National Institute of Fashion Technology

Chennai

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

DIVISION – ANKUR TEXTILES

AHMEDABAD

Report by :
ARPAN MAHATO

B/AP/12/1643

SARTHAK SAGAR

B/AP/12/1644

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The following report has been made under the guidance of our mentor
Mr. AO Abdul Salam Sait, Department of Fashion Technology. We are
highly grateful to him, for providing us with this extremely interesting
project, which has enhanced our knowledge with respect to the subjects
and also, for guiding us and providing help whenever needed.

We are also thankful to Mr. Ashutosh tiwari, who was our

mentor in industry for his support and guidelines. We would like to
thank the officers and staffs of Ankur textiles who helped us directly or
indirectly.

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 OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP

To know about the various processes involved in making of fabric (Voile) and
gain knowledge of Spinning, Processing, Finishing and Packaging. To gain
firsthand knowledge about the process flow and working conditions of the
Industry.

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 CONTENTS

1 ORGANIZATION PROFILE AND HISTORY 4

2 ABOUT ANKUR TEXTILES 5-6

3 ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY 7
4 SPINNNG 8
5 BLOW ROOM CARDING 9-16
6 DRAWING 16-19
7 LAP FORMATION AND COMBING 19-21
8 ROVING 21-22
9 WEAVING 22-32
10 STEAMING 32-35
11 WARPING 35-38
12 DRAWING-IN 39
13 KNOTTING 40

14 LOOM SHED 40-44

15 PROCESSING 44-46
16 DESIZING PROCESS 46-47
17 SINGEING 45
18 SCOURING 47-50
19 BLEACHING 50-52
20 SOURING 52
21 DYEING 53-54

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 ORGANIZATION PROFILE AND HISTORY

ARVIND LIMITED
1930 was a year the world suffered traumatic depression, companies across the globe
began closing. The three brothers Kastur Bhai, Narottam Bhai, and Chiman Bhai Lal Bhai
decided to put up a mill to produce super fine fabric, next they looked around for state of
the art machinery that could produce such high quality fabric. Their search ended in
England. The best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price and a
company called Arvind Limited was born.

Arvind Limited with a share capital of rupees 25,25,000($ 55,000) in the year
1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high and super fine fabric. Arvind invested a very
sophisticated technology, with 52,560 ring spindle, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms,
it was one of the few company in those days to start along with spinning and weaving
facilities in addition to full fledged facilities for bleaching, mercerizing , dyeing and finishing.
The sales in the year 1934, after three years of establishment was 45.75 lacks and profit was
profit was 2.82 lacks steadily producing quality fabrics, year after year Arvind took its place
amongst foremost textile units in the country.

ARVIND GROUP OF COMPANIES:

Arvind Intex – Gomitpur, Ahmedabad

Arvind Coatspin- Kolhapur, Maharastra

Arvind mills- Naroda, Ahmedabad

Arvind mills- Santej, Ahmedabad

Arvind worldwide- Mauritius

Arvind worldwide- USA

Arvind clothing Limited- Gandhinagar

Arvind Fashion Limited- Gujarat

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 ABOUT ANKUR TEXTILES

Ankur textiles is a plant of well known industry (arvind mills limited) in Raipur area of
Ahmedabad.

Ankur textile has a turn over about rupees 327 crore per year.

Ankur textiles has spinning, weaving, testing, processing and packaging department. The
company produces cotton yarn for Indian and International market and recently
commissioned a modernized spinning unit to produce ring spun yarn for the Indian market.

The Ankur Textile Ltd. Was originally known as Laxmi Cotton Mills and was taken up by
Lalbhai Group Ltd. In the year 1979 as a closed sick mills. A major rehabilitation program
was drawn up to revive this closed sick mill. Managerial and technical talent from arvind is
being appointed for making good growth of the company. Turnover of the Lalbhai group ia
about 3991 crores. Ankur textile is located at Raipur road which is at a distance of 6 kms
from Ahmedabad railway station.

The company has a full-fledged in-house production and processing and research laboratory
and department of spinning, weaving, processing and packing department. The company
undertakes all the procedure and process on material from first place itself. The company is
having about 55,000 sq.m. area for doing job at the place.

The company mainly produces voiles fabric and yarn. Mainly company is producing cotton
products and polyester products. It also produces fabrics with Aromatic finishes. Company is
making products and controlling the quality of products under the observation of the
manager and management of the Arvind Products Ltd.

The company operates through its division of Arvind Products Ltd.

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VISION
“Be the foundation that integrates culture vision and values, creates an environment that
facilitates the maximization of human potential.”

PHILOSOPHY
“We believe in people and their unlimited potential.

In content and focus in problem solving.

In Teams for effective performance.

In intellect and its power.”

DREAM

Of excellence in all Endeavour. Of mutual benefit and prosper. Of making the world a better
place to live in, we make things happen.

ENDEAVOUR

To select train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities. To nurture talent to build
leadership for tomorrow and to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business
contribution.

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 ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY

OFFICERS
Officers

President

P D Chavda

CEO

Unit Head

Departments

 Spinning
 Weaving
 Processing
 Packaging
 Human Resource
 Marketing

Workers

Grade Criteria:

E1 Officer
E2 Manager(head)
M1 Manager
M2 Sr. Manager
M3 Chief Manager
BM(1-7) Business Manager

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 SPINNING

Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn. The process used for yarn formation
is spinning. Spinning by hand was a slow and laborious process. Thus, many implements and
methods were invented for making it faster and simple. The basic manufacturing process of
spinning includes carding, combing, are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and
finally yarn.

Cleaning is required to remove the trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any remaining seeds.
Carding is the initial straightening process which puts the fiber into a parallel lengthwise
alignment. This makes the tangled mass of fiber ready to produce yarn. This form of the
fiber is called 'Lap'. The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash, disentangling and
molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'. The sliver is then straightened again
which is called Combing. In it, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until
they are arranged in such a parallel manner that the short fibers are completely separated
from the longer fibers. This process forms a 'comb sliver' made of the longest fibers.

Drawing pulls the staple lengthwise over each other. As a result longer and thinner slivers
are produced. 'Roving' is the final product of the several drawing-out operations. It is the
preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. Enough twist is given for holding the fibers
together but it has no tensile strength till this process, it can break apart easily with a slight
pull. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several
sets of rollers running at high speed and finally the 'Yarn' is produced of the sizes desired.

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 SPINNING UNIT
(ANKUR TEXTILES)

PRE SPINNING RING SPINNING

Blowroom Ring Frame

Carding Parallel Winder

Pre Drawing Doubling

Lap Former

Coomber

Post Drawing

Simplex
(Speed Frame)

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 BLOW ROOM
Blowroom is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. The bales are taken to
the blowroom and prepared for the process. Basic operations in the blowroom are:

1. Opening.
2. Cleaning.
3. Mixing or blending.
4. Micro dust removal.
5. Uniform feed to the carding machine.
6. Recycling the waste.

In blowroom required cotton quantity is issued from bale godown and is brought in blow
room mixing wise.

MIXING:
 Mixing is the process of adding different cotton or different materials(fibers) to
reduce a representative of lot.
 In mixing process different types of cotton is mixed thoroughly according to a fixed
proportion.
 Proportion is maintained according to the requirement .

Methods of mixing:
 Stack mixing.
 Bin mixing.
 Mixing by the blending hopper.
 By auto mixer.

NOTE: In ANKUR TEXTILE mixing is done by stack mixing for poly fiber and stack mixing and
auto mixture both are used for cotton.

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Mixing used in blowroom are as below :-

Mixing Type of cotton Quantity Marking on lap

90’s 80% (dch-32 mp) 8 bales Blue

20%(pimabAmerican 15 bales
cotton)
70’s Mcu5 (Ganyur) 6 bales Red
105(export) (100% pima b) 2 bales Green
Polyester (0.8 micro denier 3 bales Green Tinting
40mm,Custer-SD
round fiber of
reliance industries
ltd.

Weight of Bales:
 90’s Cotton Dch-32 (170kg per bale).
 70’s Cotton-Mcu5 (170kg per bale).
 105(export)-(pimab) (230kg per bale).
 Polyester-(0.8 denier polyester fiber) (400kg per bale).

Lap.wt. Gms/mt Length of lap Marking HK of lap

90’s mixing. (18.1-18.7 +/-300gms 45 m Blue 0.00144

kg).375
70’s mixing. (18.1-18.7 +/-300gms 45 m Red 0.00144
kg).375
105’s. mixing. (18.1-18.7 +/-300gms 45 m Green 0.00144
kg).375
Polyester. 18 -16.8 kg +/-300gms Green Tint 0.00147

NOTE:
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 Rod wt. – 1.3kg.
 Waste accepted =0.25% (polyester).
 In cotton waste is 3 - 3.5%.

Fig no. 1: Bales are kept for processing in blowroom.

Fig no. 2: GBR Machine.

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 Blow Room Machines Sequences for cotton:-

GBR1 GBR2

Axiflow

Beater B

MPN (MultiMixer)
Bypass Bypass

Step cleaner Step cleaner

Condenser

Scutcher 1 Scutcher 2

Lap Lap

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For Polyester:-

GBR-3.

Condenser.

Scutcher

Lap of Polyester.

CARDING

Carding continues the cleaning process removing fibers too short for yarns and separating
and straightening the fibers so that they lay parallel to each other. These fibers are then
spread into a thin, uniform web. The web moves into a funnel shaped device (trumpet)
where it is gathered into a rope like mass and formed into the card sliver.

Depending on the quality of yarn being made, the sliver either goes to the drawing machine
or the combing machine. Fine quality cottons require yarns to be combed in addition to
carding. The card sliver goes through the breaker drawing step and then the combing
operation.

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Objectives of Carding:

To open the flocks into individual fibers.

Cleaning or elimination of impurities.
Reduction of neps.
Elimination of dust.
Elimination of short fibers.
Fiber blending.
Fiber orientation or alignment.
Sliver formation.

NOTE:
Total 18 cards all of LR (Laxmi Rieter) (c ½ {16}) make 2 are of LR (c 1/3) make.

Cards details according to the number of counts.

Mixing No. of Cards Canes used Marking of lap

90’s 4 White/Green plastic Blue

canes of 24’’ * 42”
70’s 4 Red canes 24’’ * 42” Red
105(export) 2 Red canes 24’’ * 42” Green
Polyester 7 Red canes 24’’ * 42” Green Tint.

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 Fig: # Carding Machine

DRAWING

Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending on the quality of yarn desired.
Several strands of sliver (typically eight to ten) from different carding machines are
combined and conveyed to the drawing machine, where they are pulled together and drawn
out into a new sliver no larger than one of the original single slivers. The loose, rope like
strand of fibers resulting from this process is called drawn sliver.

Objectives of drawing:

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 The purpose of drawing is to make yarn more uniform by combing and elongating
multiple slivers, thus eliminating the randomly occurring defects.

 Quality of the draw frame sliver determines the yarn quality.

 Drawing is the final process of quality improvement in the spinning mill.

 Drawing apart of the fibers is affected by fibers being carried along with

the roller surfaces.

Pre-Drawing and Post-Drawing

Drawing no. Manufacturer Mat.Running Prodn./Day

1 RSB(Ricter) Terry cotton 1700 kg
2 RSB(Ricter) 90’s /Exp 1100 kg
3 Padmatex Polyester 1500 kg
4 Padmatex T/C 3 1600 kg
5 LRD 02/S T/C 4/2/3 1200-1300kg
6 LRD 02/S T/C 2/3 1400kg
7 Padmatex 90s/Exp/T/C/1/2/3 1500-1600kg
8 Padmatex 90s/70s/Exp/card 1450-1500kg

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 Fig: 4- pre drawing

Fig: 5- Post drawing

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 LAP FORMATION AND COMBING:

Combing is an optional process introduced into the spinning of finer and high-quality yarns
from finer cotton. For coarser cotton fibers, the combing operation is usually omitted. This is
the process of removal of a predetermined length of short fibers present in the fiber
assembly, because the presence of short fibers reduces the yarn quality by increasing the
number of thin and thick places, neps, hairiness, and also reduces the tenacity. The
presence of short fibers and the inappropriate configuration of the fibers in the drawn sliver
would not allow drafting and the ring frame operations to be effective. Thus, combing is an
important process next to carding in the spinning of fine yarns.

Combing is used for high quality yarns for great evenness, smoothness, fineness and
strength. This operation combines several card slivers which are drawn into the comber and,
once again, spread into a web. The fibers continue to be cleaned and straightened as the
web is formed. Short fibers and all residual non-lint materials are removed. This combed
sliver is used to make high quality yarns.

OBJECTIVES OF LAP FORMATION AND COMBING:

Yarn evenness

 Strength

 Cleanliness

 Smoothness

 Visual appearance

TASK OF THE COMBER:

1. Elimination of short fibers

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2. Elimination of remaining impurities
3. Elimination of neps
LAP FORMER:-

Lap produced on lap former goes to comber machine count wise.

 Lap former 2 machines of Rieter manufacturer.
 18 ends up doubling on both machine.

COMBER MACHINES:-

 Total 11 combers all of LR manufacturer.

 Four combers are of 18” * 42” dimension.

 Seven combers are of 16” *42” dimension.

Count wise combers distribution:-

Count No. Of Combers Lap Marker Comber Lap

Running

90’s 1,4,7,9,10 Blue line 5

70’s 3,8,11 Red line 3

Fig :# Combing

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 ROVING

The drawn fiber is taken to the roving frame, where it is further drawn. As the roving strand
is ready to leave the roving frame, a slight twist is imparted to hold the fibers together.

OBJECTIVES OF ROVING FRAME:

o Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving.

o Twisting the drafted strand.
o Winding the twisted roving on a bobbin.

 Roving is fed to ring frame (z twist).

 Ring bobbin (output).
 Ring bobbin goes to winding section converted to cheese or cone form.
 Cone or Cheese form is fed to parallel winder.
 2 cheese are fed they are kept parallel.

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 DOUBLING

Parallel cheese fed.

Doubling Bobbin.

Steaming is done to stabilize the twist.

NOTE:

In voiles (both ring frame and doubling is given “Z” twist).

WEAVING

Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and
the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. The
warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to
side.

Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling
threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is
woven".

The manner in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is known as the
weave. The three basic weaves are plain weave, satin weave, and twill, and the majority of
woven products are created with one of these weaves.

Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative
or artistic designs, including tapestries. Fabric in which the warp and/or weft is tie-dyed
before weaving is called ikat.

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Operations are involved in weaving:

1) Shedding

2) Picking

3) Beating up (Battening)

4) Taking up and letting off.

Shedding :

Each alternate warp yarn is raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp to
form a shed. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through
which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the
vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. In modern looms,
simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the
heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. The weave pattern
determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of
harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.

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Picking :

As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the
shed is created. The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier
device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow
passage through the shed. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the
shuttle as it moves across the loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one
side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and
forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric
to prevent the fabric from raveling.

Beating up (Battening)

As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes
through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation,
the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric
that has already been formed. The point where the fabric is formed is called
the fell.

Taking up and letting off

With each shedding, Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric formed is
wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the
warp yarns must be released from the warp beam which is called 'letting off'.

As the shuttle moves back and forth across the width of the shed, a self edge is
woven which is called selvage or selvedge. The selvage prevents the fabric
from muddling. It is usually more compact and strong than the rest of the
fabric. There are different kinds of selvages depending upon the expected use

25
of the fabric- Plain Selvages, Tape Selvages, Split Selvages, Fused Selvages,
Leno Selvages and Tucked Selvages.

NOTE : In ANKUR TEXTILES mainly plain, satin and twill weave is made, with
different types of selvedge designs.

WEAVING DEPARTMENT (ANKUR TEXTILE):

DRAWING-
WINDING WARPING SIZING
IN

Two section :

a) Preparatory.
b) Loom shed.

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Winding

There are 9 winding m/c’s

a) 3 m/c ( Murata make)

b) 3 m/c Doubling.

Autocomer (Schafhorst) (German Company)

 238nm/c -4 {Electronics}
 With knotting Uster
 With Splicing
 538 {Mechanical}
 Murata-3 x-5 Latest autocomber
 Knotting m/c(238)-only double yarn
 Autocomber-538
- with 10 spindle 1 knot.
- with 10 spindle 2 knot.
- splicer = 1/80 Ne,terry cotton 2/80

There are 3 Doubling machines:

 Oerlikon
 Schlafhorst
 Splicing

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WARPING MACHINES :

 Bhagwati-2 m/c (Electrical), (Hydraulic Break)

 Indiquip-4 m/c (Mechanical), (Clutch Break)

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 PROCESS SEQUENCE

RING FRAME

AUTOCONER

PARALLEL WINDING

DOUBLING

STEAMING

AUTOCONER

SINGEING

STEAMING

WARPING

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 PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR WEAVING

RING FRAME BOBBIN

SINGLE WINDING

PARALLEL WINDING

DOUBLING FRAME

STEAMING

DOUBLE WINDING

SINGING

WARPING

LOOM SHED

GREY FABRIC

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 WINDING

 Yarn from the spinning frame is next wound onto large spools or
packages in a process called winding. These spools or packages are
now use in weaving, knitting and other operations. In some cases,
packages of yarns may be dyed prior to knitting or weaving. This
allows colored patterns to be produced in the fabric.

 Ring spinning produces yarn in a package form called cops. Since

cops from ring frames are not suitable for further processing, the
winding process serves to achieve additional objectives made
necessary by the requirements of the subsequent processing stages.

Following are the tasks of winding process:

1. Extraction of all disturbing yarn faults such as the short, long thick
,long thin, spinners doubles, etc
2. Manufacture of cones having good drawing - off properties and with
as long a length of yarn as possible
3. paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process
4. introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots
5. achievement of a high machine efficiency i.e. high production level.

 The winding process therefore has the basic function of obtaining a

larger package from several small ring bobbins. This conversion
process provides one with the possibility of cutting out unwanted and
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 problematic objectionable faults. The process of removing such
objectionable faults is called as yarn clearing.

No of machine in winding department : 9

 Autoconer 238 machine (SCHLAFHORST) :4

 Autoconer 138 machine (PADMATEX) : 2
 Match corner machine : 3

PRODUCTION OF AUTOCORNER

= (winding speed/ y.p.m. *time*efficiency) / (840*2.2* count)

=6.42 kg/day/machine

MACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 238 )

 Bobbin peg
 Balloon braker
 Precleaner
 Tension device
 Splicing head
 Yarn clearer (luster)
 Yarn holder
 Wax device
 Yarn trap
 Drum

MACHINE PARTICULS :

 Model : sclafhorest
 Mfg year : 25-1-1996
 No of spindle : each side 60
 Winding speed : 900 rpm

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  Running count : 95 & 100
 Humidication maintain : 60to 65 %
 Efficiency :90%

MACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 138)

 Bobbin peg
 Balloon breaker
 Precleaner
 Lower cutter
 Gate feeler
 Tension shoe
 Upper cutter
 Splicing head
 Wax device
 Yarn clearer
 Lap guard
 Drum

PIRN WINDING MACHINE

Objective :

 To prepare a pirn of required dimension suitable for shuttle.

 To prepare a pirn contain continuous longer length of yarn.
 To prepare pirn with fault less yarn.

Machine made: LAXMI-SCHWEITER

o No. of machines :4
o Manufacturing year :1992
o Winding speed :9000rpm

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 o One side spindle : 9+9+18
o Total spindles :18+18=36
o Bobbin diameter : 26mm
o Main drives:900rpm
o Tension:6-7 grams
o Gross wt. of bobbin: 0.066gms
o Empty bobbin wt:0.036gms
o Net wt:0.03gms

Length of yarn in pirn: =net wt. * count * 2.2 hanks

=0.22 * 42.5 * 1693

=1583 meters

STEAMING (1ST STAGE)

OBJECTIVE:

To recover the winding from high twisted yarn.

PROCESS:

In this process first the material which comes from doubling frame is put in one basket and
these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine and
the door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this process
takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out.

Number of machines : 3

Feed material : doubling frame material used.

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 YARN SINGEING

OBJECTIVE:

 To remove protruding fiber from the yarn.

 To bring luster in the yarn.

IMPORTANCE OF SINGEING PROCESS

This process is done to make cloth thin because yarn looks thick due to more protruding
fiber . This process is done to remove protruding fiber and gives strength and luster to the
cloth, it also helps in uniform penetration of dye during dyeing process.

 No of machine : 3
 No of spindle per machine : 120
 Drum rpm : 750
 Temperature :730.C
 Tension : 15-17 gms
 Suction motor : 3
 Rocker shaft motor (stop motion) : 2
 Main motor rpm : 1445
 Volt : 8.5 amp
 Gas pressure : 17-30 P
 Air pressure : 300

SINGEING PRODUCTION

= ( winding speed * time* efficiency) / ( 840 *2.2*100*count)

=(820*22.5*60*0.80) / (840*2.2* 45)

= 11.40 kg/spd/day

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 STEAMING (2ND STAGE)

OBJECTIVE :

To recover the winding from high twisted yarn.

PROCESS :

In this process the material which comes from the singeing department is put in one basket
and these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine
and the door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this
process takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out.

Number of machines : 3

Feed material : singed yarn used.

36
 WARPING

 Warping is the process to collect a pre-determined number of ends from cross

wound package and from a sheet on the beam. It is followed by winding, in this
process 400 to 600 parallel ends are taken in a sheet form and is wounded on a
beam.
 The new yarns are knotted with the old ones to draw them through the guides
easily.

 Drawing all the yarns through the guides in the creel is called creel dressing.
 It is the process of determining the length of one section by passing the warp yarn
through another movable reed.

 After drawing the yarns parameters required are feed on the machine like warping
speed, section length, number of ends etc.
 It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the large beam depending upon the
length of warp yarn required.

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  Automatic knotter is applied for knotting the warp yarns of large beam to the
already present warp yarns on the weaver’s beam.

 It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the weaver’s beam through relative
rotational cycle.
 If the yarn breaks during the course of warping then the machine stops automatically
and the indicator on the related guide glows.

There are two types of warping processes:

Warping

Beam Sectional
Warping Warping

S. No. Parameters
1. Yarn Count
2. F to F distance
3. Pitch
4. Actual Pitch
5. Number of ends (total)
6. Number of ends (F)
7. Number of ends (M)
8. Number of ends (L)
9. Section Width (F)
10. Section Width (M)
11. Section Width (L)

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 12. Max. Warp Length
13. Warping Length
14. First Lease
15. Last Lease
16. Warping Speed
17. Piece Length
18. Total no. of sections

Number of machines : 4

Warping type : ( sectional warping)

INDEQUIP1 : creel capacity = 512 ends.

INDEQUIP2 : creel capacity = 500 ends.

BHAGWATI 1 : creel capacity = 480 ends.

BHAGWATI 2 : creel capacity = 612 ends.

STOP MOTION IN MACHINE:

 Electric stop motion.

 Break stop motion.

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FACTORS AFFECTING THE PRODUCTION:

 Time taken for creeling.

 Length of warp wound on the beam

 Number of supply package

 Quality of yarn

 Speed of machine

 Frequency of changes in quality and count of yarn.

 Machine stoppages due to spinning and winding faults

PRODUCTION IN WARPING:

Weight of yarn = total weight of beam – weight of beam

= 260-80

= 180 kgs

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 DRAWING-IN

OBJECTIVE:

 To drive the ends through eyes of healds and dents to feed with the help of reed
hook.

 The warp threads are passed in pre- determined order through healds and feed of
appropriate count and reed according to manufacturing particulars of cloth,
generally one end is drawn through the eye of heald and two ends are drawn
through the dent of reed.

 The drawing in the beam is mounted on the loom for weaving process.

 Equipment needed for mounting heald frames and the reed is called upright frame.

MANUAL DRAWING-IN

 This process is done by drawer.

MECHANICAL DRAWING-IN

 It is done by machines.
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NOTE : In ANKUR TEXTILES, manual drawing-in process is used.

TYPES OF HEALDS USED IN MILL :

1. COTTON HEALDS

2. FLAT STEEL WIRE HEALD

KNOTTING

For using new beam without removing end from old beam. Beam ends and drawn ends are
knotted together for making warp sheet.

Knots: 400 knots/min.

NOTE: Weaves are also decided according to the latest trends and marketing study.

NOTE : Weaving is done by power looms (shuttle looms) in ANKUT TEXTILES and there are
two types of looms based on design.

LOOM SHED
Objective:

 To produce the defect free fabric.

 To remove warp break/slacks.

 To stop the damage mantling.

 To remove weft breaks/slacks.

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Loom’s Motion:

o Main and auxiliary motion.

o Seeding [positive].

o Picking [negative].

o Beating-up [positive].

o Let-off motion [semi positive].

o Take up motion.

o Center weft fork stop motion.

o Warp stop motion.

o Loose read warp protector motion.

o Single pick motion.

o Reversing motion.

o Auto pirn changing device.

o Electrical feeler for pirn changing.

Total number of looms : 72

Loom size : 180cm = 48 looms

Loom size : 150 cm = 24 looms

Machine particulars:

LOOM SIZE : 180 cm

Rpm : 196

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LOOM SIZE : 150 CM

Rpm : 205

 Average production per day of ANKUT TEXTILES – 80 meter day per loom.

NOTE: PPI depends on the order received.

Export quality count= 105, 2/105

PPI- 64, EPI – 64

GREY WIDTH = 160 cm or 95 cm

PRODUCTS OF ANKUR TEXTILES FAMOUS IN INDIA

1. Trade name- chakori (monopoli)

 Quality – 80088

 100% cotton – blouse material

 Reed * pick = 72 * 72

 Count = 2/94 singed yarn

 GREY WIDTH = 100 cm

 FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm

 GREY WEIGHT = 86 – 87 gm

2. TIP TOP

 100% polyester blouse material

 Reed * pick= 80*80

 Count = 2/81 PC * 2/81 PC

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  Carbonizing is done to remove cotton to make it 100 % polyester ( passing the fabric
through sulphuric acid).

 GREY WIDTH = 91 cm

 FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm

 GREY WEIGHT = 115 gm / mtr.

3. Mulberry

4. Padmini

5. Dolphin

6. Rosemerry

DEFECTS DURING WEAVING

 Warp break.

 Warp slacks

 Weft breaks

 Weft slacks

Causes of stoppages:

 Warp and weft brakes.

 Shuttle trap.

 Banging off.

 Pkg. changes.

 No shuttle transfer.

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  Break after transfer.

 Damage mentioning.

Production Calculation:

Prod. Of loom/day/machine = Rpm * 60 *24.

39.37*picks/inches

Production depends on the value of Rpm of loom and PPI.

NOTE : average production of ANKUR TEXTILES is 80 mtrs per day .

PROCESSING

GREY INSPECTION DEPARTMENT

To remove projecting yarns and stains or weaving faults.

 In grey inspection department fabric are observed on light surface. By light,

projecting yarns which are present on fabric in which both side are easily seen.
 In inspection of grey fabric projecting yarns are remove and cut from middle and
selvedge of fabric.
 Weaving faults like reed marks, knots, slub, parallel and single yarn faults, sludge etc.
Are removed from the grey fabric.
 Unwashable stains are removed chemically.

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GREY FOLDING
o In grey folding, fabric is fold for farther process after grey inspection.
o In half rotation 1 mt. of fabric is fold.
o Then fabric is send to stitching, were according to requirement stitching is done.
o No. of inspection table = 8
o No. of folding m/c = 2

SINGEING
Singeing is done to remove the protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric, if protruding
fibers are not removed uniform penetration of dye cannot be done, and during printing
sharp print design will not have the same desired effect. It is a necessary process for dyeing
and printing process.

Singeing process is given to the cotton fabric generally in grey stage but
in case of polyester- cotton blend fabric this operation is given after dyeing of polyester
portion. If it is done in grey stage the protruding fibers gets melted and forms bead on
surface of fabric and this creates problem in dyeing ( shade variation can happen ).

Singing machines in Ankur Textile:

 Machine Name - ASTHOFF SENGE

 Manufactured From - GERMANY
 Burner Distance - 10mm
 Gas and air ratio - 1:4

Parameters for singeing process are as follows:-

PARAMETER FOR P- C BLEND FOR COTTON

1. machine speed 10 m/min 80 m/min
2. flame intensity 06 mili 10 mili
3. temperature 100.C 120.C
4. time of contact of fabric to 0.55 sec 0.75 sec
flame

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PARTS OF SINGEING MACHINE:

1. Batch of fabric
2. Pre cleaning section
3. Exhaust
4. Brush roller
5. Guide roller
6. Singeing section
7. Flame

DESIZING PROCESS
Objective:

The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste applied on the warp yarn before weaving
process, this size paste remains on the fabric produced after weaving. Usually an emulsifying
agent is added to sizing mixture to facilitate its removal from cloth.

It is necessary to remove the size paste from cloth because hydrophobicity

of this material causes problem during wet processing like less penetration of chemical and
less absorption of chemical.

PROCESS:

In ANKUR TEXTILES enzymatic desizing is done for the fabrics.

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SCOURING

After desizing, the cloth still contains fats and waxes (both natural and added), due to its
presence absorbency of the cloth is adversely affected. This leads to improper dyeing and
finishing in the subsequent processes. These impurities are removed from the fabric in the
‘scouring’ processes.

The oils and fats are higher fatty acids of in organic compounds. They are hydrophobic
substances and affect the absorbency of the cloth. The outer hydrophobic layer has to be
removed to make the fabric absorbent.

The process by which this water resistant layer is removed from the fabric is called
“Scouring”.

Note:

“Kiers” are used for scouring process. It is under high pressure, saponification reaction takes
place in which impurities become soluble and then it is removed by washing.

KIERS:

 Open Kiers.
 Closed Kiers.

Chemical used for Scouring:

Caustic soda, sodium sulphate , soda ash.

Number of kiers in ANKUR TEXTILE:

5 Kiers.

Following steps are kept in mind during Scouring process:

1) Feeding of fabric should be uniform into the kier in rope form.

2) Kier should not be filled beyond 80% to 85% of its rated capacity as overfilling may
cause undue hydraulic pressure.
3) Temperature and pressure should be according to the standards.
4) The kier should be at least half filled; otherwise the cloth may turn around due to
circulating liquor and get entangled.

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Kier Parts:

a) Vessel
b) Lid
c) Pressure gauge
d) Safety valves
e) Lid clamp
f) Heater
g) Steam line
h) Steam valve
i) Pump
j) Clean water input
k) Drain valve
l) Valve
m) Caustic tank
n) Drain valve

MERCERIZATION

Objective :

1. To increase tensile strength of fabric.

2. To increase dimensional stability.
3. To increase luster.
4. To improve dye uptake.
5. To improve smoothness.

Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabrics and threads that gives fabric a lustrous
appearance. The process is applied to cotton materials.

The treatment causes the fibres to swell, which in Mercer's version of the process shrunks
the overall fabric size and makes it stronger and easier to dye. By holding the cotton during
treatment to prevent it from shrinking, fibre gains a lustrous appearance. Mercerisation
alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre. Mercerising results in the swelling of the

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cell wall of the cotton fibre. This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and
gives fibers a softer feel.[3]

The modern production method for mercerised cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle"
cotton, gives cotton thread a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid
bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, but also
increases affinity to lint. Cotton with long staple fibre lengths responds best to
mercerisation. Mercerised thread is commonly used to produce fine crochet.

Mercerisers are either chain or chainless and consist of three sections, impregnation,
stabilisation and washing off.

Most mercerisation units have their own caustic recovery systems to help minimise waste.
Principal pollutants: Alkaline effluent from washing and rinsing operations. Effluent from
mercerising operations consists mainly of mildy caustic rinse water. Typically the pH of this
effluent is about 10 to 12. Water usage for this process is about 20 liters per kg of cloth.

Effective Mercerization requires attention to variables such as caustic strength, dwell time
(feedrate), temperature, and neutralization. The feed rate of the fabric may also be limited
by its trength and weight and is usually run at 80 to 120 yards (73 to110 m) per minute.

MACHINE USED FOR MERCERIZATION IN INDUSTRY:

Chainless mercerizing machine = 2 machines

MACHINE DEATAILS:

Manufactured by M-TEX machines pvt ltd,

Washer tank capacity 700 ltr
Nip pressure 2 kg / cm 2
Number of washer tank 4
Fabric in NaoH tank 23 metres
Air gun roll pressure 4 Kg /cm2

Fabric in this machine is washed by “ counter current system “

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Machine parts :

a. Tensioner
b. Guide
c. Fixed rubber roll
d. Floating roller
e. Caustic soda tank
f. Air gun roll
g. Transfer roll
h. Sqeezing roller
i. Wash liquor outlet
j. Stabilizer
k. Washer
l. Scrolling device
m. Spray pipe
n. Dancing roller
o. Platter
p. Mercerized fabric
q. Washer pipe
r. Guide roller

BLEACHING

Objective

1. Removal of colouring matter.

2. Increases whiteness.
Bleaching means whitening or oxidizing a substance. Bleach is a chemical that can produce
these effects. Common chemical bleaches include sodium hypochlorite, or "chlorine
bleach," and "oxygen bleach," which contains hydrogen peroxide. "Bleaching powder" is
calcium hypochlorite.

Bleaching is a process to make the fabric or yarn look brighter and whiter. This is achieved
by oxidizing or reducing the coloring matters in to colorless form. Mostly widely used textile
bleaching method is Hydrogen Peroxide bleaching. This is carried out in an alkaline bath at
about 80 to 85°C at a pH of 11.

52
Bleaching powder may be used for bleaching cotton and linen. The fabric is soaked in a
weak aqueous suspension of bleaching powder and exposed to the air when hypochlorous
acid is liberated and causes bleaching by oxidation. The process is completed after repeated
boiling, washing and exposure to sunlight for up till 6 months.

Bleaching of textiles can be classified in to oxidative bleaching and reductive bleaching.

Oxidative bleaching

Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite, sodium

chlorite or hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibre like cotton ,jute, wool, bamboo are all generally
bleached with oxidative methods.

Reductive bleaching

Reductive method of bleaching is done with Sodium hydrosulphite, a powerful reducing

agent. Fibres like Polyamide, Polyacrylics and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive
bleaching technology.

 In ANKUR TEXTILES full bleaching is done to give maximum whiteness to fabric. In

bleaching process, Sodium hypo chlorite ( NaOCl) is used then fabric is treated with
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2). First process is known as chemicking ( chemic). Manual
bleaching process is practiced in the industry and the fabric is present in rope form.
Process is not continuous.

CHEMICKING PROCESS:

In this process sodium hypochlorite is used.

Procedure :

 Hydrolysis

NaOCl + H2O – NaOH + HOCl

 Bleaching agent release

HOCl – HCl + (O)

 Maximum HOCl development

NaOCl + HCl – NaCl +HOCl

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  Formation of free chlorine

HOCl + HCl – H2O +Cl2

SOURING
In this process neutralization of fabric is done by using dilute mineral acid after bleaching
process and removes surface deposits from fabric, souring is carried out in dilute acid.

This process is necessary after bleaching because by this process traces of

oxidizing bleaching agent are also removed from the fabric. In this process concentration of
acid and temperature should be controlled.

CHEMICAL USED: 2 gm/ ltr HCl

TEMPERATURE : room temperature

MACHINE USED : washing machine

TIME: 1 hour

TEMPERATURE : 35- 40 .C

ROPE WASHER :

a. Water
b. Water tank
c. Eye pot
d. Fabric in rope form
e. Rubber roller
f. Winch
g. Fabric controlling plate
h. Chemical inlet
i. Water inlet
j. Drain valve

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 DYEING
In ANKUR TEXTILES dyeing department uses generally Reactive dyes, vat, sulphur dyes for
cotton and disperse dyes for polyester material. Reactive dyes and vat dyes are widely used
for cotton materials dyes used in the industry are of following manufacturers :

Reactive Dyes from M. ghmani Dyes

Sulphur Dyes from Bhanu Dyes

Vat Dyes from Atul Dyes

Disperse Dyes from Colourtex Dyes.

CARBONIZATION:

In order to obtain 100% polyester fabric this process is done, 100% polyester fabric cannot
be get by weaving process so first polyester- cellulosic blend is made then by using
carbonization process cellulosic portion from P-C blend is removed. This process is
particularly dine for the blose material of TIP- TOP brand of ANKUR TEXTILES.

Machine:

Jigger Machine

Chemical Used:

70% H2S04 soda ash (20 g/l)

Time:

4 Hours

Process:

Step 1st:- 1000 meters of fabric is taken for carbonization process on jigger m/c.

Step 2nd:- 4 turns are given in conc. H2SO4 in 1 hour.

Step 3rd:-Fabric is washed for 1 hour (4 turns) and given soda ash wash.

Step 4th:-Fabric is again washed for 1 hour (4 turns).

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Optical Brightening process (OBA):

Object:

This process is given to make fabric pure white.

Optical brightening agents are physical bleaching agents

OBA make fabric more reflective by absorbing ultra violet rays of light and transfer them in
blue violet range and fabric looks pure white, it is done by two methods

1. Exhaustion method
2. Padding method

In ANKUR TEXTILES fabric stenter machine is used for P-C blend.

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 Packaging
Packaging is an important unit in the Textile mill of Ankur Div. since it produces fabric both
for Export and Local Market with maximum turnover in Export quality. Arvind ankur has two
warehouses for packaging. One main inside the factory and another outside. The outside
one hire labours from various contractors while the main warehouse has its own labours
working for Arvind.

The main warehouse is used for packing and storing of export quality fabrics which are
exported to various foreign countries like Dubai, Switzerland, Mauritius etc. Packaging is
carried out in Roll form and folded form. Proper care is taken for packing of Aroma finished
fabrics which are cut into smaller units and packed in plastic bags. The special aroma
finished fabrics retain its smell till 7-8 wash with this type of packing.

57
Conclusion
This textile internship for two weeks provided us a great opportunity to learn and
experience all the processes involved in making a fabric from the fiber stage till the finished
fabric in a textile industry. Also through this we had an opportunity to visit Ahmedabad
regarded as the textile hub of India. We came to know about the culture and had an
experience to interact with the people. This experience will help us in understanding the
basics of a Garment Industry and will be helpful in pursuing our career in this field.

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