•

Projects, Techniques, and Products

magazlne
Contents
Skill-Building Techniques
Router Dovetailed Drawers Done Right
19 Tips and tricks for getting perfectly fitting joints from any jig.

Small·Shop Dust Collection

46 Heady to retire your broom? Learn how to sdect the best collector, and
design and Install the ductwork. for a cleaner, healthier works hop.

Tough-Love Workshop Finishes

54 Three fast and foolproof finishes for your
cabinets and tountertoJls, guaranteed to
withstand shop abuse.

How to Install a Workshop

56 Wood Floor
Every woodworker wanL,> comfort underfoot when spending entire days in
the shop. Here's a floor that delivers, along with considerable good looks.
See how to install one step by step.

Tools and More

Power Sharpeners
60 Plug-ins sharpen edges faster than sharpening stones, but speed and
convenience come at a price. Compare three sharpening systems to decide
which one suits your needs and budget.

Hot New Tools & Accessories

16 Delta Un isaw • Tab le Saw Panel-lifter . Stanley Planes
• Corrosion Inhibitor · Steel City Granite Lathe

70 Problem-Solving Products
• Oneway Multi-Gauge
• Dowelmax Joinery System

Departments
06 Cutting In
08 News & Views
12 Tips & Tricks
66 Woodsense: Sheet Goods for the Shop
78 Next Issue's Highlights
80 Workshop Mishaps

4 woodcraftmagazine.com April 2009

Cutting In WmDCRAFT
magazme
June/July 2009
Volume 5, Issue 29
[dilat-ln -Chi~ r Jim Harfold
S~nlor Editor Joe H~rst'W~jUC1uk
Building Our Workshop Ass.o~l.tc Editor 5hl fM Hambrlcl:;

C~allve OlrKtor K ~ n Beady

Hard work, creativity, and lots of fun Au ist.nt Art Di~(!or (n.d Ml Clunll

C011trlbutlnS Edltorl
Cr.li l B~nUlev. OWen Ou~a ll ,
Last June, we started on our Woodcraft Magazine workshop. The Tim Sn~d e ', ?~Ier J. Stephana
space available rem inded me of what many of you , our readers, have Conlrlbutln. Graphk Desi,nu
to dea l with. It was a basement area-concrete floor, cinder-block Sh ~ yn~ HiI~s
Conlributin. Ulust ralo "
walls, poor lighting, insufficient power, zero dust collection. But we Mike Mad~r, Sh i ne W ~ irsm.
had a dream, a ton of ideas, and the ambition to do things right. We Contrlbutin. P'tlolo.rapne ..
~~ul"'Mhonv. 000 « Row,"
also had the resources, thanks, in part, to help from our advertisers;
a gang of very talented woodworkers, designers, and consultants: Conlrib~lin~ Crlh,m .. n/Project DullneH

and the support of our parent company, Woodcraft Supply, LLC. Tim 8I r kl"nd , Gilrv Carter. ~en s.tC

We also set T.~hnl<~1 c<>nutt . ~t .

Je ff Hilt l arrv Osborn, Robe rt Winer,
goals. Just as So~th~'n fo'est PrO~\I(h"'ssod~tiDf1,
the Native
Americans of Business/Production Linda Rowe
the Great Plains Man~I'H

used every part

ofthe buffalo, Ad .... ftisl~l/ Mif ~ fI(j ~ Kidd
we wanted Cir~"lalion S~pport

everything Circulation
Ci f( ullOtion S~<i. li't'. Inc.
we did in our
workshop to Sub,crlptlon.
U.S . ~ ~d C~Md~. 519.97 for one y~ae
be of value Sln,lle <"flV, $5.99
'us\omer_seNice@lwoo dcrahmal·'in~.~om
to you, from
tHOO) 542·9125
laying down a workshop wood floor (page 56), outfitting the
Contact UI
shop with easy-to-build base and wall cabinets (page 20), to dust WD()dor~ft Mag.,ine
collection (page 46). As you'll sec in this jam-packed issue, we even 4420 Em~ .. on
Avenue. Suit e A
P.O. Box 7020
included a Dream-Shop Planner (page 64), a sca led grid and a shop Pa(k~"bur , . WY 26102-7020
(30() .85·2647 Fox: (304) (20·9840
full of tool and cabinet templates, that you can use to design the F.mail: tditor@woodc.aflm&guin e.rom
shop you've always wanted while planning for future growth . On'in~; woodcraftma guln ... com

Finally, I'd be remiss if I didn't single out the key players who
rolled up thcir sleeves and provided the labor, in-depth knowledge,
and practical ideas that made our shop the hardworkin g space
it ultimately became. These include designer l3en Svec of Kelly,
Iowa, and, shown above, builders Gary Carter (Icft) of Harrisville,
West Virg inia, and Tim Birkeland of Waterford, Ohio.
As part of the magazine's comm itment to providing you with
top-in-the-industry info on building and improving your home
workshop, I s incerely hope you enjoy this dedicated issue. Here's
to making your favorite space the greatest place on earth.
Woodcro!! MaO{Jz;n t ltSSN :115l.2451, USf'S 014-
9 53) i. p~bli.hed in January. Mareh, Mav, July,
Septemb e r Jnd N'>II"rnb~r ~ "'; l>'i"l~d io th~
Uniled Stale. by Woodcraft Supply, LlC, 4420
f"merson Ave., Suitt . A. Pa'.~"bu'~, WV 26104.
Tel; {304148S·2647. Periodi~.l Postage paid ~t
Pa rk e "b~'11- 'NV, and at a dditional mailing offioe •.
Copyright 2009 by WotIdcraft Supp ly. llC . All rl, ht<
re,e r." d. POSTMASTER: Send a ddf~" C ~I"a ~ to
WOOdcraft Magazine, P.O. Bo. 70:20, P . r~ efsbut i.
WV 26102-71)20
Print~d in th~ USA
Safety first l Working wood (On be d~ng e fo~s.
Alw ~ ys m.~e ,hop ,.Ietv your Milt prioritv by
~' dini ~nd following th~ recommMdarion s of
your owner', man"al . , u,inll 3pproprl . te lIuard,
MId \~kty <1<"lcg , .nd m"intai nj,,~ .11 your
tool. properly. u,~ adequate .illht ~ nd hunn l
prot..~tion. PI..as~ note tha t fo' p" fI>O''''' 01
ill",trnive ( I. 'ity, g~lrds I nd other ,,'ety device.
may bl' f('m,wed from 1<l01, ,hown in phot"ll,aph '
and IIlu.tration. in thi' publication and others.

6 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009

News & Views
By Sharon Hambrick
Congrats, top toy makers
Orange county Woodworkers replicated these toys
hundreds of times over for their 2008 toy project.
Competition was keen, but the Orange County
(California) Woodworkers Association came
out on top in our Christmas Toy Story Contest.
After a D-Day (Distribution Day) breakfast at a
local drugstore, more than 30 members began
filling orders from 53 charities serving children
at risk, donating 4,800 wood toys crafted by SO
members during the year. They began 19 years
ago with 12 woodworkers producing 125 toys.
We only offered one prize, but the Cincinnati
(Ohio) Woodworking Club entry deserves
mention as first runner-up. Their project
grew from 20 toys 20 years ago to 2,200 toys,
memory boxes, and other items in 2008 donated
to four charities for needy, hospitalized, and
grieving children in Ohio and Kentucky.
... So. these two cabinelmakeB walk into a bar ."
8 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
Herringbone
tray with a
recycled past
Dave Erickson really
liked Craig Godsey's Recycling produced
herringbone serving th is "bonus" tray witn
tray (Oct/Nov 08) a unique pattern.
and made several
for Christmas gifts. Because Dave's frugal
side dislikes wasting anything, the Red Wing,
Minnesota, woodworker cut each of the waste
ends of the panels at 45°, glued them together in
a square deSign, and made trays out of them.
In the tray shown above, he glued different
kinds of waste corners together for an unusual
look and alternated different-colored corners.
Woods used include aspen, red oak, walnut, cherry,
and butternut. Sides and handles are cherry.
M ayan artists using
Woodcraft tools
At San Cristobal de Las Casas in Mexico, the Taller
Lenateros book and printmaking cooperative now
uses tools donated by Woodcraft Supply for a good
cause. The alliance of Mayan and mestizo women
and men supports about 30 families by selling
handcrafted prints and other items that celebrate
their heritage.
When American artist/author Judith Dupre
worked with the group, she saw the need
for tools they could not afford and asked
Woodcraft for a donation of V-parting tools
and U-gouges, which Woodcraft provided. Fur
more information, visit tlJllerienalems.com.
Speak Up!
Voice your comments on woodworking ideas by
writing to: News & Views · Woodcraft Magazine
P.O. Box 7020 • Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
editor@woodcraftmagazine.com
Visit woodcraftmagazine,com to view
project updates, Click on "Article
Corrections" on the Home Page Me nu .
 Tips & Tricks

TOP TIP
Two-piece drill press table setter
Using a hent piece of stiff wire (a piece of wire hanger
works) to check that:a dl'ill press chuck is perpendicular
to the table isn't entirely new, but adding a business
card to this familiar tip adds near micrometer-like precision
without the hassle of squinting to read a dial. To quickly
set the table. bend the wire so that its bottom end
sits just above the surface. If the wire can push
a business card across the top without skipping
over the card or touching the table, it means that
you're only a few thousandths of an inch from perfect.
(Most cards arc printed on .010"-thick, 10 poInt stock.)
This gojno-go gauge may not be accurate enough
for machining rocket parts, but I find it more than adequate
for most woodworking applications and easy enough to repeat
every time I adjust the height or tilt-angle on my table.
-Rrian Anderson, McLean, Virginia

Share a Slick Tip.

Roller stand wall rack
Folding roller stands see plenty of use at the tab le
Win Cash or a Prize! saw, drill press. thickness planer. etc., but
Here's your chance to help someone become they can be a nuisance when theY~'re .
a better woodworker and get rewarded not needed. To keep my roller
for the effort. Next issue's Top Tip will out oftraffic, I
receive a set of Wood River planes (Block cobbled ~.....""~
planes No.4 and No. 5) valued at $300. together
Runners-up will receive $125 for an illustrated a simple
tip; $75 for an unill ustrated one. Winning rack using 6
entries become the property of Woodcraft nails, glue, and
Magazine. Send your original ideas to: a few scraps of
Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. pine. The nails
Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 o r on the top of
ema il e dito r@woodcraftmaga zine.com . the braces keep
the roller from flipping
open or falling off.
-Mark Koritz,
St. Louis. Missouri

(Murk attached his rack permanently to

the wall, but you could a/so add a beveled
cleat system, such as W(/S USed in "Super-
Easy Workshop Cabinets" on PQge 28.)

12 woodcraftmagazine.com JLme 2009

Blade-friendly bench dogs
In our shop. bench dogs disappear almost as quickly as donuts.
OUf sol ution was to ma ke a large hatch of inexpensive dogs using
dowels lipped with vinyl tubing cut with a utility knife (or a table
saw or handsaw after fitted onto the dowel). The soft vinyl- ca pped
dowels will not damage plane blades, scrapers, or sandpaper and
are more grippy than meta l o r wooden dogs. If a dog is slight ly ta ller
tha n the s tock, simply touch the end against a belt sander or g ive
It a few swats w ith a block plane. When working w ith super-thin
stock on your henchtop, trim a n<.lrrower ring fro m the tubing
and replace your standard-sized tip.
Find t he dowels that fit your dog
holes before you buy the vinyl.
A foot of tubi ng (purchased
at home ce nters) will
make 6·8 dogs and
provide extra mater ia l
fo r replacement tips.
-Woodcra ft Magazine Editors

A Gallery
WL . r~ a W' II ~~' off~ring hand cn ftro
borne 3C'=<'Wlric1 and uniqu~ grft..
feuuri ng tir e fumilu "" of Gar~ C.o.rr~r.
T he (:;.-.u ntr ... C.abi,><:trn" k~: tmiIJOnal/'t'
r1"' rl~ IStll k ea~ IYth Ccntu 'l
furrlltul'f . unenor milh."rI<, and ...,11'
" ,III "'"'~ '" h,m... in,crlo".

IIlustrii tions : Chrj5 Glowacki June 2009 woodcraftmagallne.com 13

Tips & Tricks

Safer short-tailed tools

I think that one of the biggest
enemies of shop safety is
inconvenience. For example.
everybody knows that machinery
should be unplugged before doing
any work "under the hood,~ but when a plug's
at the other end of the shop, you may opt to
risk it every now and then in order to save
time. [fthis sounds familiar, you need this tip.
To eliminate the temptation-and potential
injury-of working whlle a tool is plugged
in, I've wired my workshop so that
the electrical receptacles are within
an arm's reach of my major power tools and
trimmed my machinery's power cords accordingly. With
this setup, unplugging my table saw and keeping the
exposed plug In sight during any set-up operations is as
convenient as reaching for a blade-changing wrench.
-Bill Sands, Lubeck. West Virginia

14 woodcraftmagazlne.com June 2009

Hot New Tools
The new, improved Unisaw
Delta Unisaw
More than four years in the
making. and more than 70
years in the waiting, Delta
has officially unveiled its new
Unisaw.
This American-made m1lchine style bevel ga~lge (accurate to
was redesigned from the ground one-ha lf degree), bi-level dust
up, or more accurately, tfunion extraction, adjustable-height
out. The un ique one-piece riving knife. split-design blade
casting, coupled with guard. Marathon motor, and a
an equa lly Biesemeyer fence. A few more
high-tech noteworthy extras: the saw
cast-iron offers an onboard storage
table. is drawer for blades, guards, and
the heart of other gear, and comes with
what makes a newly-designed premium
this saw one blade. The end result is a
of the most machine that may convince you
accurate to trade In your old Unisaw
saws on the for this solid step-up.
market. # 41240 5 $28 74.99
Jfyou Test er: Jim Nuckoll s
haven't yet (Editor's Note: We've requested
read about this saw's a sow for our own tests. Look for
features, the list is impressive: a new cabinet saw comparison
upfront controls. odometer- in our October issue.)

Extra hand for sheet goods

Leg Up Panel-Lift Table Saw Accessory
Unless J can enlist a willing with a minimal
shop assistant, I usually wind amount of musc:le.
up breaking down sheet goods The sheet pivots
on the floor with my circular higher than the
saw (see page 66). Ripping center poi nt of
plywood on the table saw a 1'-wide paneL
might be faster and produce so the plywood
a cleaner cut, but dead-lifting won't topp le unto
heavy sheets isn't easy to do your tabletop, hut
single-handedly, nor is it worth you can adjust
a trip to the chiropractor. the tension of
Enter the Leg Up. This lever the guide arm for
damps to the edge of your saw's additional control.
table or fence rail. A J-shaped #8 42 599 $49.99
hook holds the bottom of the Tester: Jim
panel while the mechanism Harrold
neatly pivots it onto your table
16 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009 Fea tured products are ilYlliable from Woodc raft Supply.
Stanley planes blend old with new
Stanley Sweetheart Planes
Having made millions otplanes,
chisels. and countless other
tools from the late 18th century
to the early 19405, Stanley had
estab li shed itself as America's
king oftoals. Unfortunately,
quality declined in the 19605
when the company set its sights
on the handyman crowd. But
here's the good news. If you aren't
lucky enough to own the planes
that put Stanley on tup, you can
Corrosion insurance for tools
Zerust Vapor Corrosion Inhibitors
You'll never beat that all-
pervasive monster, "rust," but
vapor corrosion inhibitors (VCls)
do a good job of keeping the
rascal at bay. VCls arc metal-
seeking molecules that bond
electrochemically with metal
surfaces, creating an invisible,
self-repairing skin that seals
out air and moisture. With a
solid track record in marine,
automotive, and electronic
industries, packaging the
chemical in woodshop-friendly
emitters is a no-brainer. I use
the large capsule in my plane
now buy a Sweetheart
for a sweet price.
The name hearkens
back to the old iron,
but these planes aren't
like what you'll find
in your grandfather'S
toolbox. Like other
premium planes, the
new Sweethearts are
made of "hammer safe"
ductile iron, W'·thick,A2 blades,
and fully-machined frogs and
soles. Roth the No. 62 and No.4
sport comfortable cherry totes,
adjustable mouths, and un iqu e
locking Norris-style adjusters.
The No.4 wins the ~most
improved" award. Unlike my
favorite Stanley Bailey (which
bears its heart on its blade), this
smoother plane is now a bevel-up
blade with a one-piece base and
cabinet, the smaller capsule
in my toolbox and router bit
drawer, and the drawer liners
to protect my measuring and
marking tools. $inl:e then.
my tool polishing days are
reserved for flca-market finds.
The downside? They don't
last forever. and there's no way
to tell when the VCls have left
the building. Depending on
the emitter, the rust-fighting
properties last for one to five
years. Rather than risk under-
protection. I mark "installed
on~ dates on my capsules and
June 2009
frog. The
new design
promises chatter-free
cuts, plus the ability to adapt
to figured woods by increasing
the blade's bevel angle. Such
versatility makes it a handy
additIon to my arsenal.
Priced slightly less than other
premium planes, you owe it to
yourselfto wrap your hands
around one before making any
additions to your tool collection.
#149859 No. 9 1/2 block
plane $99.99
#149860 No. 60 1/z low
angle plane $99.99
#149861 No.4 smoother
plane $179.99
#149862 No. 62 low-angle
jack plane 5179.99
Tester: loe Hurst~Wajszczuk
liners so that [ can pop in fresh
ones before they expire.
Liners:
#149663 12")( 72" $8.99
#149664 23" x 118" $19.99
Capsules:
#149661 VC6-2 $29.99
(6' coverage radius)
#149662 VC2-1 $6.99
(2' coverage radius)
Tester: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
woodcraftmagazine.com 17
Hot New Tools

More than a mini

Steel City Five-Speed Granite Mini Lathe
Substituting granite for cast bed length to turn spindles up to
iron, Steel City has created a 27" without an extension (longer
super solid. smooth-running than other lathes in this class).
lathe at a good price. The 6017G [n addition to being rustproof,
features a 1/2hp. totally enclosed, the granite bed makes for an
fan-cooled, five-speed extremely smooth-runn ing tool
motor; a 12" swing over rest. Thanks to all that gran ite.
the bed; and enough the lathe weighs in at
1611hs., enough to
dampen any v ibration
but, ad mittedly, less
portable t han most
metal minis.
#842721 $319.99
Tester: Jim Nuckolls

versatile new carving tools around.

With six locking edge tools. Carvin' Jack is a
complete kit in your pocket.
Each comes with a leather belt
mounted sheath and a custom
fit SlipStrop for keeping
edges sharp.
At just 3.5 ounces and
a dosed length of just
over 4 inches, Carvin' Jack
is the take -it -with-you pocket carver that could
become his new best friend.

Flexcut" Available at
CARVING TOOLS
FI~)(cut Tool Company Incorporated
81 0 S H ~ wthorn e Ori~ e, Erie , 1'>1, 1/»)Q9
W®DCRAFT
vi~it 8 retait location near you or onli ne ~t
800·524-9077 www.flexcut.com www.woodcrafLcom

18 woodcr aftmagazine.com June 2009

Joinery Made Simpl e
Router Dovetailed
Drawers Done Right
What the manual doesn't tell you
By Craig SentzJey
E ven if the process itself lsn't intimidating,
the prospect of a slew of drawers wil l convince
even die-hard handtoolers to put down the saw
and pick up their favorite router. And why not?
Hand-cut dovetails may be the hallmark affine
craftsmanship, but they're also a lot of work.
Most router-(ut dovetails aren't as attractive,
but the s peed and simplicity of the jig-cut joint
balances out the aesthetic shortcomings.
Despite this obvious advantage, many dovetail
jigs wind up gathering dust, while their owners
search for simpler joinery solutions, Whether it's
because of a vaguely-worded instruction manual,
Photos: Paul Anthony
or an overly-complex setup procedure, many
woodworkers think that router-cut dovetails
require too much brainwork. or they curse
t heir jig for failing to achieve a perfect fit.
To be fair, adjusting the jig and sett ing up the
router takes some time, but not nearly as much
as sawing and chiseling a few dovetail corners
by hand. By following the tips here, you'll be
able to set up your jig, rout a test corner, and
complete your first drawer in short order. You'll
soon discover that using a properly-tuned jig
and well-prepared stock to create snug-fitting
mating dovetails can be surprisingly simple.
Jun~ 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 19
Joinery Made Simple
Adjust drawer joints to work with you r jig. Good drawers start and end
with a half-pin and are symmetrical on the top and bottom edge.
Start with good stock
Ever hear lhe phrase, ~garbage
in, garbage ouU" With dovetail
jigs, stock preparation is
everything. You need to make
drawer material dead flat
and straight. Twisted, bowed,
Tip Alert
When preparing drawer stock,
stick with standard thicknesses.
By always planing fronts to W',
and sides and backs to '/2", you
can set your jig router once and
forget it.
Make and save a full-width sample corner from your jig to qUickly
determine which box or drawer widths work best.
20 woodcraftma@azine.com June 2009
or cupped boards result in
twisted or ill-fitting drawers.
For this reason, jOint and
thickness-pliJne your material
carefully. Because even minor
snipe can cause grief in fitting
joints, I suggest trimming a
couple of inches off the ends
to eliminate a potential misfit
before clitting parts to length.
Decide on the drawer width
next. A dovetailed drawer shou ld
start and end with a half-pin, as
shown in Ph oto A. Half-tails not
only look funny, but are weak
and likely to splinter off. The
Simplest solution is tn design
Figure 1: Drawer Layout
l Fron~ 2\
Marking the inside faces of the
parts to indicate matching corners
and the bottom groove can prevent
miscuts and help with assembly.
your projects around your jig;
this often means less than a 1/.'
difference in drawer Widths, so
your drawer ends with ha lf-pins .
[ keep a sample corner ( Photo 8 ),
and use it to make adjustments
to drawer openings to suit my jig,
(If the width is nonnegotiable, I
put the half-tail on the bottom,
so it won't be as noticeable
when the drawer is open.)
Accuracy is equally important
when clltting parts to length .
Check your saw to make sure
that it's cutting perfectly square .
Next, use a stop to ensure that
you cut all the duplicate parts
to the same exact length. Saving
money by using less-than-
perfect stock is a smart move,
but be vigilant. Small knots in
the middle of a part are okay,
but a knot on the end may blow
out when routed. Don't let that
inch of material ruin a drawer.
After cutting the parts to size,
lay them out. label the parts as
shown in Figure 1, and draw a
linc on each part that represents
the drawer bottom groove. This
will help you position the parts in
their correct locations on the jig.
Ready your router
Better bits and bushings can
rna ke a big difference. If your
jig and router will allow it, step
up to a ll/··~hank bit You'll get
less deflection, chaner, and
burning, resulting in better-
fitting, stronger joints. Before
you buy, double-check your
owner's manual to make sure
you get the correct bit and
bushing combination. While
most jigs employ a 14" hit, a
few use a 7" hit (Photo e).
Next, buy yourself a better
bushing. The problem with
most stock bushings is that they
don't offer a means of centering
them on the router base. I f it's
even slightly off, the bushing
tan cause a mysterious misfit 7 Ways To Juice-Up Your Jig
where the tails fit too loosely on
The difference between a dovetail j ig that's reached for day after
one side and too tightly on the
day and one that gathers dust is in the details. After years of using
other. A precision guide bushing,
my jig, and trying ou t several others, I've come up w ith a few simp le
upgrades t hat no jig shou ld be without. More e"pensive jigs may
already incorpo rate some of these features, but you're likely to find
an upgrade or two that will make your dovetail jig even better.

1. Mount the jig onto a la rge board $0 you can clamp it

D Nyloc nuts or apply a drop of Loctite to the studs
The upper drawer was made
r
with a bit. The lower drawer
was made with a 14" bit, which
has a more traditiona l look.
securely to your bench. Copy setup info on th e board so
you won't need to dig outthe instruction manua l.
2. If your jig requires a set-up board for lining up the
stops and template, make it, label it, and keep this
board with the jig for future re ference.
3. Apply adhesive-backed sandpaper to the faces of the
damping bars to ensure th at parts don't shift in mid-cut.
4. Small wing nuts or locking knobs can become uncomfortable during
long sessions at the jig. Replace them with larger aftermarket knobs.
S. If there is play between the slot in the template bracket and
the mounting stud, mark th e bracket and pOSi tion the template
in the same spot every time you lock down the template.
6. Replace the factory template-adjustment nuts with
to keep the nuts from slipping during use.
7. Tape notes on the damping bars to rem ind yourself
about part placement and stock orientation.

June 2009 woodcraftmagaline.com 21

Joinery Made Simple
Inserting the alignment pin
into the collet ensures that the
guide bushing is centered.
like the one shown in Photo D,
uses a pin to ensure that it's
centered on your router's collet.
You'tl notice that I've left any
mention of the router for last.
I've found that any good router
can make great dovetails. If your
budget allows, treat yourself to
a designated dovetail router.
Compared to the time I previously
spent fine-tuning the height and
making test cuts, keeping the
bushing and bit installed on a
designated router is a bargain.
Tip Alert
Prevent the locking ring from
backing off the guide bushing
during use by wrapping it with
Teflon tape.
22 woodcraftmaSaline.com June 2009
Score the side first, then plunge the router into the template'S fingers.
Focus on keeping the router flat and maintaining contact between
the bushing and template fingers.
Routing the joint
Set your parts up as they would
be arranged in the drawer, then
lay them flat lind mark them
as shown in Figure 1. These
notes not only ensure correct
orientation but will also assist
with later assembly. Insert a
pair of mating corners in the
jig. Drawer fronts and back~
are clamped horizontally on
top of the jig; sides are clamped
vertically to the front of the jig.
All parts are positioned outside-
face down (the groove lines for
the bottom should always face
up and out) . Be careful to aUgn
the part~, making ~ure that
both are fully seated against
the stops and that the cnd of
the tail board is flush with the
top of the pin board before
tightening the clamping bars.
Routing the joint isn't difficult.
but a few tips can help. First,
make a light scoring cut from
right to left. This light dimb-
cut prevents chip-out on the
inside face of the pin board.
Now, routing left to right,
as shown in Photo E. move
the router in and out of the
fingers. To avoid any chance
of bushing-related problems,
make a habit of keeping the
router handles in the same
position, when moving in and
out of the template. As you're
driving the router, listen to the
motor to help you determine
the best feed rate. If the whine
begins to sound labored, slow
down. (Don't go too slowly,
or you may burn the stock.)
The most important thing to
remember is to keep the router
base flat on the template. When
you reach the end of the cut, do
not lift the router up! Turn the
router off and wait until the
 Tip Alert
Check the bit frequently when
routing resinous woods. Resin
w ill cause burning, sloppy cuts,
and ill-fitting joints . To remove
buildup, wipe the bit with
acetone and a Q-tip_
bit stops before removing it
from the jig. Make sure you've
routed into every finger before
releasing the parts from the jig.
You're now ready to test the
fit. Compare your test joint
to the joints shown, right,
and adjust your bit and/or jig
accordingly. Do a second test
joint, and you shou ld be ready
to start serious drawer work.
4 Adj ust ments for Fine Fit
All j igs, regardless of manufacturer, have fou r simp le.
but important adj ust ments t ha t need to be
made for the best joint fi t s. _ _r"~'"
Joint too tight: Raise the bit
Slightly to make the cut shallower.
Joint too loose: Lower the bit
slightly to make t he cut deeper. Bear
in mind that glue ta kes up space and swells
wood fibers. When you ma ke your test cut s,
you'll want your parts to fit together sn ugly. but not hamm er-tight.
Sockets too deep: Adj ust t he tem plate closer towards you.
Be su re to adjust both nut s equally in small increments. (For jigs
wit h a router base fence, move the fence for ward sligh tly.)
Sockets too shallow: Adjust t he tem plate away from you.
(For jigs with a router base fence, move the fence back slightly.)

Final assembly
After dovetailing your corners,
cut the grooves for drawer
bottom. Center the groove in
the lowest socket (between the
half-pin and the full pin) ofthe Too tight Too loose Too deep Too shallow
drawer front so that it won't
he visible after assembly_
To assemble the drawer, apply
glue to two corners at a time.
Apply glue to the sockets on one
end of the front and back boards
and install a side. Next, slide in
the drawer bottom. Now apply
glue to the remaining socketed
ends and install the side piece, as
shown in Photo F. Use clamps to
press the tails into the sockets.
and then check for square . •

Tip Alert
Cut the bottom 1M' shy of the
full length and width dimensions
of the drawer-box groove to
ensure easy assembly. Use a stiff brush to work glue into the sockets and then install the
side. Square up the assembly and clamp it until the glue sets.

Jun e 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Welcome To Our New Workshop
Your key source now and in the future for ideas and projects
by Jim Harrold

I •

THE WORKS!;IOP
dit~~~
Si ze: 30 " SO' with a 9' cailing
Const ru[;tion : Concrete b lock and
insulated 2 JI. 4 stud walls; double
layers of 0/1,' drywall or "I, ' drywall
and V$" plywood (for screwing
items to the wall anywhere along its
I n this special issue of Woodcraft Magazine we are excited to length 800va 4').
introduce you to our new 30 x SO' workshop. Why? 8ecause we now H ea tin g and c ooling : Natural
have a place that lets us generate a truckload of workshop ideas, gas forced-air furnace and air
techniques, and project plans for making your shop more organized, conditioner; room tl1ermostaticall y
controlled.
efficient, and-dare I say it-3 pretty cool place to hang out. What
Li g htin g: Ten S' fluorescent lights
you noti ce right away from glancing at the photo!'> i~ that we have operated by a single onloff T-8
outfitted our shop with three distinctly different cabinet areas built switch; 32-watt bulbs.
on three budgets. These include the MDF workshop, the melamine Electri c al: 200-amp service
workshop, and the birch plywood workshop. Here, price differences panel-fourteen 110 ootlets and
seven 220 outlats with two of each
come down to sheet goods, hardware. and countertop costs.
ceiling-mounted.
Where the cabinets do not differ is in their genera! construction.
Du st C oll ection : Oneida 3 hp Pro
Everything you see is built from the same basic 24"_ and 32"-wide base Series 1500 with cartridge filter.
and wall cabinet plans. As you'll discover in "Super-Easy Workshop metal fittings, and spiral metal
Cabinets" on page 28, we took the mystery out of cabinet building by piping (6 " and 7" main trunk. with 4'
and 5" branch lines).
going with the simple 32-mi!1imeter system. [fyou can count to 10,
Air co mpres sor: Porter-Cable 3
you can build these cabinets, though it he lps to have an inches-to- hp, 60-galion air compressor.
millimeter measuring tape. Now let's look at the three contrasting
areas and our shop's specs, avera!! features, and floor plan.

24 woodcraftmaeazine.com June 2009

Three hardworking workshops from one great plan
Whether you're adding storage to the back. aryour garage or outfitting a dedicated workshop building, chances are,
one of these cabinet choices will suit your style and wallet. As you can see we used a cleat system fur hanging our
wall cabinets and tool boards.

1. MDF
Fast and low-dollar MDF-This
handsome workshop could easily be
built in a few weekends for under
$700. Constructing the cases with
Confirmat screws (recommended
for MDF) speeds the work, as
does cutting out and hanging the
frame less slab doors . While one
cabinet contains four quick-to-
assemb le Metal Box drawers (Inset),
all the others contain shelves. In
other words, more simple slabs. We
painted the cabinets with two coats
ufGeneral Finishes milk paint (one
part outback brown, three parts snow white), and topped the base units with
a double-layer MOF countertop, edged with 314 maple, This we finished with
ft

two coats of clear water-based polyurethane and a coat of paste wax. Map le
pulls (purchased through the VanDyke catalog) provide a nice accent wh ile
matching the edging.

2. Melamine
Mid-range. e asy-t o-cl ean mela mine cabinets-
Smooth. white laminate surfaces set this workshop
apart. The v." Marlite panels in the maple cabinet
door frames let you jot down dimensions, phone
numbers, and more with erasable markers, while
the thin sheet-metal-on-Marllte door panels let you
pin up paper deSigns, receipts, and cut lists with
magnets (Inset). Underneath the counter, drawers,
shelves, and pull-out trays provide versatile storage
in the base cabinets.

3. Birch Plywood
Showy. premium ca binets with a n all-wood look-r.onslder birch plywood cabinets for a touch
of class and craftsmanship. We paid $15 more for a sheet ot birch plywood ($43) than we did
for a sheet of MDF. We outfitted the base cahinets with Metal-Box drawers as well as shelves
and pull-out trays for storing portable power tools. Full-extension slides
for trays let you take advantage ofthe cabinet storage room while the
165" full-overlay hinges on the base cabinet doors provide clearance (left). To further dress
out this workshop, we topped th~ base cabinets with a hard-wearing,lYz"-thick by 12'-long
laminated maple countertop. Framed glass doors for one wall cabinet let you view prized
planes or collectibles. Fi n ish for the cabinets consists of three spray-coats of General Finishes
Satin High Performance Water-Based Topcoat, a tough, fast-drying product with acrylic and
urethane resins. (See more on workshop finishes on page 54.)

Opening pholo: Doug Rowan June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 25

Creating a first-class woodworking environment
Complementary
tool boards
For easy access to frequently
used hand tools, we included
perforated hardboard tool boards
that you build to fit and hang on
t he beveled wall cleat. Un ique to
this sys tem is that we did away
with commercial metal huoks
and hangers and made custom
hangers from scrap. (You'll
find a variety of the hangers
on page 42.) Sma ll rectangles
of perforated hardboard back
the hangers, a llowing you to fix
them to t he tool boards w ith
plastic wall anchors and sc rews.
This approach enables you to
quickly relocate the holders
as needed. Better still, they gates terminate each branch
stay put when secured, unlike duct line, allowing the system
metal hangers which often fall to effectively service any two
off when tools are removed. major machines simultaneously.
(See ollr story on whole-shop
Dust collection and dust-collection on page 46.)
healthy shop air
Our whole-shop metal-pipe dust- Comfort and good looks
collection system fr om Oneida underfoot
provides swift and complete The basement where we located
collection of sawdust and chips at our shop has a concrete floor
every floor machine. The cyclone that, as many of you know, raises
dust- havoc on your feet and legs.
collector We wanted something easier
unit (Pro on the dogs so we contacted
Series 1500) the Southern Forest Products
features a Association for suggestions. They
3 hp Baldor recommended Southern yellow
motOr with pine flooring and put us in touch
an external with Grizzly Forest Products.
cartridge As soon as the walls were up,
filter. It sits we installed 1 x 6 tongue-and-
outside the groove vertical-grain flooring
shop along and finished it with four coats
one wall. of Genera l Finishes Satin Water-
To turn it Based Top Coat. (See how to put
on we use in a workshop wood floor on page
key-fob 56.) Floo r mats In front of the
remotes which we hang at major machines and workbenches
convenient locations. Blast add even more comfort.

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR WORKSHOP SPONSORS

Putting a workshop together from scratch is no small feat , and we would be remiss if we did not include
a special thanks to the sponsors who helped make our dream a reality. Here arc the participants:
Adjustable Clamp
Assonmll-nt of Clamps
www.adjustableclamp.com
Bessey Tools
Assortment of Clamps
www.beueyrools.com
Oanco
furo Hinges, llOe & 16So
www.woodt<!chnology.com
Oelta/Porter.Cabl@
2 Random·Orbit Sanders
2 Tr im Rou te rs
Drum Sander
6·Gallon Portable Air Compressor
GO·Gallon 240·Volt Air
Compressor
www.delraportercable.com
DeWalt
13" rhicknt>u Planer
www.dewalt.com
EarleK
HVlP Spray Station Pro
www.ear/ex.com
Festool
Kape~ I(S 120 Sliding
Compound Mitt>rsaw
Oean Tech Vacuum
Domino Joining System
MFI( 700 Trim Router
Plunge Router
MFTj3 Multifunction Table
www.{estoolf)$o.com
Forrest Blades
Saw Blades
www·forresrblades.cam
Franklin International
Glues & Adhesives
www.tifebond.com
Freud Hafele
Router Bits & Saw Blades Metal Box Drawer System
Biscuit Joiner FiKing SrackeH
3 1/. HP Plunge Router www,hofelt ,comjus
Doweling Machine
lnera
www.freudtools.com
Measuring, Markmg, and
General Finishes POSitioning Tools
Wood Coatings www.incro.com
Water·based Finishes
JOS
Oil·based Finishes
www.generalfinishes.com Air·Tech 1S0ER High·Efficiency
Air filtration System
General International www.jdsroo/s.com
hcalibur Scrollsaw
Jet
Overarm Blade Guard
Portable Dust Co! lection
8(:nchtop Mor~ser
www.general.ca Belt Oi,c Sander
14" BandS<lw
Grizzly Forest Products 6" Jointer
Tongue·and-groove Southern 12" JOinterjPlanerComoo
Yellow Pine Flooring Orj!( Press
www.grilllyforest.com www.jettools.com

26 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009

The Floor Plan
Key to any woodworking shop is the arrangement
oftoo)s, storage, and workbenches. In many shops,
evervthlng revolves around the table saw. That holds
true in our shop as well with the SawStop table saw
front and center. A few steps away, however, sits the
Jet jOinter/planer. This tool combination needs to
stand together for ease of milling project stock into
parts. We made sure that we had ample space at
the infeed and outfeed ends of these machines for
running long stock through. The Makita mitersaw also
re sides near the middle of the room for sizing longer
parts to length. Similarly, the Rikon bandsaw sits near
the lathe work station for prep-cutting turning blanks,
as well as resawing.
In addition, we created tool stations where cabinets
containing accessories are within an arm's reach.
Bandsa",,)
We built a shallow 6Y."·deep cabinet for drill bits
ncar th e Jet drill press, and a similar cabinet hangs
on the wall above the Pinnacle router table. A set
of cabinets dedicated to sharpening features a
countertop of plastic laminate to catch the drips and
Qi
spills of oil and water.
We located our workbenches to anow plenty of
walk-around room for working on a project, and we
dedicated one end of the room for storing lumber
and sheet goods. A corner of the shop is set up for
turning. While no shop is perfect, this one has more
than enough bells and whistles to make working in it
a joy. If you've been fe -thinking your current shop or
planning a new one from scratch, turn to page 64 for
our pull-out Dream·Shop Planner. Then, plan your
shop to comp lement your woodworking interests.
By doing so, Vou will have taken the very first step in
creating a bragging-rights workshop, one that finally
and fully addresses your project-building needs. •

Kreg Plnnade SawStop Teknatool Internation al

Pocket HOlt System
www.krtQtool.com
Malswit ch
Unlve~al featherboard
MagJlg Unive~al Base
Combo Kit
MagJigs
www.mogswirch.com.ou
Makita
10" Slider Compound Mitef'>aw
18·Volt Cordless Drill Driver
Trim Router
www.ma/(iwtools.com
Oneida
Stationary Dust Collection
System/ConsLiltanon +
Installation
www.oneldo-oir.com
Padco
FlOOr Finishing Tools
www.podco.com
Measuring & Marking Tools cablnet·sty le Tab le Saw Nova DVR lathe
ROLlt !!f Table 52" Extension Table Assembly www.teknotool.rom
Premium Coping Sled Extra Blade Cartridges
Tormek
http://www.woodcraft· www.soWStop.com T-3 Sharpeninil System
com/Jeoruredbrand. Sjobergs www.wrmek.com
ospx ?brooo""pinnae/e Elite 2500 Workbench & Cabinet
Triton
Powermatfc Combo Oscillating Spindle Sander
10" Table Saw, lY. HP DUO Bench Cabinet Combo
2X HP Router
18" Variable Speed Drill ?res~ www.sjobefQs.com
www.tritan.com
www.powermotic.com Stanley Bostitch Whit eside
Rikon Portable Compressor
Router Bits & Bushmils
14~ Deluxe Bandsaw with Fence Pneumatic Nailer
www.whitesiderourerbits.com
12" Disc Sander www.bastitdl.com
www.rl/rontoo/s.rom WoodRlver
Steel Cit y Planes & Chisels
Rockw ell 13" Portable Planer with
www.woodcro/t.com
lB-Volt Lithium Tech Cordless Helical Head
Drill/Driver S-speed Granite Mini Lathe Wo od ha ve n
www.roc/(welltoo/s.com 10" Granite Table Saw Metric Shelf Pin Jigs
www.steelcitytoolworks.com www.woodhoven.com

June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 27

Super-Easy
-
Workshop Cabin
Frameless construction
makes these base and
wall units simple to build
and customize.
Designer: Ben Svec
Builde rs: Ti m Birkeland
and Gary Carter
Writer: Tim Snyder

L ike kitchens, a good home workshop

requires plenty of cab inet and cou nter
space. Shop cabinets not only help
keep you organized, but also keep tools,
accessories, and suppUes safe and dust-
free until needed.ldeally, workshop
cabi nets must be rugged, adaptable, and not
complicate d (or expensive) to build. Of course, it's
nice if they also look good, since their appearance
sets the tone for what goes on in the shop. Jfyou like
these priorities, you'll love the cabinets featured
here. They're designed to give you a wide range
of choices in terms of materials, counlertnps, and
configurations. Whether you elect to bu ild YOLlr
cabinets from MDF, melamine-coated particleboard
(Mep), or hardwood plywood (we used birchJ, the
step-by-step techniques shown on the following
pages remain the same. Be sure to review
"Woodsense: Choosing Sheet Goods," on page 66.
A lillIe knowledge about choosing and processing
plywood, MDF, and other panel products will go a
long way when you start building cabinets.
How many cab inets do you need, and what's
the best combination of base and wall cabinets?
Our special workshop planner (see page 64) will
help you arrange the major machines and work
stations in yOLlr shop and locate your cabinets.
Note: Check out the Convenience-Plus Buying
Guide on page 39 for a list ufthe materials ond
tools used tu build these cabinets. You'll need
these three key items early: the Woodhaven Metric
Shelf Pin jig, the FastCap Metric/Standard 12'
Tape Measure, and the Kreg Pocket-Hole jig.

28 woodcraltmagazine.com Ju ne Z00 9
 The construction techniques stav the same, but the material used to bund these
cabinets can \/ary, based on you r priorities. Here are the details to consider
when selecting which panel product to use for your workshop.

Economical and fast: painted MDF cabinets.

doors, and drawer fronts ($27.43 for a % )( 49 )(
97" sheet). You save money and build-time since
doors and drawer front s are si mple slabs of MDF.
No edgin g needed. The downside is that MDF
doesn' t stand up we ll unde r moist cond itions,
nor is it as durable as MCP or plywood.

Affordable and pre/in{shed: melamine-coated partideboard

{MCP} cabinets, doors, and drawer fron ts 1$33.21 for a Yo )(
49 )( 97" sheet}. This is a good middle-of-the-road choice with
a build-time just a little longer than you'd have with MDF
(since particleboard edges need to be fi nished with edge
banding). The fa ctory-applied melamine coating cleans easily,
is super-d urable, and the light color brightens up any shop.

TOp of the line: birch plywood cabinets, maple

frame -and-panel doors with birch plywood panels
($42.88 for a Yo" )( 4' x S' sheet). If you want shop
cabinets with an a ll-wood look, this is the way to go.

What's so great about frameless cabinets?

H
Frameless cabinets (somet imes called "Euro-s tyle
or ~32mm system~ cabinets) were first popularized
in Europe. They rely on a series of holes spaced on
32mm centers for mounting hinges, drawer slides,
shelfpms, and other hardware. For best results,
you need a pl unge router, guide bushing, Smm
router bit. a nd template to make the holes. To speed
up t he cabinet-building process, we went with a
frameless cabinet approach. Doing so eliminates a
lot of building steps and introduces you to a system
you'Ulikely use again and again. Consider these
advantages for going fra meless:
• Unlike face -frame cahinets, na space is lost where frame-
less cabinets are joined together.
• Identically spaced hales enahle you ta quickly install and
easily reposition shelves, drawers, and pull-out trays.
• Frameless cabinets eliminate the time ond expense of
constructing and installing face frames. Instead, exposed
plywood edges are covered with inexpensive iron-on edging
(see Photo £).
• The concealed "Euro-hinges" used in frameless cabinets
inscall and adjust mnre easily than other types afhinges
(see photo q).
Witho ut further a do, let's get bu ilding.

June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 29

Size and prepare the panel parts
(NOTE: The photos show the
construction sequence for a 24"·
wide "smuW bose cahinet. The
same steps apply for the larger
3r-wide base and wall cabinets.)
1 Referring to the Cut List,
cut ease sides CAJ. bottoms (B),
stretchers (e), and backs (D) for
all of the base cabinets you plan
to build. Sec the base and wall
cabinet construction details in
Figures 1-3. By using the Cutting
Diagram, you can efficiently
get the most out of a full sheet
of material, leaving very little
waste. Recruit a helper to heft
material, if necessary, and
make Sllre your table saw has Clamp the line-boring jig to the bottom and
solid outfced support to make front edge of the cabinet side. Note how
cuts safely and accurately. the stops establish the jig's location {I nset}.
2 Fit a 3ja" guide bushing and
a Smm-diameter upcut spiral

Figu re 1:
24" Base cabinet exploded view bit in a plunge routel~ adjusting
n"
full-overl ~y
the bit cutting depth to make
12mm- (or W'-) deep holes. Next,
hinge

F'
'/4X 1/4"
snugly clamp a metric line-boring
grQOWs, (or shelf-pin) jig designed for lise
centered
~'I " W ",II
with a plunge router to the front
and bottom edges of the cabinet
sides (A) as shown in Photo A.
37mm
hl Note how the jig stops fit snugly
to the workpiece underneath
31" in the Inset. You will find that
l\ I,", ,",
Smm "'" this jig lets you make evenly-
spaced rows of boles along the
inside front and back edge of
C 22'1>"
the cabinet sides for the hinges,
shelf pins, and drawer slides.
3 Now, starting at one end of the
B","" I #8 x 1'/,"
" coarse
"'-.t..!I pocket'screw -Note: DIstance betwe(!n front ~nd
jig, insert the router's bushing in
r""r line bored holes is 480mm an alignment hole and plunge-
exactly. Also, cabiets with pull-.wt
trays require lSs' full-overlay hinges bore a 12mm-deep hole in the
cabinet side (A) as shown in Photo
B. Continue plunge-boring the
remaining holes, adjusting the
clamps as necessary so they don't
interfere with the routing process.

30 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009

 metric
-~ sheHpin

Plunge-bore the holes in the inside faces of the cabinet Re move the jig's edge stops, relocate the end stop, and use
sides, moving the tool from jig hole to jig hole after the a spacer to position the second (back) row of holes 480mm
plunge cycle is complete. on center from the first. Double-check your hole spacing and
alignment after making your spacer, before boring the holes.

4 Make a 32"-\ong shop-made
spacer from hardboard and
%~- square stock (Figure 2 Detail) .
Remove the edge stops from
the jig. Then clamp it and the
line-boring Jig along the back
edge of the cabinet side and
measure to make sure the holes
are centered at 480mm from the
front row as shown In Photo C.
Now bore the back row of holes.
5 Using a rabbeting bit in the
router or a table saw dado set,
cut l/.!." rabbets 1h:" deep on th e
back in side faces of the sides (A),
bottom (B), and top rear stretcher
(C) for the 1h"-thi ck ba ck (D) .
6 Mark evenly-spaced layout
lines on the bottom face of cabinet
bottoms (E) a long each end for
pocket holes. Mark layout lines
for a pair of pocket holes on the
top faces of stretchers (C). Next,
d a mp the pocket-hole jig in place
on your layout Hnes and bore the
holes as shown in photo D. A base
ca binet requires 10 pocket hol es
to secure the bottom to the sides,
(5 per ~i d c) and four pocket holes
to secure each stretcher to the
sides at the top (Figures 1 and 2).

Figure 2:
32" Base cabinet
exploded view
/1--- -I --
31 1

!-"::, - s
.._r_
_--.-
Pocla!t screw

-
"-
...~ .

32 " 0 Bore five evenly-s paced pocket

holes along the ends of the bottom
Metil! bo~(f) for joining the case sides.
\ drawer 5Y5tem

\ Spacer detail
"- I
~

2V/.·,
AdJUSld,_
k"1J.. widt h, to wll

t '- ofAddbottom
1/. · wldlh on bottom
dr~wer
(ilnd 1/, " 10 lOP of lOP d~rl 3,.. x 3,.. x 32"
MDF
~I/Z·
-1

June 2009 woodcrilflmilgazine.com 31

 Figure 3:
Wall cabinet exploded view
I 1 23'/ "__...
r -I
31/>" lL' tD_ - =
L *Thkkness of )/0" plywood
f"
'/1" rabbets
'/,"deep,~~=_:~~::':':"~/'i' E~::;;
3$mm hole
VI" deep
)
3" wir@
pull
q I
7 Cut edge banding to rough
length for the front edges of
sides (A), bottoms (8), and
stretchers (C). A good rule is to
cut strips about 2" longer than
the finished lengths of the parts
in the Cut List. Then clamp the
cabinet part in a bench vise or
use handscrews so the front edge
stands up vertically. NOTE: l[you
haven't used edge banding before,
you're in/or a pleasant .'>urprise.
Finish the front edges of parts
with iron-on edging. Move the
iron slowly across the edge as
the thermosetting glue melts and
adheres the edging to the plywood.
32 woodcraftmagazine.com
_ -1
Cleats & spacer
23'/1" J7tnm ,
r ··
or .. I r "~ side view
I
r~-~',II'-"'-t '10-
" / . " gro()~~.
deep " •
II
I
Smm holes. .
1/2' deep \ :
.: :
! Wall
#8 x 11/1" flat head
wood sc rew "
,0,
0,
~ cabi net
,
"
j
I'·
\iI
, .
32mm
110' fu ll-overla
hinge
Because it offers a qllick and the iron, as shown in Photo E.
economical wily tu hide plywuud Make sure that a small amount
and melamine edges, edge banding of edge banding overhangs
is often used on Euro-style cabinets, at both ends, so YOLl can trim
butyoll'll also find it useful on it flush. Move the iron slowly
other projects as well. Melamine along the edging to activate the
edges can be finished with vinyl thermosetting adhesive backing
edge banding, which applies and adhere it to the plywood.
just like wood edge banding. After adhering the band to the
B Tack one edge of the edge plywood, preSs itdown to the
banding to the plywood by edge, using either <l rubber
applying moderate pressure with roller or scrap of hardwood,
9 Trim the edge banding flush
with the sides of the plywood,
using an edge-b<tnding trimmer,
as shown in photo F. Trim the
ends flush with a l"-wide chisel
or a sharp utility knife. Repeat
this edge-b<lnding sequence
on all the parts that will have
exposed edges after assembly.
a Tip Alert
Use an edge-banding trimmer to trim Don't have an edge-banding iron?
both edges in one pass. Beginning at Use a regular clothes iron set to
one end, squeeze the trimmer and "cotton" to activilte the adhesive.
push it forward, creating twin curls
as shown.
June 2009
Assemble the cases
I If making several cabinets.
do your back a favor by building
an inexpensive knockdown
assembly table to have a work
surface that's dead flat and at a
comfortable working height. See
Figure 4 and the accompanying
sidebar for complete plans
for a knee-high table.
2 Next, gather the parts needed
to build the cabinet. For the Use a pocket-hole right~angle clamp Apply glue, then drop in the back
base cabinet, you'll need two to secure the case bottom against the panel (0). Clamp the case as needed
sides (A), one bottom (B), two side while driving screws to hold the to pull it tight to the panel and
stretchers (e). and one back (0). joint. Similarly attach the stretchers. secure the back with finish nails.
3 Place bottom (8) and side (A)
front edges down on a flat surface. the stretchers (e) to the sides 4 Check the case for square.
apply glue, and butt and clamp with glue and pock~t sc rews, and then attach the back (DJ
their ends together. (We used a Note: You' ll use two pocket using glue and 11/4" finis h nails
Kl'eg H.ight-Angle Clamp for a tight screws where stretchers con neet (Photo H). Because It is sized to
fit.) Now screw the bottom to the to case sides. Wall cabinets are fit into the rnbbetted open ing.
side with l1A" pocket-hole screws built with top panels (8) instead the back helps square-up and
(Photo G). After pocket-screwing of stretchers and also receive strengthen the cabinet.
the bottom [0 both sides, attach two pocket screws at each end.

1/2 X 48 x 48" MOF 118 x 11/_"

top Ind bo,.,m or .Ul··.. ••.. 'e... ··~
Start Smart: Knockdown 1-ply plVwood
"",til tile lood
Assembly Table fate up
Figure 4:
This easy-ta-build table provides a strong. Knockdown
flat, and solid work surface. What's more, Assembly Table
it break s down quickly and stows eaSily
when not in use, as shown at right.
The assembly table's base is made
from four pieces of construction-grade
plywood slotted to interlock. The torsion-
bOI( top is made by sandwiching a square
grid of % )( 1}S" pine dividers and outer )/_ .. t l /2 x
OUlerfrlme
frame members between two pieces
of MOF. We used %"·thick MDF to
make the torsion-box top. but you can q •••• _--_.-

substitute )S" seven-ply plywood and

shave a few pounds without sacrificing
strength. Give the top of your cabinet
assemb ly work surface a few coats )/_ X gl/l" notches.
~entered
of polyurethane followed by a wax
topcoat. This makes it easy to remove
any dried glue and prevents glued-up
cases from sticking to the work surface.

June 2009 woodcrilftmagazine.com 33

Three ways to trick out base cabinets
One of the great advantages
of32mm cabinets is that you
can easily trick them out with
different door, drawer, and shelf
configurations. The holesyou
drilled earlier in your case sides
hoJd door hinges, shelf supports, or
drawer slides, making instaflation
fast. Now, cllstomize the interiors
with these three storage options.
Shelves provide generalized storage,
drawers offer dedicated storage,
and pull-out trays ore ideal for
portable power tools
Option 1: Simple Shelves
1 Cut shelves (EJ from %"
plywood. MDF, or MCP, depending
on the sheet goods you're llsing.
To make the shelves easier to
slide in, cut them 14" shorter than
the cabinet's inside dimension.
2 Edge-band the front edges
of each shelf (not MOF), just as
you did when working on the
cabinet case parts. Then fit shelf
supports in the holes inside the
tabinet at your selected shelf
height and install the shelves.
2 Cut the parts for each Metal in Photo I. Drive #6 x ·'/H panhead
Box drawer, Subtract E4" from screws through holes in the side
the cabinet opening to get the flanges and into the bottom.
required width for the drawer 4 Attach the back (I), using the
hottom (K) and back 0). For a holes in the back flanges. Drive
233,4" deep cabinet, make the a single screw through the back
drawer bottom 21 5/6" long. edge of the bottom and into the
Subtract !/a" from the outside back, so that the hottom won't
width of the cabinet to get the sag. Finally, fasten the two angle
finished width of the drawer front brackets to the front of the metal
so that the ends don't rub against sides and attach the drawer front.
adjacent drawers or cabinet doors. S Fasten both drawer slide tracks
(If you are making the drawer to the inside of the cabinet. The
fronts from birch plywood or predrilled rows of Smm holes
melamine, edge-band the edges.) make it easy. Drive the 5mm Euro
3 Assemble the drawer box by screws through holes in the tracks
screwing the drawer bottom (K) and into the holes already made
to the Metal Box sides as shown in the sides as shown in Photo J.
Figure 5:
Meta I Box drawer
l
~ Angle bra<:ket
\ """'-. 291/~" for large cabinet \
3" 211/z" for small cabinet ~~
f\ " ,-
(3

Option 2: Kit-Built Drawers

1 Measure the cabinet to cut
drawer fronts (F-l), backs (I), "'~-~#6~3/~"
and bottoms {K). As shown in I panhead screw

Figure 5, the Metal Box system

allows you to build drawers of
just about any size using factory-
made metal sides that incorporate
slide rollers (see sidebar on page
35). As per the Cut List, the
bottom and back of the drawer
are cut from %" plywood. The
front can be made from the same
material used for the cabinets
or, to eliminate edge-banding,
step up to solid wood. NOTE:
Attach the yj" plywood bottom by
II
Fasten the drawer runners to the case
MDF cabinets do not receive
edge banding, and MDF can serve driving screws through holes in the side by driving a pair of Smm Euro screws
as the drawer bottom and back flanges and into the plywood. (ConSider through the metal guide and into the
to control waste and costs. a).<2" MDF bottom for the MOF cabinets.) predrilled holes.

34 woodcraftm;)g;)zine.(om June 2009

Metal Boxes: Strong drawers made simply and quickly
The Metal Box drawer is an innovative, cost-effective
system that saves time by eliminating corner joinery. A
~kit~ consists of a pair of powder-coated steel sides with
flanges for attaching the bottom and back and a pair of
brackets for attaching the front. The s ides act as drawer
slides, matching up with tracks that attach to the cabinet.
You supply the drawer bottoms. backs, and fronts. To make
the drawer, simply screw on the bottom. back, and front.
Sides come in different heights, but we stuck to the same
3%" height and varied the drawer~front heights, With a bulk
purchase discount, the Metal Box drawer components for
a set of cabinets cost $8.99 per drawer for three or more.

6 Adjust the fit of the drawer
fronts (F-I). The "margins," or
gaps between the drawer fronts,
should be even. Also note how
the fronts for the top and bottom
drawers are J,4" wider to conceal
the edges of cabinet bottom
(8) and stretcher (el After
installation, inspect the fit. Adjust
the fronts either by shifting the
front mounting brackets slightly
or by removing the fronts from the
brackets and reattaching them.
Option 3: Shop-made
pull-out trays
1 Measure the cabinet interior
from side to side. and subtract
1ft to determine the width of
the pull-out tray (Photo K). This
provides clearance for the full-
extension drawer slides. For
reference. see Figure 6 and the
Cut List. As shown, each tray has
a hack and front (L), two sides
(M) a nd a bottom (N). Adjust
the affected part dimensions as
needed. Note: lfusing pUll-out
trays,you'll /leed to purchase
165 hinges (instead of the
Q
standard 110 hinges) to provide
Q
the needed clearance for sliding
out the trays or add ¥4"-thick
cleats to the interior cabinet
sides and subtract an additional
lYJ''for the width of the tray.
2 Next. cut tray parts to size.
After I:utting the sides (M) and
back and front (L) to finished
lengths and widths, set up a dado
cutter in your table saw or a
straight bit in your router table to
make a J,4"-wide rabbet li s" deep
along the edges for the bottom.
3 Using a 3/ 8" dado blade, cut
a simple lock rabbet joint as
shown in the detail in Figure 6.
4 Join the front and back (L) to
the sides (M) and then install the
bottom (N) with glue and 6d finish
nails. Attach the drawer slide
hardware to the tray sides and
to the sides of the base cabinet.

Figure 6:
Pull-out tray

3/, )( 1/(" Full-extension slides put everything on the tray

rabbets within easy reach. Size the tray I" narrower than
the width of the cabinet opening.

June 2009 woodcraftmagaline.com 35

Build the doors and install the hinges
Note: Skip Steps 1-3 below If making
slab doors/rom MDF or Mep. The
hinge-installacion techniques are
the same, no matter what doors
you lise. (See the sidebar about cup
hinges on page 37.)
1 Cut the stiles (0), rails (P), and
panels (Q) to size using the Cut
List. As shown in Figures 1 and
3, each frame-and-pane l door
consists of two sti les, two rai ls,
and a flat plywood paneL Cut stiles
and rails to finished dimensions,
making sure to account for
t;4"-long tenons in the rails.

Tip Alert
Cut some extra stock that
matches the thickness of your
sti les and rails. You'll find this
"scrap'" useful for testing the
dado setups in Step 2.
2 Using your table saw and dado
set, adjust the cutting width to
match the thickness of your panel.
Test-cut scrap to make sure that
the cutting width and depth are
correct and that the rip fence is
positioned to center the groove
on your stiles (0) and rails (P).
Check for square as you tighten the clamps on each door assembly.
3 Attach a wood auxiliary fence 220-grit sandpaper. Hand-sand all
to the rip fence. so that portion of edges to soften sharp corners.
the dado set can be buried in the Use 110° hinges for all cabinets
wood fence. Adjust the rip fence, that do not have full- exlension
so that the dado width is just a
hair less than the depth of the
groove. Next, adjust the dado set
height, so that the resulting tenon
fits snugly in the panel grooves.
Now cut the % x y." tenons on
the rails as shown in Photo M.
4 Coat the rail tenons evenly with
glue. position a pair of clamps to
center clamping pressure on the •
stile-and-rail joints, and apply
moderate clamping pressure to •
assemble the doors. Check for
square as you tighten the clamps
(Photo N). Once the glue dries, level
and smooth the rail-to-stile joints
J
using a random-orbit sander and

Make two passes over the dado
cutter to cut each tenon.
Tip Alert
Don't assume that the plywood
used to make door panels is
exactly )4" thick. Test your dado
set so that its cutting width
matches the panel's thickness.
Match the hinge mounting plate's
centerline on the door stile. Measure
from the bottom and top of the cabinet
to the mounting plates, then transfer
these measurements to the door.

36 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009

Use a plastic marking jig to accurately mark Use a Phillips-head screwdriver
centerpoints for the cup hinge hole, an d for to adjust the fit of the doors,
the plastic dowel holes, After drilling, tap maintaining a reveal of 1/12" or the
the hinge assembly in place with a ma llet, thickness of a nickel.

drawer trays; use 165 0 hinges
for all cabinets that have full -
extension drawer trays,
5 Transfer the hinge layout
from the cabinet to the door by
measuring up from the bottom
and down from the top of the
cabi net to the centcrl ines or the
hinge mounting plate locations
on the cabinet side (Photo 0),
Transfer these lines to the
door stile with a square,
6 Now align the plastic hinge-
marking jig with the centerlines
and mark the three center
points for boring the cup hinge
(Photo P). Chuck the 3Smm bit
that came with the jig into your
d rill press and bore 12mm-deep
ho les. Use an amm brad point
bit to bore 12mm-deep dowel
holes. Install the cup hinges
by tapping them in their holes
with a mallet (Photo P Inset).
7 Now screw the mounling plates
to the front line of holes bored in
the cabinet sides. Snap the mating
cup hinges on the door to the
mounting plates and adjust the
door up or down, in or out, or left
or r ight (Photo Q). Follow the same
steps for lhe rema ining door.

Cup hinges:
Tap in and snap on
If you're accustomed to basic bu rt hin ges, cu p
(Euro) hinges may look inti mi dati ng, bu t this
complelC-looking hinge is astonish ingly easy
to install. What's more, these hinges all ow
you to quickly adjust the door up and down
or in and out after the door is installed.
A cup hinge consists of a mounting plate
that screws into the predrilled Smm holes in
the cabinet side and a hinge mechan ism that's
installed in the door. The hinge mechan ism 35mm
includes a cup-shaped recess and a pair of Forstner bit
barbed plastic dowels. If necessary, the hi nge
cup can be removed si mply by unscrewing the
screws that extend into the plastic dowels.

June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 37

Assemble the base and install the cabinets
1 Cut four base pieces CR, S)
and corner blocks (l) to create a
3W'-high tockick under the base
cabinet. (We used 1.. 4 pine, but
base pieces can also be cut from
~" plywood.) Assemble the parts
as shown in Figure 1. Secure the
corner blocks with pocket-hole
screws as shown in photo R.
2 Secure the hase by dr iving
1 W' pocket screws through the
corner blocks and into the bottom
of the cabinet as shown in Photo
S. Be sure to position the front
edge of the base 1%" back from
the front edge of the cabinet.
3 Slide the cabinet into place
against the wall and shim the
base (Photo T) until the top of the Use corner blocks to strengthen and square the base. Fasten the blocks in
cabinet is level side to side and opposite corners after assembling the frame.
front to back. Once the top is level
both ways, secure the cabinet to the wall by driving 2lh screws
H
accommodate these as well. Now
through the back and into studs. cut the beveled strips to length and
attach one cleat (U) to the wall at
Tip Alert Install the wall cabinets the desired height using a pair of
If you're building il run of base
1 Bevel-rip enough 3,4 x 3"-wide 21,2" screws per stud. (We located
stock (we used pine) for wall our wall cleats 78" above the floor.)
cabinets that will be joined
cabinet cleats and mating wall Attach the mating deats to the
together, consider making a single
cleats. !fyou also intend to wall cabinet backs where shown
base. A single base is faster to
make and inslal1loo1 boards in the Cleats and Spacer Side View
build and easier to level than
(see page 42). plan on extending in Figure 3. Crosscut a .% x 3'!fl"
multiple smaller units.
the length of youI' wall cleats to piece of stock for spacers (V)

1'1
Drive screws through the corner blocks to join the base Shim up the cabinet before screwing it to the wall studs.
to the case.

38 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009

 BUYING GUIDE

""""""
0 1.

D •.
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WoocI-I_ ShetI'-PIn
,Jig, Metric:, 2S HoIw
.%'
•
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$14.99

D •. I~~:I:i ....~ ~'::~ '"'''' $21 .99

'_MflrioI
0 •. Standard 12' T.,. 834529 ".95
Mea' ....

o~
1 ~o%="::-:: 144740 $21.99

,, ~
I='~_'_' .: "22" .... 99

0 7. Kreu Right A!"ISI'I e

With cleats attached to the wall cabinet and the wall, individua l 0 8.
CO....
;
"""" $27.99

cabinets can simply be lifted into place, 0 •.

;
" '." . SO '
"""
147451
1 '''.99
$ 14.99
', '" . 00'
and attach it along the bottom with the front holes. Two screws
0 10. ... . . '""" 1... ,·99

edge of th e w all cabinet backs. per cabinet should do it . • 0 11. 1 " ''!?''. 8360n $19.99

2 Next , lift the w all cab inets

into place (Photo U), lowering
Tip Alert
0 12.
Metal Bolt System

".,
fw Draw....... ~ \4. H • 149713 .,."
the cabinet cleat onto the
wall cleat. This sy stem allows You can hide the screws used
C 13.
Support, Braek.t
Style, Drab, amm, 251
_k
,m, $3.99
you to relocate your wall to fasten wall cabinets together 22" Accurlo. Full
cabinets qui ckly and easily. 0 14. Eden. on DI1I_ 1312('0 $18.99

l
if you put them under hinge- Snde
3 To join ca bin ets toget her, first mounting plate locations.
clamp their front edges flush, 0 15. I~.=. 11 0", ,.1,
'''''"' ""
then d r ive 1Y4~ screws in li ne
o US. I ~.=. , $12.99
"""'"
WoodRhtllr DrlIIRlte
0 11. Hinge Jig + 3Smm Bit "'958 $10.99

0 1& ro;;. ....;,-••,'mm '''''' 1 ".99

Highpoint Confirm.t
0 1•. Starter Screw kit, 7 • 1492-61 "'.W
"""'m
About our Writer 0 20. ~~'!d ~!'.t~ Map",
r 50''' ' ".W
When he's not writing about wOodwOr1<ing,
greeJ1 building, and home improvement.
you'll probably find TIm Snyder out in his
worXshop (a converted two-car garage)
making furniture or tackling btJilt-in cabinetry
0 2 1.
Laminat.ct Maple
Benchtop,. 1'.- ThIc:k:
24 • &0", 70 ilia.
30 • 60", 88 1bs.
24 ~ 84", 96 1ba.
,,-,,- .....
1-45681

Ahovll il_lI<& ~~ai l abl8~' Woodctah sto<os, IV()()(1(:llIif.oom

.,.,.""
$249.99

0(by calli .... (8001225- 115.3. PrI<:es 1uDj«:1 to d"'oge wilhout

and other remodeling projects. He lives in notICe.
northwestern Connecticut with his wife, ,
Barbara, and a yellow lab named Brawley. 0 ". I~~.~" ~~i::
,
,, 'mm
,,
"

June 2009 woodcraftmagazlne.com 39

 Build-or-bu counterto tions
For durability and low cose,you con workshop stool in between. together. Allow the outside edges
Iwrdly beat an MDF countertop. Determine the width. Our of this top layer to overlap the
We made ours from two layers of countertops, with edging and bottom layer by l/H" to 14", After
sCI'ewed and glued .}:1. x 21's" pieces backsplash, measured 25 1/ / ' deep.
of MDF that we then trimmed to That allowed for an overhang
size. To protect edges, we glued on of Ph ", making it acceptable
*backspfash.
x Hz" maple and added a maple
We also included two
for clamping. Now figure the
edging and MDF needs, Note
other options: laminated maple the double layer of MDF in the
and plastic·laminate countertops. cutaway at right. Because MDF
AI! of the countertops were secured sheets are 49" wide, we could
in place by driving screws through get both layers for an 8' length the glue dries, use a flush-trim
base cabinet stretchers and into the of cabinets from one sheet. bit in a handheld router to trim
cuuntertop material. 2 Cut the MDP pieces to rough the top layer flush with the
size. making one sheet exact size bottom to create the countertop.
Option 1: Make an MDF and one sheet slightly oversized. 3 Rip enough 3"-wide maple
countertop assembly Ensure that the outside edges stock for a backs plash for the
1 Determine your countertop of the bottom layer are straight length of the countertop. Plane
length based on whether you're and square. Now screw and or sand a l/a " _ l/~ " chamfer on what
topping a single base cabinet, glue the top countertop layer in will be the top outside corner
a bank of cabinets, or a pair place using 114" drywall screws of the piece. Now, rip enough
of cabinets with space for a at 8" intervals to pul! the layers maple stock to 19!16" for the end

Workshop Thick-
Cabinets Cut List "~.
Width ",,",' "", ·Mat'!
Workshop Thick-
Cabinets Cut List "~
,
Width length Q", -Mat1

,,
."'.
T,
23",' (llmail MOE MCP, M
Ircnl& back
"y.' '"
3;'.
21'10' SI'I'OiII!29..... ~1
21'.4'
2 MDf~~
MOFor t.1
A SidQ
"
32' 2
Of sp
T"
"" !9y.o(~e~' MOF or f>!.y
11')1,' (WDI',

-
N Tray bottom
" 21 '"

.-
- 31 '~,' (om. &. 19. boise)
26'' · ~"" _.
.'
0
B
Bottom (and Top 231:<" (~T,," I 22'''' ' I'''''''
~
3tI,, ' , MOF. MCP, '. Dcxx stile
" 2V
0I'Inr! doot)
;:.>t;"'"l\g. 1>f.M. thortdOO<l • M
3tlW~waI~

-
.-
!orwal~ 1,y. (",81)
22y," (sm:d w"O
orBP
. 32' {10m. & 19,...-.1)
..--- ,
71't " (om._J

C
_.
Stretcher
"
5 ' i,mooJl 22Y"(~
3O~:_.~'"'Il-l ~
MOF, 'MCP,"
ocBP P
.., 7W
11'l'- (1g._1
(.tn.bMe. sIlott doao1 ,

,- "
Ooorrail 2 'h' M
D
23 ,,' (smoIIQ
"'-~!I 311'i" , MOF or SP
11~" ~ S1lOI1 dOOfl
7W (.." w .. ~

E
"""' "
23>(' (small 22'1." (omltl
_

3OY'~
. ..81)

....., ,,' MDF. MCP.

orBP
,"
11 y.'
..12l'_'. ~":!,!
2110 " (,"",_1
m·~" (Ig.bsMl
-
1, ' lwalQ
,
.'" .. , '"
0 nl'" (..-n. base, IIhM doorj
F Draw&!" front 4\'0' 23\'0' !small
,,' MOF, MCP--:- Door Il'lool W 11 \>" n'l." (\g , 108M, smrtdOOll
MAR ocBe

- 3~~:_ (\Wgej
, BP~~ 7)1i' 27'1." (om,waIrj
G Drawe-r froot 70/..-----i.
' 3'~"
23'Ao ' I'~
~~
MOF, MCP,
~PorM
111" HI' " (lg.\IId)
-,
MO-
,_._

H Draw-er front ". 8''1,,' 23',1'(5I1"I<i!II

31 \'o' ~.~..
~

, MDF, Mep,
BPorM
R
Base frame l ront

" '" 24' (smeM) 32" ~

,
P
p-
, 23", ' (..-...III) , MOF,MCP,
S , Base frame sides

"""" " 3~' 2O'~·(~,1.1 .&~

~
P
" 10',\, ' T
""~ "" 3 ~' 3''\~

-
Drawer front
31'lo" (IaI'gel Be ocM
DrI'lWf!l" back 3' 21 n' (tmalll , U Cleat 31>' ··23',1"
23'h' , P
P
" W
2,y,,"
, 29 ... " (WQe)
- MOForBP
- ,- V
" 3W

'_0 ,
'ChooOO ShOOt goods consIstent 'NJth tho cabinets you are making." Cul matc hing
cleat to Ieogth 01 walt or c abinet run . "'Shorl dooI's Ilre for base callirlets Witll Olle
'"
-"
K Drawer tlOttom 21 W\~ MOF O<'BP
290/",' drawer aOO two doors. Door st ile dimensions aocount for reveal Dew""" dOors
and drav<e.-
M DF ..Medium-Density Fiberboard, MCP.. Me\amirle-Coated Parliclebo...-d.
SP"Birch Plywood, PLY.. PIywood. M Muple. MAR.. Martite. p .. Pi(le

40 w ood cra ftm agazine.com June 2009

 and front edging pieces. (Solid
maple edging gives tht' MDF more
strength and impact resistance.)
Now cut the maple backspJash
and front edging to exact length
and install them with damps,
glue, and 6d finish nails.
4 Next, cut two end-edging
pieces to length and attach them
with glue and PA" Confirmat
screws (ideal for MDF). Drill
counterbored pilot holes for
the screws using the supplied
bit. Drive the screws and glue a
wood plug in each counterbore
hole. Now sand or cut the plug
flush. Ease all edging corners
with a sanding block.
S Position the countertop on
the base cabinets and drive four
1y.." sCI'ews through the base
cabinet's top stretchers and into
the underside of the countertop.
Option 2: Buy a laminated
maple countertop
For a hard-wearing, good-looking
alternative, consider purchasing a
P/."'aminated maple countertop
(or benchtop). While the priciest of
the three options, you'll save time
in construction. That said, you still
need to crosscut and rip the piece
to length and width. Because we
needed a little extra length in our
shop for a damping edge, we cut
countertap ends from the ripped
off-cut and screwed them in place.
Option 3: Buy a plastic-
laminate/particleboard
countertop
Visit a local countertop fabricator
and buy a plastic-laminate
countcrtop from his leftovers
collecting d~lst in the corner. Plastic
laminate is the easiest to clean and
provides a tough surface for spills of
glue, water, oiL paint, and finishes.
For our sharpening station, we found
a fabricator who cut a leftover piece
to the needed length, laminated
the cut end, and charged us a very
reasonable $80 for a 75~ length.

,
SMAL BASE CAO
B NET LARGE BASECABIN£T LARGE WALL CABIN ET ,MAU WAUCABINET

to) 0 10 to) 0 0 e 0 to) 0

to) 0 to) 0
f-- 0- '
0 0 10 10 1
to) 0 0 to) 0 0 0
- ]/_ l4' l 8' birc h pl ywood , ,
1/_ ~ 4 .8 b,rch pl'(WOOd

~
411
0
'Ill 2' . 4' birc h P!rWOOdM
0 a n ! [IJ ,Wi

~
,
1/ 4' , 4' b''"h plywood
"
@ 0 0 0 o o ~ k 4' bIrch plywood

0 o o I "
lx4l4 ' pille I

, ,
- 1/2. 4' .8' birch I
lx 4 .8'pine
1 • 51/2 k S' maple

~
1/_. 2' .4' birch plywood
r:::Q:-::=O ' O
lx4xS'pine 0 "
1. 8 . 6' pi nt

Ju ne 2009 woodcraftmagazlne.com 41
Tool Board Organizers
Keep hand tools at arm's reach
•••
Designers: Ben Svec, Gary Carter ••
Builder; Gary Carter • •
Writer: Jim Harrold

To complement the base and

wall cabinets in our workshop and
to provide easy access to the hand
tools we use most, we designed this
perforated hardboard tool storage
system to help you stay organized.
The system consists of a framed
hanging tool board (make as many
as you like to the overall dimensions
you need) and eight speCialized tool
holders made from scrap maple and
perforated hardboard.

Figure 1:
Framed panel exploded view

~ '''"''- 4d finish nail

Build the tool board first

1 Gather up the tool s you want to
place on your easy-access tool boards
by laying them out on a flat surface
such as an assembly table. Thi s helps
you decide how large to make your tool
board and if you need more than one.
3/~ x
cleall
(We created logical groupings of tools
for each of our tool boards, plaCing ou r

:::......:::- ....
· '.

,
. .' ..... '.

. :: ::
'
fl~ n8ed

: ~~::~~
measuring and marking tools on one
board, and screwdrivers, nut drivers.
pliers, and wrenches on another.)
''''7
· : .... ' .' .. ' Panhead

l :.<::-.: ::- 2 Referring to Figure 1, calculate

the linear feet you' ll need for the 1;4 )(
pe ' . . . . I1A"-wide side, top, and bottom frame
hardboard · .. pieces, the 3.4 x %" spacers, and the 3.4 x
~ile d to fit
3lh: beveled wall cleats. Then calculate
K

your 1f+" perforated hardboard needs,

1/4 x 3/." steel rod or
dowel In 1/4X 1/4- hole Rip the wood for the frame parts,
in wood hOlder

42 woodcraftmaga2ine.com June 2009

 '/_ ~ G" x le"sth
of tool P\older
Figu re 2:
Scrapwood tool holders

'/' x j " ~ lenllh of tool hol<!e<

1/, " deep dado \
",idt~ to w it ..

level tIf rUIe-::~~~~,.;,

If'" hole ':'
' / ," deep

<\ ~~"'''"'
'/_. 1'/,' do..."i -____
~tosu,t
;J
I ~ 3" tIf
Pli4If'5/snlps hold...

Hanllnllooi hold ••

1/• • 2'/4' x le ngt h of tool holdtr\ ,/." kt!mftlf

Sqllare blade "/_ . ) ' . le nJlh Ie> suit
)/. ' deep dadC>t~.
wkh h to suit tool

'I_~ Jf'"

'{I" kelfl for

Sq uate tlIJd.

spacers, a nd cleats to width, and then crosscut the parts to the

desired lengths. Cut the perforated hardboard panelfs to size.
3 Now, glue and nail the frame and panel assembly tugether,
using a nail gun and 34" nails or brads. Then add the beveled
cleat as shown in Photo A.
4 Add the opposing beveled cleat to your shop wall, and hang
the tool board as shown in Photo B.
5 Build a variety oftool holders from scrapwood a nd
perforated hardboard. using the eight tool holder designs in
Figure 2. Modify th e hold ers to suit your collection s of tools. or Glue and na il the beveled cleat in place.
desig n a few of your own . locating it W' down from the top edge of t he
6 Drill Xu holes 14" deep on the back side and near the ends of framed panel. Here, use l X" nails.

Ju ne 2009 woodcraflmagazi ne.com 43

 ·f. ~ 2" x length of cool hoIdtr

1 11o"orto .
suit pia...... . Length to SU!t
1 VPlanePlus2
Plane holder I

Open end wrench holder

---::~Y
I rL
r
",7/0"
I

lower the tool board cleat over the beveled

wall cleat. This system lets you relocate your
wall cabinets and tool boards wherever you
like without hassle.

each holder along the bottom edge. Use the

perforated hardboard holes as guides. Now,
cut lA"lengths ofY."·diameter steel rod.
Chamfer-sand ends and tap into place.
7 Attach the tool holders to the tool
boards using #8 x lX" plastic screw
anchors and #8 Ill" panhcad metal screws Align the holes in the pe rforated hardboard backing of the tool
as shown in Photo C. • holders with those of the tool board, insert the short Yo" dowels
pins for positioning, tap in the plasric anchors at the top
corners through the hardboard layers, and drive the screws.

44 woodcr3ftmag31ine .com June 2009

Lessons From a Pro
90'
large-radius
B'ower ~ elbow

Small-shop d ~~+. . .""~-,

. . . ".
collection
Create a clean, healthy
environment for
working with wood.
By Jim Harrold
Consu lta nts: Robert Wi tter and Jeff Hill

W hen we first work with

wood. taking on a small project
here and there and buying a
power tool or two, addressing
the mess of sawdust and chips
with a broom and dustpan seems
reasonable enough ... and cheap.
But as our passion grows and the
projects become more frequent
and involved. our investment
in machines increases as well.
And so does the sawdust. That's
when we cough up the bucks
for one or more portable shop
vacuums to help police the area.
Eventually, we realize that our
paltry militia of maintenance
tools falls behind the volume of
sawdust and chips. We ask: Is my
shop a candidate for a central
dust collection? (un I even afford
such a system? And, if so, can
I plan and install it myself?
Working with experts Robert
Witter and Jeff Hill of Oneida
Air Systems. a major player
in small-shop dust collectlon,
we'll help you answer these and
other questions, and provide
you with several options. By
story's end, you'll know what's
involved and how to proceed
without getting mired in math.
46 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
Figure 1:
Anatomy of a sma ll
shop dust-collection syst em
Why central dust-
collection makes sense
For the woodworker who fits the
mold of "dedicated hobbyist,"
one who spends hours every
week making furniture, having
dust collected at every machine
means convenience and time-
savings. With the right system,
cleanup at the end ofthe day
may amount to fivc minutes
instead of haIran hour or more.
In addition, according to Jeff,
"a good central DC will cycle
and clean air in a shop morc
effectively than any ceiling (air-
filtration) box. It moves more
air, has better filtration and
pre-separation, and works with
gravity to pull dust downward."
He also notes that a whole-shop
system has numerous ports
around the room to collect
from, not just one port up high.
The end result: an overall
healthier shop environment and
reduction of the slippery fine
dust on the workshop fluor.
The downside? Cost. For a
one-man 20 x 30' workshop with
a standard layout of stationary
machines and portable power
tools. the price tag can run as
high as $2,000 ($800 to $1,300
for a quality collector and
the rest for fittings, pipe, and

hose). This high-end app roach
would include an efficient two-
stage cyclone dust collector
with metal pipes and fittings.
However, you can work up
to a whole-shop syste m by
starting with a quality dus t
collector a nd filter and addin g
ductwork in stages as your
budget allows and needs a ri se.
Says Robert , "Custo me rs
tell us that they w ished they
had in stalled a cyclo ne system
wit h ducti ng first, ins tead
of spend ing years with bags,
mobile collectors, overhead
units, masks, and other less
effective measures." But fo r
the hard -chargi ng weekend
warrior, there may be a less
ex pensive a lter native.
Opt for a portable
dust collector
If budget and space rank among
your conce rn s, you may opt fo r
a portable dust coll ector li ke
the one shown above. At t he
low end, you can pic k up a 1 hp
un it that's powerfu l enough to
coll ect from th e biggest chi p-
maker in your shop for around
$200. Of course, it collects fro m
one machine at a t ime so you'] ]
need to move it fro m tool to tool
as you work through a milli ng
sequence. Be aware, however,
that many of the sing le-stage
Tip Alert
While purchasing th e flex ible
hose to attach to your tools,
also incl ude qu ick-connecting
adapters (Woodcraft #140259,
$6.50) to speed hook-up time.
'--
Ph oto; Oou g ROWin illustrations: Chris Glowacki
6" pipe --r:--
7" to 6" wy'e --''
Whil e this portable lX hp dust collector can connect to two machines,
it work s best collecting from one at a time. Consider using blast
gates to improve efficiency. 5" pi"e- -1
bag collectors pu m p fine co ll ecto r (the most horses
mit ron du st back into the air you can hope to run off 110
while retai ni ng the large r volts). These mid -sized units
debri s. In t his case, upgra de the ca n connect to two machine s
collector with an after- ma rket at t he same t ime with dual
bag o r pl eated ca rtridge w ith 4" ports or one 6" port. That
AS HRAE tested-and-rated said , you're best off capping
1-2 micron o r better filt er. or blast-ga ting one c
Or, for another $200-$30 0, port and collecting )
you ca n get a 11/2hp dus t from one machine at a
Blast gate
Secondary Strategies 5" to 4" reducer
Let these health-smart measures su ppleme nt
Flexi ble hose
your pri mary co llectio n effo rts:
• Wear an inexpensive dust mask or respirator
when creati ng fin e dust from sanding, turning,
and si milar fin e du st operations.
• En su re that eve ry power tool ha s a
du st port for dust/chip coll ection.
• If weath er permits, venti late the shop with a
box-style window fan to remove fin e dust.
• Use a shop vacuum for su itable portable power
tools such as sanders and circular saws, and outfit
it with an aft er-market pleated HEPA filt er.
• Capture sawdust and chips with passive (gravity)
boxes or bags und erneath some machi nes
such as a cont ractor table saw or mitersaw.
Jun e 2009 wood craftmaga:ine.com 47
 Lessons From a Pro
6" wye
time. For superior collection
in the category: spend a few
more bucks and buy a two-
stage portable dust collector.
Says Robert, HThc objective
is to provide enough CFM
at the machine to capture
nearly all the dust and then
consolidate and filter it down
to t he smallest particles.
A portah le can do this if
it can pre-separate waste
and capture 99% of the 1-2
micron fine (flour) dust," A
C~~~~~~:~::::::J""''''''':::5::::~t:o;e~nsure
efficiency,fromreftwo
from collecting
Glossary of Dust-Collection Terms
O-C-Short for dust
co llection/dust collector.
CFM-Cubic Feet per Minute or
rate of airfl ow. See Table 1 for the
CFM required to remove sawdust
and chips from a woodworking
mach ine to a collector.
SP-Referred to as Static
Pressure, this is the amount of
airflow resistance in a ductwork
caused by pipes, fi ttings, airflow
reducti ons, directi on cha nges,
clogged filter bags, etc. Note t hat
larger diameter pipes halle greate r
48 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
portable also lets you save
the cost of running ductwork
t hroughout your shop.
When shopp ing for a dust
collector, whether a low-dough
mobi le unit or a fixed model,
brush up on a few terms to
know what you're buying and
to assess your needs. See the
"Clossary of Dust-Co llection
Terms" below, and then go to
woodcraft.com to find a wide
variety of dust collectors. Keep
in mind that manufacturers'
claims regarding CFM may he
grossly exaggerated. Therefore,
ral n
tools simultaneously
unless the collector
is 2 hp or greater.
Finally, if you do buy a
portable dust collector,
implement one or more of
H
the "Secondary Strategies
on the previous page to
achieve your goals for a
clean and healthy shop.
CFM (drawing more debris) than
smaller diameter pipes. The
goal is to keep de bris moving,
and not settling in t he pipe.
Single-Stage Oust Collector-
A less expensive collector that
pullS sawdust, chips, and ot her
de bris directly t hrough the motor
im peller before depositing it
into a collection and fil ter bag.
Two-Stage Dust Collector-
A more efficient collec tor t hat
allows larger chunks, chips, and
sawdust to drop into a {first-
Opt for central
dust collection
If you desire a full-service du st-
collection system, one that pulls
from every machine (though
no more tha n one or two at a
ti me), the n let's exam ine the
parts that make up a system.
Follow the Figu re 1 anatomy
drawing beginning on page 46
and ending on page S3 tor an
understanding of parts, pipe
reductions, and installation. At
the same time, see Table 2, D-C
Syste m Parts for a r undow n
of individua l components.
Note that while dust-collection
pipes and fittings come in
PVC, plastic, and meta l, we
chose metal here (and for the
Woodcraft Workshop, page
24), because of the diversity
of compatible parts a nd to
avoid the static electricity
found in PVC ductwork lines.
At the heart of the dust-
collection sys tem in a one-man
shop is the collector itself.
stage) co llection con tainer before
reaching the motor impeller;
this a llows only the dust to
pass through t he impell er and
collect in a second-stage fil te r
bag o r pleated cartridge.
Two-Stage Cyclone Dust
Collector-An advanced type of
mechanical de bris separa tor, that
employs centrifugal air movement
to se parate coarse an d fine
material so only ultra-fi ne micron
dust reaches the fit ter. It includes
a more efficie nt and quieter fan.
It can be either a single- or
double-stage unit and consists
of a blower motor (from Ihp
to 3 hp), an impeller, and
one or more filters (cloth
bag or pleated cartridge),
for containing fine dust and
exhausting air. It contains a
removable canister or collection
bag for capturing large debris
such as chips and sawdust.
Depending on the amperage
and horsepower, it may require
a special dedicated electrical
outlet. For reasons of space
and noise, many woodworkers
locate the dust collector
outside of the shop in a garage
or attached insulated shed.
Doing this, however, requires
you to include an air return
to the shop to replace the air
removed by the collector.
In a typical one-man shop.
large 6"- or 7"-diameter
elbows and pipe stem from the
collector and tie into the main
trunk line, which also may be
6" pipe. This ductwork may run
perpendicularly or diagonally
across the shop as shown in
figu r e 2, or along the walls.
It may hang from the ceiling
joist, attach to walls with metal
straps and fasteners, or run
under the workshop floor. perpendicularly or diagonally
Branch lines stem orfthe across the shop. (Running it
main trunk line via wyes and around the shop's perimeter is
elbows. These typically step the least efficient way to go.)
down in pipe size (often to • Make branch lines as short
S"-diameters). The branch lines as possible as well. Work
may again be further reduced to keep tools within a 30'
to 4"-diameter pipe and flexible radius of the dust collector.
hose, depending on the machine • Locate ceiling drops
or tool ports they service. In where vertical pipes won't
some cases you may need to interfere with traffic flow
fashion special adapters to and machining operations.
collect from some tools, such • Allow for return air
as a drill press. Keep in mind, for collectors installed
however. that the more pipe outside the shop.
length, bends. and restrictions • Include dean-out locations
you create, the greater the in the system for removing
SP (airflow resistance). clogs. (In ductwork laid out
in a concrete floor. go with
Map out a plan
To create your whole-shop
Figure 2:
dust-collection system, map
Shop Diagrams showing
out your workshop plan on
Diagonal and Perpendicul ar
paper,locating stationary
Pipe Layouts
machines, power-tool stations,
cabinets, workbenches, and
so on. To do this quickly and
accurately, use the scaled
"Dream-Shop Planner" on
page 64. Draw the perimeter
of your shop on the grid, and
then cut out the templates that
reflect your tools and storage.
To help you decide where to
locate machines and your
dust collector for maximum
efficiency, keep these layout
considerations in mind:
• Place the biggest chip-
makers, such as your planer,
jointer, and table saw, nearest
to your dust collector.
• Make the main trunk line
(with the largest diameter
pipe) as short as possib le to
deliver more air volume; run it
June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 49
 Lessons From a Pro

capped Y-fitting cleanouts messy math by adhering to collector via a wye or reducer
to remove debris.) the following steps regardi ng fitting). Calcu late the linear
• Avoid T fittings and sharp pipe runs no longer than 30'. pipe length and fittings needed.
90" elbows which increase This Simpli fies pipe a nd du st 2 Use 5~ pipes and fitt ings for
static pressure (by putting collector sizi ng for most home bra nch lines, reducing them as
two T fittings in a system woodworking shops. Rely on needed to accommodate the tool
you tut your airflow in half). Table 2 to assis t you with ports they will service. Pipes of
By contrast, long-radius fitti ngs, and note that pipes t his dia meter can ca r ry a range
90" elbows. 45° elbows, and come in meta l or PVC; fi ttings of425 to 650 CFM, making
wyes are your best choices. in metal. black p lastic, or PVC. t hem well suited for most of t he
• Include a floor sweep 1 Use 6" pipes and fitti ngs for tools listed in Table 1. Calculate
to add convenience to the main trunk (this may be t he linear pipe lengths and
shop-floor cleanup. reduced fro m 7" at the mai n fittings (connectors, elbows,
• Terminate rigid duct lines
with blast gates and reducers Table 1: Airflow requirements
or adapters for hose hookups.
• Minimize each flexible hose
(CFM) for shop machines*
length (from 5' to 10'). TOOL CFM PORT SIZE
Now, locate and tape 12"-14" Bandsaw 400-500 4"-5"
your cabinet, tool and, dust
collector templates on the
14"-20" Bandsaw 400-700 5--6- J
planner grid. If placing you r Belt Sander (6"-wide belt o r less) 450 2"-4"
collector inside, avoid areas Stationary Belt Sander S50 3-..1"
that have a gas appliance with (13"-wide belt or more)
pilot lights to prevent the risk
Disc Sander (12" dia. or less) 350 4"-5"
of explosion. Regardless of
1
whether your collector is ins ide
or out, use remote switches
Drum Sander (13"-24" wide)
Floor Sweep
~
350
I ....
6"
to easily activate the unit Jointer (6"-8" wide) ! 4--5- I
from anywhere in the shop.
Jointer (8"-12" wide) 450-700 5"
Next, tape down a sheet
of acetate over your shop lathe (mini) l.so t s· I
layou£ and draw out your duct lathe 650-800 6"
system, including the main
trunk and branch lines with
Mitersaw/Radial~Arm Saw «lO-6OO 5· I
the pipe widths and lengths Router (table-mounted) 200 2"-4"
noted and the fittings . Shaper (Y. hp-3 hpj 3OO-S5O •• I
10" Table Saw (contractor 450-600 5"
Figure the o-c parts list or cabinet)
based on your plan
With your generalized plan on Th ickness Planer (10"-13" wide) 500-600 S·
acetate, tally up the specific
Floor parts you'll need. To do this, Thickness Planer (18"-20" wide) 78S 6"
sweep label the CFM and port sizes
for each tool. To determine ·/fyour coll~ctor il' rated for 1,ZOO CPM, more than likely you can collect from your
pipe and fitting needs, avoid table saw and jointer (450 + 350 CPM '" 800 CFM) at the same time.

SO woodcraftmagazine.com Jun e 2009

wycs, reducers, blast gates, Table 2: Parts for a small shop sy~tem
adapters and caps) needed. If
suspending the system from
the ceiling, consider drop
lengths as well. In any case,
avoid choosing duct diameters
that are too small. Try to run
the largest diameter you can
to the tool ports, referring to
Table 1. In some cases you
can increase the tool port 90' large'radius 3"·7" dla.; some adjust to
elbow fit; large·radius reduce s SP
size for better collection. 90' sharp-radius when turning (ornll!rs.
3 Figure the lengths and elbow
diameters of the flexible
hose and hose clilmps needed 45' elbow S-·,. dIlL; for ...... bImI..
to match the tool ports.
4 Indude 2"·wide a luminum
tape, industrial grade r·7~ dia.; prll!ferred fitting for branch
lines; offll!rs less SP than T-fittings.
silicone sealant, sheet Branch arms can serve;)s reducers.
metal screws, and metal
strapping for hanging pipes.
Floor sweep
5 Make a D-C parts list (2 " 8· opening)
on paper for purchasing
and installing.

Choosing a whole-shop •.-__ Connectors 2"·7" dia.; Connll!cts pipe

~
: :i ! ! !i! ::::"::::::'1'~'~'itlO~"~'~W~'~'~t~h'~'~W~/~"~'~'W~'!:j
dust CO II ector and tape; same dla. as pipe.
[fyour one-man home shop
contains a variety of machines Blast gate L_--~'f'1F.(
like those li sted in Table 1
and the ductwork (trunk and
branch lines) does not extend Blast gatll!/ 3"·6" dla.; connects nexible
hose adapter hose to system from tool.
beyond 30' from the collector,
your options are simple. For Reducer
single-tool collection (only
one blast gate open at a
Tool port 3",4-,5", 6", 7~ dla.; mounted
time), consider a 11/2- to 2·hp w ith flange to tools for connection and for

1r.~~'~~~'~~PO:'~t~'"1~~::::::::~~
. . 01.__
collector. For collection from
two tools at a time (with a ll
but two blast gates closed),
'"'-- End cap 1 , -,4-,5".'-cfil:UMdto
.... _1IIm\inIIIIt.... .. ~ 17 p...

opt for a 2· to 3·hp collector.
Use any more than that and
-Schedule 1140 (whiU) PVC pipe comes in r -, 4-·, and
you're indulging in overkill.
((your shop is more than a
one-man shop and commercial
in nature, seek expert help.
--=
~
6 ·-diameters; thinner schedule 1120 (white) PVC pipe comes
In 3 ~· and 4"-diameters only. 80th come in '0' lengths and accept a full
runge ofplumbing fittifI!Js found at home cent'e rs and block plastic D·C fittings like those
sold at Woodcraft. Costs. 4".(//0. It 10' PVC pipe, $7.65; 4 -·dio. It 6'metul pipe, $13.29.

June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 51

Lessons From a Pro

Install a metal D-C

system step by step
With your system parts on hand,
gather the tools and materials
you'll need for installation. For
the metal system featured here.
we used a tape measure, felt tip
pen, redprocating saw equipped
with a metal cutting blade. a
cordless drill, screw driver, l/Z" Jeff used a pair of hose clamps and a short piece of flex hose
sheet-metal screws, tin snips, to connect the collector to the dust bin; he installed the
a crimping tool. silicone caulk, cartridge filter with star knobs, bolts, and washers.
a caulk gUll, aluminum tape,
and hose clamps. Now, solicit a their installation, following your
helper and follow this sequence plan. Then, beginning at the
for a quality installation. dust collector. fit connectors,
1 Assemble the dust-collector elbows, wyes, and pipes
at its planned location, following together as shown in Photo C
instructions accompanying the to build the main trunk line.
unit. (We attached the motor 3 Seal all joints with aluminum
to the cyclone barrel, and then tape as you screw components
bolted on the cyclone cone. together as shown in Photo D.
Rather than secure the unit A second method of sealing After joining male and female
to the wall with a bracket, we pipe is to use an industrial parts, Jeff secured them using
assembled an optional iron grade silicone sealant as shown three or four #8 x y." sheet-metal
frame for sturdy, level support, in Phot o E. Both measures screws around each joint.
and then added the dust-bin lead to an air-tight system.
and cartridge filter assemblies 4 Build branch lines that lead Tip Alert
as shown in Photos A and B.) to each tool, terminating them
2 Layout the pipes and fittings with wyes and reducers, blast If possib le, do as much of the
on the floor in the vicinity of gates. and hose connectors. assembly on the floor for ease of
When needed. cut pipe lengths construction.
to fit as shown in Photo F,
Expert D-C layout
services
If you intend to install a o-c
system, note that Oneida offers
a professional planning service
to help you Jay out and size your
system, develop a parts list, and
obtain installation help. This is
free of charge wit h purchase
of a 3 hp or higher system.
Contact Oneida at (800) 732- Fortify and seal each jOint with adhesive-backed aluminum tape,
4065; online: oneida-air.com. cutting strips long enough to circle the joint at least twice; lay down a
bead of silicone along joint lines as an alternative sea ling method .
52 woodcrilftmagazine.com June 2009
Cut pipe with a reciprocating
saw and metal-cutting blade; a
helper rotates the pipe during
the process to maintain a
controlled, on-the-mark cut.
Cut strips of metal strap, bow it
around the pipe, bend up end
taps, and screw the strap and
pipe in place. Solicit a helper
to hold the pipe in place.
Crimp the edges of a fitting (in
this case, a reducer) for a snug
fit in the mating component
using a metal crimping tool.
Secure the piece with screws.

measuring and marking them
with a pen. Allow for overlapping
of pipes and connectors at joints
(usually about 1" at each end).
5 Hang the assemblies from
the ceiling joists or along
the wall with metal straps
snipped to size and screwed in
place as shown in Photo G.
6 Connect needed lengths
of sized flexible hose (less is
best) from branch line ports
to machine ports, using hose
clamps. [n some cases, you may
need to crimp a pipe or fitting
for an inserted fit as shown in
Photo H. With the installation
complete, close the blast gates,
activate the system, and listen
for air leaks at each jOint. Plug
any holes with silicone . •
4" nose ·,
Tip Alert
!mprOlle collection efficiency on
tools by replacing the factory
port with a larger shop-made
one. (For instance, we changed
out the 4" factory port on our
jointer with a 5" port made from
1"-" plywood with a S" opening
and a 5" flanged metal port.)

Installing a PVC system

5" to 4" wye

and/or aluminum tape to prevent air leaks.

A Note of Caution: While we include a discussion
of a PVC ductwork system in this article, we do
not recommend it. And while you can find PVC
ductwork systems in small shops across the
country, know that NFPA / OSHA opposes using it
in this application due to the potential for causing
electro-static shock and fire. But if you choose
this route, consider these installation pointers:
• When assembling the compone nts of a PVC
system, note that black plastic fittings, like the
blast gates and reducers sold at Woodcraft, and
the cream fittings all complement the system.
Still, make sure you have the needed adapters
so parts connect snugly. Seal joints with silicone
-;
End cap
• Some metal components, purchased at a
home center, may be needed to connect
a PVC system to the dust collector.
• Do not glue up all of the joints. You may have
to pull sections apart to deal with clogs.
• T and other tight-radius fittings and small diameter
pipes will significantly reduce efficiency.
• Ground the PVC system by running braided metal
wire inside the PVC piping, fittings, and fle)(ible
hoses from machines to dust collector to reduce
static electricity buildup. Connect braided wires
together at joints with wire nuts. (Consider
Woodcraft's Anti-Static Kit, #812502, $17.99.)
Reduce the shock potential by spiral-wrapping
the system with a grounded braided wire.

Photos: Chad McClung June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 53

Prep & Finish
Workshop Finishes
Add life (and good looks) to your shop with our four-can plan.
By Joe Hurst·Wajszczuk
Many woodworkers dream
of a shop lined with flawlessly
finished cabinets like the kitchen
of some celebrity chef. If you have
the time and inclination, go for it;
jllst don't let perfection prevent
you from making real sawdust.
Cabinets and countertaps deserve
protection, but a workshop
doesn't need a showroom-
grade finish to do the job.
Selecting a finish for your
shop involves slightly different
criteria than a piece you're
planning to display in your
home. Much like choosing wood
for a jig or fixture, the goal
is as much about protecting
surfaces from everyday wear
as it is about looking good. The
trick is accomplishing both-as
quickly and cleanly as possible.
Following is a rundown of the
materials and methods we used
to finish our MOE and maple
and birch plywood workshops,
S4 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
plus tips for finishing with a
minimum of fuss. Whether you're
building a brand-new shop or
want to give your old shop a
new look, here are three fast
finishes that should let you get
right back to furnituremaking.
Painting-tough to beat a
roller and brush
Paint is not only easy to apply
and durable, but it also serves as
an effective way to unify sheet
goods and solid stock. It doesn't
matter if you use poplar, pine,
maple or MOF-they all look the
same after two coats. It's also an
easy way to unify cabinets built
over time or from miscellaneous
materials. And for basement
and garage shops, whitewashing
the interiors is almost as
effective as in-cabinet lighting.
Spraying may be speedier for
large jobs, but when you add in
prep and clean up, a roller/brush
combo is faster for smaller jobs
and on-site work. Mini rollers
cover interior and exterior
surfaces quickly, leave
no brush marks, and are
reusable hut also cheap
enough to toss after use.
With a good sash brush
and a steady hand, you
can paint next to finished
walls and cabinets
without painter's tape.
Painting is simple,
but these steps can
ensure success. After the
assembly of a cabinet
or other shop project,
touch-up sand with 180 grit
and fix cracks and holes with
wood filler or caulk. Do a quick
inspection after the first coat
to catch anything you missed.

Tip Alert
Always test your gun's air
and fluid settings on paper or
cardboard before spraying your
cabinet.
Choose your paint wisely.
Wall paints lack abrasion and
stain-fighting resistance. On the
other extreme, exterior paints
remain elastic and may stick
to tools. Latex enamels and
epoxy paints provide the best
stain and abrasion resistance,
hut an acrylic polyurethane
topcoat offers the same effect.
Polyurethane-best
done with a gun
If you stepped up to hardwood
ply then you'll want a finish
to match. Water-based acrylic
polyurethane is a natural-looking
choice. Acrylic polyurethane
dries quickly and crystal
clear, but what makes it ideal
for small-shop finishing is
the abse nce off times or the
flammability associated with
other solvent finishes.
An HVLP (high volume, low
pressure) sprayer is a perfect
partner to this fast-drying finish.
Sprayers lay less finish than
rollers, but once the cabinets
and room are prepared, several
cabinets can be sprayed in the
time it would take to roll just one.
Our shop took less than a day.
Spraying in a sma ll shop
involves a bit of a battle
between dust and overs pray
(fine mist that bounces off
or misses your project).
Protect your work and
su rroundings with plastic
sheeting on the walls
Photos: Do1.J!! Rowan
and a canvas tarp
on the floor. Apply
two light coats and
then scuff-sand the
surface with 220 grit
to level raised grain.
Remove dust and loose
grit with a vacuum end of the day, and you'll be
or damp rag (tack cloths may sorry the next morning. Always
leave a residue) and apply spray warm soapy water through
two more coats of poly. the gun until the passages run
Unlike a roller or brush, clear, then disassemble and
cleanup can't be dismissed. lubri cate your gun as directed
Forget to clean your gun at the in your user's manual. •
Counters and benchtops: wipe-on
polyurethane and wax
Scratches and stains will happen,
but you can postpone the
inevitable. The polyurethane
and wax two-step is easy to
apply, effective at repelling glue
and other staining agents, and
a cinch to touch up when you
wear through the surface.
Don't be stingy with the poly. counter and
Apply the wipe-on as shown in bench tops to seal the surfaces
Photo A; wait 10 minutes and in the least amount of coats.
wipe off the excess. Depending
on the top (MDF will soak up
more than maple), two or three
coats should do the trick. Don't
go overboard, Shiny surfaces look
nice, but skating rink-slickness
Is not useful in a workshop.
Paste wax Isn't much of a finish,
but the molecularly-thin fi lm does
provide cheap insurance. After giving Use a rag to apply the wax, wait,
poly a day or two to cure, wipe on a then buff, Apply a fresh coat
thin coat with a rag or 0000 when glue drips start to stick,
steel wool (Photo B). wait
for it to hale, then wipe off If you rub on a fresh coat of
the excess. (Don't worry. wax whenever the top looks worn
the wax or glue doesn't pop off like it
swirls will should, the poly undercoat should
wear off.) last for years of hard wear.
June 2009 woodcraftmagaline.com 55
W hat better floor for a
woodworking shop than one made
of wood? If you're lucky enough
to have a basement or ded icated
outbuilding with suFficient
headroom and a concrete floor
that's dry and reasonably flat.
wood flooring can't be beat as the
starting point for a workshop. We
chose southern yt:!lluw pine for the
Woodcraft Magazine workshop ftoor
for a number of reasons. First, It's
affordable and widely availab le. The
1 x 6 tongue-aDd -groove boards
cost Just under $3 per squa re foot
in our neighborhood. Even though
southern yellow pine Is a softwood.
this flooring offers an excellent
combination of durability, strength,
and resiliency-which probably
explains why it's been used for
cent uries as flooring in residentia l
and commercial buildings.
As you' ll see on the pages ahead,
a premium shop floor isn't difficult
to install if you havt:! the right
56 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
tools. You'll need a flooring nailer, by the Southern Pine Council
which you can rent from a local tool (www.southernpine.com) and
renta l outlet for about $25 a day. will work over any sou nd, d ry
The nailer comes with a special concrete slab floor. Or if you've
rubber-faced mallet, and the rental got a shop floor framed with joists
outlet will probably stock the I V." and covered with underlayment,
flooring nails you'll need . Once the the yellow pine ca n be fastened
floor is down, trade in your nailer onto this subflooring.
for an orbital floor sander ($40/
day) a nd an edge sander
($2S/day), to smooth the
wood surface in preparation
for finishing. While you
can do the installation and
finishing on your own,
recruiting a ht:!1p~r will make
the work go much faster.
We installed flooring fro m
Gr izz ly Forest Products
(www.grizzly/oresc.
com), but you can order
floor ing from most
lumberyards and building Stack the fl ooring in your shop and let it
supply outlets. The several days to acclimate it to its new home. Use
installation process we a moisture meter to determine that the fl ooring
used is recommended has stabilized and is under 140 moisture content.

Prep t he floor
1 Begin by vacuuming the
concrete floor to remove as much
dust as possible. Then test the
concrete to determine jf enough
moisture is coming through the
slab to cause problems with
the floor after installation. Do
this by taping a 24 Ie: 24~ square
of polyethylene sheeting to
the concrete and waiting 24
hours before peeling it up. If
the underside of the poly is wet,
your slab has too much moisture
for a wood floor. A good way to
solve this problem is to coat the
floor with a commerCial-grade
moisture barrier, like Dostik's
MVP4 (www.bostik-us.com).
2 To cover the concrete with
a vapor barrier, first apply
Armstrong 5-89 Asphalt Floor Ti le
Adhesive onto the surface with
a Vl ~n notched trowel. Apply an
even layer about 40" wide, along
the longest wall that's opposite
the shop's entrance. Then adhere a
layer of 1S-lb. builder's felt (which
comes in 36"·wide rolls) in the
mastic lFigure 1). Repeat this
application with a second course
of builder's felt, overlapping the
previous course by about 4".
Cover the entire slab in this way.
3 Next, using~" exterior-grade
Ale plywood, instal! it plywood
subflour at a 45° angle lo the
walls. Keep the "A~ side of the
plywood facIng up. Start the
angled installation by cutting
severaI4So·45°-90° plywood
triangles to go along the wall.
Maintain the diagonal orientation
by installing square-ended panels
adjacent to the angled panels.
Now drill countersunk pilot holes
in the plywood, spacing them
every 24". Then use the speclally
sized masonry bit that comes
with the screws to bore at least
Opening photo: Ooug Rowan; Project photos: ):;en
o
Figure 1:
Waocj f1oc~~atc)my
Floor adhesive
Concrete floor ...---..
I" into the concrete. Now fasten
the plywood to the slab wi th
1f4.)( 1%~ flathead self·tapping
concrete screws. When laying the
subfloor, pay attention to critica l
clearances: allow 14"·lh" clearance
between panels and 3.4" between
panel edges and the walls.
4 Stack the flooring in the shop
and let it acclimate as shown in
Photo A. It helps to separate the
bundles with wood ·stickers"
made from scrap 1)( strips.
Don't install the flooring until it
reaches an equilibrium moisture
content (EMC) of H% or less.
It typically takes 5-14 days for
southern pine flooring to attain
EMC. Take readings with a
moisture meter (Pho to A Inset)
every day. When the readings
are the same for several days, it's
time to start the installation,
lay down the tongue-and-
groove flooring
1 Snap a line to tay out the first
course. You want this line to be
parallel to the longest wall in the
workshop and about 6" from the
Br~dy
Tongue·a nd -groo .... e
fl ooring
finished wall surface. That should
leave a gap of about %" between
the edge of the flooring (which
has an actual width of 5W') and
the finished wall. Stretch the
chalk line tight before lifting it up
(near the centcr) and releasing
it to snap your layout line.
2 Using 6d finish nails every 16",
face-nail the first course of floor
boards to anchor thcm to the
subfloor as shown in Photo Band
referenced in the fastening detail
in Figu re 2. Choose the longest,
straightest flooring boards to
make up this coul'se and align
Face-nail the first course of floor
boards, spacing them){" to %h from
the wall.
Jun e 2009 woodcraftmag3zine.com 57
Figure 2:
Fasteni ng det ail
W'·lj~" gap be~
subfloor and flnlshcd wall
them with the chalk line. face the
floor board tongues toward the
center of the room. After securing
the boards, anchor the tongue
edge of this course to the sub floor
by blind-nailing (toenailing) 4d
finish nails as shown in Fig u re
2 . Blind-nail every 16", placing
nails between the face nail
locations. Set the nails with a
nail set, driving the nail heads
ljI6"_1/ e" below the wood surface.
3 Layout your next several
courses officer boards. Select
board lengths so that butt
joints in adjacent ~ourses are
offset by at least 2', Snug the
next course against the nailed
course by tapping the tongue
to groove edges together using
a 6"-8~-long block of scrap
flooring as shown in Ph oto C.
4 Load the flooring nailer with
barbed 1lj." flooring nails, and
position the flooring nailer to
blind-nail through the tongue
edge of the board. Drive the nail
by hammering on the nailer's
drive head with the rubber
mallet that comes with the
nailer as shown in Photo D.
Tip Alert
Don't use the "factory ends
when butt-joining adjacent
boards in the same course.
Instead, use a chop saw to make
square, mirror-smooth end cuts
to ensure tight butt joints.
58 woodcraftmagaline.com
Base shoe
6d finish nail 4d finish nail
lj." A-C plywood s floor
concrete floor
Iju l"/4"self.tapping concrete screw
Repeat the nailing technique to
drive nails every 16", Slind-nail
successive floor board courses.
5 Face-nail the final course. As
you get close to the opposite wall,
use wood wedges to force tongue-
and-groove joints together. When
there's not eno\lgh room to use the
flooring nailer. toenail through
the tongue using a pneumatic or
cordless finish nailer as shown in
Fit the groove of the mating floor
board to the tongue of the nailed
floor board; tap into place with a
piece of scrap flooring and hammer.
N
When you no longer have the space
to use the floor ing nailer, wedge the
J flooring board tight to its mating
floor board and fasten it down.
June Z009
Photo E. Use a nail set to set these
nails below the wood surface.
6 Rip the final course narrower
so that there wil! be %" of
clearance between the flooring
and the finished wall if needed.
Then USe a pry bar to force
the final tongue-and-groove
joint tight and secure the last
boards in the last course by
driving 6d finish nails every
16" as shown in Phot o F.
Sand and finish the floor
Note: Before turning on the sanders,
be sure to slip on a dust musk and
protective eyewear. Have a shop
vacuum ready to collect sawdust. If
sanding in the basement, tape the
basement door shut with duccor
Use a flooring nailer and 1'/a"
flooring nails to blind-nail the floor
board to the subfloor.
Face-nail the final course of floor
boards, using a pry bar to pull them
tight to the neighboring floor boards.
Maintain a W' gap.
packing tape to limit the amount
of sawdust penetrating the living
spaces upstairs.
1 Sand the floor with an orbital
or drum sander. The drum sander
works more aggressively and
should only be needed ifthe
edges of flooring boards stand
proud of adjacent boards after
installation. Since our floor didn't
have significant high spots, we
got away with using an orbital
Move the sander along the lengths of
the floor boards, evening any proud
edges and raised ends.
sander with 100-grit sandpaper.
Start sanding in the back corner
ofthe room (farthest away
from the door) and move the
sander parallel to the flooring
courses as shown in Photo G.
Keep the sander moving and let
the weight of the machine take
care of downward pressure.
2 Remove all the sanding dust
from the shop. Clean sawdust
off shelves, cabinets, and light
fixtures, and then wipe down
the walls to remove any dust
that might contaminate the
floor finish. Vacuum the floor
thoroughly with a shop vacuum
and wipe it off with rags.
3 Prepare the finish for
application and gather your
applicators (Photo H). We used
a water-based polyurethane
from General Finishes (High
Performance Polyurethane)
in a satin sheen. Following
the manufacturer's
directions, pour a small
amount of crosslinking
additive into the finish.
This additive (Enduro
Crosslinker from General
Finishes) makes the
finish harder, more
durable, and adhere
better. lise a clean
mixing stick to blend the
additive into the finish.
4 Flow on and spread
the first coat of finish.
applylng it in the corner
of the room that's
farthest from the III
door and working out For finish we used General Finishes High Performan ce
from there as shown Water-based Satin Polyurethane with Enduro
in Photos I and J. Crosslinker; for applicators we chose an 18" Nylfoam
For more control, Floor (oater for the main floor and a nylon bristled
we transferred the finishing pad for cutting in along the edges.
finish from the can
into a clean spouted
watering can. Pour a small amount 5 [nstall the baseboard shoe
offinish on the floor and then molding to the baseboard,
use a squeegee-like applicator to driving 6d finish nails every
spread finish evenly (ours is made 16". [fyou haven't attached the
by Pad co; wwwpadco.com).Keep baseboard, then do it first and
pouring and spreading until the follow with the shoe. To install
floor is coated completely. Apply baseboard, drive Bd finish nails
four coals in total, letting each through the baseboard and
coat dry between applications. into studs at 16" centers . •
,
Cut in along the walls furthest from the door with the nylon pad, and
follow with the larger applicator, applying small amounts of finish and then
spread ing it evenly over the flooring.
June 2009 woadcraftmagazine.com S9
 Sharp words for
cutting edges
und erstanding how these
sharpeners work starts with
knowing the terms used to
define the difference between
a chisel that's sharper than
a razor and one suited only
for prying open paint cans.

l apping- A sharp chisel

requ ires a back that's as nat
and highly polished as the
beve l. Removing the mill
marks, scratches, or rust pits
is ca lled lapping. After the
initial lapping, you will need to
lightly lap the back to remove
the wire edge produced
when grinding the bevel.
Grinding- More aggressive

Power Sharpeners metal removal, usually

reserved for changing the bevel
or repairing a chipped edge.
Comparing convenience, edge quality, and cost. Honing- Minor metal
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk removal. You can rehone
an edge several times

t may not top the lis t, but in terms orinevitabilily and unpleasantness,
sharpeni ng ranks up there with death and taxes. Most of us try to avoid
before regrinding.
Hollow grind -Slight
concavity caused by grind ing
it for as long as poss ible. The e nd result? Tools t hat aren't as sharp as a flat face on a round wheel .
t hey should be, work that may not look as crisp as it (ould, antI more A severe hollow can make a
time spent resuscitating a stack of dull, ragged cutting edges. weak edge, but this isn't an
Enter t he power sharpeners. For a price, these plug-in problem issue with 8" and 10" diameter
solvers produce razor-sharp tool s in short order. But are t hey really wheels. Removing steel from
worth it? And does one edge out th e rest? To find out, we picked the middle of the bevel makes
rnar.:hines representing each power sha rpening subgroup and then honing faster and easier.
tested them usi ng every chisel and plane iron in our shop. M icro-bevel-An extra
More speci fic ally, we focused on each system's abilily to establish degree or two added to the
and refresh an edge. T hen we weighed th at agai nst the cost of a primary beve l. Micro-bevels
complet e system ( basi c m achine. plu s needed accessories). What are used to strengthen
you'll see here then is the shop-teste d results and other data to help the edge and speed up
you sele ct t he tool that best fits your needs and budget. the honing process.

M~ may be honed
on a flatOtholow-ground bevel.

,
Flat-ground beve1 HolloW'-grouod bevel Mjcrobev~
" ;/
'Ii!

60 woodcrilftm<lg"zinO:'.tom June 2009

Slow-speed grinder
A price-smart start but expect a few burnt tools.
Requires a secondary honing system.
Rench gri nders
started out as
a ll-purpose
metal grind ers.
Out of necessity
t hey made
their way into
woodworking shops many yea rs
ago. If you al ready ow n one, it
can be outfitted to become the
power ed par t of a n affordable
sharpening system. With a good
wheel and rest, turners can go
straight from t he grinder to t heir
lat hes. Woodworke rs will need
to do additional handwork.
Lapping- You'll need to look
elsewhere. Initial lapping can be
done by st ick ing sandpaper ont o
Wheels matter
Gray wheels grind quickly, but
aren't kind to tempered tools. The
prob lem is that as they load up
on metal parti cles, they rub more
than cut. When that happens,
they create (em per- losing heat.
White aluminum oxide wheels
are friable. This means that the
wheel sloughs off abrasive to
provide a fres h grinding surface.
Harder {but still friable) pink or blue
Pl"IotOS; Doug ROWM Illu stra~or1 ; ChriS GIoW3Ck i
System summary
8" Slow Speed Grinder
Wheel Dresser
Tool Rest
1000-6000 Grit Waterstone #0ge31 .... .. $30.99
TOTAl. ..... ............ ... ........... ...................... $202.97
Suggested Accessories
Honing Guide
Grinding Jig
8" DMT Duo5harp Diamond Stone
(coarse/extra coarsel
glass, grani te or use a diam ond
stone. Post·hone lappi ng is done
on you r fi nest s harpen ing stone.
Grinding-E xcellent, after a
few upgrades. Getting the needed
precis ion and adjustability wil l
cos t you about $5 0 (tu rn ers may
want to spend a little more).
While you're at it, treat yourself
to a g rinding jig (0 hold ch isels
a nd blades at a co nsiste nt a ngle
a nd perp end icula r to the w heel.
Grinding wheels grind quickly,
but are also quick to burn an edge.
When t he steel t urn s blue or black,
it's los t its temper. You'll need
to remove t hat section to rega in
hardness. Investing in a better
w heel, especially if your grinder
wheels are useful for A2 and other
hard steels. Regardless of your
color, you 'll need a wheel dresser to
keep your wheels clean and round.
For a smoother grind and cooler
steel, go diamond. WoodRiver's
new 120-grit diamond wheel
(Woodcraft #149479)
grinds sl ightly
slower than my
60-grit white,
but more cleanly
than my 120-
June 2009
"144290 .... . $99.99
#124670 ..... $14.99
"03835 ...... $57.99
#03A21 .... .. $12.99
#03937 ...... $30.99
#140966 ... . $99,99
still sports gray (silicon carbide)
ones, ca n make a big improvement.
To prevent burning, rest your
fin gers on the s teel as shown
above left, and dip the tool in water
when you feel t he heat. Also, train
yourselfto stop sooner-grind less
and hone more-rather t han risk
scorching a wire-thin edge.
Honing-A 1000 -6000 gri t
combination w aters tone is an
inexpensive way to get a shav ing-
s ha r p edge. Honi ng is fa irly easy
to do freehand, but an entry-
level honing gu ide guarantees
consis ten t res ults, To add a
mi cro-bevel, simply reposition
t he ji g on t he blade and lightly
hone wi t h your finest stone.
grit-a perfect finish for turning
tools. The biggest perk is the
al uminum body that works as a
heat sink, making it difficult to
burn an edge. The $150 wheel isn't
cheap, but it can be a smart way
to supercharge your old grinder.
Diamond.
woodcraftmagazine.com 61
Water-cooled wheel
A sharpening system that can't burn tools or throw
sparks. Jigs available to sharpen almost anything.
What you'll need for your T-3
Buying a Tormek has always
been akin to going to an a 1.'1 cart
restaurant, but it's even more true
with the T-3. In order to make the
smaller sharpener more affordable,
the maniJfactiJrer does not include a
few must-have accessories. Be sure
to add these two to you r initial order.
"f'Stone Grader-The duo-
grit stone switches the
wheel from coarse to fine.
62 woodcraftmagazlne.com June 2009
I. System summary
Tormek T-3 #148962 ..... $339.99
(Comes with Square Edge Jig, Angle Master, Honing
Compound, Instructional Handbook and DVO)
Stone Grader #l1Q45 ........ $24.99
Diamond Truing Tool #147748 ... .... $75.99
TOTAl. ........................ ..................••. $440.97
Suggested accessory
Multi Jig "'29353 ....... $58.99
I used my first Tormek a decade ago when
sharpening a bench-load of plane blades for another
tool test. Since then, I've been a big fan of slow-
speed, wet-sharpener systems. The constant water
bath not only makes it impossible to overheat a
tool, even when grinding down to a wire edge,
but eliminates sparks and catches the debris
thrown hy dry grinders. Just be careful during the
winter months. Like other watcrstones, the wheel
will crack if it freezes, and you'lI be out $200.
What sets the Tormck apart from the other
sharpening systems is the way it works as a
complete sharpening system. Using the stone
grader, the single wheel works like a two-wheeled
grinder: simply touch the stone to the wheel to
change it from coarse to fine. Touch the bevel and
back against the leather honing
wheel, and you're ready for
surgery. Chip a plane blade, a nd
you call grind, hone and return to
work in about five minutes.
Aside from the machine Itself,
Tormek's success rests in the
micro-adjustable steel rest antI
a collection of jigs designed tu
sharpen almust every cutting
edge in the shop. The jigs range
in price from $16 to $160. so you
probably won't want to buy them
all at once, but when you do
purchase a new tool, you'll know
.&OJamond Stone Oresser- there's Ll jig that will enable you
You'll need to dress the to sharpen it bcttcr than new.
8" wheel more often than Despite this sharpener's
the lO"-diameter T-7. ability, the sticker price can
come as a shock. At $600, the

Lapping
The side of the wheel works
fo r initial lapping, but is trickier
than sandpaper or stones.
larger T·7 is a class by itself, but
the sma ller T-3 offers the same
benefits at a price comparable to
other sharpening systems. Just
bear in mind that you w ill need
to purchase a few accessor ies to
make full use of the machine.
Lapping-Good. Initial la pping
can be done on the side of the
wheel as shown above left. but I
preFer doing coarse lapping using
sa ndpaper on glass. Final lapping
on the leather wheel was another
story; when charged with the
honing compound, you simply
touch the steel to the wheel and
get a mirrored surface.
Grinding-Excellent. You can
grind freehand. but the strength
ofthe system rests In the jigs.
Clamp the plane blade, ch isel (or
with the right accessory, anything
else) in to the appropriate jig, and
you're off. The induded Angle
Master, shown above right, makes
angle setting foolproof. Of all the
optional tool holders, I find the
Multi Jig most usefu l for skew
chisels and gouges.
Wet grind ing is a 10lless messy
than you might thi nk. Because
Grinding
The setting gauge makes it easy
to set edges to specific angles.
of its low rotation speed, water
simply flows onto the blade then
falls back into the well. The we ll
neatly catches the stone slurry
and metal filings created by the
sha rpening process.
Honing-Excellent. Strops
have the potential of rounding
over an edge, but you shouldn't
have a problem provided that you
maintain a light touch. The strop
can also refresh an edge several
times before regrinding.
Honing
Regular light honings are good
for e)Ctending edge life.
June 2009
Attack of
the clones
If imitation is the sincerest form
of flattery, then it's an indication
that Tormek was on the right
track when they unveiled the
Supergrind. Several manufacturers
now offer slow-speed wet
grinders that bear a remarkable
resemblance to the original.
The Jet JSSG-10 ($349.99)
is one of the closest copies.
Although they appear similar,
jet's sharpener offers torque
adjustment and variable speed
control, intended to enable the
user to compensate for wheel
diameter loss. Tormek claims its
sharpener doesn't need these
controls, and after a decade
or so of using one, I agree.
The most noticeable difference
Is the qualitv of the accessories
and wheels. Based on those I've
seen, non-Tormek jigs cost less
but seem chintzy. Even when
used with a stone grader, the
competitors' wheels Jeft a rougher
finish. I found myself resorting to
my waterstones for touch-ups.
If price is an issue (and when is
it not?) these systems are worth
consideration . Unlike a grinder,
they won't burn tools or throw
sparks, but it seems unlikely that
they'll match the performance or
proven reliability of the original.
You get what you pay for.
woodcraftmagazme.com 63
Horizontal Disc Sharpeners
As intuitive as an eJectric pencil shorpene~ but not as handy
as a grinder for turning tools or major m etal removal.
T here are other hor izontal
disc sharpeners. but in term s
of versatility, simplicity, and
price. the Work Sharp leads the
pack. Based simply on sales
figures, chis tool has encouraged
more woodworkers to fee l
t he joy of wor king with sha r p
tools than any other system.
The Work Sharp uses glass
plates and sandpaper, much like
basic hond -powered sharpening,
but adds a motorized base so
that all you need to do is hold the
tool In place. The alu minum base,
slow grinding speed, a nd the
advance-and-retract sharpen i ng
method reduces the risk of burnt
edges co a mi nimum.
The company offers a
smaller Work Sharp 2000, hut
don't skimp. The sma ller unit
won't accept th e wide blade
attachment. This optio na l
accessory is a must for
sharpening pla ne blades.
La pping-Excel lent. The d iscs
work almost as quickly as the
2'·lon8 piece of sandpapered
glass I keep st ashed behind my
64 woodcraftm,ag,azioe.com June 2009
System Summary
Work Sharp 3000
Honing Abrasive Kit
Tempered Glass Plate
TOTAl. .................................... ... ....... $234.97
Suggested Accessories
On/Off Footswitch
Wide Blade Attachment #149512 ..... $69.99
Leather Hone
bench. To make
the process
even hetter, I
outfitted my
sharpener with
a footswitch.
Using both hands to control the
chisel or blade on the disc not
only safeguards your tool bur
also your toes should the tool slip
from your grip.
Grinding-Excellent. Out of
the box, the Work Sharp provides
three options for edge grind ing.
(Add the Wide Blade Attachment.
and you'll get one more.)
The sharpening port is my
favorite. Simply adjusllhe port's
sharpening angle (photo below
right) and stick in the steel
(photo at top left). It is possible
to introduce a slight skew to an
edge, but before messing w ith
the skew adjustment lever, make
sure your sandpaper's rresh and
that you're not pressing too hard.
Lapping
#148124 ... $199.99
#148130 .... . $14.99
#148126 ..... $19.99
#145968 ..... $23.99
#148125 ..... $29.99
(I found that the conven ience
of instant-honing more than
offsets the hassle of occasionally
rcgri ndinga beveL)
T he slotted d isc does what
you'll never ge t from a sta ndard
wheel. 'fhe slotted edge view, as
shown on the facing page, top
left, allows you see a disc-side
view of the edge you 're shaping,
An easy way to gauge your
progress is to blacken the cutting
edge with a permanent marker
and touch the tool against the
disc to erase rhe in k.
The tool rest is th e last, and,
perhaps, my least favorite
feature because it's the mos t
difficult to control. T he process
The port adjusts from 20-35"
in 5" degree increments.
Free-hand grinding
disc enable you to
watch the edge
from the wheel
side of the grind.
involves positioning the tool
on the rest, and then lowering
the bevel on the disc, as shown
above center. After you install
the wide-blade table, you won't
miss the rest.
Sharpening with the Work
Sharp eliminates the hassle of
water (it won't freeze when the
temp drops) and it isn't as messy
as a bench grinder. However,
after a good grinding session,
the wheel will create a sling ring
of honing compound and metal
filings, so you'll want to use it
safely away from your work.
Unless you change discs
frequently, sandpaper grinding
can be slow-going. The paper
wears out quickly when grinding
a bevel angle, or fixing a major
nick. I preferred my slow-speed
grinder for doing the grunt work.
Honi ng-Excellent. The speed
and Simplicity make touch-up
sharpening almost addictive.l
found myself sticking the chisel
into the bottom-feed port much
more frequently than I'd ever
think of using my waters tones.
The end result is a conSistently
sharper edge. (Forget the
microbevel. Sticking with the
primary angle, rather than
ratcheting up 5", will save you
from a lengthy regrind.)
Rest -guided grinding
The tool rest allows for freehand
sharpening on the top of the wheel.
To hone, you have a choice
of the honing kit that contains
3600-grit micromesh, or a leather
plate. I prefer the micromesh for
plane blades and chisels, but the
leather's rechargeabiHty can be
an advantage if you're routinely
Wide Blade
Attachment is worth
its weight in gold
Initially, the Work Sharp on ly
ha ndled planes and ch isels up
to 2" wide and pro'lided bevel
presets at 20', 25', 30', and 35°.
The Wide Blade Attachment, a
platfo rm tha t replaces the top
tool rest, more than doub les th is
system's versatility by providing
an easy way to sha rpen wider
blades and offering the optio n of
add ing a microbe'lel.
The included
alignment scale
and wheeled
honing guide
are almost as easy
to use as the chisel
port. To use, simp ly
match the colors
on the guide with
June 20 09
Honing
The leather disc works really
well with carving tools. Attach
micro mesh to the bottom face
to double your honing options.
refreshing the edges of carving
tools, as shown above. Stick the
3600 grit to the bottom of the
leather-topped honing disc, and
you've got a two-sided honing
system that will work with every
tool in your shop . •
Wide blade jig on WS3000
the scale and damp in a blade.
Once set, unhook the scale,
rest the guide on the plate, and
touch the blade to the wheel.
The jig can also set l' micro-
bevels to speed the honing
process. Set the guide in the
sca le as before, but
, reposition the metal
stop on the scale so that
the arrow points toward
the blade. Tighten the
guide on the blade and
you're ready to hone.
woodcraftmagazine.com 65
Wood Sense
Choosing Sheet Goods
Discover 0 whole lineup of wood-related options.
By Peter J. Stephana Consulta nt: la rry Osborn
L umber comes from a tree
felled by loggers in a forest, as
does the base material for sheet
goods. But that's all that the
two have in common, because
all sheet goods. including the
many forms of plywood. are
Kengineered" in manufacturing to
alter and enhance their natural
performance properties for a
better end product. That's why
you don't have to weigh heavily
66 woodcraftm3g3line.com Ju ne 2009
the thought of using sheet goods
for many of your woodworking
projects. Their strength,
stiffness. stability, overall
uniformity, and frequently lower
cost may offer a more viable
option than solid boards.
More choices than ever
Traditionally, saying ~sheet
goods" in the same sentence
with "woodworking" implied
hardwood plywood. Today,
though, the forest products
industry produces a far greater
selection in sheet stock suited
to your woodworking an d
workshop needs, as shown in
the chart on the facing page.
Note: Not included are sheet
materials such as oriented-
strand board (OS B). wafer board,
and pressure-treated plywood,
products primarily designed
for building constructio n.
Current technology
has enabled sheet goods
manufacturers to go far beyond
plywood's multiple layers of
glued and pressed, thin-sliced
wood. Now sheet goods can
incorporate wood chips or
pu lverized wood powder mixed
with additives and adhesives,
which are then pressed into
sh eets having higher-qua lity
outside faces. Ongoing research
has also led to products in the
works that incorporate other
organic as well as inorganic
materials in the mix-from stem
fibers such as Inner bark, to
leaf fibers like hemp. jute. and
flax. to polyethylene, polyvinyl
chloride. and polypropylene.
With a durable "skin" of natural
wood or laminate applied
to the outer surfaces, these
innovative products expand
your options and applications.
So consIder the product list
on these pages as a valuable
resou rce for cabinetmaking,
storage projects, and shop jigs.
What's what in woodworking sheet goods
Softwood veneers and wood-related goods

--
Mtdium- & MOOSiI,
HOOPS
hi"'-d~sity owrlay IlQl'n.somt
lMoo, HDO)

SoIt_~I" fi t
w'dw"'e.j"I!~utt<""

Approximate cost for 4 "8' sheet .~~ thick, unless noted.

Photos: DClug Rowan June 2009 woodcrahmagazine.com 67

Wood Sense
Hardwood face-veneer goods: several core types available
PROOOCT COMPOSfTIO' "

hltit & Finnlst!

bircll plywood

Common hardwood
plywood

tf!Ittr"'Itt! with
o·onba..:l-..s '.
Ift~IIyt'fd

Approximate cost for 4 " 8' sheet. :W thick, unless noted. Charts compiled with Ben SVfe, Falls Millwork, Kelley, Iowa.

Handling sheet goods if you live within 2S miles. carry about. Ease the load by
in a one-man shop Rent a truck. Some home buying a sheet-goods carrier
Moving a 4 >< B' sheet all centers rent pickup trucks for as like the one in the opening photo
by youfselfis no easy task. little as $20 for 75 minutes. Plus, (Gorilla Gripper, Woodcraft
let alone cutting it down to their employees help you load it. #842598) or solidt a helper.
manageable pieces for more Break down the sheets where • Rough-cut full sheets safely
exact trimming later. Use these you buy them. A home center into manageable parts
tips to lighten the load: or lumberyard will cut sheets Make a circular saw straightedge
• Getting sheet goods horne to rough size for you on their from two pieces of scrap 3/. '
If you don't own a pickup truck or panel saw for free or a nominal plywood or MDF like the one
van to haul 4 )( a' sheets to your charge, depending on the number shown on page 69. A metal
shop from the supplier, don't even of cuts. Remember to bring a straightedge (like the Bora
think about securing them atop cutting diagram with you. Clamp-N-Cut 50" edge guide,
your automobile! Instead, pay for • Hefting full sheets into
delivery. Prices vary, but major and around the shop . See demo video of the
home centers and lumberyards No doubt a 4 )<; 8' sheet of • Bora Clamp-N-Cut at
charge about $50 for delivery plywood is awkward to lift and woodcraftmagazine.com!onlineextros.

68 woodcraftmagaline.com June 2009

Woodcraft #148687) clamped to
the sheet and offset from the cut
line also works. Next, install a
plywood-cutting blade for a crisp,
clean edge. (We used Freud's
thin-kerf, 60-tooth Diablo, model
D0760X). Install a similar blade
in your table saw, too, to trim
the parts to final dimension.
Now, lay down a full sheet of
2"-thick rigid foam insulation,
available at home centers, for
support. The insulation keeps
the sheet goods off the flour
and also protects the face from
scratches. As an alternative,
use sacrificial 2 x 4s, one in
the center and at each side.
When using a portable circular
saw, always cut plywood and
other sheet goods with the good
face down, because the teeth exit
Rough-cutting sheet goods
.k Clamp a plywood
straightedge to the
workpiece, aligning
the bottom piece
with the curline.
To protect the good
face, use a sheet
of foam insulation
between the floor
and plywood
when rough-
cutting the piece.
on the top face and can badly cutline on blue painter's masking
splinter or mar the cut edges. tape and saw through it. The tape
With il table saw, keep the good protects from tear-out and won't
face up. As a precaution, mark the pull off wood when removed . •
June 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 69
Problem-Solving Products

Multi-Gauge maximizes machine accuracy

Oneway Multi-Gauge
tools not only by checking and
adjusti ng your jointer's tables,
knives, and fence, but also by
helping replicate table saw and
router table setups and checking
stock thick ness and joinery.
To determine if the Multi-
Gauge is more workshop Swiss
Army k nife or just some one-
trick pony, I agreed to bring
As far as machine-setting jigs one into my shop to find out.
go, Oneway's Mu lti- Gauge isn't
new, but its problem-solving The setup
promises still turn heads. The gauge is a substantial31j.
Somehow, this simple cast- Jbs. of cast iron that, like most
iron corner can maximize the rust-prone tools, comes slathered
accuracy OfyOUT shop's stat ionary in grease. You'll want to clean it
and give it a protective coat of
wax before putting it to use.
The body has three reference
surfaces ground at 90" to each
other, so the casting itself serves
as a preC ision gauge to check
adjacent surfaces for square.
There's also a hole dr illed through
the casting at 90" to the base so
you can attach the dia l indicator
(induded) to expand the gauge's
versatility. The indicator has an
interchangeable round and flat
foot to match the measuring
task. The 2"-diameterd ial is
Continued on page 72

Vapor Capsules
lefustG Vapor ~ pf1l'l'i<le
WY-a>-use corrosion proIt!ction
inSide any type 01 &r'Id<:tW'e,
The capsules release an iIlviUlle,
~ss. n()(1-\mic rust ~ ttl) VC2-1
corroslOl'l inhibiting vapor into
the air. These Zeom- vapor
~ YC&-1 eor..rsllt- r'IduIi'rom
rooIeOJlls wtl l settle 00 exposed

metal SUrfacoH In an encloosure
aI\d protect tlMm lrom fIISI MIl
cOfrOSOl11lf up ~ '·2 years.
""-
_1I!~Ullkl2-,en.
Gnat lar isfOer 81M1I IIi<e C3llillNl
(l:I)YC;!-l c-ru1'·!i0h5~
CIIJ&W ptaccmorn ~ 1111 .,.".. GnIItt
tar !oct bani. ""'. depoIIt_,
tmII sa18 and d<a~.

Non-Slip
Drawer liners
Z/ll'Ust" Noo-$lijl Drawer Unen
~ \l\!lID' O'lWlDCMIT ~1I!llii.1l
00 OOOOIe!kAy: ~flg shelVes. ~~(3TIiI c!IDammxm ~
t\nIw.$ loolOOIS tram llamaglng
each other while protecbog the
store 1te m ~!rom rorrosioo lor up
to 5 )'8&fs. Lil(lf'! CIV'I tie trimmed
to fit, washed and reused.

70 woodcraftmagazine.(om June 2009 Phoros: Robert J. Sertich

Problem-Solving Products
Continued from page 70
graduated in .001 increments
and has a 11/32" travel range.
Trial run
Despite, or perhaps because
ot; its simple design, the gauge
performs an impressive array of
tasks. The most basic functio n-
essential for table saw and jointer
fences-is checking adjacent
surfaces for square shuwn at
right. Insert the dial indicator
to set the height of your jointer
knives and to (heck the infeed
and outfeed tables for parallel.
At the thickness planer, you'll
use the indicator upside down
to ensure an identical setting
and parallelism of the blades.
72 woodcraftmagazine.com June 2009
Reposition it right side up, and
you can set the roller heights.
Once my tools were set, I found
myself reaching for the gauge
to measure the height of bits
and blades, as shown on page
70. You ca n also measure the
th ickness of lu mber and sheet
goods and confirm the depth of
grooves, rabbets, and dadoes.
at the router table, slich as cope-
Best applications and-stick door-making bits.
The Multi-Gauge really excels at
jointer tune-up. It enabled me to Tester's take
measure the height of the knives The Multi-Gauge earned its keep
and check the para ll elism of the at the jOinter, but the quantifiab le
fnfeed and outfeed table. This accuracy it provilied my other
helped me find a problem that had mach inery makes it a smart buy.
gone undetected until this test. Woodcraft #126979 $94.99
The exact-height fu nction is
Tester: •••
also useful for duplicating setups Robert J. Settich
Forrest Blades
E~perifll1ced woodwor1ten know
ttI:lt FOIreSI blades are ideal for
MmoOOIill9 high-end kitctl8l1s
and baths.
Fornlst blaoos <Jejjy.er smooth,
quiet cuts wifllout splinrering.
scratchiflg, or tearouts. OIM"
prop.ietary manufacturing
process, hand straightening, and
unique grade 01 C-4 rocrograin
Cartli<:lil Mil pcrloct for cabinets.
countertops. and floorirlOJ. In ract, Order from any Forrest dealer
indepel\denl tesls rate us.1 for or retailer, online, Of by calling
rip ellIS and crosscuts. directly. OIS blades are mar.u-
foctllfoo in the U.S.A. and
'Your blades are wilhrut qoosUoo backed t>y oor 3O-<1ay.~­
/he best by mites, and I 00ve friIKJ back guarotltee
th6m i/,/I. '
Bob Jensen, Fridley. MN
Forrest Quality Shows
OUlllliJl(l Hi-AT -Great fy" cutting
T\rrio-siOed voo~ aoolow Pfes-
sure larrWlates. www.ForrestSlades.com
1-800-733·7111
--ttl·
Woodworkor II -Best rated, aD-
purpose blade fa- rips;nj crosscuts. ~flNJ, call 973-473-5.2361
DlnlintHi-.l.t .......
Problem Solving Products
More than a dowelling jig
Dowelmax
Every woodworker lucky enough
to remember high school shop
class has wrapped his or her hands
around a dowelling jig. These
power drill partners worked well
enough for a dowel or two, but
minor inaccuracies stemming from
jig placement or the jig itselfwould
multiply with each successive hole,
making assemblies impossible
to pull together. Struggle with a
few multi-dowel glue-ups, and it's
little wonder that fudge-factor-
friendly biscuits and loose tenons
have gained such popularity.
The Dowelmax costs more than
other jigs, but it promises not on ly
that it can produce perfect joints
Specializing in Southern pine with a wide variety ofgrade and heart content
864.697.4316 864.697.4317 (fax)
74 woodcraftmagazine,com June 2009
and but also that the resulting
joints are stronger than those
produced by other popular (and
more expensive) joinery systems.
The setup
I assumed that all I needed to do
was open the box, grab a drilL
and put the tool to work. The
Dowelmax does come ready to avoid Information overload,
center lH'-diameter holes across I suggest skimming the book
the width OP/4 ~ stock, but the and making a few test joints
collection of spacers, brackets, before watching the DVD.
gauges, and pins indicated The Dowelmax didn't miss
that this was less "jig" and any details. Starti ng from the
more "joinery system.~ Luckily, carefully-machi ned jig wre unit,
the kit comes w ith a manual al l of the parts attach using
and an instructional OVO. To comfortable, knurled brass
~ww.grizzlyforest.com
202 Pickens Sl. Joanna. SC 29351
knobs. The- only time you'll
need to use the included Allen
wrench is when setting the
drill stop and distance gauge.
Trial run
I used this jig to make every
kind of butt joint I could
think of (edge-to-edge, edge-
to-end, miters, offset).
I wasn't surprised that the
joints fit perfectly, but was
impressed by how fast and easy
the jig was to use, especially
with multi-dowel jo ints. The five
hardened-steel bushings enabled
me to drill a row or holes without
repositioning the jig. The other
winning detail is the ../ engraved
into the fence and cure of the
jig. Simply make corresponding
checks on the reference faces
Connecti cut Valley
School of wooawoTklng
LEARNING BY
DOI NG
Hands-on
woodworking &
furniture making
classes for all
skill levels.
Nights, weekends &
week-long classes
249 Spen,cer"!;1
Manchester, CT 06040
860.647.0303
www.schoo lofwoodworking.com
of your stock and match up
the rna rks to position the jig.
In terms of strength, I support
common sense over small-sample
scientific tests. Strong glue joints
are dependent upon just a few
basic factors: surface area for
glue (minus the sloppiness of
the joint), the amount of wood
removed, and the strength of the
fastener. It's easy to appreciate
that dowel joints are stronger
than biscuit or stub-tenon joints.
For more demanding jOints, I'll
bet that two or more rows of
dowels would be as strong as
a loose or traditional tenon.
Best applications
Face frames, drawers,
cabinet and interior/exterior
doors ...yau name it.
June 2009
Tester's take
They say. "you
get what you pay
for,~ and the Dowelmax
is no exception. Compare it
to uther loose-tenon systems
and the price falls right in
the ballpark. But without a
motor, there's Uttle doubt that
this tool will outlive me.
I'll keep my biscuit joiner for
quick joinery, but I no longer feel
the necd for some other plug-and-
plunge tool. I'm convinced that
dowels can serve as a suitable
solution for substantial joinery.
Woodcraft #412425 $309.99
Tester:
Joe Hurst-
Wa jszczuk
•••••
woodcraftmagazine.com 75
 Here's a sneak peek at the Aug/Sept 09
Next Issue's Highlights issue a/Woodcraft Magazine:

PROJECTS
• country French Wine Server • Schoolhouse PRODUCTS
Host your friends in style Regulator • Bandsaw Tune-up
with this French provincia l Clock • Hot New Tools & Accessories
cabinet. It stores 24 bottles and Build an • Problem-Solving Products
provides a safe hideaway for heirloom
glasses and other accessories. timekeeper and
learn how to cut
angled parts with
extreme precision.

• Turned Bookends
• Lumber Storage Cart
• Router-Made Coasters
AMERICA'S TOP SHOPS
We visit Michael Panzana's
SKILL-BUILDING idea-filled workshop in
TECHNIQUES Sewell, New Jersey, a model of
• Five Essential Router organization and efficiency.
Techniques Included are dust-collection
• Antique Pickled Finish ideas and several clever jigs.

78 woodcraftmaeuine.com June 2009

Workshop Mishaps
Face shield folly:
never turn without one.
THE STORY
It had been about 40 years since I last used Q
lathe. but 1 remembered how to do it safely-or
so I thought. For my inaugural pr'oject, I decided
to make a simple mallet to rive wooden blanks
for turning chair spindles. After mounting an
8"-square x 14"-long walnut blank between centers,
I grabbed my roughing gouge and began rounding
the piece. Moments later, the gouge caught and
the blank launched from the lathe. The wooden
missile struck me between the eyes and knocked
me nut. I came to in a puddle of hlond. The hlonk
broke my glasses and my nose. Knowing that I
was on blood-thinning medication and would
be unable to stop the bleeding. I coiled 911.
At the first hospital, a doctor tried packing
my nose, but could not stop the bleeding.
I received an emergency transfusion and
was then rushed to a larger hospital to see
a specialist for cauterization. Fortunately,
this stopped the bleeding. Unfortunately, the
excitement left me with an abnormal heartbeat,
so that mo/Jet WOIl me a 24-hour vacation
in the hospitalllntil things stabilized,
To soy the least, I was skittish about turning
again, so 'finished shaping my mallet on the
bandsaw. Now, this rough-saw" hand tool
reminds me of things I should never have done.
THE VICTIM
Jim Horne, an insurance agency o. . vner who lives
in Churubusco, Indiana, has been a woodworker
since his teens. He became passionate about
his hobby eight years ago and has taken
classes to hone his skills. He enjoys building
furn iture, using mainly hand tools. His pride
and joy project: a Sam Maloof-style rocker.
so woodcraftmagazine.com Ju ne 200 9
CASE ANALYSIS
Jim literally did not have his guard up for turning;
a face shield would have deflected the nose-
breaking blank. But this wasn't the only thing that
was amiss. When he returned to his lathe to see
what went wrong, he found a quarter-sized knot
running through into the center of the blank, which
caught his gouge. He also noticed that the wood
was not tightly secured between the centers and
that the turning speed was too fast for roughing.
SHOP-SMART STRATEGIES
Don't tempt fate or Murphy's Law-wear a face
shield (Woodcraft #14161S) when turning or
sanding a workpiece. Also, if you're not sure that
you rem em her all of the operating procedures
and safety guidelines for your lathe, review
your owner's manual or a good book before
you flick the "on~ switch. (After his mishap,
Ji m bought additional safety gear and took
several turning classes before he returned to
turning.) Further. to ensure that your work
never rockets off the lathe, follow these tips:
• Examine the wood for flaws. Do not turn
the piece if it has cracks, knots, poor glue joints,
or other defects that could cause a tool to
catch or the wood to fracture or come loose.
• To minimize turning stresses, rough-cut
blanks on t he bandsaw to t he approximate
finished shape before mounting.
• Make sure that the ends ofthe blank
are flat and square, so that the drive
centers make proper contact and grip.
Illustratlol'l: MikE' Mader