do-it-yourself project help

Electrical

How-to Information

Getting Started Installing Light Fixtures

Service Panel Common Electrical Codes

Running Cable Troubleshooting

Installing Outlets & Switches Glossary of Terms & Definitions

Additional Resources

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Electrical
Getting Started
Electrical systems can seem like a
confusing mess of connections, cables,
and boxes hidden inside the walls. But
with a little common sense and a few
precautions, do-it-yourselfers can
handle most projects.

Electrical work can be intimidating

because it can be dangerous, and some
accidents can cause serious injury.

If you're not confident in your ability to do electrical work,

continue to learn more about it or consider hiring someone to do
the work.

Your project may require a building permit and inspections. It's

your responsibility to get the proper permit and schedule
inspection times.

WARNING: DOING WORK WITHOUT A REQUIRED

PERMIT IS NOT ONLY ILLEGAL, BUT MAY ALSO
INVALIDATE YOUR HOMEOWNER'S INSURANCE.

When you're doing a remodeling job,

wiring may be old and outdated. If
you're tearing out walls enough to
expObviously, that involves more
work and money for materials like
cable, boxes, switches, staples, but
you'll feel much better having newer,
safer cable in the house.

● Safety

ose wiring, it should be brought up to code.

Steps

● Electrical System Basics

● Using Testers
● Electrical Glossary for terms and definitions.

Safety Steps

Before you do any electrical work on a circuit, make sure the

power is off. Turn off the breaker (or pull/unscrew the correct
fuse) to the circuit you'll be working on.

Post a sign on the service panel so nobody tries to restore

power while you're working on the circuits.

Double-check the circuit with a circuit tester before you

touch it to make sure the correct breaker has been tripped.

Labeling or drawing a diagram before unhooking wires will take any guesswork out of
how to reconnect them.

Wear shoes with non-conductive soles, use tools with rubber grips and don't stand in
water to avoid a potentially dangerous shock.

Finally, never push yourself to finish a wiring job. That's when mistakes happen. If you
run into a difficult stretch of work, take a break and think about what needs to be done.
If you're still not sure, don't take chances -- contact a professional.

Electrical System Basics

Electricity is supplied by a local utility to a house through

three underground or overhead wires (two "hot" leads and
one neutral lead) that enter the house through a conduit
and a meter.

Those wires connect to their respective buss bars inside

the service panel -- usually two hot, one neutral, and one
ground buss.

Circuit breakers slide/snap onto the hot buss bars. They act as safeguards against
short circuits and overloads by "tripping" off. A breaker also functions as a switch;
turning the circuit on and off as desired.

Breakers also connect to outgoing "hot" wires. The hot wires deliver power to a device
(like a light) and normally have black insulation. Cable with two hot leads also have a
red hot lead.

Once the electricity has done it's work, it goes back to complete the circuit on the
"neutral" wire, which is most often white.

Electricity needs this completed circuit to work properly

-- a way OUT through the hot wire, and a way BACK
through the neutral wire.

In addition to the neutral, the green (or bare copper)

ground wire offers current another path back should an
electrical short or overload happen.

From the service panel, the ground has two safe paths to divert electricity: connected
to a long metal rod buried outside the house and/or the house's water pipes.

All the wires, called cable, are often housed by a flexible plastic sheathing. It's
nonmetallic-sheathed (NM) cable, but is often mistakenly called "Romex" which is a
brand name made by General Cable Corporation.

Cable is also identified by gauge (thickness) and the number of leads it has. For
example, NM 14-2G means that the cable is nonmetallic, 14 gauge, has two leads (1
neutral, 1 hot), and a ground wire.

Using Testers

If working with electricity scares you, a voltage/neon-light

tester can help change that. It's an inexpensive, but
invaluable tool for determining if a circuit is "live" or "dead."

It's basically just a small neon light bulb attached to two

wires. When the contacts on the wires are touched to a live
circuit, the light goes on. And when there's no juice coming
to the circuit, the light stays off.

But it's important to get into a good habit of always testing switches, outlets and wires
before your hand actually touches them.

You can test an outlet without taking off the cover plate, but also check its screw
terminals. For that and for switches, you'll have to take off the cover plate.

To make sure the power is off before you work on an outlet, test between the screws
on each side, and between the screw on the shorter slot side and the green ground
screw. No light means the "juice" is off.

To check for proper grounding, test between the shorter slot (hot) and the round hole
(ground). If the tester lights up, there's probably proper grounding. It should also light
when you test between the shorter slot and the cover plate screw.
To check that the power is off to a switch, check between both terminals on the switch
and then between the copper ground lead and each terminal.

For bare wires, hold one tester lead on the bare ground wire (or box if it's grounded)
and the other test lead on the hot, then neutral wire. Also check between the two leads.
If the light stays off, the circuit is off.

Plug-in circuit testers that fit right into outlets can tell you
a lot. On our tester, two amber lights mean everything's ok.

Other combinations of lights indicate different potential

problems with a circuit -- like an improper ground. They're
handy for checking and diagnosing connections when you're
installing several new cable runs and circuits.

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 Pg 2
Electrical
Service Panel
An electrical service panel is
the main distribution center
of your house's electricity. It's where the local utility's
service lines hook up with the individual circuits that run
throughout the house.

If you don't feel comfortable working at the service

panel, don't take chances -- hire a licensed electrician.

In many areas, an electrician is also needed to hook up

the service leads to the service panel and that's also a good time to have the
branch circuits hooked up.

● Panel Components
● Circuit Breakers
● Fuses
● Electrical Glossary for terms and definitions.

Panel Components

This section is not designed to help a beginner start

work on a service panel. Remember, no one should
attempt service panel work without having a firm
understanding of what it's all about.

Here, we'll explain the major parts of the service panel

to give you a basic understanding of how it functions.

Three utility service lines come into the panel. Two "hot"
leads attach to a two-gang main circuit breaker that connects to two "hot" buss
bars.

Individual branch circuit breakers, rated to accept a fixed amperage of

electricity, clip or slide onto the hot buss bars.

Each breaker also connects with an outbound "hot" lead that supplies a circuit.

The service panel has a neutral buss bar where the incoming neutral service line
connects with the neutral leads of the branch circuits.

The panel should also have a ground buss bar where all the branch ground wires
screw in.

In main service panels, the ground buss and neutral buss are connected together
to provide a safe grounding path for both busses.

Circuit Breakers

All newer homes, and many older ones that have been re-
wired, will have circuit breakers. Each breaker controls
the power to a group of lights, outlets and appliances.

If it hasn't been done already, you should label each

breaker so you know just what it controls.

Circuit breakers protect the wiring and fixtures by turning

off the power. If a fixture shorts out, or if a circuit gets
overloaded, the breaker will "trip."

That cuts power to the circuit and protect the wires and fixtures from damage. The
most common reason for a breaker to trip is too many appliances and lights on one
circuit.

A tripped breaker usually looks like it's between the ON and OFF positions. To
reset a breaker, turn it OFF and then ON again. If a service panel doesn't have
breakers, it probably has fuses.

Fuses

Fuses perform the same function as a breaker, except

when a fuse blows, it has to be replaced.

There are cartridge fuses and screw-in fuses.

Cartridges look kind of like a shotgun shell. They mount
in a little rack that pulls in and out of a bracket
Screw-in fuses screw in and out like light bulbs. Some
have a glass window on top and metal threads on bottom.

When a fuse blows, its internal metal strip breaks and the window may get
discolored. Be sure to replace a fuse with the exact same amperage-rated fuse.

Fifteen and 20 amp fuses are the most common size ratings. Some fuses have a
smaller screw base and are called "non-tamperable, type-S" fuses.

The threads vary in size so they can't be accidentally replaced by another type.
When you install a fuse, screw it in snug, then give an extra 1/4-turn to make a
solid connection.

Other fuses are rated as "slow-blow" or "time delay." They take a little longer to
blow and are made to withstand short, extra surges of power -- like a motor
starting.

When buying replacements, be sure to get the right fuse types. It's also a good
idea to get a couple extra fuses of each type to keep on hand when working on
circuits.

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 Pg 3
Electrical
Running Cable
Running electrical cable
is simple in theory: pull
it through holes in the framing from a junction box
to the service panel.

However, actually getting cable to cooperate can be

difficult and time consuming. So it helps to apply
some creativity and patience.

Double-check with your circuit diagrams before running any cable. Also see if you
can double up runs anywhere by pulling two cables at once.

In a new house or a major remodeling project, cable and boxes are "roughed-in"
before the walls are insulated and drywalled.

NOTE: Insulation can be put up then removed for an inspection, but

inspecting needs to be done before the walls are sealed by a vapor
barrier and wallboard.

For terms and definitions see Electrical Glossary.

Hanging Boxes & Drilling Holes

Mount junction boxes for the outlets, lights and switches.

Each box should stick out a little past the framing so its
front will be flush with -- or set back just a fraction from --
the drywall.

You can use a scrap piece of drywall to set boxes out the
right distance. Some boxes even have a pre-formed 1/2"
reference line for quick installation.
 Next, drill holes in the framing for the cables. Most rooms
have an attic above them or a basement below. Drilling holes so cable runs
horizontally through joists is usually easiest.

A heavy-duty right-angle drill with a 1" bit is a good

tool of choice. Wall holes drilled at about knee-height
will be just right.

Codes require that holes be 1 1/4" from both edges of

studs which puts them right in the middle of a 2 x 4.

Where lines are too close to framing edges, add

protective metal cover plates to prevent nails from
puncturing wires and pipes.

Drilling holes through ceiling joists and wall plates will be a bit harder and that's
where the right-angle drill is really handy.

Pulling Cable

The traditional way to pull cable is to start at the last

fixture in the run, pull cable to each fixture in the
circuit, and continue all the way back to the service
panel.

To do this, leave the box/spool of cable at the last

fixture, unwind enough cable to complete the run and
then start pulling it through the holes.

Nonmetallic-sheathed cable is used most of the time. It

can tangle or bind once in a while. If you feel a lot of
resistance while pulling, the cable is probably kinked and needs to be straightened
out somewhere along the run.

If you're replacing old cable, you can often twist the ends
of new and old wires together, wrap them with electrical
tape, and pull the old cable out of the wall until the new
cable appears.

A special tool called a "fish tape" can also be fed through

holes, hooked to new cable, and pulled back to retrieve it.

Each time you reach a junction box, pull a couple extra

feet of cable through for making connections later.

On long runs, you may have to go back to the box/spool a few times to feed more
cable through. That's when two people really save time: one feeding cable and one
pulling cable.
Once the cable reaches the service panel, leave a foot or so of extra length on
both the service end and the box/spool end for connecting.

After the cable is in place, fasten it to framing with

brackets -- called staples -- every 4 1/2', at turns, and
where cable enters a box.

Also label each cable end with a felt pen or piece of tape
to keep them organized.

Remember, when the rough-in is done an inspection is

needed, so schedule it accordingly to avoid downtime.

After the inspection, drywall and paint, you're ready to install the switches, outlets
and light fixtures.

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 Pg 4
Electrical
Installing Outlets & Switches
Most switches and outlets are
installed after mechanical rough-ins,
drywall and paint are completed.

When you shop for devices like

switches and outlets, there are
several different types to wade
through. Make sure to get the device
that works properly with the circuit.

The type of switch you install is determined by the circuit's

wiring scheme. Outlets are pretty standard, but GFCIs are
required in some rooms and box size is another thing to
consider.

● Sizing Junction Boxes

● GFCI Outlets
● Single-Pole Switches
● Three-Way Switches
● Electrical Glossary for terms and definitions.

Sizing Junction Boxes

All switches and outlets

(receptacles) need a properly-sized
junction (electrical) box. For
example, a 2" x 3" box with 3 wires
(14 gauge) should be 2 1/2" deep.
The same box with 5 wires must be
3 1/2" deep.
 Installing an undersized box is
probably the most common wiring mistake for do-it-
yourselfers. When in doubt, it's usually best to use a larger box.

If you're not sure about box size requirements, remember to ask your electrical
inspector when submitting diagrams.

Here's one way to calculate minimum box size:

1. Count the number of wires for the box. Don't count

outlet/switch pigtails and count all ground wires as one.

2. Take that number, add one for each cable clamp, and
two for each device (like a switch or outlet).

3. If the box contains only 14-gauge wires, multiply the

total by 2 cubic inches. Or, for 12-gauge wires, multiply
the total by 2.25 cubic inches.

The result is the minimum allowable volume the box should be. Volumes are usually
stamped into the back of the box on the inside.

GFCI Outlets

A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, also GFI) is an

outlet designed to prevent electrical shock. It's a little
bigger than a normal outlet and has two buttons on the
front.

These buttons allow you to check the GFCI monthly to see if

it's still working properly. Push in the black "Test" button to
kill power to that circuit. Restore power by pushing the red
"Reset" button.

A GFCI also monitors the current being used by anything plugged into it. Normally, a
balance of current passes through the GFCI.

If a misdirection of current, called a "fault to ground," the GFCI senses it and shuts
down almost instantly -- which can prevent potentially hazardous shocks.

On the back side of a standard GFCI are four (two sets)

terminal screws -- two brass "hot" screws and two silver
"neutral" screws.

The bottom brass and silver set -- marked "Line" -- is for

incoming wires. The top set -- marked "Load" -- is for
wires going to other protected outlets.

The GFCI also has a green "ground" screw on the bottom.

That's where the bare copper ground wire connects and provides a path for
dangerous current to be safely diverted.

Single-Pole Switches

A single-pole switch has two brass screw terminals. Both

are hot leads for one incoming and one outgoing line.
Those are all the wires that connect to the switch.

The neutral wires tie together separately and the ground

wires tie together separately in the box.

Many new switches include a ground screw; others may

not have one. If you have the choice, get a switch with a
ground screw terminal. That's where the bare copper or green wire connects.

When a switch is at the end of a circuit (one incoming cable), the neutral also
becomes a hot lead and connects to a terminal. This type of wiring scheme is often
called a switch loop.

NOTE: Install the switch so flipping it UP turns the light ON. This is very
important if using a silent, "mercury" switch, because they won't operate
properly unless they're installed correctly.

Three-way Switches

Three-way switches can control one light from two

different places. Like switches that operate a light
from both the top and bottom of a staircase.

A three-way switch has three screws. One screw is

colored darker than the other two. It's called the
"Common" terminal. The other two screws are
called "Traveler" terminals.

You can wire two three-way switches and a light in a few different ways. It all
depends where the light is located: before, between or after the switches.

What we describe is not how all three-way switches are wired. But the following will
give you an idea of how they're connected.

For simplicity, let's say the light is after both switches. The first box has two cables:
one 14-2 incoming from a power source, and one 14-3 outbound to the second box.

The second box has that incoming 14-3 cable and an outbound 14-2 cable to the
light.
In each box, twist all the ground wires together (add a pigtail in each metal box).
Screw on a wire connector (and fasten the pigtail to the back of the metal box).

Connect the two neutral leads in each box with wire connectors.

In the first box, connect the incoming (14-2) hot lead to

the switch's "Common" terminal. Connect the outbound
(14-3) leads to the two "Traveler" screws. In this case,
the traveler leads can be hooked to either terminal.

In the second box, hook up the incoming (14-3) hot leads

to the switch's travelers screws.

Finally, hook up the outbound (14-2) hot lead going to the

light to the "Common" screw. That completes wiring the switches. Complete the
circuit by hooking up the light to the neutral, hot and ground leads.

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 Pg 5
Electrical
Installing Light Fixtures
There are no hard-and-fast
steps for installing light
fixtures. Most new lights have diagrams and instructions
which you should read over at least once before you get
started.

In an add-on situation, you can run a new circuit. Or,

you can draw power from an existing circuit. But too
many devices can constantly trip a breaker so figure the
circuit's load capacity before adding a light.

A big installation battle is just getting fixtures mounted properly. Normally, an

extra cross brace is nailed up during the framing process.

If you're retro-fitting, you may have to tear out some wallboard to add extra
bracing, or settle for locating the fixture's box on the nearest stud or joist.

● Retro-fitting Recessed Lights

● Hanging Ceiling Fans
● Mounting Track Lighting
● Electrical Glossary for terms and definitions.

Retro-fitting Recessed Lights

Usually recessed lights are installed after framing and

before drywall. Sometimes that step is forgotten or you
may want to retro-fit a recessed light to enhance a
room's lighting scheme.

For this project, we purchased a recessed fixture with a

 mounting bracket designed to fit through the hole.

Use the light's housing as a guide to mark the hole. Then

use a keyhole saw to cut the hole.

NOTE: Remember, your circuits and some of these steps will probably
be different. Keep insulation at least 3" away from recessed lights,
unless light is marked "I.C." (Insulated Ceiling) to avoid overheating
and fire.

Mark the location of the fixture. We ran incoming power directly to the light fixture
then ran cable down to the switch to make a loop.

To mount the light, slip the frame brackets up into the

opening. Position the fixture to set flush with the bottom
of the wood framing. Fasten the frame to the joists by
pounding in the metal teeth on its supporting arms.

Use small mounting clips included with the light to

fasten it slightly recessed from the surface of the
drywall.

Paint the area before putting in the reflector shield and bulb if you can. Then snap
the shield into place.

Hanging Ceiling Fans

How a ceiling fan is mounted depends on the model.

Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

We'll describe a few ways to mount a fan, but almost all

of them need a special ceiling fan-rated junction box
anchored to a ceiling joist.

Determine the location of the fan, usually in the center of

the room. If you can't alter the location to be next to a
joist, nail up a cross brace between the joists.

Nail up a junction box so it will set flush with the ceiling drywall. Then run the
incoming power cable, leaving about 1' of extra cable for connections.

Hang drywall if needed at this point. Careful of the electrical cable, cut out around
the outside edges of the box then finish anchoring the drywall.

Use a step ladder to rest the fan on and fasten the mounting bracket to the
junction box. Connect the respective cable and fan wires together, securing each
pair with a wire connector.

Lift the fan into position (make sure the decorative cover is on), fasten it to the
mounting bracket, and slide on the decorative cover.

Mounting Track Lighting

Track lighting can add beauty and flexibility to a room's

design scheme and it's fairly easy to install a new
fixture on a finished ceiling.

Orient the track so the bulbs will face objects you want
to light at about a 30° angle.

If you aren't replacing an existing ceiling light, you'll

have to install a new junction box and run switched
power to the box on a new cable.

Usually, a light kit will have connecting wires, but you can also make them. Cut a
piece of cable long enough to tie in with the source cable and reach the track
terminals.

Strip the cable and connect each wire to its source

cable mate. Cap the connections with wire connectors
and fold them in the box.

Feed the wire ends through the fixture's mounting

plate and fasten it to the box.

Feed the ends through the

track opening at the
terminals. Secure the track to the ceiling, either by
screwing into the ceiling joists or using molly/toggle
bolts.

Hook up the ground wire to the fixture's base plate.

Strip the hot and neutral wires and secure them to the
respective track terminals.

Then attach each light fixture onto the track. Follow the manufacturer's
instructions, but some fixtures snap on and others attach with a bracket.

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 Pg 6
Electrical
Common Electrical Codes
Before you do any kind of electrical work, you should
know what codes pertain to your project because they
determine how electrical work should be done.

Electricians follow the National Electric Code (NEC) to figure circuit wiring and
capacity necessary for each situation. It's a fairly complex guide, so you may want
to consult your local inspector for more help in clarifying codes.

As you plan out circuits, keep in mind that it's generally better and safer to have
more available circuits and extra capacity, than too few.

Figure in any future updates and a maximum load demand each circuit may have
when making a diagram.

For terms and definitions see Electrical Glossary.

General Guidelines

Here are a few typical guidelines that do-it-yourselfers should know about when
doing electrical work. These are NOT legal interpretations of the National Electrical
Code, so check with your local authority before starting work:

Kitchens

● All the kitchen, breakfast room, pantry, and dining room outlets
must be supplied by at least two 20-amp small appliance
circuits.
● Outlets above the kitchen counter normally are fed by both
circuits -- they all cannot be wired to just one circuit. The
circuits should not supply any lights or other outlets in the
house.
 Appliances

● Separate circuits are needed for built-in appliances (i.e. oven,

range, disposer, dishwasher, central air conditioner, furnace).
● One 20-amp circuit is needed for the laundry outlet within 6' of
the machines. An electric dryer requires an additional 240-volt
circuit.

Outlets

● One lighting/convenience outlet circuit for every 575 square

feet of floor space in a house.
● Any bathroom or garage outlet within 6' of a sink must be GFCI
protected. A new code requires all kitchen outlets for countertop
use to be GFCI protected.
● At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement
and for most outdoor outlets (exceptions include inaccessible
outlets like at a garage ceiling or behind a refrigerator.
● Any point along the bottom of a wall (which is 2' or wider) must
be within 6' of an outlet. The 6' distance cannot be measured
across a doorway or fireplace. And the outlet must be within 5
1/2' of the floor. This code cuts down on extension cord use,
especially across doorways, fireplaces and similar openings.

Switches

● A light switch must control lighting in every habitable room,

hallway, stairway, or garage. The switch can control either a
light fixture or a receptacle into which a lamp is plugged.
● In kitchens and bathrooms, the light switch must control a
permanently installed light fixture.

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.
 Pg 7
Electrical
Troubleshooting
This section explains how to repair
some common household electrical
problems. Remember, always make
sure the circuit you'll be working on
is shut off.

When you shut off a breaker or pull

a fuse, post a message at the
service panel (or fuse box) notifying
others so they don't try to restore power while you're working.

Also, replace any device (i.e. switch, outlet) with one having
the same number of terminals and power rating -- unless you
know the original device was wrong for the job.

● Changing Outlets
● Replacing Three-way Switches
● Repairing Lamps
● Fixing Cord Plugs
● Fixing Grounded Cord Plugs
● Electrical Glossary for terms and definitions.

Changing Outlets

Outlets (receptacles) have to

withstand the wear and tear of
yanking cords out of the sockets. If an
outlet is loose, or anything that's
plugged into it flickers on and off, it's
time to be replaced.
 On its back side, an outlet is rated for
voltage and amperage (125 volts and 15 amps is most
common). Make sure to get a replacement with the same
ratings.

Turn off the circuit breaker that controls the outlet. Test that the power is off by
sticking both circuit tester probes in the outlet slots of each socket. No light means
the power is off.

Take off the cover plate. Just to be safe, test the circuit again. This time, touch the
probe to the screw terminals on both sides where the wires are attached.

Start with the top set of screws, and then test the bottom set. No light means no
power, so the outlet is safe to work on.

Next, unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the wall box by the mounting tabs. The
wires should unfold and stretch out so you can access them.

A grounded outlet has a round hole on the face in addition to the two slots. If there
are three holes in the outlet face, there should be three wires attached to the outlet.

The black (hot) and white (neutral) wires carry the current, and the copper wire is
the ground. Note that the outlet's screw terminals are certain colors.

The white wire goes on the silver screw. The bare copper or green wire goes on the
green screw. And the black wire gets attached to the brass screw.

If the terminals aren't easy to identify by color, the

ground terminal may be marked with a "GR." Also, the
white wire goes to the side with the longer slot on the
face. And the black wire always goes to the short slot
side.

Make a note of how the wires are arranged and unscrew

them. Bend each wire in a clockwise direction. Hook them
around the new outlet's terminals so when the screws
tighten, the wire pulls inward for a better connection

Screw the wires onto the new terminals, carefully push the outlet back into the box
so the wires don't kink and tighten down the mounting screws and cover plate.

Replacing Three-Way Switches

Electricians get many repair calls when a homeowner has

wired a three-way switch incorrectly. Or, an old three-way
switch has been accidentally replaced with a single-pole
switch, which won't operate the light correctly.
 It's not necessary to understand the whole theory of how a
three-way switch system is wired. But it's important to
remember which wire was connected to the common screw of
the old switch.

Before doing any electrical work, turn off the circuit. Double-check it with a circuit
tester to make sure that it's dead.

Put one test lead on the ground (copper or green color) wire or box if it's metal, and
the other test lead on the hot wire, then the neutral wire. If the light stays off, the
circuit is dead.

Take off the cover plate and unscrew the switch from the box. It's easy to identify a
three-way switch because it has three screws (two brass and one dark).

Pull the switch out and label the wire hooked to the dark "common" screw.

Unhook the old switch and hook up the new one: ground wire pigtailed to the box,
travelers to the light-colored screws (interchangeable), and most important, the
labeled wire to the darker "common" screw.

Fold the wires back in the box, attach the switch to the box, and put on the cover
plate.

Repairing Lamps

A common problem for lamps is a bad connection with the

bulb and contact tab in the bottom of the socket. Make
sure the lamp is unplugged. Use a screwdriver tip to
scrape off any corrosion, and then prying it up a little.

If the problem remains, take apart the socket. Most

sockets have a "PRESS" mark stamped into the upper
cover. Squeeze the cover there, and work it off.

Remove the insulating cardboard sleeve. Check the wire connections. If they look
good, the next thing to troubleshoot is the cord.

Remove the wires from the screw terminals, noting how they're connected. If there's
a silver wire and a copper wire, the copper goes on the brass screw. If both leads are
copper, the lead with the ridge on the side of the insulation goes to the brass screw.

Use a continuity tester to check the cord. If there's a

switch somewhere on the lamp or cord, make sure it's
"ON" when you test.

If there's continuity in the cord, replace the inner

socket. Be sure to get a replacement that matches the
original.
We also add an "underwriters" knot that protects the new leads from being
yanked off the terminals.

Then connect the wires to the new socket. Twist the bare
ends of the wire, hook them clockwise around the
terminals and screw them down.

Put the socket inside the sleeve, and the sleeve inside the
cover. Push the cover back down on the base and orient
the switch in the desired direction.

If the lamp still doesn't work, it's a good idea to have a

professional take a look at it.

Fixing Cord Plugs

The plug end of a lamp or appliance cord may pull

lose of it's cord connection. Replacement is fairly
easy, however.

For basic flat cords, you can use a "quick-

connect" plug. The plug pulls apart by squeezing
the prongs together.

Feed the end of the plug through the back of the cover. Spread the prongs apart and
insert the wire into the back of the core.

Squeeze the prongs together. They have small metal spikes that penetrate the cord's
insulation to make contact with the copper wires inside.

Slide the cover down onto the core to complete the job. For a little stronger
connection, use a plug with screw terminals.

Start with a clean end on the cord -- sometimes called

"zip cord" because the two side pull apart easily. Strip
about 3/4" off the end of the two wires and twist the lead
strands together tightly.

Hook each lead to fit around the screw terminals and

attach the lead that has a ridge on the insulation to the
silver terminal.

If the screws aren't color-coded, this lead goes to the wider plug prong. Work the
cover back down over the core.

Fixing Grounded Cord Plugs

 Most cords with grounding plugs are molded right onto
the cord end. However, they can fray and work loose. If
this happens, it's best to replace the plug.

Cut off the old plug and strip the ends of the wire. Many
cords have an outer sheathing of insulation. Strip it back
about 1 1/2" with a utility knife and cut off the excess.

Strip about 3/4" off the end of each lead. Feed the cord through the plug's back
cover and connect the wires. The plug terminals are located in the back.

NOTE: Terminals on the face of replacement plugs covered by a

removable cardboard disk are illegal and not a safe choice.

The green (ground) lead goes to the green screw. The

white (neutral) lead goes on the silver terminal. The
black lead goes around the brass screw.

Finally, put the cover over the plug and screw down
the cord clamp.

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 Pg 8
Electrical
Glossary of Terms & Definitions

Amp (Ampere)
A unit that measures the strength/rate of flow of electrical current.

Armored Cable
Electrical wires protected by metal sheathing.

Branch Circuits
The circuits in a house that branch from the service panel to boxes and
devices.

Breaker
A switch-like device that connects/disconnects power to a circuit.

Buss Bar (also Bus Bar)

Separate, metallic strips that extend through the service panel.
Breakers slide onto the "hot" busses and neutral and ground wires
screw down in their respective busses.

BX Cable
An old type of armored cable now illegal.

Cable Clamps
Metal clips inside an electrical box that hold wires in place.

Circuit
A continuous loop of current (i.e. incoming "hot" wire, through a
device, and returned by "neutral" wire).

Circuit Breaker
The most common type of "overcurrent protection." A breaker trips
when a circuit becomes overloaded or shorts out.

Conduit
A protective metal tube that wires run through.

Duplex Receptacle
The commonly used receptacle (outlet). Called "duplex" because it has
two plug-in sockets.

Fuses
Removable devices that link a circuit at the fuse box. Fuse connections
blow apart and break the circuit if an overload or short occurs.

Fixture
Any permanently connected light or other electrical device that
consumes power.

GFCI or GFI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

A specific type of circuit protection (commonly required in kitchens &
bathrooms) that helps safeguard against shocks. GFCI protection can
come from an outlet or a breaker.

Ground Fault
Current misdirected from the hot (or neutral) lead to a ground wire,
box, or conductor.

Hot, Neutral, Ground

The three most common circuit wires. The hot brings the current flow
in, the neutral returns it to the source, and the ground is a safety
route for returning current. The ground and neutral are joined only at
the main service panel.

Junction (Electrical) Box

A square, octagonal, or rectangular plastic or metal box that fastens to
framing and houses wires, and/or receptacles and/or switches.

Knockout
A removable piece of an electrical box or panel that's "knocked out" to
allow cable to enter the box.

Lead
The short length of a conductor that hangs free in a box or service
panel. (i.e. a wire end)

NM
Nonmetallic-sheathed (plastic).

NMC
Solid plastic nonmetallic-sheathing used in wet or corrosive areas, but
not underground (see UF).

Ohm
A unit that measures the resistance a conductor has to electricity.

Pigtail
A short, added piece of wire connected by a wire connector. Commonly
used to extend or connect wires in a box.

Romex
A brand name of nonmetallic-sheathed cable made by General Cable
Corporation. Often mistakenly used as a collective term for NM
sheathed cable.

Rough-In
Installing the boxes, cables, and making "in-wall" connections while
the walls are still open. Later, final connections are made and the
devices and appliances are installed during the trim-out.

Service Entrance (SE)

The location where the incoming electrical line enters the home.

Service/Supply Leads
The incoming electrical lines that supply power to the service panel.

Service Panel
The main circuit breaker panel (or fuse box) where all the circuits tie
into the incoming electrical supply line.

Short Circuit
When current flows "short" of reaching a device. Caused by a hot
conductor accidentally contacting a neutral or ground. A short circuit is
an immediate fault to ground and should always cause the breaker to
trip or the fuse to blow. (also see ground fault)

Travelers
Wires that carry current between three-way and/or four-way switches.

UF (Underground Feeder) cable

Cable designed and rated for underground, outdoor use. Cable wires
are molded into solid plastic.

Volt
A unit that measures the amount of electrical pressure.

Watt
A unit that measures the amount of electrical power.

< Back to Electrical Index

 For More How-To Information:
Our Electrical video
is available in the Hometime Store. GO!

Store | On TV | How-To | About Us | Search | Contact Us | Site Map

VHS / DVDs | Books | Plans | Hardware | Clothing | Specials

©2005 Hometime Video Publishing, Inc.