did and said while you were there
11. When you see the word "d - o - g", what do you do first?
A. think of a picture of a particular dog

B. say the word "dog" to yourself silently
C. Sense the feeling of being with a dog (petting it, running with it,
etc.)
12. When you tell a story, would you rather
A. Write it?
B. Tell it out loud?
C. Act it out?
13. What is most distracting for you when you are trying to
concentrate?
A. visual distractions
B. noises
C. other sensations like, hunger, tight shoes, or worry
14. What are you most likely to do when you are angry?
A. scowl
B. shout or ―blow up‖
C. stomps off and slams doors

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015. When you aren't sure how to spell a word, which of these are you
most likely to do?
A. write it out to see if it looks right

B. sound it out
C. write it out to see if it feels right
16. Which are you most likely to do when standing in a long line at
the movies?
A. look at posters advertising other movies

B. talk to the person next to you
C. tap your foot or move around in some other way
TO DETERMINE YOUR LEARNING STYLE:

Total your a's, b's, and c's. If you scored mostly
A's you may have a visual learning style.
B‘s you may have an auditory learning style.
C’s you may have a kinesthetic learning style
LEARNING STYLES
I. Visual Learner
The visual learner will often lose focus during long oral lectures,
especially if these are not accompanied by drawings and illustrations. The
visual learner takes mental pictures of information given, so in order for this
kind of learner to retain information, oral or written, presentations of new
information must contain diagrams and drawings, preferably in color. The
visual learner can't concentrate with a lot of activity around him and will
focus better and learn faster in a quiet study environment.
II. Kinesthetic Learner

Kinesthetic learners are described as the students in the classroom,
who have problems sitting still and who often bounce their legs while
tapping their fingers on the desks. They are often referred to as hyperactive
students with concentration issues.

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III. Auditory Learner
For the auditory learner, oral presentations are crucial for
understanding a subject, as this kind of learner has the ability to remember
speeches and lectures in detail but has a hard time with written text. Having
to read long texts is pointless and will not be retained by the auditory
learner unless it is read aloud.

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References/Further Reading
Performance Criteria Checklist
Operation/Task/Job Sheet
Self Check Answer Key
Self Check
Information Sheet
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome Summary
Module
Module Content
Content
Module
List of Competencies
Content
Module Content
Module Content
Front Page
In our efforts to standardize CBLM, the above
parts are recommended for use in Competency
Based Training (CBT) in Technical Education
and Skills Development Authority (TESDA)
Technology Institutions. The next sections will
show you the components and features of each
part.

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Table of Contents
How to use Competency-Based Learning Material…………………………… 1
List of Competencies…………………………………………………………………. 4
Module Content……………………………………………………………………….. 5
Learning Experiences……………………………………………………………….. 7
Benchwork Operation and Types of Honing Tools
Information Sheet 1.1…………………………………….…………………. 11
Self-Check 1.1……………………………………………………………....... 33
Answer Key to Self-Check 1.1……………………………………………… 36
1. Layout and Mark Dimensions
Information Sheet 1.1-1…………………………………………… 37
Task Sheet 1.1-1…………………………………………………… 43
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-1…………………………… 44
2. Cutting
Task Sheet 1.1-2……………………………………………………… 51
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-2…………………………… 52
3. Chipping
Task Sheet 1.1-3……………………………………………………… 63
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-3……………………………. 64
4. Filing
Task Sheet 1.1-4……………………………………………………. 79
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-4………………………….. 80
5. Drilling, Boring, Counterboring, and Spotfacing
Task Sheet 1.1-5……………………………………………………. 92
6.Lapping
Information Sheet 1.1-6……………………………………………. 94
Task Sheet 1.1-6……………………………………………………. 95
7. Reaming
Task Sheet 1.1-7……………………………………………………. 103
8. Boring Operations
Task Sheet 1.1-8……………………………………………………. 113
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-8……………………………. 114

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9. Offhand Grinding
Task Sheet 1.1-9……………………………………………………. 124
Types of Scrappers
Information Sheet 1.2………………………………………………………… 126
Self-Check 1.2………………………………………………………………… 132
Answer Key to Self-Check 1.2…………………………………………… 133
Extractors
Information Sheet 1.3 ……………………………………………………… 134
Self-Check 1.3…………………………………………………………………. 136
Procedure in Removing Damaged Bolt
Information Sheet 1.3 ……………………………………………………… 138
Self-Check 1.3…………………………………………………………………. 142
References………………………………………………………………………………. 144

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HOW TO USE COMPETENCY- BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Welcome to the modules for Machining NC II. This learning

material contains modules and training materials and activities
for you to complete.
The units of competencies as listed in the previous page and
the modules contain knowledge, skills, and attitudes required for
Machining. It contains also specialized modules for National
Certificate level II.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in
order to complete each learning outcome are Information Sheets
and resource sheets (Reference Materials for further reading to
help you better understand the required activities). Follow these
activities on your own and answer the self-check at the end of
each learning outcome. You may remove a blank answer sheet at
the end of each module (or get one from your trainer/facilitator)
to write your answers for each self-check. If you have questions,
do not hesitate to ask your trainer/facilitator for assistance.
Recognition of prior Learning (RPL)
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and

skills covered in this learner‘s guide because you have:
. Been working for sometime
. Already completed training in this area
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent

in a particular skill or skills, talk to him/her about having them
formally recognized so you do not have to do the same training
again. If you have a qualification or certificate of competency from
previous trainings, show it to your trainer. If the skills you
acquired are still current and relevant to the units of competency,
they may come part of the evidence you can present for RPL. If
you are not sure about the currency of your skill, discuss with
your trainer.
At the end of all the modules is a Learners Diary. Use this

diary to record important date jobs undertaken and other

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workplace events that will assist you in providing further details

to your trainer or assessor. A Record of Achievement is also
provided for your trainer to complete once you finished all the
modules.
The modules were prepared to help you achieve the required

competency in all aspects of machining. This will be the source
information for you to acquire knowledge and skills for this
particular trade independently and at your own pace, with
minimum supervision or help from your instructor.
. Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both

organize the training. Read through the modules carefully. It is
divided into learning outcomes which covers all the skills and
knowledge you need to successfully complete each module.
. Work through all the information and complete the
activities in each module. Read information sheets and complete
the self-check. Suggested references are included to supplement
the materials provided.
. Most provably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or
manager. He/she is there to support you and show you the
correct way to do things.
. Your trainer will tell you about the important things you
need to consider when you are completing activities and it is
important that you listen and take notes.
. You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and
practice on the job. Make sure you practice tour new skills
during regular work shifts. This way, you will improve both your
speed and memory and also your confidence.
. Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their
guidance.
. Use the self-check questions at the end of each question to
test your own progress.
. When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform
the activities outlined in the module.
. As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback

on your progress. Your trainer keeps feedback/pre-assessment
reports for this reason. When you have successfully completed
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each element, ask your trainer to mark on the reports that you
are ready for assessment.
. When you have completed all the modules, and feel
confident that you have sufficient practice, your trainer will
arrange an appointment with registered assessor to assess you.
The result of your assessment will be recorded in your
competency achievement record.

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MACHINING NC II
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Performing
bench work MEE722301
1. Perform bench work (basic)
(basic)
Performing
Perform bench work (Complex) bench work MEE722305
2.
(Complex)
Turn work piece (Basic) Turning work MEE722302

3.
piece (Basic)
Turning work
Turn work piece (Intermediate) MEE722306
4. piece
(Intermediate)
Mill work piece (Basic) Milling work MEE722303

5.
piece (Basic)
Milling work
Mill work piece (Intermediate) MEE722307
6. piece
(Intermediate)
Grind work Piece (Basic) Grinding work MEE722304

7.
piece (Basic)
Grind work piece (Complex) Grinding work MEE722308

8.
piece (Complex)

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MODULE CONTENT
SECTOR: METALS AND ENGINEERING
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PERFORM BENCH WORK (COMPLEX)
MODULE TITLE: PERFORMING BENCH WORK
MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This unit covers the skills required to set up and
turn work piece to specification. It includes the different
lathe operations such as cutting tapers by off- setting
tailstock or using taper attachment, machining
components using collets chuck and follower rest, and
cutting internal and external Vee and acme threads.
NOMINAL DURATION: 56 hrs.
LEARNING OUTCOME:
Upon completion of this module, the trainees/student must be able to:
LO 1. Hone, scrape surface
LO 2. Remove damaged screw in the threaded hole
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
 Work piece is mounted and centered in accordance with work
requirements
 Work piece is set up using instrument/ equipment according to
recommended procedure.
 Set up operations are performed in accordance with approved safety
procedures and practices.

Date Revised:
MACHINING NC II April 12, 2016 Issued by:
Developed By:
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6
LEARNING OUTCOME # 1: HONE, SCRAPE SURFACE
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
 Horning performed accordance to procedure
 Scrapping is performed according to procedure
CONTENTS:
1. Typed of :
 Honing tools
 Scrappers
2. Procedure in :
 Honing
 Scrapping
 Removing damage bolt
CONDITIONS: The students/trainees must be provided with the following:

Tools/Accessories
 Set of honing tools
 Set of extractor
 Set of Scrapper
METHODOLOGIES:
 Lecture / Discussion
 Self-Paced Learning activities
 Guided demonstration ( performance based )
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
 Written
 Observation

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LEARNING EXPERIENCES
Learning Outcome 1
HONE, SCRAPE SURFACE
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1.Read Information Sheet 1.1 Read information sheet. After reading,
the learner is encourage to answer
Type of Honing tools
the self –check 1.1
2.Answer self-check 1.1 Compare the answers to the answer

keys. If you get all the correct answer,
then proceed to the next information
sheet. If not, read again Information
sheet 1.1
3.Read Information Sheet 1.1-1 Read information sheet. After reading,
Type of Honing tools
the self –check 1.1-1
4. Perform Task Sheet 1.1-1 Call your trainer and observe if you
about: Layout and Mark are following the right instruction
Dimensions
5. Evaluate your own output After doing all the activities of this
using Performance Criteria task sheet 1.1-1, You are ready to
Checklist 1.1-1 proceed to the next information sheet
1.1-2
Cutting the learner is encourage to answer
about: Cutting are following the right instruction
1.1-3
9. Read Information Sheet 1.1-3 Read information sheet. After reading,
Chipping

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about: Chipping are following the right instruction
1.1-4
Filing
about: Filing are following the right instruction
1.1-5
Drilling, Boring, Counter Boring the learner is encourage to answer
and Spot-facing the self –check 1.1-5
about: Drilling, Boring, Counter are following the right instruction
Boring and Spot-facing
1.1-6
Lapping
about: Lapping are following the right instruction

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1.1-7
Reaming
about: Reaming are following the right instruction
1.1-8
Thread Cutting
about: Thread Cutting are following the right instruction
1.1-9
Offhand grinding
about: Offhand Grinding are following the right instruction
1.2
30. Read Information Sheet 1.2 Read information sheet. After reading,
Types of Scrappers

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31.Answer self- check 1.2 Compare the answers to the answer
keys. If you get all the correct answer,
then proceed to the next information
sheet, if not , read again information
sheet 1.2
Extractors
33. Perform Task Sheet 1.3 about: Call your trainer and observe if you
Extractors are following the right instruction
using Performance Criteria task sheet 1.4, You are ready to
Checklist 1.3 proceed to the next information sheet
1.4
Procedure in removing damaged
bolt
36. Perform Task Sheet 1.4 Call your trainer and observe if you
about: Procedure in removing are following the right instruction
damaged bolt
using Performance Criteria task sheet 1.4, You are ready to
Checklist 1.4 proceed to the next information sheet
2.1
using Performance Criteria unit of competency, You are ready to
Checklist 1.4 proceed to the next unit of
competencyon Turn Workpiece.

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Information Sheet 1.1

Benchwork Operation and Types of Honing Tools
Learning Objectives:
BENCHWORK
The term is used in reference to operations incident to the processes
of laying out, fitting, assembling, etc., when the work is placed on the bench
or bench vise.
Work piece must be clamped or held securely to a clamping device in
performing bench work.
A. CLAMPING/HOLDING DEVICES
Devices used to hold work securely while it is being measured or
machined
Types of Clamping Devices in Benchwork

1. C Clamp
Made in the shape of the letter C and generally used
for all kinds of works
2. Toolmaker’s Clamp/Parallel Clamp

Consist of two flat steel jaws, which maybe adjusted to fit a piece of
work by means of a screw passing though the center of each jaw.
Another screw in the end of one jaw is used to exert pressure on the
other jaw used for holding small parts both at the bench and at
machines.
Right Wron
gg

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3. Toolmaker’s Hand Vise

A small vise with two interchangeable blocks.
The choice of block to be used depends on the
size of the article to be held by the vise. Used by
toolmaker‘s at the bench for small machining
operations like drilling and tapping.
4. Bench Vise
Usually swivel-based (most favorable for
general shop work). It is securely fastened
to the bench with bolts. The faces of the
jaws are usually lightly serrated and
hardened to ensure a firm grip on the work.
5. V-Blocks with Clamps

Used to hold cylindrical work securely during
laying out of measurement or for machine
operations, and can be used singly or in pairs.
B. HAND HACKSAW
A hand hacksaw mainly serves to separate materials and also to

produce grooves and slits. By moving the saw in the direction of cut
(cutting motion) with simultaneous pressure on the saw (cutting
pressure), the teeth penetrate into the material and remove chips.

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HACKSAW BLADE
A piece of thin steel (about .027

in. thick) and ½ in. wide, and can be 6
to 10 in. long. On one end edge of the
blade are serrations known as teeth.
The blades can have 14 to 32
teeth per inch. And are made of high-
grade steels like tool steel, high speed steel or tungsten alloy.
TYPES OF HACKSAW BLADE
1. All-Hard Blade
Blade type that has been hardened all over. Used for cutting
steel, cast iron, and brass and used particular when cutting solid
stock where a straight even cut is desired.
2. Flexible-Back Blade
Type of Blade in which only the part where the teeth are cut is
hardened. The rest of the blade remains relatively soft.
Used for cutting softer metals such as tin, copper, aluminum,
and babbit, and, in particular, for cutting tubing and other structural
slopes with thin cross section.
SIZES OF HACKSAW TEETH
a. 14-Pitch Blade
Used for Cutting Machine steel, cold rolled steel, structural steel
units having thick sections.
Courses pitch is preferred for fast cutting where a smooth cut is
not important.

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b. 18-Pitch Blade
Used for sawing solid stock, including aluminum, babbit, cast
iron, high speed steel, tool steel.
Recommended for general use where a smooth cut surface is
required.
c. 24-Pitch Blade
Used for cutting pipe, tin, brass, copper, small structural-steel
units and sheet metal over 18 gage.
There is less danger of stripping the teeth when two or three
teeth are in contact with the work at all times.
d. 32-Pitch Blade
Used for cutting small tubing, conduit, and sheet metal less
than 18 gage thickness
C. CHISEL TOOLS
A tool made from hexagon or octagon-shaped tool steel or chisel

steel. One end is shaped for the cutting operation, and the other end
is blunt to receive blows from a hammer. Chisel tools are used to chip
away unwanted material in the work piece.
Wedge angle:
• for soft materials 300 to 500
• for mild steel 600 to 700
• for alloyed steels 700 to 800
Types of Chisels
1. Flat Cold Chisels

The most common type of chisel. It is used to chip flat surfaces
and to cut thin sheet metal. It is called a Cold chisel because it is used
to cut metal that have not been heated in a furnace.

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2. Cape Chisel
A narrow chisel used mostly to chip grooves and keyways.
3. Roundnose Chisel
It is used to rough cut small concave surfaces such as filleted
corners. It is also used, on drill-press work to cut small grooves in a
sloping edge of a hole that is off center. This serves to draw the drill
back to place, concentric-with the layout.
4 .Diamond-Point Chisel
Used to cut V-shaped grooves or to chip in sharp corners.
C. TWIST DRILL AND LIP ANGLES
Made primarily for general purpose drilling of metals, they are also
suitable for some wood boring applications. The majority of twist drills have
points that are ground and
sharpened to a fairly flat ―included angle‖ – usually about 90 degrees for soft
materials such as wood and plastic, 118- degrees for aluminum and mild
steels, and 135 degrees for alloyed steels such stainless steel and tool steel.
Oversize hole would be the result if you are going to drill a different lip angle
on certain material.

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D. HAMMER
A very simple striking tool,
it is just a weighted head and a
handle which directs its course.
Hammers are used on the shop
to set-up workpieces on a
machine, forging of metals, testing of materials, and simple bench
work operations. Selection of the correct hammer will aid a machinist
on his job.
Types of Hammer
a. Hard Hammer
Made of carbon steel and forged to shape and size. It is heat
treated to make striking faces hard. Used for striking punches, cold
chisels, steel letters, and figures and also for forging hot metal,
riveting, bending, straightening, peening, stretching, swaging.
Common Hard Hammers Used by
Machinist:
1. Ball-Peen Hammer
Used for general work done in
the machine shop, the rounded
(ball) end is used for riveting and
peening.
2. Straight-Peen Hammer
Type of hammer, which has a
peen-end parallel to the axis of the
handle, and is used for stretching
and drawing out metal when
forging.
3. Cross-Peen Hammer
The peen-end of this hammer is

at right angles to the handle of the
hammer, and it is used for riveting,
stretching and drawing out of
metal.

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Stretching a piece of stock in the direction of

Stretching a piece of stock in the direction of its width, using a cross-peen hammer.
length, using a straight-peen hammer.
b. Soft Hammer
May have the entire head made of
soft metal (like lead, babbit, copper,
or brass). The striking surfaces are
made of plastic, rubber, or rawhide.
Used for striking finished or semi-
finished workpieces, and for seating
a workpiece in a machine vise or
chuck.
E.PLIERS
Used for holding and gripping small particles in situations

where it may be inconvenient or unsafe to use hands.
Types of Pliers
1. Long-Nose Pliers
Made with long tapering

nose or jaws, and preferred for
electrical and radio repair work.
Used for placing and
removing small items in narrow

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spaces.
2. Diagonal Pliers
Special type of pliers, used exclusively for cutting and stripping
wire.
Figure 14.10. Diagonals
(a) Right and (b) wrong way to use diagonals.
(a) (b)
F.FILES
A hardened-steel cutting tool having parallel rows of cutting
edges, or teeth on its surfaces. On the two wide surfaces, the rows
are usually diagonal to the edge.
CLASSIFICATION OF FILES
1. Single-Cut Files
Types of files with rows of teeth running in one end directions
across their wide surfaces.
These files do not remove stock as fast as double-cut files, but
produce smoother surface finish.

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Bastard Second Cut Smooth
2. Double-Cut Files
Type of files with the same rows of teeth like those of single-cut
files, and in addition, have a second row of teeth cut diagonally to the
first row.
Figure 47.00. Teeth of typical double-cut files
Rough Bastard Second Cut Smooth
Note:
Both classes of files are made in similar grades or pitch. The smaller
the file, the finer the pitch.

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Types of Files
Flat File
Triangle File
Square File
Round File
Half-Round File
G.WRENCHES
Wrenches are tools for turning nuts or bolts. They may consist of a
slot, socket, pins, or movable jaws for grasping the nut.
Types of Wrenches
1. Single-Ended Wrench
A wrench that is made to fit one
size of nut or bolt.
2. Double-Ended Wrench
It has two openings, one at
each end of the handle, to fit two
different sizes of nuts and bolt head

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3. Closed-Ended Wrench/Box Wrench
Similar to a single-ended
wrench, but it entirely encloses a
nut which provide little danger
that the wrench may slip of the nut, or for jaws to spread the part
4. Adjustable Wrench
With movable jaw, this makes

it adjustable to various sizes of nuts.
When using this type of tool, point the jaws

in the direction of the force applied to prevent from
spreading apart.
5. Lever-Jaw Wrench/ Vise Grip

A combination-gripping tool
with adjustable jaws, which maybe
locked in place.
It can be used as a wrench,
clamp, pliers or vise.
6. Combination Wrench
With two types of openings of the
same size, one end has a box type
opening and the other end is designed
as an open end.
7. Check-Nut Wrench
A thin single-ended or double-
ended wrench used for turning check or
jam nuts.
These are not intended for hard
use and the openings are offset at an angle of 15 degrees.

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8. Tool-Post Wrench
A Combination box and open-end
wrench. The open end is straight rather
than offset. The square box end is
designed to fit tool-post screws and set
screws on lathes and other machine tools.
It is ruggedly designed to withstand wear and hard use.
9. Square Box Wrench

A single-head, close-end wrench
having a rather short handle. It is widely
used for square-head setscrews on tool
holders for lathes and other machine
tools.
The square opening is made at angle of 22 ½ degrees for
convenience.
10. T-Handle Tap Wrench/T-Tap Wrench

Used to hold and turn taps up to about ½ inch.
it has three inserted jaws, which can be adjusted to fit the
square end of the tap.
Figure 28.00. T-Handle Wrench
Figure 28.10. Using a T-handle Tap

Wrench
11. Adjustable Tap Wrench

Used to hold and turn taps up to about ½ inch.
It has two inserted jaws, which can be adjusted to fit the square
end of the tap.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
23
12. 12 Point Box Wrench

Designed with 12 notches, or
points, inside a closed end. The points
of a nut may be gripped by any of the
notches, which permit nut turning
even if only a short pull of the wrench
is possible.
13. T-Socket Wrench

Made in the form of letter T. with
socket in the end, which is made in a
variety of shapes such as square,
hexagonal octagonal.
Used in instances where
insufficient space is available.
The handle can be removed from
the hexagonal head to permit the use other wrench to turn it.
14. Adjustable Pin-Face Wrench

Designed with two arms, each having
a pin in one end.
Used to adjust nuts that are
enclosed. The nut in this situation is made
with holes around the face to accommodate
the pins.
15. Strap Wrench

Used for turning cylindrical parts or
pipes, removing bezels, or holding or
revolving any job, on which the surface
finish must be preserved.
16. Pipe Wrench

A Stillson-type pipe wrench is
designed with adjustable serrated jaws,
making it possible to grip round pipes and
other cylindrical parts.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
24
17. Allen Wrench / Hex Key Wrench

Made of hexagonal-shaped stock to fit the
holes in the head of or screws or socket-head
screws.
18. Socket Wrench and Ratchet
Socket wrenches are round box type wrenches having two

openings. One opening is square hole into which the various driving
attachments used for turning the socket wrench are plugged.
Figure 36.10. A Reversible Ratchet
Figure 36.20.Standard, or regular 8-

and 12- Point Sockets.
19. Torque Wrench

Used when it is necessary to
know the amount of turning or
twisting force being applied to a
nut.
The amount of force is
usually indicated on a dial or scale,
which is mounted on the wrench
handle.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
25
H. COMMON PUNCHES
1. Prick Punch
Used to mark lightly or indent the intersections of layout, to

locate hole centers, and to provide a small center mark for divider
points when laying out circles or spacing dimensions.
2. Center Punch
Used to enlarge a prick-punch mark so that a drill can be

started in the exact location
Honing stones
Super abrasives and hone head for cylinders.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
26
Honing tools
Honing uses a special tool, called a honing stone or a hone, to achieve a precision
surface. The hone is composed of abrasive grains that are bound together with an
adhesive. Generally, honing grains are irregularly shaped and about 10 to 50
micrometers in diameter (300 to 1,500 mesh grit). Smaller grain sizes produce a
smoother surface on the work piece.
A honing stone is similar to a grinding wheel in many ways, but honing stones are
usually more friable so that they conform to the shape of the work piece as they
wear in. To counteract their friability, honing stones may be treated with wax or
sulfur to improve life; wax is usually preferred for environmental reasons.
Any abrasive material may be used to create a honing stone, but the most
commonly used are corundum, silicon carbide, cubic boron nitride, or diamond.
The choice of abrasive material is usually driven by the characteristics of the work
piece material. In most cases, corundum or silicon carbide are acceptable, but
extremely hard work piece materials must be honed using super abrasives.
The hone is usually turned in the bore while being moved in and out.
Special cutting fluids are used to give a smooth cutting action and to remove the
material that has been abraded. Machines can be portable, simple manual
machines, or fully automatic with gauging depending on the application.
Modern advances in abrasives have made it possible to remove much larger

amount of material than was previously possible. This has displaced grinding in
many applications where "through machining" is possible. External hones perform
the same function on shafts.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
27
BENCHWORK OPERATIONS
1. CUTTING
Cutting is performed with a hacksaw
and is done either to cut a material into
pieces or to reduce it in size by
removing a metal.
CORRECT HACKSAW CUTTING PROCEDURE.
In order to achieve a perfect cut,

file with a triangular file a small
notch beside the marking line to
get a good start, then place the saw
with an angle of tilt (as shown in
the picture on the right) and start
with sawing.
· Forward stroke with
pressure.
· Return stroke without
pressure.
· Use the full length of the
saw blade.
· Saw in a straight line along
the marking line.
DO NOT CUT TO FAST! 50 T0 60 STROKES PER MINUTE IS

RECOMMENDED
Common Causes of Hacksaw Blade Breakage

a. Using a course-teeth blade on thin metal.
b. Drawing the blade too tightly in the frame and canting/tilting it
over while in the in the act of sawing.
c. Using too much pressure on the blade.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
28
2. CHIPPING
Chipping is done to shape the blank by
removing extra metal from its edge for
reducing it in size.
Chipping is performed with the use of a

chisel driven into the metal with
hammer.
3. COUNTERSINKING
The operation of producing an angular surface at the end of a
hole.
A cutting tool called a COUNTERSINK is used.
Countersinks are available in various diameter sizes and

several angles.
The.angle size depends upon the reason for countersinking.
Combined Drill and Countersink

Commonly referred to as a CENTER DRILL.
It is largely used for drilling center holes in
the work that is to be turned between
centers in the lathe and for starting holes
in the correct location on a drilling machine
4. REAMING
Reaming is the operation of finishing a drilled hole.
When accuracy is required, the hole must be drilled
undersize by a
certain amount and finished by reaming

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
29
5. COUNTERBORING
The operation of boring a second hole, larger in diameter
than
the first hole, but concentric with it. If the operation is
done in a drilling machine, a tool known as a
COUNTERBORE is used.
The small diameter on the end of the tool, known as the
PILOT,
keeps the counterbore concentric with the original hole.
Pilots are interchangeable, so as to fit various sizes of holes
6. FILING
A method of removing small amounts of
material from the surface of a piece of
metal or solid material.
File Handling
Ensure that the file grip is properly attached, that it has the right
dimension and it is not damaged.
• Clamp the work-piece properly
• Use protective jaws (Aluminum) to protect the work-piece.
• Start with a rough file
• Use a smooth file to reach a good surface.
• Forward stroke with pressure; Return stroke without
pressure.
• Move with the file crosswise to control the area of filing.
• Clean the file (especially smooth files) by using a wire brush
or steel brush

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
30
7. TAPPING
Holes that are to be tapped (threaded) are first drilled to a specified
size, in order to tap holes on a standard drilling machine.
8. LAPPING
Lapping is a bench work operation, in which two surfaces are rubbed
together with an abrasive between them, by hand movement or by way of a
machine.
Lapping is a method of removing very small amounts of material by
means of an abrasive. The abrasive is kept in contact with the sides of
a hole to be lapped, by the use of a lapping tool.
There are several kinds of lapping tool. (Ex. Copper-head lap)
Lapping is a slow, tedious job. Only a few thousands of an inch is
removed by this method.
LAPPING USING ABRASIVE DRILL

LAPPING USING WET AND DRY SAND PAPER

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
31
7. HONING
Honing is an abrasive machining process that produces
a precision surface on a metal work piece by scrubbing
an abrasive stone against it along a controlled path.
Honing is primarily used to improve the geometric form
of a surface, but may also improve the surface texture.
typical applications are the finishing
of cylinders for internal combustion engines, air
bearing spindles and gears. types of hone are many and
various but all consist of one or more abrasive stones
that are held under pressure against the surface they
are working on.
8. LAYING OUT
―Laying out‖ is a shop term which means to scribe lines, circles,
centers, and so forth, upon the surface of any material to serve as a
guide in shaping the finished work piece.
SCRIBING LINES ON METAL

The shiny surface, found on most metals, makes it difficult
to see the layout lines. Layout dye when applied to the metal surface,
makes it easier for the layout lines to be seen. Layout dye is usually
blue and offers an excellent contrast between the metal and the layout
lines.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
32
COMMON LAYOUTING TOOLS
Scriber
To obtain an accurate layout, fine lines must be
scribed in the metal. A scriber is the layout tool
that is used to produce these lines. The point is
made of hardened steel
and is kept chain by honing on an oilstone.
Divider
When laying out circles, arcs, and radii, it is best to
use the divider The legs of the divider must be of
the same length and be kept sharp. The divider cart
be used to lay out

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
33
SELF CHECK 1.1
1. It is the operations incident to the processes of laying out, fitting,

assembling, etc., when the work is placed on the bench or bench
vise?
a. Bench work
b. Turning
c. Milling
d. Grinding
2. It is a hacksaw pitch blade used for Cutting Machine steel, cold

rolled steel, structural steel units having thick sections?
a. 14 pitch
b. 18 pitch
c. 24 pitch
d. 32 pitch
3. The Recommended strokes per minute in hack sawing?

a. 10 to 30 strokes per minute
b. 30 to 40 strokes per minute
c. 70 to 80 strokes per minute
d. 50 to 60 strokes per minute
4. A wrench that has two types of openings of the same size, one end
has a box type opening and the other end is designed as an open
end?
a. Box wrench
b. Double ended wrench
c. Combination wrench
d. Torque Wrench
5. It has two inserted jaws, which can be adjusted to fit the square
end of the tap?
a. Adjustable tap wrench
b. T- handle tap wrench
c. T wrench
d. T- tap wrench
6. Used to enlarge a prick-punch mark so that a drill can be started

in the exact location?
a. Center punch
b. Circle punch
c. Point punch

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
34
7. Bench work operations performed with the use of a chisel driven

into the metal with hammer?
a. Sawing
b. Chipping
c. Lapping
d. Lay out
8. Bench work operation used for finishing a drilled hole?

a. Lapping
b. Tapping
c. Reaming
d. Honing
9. Bench work operation used for creating threads on a hole?

a. Lapping
b. Tapping
c. Reaming
d. Honing
10. It is a bench work operation, in which two surfaces are rubbed together
with an abrasive between them, by hand movement or by way of a
machine?
a. Lapping
b. Tapping
c. Reaming
d. Honing
11. An abrasive machining process that produces a precision surface on

a metal work piece by scrubbing an abrasive stone against it along a
controlled path.?
a. Lapping
b. Tapping
c. Reaming
d. Honing
12. Operation to scribe lines, circles, centers, and so forth, upon the
surface of any material to serve as a guide in shaping the finished
work piece?
a. Sawing
b. Chipping
c. Honing
d. Laying out

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
35
13. The drilled point angle for drilling mild steels?

a. 90 degrees
b. 118 degrees
c. 135 degrees
d. 150 degrees
14.The result to the hole if a different lip angle of a twist drill is used?
a. Counter bored
b. Countersink
c. Oversized
d. Undersized
15.File to be used in rough cuts?

a. Bastard
b. Second cut
c. Smooth
16.File to be used to achieve a good surface finish on a material?

a. Bastard
b. Second cut
c. Smooth

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
36
ANSWER KEY
1. A.
2. B.
3. D.
4. C.
5. A.
6. A.
7. B.
8. C.
9. B.
10. A.
11. D.
12. D.
13. B.
14. C.
15. A.
16. C.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
37
INFORMATION SHEET 1.1-1
Layout and Mark Dimensions

―Laying out‖ is a shop term which means to scribe lines, circles, centers, and so
forth, upon the surface of any material to serve as a guide in shaping the finished
work piece.
SCRIBING LINES ON METAL

The shiny surface, found on most metals, makes it difficult
to see the layout lines. Layout dye when applied to the metal surface, makes
it easier for the layout lines to be seen. Layout dye is usually blue and offers
an excellent contrast between the metal and the layout lines.
COMMON LAYOUTTOOLS
Scriber
To obtain an accurate layout, fine lines must be
scribed in the metal. A scriber is the layout tool that
is used to produce these lines. The point is made of
hardened steel
and is kept chain by honing on an oilstone.
Divider
When laying out circles, arcs, and radii, it is best to use
the divider The legs of the divider must be of the same
length and be kept sharp. The divider cart be used to lay
out and measure distances.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
38
Surface Plate
A surface plate provides a true, smooth, plane surface. It is used in
conjunction with surface and height gages as a level base on which
the gages and the workpiece are placed to obtain accurate
measurements. These plates are made of semi-steel or granite and
should never be used for any job that would scratch or nick the
surface.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
39
LAYING OUT PROCEDURES

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
40
Layout Procedure… with Divider
2. Punch the center of the circle

3. Adjust the divider to the proper radius while using a steel rule or a
vernier caliber
4. Place one point of the divider in the center punch hole and give
some force to this leg.
Laying out circles Laying out parallel lines
Using a divider to lay-out equal measurement.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
41
Layout Procedure: Center Punch Procedure
1. Make sure that the point of the punch is sharp before starting.
2. Hold the punch at a 45 degree angle and place the point carefully
on the layout line.
3. Tilt the punch to a vertical position and strike it gently with a

hammer.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
42
Vernier Height Gage

The vernier height gage is a caliper with a special foot block to adapt it for use
on a surface plate. Height gages are available in several sizes: the most
common are the 10, 18, and 24 inch gages in English measure and the 25 and
46 cm gages in metric measure. Like the vernier caliper, these height gages are
graduated in divisions of 0.025 inch and a vernier scale of 25 units for reading
measurements to thousandths of an inch. Always be sure the bottom of the foot
block is clean and free from burrs.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
43
TASK SHEET 1.1-1

Title: Performing Bench Work: Layout and Mark Dimensions
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures in layout and mark
dimensions
Supplies/Materials: Drawing/Plan, Workpiece
Equipment: Try-square, steel rule, file, scriber
Procedure:
1. Remove all burrs from the workpiece
2. Clean the workpiece properly
3. Use a try-square and a steel rule
4. Place the point of the scriber on the workpiece against the try-square edge
5. Hold the scriber from the workpiece in direction in which it is to be
drawn.
Assessment Method: Direct observation

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
44
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.1-1
Trainee’s Name Date
Competency Learning Materials Checklist

YES NO
Did you……
1. Removed all burrs from the workpiece
2. Cleaned the workpiece properly
3. Used a try-square and a steel rule
4. Placed the point of the scriber on the workpiece
against the try-square edge
5. Held the scriber from the workpiece in direction in

which it is to be drawn.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
45
CUTTING
Cutting is performed with a hacksaw and is done either to cut a material into
pieces or to reduce it in size by removing a metal.
Hacksaws and Sawing
Hacksaws
A hand tool especially designed for

cutting metal. It consists of a metal frame,
in the end of which are metal clips to hold
the cutting blade. One clip is threaded on
one end for a wing nut, is used for blade
tightening.
Hacksaw Blade
A piece of thin steel (about 0.027

thick) and ½ in. wide, and can be 6 to 10
in. long. On one end edge of the blade
are serrations known as teeth.
The blades can have 14 to 32

teeth per inch. And are made of high-
grade steeels like tool steel, high speed steel or tungsten alloy.
Set of a Saw
The bending to one side or both sides of the teeth of the saw. The teeth are
set so that the slot made by the saw will be slightly wider than the blade thickness.
Types of Hacksaw Blade
1. All-Hard Blade
Blade type that has been hardened all over. Used for cutting steel, cast iron,
and brass and used particular when cutting solid stock where a straight even cut is
desired.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
46
2. Flexible-Back Blade
Type of blade in which only the part where the teeth are cut is hardened. The
rest of the blade remains relatively soft. Used for cutting softer metals such as tin,
copper, aluminum and babbit, and in particular for cutting tubing and other
structural slopes with thin cross section.
In cutting these materials, the blade has a tendency to twist or be pulled out
of line, the flexible blade will yield unde these conditions and will not break.
Size of Hacksaw Teeth
a. 14-Pitch Blade
Used for cutting machine steel, cold rolled steel, structural steel units having
thick sections. Courses pitch is preferred for fast cutting where a smooth cut is not
important.
b. 18-Pitch Blade
used for sawing solid stock, inlcuding aluminum, babbit, cast iron, high
speed steel, tool steel. Recommended for general use where a smooth cut surface is
requrieed.
c. 24-Pitch Blade
Used for cutting pipe, tin, brass, copper, small structural-steel untis and
sheet metal over 18 gage. There is less danger of stripping the teeth when two or
three teeth are in contact with the work at all times.
d. 32-Pitch Blade
Used for cutting small tubing, conduit, and sheet metal less than 18 gage
thickness
b. Drawing the blade too tightly in the frame and canting/tilting it
over while in the in the act of sawing.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
47
Rules in Using a Handsaw
a. Use a blade with the correct pitch for the job to be done.
b. Saw as close as possible to the point where the work is clamped
to prevent chattering.
c. Do not cut too fast. 50 to 60 strokes per minute is recommended.
d. Relieve the pressure on the saw on the return stroke.
e. Do not press too hard on the work.
f. Reduce pressure on the forward stroke when the blade is almost
Through the cut.
Guidelines in Sawing
1. Blades should be placed with the teeth pointing forward.
Best result is obtained when cutting is done on the forward or
pushing stroke.
2. Blades may be set in four different positions, so that the teeth may
face down, up, left or right. The clips at the end of the frame may
be turned in four different positions for this purposes.
3. Work pieces to be cut must be placed in a vise, so that as much as
possible of the surface may be presented to the edge of the table.
4. Avoid starting to saw on a corner. Corners have a tendency to strip
teeth from the blade. The work piece should be held securely on
the vise and cutting should take place close to the end of the vise
jaw to avoid chattering or vibrating of the work.
5. Clamp thin stock between two pieces of wood or soft steel, and
then saw through all together. Thin stock, it not supported, will
bend under the pressure of saw.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
48
6. Start a new cut after replacing a worn out blade. The set of teeth of an old blade
will be worn out slightly, and so the cut made by it will be narrower than the new
blade..The new blade will break if it is forced into the old cut.
In order to achieve a perfect cut, file with a triangular file a small notch beside the
marking line to get a good start, then place the saw with an angle of tilt (as shown
in the picture below) and start with sawing.
Forward stroke with pressure.
· Return stroke without pressure.
· Use the full length of the
saw blade.
· Saw in a straight line along
the marking line.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
49
CORRECT HACKSAW CUTTING PROCEDURE.
1. Mount the workpiece in the vise.

2. Measure and mark the workpiece to be cut.
3. File with a triangular file a small notch
beside the marking line to get a good start.
4. Place the saw with an angle of tilt.
5. Start sawing
Note: a. Forward stroke with pressure
b. Return stroke without pressure
c. Use the full length of the blade
d. Saw straight line along the marking line
DO NOT CUT TO FAST! 50 T0 60

STROKES PER MINUTE IS
RECOMMENDED

b. Drawing the blade too tightly in the frame and canting/tilting it over while in
the in the act of sawing.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
50
Steps in using power hacksaw
 Mount the work to be cut inside the vise

 Lower the frame so that the blade is about 1/8" from touching
the material
 Using a scale, measure from the outer edge of the blade to the
end of the work-piece
 Tighten the vise NOTE: movable jaw pivot bolt must be hand
tight only. If this bolt is over tighten, the vise will not securely
fasten
 Recheck measurement
 If multiple parts of the same size are to be cut, set the work
stop to the desired length. NOTE: to prevent damage to the
blade, a gap must be provided between the stop and the
workpiece.
 Release the frame so that it rises to the start position. This will
prevent the blade from contacting the material on the first
stroke, which could damage the blade
 Select the proper speed and feed
 Turn machine on
 Engage power feed lever
 With a new blade, never start on a previously started location
as this will cause the new blade to bind and break
 Verify that coolant is directed to area of blade contact to
ensure cooling and chip wash

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
51
TASK SHEET 1.1-2

Title: Performing Bench Work: Cutting
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures in cutting
Equipment: Hand hack saw, blade, bench vise
Procedure:
1. Mount the workpiece in the vise
2. Tighten the vise
3. Measure and mark the workpiece to be cut
4. File with a triangular file a small notch beside the marking
line to get a good start.
5. Place the saw with an angle of tilt.
6. Start sawing

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
52

YES NO
Did you……
1. Mounted the workpiece in the vise?
2. Tightened the vise?
3. Measured and marked the workpiece to be

cut?
4. Filed with a triangular file a small notch

beside the marking line to get a good
start?
5. Placed the saw with an angle of tilt.
6. Start sawing?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
53
CHIPPING
Chipping is done to shape the blank by removing extra metal from its edge
for reducing it in size.
Chipping is performed with the use of a chisel driven into the metal with
hammer.
Chisels And Chipping
Files with straight shanks are used in filing machines. One of the
earliest methods of shaping a piece of wood, stone or metal was to chip away
the unwanted material with a hammer and chisel.
When chipping away materials, there is always the danger that dying
particles could injure the eyes. For this reason, goggles must be worn by the
worker, and a chipping guard is used to protect those who are near or
passing by.
Chisels
A tool made from hexagon or octagon-shaped tool steel or chisel steel. One
end is shaped for the cutting operation, and the
other end is blunt to receive blows from a hammer.
Chisels are usually forged to shape, then annealed, hardened,
and tempered, or in general term, heat-treated. Finally, a cutting
edge is ground.
Annealing relieves the internal strains of the metal, which
developed during forging operation. This makes the chisel tough
and strong.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
54
Hardening of the metal makes it possible for a chisel to
maintain a sharp cutting edge. Only the cutting end, and usually
for a distance of 1 inch from the end is hardened. The other end
is not hardened to prevent it from chipping when hammered.
Tempering reduces the brittleness of the metal so that the
cutting edge of the chisel is less liable to be fractured
Types of Chisels
1. Flat Cold Chisels
The most common type of chisel. It is used to chip flat surfaces

and to cut thin sheet metal.
It is called a Cold chisel because it is used to cut metal that have not
been heated in a furnace.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
55
2. Cape Chisel
A narrow chisel used mostly to chip grooves and keyways.
3. Round nose Chisel
It is used to rough cut small concave surfaces such as filleted corners.
It is also used, on drill-press work to cut small grooves in a sloping

edge of a hole that is off center. This serves to draw the drill back to place,
concentric-with the layout.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
56
4. Diamond-Point Chisel
Used to cut V-shaped grooves or to chip in sharp corners.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
57
Guidelines in Grinding Chisel Edges
1. Grinding of Cutting Angles
The correct cutting angles

depend upon the hardness of the
material to be cut.
An angle of 60 degrees is
suitable for cast iron and steel. For
soft metal, the angle should be less.
The use of a 90 degree angle or larger will tend to remove

stock by pushing it off rather than cutting it off.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
58
2. Sharpening of Cold Chisels
Cold chisels should be

held at the required angle and
moved back and forth across
the face of the grinding wheel
to insure an even surface.
.
The pressure of the chisel

on the wheel must be enough
(prevent chattering, (vibrating
or bouncing of the chisel edge
against the grinding wheel).
Avoid pressing too hard that the edges of the chisel become
overheated, which draws the temper of (lie steel and make.
cutting edges soft. Curving the cutting edge of the chisel results
in a better cutting action.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
59
3. Removal of Mushroom Head of a Chisel
A mushroom head on a chisel is a head that has been

hammered until the end spread out to resemble a mushroom.
The mushroom part of the chisel head may break off when
struck by a hammer, and the ragged edge may also injure the
hand of the person holding the chisel. For this reason, the
mushroom head of a chisel must always be ground off and it is
also advisable to sharpen the cutting edge before using the
chisel.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
60
4. How to hold a chisel properly
CHIPPING PROCEDURE
1. Wear safety glasses, and use a chisel that's 25 percent wider

than what you're cutting.
2. Sharpen the chisel to a 60- to 70-degree bevel. It takes just a

few seconds on a grinder to refresh the cutting edges.
3. Apply a little 30-weight oil to the cutting edges before use.

This reduces friction, which increases the tool's cutting ability.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
61
4. Position the workpiece in the middle of the jaws and tighten
the vise firmly. This is not a task for a dainty vise; use a heavy-
duty bench model.
5. To maximize the power of each strike, align the chisel with the
vise's screw and cut perpendicular to the jaws.
6. Don't use a chisel with a damaged end. Grind off any curled
metal before it splinters off.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
62

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
63
TASK SHEET 1.1-3

Title: Performing Bench Work: Chipping
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures in chipping
Equipment: Cold Chisel, Bench Vise, Portable Grinder, Hammer
1. Wear safety glasses, and use a chisel that's 25 percent wider than what
you're cutting.
2. Sharpen the chisel to a 60- to 70-degree bevel.
3. Apply a little 30-weight oil to the cutting edges before use.
4. Position the workpiece in the middle of the jaws and tighten the
vise firmly.
5. Align the chisel with the vise's screw and cut perpendicular to
the jaws.
6. Grind off any curled metal before it splinters off.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
64

YES NO
Did you…
1.Wear safety glasses, and use a chisel that's 25
percent wider than what you're cutting.
2. Sharpened the chisel to a 60- to 70-degree
bevel?
3. Applied a little 30-weight oil to the cutting
edges before use?
4. Positioned the workpiece in the middle of the
jaws and tightened the vise firmly?
5. Aligned the chisel with the vise's screw and cut
perpendicular to the jaws?
6. Grinded off any curled metal before it splinters
off?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
65
FILING
Files and Filing
Filing
 A method of removing small amounts of material from

the surface of a piece of metal or solid material.
File
 It is hardened-steel cutting tool having parallel rows of

cutting edges, or teeth on its surfaces. On the two wide
surfaces, the rows are usually diagonal to the edge.
 The edge of a file on which no teeth have been cut.

This edge keeps one side of piece of work safe while an
adjacent surface is being filed.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
66
File Handling
Ensure that the file grip is
properly attached, that it has the
right dimension and it is not
damaged.
• Clamp the work-piece
properly
• Use protective jaws
(Aluminum) to protect the work-
piece.
• Start with a rough file
• Use a smooth file to
reach a good surface.
• Forward stroke with pressure; Return stroke without
pressure.
• Move with the file crosswise to control the area of filing.
• Clean the file (especially smooth files) by using a wire brush
or steel brush
Classification of Files
1. Single-Cut Files
Types of files with rows of teeth running in one end

directions across their wide surfaces.
These files do not remove stock as fast as double-cut files,

but produce smoother surface finish.
Bastard Second Cut Smooth
Single Cut File: For Finishing Metal Edges

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
67
2. Double-Cut Files
Type of files with the same rows of teeth like those of single-
cut files, and in addition, have a second row of teeth cut
diagonally to the first row.
Rough Bastard Second Cut Smooth
Double Cut File: For Removing Large

Particles for Shaping
Note:
Both classes of files are made in similar grades or

pitch. The smaller the file, the finer the pitch.
Type of Files
1. Mill File
A single-cut file first for filing mill saws.Used for producing

smooth or fine finish. Also used for works on lathes, draw filing,
and for finishing various compositions of brass and
bronze.Available in lengths of 6-16 inches.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
68
2. Flat File
These are types of files with rows of teeth running in one

end directions across their wide surfaces.Mostly double-cut and
used when a fast-cutting file is needed.This type of file produces
a comparatively rough finish and available in lengths of 6-18
inches.
3. Pillar File
Similar to a flat file, except that it is narrower and one or

both edges are safe edges.Used for filing slots, keyways and filing
against shoulders. Available in lengths from 6-16 inches.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
69
4. Square File
Type of file that has a square cross-section and has double-

cut teeth on all four sides.Used for filing small square, or
rectangular holes, and for finishing the bottoms of narrow
slots.Usually with bastard grade and 4-16 inches long.
5. Round File
The Cross-section of this file is circular, and it is generally

tapered. Small sizes are called RATTAIL FILES.Used for rounding
irregular holes, and for finishing fillets.Usually with bastard
grade and 4-16 inches long.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
70
6. Three-Square File
Commonly called the THREE-CORNERED FILE, with

triangular cross-section with angles of 60 degrees, and it tapers
to the point while the corners are left sharp.It is double-cut on all
three sides and single-cut on the edges.Generally used for filing
internal angles less than 90 degrees, for clearing out square
corners, and for filing taps, cutters, and for sharpening
saws.Preferred with bastard and second-cut grades, and available
in lengths of 4-16 inches.
7. Half-Round File
A double-cut file with one flat surface and the other side
half rounded.Used when filing concave surfaces. It is preferred
with bastard grade and 6-16 inches long.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
71
8. Knife File
Knife-shaped file, with the included angle of the sharp edge

at approximately 10 degrees.This file tapers to the point in width
and thickness, and double cut on both sides and single-cut on
both edges.Used for finishing sharp corners of slots and
grooves.Preferred with bastard grade, and is 6-12 inches long.
9. Warding File
Rectangular in cross-section, but it tapers in narrow point

in width.Used mostly by locksmiths for filing notches in keys and
locks.Double-cut type of file and is 4-12 inches long.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
72
10. Swiss Pattern Files
These are similar to ordinary files, but are made to more

exacting measurements. The points of Swiss pattern files are
smaller, and the tapered files have longer taper, and are made in
finer cuts.These are primarily finishing tools, used to remove
burrs; truing out narrow grooves, notches and keyways; rounding
out slots and clearing out corners; and doing the final finishing
on all sorts of delicate and intricate pieces.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
73
11. Swiss Pattern Crossing File
Files with double circular cross-section, one side having the

same radius as the half-round file and the other side having a
flatter curve, or a larger radius.It tapers to the point, both in
width and thickness and is double-cut on both sides.Available in
grades of 00-6, and lengths of 3-10 inches.
12. Needle Files
Members of the Swiss pattern family. They usually come

insets of assorted shapes.Used by tool and die makers, and also
by watch and clockmakers.One end of the file is knurled so that a
separate handle is not needed.Available in grades 0, 2, 4, and 6,
and in lengths of 4, 5 ½, and 6 ½ inches.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
74
Safety Rules
Convexity of Files
Files are usually made with a convex surface. This is done

to prevent all the teeth from cutting at the same time because
that would require too much pressure on a file and make it hard
to control.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
75
A flat surface could not be obtained if the face of the file is

straight because there is a tendency to rock the file. The convex
shape helps to overcome the effects of rocking.
The Convexity of files also serves another purpose. The

pressure applied to a file, to make it bite in to the work, also
bends the file little. If a flat is used, it would bend during filing
and eventually cut away more at the edges of the work than in
the center, thus a flat file will leave a convex surface. The convex
shape of the file helps prevent this situation.
Guidelines in Filing
1. Proper way to hold a file
Grasp the handle in the right hand so that it resist against the
palm of the hand, with the thumb placed on top. Place the left
hand at the end of the file and let the fingers curl under it.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
76
2. Body Position when Filing
The left foot should point forward and the right foot brought
up close enough to the left to give necessary balance. When filing,
the body should lean forward stroke, and then return to the
original position to the finish stroke. The file must be held
straight, or else the surface will not be flat
3. Filing Stroke
The stroke, or the filing motion, should never be too

fast because this will ruin the file and the work. Enough
pressure to be applied to make the file cut evenly. Do not lift the
file from the work on the return stroke, but release the downward
pressure during the return stroke to avoid dulling file by wearing
away the back of the teeth; this will damage the cutting edge. In
filing soft metals however, the file should be drawn back on the
return stroke to help clean the teeth.
4. File Cutting Actions
A file cuts best after it has cut about 2,500 strokes, or after
it has removed 1 cu. Inch of material. At that point, most of the
cutting edges will be in contact with the work. Continued use will
wear out cutting edges and thus decrease the cutting action of
the file, until the file eventually dulls out. A large double-cut
bastard or double-cut coarse-tooth file removes stock rapidly. A
10-inch, single-cut smooth file is
preferred for finishing purposes.
5. Draw Filing
Draw filing is the operation of

pushing and pulling a file sidewise
across the work.Draw filing produces a
surface with a finer finish than straight

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
77
filing. The objective of draw filing is to produce a perfectly

smooth, level surface. A single-cut mill file is preferred for
finishing operation.
6. Crossing the Stroke
Crossing the stroke means

changing the angle at which a file is
held, by about 45 degrees. This will
show the high spots and also tend
to keep the work flat.
7. Pinning a File
Small particles of material

being filed tend to clog the gullets
between the teeth of the file when
filing soft metals, narrow
surfaces, or corners. This is
pinning a file. This is caused by
applying too much pressure on the
File Card
file, especially when using smooth
files. The rubbing chalk on the file
helps prevent pinning. A file may be cleaned with a file brush,
which has fine wires on one side, which remove embedded
materials; and bristles on the other side to finish cleaning the
file.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
78
8. Designating Files
A file is designated by its length, shape, and grade. When

buying a file, the quantity desired should be specified first.
Ex.12 pcs. 6-inch half-round, second-cut files
6 pcs. 12-inch flat, bastard files
9. Filing Machine
A device used for holding a file and moving it with a

vertical reciprocating action. The work is placed on a table and
pressed against a moving file.Files with straight shanks are used
in filing machines.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
79
TASK SHEET 1.1-4

Title: Performing Bench Work: Filing
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures in filling
Equipment: File, bench vise, file card
1. Clamp the work-piece properly
2. Use protective jaws to protect the work-piece
3. Start with a rough file
4. Use a smooth file to reach a good surface.
5. Stroke forward with pressure; Stroke backward without pressure.
6. Move with the file crosswise to control the area of filing.
7. Clean the file (especially smooth files) by using a wire brush or
steel brush

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
80

YES NO
Did you…
1. Clamped the work-piece properly?
2. Used protective jaws to protect the work-piece?
3. Started with a rough file?
4. Used a smooth file to reach a good surface?
5. Stroked forward with pressure; stroked

backward without pressure?
6. Moved with the file crosswise to control the

area of filing?
7. Cleaned the file (especially smooth files) by

using a wire brush or steel brush

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
81
DRILLING, BORING, COUNTER BORING, SPOT FACING
DRILLING
1. Preparing to Drill
Before drilling you need to make

sure that the drill chuck is firmly
seated in the tailstock. With the
chuck arbor loosely inserted in the
tailstock bore, crank the tailstock
bore out about 1/2". Lock the
tailstock to the ways, then thrust
the chuck firmly back towards the tailstock to firmly seat the arbor
in the Morse taper of the tailstock.
(The chuck is removed from the
tailstock by cranking the tailstock
ram back until the arbor is forced
out).
Choose a center drill with a diameter

similar to that of the hole that you
intend to drill. Insert the center drill
in the jaws of the tailstock chuck
and tighten the chuck until the jaws just start to grip the drill.
Since the goal is to make the drill as stiff as possible, you don't
want it to extend very far from the
tip of the jaws. Twist the drill to seat
it and dislodge any metal chips or
other crud that might keep the drill
from seating properly. Now tighten
the chuck. It's good practice to use
2 or 3 of the chuck key holes to
ensure even tightening (but all three
may be impossible to reach given the tight confines of the 7x10).
Slide the tailstock along the ways until the tip of the center drill is
about 1/4" from the end of the workpiece and tighten the tailstock

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
82
clamp nut. The locking lever for the tailstock ram
should be just snug - not enough to impede the
movement of the ram, but enough to ensure that
the ram is as rigid as possible.
2. Cutting Fluid
Unless I'm working with brass, I nearly always

use a cutting fluid when drilling. Particularly with
aluminum, which tends to grab the drill, this
helps to ensure a smooth and accurate hole. I use
Tap Magic brand cutting fluid but there are several other excellent
brands available.
You only need a few drops at a time, so

a small can should last for a long time.
I use a small needle tipped bottle to
apply fluid to the work. The bottle
originally contained light oil & was
obtained at Home Depot.
3. Center Drilling
Turn on the lathe and set the speed to around 600 RPM. Use the
tailstock crank to advance the drill slowly into the end of the
workpiece and continue until the conical section of the center drill
is about 3/4ths of the way into the workpiece. This is as far as you
need to go with the center drill since its purpose is just to make a
starter hole for the regular drill. Back the center drill out and stop
the lathe.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
83
Drilling the Hole
Loosen the tailstock clamp nut

and slide the tailstock back to
the end of the ways. Remove the
center drill from the chuck and
insert a regular drill and tighten
it down in the chuck. Slide the
tailstock until the tip of the drill
is about 1/4" from the workpiece
and then lock the tailstock in
place. Place a few drops of
cutting fluid on the tip of the
drill, then start the lathe and drill into the workpiece as before, at
400 to 600 RPM.
After advancing the drill about twice its diameter, back it out of the
hole and use a brush to remove the metal chips from the tip of the
drill. Add a few more drops of cutting fluid if necessary, then
continue drilling, backing the drill out to remove chips about every
2 diameters of depth.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
84
Measuring Drilling Depth
Unless you are drilling completely

through a fairly short workpiece you
will generally need a way to measure
the depth of the hole so that you can
stop at the desired depth. One of the
first accessories I made on the lathe is
a simple depth gauge - just a small
cylinder of brass with a locking screw
which slides on a piece of 1/16" drill
rod about 3" long. It's quite handy for
checking the depth of holes. You can
use a shop rule to set the brass slider
to the desired depth and then lock it in place with the little set
screw.
Another way to measure

the depth is to use the
graduated markings on
the barrel of the
tailstock. These are not
easy to see, though.
If you need real accuracy,

Varmint Al came up with a
nifty idea to mount a
1" dial indicator on the
tailstock. The tip of the DI
touches a plastic plate
that is mounted on the
tailstock ram. The DI is
bolted into a 1/4-20 hole
drilled and tapped in the
side of the tailstock. If you
make this mod to your

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
85
lathe, remove the ram from the tailstock before drilling the
mounting hole for the DI to avoid drilling into the ram.
BORING
Boring, also called internal turning, is used to increase the inside diameter of a
hole. The original hole is made with a drill, or it may be a cored hole in a
casting. Boring achieves three things:
Sizing: Boring brings the hole to the proper size and finish. A drill or reamer
can only be used if the desired size is "standard" or if special tools are ground.
The boring tool can work to any diameter and it will give the required finish by
adjusting speed, feed and nose radius. Precision holes can be bored using
microadjustable boring bars.
Straightness: Boring will straighten the original drilled or cast hole. Drills,
especially the longer ones, may wander off-center and cut at a slight angle
because of eccentric forces on the drill, occasional hard spots in the material, or
uneven sharpening of the drill. Cored holes in castings are almost never
completely straight. The boring tool being moved straight along the ways with
the carriage feed will correct these errors.
Concentricity: Boring will make the hole concentric with the outside diameter
within the limits of the accuracy of the chuck or holding device. For best
concentricity, the turning of the outside diameter and the boring of the inside
diameter is done in one set-up-that is, without moving the work between
operations.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
86
Examples of Boring Bars:
The following sequence of photographs introduces the actual boring

processing. The material is aluminum alloy (JIS A2017). The size is
118 mm of outer diameter and 191 mm of length. The hole is 103
mm of inner diameter and 186 mm of depth.
(1) An under hole is made with a drill. (2) The hole is spread with a boring
bar.
(3) The edge must not drill to the (4) Carefully drilling inside
bottom surface.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
87
(5) The diameter becomes enlarged (6) The boring processing is finished.
due to boring.
COUNTERBORING
The operation of boring a second hole, larger in

diameter than
the first hole, but concentric with it. If the
operation is done in a drilling machine, a tool
known as a COUNTERBORE is used.
The small diameter on the end of the tool, known
as the PILOT,
keeps the counterbore concentric with the original hole.
Pilots are interchangeable, so as to fit various sizes of holes
A counter-bored hole has two diameters; a large diameter that is big enough to fit
the screw head and the smaller diameter houses the shaft of the screw.
Benefits of having a counter-bored hole are:
• A smooth, clean surface is sustained when a large fastener is needed
• A counter-bored hole allows for a part to be fit into tight clearances without
needing the extra room of a bolt head
Example of a counterbore drill bit.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
88
Steps to Using a Counterbore
Set-up
1. Select the desired screw size.
Screw.
2. Determine the proper pilot drill bit and counterbore

bit size from Table 1.
Table 1
Counterbores are located in the fifth drawer down in

Cabinet #3. Pilot drill bits are located on-top of Cabinet
#3.
Cabinet #3

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
89
Counterbores are located on the left side of the drawer

next to the center drills.
Fifth drawer Down
4. Inspect drill bit and counterbore for jagged or broken

edge - Seek mentor if broken or jagged.
Damaged Drill Bit
Procedure
5. With proper drill bit selected, drill through hole to

pilot size, oil liberally.
Drilling hole.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
90
6. Mount counterbore in mill, drill press, or lathe and

adjust speed according to Speed Chart. Select head
depth to screw size using Table 1.
Note: These are suggested starting speeds, not

necessarily the correct speeds.
Speed Chart
7. Cut counterbore to head depth indicated in Table 1,

oil adequately.
Counterboring
8. Remove any chips or burrs caused from

counterboring. This can be done with a deburring tool or
a chamfer bit.
Deburring Tool

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
91
9. Insert the screw into the hole to ensure a proper fit.
Insert Screw
Spotfacing
A spotface or spot face is a machined feature in which a certain region of the

workpiece (a spot) is faced, providing a smooth, flat, accurately located surface.
This is especially relevant on workpieces cast or forged, where the spotface's
smooth, flat, accurately located surface stands in distinction to the surrounding
surface whose roughness, flatness, and location are subject to wider tolerances and
thus not assured with a machining level of precision. The most common application
of spotfacing (spot facing) is facing the area around a bolt hole where the bolt's
head will sit, which is often done by cutting a shallow counterbore, just deep
enough "to clean up"—that is, only enough material is removed to get down past
any irregularity and thus make the surface flat.[1] Other common applications of
spotfacing involve facing a pad onto a boss, creating planar surfaces in known
locations that can orient a casting or forging into position in the assembly; allow
part marking such as stamping or nameplate riveting; or offer machine-finish
visual appeal in spots, without the need for finishing all over (FAO).

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
92
TASK SHEET 1.1-5

Title: Performing Bench Work: Drilling, Boring, Counterboring, and
Spotfacing
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures drilling, boring,
counterboring, and spotfacing
Equipment: Twist drill, counterbore, milling machine
1. Select proper drill bit size
2. Drill through hole to pilot size
3. Oil the drill
4. Mount counterbore in mill, drill press, or lathe and adjust speed
accordingly.
5. Cut counterbore to head depth
6. Remove any chips or burrs caused from counterboring using a
deburring tool or a chamfer bit.
7. Insert the screw into the hole to ensure a proper fit.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
93

YES NO
Did you…
1. Selected proper drill bit size?
2. Drilled through hole to pilot size?
3. Oiled the drill?
4. Mount counterbore in mill, drill press, or lathe
and adjust speed accordingly?
5. Cut counterbore to head depth?
6. Remove any chips or burrs caused from
counterboring using a deburring tool or a
chamfer bit?
7. Insert the screw into the hole to ensure a proper
Fit?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
94
LAPPING
Lapping is a bench work operation, in which two surfaces are rubbed
together with an abrasive between them, by hand movement or by way of a
machine.
Lapping is a method of removing very small amounts of material by means of
an abrasive. The abrasive is kept in contact with the sides of a hole to be
lapped, by the use of a lapping tool.
There are several kinds of lapping tool. (Ex. Copper-head lap)
Lapping is a slow, tedious job. Only a few thousands of an inch is removed
by this method.
LAPPING USING ABRASIVE DRILL LAPPING USING WET AND DRY SAND PAPER
Lapping Procedure
1. Ensure that the work area is clean. Have several lint-free wipes open-end and
ready for use.
2. Ensure that you have the appropriate sized laps for the workpiece.
3. Select the type of compound to use for the first lapping sequence.
4. Set the lap on a lint-free wipe to avoid dirt contamination.
5. Apply a small amount of compound onto only the lap surface that will come in
contact with the workpiece. Wipe any excess compound off the lap.
6. Begin lapping by placing the workpiece onto the lap (avoid dropping it or placing
it on the lap at an angle).
7. Remove the workpiece from the lap by pulling it straight up.
8. Clean the workpiece and the entire lap (top, bottom and sides), using an
approved cleaner/degreaser. Let each part evaporate dry. Do not wipe dry.
9. Inspect the surface of the workpiece and determine whether the next lapping
phase is to be done with the same compound

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
95
TASK SHEET 1.1-6

Title: Performing Bench Work: Lapping
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures lapping
Equipment: Lapping tool, lapping compound
1. Ensure that the work area is clean
2. Ensure that you have the appropriate sized laps for the workpiece.
3. Select the type of compound to use for the first lapping sequence.
4. Set the lap on a lint-free wipe to avoid dirt contamination.
5. Apply a small amount of compound onto only the lap surface that will come in
contact with the workpiece.
6. Place the workpiece onto the lap
7. Remove the workpiece from the lap by pulling it straight up.
8. Clean the workpiece and the entire lap using an approved cleaner/degreaser

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
96

YES NO
Did you…
1. Ensured that the work area is clean?
2. Ensured that you have the appropriate sized laps for the
workpiece?
3. Selected the type of compound to use for the first
lapping sequence?
4. Set the lap on a lint-free wipe to avoid dirt
contamination?
5. Applied a small amount of compound onto only the lap
surface that will come in contact with the workpiece?
6. Placed the workpiece onto the lap?
7. Removed the workpiece from the lap by pulling it
straight up?
8. Cleaned the workpiece and the entire lap using an

approved cleaner/degreaser?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
97
REAMING
REAMING
Reaming is the operation of finishing a drilled hole.

When accuracy is required, the hole must be drilled undersize
by a
certain amount and finished by reaming
Straight Fluted Straight Flutes L.H. Spiral R.H. Spiral Helical Flutes
Nose reamer no Flutes R.H. Cut Flutes R.H. Cut
radial relief
Reamers Commonly Used in Drilling Operations
a. Fluted Chucking Reamer

Used to finish holes accurately and smoothly. It is a precision reamer
designed to remove from .005 to .010 inches of material.Each tooth is
ground with a clearance angle at the back of the cutting edge for the full
length of the land. The ends of each tooth are chamfered slightly for end
cutting.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
98
b. Rose Reamer
A reamer designed to cut on the ends of the teeth only. It has no

clearance or cutting edges on the periphery/The flutes provide a
means for chips to escape and for the coolant to reach the end
cutting edges. The diameter near the shank end is slightly
smaller than at the front to provide clearance.
It is considered a roughing reamer. It will remove a considerable

amount of material, but will not produce a smooth, accurate
hole.
c. Shell Reamer
Often called a HOLLOW REAMER, and is actually a reamer

without a shank. A slightly tapered hole through the center
permits the reamer to be held on a separate shank or arbor,
which has driving lugs.
Several sizes of reamers can be used with one shank.
Shell reamers are made with either the fluted teeth having
clearance or the rose-type, which cuts on the ends only.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
99
d. Chucking Expansion Reamer
A slotted reamer, and has an adjusting screw forexpanding the

diameter. When the reamer becomes worn and undersize, it can
be reground to size several times.This reamer machines holes
accurately and smoothly to close tolerances.
e. Taper-pin Chucking Reamer
Used to machine holes that are rather small in diameter but

deep, such as parts to be held by a taper pin.
It has a taper of 1/4 inches per foot.
The short lead of the flutes produce a smooth, accurate hole for
seating a taper pin.

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f. Jobber’s Reamer
A taper-shank machine reamer with flutes about the same length

as that of a hand reamer. Used as a precision finishing reamer.
Using a Hand Reamer

1.
1. Choose your reamer.
Hand reamers work best in soft

materials such as wood or plastic.
Begin by choosing the size reamer
to which you need your hole bored
out. A hand reamer will have a
square shank and depending on
the size of the reamer, you‘ll fit the

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shank into either a tap wrench or crescent wrench to turn it.[1]
 A hand reamer allows for great accuracy after considerable practice.
2. Place the material you need to

bore in a vise or steady it with
clamps.
Since a reamer is a precision tool,

you don‘t want your material
moving around as you ream the
hole.
3. Drill the hole.
Because a reamer is an enlarging

tool and not a cutting tool, you must
drill out the hole with a standard
drill bit before reaming it.[2] You
want to use a drill bit approximately
0.016‖ smaller than your reamer to
ensure that you don‘t oversize the
hole.
 For instance, if you know that you

need to ream your hole to 1/2‖, then you‘d want to drill the hole first with a 31/64‖
drill bit.[3]
 Drilling a hole too small and leaving too much material left for the reamer to clear
can lead to the reamer deflecting off the material, which is called chatter. Chatter
leads to poor finishes and can also damage your reamer.

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4. Apply lubricant to the

material. Based on the material into
which you‘re boring, you may need to
apply cutting fluid to lubricate the
reamer. Though less common with
hand reaming, it‘s not unheard of.
5. Ream the hole. Now that the hole

is prepped, you can use your tap wrench or crescent wrench to ream the hole. You
will likely have either a straight flute reamer or a left-hand spiral flute reamer,
which refers to the direction of the blades that actually enlarge the hole. In the case
of a spiral reamer, you will need to turn counterclockwise.

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TASK SHEET 1.1-7

Title: Performing Bench Work:: Reaming
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures reaming
Equipment: Reamer, hand drill, drill bit, T-wrench
1. Choose the appropriate reamer size
2. Place the material you need to bore in a vise or steady it with clamps.
3. Drill the hole.
4. Apply lubricant to the workpiece
5. Ream the hole

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YES NO
Did you…
1. Chosen the appropriate reamer size?
2. Placed the material you need to bore in a vise or steady
it with clamps?
3. Drilled the hole?
4. Applied lubricant to the workpiece?
5. Reamed the hole?

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THREAD CUTTING/TAPPING
TAPPING
HAND TAPPING
5.1 INTRODUCTION TO TAP WRENCHES AND

TAPS
Tap wrenches are tools used to hold and turn a tap

when cutting internal threads by hand.
Tap wrenches are made from steel and they usually

have:
 Centrally placed jaws for holding one of the

range of different size taps
 Means of adjusting the size of the jaw opening
 Handles to turn the tap.
Hand tapsare made from carbon or High Speed Steel
which is hardened and tempered and they have:
 Accurately cut or ground external threads

 Three or more flutes to form cutting faces on the
external threads and channels for removal of
chips
 Chamfers ground on the leading threads of the
tap to enable easy starting
 The ends of their shanks squared to allow them
to be gripped firmly in the tap wrench
 Markings on the shank to indicate the size and
type of the thread
Threads are tapped in drilled or reamed holes. The size
and condition of the hole must be correct if it is to be
successfully tapped. This will be explained in section
5.4
5.2 TYPES OF TAP WRENCHES
Select the size and type of tap wrench to suit the size of
the tap, the position and accessibility

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of the hole.
Bar-type tap wrenches have a flat centre

section holding jaws shaped to grip the
squared end of the tap. One sliding jaw is
adjusted by a screw operated by rotating one
of the handles about its axis. The ends of the
two handles are knurled.
The smallest capacity bar-type tap wrench

holds taps ranging from 3 mm to 13 mm in
size. There is a range of different capacity
bar-type wrenches.
Select the smallest capacity wrench that will

hold the tap firmly. Check that the handles of
the bar tap wrench can be turned without
striking any obstruction.
Tee-type tap wrenches have a small

adjustable two-jaw chuck on the end of a
stem with a handle.
There are different capacity tee-type tap

wrenches. The largest capacity takes taps up
to 13 mm in size.
Tee-tap wrenches are suitable for work where

restrictions in space would prevent you
turning a bar-type wrench.
Pin chucks are for delicate tapping of small

threads in instruments. Pin chucks have a
very small adjustable two-jaw chuck
mounted on the end of a knurled rod. They
can be used for threads smaller than 2.8 mm

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diameter. The pin chuck is twisted between finger and thumb. This operation
requires a delicate sense of feel. You must learn to use larger taps first.
5.3 TYPES OF TAPS
Taps are normally used in sets of three to allow

progressive cutting of the threads. There are
many types of taps. Three are described to
indicate some of the major features. Ask about
any other type you see being used.
Regular Hand Taps are used for most general

work. Each set consists of a taper, an
intermediate and a bottoming tap. Each tap in
a set has identical length and thread
measurements and only the tapered lead is
different.
 Always use the taper tap to start the

thread. Through holes can be completely
threaded with the taper tap.
 Always use the intermediate tap to follow
in the holes that are not completed by
the taper tap. Use the intermediate tap
in deep through holes and in blind
holes.
 Use the bottoming tap to complete the
thread to the correct depth in a blind
hole.
Serial Hand Taps are used where the material
is tough, where a close tolerance hole is
required and where a high grade finish is
required. Each set consists of 1st Rougher, 2nd
Rougher and Finisher taps. They have a similar
appearance to regular taps. However they differ
in the size of pitch diameter and major
diameter. Each ta takes a progressively deeper
cut.

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Pipe Taps are used to produce two main

styles of thread:
 Parallel (Straight) thread for low

pressure pipe coupling and fittings.
 Taper(Conical) threads for pipe fittings
where a tight fit is required.
5.4 HOLES FOR TAPPING- SIZE AND

CONDITION
Holes of the correct size and condition are

essential for successful tapping. Note these
acts about threads.
 The major diameter of a thread is

measured from crest to crest.
 The minor diameter of a thread is
measured from root to root.
 Theoretically a tap would produce a
100% thread in an accurate hole of the
same diameter as the minor diameter
of its thread.
 The tap would produce no thread in a
hole of the same diameter as its major
diameter. And it would produce 50%
thread in a hole with a diameter
midway between its major and minor
diameters.
 A standard nut with only 60% thread
engagement is strong enough to be
screwed up until the bolt breaks
without stripping the thread.
 The torque required to turn a tap to
cut a 72% thread is double that
required to cut a 60% thread. The
required torque to cut a larger
percentage of thread is very much
greater.

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The importance of drilling tapping holes
correctly is illustrated at the right.
You must learn the method of finding the

tapping sizes used for taps in your workshop.
Calculations based on a different standard
formula for each thread may be used.
Engineering handbooks and manufacturers
have Tables of Tapping Drill
Recommendations.
Use these whenever possible. If you are

uncertain, try the largest drill that is
applicable and suitable in a piece of scrap
metal to test on the thread produced.
5.5 HOW TO TAP THROUGH A HOLE
Start learning how to tap in holes of about 10

mm diameter in mild steel about 10 mm
thick. This will allow you to get the ‗feel‘ of
tapping before using smaller taps and other
more difficult tapping jobs. Follow this
procedure:
1. Check the size of thread required.

Select the correct taps and check that
they are sharp and in good condition.
2. Determine the correct size of tapping
drill. Select a correctly sharpened drill
of this size and drill the tapping hole
carefully.
3. Hold the work firmly in the bench vice
with the hole axis vertical. Use soft
jaws to protect finished surfaces.
4. Fit the taper tap firmly in a matching
size bar-type tap wrench.

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5. Hold the tap wrench until both hands
close to the centre. Place the end of the
tap in the hole. Sight up that the tap is
vertical to the surface of the work.
6. Apply steady downward pressure and
begin turning the handles clockwise in
a horizontal plane.
7. Complete two turns while keeping the
wrench handles level and applying even
downward pressure.
8. Release and remove the tap wrench
without disturbing the tap.
9. Place a small try square on the work to
check that the tap is vertical to the
work surface. Test again in a second
position about 90° from the first. The
square end of a steel rule may be used
for this check. If the tap is not square to the

surface, note the correction required.
1. Replace and tighten the tap wrench on

the tap without disturbing it.
2. Hold the wrench as before and begin
turning. To correct a tap that is out of
square, apply sight side pressure in the
direction required as the wrench is
turned. Never apply side pressure to a
stationary tap.
3. Complete two turns and check as
before that the tap is square. The tap
must be made square within the first
few turns. Out of square-ness cannot
be corrected after this.
4. If the taps is square with the work,
apply a suitable cutting fluid.
5. Hold the tap wrench at the end of the
handles with the fingers to allow
sensitive ‗feel‘ of the torque applied to
the tap.

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6. Turn the wrench with constant

pressure applied evenly with both
hands. No downward pressure is
required once the tap begins to feed
itself into the hole.
 Use a closed hand grip on the
handles when larger taps are
used.
 As you turn the wrench try to feel the
degree of resistance being offered to
the tap. If you feel it is increasing,
ease the wrench back in the reverse
direction.
NOTE:
Tap manufacturers recommend that taps
should not be reversed except when the holes
become clogged or when the thread is
completed.
 If the holes are clogged, reverse the

tap carefully and remove it from the
hole. Use a brush to remove the chips
from the tap and the hole. Apply more
lubricant and continue the tapping
operation.
 While you are developing the ability to

judge the ‗feel‘ of tapping, adopt the
following routine:
 Frequently ease the wrench back in the reverse direction for about a
quarter of a turn if you feel resistance increasing.
 Complete another turn or so.

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 When the tap seems to bind, ease it with very short backwards and forward
movements rather than a continuous movement.
 Aim at learning to produce smooth well-formed threads with the
minimum number of reversals of the tapping direction.
 To complete the through hole, continue turning the tap until at least half the
tap extends below the lower surface of the material.
 Remove the tap, brush or wipe it clean and replace it in its correct storage
place.
 Brush the chips from the work and check the fit of the thread with a
matching screw.

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TASK SHEET 1.1-8

Title: Performing Bench Work: Tapping
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures tapping
Equipment: Tap, Hand drill, drill bit, T-Tap wrench
1. Select the correct taps
2. Determine the correct size of tapping drill
3. Hold the work firmly in the bench vice with the hole axis vertical
4. Fit the taper tap firmly in a matching size bar-type tap wrench.
5. Hold the tap wrench until both hands close to the centre.
6. Apply steady downward pressure and begin turning the handles clockwise in
a horizontal plane.
7. Complete two turns while keeping the wrench handles level.
8. Release and remove the tap wrench without disturbing the tap.
9. Place a small try square on the work to check that the tap is vertical to the
workpiece surface.
10. Hold the wrench as before and begin turning.
11. Complete two turns and check as before that the tap is square.
12. Hold the tap wrench at the end of the handles with the fingers to allow
sensitive ‗feel‘ of the torque applied to the tap.
13. Turn the wrench with constant pressure applied evenly with both hands.

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YES NO
Did you…
1. Selected the correct taps?
2. Determined the correct size of tapping drill?
3. Held the work firmly in the bench vice with the hole
axis vertical?
4. Fitted the taper tap firmly in a matching size bar-

type tap wrench?
5. Held the tap wrench until both hands close to the

centre?
6. Applied steady downward pressure and begin

turning the handles clockwise in a horizontal plane?
7. Completed two turns while keeping the wrench

handles level?
8. Released and remove the tap wrench without

disturbing the tap?
9. Placed a small try square on the work to check that

the tap is vertical to the workpiece surface?
10. Held the wrench as before and begin turning?
11. Completed two turns and check as before that the

tap is square?
12. Held the tap wrench at the end of the handles with
the fingers to allow sensitive ‗feel‘ of the torque
applied to the tap?
13. Turned the wrench with constant pressure applied
evenly with both hands?

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OFFHAND GRINDING
SHARPENING DRILL BITS
Most drill troubles arise from inaccurate pointing. Correct drill pointing will
to a great extent eliminate drill breakage and inaccurate holes. Drill pointing
should be varied depending upon the materials to be drilled, but for general use,
drills leave the factory sharpened to a 59° point angle (118° included angle), 9° -
15° clearance angle and with a chisel edge angle of 120° to 135°.
CUTTING LIPS
The cutting lips must be of equal length. Even though the point angle is equal on
both sides, if the cutting lips are not equal in length the chisel edge will not be
centered, and the drill will cut oversize. A scale should be used to check the lengths
of the cutting lips.
CORRECT
Correctly ground lips have the same angle to the

axis of the drill and are of equal length. An
accurate hole will be produced with this point.
WRONG
Unequal lip lengths produce oversize holes.

Unequal lip angles place most of the cutting on one
lip and point dulls faster.

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LIP CLEARANCE
Sufficient clearance behind the cutting lips must be provided so that the cutting
edges can enter the work. Usually 9° to 15° lip clearance is sufficient for average
work if the point is ground with the proper angle and the proper clearance, but
without the proper contour back of the cutting edges, the cutting lip will be
weakened.
CORRECT
A point with proper lip clearance permits the drill to

cut freely. The cutting lip is sufficiently supported to
prevent excessive dulling or chipping.
WRONG
Too much clearance (over 15°) will cause cutting lips
to break down. Insufficient clearance (under 9°)
requires excess feed pressure, causes drill to split
up the web.
PROCEDURES
1. The first step in sharpening a drill bit is to grind
the point angle.

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2. Stand slightly to the left of the grinding

wheel, feet apart. Hold the drill about a
quarter of the way along from the point,
using the thumb and forefinger. Rest these
fingers on the grinder‘s tool rest. Use the
other hand to hold the drill at its shank.
3. Hold the drill so that it is horizontal but

approaches the grinding wheel at an angle of
about 60 degrees. Rotate the drill so that its
cutting edge is parallel and close to the wheel.
The drill can then be moved forward and the
point ground.
4. The next step is to grind the lip clearance.
5. Use the left hand to swing the shank of the drill

downwards and to the left. These movements
are only slight. Remember to keep the right
hand supported by the tool rest. As you move
your left hand, use your right hand fingers to
roll the drill clockwise about a quarter-turn and
simultaneously feed the drill forward against
the grinding wheel.

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6. The sequence of motions is: left hand down and

leftwards, right hand fingers rotate drill clockwise, both
hands move drill forwards. Watch the cutting edge (red
arrow) and you‘ll see that as you do this, it moves
forward and away from the grinding wheel. However, if
you rotate the drill too far, or the left hand is not moved
towards the left, the opposite side cutting lip (near to
the point) will come into contact with the grinding stone
– not what is wanted!
7. Check the lip angles by using drill point angle gauge, Cutting lips must have
equal measurement with each side.

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COMMON PROBLEMS ON INCORRECT GRINDED TWIST DRILLS
Problem Cause Fix
Drill point appears to Off-centre point angle – Re-

wobble, drill press unequal cutting lip length grind
shakes or angles
Internal shoulder at
base of blind hole
Oversize or rough hole
Slow penetration Cutting edges dull Re-

grind
Squeaking or squealing Lip clearance insufficient
behind one lip
Drill grabs Point angle too sharp Re-grind
Lip clearance too great
CAUTION: When high speed steel drills are sharpened by dry grinding, care should
be exercised to prevent overheating. If the drill does get too hot, do not cool in
water, but let it cool by itself in air. Sudden cooling of high speed steel drills in
water or other cooling mediums will usually produce grinding checks, which may
result in chipping of the cutting lips or breaking of the drill point.

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GRINDING LATHE RIGHT HAND TOOLS
The cutting tool is one of the most important

things to consider in the machining of metal in the
lathe. In order to machine metal accurately and
efficiently it is important that the cutter bit have a
keen cutting edge, ground with the correct clearance.
Rake, etc., for the particular kind of metal being
machined, and the cutter bit set at the correct height.
The image shows a tool blank. There are 5 faces

to consider at the cutting end, but only 3 of
them require grinding. The back (4) surface and
bottom (5) surface can be left untouched.
The remaining three faces require grinding along

two axis each, however they can still be created
within three grinding operations.
On most tools there is also a fourth grinding

operation which is a radius on the tool tip. This
radius increases tool life and improves surface
finish.
The numbered faces in this image also indicate the order in which the three faces
are cut.
Tool Geometry.
The end and

side faces

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both have a clearance/relief angle and another edge cutting angle. The relief angles
are needed to stop the tool rubbing. A tool with a greater relief angle usually has a
lower rate of wear, but because there is less material to support the cutting edge
the tool can break more easily, it also cannot conduct heat away so efficiently.
The top face has two rake angles because it can cut both 'into' and 'along'
the work piece. These angles are identified as a 'side rake' angle and a 'back rake'
angle. The rake angle sets the angle of shear for the cut. A greater rake angle
reduces cutting forces and gives a better tool life, but too much rake can make the
tool fragile.
* All angles in degrees.
PROCEDURES IN HIGH SPEED TOOL BIT GRINDING
1. Grind the Side Cutting Edge of the tool; Feed the bit across the edge of the
grinding wheel with a light inward pressure to make the cut.

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2. Grind the End Cutting Edge as shown.
3. Create the Nose radius of the tool by freehand operation on the bench
grinder, or by hand on a grinding slip, if only a very small radius is needed.
4. Grind the Side and Back rake angle, Both these angles are important to
make an effective tool

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60 DEGREES V-THREADING TOOL OFF-HAND GRINDING

Cutting V-threads with a 60 degrees thread angle is the most common
thread cutting operation done on a lathe. V-threads with the 60 degree angle are
used for metric thread cutting and for American (National) threads and Unified
threads. To properly cut V-shaped threads.the single point include the root of
the thread.
V-shaped thread cutter.
Relief angles on a thread cutting tool bit.

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TASK SHEET 1.1-9

Title: Performing Bench Work: Offhand Grinding
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedures offhand grinding
Equipment: Portable grinder, drill bit, drill point angle gauge
1. Put in mind the sequence: left hand down and leftwards, right hand fingers
rotate drill clockwise, both hands move drill forwards.
2. Use the left hand to swing the shank of the drill downwards and to the left.
3. Grind the lip clearance.
4. Hold the drill so that it is horizontal but approaches the grinding wheel at an
angle of about 60 degrees.
5. Rotatethe drill so that its cutting edge is parallel and close to the wheel.
6. Grind the point angle.
7. Stand slightly to the left of the grinding wheel, feet apart.
8. Hold the drill about a quarter of the way along from the point, using the
thumb and forefinger.
9. Check the lip angles by using drill point angle gauge.

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YES NO
Did you…
1. Put in mind the sequence: left hand down and
leftwards, right hand fingers rotate d drill clockwise,
both hands move drill forwards?
2. Used the left hand to swing the shank of the drill
downwards and to the left?
3. Grinded the lip clearance?
4. Held the drill so that it is horizontal but approaches

the grinding wheel at an angle of about 60 degrees?
5. Rotated the drill so that its cutting edge is parallel
and close to the wheel?
6. Grinded the point angle?
7. Stood slightly to the left of the grinding wheel, feet

apart?
8. Held the drill about a quarter of the way along from
the point, using the thumb and forefinger?
9. Checked the lip angles by using drill point angle
gauge?

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TYPES OF SCRAPPERS
Three different engineering hand scrappers
Appearance of a slide way frosted for improved oil retention
An example of a finely scraped 6x1 inch standard
Close up of the surface showing the crossed scrape marks

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End view showing the smoothness of the surface. For surfaces intended to be load
bearing, "frosting" could then be applied on top of a surface like this if desired
Hand scraper
Is a single-edged tool used to scrape metal from a surface. This may be

required where a surface needs to be trued, corrected for fit to a mating part, needs
to retain oil (usually on a freshly ground surface), or to give a decorative finish.
Surface plates
Surface plates were traditionally made by scraping. Three raw (plates that
have been `seasoned ‗or residual stress relieved and received suitable surface
treatments, but unfinished) cast surface plates, a flat scraper (as pictured at the
top of the image) and a quantity of bearing (or Red Lead) were all that was required
in the way of tools.
The scraper in the center of the image is a three corner scraper and is typically
used to deburr holes or the internal surface of bush type bearings. Bushes are
typically made from bronze or a white metal.
The scraper pictured at the bottom is a curved scraper. It has a slight curve in its
profile and is also suitable for bush bearings, typically the longer ones.
One advantage of scraping is the ability to take the tool to the work piece, this can
be useful when the work piece weighs several tons and is difficult to move.
The person that scrapes is called a "hand". It is done by using a precision surface
such as a surface plate or a straight edge as a standard (a straight edge in this
context is not a ruler; it is a miniature surface plate of extreme accuracy). The
standard is coated with a very thin coating of a material such as Prussian blue. The
work piece and standard are touched together by gravity alone and the high spots
on the work piece will be colored by the dye on the standard. These high spots are
scraped off and the process repeated until there is an even spread of high spots
which total about 60% or more of the surface area. Coarse scraping gives a
resulting surface with 5-10 points per square inch while fine scraping yields 24-36
points per square inch. If desired the surface can then be ―Frosted‖. A surface
prepared in this way is superior in overall accuracy to any prepared by machining
or grinding operations, although lapping can equal or exceed it over small
distances.[ Grinding and machining stresses the metal thermally and mechanically,
scraping and lapping do not.[
Scraping
Is the only method for producing an original set of flat surfaces from which one can
transfer that accuracy through to other surfaces by means of grinding,
Lapping and grinding do not achieve the long distance flatness scraping can, as
they act on the entire surface rather than local high or low spots.[

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With precision ground surfaces, any oil film applied to the surface will lack the
means to adhere to the surface, especially between two mating parts of exceptional
finish. The oil film will be swept away leaving nothing but bare metal and the risk
of seizure. Carefully scraping the surface will leave the original high quality surface
intact, but provide many shallow depressions where the oil film can maintain its
depth and surface tension. When scraping is used for this purpose it is more
accurately called "frosting", "spotting" or "flaking" as opposed to fully scraping an
accurate surface. Typically a scraped surface is scraped to highly accurate flatness
and then "frosting" is applied over it for oil retention. It is claimed to stop the so-
called "stick-slip" phenomenon where a machine member might move in a jerky
fashion rather than moving smoothly, allowing vibration and chatter. Such frosting
will definitely increase oil retention but will also drastically reduce bearing area and
capacity. There is no possibility of achieving hydrodynamic bearing performance on
normal sliding machine ways. The velocity is far too low. Most of the time the ways
will run under boundary lubrication conditions while at the highest speeds it might
achieve mixed lubrication. This makes oil additives important in ways lubrication.
Hand scraping leaves a distinctive pattern on the surface that is scraped. This can
be suggestive of a high level of precision in the ways, however, sometimes a surface
can be marked to appear hand scraped, but it is really just a superficial surface
treatment designed to give the impression of a scraped machine way.
Hand scraping can also be done by a power tool that has a reciprocating blade and
is usually adjustable for stroke length and number of strokes per minute.
Honing (metalworking)
The surface of a honed work piece.
Honing
Is an abrasive machining process that produces a precision surface on

a metal work piece by scrubbing an abrasive stone against it along a controlled
path. Honing is primarily used to improve the geometric form of a surface, but may
also improve the surface texture.
Typical applications are the finishing of cylinders for internal combustion

engines, air bearing spindles and gears. There are many types of hones but all

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consist of one or more abrasive stones that are held under pressure against the
surface they are working on.
In terms of sharpening knives, a honing steel does not actually hone knives, but
simply realigns the metal along the edge.
Other similar processes are lapping and super finishing.
Process mechanics
Since honing stones look similar to grinding wheels, it is tempting to think of

honing as a form of low-stock removal grinding. Instead, it is better to think of it as
a self-truing grinding process.
In grinding, the wheel follows a simple path. For example, in plunge grinding a
shaft, the wheel moves in towards the axis of the part, grinds it, and then moves
back out. Since each slice of the wheel repeatedly contacts the same slice of the
work piece, any inaccuracies in the geometric shape of the grinding wheel will be
transferred onto the part. Therefore, the accuracy of the finished work piece
geometry is limited to the accuracy of the truing dresser. The accuracy becomes
even worse as the grind wheel wears, so truing must occur periodically to reshape
it.
The limitation on geometric accuracy is overcome in honing because the honing

stone follows a complex path. In bore honing for example, the stone moves along
two paths simultaneously. The stones are pressed radially outward to enlarge the
hole while they simultaneously oscillate axially. Due to the oscillation, each slice of
the honing stones touches a large area of the work piece. Therefore, imperfections
in the honing stone's profile cannot transfer to the bore. Instead both the bore and
the honing stones conform to the average shape of the honing stones' motion,
which in the case of bore honing is a cylinder. This averaging effect occurs in all
honing processes; both the work piece and stones erode until they conform to the
average shape of the stones' cutting surface. Since the honing stones tend to erode
towards a desired geometric shape, there is no need to true them. As a result of the
averaging effect, the accuracy of a honed component often exceeds the accuracy of
the machine tool that created it.
The path of the stone is not the only difference between grinding and honing
machines; they also differ in the stiffness of their construction. Honing machines
are much more compliant than grinders. The purpose of grinding is to achieve a
tight size tolerance. To do this, the grinding wheel must be moved to an exact
position relative to the work piece. Therefore, a grinding machine must be very stiff
and its axes must move with very high precision.
A honing machine, ironically, is relatively accurate and perfect. Instead of relying

on the accuracy of the machine tool, it relies on the averaging effect between the
stone and the work piece. In fact, compliance is a requirement of a honing machine

Date Revised:
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131
that is necessary for the averaging effect to occur. This leads to an obvious
difference between the two machines: in a grinder the stone is rigidly attached to a
slide, while in honing the stone is actuated with pneumatic or hydraulic pressure.
High-precision work pieces are usually ground and then honed. Grinding
determines the size, and honing improves the shape.
The difference between honing and grinding is always same. Some grinders have
complex movements and are self-truing, and some honing machines are equipped
with in-process gaging for size control. Many through-feed grinding operations rely
on the same averaging effect as honing.
Honing configurations
A flat honing machine.
 Track/Raceway honing
 Spherical honing
 OD through-feed honing (taper and straight)
 Flat honing
 Bore honing
Economics
Since honing is a high precision process, it is also relatively expensive. Therefore, it

is only used in components that demand the highest level of precision. It is
typically the last manufacturing operation before the part is shipped to a customer.
The dimensional size of the object is established by preceding operations, the last of
which is usually grinding. Then the part is honed to improve a form characteristic
such as roundness, flatness, cylindricity, or sphericity.
Performance advantages of honed surfaces
Since honing is a relatively expensive manufacturing process, it can only be

economically justified for applications that require very good form accuracy. The

Date Revised:
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132
improved shape after honing may result in a quieter running or higher precision
component.
The flexible honing tool is a relatively inexpensive honing process. This tools
produces a controlled surface condition unobtainable by any other method. It
involves finish, geometry and metallurgical structure. A high percentage plateau
free of cut, torn and folded metal is produced. The flexible hone is a resilient,
flexible honing tool with a soft cutting action. The abrasive globules each have
independent suspension that assures the tool to be self-centering, self-aligning to
the bore, and self-compensating for wear.
Cross-hatch finish
A "cross-hatch" pattern is used to retain oil or grease to ensure proper lubrication

and ring seal of pistons in cylinders. A smooth glazed cylinder wall can cause
piston ring and cylinder scuffing. The "cross-hatch" pattern is used on brake rotors,
and flywheels.
Plateau Finish
The plateau finish is one characterized by the removal of "peaks" in the metal while
leaving the cross hatch intact for oil retention. The plateaued finish increases the
bearing area of the finish, and does not require the piston or ring to "break in" the
cylinder walls. Plateau Honing Specification 1.Rz ....3-6 Micron; 2.Rpk....<=0.3
Micron; 3. Rk.....0.3-1.5 Micron; 4.Rvk....0.8-2.00 Micron.

Date Revised:
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133
Self-check 1.2
Multiple Choice: Select the best answer among the choices.
1. What is an abrasive machining process that produces a precision surface on

a metal work piece by scrubbing an abrasive stone against it along a controlled
path?
A. Scraping C. Economics
B. Honing D. Finishing
2. What is the only method for producing an original set of flat surfaces from which
one can transfer that accuracy through to other surfaces by means of grinding?
A. Scraping C. Economics
B. Honing D. Finishing
3. What is a single-edged tool used to scrape metal from a surface?

A. Hand scraper C. Boring bar
B. Surface plates D. Reamer
4. What do you call a person who scrapes?

A. Scraper C. 5S
B. Cleaner D. Hand
5. What application is recommended for surfaces intended to be load bearing?

A. Chilling C. Refrigerating
B. Frosting D. Cooling
6. How costly is honing?

A. Relatively Cheap C. Moderately Expensive
B. Economically Cheap D. Relatively Expensive
7. The following are characteristics that honing improves EXCEPT:

A. Depth C. Cylindricity
B. Roundness D. Flatness

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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134
Answer to Self-check 1.2
1. B
2. A
3. A
4. D
5. B
6. D
7. A

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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135

Extractors
Learning Objectives:
Use a screw extractor. The right tool

for the job, assuming the screw head is
worn but intact, is called ―screw
extractor‖. This is essentially a
screwdriver or screwdriver bit which
has strong rough metal threads right
on the tip. These are intended to
burrow into the metal of the screw
head and get stuck there so you can
put some torque on it.
Procedures using a screw extractor

 Use a screw extractor like a normal screwdriver to remove the
screw. Be sure to go slowly, and press down hard enough to
prevent slippage and engage the burrowing threads.
 If the screw extractor can‘t get a grip, you may need to drill a
small hole into the screw head. You will need a drill bit that is
designed for drilling metal: a wood drilling bit won‘t survive. Be
careful if you drill too far, you will destroy the head entirely or
drilling, pieces of metal may suddenly goes flying out of the
assembly, so wear eye protection!
 Also try using a small piece of steel wool or a piece of the green
abrasive on kitchen cleaning sponges-press a small piece into
screw head, insert screwdriver and turn.
 The abrasive material will bite into the screw head, and give
better grip for the screwdriver.
 There is also multi-spline type of screw extractor. The multi-
spline extractor is like a hex nut with splines instead of threads
on the inner bore. The multi-spline extractor fits over the head
of the screw and over any projecting stud. The internal splines
(teeth) engage the rounded head of the screw. Tap the extractor
gently into place and turn it with a socket wrench. The multi-
spline extractor is good for Allen head screws if the cylindrical
body of the Allen screw is exposed. The multi-spline extractor is
typically described as ―Bolt Extractor 5-Piece set‖.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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136
A screw extractor is a tool for removing broken or seized screws. There are
two types: one has a spiral flute structure, commonly called an easy out after the
trademarked name EZ-Out; the other has a straight flute structure. They are made
of hard, brittle steel, so they can break off inside the screw if too much torque is
applied, making the removal much more difficult.
Spiral fluted extractor
A spiral screw extractor is itself a coarse-pitched tapered screw thread. They are
generally left-handed, for use on right-handed threads, though there are right-
handed extractors for removing left-handed screws.
The screw is first drilled out to the proper diameter for that extractor. The extractor
is then inserted into this hole and turned counter-clockwise using a tap wrench. As
the extractor is turned, the flutes on the tool dig into the screw, causing it to lock
tightly and apply sufficient torque to remove the screw.
A drawback to tapered screw extractors is that their wedge action tends to expand
the drilled, and thus weakened, screw. This wedging action can lock the screw even
more tightly in place, making it difficult or impossible to extract.
Straight fluted extractor
Straight fluted extractors may come in a kit that also has associated drills,
drill bushings, and special nuts, or be sold individually. The screw is drilled out
with the appropriate drill and drill bushing. The extractor is then hammered into
the hole with a brass hammer, because a steel hammer will cause the extractor to
break. The appropriate special nut is then attached to the end of the extractor. The
nuts can then be turned with a wrench to remove the screw.
Straight fluted extractors have less wedging effect than tapered screw
extractors, so have less tendency to lock the screws into place. A further form is a
parallel fluted extractor, with no taper at all and thus no wedging. These work well,
but have the drawback of requiring the pilot hole to be drilled to a precise size. This
size is often non-standard for most drill sets, requiring a dedicated drill bit to be
supplied with the kit.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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137
TASK SHEET 1.3

Title: Performing Bench Work: Extractors
Performance Objective: Able to perform the extractors
Equipment: Screw Extractor, hand drill, screwdriver, drill bit
1. Use a screw extractor like a normal screwdriver to remove the screw.
2. Drill a small hole into the screw head.
3. Apply a small piece of steel wool or a piece of the green abrasive
4. Insert the extractor
5. Apply twisting torque to remove the screw
6. Remove the exposed screw through pulling by hand or by hand tools

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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138
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.4

YES NO
Did you…
1. Used a screw extractor like a normal
screwdriver to remove the screw?
2. Drilled a small hole into the screw head?
3. Applied a small piece of steel wool or a piece of
the green abrasive?
4. Inserted the extractor?
5. Applied twisting torque to remove the screw?
6.Removed the exposed screw through pulling by
hand or by hand tools?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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139

Procedure in Removing Damaged Bolt
1. Avoid making the problem worse.

If the tool you are using is slipping,
stop using it immediately. Further
slippage will only continue to wear
down the screw head and make it
harder to remove. Definitely be sure
you are going in the correct direction
for removal, which is usually--but not
always--counterclockwise ("lefty
loosey, righty tighty"). Pressing down
hard as you are unscrewing will help
prevent slippage.
2. Use a manual screwdriver rather

than a power drill.
You will be able to put more pressure
on the back of the screwdriver (to
increase friction) and to go more
slowly. Not all drills are strong enough
to exert as much torque as you need to
remove a recalcitrant screw. Some
chuck less drills will actually lose their
grip on the screwdriver bit if you put
too much torque on them. (Especially
in the reverse direction).
3. Get more torque with a socket

wrench.
If you need a lot of torque because you
are hurting your hand or you are not
getting results. The best tool is a socket
wrench. A common part of many
professional screwdriver sets. This

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon
140
allows you to get 6 inches or more of lever arm rather than the half-
inch or so a screwdriver handle produces. This greatly increases the
amount of torque you can put on the screw for a given amount of
hand pressure.
4. Use a screw extractor.

The right tool for the job, assuming the
screw head is worn but intact, is called
―screw extractor‖. This is essentially a
screwdriver or screwdriver bit which
has strong rough metal threads right
on the tip. These are intended to
burrow into the metal of the screw
head and get stuck there so you can
put some torque on it.
Procedures using a screw extractor

 Use a screw extractor like a normal screwdriver to remove the
screw. Be sure to go slowly, and press down hard enough to
prevent slippage and engage the burrowing threads.
 If the screw extractor can‘t get a grip, you may need to drill a
small hole into the screw head. You will need a drill bit that is
designed for drilling metal: a wood drilling bit won‘t survive. Be
careful if you drill too far, you will destroy the head entirely or
drilling, pieces of metal may suddenly goes flying out of the
assembly, so wear eye protection!
 Also try using a small piece of steel wool or a piece of the green
abrasive on kitchen cleaning sponges-press a small piece into
screw head, insert screwdriver and turn.
 The abrasive material will bite into the screw head, and give
better grip for the screwdriver.
 There is also multi-spline type of screw extractor. The multi-
spline extractor is like a hex nut with splines instead of threads
on the inner bore. The multi-spline extractor fits over the head
of the screw and over any projecting stud. The internal splines
(teeth) engage the rounded head of the screw. Tap the extractor
gently into place and turn it with a socket wrench. The multi-
spline extractor is good for Allen head screws if the cylindrical
body of the Allen screw is exposed. The multi-spline extractor is
typically described as ―Bolt Extractor 5-Piece set‖.

Date Revised:
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141
5. Try a different screwdriver.
If you don‘t have a screw
extractor and don‘t want to try to
get one just yet, you can try to
use a different screwdriver or
screwdriver bit. A screwdriver
with a bigger head may help.
Some screw heads can accept
either a slot or a cross-head (eg.
Phillips) screwdriver. You may
have some luck trying the other
kind. If you have them in your
screwdriver set. You might also try a Robertson (square), Allen
(hexagonal), or Torx (Six-pointed star) bit, depending on the shape of
the hole you have. You may have some luck if you experiment with
sizes.
6. Tapping the screwdriver into

place with a hammer.
Tap it with a hammer, but be
careful and gentle as excessive
force will destroy or remove the
head of the screw.
7. Drill out the entire screw as

a last resort, and only if the
screw is holding together
metal objects.
If all fails, it is possible to drill
out the existing screw with a
power drill and bit of the same
size as the screw‘s shaft. This
will most likely remove the
existing thread. Possible
solutions at this point.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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142
 Replace old screw with a self-tapping (thread-forming) screw of
slightly larger size
 Use a nut a bolt instead. If desired, weld the nut to one of the
metal objects to create a stationary, threaded mount.
8. Use a broad, flat rubber band

between the screw and the
screwdriver will yield good
results if firm pressure and slow
rotation is used.
The rubber band acts to fill in the
space that the screwdriver cannot
grip.

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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143
TASK SHEET 1.4

Title: Performing Bench Work: Procedure in Removing Damage Bolt
Performance Objective: Able to perform the procedure in removing damage
bolt
Equipment: Screw Extractor, hand drill, screwdriver, drill bit
1. Use a manual screwdriver
2. Apply torque by putting pressure on the screwdriver
3. Choose the correct screw extractor
4. Drill a small hole into the screw head
5. Tap the screwdriver into place using a hammer
6. Drill out the entire screw

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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144
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.4

YES NO
Did you…
1. Used a manual screwdriver?
2. Applied torque by putting pressure on the
screwdriver?
3. Chose the correct screw extractor?
4. Drilled a small hole into the screw head?
5. Tapped the screwdriver into place using a
hammer?
6. Drilled out the entire screw?

Date Revised:
Developed By:
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145
REFERENCES:
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Operation/Drilling/drilling.htm
http://www.smithy.com/machining-handbook/chapter-1/page/3
http://www.smithy.com/machining-handbook/chapter-6/page/4
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/toolgrinding/toolgrinding.htm
http://www.michigandrill.com/tech/twist_drills/point_grinding.php
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor

Date Revised:
Developed By:
Raymundo M. Lapon

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COMPETENCY- BASED

Sector:METALS AND ENGINEERING

Qualification Title: MACHINING NC II

Unit of Competency: Perform Bench Work (Complex)

Unit of Competency: Performing Bench Work

1. When you study for a test, would you rather

A. Read notes, read headings in a book, and look at diagrams and

2. Which of these do you do when you listen to music?

A. daydream (see things that go with the music)

3. When you work at solving a problem do you

4. When you read for fun, do you prefer?

A. A travel book with a lot of pictures in it?

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

A. Watch a movie about it?

A. Look around and find a map showing the locations of the

7. What kind of restaurant would you rather not go to?

A. One with the lights too bright

8. Would you rather go to?

9. Which are you most likely to do when you are happy?

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

A. the faces of the people there, but not the names

A. think of a picture of a particular dog

12. When you tell a story, would you rather

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

A. write it out to see if it looks right

A. look at posters advertising other movies

TO DETERMINE YOUR LEARNING STYLE:

II. Kinesthetic Learner

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Performance Criteria Checklist

Self Check Answer Key

Learning Outcome Summary

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

HOW TO USE COMPETENCY- BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the modules for Machining NC II. This learning

Recognition of prior Learning (RPL)

You may already have some or most of the knowledge and

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent

At the end of all the modules is a Learners Diary. Use this

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

workplace events that will assist you in providing further details

The modules were prepared to help you achieve the required

. Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both

. As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Turn work piece (Basic) Turning work MEE722302

Mill work piece (Basic) Milling work MEE722303

Grind work Piece (Basic) Grinding work MEE722304

Grind work piece (Complex) Grinding work MEE722308

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

SECTOR: METALS AND ENGINEERING

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PERFORM BENCH WORK (COMPLEX)

MODULE TITLE: PERFORMING BENCH WORK

NOMINAL DURATION: 56 hrs.

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

CONDITIONS: The students/trainees must be provided with the following:

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

2.Answer self-check 1.1 Compare the answers to the answer

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.

Date Developed: Document No. NTTA-TM1-01.