Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
PATTERNMAKING TOOLS
To work efficiently, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies. To communicate effectively in the workroom and to minimize
errors due to misunderstanding, the patternmaker should know and understand terminology. This chapter introduces tools, supplies, and
definitions of terms used in industry. The professional patternmaker arrives on the job with all tools required for patternmaking. Each tool
should be marked with an identity symbol and transported in a carrying case. Tools may be purchased from apparel supply houses, art stores,
department stores, and yardage stores. Specialized tools, such as a rabbit punch used to punch
pattern holes for hanger hooks, are generally supplied by the manufacturer
1. Straight pins:
3. Scissors:
Black, green, red, and blue felt-tip pens for pattern information.
5. Rulers:
___ Tailor’s square—24 × 14-inch metal ruler with two arms forming
6. Curve rules:
8. Push pins:
___ Prevents pattern slippage when Cutting several ply’s of paper together.
12. Notcher:
___ Blunted wheel is used with carbon paper to transfer pattern shapes to muslin.
14. Awl:
___ Clay, chalk, chalk wheel, or chalk marking pencils in black and white.
Drafting method:-
Square across and down from point 0.
Note:- After preparation of all production patterns - Mark grain line, fold line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, style number and other
special information (Pocket, embroidery placement etc.) if required
sleeve
Introduction:-
Sleeves have been used as a device for changing the silhouette of garments throughout the history of fashion. In the 1880s, the dominant
silhouette was a leg-of-mutton sleeve—a sleeve that puffs out from the shoulder with the lower section tapered toward the wrist. For the next
10 years, the sleeve puff varied from slim to voluminous and billowy. In the 1920s, a sleeve with a darted or an extended cap became popular.
In the 1940s, the sleeve was smooth and included padded shoulders ranging from square and tailored to oversized exaggeration. There was a
return to a natural shoulder with minimal padding in the 1950s. This gave tailored garments an even look along the shoulder seam. Since then,
these important sleeve silhouettes have appeared and disappeared and will probably reappear again.
There are two major classifications of sleeves: the set-in sleeve cut separately and stitched into the armhole of the bodice and the sleeve
combined with part or all of bodice.
Set-in Sleeve:- Set-in sleeves can be designed to fit the armhole smoothly or with gathers. They can be designed fitted or with
exaggerated fullness and can be cut to any length. The hemline of the sleeve can be finished in a number of ways.
Example of set-in-sleeves: Cap sleeve, Puff sleeve, circular sleeve, Bell sleeve, petal sleeve, lantern sleeve, leg-of-mutton sleeve,
wedding sleeve etc.
Combined Sleeve:- The sleeve and top of any garment (blouse, dress, jacket, or coat) can be combined in a variety of ways.
Example combined sleeves: Kimono sleeve, Dolman sleeve, Raglan sleeve etc.
Basic Sleeve
Introduction:-
The basic sleeve is a mounted sleeve stitched to the basic bodice armhole. A sleeve is to fit an arm, which
is one of the most efficient and mobile parts of the human anatomy. The arm functions primarily in a
forward motion but is capable of moving in every direction. This flexibility should be considered when
testing the fit and comfort of the sleeve. The center grain of a well-fitted sleeve should align with or be
slightly forward of the side seam of models having a perfect stance. The arms of models with stooped
shoulders tend to hang too far forward from the side seams. The arms of models with an upright stance
tend to hang too far to the back from the side seams. In either case, the sleeve should align with the
position of the relaxed arm without regard to alignment with the side seam.
Sleeve Terminology
Grain line:- Straight grain of the sleeve, which is the center of the sleeve from top of cap to wrist level.
Biceps level:- Widest part of the sleeve dividing cap from the lower sleeve.
Sleeve cap:- Curved top of the sleeve above biceps line.
Cap height:- Distance from biceps to the top at the grain line.
Elbow level:- Placed at the articulation point of the arm, and the location of the elbow dart.
Wrist level:- Entry for the hand
Notches :- A notch at the top of the sleeve cap divides cap ease between front and back sleeve and
armhole of the bodice. One notch identifies the front sleeve, and two notches identify the back sleeve.
Ease begins and ends at the front and back notches.
Cap ease:- Ranging from 3 cm. to 4 cm. (depending on size) between front and back notches.
Measurement:-
Armscye (Armhole round) - 92 Centimeters Biceps measurement- _____ (Measure from Basic Bodice)
Sleeve length - 56 cm. Cap height - _____
Drafting method:-
Draw a line on paper, mark and label.
Divide point 0 to 4 into equal four parts and mark 13, 14 & 15.
Mark square lines from the point 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 15.
Ready pattern without elbow dart:- Ready pattern with elbow dart:-
Trace along the points 0, 16, 17, 18, 5, 9, Trace along the points 0, 16, 17, 18, 5, 9, 27, 26, 24
7, 1, 6, 8, 4, 21, 20, 19 and till point 0 23, 22, 4, 21, 20, 19 and till point 0
Note:-
After preparation production patterns - Mark grain line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, Size and style number etc.
Drafting method:-
Square across and down from point 0.
1 Out from 0 = Half of the Hip measurement + 1.5 cm. Square down.
2 Down from 0 = Skirt length. Square out to point 3.
4 Down from 0 = Hip depth. Square out to point 5.
6 Out from 4 = ¼ Of hip measurement + 1.5 cm. Square up to point 7 and down to point 8.
Back:-
9 Out from 0 = ¼ Of waist measurement + 5 cm. Square up.
10 Up From 9 = 1 cm. Join point 0 and 10 with slant line, join point
6 to 10 with broken line.
Divide 0 to 10 into equal three parts and mark
11 and 12
Square down from both points 11 and 12
13 Down from 11 = 14 Cm.
14 Down from 12 = 12.5 Cm.
Construct two darts from point 11 &12 with 2.5
cm width.
Join point 10 and point 6 with 0.5 cm. Outwards
curve.
Front:-
15 Out from 1 = ¼ Of waist measurement + 2.5 cm. Square up.
16 Up From 15 = 1 cm. Join point 16 and 1 with slant line, join
point 6 to 16 with broken line.
17 Out from 16 = 1/3 of point 16 to point 1 measurement.
Square down from points 11.
18 Down from 17 = 10 Cm.
Construct a dart from point 17 with 2.5 cm width.
Join point 16 and point 6 with 0.5 cm. Outwards
curve.
Add 5 + 1 centimeter seam allowance for bottom fold and edge finish.
Add 5 + 1 centimeter seam allowance for bottom fold and edge finish.
Note:- After preparation of all production patterns - Mark grain line, fold line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, style number and other
special information (Pocket, embroidery placement etc.) if required
Waist Band:-
0-1 = Waist measurement.
1-2 = Extension width (3 Cm)
0-3 = Waist Band height. Square out to 4 & 5.
Point 6 is the midpoint of 0 – 1. Square down to 7(Mark for side Seam-Right)
Point 8 is the midpoint of 0 – 6. Square down to 9 (Mark for Centre front)
Point 10 is the midpoint of 6 – 1. Square down to 11(Mark for Centre back)
Fly facing:-
Trace front ready pattern with waist line and side seam line.
Fly Extension:-
Trace Back ready pattern with waist line and side seam line.
E-F = fly opening length. Draw square line from point E & F
E-G = Extension width (3 Cm)
F- H = E – G Minus 5mm. (3 - 0.5 = 2.5)
Trace E, F, H & G on paper and cut.
DART MANIPULATION
Principle. A dart can be transferred to any location around the pattern’s outline from a designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit
of the garment.
Corollary. The dart excess (space between the dart legs) can be used as gathers, pleats, tuck-darts, style lines (those that cross over the bust
point or within 1 inch of the bust), cowls, flare (unstitched dart legs), or ease in the armhole for casual garments. The creative use of the dart
excess is called a dart equivalent.
The dart or its equivalent will always be somewhere within the pattern where it was first developed. Dart(s) or dart equivalents will direct
themselves toward the pivotal point. A dart ends before reaching the pivotal point and should not go beyond it, especially the pivotal point of
the bust.
SINGLE-DART SERIES
SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE
1. CF Waist Dart
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Trace the charted pattern. Mark the center front waist dart. Label dart legs A and B.
Draw slash line from center front waist to bust point.
Slash pattern from center front waist to, not through, bust point
Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
Place pattern on paper and retrace.
Center dart point 5/8 inch from bust point.
Draw dart legs to dart point
Add seams to pattern or muslin, as shown.
Complete pattern, using general pattern information for guidance, if necessary
To test fit, cut on fold for full front; for halfmuslin,
Add a 1-inch extension at front. Cut back pattern to complete design.
CF Waist Dart
Trace the charted pattern. Mark the Mid Shoulder dart. Label dart legs A and B.
Draw slash line from Mid Shoulder to bust point.
Slash pattern from Mid Shoulder to, not through, bust point
Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
Place pattern on paper and retrace.
Centre dart point 5/8 inch from bust point.
Draw dart legs to dart point
Add seams to pattern or muslin, as shown.
Complete pattern, using general pattern information for guidance, if necessary
Add Seam Allowance and make final Pattern As per design (requirement)
SINGLE-DART SERIES
Pivotal-transfer TECHNIQUE
The pivotal-transfer technique involves manipulating the original working pattern into a new shape by pivoting, shifting and tracing,
instead of cutting. The working pattern is placed on top of pattern paper with a push pin placed through the pivotal point. To transfer a dart to
a new location, the dart is marked on the paper underneath and then traced to an existing dart on the pattern. The pattern is then pivoted,
closing original dart legs while opening space for the new dart. The remaining untraced pattern is traced to paper underneath. Once an area of
the pattern has been traced, it is not traced again. This will be illustrated in the following design projects. Push pins are also used to transfer
stylelines within the pattern’s frame. When the pattern is removed from the paper, the lines are trued with straight or curved rulers, using the
pin marks as a guide. The shaded area on the illustrations indicates the part of the pattern affected when traced. Complete the sequence of
exercises and save the patterns for future use.
1. Mid-Neck Dart
Pattern Plot and Manipulation Mid neck dart
Place the working pattern on paper with a push pin through the bust point (pivotal point).
Mark the mid-neck location (point C) and dart leg a on paper.
Trace the section of pattern from dart leg A to C (blue line and shaded area).
Pivot pattern until dart leg B touches A on paper
(Close waist dart and opens space for the mid neck dart).
Trace the remaining section of the pattern from dart leg B to point C on the pattern (blue line and shaded area). Note: When the
pattern is pivoted, it will overlay the previously traced pattern section.
This is a natural occurrence. Remember, once a section of the pattern is traced, it is not traced again.
Remove the working pattern from paper.
Draw dart legs to bust point.
Center the dart point 5/8 inch from the bust point.
Redraw dart legs to the dart point.
Add 1/2-inch seams and 1/4 inch at neckline.
Mark side dart location (C) and trace pattern from A to C (shaded area).
Pivot the pattern until dart leg B touches point A on paper
(closes waist dart and opens space for side dart).
Trace remaining pattern.
Remove the pattern, draw dart legs to bust, center dart point 5/8 inch
from bust point, and draw new dart legs.
Add Seam allowance and complete pattern
Side dart
TWO-DART SERIES
SLASH—SPREADTECHNIQUE
A two-dart working pattern (waist and side dart) will be developed for the projects that follow. The two-dart pattern is used in industry
more often than a one-dart pattern. There are advantages to dividing the dart excess into more than one location other than the creative
aspects of the design.
1. Waist Cluster
Pattern Plot and Development
• Fold dart excess toward center front (allow pattern to cup). Waistline will be uneven.
• Draw blending line across waistline. Draw seam allowance, 1/2-inch line parallel with
waistline.
• Cut excess while darts are folded, or trace (with tracing wheel) across seam allowance
line.
• Unfold and pencil in perforated line.
• To complete the patterns, cut three copies for practice. Choose the dart equivalent
desired (darts, tuck-darts, or pleats).
A. Dart Cluster
• Center punch hole 1/2 inch from dart point and circle.
• Notch pattern, including dart legs.
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back for test fit.
B. Tuck-Dart Cluster
• Mark the center fold of each dart for punch holes one-half the
distance to dart point (varies).
• Mark punch holes in center and 1/8 inch from dart legs.
• Circle all punch marks.
• Notch seam allowance and dart legs.
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete for test fit.
C. Pleat Cluster
• Notch each dart leg (broken lines indicate original dart legs).
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete for test fit.
• Punch holes—not required for gathers.
• Trace basic bodice pattern. Label dart legs A and B. Square a line
from center front to bust point.
• Draw a guideline 1 inch from bust point, parallel with center
front.
• Draw line 3/4 inch out from each side of line to guideline.
• Connect to bust point as shown.
• Cut pattern from paper.
3. Shoulder Cluster
Graduated Darts
Design Analysis:
Design features graduating darts along the shoulder line. The longest dart ends at bust level.
Radiating Darts
Design Analysis
Design features radiating darts from neck, with the longest dart placed at mid-
neckline and directed to bust point.
ASYMMETRIC DARTS
Asymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of
the working pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all
designs that differ from side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to
complete the design for test fit.
Design Analysis:
Both darts end at the waist on the same side, forming tuck-darts. Scoop neckline completes the design.
Transfer waist darts to mid-armhole location, where they will not interfere with plotting of the stylized
darts. Beginners may want to use a basic neckline (bow not illustrated).
Tuck-Darts
Design Analysis:
Darts are treated as pleats in the “V” section. The neckline is cut away.
Style lines
Introduction
Stylelines fall into two classifications: those that cross over the bust and those that do not. Stylelines discussed in this chapter are those
crossing over the bust, replacing dart legs with style seams. Stylelines that absorb dart excess within stitchlines control the fit of the garment
and are called dart equivalents, as discussed in the corollary for, Dart Manipulation. The original size and fit of the garment remain the same,
even though the shapes of the pattern pieces have been changed through manipulation.
equivalents. The panel design included in the chapter represents this type and
clarifies the difference between the two styleline types.
Design Analysis
The classic princess is distinguished by a styleline that starts at the front and back
waist darts, continues over bust points and shoulder blades, and ends at mid-
shoulder dart of the back (position of dart point can vary to improve styleline).
Stylelines (dart equivalents) replace darts. The design can be based on the one- or
two-dart pattern.
Front Bodice
Separate pattern
• Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point (new pivot point). Label X.
• Cut and separate pattern along styleline
• Cut slash line from bust point and dart point to, not through, point X.
• Close side dart legs. Tape. (This provides ease for the side bust.)
Shaping Styleline
Back Bodice