Merged

DATATEX
MAGAZINE
Focus on Italy
Italian fabrics for luxury

interview with Stefano Bernasconi
Fabrics made in Italy since 1929

interview with Michele Azimonti
A great company in Forlì

interview with Monica Zoli
The great Italian yarn industry

interview with Massimo Marchi
DATATEX MAGAZINE
‘‘
Ciao!
With the new Datatex Magazine we want to continue the story

of corporate publishing, a story that had a long history, starting
from the early eighties all the way to 2001 when we stopped the
paper publications of our company newspaper, which at the
time reached over 30.000 copies. The copies could be found in
the corridors and on the desks of all the most important medi-
um – sized Italian companies. In 2001 I decided to interrupt
paper communication by concentrating more on Internet and on
digital communication, just as in recent years our marketing de-
partment has been focusing on the web, as well as on trade shows
and traditional commercial channels. Today – while obviously
maintaining the digital marketing channels, we have revaluated
paper communication once again.
In recent years there has been a process of inflation, “pauperiza-

tion” and saturation of online communication, and in this con-
text deciding to publish a company magazine is a sign of prestige
and distinction, adequate for a company like ours which has an
important name and history. The “appeal” of the paper will nev-
er be reached by digital communication, and the paper remains
on the desk, lasts over time, and offers a possibility to elaborate
better certain topics that are not merely advertising.
The interviews curated by Luigi Torriani contained in this first

issue of the new Datatex Magazine, if read carefully, pose im-
portant questions, and give significant food for thought to all,
and in particular for entrepreneurs who still resist, operate and
invest in Italy, and believe in the future of our country.
(Maurizio Desio – CEO of Datatex Group).

‘‘
1
DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 1 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX MAGAZINE
‘‘ The revival of the paper edition of the magazine, with extensive

and in – depth content, not very suitable for the web context, was
designed to deepen the conversation about the Italian economic
and social reality, and encourage a debate within companies
(the interviews published in the magazine can however be read
also online on the magazinedatasys.it website). The new Datatex
Magazine is distributed periodically to clients and prospect com-
panies. Our Marketing department took care of the graphic and
layout part while the interviews and contents are written by me.
This is why I want to thank all the people (entrepreneurs, manag-
ers, university professors, journalists) who responded enthusias-
tically to my questions, showing great willingness to confront the
topics. I dedicate this first issue of the new Datatex Magazine to
my father Franco Torriani. Enjoy the reading!
Luigi Torriani – curator of the Datatex Magazine)
‘‘
2

DATATEX MAGAZINE
INTRODUCTION
DATATEX Magazine is the company magazine of the Datatex Group,
directed by Luigi Torriani, containing interviews, case studies, focus
and insights on the textile world.
WHO WE ARE
Datatex was founded in 1987 by a group of very experienced textile consultants,
and a software house specialized in business management. Today it is an inter-
national leader in erp solutions for the textile world, has ownership of the software
Now and is present in 42 countries in the world (with headquarters in Italy and
offices in Israel, Switzerland, Germany, United States, India). Datatex offers to its
customers a long-term commitment to provide solutions that remain contempo-
rary over the years, are able to grow and support all changes and adapt their
technological offer.
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR

Luigi Torriani Giuseppe Romeo
GRAPHIC DESIGNER PROJECT

Mine Sinal DotWit
CONTACT US
DATATEX
Headquarter: Milan, Viale Lunigiana 46 I tel. 02 6797441
Israel: Haodem Str. 3 - Ramat Siv, Petach-Tikva – Israel I tel. +972 3 9234101
United States: 11810 Northfall Lane, Building 1203 Alpharetta, GA 30009 USA I tel. (+1) 770-667- 8656
Switzerland: Industriestrasse 47 po box 4461 Ch-6304 Zug, Switzerland I tel. +41 (0)417264283
Germany: Kirchstrasse 12 48485 Neuenkirchen – Germany I tel. +49 5973 99644
Serbia: Krunska 15 – Belgrade
For info: marketing@datatex.it

DATATEX MAGAZINE
INDEX
Clerici Tessuto. Italian fabrics for luxury p.6

Interview with Stefano Bernasconi
Mantero seta and the silk district in Como p.8

Interview with Franco Mantero
The Chinese textile in Prato, 30 years of activity p.11

Interview with Lorenzo Magnolfi
Ongetta The twisting of silk p.14

Interview with Andrea Ongetta
Dragoni, Fabrics made in Italy since 1929 p.16

Interview with Michele Azimonti
Dino Zoli Textile. A great company in Forlì p.17

Interview with Monica Zoli

DATATEX MAGAZINE
Taroni. The art of silk in Como p.19

Interview with Michele Canepa
Datatex. The new plant maintenance module p.21

Approfondimento di Paolo De Gobbi
Gruppo Marchi e Fildi. The great Italian yarn industry p.25

Interview with Massimo Marchi
Berto. Textile industry since 1887 p.28

Interview with Flavio Berto
Tig. Nylon and polyester fabrics since 1995 p.31

Interview with Enrico Raoul Carnaghi

DATATEX MAGAZINE
CLERICI TESSUTO
Italian fabrics for luxury
What is “luxury” in the structural changes on frequently updated on

Interview with world of fashion and the market and adjust- social media about trends
Stefano Bernasconi – clothing today? What ments and responses to and proposals, and always
CEO of Clerici Tessu- does it mean to be ele- these changes designed looking for the compo-
gant today? How has the by operators in the entire sition of products adapt-
to&C. SPA.
sector evolved in recent supply chain. In partic- able to the environment
Curated by
years? ular, the end consumer where they are worn. The
Luigi Torriani
T
has substantially changed uncertainty generated
oday luxury is his purchasing behavior by the new purchasing
seen mainly as with greater attention behavior of the end cus-
“exclusivity”, and to value, exclusivity and tomer and the request for
Grandate being elegant today means purchasing experience, answers in short time have
presenting a style that is which today has become led the sector to expand
as unique as possible and multi – channel: physical the product offer, with
inclined to the individual and digital. The consumer a consequent increasing
contexts, with refined is less “faithful” to the fragmentation of produc-
products and of the single brand, is less os- tion lots, and to reduce
highest intrinsic quality. tentatious, more attentive supply times. These
The sector has changed to transmitting messages aspects are reflected in the
significantly in recent about his way of being, upstream phases because
years, as a result of both
6

DATATEX MAGAZINE
they are structurally less in the accessories segment however is determined and what do you think
flexible and resilient due for both men and wom- by the ability to combine of e-commerce industry?
to the rigidity of produc- en. In the development service and excellence in Can it become a part of
tion assets. path of the company, the product. The pro- a business practice or is
Clerici Tessuto collab- the women’s accesso- duction takes place in a it something that must be
orates with the best ries area and fabrics for sustainable way, from a avoided for image reasons
brands in the fashion in- men’s clothing are the social and environmental and adherence to a trend?
dustry all over the world, two main growth routes point of view today, and The e-commerce channel
creates designs, creates today, objects of specific also from an energetic has only been active for a
and sells finished fab- investment initiatives. and biological point of few months and for now
rics and garments, has We as a company provide view. Sustainability is contributes less to business
collections for men’s and a sophisticated service an element that must be results. In any case it is
‘‘
women’s clothing, acces- to the market, especially aimed at serving mainly
sories (foulards, scarves, to the maison, as we are B2C clients, with the
ties) for large distri- partners of our custom- reference to small cloth-
bution, collections for ers, and we support them ing producers or retail. It
swimwear, intimates and
furnishing sector, and is
in product development
process, from the stylistic
Today luxury exceeds the logic of outlets
and is aimed at providing
one of the few companies briefing to the production is seen mainly prompt and fast service.
in the world today capa- of fabrics for the garments We believe it will have a
ble of traditional chine in their retail chains. as “exclusivi- significant importance
weaving and thanks to In a highly globalized ty”, and being in the next trimesters,
restructuring some of the and competitive con- especially when we open it
historical looms is able text such as today’s, the elegant today to more evolved markets
to create silk velvets with
an ancient technique.
“Italian system”, sadly
known for its high cost of
means present- from a digital point of
view.
Clerici Tessuto’s offer is labor and bureaucracy, ing a style that
therefore particularly certainly does not help
wide and able to satisfy companies be competi- is as unique as
a very heterogeneous
spectrum of requests and
tive. On the other hand,
the “Made in Italy”
possible and BIO
needs. What products brand in many sectors inclined to
C
and services are your has helped and in some lerici Tes-
core business today and cases still helps make the
the individual
suto, a his-
which products and ser- difference on the market. contexts, with toric Co-
vices, within your offer How much did it count
are the most promising
for the future?
Clerici Tessuto’s offer is
positioned at the high-
est levels of the market
in terms of quality and
in the past and how
important is the Italian
brand in the textile sec-
tor today?
The “Italy” brand is
certainly relevant for
refined prod-
ucts and of the
highest intrin-
sic quality.
‘‘ mo-based company
founded in 1922, is
one of the world’s
leading textile com-
panies today for the
complexity of production. the sector, however it is luxury sector, with
We often change our way no longer sufficient to an industrial com-
of work, based on our ex- determine the success of a plex of over 10.000
perience and our skills, to product. Once the “Italy” inextricably linked to the square meters in
create excellent products brand meant creative and “Italia” brand. Grandate (Como),
that tend to satisfy refined stylistic ability, today it Clerici Tessuto has an
and sophisticated market unequivocally expresses with a textile stamp-
outlet in Milan and has
requests. The fabrics for the ability to know how recently started selling
ing plant, a dyeing
clothing are still the “core to create unique and ex- online with the new plant and foreign
business” of the company, clusive products in an ar- e-commerce shop. How commercial offices in
although we are present in tisanal or pseudo – indus- important is the B2C Paris and New York.
the furniture market and trial way. The “difference” online channel for you,

DATATEX MAGAZINE
MANTERO SETA
and the silk district in Como
W
Mantero Seta – a historic ized context, a rapid and hen China
Interview with Como based production radical technological first appeared
Franco Mantero – CEO and distribution compa- evolution and an unfa- on the global
of Mantero Seta Spa ny for fabrics and acces- vorable trend in prod- market, many Italian
Curated by sories. It was founded in uct demand, until the clothing producers
Luigi Torriani 1902, time when 40% of global crisis that began decided to eliminate com-
companies in Como and in 2008. Even Mantero pletely the production
80% workforce were in Seta has gone through sector, cutting all costs of
the textile sector. More very difficult years but equipment and personnel,
than a century later, has remained standing. keeping only distribution
Como today the situation is How did you manage to and sometimes design,
very different. In the last save the company? What but still importing the
twenty years the Como are the moves you took finished product from
silk district has under- in order to “modernize” China. We did not neglect
gone a heavy downsizing. the brand and remain the great potentiality of
It suffered from a very competitive in today’s China, importing some
difficult situation during complex market? What is basic fabrics, and we
a sharp increase in inter- the situation of the Como decided to partially
national competition in silk district today? restructure the compa-
an increasingly global- ny by eliminating some

DATATEX MAGAZINE
departments, for example, export market. Today and online sales have way, given the increas-
the heddle weaving, and the turnover of Mantero doubled in value in the ing digitalization of the
preserve and strengthen consists in 77% pro- last five years. Many consumer. We can target
the jacquard-type frame duced in Europe, 17% companies however are our reference market in
sector. We invested a lot in America, and 6% in still “shy” and often do a more specific way and
in machinery, expanding Asia, but the latter is not invest in the web (in transfer our storytell-
the offer of the printing continuously growing. Italy there are 40.000 ing in an appropriate
press with state-of-the-art Taking into consider- companies that sell way, through words and
digital printing systems ation what may be the online, which is still an images, and represent the
that were added to our situation in a few years, insignificant number company’s DNA in a very
traditional printing that what are the advantages specific and new way. It is
‘‘
is our long-time special- and what are the disad- also an incredible possibil-
ty. Every day we try to vantages that the Chinese ity (through an e-com-
respond to the requests market brought to the merce that we are going to
of our customers who Como area and in Italy implement and promote)
are looking for moder- in general? to present collections and
nity and innovation that For us, China remains a to distribute the product
characterize our new very important market for
I think that that is otherwise limited
course of business but also two reasons: on the one the differentia- to multubrand stores.
the craftsmanship and hand it is undeniable that Moreover, our prod-
tradition that are part of it has become the new tion and inno- uct, carré in noble and
our DNA. Textiles are a
very high-risk sector. It
export market for finished
luxury products, on the
vation are the precious fibers declined in
various formats, does not
is a matter of taste, but other hand as a supplier key elements come in sizes, which often
also of high quality of the of raw materials (in our represents a problem for
product, of the ability to case silk) and will contin- to revive not the most cautious e-shop-
combine the imagination ue to have an important only individu- pers. This means that half
of Made in Italy with the role in the supply chain. of our communication
most modern production Our Chinese branch is in al companies, and promotion invest-
technologies. With very
sophisticated products,
charge of sourcing while,
thanks to major distrib-
but the entire ments will be concentrat-
ed in these areas.
we target the market of utors, we are promoting district and Is it possible to create a
luxury and excellence. our products in boutiques greater synergy between
keep the fame
This is why I think that
the differentiation and
innovation are the key
elements to revive not
only individual compa-
nies, but the entire district
and shopping malls in
major Chinese cities.
Mantero today sells also
directly to the public. In
2009 you opened the first
Mantero store, in the
of the prod-
ucts made in
Italy.
‘‘ tourism and textiles
in the historic Italian
districts, such as Como?
Is it possible and does
it make sense to create
a real tourism linked to
and keep the fame of the Swiss outlet Fox town in the world of silk, both for
products made in Italy. Mendrisio, and in 2014 shopping and for visit-
In addition to the office you opened the Grandate ing historical archives,
in Como, Mantero also outlet store in the Como museums and historical
has a branch in New area. Moreover, starting companies?
York and a branch from 2014, Mantero comparing it for example We have tried to integrate
in Hangzhou. Today products are also avail- to 200.000 companies in tourism into our business.
China, as a competitor, able online, with the pos- France that sell online). We organize, on request,
is becoming increasingly sibility to buy directly on How much are you going guided tours that show
important as a partner Facebook with only few to invest in this area in how our products are
in the Como district clicks. The e-commerce the next couple of years? born: from the research
and as a potential is also very interesting. For us, the web represents phase to quality control
market. It is a partner In Italy the number of a great opportunity. First through weaving, print-
for the purchase of raw e-shoppers is growing (as of all, it allows us to mar- ing, finishing. In our
material and also an in the rest of the world) ket our products in a new Grandate store, a stone’s

DATATEX MAGAZINE
throw from the produc- ry that was once very was in the past, it is un- of course is an interesting
tion site, you can find a important in formal oc- questionable that the way signal to intercept in order
wide assortment of stoles, casions, but today is not of dressing has changed to create collections dedi-
scarves, foulards, ties, fab- used so often anymore. and tends to be more and cated to this new potential
rics and even other objects The fabrics however still more degagé. However, target. To balance the
all made using our fabrics: represent an important the tie will always remain low request for ties, we at
notebooks, cushions, part of the Mantero’s a synonym of elegance Mantero develop collec-
laundry baskets, blouses turnover (10%). What and will always represent tions of male scarves, both
in order to be able to see is the future of the tie in a classy accessory, in many printed and jacquard, and
and feel what is being pro- your opinion and what countries and in many cir- we present new patterns
duced in our factory, to can be done to reintro- cumstances, a fundamen- and yarns every year.
be able to experience our duce it once again in tal piece of clothing in
world of Made in Italy, world of male fashion? the male wardrobe. Since
made in Como. Surely the tie will not fashion trends are cyclical,
In the last twenty years become (as it was for the the tie is becoming very
there has been a decline hats) the “indispensable” trendy among young peo-
of the tie, and accesso- accessory once again as it ple these days. This for us
INFORMATION SYSTEMS AND

WEB SOLUTIONS FOR TEXTILE-FASHION
www.datatex.com
10

DATATEX MAGAZINE
THE CHINESE TEXTILE

in Prato, 30 years of activity
are estimated to be even Chinese have chosen the fabric and leather pro-
Interview with more), while in 1990 textile district of Prato duction with their micro
Lorenzo Magnolfi, there were only 169 rather than other centers companies, in particular
Assistant Professor of Chinese residents. Except (Como for example). Are parts of the production
Economics – University in rare cases, they have there any hypothesis on process that require high
of Wisconsin – Madison not become employees the matter? intensity of work, and dif-
T
Curated by Luigi in Italian companies, ficult working conditions.
Torriani but have built small and he Chinese in These initial nucleuses
medium – sized compa- Prato (and in then grew organically in
nies that produce fabrics, northern Tuscany) the following decades,
knitwear and ready to have found fertile ground as often happens with
wear products. They since the late 80s with overseas Chinese com-
also provide services as their small businesses munities. In Prato, the
contractors for packaging operating in traditional Chinese gradually moved
Prato – historically one and supply activities. sectors (textile and leather from being subcontractors
of the most important This phenomenon is well goods) ready to buy from of Italian companies, to
European textile – fash- known, and is supported low cost sub-contractors. changing sectors, such
ion centers – now has by data provided by In- The Chinese immigrants as ready-to-wear, that
over 16.000 Chinese dustrial Union of Prato. were then inserted in are not core businesses
residents regularly What is interesting to the community initially of the Prato area. I don’t
living here (but they understand is why the carrying out phases of know the Como district
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
very well, but I think that 19% of the total number panies have taken over a believe that the general
Como companies have of employees hired in the good part of the capital effect of immigration
always been characterized same period. What kind (machinery and buildings) depends largely on the
by a lower fragmentation of evaluation can we give of the companies that no incentives we can give
of production compared to this situation? longer exist, and without to new residents. If the
to the Prato companies, The textile sector in Prato them the city would have city (and the country in
traditionally organized today has changed sig- suffered a terrible “Detroit general) is able to give
around an “impannatore” nificantly compared to its effect”. the message that ours is
(a person that doesn’t have peak in the eighties. The Prato is the Italian city a society where one who
his own production, but causes of these changes are with the highest percent- studies, works and invests
relies on different compa- mostly long term factors, age of foreign residents: lives well, and there is no
nies in order to place his innate characteristics 15% compared to an room for those who don’t
product on the market). A of the district that the Italian average of 7.5%. respect the law and rules
more integrated business Pratese people were not Beyond this specific case and create problems for
organization has prob- able to overcome, and of the textile industry in others, these new residents
ably offered less oppor- which have proved to be Prato, can we consider will be a great wealth for
tunities for the Chinese unsolvable in the econo- this as a symptom of dec- us. Chinese residents in
‘‘
micro-companies to enter my of 21st century. The adence or as a possibility particular often bring
these factories, a phase contemporary emergence with them a great desire
that characterized the first of the Chinese “parallel to do business and values
years of migration. district” is certainly more of dedication to work that
The Chinese textile of an effect than a cause of are unknown to many
phenomenon in Prato the general decline of the Italians today. If they
is generally considered sector. In fact, although The contem- find an environment that
negative. Prato is seen as some sub-suppliers Chi- allows them to work and
“invaded” by the Chinese nese companies in Prato
porary emer- produce, the can do very
who do not respect Ital- may have competed with gence of the well for themselves and
ian laws and which mark pre-existing companies, for the city. On the con-
a decline of the golden the effect of this com- Chinese “par- trary we continue to give
days of Prato textile
industry. This phenom-
petition has been zero if
not positive on the whole
allel district” is an image of the city (and
Italy) as a country where
enon is also described in sector. Italian companies certainly more work does not lead to
many chronicles, such as have had to deal with prosperity, the rules apply
the story of the Italian weak and volatile demand of an effect only to stupid people and
author Edoardo Nesi and with the opening of than a cause legality does not count,
who was awarded with
Premio Strega in 2001
for his novel “History of
my people”. On the other
hand, between 2000 and
2013, the number of tex-
markets to new partici-
pants, factors that have
very little to do with the
Chinese community in
Prato. To date, Chinese
companies in Prato are
of the general
decline of the
sector.
‘‘ the new residents will end
up aggravating our ills.
The fact that the Chinese
businessmen in Prato
managed to create a
successful production dis-
tile companies in Prato probably one of the most trict, and they managed
was practically halved, dynamic components of to do so also by having
and Chinese companies the city’s economy. They a “casual” attitude to-
are partially filling this are companies that pro- for a more multiethnic wards laws and regula-
gap, creating opportuni- duce at very low, “light” and more integrated tions, can we interpret
ties for Italians as well. costs, often based on the future Italy? this as a sign of unsus-
According to data from very intense work of ex- The high percentage of tainability of the Italian
the Iris Institute between tended family units, often foreign residents in the legal and tax model?
October 2010 and June operating without any city is often seen as a Can you be competitive
2015, there are 355 regulations, aggressively degradation and incon- in Italy while respecting
Italian workers hired aiming at exports (in venience for the citizens, 100% laws and regula-
by Chinese in Prato and Eastern European markets who in most cases have tions?
the province that equals and other). These com- seen their quality of life The case of these Chinese
decrease. However, I
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
companies is interesting high labor costs without producing costs a lot, but with the economic fun-
in my opinion because it having high productivity. with low productivity. To damentals of the country
offers good examples for a With the entrance in the use a brutal description in terms of productivity
debate on the Italian pro- Euro zone, twenty years of the situation, we work and human capital stock.
ductive system, starting ago we made a bet on little and badly. Chinese The dilemma, difficult
from the post war eco- the future of the country. companies show that a but not avoidable, which
nomic history. After the The logic of entering the way of doing business is posed to the Italians
spiral of growth, the cost Euro was to start a path of today in Italy is to live for the future is basically
of labor started in the 70s, investment and specializa- with low productivity this: continue to work as
the country reacted with tion that would have led and lower costs. They we work, burdened by an
periodic devaluations, Italy to have an advanced do it primarily by work- often incapable govern-
which made export arti- production, capable of ing longer and longer ment, work as hard as the
ficially competitive at the producing high added but often unfortunately Chinese forgetting about
price of more expensive value. Basically we had to also not respecting rules holidays, protections and
imports. We were able to learn to work better. This (especially at work). You our rights, or really make
stay on international mar- transformation did not can have a purely re- a leap in quality and work
kets by “taxing” the rest occur, except for a few ex- pressive approach to this smarter, in companies that
of the country through amples of excellence that phenomenon, impose all invest and innovate, with
the increase in the cost however do not represent the rules and shut these a government that helps
of imports. This kept us the entire system. We companies. Or you can the production systems.
floating for a while, but therefore find ourselves start thinking about costs
the fact was that we could in the disastrous position imposed by legislation
not be a country with of being a country where and their compatibility
soluzioni informatiche
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
ONGETTA
The twisting of silk
The Ongetta products are 2 Growing demand for development. As far as

Interview with aimed at the high fashion innovation in products the point 3 is concerned
Andrea Ongetta – sector. What features (increasingly tight delivery
Ongetta Srl does the luxury market 3 Increasingly tight deliv- times), our response was
Curated by Luigi have today, how has it ery times directed towards greater
Torriani evolved in recent years All three factors have flexibility in the company
and how has the proposal made our work more structure and towards the
of Ongetta changed - in difficult, and our com- development of a capacity
accordance with this pany has changed in for dialogue and collabo-
Treviso evolution? order to respond better ration in a short time with
T
to these problems by customers, in a context -
he luxury sec- remaining competitive the current one - in which
tor, which is our on the market. As for scheduling is almost
sector of reference, points 1 and 2 (raising impossible.
has evolved considerably the required quality and Textile industry has been
in recent years, along increasing demand for historically among the
three fundamental lines of innovation in products) most polluting industri-
change: our response has been the al sectors in the world,
fact that we increased in- along with petrochem-
1 Raising the quality vestments in research and icals. In recent years -
requested by clients
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
however - much work has It is clear that those who the Italian political – to foreign competitors,
gone into minimizing the have started to invest in economic situation which and this is not the fault of
impact on the environ- reducing environmental is complex and marked Italian entrepreneurs, who
ment, and the issues of impact will be favored by deep problems and actually keep our country
sustainability and ecolo- compared to those who not simple to deal with. standing with their skills
gy are being increasingly will have to improvise I limit myself to only and commitments, but
discussed and taken into company polices that un- this consideration: I am because of problems in
consideration. Ongetta til this moment had been absolutely convinced that the economic system and
is among the companies totally avoided. the Italian entrepreneurial politics. One thing is clear:
that has joined the Detox Ongetta is the main class is better than the po- In order to do business in
campaign of Greenpeace, sponsor of the SIC58 litical one. Doing business Italy today and keep the
and has obtained the Squadra Corse, a mo- in Italy is very difficult: profits it is necessary to
GOTS certification for torbike team founded every day we lose compet- internationalize and be
the production of organic by Paolo Simoncelli to itiveness in comparison present on the global mar-
‘‘
yarns. From the econom- remember his son Marco, ket. This is something we
ic point of view, what who died tragically in have been trying to do for
impact does this kind of 2011. Why did you years now, successfully and
commitment have? Can choose to carry on this with important results.
ecology have advantages sponsorship? In addition
for the business in the to motorcycling what are Companies
textile industry? other marketing channels
Let me clarify one thing (trade shows, web) that
that are eco-sus-
immediately: Our invest- are most important to tainable will
ments on the ecological you?
front are linked to the fact Our commitment to the be rewarded
that we strongly believe
in respecting the environ-
SIC58 Squadra Corse
motorcycling team comes
on the market.
ment, and they don’t cor- from a personal acquain- It is clear that
respond to any economic
calculation. This is also
tance with Marco Simon-
celli, who we sponsored those who have BIO
started to invest
O
because it is evident that at the time he was racing
in the short term, mini- in 125. We have seen him N G E T-
mizing the environmental grow, we have become in reducing TA SRL
impact is much more of very fond of his family
a financial burden than a over time, and after his
environmental - A histor-
ic Italian company
benefit, and determines tragic death, we wanted impact will be with a production
costs that are not immedi- to continue, along with
ately offset by an increase Marco’s father, to invest favored com- facility in Ponte di
Piave (Treviso) and
in revenues. Having said
this, I am convinced that
in a project that is a sort
of school or academy
pared to those
commercial offices
in the medium and long for children, and young who will have in Fino Mornasco
term, our ecological poli- people, with the hope that
cy will also bring consid- among these youngsters to improvise (CO), Ongetta Srl
is one of the world's
erable economic benefits, would emerge a new great company po-
because the mentality and champion like Marco. leading companies in
sensitivity towards this Why do you think Italy lices that until the twisting of silk
topic is changing, respect
this moment
for the environment is
considered fundamental
by an increasing number
of people, and there-
fore companies that are
eco-sustainable will be
is struggling to engage
in an economic recovery
that is already showing
in other countries? Is it
an entrepreneurial prob-
lem or is it a political
problem?
had been totally
avoided.
‘‘ yarn. For some years
now also Ongetta
distributes fabrics
silk, linen, polyester
viscose and mixed
fabrics.
rewarded on the market. I do not want to go into
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
DRAGONI–Fabrics made in Italy since 1929

Interview with Michele Azimonti – CEO Azienda Foderami Dragoni
Curated by Luigi Torriani
glecting more fashionable customers are clothing
or witty effects. We offer production companies.
fabrics that enhance the The web remains however
natural and raw appear- an important communi-
ance of cotton as well as cation channel with our
articles produced using clients, sharing informa-
organic cotton, prepared tion and updates, or as
and dyed with the most a way of simplifying the
environmentally friendly exchange of information
techniques and chemistry. and data. As for your
We tried to offer crisp and question, although we
The Dragoni is one of the export outside Italy? fresh fabrics for summer do monitor with atten-
leading Italian compa- The Dragoni exports shirts, while for a female tion all progress made in
nies in manufacturing throughout Europe, clientele we produced soft information technology
pocket covers, trouser the United States and and sagging fabrics. In ad- field and we listen to our
and bust belts, offering Far East. However, the dition we offer: wavy fin- customers’ requests, we
also fabrics for shirts, Italian market is our main ishing, seersucker effects, believe that for us today
casual wear and trousers. market, where quality and anti – drip eco finishes to an e-commerce portal is
How has your production service match the needs give customers a sugges- not an ideal solution for
evolved over the years of the most important tion and make our offer as our needs and characteris-
and what are the char- Brands. complete as possible. tics of our business.
acteristics and strengths Spring/Summer 2018 Let’s talk about market-
that distinguish you from and Fall/Winter 2018 – ing: how much do tradi-
tional advertising and
competitors? 2019 collections: what
trade mechanisms and BIO
O
are the main trends and
ver the years the fairs count for you and
A
news?
company has of- As for the linings, the how much does web & z i e n d a
fered an import- range of printed fabrics digital marketing count? Foderami
ant stock service, flexibil- has increased, with classic Also in the textile sector Dragoni,
‘‘
ity and customization of designs but without ne- there are companies that
the products guaranteed have implemented or
founded in 1929 in
by efficient suppliers and are implementing a B2B Gallarate (VA), is
above all by our own and / or B2C e-commerce one of the most im-
dyeing production unit. portal. Is that a possi- portant textile com-
The company obtained The company bility that you would panies in Italy today.
important certificates and consider? What is your
certifications that allow obtained im- opinion on the matter?
it to offer and work with
fabrics that comply with
portant cer- By offering a product
where many features are
the main ecological and tificates and perceptible only by touch,
technical regulations, as and where technical
well as requests of the certifications aspects are often more Gallarate
that allow it
most demanding custom-
ers.
Foderami Dragoni ex-
ports in Europe, Canada
and the United States.
How important is the
to offer and
work with
fabrics
‘‘ important than purely vi-
sual ones, we believe that
traditional channels, such
as trade fairs and a sales
network of efficient agents
are still essential to sales,
Italian market for you especially for a company
today and how much the like ours, where the final
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
Dino Zoli Textile

A GREAT COMPANY IN FORLÌ
Dino Zoli Textile pro- are constantly looking to good relations with all
Interview with duces in Italy and in for new markets for our stakeholders.
Monica Zoli, China and distributes all products, and we are cur- Today the Dino Zoli
Curated by Luigi over the world from the rently trying to enter the Group – with DZ Engi-
Torriani Italian headquarters and Motorhome sector (cara- neering – is also involved
from the office Dino Zoli vans and mobile homes) in artistic lighting, video
Brasil in Brazil. What and we are successfully control and integrated
are your flagship prod- collecting first results systems for large events.
ucts and what markets from the development of What are the most in-
are the most interesting innovative outdoor textile teresting works you have
for you? collections. Our philos- signed in this context?
W
ophy is flexibility, which There are many really
e mainly pushes us to develop new unique works we did,
address the organizational solutions and our particularity in
Forlì Italian and and products to adapt this case is to adapt each
European upholstered quickly to market changes studio to the requests of
furniture industry and and even anticipate them. a project. Internationally
distribute both in Italy Other strong points are the most representative
and abroad. In order to the constant attention to project signed by DZ
differentiate ourselves the customer service and Engineering is the lighting
as much as possible we
17

DATATEX MAGAZINE
and CCTV system of the artists you have hosted The Dino Zoli Group Food that will select the
Singapore F1 city circuit. and what are the plans is also active today in Italian excellences togeth-
Fascinating and worthy for the future? the food& beverage er with a group of experts
of mention – among our The Foundation was born sector, with I Sabbioni and export them all over
many works – are also from the desire of Dino agricultural company the world. The criteria of
the lighting of Castel del Zoli to create an institu- that produces – in the Horeca or GDO distri-
Monte, Andria, Le Due tional place in which host hills between Forlì and bution will be followed in
Basiliche of Siponto, with the activities related to art Faenza – extra virgin any case.
the extraordinary work of and its promotion, having olive oil and Romagna In recent years Italy
the young artist Edoardo art always been one of Sangiovese DOC wines. is going through an
Tresoldi (indicated by his many passions. The What are your plans in economic, social and
Forbes 2017 list among creativity that character- terms of distribution of political crisis that is not
the most influential of izes the companies of the these products? I Sab- easy to solve. What do
the world in the category Dino Zoli Group is in this bioni’s production is you think are the root
under 30), Galla Placidia way well represented by destined to remain niche causes of this weaknesses
in Ravenna and the Crypt the Foundation. Major ex- or you intend to expand and what can be done to
of Otranto. hibitions such as “Baldes- in this field? restart the situation and
DZ Group is also art sari and Depero – Futur- The agricultural company grow again?
and culture: the Dino ism”, “Mario Schifano I Sabbioni produces high How do you say? “I thank
Zoli Foundation, based – End of Trasmissions”, quality wines and oil. The you for the trust you have
in Forlì, is a museum of and last year’s “Musta- project has been entrusted given me” when you asked
contemporary art with pha Sabbagh – Made to a capillary distribution me such a demanding
spaces dedicated to exhi- in Italy”, alternate with network throughout Italy. question. The change is
bitions, interdisciplinary exhibitions by local and We distribute our wines bound to happen sooner
events, debates and book emerging artists, among also on foreign markets or later, but it would be
presentations. How is the which “Massimo Sansav- that follow the same better if it was confront-
Foundation born? What ini – Touroperator”, with criteria. For a large food ed with interventions at
are the most important his sculptures made of & beverage distribution a various levels and with
wood from the hulls of new company was born, commitment of everyone
BIO the shipwrecked migrants the Dino Italian Wine & in order to handle it with
‘‘
in the Mediterranean, and less suffering possible.
D
the last inaugurated on Although some penalizing
INO February 24 “Silvia Bigi – features of our economic,
ZOLI The Tree of Milk”, young political and fiscal system
GROUP – artist who looks at the Our philoso- are indisputable, I believe
Italian entrepreneur- subject of gender identity,
raising reflections on the
phy is flexibili- that there are already
resources to make the
ial excellence, the
role of women in contem- ty, which push- situation better. Italy is
Dino Zoli Group porary society. Starting an incredible country as
consists of twelve from June we will host the es us to develop well as its people, and it
companies, operat- exhibition of the works new organiza- would be great if we could
ing in very different of the 70 artists selected all work together with
by ARTEAMCUP with tional solutions mutual trust in our daily
sectors. Among
whom we collaborate and activities starting from all
them the leader is we will have two prizes:
and products that we have and all the
Dino Zoli Textile, purchase of the winner’s to adapt quick- things we are good at.
work and artist’s resi-
founded in 1972
and its core business
is the production
and distribution of
fabrics for furniture.
dence at the Dino Zoli
Textile for the realization
of a work connected to
the textile material. For
September 2018 we are
working on an ambitious
ly to market
changes and
even anticipate
them.
‘‘
event and for the moment
we prefer to keep it secret.
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
Taroni
THE ART OF SILK IN COMO
After years of crisis, before the global crisis ue around 50%, while
Interview with those who like Taroni in 2007. Chinese silk the silk weaving had a
Michele Canepa, remained on the mar- had become increasingly decrease of about 18%
Curated by Luigi ket have shown that requested (there were even because it was already in
Torriani they have skills and large stocks of shirts made crisis since the nineties.
capacities. What are the of Chinese silk in shops, At that time I was the
characteristics that allow which became a total vice president of Canepa,
an Italian company to failure because unlike the big family business,
remain highly driven cotton shirts, they shrink then in 1999 I decided to
Como in such an internation- after washing. I almost leave and start again with
alized and competitive immediately pointed that an individual adventure
context like today’s? out, that they would not and I bought the Taroni
T
become a success, but from Giampaolo Porlez-
hose working in no one listened to me). za. I went from working
the silk industry If we make a compari- with 700 employees to a
have already gone son between 2001 and smaller reality, with only
through a very difficult 2016 we will see that in a hundred employees, but
period in the 1990s. The Italy the cotton weaving with a long history and
highest import points of and wool weaving have high quality products.
fabrics from the East were had a decrease in val- In the last few years, my
in 1994 and 1995, long
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
son Maximilian started Italian capital of silk (the ion Awards, the “green fact. But men’s fashion
working with me and remaining 20% is divided Oscars” of fashion. is very rich, and you can
his work is very good. between 8% in Lyon, 6% It is rare for a man today see this especially during
Turnovers are growing, in England and small pro- to wear a tie (except for fashion shows. Some
and we are able to carry ductions in Switzerland, work purposes), an ele- accessories are at risk, not
on our business based on Germany and Spain). The gant hat, or other acces- men’s fashion in general.
tradition and innovation. silk industry therefore is sories. What can be done If you, instead, mean that
At the time we were the still strategic and fun- to raise the awareness of men dress sporty more
first textile company in damental today for our the men’s fashion? often during the day, you
the Como area to have country and Taroni tries I am frankly amazed by are right, and it is very
a website, and today we to be representative of this this concern, because noticeable – for example
also have an e-commerce sector. fashion and clothing – in the United States. It
for B2B and B2C. At the Taroni is a state- of –art evolve, and this is per- is also true that the US
same time – other than company from the ecolog- fectly normal. Certain men who are sporty and
modern machines - we ical point of view. What accessories are becoming prefer comfort during the
kept in function the old steps have you taken in more of a niche and this day – then dress in an el-
artisan machines from the recent years in terms of can be seen in the cases egant way in the evening,
50s, for luxury prêt-à- ecology and sustainabil- you mentioned – the hat perhaps without a tie,
porter collections and for ity? and the tie, which are but with very interesting
particular dresses. We also We have committed our- still worn today, but in jackets and shirts. I speak
had a book published by selves radically to trying particular moments and naturally of elegant men;
Rizzoli entitled “Taroni. to clean our production, occasions, have lost their there are many people
The fabric that dreams are to make our production daily use that they had who always dress badly,
made of ” in which we cel- cycle as sustainable as before. You may be feeling but this applies equally to
ebrate the history of our possible throughout the sad about it, but it is a men and women.
‘‘
company and the Como supply chain. In 2014 What is your opinion on
textile industry. Despite we obtained the interna- the serious difficulties
all difficulties encountered tional certification GOTS that the Italian economy
since the nineties, the silk (Global Organic Textile has been experiencing
made in Italy still reaches Standard), which guaran- in recent years? What
80% of European pro- tees that our products are Como is the are, in your opinion, the
duction and Como is the ecologically and ethically causes and the character-
sustainable in every step, Italian capi- istics of this crisis?
from breeding silkworms
tal of silk (the Maybe someone won’t
BIO (which takes place in areas
with organic cultivation) remaining
like my answer but I will
tell you exactly what I
T
to the reeling phases, spin- think: as long as those
aroni
ning, dyeing and weaving. 20% is divided who steal don’t go to jail
S.p.a.- One
of the
In 2016 we joined Green- between 8% (and remain there) our
peace Detox campaign, country will continue to
oldest textile com- which calls for the ban on in Lyon, 6% limp. Italy today lives of
panies in Como, hazardous chemicals from forgiveness, of amnesties,
all production cycles. This
in England of evasions and tax frauds
founded in 1880,
Taroni is one of the
ecological commitment – and small pro- that are not opposed
in which we totally believe with adequate severity
leading suppliers – has been hard to imple- ductions in in terms of punishment.
of silk fabrics to ment and very expensive Switzerland, At the same time, public
the most important
fashion houses in
Italy and around the
world. It is owned
by the Canepa fami-
for us, but has already led
to an important recog-
nition: on 24 September
2017, at the Teatro alla
Scala in Milan, my son
Maximilian was awarded
Germany and
Spain).
‘‘ spending is high, wastes
are endless and everything
is more expensive than
in other countries. I have
two houses in California,
I lived there for a while
ly since 1999. as Sustainable Producer of and I know the mix of
the Green Carpet Fash- freedom and respect for
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
the rules in America. where rules exist and system more efficient, here to change, and therefore
Those who break the law people respect them, it is you save money by evad- the bad habits continue to
or commit tax frauds go a country where there is ing. We waste and cheat; exist. My considerations
to jail; here it all ends up ecological culture and re- no wonder why they look on the matter are very sad,
with chit chat and wine. I cycling saves a lot of mon- down upon us. And I will but this is how it is.
also know how Germany ey. In other countries they tell you this also: in my
works; this is a nation save money by making opinion there is no will
The new plant maintenance module

DATATEX
Curated by Paolo De Gobbi (Technical Programmer - Datatex)
T
NOW is the ERP man- he purpose of this The prompt recording of to the needs. As the
agement software owned module is sim- activities and related costs new plant maintenance
by Datatex, and is the ple: to be able to makes it possible to obtain module is fully integrated
best-selling vertical IT record the activities and an assessment of the with the ERP, you have
solution for textile in- the deadlines related to efficiency and reactivity of the possibility to see the
udstry in the world today. the maintenance of the the interventions, and is situation of the spare parts
In one of the latest releas- machines, thus being able able to offer a vision of the in the warehouse in real
es of NOW, an important to schedule at best the actual situation compared time, you can immediately
new feature has been available resources and to the planned, thus unload the necessary parts,
introduced: the module always keep under control giving the possibility to and you can start the
for the management of what needs to be done and assess whether the planned purchases of the material
plant maintenance. when it needs to be done. budgets have been adapted at the same moment in
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
which one notices that a part is missing. In the requested purchases, as well as in the discharges of material, it is always
possible to know in relation to which maintenance intervention these purchases have been made and by which user.
(Fig. 1)
This model clearly shows that the new NOW module covers three types of maintenance:
1. Extraordinary maintenance (the maintenance requests are entered by the users, are taken over by the scheduling
manager, are converted into maintenance order and are then assigned to the maintenance technician).
2. Preventive Maintenance (maintenance activities are defined within indicated deadlines, the system automatical-
ly creates a schedule of maintenance activities, and the activities are finally transformed into maintenance order and
assigned to the maintenance technicians)
3. Inspections (vengono definite le rilevazioni da effettuare, specificando la frequenza e i valori di riferimento e dando
successivamente la possibilità di immettere i valori rilevati)
In defining the activities it is possible to link the spare parts and the type of maintenance technicians that will be in-
volved. Furthermore, the planned costs of spare parts and maintenance personnel can also be defined. (Fig. 2)
In defining the activities it is possible to link the spare parts and the type of maintenance technicians that will be in-
volved. Furthermore, the planned costs of spare parts and maintenance personnel can also be defined.
(Fig. 2)
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
The definition of the machines has been structured so as to give the possibility to choose whether to build a hierarchy
between the machine and its components (Fig. 3)
(Fig. 3)
or define its components in a hierarchy set at three levels (Fig. 4).
(Fig. 4)
With a hierarchical definition of the machine - components the maintenance will be promptly linked to a specific
part of the machine, while with the three level hierarchical definition the maintenance will be assigned to the generic
machine and the interested part can be specified in a non-obligatory way.
The maintenance requests and the scheduling of the interventions must be approved by the managers and this takes
place through the activities carried out on maintenance orders.
We tried to show the management in a simple way by creating a dashboard (Fig. 5) in which:
• The manager has the possibility to assign activities and change priorities
• The maintenance technician can always see the activities assigned to him and can indicate the information relevant to
the intervention (when it started, when it is finished, any notes, etc ...)
• You can enter the real costs of the interventions, so you can then compare them with the planned.
• Both warehouse discharges of the spare parts and the purchase requests for missing pieces can be generated in case of
lack.
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
(Fig. 5)
Meeting the needs of the market, we in the Datatex laboratory are developing also the mobile version for use on
mobile devices (Tablet), with specific functions for recording data and progress status by maintainers. In doing so, we
try to simplify the functions involved as much as possible, with the aim of increasing productivity and improving the
usability of functions on devices with smaller screens.
To facilitate data control and to provide an overall picture of the situation, the new NOW module also contains anal-
ysis and summary printouts, which are used to assess the workload of maintenance personnel and their efficiency. A
comparison between the planned data, both of duration and cost, with those actually registered in the system, is very
useful for monitoring the situation and allows the appropriate measures to be taken to achieve better results in terms of
productivity and cost reduction.
24

DATATEX MAGAZINE
MARCHI AND FILDI GROUP

The great Italian yarn industry
Interview with Massimo Marchi, CEO Marchi & Fildi Spa
Curated by Luigi Torriani
Marchi & Fildi was diversified the markets, Andorno Associati (yarn
founded in 2007 as a we have internationalized and tops dyeing), in 1997
BIO merger of two important and we have been able we bought Afitex Interna-
textile companies in Biel- to follow the inputs by tional (a Carpi based com-
M
A RC H I la area and was further adapting to a market that pany specialized in yarns
strengthened through has changed significant- for straight knitting) and
A N D the acquisition of other ly in recent years (two in 1999 Ettore Barberis &
FILDI brands. How important years ago, among other C. (combed wool spinning
GROUP – Tex- is it today to increase things, we launched a B2B integrated with a dyeing
tile company with one’s own resources and e-commerce portal – shop. plant); in 2000 we ac-
dimensions to be com- marchifildi.com – that quired a stake in Superfios
the headquarters in
petitive in facing the works very well and is giv-
Biella and a world- challenges of the global ing us great satisfactions).
wide sales network, market? The history of our com-
T
Marchi & Fildi was pany begins in the Sixties, Biella
he dimensional when Eugenio Dissegna
founded in 2007 as factor is certainly founded the Fildi (1965)
a merger of Filatura fundamental today and Giovanni Marchi
Marchi and Fildi. because the complexity of founded the Filatura Mar-
Today the company the market requires very chi (1969). In the Nineties
heterogeneous skills that and early 2000s, Filatura
has 450 employees
smaller realities are not Marchi increased its
and a turnover of able to sustain. We con- resources through series of
over 60 million euros . tinue to exist because we acquisitions: in 1993 we
have expanded, we have bought Tessiana – Tessili
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
Textil (Brazilian spinning synthetic yarns and of image, and the Biella We opened it in 2009 in
based in Recife); in 2001 operates in the sectors district remains one of the Cerrione (in the province
we acquired the com- of circular knitwear, historic districts of Made of Biella), winning the
mercial package of Filber hosiery, fancy yarns, in Italy. We have import- Greenfield Award for the
(open end spinning in straight knitting, weav- ant relationships with the best investment in the
Bergamo specialized in the ing for clothing, furnish- territory, and we collab- Piedmont region. We
production of flame retar- ing yarns and technical orate with professional work in collaboration
dant yarns), and in 2005 yarns. What are your schools (Higher Technical with the Department of
the commercial know most important custom- Textile Institute) and with Materials Science and
– how of Esafil (worsted ers and what are the universities (Politecnico Chemical Engineering
spinning wool). In 2007 most profitable markets di Torino). The crisis in (Dismic) of the Politecni-
there was the great leap in for you today? our area has been tough co di Torino and we carry
quality and the approach I always prefer not to and we all felt it, many out tests to develop in-
to the current corporate name names. Our cus- companies have closed novative textile solutions.
structure: with the merger tomers are all important. down, many have lost In particular, in the field
of Filatura Marchi and We export and sell all over their jobs, and often in of technical yarns there
Fildi, the Marchi & Fildi the world, but the most Biella families you could is continuous innova-
Group was founded. And significant markets for us hear to children being said tion, and we need people
in the following years are in Europe and in the “do not go to work in the specifically and exclusively
the investments did not Mediterranean area. textile industry.” The par- dedicated to research.
stop: in 2008 we acquired Marchi & Fildi today adox today is that we have Then there is another
the Badin Sartel brand is a multinational a shortage of professional subject that is essential in
(French spinning leader company that sells all figures for our industry, so our sector today: sustain-
in the production of dyed over the world but has contrary to what is being ability. Textile industry
viscose yarns); in 2008 – maintained the large said – there can be great is historically the second
through a joint venture production facility in opportunities for young most polluting industry
with the Turkish group Biella, an important and people who want to study in the world after petro-
Abalioglu we founded historic textile district in to work in the textile chemicals, but the things
Filidea, a Turkish spinning Italy. What is your link industry. It is necessary to can change, and ecology
mill based in Denizli; in to the territory and what change mentality and try is an area where we have
2010 we acquired the Itala is the added value that to work as best as we can invested and we continue
Ellena brand (spinning) the Biella based brand so that we can allow the to invest a lot. We have
and in 2012 we bought can still give to yarns and territory – and the textile solar panels in all our
a new fully automated fabrics? district to grow. offices, we have reduced
dyeing plant. We now It is clear that the fact of Marchi & Fildi has a re- energy consumption by
have the right dimensions being present outside Italy search and development 30% with new machinery,
to be competitive on the today is a winning key, division that continues a and we use 40% less water
market. It is clear how- for at least two reasons: path of constant modern- (that comes from our
ever that being big is not the possibility of lowering ization and innovation wells) than the traditional
enough, another import- production costs and the of products. What are dyeing facilities in our sec-
ant factor today is speed. possibility to have greater the frontiers of research tor. We also have a brand
It was once said that the speed and greater oppor- and what are the new of eco – sustainable yarns
big fish ate the small one, tunities for intercepting features in your offer? – Ecotec – which is 100%
but today more and more customers from other Thank you for this ques- Made in Italy and is based
often it is the fast fish that countries and other geo- tion because it allows me exclusively on the reuse
eats the slower one. The graphical areas. That said, to talk about a topic that and transformation of pre
difficulty is being able to I believe that our presence I particularly care about. – dyed cotton textile cut-
reconcile size and com- in Biella continues to One of the smartest tings from the packaging,
plexity on one side and have importance and can investments we have made therefore pre – consumer
speed on the other, and still be a strong added is opening the research into yarns. The Ecotec
that is exactly what we try value today. In the textile and development center. project started in 2003,
to do. industry, presenting itself It cost us a lot (3 million in the last years we are
Marchi & Fildi produces as an Italian company has euros to set it up), but “pushing” it a lot and we
natural, artificial and a strong value in terms it is our forge of ideas. have also created a specific
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
web site dedicated to it return to grow again? necessary to lower the costs the second and final consid-
(ecotecproject.com). With My personal opinion is and simplify bureaucracy eration I want to make – it
Ecotec Smart Cotton we this: the root cause of the and taxation, but in order to is necessary to invest more in
offer yarns that maintain crisis is ultimately self- do that it is necessary to take young people, who can bring
the quality and the chem- ishness. Italy needs deep political decisions that are new and fresh ideas and
ical safety and that allow transformations, we all incompatible with a crony- visions, greater speed and
record savings compared know that but everyone ism and welfarism that are can overcome established
to the production of wants others to contrib- rooted and very difficult to but obsolete schemes. In the
conventional cotton: up ute and continues look amend. I will add a couple last years, in our company
to 77.9% less in the use after their own interests of final considerations. The we have hired many young
of water, up to 53.6% less first. There has been no first is that we must put once people and we intend to
in the CO2 emissions and industrial politics able to again the manufacturing stay on that path. To involve
up to 56.6% less in the put the companies in a system in the center of our young people, entrepreneurs
consumption of energy position to be competi- interests. The manufacturing and managers must show
resources. tive, we have the highest system is still second most passion and dedication, they
Italy is going through a energy costs in Europe, important in Europe despite must show that they are in
phase of deep economic, we have a bureaucratic the politics and thanks to love with their work and
social and political crisis. and tax system that is too entrepreneurs and private their company. The example
What do you think are burdensome, a system that investors. We don’t have big of those who lead a company
the root causes of these I would almost define the natural resources, we have is fundamental for those who
difficulties and what exact antithesis of what an industry and tourism, if we work there.
could be the elements efficient and competitive lose the industry it is over for
that we can improve to system should be like. It is us. Moreover – and this is
INFORMATION SYSTEMS AND

WEB SOLUTIONS FOR TEXTILE-FASHION
www.datatex.com
27

DATATEX MAGAZINE
BERTO
Textile industry since 1887
What are the most core business. We have b) Flexibility of produc-

Interview with important steps in the been and still are a very tion cycles (the challenge
Flavio Berto, history of the company dynamic company, and is to be able to engineer
Curated by Luigi you lead and what are we consider ourselves the the collection well and be
Torriani the characteristics and artisans of Denim. Our able to always serve the
strengths that distinguish mission is to create prod- customer, no matter their
you from competitors? ucts 100% Made in Italy size and quantity of their
T
with a proactive attitude orders)
he company was and a strong focus on c) The continuous evolu-
founded in 1887 quality. Our strength lies tion (we always try to offer
as a weaving in the commitment and new innovative solutions
Padova specialized in the creation ability to create guidelines and we don’t reject any
of sails for the boats in in the customer’s imagi- possible customers and
Chioggia and Venice, and nation, to customize the new markets).
then evolved over the years product and offer high – You belong to the fourth
through manufacturing level assistance along these generation of a family
apparel, clothing, home three directives: of businessmen. Which
furnishings and shirts. All a) The Service (supply the path led you to develop
of this until the 60s when fabric in the least amount the skills and abilities to
we entered the world of of time possible) successfully lead the fami-
Denim, which is still our
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
ly business in a difficult opened a company there ing industry the barriers future investments and
period for the Italian and still today he lives to owning a business are help our country grow
economy? in Asia and continues quite a few and it is clear even more?
I was a bad student in to grow his business. I that a girl or a boy that Those who think that the
high school, but even repeat, I was only twenty have good ideas 99% of Italy’s main problem are
those years and those seven at that time. My the cases do not have the “greedy” businessmen
experiences served me father summoned me one possibility to carry them and those who “want to
later. Then my father told day and suddenly told me: out. They can’t just buy speculate” don’t under-
me: “Ether you graduate “Your turn has come, you thousands of meters of stand much and don’t
the university in five years, will now be in charge of fabric and start their own deserve even an answer. In
but if you spend the next Berto.” He left the Mani- business. We help young Italy today it has become
ten years in there doing fattura Corona (the other people with good ideas very hard to maintain a
nothing it is better to family company) to my enter the world of fashion, manufacturing company,
start the “Berto Univer- sister, and Berto Industria we help them by giving Italian businessmen can
sity” right away. I chose Tessile ended up in my them material, by finding be easily compared with
the second option and hands. I threw myself, I suppliers in the supply athletes who have to run
worked as an employee for attended a university mas- chain and promote their 100m race with a ballast
five years, in all company ter’s degree in Vicenza and creations in industry trade attached to their feet
sectors (from carding to one in Bocconi and tried fairs and on social media. heavier than their body
spinning to finishing). to learn how to become In a strongly globalized weight. It is practically
In the meantime I did a an entrepreneur. I natural- world in which the impossible to beat other
three month course in the ly continued to speak to tendency to industrial athletes that don’t have
United States that allowed my father and to discuss delocalization is ever this kind of difficulty. The
me to become a cotton the company’s problems. more accentuated, Berto businessmen who succeed
classifier. Then I lead the We remained on excellent remains 100% Made and resist show great
company to become ISO terms, but it is clear that in Italy and maintains qualities of tenacity and
certified, I joined the my responsibilities have its links with the pro- practically need to invent
commercial area in the increased enormously. I duction area in Padua. the impossible to stay on
early 2000s, and at that still continue to give my What is your opinion their feet. Having said
point – when I was twenty best today and take train- on this matter, to move this, I will continue with
seven – came the turning ing courses to improve production outside Italy? our work here in Italy, in
point. My father decided myself and keep myself Is it the politics that is our factory in Bovolenta,
to go to Bangladesh, he updated. I also do a lot of making our country less in the province of Padua.
sport, and I think that it attractive for investments It is a challenge but there
has given me important or businessmen who with is also a rational motif –
BIO benefits in psychological their (legitimate) choices and not just the emo-
and character terms. are weakening the Ital- tional one – to remain in
B
ERTO With the Berto for Young ian system? Among those Italy, a motif based on 2
Talents project you give who decide to invest fundamental pillars. The
TEXTILE the opportunity to new elsewhere are also the first is based on the belief
INDUSTRY talents to carry out ideas people who did this as a that if you want to offer
– Founded in 1887, and proposals. What life choice – like your fa- quality products and ser-
with the headquar- does the project consist of ther Giuseppe Berto, who vices you must be close to
and what satisfactions is opened a textile company your customer. My father
ters in Bovolenta, in
it giving you? in Bangladesh, lives there follows the Asian market
the province of Pad- The Berto for Young Tal- for twenty years now and from Bangladesh, I follow
ua, Berto is among ents project is a gamble. collaborates with the the European one from
the leading Italian The world today is chang- Xaverian missionaries. Italy and in the future,
companies in the ing at the speed of light On the other hand, oth- if we decide for example
and the history teaches us ers are driven solely by to focus on the Ameri-
production of denim
that our interlocutors and business motives. What is can market, we should
fabrics and cotton examples of success are your opinion on the mat- consider producing on the
fabrics for clothing constantly changing. Yet ter? What could be the spot in America. I know
and furniture. in the textile and cloth- actions that could attract very well that today it
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
pays off more to import at must apply to Chinese or of couple of consultants but also succeed in antic-
a low price and sell with American companies that and salesmen and millions ipating new trends and
great margins rather than want to export in Eu- of unemployed? I would tendencies in advance).
produce directly in Italy, rope; If I want to export like you to rediscover the I would like to add a final
but if you offer high qual- in China and have to pride of the companies consideration: global-
ity customized products undergo strict rules at the and real factories that ization makes sense if it
like we do, you need to customs, Chinese compa- carry on the Made in reconciles with localiza-
be close to your customer. nies should be subjected Italy and that despite the tion, with quality, with
The second pillar is based to the same rules and not difficulties still succeed variety and with person-
on market timing and be left to freely export in in holding up high our alization. Otherwise it
transportation and stock Europe without any regu- country. makes no sense. Today
costs. If the goods you im- lations, placing products How have the collections we see this trend in the
port arrive late, you won’t that maybe have been evolved in recent years? lifestyle of many people:
be able to make a collec- produced by children What are the character- we are moving away from
tion, no one will buy form or polluting beyond all istics of the new 2019 mass markets to custom-
you anymore and there is limits; if these regulations collections and what are ized products. Just think
a high risk of obsolescence don’t apply to everyone the news and trends in about the food, where the
because fashion changes it becomes difficult to the upcoming years? large organized super-
rapidly and I ask: Can you compete on the global It is difficult to identify a markets do not grow as
afford these kind of risks? market). Finally, I would general trend, but there they did before, while the
If you want to sell quality like to add a personal are at least three import- request for local produce
products and want to sell consideration regarding ant characteristics that has doubled and contin-
in Europe you have to education and the vision have become the base of ues to grow. Or in the
be in Europe. Personally, of the world. For more our products today and fashion, where the world
as I said, I don’t believe than twenty years they have become increasingly of “tailor – made” is being
that there is an end for have been telling us (in relevant in recent years: rediscovered. How can
manufacturing in Europe, Italy and in Europe) that a) Sustainability ( how the we combine globalization
and especially in Italy, manufacturing is poison product is made and how that inevitably leads to
but in order for this not and that the future lies in sustainable the supply creation of mass offer of
to happen and in order services. The result is that chain is in terms of man- products (few identical
to return to grow, politics everyone wants to live aging human resources products distributed ev-
should act effectively on in the world of services and in terms of environ- erywhere) with increasing-
at least two fronts: (consultants, salesmen, mental impact) ly personalized requests?
1) Bureaucracy ( it must insurers, etc.) and nobody b) Comfort (it has For us the answer lies in
be improved and above all wants to work in factories become more important the localization.
simplified because today anymore. But how much today for a piece of cloth-
it represents a cost that is work we who produce ing than the image, until
unsustainable for com- fabrics give and how a few years ago it was the
panies, already severely much work do certain opposite)
weakened by excessive tax startups that operate in c) Style and Storytelling
rates). marketing and consulting ( from simple fabric pro-
2) Globalization and give? Despite the crisis, we ducers we are becoming
Regulations ( conditions still feed several hundreds promoters of style today:
and regulations must be of families, while many we have to tell stories
standardized as much as other “modern” compa- and provoke emotions to
possible; If I pay custom nies feed only a couple of sell our products, having
duties when exporting in people and only when the a quality fabric is not
China or in the United time is good. Is this the enough anymore, we have
States, the same rules future we want? A world to manage our customers,
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
Tig. Nylon and polyester fabrics

SINCE 1995
became completely self partner Giovanni Reina of an increasingly fast and

Interview with – sufficient, developing had. Initially, we relied frenetic market. The main
Enrico Raoul its products internally. on contractors, we used feature of the Italian plant
Carnaghi, Diret- In 2001 you opened the their machines, then we are the modern systems
tore amministra- office in Busto Arsizio started our own individual and the orientation
tivo e socio Tig. and in 2008 you set adventure, with our own towards customer service.
Curated by Luigi up a production site in production plants and our The Hungarian produc-
Torriani Hungary, in Turje, near machinery. The company tion we acquired in 2008
Lake Balaton. What was managed by my fam- was initially specular to
are the characteristics of ily (by my father Carlo, the Italian one, and it was
the two locations? What who unfortunately passed oriented to more stan-
happens in the Hungar- away three years ago) dardized and less complex
ian production unit and and by Reina family, in products, but over the
what happens in Busto particular by Mr. Giovan- time we have implement-
During the first years Arsizio? ni Reina, historical figure ed a warping system focus-
O
when the company was of the Lombardy textile ing more on the vertical-
ur company was industry, who was already ization of our production
founded, Tig bought founded in a par-
and used contractors to a manager for many structure. Today in Hun-
ticular situation years in Miti. In 2001 we gary warping prevails over
produce fabrics. Then as an idea that my father
the company grew and opened the Busto Arsizio weaving, while in Italy we
Carlo Carnaghi and his plant to meet the needs develop new products and
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DATATEX MAGAZINE
we are mainly oriented because they don’t want to geotextile to rail transport in this field. Our strength
to weaving and customer risk or because in recent to bio – agriculture. There is therefore, in addition to
service. Both productions years there has also been a are even areas where until speed, flexibility, attention
are equally important to switch in mentality in b2b a few years ago the fabrics to modernization and
us, and we will certainly circles which has become were not used but today the continuous search for
continue to work both in more of a “discount” yes. Even within the light new sectors. Today I try
Italy and in Hungary. mentality. Until recently, poles today there is fabric to speak to everyone, I
What are your strengths if the quantities ordered (once it was only iron), attend fairs in every field,
and what are the pecu- were small, we simply re- in the new construction I let people know we are
liarities and essentials fused the order, but today material fabrics are used to here and I look for new
that allow Tig – despite you can’t afford to refuse give more flexibility and opportunities every day.
the general market crisis anyone, you take what resistance, they also have Today we need to sow ev-
– to be still a competitive arrives, you work harder, anti – seismic functions, erywhere to able to collect
industrial reality today? often badly and you earn there are moisture – proof something in the future.
In recent years there has less. In this scenario it was fabrics, fabrics for insula- What are the strategic
been an epochal change in inevitable for us to reorga- tion and insulating, there geographical areas and
our sector, a real revo- nize. We suffered but we are fabrics in many objects markets for you today
lution that is linked to managed to save ourselves, of common use, from mo- and who are your most
the combined effect of we have always reinvested bile phones to cars, and in important customers?
three factors: the crisis, and we have managed to many other situations in Italy is still our main
globalization and market resist. At a certain point which it is commonly not market today, and our
change. Today the delivery we sat down and we said thought of using fabrics. sales abroad still take
times have drastically to ourselves: if we want Today we also work for place within the Euro-
accelerated and the quan- to move forward, we need example in the railway pean borders. Certainly,
tity of orders have been to do market research industry, creating fabrics various products made
heavily reduced. Speed and understand how and used in brake linings. An- by our customers are sold
and efficiency have always where we can diversify and other sector in which we successfully all around
been our strengths and we identify new and inter- are investing a lot and we world, created however
are perfectly able to adapt esting businesses. After begin to see the first results from our fabrics. In terms
to the growing trends. The careful consideration, we is the bio – agriculture and of our clients I prefer not
problem is that the global- made two decisions: to agrotextile. In this case we to mention their names.
ization and the crisis have produce not only raw but are talking about partic- What do you think about
led to completely different also finished products, ular fabrics that defend placing products online
tendencies. There was and to throw ourselves on the crops from insects
an invasion of imported new markets. The decision and parasites and from
products (not raw fabric,
but already half – worked
to work with finished
fabrics was also a decision
atmospheric disasters. The
production of these special
BIO
T
fabrics), so many of our we took after receiving fabrics involves expensive
customers (who buy the many customer requests. laboratory tests and it IG (Tessuti
fabric from us and then Obviously we don’t have takes a long time before Indemagli-
process it) either closed finished products arranged we are able to put them
abili Greggi
down or converted into by color in our storage, we on the market, but the de-
pure distributors. I’ll give work only orders that have mand is growing, there is – Raw Run – proof
you an example: whoever large volumes and obvi- little competition and the Textiles) – Founded
first bought the fabric ously with clients of cer- business is very interest- in 1995, with the
from us to make clothing, tain importance that can ing. We are already work- headquarter in Bus-
today no longer exists or guarantee these volumes. ing in this sector (one of
has changed their activity As for the new sectors, we our clients is for example
to Arsizio, Tig is a
and now sells directly are constantly looking for the Arrigoni Spa group, company specialized
under their own brand new challenges. Some new a Como based company, in production of run
without producing inter- sectors we found are not European leader in hi-tech – proof nylon and
nally. Who among our old directly related to tradi- textile production for polyester fabrics.
clients still exists buys in tional textile industry and agriculture), and we want
smaller quantities, either they go all the way from to extend our production
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as a part of commercial however, in my opinion We all know each other customizing the products
b2b marketing? In ad- is not so interesting in very well, sometimes we for individual customers,
dition to the traditional our industry because we compete, other times we creating specific products,
channels, will you also work in a b2b world with collaborate (even if there so it would be very diffi-
focus on the web and e – little competition. There are mutual suspicions) cult to sell directly on an
commerce in the upcom- are a dozen companies in but unfortunately we e – commerce platform.
ing years or is that a path Italy that do what we do can’t make a system like On the other hand, it is
you are not interested in (run proof materials), and in Germany, and in any important, of course, to
taking? within this niche there are case I don’t think we can use the web in terms of
I see web as a possibility to more niches (for example generate a particularly marketing, to enhance our
be seen, make our com- Carvico is specialized interesting business by image and let people know
pany known, like a shop in swimwear, the Miti selling online. There is also we are out there.
window, and from this in sport, swimwear and another reason: we have
point of view I recognize industrial fabrics, we few standard products and
its importance and po- in technical, industrial we work almost totally by
tential. An e – commerce and clothing fabrics).
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DATATEX

Italian fabrics for luxury

Fabrics made in Italy since 1929

A great company in Forlì

The great Italian yarn industry

With the new Datatex Magazine we want to continue the story

In recent years there has been a process of inflation, “pauperiza-

The interviews curated by Luigi Torriani contained in this first

(Maurizio Desio – CEO of Datatex Group).

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 1 23/05/2018 14:13

‘‘ The revival of the paper edition of the magazine, with extensive

Luigi Torriani – curator of the Datatex Magazine)

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 2 23/05/2018 14:13

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER PROJECT

For info: marketing@datatex.it

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 3 23/05/2018 14:13

Clerici Tessuto. Italian fabrics for luxury p.6

Mantero seta and the silk district in Como p.8

The Chinese textile in Prato, 30 years of activity p.11

Ongetta The twisting of silk p.14

Dragoni, Fabrics made in Italy since 1929 p.16

Dino Zoli Textile. A great company in Forlì p.17

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 4 23/05/2018 14:13

Taroni. The art of silk in Como p.19

Datatex. The new plant maintenance module p.21

Gruppo Marchi e Fildi. The great Italian yarn industry p.25

Berto. Textile industry since 1887 p.28

Tig. Nylon and polyester fabrics since 1995 p.31

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 5 23/05/2018 14:13

What is “luxury” in the structural changes on frequently updated on

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 6 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 7 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 8 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 9 23/05/2018 14:13

INFORMATION SYSTEMS AND

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 10 23/05/2018 14:13

THE CHINESE TEXTILE

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 11 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 12 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 13 23/05/2018 14:13

The Ongetta products are 2 Growing demand for development. As far as

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 14 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 15 23/05/2018 14:13

DRAGONI–Fabrics made in Italy since 1929

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 16 23/05/2018 14:13

Dino Zoli Textile

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 17 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 18 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 19 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 20 23/05/2018 14:13

The new plant maintenance module

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 21 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 22 23/05/2018 14:13

or define its components in a hierarchy set at three levels (Fig. 4).

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 23 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 24 23/05/2018 14:13

MARCHI AND FILDI GROUP

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 25 23/05/2018 14:13

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 26 23/05/2018 14:13

INFORMATION SYSTEMS AND

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 27 23/05/2018 14:13

What are the most core business. We have b) Flexibility of produc-

DATATEX-ENG-Magazine-18/05/18.indd 28 23/05/2018 14:13