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Editor in chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman SAVE ENERGY
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) save money
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim
Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed
Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)
Sub Editor
Akhi Akter
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Use ecofriendly energy saving
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Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz
Rakibul Islam
Al Takbir Mahim
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30 Eco-friendly chemicals 40 Bangladesh
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Exclusive Interview
32-34 Need joint effort
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36 ‘Sustainability Compact’
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Factory Tales-Textile Icon
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2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Market Analysis
Investment Model
55-56 Management
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apparel market (in percent, Source: WTO)
42
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6 commitment should
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Bangladesh
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2 remains 2nd
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Exclusive Interview
Jute viscose
Huge domestic and global demand
for jute viscose fiber shows a great
prospect to produce it in Bangladesh
change the
Mirza Azam MP
State Minister for Textiles and Jute
history of
The Ministry of Textiles and Jute of
Bangladesh is responsible for the
promotion, development, and regulation
Bangladesh’s
of the Bangladesh textile and apparel
industry. Recently in a conversation with
Bangladesh Textile Today Mirza Azam
jute industry
MP, State Minister for Jute and Textile,
opens up on several significant issues
related to the jute and textile industry,
including latest updates on jute viscose
project, BJMC activities etc. Here is the
illuminating part of the discussion for
Textile Today readers.
Textile Today: We know a minute and that means cotton import will whereas we can collect 65 to 70
of a document was signed be less than 200,000 bells each percent cellulose from our 3 to 4
by the Bangladesh Jute Mills year. months old jute plant!
Corporation (BJMC) and China’s
We are implementing this jute From wood and jute cellulose, we
Textile Industrial Corporation for
viscose production project can also make powder. The cost
foreign economic and Technical
because it is completely new in for producing per kg of powder
Corporation to take the jute
Bangladesh. We are demonstrating from jute is 2200 taka (around 25
viscose project onward. In
the way as any private company to 27 dollar) whereas the cost will
addition, an expert team from
will not dare to take the risk for be 1800 dollar if that is produced
Bangladesh visited some viscose
such a new project. The private from wood.
plants in China for an exposure to
companies will only come forward
carbon/charcoal-based viscose From cellulose we can produce
when they will see our success in
manufacturing process. Could you all sorts’ necessary things, we can
this project. I think many factories
please share us the update of the make medicine peel from our jute
will be set up to produce viscose
project? cellulose. Huge domestic markets,
in our country as the raw material
as well as international markets,
Mirza Azam MP: The project is is at arm’s reach at low cost and
are eagerly waiting to take all of
undergoing. We have already we also can export viscose after
those products. I think in future we
made a Development Project
have to be watchful over our jute
Proposal (DPP) and sent it to
cultivation lands.
the Planning Commission. The The project cost to build
commission suggested us to do Textile Today: A few days ago
a factory for producing Dr. Mubarak Ahmad claimed that
‘International Feasibility’ report on
it. We gave the responsibility to a
viscose is 120 billion due to the lack of 1.7 billion Tk,
Germany organization and we are taka, not 1 billion, plus the project polythene from Jute
is going to be shut down. Why is
expecting that we will get it within land and other costs
one month. Earlier we did the the government not taking proper
need to be included. actions to make the project
feasibility report locally.
Altogether the total cost successful?
Textile Today: BJMC said that
will be much higher. Mirza Azam MP: The project
the proposed plant will need a
minimum investment of ten billion After implementation spirit has come directly from our
taka. Is the government have the of the project, we can honorable Prime Minister, we all
mindset to invest in viscose and are doing these as he ordered
produce 40,000 tons of
finally when Bangladesh can able us to do these and not 1.7 billion
viscose every year and taka, even though the project
to produce viscose commercially?
that means cotton import required 700 billion taka, our
Mirza Azam MP: The word
will be less than 200,000 Prime Minister did it. Normally
‘viscose’ was alien to us. At
Ministry of Textile and Jute faces
first, I heard this word from our bells each year.
difficulties to get allocation for
honorable Prime Minister Sheikh
any project from Finance Ministry,
Hasina. She emphasized us to dig
but for the project related to jute,
ourselves in it. Then we looked
we did not face any difficulties.
into the matter and found that fulfilling our local demand. So that
Just a few days ago, the Executive
every year we import viscose from we have a great expectancy from
Committee of the National
abroad worth about 1 billion taka. the ‘jute viscose project’.
Economic Council (ECNEC)
Normally viscose is derived from Fascinating thing is that from jute approved around 4 billion taka for
the ‘cellulose’ from wood pulp, but cellulose we can make viscose, we a jute project of Jute Department.
it is also possible to make viscose can make jute polybag, we can We are reopening our three jute
fiber from ‘jute cellulose’, which make frame for eyeglasses and mills by our own funding and
is more reasonable and advanced much more. A few days ago, we within just one month 1.72 billion
quality. sent a team including Dr. Mubarak taka project has been approved
The project cost to build a factory Ahmad Khan in England to look for from ECNEC.
for producing viscose is 120 billion ‘jute polymer automatic machine’.
Our Prime Minister has already
taka, not 1 billion, plus land and Our team understood that to
approved the 5.19 billion taka
other costs need to be included. produce viscose from wood, it
project (Sheikh Hasina Specialized
Altogether the total cost will be needs to plant a tree and after 4 to
Jute and Textile Mill) to produce
much higher. After implementation 5 years later, they collect cellulose
denim fabric and raw materials of
of the project, we can produce from the tree. They can collect 30
various diversified products.
40,000 tons of viscose every year percent cellulose from the wood
Textile Today: The government buying low-price jute by the high Textile Today: The government
is going to set up a specialized price. So why are we doing loss has a plan to establish a lot of
jute textile mill (Sheikh Hasina to buy jute at a high price? BJMC textile engineering college and
Specialized Jute and Textile is not a business organization; it textile institute in every district.
Mill) at a cost of Tk 5.19 billion is the government, who saves the However, we are seeing that many
although public sector textile farmers. When we buy jute by the textile engineers are remaining
and jute mills are counting high rate then the private sector unemployed in our country. In
losses every year. How will the forced to buy it with the same or this context, I want to ask you
government make the project nearest price. BJMC is providing that is there any necessity of a
profitable? a subsidy to the farmers from the textile institute in every district.
Agriculture Ministry.
Mirza Azam MP: Now we produce Mirza Azam MP: In our textile
jeans pant from imported cotton, For several reasons, the workers sector about 13000 to 15000
cost of per jeans pant is about are almost double than a necessity Indian, Sri Lankan employees
800 to 1200 taka, but in our ‘50% in a public mill, so that we have are working. Per employee gets
jute+50% cotton’, the cost will to pay them double. Without 50 thousand taka to 0.5 million
be maximum 300 to 400 taka. this, you know that the salary of taka salary each month. Why
There are huge domestic market workers is high in a public jute mill are they getting such amount,
as well as global markets for this than a private jute mill. However, in because they are efficient?
product. Every year we will profit a private mill, a worker has to work Many private universities are just
around 1.70 to 1.80 billion taka hard and more than a public mill, selling certificates. A real textile
and within 6 years our investment but we have to pay almost double engineer is not being unemployed
will come out. The government salary to our workers. Therefore, to rather he/she gets a job before
is not a business organization, help and support the farmers we finishing his/her education. We
we are just showing the path to are doing such loss. Once BJMC will establish a textile engineering
our businessmen as they will not was full of corruption, but we have college and textile institute in
take any risk for this experimental eliminated this corruption. every district, which will help to
project. build efficient manpower for the
We know that most of the public
sector, the sector earns 82 percent
As corruption is a common mills are of 50’s decade. One of
foreign currency.
scenario in the public sector that the major reasons for the loss of
is why public mills do loss and BJMC loss is the low productivity Bangladesh government
private sector do profit. When we of the jute mills, the productivity announced 50 billion USD target
will see that the private sector is is only 50%. Electricity bill is huge. for apparel export by 2021. To
acquiring this project, if necessary, If we had 90% productivity then fulfill this target we need more
we will shut down the project if we the electricity bill would be the efficient manpower. It does not
cannot profit. same but profit would be high. make sense that we will hire
We are giving a high salary, high efficient manpower from India and
Textile Today: According to
electricity bills but for lower Sri Lanka and spend our earned
a finance ministry provisional
productivity due to old machinery, money for them.
estimate, the BJMC loss was Tk
we are doing loss. However, we are
4.89 billion in the last fiscal year Bangladesh government has made
doing less loss than previous times
and every year the government 100 economic zones where many
as previous times the amount of
gives Tk 5 billion to Tk 10 billion textile factories will be set up and
losses were almost 10 to 12 billion,
in subsidies to the BJMC from it requires huge textile engineers.
which we have brought down by
the budget. How do you see all On the other hand, China is
4.89 billion.
of the matters? Why is BJMC leaving its textile business and to
facing loss? And how can BJMC Textile Today: Why are we using grab this opportunity we need
overcome this hurdle? old machinery that are the reason more textile engineers too.
for low productivity?
Mirza Azam MP: Actually BJMC Therefore, the textile engineering
is not doing any loss. There are Mirza Azam MP: We need latest college and textile institute we will
80 thousand employees under and modern machinery to increase set up will not make unemployed
BJMC and at least ten times of this our productivity and that is why engineers rather it will remove
people are related to this sector. we are bringing all types of new unemployment and decrease
40 million people of Bangladesh machinery. We are importing new foreign dependency on skilled
are involved with it. When we see machinery from our own fund of workers.
the jute marker is downward, we 1.72 billion taka. We are using all
fix jute price at a rate, which is latest and advanced machinery
profitable for farmers though to at Sheikh Hasina Specialized Jute
do this we are doing loss as we are and Textile Mill.
Necessity of HRIS
for human resources
management (Part-1)
A good HRIS provides the capability of effective planning, controls HR costs,
and improves employee and managerial productivity.
Ten Features of a good HRIS have been discussed Where policy is absent in black and white, a good
here and rest of the 13 features will be discussed in HRIS can be the substitute for that. All the policies
the next part to make it understandable for any HR can be adopted and implemented in an HRIS system.
professional irrespective of industry, type or size of In an organization, we have lots of policy but it is
the organization. tough to monitor all the things that are going on in
accordance with policy. But if we set this policy at An organization’s success depends on its employee’s
HRIS, we can easily implement these policies. For performance. Hence, evaluation of the employee’s
example, an organization has a policy like-employees performance is essential. But unfortunately,
who has completed six months will be entitled for employees are either undervalued or overvalued
certain benefits and if we set this policy at HRIS, then just because of the absence of the right tools. In
HRIS will always allow this certain benefits to those this case, HRIS provide the right tool to evaluate the
who meet this criterion. performance of the employees and ensure satisfied,
6. HR Planning and Budget Control motivated and productive employees. When a
180/360 degree appraisal is hard to practice in a
A right manpower planning is an essential part of manual system, a good HRIS can help to accomplish
at ease. Through HRIS organizations can conduct the
online appraisal.
Before selecting an employee organizations need to employees time properly, so it would be time
fix the job specification and job description of that wasting for a company if the employee went to HR
particular designation, moreover organizations need and ask for a few services like –pay slip, attendance
to analyze whether the position is required or not. information, tax statement, leave, loan, movement
Analyzing the job, time and frequency through HRIS issue and so on. Through employee self-service, an
organization can assess whether the organization employee can get these services at their desk which
needs the position or not. is time-saving and improve the quality of services.
8. Individual JD & KPI setting Your system should enable employees to log in
securely, update and maintain their details on the
Each individual has different KPI, target, and
system and they should be able to submit absences,
achievement so it is a tough job to do it manually.
holiday requests, and self-appraisal data directly
Once if we set the KPI and target on HRIS then it
to the system. Modern HR software should be
automatically recalls the performance data from the
automating these time consuming manual processes.
performance record table and does the necessary
calculation to show the performance. (To be continued…)
Textile
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Investment Model
Chinese company Huaren Linen Bangladeshi company as experts spinning, weaving, and processing
Group is going to invest in and technology are not available units. They are doing two types of
Bangladesh jointly with Anwar here, however, when a Bangladeshi weaving: terry towels and kitchen
Group, one of the veteran and company gets an offer from an towels, also the fashion related
oldest company of Bangladesh, for expert like Huaren Linen Group, fabrics. In the processing house,
linen fabric dyeing and finishing. it is good for both sides. And they have yarn dyeing, fabric
When different Chinese companies the joint project of Huaren Linen dyeing, and terry towels.
are confused on investing in Group and Anwar group is going
Recently China government has
Bangladesh for fabric dyeing to be a very good model, which
decided not to increase textile
and finishing, as there are some could be followed by others to
business and last year they shut
difficulties in a new project like solve the prevailing problems.
down a lot of dyeing factories.
setting up new product range,
Huaren Linen Group, starting Therefore, Chinese businessmen
process range etc., Huaren
from Harbin city, the hometown want to shift the business from
Linen Group is showing them a
of China’s modern linen industry, China to Bangladesh and in this
path. For huge fabric demand in
is a large vertically-setup linen continuation, Huaren Linen Group
Bangladesh’s apparel industry,
supplier including spinning, yarn is beginning dyeing production in
the second largest exporters in
dyeing, greige goods weaving Bangladesh from the end of this year
the world, and reducing lead-time
and finishing for yarn dyed fabric. or from the beginning of next year.
for Bangladeshi manufacturers
Since 2006, Huaren Linen Group
many Chinese companies want “We needed to find our best
is doing linen fabric business with
to expand their business in partner in Bangladesh. For the
Bangladesh. They were exporting
Bangladesh. Who are thinking last two years, I was working on
fabric from China to Bangladesh.
and trying to invest in Bangladesh this issue. Finally, 8 months back
They started their Bangladesh
can come up with any existing we signed a contract with Hossain
office in 2015.
company in Bangladesh to invest Mehmood, MD of Anwar group
like Huaren Linen Group. Anwar Group is one of the and we are on the way to finalize
renowned groups in Bangladesh everything,” said Mir Shahed
To set up fabric dyeing and
started in 1834. They have Chowdhury, Managing Director of
finishing unit is tough for a
Figure 1: Managing Derictor of Anwar Group, Hossain Mehmood & Mir Shahed Chowdhury, Managing Derictor of Huaren Linen Group, Bangladesh.
CREATING
SUSTAINABLE
FUTURE
M M Uddin
C&
more responsible production The first signatories to the group Development of Viscose
A
methods. and is developing a
Esprit 10-year roadmap for
“But the unlikely bedfellows Inditex
improvement, the report
of luxury brands and discount
said.
retailers continue to ignore an
issue that is blighting people’s co AS Overall, though, many
Tes OS
lives and the environment. “What’s viscose producers are
H&M
more, most luxury fashion brands not doing enough to
Marencer
Sp
ket
are failing to publicly disclose ensure their operations
&
supply chain information. This is are not damaging the
unacceptable. It’s time for them environment, the report
Figure 3: In the roadmap for sustainable viscose
to wake up to consumers’ desire sourcing, only seven brands have so far signed up.
concludes, adding that
for more transparency and more on top of concerns about
sustainable fashion,” Natasha sourcing, production practices, chemical pollution the sector is
Hurley added. and transparency. also largely reliant on carbon-
In the YouGov poll findings, 30 intensive energy.
Tesco’s Senior Sustainability
Manager for its F&F Clothing line, percent of the 2,000 adults asked According to the report, policy-
Carmen Chan, urged that we need said they expected luxury brands makers should also play a role
to collaborate with our peers, to be sustainable, compared to by putting into place ambitious
suppliers, NGOs, and governments just 13 percent who expected regulations. The European
to help transform the textile and the same of low-cost brands and Commission must review its EU
clothing industry. supermarkets. Ecolabel in 2020 and bring it in
However, while the report suggests line with the parameters set out in
Another signatory, M&S, has said
“much progress remains to be EU BAT. The European Parliament
it will not source from any man-
made”, it does also highlight has also called on the European
made cellulosic fiber suppliers
some small successes since the Commission to propose legislation
which do not transition to a
previous report from the group, for a due diligence system based
closed-loop manufacturing system
which it said indicates the “tide is on the OECD guidelines on
by 2023-25, explaining that such
beginning to turn in favor of more Responsible Supply Chains in the
a system should aim to recycle
responsible viscose production.” Garment and Footwear Sector.
the majority of chemicals used
France has already adopted such
during the production and prevent The two largest viscose producers a law, and it will be interesting
the process from negatively in the world, Austria’s Lenzing to observe how retailers and
impacting on human health and and India’s ABG, have both now investors change their practices
the environment. committed to making all their sites in light of increased knowledge of
Other fashion brands such as Stella meet EU Ecolabel requirements risks and liabilities across garment
McCartney, Eileen Fisher, and for production, and in China, the supply chains.
Patagonia are also praised in the country’s 10 largest producers
have joined together to form Given the global nature of
report for their work on viscose
the fashion industry, tackling
environmental and social violations
in its supply chains requires an
approach that goes beyond national
borders and voluntary industry-led
initiatives, said the report.
As everyone in the fashion industry
concedes, ensuring transparent,
ethical and environmentally
sustainable supply chains is an
extremely complex and ongoing
challenge. It could overcome only
by working together across the
industry that such widespread
problems can be solved and
Figure 2: Viscose is derived from the ‘cellulose’ or wood pulp from fast-growing,
regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine.
properly regulated.
Bangladesh’s textile and apparel FDI trends in Bangladesh's textile industry (in $million)
sector has seen a sharp rise
in Foreign Direct Investment
(FDI) in the last year, thanks to
500
442.92
government initiatives to entertain 421.48 421.68
foreign investors. 378.93 366.44
400
According to Bangladesh Bank
(BB) data, in the calendar 2017,
Bangladesh’s textile and apparel 300
sector has received a foreign
investment of $421.68 million,
which is 15.70% higher compared 200
to $364.44 million in the year 2016.
However, the overall net inflows 100
of foreign direct investment in the
country declined by 8.42% to $2.15
billion in 2017 from $2.33 billion a 0
year ago.
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Figure: FDI trends in Bangladesh textile and apparel industry from 2015
South Korea has made the largest
to 2017.
investment of $103 million in the
country’s textile sector, while Hong Textile Today. investment from foreign countries.
Kong $66.13 million and the United Though overall FDI has seen a
Bangladesh has to import a
Kingdom (UK) $42 million. slight decline last year, we are
huge amount of woven fabrics to
hopeful to see a jump in the
Why investment sees a jump meet the local demands. Foreign
current year as Bangladesh is
investment in the textile sector will
Since, Bangladesh is the second ready with better infrastructure
help Bangladesh building a strong
largest exporters of apparel and SEZs, he added.
backward linkage for the woven
products in the world after
sector, said Salam, also Managing Bangladesh government has
China, there is a huge investment
Director of Envoy Textile Limited. taken steps to establish 100
opportunity in the textile and
Special Economic Zones (SEZs).
garment industry. On top of that, new investment
On the other hand, it has given
will create jobs for Bangladeshi
The available workforce at a importance to ease the registration
people, a crying need to reduce
reasonable wage, duty-free market process for the foreign as well as
the unemployment rate and
access in major export destination, the local investors through one-
meeting the government vision of
preferential location in the heart stop service, Commerce Minister
a developing country, he added.
of the Asia-Pacific region and Tofail Ahmed said to Textile Today.
government policy support acted “As a government organization,
As a result, foreign investors have
as a catalyst to attract foreign Bangladesh Investment
become more interested to invest
investment in the textile and apparel Development Authority (BIDA) is
here. In the year to come, the
industry, stakeholders opined. providing all-out service through
investment in the textile sector
one-stop service. While the
“Since, the RMG sector is growing from the foreign investors will see a
digitized system has made the
very fast in Bangladesh, foreign sharp rise as the SEZs are becoming
process very easy, which pushed
investors chose the country ready for investment, he added.
the foreign investment in the
as an investment destination
textile sector up,” BIDA Executive Textile industry needs FDI to
in the textile sector,” Abdus
Chairman Kazi M Aminul Islam said. produce value-added products
Salam Murshedy, a Former
President of Bangladesh Garment As per the direction of Prime Bangladesh is producing
Manufacturers and Exporters Minister Sheikh Hasina, we are mostly basic clothing items. In
Association (BGMEA) said the working very hard to attract moving forward in the value-
added product, Bangladesh industry, said Islam. However, we did not pay heed to
needs investment in high-tech the oppose by the apparel makers,
Joint venture investment in the
manufacturing to exchange if there is no lack of document as
apparel sector can be a tool to
experience of the developed country. per Bangladeshi laws, he added.
move for the value-added product,
“We can allow foreign investment as we lack technical expertise As we are the second in the export
where there is a need such as in and technology in this area, the market, we should think about
high tech-fabrics manufacturing economist added. the value-added product, as it
and technology-based garment will help to remain competitive in
However, the local manufacturers
manufacturing to make value- the market. Investment in textile
are opposing FDI as they think
added products, former financial and apparel industry will help to
that the foreign investment will
advisor to caretaker government produce high-quality fabrics as the
grab a larger market share.
AB Mirza Azizul Islam said to foreign investors have expertise in
Textile Today. “We welcome FDI in any sector this area, said a local manufacturer.
from any country in any sector.
However, Bangladesh government Recently, Chinese company Huaren
But there is a little unwillingness
has to set the policy to allow Linen Group is going to invest in
from the RMG manufacturers in
investment based in the country’s Bangladesh jointly with Anwar
entertaining investment in the
trade policy and global market Group, one of the veterans and the
sector,” seeking anonymity an
situation. On the other hand, the oldest company of Bangladesh, to
official of the Bangladesh Investment
government has kept in mind set up dyeing mill.
Development Authority (BIDA).
about the protection of local
Bangladesh government
increases cash incentives
for apparel sector to new
markets
Staff Correspondent
Bangladesh remains the second Bangladesh's share of the global have a bright future in
largest apparel exporter in the apparel market (in percent, Source: WTO) apparel business but
7
world, after China, according to we need to do a lot
the World Trade Organization more homework. As
6
(WTO) data. The data said much as 40 percent
that Bangladesh held on to its 5 of Bangladesh’s
status in the world in FY 2017-18, garment exports
accounting for 6.5 percent share 4 comprise value-
of the market. added items, which
3 fetch more money for
In 2016, Bangladesh’s share of
exporters,” he added.
the global apparel market was 2
6.4 percent. In 2017, Bangladesh He explained
exported garment items worth $29 1 about one factor
billion. China remained the largest that consolidated
0
apparel supplier globally; the value 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Bangladesh’s position
of exported clothing items from in global apparel
China last year was $158 billion. trade is its bulk order for value-
added items in recent times.
Vietnam exported $27 billion
worth of garment products in 2017 In 2016, Bangladesh’s “The buyers are coming here
with its 5.9 percent market share, share of the global apparel with the bulk of work orders
the WTO data said. India, with its as the country’s image has
market was 6.4 percent. In
garment exports of $18 billion in now brightened after the near-
2017, ranked fourth. Turkey came 2017, Bangladesh exported completion of factory remediation
fifth with a 3.3 percent market garment items worth $29 as per the recommendations
share. billion. China remained the by the Accord and Alliance,” he
The WTO data also showed that in largest apparel supplier continued.
2017 the top 10 exporting nations’ globally; the value of Almost all top clothing retailers
share was 87.8 percent and the exported clothing items like H&M, Walmart, JC Penney,
value was $457 billion. from China last year was Inditex, Zara, Gap, M&S, Uniqlo,
C&A, Tesco, Hugo Boss and Adidas
Siddiqur Rahman, President $158 billion.
have been souring billions worth
of Bangladesh Garment
of garment items from Bangladesh
Manufacturers and Exporters
every year.
Association (BGMEA), said, “We
Rising garment shipments to new
Country Global market share in% Export earnings in $billion and emerging Asian markets such
China 34.4 158 as India, China, and Japan have also
Bangladesh 6.5 29 contributed to the higher earnings.
Manufacturing of dyestuffs has All together the supply chain suffering. With a trend where
been halted and disturbed for have been disturbed and the dyestuff manufacturers are being
several times through several most affected counterpart were more centralized and the industry
months in major manufacturing as always the fabric mills located is getting more monopolized, the
countries. Strict implementation of in countries like Bangladesh. fabric mills are becoming victims.
some regulations in China affected As whole scenario was going Introduction of control systems
the supply of raw materials for unpredictable and nobody gave like Zero Discharge to Hazardous
dyes manufacturing to major any precautions, the mills had to Chemicals (ZDHC) and ‘Bluesign’
global manufacturers located in source dyes in much high price has made things even difficult.
India, Korea and even in China. As and many within the system Recently in a Textile Today
textile fabric mills had to continue played the situation making seminar participants from fabric
to process fabrics for global advantage. mills mentioned that everybody
brands (who hardly considers always showing finger to fabric
backend supply difficulties), Industry insiders opined that such mills for complying MRSL, RSL and
demand of dyes was strong and so incidents have been happening delivery commitments, whether
price continue to rise. Fabric mills occasionally through last 4-5 the input suppliers like dyestuff
didn’t receive dyes consistently years. And most of the time the manufacturers are not supporting
even after paying higher amount. fabric manufacturers have been by supplying right products
Figure: Recently Bangladesh has been increasing its fabric manufacturing capacity significantly. A great number of new state of the art
dyeing machines like this one in the picture (in Knit Concern Ltd.) has been installed.
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
Rakibul Islam
Soma Akter
Nepal Nath
Naznin Wahed
Business Development ‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding
Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and
explore positives and significant stories from sites of the
Akhi Akter
industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video
SN Abdullah
Sub Editor
contents will be developed to highlight & promote best
practices; product and process development stories; social and
environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel
Rahbar Hossain manufacturing companies.
Editorial Coordinator
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design
www.factorytalesbd.com
25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748
Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com
F a c t o r y Ta l e s -To p S t o r y
the disperse dyes. In very recent of Zhejiang Province in East China. already. The dyeing processes
times price of reactive dyes is The team announced to investigate used to color the garment are
getting to ease however the from August 11th to September opting for low-VOC technologies
supply uncertainties continue 11th in Zhejiang province, means in and eco-friendly procedures and
to remain. According to the following days many factories are fabric mills have to comply with
MarketsandMarkets™ report, facing to be limited to produce or MRSL and RSLs. Consumers are
based on dye type, the disperse stop production or close the door. also willing to pay a higher price
dye segment is estimated to be A notice from a major dyestuff for such products. But all these
the largest dye type segment of manufacturer to a Bangladesh aspects are hitting mostly to the
the textile dyes market in 2017, in customer mentioned that “All small fabric manufacturers.
terms of both value and volume. items like Red 167, Green 9, Red
The demand for disperse dye 343, Yellow 114, Orange 29 etc won’t Being one of the major textile
continues to be driven by its use in be produced during the time”. fabric manufacturers in the world
many types fibers such as nylon, Bangladesh has to craft policies
polyester, acetate, and triacetate. to save its industry from such
Being one of the major turmoil. When the global super
Mentioning a news report Wang textile fabric manufacturers powers like the US and China is
Rui, Senior Marketing Specialist in the world Bangladesh becoming more protectionists,
at YaBang (a dyes, pigments, has to craft policies to it is clear that countries like
pharmaceuticals and intermediates save its industry from such Bangladesh also have to be
supplier from China), informed turmoil. When the global protectionist. Instead of believing
that every October 1st week, when super powers like the US is so called free trade, Bangladesh
the air quality is declining and and China is becoming has to reduce risk in supply and
there are foggy weather warnings, more protectionists, it is availability of raw materials.
all chemical companies must stop clear that countries like Dyes and chemicals are major
the peak production in China. It Bangladesh also have to raw materials for textile mills.
is foreseeable that from October be protectionist. Instead Bangladesh consumes dyes and
2018 to 2019, the whole Zhejiang of believing is so called chemicals worth of about 800
will continue to take much stricter free trade, Bangladesh million USD every year. Which is
measures in environmental has to reduce risk in a significant amount, and so the
protection. And supply of supply and availability of country should play a potential
dyestuffs and raw materials of raw materials. Dyes and role in dyestuffs and chemicals
dyestuffs won’t be smooth soon. chemicals are major raw manufacturing industry. Mechanisms
materials for textile mills. should be devised to get more
According to the industry insiders, control in the supply chain.
the production of major dyestuff
manufacturers in China are still The sources also said that very Alternative environment friendly
being disturbed and affected recently, paper industry has been sources of raw materials for
because of the environmental affected as well, carton box factory dyestuff manufacturing have
protection in the northern of announce they are unable to get to be explored. Research and
Jiangsu province, China. In the raw materials and eventually has development in the aspects
face of the upcoming season increased the price; electroplate is needed. The brands should
of printing and dyeing industry, industry are almost closed since be aware of the supply chain
the continuous reduction of smell and pollution. In this regard, difficulties and they should
intermediates and dye stocks, the dyestuff manufacturers are facing adjust their requirements and
disperse conventional varieties, serious environmental check not budget accordingly as if other
including Disperse Black ECT same as before, price increasing is stakeholders in the supply chain
300% and Disperse Blue BGE , the being a daily issue in China. won’t get affected only. Industry
shortage of such small varieties initiatives like ZDHC and Bluesign
of dyes, the prices of disperse What is the way-out to the challenge? should promote them more in
dyes increased again at the end of the consumer level to make
August, 2018. There is no doubt that the textile sure extra expenditure from
dyeing industry is one of the most the consumers for environment
Authentic sources from several chemically intensive industries and health friendly products.
Chinese dyestuff manufacturing in the planet. However, there is a And the initiatives itself to make
companies said that the growing consumer consciousness sure that those extra money
Environmental supervisor team of to purchase eco-friendly garments. paid by consumers flow back to
China recently met in Hangzhou, And eventually industry initiatives the manufacturers who are real
the capital and most populous city like ZDHC and Blusign is in effect contributor in manufacturing right
products for them.
Bangladesh textile and apparel sector is contributing more than 12% in its GDP and
over 81% of the export earning comes from the industry. Our spinning sector has
improved a lot and helping our RMG industry to reduce the dependency of yarn
import and to save time. Gas, power, inefficiency ports are the present challenges
of the textile sector. Due to inefficient gas supply, many spinning factories are
facing a huge problem. If LNG added with our national grid line, the price will be
doubled. If the price is hiked in this way, our manufacturing cost also will be higher.
Approximately the cost will be increased 20 cents per kg. Besides when the gas
price will increase then bank loan interest and labor cost will also be high. We want
price predictability of electricity and gas so that we can plan for long periods for our
business. Besides, our government should give subsidiary and incentives for the spinning sector. We need
a strong monitoring system for the management of gas and electricity supply and ports.
Bangladesh textile sector is fully depended on gas and electricity. Gas crisis is one of
the major problems of our industry. Bangladesh government has started to import
LNG for fulfilling the demand of local industry. So that gas price is going to increase
from 8.8 tk per unit to 14.90 tk per unit. Gas price will be increased more than 80
percent. Day by day production cost is increasing but product price is to the other
way. We urge to the government that gas price should not be more than 11tk per unit
and government will give subsidiary and incentives for the spinning sector. Besides,
we need uninterrupted gas and electricity supply for spinning and dyeing sector.
If gas price increases, the direct production cost will go up. It will affect the net
profit of the manufacturing operation. However, perhaps it will ensure uninterrupted
gas and power supply for the textile and RMG industry. I would like to request
the government to do consideration and offer some kinds of concessions for
manufacturing sector regarding the pricing of LNG in the generators of the factories.
Due to the shortage of gas, the garments makers use diesel generator where the
costing is 12-13 TK per kilowatt. But in terms of pricing, it will be quite close but
our request to the government from the perspective of the competitiveness of our
manufacturing sector is to increase the price with a reasonable limit. As RMG sector
plays a great role in the country’s economy, we are requesting to the government to
consider some sort of concessioner price at least for the reputed factories.
From this training, the participants develop action plans. Ltd inspired the workers to follow
got an idea of different elements up with the content discussed in
Total 60 trainees attended
of a chemical management system, the sessions. They also emphasized
the session and Mohammad
identify, document and calculate that everyone should spread the
Wasiuzzaman Shohan (Lead Trainer)
chemical wastes and critical areas learning with other workers in his
and Ashiqur Rahman (Trainer) from
using eco-mapping, prepare or her work area.
ERI conducted the sessions.
chemical inventory, categorize The certificate giving ceremony
In a closing speech, Md.
and classify chemicals by hazard held on July 11, 2018. Md.
Asaduzzaman and Purnendu
and risk bands for possible Asaduzzaman and Purnendu Bikash
Bikash Mitra from Graphics Textiles
prioritization of interventions and Mitra were present at the ceremony.
Management commitment should
come first to make textile industry
more sustainable
Investment in training is very essential for the textile industry, in this regard,
management commitment should come first.
Mohim Hassan
CEO of Northern Tosrifa Group
Proper planning, strategy, and many lethal problems and their Mohim Hassan: Thanks for your
skilled workforce, all these three likely solutions of the industry thoughtful question. This is true
elements can bring any success came out. that our industry is growing
for the textile industry. Still, the fast but do not have long-term
industry has many basic issues Textile Today: We see plenty of planning and strategy, just because
though it’s giving a certain amount textile manufacturing industries top management is not envisioned.
of revenue. Mohim Hassan, CEO here in Bangladesh, but most of This unplanned expansion will
of Northern Tosrifa Group, who them don’t have proper long- be a burden very soon because
has the versatile knowledge and a term business planning, growth fast fashion is changing the
huge experience in this industry, strategy, marketing policies, data products range frequently and
gave an interview recently with analysis etc. Most of all owners manufacturing processes are also
Textile Today Industry Research taking the decision from guts changing accordingly.
Team. Through this conversation, feeling, so how do you see this
whole scenario? Decisions from guts feeling,
Knit Concern Group, one of the high capacity knit Co. Ltd. Jahangir Hossain Mollah, Vice President, Knit
fabric and garment manufacturing company has Concern Group received the crest from Fong’s as the
achieved a new capacity of dyeing sophisticated first valuable customer of TECWIN in Bangladesh.
very low and very high weight fabric smoothly. Nice Many industry professionals, experts, technologists
control systems in the new machine facilitate smooth from different factories were present at the seminar.
loading and storage within the machine, giving better
TECWINs technology and features
care in the process, meaning better quality fabric.
TECWIN is equipped and retained the superior
CHTC FONG’S International Company Limited
designs from the last generation. Additionally, some
brought TECWIN high-temperature dyeing machine
novel conceptual designs are integrated into this new
which is designed to satisfy the ever-changing
machine. Both the reliability and applicability of the
market demands with cutting-edge patented
machine are improved.
technology. Fong’s and Pacific Associates Ltd. jointly
organized an open house event on 11th August for Table: Technical data of TECWIN.
newly launched TECWIN machine at Knit Concern Design temperature 140°C
Group, Godnail, Narayanganj. This year in the middle
Design pressure 3.0 bar
of June, Knit Concern Group installed a TECWIN first
ever in Bangladesh. Heating gradient 25°C ~ 100°C approx. 5°C/min
100°C ~ 130°C approx. 2.5°C/
The new machine installed by Knit Concern is not
min(dry saturated steam
only giving them the capacity of a new range of pressure at 7bar)
quality fabric, it will also help the company to reduce
Cooling gradient 130°C ~ 100°C approx. 3°C/min
water, energy and chemical consumption. Mechanical
design and use of intelligent automation technology 100°C ~ 80°C approx. 2°C/
will solve many problems which traditionally was min(cooling water at 3bar, 25°C)
being overcome by using chemicals. Some special feature
of the m/c-
Front Spray Nozzle:
Provide an additional
opportunity to
increase the degree of
dye liquor interchange
before the fabrics
entering the main
nozzle. The levelness
and quality of fabrics
could be enhanced.
Automatic Variable
Loading Storage
Chamber: The loading
storage capacity
can be adjusted
automatically to suit
different kinds of
fabric running.
Figure 1: Jahangir Hossain Mollah from Knit Concern receiving the crest from Mr. Shahabuddin of Pacific
associates, others from both companies and fong’s are also seen in the picture. Liquid Dispersion
The event was inaugurated by the welcome speech Storage Chamber: Stainless steel bottom sieve with
of Mr. Shahabuddin, Managing Director of Pacific special design for effective liquid dispersion. Reduce
Associates Ltd. The technical session described fabric scratching or sticking using PTFE tubes
by Stephen S.L. Leung, Manager, Application design.
Technology Centre of Fong’s National Engineering
Dye Liquor Separation Design: The Dye liquor
separation is specially designed in TECWIN. Along
Figure 3: Experts from different textile factories visited Fongs TECWIN machine at Knit Concern Ltd.
material to increase lifting force; Nominal material to liquor ratio 2 tube TECWIN m/c, each tube
achieving an effective unloading (1:4~4.5) give this m/c more has 300 kg capacity. Total dyeing
operation. acceptability. Engr. Md. Rakibul capacity of KCL is about 35 tons
Hassan (Rocky), Deputy Manager daily. Knit Concern produces and
Control System: A good
(Dyeing), Knit Concern Ltd. exports about 150,000 pieces of
controlling system is considered as
said, “We recovered crease knit apparel and 25,000 pieces of
the heart of a dyeing m/c. Latest
mark greatly by using this m/c lingerie daily.
program controller – FC30EX is
and loading percentage is also
equipped in TECWIN. With the
increased notably.”
novel control functions, it is one of
the most cost-effective controllers. Knit Concern Ltd. installed the
Advantage
No more manual overfeed control
ELCOUNT
No more fabric wastage for GSM cutting
Revolution on GSM control for stenter & Sanfo Uniform GSM throughout the batch
VS
Country Representative
Staff Correspondent
Jointly Organized by
F a c t o r y Ta l e s - I n t e r v i e w
Country’s garment business has stumbled over many times from its beginning. However, the industry
has overcome all the obstacles and recently, Bangladesh has moved forward a step in terms of working
environment index. As a result, buyers rely on Bangladesh as a strong hotspot for sourcing, which helps
Bangladesh to hold the second largest apparel exporter position in the world. However, to uplift this industry
many pioneers and dedicators are working continuously.
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh is one of them who is now working at SM Knitwears Ltd (SM Group), the leading
company in Bangladesh RMG sector as an Executive Director (Marketing & Operation). Sawpan Kumar Ghosh,
one of most dominating noteworthy RMG leader and business icon in Bangladesh, has 26 years’ versatile
experience and in-depth knowledge on knitwear industry.
In a recent conversation with Abir Basak, Research Assistant and Reporter of Textile Today, he shared about his
company’s development, sector’s challenges, obstacles, sustainability issue, fashion business etc. Here is the
illuminated part of the discussion its best using. We had a chemical to all the neighboring clothes
for Textile Today readers. ETP plant before, but now effluent manufacturing countries. This is
is being treated in a modern a competitive market. To build
Textile Today: Tell us about the
biological plant by canceling a green and safe factory, the
journey of SM Knitwears and what
previous one. The present capacity owners have to invest a lot. All the
is the present condition of this
of ETP is 200 m3/ hour. For members of BGMEA invested a
company?
Accord inspection, we have our huge amount of money to upgrade
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: This own sustainability team who workplace safety in terms of
company started its commercial monitors regularly as an internal fire, electrical, structural issues,
operation in the year 2001 at audit. We are working towards production process and new
Shirirchala, Bhabanipur, Gazipur Zero Discharge at ETP. For highest machinery. New automatic, semi-
by setting up one joint venture sustainability, we use power saving automatic and resource efficient
knit composite plant under lights, servo motor in the sewing machinery have been added.
the umbrella of SM group in machine and exhaust gas boiler. Meanwhile, the investors want to
Bangladesh. We are a large bring back the invested money.
Textile Today: From which angle
business conglomerate engaged But the buyers are not paying the
SM Knitwears is different from
in domestic and overseas business expected price considering that.
others? What type of privileges
maintaining full compliance. As
is SM Knitwears giving to their So I think, local investors will be
a part of the natural growth of
workers and staffs? bashed in the business if buyers
business operation, we are now
buy clothes from non-compliance
spreading over from retailing Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: We give
factories of the neighboring countries.
fashion wear to the housing 600Tk attendance bonus to the
business. Basically, we make workers whereas others give Textile Today: What is the
all kinds of knit apparels for 400Tk. Salaries are given on time, condition of the Bangladesh
both women-men and kids. SM within the first 7 days of a month. apparel industry compared to
Knitwears has recently achieved Working time is fixed, daily 8 hours. the neighboring countries? From
sustainability certificate from We strictly follow international which sides this country is behind
NKD along with ACCORD, Sedex, labor laws, that’s why we don’t or ahead than others? How are
Okeo-Tex, BSCI, GOTS, ISO get any complain from our staffs the future prospects?
9001:2008 etc and this company and workers. Our mid-level Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: India is
one of the best five factory management is trained up in the very strong in textile, they have their
supplier in the world and the only factory’s internal training center own cotton, own chemical, yarn, and
one in Bangladesh for Li & Fung. to be highly competent. They fabric. They are the largest cotton
Zara, Next, Bench, Kmart, NKD, participate in BGMEA’s regular and woven fabric producer. They
Carrefour, Toray, Primark along training programs. High officials are are the second largest manmade
with other European and American also sent abroad. We arrange fire fiber producer in the world. India
buyers who are working with us. drill program in every month. has observed double-digit growth
They trust us much because of
Diversified product making in large in the apparel sector, which is
on-time delivery of qualitative
quantity is our strength. We have very challenging for us. China is
products. We are manufacturing a
a plan to build a high-class design leaving their market share as they
maximum 3.5 million garments per
center soon. are giving more concentration
month with modern sustainable
on higher value items. This is the
equipment’s. I can remember Textile Today: Bangladesh opportunity for Bangladesh to
when I joined here, the company’s has moved forward a step in grab the chair. Despite being the
turnover was US$ one million per sustainability and compliance second largest exporter of RMG
month only, but now our annual issue. What do you think about it? products, the country is yet to build
turnover is US$ 70 million. It is a
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: Building its own clothing brands with name
real achievement for us and we are
green factories and developing recognition in the international arena.
gradually growing as a team.
sustainability cultures are taking
On the other hand, China and
Textile Today: What type of Bangladesh at the unique height.
Bangladesh started the business
policy has SM Knitwears taken for There are 13 LEED Platinum
with low-cost clothing making
sustainability growth? factories including 67 LEED
at the same time. Today they
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: green registered factories in our
are producing high quality and
Sustainability is now a hot topic. country. This is undoubtedly a real
varied products and giving us the
Our whole apparel industry is breakthrough for our RMG sector.
opportunity to access the market
working very hard on it. Keeping in However, to make a green and of their abandoned products. Like
mind on this issue, SM Knitwears safe factory, not only Bangladesh, China, South Korea and Taiwan
gives the highest priority to ensure buyers should also pressurize have similarly industrialized their
country. Therefore, we have to we can get huge popularity by other countries where the outlets
change the strategy too. Instead of branding our own products. are available. We hope brand
relying on cheap labor prices, the authorities will concentrate on
Bangladeshi manufacturers need
competition will be sustained by it and start their marketing by
to showcase their innovative
increasing productivity and quality. products as well as the industrial establishing outlets in Bangladesh
Along with that, diversification strength. A Bangladeshi in near future.
of the product is needed for the manufacturer has to keep in In case of conflicting with local
expansion of the market or parallel mind that he is going to fight brands, I think, quality works as
expansion. We need support from brands like Zara, H&M or Marks the main catalyst. If local brands
all the stakeholders and especially and Spencer. The key tool to maintain their product’s quality, no
policy and financial support from fight is innovative fashion design foreign brand can beat them. Local
our government and banks. and qualitative products at a
brands have versatile experience
reasonable price. Bangladesh has
Textile Today: We know, SM on country’s people’s taste and
to have international exposure. It
Knitwears has own domestic demand. On the other hand, local
has to arrange more fashion shows
brand named ‘Smartex’. Do you fashion houses are expert to make
and seminars to showcase product
have any plans to go Smartex’s and design traditional attires. This
diversification and varieties, as
clothes in the international phenomenon and advantage will
well as need to participate in
market? What should be done keep ahead of our local brands.
international events to learn about
to increase the popularity fashion trends. Textile Today: What is the reason
of domestic brands in the
Textile Today: Popular brands like for Bangladesh to lag behind in
international arena?
H&M, Zara, GAP, Uniqlo opened the designing arena?
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: We have their outlets in neighboring Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: Yes, we are
no plans yet regarding on this
country ‘India’ or ‘Malaysia’. What not so much rich in the designing
issue. We started our own brand
are the reasons for not opening sector. Actually, this sector needs
for the local arena’s demand
their outlets in Bangladesh? If huge investment. Who worked
in 2002. In order to contribute
started, then how will it affect the here earlier to accelerate, they
more to Bangladesh’s economy
local brands? did not get a good response from
‘Smartex’ has started 35 total
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: It’s a buyers. Buyers chose their own
shopping outlets all over the
disappointing matter for us designs every time. For this reason,
country. Beside capital Dhaka,
that no multinational brands our factory owners did not get
we have attempted to provide
have opened their outlets yet in encouraged to develop this sector.
service in the rural areas. Country’s
many companies have their own Bangladesh although we make Hopefully, some factories such
creations like Sailor from Epillyon, their products. This country has as Auto-Tex, GMS, Urmi etc have
Yellow from Beximco, SaRa from moved far ahead in the economic started to develop their design
Snowtex, Klubhaus from Dekko index. The purchasing power studio to speed up the product
etc. They are doing excellent. of mass people has increased development process. If this sector
The only homemade brand can than before; luxurious, attractive is amplified in future successfully,
represent Bangladesh strongly in shopping malls are built. People we can get extra facilities on price
the world fashion place. Besides, go to buy clothes every year in negotiation policy.
Management
program
Contact
+88 02 55093682 | +88 01734211085
Jointly Organized by http://training.textiletoday.com.bd
Te x t i l e People
ROSSARI BIOTECH LIMITED, one “With an unbeatable combination for the pilot scale production,
of India’s leading manufacturers of R&D and best technical support, which is a mini replica of the full-
and exporters of textile chemical ROSSARI is constantly striving and fledged production plant. The
auxiliaries, enzymes, polymers coming out with newer products developed product is then tested
and animal healthcare products, and molecules. ROSSARI has for its commercial viability and is
organized a seminar titled ‘A Step products for textiles, spatiality scaled up to a commercial level
Towards Sustainable Textiles’ chemicals for coatings, paints, of production. ROSSARI has joint
on 3 August 2018 to promote and inks. ROSSARI also has venture business with Buzil, Unilever,
sustainability in the Textile animal health & nutrition, silicone HYDRA ITALIA & CYRA CHEM.
Industry of Bangladesh. The theme oil, laundry & industrial cleaning
Puneet Arora said in his speech
of the seminar was ‘Shonar Bangla chemicals and polymers for paints,
that ROSSARI was recognized
Sustainable Bangla’. ceramics, water treatment, paper &
as the ‘Star Performer 2018
textiles products.” Puneet Arora said.
Puneet Arora, Vice President, for Innovation’ by M/s Arvind
Rossari Biotech Limited, shared ROSSARI started its business in Industries for consistency in
the views and objectives of 1996, which was accorder as one delivering quality products, in-
Rossari with the audience. He star Export House in 2016 and in depth and Key performance in
said, “ROSSARI is recognized 2008. ROSSARI received an SE-1A Continuous Bleaching Range
as a pioneering force in the rating for highest performance (CBR) system.
Indian Textile Industry to provide capability and high financial
ROSSARI has sustainability
end to end solutions in Textile strength from CRISIL.
approach by minimum use of
Processing, tailor-made solutions
Rossari’s products are regularly resources (Water and Energy),
to their customers. ROSSARI has
exporting to 17 different countries chemical consumption, pollution
set up ‘State of the Art’ facilities
all over the world. The products load, elimination of toxic chemicals
manufacturing process and it
are successfully tested by the from the supply chain and by
has dedicated research and
R&D team and approved by the elimination of harmful chemical
development (R&D) labs at their
marketing team is forwarded residues from final textile. ROSSARI
HO and Factory.”
Figure 1: (From the left) Shantanu Kumar Mallick, Country Head of Bangladesh, ROSSARI BIOTECH LIMITED, Puneet Arora Vice
President, Rossari Biotech Limited, Prashad Pant, South Asia Director (ZDHC Program), Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President of
BGMEA and MD, Giant Group and other distinguished guests were present in the seminar.
ATET has been working for the develop the soft skills of the Textile ATET thinks the salary scale of
progress of the Textile Engineers Engineers which will enable them the textile engineers is not fixed
who are the core of the Textile to give full support to the textile or honorable at all. There should
Industry which include Spinning, industry when they will be in the be a standard salary scale for the
knitting, weaving, dyeing, garment managerial position. ATET wants textile engineers in the industry.
factory, and buying house. to establish a Training Institute to The working hours are not fixed
develop the soft and factory skills and even they have to work on EID
“The community, who are giving of the textile professionals and the holidays.
full support to the textile industry new committee will start within
in Bangladesh to achieve the next 6 months. “The government and concerned
position of 2nd largest garment people should consider these
exporter in the world are not They opined that a number of matters to give minimum facilities
properly honored and well foreign experts are taking away to the textile engineers who are
recognized by the Government of a lot of money illegally without working with full dedication from
Bangladesh till today,” ATET new proper taxation. The government the very beginning of the industry,”
executive committee said this should give a well-focused eye they emphasized.
while exchanging their views with to this area and encourage local
textile engineers to avail these ATET wants the decentralization of
Textile Today.
positions and support the industry the education system so that there
ATET with their strength of the effectively. should not be any discrepancies.
association wants to highlight the Till today there are many
problems of the Textile Engineers “We don’t want to discourage the discrepancies in the government
to the Government of Bangladesh. engagement of the foreign experts jobs for the textile engineers.
fully but we want to reduce the
One of the main objectives of engagement and at the same time ATET will go ahead along with
ATET is to provide collective we want to engage local textile ITET to establish the rights of the
effort to develop the skills of engineers to avail those positions textile engineers of Bangladesh
the Textile Engineers as well as gradually. Local Textile Engineers and to develop the textile sector of
to strengthen the bond among are efficient enough to cover these the same, they added.
the members. They also want to areas effectively,” they opined.
Vice President Vice President Vice President Asst. Secretary General Asst. Secretary General
Engr. Md. Shariful Islam Engr. Md. Mosharaf Hossain Hayder Engr. Md. Shahidul Islam Engr. Md. Sazzad Hossain Engr. Mizanur Rahman (Kajal)
Asst. Organizing Secretary Asst. Organizing Secretary Treasurer Assistant Treasurer Office Secretary
Engr. Uddapon Ray Engr. Md. Golam Mostafa Engr. S.M. Hasibullah Engr. Md. Abdul Kader Engr. Md. Kamrul Islam (Babu)
Asst. Office Secretary Publicity Secretary Asst. Publicity Secretary Edu & Ltr. Affairs Sec. Asst. Edu & Ltr. Affairs Sec. Sports and Cultural Sec.
Engr. Md. Humyun Rashid Engr. Md. Abdus Salam Khan Engr. Md. Saddam Hossain Engr. Arifur Rahman Siddique Engr. Md.Zakir Hossain Engr. Md. Ariful Islam
Asst. Sports and Cultural Sec. Women Affairs Sec. Social Welfare Sec. Asst. Social Welfare Sec. Executive Member Executive Member
Engr. Md. Shamim Hossain Engr. Nur E Jannath Sumi Engr. Md. MonirHoaasin Azad Engr. Md. Helal Uddin Engr. Md. Sahbuddin (Masud) Engr. Md. Imran Kabir (Mithu)
Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member
Engr. Md. Moazzem Hossain Sarker Engr. Md. Kamruzzaman Engr. Md. Obaidul Hoque Engr. Md. Monirul Islam Engr. Md. Zohirul Islam (Rajen) Engr. Md. Haduzzaman
Country Profile
Credit: http://www.paperhi.com
M M Uddin
Nevertheless, it will be a wrong rapid transit systems for six more successful and developed
decision for Indonesia rather metropolitan areas. nation.
than Indonesia must focus
The skilled workforce is still one Industry Minister Hartarto said,
the sustainable technological
of the big challenges of the “It will be key to encourage
development, which will create an
Indonesian RMG industry. So added value and high-technology
alternative market for them.
that the government has taken downstream industries to
To boost up manufacturing the initiative to improve the become a competitive player
activities the government is hoping educational system and syllabus in the new global context. In
a series of major infrastructure to adopt the modern technology. order to turn Indonesia into a
projects, a supportive legal They already achieved the electric competitive nation, it will require
framework, and incentives for powered vehicles, biofuels, and the development and integration
modern technology transfer renewable energy sources to of connectivity, technology,
and development under the make the production sustainable. information, and communication.
‘Marking Indonesia 4.0 strategy’. Immediate fulfill the shortage of This should lead to a more efficient
IEA (Indonesian Employers skilled technical experts to make economy as well as higher quality
Association) said, “Strengthening easier to hire the foreign workers output in the industry sector.”
raw material output was key to domestically, a development
A package of incentives such
improving industrial production, expected to assist in building up
as harmonization of regulations
with a series of construction the skills of the local workforce.
and policies, tax reduces or
projects to help fuel demand”.
The “Making Indonesia 4.0” subsidies to be offered to speed
To fulfill the transport and logistics roadmap, which is led by the up the implementation of certain
demand govt focus on 24 seaports Industry Ministry, is an important technologies, greater collaboration
to be constructed, 3,258 km of element on the national agenda. between the state, private sector
rail lines, 2,650 km of new roads, Therefore, all sides have to support and universities to develop an
15 airports and along with mass this roadmap and contribute to a innovation-based ecosystem.
C o t t o n To d a y
China has recently imposed 25 Bangladesh, allegedly to prevent boll said William R. Bettendorf, Director
percent retaliatory duty on the weevil but that boll weevil has been of Cotton Council International.
import of cotton from the US as eradicated from the US long ago.
“And for that, it is necessary to
part of the ‘trade war’ between the
“The fumigation rule was enacted remove those unnecessary restrictions
two countries. US cotton is going
in the late 1960s reportedly to like fumigation,” he added.
to other countries like South Korea
protect Pakistani cotton against
or Bangladesh in a larger volume “Almost no other cotton importing
competition from US cotton.
as a result of this move. countries including China or
But the rule is irrelevant now
Vietnam have that phytosanitary
But there are some difficulties to as Bangladesh is not a major
requirement,” Bettendorf noted.
export cotton in Bangladesh from cotton producer and depends
the USA. That is why the cotton heavily on imports,” said Sabbir “Long transit time coupled with
sector leaders from the United Ahmed Chowdhury, Program the congestion at the Chittagong
States want Bangladesh to lift Representative of Cotton Council port increases the cost while also
the old fumigation rules on the International (CCI) in Bangladesh. creating much more exposure to
import of US cotton as the process price volatility,” said Faus, who is the
Bangladesh is the largest cotton
imposes an additional cost burden CEO of US cotton giant Omnicotton.
importer in the world, while
on the importers and spinners and “Cotton from the United States is
the United States is the largest
results in increased lead-time. machine picked, it is contamination-
exporter and the US share in the
American Cotton Shippers Bangladeshi cotton market is very free and it can also provide a more
Association (ACSA) President less as the latter is overwhelmingly reliable supply,” he added.
Raymond Faus recently urged dependent on Indian cotton for feeding Tim G North, who is the CEO
Bangladesh to review the unfair its readymade garment industry. of ECOM USA, said that the US
restrictions. The restrictions include cotton is independently classed by
“US cotton, however, can become
phytosanitary requirements. the US Department of Agriculture.
a bigger source of high quality,
Raymond Faus said that only US reliable cotton in Bangladesh if a Therefore, it is more reliable in terms
cotton is subject to fumigation in level playing field can be created,” of quality and characteristics.
A new report from the get worse further in the near term, Global production for the 2018-19
International Cotton Advisory potentially causing major shifts in season is projected at 25.9 million
Committee (ICAC) revealed that global trade patterns. China’s 25 tons, a 4 percent decrease year
China’s tariffs on U.S. cotton percent premium could fast the over year, according to the report.
helped drive international prices USA, the world’s largest exporter, Global consumption, however, is
down from a mid-June season- to seek new markets for its fiber, also forecast to grow 4 percent to
high of $1.02 per pound to 92 while other major exporters 27.5 million tons.
cents per pound in early July, such as Brazil are expected to fill
The cotton area in 2018-19 is
alleviating at around 88 cents a the annulled by increasing their
forecast to decrease in major
pound on strong demand in Asia shipments to China, the world’s
producing countries. India’s land
and Southeast Asia. largest importer.
is seen falling 3 percent to 11.9
Spot prices on U.S. cotton The ICAC report said that global million hectares and U.S. area is
averaged 84.44 cents per pound production has increased 16 expected to be down 5 percent to
for the week ended July 26, percent to 26.87 million tons in 4.25 million hectares. China’s land
according to the U.S. Department 2017-18, with growth from all should remain stable at 3.3 million
of Agriculture (USDA). USDA also major producers, including India, hectares, according to ICAC.
reported that the weekly average China, the U.S., Brazil, Pakistan,
Stocks in China are projected
was down from 85.14 cents a West Africa, Turkey, Australia,
to fall for the fifth consecutive
pound the previous week, but up and Uzbekistan. However, those
year to 7.5 million tons, while
from 66.58 cents a year ago earlier. increases come from expanded
stocks elsewhere are expected to
plantings and favorable weather
Sour trade relations between remain stable at 10.1 million tons,
conditions, as global yields posted a
China and the USA show little according to the report.
marginal 1 percent increase, ICAC said.
signs of improving and could even
Factory Skills
Apparel Marketing is a vast area where many
foreign professionals are serving at this moment
Development in
in Bangladesh or factory owners are doing the
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professionals need to be self-motivated & prepare
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R e t a i l e r s To d a y
The year 2018 will see large-scale Total Retail Sales in India shopping,” added the study.
growth in the Indian e-commerce 2013 - 2018 (in billion U.S. dollars)
In other cities like Bangalore,
sector with increased participation
its population chose to buy
from people across the country.
1500 daily routine products through
The study was conducted by 1244.58
1200 1082.24
e-shopping which will go to 75%
the Associated Chambers of
818.33
941.08 this year for apparel, gift articles,
Commerce and Industry of India 900
635.25
717.73
magazines, home tools, toys,
(ASSOCHAM) and financial 600
jewelry, beauty products and
advisory services provider 300 sporting goods categories.
Resurgent India.
0
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 E-commerce is big business and
“Growing at a rate of about 15
Figure 1: Total retail sales in India 2013 – getting bigger every day. Online
percent and registering a double- 2018 (in billion U.S. dollars). shopping has been embraced by
digit growth figure every year, the
Indians with close to 25-30 million
total retail sales in India is likely to
adults making a purchase via the
rise from $717.73 billion during the
internet in the last year.
calendar year 2014 to $1,244.58
billion in 2018,” said a study. “The year 2018 will see large-scale
ASSOCHAM press release said growth in the Indian e-commerce
“In 2017, about 100 million
citing the study. sector with increased participation
consumers purchased online and
from people across the country.
the number is expected to cross As per the findings of the joint
This industry will continue to drive
120 million by 2020 with the rise of study, “Bangalore has left behind
more employment opportunities
digital natives, better infrastructure all other cities in India shopping
and contribute towards creating
in terms of logistics, broadband online in the year 2017. While
more entrepreneurs through the
and Internet-ready devices to fuel Mumbai ranks second, Delhi ranks
e-commerce marketplace model,”
the demand in e-commerce,” an third in their preference for online
noted the study.
Hohenstein’s new test laboratory of chemical and textile technology “I think the idea, innovation,
has been launched in Bangladesh testing and results analysis for research, and development are
on 28 July by Professor Stefan textile manufacturers, brands, and the prime move of a sustainable
Mecheels. He is the third generation retailers including screening for industry. Therefore, we should
to lead the family-run company. harmful substances, performance tests, develop and design our product.
and quality controls like colorfastness, We need process upgrading,
In the first six months, Hohenstein
pilling, and water retention. functional upgrading, increase
will invest in the construction,
cutting-edge laboratory and Hohenstein operates more than worker efficiency etc.,” said, Engr
high-quality analysis equipment. 30 branches and contact offices Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET
Then it will offer a wide range of worldwide with a workforce of at the launching ceremony.
chemical and textile technology more than 1,000 employees. The Barrister Omar Sadat, President
testing and results analysis for strategy, according to Stefan BGCCI, Michael Schultheisss,
textile manufacturers, brands, Mecheels, Head of the Research Charge d’ Affairs of German
and retailers, including testing for Institute, is to have testing services Embassy Dhaka, Naser Ezaz Bijoy,
harmful substances, performance proximity to the local customers CEO, Standard Chartered Bank
tests, quality controls (colorfastness, while providing German quality. Bangladesh; Dr. Md. Kamruzzaman,
pilling, water tightness, fiber Managing Director, Hohenstein
“In Bangladesh, we are in close
fineness, etc.), and inspections. Laboratories Bangladesh Ltd were
contact with our laboratories in
On the launching ceremony, Germany and Hong Kong,” said delivered a speech at the opening
Hohenstein offered a wide range Stefan Mecheels. ceremony.
and healthcare products are other Other major players in the industry countries.
popular segments in the global are DyStar Group, Kiri Industries
In addition, availability of cheap
textile chemicals market. The Limited, Zschimmer & Schwarz,
labor and growth in number of
rapid growth of textile chemicals Pulcra Chemicals, OMNOVA
R&D centers is directly promoting
in these applications is expected Solutions Inc., The Lubrizol
the growth of apparel industries.
to drive the market owing to a Corporation, BASF SE, CHT/
Less stringent rules and regulations
rise in demand for dyeing, coating BEZEMA Group, Clariant, Transfer
by governments also drive the market.
the fabrics, and the need for Chemicals, Sarex, and Rossari
pre-treatment of textiles. These Biotech Ltd. etc. Difficulties in market growth
applications have the potential Adverse effects of chemicals on
Dominating region in the market
to generate high returns due to the environment and stringent
an expected rise in adoption of Asia-Pacific region is the fastest
environmental regulations are
biodegradable textile chemicals. growing market in the textile
likely to hamper textile chemicals
chemicals industry and it accounts
Home furnishing applications market. These are the major
for more than half of the total
dominated the textile chemicals limitations of utilizing textile
textile chemical market size. In
market in 2015, 2016 and 2017. Its chemicals. However, recent
2017, Asia Pacific constituted a
demand was more than 3,600 kilo innovations, which embed the
key share (63.35%) of the global
tons in 2015. Apparel segment introduction of innovative ideas of
textile chemicals market in terms
accounted for over 25% of global anti-microbial, luxurious, and stain-
of consumption, as the region
revenue in 2015. resistant fabrics, thus allowing
is a major textile manufacturer
chemicals to reach a wider
Increasing usage of specialty globally. China and India
segment of audiences. Numerous
chemicals in emerging application accounted for more than 70%
players are stepping into the textile
segments such as medical, share of the textile chemicals
chemicals market with innovative
industrial, and construction textiles market in the Asia Pacific,
products. Emerging technology
is expected to further boost the according to a report released by
such as the establishment of
market growth in the next eight Transparency Market Research.
sterilized textiles is expected to
years, according to the report
Vietnam, Bangladesh, and increase the competition in the
published by the Grand View
Indonesia are also leading years to come.
Research, Inc.
countries of the markets for
The European Union implemented
Coating and sizing chemicals were textile chemicals consumption, as
the Integrated Pollution Prevention
the largest consumed product these countries were prominent
and Control (IPPC) directive
category with a total worth of exporters of the product in 2016
from January 2008, along with
USD 6,353.5 million in 2015 while and 2017. Bangladesh consumes
Emissions Trading System (ETS)
accounting for just over 30% of the about USD 800 million worth of
and regulation on registration,
global demand in 2015, said the report. dyes and chemicals every year.
evaluation, authorization, and
Printing being the last step and The Grand View Research, Inc.’s restriction of chemicals. Initiatives
more fashion could be bringing at report pointed out that in the Asia like REACH have significantly
the step, the popularity of printed Pacific, textile chemicals industry reduced the demand for textile
fabric is increasing. Hence demand is expected to witness the fastest chemicals in Europe. Various
from the printing industry is to growth and is expected to grow countries such as the Netherlands
increase significantly. at a CAGR of 4.2% from 2016 to and Germany have banned some
2025. Expansion of key textile textile chemicals that pose a
Major players in the textile
manufacturing players in the threat to the environment and
chemical market
region, coupled with increasing human health. Thus, the rise in
The global industry is discreetly domestic consumption of novel environmental concerns and
fragmented with the top five textile products is expected to implementation of stringent
enterprises accounting for over support the region to maintain its environmental regulations,
50% of the total revenue in 2015. dominance over the forecast period. especially in the European Union,
On the other hand, the top three are anticipated to hamper the
Apparels industry dominates the
players accounted for nearly 30% textile chemicals market in the
other segments in this region
share of the market in 2017. Key near future. Control mechanisms
due to increase in demand
players in the textile chemicals in the name of ZDHC and Bluesign
from consumers and growth in
market include Covestro AG, are putting a significant impact on
population especially in India,
Lonsen Inc., Archroma, BASF, Dow the ground.
China, Indonesia, and Thailand
Chemical Company, Bayer AG,
economies. Coating and sizing
Huntsman International LLC and
chemicals hold the major share
Sumitomo Chemicals Co. Ltd.
in product type segment in Asian
Traditional Orizio modular frame, renovated in its functionality, robustness and aesthetics, with the new, integrated control panel
which allows the fruition of new technologies and completes the machine's control, the needle selection & following functions:
• Diagnostic indications of warning signals
• Selections and setting of the reset types
• Operating management, through inverter, for the search of the optimal rotation speed
• Feed-by-feed visualization of the machines threading & of each colour unit of the striping device
• Conduction of the needle-by-needle selection piezo-ceramic actuators
• Conduction of the monostables electro-mechanic finger for the yarn fingers & colours selection
• Usb connection for quick drawing upload & software update
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Innovation
How will RMG makers cope with the upcoming wage hike?
New wage board is now our core challenge to sustain in the industry. Day
by day production cost is increasing and product price is decreasing. For
the small entrepreneurs, it will be very difficult to survive if the wage board
declaration comes without the governments’ help in cash incentives, low
interest of bank loan etc. Recently banks are not supporting the SME
industry, which is also a worrying thing to consider.
Training on
Sustainable Use of
Resources
in Textile Industry
Date: 5-6 October, 2018
(Friday-Saturday)
Time: 9.00 AM - 5.00 PM
Contact
+88 02 55093682 | +88 01734211085
http://training.textiletoday.com.bd
Main Content
Energy, GHG, Air Emission Management
(Energy Balance)
Steam Management
(Steam and Condensate Balance)
Water, Wastewater
(Water Balance) The program is one of the 5 training modules of
'Certificate on Sustainability Management'
Efficient use of textile material program
(Material Balance)
Jointly Organized by
Te x t i l e W o r l d
“India is strong in
producing and exporting
textile products from
synthetic yarn, a material
fabric that is being
used widely in the world
garment industry with
high expansion prospects
in the future.”
-Anil Rajvanshi, Chairman of the Synthetic and
Figure: Vietnam and India will boost cooperation in the garment and textile sector to
raise bilateral trade to 15 billion USD by 2020. Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council of India
Smart Myanmar, a four-year in a tropical climate saves energy measurements, key performance
project (2016-2019) funded by the by reducing the amount of fuel indicators can be set and
European Union (EU), has advised needed to heat the water. improvements can be targeted
garment factories in Myanmar over time via new processes and
The third recommendation is to
to reduce consumption of fuel. technologies.
consider various biomass options.
Smart Myanmar actively supports
The EU-funded project’s fourth For wastewater treatment,
and promotes sustainable
recommendation for boiler fuel the project said, “All process
consumption and production
and emissions is to consider wastewater must be effectively
(SCP) of garments “Made in
fabric scrap boilers. Special care treated to safe levels. This can be
Myanmar” – a concept with an
should be exercised to make sure done via biological or chemical
emphasis on resource efficiency
processes, but a suitable treatment
and social responsibility.
system must be in place. Although
Following on the successful It is also practical and regulatory enforcement in this
implementation of activities during necessary to make area was inadequate in years
the first 3 years, Smart Myanmar certain the steam system past, the Myanmar government is
has launched a new 4-year project is effectively designed beginning a stricter enforcement
phase which will expand and process and factories violating
and does not suffer from
accelerate some of the previous Myanmar’s emissions guidelines
activities – such as assistance to
any broken steam traps
and requirements for effluent
factories on social compliance and or separators. Among treatment are likely to face
human resources management – ten newly built factories large fines and possible forced
as well as introducing entirely new surveyed in 2017, a shutdown.”
activities related to promoting majority had mistaken in Exploring and adopting many
sustainable production and
the design and set-up of of the above recommendations
transparency in procurement
their steam systems, most benefits the local environment,
practices in Myanmar.
resulting in a substantial reducing greenhouse gas
According to the project, it is emissions and ultimately also
waste of steam.
necessary to invest in steam benefits factories by reducing
condensate recovery, a system costs and often helps additionally
that actually saves the company plastics are not being burned, but by boosting their Higg Index
money in the medium term; generally, some boiler technology scores.
however, companies are hesitant is specifically designed to safely Roland Kobia, Ambassador of
about initial investment. burn fabric scraps. the European Union to Myanmar
It is also practical and necessary The project has also said that “Garment has quickly
to make certain the steam system recommended multiple ways emerged as the star sector
is effectively designed and does to address over-extraction and in Myanmar’s economy. The
not suffer from any broken steam pollution of water. It said factories growth numbers of the sector
traps or separators. Among ten should outline water reduction are impressive, not least thanks
newly built factories surveyed priorities in the company’s to the trade preferences granted
in 2017, a majority had mistaken environmental management policy. by the EU. Exporting to Europe
in the design and set-up of their creates an incentive for Myanmar
steam systems, most resulting in a Factories must meter their water
companies and authorities to step
substantial waste of steam. usage and, hence, measure
up their quality and management.
it. Meters should be used to
Smart Myanmar has also This is a huge opportunity for
determine overall usage, but also
recommended factories to economic development provided
for water-intensive processes,
consider options for the solar that the benefits are shared among
such as with washing and
thermal assist. The thermal gain all and that the environment can
dyeing machines. Based on such
be preserved.”
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