Basics of
KNITTING - An introduction
VASANT R KOTHARI - has done
Master’s in Textiles Technology
from DKTE’s Textile and
Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji
(Shivaji University, Kolhapur),
Maharashtra. He has also done
Diploma in Export management
(Apparel Export) from the Indian
Institute of Export Management,
and Garment Export and
Merchandising Management from
NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s
working as an Assistant Professor
in Department of Fashion
Technology, NIFT, Bangalore.
(This is his first input from the
series of articles that will be
published in upcoming issues of
knitting Views)
20/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2010
K nitting is the second most frequently used method of fabric
construction. The term “Knitting” describes the technique of
constructing textile structures by forming a continuous length of yarn into
columns of vertically intermeshed loops.
Knitted fabrics have been gaining popularity during the past two decades,
thanks to the increased versatility of techniques and adaptability of the
many new manmade fibres. Knitted fabrics are now widely used in the
applications where woven fabrics formerly predominated. Today, the usage
of knitted fabrics ranges from hosiery, underwear, sweaters, slacks, to rugs
and other home furnishings.
Why knits are popular?
Knitted fabrics are popular today because:
• It is usually soft and drapes well
• It molds and moves easily with body movement
• It has good stretch ability
• It resists wrinkles
• Most importantly, knits relate well to contemporary life-styles
History
From the beginning the art of knitting was an occupation for women.
Traditional hand knitting, using knitting needles or pins, has been
practiced for thousands of years. The earliest example of true knitting is
a pair of knitting socks found in Egypt, dating back to 1100 A.D -just over
9 centuries ago! Socks and stockings were knitted because they had to
be shaped to the foot or leg. By the 16th century knitting had advanced
into a craft, the first real evidence of a production knitting machine was
the stocking frame, invented by the Reverend William Lee in 1589. The
invention laid the foundation for the development of knitting technology.
Lee’s invention enabled the knitting of loops at 10 times the speed of
traditional hand pin knitting.
Difference between knitting and weaving Woven fabric Knitted fabric
The major difference between knitted and woven structures lies Less extensibility High extensibility
in the way the yarns are interconnected geometrically. In weaving, High elastic recovery Incomplete elastic recovery
two sets of parallel yarns are interconnected by interlacing them Less crease resistance High crease resistance
at right angles. Different woven structures are produced by Generally fabric is thin Fabric is thicker
(For the same yarn count) (For the same yarn count)
varying this basic principle.
Easy to tear Difficult to tear
In knitting, the yarns are initially formed into loops, and then Requires ironing Ironing not required
these loops are interconnected in a variety of ways in order to High pleat sharpness Less pleat sharpness
produce a textile structure. Based on this principle, a textile fabric Less permeability to air More permeability to air
is produced by using only one set of yarns. Stronger fabrics Less stronger fabrics
Weaving Knitting More rigid as compared Feel of the fabric is softer
Converting yarn into fabric by Converting yarn into fabric by No such problems Any small defect occurring in the fabric
interlacement of warp and weft interloping using knitting elements can lead to further damage in the cloth
because it cannot be mended easily
The capital investment is high Capital investment is usually lower
Tested by loading or extending Tested by multi-directional fabric
Not easy as compared with knitting Setting up a machine is easy and faster
fabrics in warp/weft bursting strength test
Less productivity High productivity
Design modification is difficult Styles and designs can be changed As a result of this interlooping of yarns, the structure of a weft or
easily and faster
a warp knitted fabric is more open when compared to the structure
of a woven fabric. Because of this interloping of yarns, a knitted
fabric could be stretched more than a woven fabric, even when
only a small force is applied. Once this force is eased the fabric
slowly returns to its original dimensions. In fact, weft and warp
knitted fabrics have higher elongation values than woven fabrics
due to their structure, and their elastic behaviour generally exceeds
the elastic properties of the yarns used to knit the fabric.

KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2010/ 21

Due to the structure and good elastic behaviour of knitted fabrics,
knitted garments are comfortable to wear. The air trapped in the
loops of a knitted garment insulates the human body against cold.
At the same time the relatively loose and open structure aids in
the perspiration process of the human body, especially when the
knitted fabric is made of yarns spun from natural fibres. Due to the
interlooping of yarns, the knitted fabrics also have better crease
recovering properties compared to fabrics woven from similar yarns.

Classification of knitted fabrics

The knitting industry is divided into two distinct sectors, weft
knitting and warp knitting.

Weft knitting Warp knitting

Course-wise yarn feeding
Yarn path horizontal
The loops are formed across
of fabric
Needles knit sequentially
Possible to knit with one yarn
Cone or cheese yarn supply
Usually staple fibre yarns
can be worked
Weft knitting
Normally latch needles are used
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across the width of the
Less versatility
fabric, and each weft thread is fed more or less at a right angle to
the direction in which Changing design affect the speed
Wale wise yarn feeding
Yarn path either vertical or diagonal
The loops are formed vertically the width
down the length of fabric
Needles knit concurrently
Need warp yarn sheet
One long beam or a number of small
warp beams yarn supply
Only filament yarns can be
successfully worked
Latch, beard or compound needles are used
More versatility
Changing design does not affect the speed

the fabric is produced. It Relatively not consistent and Consistent and uniform quality product
uniform quality product
is possible to knit with
Loops are not uniform Loops are uniform
only one thread or cone
Stretch in both direction Stretch in widthwise direction
of yarn, though
Dimensionally less stable Dimensionally more stable
production demands
Weft knitting machines are Warp knitting machines are more expensive
have resulted in circular
less expensive
weft knitting machines
Running costs is less Running costs is high
being manufactured with
Softer yarn is required (less twist) Stronger yarn is required (more twist)
up to 192 threads.
Short production runs For mass scale production
Small floor space requirements Need more space
E.g. Circular Knitting machine E.g. Tricot and Raschel machine
Warp knitting
Warp Knitting is a method of producing a fabric by using needles Compared with warp knitting, weft knitting is a more versatile method
similar to those used in weft knitting, but with the knitted loops of fabric production in terms of both the range of fabric structures
made from each warp that can be produced and the yarn types that can be utilised. Weft
thread being formed knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into a fabric.
down the length of the
In warp knitting, each warp thread is fed more or less in line with the
fabric; the loops are
direction in which the fabric is produced, and each needle in the
formed vertically down
knitting width must be fed with at least one thread at each course.
the length of the fabric
Compared to weaving and weft knitting it is the fastest method of
from one thread as
converting yarn into fabric, though modern developments in weft
opposed to across the
knitting machines mean that there is now very little difference in
width of the fabric, as in
terms of production between the two forms of knitting
case of weft knitting.

22/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2010