Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Wooden Vises This is Page 1.
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Barrister's
Bookcase
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There are two vises described in this article, first a tail vise and then at the end a
More printed plans. front vise.

You'll find tail vises on many traditional benches because of their versatility. One
advantage they have over front vises is that there are no support members directly
below the jaws, so that a long board will fit vertically in the jaw center where
holding pressure is best. Also, the vise jaw and bench top can be fitted with slots
for bench dogs which let you hold long or short boards horizontally on the bench
top.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Drill Press
Cart
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Plans Immediately
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Cut out list, Tail Vise

2- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 5 jaws (fixed and moving)

5 Router Jigs 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 6-3/4 moving jaw
1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 12 rear jaw
1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 36 end cap
1- 1-3/4 x 2-1/2 end cap support
Download Digital 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 70 front of bench front section
Plans Immediately 1- 1-1/8 x 1-3/4 x 32 guide bar
Click photo for details. 1- 3/4 x 3-3/4 x 15-3/4 front plate
More digital plans. 2- 3/4 x 5 x 13 top and bottom plates

Workbench

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Rocking Horse

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Lighthouse
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Wooden screws are not very hard to make with the screw boxes and taps available
from tool suppliers, and you'll save some money since boxes and taps are cheaper
than steel screws. Wooden screws will hold up well for a long time, and can apply
more than enough pressure for your needs. However, you do need a lathe to make
a round shaft for the threads, as well as a drill press to accurately align the
threaded hole. If you prefer, steel screws can be fitted onto either of the two vises
described here.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Resources For Building Wooden Vises

Clamps | Glue | Routers | Table Saws | Lathes | Thread Boxes and Taps

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking
Wood Tips
To see another tip- hit
"Refresh" or "F5"
#3- TABLE SAW
TENONING. Build a
table saw tenoning jig to
make cuts on the ends
of parts held vertically.
The jig rides in a miter
gauge slot on a tongue
attached on the bottom.
Construct the carrier
portion of the jig so that
it slides toward and
away from the blade,
while staying parallel to
it. Secure the carrier to
the base with T-nuts
mounted in the base
itself.
Entertainment
Cabinet
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TAIL VISE
Before you build your tail vise, take a close look at how it's designed so you'll
understand where the forces are transferred when the vise clamps down on work.
You'll be better able to build a properly functioning vise when you understand the
function of each of the parts.
The moving jaw pushes your work against the fixed jaw. The screw, however, does
not directly push against the moving jaw. If it did, the end of the screw would bore a
hole into the back of the moving jaw with time. So, the moving jaw gets pushed by
the rear jaw, which gets pushed itself by the knuckle of the screw. Because the rear
jaw pushes the moving jaw, it is very important to have a solid connection between
the two. The outer plate, top and bottom plates, and guide bar all transfer force from
the rear to the moving jaw, and must be joined with care for a tight fit.
The screw knuckle shoulder pushes the rear jaw by pulling against the screw threads.
These threads pull against their corresponding threads within the end cap. Thus as the
vise clamps down on work, it pulls the end cap away from the bench. Threaded rods
hold the cap firmly against the end of the bench. A heavy block, lag screwed to the
underside of the bench top, connects the threaded rods to the bench top.
But that doesn't complete the chain of force transfer on this particular bench design,
which has the bench top in four sections so that it can be easily disassembled. The
first of these sections contains the fixed jaw, but the threaded rods are attached to the
second of the four. These two sections must be securely fixed together, else as the
vise is tightened it will push the first away from the second, shearing along the edges
where they join. A dozen or so 1/2" dowels installed along this joint hold the two
together and complete the circle of forces between the two jaws.
Begin building the tail vise by cutting out all your parts to size as shown on the list.
Choose very straight pieces for these parts. Set up a finger joint jig at the table saw,
using a dado set stacked out to 3/4" wide. Use this setup to cut finger joints in the
fixed, moving, and rear jaws, as well as the outer cap that joins the fixed jaw, and the
front plate that joins the moving and rear jaws.
Note that this front plate is 3/4" thick, whereas the jaws it joins are both 1-3/4" thick.
This means you must alter the height of the dado to accommodate the thickness of the
joining part. Also note that the front plate does not come flush to the top or bottom of
the jaws, but is inset 3/4" both at top and bottom. The top and bottom plates, both
3/4" thick, slide in above and below the front plate to take this up. Thus, make the
front plate with fingers on its outer edges as shown (rather than slots), and make the
jaws with fingers on the outer edges too. Make the moving jaw out of two pieces of 1-
3/4" stock. Put finger joints into only one of the two. Cut a bench dog dado along the
inside face of each of these on the table saw with multiple cuts. The exact dimensions
of the dado will depend on the size of the dogs you use, get them first so that you can
make test dados in scrap to determine the exact size. Fit the dado so that the dog will
Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

slide easily within but will stay up by itself without dropping in by gravity. Don't glue
the two jaw pieces together yet.

Cut 1/4" by 1/4" dadoes along the inside faces of the moving and rear jaws for the
tongues of the top and bottom plates. Locate the inner edges of these dadoes at 3/4"
from the outer edges of the jaws. Stop the dadoes on the rear jaw so that they are no
longer than 5". Make these stopped cuts on the table saw by measuring 5" from the
front of the blade toward the back of the table, and draw a line on the table. Make
Chest-on-Chest multiple cuts with the saw, adjusting the fence to establish the width of the dadoes.
Download Digital During each cut, push the rear jaw only as far as the 5" line, then pull it back. Use the
Plans Immediately same setups for the moving jaw, stopping the cut at 5" along the bottom of the jaw,
Click photo for details. but going through at the top. Use a 1/4" chisel to complete the stopped dadoes, which
More digital plans. will be rounded on the ends from the blade.

Cut 3/8" by 1-3/4" mortises on the rear jaw to fit the guide bar, and on the guide bar
itself for the moving jaw. Use a mortising chisel on the drill press to cut the mortises,
or bore holes with the drill press or dowel jig and chisel the mortises square.

Cut tenons on the guide bar and moving jaw to fit the mortises. Cut the tenon on the
jaw using a table saw cutoff box as a guide. Place the box on the table saw, and raise
the blade to 1-3/4" above the box plywood. Mark out the inside end of the jaw to
show where the tenon will go. Place the jaw on end against the fence of the box, and
cut the waste away from either side of the tenon. Then make more cuts toward the top
of the jaw to remove the waste from that area, but don't remove all of the waste. You
need some of it to support the part as it is cut. Leave 1/4" or so at the end, then cut
that off with a hand saw. Cut a tenon on the end of the guide bar with a table saw
tenoning jig.

Photo 1- Glue together the

moving jaw, rear jaw, guide
bar and front plate of the tail
Bessey Tradesman vise. Ensure that the four
Bar Clamps pieces are square to each
other.

For clamps, click here.

Pipe Clamps
For glues, click here.
One of the most
versatile clamps,
Bore a hole in the rear jaw for the screw shank. The diameter you use will depend on
because you can use
the screw box you use (or size of steel screw), since the box will work only with one
them with pipe of any diameter shaft. Glue together the rear and moving jaws with the guide bar and front
length. plate as in photo 1.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 2- Glue up a turning blank out

Gazebo of hardwood for the vise screw. Be
sure all parts are of equal thicknesses,
and are square, so that all surfaces
Download Digital contact for a solid glue bond.
Plans Immediately
Click photo for details.
More digital plans.

Make a turning blank for the screw by gluing together blocks for the knuckle as in
photo 2. Let dry thoroughly, then turn the shaft down to the exact diameter specified
by the instructions that come with the screw box. Use the box to cut the threads as in
photo 3.

Lathes from Tools

Plus
Good selection of
different models and
prices.
Tools-Plus will beat Photo 3- Turn the blank on a lathe to the exact
some lower prices on the diameter specified in the instructions with your
web by 10%. See their thread cutting tool. Make a test blank and make
price guarantee sample threads, then cut your vise screw threads.

Country Shelf
For lathes, click here.

This is Page 1 of this project.

Download Digital Go to Page 2.
Plans Immediately
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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Page 2, Wooden Vises

Go back to Page 1.

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Make the end cap out of two pieces as shown in the drawings. Cut a
groove along the inside edge of the outer piece, to fit a tongue on the
edge of the bench top itself. Make this tongue along the bench top edge
with a router and a straight flute bit. Clamp a fence to the top to guide the
router and limit its cut. Bore a hole in the end cap on the drill press for
the screw to fit. Take extra care that this hole is bored at 90o. Tap the
hole for threads as in photo 8.

12 oz. Trim Hammer Laminate together pieces for the front bench section, as described in the
project in this site on making a Traditional Workbench. However, this
front section differs from the other bench slabs in several respects, it is
much thicker, not as wide, and has the fixed jaw with its finger joint.
Bore holes into the layers for threaded rods that will hold all the top
sections together, as described in the Traditional Workbench project on
this site.

Titebond Glue
Available in different
sizes.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 4-
Laminate
together a front
section for the
bench,
incorporating
3" Roller
within this
section slots for
bench dogs. Nail
the short parts
between slots in
place during the
glue up to hold
them steady
while clamped.

Incorporate into these laminations bench dog slots by spacing short

pieces closely together as in photo 4. Ensure that the pieces are uniformly
spaced by making a spacer that you place between them as they are
located on the lamination. Nail down each section in its proper location
during the glue up, then proceed with gluing and clamping the remainder
of the pieces.

Photo 5- Fit the

tail vise to the
bench top with
the all the top
pieces bolted
together, and the
whole top placed
upside down.
Check that the
guide bar slides
easily in its notch
in the end cap.

Glue the front of the moving jaw to the inside moving jaw, taking care to
align the two dados for the dog slot. Join the front bench section to the
other sections with a dozen dowels as discussed above, then bolt together
all the bench top sections and turn them upside down. Fix the end cap
onto the end with short threaded rod sections as in photo 5. Put the tail
vise in place as shown in that photo.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking
Bunk Bed
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Wood Tips
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"Refresh" or "F5"
#12- TABLE SAW
SAFETY TIP. Roll up
your sleeves at the table
saw. If cloth touches the
blade it will grab it, and
pull your arm into the
blade.
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Photo 6- Install the
screw in the vise,
check that the jaws
slide easily as the
screw is turned,
and install keepers
as shown to hold
the vise in place.
The tail vise is held in place by two keepers on the guide bar, as well as by
the screw itself. Install the screw and keepers as shown in photo 6. Cut
tongues on the ends of the top and bottom plates at the table saw, and slide
them into place within their dadoes on the moving and rear jaws. Hold the
plates in place with one small screw at each end, which comes from the top
or bottom of the jaw and contacts the plate tenon within its groove.
Mount the bench top onto the leg assembly with the right top rail just to the
left of the fixed jaw. Let the guide bar come close to the front edge of the
front right post. You will have to cut off about 3/4" from the bottom of the
front end of the top rail to make way for the guide rail, as shown in the
drawing.
FRONT VISE
Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 7- Cut slots

for front vise
guides on the
bottom of the front
section of the
Porter Cable 1-3/4 bench. Use a
HP Lever Release 690 straight bit in the
Router router, guide the
The PC 690 line cut with a fence
clamped to the
routers are standard
piece upon which
woodshop workhorses.
the router base
rubs.

For routers, click here.

After the tail vise, a front vise is very simple. Remove the front bench top
section, and cut grooves in the bottom of it for guides with a router and
straight flute bit. Clamp a fence to the underside of the work to guide the
router during the cut. Rub the router base against the edge of the fence as
shown in photo 7. Bore a hole for the screw, and tap it as in photo 8. Join
the guides to the jaw with mortise and tenon joints, much as you joined the
guide bar for the tail vise. When the guides are in place, screw a keeper
over them to hold them in place.
Bessey Power Grip

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Clamps

Photo 8- Cut
internal threads for
the screw in the
front section of the
Classic bench top.
Workbench

Download Digital
Plans Immediately
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 Jeff Greef Woodworking- Free Furniture Plans and Techniques

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 Jeff Greef Woodworking- Free Furniture Plans and Techniques

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available by mail. You may print out the free ones, but only for the purpose of building the project yourself. All
of these pages are formatted to print in a reasonably efficient manner from your browser. If you wish, limit your
print to just the first few pages to print just the drawings and cut list, then take them into your shop. Or print out
the whole file. You are free to use these pages to build your own projects but you may not reproduce, distibute or
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 Shop Projects Listing - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Benchtop Router Mounting A Router

Table In A Table Top

Simple yet sturdy router Instructions for mounting

table. a router in a router table
or other surface.

Floor Standing Router

Table Router Table Fence

Larger router table with Allows precision

storage drawers. adjustment of the distance from fence to bit.

Traditional
Workbench Wooden Vises

Instructions for two vises,

Stack laminate standard stock to make parts for a
and tail and front vise.
solid bench.

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Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Bench Top Router Table This is Page 1.
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ON SALE! Cut List Bench Top Router Table

27- 3/4 x 2 x 21 laminations for the top

2- 3/4 x 2 x 20 feet
ROCKLER ONLINE
SPECIALS! 4- 3/4 x 2 x 16 side rails
See what they've got on
sale this month. Some 2- 3/4 x 2 x 14-1/2 rear rails
real deals here. 6- 3/4 x 2 x 11-1/4 legs

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Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Portable
Benchtop Saw
Station

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Plans Immediately
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Resources For Building A Bench Top Router Table

Clamps | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Routers | Router Bits

Rockler Bench Top
Router Table
Mount your router into
this economical unit.
If you don't have space in your shop for a floor mounted router table, or if you want a simpler
route to a router table so to speak, consider this project. Remember, also, that at times it is
handy to have two router tables and you certainly don't need to build two floor mounted units.
This smaller model is easy to build, store, and use, and will function just as well for most
routing purposes as any other larger model.
On this router table you'll make a heavy duty top, using stack laminations of hardwood. This
takes time to make, but over the long run a top like this will hold up to crushing by clamps
and other hard use. If you prefer, you can use a particleboard or plywood top to make it easier.

Begin by getting out all the parts. Note that they are all the same width, but most of the parts
for the undercarriage are shorter than those needed for the top. This is useful for making
efficient use of your stock. As you look for length combinations in your stock that will give
you the numerous 20" long pieces needed for the top, often you will find combinations that
give you, say, two 20" and one 18". "Darn," you think, "if only it were two inches longer!"
Well don't go buy a board stretcher yet, just use that 18" piece for one of the 16" side rails.
Benchtop Router
Table With Porter As you get out the pieces, remember that you can use pieces with bad defects in the stack
Cable 690 Router lamination. There is no need to cut out all the knots and rough edges, so long as each part has
one clean edge that you can turn upward for the top. Glue together all the pieces for the top in
one gluing operation. Use a lot of glue on the lamination faces, because you are gluing a
broad area and much of the glue will be absorbed. If you lay down only a thin layer you run
the risk of it all being absorbed so that the joint itself is starved. Keep hot water and rags
close by to deal with the mess.

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Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking
Rockler Router Table
Package
Includes table top with
quality fittings,
adjustable fence AND
Porter Cable 690
Router. Good deal.
Porter Cable 1-3/4
HP Lever Release 690
Router
The PC 690 line
routers are standard
woodshop workhorses.
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Keep a close eye on how flat your glue up is. Put your clamps onto a flat surface to begin
with so that what is put on them will be relatively flat too. As you tighten the clamps on the
laminations some of them will slide and shift around under pressure and with the slippery
glue. Lay a straight edge across the top and correct any discrepancies greater than 1/8". Later
you'll rout off that last 1/8", but for now just guarantee that they stay close.
Note that the whole thing can become twisted, like an oriental fan beginning to open.
Conceptually this is a neat idea but it's devastating for your router table, so watch that the two
end laminations stay parallel. To do so use winding sticks, which are two straight sticks, of
uniform width, about three feet long. Place one on one of the end laminations (perpendicular
to them), the other on the other end. Stand to the side and align your line of sight along the
top edge of both sticks. If the two laminations are not parallel, you will immediately see the
discrepancy along the winding sticks. A little out of parallel is not bad at this stage, but use
the winding sticks to guarantee that things aren't real bad.
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 Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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computer.

You can test the download process with one or more free plans. Try these: Shelf Plan, Planter Plan, Step
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Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Weekend European
Classic
Workbench Workbench
Workbench Router Table

Handyman Miter Saw

Lathe Stand
Workbench Kitchen Center Station

Potting Bench Shop Utility Small Bench

Planer Stand
Station

Portable
Utility Storage Bins Benchtop Saw
Ultimate Workbench Station
Router Table

Mobile Planer Portable Portable

Station Router Station Workbench Sawhorse

Craftsman Workbench
Tool Chest Cabinet
Drill Bit Drill Press
Cabinet Cart

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Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Fold-Down Pegboard Rolling Rolling

Work Center Wall Storage Tool Cart Tool Cabinet

Utility Wall Tool

Cabinet Table Saw Cabinet Cabinet

Storage Shelves

Band Saw
Wall Storage Band Saw
Adjustable Upgrade Table
Bins Circle Jig
Dado Jig And Fence

Box Joint Dovetail Jig Drill Press 5 Router Jigs

Jig Table & Fence

5 Circular Miter Gauge Plate Joinery Sliding Cross-

Saw Jigs Fence Basics Cut Box

Taper Jig Trim Carpentry

Panel Cutting Secrets
Tenon Jig Guide

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Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Plate Joiner Combination Router

7 Basic Jigs Review Kit Review Band Saw
Review

Router Table Using Water Spray Gun Brushing

Review Based Finishes Techniques Techniques

Router Bit Cross-Cut Rip Cut

Techniques Gluing Basics
Basics Techniques

Plate Joinery Table Saw

Pocket Hole Bent Lamination
Techniques Tune-Up
Joinery Techniques

Radial Arm Saw

Tune-Up Portable Tools Bench Planes
Jointer Tune-Up
Tune-Up Tune-Up

Rotating
Work Table

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Jeff Greef Woodworking
BookmarkThis Page
Tell Your Friends
about this page. Click
here to send an email.
Thank You!
Porter Cable 1-3/4
HP Lever Release 690
Router
The PC 690 line
routers are standard
woodshop workhorses.
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To see more Shop Plans on this site, go to:
Printed Shop Plans or Downloadable Shop Plans or Shop Plan
Books
Page 2, Bench Top Router Table
Go back to Page 1.
Photo 1- Flatten
the router table top
with this router
jig, which causes
the router to travel
in straight lines in
both directions.
If you need a router, click here.
When the lamination is dry, set up to flatten it by clamping two boards
with straight edges onto either side of the lamination as in photo 1. The
top edges of these boards must meet three requirements. They must be
straight, they must be parallel, and they must be clamped at close to
equal distances from all four corners of the lamination. These boards act
like winding sticks, so you can sight down them to ensure that they are
parallel. Measure carefully to align the glue up with the tops of the
Jeff Greef Woodworking

boards.

The last component in the operation is the router slide jig. This is simply
Pipe Clamps two straight pieces of 1x2 with a plywood router mount in the middle, as
shown in photo 1. The slide jig rides on top of the straight edge boards
One of the most
clamped to the glue up, and guides the router along a straight path
versatile clamps, between the two boards.
because you can use
them with pipe of any Mount a 1/2" or greater diameter straight flute bit in the router, and set
length. the depth of cut so that it reaches the lowest area on the lamination
surface. Wax the straight edges on the guide boards, turn on the router,
and gradually move the router back and forth until you have skimmed
over the entire surface of the lamination.

This procedure will produce a flat surface only if the guide boards and jig
boards are straight and parallel. Another threat to flatness is distortion to
the lamination from clamps. Your bar clamps may bow the glue up as
pressure is applied. When you cut the surface it will be flat, but when you
let off the clamps it springs back and is no longer flat. If your bar clamps
Porter-Cable 694VK 1-
bow the lamination, place clamp blocks between the clamp jaws and the
3/4 HP Variable
wood they contact. Shift the location of these blocks up or down to
Speed Router Kit
Porter-Cable change the point at which pressure is applied. When pressure is applied
New $199.00! at the center of the lamination, it should not bow.
(Prices May Change)
Privacy Information When the top is flat, flip it over and flatten the bottom. This is important
so that when you screw the base on, the top won't distort if the screws
pull on an uneven surface along the bottom. The top and bottom needn't
be exactly parallel, but challenge yourself and see if you can get them
close. It's perfect when the thickness is even all the way around.

Make three rectangular frames for the base of the table, using the legs
and rails shown on the cut out list. Note that you may wish to increase
the height of the six legs according to the height you require beneath the
table to fit your particular router. The given dimensions allow one foot
clearance beneath which is adequate for most routers.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 2- You
can use a
simple
tenoning jig
such as this to
cut open
mortise and
Heavy Duty Tenoning Jig tenon joints on
the ends of
parts.

Toggle Clamps

If you need a toggle clamp, click here.

Use a table saw tenoning jig to cut open mortise and tenon
joints to join the parts of the three frames as in photo 2. Or, cut
the rails shorter and use dowels and a dowel jig. Either way,
glue up the frames, then clamp the smaller of the three between
Carriage Tenoning Jig
the inside faces of the two larger ones as in photo 3, and screw
them together. Use 2" screws and predrill holes for them. Next
take this frame and clamp it to the underside of the top as
shown in photo 4. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure the frame and
top together as shown, again predrilling for the screws.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Tapered Drill Bits

With Countersinks
Photo 3- Screw
together the three
frames that make
up the base.

Black and Decker

3/8" Drill
Your basic hole If you need a handdrill, click here.
puncher. If you need drill bits, click here.

Lastly screw the two feet onto the bottom of the two side frames. The
function of these is primarily to give you an easy area to clamp to for
securing the table to your bench top.

Photo 4- Screw the

base to the table top
through the top rails
Bessey Tradesman
as shown, and lastly
Bar Clamps screw the feet onto
the bottom rails.

Now you've got a router table, but you need to get a router into it. For that,
go to Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top, on this site.

Dresser Resources For Building A Bench Top Router Table

Order Print Plans Clamps | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Routers | Router Bits
Click photo for details.
More printed plans. This is Page 2 of this project.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Printed Shop Plans or Downloadable Shop Plans or Shop Plan Books

Mounting
Tell Your Friends a Router
about this page. Click
in a
here to send an email.
Thank You! Bench or
Table Top

Cedar Chest

Order Print Plans
Click photo for details.
More printed plans.
You can make a router table from any bench or table top by installing a router base into
the surface. The method for doing so is the same whether you are applying it to an
existing bench or building a new router table. A great advantage to making a bench top
into a router table is the size of the bench top itself. It's hard to run long pieces on a small
router table, but easy if the bit protrudes through the middle of a long bench. The
disadvantages are that you now have a big hole in your bench, you can't use the router if
the bench is being used otherwise, and you can't attach a fence without cutting more holes
in the bench top for C-clamps to stick through. Life is full of compromises.

There are two basic approaches to mounting a router into any table. The first is to simply
cut a 1 or 1-1/2" hole in the table, and fix a router base beneath it. This will work well for
certain operations, but limits the capabilities of your setups for the following reasons.
Porter Cable 693 First, because the base is below the table top by the thickness of the top itself, the height
Plunge Router adjustment of your router is reduced by the thickness of the top. Secondly, you may
Interchange motor with sometimes want a larger hole for bigger router bits. But, you'll want a smaller hole when
any PC690. you use smaller bits so your parts don't dip into a gaping chasm in the top.

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Solution- mount the router base onto a 1/4" clear plastic plate, and fit that plate into the
table in a rabbet. This brings the router base as close as possible to the table top,
maximizing its height adjustment distance. And, you can make two or three different
plastic plates with different sized central holes for use with different sized router bits.

Mobile Planer Begin the procedure by cutting a hole in the center of your router table, or in your table
Station top, for the router base to fit within. Make this hole just large enough for the base to fit
through, and remember that the handles on most router bases will unscrew to come out of
the way. Cut the hole using a plunge router and a 3/8" or larger straight flute bit. Clamp
Download Digital four fences onto the top as in photo 1 for the edge of the plunge router base to butt
Plans Immediately against. Measure carefully the distance from the bit to the edge of the plunge router base,
Click photo for details. and locate the fences that distance from where you want the edge of the hole to be.
More digital plans.

Photo 1- Cut a hole in your

router table top using a plunge
router and a straight flute bit.
Clamp fences around the hole to
limit the travel of the router.

If you need clamps, click here.

If you need router bits, click here

Straight Flute Bits

Make the cut in stages. First set the plunge router to cut at a depth of 1/4 to 3/8", and cut
Individual bits in at this setting all around the perimeter of the hole. Also cut inside the outer perimeter
various sizes another 1/2" or so to make clearance for the bit as it gets deeper. Then drop the setting
another 1/4 to 3/8", and cut again. Continue until your plunge setting cuts through the
top. But- don't cut the central waste chunk free with the router, because it could get
caught by the bit and thrown. Cut around 90% of its perimeter, then turn off and remove
the router, knock the chunk free with a hammer, then use the router again to clean up
what's left.

Now move the four fences 1/2" away from the hole. Check that adjacent fences are all at
Bessey Tradesman
90o to each other. Set the plunge router to cut at a depth equal to the thickness of the
Bar Clamps plastic plate that you use. This depth setting is critical because you want the plastic plate
to rest flush with the top of the surrounding table. Make test cuts using a small piece of
the plastic to test the depth as in photo 2. If you happen to cut it too deep, you can shim
up the plastic with masking tape, but if it is not deep enough your parts will hit the lip of
the plastic whenever you use the table.

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 2- Reset the fences 1/2"

behind their first position to cut a
rabbet for plastic plates that will
Spray Gun hold the router base in place.
Techniques Carefully adjust the depth of the
rabbet to match the thickness of
the plastic plates.
Download Digital
Plans Immediately
Click photo for details.
More digital plans.
Square up the corners of the rabbet for the plastic using a chisel. Cut out several squares
of plastic that fit with little or no gap between themselves and the table. Remove the
stock plastic base from your router base, and center it on one of the plastic plates. Mark
the location of the screw holes that fix the stock plastic base to the router base itself, and
mark the center of the base on the plastic plate.

I suggest that you bore these holes on a drill press, because plastic cuts differently than
C-Clamps wood and can grab a twist bit as it comes through the cut. A Forstner bit is best for boring
the large central hole, though a spade bit will do it. Firmly clamp the plastic in the drill
Various different sizes.
press, and set it on a wood substrate for the bit to go into after the cut is made.
Countersink the screw holes so the screw heads will be below the top surface.

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Jorgensen Hand
Screws

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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& About | Safety

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Router
Table
Tell Your Friends
Fence
about this page. Click
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Thank You!

Country Table

Order Print Plans

Click photo for details.
More printed plans.

This rather elaborate router table fence has clamps built into it to secure it to the
table, as well as an adjustment for fine tuning the distance of the fence from the bit.
All this is accomplished with T-nuts and shop-made knobs that have wooden
handles epoxied to carriage bolts as shown in the drawing. The side clamps fix the
base onto the table, then the fence itself pivots on the base on a wooden hinge. A
bolt in a T-nut controls the distance of the fence from the base, a knob locks the
fence in place.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Tee Nuts
Or Teenuts, or T-nuts,
or however you want
to spell it.

Router Table

Download Digital
Plans Immediately
Click photo for details.
More digital plans.

Resources for building a Router Table Fence

T-Nuts | Epoxy | Miter Gauge | Dado Set | Table Saw

Table Saws
Tools-Plus has a wide
selection of different
size models at low
prices. Photo 1- Cut the slots on the
ends of the fence base using a
Tools-Plus will beat table saw cut off box as shown.
some lower prices on the
web by 10%. See their
price guarantee

For table saws, click here.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Cut slots on the ends of the base for the side clamps with a tablesaw cutoff box as
shown in photo 1. Cut up to a scribed line as shown, then chop out the waste with a
chisel. Next use a tenoning jig to cut open mortises on the remaining ends, as is shown
in the Benchtop Router Table project on this site. Cut the tenons on the lock pieces to
fit the open mortises as in photo 2. Since these pieces are short, cut them out of long
stock and then cut to length after the tenons are done. Attach the lock pieces to the
base with screws rather than glue to allow for moisture related movement in the base.

Photo 2- Cut tenons for the

lock pieces that hold the
Sure Lock Miter
side clamps within the slots
Gauge
on the fence base. For
With fence and flip safety, make the pieces from
stop. long stock as shown. Screw
a support fence to your
miter gauge to hold the parts
as they are cut.

6" Carbide Dado Set

If you need a miter gauge, click here.
Economical Freud
If you need a dado set, click here.
dado set.
Assemble the clamps as shown in the drawing. Bore for the T-nuts in the top pieces,
then glue and screw them to the long pieces. Place the clamp in the base before
gluing and screwing the bottom pieces in place. Epoxy washers to the base beneath
the bolt hole so the bolt bears on metal and not wood.

Delta Miter Jig

Rigid, precise tool.

Assemble the fence hinge by stacking the parts together one by one, and place the
hinge dowel within the parts as they are stacked to keep it all aligned. The fence
clamp is just like the hinge, except that it has a bolt going through it rather than a
dowel. Install a T-nut in the base for the fence clamp bolt to secure to. Make the

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

holes in the fence clamp pieces through which the bolt passes 5/8" in diameter.

Tee Nuts
Or Teenuts, or T-nuts,
or however you want
to spell it.

Wood Tips
To see another tip- hit
"Refresh" or "F5"

#37- CONTINUOUS
FEED ON THE
PLANER. If you have a
lot of pieces to plane,
the work will go faster
if you can feed parts in
continuously. To catch
them as they come out,
set up a temporary
extension table at the To adjust the fence, loosen the fence clamp and retract the adjustment bolt. Set the
outfeed. Angle this table fence clamp in the middle of its travel, which is only about 3/8". Loosen the side
up just slightly to lift the clamps, set the fence to within 1/8" of where it needs to be in relation to the router bit,
pieces a little as they and tighten the side clamps. Tighten the fence clamp and make a test cut. Now adjust
come out. This will the exact location of the fence by loosening the fence clamp and making small
reduce snipe on the adjustments with the fence adjustment screw. Always tighten the fence clamp after
ends. Now you can push making adjustments.
parts through end-to-
end without worry that
they'll fall.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Resources for building a Router Table Fence

T-Nuts | Epoxy | Miter Gauge | Dado Set | Table Saw

Box Joint Home | Free Plans | Links | Newsletters | Tool Store | Book Store | Interviews | Contact &
Jig About | Safety

You are visitor number 42169 to this page.

Download Digital
Plans Immediately
Click photo for details.
More digital plans.

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Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan

PlansNOW / Workbenches and Shop Furniture /

Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan

Here's a router table that does it all—dadoes,

grooves, rabbets, decorative moldings —and you
can build it in your own shop.

Our router table base is stable, sturdy, and easy to

build. We made it out of Douglas fir 2x4s. The top
is made of laminated plywood and hardboard with
a plastic laminate top and bottom surface, and
hardwood edging. The fence is made of solid
maple with sliding faces so you can adjust the
opening to match the router bit you're using. The T-
slot in the fence holds accessories and guards.

This project was originally published inShopNotes Magazine No. 1.

WHAT YOU GET

18 pages of step-by-step instructions
including:
special shop tips & techniques
extra plans for table accessories
cutting diagrams
complete materials list
Price $7.95

How to Buy this Woodworking Plan

Download Plan to Your Computer

This woodworking plan is a downloadablePDF file that you
willsave to your computer after you complete your order.
The file size is 1.6 megabytes and will take 7-8 minutes @28.8Kbps to
download. You'll need Adobe'sFREE Acrobat® Reader 4.0 (or newer) installed
on your computer to view and print the pages of this plan. Click on the "Add to
Cart" button below to place your order.

Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan

DN3013 $7.95 Add to Cart
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