1.

Introduction
Morarjee Textiles Limited (MTL) is a manufacturer of textile products. The Company is
engaged in the business of manufacture of cotton fabric and fashion printed fabric. The
Company has two products: shirting and prints. Shirting division is specializes in color
woven shirting with fine yarn counts up to 180/2. Prints division includes fashion and voiles.
Satin, cambric, poplin, lawn and silk are printed fabrics manufactured by prints division. The
company was incorporated in the year 1995.The Company is a supplier of Guthra in the
Middle East and African Subcontinent. The Company offers cotton shirting fabrics to Indian
and International brands. MTL also has a 49% interest in Just Textiles Ltd., which is engaged
in the business of processing various textile fabrics with machinery installed at its factory in
Ambernath, Mumbai. The Company has a merger with Integra Apparels and Textiles Limited
(Integra), which specializes in woven tops, casual shirts and garments for women.

Morarjee is part of the Ashok Piramal Group, a diversified and leading business group in
India.

1.1 History
The Morarjee Gokaldas Spinning & Weaving Co. Ltd. is the oldest textile company in India,
established as early as 1871. It is among the first five companies to be listed on the Indian stock
exchanges. In 1935, the mill was acquired by Piramal Chaturbhuj, heralding a new era of growth
and prosperity. Since inception, quality and service were the hallmark of the company. Riding on
these factors, the company the company had survived its up and down in the textile sector .In the
early 90’s the biggest challenge came from World War I. Not only did the mill survive, it came
out much stronger. In 1940, the mill joined the Swadeshi movement and set up a Khaki
department. It won special acclaim from Mahatma Gandhi for this. In 1942 – the Viceroy
awarded a gold medal to the company for the khaki drill.
The 1950’s was the period of unparalleled growth and expansion. The dye house was
modernized with the installation of a continuous open width boiling & bleaching plant, a modern
impregnating unit & a steaming J. Box. This was to improve the fastness of mineral khaki for
which Morarjee Mills have been known for. Next on the cards was acquisition. Morarjee took
over the Sayaji Mills located in Mumbai in 1981 and transformed it from an obsolete loss

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making a unit to a highly profitable modern textile mill.
Continuous up -of technology and research and development of products has transformed
Morarjee into a leading player in the fabric business. Most of the leading global and domestic
players are its clients today.

1.2 Corporate Profile

Morarjee is a leading player in premium cotton shirting fabric and high fashion printed fabric
globally. Morarjee subsidiary company, Integra Apparels and Textiles Ltd specializes in woven
tops, casual shirts and garments for women Morarjee has a 49% stake in Just Textiles Ltd. which
is currently engaged in processing various fabrics installed at its factory in Ambernath, Mumbai.
Morarjee counts most of the popular international and domestic brands as it clients, across 20
coutries. Dunhill, Zara, Esprit, Hugo Boss, Next, Paul Smith and Zodiac are some of its
customers. In the domestic market, Morarjee caters to popular brands like Louis Philippe, Van
Huesen and Zodiac.

1.3 Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric

Morarjee has an integrated manufacturing plant at Nagpur in Central India. The plant is equipped to
produce premium shirting and high fashion printed fabric for clients across the globe. To cater to the
changing demand and requirements of the fashion industry, Morarjee believes in investing in product
development and technology up-gradation.In the last decades, two new fabric manufacturing units have
been set up in Nagpur. These are supported by state- of-the-art Design Studios, to keep abreast of the
trends in the industry. The company today is focusing on premium and high value niche product segment
and has two divisions - Yarn dyed shirting division and Printing Division for voile, satin, poplin and other
high-end products.

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 2. Industry and Company Profile

Name of the Company – Morarjee Textile

Address –Plot G1-G2, MIDC Industrial Area post Salaidhaba

Via Hingna, Butibori Nagpur-441122 (India)

www.morarjee.com

Head Office: Mumbai

Owner of the Mill – Mrs.Urvi Piramal

Vice chairperson –Mr Harsh Piramal

Managing Director – Mr. R.K Rewari

Year of establishment: Unit -1 (1995)

Unit -2 (2003)

Unit -3 (2016)

Achievements- ISO 9001-2004 & ISO 14001-2008

Product Range – 100% Cotton, Voile Fabric, Viscose and Shirting

Power Consumption -66000 watts/day

Water consumption -1500-1700 m3/day

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Vision
Enriching the lives of communities by empowering them to develop and execute sustainable social
development models.

Mission
To operate in the best interests of the community

Core Values
We abide by these enduring values that are the foundation of our business and at the heart of all we do
each day.

Customer focus
We listen to our customers.
We are committed to delivering real value.
We take ownership of a customer’s problem until it is solved.

Integrity
We hold ourselves and those we work with to the highest ethical standards.
We are honest with each other and constructively give and willingly accept candid feedback.
We build relationships of trust so we can share and accept the truth, even when it is hard to say
or hear. We do the right things even when no one is watching.

Teamwork
We respect each other and value their ideas and points of view.
We work together and support each other to achieve our goals.
We incorporate fun with hard work.
We have a passion for winning.
We all play an important role.
We are one Enterprise. There is no “they” or “I”.

Accountability

We take ownership of results delivered in our area of work.

We are responsible for and committed to our own personal growth and development.
We work through challenges and obstacles to achieve a successful outcome

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3. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

Responsible for Consolidating training requirements and preparing training calendar based on
approved training needs, Organizing requisite training programs inline with training calendar,
Induction training for new entrants, Safety and welfare activities, Maintenance of training
records.

 Hire The Best Add Value to Retain

 Empower to Build Mutual Trust and Opportunity to Grow
 Induction to Morarjee textile Ltd value system training imparts Behavior, Culture,
Knowledge and Skill.

Number of Employee – Staff 350 and 3000 operator worker

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 Organogram of Industry

Chair person

Executive Vice Chairman

Executive director & Executive office

Managing director

President

General Manager

Dy.General Manager

Senior Manager

Manager

Dy.Manager

Assistant Manager

Executive

Senior Office

Officer

Trainee Officer

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 4. Operation Department

1) Spinning
2) Weaving
3) Processing
4) Printing studio
5) Printing

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4.1 Spinning unit
Spinning is the twisting together of drawn-out strands of fibers to form yarn, and is a major part
of the textile industry. The yarn is then used to create textiles, which are then used to
make clothing and many other products. There are several industrial processes available to spin
yarn, as well as hand-spinning techniques where the fiber is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto
a bobbin.

Fig.4.1 New spinning unit

4.1.1. Blow room operation:

1. Opening: Here, the compressed bales of fibers are opened for making the cotton tuft in a
small size.
2. Cleaning: This operation is used to remove dust, dirt, broken leafs, broken seeds, stalks and
other foreign materials from the fibers.
3. Blending: Mixing or blending process has performed for producing higher quality yarn by
reducing production costing which is only possible by mixing different grade of fibers.

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4. Even feed of material to the card: It is done to transfer the opened and cleaned fibers into a
sheet form of specific width and uniform unit length which is termed as lap. It is also used
to roll the lap of predetermined length into a cylindrical shape around a lap pin. It is also
used to transfer the lap from the lap pin in a rod to suitable handle and feed it to subsequent
processing carding machine. In carding machine the wave is converted in slivier

4.1.2 Draw frame breaker

Carded Slivers are fed into the Draw-Frame and are stretched/Straightened and made into a
single sliver. Also, fiber blending can be done at this stage. The cans that contain the sliver
are placed along the draw-frame feeder rack, usually including eight pairs of cylinders (each
pair is above the space occupied by a can), the lower cylinder is commanded positively,
while the upper one rests on the lower one in order to ensure movement of the relative sliver
that runs between the two. Rieter - E 35 OMEGA lap machine is used for this operation
which doubles the sliver to sliver.

Fig 4.2Draw Frame Breaker

4.1.3 Combing
When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening
called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until
they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are
combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers.
The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a
smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the original card sliver; thus
almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified

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with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and
more serviceable fabrics, quality Cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from
combed yarns or combed yarns.

Fig 4.3 Comber machine

4.1.4 Draw Frame Finisher

In this process the sliver get doubled Here the six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing
from delivery. The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from cans should
break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set
of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as
the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is

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attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by
coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The
sliver is now ready for roving frames.

Fig 4.4 Draw frame finisher

4.1.5 Speed Frame Simplex is an intermediate process in which fibers are converted into low
twist lea called roving. The sliver which is taken from draw frame is thicker so it is not suitable
for manufacturing of yarn. Its purpose is to prepare input package for next process. This package
is to prepare on a small compact package called bobbins. In this winding operation that makes us
roving frame complex.

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4.1.6 Ring Frame

The ring spinning frame, commonly called the ring, is the conventional spinning system and it
transforms the roving from the roving frame into spun yarn using the operations of:

 Drawing

 Twisting

 Winding

Fig.4.6 Ring Frame

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 5. Weaving

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads
are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The method in which these
threads are inter-woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom,
a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A
fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding
between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other
techniques without looms.

Flow chart of Weaving

WINDING
↓
WARPING
↓
SIZING
↓
DRAWING
↓
LOOMING
↓
WEAVING

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5.1Weaving preparatory Process

There are three main steps of weaving preparatory process

1. Winding

2. Warping

3. Sizing

5.1.1 Winding

Winding is a process in which yarn from ring bobbins are wound into convenient form
of package. Transferring a yarn from one type of package, more suitable for subsequent process
is also called winding. It occurs both in spinning & weaving. Main objectives of winding
include.

 Increase package size according to the requirement of subsequent process.

 Clearing yarn defects like slub, thick and thin places, neps, etc.
 Package dying
 Doubling

5.1.2 Warping

Warping is the process of transferring a number of yarns from a creel of single end packages,
forming a parallel sheet on to a beam. The main objectives of warping are:

 To get the required number of ends as per set calculation.

 To get the required length of yarn on each beam of the set.

 To wind a specific type of package required by subsequent process.

There are two type of warping

 Sectional (5)
 Direct (1)

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5.1.3 Sizing
The weaving requires warp yarn to be strong, smooth and elastic to a certain degree. To achieve
these properties, protective coating of a film forming agent is applied to the warp yarns prior to
weaving. The application of size material on the warp sheet, to induce the desired properties is
called slashing or sizing. Sizing is to produce Quality Fabric economically and efficiently.

Objectives

The main objectives of sizing are as follows:

 To get the required number of ends

 To increase the strength of yarn

 To cover the hairiness of yarn

 To maintain flexibility in yarn

 To make yarn surface smooth and pliable.

The chemical used for sizing to increase the strength Asap cone ,SFR, Phenol, count (70),M-
plast (80) .

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 Weaving machine

Fig5.1 Toyota JAT 810 loom machine

5.1.4 Production machine

Grey loom: 32 loom

Capacity produce: 9000 MTR/Day

Dyed loom: 80 loom

Capacity Produce: 33000 MTR/Day

5.1.5 Inspection of Loom

Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving defects. The removable
defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects’ location is noted down and the
frequency is noted. There is a roller attatched counter which counts the number of metres
inspected and helps in location the position of the defect.

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 5.1.6 Grey Fabric Defects

SR No. Denoted by Fabric Faults

1 T Torn
2 TP Thick Place
3 BP Broken Pick
4 ST Stain
5 H Hole
6 CR Crank
7 DP Double Pick
8 BE Broken Pick
9 MP Miss pick
10 TR Tail Re Entry
11 DE Double End
12 FL Float
13 WD Wrong Drawn
14 WW Wrong Weft
15 SLO Slough Off
16 SL Slub
17 LE Loose End
18 TE Tight End
19 TW Thick Warp
20 DS Dirty Splice
21 FF Foreign Fiber
22 SP Size Patch
23 QWP Oily Warp
24 OW Oily Weft
25 DST Distortion
26 FLF Fluff
27 WNR Weft Not Removed
28 TWT Thick Weft
29 M Moiré
30 TS Torn Selvedge
31 DF Dobby Fault
32 FW Free Weft
33 TC Temple cut
34 WCE Wrong Color end
35 ME Missing `End
36 CC Color Change
37 CV Color Variation

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 6. Processing Department

Processing flow sheet

Grey fabric

Bleaching

Dyeing Finishing

Printing

Finishing

Folding

Chemical consumption

1. Peroxide -150kg/Month

2. Hypo Chloride -500 Kg/Month

3. Cotoclarina 63 -50 Kg/Month

4. Forylase AT -50 Kg/Month

5. Ran Sc -50 Kg/Month

6. Nockel -70kg/Month

7. Mega Acid -60 Kg/Month

8. Mega Tube ACA -40 Kg/Month

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6.1 Processing Department

 Scouring

Scouring is the first process carried out with or without chemicals, at room temperature or at suitable
higher temperatures with the addition of suitable wetting agents, alkali and so on. Scouring removes all
the waxes, pectins and makes the textile material hydrophilic or water absorbent.

 Bleaching
Bleaching, a process of whitening fabric by removal of natural color, such as the tan of linen,
is usually carried out by means of chemicals selected according to the chemical composition
of the fiber.CBR, Jet Drying, Kier, Jigger Machine are used for bleaching process.
6.1.1 Continuous Bleaching Reactor (CBR) parameters

Cotton Linen Unit 1 Y/D Unit 1 white

Poplene
Machine Speed 100Mtr/min 100 Mtr/min 100 Mtr/min 100 Mtr/min

Temperature Fortracta 12 95oC 95oC 95oC 95oC

Washer 13 95oC 95oC 95oC 95oC
Washer 14 80oC 80oC 80oC 80oC
Reacipe
Caustic 8 ml/kg 5 ml/kg 8 ml/kg 8ml/kg
Stabilizer 2.5 ml/kg 2.5 ml/kg 4.5 ml/kg 4.5 ml/kg
wetting 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg
Sequestering 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 3 ml/kg
Peroxide 10 ml/kg 10 ml/kg 22 ml/kg 22 ml/kg

Steamer
Dwell Time 10 min 5 min 10 min 10 min

Temp 94oC 94oC 94oC 94oC

Temperature

Fortracta 23 95oC 95oC 95oC 95oC

Washer 23 95oC 95oC 95oC 95oC

Washer 24 95oC 95oC 95oC 95oC

Washer 25 70oC 70oC 70oC 70oC

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6.1.3 Mercerization Process

The treatment of cotton fabrics or garments with a cold concentrated solution of sodium
hydroxide for a minute or less is called mercerization. It is a value added Process.

After this process the cotton fibers will swell, untwist and their beam shaped cross section will
change into round form giving smoothness to the fabric. Tension is applied to the fabrics in the
machine in the vertical direction with a tension cylinder, and in the horizontal direction with a
clip tenter. The processing time by the cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds. To
prevent the fabrics from shrinking after going through the tenter, the NaOH concentration in the
fabrics needs to be decreased sufficiently when the fabrics leave the tenter. Also, since the piling
on thick fabrics in a wet state leaves creases on the fabrics, the thick fabrics need to be dried
promptly. Change in a cross-section of a cotton fiber during a mercerization treatment. The
capacity of the machine is 75000 meter per day.

6.1.4 Steamer
After that the fabric goes to the steamer which is located at a higher level where direct heating is
given to the fabric. Only steam is present in the streamer. The temperature of the steamer is
usually 94`C. The fabric stays in the steamer for 10 minute. On the sides of steamers there are
four tanks having hydro caustic after A-Ring. Here the fabric loss the strength and remove
impurities.

6.2 Dyeing
Main objective in the dyeing of textile materials are:

· Color the fibers uniformly.

· Achieve acceptable durability of the color to further treatments in production and normal use.
Fastness of the color material to sunlight and multiple cleaning is of prime importance.

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6.2.1Cold patch batch

This technique is a variation of pad dyeing. The fabric is immersed in the dye liquor at room
temperature. After the excess liquor is squeezed out by the pad rollers, the roll of fabric is
wrapped to prevent drying. It is then rotated slowly for up to 48 hours to obtain uniformity of
dye application. The fabric is then washed in a mild alkaline solution to remove the liquor
additives and unfixed dyes. Finally the cloth is extracted and dried.

6.3 FINISHING PROCESS:

Newly constructed fabric is called greige goods or grey fabric. The goods must pass various
finishing processes to make it suitable for its intended end use. Finishing may change the
appearance of the fabric, its hand (feel), its serviceability, and it durability in this unit.

6.3.1 STENTERING

This process is applied at various stages of finishing. Usually the fabric is wet when it is run into
a tenter. After being relaxed during dyeing and finishing, all fabrics are coaxed back to normal
width on a tentering frame. The endless chain of mechanical fingers, or tenter-frame clips, grips
the fabric selvedges on entering the machine, which has been set for the narrowest width of the
fabric. Gently but firmly, the fingers stretch the fabric to a predetermined width as is passes
down the length of the tenter over live steam and subsequently heat, which dries and sets the
fabric.

6.3.2 Sanforising
 It is pre shrinking finishing

 Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it

 Shrinkage > 5 %

 Speed 50 m/min

 Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C

 50 m fabric from in to out

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  After shrinking zone, there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric

 Fabric is cooled and then batched

 Some shade variation may occur

 Pressure-9kg/cm2

 Finishing types

1. Soft finishing

2. Stiff finishing

3. ETI finishing

4. Anti Micro Bacterial

6.4 Folding

Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving/ spinning defects. The
removable defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects’location is noted down
and the frequency is noted. There is a roller attatched counter which counts the number of metres
inspected and helps in location the position of the defect.

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 7. Print studio

Morarjee has always played a great role in the fashion movement, for over a century. To
spearhead this, it has set up a state-of-the-art design studio in Italy and India. These studios are
run by creative a team that provide speedy solutions and ideas, customizes designs and also gives
access to the latest international styles, exclusive colors, patterns and designs.

The processes in design studio is divided into following sections

1. Creation-The design is created and designed according to the specifications given by the
customer. The people from marketing department visit the place and understand about the
design that needs to be printed according to the specifications provided by the buyer.
The design to be printed is decided by:-

 specifications given by the buyer

 Trend forecasting

 Fashion forecasting

 Magazines report

2. Separation: The colors present in the specific design are made in several specific channels. The color
components present in the design are segregated individually to understand the color requirement
according to that design. It is decided by the printing department, design studio, PPC, marketing and
quality control. The process of separation is done on the basis of availability of machines & the design
specifications given by the buyer. The finalized design is then sent for engraving or exposing.

3. Engraving or exposing: This is the process of engraving the specified design on the screens
so that it can be used for printing processes.

Process flow of exposing:

 Unpacking the screen

 Changing the curvature of screen that is flat to cylindrical

 Degreasing

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  Coating

 Exposing

 Developing

 Endring

 Preparation of Dichromate Solution

 100 ml of distilled water + 20 gm ammonium bicarbonate powder

 20 % aqueous solution for mixing in photo emulsion

4. Strike Off

 The order or design specifications are given by the buyer to the marketing department
and the design studio.

 It deals mainly with the sampling of the specified design.

 Samples are made on baby rotary printing machine ( screen -9 “X 9” )

 Ingredients used for printing is sodium alginate ,urea (10-15 %) ,sodium bicarbonate
,Turkey Red oil (TRO ) and water (80 % ).

 10 -15 made samples are sent to the buyer for approval out of which5-7 samples are
selected for bulk printing.

This process takes a time span of 10 days for the completion of whole process.

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 8. Printing
It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads, nylon, polyester, vinyon or
metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked areas
onto the fabric. Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as 'Flat Screen Printing' or
'Rotary Screen Printing.

A significant characteristic of screen printing is that a greater thickness of the color can be
applied to the substrate than is possible with other printing techniques. This allows for some very
interesting effects that are not possible using other printing methods. Because of the simplicity of
the application process, a wider range of inks and dyes are available for use in screen printing
than for use in any other printing process.

Utilization of screen printing presses has begun to increase because production rates have
improved. This has been a result of the development of the automated and rotary screen printing
press, improved dryers, and U.V. curable ink. The major chemicals used include screen
emulsions, inks, and solvents, surfactants, caustics and oxidizers used in screen reclamation.

Screen printing is by far the most common technology today. Based on the type of the screen
used. Two types exist:

1) Rotary screen printing

2) Flat (bed) screen printing.

 Rotary Screen Printing

Rotary screen printing is so named because it uses a cylindrical screen that rotates in a fixed
position rather than a flat screen that is raised and lowered over the same print location.
Rotary presses place the squeegee within the screen. These machines are designed for roll-to-
roll printing on fabric ranging from narrow to wide-format textiles. In rotary printing, the
fabric travels at a consistent speed. By converting the screen-printing process from semi
continuous to continuous, higher production speeds are obtained than in flat bed printing.
Typical speeds are from 50-120 yards per minute for rotary screen printing depending upon
design complexity and fabric construction.

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  Zimmer machine is used for the process.
 Engraving is done on the screen.
 Zimmer have 12 screen colors.
 After printing Ageing 102 C is done for reactive color and for pigment color curing
done at 150 C.
 Printing capacity is 30000 meter at 6 mpm to 100 mpm .
 Then the fabric is send to the quality check and then to the finishing Department.

Fig. 8.1 Rotary screen machine

 Plate and Frame Printing

In Plate and frame screen printing, this process is an automated version of the older hand
operated silk screen printing. For each color in the print design, a separate screen must be
constructed or engraved. If the design has four colors, then four separate screens must be
engraved. The flat-bed screen process is a semi-continuous, start-stop operation. Flat screen
machines are used today mostly in printing terry towels. Currently, approximately 15-18% of
printed fabric production worldwide is done on flat-bed screen machines.

 Printing process a where the Plate and frame is used for printing .
 Screen design is engraved the by the machine.

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  Then it is send to the printing machine where different design screen is used to print on
the fabric

Fig.8.2 plate and Frame printing

Production Technique

 TPM –Total productive maintenance, kaizen, lean, Six Sigma are used in the industry.
 Quality circle is used which regularly to identify, analyze and solve work-related
problems.
 5s organizing the workplace.
 Certification: ISO 9001-2000,ISO 14001-2004

Oeko- Tex 100, Egyptain Cotton, GOTS

Total capacity of plant

(i) Spinning facility enhanced by 40,128 Spindles

(ii) Weaving Capacity increased by 112 Looms

(iii) Printing Capacity enhanced by 78 lac meter per annum

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 Conclusion

The textile internship has been completed in Morarjee Textiles Ltd, Nagpur, Maharashtra. The
duration of the internship was of two weeks where we had covered designs studio, pretreatment
of cotton fabric, dyeing, printing and quality control & assurance methods of textile processing.
We study the various aspects of a textile processing unit starting from design section to the
functionality of the various departments. We are introduced to the various brands of machineries
available for carrying out the different textile processes to meet global standards. The internship
helps us to understand the structural and functional constituents of the industry and also adapt to
real industrial situations which equips us for decision making in a realistic environment.

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