Best of Iceland

Special Issue
Winter Edition
1
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Iceland 2017
The Travel Awards grapevine.is/bestof
West &
South Westfjords North East
Unexpected Layovers Hvalfjörður: The The Wilds Of Snowstorms In
In Wind Lashed Vík Forgotten Fjord Skagafjörður Neskaupstaður
Countryside Pools Wonders & Waterfalls The Top Hotels Best Eats In The East
0ver 100 Award-Winning Destinations!

Dining & Drinking, Swimming, Hiking, Where To Stay, What To See & So Much More
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In this issue
4
AN INTRODUCTION:
Best Laid Plans South 10

– Or – + The certainty of wind in Vík P12
A Brief Guide To Not Dying

+ The best rural swimming pools P14
When travelling in Iceland, the best tivities, hikes, shops and restaurants
laid plans often go awry. Winter that are closed for the off-season, and
sweeps over the island unrelentingly, putting in some favourites to help you
making it necessary for travellers to plan your perfect winter trip.
pay close heed to the ever-changing You might notice our repeated warn-
conditions at hand. The days get short, ings about checking road.is and vedur. West & Westfjords 24
roads are often completely snowbound, is before embarking on a car journey,
staircases get icy, trails get slippery, seeking out proper equipment and local + The forgotten fjord of Hvalfjörður P26
and you might end up stuck in a small information before a hike, and keeping + Best bathing spot in the west P28
town because of a blizzard. As one the 112 emergency number in mind
writer notes on page 12: “There’s no if things go wrong. There’s a good rea-
way to plan Iceland. Iceland just sort son for that—it’s hard to stress enough
of happens.” that winter here is beautiful, but also
That said, winter travel has perks. fierce. Even if it means disrupting your
The prices are somewhat lower, and itinerary, be sure to take danger signs,
the crowds thinner, especially in the road closures, and weather warnings
north, east, and the Westfjords. You seriously. Icelandic nature doesn’t mess
might get some privacy at the innumer- around, and we want you to get home
able pools, hikes, geothermal areas and in one piece. North 34
waterfalls, where the steam and spray And most of all, we hope this mag
shapes the snow into amazing shapes. helps you to make the most of what this + Land's end: the wilds of Skagafjörður P36
And, of course, it’s the season when amazing winter wilderness has to offer. + Must-see spots in the north P38
the radiant aurora borealis can be seen
dancing across the sky. John Rogers, Best Of Iceland Editor
This second edition of our Best of
Iceland magazine tries to take all this
into account. We combed through our
juries’ selections, taking out the ac-
FIND EVERY GOOD East 44

THING IN REYKJAVÍK! + Far east: snowbound Neskaupstaður P46
Grab a copy of Best Of Reykjavík
+ Best road trip in the east P52
BEST OF PUBLISHER
Hilmar Steinn
LAYOUT & PHOTO EDITOR
Art Bicnick
BEST OF SOUTH COMPILED BY
Elías Þórsson
FACT CHECKING CONTRIBUTING Best of Iceland by The Reykjavík
Grapevine is published by Fröken
Valur Grettisson PHOTOGRAPHERS
ICELAND 2017 Grétarsson art@grapevine.is Mark Asch Anna Domnick ltd. Nothing in this magazine
PANEL may reproduced in whole or
hilmar@grapevine.is Art Bicnick
by The +354 540 3601
MAPS SUPPLIED BY Sigmundur Jón Trausti Sigurðarson
Axel Sig
in part without the written
Reykjavík publisher@grapevine.is
Borgarmynd Sigurgeirsson EDITORIAL
John Rogers
permission of the publishers.
The Best of Icelan is distributed
www.borgarmynd.com Þuríður Aradóttir Braun
Grapevine BEST OF EDITOR Ívar Sæland
+354 540 3600
editor@grapevine.is
Julia Staples around Iceland.
BEST OF WEST COMPILED BY Julien Carnot You may not like it, but at least
Hafnarstræti 15, 101 John Rogers Hannah Jane Cohen BEST OF EAST COMPILED BY it's not sponsored (no articles
john@grapevine.is
ADVERTISING Kevin Takashi-Smith
Reykjavík John Rogers +354 540 3605 in the Grapevine magazines are
PANEL
www.grapevine.is BEST OF ASSISTING EDITOR +354 540 3610
SALES DIRECTORS paid-for articles. The opinions
grapevine@grapevine.is Bergsteinn Sigurðsson PANEL Aðalsteinn Jörundsson expressed are the writers’ own,
Alice Demurtas Matthildur Helgadóttir Björt Sigfinnsdóttir ads@grapevine.is not the advertisers’).
alice@grapevine.is adalsteinn@grapevine.is
Published by Fröken ehf. Jónudóttir Svavar Pétur CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Helgi Þór Harðarson
Printed by Ísafold in GRAPEVINE EDITOR IN CHIEF
BEST OF NORTH COMPILED BY
Eysteinsson Elías Þórsson helgi@grapevine.is
Valur Grettisson María Hjálmtýsdóttir BEST OF
25,000 copies. Member Mark Asch Mark Asch
DISTRIBUTION ICELAND EMBLEM
of the Icelandic valur@grapevine.is PROOFREADING Hannah Jane Cohen
PANEL distribution@ Siggi Odds
Travel Industry ART DIRECTOR Paul Fontaine Paul Fontaine
Baldvin Esra Einarsson grapevine.is siggiodds.com
Association Sveinbjörn Pálsson Elias Þórsson Parker Yamasaki
Brák Jónsdóttir
www.saf.is sveinbjorn@grapevine.is Valur Grettisson
Melody Woodnutt
5
A rct i c C
i rc l e
A rct i
Killer ca noeing trip

Grimsey
Isafjordur
Most beautiful
sunset ever
Thorshofn
Akureyri Vopnafjordur
Egilsstadir
Sa w reindeer (check!)
I C E L A N D
REYKJAVIK
Amaz ing Icela nd Expo

Keflavik
exhibition at Harpa
Shape your
adventure
So you’ve arrived in Iceland. Why not make the most of your time and fly?
At our domestic destinations you’ll find all the services you need.
Your adventure is only a decision away. 60°
Visit our website www.airicelandconnect.com and make it happen.

www.n1.is/en facebook.com/enneinn
THE AWARDS
How We
Tank up at N1
6
on your way
Picked the
around Iceland
Winners
Complimentary
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COFFEE
& DONUT
For a small country, Iceland is actual- we convened panels of experts—con-
Treat yourself!
ly pretty big. Maybe you’ve discovered stant travellers, artists, musicians,
as much whilst planning a trip around locals, tourism and hospitality work-
this island, with its precipitous fjords, ers—all ready to opine on the natural
all-but-impassable mountain passes, and man-made highlights of Iceland’s
tracks along the edge of rocky cliffs, four main regions. The panellists
far-flung fishing villages, hidden hot made impassioned and often surpris-
Meat soup
pots, and barren beaches. And with ev- ing cases for their favourite spots. We
ery small blue or yellow sign you drive debated, we bargained; we followed
Traditional Icelandic meal past—in a language you can’t read, our hearts; we consulted a local völ-
signaling a place you’ve never heard va, or seeress; we put a GPS tracker on
of, accessible via a muddy and rutted a raven and monitored its flight. Much
rural track—the question naturally of that last sentence is true.
arises: What did I just miss? Now, voyager, sail thou forth, to
Well, we’re glad you asked. For our seek and find. MA
second Best of Iceland special issue,
burger
& fries
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Classic comfort food
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PHOTOGRAPHY
8
Icelandic
Explorer
Gunnar Freyr is a full-time photographer
better known to his 191k Instagram follow-
ers as @icelandic_explorer. We asked him
to send us a selection of his favourite shots
of the bleak and beautiful Icelandic winter.
“There’s so much less light during the winter,
but the quality of the light is so much high-
er,” he says. “What intrigues me about the
Icelandic winter is the weather—especially
bad weather. The unpredictability and the
sense of adventure is what I love the most.” Ravine Country road
Arctic Fox Highlands Hallgrímskirkja
Mountaintop Wild rabbit

WHALE
9
WATCHING
AKUREYRI • REYKJAVIK
EXCE
SUCC T LLEN
ESS
Sig
guarhating
ntee
Tel: (+354) 462 6800 • info@ambassador.is • ambassador.is

AmbassadorWhaleWatching whales_in_iceland @AmbassadorWhale
F338
1 UXAHRYGGIR F338 Hvítá
41 G LY M U R
52 35
1 F26
Akranes 41
GEYSIR
GULLFOSS
48 ÚTHLÍÐ
1 ÞINGVELLIR
37
Kjalarnes Þórisvatn
36 Laugavatn
365
10
GLJÚFRASTEINN Þingvallavatn
Reykjavík Mosfellsbær
36 35 Reykholt F26 F208
37 Þjórsá
Kópavogur N E S J AV E L L I R S K Á L H O LT
Garður HEIÐMÖRK Laugarás 32 STÖNG

Hafnarfjörður Flúðir
Sandgerði 35 364
41 Sólheimar 31 ÞJÓRSÁRDALUR
F225
K E F L AV Í K A I R P O RT
Keflavík 417
B L Á FJ Ö L L 1 KERIÐ
32
42 Hveragerði 26
44 30
39
Kleifarvatn 38 Selfoss G A LTA L Æ K U R
425 43 S E LT Ú N 1 268
THE BLUE LAGOON Ölfusá 26
34 33
Grindavík Þorlákshöfn Eyrarbakki LANDMANNALAUGAR
REYKJANESVITI
GUNNU- KRÝSUVÍKUR- 427 Stokkseyri 305 Hella 264 F210
SELA-
HVER TA N G A R BJARG
25 264
F261 F210
Hvolsvöllur
255 261 FLJÓTSHLÍÐ
South
BEST OF ICELAND: 250 249 ÞÓRSMÖRK
1 K AT L A
252 SELJALANDSFOSS FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS
SKÓGAR
BAKKAHÖFN 221
Small towns & natural wonders V E S T M A N N A E YJ A R

Vík í Mýrdal
1
between Reykjanes and Höfn DYRHÓLAEY REYNISDRANGAR
A B C D E F G H I J K
Pool: The Blue Lagoon Trip: Landmannalaugar Town: Flúðir Glacier: Sólheimajökull
Info & Booking: bluelagoon.is Info: south.is Info: south.is Info: south.is
Tel: +354 420 8800 Tel: +354 483 4601 Tel:+354 483 4601 Tel: +354 483 4601
You’ve probably heard of The The famous Laugavegur hiking The sleepy southern town Most visitors to Iceland want to
Blue Lagoon: a luxury spa that’s route is a 53km trail through of Flúðir might not look like get a closer look at the magnifi-
the result of a nearby geother- some spectacular brightly co- much to the passerby, but there cent glaciers. One of the easiest
mal power station that pulls loured geothermal mountains, are plenty of reasons to vis- ways to get on the ice is a hike
the hot, mineral-rich water often done over four or five it. There’s an Icelandair Hotel at Sólheimajökull, a long gla-
from deep in the ground. It’s days during summer. It’s com- with a few private hot pots for cier tongue that almost reaches
so popular it was recently en- pletely closed in the winter due guests, an improbably located Route One on the south coast.
larged to accommodate de- to unsafe conditions in snow, Ethiopian restaurant, and the You can pre-book for a hike or
mand, but booking is still es- but if money’s no object, you nearby Friðheimar greenhouse just rock up and join one of the
sential. There’s the large main can still get into the area by café. Gamla Laugin—aka “The regular trips. Note: it’s slippery
pool, a sauna, steam rooms and booking a Super Jeep tour. It’s Secret Lagoon”—is a popular and dangerous, so you’ll need
silica mud masks made from truly a sight to remember at outdoor bathing spot that gives a guide and some crampons—
the mineral deposits, all set in any time of the year.. J2 you the atmosphere of a wild don’t go on the ice alone.
a stunning lava landscape. geothermal hot pot with the I3
Map Square: C2 convenience of changing facil-
ities. H1
GRÍMSVÖTN
F26
JÖKULHEIMAR
1
VESTRAHORN
F985
Höfn í Hornafirði
Þórisvatn F229
11
SUÐURSVEIT
F208
Langisjór 1
1
Veiðivötn

LAKAGÍGAR
JÖKULSÁRLÓN
R
U
D
S K A F TA F E L L
AN
F206 H VA N N A DA L S H N J Ú K U R
RS
N Ú P S S TA Ð U R
KU
ER
1 2
AM
Ð
F206 SKEIÐARÁRSANDUR
EI
BR
F208
GAR
Kirkjubæjarklaustur
INGÓLFSHÖFÐI
F210 F232
ELDHRAUN 1 3
208
Skaftá
K AT L A
209
204 Southern Iceland is home to many of the most
popular tourist routes in Iceland—with good
reason. The coastal Ring Road road from Reykjavík 4
to Höfn is a trail of picturesque towns, black sand
MÝRDALSSANDUR beaches, dramatic mountains, powerful waterfalls,
basalt cliffs, towering glaciers and sprawling lava
1 fields. It’s a completely immersive and visceral
dal experience of Iceland’s natural environment that
REYNISDRANGAR you could easily spend weeks exploring. These are
5
just a few of our favourite sites along the way.
K L M N O P Q R S T U/
6
USEFUL INFO HOW TO GET THERE

Grapevine on the South: By domestic airline:
gpv.is/south Vestmannaeyjar (VEY)
Our articles, info and Flights from Reykjavík.
guides for South Iceland Main airline operator:
www.eagleair.is
Tourist Information: Tel: +354 481 3300
South Iceland
Tourist Information Höfn (HFN)
Sunnumörk 2, Hveragerði Flights from Reykjavík.
www.south.is Main airline operator:
tourinfo@hveragerdi.is www.eagleair.is
Canyon: Fjarðárgljúfur Glacier: Vatnajökull Tel: +354 483-4601 Tel: +354 478 1250
Info: south.is Info: vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is Emergency services Smaller airports

Tel: +354 483 4601 Tel: +354 483 4601 Tel: 112 (national helpline) Flightseeing.is operates charter
flights between Bakki and the
Weather report Westman Islands, a 10-minute jaunt.
This immense canyon, not far The vast Vatnajökull glacier en.vedur.is
from Kirkjubæjarklaustur, is a is, by some measures, the big- Recorded info: +354 902 0600 Ferry to Westman Islands:
sight to behold. The huge walls gest in all of Europe. There are Herjólfur
rear up high from the ground, various ways to experience it, Leaves from Bakkahöfn
with easy hiking trails from whether gazing up to the dizzy Schedule & Info:
www.herjolfur.is
the car park to some high view- peaks from the road, hiking to
points. In recent years, the trails one of the viewpoints such as By car:
have been marred by some un- Skaftafell or Svínafellsjökull, Road conditions
fortunate fencing, meaning it’s booking a glacier walk or climb- www.road.is
sometimes more like walking ing tour, or visiting the “crys- Tel: 1777
through a maze than roaming tal cave”—a naturally formed (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 / Winter:
freely, but nothing could really gleaming ice cavern that’s a 06:30-22:00)
spoil this magnificent natural photographer’s paradise.
wonder. L2 P1 (and up and around) By bus:
National Bus Network
www.bus.is
Tel: +354 540 2700
12
South
Distance from How to get there: Accommodation
Reykjavík: Drive Route One South provided by:
179km from Reykjavík Vík Hostel - Hostel.is
The Certainty
the way to another town; a book- sights in Vík is the church,
end to a 179km series of sights propped on the highest point
that include Skógafoss, Sólhei- overlook i ng t he tow n. T he
In Wind
majökull and Dýrahólaey. It sits church is a beautiful vantage
directly south of “the” black sand point and a photogenic fixture
beach in Iceland, Reynisfjara, itself, and it’s also the place lo-
and lies directly below one of cals are told to run to the next
Iceland’s most active volcanoes, time Katla erupts. For a town
Two days of hiking in the You’ll

Katla, forming a comfy halfway where many people stop but few
point between Reykjavík and the stay, Vík is littered with monu-
probably end up in Vík

Skaftafell National Park. Like ments to the frozen, dead and
the younger brother of a famous trapped.
athlete, Vík always exists in rela-
Words Parker Yamasaki Photos Kevin Takashi-Smith
Our trip started on a piece of path-more-travelled. The roads
tion to something else.
Ví k ’s western hori zon is
But you just got
graph paper. Five dates, each are narrow, the busses are wide, punctured by the basalt sea here...
with its own column. Each col- and there are parking lots at the columns Reynisdrangar, which There are two walls of windows
umn with a town. Each town base of every waterfall. Perhaps are, according to local legend, on the second floor of Norður
with a person, or a point of in- that’s exactly why I needed to get a couple of trolls who tried to Vík hostel. One faces the moun-
terest. We’re headed south: Vík, on this road—to remember that drag a ship from the sea, only to tain that drops into Vík from the
Skaftafell, Höfn. Early Thursday no matter how many versions of be caught by the dawn light and west. The other looks toward the
morning we pack up and head Seljalandsfoss there are, it still turned to stone. Facing Reynis- Atlantic, out over the rooftops
out. remains one of a kind. drangar, above the black sand, is of the town’s 318 residents. The
“The world is getting small- a quiet and strong arrangement storm held us there. On the day
er,” I hear from all directions,
and naturally my inner skeptic
Stop and stay awhile of stones, dedicated to the dead
seamen shipwrecked just off-
we were supposed to be waking
up in Skaftafell, I sit in this room
creeps out as we pile into the car. Vík is a stopover town, and the shore. and watch the cars come down
The south coast of Iceland is a first on our list. It’s a town on One of the most prominent the mountain road. As the road
steepens, they slow down, in drink too much. It was a wind of winter. And some people re- what seems like a mixture of ter-
13
reverse momentum. One spins that reminds us it’s winter in ally do choose to stay in Vík, like ror, delusion, and humour with
out and lands at an awkward tilt Iceland, and instead of hiking Cristian and Bea, a couple work- the woman behind the Reyk-

on the side of the road. Soon the to Svartifoss and gazing out at ing at the hostel, who moved to javík Excursions desk. Clearly
glow of police lights crawls up, Jökulsárlón, we’ll spend it watch- Vík from Barcelona. “We visited confused about the limited road
presumably to advise incoming ing ice pellets spatter across the Iceland in April 2015 and fell in conditions they scan their purs-
travellers to find a place to stay es quickly to change and cancel
for the night. reservations.
“There is no way to plan Iceland. “You didn’t do your research
At 3am the night before, all the before you came here, did you?”
roads from Reykjavík to Þingvellir, Iceland just sort of happens.” the woman asks them with a
Selfoss and Akranes were closed. huge, unapologetic smile.
By 4am, every road in and out of “No,” one answers. “Yes,” the
Reykjavík was closed. A “no trav- other side of the window, as if love with Vík,” Bea tells us. “So other answers simultaneously.
el” storm was moving from the looking out of a transparent we contacted Æsa, the manager They look at each other.
southwest to the northeast, pre- dart board. We will be drinking [of Norður Vík Hostel] and she The receptionist doesn’t break
ceded by a wave of road closures, Americanos among equally in- said she would be happy to hire her smile.
and followed by a parade of ice ternational and stranded com- us.” They moved in and started Each day, undaunted by his-
scrapers and snowploughs. By pany in Halldórskaffi. We will work exactly a year after their tory, we look forward. But of
about 10am, the storm reaches run on the black sand beach and initial visit. course, the most precise plan-
us in Vík. The road is clear, car- test the limits of wetness, and ning always happens in retro-
less and covered in ice. And so,
marooned in the second storey
of course, we will go to the hot
tub. Though it wasn’t what I had
Where to next spect, so maybe it’s best to relin-
quish control from the start and
of the Norður Vík Hostel, we join written on my ink-river-illegible The weather did end up clear- then lay it out once it’s over. Plan
the town’s monuments. piece of paper, it was as “Icelan- ing for the rest of our trip and a ahead, plan behind, make your
dic” an experience as any. There week later I drop my friends at checklist with circles instead of
Practical tradition is no way to plan Iceland. Iceland
just sort of happens. And travel
the airport after experiencing
three waterfalls, four black sand
boxes, be reckless, be restrained.
The only strategy I can offer here
That 10am wind swept the town in general will always find a way beaches, two glacial lagoons is to be light on your toes; the
in Icelandic tradition. It was to maintain its serendipity. and a trillion glacial “toes.” As roads are icy, and the only thing
the kind of wind that makes Besides, it turns out there is I stand in line for the bus back you can be sure of is the wind.
you go to the hot tub, cook po- actually lot of charm in a town of to Reykjavík, two British women
tatoes, appreciate wool, and 318 people during the dead white in front of me argue and laugh in
est natural pool in the country, pass from Reyðarfjörður. It’s a
14
but it's built like a swimming calm and relaxing place, full of
pool and has facilities like a chatting locals enjoying the hot
swimming pool... so it must be pots, which have a perfect view

a swimming pool. It is by far the of the immense mountains of
greatest pool in the Westfjords, Norðfjörður.
located in a beautiful valley mid-
way between Ísaförður and Rey-
kjavík, which makes it the per-
fect pit-stop. The water is also
filled with green algae, which is
probably good for you.
East: Selárdalslaug,
Vopnafjörður
BEST OF GUIDE Constructed way back in 1949,
this pool sits on the banks of one
Pool Yourself
of Iceland’s best salmon rivers,
near the northeastern town of
North: Akureyri Pool Vopnafjörður. In summer, peo-
Together
ple make use of the large sun
Iceland’s second city is home deck and deckchairs, but in win-
to a modern swimming palace ter, a dip in the hot pot might
that’s the envy even of Reykjavík. be best.
A few of our favourite

There are various pools and pots
for swimming or basking, and it
small-town bathing spots has all the trimmings, includ-
ing massage jets, a waterfall to
lie under, a steam room, and a
Words: John Rogers & Elías Þórsson Photos: Art Bicnick 43° pot that will relax even the
tightest shoulders.
After a long day of road trip-

ping or hiking, nothing feels South: Hveragerði
better than sliding into some
hot geothermal water. Pretty Pool
much every town in Iceland Hveragerði is situated in a shel-
has a local swimming pool, tered geothermal valley, with
each with its own unique char- torrents of steam pouring from
acter, atmosphere, and variety the ground in various places.
of facilities. Here are some of
North: Hofsós Pool The water has been put to good
our favourites.
West: Krossneslaug, Probably the most picturesque
use at the charming, retro-style
town pool, which has a steam
Westfjords municipal pool in Iceland, this room heated by a loudly bub-
By far the most remote pool on breathtaking bathing spot sits bling hot spring right beneath
this list, Krossneslaug is located high above Skagafjörður with an the floorboards.
at the very end of a precarious amazing view across the fjord.
gravel road on the Strandir coast The layout gives you the im-
of the Westfjords. The facilities pression of swimming towards
are basic, but the location is the horizon, infinity pool-style.
stunning: Krossneslaug is on a Worth the detour.
black beach, with mountains and
West: Stykkishólmur silhouetted sea stacks visible on
all sides.
Pool
Stykkishólmur’s pool benefits
from a local geothermal water
South: Selfoss Pool
supply that’s higher in some Quite possibly the largest swim-
minerals than either the Blue ming pool in south Iceland, the
Lagoon or the Mývatn Nature Selfoss pool is the perfect spot
Baths, as signs at the pool proud-
ly proclaim. The silky water feels
East: Neskaupstaður for a family outing. It’s both in-
door and outdoor, with kid pools,
soft on the skin, and when you’re Pool a slide, and grownup hangout
done luxuriating in the hot pots
there’s also a "warm" hot tub,
West: Reykjanes, Iceland’s easternmost munici-
pal pool is far from the beaten
tubs. It went through an exten-
sive renovation in 2015, making
where you can easily drift off Ísafjarðardjúp track of Route One, lying on it quite state-of-the-art.
without overheating. This one is technically the old- the other side of a mountain
Local Delights: ADVERTISEMENTS
➐
➎
➊
➋ ➏ ➌
➍
moments on ordinary days, but
Fjöruborðið takes no responsibil-
ity for consequences or stirring ➍ Glacier Walks ➏ Next Door
adventures that could result from
ingesting it. This is the most On Sólheimajökull To Nature
famous langoustine soup in the wwwmountainguides.is wwwstracta.is
Republic of Iceland, prepared by Icelandic Mountain Guides´ Glacier The Stracta Hotel in Hella is
handsome cooks who step naked Walks are a safe but fun activity strategically located in the South
out of the ocean at Stokkseyri with and a great way to experience the of Iceland, just about an hour‘s
their catch. wonders of the Icelandic Nature. drive from Reykjavik and in close
Glacier Walks are easy and accessi- proximity to some of Iceland´s most
ble for both individuals and groups famous and most frequently visited
➊ Welcome to and have become one of the most

popular tourism activity in Iceland.
natural phenomena. Nature in all
its splendour surrounds the hotel
Hestheimar Icelandic Mountain Guides´ Glacier and the area is etched in history
www.hestheimar.is Walks are operated every day, all and culture too. The hotel garden is
Hestheimar is an established year on Sólheimajökull glacier and the perfect spot to view the North-
company in the tourist industry in Skaftafell national park from the ern Lights and the lobby desk offers
that focuses mainly on horse riding 1st of February 2013. a free wake up call when the aurora
tours. In Hestheimar you will also Make Sure it´s Mountain Guides. appears.
find horse trading (buying and
selling), horse breeding, horse rent-
al, accommodation, catering and
much more. Welcome!
➌ Local Guide
Of Vatnajökull
www.localguide.is
We at Local Guide are a small fami-
ly run company that pride ourselves
in offering glacier tours suitable for
all abilities and levels of enthusi-
asm, whether you are experiencing
the glaciers for the first time, or
if you are a more adventurous
explorer with some experience on
➎ Give Visit A Chance ➐ The Taste Of The
glaciers we hope you will enjoy a - It Might Surprise You Langoustine Capital
trip with us. www.listasafnarnesinga.is wwwhumarhofnin.is
➋ Fjöruborðið In the summer time we offer glacier

hikes on Vatnajökull while in the
Only 40 minutes drive from Reyk-
javik on the Golden Circle in the
Experience the unique taste of the
local Icelandic langoustine, lamb
Restaurant, Stokkseyri winter time we specialize in Ice geothermal town Hveragerði. and arctic char in the charming
www.fjorubordid.is Cave tours. Enjoy ambitious exhibitions of restaurant Humarhöfnin by the
At the seashore the giant langous- modern and contemporary art harbour in the small fishing town
tine makes appointments with in our four spacious galleries. A Höfn in Hornafjörður often referred
mermaids and landlubbers. The peaceful setting with wealth of art to as the langoustine capital of the
soup is magical. It is suitable for related material supplied, and a north.
numerous occasions and happy small Café.
BEST OF ICELAND 2017
South
Best Meal
16
Greenhouses and local ingredients
Best accommodation
Joint Winners:
Tryggvaskáli,
Selfoss & Slippurinn,
Héraðsskólinn
Héraðsskólinn, Laugarvatn
Vestmannaeyjar
Austurvegur 1, Selfoss / Strandvegur 76, Vestmannaeyjar
More of a hostel than a hotel, Héraðsskólinn in the lakeside town This was tough. But the panel agreed that there were two restau-
of Laugarvatn was a school building before being renovated into rants in the south that stood out. Slippurinn, a firm favourite in the
guest accommodation. It can be expensive to stay in Iceland, but Westman Islands (H5), is more established but closed in winter;
affordable and charming options like these make things more man- Tryggvaskáli, based in a Selfoss (F2) house built in 1890, was found-
ageable. It also has the added benefit of being located in the heart ed in just 2013. Both share a passion for local, seasonal ingredients,
of the Golden Circle, so it’s positioned amongst some of the natural and nobody will leave either disappointed. “You just never want to
gems of the south. Map square: G1 leave Tryggvaskáli,” said the panel.
Luxury Pick Newcomer Runner Up Budget Pick
Hótel Rangá, Hella The Lighthouse Inn, Garður Friðheimar, near Flúðir Sjómannastofan Vör, Grindavík
Suðurlandsvegur, Hella Norðurljósavegur 2, Garði It might surprise foreigners, but we Many tourists want to get in touch with
Many country hotels are relatively plain, Located in the tiny village Garður in actually grow tomatoes in Iceland, the local atmosphere, and few places
but Rangá boasts a 4-star rating. “They Suðurnes close to the Keflavík interna- and nobody takes better advantage are more local than Sjómannastofan
have grand rooms,” said the panel, “and tional airport, this hotel only opened up of that than Friðheimar. Eating in their (“The Fishermen’s Living Room”). What
they were about fifteen years ahead of for bookings in March, but has already greenhouse, you get to sit right by the you get there is simple homemade
their time.” As with all fancy hotels, it’s been raking in positive reviews. Built produce you’re consuming. The menu is food in a cosy setting. There is nothing
pricey, but the beautiful surroundings, in the style of a log cabin, it has a cosy simple—tomato soup and bread—but fancy or pretentious; this is a place that
fancy restaurant, affordable bistro bar and a sun terrace with view of the delicious, and they make some of the knows what it is and it does it well. C2
menu and next-level service are worth ocean. “It’s my newest favourite hotel,” best Bloody Marys in the country. H1
it. H2 remarked one panellist. B1
17
stractahotels.is
info@stractahotels.is
Near all the most popular

attractions in South Iceland
South
Best Bathing Spot Best Hike
18
Floating glaciers and steamy hikes
Must-See Spot
Hveragerði Reykjadalur
Swimming Pool Hveragerði
Laugaskarð, Hveragerði
Located just a 40-minute drive from
It might seem strange that a simple Reykjavík near Hveragerði, this is one
municipal pool would knock The Blue of the most popular hiking trails in
Lagoon into second place, but that’s Iceland. An hour-long hike (you’ll need
exactly what happened. Located in the crampons, hiking poles, and probably
small town of Hveragerði, about 30 min- a guide, in winter) brings you to the
utes out of Reykjavík, this is a perfect Reykjadalur valley, which has a warm
place to meet locals and enjoy the hot geothermal stream running down its
tubs. It has the added benefit of being centre. Steam billows up into the air,
sheltered from the wind, making it a making it a truly mystical spot, and the
perfect place for sunbathing. F2 hike has the added reward of a dip at
the end. F2
Runners Up
Runners Up
Vestmannaeyjar
“You are always wide-eyed when you sail into the harbour,” a panel-
ist remarked, and there was a unique agreement among the panel
about Vestmannaeyjar—"The Westman Islands," in English—being The Blue Lagoon Þórsmörk
top of the list. And understandably so—this is a truly unique place. Svartsengi, Grindavík Þórsmörk is a dramatic mountain ridge in
The volcanic archipelago is home to a single charming little town Iceland’s most famous bathing spot a wide, ashen valley between two glaciers.
never fails. It has a truly unique look,
and has the added allure of having had a volcanic eruption in 1973. Through it runs Krossá, a shifting glacier
great facilities, and has understandably river. You can get a bus there during
Part of the island chain is also the UNESCO heritage isle Surtsey, become one of the country’s most pop- winter, or travel by Super Jeep. Head to
which was formed in a 1963 eruption. Map square: H5 ular spots. The lagoon also boasts a spa the campsite to pick up a trail map, and
and a bar, making it the most luxurious seek advice about what’s safe in snowy
place to swim around in geothermal conditions. J3
Runner Up Runner Up
water. C2
Jökulsárlón Skaftafell The Secret Lagoon Eldfell, Vestmannaeyjar

It's all-but impossible to do justice to The Skaftafell nature reserve is one of Hvammsvegur, Flúðir This hulking volcano became one of
Jökulsárlón in words. It’s the famous Iceland’s gems. The hiking trails—slip- This naturally hot lagoon has been kept the most infamous in the world when
glacier lagoon where the Vatnajökull pery in winter, so wear good boots as close as possible to its natural state. it erupted suddenly and unexpectedly
glacier calves floating blue icebergs or crampons—lead up to the basalt It’s close to a small geyser, which blows in 1973, forcing an evacuation of the
into the water. You can take a boat trip columns of the Svartifoss waterfall, every five minutes, making it a very Westman island and engulfing part of
on the lagoon, sailing between the over a chilly trail to a viewpoint over scenic place. Experiencing the northern the town. The easy 40 minute hike to the
icebergs as they move around, and see Skaftafellsjökull glacier tongue, and lights while immersed in the hot water summit crosses ash plains and bright
the ancient glacier fragments drifting back down to earth via a steep forest is also a truly unique experience. H1 red, orange, white and maroon volcanic
out to sea. Q1 trail. O1 rocks, and leads to a dramatic view. H5
Day Tours - All the most exciting places in Iceland WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE!
19
BOOK NOW! ON WWW.RE.IS AT YOUR RECEPTION
BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.re.is
South
Best Sightseeing Tour Best Action Tour
20
Over volcano and under glacier
Best Road Trip
Glacier Caving Jet Boat Tour

Vatnajökull National Park Reykholt
Close to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, the Do you feel the Golden Circle trip lacks
ice caves of Vatnajökull are a sight to some excitement? Then you’re in luck—
behold, and even more so in the winter. kick it into the next gear by sailing
Once spring is over and the meltwater around like a madman on the Hvítá
begins to freeze, the caves assume river, just below Gullfoss. The scenery
new shapes, each in its own unique is amazing, and you can cling on and
way. When it has recently snowed, the try to enjoy it while you whoosh down
textured walls are breathtaking. Don't past birds, cliffs and water rapids. If you
forget your camera or warm clothes. want a next-level experience, then go
and be ready for a true adventure. D2 river jetting. H1
Runners Up Runners Up
Reykjanes Ring to
Þingvellir
This trip will take you a whole day, but you’ll see a range of stunning
scenery. Starting with a circle around the mostly barren Reykjanes Þórsmörk by Super Jeep Super Jeep on Eyjafjallajökull
peninsula, you’ll see geothermal areas, lakes, mountains and the Þórsmörk is one of Iceland’s most The panel notes that this is definitely
beautiful southern coastline, before looping inland to end up at the breathtaking and otherworldly natural a trip for those seeking an action
landscapes, located in a wide valley adventure. Driving on Eyjafjallajökull,
historic, evergreen Þingvellir national park. “This is a perfect trip
flanked by volcanoes and glaciers on the subglacial volcano that stopped
for taking pictures,” said the panel. “It’ll be a long road trip, but it’s both sides, and full of vast canyons, for- air travel across the world, is simply
worth it.” Map square: F1 ests, and wild glacial rivers. Few places brilliant. You can ride up the ice cap in
in Iceland will bring you closer to the a monsterous “Super Jeep,” or take a
vast, untamed nature the country has helicopter ride. I4
Runner Up Runner Up to offer. J3
Landsveit down Þjórsárdalurinn The Golden Circle The Highlands Quad Trips in Reykjanes
Drive towards Gjáin via Route 32 to see The Golden Circle is impossible to There are several different organised So close to Reykjavík, yet so differ-
Háifoss and Hjálparfoss, two of the ignore—few road trips allow you to see trips available into the barren and ent. Riding a quad bike over rocky
most beautiful waterfalls in the country. as many beautiful spots in a single day. beautiful Highlands in winter, so you Reykjanes is a real adventure. The trip
For those interested in history there’s It maybe a bit cliché and somewhat can choose whatever fits your sched- takes you over mountaintops and down
also Þjóðveldisbærinn—a Viking-era crowded, but who are we kidding? This ule. Amongst the most interesting spots gravel roads to black volcanic beaches.
farmstead that was reconstructed in place is unique and every single stop is the mountain range Kerlingarfjöll There is also an ancient Viking village on
1974. “It’s the perfect length for a good on your trip will be worth it. For extra (“Old Woman Mountains”), where you’ll the way. Prepare to get shaken-tourist
road trip,” said the panel. H1-I1 freedom, hire a car and drive the route find many hot springs and colourful syndrome. B-D1
yourself. F1 minerals formed by geothermal activity.
FISH & MORE
21
SALKA VALKA
Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’,
Fish & Vegan Soups, Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings
on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more
We are her e!
by Trip Advi sor

Cert ifica te of Exce llen ce
ava lka _fi shn mor e
ww w.in sta gra m.co m/s alk
val ka2 3
ww w.fa ceb ook .com lka
/sa
SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík
Love and Peace

in Laugarvatn
Ð S S K Ó L
A I N
R
É
HOSTEL
N
H
SINCE 2013
Find the spirit of friendship and love in Laugarvatn. You are always
SCHOOL SINCE
welcome www.heradsskolinn.is
L 1928
A
I
U N
G A R V A T
Best Bar Best Coffeehouse Best Shop
South
22
The not-North
Best Museum/Gallery
Réttin Bókakaffið Karl Úrsmiður

Úthlíð Austurvegur 22, Selfoss Austurvegur 11, Selfoss
The Réttin bar—also a restaurant— There are not many used bookshops This 50-year-old metalsmith is a family
draws its name from the sheep pen left in Iceland, but one of the better business that’s a must-see for every
that used to be located there. The ones is actually in the small town of bling traveller. It was founded by Karl
restaurant is only open during lunch- Selfoss. It is a cosy cafe where you can R. Guðmundsson, and is now run by
Eldheimar time, or by request to accommodate
groups, in the winter. One thing our
enjoy cakes and good coffee surround-
ed by shelves of books. The mood is
his son Bogi Karlsson and his family. In
this large and fashionable store you
Gerðisbraut 10, Vestmannaeyjar
panelists agree on is that the main at- easy-going, and it’s the perfect place to can shop for gold, gems and watches,
traction might be the owner: “Bjössi is a spend a lazy afternoon in surroundings while you get your cuckoo clock fixed.
This volcano museum focuses on the very funny man,” they noted. “He always that make you feel smart. P2 “He has the biggest jewellery shop in
1973 Westman Islands eruption that de- says ‘there’s nothing around here that I Iceland, and it’s in Selfoss,” observed a
stroyed 400 homes and businesses and don’t own.’” G0 panelist. F2
forced the entire population of 5,300
inhabitants to flee to the mainland.
At the time of the eruption, it seemed Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up
doubtful that the islanders would ever
return. The museum is newly built and
highly modern, and is open Wed-Sun,
13:00-17:00 from October till May. H5
Runners Up
Skjól, Kjóastöðum Gamli Vitinn, Garðskaga Geysir Store, Geysir

Skjól is a campsite and hostel with a You don’t get many chances to drink You probably didn’t go on the Golden
restaurant-bar that’s good for meeting coffee in a lighthouse by the unforgiv- Circle to shop, but the large Geysir
Rokksafnið Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum locals, and its location on the Golden ing North Atlantic, but that is exactly store in the Geysir visitor centre might
Hjallavegur 2, Keflavík Circle certainly doesn’t hurt. It’s a what you get in Gamli Vitinn (“The Old change that. It’s bigger than either of
Interested in the history of Icelandic fun spot, and as it says on the Skjól Lighthouse”). It also has the added their stores in downtown Reykjavík, and
music? Then you need to go to Rokksaf- website: "If you play three songs and benefit of hosting three permanent you can pick up something practical
nið (“The Rock Museum”) in Reykjanes- get applause, you’ll get a beer on the exhibitions: On whales, Northern Lights for your road trip, or something to wear
bær. It tells the story of the pioneers of house." H1 and the lighthouse itself. B1 out to dinner later. H0
Icelandic music and how they shaped
acts like Björk and Sigur Rós. “It caters
to a pretty specific demographic, but
it’s a great museum,” said the panel. C1
Lava Centre, Hvolsvöllur The Brothers Brewery, Westman Rósakaffi, Hveragerði Sveitabúðin Una, Hvolsvöllur
Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur Islands, Vesturvegur 5, Breiðumörk 3, Hveragerði This shop is the very definition of
Our panel picked this one as somewhat Vestmannaeyjar Built in a converted greenhouse, this “local.” Located in a Nissen hut military
of a wild card, as it just recently As well as having a friendly and cosy quirky café is perfect for a relaxing day barracks from WWII, it sells locally made
opened. It documents the history of bar at which to try some truly locally out or a snack stop. They serve break- products, from wool sweaters to food
volcanic eruptions in Iceland since brewed beer, the Brothers Brewery of- fast and offer both a soup and dish of from the region and handmade rune
1900, from the science to the human fers group or individual tours to share the day. Plus, they have ice cream. “It’s moleskins. They also take after-hours
experience. The museum is state of some insight into the ingredients they brand new, but it really is a good café,” group bookings, so you can sip wine
the art, with movies, artefacts and use, and the process of brewing itself. said the panel. F2 while you survey their wares. Not bad
graphics. H3 Afterwards, of course, you get to taste at all. H3
their wares. H5
23
Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

USEFUL INFO
24
Grapevine on the West and

Westfjords:
gpv.is/west
gpv.is/westfjords
Our articles, info and
guides for West Iceland
and the Westfjords
Tourist Information:
West Iceland Marketing
Office
www.west.is
Road Trip: Museum: Attraction: Into The info@westiceland.is
Borgarfjörður The Settlement Centre Glacier Tel: +354 462 3300
Directions: Route One North, then Info: landnam.is Info: www.intotheglacier.is Emergency services
circle Routes 50 & 518 Tel: +354 437 1600 Tel: +354 659-9710 Tel: 112 (national helpline)
Weather report
en.vedur.is
Away from the crowds pouring The Settlement Centre at The Langjökull Ice Tunnel is a Recorded info: +354 902 0600
around the coast is the quiet in- Brákarbraut 13-15 in Borgarnes manmade phenomenon that
land area of Húsafell. Turning is an informative and playfully allows you to step—yep—into
right just before the Borgarnes construed museum about the the glacier. While adults will be
bridge will take you along a history of people in Iceland. It amazed by the scenic journey
trail of curiosities, including looks at the history of the earliest up Langjökull, kids could easi-
the powerful Deildartunguh- settlers and the challenges they ly amuse themselves for hours
ver hot spring, the historical faced, through a series of diora- moseying around the chilly ice
town of Reykholt, the impres- mas and interactive displays. You tunnel, which comes complete
sive Hraunfossar waterfalls, can stand on a swaying longboat, with multiple chambers, infor-
the gourmet restaurant at Hó- see how humanity spread through mation on how glaciers form, an
tel Húsafell and, eventually, the Iceland, and hear tales of the Sa- icicle-laden natural crevice, and
foothills of the Langjökull gla- gas. Next door is a similar muse- a non-denominational chapel.
cier. Map square: E13 um that relates the bloody tale of H13
Egils Saga. E13
HOW TO GET THERE
By domestic airline:
Isafjörður (IFJ)
Domestic flights to and from
Reykjavík.
Main airline operator:
www.airiceland.is
Tel: +354 570 3000
Other airports are at Bíldudalur
and Gjögur, with flights to and
from Reykjavík serviced by
eagleair.is
By car:
Town: Museum: Area: The Westfjords Road conditions
www.road.is
Stykkishólmur The Library of Water Info: westfjords.is Tel: 1777
Info: visitstykkishólmur.is Tel: +354 865 4516 Tel: +354 450-8060 (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 /
Winter: 06:30-22:00)
The Westfjords lie entirely

From Stykkishólmur
Of all the small towns around Roni Horn’s Vatnasafn (“Li- outside of the Ring Road’s is-
Ferry to Flatey and
Iceland’s coastline, Styk- brary of Water”) resides in Styk- land-encompassing loop, mak- Brjánslækur
kishólmur—population 1,195— kishólmur’s old library building ing them one of the more remote Schedule & Info:
is perhaps the most charming. at Bókhlöðustígur 17. The exhib- corners of Iceland. The roads are www.seatours.is
The small harbour is enclosed it presents a number of floor-to- carved into an endless sequence
by a small and easily hikeable ceiling glass tubes, each con- of vast mountains, punctuated By bus:
cliff that offers views out into taining a sample of meltwater by tiny towns in narrow fjords, National Bus Network
the island-dotted fjord, and for and silt from one of Iceland’s often with greats pools and hot www.bus.is
such a small place there’s plenty glaciers. With the current rapid pots. At the northern edge lies Tel: +354 540 2700
to see and do, including a hand- climate change situation, these the wild nature reserve of Horn-
ful of museums, shops, and tubes may be all that’s left one strandir, only accessible by boat
restaurants. The perfect spot day. D11 or on foot. F9 and upwards
for a weekend getaway. D11
25
A B C D E F G H I J/

1
West &
BEST OF ICELAND: 2
The west of Iceland begins just outside Greater
Westfjords
Reykjavík’s northern city limits. From undulating fjords
and stretches of idyllic farmland, to the rolling fields of 3
Borgarfjörður, to the geothermally active Snæfellsnes
peninsula and the monolithic flat-topped mountains
of the wild Westfjords, it’s an area that contains all
the diversity of Iceland. Each of those regions is rich
with small towns, tucked-away pools, remote glaciers
and historic sites. It’s a rich part of Iceland, and we’ve 4
Mountains, lava fields, distilled some of the must-see places for you here.
glaciers and the HORNBJARG
wild Westfjords 5
A Ð A LV Í K
HORNSTRANDIR
HESTEYRI
JÖKULFIRÐIR
6
SNÆFELLSSTRÖND
Bolungarvík DRANGASKÖRÐ
Suðureyri Hnífsdalur
65
KROSSNES Siglufjörður
Ísafjörður Æðey N O R Ð U R FJ Ö R Ð U R 76
Flateyri 76
624 Súðavík 635
TRÉKYLLISVÍK
Ólafsfjör
S
61 61
D GJÖGUR 82 76
7
60
R Djúpavík 745 745 76
82
Þingeyri O Dal
J 643
SVA R FA ÐA R DA LU R
F Hofsós
SELÁRDALUR 60 T B A L A FJ Ö L L
Skagaströnd
Hj
KETILDALUR
HRAFNSEYRI 60
S
8
643 744
E
61 Sauðárkrókur
Bíldudalur
W
608
Hólmavík DRANGSNES
75 H Ó L A R Í H J A LTA D A L
Patreksfjörður Tálknafjörður 63 645 Blönduós

60 1
612
HNJÓTUR
FLÓKALUNDUR V A Ð A L FJ Ö L L
HVÍTSERKUR 1
B R E I ÐAV Í K
BJARKALUNDUR 61
L ÁT R A B J A R G 612
Brjánslækur 711
9
60 Varmahlíð
62
751
S K Á L E YJ A R 1
1
S V E F N E YJ A R Reykhólar 752 1
Flatey Hvammstangi
60
F756
35
1
Laugarbakki
10
59 Borðeyri F752
FE
LL
SS
TR 590
ÖN
D
F734
Búðardalur
11
Stykkishólmur 35
F578 A R N A R V AT N S H E I Ð I
576
54 LAUGAFE
Rif 54
Hellissandur Ólafsvík
55
Grundar- L J Ó S U FJ Ö L L
54 fjörður 56 60 1
574
54
F578 H V E R AV E L L I R 12
Arnarstapi
D J Ú PA LÓ N S S . Hellnar ELDBORG
LÓNDRANGAR SURTSHELLIR
54 35
KJÖLUR
HRAUNFOSSAR HÚSAFELL
1 Reykholt F347 ÞJÓRSÁR
13
518
54 Hvítárvatn
550
HJÖRSEY Borgarnes
52
KALDIDALUR
F508
14
F338
41 G LY M U R
52 35
1 F26
Akranes 41
GEYSIR
GULLFOSS JÖK
48 ÚTHLÍÐ
1 ÞINGVELLIR
37
Kjalarnes Þórisvatn F22
36 Laugavatn
365
GLJÚFRASTEINN Þingvallavatn
Reykjavík Mosfellsbær
36 35 Reykholt F26 F208
37 Þjórsá
Kópavogur N E S J AV E L L I R S K Á L H O LT Veiðivötn
Garður HEIÐMÖRK Laugarás 32 STÖNG
Hafnarfjörður Flúðir
Sandgerði 35 364
41 Sólheimar 31 ÞJÓRSÁRDALUR
F225
26
Distance from How to get there:
West
Car provider: gocarrental.is
Reykjavík: Route One north, turn right
Hotel: hotelglymur.is
25km before the tunnel
The Forgotten But in 1998, after two years

of con st r uc t ion, t he 5 .7k m
Hvalfjarðargöng tunnel opened,
that wends its way between the
fjord and the mountains.
We rattle across an old fash-
Fjord
making Hvalfjörður into a sel- ioned single-lane bridge, send-
dom travelled route that faded ing up clouds of spray, and pull
from everyday use. over in a windblown lay-by that
looks over the area. There are
Into the dark no other cars in sight, and just
Going off the beaten We set out to explore Hvalfjörður

a few scattered industrial build-
ings across the fjord. The water
track in Hvalfjörður on a stormy afternoon. On the

northward drive, the clouds
is dotted with nooks, islands
and peninsulas, and the vast
get heavier and heavier, until mountains that cradle the fjord
Words: John Rogers Photos: Art Bicnick they finally unleash a dramatic are dusted with snow, reveal-
downpour. Ours is the only car ing a textured surface, heavily
Twenty five kilometres north once a part of Iceland’s circular that turns right before the tun- scored as if clawed by the ele-
of Reykjavík lies the secluded, Route One, connecting Reyk- nel’s mouth, leaving the traffic ments.
undulating fjord of Hvalfjörður. javík to the north and, even- behind and peeling off onto a T he chu r n i ng sk y t u r n s
This 40km coastal route was tually, the rest of the country. slick and shining two-lane road quickly from a heav y, watery
REMOTE LUXURY
One of the most beautiful places in Iceland,
just two hours drive from Reykjavik.
A charming atmosphere, and a restaurant
known for its exquisite cuisine.
hotelbudir.is hotelbudir hotelbudir budir@budir.is +354 435 6700

other hulking industrial com- and rain sweep over the water to
“The vast mountains are dusted with
27
plex of a different kind. A large the gargantuan, rubble-strewn
snow, revealing a surface heavily white factory sits in front of a slopes that grow up to the sky on

huge, muddy cleft in the hillside, all sides of the fjord.
scored as if clawed by the elements.” peppered with piled pipes, frag- On the other side of the water
ments of metal, and a sole rust- lies another peninsula named
blue-grey to inscrutable black. dling by noisily and stoking my ing JCB. It’s site of a former rhy- Hvítanes, which holds the re-
D r i v i n g c a ref u l ly t h rou g h appetite to get back on the road. olite quarry, where the mineral mains of a W WII naval base,
sheets of rain, we decide to aim We pull up first at the locked was harvested to be processed including the rusted remains
for the welcoming lights of Ho- gates of an unmarked indus- into concrete. Now, the ma- of a railway jutting out precar-
tel Glymur for a hot meal and a trial facility that is, famously, chines are still, and the sheer, iously into the ocean. Informa-
warm cabin bed, and to resume one of Iceland’s sole remaining raw cliff of the quarried earth tion placards show drawings of
the adventure in the morning. whaling stations. It seems all bleeds with natural grey-green the fjord filled with warships.
but abandoned, with a couple of chemicals. The monumental It’s hard to imagine, standing
Guilty secret lights on, and a single column of
steam rising from a nondescript
foothills stand sombre over the
scene, criss-crossed with power
amongst the shivering trees and
occasional lonely farms, that
By dawn, the rain has turned cluster of buildings. I trudge lines, creating a sense of forlorn this place was once an import-
to hail. The sunrise comes late, around the perimeter, peer- beauty and desolation. ant hub of military activity.
with pink sunbeams strafing ing in through the mesh fence. We run out of time and leave
the sky horizontally, picking out
the bottoms of the clouds. I open
There are no signs of life inside,
but I catch a grim glance of a
Jutting precariously the fjord having passed by many
intriguing signposts, trails and
the cabin doors wide and tip- ramped concrete dock that van- The largest pen i n su la i n sideroads unexplored. There’s
toe across the icy deck, pulling ishes into the waves—it’s where Hvalfjörður is Þyrilsnes. After a no crash barrier along much
the top off the hot pot and slip- whales are landed before being couple of minutes trundling out of the precipitous trail, and
ping into the steaming water to processing into oil, blubber and towards the tall ridge at its end, the steely, rippling ocean feels
watch the sun creep upwards. meat. Further up the hillside, the potholed track is blocked— within touching distance. As we
In the distance, the lights of a there’s vantage point that looks first by a puddle so deep that’s coast back towards Route One,
small town twinkle, and the down upon two whaling vessels more like a ditch, and then by night is already falling once
mountains—visibly whiter than marked “Hvalur.” The whole a fence. There’s a stile that al- again. The mountains rear up
yesterday— cur ve gracef u l ly place carries a sad, desolate feel- lows us to continue on foot. At behind us, silhouetted by the
down to the fjord. A sole lorry ing, like the fjord’s guilty secret. the peak of the hill, the view un- dim dusk light as we set out back
appears in the distance, trun- Not far down the road is an- folds beautifully—bands of hail towards the city.
G
West
Must-See Spot Best Bathing Spot
T
28
Go West, life is peaceful there
Best Hike
Látrabjarg Cliffs Drangsnes or

Nr. Patreksfjörður, Westfjords Krossneslaug
Norðurfjörður, Árneshreppur
“You have to go there. Period,” one
panel member exclaimed when another
Warning: to get to Krossneslaug, first
brought up Látrabjarg. Considering
check if the tiny, winding, unpaved
it’s in the westernmost part of Iceland,
mountain road is snow-free, because
the road will be closed once it starts
it’s not serviced by snowploughs in
to snow heavily, but in good weather
the winter. If the conditions are safe,
these cliffs are the place to go to see
steel yourself, and drive the precipi-
razorbills, the northern gannet and
tous route past the remote hamlet of
many more. And even when there are
Djúpavík to this charming beachside
no birds to watch, it’s also home to a
pool and hot pot, where the road ends.
number of hiking trails and beautiful
If there’s snow on the road, don’t try
vistas. A9
it: the seaside hotpots of Drangsnes
are closer to civilisation, and a more
accessible option. F6
Runners Up
Runners Up
Arnarstapi to Hellnar
Snæfellsnes Peninsula
This leisurely Snæfellsnes coastal walk takes you past beautiful lava
fields and ocean outlooks. While it could take an hour, there are am-
ple places to lounge to the sound of the waves. Make extra sure to Snæfellsjökull, Snæfellsnes Pollurinn, Tálknafjörður
watch your footing—take hiking poles, good boots and keen eyes If it’s a clear day in Reykjavík, you can Pollurinn is a small free swimming hole
spot the majestic Snæfellsjökull glacier that looks out over the mountains of
in winter. Map square: B12 sparkling from your balcony. If it’s not a the Tálknafjörður fjord. “It’s a nice walk
clear day, you can drive three hours to from the campsite to the pool,” noted
Runner Up Easy Option see it up close and in person. While it’s the panel, “and Pollurinn is open 24/7,
considered an active volcano, it’s not so you can soak and watch the north-
slated to erupt anytime soon, so you ern lights.” B8
can relax.B12
Dynjandi Waterfall, Westfjords Helgafell, Stykkishólmur

One of the icons of Westfjords is the For centuries, the Holy Mountain of
Dynjandi waterfall. It has a loud and Helgafell was thought to be a gateway Grettislaug, near Sauðarkrókur
Rauðisandur Beach, Westfjords
dominating presence, falling from to the afterlife - a place so sacred that Grettislaug is supposedly where outlaw
Before you get too excited, we want to
a high cliff and down in a stream of if visited with respect could grant you viking Grettir bathed after he swam
heavily preface this entry by saying: don’t
smaller waterfalls, with the water up to three wishes. Even if you're not away from Drangey island. If you’re not
even think about driving the treacherous
rolling alongside the winding path that superstitious, once you reach the top a Saga nerd though, it’s also a cosy rock
mountain dirt track to Rauðisandur if
takes you to straight up to Dynjandi. It’s you’ll be welcomed by such a breath- bathing pool 25 minutes off the main
there’s even a speck of ice or snow on
one of the most impressive waterfalls taking view that you'll wish for your trip
the road. However, if the road is clear, this road in total secluded wilderness. Win Go
in Iceland, and for anyone who enjoys to never end. D11 win.. I8
remote and glorious red sand beach is a Cla
nature and powerful streams of water,
spot well worth detouring to. A9
this is a must. C8
Co
Te
Guided
Tours
29
Bringing you
unforgettable experiences
is our mission
At Gray Line Iceland we pride ourselves on staffing some of the best and
most experienced guides in the country. With their extensive knowledge and
itineraries packed with extraordinary adventures, you’ll find that at Gray Line
we pull out all the stops when it comes to bringing you enjoyable, comfort-
able and rewarding travel experiences. Explore the wonders of Iceland and
make lasting memories with the help of our local experts.
Check out our ambitious tour selection and book online at grayline.is.
AIRPORT EXPRESS
REYKJAVÍK KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT
OVER 20 DAILY
DEPARTURES
See our
Golden Circle Northern Lights schedule at
Classic I AH12 Mystery I AH33 airportexpress.is
Contact information:
Tel. +354 540 1313 | iceland@grayline.is | grayline.is
West
Best Tour Best Café
30
Go West, in the open air
Best Road Trip
Breiðafjörður Ferry Settlement Centre

Stykkishólmur Brákarbraut 13-15, Borgarnes
In the summer, many boat tours run out This fun museum about the long history
of Stykkishólmur including the famed of the Borgarfjörður area also boasts
‘Viking Sushi’ seafood trip and pleasure a wonderful café. Take a break from
cruises around the picturesque your road trip and opt for the all-you-
Breiðafjörður. In the winter season, the can-eat “Wellness buffet” for 2200 ISK,
options are more limited, but you can which includes hearty soup, homemade
still take a daily ferry over to a historic bread, and plentiful veggie and vegan
area of the Westfjords, taking in the options. E13
wildlife and the “countless” islands of
Breiðafjörður along the way. C9 and D11
Runners Up
Runners Up
Snæfellsnes
The Snæfellsnes peninsula is often referred to as “Iceland In Min- Kaffi Kyrrð
iature.” Why? Well, a one-day road trip grants you access to es- Skúlagata 13, Borgarnes
sentially every notorious Icelandic topography: geothermal areas, Snowmobiling on Langjökull Kaffi Kyrrð is both a coffeehouse and
a florist, so if you’re looking for some
lava fields, canyons, cliffs, black sand beaches, and, of course, the There’s no better way to experience the
vast badlands of the Langjökull glacier lilies and a latte, this is your spot. With
Snæfellsjökull glacier. Follow Route 54 to circle around the area, but kitschy décor and sanguine platitudes
than from the behind the handlebars
make sure to check out Stykkishólmur—it’s a gem of a coastal fish- of a snowmobile. Relax in a sea of white (“Dream, Hope, Love”), Borgarnes’s Kyrrð
ing village. Map squares: from A11 to D12 while you zoom across an endless vista is the best place to have a nosh while
of pure white snow. H13-I18 pretending you’re in your great aunt’s
living room. E13
Runner Up Runner Up

Djúpavík Hvalfjörður The Arctic Fox Center Skúrinn

Accessible only by an undulating This picturesque fjord was once part of Eyrardalur, Súðavík Þvervegur 2, Stykkishólmur
unpaved road that zooms around the Ring Road, but now stands all but Arctic foxes are the only native Skúrinn is pure comfort. The cosy
precipitous coastal cliffs and up steep forgotten due to the Hvalfjörður tunnel. terrestrial mammals of Iceland and Stykkishólmur haunt boasts nachos,
snowy mountains (closed if there's It’s close to Reykjavík if you’re pushed the best way to see their eerie white milkshakes and some of the best
snow, so check road.is before trying for time, and packed with interesting muzzle is to visit them at the Arctic Fox burgers in Iceland—the Senior Citizen is
it), this isolated Westfjords haven is spots: a creepy fenced-off whaling Centre. Whether you’re interested in a particular standout. With low prices, a
a world away from anything you’ve station, an abandoned mine, the Glymur their research or you’re travelling with cosy atmosphere, and friendly staff, it’s
experienced. Comprising one hotel, a waterfall hike, the remains of a British children, this will be the experience of light on the wallet while still yummy in
few houses, and an abandoned herring WWII base, and loads more besides. F14 a lifetime. D7 the tummy. D11
factory, a stop here is the cherry on top
of any Westfjords journey.F7
Harpa Concert Hall Main sponsor:
sinfonia.is
harpa.is
Harpa Concert Hall @icelandsymphony / #sinfo Main sponsor:
(+354) 528 50 50
sinfonia.is
harpa.is @icelandsymphony / #sinfo
Harpa Concert
(+354) Hall
528 50 50 Main sponsor:
sinfonia.is
harpa.is @icelandsymphony / #sinfo
(+354) 528 50 50
West
32
Go West, where the skies are blue
Best Accommodation Best Meal
Hotel Húsafell
Húsafell, Borgararbyggð
Tjöruhúsið
Hafnarstræti 1, Ísafjörður
The recently built Hotel Húsafell is pre-tty pre-tty fancy. The lobby Wolffish, cod, halibut, bacalao, redfish—these are just some of the
sits within a glass atrium that leads into a spacious restaurant with scrumptious seafood options you’ll find at Tjöruhúsið. Located in
an open fire, where an impressive tasting menu is offered to guests a large century-old red cabin, this family-owned mess hall serves
nightly, with wine pairings and flawless service. There’s also a nice skillets of freshly caught fish buffet-style along with a selection of
pool, free to guests. After a day on the road, it’s a welcome taste of sides, salads, and soups. It is, as one panel member raved, “the best
comfort and unexpected luxury deep in the Icelandic countryside. seafood in west Iceland, and quite possibly the whole country.” Be
Map square: G13 sure to book ahead. C6
Luxury Pick Budget Pick Runner Up Runner Up
Hotel Búðir Freezer Hostel Bjargarsteinn Mathús Narfeyrarstofa

Snæfellsbær Hafnargata 16, Rif Sólvellir 15, Grundarfjörður Aðalgata 3, Stykkishólmur
Hotel Búðir’s environs will take your Freezer Hostel has a cosy bar, hostel Located in the coastal haven of This cosy eatery in Stykkishólmur is a
breath away, from the historic church rooms, and a theatre space that holds Grundarfjörður, Bjargarsteinn Mathús stone’s throw from the harbour, and is
to the opportunity for sand dune walks, regular events, including live music is a small-town eatery that serves up famed for its fish dishes. The fish of the
coastal hikes and sea swimming. It has and plays. They recently staged an a mix of traditional foods (think dried day is amazingly fresh, coming straight
a vintage feel with taxidermied raptors, adaptation of Jules Verne’s classic shark skewers, fish soup, skyr) with from the harbour, and the creamy
and a telescope overlooking the bay. ‘Journey To Centre of the Earth’—a bold twists (think sweet potato muffins lobster soup will warm you right
The room are cosy, and the restaurant story that begins just up the road at and blueberry thyme sauces). If that’s not through. B11
is a destination in itself. C12 Snæfellsjökull. B11 enough, the food also comes with a stun-
ning view of the mountain Kirkjufell. C12
33
SandhoLt BakeRy
Make(s) a Meal of it...

now open eveRyday 07.00 - 21.00
Laugavegi 36 - 101 Reykjavik

34
A/ B C D E F G H I J
1
The north of Iceland holds some of the country’s most spectacular natural sites,
from the huge and powerful Dettifoss waterfall to Lake Mývatn, the Ásbyrgi canyon
2 and the vast volcanic desert of the Highlands (note: the Highlands are inaccessible
by regular car in the winter—it's Super Jeep or bus only). Fewer tourists come
North
here than to the south and west of Iceland, making it feel somewhat open and BEST OF ICELAND:
spacious; the “northern capital” of Akureyri is a focal point—a pretty and relatively
cosmopolitan town—and both Siglufjörður and the whale-watching hub of Húsavík
are well worth a visit. The northernmost point of Iceland is Grímsey Island, and you
3 can hop there on a plane there to set foot in the Arctic Circle.
Lakes, lava, hikes,

4
herring and whales
Grímsey 870
5
ARG
Raufarhöfn
M E L R A K K A S L É T TA
Kópasker 85
6 TJ Ö R N E S
Þórshöfn
DRANGASKÖRÐ
KROSSNES Siglufjörður
N O R Ð U R FJ Ö R Ð U R 76 85
76
TRÉKYLLISVÍK Húsavík 85
Ólafsfjörður
7
F839
ÁSBYRGI
GJÖGUR 82 76 864
82 Hrísey GJÁSTYKKI JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR
Djúpavík 745 745 76
Dalvík Grenivík F899
VESTURDALUR
643 83
SVA R FA ÐA R DA LU R 85
Hofsós 862
B A L A FJ Ö L L Hjalteyri
Skagaströnd 835 DETTIFOSS
643
8 744
1 Jökulsá á Fjöllum V
61 Sauðárkrókur
608
Hólmavík DRANGSNES
75 H Ó L A R Í H J A LTA D A L Laugar 862 864
Svalbarðseyri F88 G R Í M S S TA Ð I R
645 Blönduós Akureyri GOÐAFOSS
1 1 85
HVÍTSERKUR 1
A L FJ Ö L L HRAFNAGIL 1 Mývatn
61
9 711 848
60 Varmahlíð Skjálfandafljót
1
751 821
1
1
752 1
F26
Hvammstangi
60
10
A L D E YJ A R F O S S MÖÐRUDALUR
35 F756 SAURBÆR 901 1

Laugarbakki Jökulsá á Fjöllum
1
F88
907
HERÐUBREIÐARLINDIR
59 Borðeyri F752
923
11
590
F821
F734
Búðardalur 35
F578 F26
A R N A R V AT N S H E I Ð I
F894 F910
VÍTI 923
Öskjuvatn
54 LAUGAFELL F881 F910 ASKJA
F910
F752 SPRENGISANDUR
12
F903
60 1 F26
F902
F578 H V E R AV E L L I R
F910
SURTSHELLIR NÝIDALUR F909

35
K V E R K FJ Ö L L
KJÖLUR
13
HRAUNFOSSAR HÚSAFELL
1 518
Reykholt F347 ÞJÓRSÁRVER
VONARSKARÐ
F26
4 Hvítárvatn
550
es
52
KALDIDALUR
14
F508
F338
41 G LY M U R GRÍMSVÖTN
52 35
1 F26
41
GULLFOSS JÖKULHEIMAR
1
GEYSIR
48 ÚTHLÍÐ
1 ÞINGVELLIR
37 F985
Höfn í
alarnes Þórisvatn F229
36 Laugavatn
365
GLJÚFRASTEINN
Mosfellsbær
Þingvallavatn F26 F208
SUÐURSVEIT
35 Reykholt
36 37 Þjórsá
Langisjór 1
r N E S J AV E L L I R S K Á L H O LT Veiðivötn
HEIÐMÖRK Laugarás 32 STÖNG
USEFUL INFO
35
Grapevine on the North:

gpv.is/north
guides for North Iceland
Visit North Iceland
Hafnarstræti 91, 600 Akureyri
northiceland.is
info@northiceland.is
Tel: +354 462 3300
Town: Akureyri Island: Grímsey Road Trip: Eyjafjörður & Emergency services
Info: akureyri.is Info: akureyri.is/grimsey-en Skagafjörður Tel: 112 (national helpline)
Tel: +354 460-1000 Tel: +354 460-1000 Directions: Routes 82 & 76 Weather report
en.vedur.is
Iceland’s “second city” is small Grímsey—Iceland’s northern- Recorded info: +354 902 0600
but perfectly formed, and bus- most populated point—is a 5.3 The most populated area in the
tling with culture. Amuse your- square kilometre island that’s north is Eyjafjörður, one of the
self in the daytime meandering home to just 86 people. You can longest fjord in Iceland at 60 HOW TO GET THERE
between the stellar municipal get there by plane or ferry to km. The west side has a pictur-
fn By domestic airline:
swimming pool, the shops, gal- see the beautifully preserved esque drive from Akureyri to a
Akureyri Airport (AEY)
leries
LANGANES
and cafés of the town cen- lighthouse, the spot where the series of small villages such as Domestic flights to and from
tre, and the busy little harbour; Arctic Circle begins, and the Hjalteyri—where you’ll find a Reykjavík, Grímsey, Þórshöfn,
by night, there’s a great music village of Sandvík, which has a large factory that’s been repur- Vopnafjörður. International
venue called Græni Hatturinn, a craft store, a café, and a small posed as an arts space called connections via Keflavík Airport.
Þórshöfn 85
concert hall, a selection of good fishing harbour. It’s well worth Verksmiðjan—to Dalvík and International flight to Nerlerit
Inaat, Greenland.
restaurants, and a labyrinthine taking the time to hike around Ólafsfjörður. After passing Si-
Eyjafjarðarbraut vestri, 600
bar called Götubarinn, where the coastline to see the seabirds, glufjörður, you can loop around Akureyri
you might end up singing around vast cliffs and crashing waves— into the neighbouring fjord of Main airline operator:
Bakkafjörður
the piano with the locals. Grímsey really does feel like the Skagafjörður and visit Hofsós www.airiceland.is
Map square: G9 edge of the world. G5 swimming pool before heading Other airlines:
back to Akureyri. D7-10 and G6-9 norlandair.is
Tel: +354 424 4000
Húsavík Airport (HZK)

Vopnafjörður Domestic flights to and from
917
Reykjavík.
AÐIR 919 Main airline operator:
www.eagleair.is
85
Tel: +354 464 1300
Bakkagerði
By car:
917
94 Road conditions
www.road.is
Tel: 1777
1
MÖÐRUDALUR (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 /
901 1
Activity:Egilsstaðir
Whale 93 Lake: Mývatn
Seyðisfjörður
Canyon: Ásbyrgi
Winter: 06:30-22:00)
907 Watching in Húsavík From Akureyri

Lagarfljót NeskaupsstaðurInfo: visitmyvatn.is Info: gpv.is/asbyrgi
INDIR 1 92
Ferries to Grímsey
J Info:
Ö K U L Svisithusavik.com 953 Tel: +354 464-4390 Information Centre: +354 470-7100
923 Á Á BRÚ
931
and Hrísey
Eskifjörður Schedule & Info:
H A L L O R M S S TA Ð U R 92
Húsavík is a northern town Reyðarfjörður Lake Mývatn is a famously beau- visitakureyri.is/en/transport/
923
that’s famous for being the best
SKRIÐUKLAUSTUR
tiful lake deep in the northern The monumental Ásbyrgi can- ferries
place in Iceland to spot whales. 96
Iceland countryside. There are yon is an unparalleled natural
931
F910 F910
934
Fáskrúðsfjörður By bus:
There are a total 23 whale spe- a955number of picturesque view- wonder. Shaped like a horse-
cies that you might see in the National Bus Network
points and hikes around the
Stöðvarfjörður
shoe, its vast vertical cliffs sur- www.bus.is
waters surrounding Iceland, shoreline, including the vast,
Breiðdalsvík round an area crisscrossed with
939
Tel: +354 540 2700
but the most common sightings 1
vividly black lava maze of Dim- walking trails that take you
are blue whales, humpbacks 1
F909
muborgir, various volcanic through forests, past a lake, and
and minke whales. There’s a lit- stacks, and the steaming mud up into the various chasms in
tle marina village with various Djúpivogur
pots and fumaroles of the Hver- the walls. There’s an informa-
tours operating out of Húsavík,
ir geothermal area. The town of tion centre and café at the en-
PA P E Y
from a chilled cruise to a speed-

Reykjahlíð has an information trance, and a campsite for those
boatL Ó ride,
N S Ö R Æ F Idetermined to find
centre on the area, and one of who wants to spend a few days
the bigger specimens. 1 H7 the nicest spas in Iceland—the getting lost in this wild, dream-
H VA L N E S Mývatn Nature Baths—is also like locale. I7
nearby. I9
1
VESTRAHORN
F985
Höfn í Hornafirði
SUÐURSVEIT
36
North
Distance from
How to drive there: Car provider: gocarrental.is
Reykjavík:
Route One North, then Route 74 Hotel: hotelblanda.is
304km
Land’s End swiftly into a deep sleep.
Lonely ram
of road that skirts the edge of
the island-dotted Húnafjörður
to Skagaströnd. This discreet
Exploring the villages,

little town, with a population of
In the morning, Blönduós is held 498, has been a trading centre
crumbling basalt cliffs

under a shroud of grey, spitting since the 15th Century, and looks
clouds. The shoreline lies just across the fjord to the distant
and remote viewpoints of

a few metres from the back of snowy peaks of the Westfjords.
the hotel, and the tide crashes It has some life to it: people wan-
Skagafjörður
against the rocky seawall, send- der the streets going about their
ing jets of spray high into the air. day, and the streets are scattered
We drive through the town’s with sculptures, murals and
few residential streets, peering photographs—all evidence of
Words & Photos John Rogers
out at nondescript industrial the artists who stay at the NES
units, factories, faceless munic- art residency.
We’re just north of Bifröst when Blönduós appear through the ipal buildings, a fenced-in pool, Most of the town’s attrac-
the night falls hard. After a blus- murk. The town feels deserted, and a supermarket. Route One tions, however, are closed down
tery three hour road trip up the and we cruise past the floodlit slices straight through Blön- for the off season. The cosy-look-
western coast of Iceland, the forecourt at an unmanned gas duós, bridging the River Blanda ing Bjarmanes café doesn’t open
richly coloured autumn land- station, a closed down factory, on its way. A picturesque wood- for another hour, and a muse-
scape is plunged into an eerie, and some shuttered houses. ed island named Hrútey sits in um dedicated to Þórdís, a 10th
enveloping darkness. Without Hotel Blanda is the last build- the estuary, and a lonely, colour- Century fortune teller who was
the comfort of highway lamps, ing before the shoreline of fully painted wooden ram stares the first named inhabitant of
distant glowing windows, on- Húnafjörður, and violent, crash- at us from the island as we leave Skagaströnd, is locked. We peer
coming traffic, or even a smudge ing waves are audible some- the town behind. in through the windows, and
of light on the horizon, it feels where nearby. Even with the instead take a walk over some
like driving into inky nothing-
ness.
hotel room window open just a
crack, the wild winds and the
Art and prophets mossy seaside hillocks topped
with a tall cairn. The view across
After an hour, the lights of bassy roar of the ocean lull me Route 74 is a 20 kilometre strip to the Westfjords is spectacular,
and as I look down over Skagas-
37
trönd, I resolve to return during
summer.

Off the map
The road northward is a dusty
gravel track that traces around
the top of the Skagi peninsu-
la. The first stop is the Kálf-
shamarsvita lighthouse, stand-
ing tall and proud amongst
some stunning basalt cliffs and
formations that resemble a hex-
agonally tiled floor. A hundred
years ago, there was a busy fish-
ing village here, but all that re-
mains today are the signposted
ruins of several stone houses.
As we trundle around the tip
of the peninsula, the occasional
farms give way to wide tracts of
rocky, untouched land. Distant
mountains are reflected in still
lakes as the route winds its way
around the headland, crossing
barren plains and coastal out-
crops with no sign of human in-
terference but the road ahead.
On the eastern side of the
peninsula lie the high cliffs of
Ketubjörg, where a small, mean-
dering stream plunges over the
edge, tumbling down 100 me-
tres onto the black beach below.
The land is visibly deteriorating
around the cliffside, with large
cracks appearing in the ground.
A wooden stile leans precari-
ously towards the precipice, the
onward path swept away by an
earlier landslide. I stand shiver-
ing in the fierce wind, looking
out at the twin islands of Drang-
ey and Málmey, imagining what
life was like in this unforgiving
place in centuries past.
End of the road

The final stop is Grettislaug, a
geothermal bathing spot where
it’s fabled that Grettir of Grettis
Saga once had a soak. It lies at
the end of Reykjaströnd, a long,
narrow shelf of land between
the tall, jagged mountains of the
peninsula and the rippling sea
of Skagafjörður. We bounce up
“A small, meandering stream plunges hot spring. The water is silky
and clear, and we linger for an
the unpaved road, pausing oc-
casionally for herds of horses to
over the edge of the cliff, tumbling hour with the pool to ourselves,
watching the chilly evening set
cross in front of us.
Grettislaug is where the road
down 100 metres onto the rocky in. The sky fades into a gradi-
ent of fiery orange, vivid pink
terminates. The attendant is a
white-bearded Akranes resident
beach below.” and bruised purple. We leave
the pool reluctantly, drying off
who’s been living here all sum- hastily as the temperature drops
mer in a wooden cabin that also autumn he welcomes fifty or so Jarlslaug. They’re man-made, and the light fades, before set-
serves as a reception area and visitors to Grettislaug each day. but natural in look and feel, ting out to race the sunset back
café. He pours us some hot cof- There are two small pools built into the ground from large to Blönduós.
fee, relating that even during the on the shore, Grettislaug and stones and filled from a nearby
North
Best Meal Must-See Spot
38
Chilling by the Arctic Circle
Best Accommodation
Rub23, Akureyri Hrísey
Hafnargata 6, Hauganes Hrísey
Akureyri’s most fancy eatery is Rub23: Our panel spoke of this this island in
a stylish, intimate restaurant on the the middle of Eyjafjörður with an almost
town’s main street with a wide variety spiritual reverence. (Energy fields were
of different plates on offer. Their signa- invoked.) The half-hour ferry ride to the
ture dishes are the “rubs” of the title: island takes you across the Iceland’s
select which meat or fish you’d like, and longest fjord, with the mountains and
then the spice blend you’d prefer, for a sky reflected in the glassy waters. On
customised main course done to your the island are a few leisurely walks,
liking. There’s a decent wine list, too. It’s many birds, and views to offer you, as
a pricey treat—but worth it. G9 our panel said, “a very introspective
moment.” F7
Brekkugata 35
Brekkugata 35, Akureyri
Siglunes, Siglufjörður Ásbyrgi
Brekkugata 35 is a homely guesthouse, and our panel spoke of it Lækjargata 10, Siglufjörður Even better than it looks on Google
warmly, particularly admiring its personal touch. “It’s a homestay The owner of Siglufjörður’s schmancy Image, this horseshoe canyon at the
Siglunes Guesthouse recruited the Mo- northern end of Vatnajökull National
run by artists in their lovely creative home in a historic house and
roccan-born chef Jaouad Hbib to run Park was carved by glacial flooding
former art gallery, with a delicious homemade breakfast,” they the restaurant, and “it’s really adding several millennia ago. Turn off Route 85
said. The owners “put their heart into it,” continued the panel, “and something to the community,” as one and walk to the tip of Eyjan, the “island”
they know the town inside out.” Map square: G9 our panelists admiringly reflected. It’s of rock that was once the canyon’s
a pretty space with a friendly staff, and northern bank, to take in the vast
the menu, which changes daily, puts forested gorge; or drive down to the
Luxury Pick Budget Pick
a Mediterranean twist on Icelandic pond tucked just beneath the sheer,
ingredients. E6 100-metre cliffs of the far side. I7
Newcomer
PIPAR\TBWA · SÍA
Sigló Hótel Akureyri Backpackers

Snorragata 3, Siglufjörður Hafnarstræti 98, Akureyri Cafe Berlín, Dettifoss
This rustic-swanky gem is a favorite Our panel had nothing but praise for Skipagata 4, Akureyri Amid the monochrome of the north-
of Icelanders on a weekend ski or golf the convenience and stellar staff and There's no better place than Café Berlin eastern Ring Road, Europe’s most
getaway. Kick back in the cosy lounge, management of Akureyri Backpackers. for a Sunday brunch. From eggs and powerful waterfall is an imposing sight.
with modernist central fireplace and It has clean, smart, minimal rooms, bacon to more Instagrammable options It’s difficult to reach in winter—only the
harbour views, or relax in the private dorms for those on a budget, and like poached eggs and avocado toast, road approaching from the southwest
outdoor hot pot (cleansing plunge into a choice of cooking on the kitchen this place has everything your heart is paved—so check the road conditions
the fjord optional). E6 or eating in the cosy café-bar. A star (and stomach) might desire. You can in advance. If you’re able to get there,
amongst hostels. G9 add warm waffles for a small addition be aware that it’s a slippery walk to the
fee. Enjoy people-watching with a hot waterfalls, and take no risks. J8
coffee. You'll feel right at home. G9
39
better burgers
by the road
GET
NT
DISCOU
PIPAR\TBWA · SÍA
St. Louis bacon burger with fries
Located on selected Olís service stations
ÁLFHEIMAR AKRANES SIGLUFJÖRÐUR NESKAUPSTAÐUR

GULLINBRÚ BORGARNES ÓLAFSFJÖRÐUR HELLA
NORÐLINGAHOLT STYKKISHÓLMUR DALVÍK SELFOSS
MOSFELLSBÆR SKAGASTRÖND REYÐARFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK
Grill66.is
North
Best Hike Best Road Trip
40
Where the wildlings are
Best Bathing Spot

Dimmuborgir Mývatn
Nr. Mývatn Mývatn
This vast natural maze, situated close No surprise here: our panel loves the
to Lake Mývatn, was formed when a varied and accessible landscape of
large lava cavern collapsed, leaving the Mývatn region, from the spec-
jagged rock formations and black tacular Goðafoss, to the fascinating
pillars grasping upwards dramatically. Dimmuborgir lava field to the ‘Game of
There are several clearly marked paths, Thrones’-approved “secret” hot spring
and the entrance is just a short walk cave Grjótagjá. But they also put in a
from the car park, making it the perfect word for the Icelandic Folk and Outsider
place for a brisk winter hike, whether Art Museum, on the drive over from
you want to be out for an hour or a Akureyri. “I love how they present their
whole day. I9 collection together with progressive
modern art without discrimination,”
enthused one panelist. I9
Runner Up Runner Up
Hofsós Pool
Suðurbraut, Hofsós
Vatnsdalur The Arctic Coastal Route
This truly epic drive was a passionate
Off the Ring Road in the low-lying
farmland area between Hrútafjörður favourite of our panelists. “It’s just you
and Blönduós is a river valley: a trail and the North Atlantic,” they said, of the
The pool at Hofsós is situated just at the edge of a cliff at the edge roads that take the long way through
leads you upstream, following the
of town; there’s no fence, and the views extend out to the island Vatnsdalsá inland, and you’ll be able North Iceland, past the fjords, cliffs and
Drangey and beyond, all the way to the cliffs on the far shores of to see waterfall after waterfall as you desolate fishing villages the Ring Road
Skagafjörður. An infinity pool, North Iceland style. “I’d drive hours to stroll along the canyon towards the cuts out of the circuit east of Húsavík.
“It’s the loneliest place I’ve ever been,”
get there, especially at sunrise or sunset,” one of our panelists said; Highlands. B9-10
said one awestruck panelist. Whatever
the others murmured approvingly. Map square: D8 your driving mix is, blast it. B9-H7
Runner Up Runner Up Easy Option Runner Up
Sundlaug Akureyrar Mývatn Nature Baths Héðinsfjörður, Siglufjörður Hjalteyri & Eyjafjörður
Starting from Akureyri, stop off at the
Þingvallastræti 21, Akureyri Jarðbaðshólar, Mývatn Before the tunnels were built, the only
cavernous exhibition space in the old
With evident pride, our panel declared The Mývatn Nature Baths is a smaller, road into Siglufjörður was over the
Hjalteyri fish factory, swim in Eyjafjörður,
this the platonic ideal of an Icelandic quieter version of the Blue Lagoon, with mountains from Skagafjörður to the
then reset your body temperature in
municipal pool. “I drive by every day silky white water than seems to coat south and west—an ideal trail for more
the hot pot overlooking the water—if
with my kid,” said one panelist, “and your skin in geothermal goodness. It’s a experienced hikers. Easier routes wend
you’re lucky, one panelist averred, you
when he sees the top of the water slide bit more expensive than your average along the peaceful uninhabited fjord
might see some whales. Continue up
he asks me, ‘When does it open, when pool, but it’s the perfect final stop for a to the east of town, accessible through
the fjord to explore Dalvík, Ólafsfjörður
does it open?’ He gets so excited! And day spent exploring the north. I9 the tunnel or by boat. D12
and Siglufjörður and loop back past
so do I.” G9
Hofsós. F8-9
41
MY SKYR
MOMENT
HIGH PROTEIN – FAT FREE
BUY DIRECTLY
FROM
THE PEOPLE
WHO MAKE THEM
Skólavörðustígur 19 Borgartún 31
tel (+354) 552 1890 tel (+354) 552 1980
North
Best Museum or Gallery Best Bar
42
The reset button for the soul
Best Tour
The Herring Era Microbar & Bed
Museum Aðalgata 19, Sauðárkrókur
Snorragata 10, Siglufjörður
Maybe you’ve been to Microbar in
Reykjavík, and tried their house
Siglufjörður’s pride and joy, and un-
brew, from pioneering microbrewery
questionably the best herring museum
Gæðingur? In that case, consider a
in the world, Síldarminjasafnið is “an
pilgrimage to their sister watering
unexpected pleasure for tourists,” a
hole in Sauðárkrókur (the farm where
panelist said. Visitors are reliably over-
Gæðingur is brewed is just a little ways
whelmed by the bounty of artefacts
out of town). Here, their signature ales
and historical colour to be found at this
and lagers are always on tap, alongside
museum dedicated to Siglufjörður’s
quirkier varietals. And then, like the
glorious commercial fishing past. “It
name implies, you can sleep it off
was a really important thing for Sigló,”
upstairs. D8
another panelist added, “the starting
point for it becoming something other
than a ghost town. E6
Runner Up Runners Up
Askja By Super Jeep

“It’s like a reset button for your soul,” said one panelist, of the Spákonuhof Græni Hatturinn
remote Highlands caldera of Askja. “There’s nothing except the Oddagata 6, Skagaströnd Hafnarstræti 96, Akureyri
mountains encircling you, and the geothermal water before you. This “Museum of the Prophetess” tells We needed an Akureyri bar for this list,
Then there’s Drekagil (“Dragon Canyon”) and the new lava field at the story of Þórdís, one of the first set- and our panel stumped for “The Green
Holuhraun—it’s still warm, really rough, and huge. You feel how dev- tlers of Skagaströnd and a legendary Hat” because of its best-in-the-North
seer. “It’s got character, charm and live music lineup—you can catch many
astating nature can be.” Askja is only accessible during winter via a
history,” said one panelist, “as well as of Iceland’s top hip-hop acts there this
Super Jeep tour—don’t even think about going in a rental car! Map home-made knitted things, fortune- summer—and because it closes earlier
square: I12 telling, runes, Tarot cards, palm read- than the bar next door, the downtown
ings, and coffee.” C8 hub Götubarinn, “so there’s nobody
getting drunk and fighting.” G9
Runner Up Runner Up Newcomer
Gísli, Eiríkur, Helgi Kaffihús

Grundargata 1, Dalvík
Lofthellir Cave In Winter: Dog sledding Kaktus One panelist has fond memories of this
There are few lava caves in North One wonderful, natural, invigorating Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri charmingly folksy café/bar in Dalvík,
Iceland, noted our panel, but this one is way to get out into the winter land- This exhibition space in Akureyri hosts named for three bumbling brothers of
a spectacular mix of—yes!—fire and ice. scape is dog sledding. After petting intimate, ambitious art shows, concerts folk legend. “I was there late at a party
Accessible only by 4X4 and a short walk, the huskies in the kennel, you’ll be of all musical genres, theatrical perfor- one night and came back the next day
the cave is serviced by operators depart- pulled out onto the open snow for a run mances, readings and talks—always for for the soup and bread,” they recalled.
ing from Akureyri (G9) and Mývatn(H9); our across the open snow. The tours are, of free. You can also check out their comic “Everyone working there was so sweet,
panel recommended finishing off with a course, weather-permitting, so check book library. It’s run by an independent like, ‘Oh we’re so happy you came
soak in the Mývatn Nature Baths. I9 ahead to see if there’s enough snow. collective of young artists. G9 back!’” F7
43
SHARED & PRIVATE
TRANSFERS TO & FROM
KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT
PRICE ONEWAY: N O CHAN G E
2.990 O F B US
ISK
RE Q UIR ED
FREE WIFI ON EVERY BUS
www.AirportDirect.is Just log on and enjoy unlimited free
browsing.
497 8000 NO CHANGE OF BUS

REQUIRED
Or at your hotel reception Save up to 45 minutes on other transfers.

We do not stop at a bus terminal.
Our shuttles go straight to the airport.
BOOKING ASSISTANCE AVAILABLE 24/7 • 497 8000 • INFO@AIRPORTDIRECT.IS

44
A/ B C D E F G H I J
1
sey 870
2 Raufarhöfn
M E L R A K K A S L É T TA
East
BEST OF ICELAND:
LANGANES
3 Kópasker 85
Þórshöfn 85
TJ Ö R N E S
Vast fjords, wild nature

4 85
and remote towns in
Húsavík
Iceland’s Eastfjords
85 Bakkafjörður
F839
ÁSBYRGI
864
GJÁSTYKKI JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR
Grenivík
83
F899
5 VESTURDALUR
85
862
835 DETTIFOSS
1 Jökulsá á Fjöllum Vopnafjörður
6 917
Laugar 862 864

Svalbarðseyri F88 G R Í M S S TA Ð I R 919
yri GOÐAFOSS 1 85
HRAFNAGIL 1 Mývatn Bakkagerði
7 848 917
Skjálfandafljót
821
1 94
8 1
F26
A L D E YJ A R F O S S MÖÐRUDALUR
SAURBÆR 901 1 Seyðisfjörður

Jökulsá á Fjöllum Egilsstaðir 93
F88
907
Lagarfljót 1 92 Neskaupsstaður
9 HERÐUBREIÐARLINDIR
923 JÖKULSÁ Á BRÚ 953
931
21 Eskifjörður
H A L L O R M S S TA Ð U R 92
F26 Reyðarfjörður
F894 F910 SKRIÐUKLAUSTUR
VÍTI 923
F881
10 F910
Öskjuvatn
ASKJA F910
931 96
F910 934
Fáskrúðsfjörður
SPRENGISANDUR
955
F903
F26
F902 Stöðvarfjörður
Breiðdalsvík
11
939
1
F910
1
NÝIDALUR F909
K V E R K FJ Ö L L
Djúpivogur The Eastfjords
of Iceland are,
VONARSKARÐ 12 PA P E Y geographically,
one of the
oldest areas of
LÓNSÖRÆFI the country, and the furthest
from the capital. The moun-
1
tains slump diagonally into the
13 sea, creating a beautiful and
H VA L N E S
distinctive landscape. Many of
the winding fjords are cut off
GRÍMSVÖTN
from Route One, which runs inland, but for the
relatively few tourists who make it, they con-
1 tain interesting little towns and tucked-away
14 VESTRAHORN
villages with many interesting and eccentric
F985
Höfn í Hornafirði sights, stops, bars and shops.
SUÐURSVEIT
GÍGAR
JÖKULSÁRLÓN
R
U
D
S K A F TA F E L L
AN
F206 H VA N N A DA L S H N J Ú K U R
RS
USEFUL INFO
45
Grapevine on the East:

gpv.is/east
guides for East Iceland
East Iceland Regional
Information Centre
700 Egilsstaðir, Iceland
www.east.is
Town: Site: Festival: info@east.is
Seyðisfjörður The Arctic Henge List í Ljósi Tel: +354 471 2320
Info: visitseydisfjordur.is Raufarhöfn Seyðisfjörður, Emergency services

Tel: +354 472 1551 Info: listiljosi.com Tel: 112 (national helpline)
Weather report
Over the Fjarðarheiði mountain The far northeast is one of the On February 16 and 17, the dark- en.vedur.is
pass—which is often snowed most remote regions of Iceland. ness of the winter will be lit up Recorded info: +354 902 0600
in—lies the town of Seyðis- Carved off entirely by the Ring by List í Ljósi, a celebration of
fjörður. Picturesque to point Road, the last village on Route 85 light art that will illuminate
of feeling like a snow globe, is Raufarhöfn, a tiny, far-flung the culturally vibrant town
HOW TO GET THERE
it’s a miniature world that’s settlement with a population of of Seyðisfjörður. The festival By domestic airline:
well-known as one of Iceland’s 194 people. It’s the home of The promises a family friendly se- Egilsstaðir (EGS)
creative hubs. It’s home to the Arctic Henge, a large stone mon- lection of “curated artworks by Flights from Reykjavík.
Skaftafell gallery, as well as the ument made of stacked basalt, international and local artists, Sunnudalsvegur, Egilsstaðir
LungA School and Festival, and a and organised according to the ranging from installations, Main airline operator:
variety of historical sites, muse- ideas of local priest Kolbeinn Þor- projections and performances www.airiceland.is
ums, craft shops, outdoor sculp- leifsson. It’s a strangely magnet- to large-scale immersive expe- Tel: +354 424 4020
tures and restaurants. A gem of ic and improbable site in a truly riences.” There’s no admission
Smaller airports
east Iceland. Map square: I8 wild region of the country. D2 fee just go and be merry. I8 Þórshöfn (from Akureyri with Nor-
landair), Hornafjörður (from Reyk-
javík with Eagle Air), Vopnafjörður
(from Akureyri with Norlandair)
By ferry from Denmark or Faroes:

Smyril Line Ferry
Leaves from Seyðisfjörður
to the Faroe Islands & Denmark,
once a week
Schedule & Info:
www.smyrilline.com
By car:
Road conditions
www.road.is
Lake: Drive: Activity: Tel: 1777
Lagarfljót Reyðarfjörður Horse Riding (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 /
Winter: 06:30-22:00)
Info: east.is Directions: Various providers
Tel: +354 471 2320 Route 953 from Reyðarfjörður By bus:
around the East Fjords
National Bus Network
www.bus.is
Lagarfljót is a large, serpen- All road trips in winter should After a long road trip to the East, Tel: + 354 540 2700
tine lake with an undulating, be heavily prefixed by “what- abandoning the steering wheel
wooded shoreline. There are ever you do, check the weather for a while in favour of horse
various forests around the lake first!” But if you get a fine day, reins will be a relief. It will give
containing some of Iceland’s you could detour from the you a chance to see the nature
tallest trees, making for some ringroad to Reyðarfjörður. up close, riding through the
interesting hiking routes. It’s The scenery is beautiful, and
snowy countryside and breath-
also the alleged home of the you’ll pass the picturesque
ing in the crisp winter air. All
mythical Lagarfljót Wurm— little towns of Reyðarfjörður
kinds of horse riding trips are
Iceland’s version of the Loch and Eskifjörður along the way,
available along the fjords from
Ness Monster—which hit and at the end of the road lies
international headlines when Neskaupstaður, which has a Neskaupstaður to Djúpivogur,
it was allegedly caught on film. wonderful swimming pool to so take your pick.
The Hengifoss waterfall—one warm up in. H10
of Iceland’s tallest— and the
Hallormsstaður forest are also
nearby. G9
46
Distance from How to get there: Flight provider: airiceland.is

Reykjavík:
707km
Take Route One or fly to
Egilsstaðir, then take Route 92
Car provider: europcar.is
Hotel: hildibrand.com
East
Far East see the lights of Reyðarfjörður

spread out in the fjord below. By
Icelandic standards, it looks like
a hidden metropolis. We cruise
Neskaupstaður. The tourist
season has come to a close, and
there’s only one other guest in
the hotel. We’re alone in the
A flying visit to Neskaupstaður, through the town slowly past

seaside industrial buildings, a
restaurant, where the dual re-
ceptionist and waiter serves up
Iceland’s easternmost town large harbour area, and ranks

of apartment buildings, their
hot seafood soup and local lamb
shanks, before showing us into
lights glimpsed through heavy a large, luxurious apartment
Words John Rogers Photos Art Bicnick
mist. Twenty minutes of snowy for the night. I look out the win-
mountain road later comes Es- dow at the vague mountainous
Seen from Iceland’s Ring Road, the sun has left the sky. The kifjörður. It looks like a tiny vil- shapes across the fjord, and go
t he Ea stf jords seem l i ke a glow of Egilsstaðir soon fades lage on the map, but it actually to sleep eager to see the morn-
sparsely occupied stretch of un- into the distance, plunging us coats the fjord’s far coastline ing view.
dulating fjords and mountain- into darkness on the unlit road. with glittering lights.
ous wilderness, punctuated by
small towns, farms and patch-
Soon, my eyes adjust, and the
bright, a lmost-f u l l moon—
After driving a treacherous
mountain road and passing
The good life
es of reforested woodland. But closer to the earth than any through the gated single-lane It’s snowing heavily come day-
Route One turns inland one time this millennium—casts tunnel of Oddskarðsgöng, we brea k , a nd t he h ig h pea k s
fjord before Reyðarfjörður— a ghostly glow over the scenery arrive at Hotel Hildibrand in appea r on ly i nter m it tent ly
the long, tendril-like inlet that around us, hinting at the scale
leads to the coastal towns of of the mountains that flank the
Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður
a nd , a c ro s s t he O dd sk a rð
Route 92. To the west, the bright
moonlight glistens on the high,
“The almost-full moon casts a ghostly
mou nt a i n ra n ge, Ic ela nd’s
easternmost town of Neskaup-
snowy slopes and peaks. To the
east, it haloes the jagged moun-
glow over the scenery around us,
staður.
We set out for Neskaup-
taintops.
It comes as a surprise to
hinting at the scale of the mountains.”
staður at 7pm, an hour after round a long bend and suddenly
through the thick flurries. I go
47
for a morning dip in the local
pool, which has perfect out-

door hot pots, a slide for kids,
and a view out across the snowy
fjord. A wall of steam rises into
the dark morning sky as locals
sit soaking and chatting, pre-
paring for their day. Life in Ne-
skaupstaður seems calm and
gently paced.
Back at the Hildibrand, the
hotel’s owner—the locally born
and raised Guðröður Hákonar-
son—offers to show us around
town. He moves aside a tray of
fresh eggs—”we have chickens
to supply the hotel,” he smiles—
and we climb into his jeep to
cr uise past the tow n’s har-
bour, hospital, a snowed-in golf
course and a local history muse-
um that’s closed for the winter.
"1200 people live here,” says
Guðröður. “It's a big city, for
Iceland. We have the biggest
fish factory in the country, and
24% of all Iceland’s alumini-
um and fish exports leave from his time. He hopes that, in the good for every thing here. It is great for hiking. Kids can go
Esk i f jörðu r, Reyða rf jörðu r, long term, tourism will create helps mobility. People will be to the harbour, pull out a fish,
Fáskrúðsfjörður and Neskaup- jobs to keep the town’s young able to move around and work. and walk home safely. If there's
staður." people from migrating to Reyk- The hospital employs 50 peo- any problem, the parents just
Guðröður is a farmer by javík, and further afield. ple, and we have the aluminium talk to each other. I love this
trade—his lamb and potatoes "I love the tunnel,” he en- smelter, so there are jobs here. simple small-town life."
are on the menu in the Hildi- thuses, as we climb out of the Many of our young people go
brand—but as we bounce along
the track to the mouth of a new,
car and tread around the tun-
nel’s dripping black mouth.
to Reykjavík to school, and we
want them to come back with
Whiteout
almost-complete tunnel to Es- “It’s good for the hospital, the what they have learned.” Back in town, the snowstorm is
kifjörður, he explains that the fishing industry, the hotel, the “It's a good life here,” finish- worsening. We check the weath-
hotel increasingly monopolises Eistnaflug music festival—it's es Guðröður. “The countryside er report, and notice an immi-
nent dip in the snowfall and
wind speed. It’s the only chance
we’ll have to head back inland
and beat the coming blizzard.
On the road, it quickly be-
comes apparent quick ly that
we’ll see even less of the fjord
on our return journey than we
did the night before. The snow-
storm is heavier than antici-
pated, and we crawl along the
road at 20kmph with the hazard
lights on, often losing sight of
another car just ahead and us-
ing the yellow roadside posts
as a guide. Visibility is close to
zero. It’s a harrowing drive, and
I’m relieved when the weather
clears around Egilsstaðir. The
road is closed not long after.
A s we t a ke of f i nto t he
storm after a short and teasing
glimpse of life in the Eastfjords,
I’m left with a heightened rather
than sated curiosity about the
twists and turns of this remote
and secretive part of Iceland.
48 The Reykjavík Grapevine
The Reykjavík Grapevine 49
East
Best Meal Must-See Spot
50
If west is the best, east is the... beast?
Best Accommodation
Skaftfell Bistro Borgarfjörður
Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Eystri
As well as winning the Best Gallery cat- This tiny, secluded village of just 100 in-
egory, the basement bistro of Skaftfell habitants is 70 km east of Egilsstaðir, far
in Seyðisfjörður met with universal from the tourist traffic of the Ring Road.
praise from the panel. Their pizzas are You can see the Álfaborg (“Elf Castle”)
crisp and generously topped (try the rock formation, where the queen of the
reindeer and blue cheese pizza), they hidden people reportedly holds court,
have a good selection of draught and and meander round the Víknaslóðir
bottled Icelandic beers, and it’s homely hiking trails; there are good accommo-
and comfortable enough to hanging dation options, a birdwatching hide, a
out playing board games afterwards. I8 decent café, and a fish factory that you
can visit, all set between scenic moun-
tains and the rippling fjord. I7
Skálanes
Seyðisfjörður
Hotel Hildibrand The Arctic Henge, Raufarhöfn

The unusual, ambitious and remote Skálanes guesthouse was Hafnarbraut 2, Neskaupstaður This large stone henge feels like an
heaped with praise from the panel, making it a clear winner. Locat- After driving a long fjord and passing unlikely site, on a lonely hill in the
far north-easterly corner of Iceland.
ed in a large nature reserve 17 km east of Seyðisfjörður, it’s the po- through a disconcertingly narrow
tunnel carved through the mountain It’s a series of basalt structures
lar opposite of a roadside motel—you’ll have to cross a small river with columns that lean together to
to reach Neskaupstaður, a good meal
to get to this tranquil and ecologically minded place. “It’s not the sharp peaks, forming gates at each
awaits you. At Hotel Hildibrand you can
most luxurious guesthouse, but it’s the most authentic,” said the corner. The sea view and surrounding
order local meat and lamb, seafood landscape is breathtaking, and the
panel. “It’s completely isolated. It just you, the house, a couple of soup, and burgers, served by young atmosphere enticingly eerie. D2
other people and the nature.” Map square: I8 local waiters who know everything
about the area. I9
Runner Up Runner Up
Kirkjubær Berunes, Berufjörður Salt Hafnarnesviti við Fáskrúð

Fjarðarbraut 37a, Stöðvarfjörður The Berunes hostel sits in the peaceful Miðvangur 2, Egilsstaðir Pretty much as far as you can get from
If you’ve been admiring the old-fash- fjord of Berufjörður, and includes This warm and comfortable diner-bar Reykjavík is the proud and impressive
ioned wooden churches of Iceland, you lodgings in a homely, old-fashioned has large booths and a varied menu Hafnarnes Lighthouse, which lies off
might like to sleep in one. When a new farmhouse, complete with the original that includes pizza, curry, burgers and Route One just north of Stöðvarfjörður.
church was built in Stöðvarfjörður, Kirk- fittings and fixtures. “The farmers at Icelandic fish/lamb staples. It’s the per- It's easy to miss, but you shouldn’t drive
jubær was bought and renovated into a Berunes are pioneers in hostelling fect place to wait out a snowstorm, and by: “There’s something about it that
cosy hostel by a local family. “The spirit in Iceland,” said the panel. “Their is open 10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat and from lifts my spirit every time I visit” said one
there might not be holy any more,” said award-winning hostel in the old farm- midday on Sundays, all year round. I9 panellist. I11
the panel, “but it sure is good.” I11 house is amazingly authentic.” H12
East
Best Hike Best Road Trip
52
Watch out for the lake monster
Best Bathing Spot

Stórurð Lagarfljót
Borgarfjörður eystri Near Egilsstaðir
This hike, which begins on the road Lagarfljót is a beautiful body of water
to Borgarfjörður eystri, got glowingly surrounded by interesting features.
enthusiastic praise from the panel. You can stop for a hike to the towering
Translating as “The Giant Boulders,” the Hengifoss waterfall, which is surround-
route takes two and half hours each ed by dramatic basalt formations,
way, passing lava formations, bright and visit the historical Skriðuklaustur
ponds, open fields and the various museum and the Vallanes organic farm.
huge tuff boulders from which it gets Guttormslundur is a grove of Siberian
its name. “Make a one-day stop here on larch trees that are unusually tall for
your way to to Borgarfjörður eystri,” ad- Iceland, with a trail to the lake’s shore.
vised the panel. “The nature here is just Across the water lies the country’s
spectacular, and the reward when you largest forest of Hallormsstaður, which
reach your destination is priceless.” I7 has walking trails, great views, and the
Atlavík camping ground. G9
Neskaupstaður Pool
Miðstræti 15, Neskaupstaður
This town pool has a stunning view across the fjord to some huge Waterfall Lane, Seyðisfjörður Kárahnjúkar
mountains that feel almost in touching distance. “It’s a personal fa- Seyðisfjörður is surrounded by vast The area of Kárahnjúkar, just north of
vourite,” said one panellist. “It has all you need: a large enough pool mountains with countless waterfalls the Vatnajökull glacier, is famous for the
to do laps, a choice of hot tubs, and a sauna. But the great thing teeming down them. The Waterfall Lane construction of a controversial dam—
about this pool though is the atmosphere. There is just a really good hike goes up a valley with intermittent but our panel said that if you ignore
cliffs—like a staircase made for a that, there are many beautiful canyons
spirit amongst the regulars, and interesting conversations to be
giant—and at each one you’ll pass a to be explored, such as the dramatic
had in the hot tubs.” Map square: I9 tumbling waterfall. Looking down to the Hafrahvammagljúfur and Dimmugljúfur.
fjord, the view on the return journey is “See if you can find the secret pool,”
Runner Up Runner Up even better. I8 said one panellist, mysteriously. E10
Langanes, Þórshöfn
Selárlaug Egilsstaðir Pool, Víknaslóðir, Borgarfjörður eystri This long peninsula near Þórshöfn in the
Selárdal Vopnafjörður Tjarnarbraut 26, Egilstaðir This well regarded hike takes you to north east is famous for its wildlife. Af-
Built in 1949 as a training pool, Selár- Egilstaðir’s smart and modern town some of the abandoned or unpopulated ter passing by the remnants of ancient
laug is located on the banks of a fa- pool is a perfect example of Iceland’s fjords and coves around the town of farms and various more recent disused
mous salmon-fishing river, 12 km from bathing culture. The hot pots are Borgarfjörður eystri. You’ll see rhyolite buildings, you can drive to the Skoruvík
the town of Vopnafjörður. It has a sun packed with regulars relaxing, passing mountains, dramatic cliffs and black cliffs, which tower over the Stórikarl
deck, hot pots and a great view—if the the time and talking about anything beaches; routes vary from a one-day rock formation, home to a large gannet
weather is nice, you could quite easily and everything; you can do laps to hike up to a ten-day epic. I8 colony. The picturesque Fontur light-
spend a whole afternoon there. G6 cool down, then jump back in and soak house awaits you at the tip. F3
some more. Afterwards, there’ll be no
tension left in your body. H8
53
TAKE THE
ICELANDIC PLEDGE
LEARN HOW TO
TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY
AND TAKE PART IN
KEEPING ICELAND CLEAN
AND UNSPOILED AT
INSPIREDBYICELAND.COM
East
54
Where the mountains slump into the sea
Best Tour Best Museum/Gallery
Sea Angling Trip

Breiðdalsvík
Skaftfell
Location: Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður
Whether or not you’re an experienced fisherman, you’ll enjoy the An outpost of contemporary art in the far east of Iceland is the Skaf-
sea angling day trip that leaves from the small town of Breiðdalsvík. tfell gallery, which won the Eyrarrós national award for rural arts
All the fishing equipment will be provided, and while you fish, you’ll organisations a couple of years ago. They have a year-round pro-
see seabirds, seals and puffins on the islands around the fjord. The gramme that varies between contemporary shows by international
tour ends with a trip to Hotel Bláfell, where the catch will cleaned visitors and local artists, and work by Dieter Roth, who spent much
and cooked for dinner by the chef. Map square: I11 of his life in the area. “It’s very ambitious,” said the panel, “and it’s
nice place to visit if the finer arts are up your alley.” I8
Runner Up Runner Up Runner Up Runner Up
Norðfjörður Boat Tour, Horse Riding Trip, The Wilderness Centre, Slaughterhouse Culture Centre
Neskaupstaður Neskaupstaður Norðurdalur in Fljótsdalur Kaupvangur 7, Egilsstaðir
Neskaupstaður is Iceland’s eastern- Located on the road to Neskaupstaður, Inland from the east coast lies the An old slaughterhouse converted
most town, making it the perfect place the Skorrahestar family farm offer a valley of Fljótsdalur, home to the Wilder- into culture centre, Sláturhúsið
to take a boat trip out around the two-hour riding trip past fields and ness Centre. It’s a jumping-off point into focuses mainly on theatre and dance
Eastfjords. You’ll get a seaborne view waterfalls up to a vantage point with the area’s nature and hiking trails—and performances, but it also organizes
of the various peninsulas, coves and a view down over Norðfjörður. You’ll be also Iceland’s past, via its preserved events, exhibitions and workshops of
inlets that make up Iceland’s eastern treated to coffee and Icelandic cakes, interiors, and the abandoned farm of every kind. Being a pillar of the cultural
coast, revealing the landscape from and told about the nature and history Klief. “The people who run it are original community of the East, it's a must-visit
a different perspective, and there’s a of the area. I8 geniuses,” said the panel. “No spoilers, destination for curious souls in search
chance of seeing whales, too. I9 just go!” H10 of something different H8
56
& OUTDOOR
ADVENTURES
DAY TOURS FROM:

REYKJAVÍK
SÓLHEIMAJÖKULL
SKAFTAFELL
OUTDOOR
ADVENTURESAD SUPER
JEEP
LKS VENTUR
GLACIER WA GLACIER WALKS, HIKING AND PRIVATE
AFELL
ES
& CAVING FROM REYKJAVÍK 2017-18
KULL & SKAFT FROM REYK TOURS
SÓLHEIMAJÖ - 18 JAVÍK 2017
S 2017 - 18
DAY TOUR
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nguides .is info@icelandr vers.is
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