Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Scale Prevention
Nancy LT Hamilton
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Contents [hide]
0.1 What is the Difference, If Any Between Oxidation, Firescale (Fire Scale) and
Firestain (Fire Stain)?
0.2 Oxidation: Cause
0.3 Why Did My Sterling Silver Turn White?
0.4 The Relationship Between Oxidation and Finishing
0.5 Avoiding the formation of fire scale/fire stain
0.6 Removing Fire Scale/Fire Stain
0.7 Further Research
0.8 What the Heck are Copper Oxides?
0.9 Fire Scale/Fire Stain
0.10 Ways to prevent Fire Scale/Stain
0.11 Removing firescale once you’ve obviously overheated it!
0.12 Flux
0.13 Types of Flux
1 Related Videos
2 Related Web Pages
“Firescale and firestain are often used interchangeably, but technically can mean
two different thing….Firescale is a dark gray to black scale on the surface of the
silver…Firestain is a dark purple subsurface stain…”
“Oxygen in the surrounding air reacts with copper in the alloy to form black
cupric oxide (CuO) on the surface and a sub-scale of reddish-grey cuprous oxide
Cu20. The silver alloy will take on a blackened appearance that is known as
“firestain or “fire scale”.
Deborah E. Love Jemmott states that the two terms are synonymous. Her
paper, Firescale on Silver Instructor notes:
“Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned ‘bloom’ or ‘stain’ that appears on
silver/copper alloys such as sterling silver when they are heated in the presence of
oxygen. It even occurs in gold alloys with high copper contents. As it generally
appears in the form of blotchy patches following abrasive polishing it is seen as a
blemish which destroys the clear reflectivity of finished silver surfaces.”
Oxidation (the copper and oxygen type – there are other definitions of oxidation) is
the interaction of the copper with atmospheric oxygen and heat. Oxidation is
present in both firescale and firestain.
Oxidation: Cause
Oxidation (cupric oxide) develops on metal when heat, a metal alloyed with copper
and oxygen are all present (hence the word: “oxidation”). When we heat and pickle
a metal alloyed with copper, the copper combines with oxygen and creates
Cuprous Oxide Red (Cu20) and Cupric Oxide Black (Cu0). Ever notice how blue
your pickle gets after working with sterling, copper, brass, low carat golds or
bronze? The blue signifies the presence of copper in your pickle – copper that has
been extracted from the sterling (or other copper alloys).
See the section, on this page, titled: “What the Heck Are Copper Oxides” for a
more detailed explanation of oxidation.
Whether you’ve annealed or soldered your metal, you’ve probably noticed, that the
surface of the sterling developed a matte, white finish. This “white stuff” (as I’ve
heard it called) is simply fine silver – created when the copper is leached from the
metal leaving only fine silver. Over successive heating/pickling events, the white
layers of fine silver build up. Eventually, these layers will be unable to oxidize, as
the copper is no longer present. This is often called “bringing up the silver” or more
accurately called depletion gilding. Keep this information in mind while
reading the following information.
According to Argens’ Scientists, heat in the form of friction from the polishing
wheel, acts as a catalyst compelling the copper atoms to rise and re-bond with fine
silver atoms on the surface. This re-bonding is evident in the micro-thin discolored
surface areas on the polished silver. A second application of heat by flame will
completely reverse this process, as the copper descends downward and a pure
silver surface remains.
*Quote and graph from: “Firescale: The Chameleon Effect on Sterling Silver”
By Martin Ebbers. Snag News, Volume 20 Number 4, August 2012.
So, by creating heat during the finishing process (generated by friction) of our
sterling silver, the copper molecules are racing to re-alloy themselves. They tend to
re-alloy in clumps creating a mottled appearance. According to the authors, fixing
this problem is to heat it again at an even higher temperature! This will once again
coat the metal with a layer of fine silver. Yet, when you go to polish again, the
same thing will happen. To keep this from happening, we need to figure out how to
polish “cold”.
Further Research
Check out Martinus’s website: Martinus Master Goldsmith for ways to
prevent firescale.
Dealing with Fire Scale by Charles Lewton Brain at Ganoksin.
Ganoksin Orchid, Discussion on Reduction Atmosphere in a Kiln.
Copper/ Cuprous (I) Oxide: Cu2O. A stable copper oxide. Reddish in color.
Copper/Cupric (II) Oxide: CuO. A stable copper oxide. Black in color.
“…Cupric Oxide, or CuO is formed when oxygen in the air combines with copper
atoms on the surface of metallic copper. Each copper atom on the surface donates
two valence electrons to an oxygen atom, thus causing the oxygen atom to bind to
the copper atom. The resulting oxide layer is relatively thin at normal
temperature, and serves to protect the underlying copper atoms from further
corrosion. At normal temperatures, this oxide layer looks like a slight darkening
(or tarnishing) of the copper
surface. This protective oxide layer is called a “passivation layer” because it makes
the copper surface “passive”, or non-reactive. There are no “free radicals” present
or involved.
Oxidation on 14k Gold-Filled.
Some metals are resistant to oxidation and corrosion. They are known as
the Noble Metals: Pure gold, pure silver, platinum, palladium, rhodium, etc. The
Noble Metals are resistant to corrosion and oxidation in air containing moisture.
WiseGeek has an article on copper oxides for further research. Also, check out:
Newton – Ask a Scientist’s page on copper and oxides.
Here comes the fun part! Guess what, you don’t find firescale
(usually) until you are almost done with finishing – usually at the polishing
stage. Even worse is that you’ve got to remove the firescale with an abrasives,
plating or other such technique. I sand the piece down a layer or two or, if highly
detailed, use 3M’s Radial Bristle Discs with the flex shaft. Obviously, the best
way to avoid doing this is to prevent it from ever occurring! Please read Mr.
Brain’s article on removing firescale. Buy Argentium.
Flux
Flux plays many important roles in soldering.
Flux is important for soldering, even if your metal doesn’t produce oxidation, like
fine silver or argentium silver.
Types of Flux
THERE ARE many different types of flux. Below is a list of just SOME of the
fluxes available for hard soldering/silver soldering/brazing. Pretty hard to pick just
one. I’ve not used Firescoff but, I’m thinking it looks interesting. Nor have I used a
gel flux – must try!
Aqui Flux: Liquid. Boric Acid, Borax, Ammonium Phosphate. Similar to Prips
flux.
Battern’s Self-pickling Liquid Flux: Liquid. Sodium Tetraborate, Boric Acid,
Ammonium Chloride. Gold, platinum and silver.
Cupronil Anti-Firescale: Liquid. Firescale and flux in one. Effective
temperatures: 1,100°–1,500°F (593°–816°C). Contains copper, potassium,
sodium borate and boric acid.
Firescoff: Liquid spray. According to the manufacturer, Firescoff works up
to 3000°F. Silver, gold, palladium, copper, brass, bronze, titanium and
stainless steel. No need for pickle, washes off with water. Prevents fire
scale. Firescoff flux is non-flammable; fluoride- and chloride-
free. MSDS.
Firescoff RH: Liquid spray. Works with the above plus, rhodium, gold-filled,
or silver-filled, protecting the plated/laminated layer. MSDS.
Griffith Self Pickle Flux: Liquid (Grobet USA). Borax/Sodium TetraBorate
mixture, Uranine 2313.
Handy Flux: Paste. Fluorides, potassium and hydroxide. Effective
temperature range: 1,100°–1,600°F (593°–871°C). Gold, silver, brass,
copper and other non-ferrous metals. There are 2 types of Handy
Flux: One for silver, gold, brass, copper, bronze and the other for: stainless
steel and nickel. The flux for stainless and nickel is called Handy Flux Type
B-1. MSDS. Not great for inhaling!!!
My-T-Flux: Liquid. Gold, silver, brass, bronze, nickel silver and other non-
ferrous metals; effective from 1100°-1700°F (593°-927°C). Self-pickling
(although I’ve not seen it work!). Contains: ammonium chloride. MSDS.
Prips Flux: Liquid. Firescale prevention and soldering flux. Silver, copper,
brass, bronze, gold. Several layers give a waterproof, glassy skin, good for
several solderings. MSDS on File, contact supplier.
Prips’ Flux by Griffith (Grobet USA). Liquid. Borates and Phosphates –
proprietary mix. Flux.
Dandix Flux: Paste. For use in low temperature brazing and silver soldering
ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Begins to dissolve oxides at 800¬_F
(427¬_C) and is fluid- active between 1100¬_ and 1600¬_F (593¬_ and
871¬_C). Contains no fluoride. MSDS. Read this opinion on Dandix before
purchasing: The Art Files.
Pro-craft® Jel-flux®: Gel. Stays put like a paste, but will not run like a
liquid, and is transparent. Jel-Flux produces less oxides and
residues, allowing for faster pickling. No toxic fumes, biodegradable. MSDS.
Griffith’s Self-pickling Flux: A liquid flux specially formulated to make hard
soldering on metals melting under 2000ºF as easy as soft-soldering. MSDS
contact supplier.
Rio Ready-Flux: Liquid. Will not bubble or pop during heating. Gold, silver,
nickel, brass, copper and other non-ferrous metals. Self-
pickling. MSDS. Note: Contains Ammonium Choloride.
Magic Boric Soldering Dip: Liquid. Water based, non-flaming Boric acid
flux. Prevents oxidation of silver during soldering. MSDS – contact supplier.
Stop-Ox: Liquid. Anti-Firescale. Used before flux. Effective from 1,100°–
1,500°F (593°–816°C).
Superior Flux #6 for Silver: This paste flux for silver brazing and soldering
stays exactly where you want it and helps hold solder in place. Contains no
potassium bifluoride and will not release boron trifluoride gases during
brazing. Gentle on metals. MSDS. See this blog for a comparison
between Superior Flux and Dandix, as well as other fluxes.
Note: contrary to what I have read about the fire scale/stain preventative powers
Boric acid mixed with water, boric acid dissolved in Methyl Hydrate, also
know as Methylated Spirits, methyl alcohol, wood
alcohol, wood naphtha or wood spirits (you can also add 30% – 50% borax to
the mix).
Boric acid and/or Borax mixed with denatured alcohol or isopropyl or rubbing
alcohol (70% – 99% isopropyl alcohol).
Prip’s Flux. The recipe for Prip’s Flux.
Related Videos
How to Set Up a Torch – have a torch, need to set it up? Here’s how.
Soldering 101, part one and Soldering 101, part two
All About Solder – You need to understand what you are working with!
Beginning Jewelry Project: Making and Soldering a Pendant. A
beginning soldering project to get you started.
Beginning Jewelry Project: Making and Soldering a Pearl
Ring. Another beginning soldering project.
Flat Square Edges on Metal – Important techniques for creating
square edges like on ring shanks, tubing, settings, etc. – pretty much
any two pieces that you want to solder together!
Getting Ready to Solder – Important steps before you solder.
Identify Wire Solder – Mark your solder before confusion reigns!
Jewelry Studio Safety – Extremely important information that every
jeweler should know! Don’t risk your life or your health! Know the
dangers of metal dust? If not, don’t sand anything – yet!
Creating Consistently Sized Spheres – how do you make perfectly
round spheres? You might need to know!
How to Anneal Silver Sheet – an important skill to have otherwise,
you can damage your metal and work twice as hard!
Annealing Wire – Want broken wire? How about molten wire? Need
your wire soft and bendable? These tips will help you to avoid these
problems and work with ease!
DIY Fume Extractor for the Studio or Shop – One of the BIG ONES
for studio safety. Learn to make your own!
How to Make a Bezel and Set a Cabochon Part One – Want to solder
thin material too thick? Want to set a stone or two? Learn how to
create and solder bezels.
How to Make a Bezel and Set a Cabochon Part Two – Ditto from
above.
Soldering Jewelry: How to solder settings, bails, and wire. – We
solder dissimilar shapes and sizes of metal together, all the time. Want
to stop melting your settings or bails? Can you solder wire without
melting it?