8/31/2018 Refraction of Ocean Waves: A Process Linking Underwater Topography to Beach Erosion | The Journal of Geology: Vol 55, No 1

   
MENU SEARCH LOG IN SUBSCRIBE

The Journal of Geology

Volume 55, Number 1 | Jan., 1947

SUBSCRIBE/RENEW BROWSE ISSUES FORTHCOMING CONTRIBUTORS ABOUT

Previous Article Next Article TOOLS

Export Citation Track Citation

Refraction of Ocean Waves: A Process Linking
Underwater Topography to Beach Erosion Email A Friend Add To Favorites

Walter H. Munk, and Melvin A. Traylor Permissions Reprints

Abstract Cited by PDF SHARE

Abstract
ARTICLE CITATION
Waves out at sea, though usually forming a complex pattern, have essentially the same
characteristics over large distances. Upon entering shallow water, these waves are Walter H. Munk and Melvin A. Traylor,
"Refraction of Ocean Waves: A Process Linking
transformed under the influence of bottom features, and such transformations may be
Underwater Topography to Beach Erosion,"
so marked that breaker heights may vary greatly over short distances along the shore. The Journal of Geology 55, no. 1 (Jan., 1947): 1-
The effect of bottom features upon waves can largely be interpreted in terms of a 26.
simple physical process-wave refraction. In turn, wave refraction may be responsible
https://doi.org/10.1086/625388
for alteration of the bottom features by accumulation or removal of sediments and, in
this manner, be an important factor in beach erosion. In this report the role of wave
refraction is first reviewed in the light of other processes affecting the transformation MOST READ
of waves in shallow water. The mechanism of refraction is illustrated by means of a
Of all published articles, the following were the
few idealized examples, such as the refraction pattern along a straight uniformly
most read within the past 12 months
sloping beach, over a submarine canyon and ridge, and around a headland. Next it is
shown that extreme variations in breaker height along the beach north of La Jolla, Extraordinary Biomass-Burning Episode and
Impact Winter Triggered by the Younger
California, can be computed for typical swell conditions, taking the complex local
Dryas Cosmic Impact ∼12,800 Years Ago. 1.
bottom topography and the orientation of the coastline into consideration. These Ice Cores and Glaciers
changes are computed from refraction diagrams for typical swell conditions, and they Wolbach et al.

compare favorably with observed changes in wave height, thus indicating that wave
A Scale of Grade and Class Terms for Clastic
refraction is the primary mechanism controlling changes in wave height along a beach, Sediments
and that friction, diffraction, and other processes can be of secondary importance Wentworth

only. Finally, it is noted that the transportation of sediments is dependent upon

Extraordinary Biomass-Burning Episode and
longshore currents, rip currents, and horizontal diffusion and that all these factors are Impact Winter Triggered by the Younger
greatly influenced by the existing refraction pattern. Dryas Cosmic Impact ∼12,800 Years Ago. 2.
Lake, Marine, and Terrestrial Sediments
Wolbach et al.

The Reaction Principle in Petrogenesis

Bowen

Studies for Students: The Method of

Multiple Working Hypotheses
YOUR ACCESS OPTIONS Chamberlin

https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/pdfplus/10.1086/625388 1/2
8/31/2018 Refraction of Ocean Waves: A Process Linking Underwater Topography to Beach Erosion | The Journal of Geology: Vol 55, No 1

Personal Access

If you have access to this journal as a benefit of membership in the sponsoring

organization, log in through the member link in the right column.

If you have an individual subscription, or if you have purchased this article

separately, click on the link below.

Sign in

Purchase

Purchase this article: $10.00

Purchase now

Other options

If your institution has an electronic subscription to this journal, please log in to your
institution’s library website or contact your librarian for journal access. Some
institutions may provide Single Sign-On access here.

Recommend this journal to your librarian for subscription.

Subscribe to this journal by choosing Subscribe/Renew, at the top left of this page,
below the journal cover.

1427 East 60th Street, Chicago, IL 60637 Contact us

The University of Chicago Press Books Media and advertising requests
Chicago Distribution Center Terms and Conditions

The University of Chicago Privacy Notice

Statement of Publication Ethics

https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/pdfplus/10.1086/625388 2/2