Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Models: M2 100
M2 106
M2 106V
M2 112
M2 112V
Daimler Trucks North America LLC distributes the following major service publications in paper and electronic
(via ServicePro®) formats.
Workshop/Service Workshop/service manuals contain service and repair information for all vehicle
Manual systems and components, except for major components such as engines, trans-
missions, and rear axles. Each workshop/service manual section is divided into
subjects that can include general information, principles of operation, removal,
disassembly, assembly, installation, specifications, and troubleshooting.
Maintenance Manual Maintenance manuals contain routine maintenance procedures and intervals for
vehicle components and systems. They have information such as lubrication
procedures and tables, fluid replacement procedures, fluid capacities, specifica-
tions, and procedures for adjustments and for checking the tightness of fasten-
ers. Maintenance manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Driver’s/Operator’s Driver’s/operator’s manuals contain information needed to enhance the driver’s
Manual understanding of how to operate and care for the vehicle and its components.
Each manual contains a chapter that covers pretrip and post-trip inspections,
and daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance of vehicle components. Driver’s/
operator’s manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Service Bulletins Service bulletins provide the latest service tips, field repairs, product improve-
ments, and related information. Some service bulletins are updates to informa-
tion in the workshop/service manual. These bulletins take precedence over
workshop/service manual information, until the latter is updated; at that time, the
bulletin is usually canceled. The service bulletins manual is available only to
dealers. When doing service work on a vehicle system or part, check for a valid
service bulletin for the latest information on the subject.
IMPORTANT: Before using a particular service bulletin, check the current
service bulletin validity list to be sure the bulletin is valid.
Parts Technical Bulletins Parts technical bulletins provide information on parts. These bulletins contain
lists of parts and BOMs needed to do replacement and upgrade procedures.
Web-based repair, service, and parts documentation can be accessed using the following applications on the
AccessFreightliner.com website.
ServicePro ServicePro® provides Web-based access to the most up-to-date versions of the
publications listed above. In addition, the Service Solutions feature provides di-
agnostic assistance with Symptoms Search, by connecting to a large knowledge
base gathered from technicians and service personnel. Search results for both
documents and service solutions can be narrowed by initially entering vehicle
identification data.
PartsPro PartsPro® is an electronic parts catalog system, showing the specified vehicle’s
build record.
EZWiring EZWiring™ makes Freightliner, Sterling, Western Star, Thomas Built Buses, and
Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation products’ wiring drawings and floating
pin lists available online for viewing and printing. EZWiring can also be ac-
cessed from within PartsPro.
Warranty-related service information available on the AccessFreightliner.com website includes the following
documentation.
Recall Campaigns Recall campaigns cover situations that involve service work or replacement of
parts in connection with a recall notice. These campaigns pertain to matters of
vehicle safety. All recall campaigns are distributed to dealers; customers receive
notices that apply to their vehicles.
Field Service Campaigns Field service campaigns are concerned with non-safety-related service work or
replacement of parts. All field service campaigns are distributed to dealers; cus-
tomers receive notices that apply to their vehicles.
A B C
Fastener Replacement
Fastener Tightening
D E F G
12/21/2001 f020132
A. Section Title
B. Section Number (made up of the Group Number—first two digits, followed by a sequence number—last two digits)
C. Subject Title
D. Manual Title
E. Release (Supplement) Date
F. Subject Number
G. Subject Page Number
The following is a list of definitions for abbreviations and symbols used in Freightliner publications.
A . . . . . . . . . . amperes BBC . . . . . . . bumper-to-back-of-cab CWS . . . . . . . collision warning system
AAVA . . . . . . auxiliary air valve assembly BHM . . . . . . . bulkhead module DC . . . . . . . . . direct current
ABS . . . . . . . antilock braking system BOC . . . . . . . back-of-cab DCDL . . . . . . driver-controlled differential
ABS . . . . . . . acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene BOM . . . . . . . bill of material lock
A/C . . . . . . . . air conditioner BTDC . . . . . . before top dead center DDA . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Allison (obs)
AC . . . . . . . . . alternating current Btu(s) . . . . . British thermal unit(s) DDC . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Corporation
acc . . . . . . . . accessories C .......... common (terminal) DDDL . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
ACM . . . . . . . aftertreatment control module CAC . . . . . . . charge air cooler DDE . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Engines
ACPU . . . . . air conditioning protection unit CAN . . . . . . . controller area network DDEC . . . . . Detroit Diesel Electronic
(engine) Control
ADLO . . . . . auto-disengagement lockout CARB . . . . . California Air Resources
Board DDR . . . . . . . diagnostic data reader
AGM . . . . . . . absorbed glass mat
CAT . . . . . . . Caterpillar DDU . . . . . . . driver display unit
AGS . . . . . . . automated gear shift
CB . . . . . . . . . circuit breaker def . . . . . . . . defrost
AG2 . . . . . . . Aluminum Generation 2
CB . . . . . . . . . citizens’ band DEF . . . . . . . diesel exhaust fluid
a.m. . . . . . . . ante meridiem (midnight to
noon) CBE . . . . . . . cab behind engine DFI . . . . . . . . direct fuel injection
AM . . . . . . . . amplitude modulation CCA . . . . . . . cold cranking amperes DGPS . . . . . differential global positioning
system
amp(s) . . . . ampere(s) CD-ROM . . compact-disc/read-only
memory dia. . . . . . . . . diameter
AMT . . . . . . . automated mechanical
transmission CDTC . . . . . . constant discharge DIAG . . . . . . diagnosis
AMU . . . . . . . air management unit temperature control DIP . . . . . . . . dual inline package (switch)
ANSI . . . . . . American National Standards CEL . . . . . . . check-engine light DIU . . . . . . . . driver interface unit
Institute CFC . . . . . . . chlorofluorocarbons DLA . . . . . . . datalink adaptor
API . . . . . . . . American Petroleum Institute (refrigerant-12) DLM . . . . . . . datalink monitor
API . . . . . . . . application programming cfm . . . . . . . . cubic feet per minute DLU . . . . . . . data logging unit
interface CFR . . . . . . . Code of Federal Regulations DMM . . . . . . digital multimeter
ARI . . . . . . . . Air Conditioning and CGI . . . . . . . . clean gas induction DOC . . . . . . . diesel oxidation catalyst
Refrigeration Institute CGW . . . . . . central gateway DOT . . . . . . . Department of Transportation
ASA . . . . . . . American Standards CHM . . . . . . . chassis module
Association DPF . . . . . . . diesel particulate filter
CIP . . . . . . . . cold inflation pressure DRL . . . . . . . daytime running lights
ASF . . . . . . . American Steel Foundries
CLS . . . . . . . coolant level sensor DRM . . . . . . . dryer reservoir module
ASR . . . . . . . automatic spin regulator
cm . . . . . . . . . centimeters DSM . . . . . . . district service manager
assy. . . . . . . assembly
cm3 . . . . . . . . cubic centimeters DTC . . . . . . . diagnostic trouble code
ASTM . . . . . American Society for Testing
and Materials CMVSS . . . . Canadian Motor Vehicle DTC . . . . . . . discharge temperature control
Safety Standard
ATC . . . . . . . automatic temperature control DTNA . . . . . . Daimler Trucks North America
Co. . . . . . . . . company
ATC . . . . . . . automatic traction control DVOM . . . . . digital volt/ohm meter
COE . . . . . . . cab over engine
ATC . . . . . . . automatic transmission ea. . . . . . . . . . each
control Corp. . . . . . . corporation
EBS . . . . . . . electronic braking system
ATD . . . . . . . aftertreatment device CPC . . . . . . . common powertrain controller
ECA . . . . . . . electric clutch actuator
ATF . . . . . . . . automatic transmission fluid CPU . . . . . . . central processing unit
ECAP . . . . . . electronic control analyzer
ATS . . . . . . . aftertreatment system CRT . . . . . . . cathode ray tube programmer
attn . . . . . . . . attention cSt . . . . . . . . centistokes (unit of ECAS . . . . . . electronically controlled air
measurement for describing suspension
aux. . . . . . . . auxiliary the viscosity of general
av . . . . . . . . . avoirdupois (British weight liquids) ECI . . . . . . . . electronically controlled
system) injection
cu ft . . . . . . . cubic feet
AWD . . . . . . . all-wheel drive ECL . . . . . . . engine coolant level
cu in . . . . . . cubic inches
AWG . . . . . . American wire gauge ECM . . . . . . . electronic control module
CUM . . . . . . . Cummins
AWS . . . . . . . American Welding Society ECT . . . . . . . engine coolant temperature
CVSA . . . . . . Commercial Vehicle Safety
BAT . . . . . . . battery Alliance ECU . . . . . . . electronic control unit
EDM . . . . . . . electronic data monitor FMVSS . . . . Federal Motor Vehicle Safety IFI . . . . . . . . . Industrial Fasteners Institute
EEPROM . . electrically erasable Standard IFS . . . . . . . . independent front suspension
programmable read-only FRP . . . . . . . fiberglass reinforced plastic IGN . . . . . . . . ignition
memory FSA . . . . . . . field service authorization ILB . . . . . . . . intelligent lightbar
EFG . . . . . . . electric fuel gauge FSM . . . . . . . fleet service manager ILO . . . . . . . . in lieu of (in the place of)
EFPA . . . . . . electronic foot pedal ft . . . . . . . . . . feet
assembly in . . . . . . . . . . inches
ft3 . . . . . . . . . cubic feet in3 . . . . . . . . . cubic inches
EGR . . . . . . . exhaust gas recirculation
ft3/min . . . . . cubic feet per minute Inc. . . . . . . . . incorporated
ELC . . . . . . . extended-life coolant
FTL . . . . . . . . Freightliner inH2O . . . . . inches of water
EMC . . . . . . . electromagnetic compatibility
F.U.E.L. . . . . fuel usage efficiency level inHg . . . . . . . inches of mercury
EMI . . . . . . . . electromagnetic interference
g . . . . . . . . . . grams I/O . . . . . . . . . input/output
EOA . . . . . . . electric over air
gal . . . . . . . . . gallons IP . . . . . . . . . . instrument panel
EP . . . . . . . . . extreme pressure (describes
an antiwear agent added to GAWR . . . . . gross axle weight rating ISO . . . . . . . . International Organization for
some lubricants) GHG . . . . . . . greenhouse gas Standardization
EPA . . . . . . . Environmental Protection GL . . . . . . . . . gear lubricant IVS . . . . . . . . idle validation switch
Agency GND . . . . . . . ground k . . . . . . . . . . . kilo (1000)
EPS . . . . . . . engine position sensor gpm . . . . . . . gallons per minute kg . . . . . . . . . kilograms
ESC . . . . . . . electronic stability control GPS . . . . . . . global positioning system km . . . . . . . . . kilometers
ESC . . . . . . . enhanced stability control GVWR . . . . . gross vehicle weight rating km/h . . . . . . . kilometers per hour
ESD . . . . . . . electrostatic discharge HBED . . . . . hard-braking event data kPa . . . . . . . . kilopascals
ESS . . . . . . . engine syncro shift HCM . . . . . . . hybrid control module kW . . . . . . . . kilowatts
(transmission)
HCOE . . . . . high cab over engine L . . . . . . . . . . liters
etc. . . . . . . . . et cetera (and so forth)
HCU . . . . . . . hydraulic control unit lb . . . . . . . . . . pounds
ETEC . . . . . . electronic truck engine control
HD . . . . . . . . . heavy-duty LBCU . . . . . . lightbar control unit
EUI . . . . . . . . electronic unit (fuel) injectors
HDU . . . . . . . hybrid drive unit lbf·ft . . . . . . . pounds force feet
EVA . . . . . . . electronic vibration analyzer
HEPA . . . . . . high-efficiency particulate air lbf·in . . . . . . pounds force inches
EXM . . . . . . . (chassis) expansion module (filter) LCD . . . . . . . liquid crystal display
E85 . . . . . . . . 85% ethanol fuel HEST . . . . . . high exhaust system LCOE . . . . . . low cab over engine
FAS . . . . . . . Freightliner air suspension temperature
LED . . . . . . . light-emitting diode
FCCC . . . . . . Freightliner Custom Chassis HEV . . . . . . . hybrid electric vehicle
Corporation LH . . . . . . . . . left-hand
HFC . . . . . . . hydrogenated fluorocarbons
FET . . . . . . . . field effect transistor (refrigerant-134a) LH DR . . . . . left-hand drive
Fig. . . . . . . . . figure hp . . . . . . . . . horsepower LHK . . . . . . . liters per hundred kilometers
fl oz . . . . . . . fluid ounces hp . . . . . . . . . high pressure LHS . . . . . . . low-hydrogen steel
FLA . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements HRC . . . . . . . Rockwell "C" hardness LIN . . . . . . . . Local Interconnect Network
Freightliner COE hr(s) . . . . . . . hour(s) LLC . . . . . . . limited liability company
FLB . . . . . . . enhanced Freightliner FLA HSA . . . . . . . hill start aid L/min . . . . . . liters per minute
COE LNG . . . . . . . liquefied natural gas
HSD . . . . . . . high-side driver
FLC . . . . . . . steel-cab Freightliner 112 LPG . . . . . . . liquefied petroleum gas
Conventional htr. . . . . . . . . heater
HVAC . . . . . . heating, ventilating, and air LPR . . . . . . . low pressure reservoir
FLD . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements
Freightliner 112/120 conditioning LSD . . . . . . . low-side driver
aluminum-cab Conventional HVLP . . . . . . high velocity, low pressure LVD . . . . . . . low-voltage disconnect
FLR . . . . . . . forward-looking radar H/W . . . . . . . hardware m .......... meters
FM . . . . . . . . . frequency modulation Hz . . . . . . . . . hertz max. . . . . . . . maximum
FMCSA . . . . Federal Motor Carrier Safety IAD . . . . . . . . interaxle differential M-B . . . . . . . . Mercedes-Benz
Administration ICS . . . . . . . . integrated child seat MCM . . . . . . motor control module
FMEA . . . . . failure mode effects analysis ICU . . . . . . . . instrumentation control unit MESA . . . . . Mining Enforcement Safety
FMI . . . . . . . . failure mode indicator i.d. . . . . . . . . . inside diameter Act
FMSI . . . . . . Friction Materials Standards ID . . . . . . . . . . identification mfr. . . . . . . . . manufacturer
Institute mi . . . . . . . . . miles
Vehicle Receipt
Prior to signing for vehicle delivery from a transporter
company, the dealer is responsible for checking for
transporter-related shortages or damages, and noting
these discrepancies on the transporter’s delivery re-
ceipt.
The dealer is also responsible for ensuring that the
vehicle was built according to the Truck Sales Order/
Invoice.
Refer to Section 3 of the Freightliner LLC Warranty
Manual for details.
Vehicle Storage
There may be times when a vehicle is stored for long
periods before customer delivery. To protect all ve-
hicles from deterioration and weather, they must be
properly maintained. Adequate protection and stor-
age of new vehicles is the responsibility of the
dealer.
Claims arising from loss and damage to improp-
erly stored vehicles will not be reimbursed.
See Section 3 of the Freightliner LLC Warranty
Manual for instructions on storage of new vehicles.
Pre-Delivery Information
All pre-delivery inspections and services must be
performed at an authorized Freightliner LLC facility,
assigned to fully qualified service personnel and re-
corded on the "New Vehicle Pre-Delivery Inspection"
form.
Refer to Section 3 of the Freightliner LLC Warranty
Manual for details.
It is recommended the pre-delivery inspection be per-
formed within 30 days of vehicle receipt.
nut. See Fig. 5. Class 8 hexnuts are always used stretched slightly. This stretching (tensioning) results
with class 8.8 bolts; class 10 hexnuts with class 10.9 in a preload that reduces fatigue of the fasteners.
bolts. The torque values given in the tables in Specifica-
tions, 400 have been calculated to provide enough
clamping force on the parts being fastened, and the
correct tensioning of the bolt to maintain the clamp-
ing force.
Use of a torque wrench to tighten fasteners will help
prevent overtensioning them. Overtensioning causes
permanent stretching of the fasteners, which can re-
1 2 sult in breakage of the parts or fasteners.
When torquing a fastener, typically 80 to 90 percent
of the turning force is used to overcome friction; only
10 to 20 percent is used to stretch the capscrew or
bolt. About 40 to 50 percent of the turning force is
needed to overcome the friction between the under-
side of the capscrew head or nut and the washer.
10/19/93 3 4 f310224a Another 30 to 40 percent is needed to overcome the
NOTE: Grade 2 bolts have no grade marking; grade 2 friction between the threads of the capscrew and the
bolts are rarely used by Freightliner.These grade mark- threaded hole, or the friction between the threads of
ings are used on plain hex-type and flanged bolts the nut and bolt.
(capscrews). In addition to the grade markings, the The amount of torque required to tighten a fastener
bolt head must also carry the manufacturer’s trade-
mark or identification.
is reduced when the amount of friction is reduced. If
a fastener is dry (unlubricated) and plain (unplated),
1. Grade 2 3. Grade 8
2. Grade 5 4. Grade 8.2
the amount of friction is high. If a fastener is wax-
coated or oiled, or has a zinc phosphate coating or
Fig. 2, Bolt Grades
cadmium plating, the amount of friction is reduced.
Each of these coatings and combinations of coatings
has a different effect. Using zinc-plated hardened
Frame Fasteners flatwashers under the bolt (capscrew) head and nut
reduces the amount of friction. Dirt or other foreign
The standard fasteners used to assemble the vehicle material on the threads or clamping surfaces of the
frame and to attach most components to the vehicle fastener or clamped part also changes the amount of
frame are threaded lockbolts (Spin Hucks). These friction.
fasteners are covered in Section 31.00.
Even though each different condition affects the
For some other components attached to the frame, amount of friction, a different torque value cannot be
grade 8 and 8.2 phosphate-and oil-coated hexhead given for each different condition. To ensure they are
bolts and grade C cadmium-plated and wax-coated always torqued accurately, Freightliner recommends
prevailing torque locknuts are used. The prevailing that all fasteners be lubricated with oil (unless spe-
torque locknuts have distorted sections of threads to cifically instructed to install them dry), then torqued to
provide torque retention. For attachments where the values for lubricated- and plated-thread fasten-
clearance is minimal, low-profile hexhead bolts and ers. When locking compound or anti-seize compound
grade C prevailing torque locknuts are used. See is recommended for a fastener, the compound acts
Fig. 6. as a lubricant, and oil is not needed.
Tightening Fasteners
When a capscrew is tightened to its torque value in a
threaded hole, or a nut is tightened to its torque
value on a bolt, the shank of the capscrew or bolt is
1 2 3
4 5 6
07/27/95 f310466
NOTE: Grade 2 (S.A.E.) and grade A (I.F.I.) nuts have no identification marks or notches; they are rarely used by Freight-
liner. Grade B (I.F.I.) nuts have three identification marks at 120 degrees, or 6 notches. Grade C (I.F.I.) nuts have three
identification marks at 60 degrees, or 12 notches. Grade G (I.F.I.) flanged nuts have six identification marks as shown;
each identification mark may be a dot, line, pair of dots or lines, or any other symbol at the manufacturer’s option.
1. S.A.E. Grade 2 or I.F.I. Grade A Nut (strength compatible with grade 2 bolt.)
2. S.A.E. Grade 5 Nut (strength compatible with grade 5 bolt.)
3. I.F.I. Grade B Nut (strength compatible with grade 5 bolt.)
4. S.A.E. Grade 8 Nut (strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
5. I.F.I. Grade C Nut (strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
6. I.F.I. Grade G Nut (flanged locknut; strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
8.8
8.8
1
1
10.9
10.9 2
05/03/91 f310227a
2
10/19/93 f310226a 1. Class 8 Nut 2. Class 10 Nut
NOTE: In addition to the class markings, the bolt head
must also carry the manufacturer’s trademark or identifi- Fig. 5, Nut Classes
cation.
1. Class 8.8 2. Class 10.9
3
10/19/93 f310006a
1. Grade 8 Hexhead Bolt
2. Grade 8 Low-Profile Hexhead Bolt
3. Grade C Prevailing Torque Locknut
TORQUE VALUES FOR U.S. CUSTOMARY THREAD FASTENERS WITH LUBRICATED * OR PLATED THREADS †
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread
Diameter– f230002 f230003 f230004 f230005
f230006 f230007 f230008 f230009
Pitch
Grade 5 Grade 5 Grade 8 Grade 8 Grade 5 Grade B Grade 8 Grade G
Bolt or B Nut or 8.2 Bolt or C Nut Bolt Nut or 8.2 Bolt Nut
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
1/4–20 7 (9) 8 (11) 6 (8) 10 (14)
1/4–28 8 (11) 9 (12) 7 (9) 12 (16)
5/16–18 15 (20) 16 (22) 13 (18) 21 (28)
5/16–24 16 (22) 17 (23) 14 (19) 23 (31)
3/8–16 26 (35) 28 (38) 23 (31) 37 (50)
3/8–24 30 (41) 32 (43) 25 (34) 42 (57)
7/16–14 42 (57) 45 (61) 35 (47) 60 (81)
7/16–20 47 (64) 50 (68) 40 (54) 66 (89)
1/2–13 64 (87) 68 (92) 55 (75) 91 (123)
1/2–20 72 (98) 77 (104) 65 (88) 102 (138)
9/16–12 92 (125) 98 (133) 80 (108) 130 (176)
9/16–18 103 (140) 110 (149) 90 (122) 146 (198)
5/8–11 128 (173) 136 (184) 110 (149) 180 (244)
5/8–18 145 (197) 154 (209) 130 (176) 204 (277)
3/4–10 226 (306) 241 (327) 200 (271) 320 (434)
3/4–16 253 (343) 269 (365) 220 (298) 357 (484)
7/8–9 365 (495) 388 (526) 320 (434) 515 (698)
7/8–14 402 (545) 427 (579) 350 (475) 568 (770)
1–8 — 582 (789) — —
1–12 — 637 (863) — —
1–14 — 652 (884) — —
* Freightliner recommends that all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
† Use these torque values if either the bolt or nut is lubricated or plated (zinc-phosphate conversion-coated, cadmium-plated, or waxed).
Table 1, Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners with Lubricated or Plated Threads
TORQUE VALUES FOR U.S. CUSTOMARY THREAD FASTENERS WITH DRY (UNLUBRICATED) * PLAIN
(UNPLATED) THREADS †
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread
Diameter– f230002 f230003 f230004 f230005 f230008 f230009
Pitch
Grade 5 Grade 5 Grade 8 Grade 8 Grade 8 Grade G
Bolt or B Nut or 8.2 Bolt or C Nut or 8.2 Bolt Nut
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
1/4–20 8 (11) 10 (14) —
1/4–28 9 (12) 12 (16) —
5/16–18 15 (20) 22 (30) 22 (30)
5/16–24 17 (23) 25 (34) —
3/8–16 28 (38) 40 (54) 40 (54)
3/8–24 31 (42) 45 (61) —
7/16–14 45 (61) 65 (88) 65 (88)
7/16–20 50 (68) 70 (95) —
1/2–13 70 (95) 95 (129) 95 (129)
1/2–20 75 (102) 110 (149) —
9/16–12 100 (136) 140 (190) 140 (190)
9/16–18 110 (149) 155 (210) —
5/8–11 135 (183) 190 (258) 190 (258)
5/8–18 155 (210) 215 (292) —
3/4–10 240 (325) 340 (461) 340 (461)
3/4–16 270 (366) 380 (515) —
7/8–9 385 (522) 540 (732) —
7/8–14 425 (576) 600 (813) —
1–8 580 (786) 820 (1112) —
1–12 635 (861) 900 (1220) —
1–14 650 (881) 915 (1241) —
* Threads may have residual oil, but will be dry to the touch.
† Male and female threads (bolt and nut) must both be unlubricated and unplated; if either is plated or lubricated, use Table 1. Freightliner recommends that
all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
Table 2, Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners with Dry (Unlubricated) Plain (Unplated) Threads
8.8 8 10.9 10
Thread
f230010 f230011 f230012 f230013
Diameter–Pitch
Class 8.8 Bolt Class 8 Nut Class 10.9 Bolt Class 10 Nut
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
M6 5 (7) 7 (9)
M8 12 (16) 17 (23)
M8 x 1 13 (18) 18 (24)
M10 24 (33) 34 (46)
M10 x 1.25 27 (37) 38 (52)
M12 42 (57) 60 (81)
M12 x 1.5 43 (58) 62 (84)
M14 66 (89) 95 (129)
M14 x 1.5 72 (98) 103 (140)
M16 103 (140) 148 (201)
M16 x 1.5 110 (149) 157 (213)
M18 147 (199) 203 (275)
M18 x 1.5 165 (224) 229 (310)
M20 208 (282) 288 (390)
M20 x 1.5 231 (313) 320 (434)
M22 283 (384) 392 (531)
M22 x 1.5 315 (427) 431 (584)
M24 360 (488) 498 (675)
M24 x 2 392 (531) 542 (735)
M27 527 (715) 729 (988)
M27 x 2 569 (771) 788 (1068)
M30 715 (969) 990 (1342)
M30 x 2 792 (1074) 1096 (1486)
* Freightliner recommends that all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
† Use these torque values if either the bolt or nut is lubricated or plated (zinc-phosphate conversion-coated,
cadmium-plated, or waxed).
Table 3, Torque Values for Metric Thread Fasteners With Lubricated Or Plated
Threads
Code of Federal Regulations Title 49, Part 565 speci- about 2 inches (50 mm) from the top of the web or
fies that all vehicles sold in the U.S. be assigned a on the top flange of the left frame rail at frame sta-
17-character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). tion 30.
Using a combination of letters and numerals, the VIN
defines the manufacturer, model, and major charac- For all vehicles, a check digit (9th character) is deter-
teristics of the vehicle. See Table 1 for the character mined by assignment of weighted values to the other
positions of a typical Freightliner VIN, 16 characters. These weighted values are processed
1FUPABAV11PA12345. through a series of equations designed to check va-
lidity of the VIN and to detect VIN alteration.
The VIN can be found on the Vehicle Specification
Decal (see the driver’s manual for decal location) NOTE: Always specify the VIN when ordering
and stamped on the left frame rail over the front axle parts.
General Description
Three mounts support the engine and transmission,
holding a total of almost 1800 lb (816 kg). Two of the
engine mounts support the rear of the engine and
transmission assembly. The third supports the front
of the engine/transmission assembly.
Each of the rear engine mounts is bolted to the in-
side of the frame rail near the flywheel housing.
These mounts support legs which are bolted to the
flywheel housing. Caterpillar engines use a rear en-
gine leg that rests flat on the mount.
The front engine mount is an underslung crossmem-
ber under the front of the engine. It supports a
bracket that is bolted to the front of the engine.
To isolate the engine and transmission from road
shock, and to isolate the vehicle frame from engine
vibration, the engine mounts are sandwiched be-
tween rubber isolator cushions (sometimes called
restriction pads). Steel snubbers protect the cushions
from wearing on the engine support brackets, and a
single bolt runs through the mount, cushions, and
snubbers to hold the assembly together and hold the
engine on the mount.
WARNING CAUTION
The jack used to lift the engine must be capable Do not lubricate the components with oil, grease,
of safely lifting and supporting two metric tons. or silicone lubricants; they will deteriorate the
Once the engine mount is disconnected, do not rubber isolators.
get under the engine until it is securely sup-
ported on engine stands. An unsecured engine 7. Install the upper isolator in the engine mount. If
applicable, place the snubber on the isolator.
may fall, causing personal injury or death, and
component damage.
2. Disconnect the right rear engine mount from the
WARNING
right rear frame mount. The jack used to lower the engine must be ca-
2.1 Place a jack under the rear of the engine pable of safely lifting and supporting two metric
and raise the jack until it’s braced against tons. Once the engine is removed from the en-
the engine. gine stands, do not get under the engine until it
is securely installed on the engine mount. An un-
2.2 Remove the bolt from the right rear en- secured engine may fall, causing personal injury
gine mount. Save the fasteners, rubber or death, and component damage.
isolator cushions, and snubbers.
8. Secure the engine to the frame mount.
2.3 Lift the engine slightly to take its weight
off the right rear engine mount. Place en- 8.1 If not in place, set a jack under the rear
gine stands under the engine to keep it of the engine and raise the jack until it is
off the engine mount. braced against the engine.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the mount to the 8.2 Lift the engine slightly to remove the en-
frame rail. Remove the mount from the frame gine stands. Remove the stands, and
rail. carefully lower the engine onto the engine
mount.
If necessary, remove the four bolts that secure
the right engine leg to the flywheel housing, and 8.3 Holding the lower isolator and snubber in
remove the engine leg. place, install the bolt in the right rear en-
gine mount, and secure it with the nut
4. Place a new engine mount against the inside of and hardened washer. Tighten the nut
the frame rail, and secure it with bolts, washers, 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
and nuts. Tighten the nuts 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m).
5. If removed, install the engine leg on the right WARNING
side of the flywheel housing. Apply thread lock
compound to the bracket mounting bolts and The jack used to lift the engine must be capable
tighten the bolts as follows: of safely lifting and supporting two metric tons.
Once the engine mount is disconnected, do not
For Caterpillar 3126 and C-7 engines: tighten the get under the engine until it is securely sup-
bolts 100 lbf·ft (136 N·m). ported on engine stands. An unsecured engine
For Caterpillar C-9, C-10 and C-12 engines: may fall, causing personal injury or death, and
tighten the bolts 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m). component damage.
For MBE900 engines: tighten the bolts 92 lbf·ft 9. Disconnect the left rear engine mount from the
(125 N·m). left rear frame mount.
CAUTION
Do not lubricate the components with oil, grease,
or silicone lubricants; they will deteriorate the
rubber isolators.
14. Install the upper isolator in the engine mount. If
applicable, place the snubber on the isolator.
2. Disconnect the front engine mount from the 7. Secure the front engine mount to the frame
frame crossmember. crossmember.
2.1 Attach a chain to the front engine lifting 7.1 Attach a chain to the front engine lifting
hook(s), and position a lifting device to lift hook(s). Attach the chain to a lifting de-
the engine. Attach the chain to the lifting vice and remove any slack.
device, and raise the chain to remove any 7.2 Lift the engine slightly to remove the en-
slack. gine stands. Remove the stands, and
2.2 Remove the bolt(s) from the front engine carefully lower the engine onto the engine
mount. Save the fasteners, rubber isolator mount.
cushions, and snubber(s). 7.3 Holding the lower isolator(s) and tube(s)
in place, install the bolt(s) in the front en-
NOTE: In order to raise the front of the en-
gine mount and secure it with the nut(s)
gine, you may have to loosen the bolts that and washer(s). Tighten the nuts 136 lbf·ft
run through the rear engine mounts. (184 N·m).
2.3 Lift the engine slightly to take its weight NOTE: If you loosened the bolts that run
off the front engine mount. Place engine through the rear engine mounts, tighten
stands under the engine to keep it off the
engine mount.
those bolts 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m) for all en-
gines.
3. If necessary, remove the bolts which secure the
engine support bracket to the front of the engine. 7.4 Remove the lifting chain from the engine
Remove the bracket from the engine. lifting hooks.
4. If necessary, install a new engine support 8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
bracket on the front of the engine. Secure per
manufacturer specifications.
5. Inspect the engine mount rubber isolators for
wear or damage and replace them if necessary.
CAUTION
Do not lubricate the components with oil, grease,
or silicone lubricants; they will deteriorate the
rubber isolators.
WARNING
The jack used to lower the engine must be ca-
pable of safely lifting and supporting two metric
tons. Once the engine is removed from the en-
gine stands, do not get under the engine until it
is securely installed on the engine mount. An un-
secured engine may fall, causing personal injury
or death, and component damage.
9. Secure the engine to the engine mount.
9.1 If not in place, set a jack under the rear
of the engine and raise the jack until it is
braced against the engine.
9.2 Lift the engine slightly to remove the en-
gine stands. Remove the stands, and
carefully lower the engine onto the engine
mount.
9.3 Holding the lower isolator in place, install
the bolt in the left rear engine mount, and
secure it with the nut and hardened
washer. Tighten the nut 241 lbf·ft (327
N·m).
10. Remove the jack from under the engine, and re-
move the chocks from the tires.
CAUTION
Do not lubricate the new components with oil,
grease, or silicone lubricants; they will deterio-
rate the rubber isolators.
4. Install the upper isolator(s) in the engine mount.
WARNING
The lifting device and chain used to lower the
engine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting two metric tons. Once the engine is re-
Replacement DANGER
NOTE: The rear engine mounts for EPA07 en- Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
gines are designed to last for the life of the ve- tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
hicle, and should not normally need replacing. injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
The isolators are bonded to the brackets and after the engine has been shut down.
cannot be replaced separately. To avoid potentially serious burns or material
If the rear engine mounts need replacing due to damage:
damage, or if you are removing and installing • Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe-
the engine, use this procedure. cially careful when opening it to expose the
DPF.
In the past, substituting softer isolators from the
MBE4000 engine was a way to sometimes rem- • Wear appropriate protective gear.
edy engine vibration problems with other en- • Be careful not to place the ATD where flam-
gines. This will not work with the EPA07 en- mable gases or other combustible materials
gines, because all the engine isolators now may come into contact with hot interior parts.
have the same durometer hardness. 13. Make sure the aftertreatment device (ATD) is
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, cool, then remove it from the vehicle.
and chock the tires.
2. Drain the air tanks. CAUTION
3. Disconnect all the cables from the batteries. The ATD assembly weighs from 125 to 150
Cover them, using dry rags and tie straps. pounds (57 to 68 kg) and must be protected from
impact or sharp jolts. Dropping the ATD, or sub-
4. Remove the battery MEGA Fuse Block from the
jecting it to jarring impact can crack the diesel
left-side frame rail, underneath the cab. The
particulate filter (DPF) inside, which is built on a
mounting nuts are inboard of the frame rail.
ceramic substrate. If that happens, the DPF is
5. Open the hood. ruined and must be replaced.
6. If present, remove the two tow hooks from the A secure support is necessary to remove and in-
right frame rail. stall the ATD safely. The ATD must be held se-
curely to protect it from falling, or hitting hard
7. Remove the rain tray.
against something else.
7.1 Mark, then remove the wiper arms. The horizontal ATD lifting device (TLZ00785) is
7.2 Disconnect any hoses or drains from the designed for the job on a horizontal ATD. Vertical
bottom of the rain tray. ATDs require a shop hoist secured to the lifting
ears on top.
7.3 Remove the fasteners that hold the rain
tray to the frontwall. 13.1 Put a transmission jack (or equivalent)
under the ATD, and strap the ATD to the
7.4 Remove the rain tray from the vehicle. jack.
8. Remove the right and left quarter fenders and 13.2 Disconnect the five sensors from the ATD.
the inner splash shields.
9. Remove the air intake canister assembly. WARNING
10. Remove the mounting bracket for the air intake
Wear adequate eye protection, such as safety
canister.
goggles or a face shield, when working with the
11. Remove the turbocharger heat shield. ATD mounting bands. The mounting bands are
12. Disconnect the air lines from the primary air tank,
then remove the tank from the vehicle.
5
6
2
2 2
7
4
3
2
06/26/2006 f012134
NOTE: The engine mount is not visible in this view.
1. Cab Mounting Bracket
2. Front Spring-Shackle Hanger
3. Frame Rail
Principles of Operation Over time, ash collects in the ATS and needs to be
removed through cleaning at specific intervals. For
ATS maintenance and repair information, see the
EPA 2007 engine manufacturer’s service literature.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) man-
dated that all engines built after December 31, 2006 EPA 2010
meet lower exhaust emissions levels:
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) man-
• 1.1 grams per brake horsepower hour (g/bhp- dated that all engines built after December 31, 2009
hr) of nitrogen oxides (NOx) must reduce the level of emissions exhausted by the
• 0.01 g/bhp-hr of particulate matter (PM) engine to 0.2 grams per brake horsepower hour (g/
bhp-hr) of nitrogen oxides (NOx).
To meet the EPA07 requirements, most engine
manufacturers developed an aftertreatment system To meet the EPA10 requirements, Daimler Trucks
(ATS). The ATS varies according to engine and ve- North America is using technology known as Selec-
hicle configuration, but instead of a muffler, an ATS tive Catalytic Reduction (SCR) in the exhaust after-
has an aftertreatment device (ATD) that outwardly treatment system (ATS). The ATS will rely on existing
resembles a muffler. EPA07 technology, which includes an aftertreatment
device (ATD), with the addition of SCR. See Fig. 2.
Inside the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and The SCR process requires the introduction of diesel
Mercedes-Benz engines, the exhaust first passes exhaust fluid (DEF) into the exhaust stream.
over the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC), which uses
a chemical process to break down pollutants into The ATS is always chassis-mounted, with several
less harmful components. The exhaust then passes different installation options available to fit various
through the diesel particulate filter (DPF), which traps vehicle configurations. ATS exhaust piping is made of
soot particles. See Fig. 1. stainless steel. The ATS includes all piping and
equipment between the turbocharger outlet and the
The DPF core in all ATDs is comprised of ceramic end of the exhaust pipe, including the aftertreatment
channels that are blocked off at alternate ends to device (ATD), SCR catalyst, DEF tank, DEF tank
force the exhaust through the porous walls. header unit, DEF pump, DEF metering unit, and the
As soot accumulates in the DPF, it periodically needs DEF, coolant, and air lines that run between each
to be converted to its basic parts: carbon dioxide, component.
water, and ash. The conversion takes place through All EPA10-compliant DTNA vehicles require the use
an event in the ATD referred to as regeneration of ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) fuel with a sulfur
(regen). If the exhaust temperature is high enough, content of 15 parts per million (ppm) for low emis-
the trapped soot is reduced to ash in a process sions and long life of the diesel particulate filter
called passive regen, which occurs as the vehicle is (DPF) in the ATD. In addition, DTNA vehicles require
driven normally. the use of CJ-4 engine oils with less than 1% ash.
Passive regen, however, cannot always keep the Inside the ATD, the exhaust first passes over the die-
DPF clean, so the ATD must also periodically un- sel oxidation catalyst (DOC), where combustion
dergo active regen. During active regen, extra fuel is gases are chemically broken down into water and
injected into the exhaust stream to superheat and carbon dioxide. The exhaust then passes through the
reduce the soot trapped in the DPF to ash. Active DPF, a honeycomb-like filter that traps solid soot par-
regen happens only when the vehicle is moving ticles. The soot particles trapped in the DPF are re-
above a certain speed, as determined by the engine duced to ash during regeneration (regen).
manufacturer.
If the exhaust temperature is high enough, a process
Both active and passive regen happen automatically, called passive regen occurs as the vehicle is driven
without driver input. When operating conditions do normally. Passive regen, however, cannot always
not allow for active or passive regen, the vehicle may keep the DPF clean, so the ATD must also periodi-
require a driver-activated parked regen, which takes cally undergo active regen. During active regen,
20 to 60 minutes, depending on ambient conditions. extra fuel is injected into the exhaust stream to su-
perheat and reduce the soot trapped in the DPF to
5
3
1
03/26/2009 9 8 f040783
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 7. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
(EGR) Cooler 5. Turbocharger 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
2. EGR Valve 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 9. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)
3. Intake Throttle Valve
ash. Active regen happens only when the vehicle is at specific intervals. For DPF maintenance intervals
moving above a certain speed, as determined by the and repair information, see the engine manufactur-
engine manufacturer. er’s service literature.
Both active and passive regen happen automatically, After exhaust gases leave the ATD, a controlled
without driver input. When operating conditions do quantity of diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) is injected into
not allow for active or passive regen, the vehicle may the exhaust stream. In the presence of heat, DEF is
require a driver-activated parked regen, which takes converted to ammonia gas, which reacts with NOx in
20 to 60 minutes, depending on ambient conditions. the selective catalyst chamber to yield nitrogen and
water vapor, which exit through the tailpipe.
Despite the regen process, ash collects in the DPF
over time and needs to be removed through cleaning
10
5
3
9 11
2
1
7 8
13
12
10/15/2009 f040787
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 5. Turbocharger 10. DEF Tank
(EGR) Cooler 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 11. DEF Injector
2. EGR Valve 7. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) 12. Mixing Tube
3. Intake Throttle Valve 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 13. SCR Catalyst Chamber
4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 9. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
EPA10-compliant DTNA vehicles are equipped with Aftertreatment System (ATS) The entire exhaust
an additional tank to carry the DEF necessary for the system from the turbocharger to the exhaust stack or
SCR process. DEF is colorless, non-toxic, and biode- tail pipe.
gradable. DEF consumption will vary depending on Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) A colorless, non-toxic,
ambient conditions and vehicle application. and biodegradable fluid used in the SCR process.
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) A flow-through
Service Literature Coverage device that enhances the oxidation of hydrocarbons
in the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and
Engine service procedures in this manual are limited Mercedes-Benz engines.
to components installed by Daimler Trucks North
America. See the following sections for information Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) A component in the
on EPA07/10-compliant parts and systems installed ATD that captures particulate matter from the ex-
by Daimler Trucks North America: haust gas, preventing discharge from the tailpipe.
• Section 01.01, Engine Mounts Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) A process
whereby exhaust is recirculated into the air intake
• Section 30.00, Electronic Throttle Control system, creating lower cylinder temperatures.
• Section 49.01, Aftertreatment System, EPA07 Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) Air pollutants composed of
• Section 49.02, Aftertreatment System, EPA10 nitrogen and oxygen in various forms that contribute
to the formation of smog.
• Section 49.03, Diesel Exhaust Fluid System,
EPA10 Particulate Matter (PM) Soot particles formed by
incomplete combustion of fuel that contribute to at-
• Section 83.00, Cab Heater and Air Condi- mospheric pollution.
tioner, Valeo
Regeneration (Regen) A process that occurs inside
• Section 88.00, Hood the ATD whereby accumulated soot is superheated
Complete engine coverage including engine adjust- and burned to ash, carbon dioxide, and water.
ment, preventive maintenance, and engine repair are Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) A vehicle
covered in each engine manufacturer’s service litera- emissions control technology to reduce diesel engine
ture: emissions for passenger cars, and light and heavy-
• Cummins: www.cummins.com duty trucks.
• Detroit Diesel: www.detroitdiesel.com ULSD (Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel) Fuel A clean burn-
ing diesel fuel containing a maximum of 15-ppm sul-
• Mercedes-Benz: www.detroitdiesel.com
fur. To meet EPA requirements, all highway diesel
Periodic inspection of the ATS is required. For in- fuel sold in the U.S. must be ULSD.
structions, see the Business Class M2 Maintenance
Manual.
For driver pre- and post-trip inspection information,
see the Business Class M2 Driver’s Manual.
Definition of Terms
Refer to the following terms for a better understand-
ing of EPA07/10 engines.
Ash Unburnable solids that remain after regenera-
tion in the ATD.
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) A device that re-
moves pollutants from exhaust gas after the gas
leaves the combustion chamber.
Inspection
1. Inspect the belt contact surfaces for chips, flak-
ing, cracks, discoloration, and other damage.
See Fig. 1.
2. Inspect the bearings in the idler pulleys, and ac-
cessories, by rotating the pulleys to look for
bearing slop, or choppy feeling bearings.
3. Inspect the springs on the belt tensioner. If the
springs are damaged, change the belt tensioner
following the engine manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Inspect the pulleys for damage. If the pulleys are
damaged, change both the damaged pulley and
the belt following the engine manufacturer’s in-
structions. See Fig. 2.
5. Check the belt allignment on all idler pulleys. If
the alignment is incorrect as shown in Fig. 3,
and pulley wear is visible, replace the pulley and
bracket following the engine manufacturer’s in-
structions.
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8
01/18/2010 f151148
1. Abrasion 4. Cracking 7. Misalignment
2. Chunk-out 5. Pilling 8. Gravel Penetration
3. Improper Install 6. Uneven Rib Wear
01/19/2010 f151149
B
01/22/2010 f151150
A. Incorrect Belt-Alignment Area
B. Correct Belt-Alignment Area
Detroit Diesel engines are equipped with two serpen- 3. Raise the hood.
tine poly-V drive belts. The rear belt (closest to the 4. Locate the automatic belt tensioner assembly, on
engine block surface) drives the alternator, the A/C the left (passenger) side of the engine, as you
compressor, and the water pump. The front belt are facing it. Note the location of the square 1/2-
drives the engine fan. See Fig. 1. Both drive belts inch drive holes, and the round holes for the
are kept at the correct tension with pulleys and a locking bolts. See Fig. 2.
dual automatic belt-tensioner assembly.
NOTICE
When replacing the drive belts for the DD engine,
it is crucial to follow the correct procedure for
releasing and locking the belt tensioners. The
belt tensioners must be released and locked
separately, and in the correct sequence, or the
assembly may be damaged. 4
3
5
4
6
2 2
1
1
01/07/2011 f012189
1. Front Drive Belt 5. Fan Clutch
2. Rear Drive Belt 6. Water Pump
3. AC Compressor 01/29/2010 f012184
4. Spring Loaded 1. Front Round Hole for 10-mm Locking Bolt
Tensioner 2. Front Square1/2-inch Drive Hole
3. Rear Square 1/2-inch Drive Hole
Fig. 1, DD13/15/16 Drive Belt Routing 4. Rear Round Hole for 10-mm Locking Bolt
03/14/2008 f012160
5
7
1
1
05/24/2011 f012201
1. Spring Loaded 4. Alternator Pulley
6 Tensioner 5. Water Pump
2. AC Compressor 6. Fan Clutch
01/24/2011 f012192 3. Drive Belt 7. Crank Shaft Pulley
1. Spring Loaded 4. Fan Clutch
Tensioner 5. Drive Belt Fig. 2, Cummins ISB Drive Belt Routing
2. Alternator Pulley 6. Crank Shaft Pulley
3. AC Compressor 7. Smoothly release the pressure from the breaker
bar.
Fig. 1, Cummins ISC/ISL Drive Belt Routing
NOTICE
Replacement
Never allow the tensioner to slam back against
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down the stop, or damage may occur.
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the 8. Start the engine, standing clear of the belt and
tires. accessories. Check the belt tracking on all pul-
2. Disconnect the batteries at the negative termi- leys to ensure correct belt operation.
nals. 9. Close the hood and connect the batteries.
3. Raise the hood.
4. Locate the drive-belt-tensioner assembly on the
left (passenger) side of the engine, as you are
facing it. Insert a 1/2-inch-drive ratchet or 1/2-
inch breaker bar into the pivot point on the small
end of the tensioner. See Fig. 3. Push downward
on the breaker bar, rotating the tensioner
counter-clockwise until you feel resistance.
5. Holding the tensioner released, remove the drive
belt.
6. Install a new drive belt, ensuring it is routed cor-
rectly, and centered on all the pulleys.
01/26/2011 f012193
6. Drain the radiator. 10.4 Disconnect the left and right radiator
struts from the radiator side channels
6.1 Place a suitable container under the left
side of the radiator. 10.5 Remove the fasteners holding the fan
shroud to the radiator, and move the
6.2 Remove the surge tank cap. shroud back against the engine.
6.3 Loosen the draincock at the bottom of the 10.6 Remove the lower radiator mounting nuts.
radiator.
10.7 Attach a lifting chain to the top of the ra-
After the coolant has drained, tighten the diator, and using a suitable lifting device,
draincock firmly. remove the radiator and charge air cooler
7. If so equipped, disconnect the transmission oil from the vehicle.
cooler from the bottom of the radiator. 10.8 Remove the fan shroud.
If the transmission oil cooler is separate from the 11. Disconnect and remove the left-side radiator
radiator: place a suitable container under it, then struts from the front wall.
disconnect the hoses. Cover the hoses to keep
out dirt. Remove the fasteners holding the trans- 12. Disconnect and remove the right-side radiator
mission oil cooler to the bottom of the radiator. strut from the air filter housing bracket.
Remove the transmission oil cooler. 13. Disconnect the hose between the air filter hous-
If the transmission oil cooler is integral with the ing and the engine, then remove the air filter
radiator: place a suitable container under the housing from its bracket.
hose connections at the bottom of the radiator.
03/28/95 f010920
04/14/95 f200302
Fig. 2, Lifting Chain Installed
32.3 With the engine lifting eyes connected by Fig. 3, Front Engine Mount Fasteners
chain to the crane, raise the crane
enough to tighten the chains, but not WARNING
enough to lift the front of the vehicle.
32.4 With the engine securely supported by The crane and lifting chains used to install the
the crane and lifting chains, disconnect engine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
the rear engine legs from the engine porting 2 metric tons. Once the engine is re-
mounts on the frame rails. moved from the engine stands, do not get under
the engine until it is securely supported on the
On each engine leg, remove the nut from engine mounts. An unsecured engine may fall,
the bolt that runs down through the en- causing personal injury or death, and component
gine leg, rubber isolators, and engine damage.
mount. Save the fasteners and isolators.
2. Install the engine and the transmission in the ve-
32.5 Remove the nuts from the bolts that fas- hicle.
ten the front engine support bracket to
the underslung crossmember. See Fig. 3. 2.1 Attach the chain to the existing lifting
eyes at the front and the rear of the en-
32.6 Using the crane and a transmission jack, gine.
lift the engine and pull it forward.
2.2 With the two engine lifting eyes con-
32.7 Once the engine and transmission are nected by chain to the crane, and sup-
clear of the vehicle, place the engine on porting the transmission with a jack, lift
an engine stand. the engine and transmission and position
them in the vehicle.
33. Remove the transmission from the engine. See
Group 26 for instructions. 2.3 Connect the engine to the rear engine
mounts, and tighten each bolt that runs
Installation down through the engine leg, rubber iso-
lators, and engine mount 241 lbf·ft (327
N·m).
1. Install the transmission onto the engine. See
Group 26 for instructions. 2.4 Place the lower isolators under the under-
slung crossmember and the front engine
support bracket, and secure the front en-
gine mount with nuts and washers. 14. Install the serpentine drive belt onto the engine.
Tighten the nuts 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
15. Install the radiator.
2.5 Once the engine and transmission are
securely installed in the vehicle, remove 15.1 Set the radiator shroud back against the
the lifting chains. engine.
3. If applicable, install the transmission mounting 15.2 Attach a lifting chain to the top of the ra-
fasteners. Tighten 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m). diator, then attach the chain to a lifting
crane.
4. If equipped with an automatic transmission, con-
nect the wiring harness to it. 15.3 Lift the radiator/charge air cooler assem-
bly, and position it on the radiator mounts.
If equipped with a standard transmission, install
the shift tower. For instructions, see Group 26. 15.4 Install the radiator/charge air cooler onto
the frame crossmember mounts. For in-
5. Connect the driveline. structions, refer to Group 20.
5.1 Connect the driveline to the transmission. 15.5 Install the fan shroud onto the radiator.
For instructions, refer to Group 41.
15.6 Connect the upper and lower radiator
5.2 Connect the driveline midship bearing hoses.
bracket. For instructions, refer to
Group 41. 15.7 As previously marked, connect the two
hoses to the top of the surge tank.
6. If so equipped, connect the forward end of the
clutch rod, and remove any tie straps that hold 15.8 Connect the hose at the bottom of the
the rod to the engine. surge tank to the engine block.
7. Install the exhaust pipe. 15.9 Install the condenser onto the front of the
radiator and charge air cooler.
7.1 Under the engine, connect the exhaust
pipe to the saddle clamp mounted on the 15.10 Install the two left-side and one right-side
transmission. radiator struts.
7.2 Install the forward end of the exhaust 16. Route the refrigerant lines between the compres-
pipe to the rear of the turbocharger. sor and the condenser, and secure the lines with
Tighten the V-band clamp 85 lbf·in (940 clamps and stand-off brackets.
N·cm). 17. Install the air-intake filter housing onto its
8. If so equipped, connect the air line to the fan bracket. For instructions, see Group 09.
clutch. 18. If not already done, connect the hose between
9. Connect the fuel delivery line. the air-intake filter housing and the engine.
10. Install the power steering pump onto the engine. 19. Install the charge air cooler hoses.
11. As previously marked, connect all the engine and 20. If so equipped, install the transmission oil cooler.
ECM wiring. If the transmission oil cooler is separate from the
12. Connect the heater hoses.
radiator: install the fasteners holding the trans-
mission oil cooler to the bottom of the radiator.
12.1 Connect the heater return hose to the Connect the hoses.
water pump
If the transmission oil cooler is integral with the
12.2 Connect the heater supply hose to the radiator: connect the hoses to the bottom of the
rear of the engine block. radiator.
13. Install the refrigerant compressor onto the en- 21. Fill the radiator with coolant. Use a 50/50
gine. For instructions, refer to Group 83. antifreeze-water mixture.
Replacement
1. Turn off the engine, apply the brakes, and chock
the tires.
2. Open the hood.
WARNING
Do not operate the engine with any component of
the air intake system removed. Serious physical 1
injury can occur if the turbocharger impeller is
touched when it is rotating.
NOTICE
All air intake components and connections must 2
be air- and water-tight. Dirt or dust entering the
engine can cause internal engine damage. Most
of the dirt and dust particles are silicates, which
fuse into abrasive glass-like particles when ex- 3
posed to engine combustion. These particles can
grind piston rings, pistons, and cylinder liners.
3. Remove the hose clamps that attach the air in-
take duct assembly to the air cleaner and the
turbocharger. If the duct assembly consists of
more than one piece, remove the clamps that
secure the elbows. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. 06/19/2006 f090436
1. Air Cleaner-to-Elbow Seal
4. Remove the air intake duct assembly. 2. Elbow
5. Determine which new air intake duct assembly to 3. Elbow-to-Duct Seal
install. Use PartsPro® to determine specific part
numbers. Fig. 1, Typical Elbow-to-Duct Configuration (MBE906
engine shown)
• Vehicles built before November 26, 2003
with MBE900 or C7 engines require the 7.1 Apply P-80® Rubber Lubricant Emulsion to
installation of smaller clamps and rubber the overlapping areas of all seals, elbows,
seals on the plastic duct connections. and tubes, and the air cleaner housing
outlet and turbocharger inlet.
• Vehicles built between November 26, 2003
and November 1, 2004 with MBE900 or C7 NOTE: P-80 Emulsion eases installation of
engines require the installation of rubber tight-fitting rubber and plastic parts by reduc-
seals only. ing the force needed for assembly. Once
• Vehicles built after November 1, 2004 have assembly is complete, P-80 Emulsion dries
the correct clamps and seals already in- and the part returns to its original condition.
stalled. Use P-80 Emulsion when a thin film of lubri-
6. Inspect the new air intake duct assembly for de- cant is desired.
bris that may have collected during shipping. Re- 7.2 Install all parts so that each connection
move any debris or dirt before installation. overlaps at least 1.18 inch (30 mm). The
7. Install the new air intake duct assembly between rubber seal, duct, and clamp of each con-
the air cleaner and turbocharger. nection should be fitted as shown in
Fig. 3.
3
1
03/26/2009 f090437
2
1. Duct 3. Seal
2. Clamp 4. Air Cleaner Housing
Replacement
IMPORTANT: Do not modify, or use modified air
cleaners or duct components.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake.
2. Chock the tires and open the hood.
1
NOTICE
All air intake components and connections must
be air- and water-tight. Dirt or dust entering the 2
engine can cause internal engine damage. Most
of the dirt and dust particles are silicates, which
fuse into abrasive glass-like particles when ex-
posed to engine combustion. These particles can
grind piston rings, pistons, and cylinder liners.
Do not operate the engine with the air cleaner
element or any air intake component removed.
3. Check the air cleaner housing for damage, and
check all ducts and connections for leakage. Ad-
just or replace parts as necessary.
4. Remove the capscrews that secure the primary 07/01/2011 f090489
air cleaner element in the air cleaner housing. 1. Primary Air Cleaner Element
2. Stainless Steel Safety Screen or Safety Air Cleaner
Remove the primary air cleaner element. See Element
Fig. 1.
NOTE: The vehicle is equipped with either a Fig. 1, Air Cleaner Elements
stainless steel safety screen or a safety air
9. Using capscrews, install the air cleaner element
cleaner element. Replace the safety screen or in the air cleaner housing. Tighten the capscrews
the safety element with every third primary air 25 to 35 lbf·in (280 to 400 N·cm).
cleaner element replacement.
10. Check all connections for tightness.
5. Remove the safety screen or element from the
air cleaner and wipe the inside of the air cleaner
with a clean, damp cloth. Check the housing and
sealing surfaces for damage, dust, or foreign
matter that could cause sealing problems. Clean
surfaces or replace parts as necessary.
6. Inspect the safety screen or element for damage.
Replace if necessary, or according to the recom-
mended maintenance interval (see the NOTE
before step 5).
7. Install the safety screen or element in the air
cleaner housing.
8. Inspect the new primary air cleaner element for
damage or holes.
Removal Installation
IMPORTANT: Do not modify, or use modified air 1. Check the air cleaner housing for damage, and
cleaners or duct components. check all ducts and connections for leakage. Ad-
just or replace parts as necessary.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. 2. Using three capscrews, install the air cleaner
housing on the mounting bracket.
2. Chock the tires and open the hood.
3. Install the air intake duct on the air cleaner outlet
port so that it overlaps by at least 1 inch (25
NOTICE mm). P80® Rubber Lubricant Emulsion, or
All air intake components and connections must equivalent rubber lubricant, can be used to ease
be air- and water-tight. Dirt or dust entering the assembly.
engine can cause internal engine damage. Most NOTE: To locate your local International Prod-
of the dirt and dust particles are silicates, which ucts Corporation distributor, call 1-609-386-877
fuse into abrasive glass-like particles when ex- or visit www.ipcol.com.
posed to engine combustion. These particles can
grind piston rings, pistons, and cylinder liners. 4. Check the duct for any interference or contact
Do not operate the engine with the air cleaner with adjacent components. Loosen and adust as
element or any air intake component removed. necessary.
3. Remove the air restriction indicator or sensor, if 5. Tighten the hose clamp at the air cleaner outlet
equipped. 40 lbf·in (450 N·cm).
4. Loosen the hose clamp that attaches the air in- 6. Install the air restriction indicator on the air
take duct to the air cleaner outlet port, then pull cleaner, if equipped.
the duct off the port. See Fig. 1.
2 3
10/04/2001 f090361a
1. Mounting Bracket 3. Air Cleaner
2. Capscrew
04/08/2005 f090431
General Information
The charge air cooler (CAC) is attached to the front
of the radiator. The function of the CAC is to cool the
hot, compressed air that exits the turbocharger. The
CAC reduces the temperature of this air to the en-
gine manufacturers’ specified air intake temperature
before the air reaches the engine intake manifold.
The lower temperature reduces exhaust emissions,
improves fuel economy, and increases horsepower.
Installation
1. Using nuts, attach the right side of the CAC to
the mounting bracket, then attach the left side of
the CAC to the mounting bracket. After all four
nuts are installed, tighten them 25 to 31 lbf·ft (34
to 42 N·m).
2. Install the flex tubes between the CAC and the
CAC inlet and outlet air pipes. Place the constant
tension hose clamps over the flex tubes.
3. Turn the constant tension hose clamps so their
tightening screws are under the hoses or facing
inboard. Tighten the clamps 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February
26, 2007, have modified constant tension
clamps that adjust to changes in diameter at the
hose connection. When installing a new clamp
or reinstalling a modified clamp, tighten the fas-
tener 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not retighten the
clamp unless the measured torque drops below
50 lbf·in (560 N·cm), at which time it should be
tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).
4. Using four Torx fasteners, attach the grille to the
hood.
10 9
8
2
1 1
3
3
4
4 3
3 5
5
7
09/12/2001 f090277a
1. Safety Chain 5. Safety Ring 8. Test Plug with Adapter
2. Test Plug 6. CAC Air Inlet 9. Test Valve/Gauge Assembly
3. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 7. CAC Air Outlet 10. Air Chuck
4. Flex Tube
denly release debris at high speed, possibly re- 5. Pull the flex tubes and constant tension hose
sulting in eye injury or other serious personal clamps rearward until the hoses cover about
injury. 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) of the CAC air inlet and air
outlet piping.
3.1 Open the test valve, then slowly open the
pressure regulator valve and allow the 6. Turn the clamps so their tightening screws are
CAC to gradually fill with air to the start under the hoses or facing inboard. Tighten the
pressure. See Table 1. screws 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
3.2 Close the test valve and watch the gauge IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February
for 15 seconds. If there is more than the 26, 2007, have modified constant tension
specified drop in the CAC pressure in 15 clamps that adjust to changes in diameter at the
seconds, replace the CAC. See Table 1. hose connection. When installing a new clamp
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to repair the or reinstalling a modified clamp, tighten the fas-
CAC. tener 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not retighten the
clamp unless the measured torque drops below
3.3 When testing is completed, reduce the 50 lbf·in (560 N·cm), at which time it should be
pressure on the pressure regulator valve tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).
to bleed air from the CAC.
4. Remove the test equipment (and the additional
constant tension hose clamps) from the flex
tubes.
Flushing
If the charge air cooler (CAC) is suspected of being
contaminated, flush the CAC.
1. Apply the brakes and chock the tires.
2. Remove the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
3. Set the CAC in a horizontal position with the inlet
and outlet ports facing up.
IMPORTANT: Use only naphtha or mineral spir-
its to clean the charge air cooler. Do not use
caustic solutions such as those that are com-
monly used in radiator shops. Do not use steam
or high-temperature cleaning operations. Caus-
tic solutions, steam, and high-temperature
cleaning operations will damage the RTV that
seals the charge air cooler tubes to the head-
ers, which may result in leaking.
4. Pour a filtered naphtha or mineral spirits solution
into the CAC until it is 40 percent full.
5. Cap the inlet and outlet ports on the CAC.
6. Rock the CAC back and forth so that the solvent
travels from one tank, through the tubes, to the
other tank and back. Repeat this process ten
times.
NOTE: Do not leave the solvent in the CAC for
more than 10 minutes.
7. Remove the caps from the inlet and outlet ports.
8. Drain the CAC and properly dispose of the sol-
vent.
9. Leave the caps off and allow the residual solvent
to evaporate.
10. Install the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
Restriction Test
After flushing the charge air cooler (CAC) because of
turbocharger or engine damage, test the pressure
drop across the CAC and air piping as follows:
1. Remove the pipe plug from the tapped hole in
the turbocharger air outlet elbow.
Remove the pipe plug or the nylon tube and at-
omizer for the ether start system if so equipped,
or the air line to the turbocharger air-pressure
gauge if so equipped from the tapped hole in the
rear-left side of the intake manifold.
Install an air pressure gauge in each tapped
hole.
2. Operate the engine at rated speed and horse-
power. There is no need to operate the engine at
its peak torque rating. While operating the en-
gine, read both air pressure gauges.
Because of air turbulence at the turbocharger
outlet, subtract 0.3 inHg (1 kPa) from the pres-
sure measurement taken at this point to make it
a true reading.
From that reading, subtract the reading taken at
the intake manifold. This is the pressure drop of
the CAC.
If the pressure drop is more than 4 inHg (14
kPa), flush or replace the CAC as needed.
General Information 4
3 5
The Tu-Flo 550 and 750 air compressors are two-
cylinder, single stage, reciprocating compressors. 2
The Tu-Flo 550 air compressor has a rated displace-
ment of 13.2 cubic feet (4 cubic meters) per minute 6
at 1250 rpm. The Tu-Flo 750 air compressor has a
rated displacement of 16.5 cubic feet (5 cubic 1
7
meters) per minute at 1250 rpm.
The compressor consists of two major subassem-
blies, the cylinder head and the crankcase.
The cylinder head is an iron casting that houses the
inlet, discharge, and unloader valving. The cylinder
head contains the air inlet port and has both top and
side air discharge ports. There are three water cool-
ant ports on the cylinder head. Governor mounting
surfaces are provided at both the front and rear of
the cylinder head. The cylinder head is mounted on
the crankcase and is secured by six capscrews. 01/30/2002 f130114
The crankcase houses the cylinder bores, pistons, 1. Governor Mounting Pad
crankshaft and main bearings, and provides the 2. Water Inlet Port
flange or base mounting surface. See Fig. 1 and 3. Air Discharge
Fig. 2. 4. Cylinder Head
5. Water Outlet Port
6. Air Inlet
Operation 7. Crankcase
4 8
3
5
7
2
6
6
5
9
1 4
7
3
10
1
01/30/2002 f130115
1. Governor Mounting Pad
2. Water Inlet Port 02/05/2002 f130117
3. Air Discharge 1. Crankshaft
4. Cylinder Head 2. Connecting Rod
5. Water Outlet Port 3. Piston Ring
6. Air Inlet 4. Crankcase
7. Crankcase 5. Discharge Valve Seat
6. Discharge Valve
Fig. 2, Tu-Flo 750 Air Compressor 7. Discharge Valve Stop
8. Unloader Cover
9. Discharge Valve Spring
10. Piston
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and 2
open the hood.
2. Drain the air system. 1
3. Clean all the fittings and hose connections on
the air compressor, power steering pump, and
the supply and pressure lines on the power
steering gear until they are free of dirt.
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see
Section 20.01, Subject 100.
08/13/2001 f130112
5. Loosen the constant torque hose clamps at both
ends of the charge air cooler outlet air piping. 1. Air Compressor 2. Oil Manifold
Remove the piping to access the air compressor.
Fig. 1, Oil Manifold
6. Remove the pressure line on the power steering
gear. 15. Remove the two capscrews that attach the air
compressor to the mounting bracket at the aft
7. Remove the radiator support rods to access the end of the air compressor. Remove the two cap-
air compressor. screws that attach the mounting bracket to the
engine and remove the mounting bracket. See
NOTE: On vehicles with combined air dryers Fig. 2.
and air reservoir modules, the air governor is
mounted on the air reservoir module not the air
compressor.
8. If the air governor is mounted on the compres-
sor, remove it and the air governor gasket. Dis-
1
card the gasket.
9. Remove the pressure line on the power steering 2
pump and allow the power steering fluid to drain.
After the fluid has drained, disconnect the other 1
end of the pressure line and remove it. Plug the
line and fittings to keep out dirt.
10. Remove the supply line from the power steering
pump and plug the line and fitting.
11. Remove the capscrews that attach the power 1
steering pump to the air compressor and remove 09/12/2001 f130113
the steering pump. Remove and discard the
1. Capscrew 2. Mounting Bracket
steering pump gasket.
12. Remove the cushion clamp from the air com- Fig. 2, Air Compressor Mounting Bracket
pressor. 16. Support the air compressor and remove the two
13. Marking their locations and positions, disconnect capscrews that attach the air compressor to the
all air, coolant, and oil lines attached to the air engine. Remove the air compressor and the gas-
compressor. Plug the lines and fittings. ket.
14. Remove the oil manifold that is attached to the 17. Inspect the condition of the air compressor gas-
engine. See Fig. 1. ket and replace the gasket if necessary.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Excessive Oil Passage
Problem—Excessive Oil Passage
Possible Cause Remedy
Restricted air intake. Check engine or compressor air cleaner and replace if necessary. Check
compressor air inlet for kinks, excessive bends, and be certain inlet lines have
the minimum specified inside diameter. Recommended minimum inlet line
inside diameter is 5/8 inch (16 mm). Recommended maximum air inlet
restriction is 25 inches of water.
Restricted oil return to engine. Oil return to the engine should not be restricted in any way. Check for
excessive bends, kinks, and restrictions in the oil return line. Minimum
recommended oil return line size is 5/8-inch (16 mm) outside diameter or
equivalent inside diameter of 1/2 inch (13 mm). The return line must
constantly descend from the compressor to the engine crankcase. Make
certain oil drain passages in the compressor and mating engine surfaces are
unobstructed and aligned. Special care must be taken when sealants are
used with, or instead of, gaskets.
Poorly filtered air inlet. Check for a damaged or dirty air filter on the engine or compressor. Check for
leaking or damaged compressor air intake components such as induction line,
fittings, gaskets, and filter bodies. The compressor intake should not be
connected to any part of the exhaust gas recirculation (E.G.R.) system on the
engine.
Insufficient compressor cooling For air-cooled portions of the compressor:
(compressor runs hot).
• Remove accumulated grease and dirt from the cooling fins. Replace
components found damaged.
• Check for damaged cooling fins. Replace compressor if found dam-
aged.
For a water-cooled compressor or water-cooled portions of the compressor:
• Check for proper coolant line sizes. Minimum recommended line out-
side diameter is 1/2 inch (13 mm).
• Check the coolant flow through the compressor. Minimum allowable
flow is 2.5 gallons per minute at engine governed speed. If low coolant
flow is detected, inspect the coolant lines and fittings for accumulated
rust scale, kinks, and restrictions.
• Water temperature should not exceed 200°F (93°C).
• Optimum cooling is achieved when engine coolant flows as shown in
Fig. 1.
Contaminants not being regularly drained Check reservoir drain valves to insure that they are functioning properly. It is
from system reservoirs. recommended that the vehicle be equipped with functioning automatic drain
valves or have all reservoirs drained to zero psi daily, or optimally, to be
equipped with a desiccant-type air dryer prior to the reservoir system.
Compressor runs loaded an excessive Vehicle system leakage should not exceed 1 psi (7 kPa) pressure drop per
amount of time. minute without brakes applied and 3 psi (21 kPa) pressure drop per minute
with brakes applied. If leakage is excessive, check for system leaks and re-
pair.
Problem—Compressor Constantly Cycles; Compressor Remains Unloaded for a Very Short Time
Problem—Compressor Constantly Cycles; Compressor Remains Unloaded for a Very Short Time
Possible Cause Remedy
Leaking compressor unloader pistons. Remove the compressor inlet strainer or fitting. With the compressor unloaded
(not compressing air), check for air leakage. Replace as necessary.
Malfunctioning governor. Test the governor for proper operation and repair or replace as necessary.
Excessive air system leakage. Test for excessive system leakage and repair as necessary. Use the following
as a guide: Build system pressure to governor cutout and allow the pressure
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure drop
after two minutes. The pressure drops should not exceed:
• 2 psi (14 kPa) in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi (41 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi (55 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
Excessive reservoir contaminants. Drain reservoirs.
A B
OR
B A
OR
A
01/30/2002 f130116
Tu-Flo 550 and 750 Specifications • Minimum Coolant Flow (water cooled) at:
• Displacement at 1250 rpm: • Maximum rpm: 2.5 gpm (9.5 L/min)
• Tu-Flo 550: 13.2 cfm • Minimum rpm: 5 gpm (19 L/min)
• Tu-Flo 750: 16.5 cfm • Maximum discharge air temperature: 400°F
(204°C)
• Maximum recommended rpm:
• Minimum oil pressure required at maximum
• Tu-Flo 550: 3000 rpm
governed engine speed: 15 psig (103 kPa)
• Tu-Flo 750: 2400 rpm
• Number of cylinders: 2
• Minimum oil pressure required at engine idle
speed: 15 psig (103 kPa) • Weight: 50 pounds (23 kilograms)
Special Tools
A special tool is needed to replace the drive gear on
the WABCO 15.5 cfm and 28.1 cfm air compressors.
See Table 1.
Special Tool
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580250
Removal
1. Shut off the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
3
2. Drain the air tanks.
5
3. Open the hood and clean all the fittings and 4
hose connections on the air compressor and 2 6
power steering pump until they are free of dirt.
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see 10 7 8
Section 20.01, Subject 100. 11
3.3 Using an impact wrench, remove the 5. Install the air inlet line.
drive nut from the drive gear. 6. Using a capscrew, install the air governor on the
3.4 Remove the drive gear from the air com- engine.
pressor. If necessary, use a gear puller to 7. Attach the unloader line to the air compressor.
remove the drive gear.
8. Attach the discharge line to the air compressor.
3.5 Install a new drive gear and nut on the
drive shaft. Torque the nut 200 lbf·ft (270 9. Install the engine trim panel.
N·m).
2 4
3
1
02/06/2002 6 f130105
1. Capscrew
2. Power Steering Pump
3. O-Ring, Power Steering Pump
4. Cross Plate
5. Air Compressor
6. Hydraulic Lines
General Information 5 6 7
4 8
The BA-921 air compressor is a single-cylinder recip-
rocating compressor with a rated displacement of
3 9
15.8 cubic feet per minute at 1250 rpm. The com-
pressor consists of a water-cooled cylinder head, a
valve plate assembly, and an air-cooled integral 2
crankcase and cylinder block. See Fig. 1. The cylin-
der head is an aluminum casting that contains the
required air and water ports as well as an unloader 1
piston. The valve plate assembly consists of lami-
nated and brazed steel plates that incorporate vari-
ous valve openings and channels for conducting air
and engine coolant in to and out of the cylinder
head.
The discharge valves are part of the valve plate as-
sembly. The cylinder head and the valve plate com-
prise a complete cylinder head assembly. The cast
iron crankcase and cylinder block assembly houses
the piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, and related 11 10
bearings. 07/17/2002 f130118
The BA-921 crankcase cover is stamped with infor- 1. Crankcase 7. Governor Connection
mation identifying the compressor model, customer 2. Valve Plate Assembly 8. Discharge Port
piece number, Bendix piece number, and serial num- 3. Cylinder Head 9. Water Port
ber. See Fig. 2. 4. Air Inlet Port 10. Crankcase Cover
5. Unloader Cover 11. Oil Port
6. Water Port
Principles of Operation
Fig. 1, BA-921 Air Compressor
The compressor is driven by the vehicle engine and
functions continuously while the engine is in opera-
tion. Actual compression of air is controlled by the
compressor unloading mechanism operating in con-
junction with a governor.
BA−921
Cust P/N: XXXXXXX
Bendix P/N: 5XXXXXX
Serial Number: XXXXXX
07/15/2002 f130119
WARNING
Wear goggles when using compressed air to
clean or dry parts, as permanent eye injury could
result from flying debris.
3. Using a cleaning solvent, remove road dirt and
grease from the outside of the air compressor.
Then dry the compressor with compressed air.
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see
Group 20.
5. Identify and disconnect all air, water, and oil lines
attached to the air compressor.
6. Remove the air governor and the air governor
mounting gasket.
7. Remove any components attached to the air
compressor, such as a fuel pump or power steer-
ing pump.
8. Support the air compressor and remove the cap-
screws that attach the compressor to the gear
case. Remove the air compressor.
9. Discard all gaskets.
IMPORTANT: Be sure the new gaskets are
clean and not damaged.
10. Install a new air compressor gasket on the com-
pressor.
11. Using capscrews, attach the air compressor to
the gear case. For torque specifications, see the
engine manufacturer’s service manual.
12. Install any components that were removed from
the air compressor, such as a fuel pump or
power steering pump.
13. Install a new gasket on the air governor. Then
install the air governor on the engine.
14. Identify and connect the air, coolant, and oil lines
to the air compressor.
15. Fill the engine cooling system. For instructions,
see Group 20.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Noisy Compressor Operation
Problem—Noisy Compressor Operation
Possible Cause Remedy
Loose drive gear or components. Inspect the fit of the drive gear on the compressor crankshaft. The gear or
coupling must be completely seated and the crankshaft nut must be tight. If
the compressor crankshaft surface is damaged, it is an indication of loose
drive components. If damage to the compressor crankshaft is detected,
replace the compressor. When installing the drive gear or pulley, torque the
crankshaft nut to the appropriate torque specifications and use care when
pressing drive components on to the crankshaft.
Do not back off the crankshaft nut once it is tightened to the proper torque.
Do not use impact wrenches to install the crankshaft nut.
Excessively worn drive couplings or gears. Inspect drive gear, couplings, and engine for excessive wear. Replace as
necessary.
NOTE: Nonmetallic gears should be replaced when the compressor is
changed.
Compressor cylinder head or discharge Inspect the compressor discharge port and discharge line for carbon buildup.
line restrictions. If carbon is detected, check for proper cooling to the compressor. See the
remedy for insufficient compressor cooling in the table titled Problem—
Excessive Oil Passage. Inspect the discharge line for kinks and restrictions.
Replace the discharge line as necessary.
Worn or burned out bearings. Check for proper oil pressure in the compressor. Minimum required oil
pressure is 15 psi (103 kPa) when engine is idling and 15 psi (103 kPa)
maximum at governed engine rpm. Check for excessive oil temperature; oil
temperature should not exceed 240°F (115°C).
Malfunctioning compressor. Repair or replace the compressor after making certain none of the preceding
conditions exist.
Problem—Compressor Constantly Cycles; Compressor Remains Unloaded for a Very Short Time
Problem—Compressor Constantly Cycles; Compressor Remains Unloaded for a Very Short Time
Possible Cause Remedy
Leaking compressor unloader pistons. Repair or replace as necessary. Remove the compressor inlet air strainer or
fitting. With the compressor unloaded (not compressing air), listen for air
escaping.
Malfunctioning governor and installation. Test the governor for proper operation and inspect air lines for kinks or
restrictions. Repair or replace the governor or connecting air lines as required.
Excessive system leakage. Test for excessive system leakage and repair as necessary. Use the following
as a guide. Build system pressure to governor cutout and allow the pressure
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure and
the pressure drop after two minutes. The pressure drops should not exceed:
• 2 psi (14 kPa) in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi (41 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi (55 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
Excessive reservoir contaminants. Drain reservoirs.
2
C
4
3
B 1
07/15/2002 f130120
1. Compressor
2. Governor Unloader Port
3. Supply Reservoir
4. Governor
5. Reservoir Port
A D
11/14/2002 f130121
NOTE: The cylinder head connection ports are identified
with the following numbers which are cast into the com-
pressor: 0–Air In; 2–Compressed Air Out; 9–Coolant In
or Out; 4–Governor Control.
A. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is
plugged.)
B. Inlet Port
C. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is
plugged.)
D. Discharge Safety Valve
General Information
Both Leece-Neville and Delco Remy alternators are 5
available as original equipment on Freightliner ve- 4
hicles. Installation and removal are the same for all 3
alternators on a given engine design. 2
Many alternators are equipped with a remote-sense
terminal that connects to the batteries, and adjusts 1
the alternator output to keep the system at full
charge. See Fig. 1 for a Delco Remy alternator with
remote sense. See Fig. 2 for a Leece-Neville alterna-
tor with remote sense.
5
4
3 07/12/2010 f151153a
2
1. Lamp Terminal ’L’ 4. Positive Terminal
2. Remote-Sense (Battery)
Terminal ’S’ 5. Remote Sense
1 3. A.C. Terminals Circuit 123E
07/12/2010 f151152a
1. Remote-Sense 4. Remote Sense
Terminal Circuit 123E
2. Indicator Terminal 5. Positive Terminal
(lamp) (Battery)
3. Relay Terminal ’R’
Removal 6.3 Hold the rotor shaft with the Allen wrench,
and turn the pulley nut counterclockwise
to remove it. See Fig. 1. Remove the nut,
1. Apply the parking brake, shut down the engine,
washer, and pulley.
and chock the rear tires. Open the hood.
2. Disconnect the batteries.
NOTICE
Some vehicles are equipped with a cab load dis-
connect switch (CLDS). The CLDS does not dis-
connect power to the alternator and starter, so a
short-circuit hazard still exists when working on
the vehicle. The batteries must be disconnected
to remove the short-circuit hazard when working
on the charging system.
3. Remove the alternator drive belt, following the
instructions in Section 01.01 of this manual.
NOTE: Be sure the belt is working correctly be-
fore replacing the alternator. Many charging sys-
tem problems originate in the drive belt. Inspect
the belt for glazing, wear (frayed edges), dam-
age (breaks or cracks), or oil contamination. Re-
place the belt if any of these conditions are
present.
4. Note the wire connections on the terminals, then
disconnect the wiring harness. Refer to Sub-
ject 050 in this section for wiring connections.
5. Remove the alternator-mounting capscrews. Re-
move the alternator.
6. Remove the pulley for use on the new alternator.
If the alternator is a Delco Remy, remove the pul-
ley as follows:
03/22/2007 f151112
Hold the rotor shaft with the Allen wrench, and turn the
WARNING pulley nut counterclockwise to remove it. Remove the
nut, washer, and the pulley.
Do not attempt to keep the pulley from turning
with your hand, and do not jam a screwdriver Fig. 1, Loosening a Delco Remy Alternator Pulley Nut
into the cooling fins to keep it from turning, as
you attempt to loosen the pulley nut. Using pul- Installation
ley nut removal and installation methods other
than the one described below may cause per- 1. For a Delco Remy alternator, install the pulley on
sonal injury, or damage the alternator and void the new alternator.
the warranty.
1.1 Hold the alternator pulley retaining nut
6.1 Hold the alternator pulley retaining nut with a box-end wrench.
with a box-end wrench.
1.2 Insert a 5/16-inch Allen wrench into the
6.2 Insert a 5/16-inch Allen wrench into the Allen fitting in the rotor shaft.
Allen fitting in the rotor shaft.
1.3 Hold the rotor shaft with the Allen wrench, output-terminal hexnut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm).
and turn the pulley nut clockwise to Tighten the ground-terminal hexnut 65 lbf·in (730
tighten. N·cm). Tighten the other terminal hexnuts 20
lbf·in (225 N·cm).
1.4 Tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (101 N·m).
4. Protect any exposed terminal connectors with
2. Install the alternator.
dielectric red enamel.
2.1 Position the alternator on the engine. and 5. Connect the batteries.
start the mounting capscrews.
6. Close and latch the hood, and remove the tire
On Leece Neville pad-mounted alterna- chocks.
tors, belt alignment is obtained by the two
mounting bolt holes closest to the alterna-
tors pulley. These holes are precision
drilled so the alternator is positioned cor-
rectly on the engine bracket for proper belt
alignment. When mounting a Leece-
Neville alternator, it is important that the
label or regulator face away from the en-
gine block. If this is not adhered to then
the belt alignment will not be correct. See
Fig. 2.
B
A
05/20/2011 f151168
Pre-Test Checks
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires. Raise the hood.
2. If the vehicle is equipped with a remote-sense
circuit, inspect as follows:
2.1 Verify that the remote-sense wire (circuit #
123E) is connected to the remote sense
terminal. 07/14/2010 f151154
2.2 Verify the fuse for the remote-sense circuit Fig. 1, Intelli-Check 2 Alternator Analyzer
is not open. This fuse is located in the
PTPDM on pre EPA 10 vehicles and is in 1.1 With the vehicle shut down, begin by turn-
the PNDB on EPA 10 vehicles. The re- ing the tester on. Select “Voltage Drop”
mote sense terminal on the alternator will Test and press Enter. Press ESC to by-
measure approximately 1/2 volt below bat- pass the vehicle ID screen.
tery voltage when the remote sense circuit
(123E) fuse is open. 1.2 Select “Charging Cables” and press Enter.
Enter the rated alternator output from the
3. Check all connections between the battery, label on the alternator and press Enter.
starter and alternator for tightness and signs of
corrosion. Tighten, clean, and protect as neces- 1.3 Connect the large leads to the alternator
sary. output terminal and ground and press
Enter.
Using the Intelli-Check 2 NOTE: Disregard the tester summary of
Systems Analyzer pass/fail. A voltage drop of 1/2 volt or less is
acceptable.
NOTE: The Intelli-Check 2 tester is recom-
mended for alternator testing. It is capable of 1.4 Connect the small leads to the battery.
testing alternators with an output that is greater Press Enter to run the test. Use caution
as the tester becomes warm during the
than the limit of the Intelli-Check (original) tester test. If there is ½ volt or less voltage drop
limit of 145 amps. measured on each cable, the cables and
IMPORTANT: The batteries should be charged connections are acceptable. If there is
to at least 12.6 volts before performing the fol- voltage drop in excess of ½ volt, locate
lowing tests. Remove the surface charge from and repair the cause before continuing
freshly charged batteries by turning the head- with further testing.
lights and blower fan on high for several min- 2. Test the alternator using the Intelli-Check 2.
utes. 2.1 With the vehicle shut down, begin by turn-
ing the tester on. Select “Alternator Test”
and press Enter. Press ESC to bypass the 12.35. If the batteries will start the vehicle,
vehicle ID screen. proceed with the alternator test.
2.2 Remove the small leads from the battery, 3. Start the engine using onboard batteries only. If
leaving the large leads connected as they the batteries will not start the engine, they must
were in the voltage drop test and press be charged. Start the test again after charging
Enter. The alternator rated output will the batteries and removing the surface charge.
‘stick’ from the value used in the voltage 4. Verify the engine is at idle and all electrical loads
drop test. Press Enter. are off.
2.3 Start the engine. The amount of time it 5. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold
takes to walk back to the tester should for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
have given the system enough time for
the voltage to stabilize. Press Enter to • If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, pro-
begin the test. ceed to the next step.
2.4 When prompted, accelerate the engine to • If any LEDs illuminate indicating over-
governed speed for 10 seconds. charge, partial charge or no charge (the
three red lights in the DEFECTIVE sec-
2.5 Turn the engine off. The results will be tion), replace the alternator.
displayed on the Intelli-Check 2.
6. With the engine running, turn on all electrical
loads.
Using the Intelli-Check (Original)
7. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold
Systems Analyzer for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
See Fig. 2. 8. If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, the alter-
1. With the engine off, connect the red alligator clip nator is OK and the test is complete.
to the output terminal of the alternator. Connect 9. If any LEDs illuminate indicating overcharge, par-
the black alligator clip to the alternator ground. tial charge or no charge (the three red lights in
An optional ground connection is to the body of the DEFECTIVE section), replace the alternator.
the alternator. The tester LEDs will illuminate and
then go off as it performs a self-test.
2. After 4 seconds the tester will activate. The fol-
lowing LEDs may illuminate depending on the
condition of the batteries:
2.1 GOOD (green) LED indicates the battery
voltage is above 12.8 and has a surface
charge. The surface charge must be re-
moved before proceeding with the alterna-
tor test. To remove the surface charge,
turn on the headlights and blower fan for 2
minutes without restarting the engine.
Reset the tester by disconnecting, then
reconnecting the tester alligator clips. The
analyzer will again perform its self-test.
2.2 NO CHARGE (red) LED indicates the bat-
tery voltage is below 12.8. This LED
should illuminate for most tests. Proceed
with the alternator test.
2.3 LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED
indicates the battery voltage is below
09/10/99 f150983
1. Red Alligator Clip 3. Hand-Held Alternator Analyzer
2. Black Alligator Clip
Principles of Operation
When battery power is applied to the magnetic
switch activate terminal, cranking will begin. The
magnetic switch sends power to the starter solenoid.
The solenoid moves a lever which causes the pinion
gear to engage with the ring gear on the flywheel. As
the gears engage, battery power spins the starter
motor.
When diagnosing starting problems, always begin
with fully charged batteries, and perform a voltage
drop test on the battery cables and magnetic-switch
circuit. Once the engine is running, check that the
alternator is properly charging the batteries.
A starter that cranks slowly, or just clicks when the
keyswitch is turned, typically indicates a problem with
supplying adequate power to the starter. Corrosion
and loose connections in the battery cables will
cause significant voltage drop and may prevent the
starter from cranking the engine.
Frontwall
Main PDM
D 52 Pink 12 12
5 Amp Fuse
Eaton
Transmission ECU
26 4 32
15T
223B1
223B2
472S
440C TOC
15K BOC
305 ACC
15 Crank
306 Run
85
86
R8
87
PTPDM
30
87a
A5 A3 A1 B2 B3
B6 B6
472S B BHM
B4
01/21/2011 f151155
Frontwall Keyswitch
Main PDM
D 52 Pink 12 12
5 Amp Fuse
Overcrank A
Protection C
Switch
Option Some Allison Systems
15T
Allison
Trans
GND
ECU
NSBU Switch
8 6 4 5 9 7 3 2 1 12 10 11
11
10
12
E123
1
15C Eaton
2
3 Trans
87a 85
7 ECU
87 9
5
4
440C TOC
15B
6
15K BOC
30 86
15 Crank
305 ACC
306 Run
8 Some Eaton Systems
15D
Remote
15D
Magnetic
Eaton
Switch
A5 A3 A1 B2 B3 Trans
Starter B6 B6 ECU
G BHM
B2
15A B B4
Components in dotted boxes are optional and vary with vehicle content. Use EZ Wiring for actual schematic diagrams.
06/08/2011 f151170
Removal
Before replacing the starter, perform the checks in
1
Troubleshooting 300.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cables at the
batteries. Open the hood.
3. Disconnect and label the wiring that connects to
the starter. See Fig. 1.
7 1
12/09/2009 f151144
5 1. Mounting Bolts
3
tighten them to the values shown in Specifica-
tions 400.
3. Connect the wiring to the solenoid and starter as
8
2 previously marked. Tighten the terminals to the
torque values shown in Specifications 400.
4. Protect all exposed terminal connectors with di-
electric red enamel.
1 5. Connect the batteries.
12/07/2009 f151145
1. Over-Crank Protection Switch Terminal
2. Battery Ground Terminal
3. Ground Circuit to Starter Solenoid
4. Battery Positive Terminal
5. Solenoid
6. Magnetic Switch Activate Terminal
7. Magnetic Switch
8. Solenoid Activate Terminal
Installation
1. Place the starter into the mounting hole in the
flywheel housing.
2. Hand start the three mounting bolts, then hand
tighten them until snug. Using a torque wrench,
Starter System sition to close the switch between pins 10 and 11.
The NSBU is located on the drivers side of the trans-
Troubleshooting mission case. If the NSBU requires adjustment, use
the procedure in the Allison service manual.
Use troubleshooting tables 1 through 5 for system
If the vehicle is equipped with an automated or auto-
diagnosis to reduce the likelihood of replacing a
matic transmission, also check for any fault codes
starter that is not defective, and to insure the com-
with gear position selection and control. If the trans-
plete starting system is tested.
mission is not confirmed to be in neutral, the trans-
Check for fault codes from Source Address 33 (BHM) mission controller will not allow the engine to be
and the transmission. Perform the recommended ac- started.
tion in Table 1 if fault codes from the BHM are
See Table 2 for troubleshooting related to the starter
shown. Use the applicable transmission manufactur-
cranking slowly, or making repeated clicking sounds.
ers troubleshooting material if fault codes from the
transmission control system are shown. See Table 3 for troubleshooting problems relating to
the starter doing nothing, or making only a single
Vehicles with automated manual or automatic trans-
click for vehicles with an integrated magnetic switch.
missions may have electrical hardware to interrupt or
enable starting. Newer designs use serial data mes- See Table 4 for troubleshooting problems relating to
saging to broadcast neutral status. Use EZ-Wiring to the starter doing nothing, or making only a single
access the schematics for the vehicle and Service- click for vehicles with an remote mounted magnetic
Link to analyze which neutral and starter interlock switch.
conditions are being broadcast by the transmission See Table 5 for troubleshooting relating to the starter
controller. making spinning or grinding sounds.
If the vehicle has an Allison transmission and a
NSBU, the shift lever must be in the N, PB, or P po-
Slow Cranking or Repeated Clicking Sound but the Engine Does Not Start
This symptom often indicates low voltage at the starter, or worn and binding starter components.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
1. Check the ambient temperature. Yes Slow cranking due to extreme cold is a normal
condition. Do not mistake slow cranking due to
Is the temperature extremely cold? cold for slow cranking due to equipment
malfunction. Go to step 2.
No Go to step 2.
2. With the keyswitch in the ON position, and the Yes Charge the batteries then go to step 3. Perform
engine not running, measure the voltage at the an alternator test when the vehicle is able to
batteries. start.
Is the voltage below 12 volts? No Go to step 3.
3. Test the batteries individually with the Midtronics Yes Replace any batteries that tested defective.
battery tester.
No Go to step 4.
Are any batteries defective?
4. Use the Midtronics EXP HD1000TA tester to Excessive Inspect for corroded and loose connections.
perform a voltage drop test on the starter cables. voltage drop Clean, tighten and repair all connections, then
protect all exposed terminal connectors with
Is excessive voltage drop present? dielectric red enamel.
Ok Go to step 5.
5. Turning the keyswitch to START (cranking), No voltage, Use the troubleshooting procedures in the table
measure the voltage at the magnetic switch or titled Starter Does Nothing, or Makes Only a
activate terminal. intermittent Single Click.
voltage
Is battery voltage present?
Yes Replace the starter.
Table 2, Slow Cranking or Repeated Clicking Sound but the Engine Does Not Start
Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with an Integrated Magnetic Switch
This symptom often indicates a problem with the magnetic switch or starter solenoid circuit. Worn components in
the starter or engine can also create binding and result in this symptom.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
1. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 2.
position, measure the voltage at the magnetic
switch activate terminal.
No Go to step 3.
Is battery voltage present?
2. Use the Midtronics EXP HD1000TA tester to Excessive Inspect for corroded and loose connections.
perform a voltage drop test on the starter cables. voltage drop Clean, tighten and repair all connections, then
protect all exposed terminal connectors with
Is excessive voltage drop present? dielectric red enamel.
No Replace the starter.
3. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 5.
position, measure the voltage on connector 6,
pin A5 of the bulkhead module
No Go to step 4.
Is battery voltage present?
Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with an Integrated Magnetic Switch
This symptom often indicates a problem with the magnetic switch or starter solenoid circuit. Worn components in
the starter or engine can also create binding and result in this symptom.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
4. Measure the voltage on circuit 52 at the Yes Troubleshoot for an open in circuit 15 between
keyswitch. the keyswitch and the BHM, and for an open
keyswitch.
Is battery voltage present?
No Check for an open 5 amp fuse (F5) in the main
PDM. Test for a wiring fault in circuit 52
between the PDM and the keyswitch and in
circuits 15, 305, and 306 between the
keyswitch and the BHM.
5. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 6.
position, measure the voltage on connector 4,
No Allow time for the starter protection temperature
pin B of the bulkhead module.
model to calculate that the starter has cooled
Is battery voltage present? off. Troubleshoot for a wiring fault in the bottom
of the clutch switch circuit on connector 6, pin
B3. If the vehicle has an automated
transmission, troubleshoot for faults with gear
position and control circuits, otherwise replace
the bulkhead module.
6. Does the vehicle have an Eaton automated Yes Ensure the transmission is in neutral. Test for a
transmission? wiring fault in circuit 472S between the
bulkhead module and relay R8 in the PTPDM.
Test for a fault with the transmission control of
R8 and repair if necessary. If R8 testing
passes, test circuit 472S to the overcrank
protection switch in the starter, and circuit 15T
to the magnetic switch.
No Test for a wiring fault in circuit 472S between
the bulkhead module and the starter. If the
starter uses the internal overcrank protection
switch, test circuit 15T from the overcrank
protection switch to the magnetic switch.
Table 3, Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with an Integrated Magnetic Switch
Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with a Remote Mounted Magnetic Switch
This symptom often indicates a problem with the magnetic switch or starter solenoid circuit. Worn components in
the starter or engine can also create binding and result in this symptom.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
1. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 2.
position, measure the voltage at the starter
solenoid (circuit 15C) activate terminal.
No Go to step 3.
Is battery voltage present?
Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with a Remote Mounted Magnetic Switch
This symptom often indicates a problem with the magnetic switch or starter solenoid circuit. Worn components in
the starter or engine can also create binding and result in this symptom.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
2. Use the Midtronics EXP HD1000TA tester to Excessive Inspect for corroded and loose connections.
perform a voltage drop test on the starter cables. voltage drop Clean, tighten and repair all connections, then
protect all exposed terminal connectors with
Is excessive voltage drop present? dielectric red enamel.
No Replace the starter.
3. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 5.
position, measure the voltage on connector 6,
pin A5 of the bulkhead module
No Go to step 4.
Is battery voltage present?
4. Measure the voltage on circuit 52 at the Yes Troubleshoot for an open in circuit 15 between
keyswitch. the keyswitch and the BHM, and for an open
keyswitch.
Is battery voltage present?
No Check for an open 5 amp fuse (F5) in the main
PDM. Test for a wiring fault in circuit 52
between the PDM and the keyswitch and in
circuits 15, 305, and 306 between the
keyswitch and the BHM.
5. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Yes Go to step 6.
position, measure the voltage on connector 4,
No Allow time for the starter protection temperature
pin B of the bulkhead module.
model to calculate that the starter has cooled
Is battery voltage present? off. Use EZ wiring to access the vehicle wiring
schematic and determine if the vehicle uses the
clutch switch input on BHM connector B6, pin 3
or the neutral input on connector B2 pin G. If
none of these hardwire inputs are used,
connect ServiceLink to determine if the
transmission controller is detecting neutral gear.
If either of these hardwire neutral/ clutch inputs
are used, use the vehicle schematic to
determine where the ground signal is
interrupted. This circuit must be at ground to
enable starting. If the circuit is at ground
replace the bulkhead module.
6. Allow time for the starter protection model to Yes Troubleshoot and repair for an open magnetic
calculate that the starter has cooled. Then with switch or a wiring fault in circuit 15B or 15C
the keyswitch in the START position, measure between the starter and the magnetic switch.
for battery voltage across the 15A circuit and the
No Troubleshoot and repair for an open magnetic
ground circuit at the magnetic switch on the two
switch, an open overcrank protection switch, or
small terminals.
for a wiring fault in circuit 15A between the
Is battery voltage present? BHM and the magnetic switch or for an open
ground circuit at magnetic switch or overcrank
protection switch.
Table 4, Starter Does Nothing or Makes Only a Single Click—Vehicles with a Remote Mounted Magnetic Switch
Starter Makes Spinning or Grinding Sounds but the Engine Does Not Crank.
This symptom often indicates a mechanical problem with the starter or the ring gear.
Step Test Procedure Test Result Action
1. With the keyswitch in the START (crank) Low or No Go to step 2.
position, test the voltage at the starter battery
cable connections.
Yes Go to step 3.
Is battery voltage present?
2. Use the Midtronics EXP HD1000TA tester to No Go to step 3.
perform a voltage drop test on the starter cables.
Excessive Inspect for corroded and loose connections.
Is excessive voltage drop present? voltage drop Clean, tighten and repair all connections, then
protect all exposed terminal connectors with
dielectric red enamel
3. Remove the starter and inspect the starter pinion Ok Go to step 4.
gear for milling. Attempt to spin the pinion gear
in both directions. The overrunning clutch will
allow the gear to be turned in the clockwise
direction, but it should be extremely difficult or
impossible to turn in the counter clockwise Defective Replace the starter.
direction.
4. Bar the engine over to inspect the 3 positions on Damaged Replace the ring gear.
the ring gear where the starter engages.
Table 5, Starter Makes Spinning or Grinding Sounds but the Engine Does Not Crank
General Information
The main function of a cooling system is to keep the
engine at its optimum operating temperature. This
results in the most efficient use of fuel and allows the
engine oil to provide a good lubricating film. For the
typical coolant plumbing, see Fig. 1.
The cooling system is a high-flow design, where
most of the coolant in a warm engine moves rela-
tively quickly across the radiator in a single pass.
Coolant flows from the radiator to the water pump,
which forces the coolant into the engine block. Inside
the block, the coolant flows around and between the
cylinders, and then up into the cylinder head. From
the head, it flows to the temperature regulator (ther-
mostat) housing. If the engine is cool, the thermostat
directs the coolant back to the water pump, and the
water pump forces the coolant back into the engine.
As the engine warms, the thermostat directs the
coolant to the radiator. The thermostat keeps the en-
gine temperature in the optimum range by controlling
the two flows.
To prevent air and vapor from being trapped in the
radiator or engine, vent lines rise from the high
points where air and vapor would collect in those
components. The vent lines carry any collected air to
the surge tank.
11/02/2001 f011997
1. Heater Supply Hose
2. Heater Return Hose
General Information 1
14
15
10
12
11
15
16
13
7 6
8
8
9 5
4
2 3
03/28/2003 f500360
1. Radiator 7. Hexbolt 12. Left Inner Strut Rod
2. Isolator 8. Flatwasher 13. Left Outer Strut Rod
3. Front Crossmember 9. Hexnut 14. Hexbolt
4. Support Bracket 10. Right Upper Strut Rod 15. Washer
5. Lockwasher 11. Right Lower Strut Rod 16. Hexnut
6. Hexbolt
18. Lift the radiator assembly from the vehicle. 19. If necessary, remove the charge air cooler from
the radiator. For instructions, see Group 09.
13
14
10
11
14
12
15
8
9 7
5 4 6
2
3
1
03/28/2003 f500359
1. Hexnut 6. Radiator Support Bracket 11. Left Inner Strut Rod
2. Washer 7. Isolator 12. Left Outer Strut Rod
3. Closing Crossmember 8. Washer 13. Hexbolt
4. Washer 9. Radiator 14. Washer
5. Hexbolt 10. Right Strut Rod 15. Hexnut
ABA Radial worm-drive hose clamps may lose Over-tightening an ABA Radial worm-drive hose
30 percent of their torque at the screw adjuster, clamp can result in coolant leaks.
shortly after being correctly tightened. This is 13. Connect the charge air cooler hoses. Tighten the
due to cold-flow of the hose material, not an constant torque hose clamps 60 lbf·in (680
actual loosening of the clamp. This is the way N·cm).
they are designed to work, they should not be
14. If applicable, connect the transmission oil cooler
tightened further. To check the torque of an ABA hoses.
clamp, it must be loosened completely, then
torqued to the proper value listed in Table 1.
12/22/2003 f200590
B
A 1
08/15/94 f200286
Pressure Testing
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle. For in-
structions, refer to Subject 100.
2. Pressure-test the radiator.
2.1 Plug the inlet, outlet, and all other ports on
the radiator assembly.
CAUTION
Don’t apply a higher amount of air pressure than
specified below; too much pressure will damage
the radiator core.
2.2 Remove the radiator cap, and install a
pressure regulator and gauge. Using a
hand pump, apply 20 psi (140 kPa) air
pressure through the filler neck.
2.3 Submerge the radiator in a tank of water
and check it for leaks. Remove the radia-
tor from the water.
2.4 Remove the plugs and the testing gauge,
and install the radiator cap. Repair the
radiator, if necessary.
3. Install the radiator in the vehicle. For instructions,
refer to Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: Disassembling and assembling 2.3 Slip the side channels off the radiator
radiators with nylon tanks requires the special core and tank assembly. See Fig. 4.
tools listed in Table 1. 3. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly.
9 1
6
2
10
11
7
1
3
5
9 4
8
13
8
1 B
12
2
14
5
10
11
1
A 9 3
4
05/23/95 f500184a
A. Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
B. See Detail
1. Channel Mounting Pin 6. Side Channel (top) 11. Nut
2. Bolt 7. End Tank 12. Radiator Brace Rod
3. 3/8-Inch Flatwasher 8. End Tank Gasket 13. Radiator Core
4. 3/8-16 Bolt 9. Spring Clip 14. Side Channel (bottom)
5. 3/8-16 Nut 10. Lockwasher
1 1
03/25/93 f500172a
1. Spring Clip
CAUTION
In some places, especially around the tank ports,
the wave lock crimps may have to be unlocked
03/25/93 f500180a
02/17/94 f500181a
1. Sealing Surface
02/17/94 f500177a 2. Gasket
CAUTION
Apply only enough pressure to compress the
sealing gasket. Too much pressure will crack the
nylon tank.
1.6 Apply pressure evenly across the top of
the tank until the tank-to-core sealing
gasket is compressed enough to show a
small gap between the bottom of the
dimple wave lock crimp and the tank
sealing flange.
1.7 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
the disassembly/assembly fixture.
1.8 Slide the wave form bar over the T-bar,
and center the bar in front of the wave
crimp slot.
CAUTION
Do not push the wave crimp until it touches the
side of the nylon tank, or the tank may crack.
03/25/93 f500178a
1.9 Push the T-bar forward to crimp the head-
er’s edge until it almost touches the Fig. 9, Crimp the Header
tank’s side. See Fig. 9.
3.1 Slide the side channels onto the radiator
1.10 Slide the tools down the T-bar groove to
core and tank assembly.
the next wave crimp slot, and repeat the
previous steps until all the wave crimps 3.2 Using a rubber mallet and a punch, install
are crimped. the four mounting pins through the side
channel holes and tank bosses. See
CAUTION Fig. 10.
3.3 Install the four spring clips to secure the
In some places, especially around the tank ports, mounting pins in position. See Fig. 11. To
the wave crimps may have to be crimped with a install each clip, place the clip over the
screwdriver. When using a screwdriver, use care end of the mounting pin, and slide the clip
not to crack or gouge the nylon tank. until it engages the groove in the pin and
1.11 Release the pressure from the tank, and the open end of the clips snaps over the
move the clamping cylinders off the radia- edge of the pin. If necessary, use a clamp
tor core and tank assembly. to compress the side channel while in-
stalling the clips.
1.12 Repeat the first step in this procedure to
install the opposite tank. 4. Install the radiator in the vehicle. For instructions,
refer to Subject 100.
2. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly.
For instructions, refer to "Disassembly."
3. Install the radiator side channels.
1 03/25/93 f500176a
1. Spring Clip
Fig. 11, Install the Spring Clips
02/17/94 f500175a
1. Pin
Removal
5
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
2. Tilt the hood.
A
WARNING 1
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en- B
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot 2, 3, 4
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- C
ing. 6
5
3. Drain the radiator.
3.1 Remove the surge tank cap.
3.2 Open the draincock on the bottom of the
radiator to drain the engine coolant. Drain A
only enough coolant to empty the surge
tank. 7, 8 B
4. Remove the surge tank.
4.1 Mark and disconnect the engine and ra- 1
diator vent hoses from the front of the 2, 3, 4
C
surge tank. There are three hoses. See
Fig. 1.
NOTE: Cap all the disconnected hoses to
prevent the remaining coolant from spilling.
11/27/2001 f820389
4.2 Remove the fasteners holding the right
A. To Radiator C. To Engine Shunt Port
side of the surge tank to the air cleaner B. To Engine Vent Port
bracket. See Fig. 1. 1. Surge Tank 4. Flanged Nut, M8
4.3 Remove the fasteners holding the left 2. Capscrew, M8 5. HVAC Air Plenum
side of the surge tank to the frontwall and 3. Washers (2 qty.) 6. Frontwall
the HVAC air plenum. Fig. 1, Surge Tank Installation (top and front views)
4.4 Remove the surge tank from the vehicle.
3. Using the fasteners previously removed, attach
5. If replacing the surge tank, remove the overflow the surge tank to the HVAC air plenum and the
hose from the bottom. frontwall.
4. Tighten all the fasteners 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m).
Installation 5. As previously marked, connect the engine and
radiator hoses to the surge tank.
1. If it was removed, install the overflow hose to the
bottom of the surge tank. 6. Fill the coolant system through the surge tank.
2. Position the surge tank onto the air cleaner 7. Install the surge tank cap.
bracket, then install the M8 fasteners. See
Fig. 1. Tighten just enough to hold the surge 8. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Re-
tank in place. pair any leaks.
Fastener Torques
Torque
Description Grade Size
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm)
Radiator Lower-Bracket Stud Hexnuts 8 1/2–13 68 (92) —
Fan Shroud Mounting Screws — 1/4–20 x 3/4 Inch — 108 (1220)
Radiator Strut Nuts 8 1/2–13 68 (92) —
Table 1, Fastener Torques
05/08/95 f010959
Removal Installation
1. Position the heater element in the engine block.
Coat the threads of the element with a small
amount of sealant. For the approved sealants,
refer to Specifications, 400.
2. Secure the heater element in the engine block by
screwing the element into the engine block hand
tight, then use a wrench to turn the element
1-1/2 turns more.
3. Plug the cord into the element and (if applicable)
secure it by screwing the threaded cord cover in
place.
4. Fill the cooling system. For instructions, refer to
Section 20.01.
5. Start the engine and check for leaks. Repair any
leaks as necessary. Run the engine for half an
hour to purge any air from the coolant system.
6. To test the heater, plug a wattmeter into a power
source, and connect the heater cord to the
meter. A reading on the meter will indicate the
heater is working.
05/08/95 f010959
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
3. Drain the radiator. For instructions, refer to Sec-
tion 20.01.
4. If applicable, unscrew the threaded cover that
secures the cord to the element. See Fig. 1.
5. Pull the cord from the element.
6. Remove the element from the engine block by
loosening the jam nut (if applicable) and un-
screwing the element from the engine block.
Fouled Element
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires.
2. Tilt the hood.
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
APPROVED SEALANTS
• Loctite 567
• Henkel 790 Pipegrip
• Perma-Loc LH-150
General Information
The fan clutch senses the air temperature behind the
radiator core, and engages or disengages the fan
depending on that temperature. It spins the fan when
more cooling airflow is needed, and disengages it
when the radiator is sufficiently cooled.
The Eaton 690 viscous fan clutch drive consists of
two basic parts: the input plate and shaft, and the
output plate. See Fig. 1. The input shaft is mounted
to the fan hub, so they turn together as the engine
runs. The output plate is attached to the fan, but en-
gages with the input plate only when extra engine
cooling is needed.
To spin the fan, the heat sensor on the front of the
clutch opens a valve in the clutch drive chamber. The
centrifugal force of the turning input plate forces the
thick silicone fluid, stored in the drive chamber, to
flow out through tightly meshing grooves between the
input and output plates. this creates friction between
them. As that friction increases, it causes the output
plate and fan to turn with the input plate. The fluid
continues to spread out between more grooves, in-
creasing the friction between the plates until they
spin at about the same speed.
When air passing through the radiator is cool
enough, the heat sensor disengages the fan clutch. It
does this by closing the valve in the drive chamber.
That stops the flow of silicone fluid to the input and
output plates. For the fluid already between the
plates, centrifugal force continues to push it outward
until it has moved beyond the grooves. There, at the
outer edge of the clutch, it returns through a passage
in the input plate to the drive chamber.
With only a small amount of fluid to create friction
between the two plates, the fan turns much slower
than the input plate and the input shaft.
When the fan is disengaged, a single bearing allows
the output plate and fan to free-wheel in relation to
the input shaft and plate.
3
1 4
5 6
2
12/16/94 f200177a
1. Heat Sensor 4. Concentric Grooves 6. Output Plate
2. Input Plate 5. Drive Chamber 7. Fan
3. Input Shaft
Removal 1
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the 2
rear tires.
2. Disconnect the batteries or, if the vehicle is 3 4
equipped with a battery shutoff switch, turn off
the switch.
Disconnect the battery ground cable at the ve-
hicle frame. 7
Fastener Torques
Torque: lbf·ft
Description Grade Size
(N·m)
Fan Clutch-to-Fan Hub Locknuts 8 3/8—16 28 (38)
Fan Hub-to-Engine Hexbolts 10.9 M8 15 (20)
Fan Clutch-to-Fan Locknuts G 5/16—18 21 (28)
Table 1, Fastener Torques
General Information
The Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch is a temperature-
controlled, air-operated clutch for the engine cooling
fan. It is spring engaged, and controls the engine
temperature by engaging or disengaging the fan.
When the coolant temperature is below a specified
range, air pressure keeps the fan disengaged to
save engine power. When the coolant temperature
rises above the specified range, air pressure to the
fan clutch is cut off and internal spring pressure en-
gages the fan.
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem-
perature switch installed in the thermostat housing.
The temperature switch is connected to the engine
ECM, which controls the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1.
When you start a cold engine, the solenoid valve al-
lows air pressure to the fan clutch and the clutch re-
mains disengaged. When the coolant temperature
rises to the temperature switch setting, the switch
provides power to the solenoid valve and the valve
cuts off compressed air to engage the fan.
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
power to the solenoid valve, which cuts off air to the
fan clutch, engaging the fan.
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
5. Coolant Temperature Sensor
05/29/2002 f200576
8. Lower the hood.
1. Hexnut 9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2. Fan Clutch Assembly
3. Hexbolt,
6
5
4
3
2
1
14 16
15 17
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
05/30/2002 f200568
1. Fan Mounting Disc 6. Air Chamber Seal 12. Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
2. Torx®-Head Screw (8 qty.) 7. Air Chamber Cap Retaining Ring 13. Air Cartridge Assembly
3. Friction Lining 8. O-Ring 14. Sheave Bearings
4. Cage Nut (supplied with repair 9. Air Chamber Cap 15. Bearing Spacer
kit) 10. Face Seal 16. Sheave
5. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 11. Bearing Nut 17. Journal Bracket
WARNING
A
1 Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider-
2 able force, possibly resulting in serious injury.
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous-
ing and the piston together.
8. Using a wrench and a T55 Torx bit to hold the
jack bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto
the jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it
onto the spring housing.
3
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the
05/30/2002 f200583
Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
A. Place the pry bar here. place are removed.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise) 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
1
4
3 2
2
1
3
06/05/2002 f200571
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly
2. Cage Nut
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
05/28/2002 f200572
24. Remove the air cartridge.
1. Air Chamber 24.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 9.
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed) 24.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
Fig. 10.
Fig. 5, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
Installation
Assembly
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system. 1. If necessary, clean the air cartridge bore in the
mounting bracket.
05/29/2002 f200574
1. Bearing Nut
2. Mounting Bracket
1
05/29/2002 f200575
05/29/2002 f200578
1. Sheave
2. Mounting Bracket 1. Float Seal Tip
2. Air Cartridge
Fig. 8, Removing the Sheave
Fig. 10, Removing the Air Cartridge
NOTE: The sheave bearings do not require lu-
brication. 2.1 If equipped with two bearings, assemble
the bearings so the markings on their
2. If replacing the sheave bearings, do the follow- edges line up to form an arrow. See
ing:
Fig. 11. It doesn’t matter which way the 3. Apply O-ring lubricant from the kit to the outside
arrow faces when the bearings are in- O-rings of the new air cartridge assembly. See
stalled. Fig. 13.
1 1
A
3
3 A
1 1 03/27/2000 f200515
A. Convex surface of the retaining ring goes toward
05/30/2002 f200582 the air cartridge.
A. Align the markings to form an arrow. 1. Retaining Ring
1. Sheave Bearing 2. O-Rings
3. Air Cartridge
Fig. 11, Aligning the Bearings
Fig. 13, Installing the Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
IMPORTANT: If the fan clutch uses spacers,
be sure to install them between the bear- 4. Install the new air cartridge assembly into the
mounting bracket.
ings.
5. Install the retaining ring, making sure the convex
2.2 Supporting the sheave, press the new
surface of the ring is toward the air cartridge.
sheave bearings — and spacers, if appli-
See Fig. 13.
cable — into place. Note the position of
the lip inside the sheave. 6. Using a clean, dry cloth, clean both the float seal
tip of the air cartridge and the face seal of the air
2.3 Slide the sheave onto the mounting
chamber cap.
bracket. See Fig. 8.
7. Assemble the air chamber cap and face seal.
2.4 Making sure that the bearing nut hex is
See Fig. 6.
facing up, install the bearing nut. See
Fig. 12. Tighten 130 lbf·ft (176 N·m). See Tighten the face seal 75 to 100 lbf·in (850 to
Fig. 7. 1130 N·cm).
8. Lubricate the O-ring seal with the fresh lubricant
from the kit.
A
9. Install the O-ring seal on the air chamber cap.
See Fig. 6.
10. Carefully set the air chamber cap into the
sheave. See Fig. 6.
Disassembly
NOTE: This procedure involves a minor rebuild A
1
of the Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch, using
parts from the manufacturer’s Seal Kit. If a ma-
jor rebuild of the fan clutch is needed, see Sub- 2
ject 110.
1. Remove the fan clutch assembly from the ve-
hicle. For instructions, see Subject 100.
2. Put the fan clutch assembly in a vise.
3. Connect a shop air hose to the fan clutch air in- 3
let.
4. Apply 80 to 120 psi (552 to 827 kPa) to the fan
clutch to lift the fan mounting disc off the spring 05/30/2002 f200583
housing/piston assembly.
A. Place the pry bar here.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
CAUTION 2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise)
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
Use care when placing the pry bar onto the fan
mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on Fig. 1, Loosening the Jack Bolt
the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
bar to slip, which could result in damage to studs
or the fan mounting disc.
5. Using a pry bar, wrench, and a T55 Torx® bit,
loosen the jack bolt (left-hand thread) by turning 1
it counterclockwise. See Fig. 1.
6. Unscrew the fan mounting disc from the jack
bolt. See Fig. 2.
2
7. Inspect the fan mounting disc for wear or dam-
age.
WARNING
Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider- 08/07/2002 f200586
able force, possibly resulting in serious injury. 1. Fan Mounting Disc
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous- 2. Jack Bolt (left-hand thread)
ing and the piston together.
Fig. 2, Fan Mounting Disc Removal and Installation
8. Using a wrench and T55 Torx bit to hold the jack
bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto the Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it onto place are removed.
the spring housing. 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the
WARNING 2
05/28/2002 f200572
4
1. Air Chamber
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed)
3
Fig. 4, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
2 Installation
1 17. Remove the O-ring seal from the air chamber
cap. See Fig. 5.
18. Remove the face seal. See Fig. 5.
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system.
20. Remove the air cartridge.
06/05/2002 f200571 20.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 6.
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 20.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
2. Cage Nut
Fig. 7.
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
07/13/94 f200029a
WARNING
The new spring housing/piston assembly from
the kit has a cage nut installed on it. Do not re-
move the cage nut. This will cause the spring
housing to be forcibly ejected from the piston
assembly, which could result in serious injury.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan Clutch
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan Clutch
Possible Cause Remedy
The face seal or air cartridge is damaged Install a new seal kit.
or worn.
The O-ring seals are damaged or worn. Install a new seal kit.
Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m)
Friction Lining 80 (900) —
Screws
Face Seal 75 to 100 (850 to —
1130)
Bearing Nut — 130 (176)
Jack Bolt — 100 (136)
Table 2, Torque Values
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
5. Coolant Temperature Sensor
General Information
The fan clutch is a temperature-controlled, air-
operated clutch for the engine cooling fan. It is spring
engaged, and controls the engine temperature by
engaging or disengaging the fan.
When the coolant temperature is below a specified
range, air pressure keeps the fan disengaged to
save engine power. When the coolant temperature
rises above the specified range, air pressure to the
fan clutch is cut off and internal spring pressure en-
gages the fan.
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem-
perature switch installed in the thermostat housing.
The temperature switch is connected to the engine
MCM, which controls the solenoid valve. When you
start a cold engine, the solenoid valve allows air
pressure to the fan clutch and the clutch remains dis-
engaged. When the coolant temperature rises to the
temperature switch setting, the switch provides
power to the solenoid valve and the valve cuts off
compressed air to engage the fan.
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
receiver-drier. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
power to the solenoid valve, which cuts off air to the
fan clutch, engaging the fan.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires.
2. Tilt the hood.
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys-
tem or disconnecting an air line because dirt and
sludge could fly out at high speeds. Don’t direct
the airstreams at anyone. Do not disconnect
pressurized air lines, as they may whip as air es- 06/27/95 f200319
capes. Failure to take all necessary precautions
could result in personal injury. Fig. 1, Line Up the Access Holes
3. Drain the air tanks. 8. Remove the air pressure from the fan clutch, and
4. Disconnect the air line from the fan clutch. allow the fan to engage.
5. Remove the upper fan shroud as follows. 9. Remove the allen screws holding the fan clutch
to the fan hub.
5.1 Place alignment marks on the upper and
lower fan shrouds, and mark the shroud- 10. Remove the fan clutch from the fan clutch hub. It
to-channel positions, so the shroud can be may be necessary to gently pry the clutch from
installed in the same position on the radia- the hub.
tor.
5.2 Remove the four fasteners that connect Installation
the upper and lower fan shrouds.
IMPORTANT: A new coupler must be used when
5.3 Remove the fasteners that hold the upper installing the clutch onto the hub.
fan shrouds to the radiator.
1. Install the fan clutch onto the fan clutch hub.
5.4 Remove the upper fan shroud from the
vehicle. 1.1 Install a new coupler onto the fan hub.
6. Remove the fasteners that hold the fan to the fan 1.2 Position the fan clutch onto the fan hub,
clutch, then remove the fan. then push it toward the rear of the vehicle
and rotate the clutch until the flats of the
coupler engage the fan clutch.
WARNING
1.3 Line up the access holes in the clutch with
If the fan clutch engages during the next step, it the holes for the allen screws in the clutch
could cause personal injury. Keep the fan clutch hub.
disengaged throughout this procedure by main-
taining between 90 and 120 psi (620 and 827 kPa) 1.4 Install the allen screws, and tighten them
of air pressure. 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m).
7. Align the access holes in the fan clutch with the 2. Install the fan.
allen screws on the fan hub. See Fig. 1. 3. Connect the air line to the fan clutch.
7.1 Using shop air and a suitable nozzle at- 4. Position the upper fan shroud on the radiator;
tachment, apply between 90 and 120 psi align the marks, then install the fasteners that
(620 and 827 kPa) of air pressure to the hold it to the radiator and the lower fan shroud.
fan clutch to disengage the clutch.
7.2 Line up the access holes.
Rebuild
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires. 1
2. Remove the fan clutch from the vehicle. For in-
structions, refer to Subject 100.
06/26/95 f200317
NOTICE 1. Support 2. Compressor
When caging and compressing the engagement
spring of the fan clutch, depress the clutch shaft Fig. 1, Special Tools
only enough to relieve the pressure on the retain-
ing plates (about 1/16-inch, or 1.5 mm). Applying
additional force after the clutch shaft bottoms in
the housing will damage the housing and render
it unserviceable.
1
NOTE: There are two methods of caging the
engagement spring. One uses the special tools
and a press. The other uses carriage bolts,
washers, and wingnuts. Either method is effec-
tive.
2
3. Cage the engagement spring.
If using the special support and compressor
tools, place the fan clutch in a press to cage the 08/30/2000 f200318a
engagement spring. See Fig. 2. 1. Compressor Tool 2. Support Tool
If using the optional method of caging the en-
Fig. 2, Caging the Engagement Spring and Removing
gagement spring, do the following:
the Lining Retaining Plates
3.1 With the access holes in the housing as-
sembly aligned with those in the shaft as-
22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
NOTICE
Do not press on the cylinder during this step, or
the cylinder will be damaged. Use a 5/8-inch
wrench as shown in Fig. 4 on the piston rod flats.
5. If applicable, turn the clutch over in the press,
and use the special compressor tool to cage the
engagement spring while removing the cylinder
nut and cylinder. See Fig. 4.
6. Inspect the fan clutch. See Fig. 3
6.1 Inspect the two surfaces where the lining
rides. 06/26/95 f200320
• The piston seal (pack the seal groove also) 11. Tighten the lining screws 30 lbf·in (340 N·cm).
• The dust seal (pack the seal groove also) 12. As applicable, remove the fan clutch from the
press or remove the carriage bolts, washers, and
• The needle bearings inside the housing wing nuts.
• The inside of the engagement spring 13. Check the front-to-rear travel of the fan clutch.
• The outside of the piston rod assembly For instructions, refer to Group 20 in the 108SD
and 114SD Maintenance Manual.
• The inside of the piston rod assembly
14. Install the fan clutch on the engine. For instruc-
• The inside of the cylinder assembly tions, refer to Subject 100.
• Pack the lip of the grease seal
NOTICE
When caging and compressing the engagement
spring of the fan clutch, depress the clutch shaft
only enough to relieve the pressure on the retain-
ing plates (about 1/16-inch, or 1.5 mm). Applying
additional force after the clutch shaft bottoms in
the housing will damage the housing and render
it unserviceable.
IMPORTANT: When caging the engagment
spring, compress the clutch shaft only 1/16-inch
(1.5 mm).
9. Assemble the fan clutch parts according to
Fig. 3. Using either the special tools and a
press, or carriage bolts, washers, and wingnuts,
cage the engagement spring when installing the
cylinder and lining. Be careful to depress the
clutch shaft only 1/16-inch (1.5 mm).
The piston rod seal washer is the last item to
install before the cylinder goes on. See Fig. 5.
Relining 9. Remove the air pressure from the fan clutch, and
allow the fan to engage.
IMPORTANT: Premature wearing of the fan 10. Disconnect the shop air, and connect the air line
clutch lining is due to either insufficient air pres- to the fan drive.
sure necessary to fully disengage the clutch (al-
lowing the clutch to remain partially engaged,
thus increasing wear), or a problem in the con-
trol circuit for the fan. Before putting the fan
clutch back in service, check the fan control and
air supply systems and make any necessary re-
pairs.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brake, and shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
WARNING
If the fan clutch engages during the next step, it
could cause personal injury. Keep the fan clutch
disengaged throughout this procedure by main-
taining between 90 and 120 psi (620 and 827 kPa)
of air pressure.
2. Bleed all the air from the primary and secondary
tanks.
3. Disconnect the air line from the fan drive, and
apply 90 to 110 psi (620 to 760 kPa) shop air
pressure to the fan drive.
4. Remove the six lining plate screws, and remove
the three lining plates. See Fig. 1.
5. Remove the old lining. If the lining sticks, use a
hammer and a screwdriver to free it by tapping
on the dividing cut in the lining.
6. Inspect the clutch shaft. If lining residue is
present, or if the surface appears glazed over
(non-metallic), temporarily release the air pres-
sure from the clutch to allow shaft to protrude,
and use a ScotchBrite to break the glaze.
NOTE: Some applications may be too tight to
spread the lining and slip it over the pulley. If
necessary, the lining can be cut in half with a
hacksaw for installation.
7. Apply air pressure to the clutch again, and install
the new lining. See Fig. 2.
8. Install the new lining plates. Tighten the screws
30 lbf·in (340 N·cm).
22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
06/26/95 f200324
If the lubricant that comes with the rebuild kit for the • Chevron SR12
Kysor K26RA fan clutch is unavailable, use one of • Amoco Rykon Premium #2EP
the following approved lubricants:
• Texaco RB Premium
• Aeroshell 5
• Shell Alvania R3
2
1 5
4
3
2
1
06/16/97 f250431
2 3
1
4
E
AC
PL
RE
06/23/97 f250424
1. Clutch Cover 3. Intermediate Plate
2. Rear Driven Disc 4. Front Driven Disc
E
AC
EPL
NE R
W
06/04/97 f250428
Removal
NOTICE 06/04/97 f250428
For proper reinstallation of the Solo clutch, the With the clutch pedal down, set the tab to the NEW po-
wear indicating tab must be reset. Failure to reset sition on the indicator.
this tab will prevent clutch release and result in 1. Clutch Cover 2. Wear Indicating Tab
possible clutch damage.
Fig. 1, Resetting the Wear Indicating Tab
NOTE: This step requires two persons: one
under the vehicle with access to the wear indi-
cating tab, and the other in the vehicle to press NOTICE
the clutch pedal. Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
1. Reset the wear indicating tab with the clutch in do not let the transmission hang unsupported in
the vehicle, as follows. the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking
these precautions will prevent bending and dis-
1.1 From inside the cab, press the clutch tortion of the clutch discs.
pedal all the way down. Hold the clutch
pedal down until the wear indicating tab is 3. Remove the clutch brake from the transmission
reset. input shaft. See Fig. 2.
NOTICE
When removing the transmission from a vehicle
equipped with a hydraulic clutch control system,
disconnect the clutch grease tube to avoid com-
ponent damage.
NOTE: Before pulling the transmission from the 03/01/94 f250163a
bell housing, disconnect the external clutch link- Fig. 2, Clutch Brake Removal
age and rotate the release yoke so the yoke will
clear the release bearing when it is removed. 4. Install a spline aligning tool into the release bear-
ing assembly, and through the driven discs. See
2. Remove the transmission. See Section 26.00.
E
AC
PL
RE
3
REP
10/10/95 f250313
07/30/2009 f250671
Fig. 6, Installing Guide Studs
NOTE: For a 14-inch clutch, the pressure plate will be
NOTE: Mark the positions of the clutch compo- reset when it is 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) below the mounting
nents so they can be properly oriented during surface of the clutch cover. For a 15.5-inch clutch, the
pressure plate will be reset when it is 1.75 to 1.78
installation. inches (44.4 to 45.2 mm) below the mounting surface of
the clutch cover.
WARNING A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) for 14-inch clutches; 1.75 to
1.78 inches (44.4 to 45.2 mm) for 15.5-inch clutches
The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
1. Mounting Surface 2. Pressure Plate
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
Fig. 7, Reset Pressure Plate
could cause serious personal injury.
8. Remove the mounting capscrews, and carefully
remove the clutch assembly together with the
spline aligning tool.
9. Reset the pressure plate, as follows. See Fig. 7.
9.1 Progressively tighten the four shipping
bolts in a crisscross pattern.
9.2 Measure the depth of the pressure plate,
as follows.
For a 14-inch clutch, the pressure plate is
reset when the face of the pressure plate
is 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) below the mount-
ing surface of the clutch cover.
For a 15.5-inch clutch, the pressure plate
is reset when the face of the pressure
plate is 1.75 to 1.78 inches (44.4 to 45.2
mm) below the mounting surface of the
clutch cover.
NOTE: Resetting the pressure plate will allow
the clutch to release after installation.
10. Use an appropriate puller to remove the pilot
bearing. Inspect the old pilot bearing for any un-
usual wear or damage. Discard the pilot bearing.
0
04/30/2003 f250168b
05/01/2003 f250615
Secure the dial indicator to the outer diameter of the
flywheel, with the gauge finger against the face of the
flywheel housing.
Fig. 5, Measuring the Flywheel Housing Face
E
AC
PL
NE RE
W
06/04/97 f250428
E
AC
PL
RE
1. Clutch Cover 2. Wear Indicating Tab
03/02/2010 f250676
For 15.5-inch clutches, install four 7/16–14 x
1-3/4 shipping bolts (if available) or hexhead ma-
Fig. 7, Installed Shipping Bolts chine screws into the four clutch cover holes,
and tighten them finger-tight plus one full turn.
NOTE: You may need to temporarily install
slightly longer bolts to allow access of the ship-
ping bolts.
6. Reset the pressure plate, as follows.
6.1 Progressively tighten the four shipping
bolts in a crisscross pattern.
6.2 Measure the depth of the pressure plate.
See Fig. 10.
For 14-inch clutches, the pressure plate is
reset when the face of the pressure plate
is 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) below the mount-
ing surface of the clutch cover.
For 15.5-inch clutches, the pressure plate
is reset when the face of the pressure
plate is 1.75 to 1.78 inches (44.4 to 45.2
mm) below the mounting surface of the
clutch cover.
06/05/97 f250430
1
3
2
A
07/30/2009 f250671
A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) for 14-inch clutches; 1.75 to 1
03/01/94 f250017a
1.78 inches (44.4 to 45.2 mm) for 15.5-inch clutches
1. Mating Surfaces
1. Mounting Surface 2. Pressure Plate 2. Engine Flywheel Housing
3. Transmission Bell Housing
Fig. 10, Reset Pressure Plate
Fig. 11, Inspecting the Mating Surfaces
1. Install a new pilot bearing. Be sure that the pilot
bearing has a press-fit in the flywheel.
A
NOTICE 12
Tap on the outer race only. Tapping on the inner
race could damage the pilot bearing.
NOTE: To discourage warranty claims for drag 9 3
or clutch noise, use a premium grade C3/C4
pilot bearing. Due to increased operating tem-
peratures and longer clutch life, the standard
6 B
pilot bearings and grease are no longer accept-
able. 03/01/94 f250169a
3. Check the flywheel housing for wear caused by 4. Inspect the flywheel, as follows. Replace or re-
the bell housing pilot (projecting lip of the bell pair the flywheel if the wear is extreme.
housing). The correct dimension is 1/8-inch (3.2- 4.1 Visually inspect the friction surface of the
mm). Wear is most likely to appear between the flywheel for heat checks and scoring.
3 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. See Fig. 12.
4.2 Measure the friction surface wear with a
NOTE: The pilot (lip) of the bell housing can straightedge and feeler gauge. For instruc-
wear into the flywheel housing. This can be tions, see the engine manufacturer’s
caused by the transmission loosening up, or by manual.
road and engine vibration after high mileage.
5. Inspect the input shaft, both the splined and the
smooth area, as follows. See Fig. 13.
1
2
2
3
4 1
08/20/2009 f250672
B C
2
08/05/2010 f250678
A. Cross section of clutch brake C. Install shallow side toward the transmission
B. Install deep side toward release bearing
1. Clutch Brake 2. Input Shaft
Installation
1. Do the clutch pre-installation procedures in Sub-
ject 110.
2. If not already in place, install two 3/8–16 x 3
guide studs in the two upper mounting holes of
the flywheel. See Fig. 1.
03/01/94 f250216a
03/01/94 f250034a
Fig. 2, Install the Intermediate Plate
Fig. 1, Guide Studs, Installed
disc marked PRESSURE PLATE SIDE facing the
3. If the clutch is new, remove any protective coat- pressure plate, install the rear driven disc. See
ing applied to the pressure plate and the inter- Fig. 3.
mediate plate.
9. Make sure that the ceramic buttons on each disc
4. Insert an aligning tool through the splines of the are as closely aligned as possible. See Fig. 4.
front disc and, with the side marked FLYWHEEL
SIDE facing the flywheel, install the front driven NOTE: Aligning the discs aids the function of
disc on the flywheel. the separator pins.
IMPORTANT: The drivestraps of the intermedi- 10. With the aligning tool still in place, slide the
ate plate must face the pressure plate. cover assembly over the aligning tool and the
two guide studs until it rests against the interme-
5. Install the intermediate plate assembly over the diate plate assembly.
two guide studs and slide it forward until it
touches the flywheel. Make sure the side marked 11. Install the clutch mounting capscrews, as follows.
PRESSURE PLATE SIDE faces the pressure See Fig. 5 for the tightening sequence.
plate. See Fig. 2.
6. Make sure the separator pins protrude toward NOTICE
the flywheel side. The pins should be flush on If the capscrews are not tightened in sequence, it
the pressure-plate side. may cause permanent damage to the clutch
7. Remove the aligning tool. cover and create an out-of-balance condition.
8. Insert the aligning tool through the splines of the 11.1 Start six 3/8–16 (grade 5 or better) mount-
rear driven disc and, with the side of the rear ing capscrews with lockwashers, and
tighten them finger-tight.
7
2
3
6
5
4
1
8
06/16/97 f250442a
2
1
E
06/12/97 f250439 RE
PL
AC
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when tapping the pins. If 1
any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
of metal could cause eye injury.
NOTE: Only a small portion of each separator
pin is visible through the access hole. See 3
Fig. 7 and Fig. 8.
14. To ensure that all four separator pins are flush
against the flywheel, insert a 1/4-inch (6-mm)
diameter flat-nose punch through the access
holes and lightly tap each of them toward the 2
flywheel. See Fig. 9.
06/12/97 f250438
NOTE: Only a small portion of the pin is visible through
the access hole.
1. Access Hole 3. Separator Pin
2. Clutch Cover
RE
PL
AC
E
06/02/97 f250417
1
2
08/20/2009 f250672
NOTICE
Do not excessively force the transmission into
the clutch assembly or engine housing. If it does
not enter freely, investigate the cause of the
problem and then make any necessary changes.
Do not let the transmission drop or hang unsup-
ported in the driven discs. If this should occur,
the rear disc will become bent or distorted, caus-
ing the clutch to drag (not release).
19. Install the transmission and attach the clutch link-
age. For instructions, see Group 26.
20. Lubricate the release bearing. Eaton Fuller rec-
ommends a lithium-base grease that can operate
up to at least 325°F (163°C) and meets the NLGI
Grade 1 or 2 specification.
Installation
1. Do the clutch pre-installation procedures in Sub-
ject 110 before installing the clutch.
2. If not already installed, insert two 7/16–14 x 5
guide studs in the upper mounting holes of the
E
LAC
flywheel. See Fig. 1. Rotate the flywheel to level
REP
the guide studs.
06/02/97 f250419
03/01/94 f250034a
WARNING
The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
A the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
7. Position the clutch over the two guide studs, and
slide the assembly forward until contact is made
with the flywheel surface. See Fig. 6.
03/03/2010 f250677
The separator pins should protrude to the flywheel side.
A. Flywheel Side
06/02/97 f250422
06/02/97 f250423
6 2
4 03/02/2010 f250676
7
Fig. 9, Installed Shipping Bolts
8
E
3
REP
1
2
RE
PL
AC
E
08/20/2009 f250672
06/02/97 f250417
1. Release Fork Finger 3. Release Fork
Fig. 10, Separator Pin Access Holes 2. Release Bearing 4. Input Shaft
NOTICE
Do not excessively force the transmission into
REPLACE
When there is excessive free pedal, try resetting the a hand tool to tighten them until the gap is re-
clutch. moved and the bolts are snug.
For a 15.5-inch clutch, install four 7/16–14 x
Resetting 1-3/4 shipping bolts (if available) or hexhead ma-
chine screws into the four clutch cover holes,
NOTE: This procedure requires two persons; and use a hand tool to tighten them until the gap
one under the vehicle with access to the wear is removed and the bolts are snug.
indicating tab, and the other in the vehicle to 6. Remove the bolts.
operate the clutch pedal.
7. Press the clutch pedal all the way down, and
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down squeeze the clutch brake five times to reposition
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the the bearing.
tires.
NOTE: The release bearing travel tool A02–
2. Inside the cab, press the clutch pedal all the way 12419 may be used in the following step. This
down, and hold it there until instructed to release tool is available through the PDCs.
it later in this procedure.
8. Measure the distance between the clutch brake
3. Through the clutch cover inspection panel, use and the release bearing. It should be between
moderate force to slide the wear indicating tab 0.49 and 0.56 inch (12.5 to 14.2 mm). If it is not
leftward until it is at the NEW position on the in- within this range, refer to the literature available
dicator. See Fig. 1. If the tab does not move, use on the Roadranger website, www.roadranger-
the clutch reset tool as described later in this .com.
subject.
If you are using the release bearing travel tool
A02–12419 (see Fig. 3) for this measurement,
position it so that the legs at the blue 0.56-inch
1 (14.3-mm) end straddle the transmission input
shaft. If it fits loosely, the gap is too wide. If it
E does not fit in the gap, try inserting the green
AC
PL 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the green end of the
NE RE
W tool fits, snug or loose, then no adjustment is
needed. If the gap is too wide or the green end
2 does not fit in the gap, refer to literature available
on the Roadranger website, www.roadranger-
.com.
1
1
1
A
2
1 3
1
4
08/02/2006 f250655
NOTE: The bell housing is shown transparent to provide a clear view of clutch components.
A. Gap Between the Sleeve and the Pin
1. Bolt 3. Pin 4. Access Panel
2. Sleeve
Fig. 2, Removing the Gap Between the Sleeve and the Pin
08/02/2006
1 f250656
f580427
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Release Completely
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Release Completely
Possible Cause Remedy
The clutch pedal height is incorrect. Make adjustments to obtain the following settings:
• 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) release bearing travel;
• 1/2 to 1 inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) clutch brake squeeze.
For clutches with mechanical linkage, also make adjustments to obtain 0.105
to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm) release yoke free-travel. (Clutches with hydraulic
linkage will have constant contact between the yoke and clutch bearing pads.)
The bushing in the release bearing sleeve Replace the clutch cover.
assembly is damaged.
The clutch cover assembly is not properly Re-seat the clutch cover assembly into the flywheel. Use a crisscross pattern
seated into the flywheel. when tightening the mounting bolts.
The intermediate plate and/or pressure Replace any damaged parts.
plate is cracked or broken.
The cross shafts protrude through the re- Check for protruding cross shafts. Repair or replace as necessary.
lease yoke (a side-loading condition ex-
ists).
The release yoke fingers are bent or worn Install a new release yoke.
(a side-loading condition exists).
The engine housing and bell housing are Check for loose transmission mounting bolts. Tighten the transmission mount-
misaligned (a side-loading condition ex- ing bolts to the proper torque.
ists).
The clutch linkage is set up improperly (a Thoroughly examine the clutch linkage and adjust as necessary.
side-loading condition exists).
The driven discs are distorted or warped. Replace any distorted or warped driven discs. If the transmission is allowed to
hang unsupported during clutch installation, the driven discs may become dis-
torted.
The driven discs are installed backwards, Install new driven discs. Also, check the clutch cover for any damage. Replace
or the front and rear driven discs were the clutch cover if damaged.
switched with each other.
The input shaft spline is worn. Replace the input shaft. Also, check the driven disc hubs for wear. Replace
the driven discs if worn.
The input shaft spline is coated with Clean and dry the input shaft spline before installation.
grease, anti-seize compound, etc.
The input shaft splines are twisted. Select a new driven disc and slide it along the full length of the splines. If the
disc does not slide freely, replace the input shaft.
The input-shaft bearing cap is worn. Replace the input-shaft bearing.
The flywheel pilot bearing fits either too Check the pilot bearing for proper fit and replace it if worn.
tight or too loose in the flywheel and/or
end of input shaft.
The pilot bearing is dry or damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.
General Information
The clutch linkage transfers the motion of the clutch
pedal to the clutch release bearing.
Free play in the clutch pedal is required to ensure
that the fingers of the release bearing do not run
against the release bearing. There should not be any
play or looseness in the connections and joints of the
clutch linkage.
There are two types of clutches: the pull-type and the
push-type.
• On push-type clutches, depressing the clutch
pedal moves the release bearing toward the
engine flywheel. As the clutch is depressed,
the pressure plate moves away from the driven
disc assembly, and the clutch is disengaged.
As the clutch pedal is released, the release
bearing and clutch levers move away from the
engine flywheel. This locks the driven disc be-
tween the friction surfaces of the pressure
plate and the engine flywheel. The clutch is
then engaged.
• On pull-type clutches, depressing the clutch
pedal moves the release bearing away from
the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch. As
the clutch pedal is released, the pressure plate
is forced toward the engine flywheel until the
driving and driven discs turn at the same
speeds, engaging the clutch.
IMPORTANT: On pull-type clutches, release
bearing and release fork clearance are internal
clutch adjustments, and can not be adjusted by
adjusting the clutch linkage. For internal clutch
adjustments, see the clutch manufacturer’s ser-
vice literature.
3
2
4 1
5
6
7 8
09/12/2002 f250596
1. Clutch Pedal 6. Jam Nut
2. Return Spring 7. Clutch Rod
3. Spring Bracket 8. Lower Lever Arm Nut
4. Upper Lever Arm 9. Lower Lever Arm
5. Upper Lever Arm Nut
General Information
The hydraulic clutch control system consists of a 1
pedal unit and a slave cylinder, connected by a hy-
draulic hose that is fastened with quick-disconnect 6
5
clips. See Fig. 1. The hydraulic system is self-
adjusting, and it uses DOT 4 brake fluid.
The pedal unit includes a hydraulic subassembly,
composed of the master cylinder and reservoir, which A
can be removed from the pedal unit for service pur-
poses; see Subject 110 for instructions.
Principles of Operation
When the clutch pedal is pressed, the fluid in the
master cylinder is forced through a hydraulic line to
the slave cylinder. The fluid pressure moves the 2
slave cylinder piston, pushing the plunger rod and
clutch release lever, which disengages the clutch.
3
Clutches
The hydraulic system has been designed to work
with three types of clutches: adjustment-free, manu-
ally adjusted, and self adjusting. Check the adjust-
ment of manually adjusted clutches regularly. 4
NOTICE 2
Clutch hydraulic fluid (DOT 4 brake fluid) is haz- 4.2 Allow the open end of the drain hose to
ardous. It may be a skin irritant and can cause remain over the drain pan.
blindness if it gets in your eyes. Always wear 4.3 Press down on the pedal several times,
safety glasses when handling clutch hydraulic until no more fluid drains from the pedal
fluid or bleeding hydraulic lines. If you get clutch unit.
hydraulic fluid on your skin, wash it off as soon
as possible. 4.4 Cover the hose to avoid contamination of
the hydraulic fluid.
1. Shut down the engine. 5. Disconnect the clutch control electrical connector
2. Apply the parking brakes, chock the front and located under the dash above the clutch pedal.
rear tires, and open the hood. 6. Remove the rubber pedal pad from the pedal.
3. Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the quick- Retain the pedal pad for later installation.
disconnect clamp that attaches the hydraulic 7. Loosen the four mounting plate capscrews at-
hose to the pedal unit. See Fig. 1. Retain the taching the pedal unit to the frontwall.
clamp for later installation.
8. After bracing the pedal unit so that it does not
fall, remove the four mounting plate capscrews.
Retain the capscrews for later installation.
1
WARNING
Do not attempt to disassemble the preloaded as-
sist spring. Sudden release of the assist spring
could cause property damage and serious per-
sonal injury.
9. Remove the pedal unit from the vehicle. Drain
any remaining fluid and discard the gasket.
2 IMPORTANT: Handle the pedal unit carefully to
prevent spillage.
3
Installation
A 1. Mount the pedal unit on the frontwall, as re-
moved. Install a new gasket.
09/12/2001 f261135 2. Install the four mounting plate capscrews and
A. To Slave Cylinder tighten them 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
1. Frontwall 3. Hydraulic Hose
2. Pedal Unit
3. Fit the rubber pedal pad over the pedal.
4. Connect the hydraulic hose to the pedal unit.
Fig. 1, Pedal Unit and Hose
5. Install the clamp, as removed.
4. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the entire system.
5.1 Install the clamp in the recessed area on
the nozzle of the master cylinder.
WARNING
Use only approved clutch hydraulic fluid (DOT 4
brake fluid). Do not mix different types of brake
fluid. The wrong fluid will damage the rubber
parts of the system, causing loss of clutch func-
tion and the risk of serious personal injury.
6. Fill the reservoir with approved DOT 4 hydraulic
brake fluid and bleed the system according to
the procedures in Subject 140.
7. Connect the clutch control electrical connector,
and check the function of the clutch actuation
system according to the procedures under the
heading "Clutch Actuation System Check" in
Troubleshooting, 300.
Replacement
1. Place a suitable container under the master cyl-
inder to collect the fluid that will drain as the
hose is removed from the master cylinder.
2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver to remove the quick-
disconnect clip that locks the hydraulic hose into
the master cylinder. See Fig. 1. Remove the
hose and, with the end pointing upwards to pre-
vent fluid spillage, secure it temporarily to a safe
point on the vehicle. Retain the clip for later in-
stallation. 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10/21/2002 f250598
1. Piston 6. Hydraulic Body
3 2. Lip Seal 7. Base
3. Reservoir O-Ring 8. Screw
4. Reservoir 9. Clip
5. Body O-Ring
3. Drain the fluid from the master cylinder. 8. Lubricate the new O-rings and the O-ring seats
in the new reservoir and hydraulic body.
4. Remove the two screws that attach the hydraulic
subassembly to the mounting plate. See Fig. 2. 9. Put the reservoir and hydraulic body together
with the O-rings properly seated and lubricated.
B
06/24/2011 f250689
A. Correct Installation
B. Incorrect Installation
WARNING
Use only approved clutch hydraulic fluid (DOT 4
brake fluid). Do not mix different types of brake
fluid. The wrong fluid will damage the rubber
parts of the system, causing loss of clutch func-
tion and the risk of serious personal injury.
1
2
3
1
2
3
6
10
8
12/11/2001 f250582
Mount the slave cylinder with the bleed valve on top of the unit and horizontal to the ground.
1. Clamp Mounting Bolt, 1/4–20 6. Hydraulic Hose
2. Steel-Plated Washer 7. Slave Cylinder
3. Locknut, 1/4–20 8. Bleed Valve
4. Bell Housing Standoff Bracket 9. Bell Housing
5. Slave Cylinder Standoff Bracket 10. Slave Cylinder Mounting Capscrew, M8
Special Tools
A special tool is used for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tool
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580335
NOTE: To check tool availability, and to order NOTE: Do not grease the guide of the release
tools, call SPX Kent-Moore at 1-800-328-6657. bearing. Greasing it would attract dirt particles
that lead to excessive wear.
Removal 2. Insert the centering pin (Table 1) into the pilot
bearing. Then, with the clutch disc assembly ori-
1. Remove the transmission from the engine. ented so the side marked "flywheel side" faces
the flywheel, center the disc assembly on the
• For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz Au- flywheel.
tomated Transmission, see Sec-
tion 26.03, Subject 100. IMPORTANT: Do not remove the centering pin
until the clutch is completely installed.
• For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz
Manual Transmission, see Sec- 3. Install "guide pins" at the 10 o’clock and 2
tion 26.04, Subject 100. o’clock positions to ensure proper centering of
the clutch cover assembly. See Fig. 2.
2. Insert the centering pin (Table 1) through the
clutch disc and into the pilot bearing. "Guide pins" are long, headless capscrews that
are temporarily installed in the flywheel to sup-
IMPORTANT: The clutch is under tension. If one port the weight of the clutch, allowing you to
capscrew is loosened too much, it places too align it precisely with the flywheel. Without guide
much tension on the cover assembly. pins, proper clutch installation is extremely diffi-
3. Remove the cover assembly. See Fig. 1. In a cult. If necessary, cut off the heads of two 6-inch
star pattern, incrementally loosen the capscrews; (15 cm) capscrews to make a set.
take care not to loosen any one capscrew too 4. Install the cover assembly, as follows.
much before loosening the next one.
IMPORTANT: Never allow the diaphragm
4. Remove the clutch disc assembly. spring to rest on the centering pin.
4.1 Slide the clutch cover assembly onto the
Installation guide pins, and position it inside the
raised rim of the flywheel. See Fig. 3.
1. Grease the splines of the input shaft and the hub
of the disc assembly. Remove any excess 4.2 Ensure the cover assembly is situated
grease. completely within the rim of the flywheel
4
3
2
09/23/2005 f250626
1. Disc Assembly 4. Clutch Capscrews, 3/8–16 x 5. Input Shaft
2. Cover Assembly 13/16 6. Release Bearing
3. Washer
and not overlapping it. Use a flashlight to more tension on one side of the clutch
help verify the positioning if needed. than the other.
4.3 Install and hand-tighten six of the eight 5. When all capscrews have been tightened, re-
capscrews using the sequence shown in move the centering pin.
Fig. 4 (skipping the guide pin positions). 6. Install the transmission on the engine.
4.4 Remove the two guide pins, then install • For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz Au-
and hand-tighten the remaining two cap- tomated Transmission, see Sec-
screws. tion 26.03, Subject 100.
4.5 Using the sequence shown in Fig. 4, • For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz
tighten the eight clutch capscrews pro- Manual Transmission, see Sec-
gressively: first to 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m), and tion 26.04, Subject 100.
finally to 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m). Do not put
6 2
2
2
4
7
8 3
1
11/02/2005 f250625
1. Centering Pin 2. Guide Pin 08/20/2008 1 5 f250668
2
08/20/2008 f250669
1. Flywheel 2. Flywheel Rim
Bleeding 2
Pressure Bleeding
A pressure bleeder hose (J-29532) and a bleed
adaptor (J-35798) for the fluid reservoir are available
through SPX Kent-Moore Tools and may be used to
complete the pressure bleeding procedure. To order
these parts, call Kent-Moore at 1-800-328-6657.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Open the hood.
3. Prepare the pressure bleeding equipment ac-
06/27/2011 f250688
cording to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use
new DOT 4 brake fluid from a tightly sealed con- 1. Frontwall 2. Reservoir
tainer. Pressurize the bleed adaptor to 15 psi
(103 kPa). Fig. 1, Master Cylinder, Hydraulic Clutch Control
4. Remove the reservoir cap (see Fig. 1) and install 6.3 When the draining fluid is clear and free of
the pressure bleed adaptor on the reservoir. air bubbles, close the bleed valve.
1
2
3
1
2
3
6
10
8
12/11/2001 f250582
1. Clamp Mounting Bolt, 1/4–20 6. Hydraulic Hose
2. Steel-Plated Washer 7. Slave Cylinder
3. Locknut, 1/4–20 8. Bleed Valve
4. Bell Housing Standoff Bracket 9. Bell Housing
5. Slave Cylinder Standoff Bracket 10. Slave Cylinder Mounting Capscrew, M8
Manual Bleeding
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Open the hood.
NOTE: The hydraulic system holds approxi-
mately 0.5 quart (0.5 liter) of fluid. It may need
to be refilled during the bleeding process to pre-
vent air from re-entering the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap (see Fig. 1) and fill
the reservoir with new DOT 4 brake fluid from a
tightly sealed container.
4. Remove the cap from the bleed valve of the
slave cylinder. See Fig. 2. On the valve, install a
transparent drain hose connected to a catch
bottle. The hose needs to fit the bleed valve tight
enough so it does not fall off when fluid is
pumped out.
5. Open the slave cylinder bleed valve. Observe the
flow of clutch hydraulic fluid through the drain
hose.
6. Have an assistant slowly pump the clutch pedal
to purge the fluid/air mixture.
7. When the draining fluid is clear and free of air
bubbles, close the bleed valve.
8. Disconnect the transparent hose. Tighten the
bleed valve 88 lbf·in (1000 N·cm) and install the
cap on the slave cylinder bleed valve.
9. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If neces-
sary, add or drain fluid to bring the fluid level to
between the MIN and MAX lines marked on the
side of the reservoir. Install the reservoir cap.
10. Depress the clutch pedal a few times. There
should be resistance over the full pedal stroke.
2 3
10/27/2005 f250631
09/28/2005 f250624
A. Position the stop pin at 12 o’clock between the
arms of the release yoke.
1. Release Bearing 3. Release Yoke
2. Capscrew 4. Input Shaft
05/07/2007 f250661
1. Hydraulic Hose
2. Quick-Disconnect Clip
3. Master Cylinder
Replacement
1
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires. A
5. Mount the new switch assembly on the connec- Fig. 2, Clutch Control Switch Connector
tor and tighten the M5 screw 23 lbf·in (260
N·cm).
6. Check the function of the clutch actuation system
as instructed in Subject 300.
2
3
1
06/22/2011 f250687
1. Frontwall
2. Clutch Control Switch
3. Screw
Special Tools
A special tool is used for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tool
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580335
Removal
1. Remove the transmission from the engine.
• For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz Au-
tomated Transmission, see Sec-
tion 26.03, Subject 100.
• For instructions for the Mercedes-Benz
Manual Transmission, see Sec-
tion 26.04, Subject 100.
2. Insert the centering pin (Table 1) through the
clutch disc and into the pilot bearing.
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the stop bolt. Also, 09/26/2005 f250628
forgetting to loosen this bolt may cause internal
Fig. 1, Stop Bolt
components to dislodge and render the clutch
unusable. NOTE: If a SACHS 395 XTend cover assembly
3. Loosen the stop bolt about two turns. See Fig. 1 is covered with oil (e.g. defective shaft seal) or
for the stop bolt location. grease, do not reinstall it—even if it has been
cleaned.
IMPORTANT: The clutch disc is under tension. If
one capscrew is loosened too much, it places
excessive tension on the cover assembly. Installation
4. Remove the cover assembly. See Fig. 2. Loosen NOTE: When replacing a SACHS 365 mm
the capscrews in a star pattern, taking care not clutch with a 395 XTend, replace the flywheel as
to loosen any one capscrew too much before
loosening the next one.
well. For instructions, see the manufacturer’s
service literature.
5. Remove the clutch disc assembly.
4
3
2
09/26/2005 f250627
1. Disc Assembly 3. Washer 5. Input Shaft
2. Cover Assembly 4. Clutch Capscrews, M10 x 80 6. Release Bearing
1. Grease the splines of the input shaft and the hub IMPORTANT: Do not remove the centering pin
of the disc assembly. Remove any excess until the clutch is completely installed.
grease.
3. Install guide pins at the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock
NOTE: Do not grease the guide of the release positions to ensure proper centering of the clutch
bearing. It is made from an advanced composite cover assembly. See Fig. 3.
with embedded lubricating elements, and greas- "Guide pins" are long, headless capscrews that
ing it would attract dirt particles that lead to ex- are temporarily installed in the flywheel to sup-
cessive wear. port the weight of the clutch, allowing you to
2. Insert the centering pin (Table 1) into the pilot align it precisely with the flywheel. Without guide
bearing. Then, with the clutch disc assembly ori- pins, proper clutch installation is extremely diffi-
ented so the side marked "flywheel side" faces cult. If necessary, cut off the heads of two 6-inch
the flywheel, center the disc assembly on the (15 cm) capscrews to make a set.
flywheel. 4. Install the cover assembly, as follows.
6 2
4
7
8 3
08/20/2008 1 5 f250668
Clutch Adjustment
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock all the tires.
2. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bell
housing. See Fig. 1.
3. Slide the clutch brake tight against the transmis-
sion input-shaft bearing cap.
IMPORTANT: Release bearing travel tool A02-
1 2
12419-000 is available through the PDCs. One 06/22/2005 f261355
end of the tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 1. Clutch Inspection Cover
inch (12.7 mm) in diameter; the other end has 2. Hydraulic Slave Cylinder
3. Transmission
blue tape on it and is 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) in
diameter. See Fig. 2. Fig. 1, View from Underneath the Vehicle Looking
4. Measure the release bearing travel. See Fig. 3 Forward
for the correct dimension to measure. Using both
ends of the release bearing travel tool, check this 5. Turn the engine flywheel until the lockstrap is
gap as follows: aligned with the clutch inspection-cover opening.
6. Release the clutch by depressing the pedal.
Position the tool so that the legs at the blue
Block the pedal in the released position, or have
0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end straddle the transmis-
someone assist you by holding the pedal down
sion input shaft. If the tool fits loosely, the gap is
during the adjustment procedure.
too wide and adjustment is needed. Go to the
next step. NOTE: An open-end wrench is not recom-
mended for the following step.
A B
A B
03/26/96 f580133
1 2
09/15/95 f250309
Diagnostic Checks
IMPORTANT: If any problems are noticed during
these diagnostic checks, take corrective action
using the information under the heading
"Troubleshooting Tables." 1 3
2
When repairing any components, bleed the clutch
hydraulic system before restoring the vehicle to ser-
vice. This will prevent air from remaining in the sys- A
tem. 3
2
Clutch Switch Check
1. Shut down the engine.
2. Apply the parking brakes, chock the front and
rear tires, and open the hood. B
3
3. Disconnect the clutch control switch connector 1
located under the dash just above the clutch
pedal.
4. To check the upper position switch, do a continu- 08/21/2003 f544352
ity check between pin 2 and pin 3 of the connec- A. Upper Position Switch–The switch is open when
tor. See Fig. 1. the pedal is pressed down about four inches (10
cm).
4.1 With the pedal not pressed, the circuit B. Lower Position Switch–The switch closes when the
should be closed (continuity should be pedal is pressed down to the floor.
present). 1. Pin 1 3. Pin 3
4.2 With the pedal pressed down about 4 2. Pin 2
inches (10 cm), the circuit should be open Fig. 1, Clutch Switch
(no indication of continuity).
5. To check the lower position switch, do a continu- Clutch Actuation System Check
ity check between pin 1 and pin 3 of the connec-
tor. WARNING
5.1 With the pedal not pressed, the circuit
should be open (no indication of continu- Air in the clutch hydraulic system can prevent
ity). the gears from engaging properly, and cause a
serious accident resulting in personal injury.
5.2 With the pedal pressed down all the way
to the floor, the circuit should be closed 1. Shut down the engine.
(continuity should be present).
2. Apply the parking brakes and chock the front and
6. If either check gives an incorrect result, replace rear tires.
the clutch switch.
3. Do the "Clutch Actuation System Leak Check."
4. Press the pedal all the way to the floor several
times and check the action of the pedal. The
pedal should be easy to operate and return with-
out difficulty to its original position. It should feel
firm and responsive, not soft or spongy.
5. With both the brake and the clutch pedals NOTE: This step requires two persons.
pressed down, start the engine.
3. Have one person press down on the clutch pedal
5.1 If the engine does not start, take correc- while the other person checks the clutch hydrau-
tive action using the information under the lic system for signs of leakage.
heading "Troubleshooting Tables."
5.2 If the clutch does not disengage properly, Clutch Incomplete
take corrective action using the informa-
tion under the heading "Troubleshooting
Disengagement Check
Tables." NOTE: Do this check only on vehicles with syn-
6. Remove the chocks from the front and rear tires. chronized transmissions.
1. Chock the front tires and apply the parking
7. Test drive the vehicle.
brake.
7.1 Check for proper clutch functioning while
2. Put the gear shift lever in neutral.
shifting gears.
3. Start the engine.
7.2 If the clutch makes noise when shifting out
of neutral into another gear, do the "Clutch 4. Press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.
Incomplete Disengagement Check."
5. Shift the transmission into 1st gear.
7.3 With cruise control on, press the clutch
pedal down. If cruise control does not de- 6. With the clutch pedal still on the floor, shift into
activate, take corrective action using the 2nd gear.
information under the heading "Trouble- 7. Listen for noise and feel for difficult shifting. If
shooting Tables." there is noise or difficulty in getting the gears to
shift, the clutch is not completely disengaged.
Clutch Actuation System Leak Take corrective action using the information un-
der the heading "Troubleshooting Tables."
Check
1. Shut down the engine. Troubleshooting Tables
2. Apply the parking brakes, chock the front and
rear tires, and open the hood.
Problem–The Clutch Pedal Feels Soft or Spongy
Problem–The Clutch Pedal Feels Soft or Spongy
Possible Cause Remedy
There is air in the hydraulic system. Bleed the hydraulic system. See Subject 140 for instructions.
There is a hydraulic fluid leak. Check the fluid level. Check for leakage and replace any components found to
be leaking. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system.
WARNING
Do not attempt to disassemble the preloaded assist spring. Sudden
release of the assist spring could cause property damage and serious
personal injury.
The pedal assembly is worn or jammed. Replace the pedal unit. See Subject 100 for instructions.
The master cylinder has components that Replace the hydraulic subassembly. See Subject 110 for instructions.
are jammed or broken.
Problem–The Clutch Does Not Completely Disengage; Shifting Is Difficult and Noisy
Problem–The Clutch Does Not Completely Disengage; Shifting Is Difficult and Noisy
Possible Cause Remedy
There is air in the hydraulic system. Bleed the hydraulic system. See Subject 140 for instructions.
There is a hydraulic fluid leak. Check the fluid level. Check for leakage and replace any components found to
be leaking. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system.
Components of the pedal unit are Replace the pedal unit. See Subject 100 for instructions.
defective.
The slave cylinder is defective. Replace the slave cylinder. See Subject 120 for instructions.
The slave cylinder is loose. Tighten the M8 slave cylinder mounting capscrews 12 lbf·ft (16 N·m).
The wrong type of brake fluid was used. Replace the complete system. Fill only with approved DOT 4 brake fluid.
WARNING
Do not attempt to disassemble the preloaded assist spring. Sudden
release of the assist spring could cause property damage and serious
personal injury.
Problem–Cruise Control or Engine Brake Does Not Deactivate When the Clutch Pedal Is Pressed Down
Problem–Cruise Control or Engine Brake Does Not Deactivate When the Clutch Pedal Is Pressed Down
Possible Cause Remedy
The upper position switch is damaged. Check switch function and make any necessary repairs. See the instructions
under the heading "Clutch Switch Check."
There has been an external electrical See Section 54.03 for instructions.
failure.
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580335
f580133a
4
3
5
8 9
13
10
11
12
08/26/2003 f261269
1. Shift Knob 5. Boot 10. Shift Linkage Adaptor
2. Retaining Ring Screw, M6 (4 6. Floor Covering 11. Shift Linkage Flange Screw, M10
qty.) 7. Cover Plate Screw, M6 (8 qty.) (2 qty.)
3. Shift Lever 8. Cover Plate 12. Shift Tower
4. Retaining Ring 9. Insulation 13. Spring Nut, 1/4–20 (8 qty.)
1
1 2 3 4 3
2
06/05/2001 f261005
1. Transmission
2. Output Yoke
3. Driveline
08/15/2003 f261270
1. Shift Tower Mounting Capscrew, 3/8–16 (4 qty.) Fig. 3, Output Yoke
2. Shift Tower
3. Shift Linkage Adaptor
4. Shift Lever 1
2
Fig. 2, Shift Linkage Connection 3
parallel (all the way around) to the flange of the
flywheel housing until the input shaft is clear of
the flywheel. Taking these precautions will pre-
vent damage to the input shaft, flywheel, and
clutch.
14. Remove the transmission. See Fig. 12.
14.1 Pull the transmission and jack straight
back until the transmission input shaft is
clear of the clutch.
4
14.2 Pull the transmission away from the ve- 08/14/2003 f261272
hicle. If there is not enough clearance to 1. Midship Bracket 3. Driveshaft
allow it to go straight out the back, use the 2. Midship Bearing 4. Jack
space behind the front wheel on the driv-
er’s side. Fig. 4, Midship Bearing Bracket
08/21/2003
3 f261271
01/28/99 f261007 1. Socket Wrench
2. Transmission Top Cover
Fig. 5, Support the Driveline 3. Gear Case
4. Bracket
Fig. 7, Fuel Line Standoff Bracket
2 4 2
3
1
08/19/2003 f261275
11/11/2003 f261273 1
1. Hydraulic Line 3. Mounting Screw
2. Slave Cylinder 4. Bell Housing
Fig. 8, Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder 2
1 1
3
4 3 2
08/15/2003 f261274
08/25/2003 f261276
1. Battery Cable Bracket
2. Engine Flywheel Housing 1. Transmission 3. Jack
3. Bell Housing 2. Chain
4. Bell Housing-to-Flywheel Housing Bolt Fig. 11, Supporting the Transmission
Fig. 9, Battery Cable Brackets
1.6 While installing the bell housing-to-
flywheel housing capscrews, also install
the battery cable brackets, as removed.
08/14/2003 f261279
Fig. 12, Remove the Transmission Fig. 13, Install the Transmission
1.7 Remove the chain securing the transmis- 4.3 Install the bolts and nuts on the midship
sion to the jack; then remove the jack. bearing bracket. Tighten the nuts 95 lbf·ft
(129 N·m).
2. Through the inspection opening in the bell hous-
ing, make sure the fingers of the release yoke 5. Install the fuel line standoff bracket and connect
are inserted into the embossed area on the re- the fuel lines to the bracket.
lease bearing housing. See Fig. 14. 6. Connect the electrical connectors. Connect the
3. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional dual electrical cable to the speedometer sensor.
fuel tanks, install the fuel cross-over line and its 7. If necessary, assemble the shift linkage. See
support between the tanks. Tighten the clamps Fig. 1.
40 lbf·ft (54 N·m) and the mounting bolts 95 lbf·ft
(129 N·m). 7.1 Before installing, apply three to four drops
of Loctite 262 (or equivalent thread-locking
4. Connect the driveshaft. compound) halfway down the threads of
4.1 Slide the front of the driveshaft into the both shift linkage flange screws.
transmission output yoke. 7.2 Attach the shift linkage adaptor to the shift
4.2 Install the U-joint end caps on the output tower. Tighten the M10 shift linkage flange
yoke. Tighten the bolt heads 50 lbf·ft (68 screw 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
N·m) for 3/8-inch end cap bolts and 110 7.3 Fit the shift lever onto the remaining hole
lbf·ft (149 N·m) for 1/2-inch end cap bolts. in the shift linkage adaptor. Tighten the
other M10 shift linkage flange screw 25
lbf·ft (34 N·m).
3 1
09/02/2003 f261278
08/14/2003 f261277 The tab on the spacer must face inboard.
The finger of the release yoke must fit as shown into 1. Slave Cylinder 3. Boot
the embossed area of the release bearing housing. 2. Spacer 4. Plunger (inside boot)
1. Bell Housing
2. Embossed Area of Release Bearing Housing Fig. 15, Slave Cylinder Installation
3. Finger of Release Yoke
10. If necessary, bleed the hydraulic clutch system.
Fig. 14, Release Yoke Alignment For detailed instructions, see Section 25.02,
Subject 140.
8. From inside the cab, install the shift tower and
shift lever, as removed, on the transmission top 11. Clean the transmission drain plug and install it
cover. See Fig. 2. on the transmission, along with a new aluminum
gasket. Tighten the drain plug 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m).
8.1 If removed, connect any electrical connec-
tors to the shift lever. 12. Add transmission fluid until it is level with the
lower edge of the fill opening. See Fig. 16 for the
8.2 Install the cover plate, with spring nuts correct level. See Group 26 of the Business
inserted, on the cab floor. Tighten the Class® M2 Maintenance Manual for approved
eight M6 cover plate screws 60 lbf·in (680 transmission lubricants and lubricant capacities.
N·cm).
8.3 Install the rubber boot and the metal re-
taining ring. Tighten the four M6 retaining
ring screws 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
8.4 Check the position of the shift lever to be
sure it is still positioned in high gear, as
removed, and that the gears shift nor-
mally. 10/05/94 A B f260006b
3
4
04/14/93 f260116a
A. To bulkhead connector
1. Transmission Wiring Harness
2. Engine Speed Sensor
3. Transmission Control Connector
4. Output Speed Sensor
5.2 Remove the transmission yoke U-joint end 7.2 Pull the fill/dipstick tube out of the trans-
caps or lock straps. Separate the driveline mission case.
from the transmission output yoke. 7.3 Plug the hole with a clean shop towel to
5.3 Remove the driveline companion flange prevent entry of foreign material.
from the transmission companion flange. 8. Disconnect the flexplate from the transmission,
as follows.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the
mounting bolts from the midship bearing
08/04/94 f260111a
09/27/2001 f261137
Fig. 3, Ring Gear Access NOTE: Rear-mounted hoses shown, but hoses may be
attached at the front of the transmission.
NOTE: For easier access on Mercedes-Benz 1. ATF Cooler Hoses
engines, first remove the three bolts that
hold the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger Fig. 4, Fluid Cooler Lines
exhaust elbow, then lower the exhaust pipe.
8.2 Using a screwdriver, turn the ring gear
until one of the capscrews that attach the
flexplate adapter to the torque converter
can be removed. Continue turning the ring
gear and removing the capscrews through
the access hole until all 12 are removed.
9. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
from the transmission, and drain the remaining
ATF. See Fig. 4.
10. Place a piece of plywood on a transmission jack
to support the transmission.
11. Slide the jack into place under the transmission.
Secure the transmission with a chain. Anchor the
chain with bolts at the front lifting bosses on the
top of the transmission. See Fig. 5. 08/04/94 f260112a
12. If equipped, remove the two bolts that attach the
transmission to the rear overslung transverse Fig. 5, Chain Around Transmission
support spring. Remove the spring. See Fig. 6. 15. Move the transmission jack to the rear. Lower
13. Remove the 12 transmission-flange bolts. See the jack and lift the vehicle, as needed, so the
Fig. 7. transmission clears the frame rail and any at-
tached components. Support the vehicle frame
14. Remove the muffler support bracket that is sup-
with jack stands.
ported by two of the companion-flange bolts.
16. Roll the transmission jack rearward, and remove • 4000 Family: 12 bolts to 27 lbf·ft (37
the transmission. N·m)
6.3 Install the access cover and its cap-
Installation screws. There are four capscrews on Cat-
erpillar engines, three capscrews on
Mercedes-Benz engines, and two on
IMPORTANT: Before installing the transmission,
Cummins and Detroit Diesel engines.
make sure the rear tires are chocked and the
7. Tighten the 12 M10 transmission-flange bolts 38 15.2 Install the fill/dipstick tube and clamp.
to 45 lbf·ft (51 to 61 N·m) in a star pattern. See Tighten the self-tapping screw until it is
Fig. 7. firmly seated, approximately 18 to 21 lbf·ft
8. If previously removed, install the transverse sup- (24 to 28 N·m).
port spring at the rear of the transmission. Install 16. Install the standoff bracket on the right side of
the two bolts and washers. Tighten the bolts 136 the transmission.
lbf·ft (184 N·m). See Fig. 6.
Make sure the air line and the wiring harness are
9. Remove the chain that holds the transmission to securely attached to the standoff bracket.
the transmission jack.
17. Connect all electrical lines to the transmission,
10. Lower the transmission jack and remove it. as follows.
11. Connect the transmission fluid cooler hoses to 17.1 Connect the transmission control connec-
the transmission, and tighten the fittings to the tor.
applicable values in Table 1. See Fig. 4.
17.2 Connect the cable to the output speed
12. Install the muffler bracket. sensor.
13. Connect the driveshaft, as follows. 17.3 Connect the cable to the engine speed
13.1 Slide the front of the driveshaft into the sensor.
transmission output yoke. 17.4 Using tie straps, secure the cables where
13.2 Install the transmission yoke U-joint end necessary.
caps and lock straps. 18. Fill the transmission with ATF.
13.3 If the midship bearing bracket bolts and 19. Connect the batteries.
nuts were removed, install them. Tighten
the nuts 95 lbf·ft (129 N·m). 20. Start the engine, and check for any leaks. Repair
leaks as needed.
14. On Mercedes-Benz engines, if the exhaust pipe
was disconnected from the turbocharger exhaust 21. Check the ATF level. Add fluid as needed.
elbow, connect the pipe and tighten the bolts 60 22. Remove the chocks from the tires.
lbf·ft (81 N·m).
23. Road test the vehicle, and check for correct
15. Install the ATF fill/dipstick tube, as follows. transmission operation.
15.1 Inspect the fill/dipstick tube seal. Replace
it if damaged.
Replacement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, apply the parking brake, and chock
the tires.
1
WARNING
Drain the coolant system only when the coolant 2
10/05/2001 f261140
and engine are cool. Draining it when these are
1. Cooler Fitting (welded to cooler)
hot could cause severe personal injury due to 2. Transmission Hose
scalding.
2. With the engine cool, loosen the surge tank cap Fig. 1, ATF Hose Connection at Transmission Cooler
to release cooling system pressure.
3. Place a suitable container under the radiator.
Open the drain petcock at the bottom of the ra-
diator and drain the cooling system. Close the
drain petcock.
4. Remove the two radiator hoses at the transmis-
sion cooler, draining any excess engine coolant
into a pan.
1
CAUTION
3
The transmission fluid hoses at the cooler have
quick-connect fittings. DO NOT attempt to un- 10/05/2001 2 4 f261141
screw the fitting at the cooler. It is welded to the
1. Retaining Clip
cooler. See Fig. 1. If the fittings at the cooler are 2. Cooler Fitting (welded to cooler)
turned, internal cooler leakage will occur which 3. Safety Collar
can cause transmission failure. 4. Transmission Hose
5. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the fittings at
both sides of the automatic transmission fluid Fig. 2, Safety Collar Removal
(ATF) cooler.
can tear the internal O-ring at the cooler fitting. If
5.1 Pull back the safety collar on the hose the O-ring tears and leaks ATF, the cooler will
fitting accessing the retaining clip. See have to replaced.
Fig. 2.
5.3 Over a drain pan, pull the cooler hose out
5.2 Using a small flat-head screw driver, re- of the fitting. See Fig. 4. Catch the ATF by
move the retaining clip from the cooler directing the disconnected end of each
fitting. See Fig. 3. Discard the clip. hose into a drain pan. When the ATF
stops draining, plug the hoses.
CAUTION Protect the ends of the cooler hoses,
wrapping them in shop towels or similar
Protect the ends of the cooler hoses. Failure to
material.
do so can cause damage to the hose end, which
1 CAUTION
DO NOT reuse the retaining clips. Use a new re-
taining clip each time the hoses are removed.
Failure to do so could result in the cooler hoses
coming out of the cooler during vehicle opera-
tion, leaking ATF and causing permanent damage
to the transmission. New retaining clips are avail-
able from the PDCs.
3 8.1 Install a new retaining clip in the fitting at
the cooler. The clip should be completely
4 seated as it was before the hose was re-
10/05/2001 2 f261142 moved.
1. Retaining Clip 8.2 Carefully insert the end of the transmis-
2. Cooler Fitting (welded to cooler)
3. Safety Collar
sion hose into the cooler fitting until the
4. Transmission Hose end seats at the retaining clip. See Fig. 5.
Gently pull the hose to make sure it is
Fig. 3, Retaining Clip Removal fully seated.
1
2 3
10/05/2001 1 f261143
10/05/2001 2 f261144
7. Hold the ATF cooler in place; then install the fas- 9. Install the two radiator hoses and tighten the
teners on the mounting bracket. Tighten the fas- hose clamps.
teners 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m). 10. Fill the coolant system and install the surge tank
8. Attach the transmission hoses to the fittings at cap.
both sides of the cooler. 11. Start the engine and operate the transmission for
1 or 2 minutes, then add the correct ATF to the
transmission as needed. For instructions and lu-
bricant specifications, see Group 26 of the
Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual.
A new transmission control module (TCM) was intro- 6. Place the new TCM over the mounting posts,
duced by Allison Transmissions in mid-2006. This and install the washers and nuts. Tighten the
control — known as "fourth generation" — replaced nuts 24 lbf·in (271 N·cm).
the previous electronic control unit (ECU) that is
IMPORTANT: Be careful when attaching the 80-
commonly referred to as "WTEC III". Replacement
procedures for both are provided below. way connector to the TCM. Do not bend the
pins.
Fourth Generation TCM 7. Connect the electrical harness to the TCM.
Replacement 8. Connect the batteries.
9. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down tires.
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
WTEC III ECU Replacement
2. Disconnect the batteries.
3. Open the hood and locate the TCM attached to 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the frontwall panel. the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
4. Disconnect the electrical harness from the TCM.
See Fig. 1. 2. Disconnect the batteries.
3. Locate the ECU either on the frame or behind
the left fender, and disconnect the black, gray,
and blue harness connectors from the ECU.
4. Remove the nuts, washers, and spacers from
each ECU mounting post, and remove the ECU.
See Fig. 2.
4
3 5
1 1
1 6
2
2
4
1
3
08/28/2001 f543869
1. Mounting Post
05/01/2006 f261363
2. Blue Harness Connector Port
1. Mounting Post 3. Black Harness Connector Port
2. Harness Connector 4. ECU
3. TCM 5. Gray Harness Connector Port
4. Mounting Plate 6. ECU Access/Mounting Plate
Fig. 1, Allison Fourth Generation Transmission TCM Fig. 2, Allison WTEC III Transmission ECU
5. Remove the nuts and washers from each TCM 5. Place the new ECU over the mounting posts and
mounting post, then remove the TCM. install the spacers, washers, and nuts. Tighten
the nuts firmly.
General Information 5 6 7
The SmartShift™ transmission shift control is an elec- 4 8
3
tronic transmission control device. It is applicable to
automated mechanical transmissions and is required
with the Mercedes-Benz AGS Automated Gear Shift
transmission, and the Eaton® Fuller® UltraShift™ 9
transmission. It replaces either the typical floor- 1
mounted shift lever or dash-mounted pushbutton 2
10
control. 11
12
The SmartShift control mounts to the right-hand side 01/24/2003 f270120
of the steering column and is operated by the driver’s
To upshift manually, pull the control up (towards you). To
right hand. There are two versions of the control: downshift manually, push the control down (away from
• See Fig. 1 for the AGS control. you).
1. SmartShift Control
5 2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
6 3. MAN Position (of slide switch)
7
4 4. AUTO Position (of slide switch)
3 8 5. Upshift Direction
6. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
7. Selector Switch
8. Neutral Lock Button
9 9. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
1 10. Drive Position (of selector switch)
2 11. Low Position (of selector switch)
10
12. Downshift Direction
11
11/11/2002 f270080 Fig. 2, SmartShift Control (for UltraShift transmission)
To upshift manually, pull the control up (towards you). To space is increased and access to the sleeper is im-
downshift manually, push the control down (away from proved by removing the shift lever from the floor. Be-
you). cause of the steering column mounting, the transmis-
1. SmartShift Control sion control is within fingertip reach of the steering
2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch) wheel, which enhances safety.
3. MAN Position (of slide switch)
4. AUTO Position (of slide switch) In automatic drive mode, forward drive gears are
5. Upshift Direction shifted automatically, without driver interaction. On
6. Reverse Position (of selector switch) SmartShift, a slide switch allows the driver to choose
7. Selector Switch between automatic and manual forward driving
8. Neutral Lock Button modes. In manual mode the driver has direct control
9. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
10. Drive Position (of selector switch)
over gear shifts.
11. Downshift Direction Manual gear shifts are accomplished by a momen-
tary pull or push on the control in the plane perpen-
Fig. 1, SmartShift Control (for AGS transmission)
dicular to the steering wheel. See Fig. 3. All shifts
• See Fig. 2 for the UltraShift control. into reverse (R) are done manually.
SmartShift accepts driver requests for transmission Pull upward (toward you) on the control to upshift
functions and transmits them through hard wiring to and push downward (away from you) to downshift.
the transmission control unit (TCU). SmartShift is a The control is spring-loaded and returns to mid-
true shift-by-wire system. position when released after an upshift or downshift.
SmartShift offers two main advantages over conven- The selector switch is located at the end of the con-
tional transmission control devices. Usable cab trol. There are two different versions:
2
1
3
4
01/29/2003 f270121
1. Upshift (in manual mode, pull upward)
2. Steering Wheel
3. Downshift (in manual mode, push downward)
4. Steering Column
Replacement
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brakes,
and chock the rear tires.
2. Remove the steering column covers. For detailed
procedures, see Section 46.02, Subject 110.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the
SmartShift module.
4. Remove the three mounting capscrews and
washers that attach the bracket assembly to the
steering column. See Fig. 1.
3
1
5
2
04/21/2004 f261319
1. Mounting 3. SmartShift Lever
Capscrew(s) 4. Bracket Assembly
2. Washer(s) 5. Steering Column
General Information 5 6
The following information is provided to help deter- 3 4 7
mine whether a potential transmission problem is ac-
tually the transmission or possibly the Freightliner
SmartShift® Transmission Shift Control.
8
Resistance checks at the SmartShift connector can 1
help determine connection problems. 2 9
DataLink Software can be used to test the SmartShift 10
11
control. The tests require a ServiceLink computer 11/23/99 f270082
connected to the vehicle. If the tests confirm the shift 1. SmartShift Control
control is defective, this subject also includes con- 2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
nector resistance checks to rule out wiring issues. 3. MAN Position (on slide switch)
4. AUTO Position (on slide switch)
For transmissions other than Mercedes-Benz Auto- 5. Upshift Direction
mated Gear Shift (AGS), follow the procedures below 6. Reverse Position (on selector switch)
for resistance checking and Freightliner SmartShift 7. Selector Switch
testing using DataLink Monitor and dash displays. 8. Neutral Position (on selector switch)
For AGS transmissions, see Section 26.03, Sub- 9. Drive Position (on selector switch)
ject 302. 10. Low Position (on selector switch)
11. Downshift Direction
To determine which transmission is installed on the
vehicle, check the shift pattern decal on the dash or Fig. 1, SmartShift Control (with Eaton Fuller AutoShift)
visor.
NOTE: SmartShift controls designed for one 2 3
transmission model should not be used with
4
other models of transmission.
SHIFT
UP
For Eaton Fuller AutoShift, the four-position selector PULL
5
2. Remove the screws that secure the steering col-
6 umn trim panels, and separate the forward and
7
4 rear panels to access the shift control. See
3 8 Fig. 4.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the plug
on the shift control unit. See Fig. 5.
9
1
2
10
11
11/11/2002 f270080 2
1. SmartShift Control
2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
3. MAN Position (on slide switch)
4. AUTO Position (on slide switch)
5. Upshift Direction
6. Reverse Position (on selector switch)
7. Selector Switch
8. Neutral Lock Button
9. Neutral Position (on selector switch)
10. Drive Position (on selector switch)
11. Downshift Direction
3
Resistance on SmartShift Controls at A and C
(Except Meritor SureShift)
01/24/2007 f261387 Slide Switch + Lever
Reading: kOhm
Position
1. Shift Control
2. Steering Wheel Manual 2.865–2.981
3. Electrical Connector Manual + Up 0.531–0.553
2
SmartShift Control Testing for
Eaton AutoShift
The AutoShift DataLink Monitor template (see Fig. 8)
will display the current vehicle status and will reflect
change in status. Vehicle information is retrieved
from the transmission ECU on the datalink. The
monitor can also be used to verify readings on the
instrument panel.
3 To test the shift control using the datalink, the
vehicle can be placed into a mode that allows
the gears to be shifted without the engine run-
05/16/2002 f270075 ning. The following step explains how to enter
A. Plug the newly assembled wire extension into the that mode.
plug on the shift control unit.
1. Turn the ignition OFF, then turn the ignition back
1. Shift Control Unit ON, but don’t start the engine. The transmission
2. Digital Multimeter (set to ohms) controller will still be in the Engine ON mode,
3. Metri-Pack Terminals (at wire ends) thereby allowing the gears to be shifted.
Fig. 7, Resistance Checking at Shift Control 2. Test the operation of the shift control for Reverse
(R) and Neutral (N), as follows.
SmartShift Control Checking 2.1 Select R on the selector switch. In the
Using DataLink Monitor (DLM) Range Selected field of the template an R
should be displayed.
1. With the wheels chocked, start the engine. 2.2 Select N on the selector switch. In the
2. Connect the service computer to the engine and Range Selected field of the template an N
start ServiceLink. should be displayed.
3. Click on the Transmission icon on the left 3. Test the operation of the shift control for Drive
screen. (D), as follows.
4. Click on the Templates tab. An overview of 3.1 Select D on the selector switch and turn
available templates will be shown. the slide switch (reading "Automatic/
Manual") to Automatic. In the Range Se-
5. If the vehicle is equipped with Eaton® Fuller® Au- lected field of the template, a D should be
toShift™, click on SmartShift with Eaton Auto- displayed.
Shift. If the vehicle is equipped with ZF Meritor™
DataLink Monitor
3000
Rail Actuator Down−Shift Req. Ign. Interrupted
2500
OFF OFF
2000
Shift Finger Rail Position Shift Finger Gear Position
1500
0 0
0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100
1000
500
FAULTS
0 MID PID/SID FMI SID ? STATUS OCC CNT
0 0 0
02/19/2001 f610457
3.2 With the selector switch still on D, toggle 4.2 Push and hold the shift control lever. The
the slide switch from Automatic to Manual Down-Shift Req. field will turn green and
and back. Confirm that the Range Se- read ON for 3 seconds.
lected field shows a D while in Automatic
NOTE: A blinking display indicates that the
and an H (High) while in Manual.
transmission is attempting to shift into the gear
3.3 While in Manual mode, change the selec- position. A solid display shows the current gear
tor switch to L (Low) and confirm that the position attained.
Range Selected field changes from H to L.
5. When the selector switch is in any position but N
4. Test upshifting and downshifting, as follows. (Neutral), the Ign. Interrupt field on the Monitor
4.1 With the selector switch on D, pull and template will read YES.
hold the shift control lever. The Up-Shift
Req. field will turn green and read ON for
3 seconds.
SmartShift Control Testing for ZF NOTE: The DLM template for the SureShift
transmission will not work with the FreedomLine
Meritor SureShift and transmission. For further diagnostic assistance
FreedomLine on FreedomLine transmissions, use Meritor’s
TransSoft software.
The SmartShift control test for a ZF Meritor SureShift
system can be performed by using the dash-mounted
gear display. The SureShift DataLink Monitor (DLM) WARNING
template can be used if further testing of the system
For SureShift transmissions, do not depress the
is necessary, for example, to confirm dash display
clutch pedal during these tests. Doing so could
readings or gear positions. See Fig. 9.
result in the vehicle moving, possibly causing
vehicle damage or personal injury.
DataLink Monitor
s/n Low
75
01/11/2001 f610466
General Information rear of the hydraulic body are a hydraulic pump and
an electric motor.
Mercedes-Benz AGS Automated Gear Shift transmis- The TCU is the electronic center of the AGS. It con-
sions are fully automated manual transmissions that trols gear changes and monitors the positions of the
were installed on M2 vehicles for years. In 2010, the clutch and the shift mechanism. It receives requests
name changed to Freightliner AMT3™ Automated- from the shift lever to change drive modes and
Manual Transmission, and new model numbers were gears. It broadcasts error messages to the J1587
applied. See Table 1 for model numbers. databus. It communicates to the engine, antilock
brakes, and bulkhead module over the J1939 net-
NOTE: In this workshop manual, the term "AGS work.
transmission" refers collectively to the transmis-
sion models in Table 1, and the information in The hydraulic body distributes hydraulic fluid to the
this section applies equally to those models. clutch, x-y actuator, and accumulator. The hydraulic
pump is driven by an electric motor with its own con-
An AGS transmission gear case holds 9.5 quarts (9.0 nection to the power distribution module, protected
liters) of oil. MobilTrans SHC® DC is the approved by a 40-amp fuse.
oil.
The hydraulic pump comes on automatically when
No clutch pedal is needed to change gears. The the ignition is turned on, producing a distinctive hum-
clutch is activated by a hydraulic system that also ming noise that is a characteristic of this transmis-
controls the shifting mechanism. After any service, sion. When the noise stops, the hydraulic system is
the clutch must be recalibrated. pressurized.
The hydraulic system is a self-contained AGS unit The hydraulic reservoir holds about 1.05 quarts (one
that attaches to the left-hand side of the gear case. liter) of hydraulic fluid. The only fluid used in this sys-
See Fig. 1. tem is Pentosin. No other fluid can be substituted.
The AGS unit has four major components: Both high-pressure and low-pressure hydraulic fit-
• The x-y actuator, which controls the move- tings are not threaded. They can be removed by
ments of the shift mechanism pressing a brass ring against a soft O-ring and
thereby compressing it enough to break the seal and
• The reservoir, which holds the supply of hy- open the line. See Fig. 2 for the line removal tools.
draulic fluid
Certain fasteners used on this transmission contain
• The pressure accumulator, which maintains a small amounts of chemical in micro-capsules embed-
maximum hydraulic pressure of 1230 psi (8500 ded in the thread. This chemical has sealant and/or
kPa) thread-locking properties. These fasteners must be
• The central unit, which controls both electrical replaced at every service for the micro-encapsulated
and hydraulic inputs chemical to keep its properties.
The central unit of the AGS contains the transmission IMPORTANT: Do not use Loctite® or sealant on
control unit (TCU) and the hydraulic body. On the these fasteners.
Principles of Operation
A shift can be requested either manually, by pushing
or pulling the SmartShift lever, or automatically. The
AGS judges when to shift automatically through infor-
mation provided by rotational speed (rpm) sensors.
One sensor reads input shaft speed (this sensor is
located aft of the central unit, on the countershaft).
Two rear sensors read output shaft speed and direc-
tion of rotation.
When a shift is requested, hydraulic pressure disen-
gages the clutch. A position sensor attached to the
clutch release bearing housing ensures smooth dis-
engagement and engagement.
The x-y actuator moves the shift rod in two dimen-
sions (this is why it is called x-y actuation). With the
clutch disengaged, the actuator uses hydraulic pres-
sure to move the shift rod until it is over the correct
shift rail. Then it turns the shift rod a precise amount
so that the shift finger can engage the shift rail for
the correct gear. Two shift position sensors, a gear
position sensor and a rail position sensor, assure
correct positioning of the shift rod and the shift rail.
From this point on, the mechanism operates in ex-
actly the same way as in any other Mercedes-Benz
manual transmission. The notch in the shift rail con-
tacts the shift fork, which moves the synchro slide
onto the correct gear wheel.
1
2
4
03/17/2004 f270125
1. X-Y Actuator
2. Reservoir
3. Accumulator
4. Central Unit
06/02/2004 f580377
NOTE: The tool with the large opening (top) is used to
disconnect the low-pressure hoses. The tool with the
small opening (bottom) is used to disconnect the high-
pressure lines.
Fig. 2, Hydraulic Fitting Disconnect Tools
CAUTION
4
Do not allow the rear of the transmission to drop,
and do not allow the transmission to hang un-
supported. Keep the flange of the bell housing
parallel (all the way around) to the flange of the
2 timing case, until the input shaft is clear of the
flywheel. Taking these precautions will prevent
damage to the input shaft, flywheel, and clutch.
1 5
01/29/2004 f410504 11. Remove the transmission. See Fig. 7.
1. U-Joint 4. Drive Shaft
2. Midship Bracket 5. Jack 11.1 Pull the transmission and jack straight
3. Midship Bearing back until the transmission input shaft is
clear of the engine.
Fig. 1, Midship Bearing 11.2 If necessary, lower the jack supporting the
4.1 Support the driveline with a jack under- transmission. It might also be necessary
neath the aft midship bearing. to jack up the truck to get enough clear-
ance to allow the transmission to pass.
4.2 Remove the bolts from the aft midship
bearing bracket. IMPORTANT: Watch closely the clearance
between the bell housing and the frame rail.
4.3 Remove the forward midship bracket.
11.3 Pull the transmission out through the
4.4 Remove the transmission yoke U-joint space behind the cab.
from the transmission.
4.5 Support the disconnected driveshaft. Installation
5. Remove the cab floor plate and cover plate. See
Fig. 2. IMPORTANT: Before installing the transmission,
6. Remove all brackets attached to the transmission
make sure that the rear tires are chocked and
mounting bolts. Remove all the transmission
5
3
4
2
6
1
01/30/2004 f261297
1 1
2
2
3
3
4 3
4
06/02/2004 f270129
02/09/2004 f544401
1. TCU Mounting Bolt
1. Bell Housing 2. TCU
2. Transmission Mounting Bolt 3. Splash Guard
3. Battery Clamp 4. Splash Guard Mounting Bolt
4. Battery Cables
Fig. 4, TCU Splash Guard
Fig. 3, Battery Cable Brackets
1
2
2
02/17/2004 f544407
1. X3 Connector
2. Electric Motor Harness
3
Fig. 5, Harness Connector
03/17/2004 f261318
01/29/99 f261013
10/05/94 A B f260006b
A. Full B. Low
Replacement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
rear tires.
2. Disconnect the batteries. 4
3. Before starting the replacement procedure, clean
all screws and fittings by spraying with a light 1 2 2
penetrating oil. 02/11/2004 3 f544402
4. Remove the two mounting capscrews attaching Remove the eight Torx screws (arrows) attaching the
TCU to the hydraulic body.
the splash guard to the TCU. See Fig. 1.
1. X1 (main vehicle) Connector
2. Safety Slide
3. X2 (transmission) Connector
4. X3 (electric motor) Connector
2 5. Tie Strap
1
Fig. 2, TCU
1
2
03/03/2004 f544403
1 7
02/10/2004 f261298
1. Clutch Position Sensor 4. Fluid Level Sensor 6. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #2
2. Gear Position Sensor 5. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #1 7. Input Shaft Speed Sensor
3. Rail Position Sensor
2 Speed Sensors
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
rear tires.
2. Unscrew the electrical connector from the sen-
sor. See Fig. 4 for the input shaft speed sensor
and Fig. 5 for the two output shaft speed sen-
f544410
sors.
02/17/2004
1. Gear Position Sensor
2. Rail Position Sensor 1
02/17/2004 f544409
2 3 1. Input Shaft Speed Sensor
2. Accumulator
10/20/2003 f261291 3. Using a wrench, remove the sensor from the rear
1. Reservoir 3. Connector gear case.
2. Cap 4. Install a new sensor on the rear gear case.
Tighten the sensor 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
Fig. 3, Fluid Level Sensor
5. Install the electrical connector on the end of the
3.1 Insert a small screwdriver into the opening sensor.
at the top of the connector.
6. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
3.2 Pull back (aft) on the clip until it releases.
A click can be heard when it releases.
3.3 Remove the connector from the plug on
the reservoir cap.
4. Unscrew the reservoir cap and remove the cap
and probe from the hydraulic reservoir.
4
2
02/19/2004 f261308
1. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #2
2. Connector, Sensor #2
3. Connector, Sensor #1
4. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #1
NOTE: To gain access to the reservoir cap, it 2.2 Again, turn on the ignition, and wait one
may be more convenient to open the floor ac- minute. Then turn off the ignition, and wait
one minute. Verify that the current gear
cess plate. See Subject 100 for procedures. indicator is blank.
2. Clean around the area of the bleed screw and
3. Verify that the current gear indicator is blank. Set
the reservoir cap. Keep the reservoir cap clean
the selector switch on the SmartShift control to
and take care not to introduce dirt into the reser-
"N" (neutral). See Fig. 1.
voir.
3. With the hydraulic system depressurized (for de- 1
tailed procedures, see Subject 160), remove the
plastic cap from the bleed screw. Insert a clear
hose onto the bleed valve on the bell housing.
2
Remove the reservoir cap and place the other
end of the hose inside the hydraulic reservoir.
IMPORTANT: Do not start the engine.
4. Turn on the ignition switch and put the transmis-
sion into 1st gear.
5. Slowly open the bleed screw. Allow the hydraulic
fluid to circulate until no air bubbles are visible
and the fluid is clear.
6. Tighten the bleed screw 13 lbf·ft (17 N·m).
7. Remove the bleed hose and install the reservoir
10/13/2003 f270079
cap.
Make sure the current gear indicator is blank and the
8. Install the plastic cap on the bleed screw. selector switch is set to "N".
9. Recalibrate the transmission using the procedure 1. Current Gear Indicator
under the heading "Recalibration" in this subject. 2. SmartShift Control
10. Check the hydraulic fluid level and add more Fig. 1, Ready to Recalibrate
Pentosin as needed. See Subject 150 for proce-
dures. NOTE: For the recalibration procedure to suc-
ceed, the selector switch must remain in neutral
Recalibration until instructed differently later in this procedure.
4. With the selector switch in neutral, pull the
IMPORTANT: Use this procedure when a new SmartShift lever up (towards you) and hold it
transmission is installed, the TCU is replaced, there until instructed to release it later in this pro-
and to correct complaints of rough shifting. cedure.
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. 5. While holding the SmartShift lever up, turn on
the ignition. When the letter "X" displays on the
2. Pressurize the hydraulic pump, as follows. current gear indicator, recalibration is in
progress. See Fig. 2. Do not start the engine at
this time.
10/13/2003 f610679
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580381
Replacement
4
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake and
chock the rear tires.
IMPORTANT: Depressurize the hydraulic system A
before replacing any hydraulic components.
2. Depressurize the hydraulic system. For detailed 2
procedures, see Subject 160.
WARNING 1
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580379a
3
1
4 2
3
02/18/2004 f261301
4
Install the spring clips in the slots provided in the base
of the reservoir. 02/24/2004 f261306
1. Low-Pressure Hose 3. Return Hose 1. Reservoir 3. Fastener, M8
2. Reservoir 4. Spring Clip 2. Lip of Gear Case 4. Hydraulic Fitting
5. Remove the electrical connector from the reser- 7. Remove the reservoir from the transmission.
voir cap. See Fig. 3. 8. Position the new reservoir in the transmission.
Install the two M6 fasteners that fasten it to the
gear box and tighten them 71 lbf·in (800 N·cm).
1 9. Attach the electrical connector to the reservoir
cap. Tug lightly on the connector to make sure it
has snapped into place.
10. Install a new M8 fastener into the groove at the
base of the reservoir. See Fig. 2. Tighten the M8
fastener 11 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
2 3 IMPORTANT: Do not use Loctite® or sealant on
this fastener.
11. Install the low-pressure hydraulic hoses at the
base of the reservoir. See Fig. 1.
10/20/2003 f261291
11.1 Install the spring clips in the slots pro-
1. Reservoir 3. Fluid Level Sensor vided.
2. Reservoir Cap
11.2 Insert the two hydraulic hoses through the
Fig. 3, Reservoir Cap spring clips until they snap into place. Tug
lightly on the lines to make sure they are
5.1 Insert a small screwdriver into the opening securely fastened.
at the top of the connector.
NOTE: After depressurizing, wait five minutes
5.2 Pull back (aft) on the clip until it releases. before checking the hydraulic fluid level. This
A click can be heard when it releases. will allow any foam in the fluid to settle.
5.3 Remove the connector from the plug on 12. Check the hydraulic fluid level. Add Pentosin as
the reservoir cap. needed until the level reaches the joint between
6. Remove the two inverted-Torx M6 fasteners fas- the upper and lower sections of the reservoir.
tening the top of the reservoir to the transmission See Fig. 5.
gear box. See Fig. 4.
1
2
03/17/2004 f261318
Depressurization
Normal Procedure
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake.
2. Connect ServiceLink to the vehicle. Start the
"AGS Procedures" template and follow the in-
structions on the screen to depressurize the sys-
tem. See Fig. 1.
2.1 Press the "Start Communications" button.
2.2 Select "Start Diagnostic Mode."
2.3 Select the "Reduce Hyd Pressure" button
to depressurize the system.
3. Turn off the ignition switch. Wait for the system
to depressurize. When the system depressurizes,
the accumulator will dump its fluid into the reser-
voir, causing an obvious rise in the reservoir
level.
IMPORTANT: If the reservoir level fails to rise,
or any other problem prevents the system from
depressurizing, use the alternate procedure. Do
not use the alternate procedure unless the nor-
mal procedure fails.
4. Disconnect ServiceLink from the vehicle.
Alternate Procedure
NOTE: The pressure-limiting valve is designed
to be opened a limited number of times. Do not
use it routinely to depressurize the system.
1. Open the pressure-limiting valve embedded in
the forward side of the x-y actuator. Loosen the
M6 adjusting screw carefully one quarter-turn.
See Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: Do not loosen the adjusting screw
more than one quarter-turn. If the pressure-
limiting valve is opened wider than that, it can
cause the accumulator to discharge.
2. Close the M6 adjusting screw when depressur-
ization is complete. Tighten it 62 to 71 lbf·in (700
to 800 N·cm).
File Help
1
Note: You first must start
Start communication with communication with the AGS ECU before
Transmission entering into diagnostic mode. The
AGS ECU will kick you out of
diagnostic mode without first
establishing this contact.
2 3
Start
Reduce complete
Start Diagnostic Mode Hyd learning
Pressure procedure
Start clutch
Start last
offset
Exit Diagnostic Mode learning
learning
procedure
procedure
02/25/2004 f060184
02/19/2004 f261309
If the normal procedure fails, open the pressure-limiting
valve by turning the adjusting screw (arrow).
Fig. 2, Alternate Procedure
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580379
Replacement
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake and
chock the rear tires. 2
NOTE: Replacement of the x-y actuator requires
removing the transmission from the vehicle.
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. For
detailed procedures, see Subject 100.
1
IMPORTANT: Depressurize the hydraulic system
before replacing any hydraulic components. 3
3. If not already done, depressurize the hydraulic
system. For detailed procedures, see Sub-
ject 160.
4. Remove the AGS assembly from the transmis-
sion. For detailed procedures, see Subject 200.
5. Before starting the replacement procedure, clean 03/10/2004 f261317
all screws and fittings by spraying with a light 1. High-Pressure Line Disconnect Tool
penetrating oil. 2. Metal Ring
3. High-Pressure Hydraulic Line
6. Using the high-pressure hydraulic line disconnect
tool (Table 1), remove the high-pressure hydrau-
Fig. 1, Removing the High-Pressure Hydraulic Lines
lic lines from the actuator. See Fig. 1.
6.1 Mark each line and attachment point with 6.3 Carefully pull the line away from the at-
a paint pen for ease of installation. tachment point and pull it free of the ac-
tuator.
6.2 Place the high-pressure line tool in front of
the metal ring. Use the tool to pull on the
line and shake it slightly until the line
CAUTION
comes free. Be careful not to bend or damage the lines or the
O-rings when removing them.
NOTE: Make sure the actuator is seated firmly 8.1 The lines snap into place with an audible
on the mounting flange. Do not use the mount- click. When the installation is correct, the
ing capscrews to pull the actuator into position. outermost O-ring is no longer visible. See
Fig. 3.
7. Install the four M8 mounting capscrews finger-
tight in the actuator. Make sure they are firm all 8.2 Tug lightly on each line to make sure it is
around. Then tighten them 17 lbf·ft (23 N·m). locked in place.
9. Install the connectors for the two position sen-
CAUTION sors on the actuator.
Do not twist or bend the hydraulic lines. This will 10. Install the AGS assembly on the transmission.
make installation more difficult and could dam- For detailed procedures, see Subject 200.
age the lines. 11. Install the transmission on the vehicle. For de-
8. Install the hydraulic lines in the actuator, as re- tailed procedures, see Subject 100.
moved. See Fig. 2.
06/02/2004 f261324
1. Rail Select Line (high) 3. X-Y Actuator 5. Rail Select Line (low)
2. Gear Select Line (fore) 4. Gear Select Line (aft) 6. Hydraulic Body
02/18/2004 f261304
The outermost O-ring (arrow) is not visible when the line
is installed correctly.
Fig. 3, Snap the Lines Into Place
1 7
02/10/2004 f261298
1. Clutch Position Sensor 4. Fluid Level Sensor 6. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #2
2. Gear Position Sensor 5. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #1 7. Input Shaft Speed Sensor
3. Rail Position Sensor
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580379
Replacement CAUTION
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake and Be careful not to bend or damage the lines or the
chock the rear tires. O-rings when removing them.
NOTE: Replacement of the x-y actuator requires NOTE: The central unit has two parts: in front is
removing the transmission from the vehicle. the transmission control unit (TCU), and behind
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. For it is the hydraulic body.
detailed procedures, see Subject 100. 7. Still using the high-pressure hydraulic line dis-
IMPORTANT: Depressurize the hydraulic system connect tool, remove the high-pressure hydraulic
before replacing any hydraulic components. lines from the central unit. See Fig. 1.
3. If not already done, depressurize the hydraulic NOTE: There are five lines that connect to
system. For detailed procedures, see Sub- the hydraulic body of the central unit. One
ject 160. line connects to the clutch and four lines
4. Remove the AGS assembly from the transmis-
connect to the x-y actuator.
sion. For detailed procedures, see Subject 200. 7.1 Mark each line and attachment point with
a paint pen for ease of installation. On the
CAUTION top of the hydraulic body, remove the
outer lines first.
Make sure the AGS assembly is well supported
before working on the hydraulic lines. If neces- IMPORTANT: Don’t use the tool as a lever.
sary, call another person to help support it. The Work it in until it is fully engaged and then
weight of the assembly components could cause wiggle until the line comes free.
damage to the lines. 7.2 Place the high-pressure line tool in front of
5. Before starting the replacement procedure, clean the metal ring. Press down to compress
all screws and fittings by spraying with a light the locking device, and then pull outward
penetrating oil. and shake the tool slightly until the line
comes free.
6. Using the high-pressure hydraulic line disconnect
tool (Table 1), remove the four high-pressure 7.3 Once all the lines are unlocked, carefully
hydraulic lines from the x-y actuator. For proce- separate the central unit from the rest of
dures, see Subject 170. the AGS assembly.
3 4
2 2
1
3
1
01/13/2005 f544421
03/10/2004 f261317 1. TCU 3. X-Y Actuator
1. High-Pressure Line Disconnect Tool 2. Hydraulic Body 4. Hydraulic Line
2. Metal Ring
3. High-Pressure Hydraulic Line Fig. 2, Hydraulic Lines on the Central Unit
CAUTION
Do not twist or bend the hydraulic lines. This will
make installation more difficult and could dam-
age the lines.
8. Install the hydraulic lines in the central unit, as
removed. See Fig. 2.
8.1 The lines snap into place with an audible
click. When the installation is correct, the
outermost O-ring is no longer visible. See
Fig. 3.
8.2 Tug lightly on each line to make sure it is
locked in place.
02/18/2004 f261304
9. Install the high-pressure hydraulic lines on the The outermost O-ring (arrow) is not visible when the line
x-y actuator, as removed. For procedures, see is installed correctly.
Subject 170.
Fig. 3, Snap the Lines Into Place
10. Install the AGS assembly on the transmission.
For detailed procedures, see Subject 200. NOTE: The first few shifts after draining and re-
11. Install the transmission on the vehicle. For de- filling the hydraulic system will take longer than
tailed procedures, see Subject 100. usual.
12. Start the engine and allow the system to pressur- 13. Check the hydraulic system for leaks and repair
ize. Shift back and forth a few times from drive to if necessary. When done, shut down the engine.
reverse and back to neutral.
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580380
f580382
1
03/03/2004 f544422
1
Remove the four inverted-Torx capscrews (arrows) that
attach the central unit to the transmission.
1. Transmission Control Unit (TCU)
03/10/2004 f261316
2. Hydraulic Body
3. Low-Pressure Return Hose 1. Setscrew Hole 2. Shift Cover
4. Low-Pressure Supply Hose
Fig. 3, Removing the Shift Cover
Fig. 1, AGS Central Unit Mounting Capscrews
12.3 Pull the actuator assembly, complete with
the shift rod, out of the front gear case.
IMPORTANT: If there is difficulty in separat-
ing the x-y actuator from the gear case, in-
stall the shift mechanism end guide on the
end of the shift rod. Then use a rubber mal-
let to pound gently on the end guide until the
actuator comes free.
13. Carefully remove the entire AGS assembly from
the transmission.
14. If necessary due to wear, file around the set-
screw bore at the end of the shift rod. When fin-
ished filing, be sure to remove any metal scraps,
shavings, or other residue.
02/19/2004 f261305
Remove the four large inverted-Torx capscrews (arrows)
Installation
that attach the x-y actuator to the transmission.
1. Using the shift finger alignment fork (Table 1),
Fig. 2, X-Y Actuator Mounting Capscrews align the shift finger. See Fig. 4. Leave the fork
in place until the shift rod is installed in the front
12.1 From the right-hand side of the transmis-
gear case. Screw the shift mechanism end guide
sion, remove the setscrew that holds the
(Table 1) onto the shift rod.
end of the shift rod.
1 2
3 1
2
3
1 7
02/10/2004 f261298
1. Clutch Position Sensor 4. Fluid Level Sensor 6. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #2
2. Gear Position Sensor 5. Output Shaft Speed Sensor #1 7. Input Shaft Speed Sensor
3. Rail Position Sensor
1
3
3
5
4
5 4
2
6
7
2 6
1
02/23/2004 f261312
1. Mounting Plate Capscrew
2. Connector Plug
3. 30-mm Hexhead Hydraulic Bleed Fitting 03/17/2004 f261313
4. Bleed Screw 1. Lip of Bell Housing
5. Spring Clip 2. Input Shaft
6. 30-mm Hexhead Hydraulic Pressure Fitting 3. Clutch Actuator Mounting Capscrew
7. Hydraulic Line 4. Release Bearing Housing
5. Concentric Slave Cylinder
Fig. 2, Clutch Components on Bell Housing 6. Position Sensor Connector
7. Clutch Position Sensor
7. Slide the clutch actuator onto the input shaft. In-
stall the clutch actuator on the bell housing. Fig. 3, Clutch Actuator
7.1 Install new clutch actuator mounting cap-
screws and tighten 17 lbf·ft (23 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Do not use Loctite® or sealant
on these fasteners.
7.2 Connect the hydraulic line and the fitting
that attaches it to the bell housing. Make
sure the spring clip engages properly.
7.3 Install the bleed screw and the fitting that
attaches it to the bell housing.
7.4 Attach the sensor wire, connector, and
connector plug assembly to the bell hous-
ing. Lock the electrical connector cap onto
the connector plug.
7.5 Tighten all hydraulic fittings 37 lbf·ft (50
N·m).
8. Install the transmission in the vehicle. For de-
tailed procedures, see Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: Always use ServiceLink when at- But in most cases, the J1587 fault code is the start-
tempting to diagnose problems with the AGS ing point for the troubleshooting procedures. See
(Automated Gear Shift) transmission. Table 1 to find information for SID fault codes. See
Table 2 to find information for PID fault codes.
How To Start Before starting any procedures, use ServiceLink to
depressurize the AGS hydraulic system. For detailed
To gain a baseline for troubleshooting when there is procedures, see Subject 160.
no definite problem, when the malfunction is erratic
or intermittent, or to determine the general health of Fault Code Guide
the electrical system, start with the electrical pre-test
in Subject 301. To troubleshoot a given fault code, look up the sub-
In a few cases there will be a definite problem and ject number in Table 1 (for SIDs) and Table 2 (for
no J1587 fault code will be sent (engine will not PIDs). Follow the procedures for that fault code until
crank, no information on gear display, fluid level the fault is corrected.
fault). For these problems, see the appropriate table
in Subject 301.
IMPORTANT: Always use ServiceLink when at- Use the electrical pre-test instructions given in
tempting to diagnose problems with the auto- Table 1 as a baseline for troubleshooting when there
mated gear shift (AGS) transmission. is no definite problem, the malfunction is erratic or
intermittent, or as an informational step to determine
In most cases, the J1587 fault code is the starting the general health of the electrical system. To record
point for the troubleshooting procedures. See Sub- your findings, a result sheet is provided at the end of
ject 300 for a list of fault codes and the location of this subject. For locations of serial numbers, see
troubleshooting procedures for each code. Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
Electrical Pre-Test
Procedure Result Action
Make sure that the selector switch on the The current gear indicator does not Troubleshoot the current gear
SmartShift lever is set to N. Turn on the power up normally. No fault codes indicator. See Table 4.
ignition switch to power up the display.
transmission.
NOTE: If the hydraulic pump starts up with The current gear indicator goes Turn off the ignition switch and go to
its characteristic humming noise, this through its normal power-up the next row in the table.
means the main power cables are OK (see sequence, ending by displaying "N."
the steps below to check the X3
connector).
With the ignition switch off, check the Voltage is less than 11 or greater Charge or replace the battery. For
voltage at the battery. than 13 volts. battery charging procedures, see
Section 54.12, Subject 150.
Voltage is between 11 and 13 volts. Go to the next row in the table.
Remove the X3 (electric motor 2-pin)
connector from the transmission control unit
(TCU). Check the electric motor power
circuit.
2 1
06/01/2004 X3 f544485
Check for voltage between pin 1 (power Voltage drops more than 0.2 volts Repair or replace the wiring as
circuit 232) of the X3 connector and the from the voltage measured at the needed. See Section 54.06, Subject
battery ground terminal. battery. 100.
Voltage is within 0.2 volts of the Go to the next row in the table.
voltage measured at the battery.
Electrical Pre-Test
Procedure Result Action
Check for resistance between pin 2 Resistance is greater than 0.3 ohms. Repair or replace the wiring as
(ground) of the X3 connector and the needed. See Section 54.06, Subject
battery ground terminal. 100.
Resistance is 0.3 ohms or less. Go to the next row in the table.
Remove the X1 (vehicle 21-pin) connector
from the transmission control unit (TCU).
Check the battery power circuit.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483b
Check for voltage from pins 12 and 15 Voltage drops more than 0.2 volts Repair or replace the wiring as
(battery power circuit 232D) of the X1 from the voltage measured at the needed. See Section 54.06, Subject
connector to the battery ground terminal. battery. 100.
Voltage is within 0.2 volts of the Go to the next row in the table.
voltage measured at the battery.
Turn on the ignition switch. Check the
ignition power circuit.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483c
Check for voltage from pin 9 (ignition power Voltage drops more than 0.2 volts Repair or replace the wiring as
circuit 232E) of the X1 connector to the from the voltage measured at the needed. See Section 54.06, Subject
battery ground terminal. battery. 100.
Voltage is within 0.2 volts of the Go to the next row in the table.
voltage measured at the battery.
Electrical Pre-Test
Procedure Result Action
Turn off the ignition switch. Check the
ignition ground circuit.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/21/2004 X1 f544483d
With the ignition switch off, check for Resistance is greater than 0.3 ohms. Repair or replace the wiring as
resistance between pins 18 and 21 needed. See Section 54.06, Subject
(ground) of the X1 connector and the 100.
battery ground terminal.
Resistance is 0.3 ohms or less. Go to the next row in the table.
Turn off the ignition switch. Check the
J1587 wiring.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/21/2004 X1 f544483e
Check for DC voltage from pins 11 and 14 Voltage is less than 1 or more than 4 Troubleshoot the J1587 datalink.
(J1587 datalink) of the X1 connector to the volt(s) for DC (less than 1 or more
battery ground terminal. than 3 for AC).
NOTE: If the meter cannot display the Voltage is between 1 and 4 volts for Go to the next row in the table.
rapidly shifting DC voltage, measure AC DC (1–3 volts AC).
voltage instead.
Turn off the ignition switch. Check the
J1939 wiring.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483a
Electrical Pre-Test
Procedure Result Action
With the ignition switch off, remove the X1 Resistance is less than 55 or greater Troubleshoot the J1939 datalink. See
connector from the TCU and check for than 65 ohms. Freightliner Service Bulletin 54-133.
resistance between pins 7 and 13 (J1939
Resistance is between 55 and 65 The vehicle has passed the electrical
datalink).
ohms. pre-test. Troubleshoot active fault
codes, if any.
Table 1, Electrical Pre-Test
3 4
5
DaimlerChrysler
Bez: G 60−6
IdNr 715053 123456
Code C07−00036−031
M−C
Var. 041962
1 10/05/2006 f261383
1. Transmission 2. Serial Number
Identification Plate
2
10/05/2006 f261384 Fig. 2, Transmission Serial Number
NOTE: The TCU and X-Y Actuator each have their own
WABCO identification plate (arrows) with unique serial Troubleshooting Tables, No
numbers.
1. TCU (Transmission 4. Serial Number Fault Codes
Control Unit) 5. X-Y Actuator
2. Splash Guard In a few cases there will be a definite problem and
3. WABCO no J1587 fault code will be sent.
Identification Plate
• If the engine will not crank and there are no
Fig. 1, Serial Numbers for TCU and X-Y Actuator transmission fault codes, see Table 2.
• If the current gear indicator displays "FL," and • If the transmission is fully functional, but there
the CHECK TRANS light comes on, there is a is no information on the current gear indicator,
low fluid level fault. See Table 3. Low fluid see Table 4.
level faults do not generate a J1587 fault code.
No J1587 Fault Code—"FL" on Current Gear Indicator; CHECK TRANS Light Illuminates*
Problem Procedure Result/Action
The hydraulic fluid level is Use ServiceLink to check the hydraulic fluid level. If the fluid level is low, add
low. Pentosin to the hydraulic
reservoir.
No J1587 Fault Code—"FL" on Current Gear Indicator; CHECK TRANS Light Illuminates*
Problem Procedure Result/Action
The fluid level sensor is Disconnect the sensor connector from the reservoir cap. If no continuity, replace the
defective. Check for continuity across pins 1 and 2 of the sensor sensor. See Subject 150.
connector.
NOTE: When the reservoir is full, the float in the sensor
rises up, and the two pins in the connector create a
complete circuit.
Turn off the ignition switch.
Check the fluid level sensor
wiring.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484l
The wiring between the Check resistance from pin 4 on the X2 connector to pin 2 If no resistance, repair or
TCU and the fluid level on the sensor connector. Check resistance from pin 12 on replace the X2 transmission
sensor is defective. the X2 connector to pin 1 on the sensor connector. harness. See Subject 180.
There is an internal Check the TCU for leakage or damage. Contact Mercedes-Benz
electrical failure in the TCU. Transmissions Service Support
with the AGS codes and results
of the electrical pre-test.
NOTE: One hour of
troubleshooting time is alloted
for printing the AGS codes and
completing the electrical pre-test.
1. Using ServiceLink, print the
AGS codes (130).
2. Complete the electrical pre-
test result sheet. See Fig. 3.
3. With the results, contact
Mercedes-Benz Transmissions
Service Support by fax
(503.961.8435), email
(MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone
(503.745.4965 or 503.745.4988).
* Even though the CHECK TRANS light illuminates, it is normal to see no active fault code.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
08/11/2005 X2 f544484m
The wiring from the Check the wiring between Both speed sensors are shorted Replace the X2 wiring harness.
output shaft speed pin 15 on the X2 connector to ground. See Subject 180.
sensor to the current and pin 1 on both speed
gear indicator is shorted sensors. At least one speed sensor is OK. Go to the next row in the table.
to ground.
The wiring from the X1 Check for J1587 AGS2 is not reporting on Repair or replace the X1
connector to the J1587 communication on ServiceLink. connector wiring as needed.
datalink is defective. ServiceLink. See Section 54.06, Subject
100.
AGS2 is reporting on Go to the next row in the table.
ServiceLink.
The current gear Check the wiring from the The wiring is damaged. Repair or replace the power,
indicator or its wiring is current gear indicator to ground, or J1587 datalink
defective. power, ground, and the wiring as needed. See
J1587 datalink. Section 54.06, Subject 100.
The wiring is OK. Replace the current gear
indicator.
Table 4, Transmission Fully Functional; No Information on Current Gear Indicator
Serial Numbers
TCU: X−Y Actuator:
AGS:
Notes:
01/03/2007 f020156a
SID 18, FMI 02—The Shift Lever Does Not Shift Gears
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the shift lever.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483
SID 18, FMI 02—The Shift Lever Does Not Shift Gears
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the shift lever.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483
Resistance Check for the Up/Downshift Circuit (Pin A Resistance Check for the Gear Selection Circuit (Pin
to Pin C) B to Pin C)
Slide Switch + Lever Position Reading: kOhm Selector Switch Position Reading: kOhm
AUTO 10.969–12.084 R 2.922–3.100
MAN 2.838–3.020 N 0.342–0.389
MAN + Up 0.527–0.564 D 0.576–0.670
MAN + Down 1.142–1.213 Table 3, Resistance Check for the Gear Selection
Circuit
AUTO + Up 0.611–0.653
AUTO + Down 1.628–1.729
Table 2, Resistance Check for the Up/Downshift
Circuit
Hydraulic Pressure Sensor • For SID 33, FMI 03, FMI 04, and FMI 05, see
Table 1 for procedures.
Faults
There are three hydraulic pressure sensor faults cov-
ered in these procedures. The same troubleshooting
procedure is used for all.
SID 33, FMI 03, 04, 05—The Pressure Sensor Is Shorted or Open
Failure Reason:
• The contacts on the pressure sensor terminal are not straight.
• There is a defect in the pressure sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
Procedure Result Action
Do a visual check of the pressure sensor The pressure sensor contacts are Straighten any bent pins or plugs.
connector. bent or crooked.
The contacts are OK. Contact Mercedes-Benz
Transmissions Service Support with
the AGS codes and results of the
electrical pre-test.
NOTE: One hour of troubleshooting
time is alloted for printing the AGS
codes and completing the electrical
pre-test.
1. Using ServiceLink, print the AGS
codes (130).
2. Complete the electrical pre-test
result sheet in Subject 301.
3. With the results, contact Mercedes-
Benz Transmissions Service Support
by fax (503.961.8435), email
(MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone
(503.745.4965 or 503.745.4988).
Table 1, The Pressure Sensor Is Shorted or Open
Hydraulic Pump Faults • For SID 52, FMI 05 and FMI 07, see Table 1
for procedures.
There are three hydraulic pump faults covered in • For SID 52, FMI 11, see Table 2 for proce-
these procedures. FMI 05 and FMI 07 are covered dures.
by the same troubleshooting procedure.
When both fault codes (SID 52 FMI 05 and SID 52
FMI 07) are active at the same time, a wiring prob-
lem is the most likely cause.
SID 52, FMI 05, 07—The Hydraulic Pump Pressure Does Not Increase
Failure Reason:
• The hydraulic fluid level is low.
• The hydraulic system is leaking.
• There is air in the hydraulic system.
• The fuse in connector X3 is blown.
• The accumulator has failed.
• The pump or pressure sensor has failed.
• The hydraulic lines are pinched, kinked, or blocked.
• The TCU has failed.
Remedy
Problem
Procedure Action
The hydraulic fluid level is low. Check the hydraulic fluid level. Add Pentosin to the hydraulic reservoir.
There are leaks in the hydraulic Do a visual check of the hydraulic Replace any leaking or damaged tubing. Make
system. system for leaks and loose fittings. sure all the hydraulic fittings are properly
Tug on all the hydraulic fittings to fastened. See Subject 200 for procedures.
make sure they are properly
fastened.
There is air in the hydraulic Bleed the hydraulic system. See Test the hydraulic pump and make sure the
system. Subject 130 for procedures. pressure does increase.
The hydraulic pump circuit is open. Check the 40-amp fuse. Remove Replace the 40-amp fuse if necessary. Repair or
the X3 connector and check the replace the wiring if necessary.
wiring at both pins.
The pressure accumulator has Check the pressure accumulator Replace the pressure accumulator. See
failed. for leaks or damage. Subject 140 for procedures.
SID 52, FMI 05, 07—The Hydraulic Pump Pressure Does Not Increase
Failure Reason:
• The hydraulic fluid level is low.
• The hydraulic system is leaking.
• There is air in the hydraulic system.
• The fuse in connector X3 is blown.
• The accumulator has failed.
• The pump or pressure sensor has failed.
• The hydraulic lines are pinched, kinked, or blocked.
• The TCU has failed.
Remedy
Problem
Procedure Action
The pump or pressure sensor has Check the AGS central unit for Contact Mercedes-Benz Transmissions Service
failed, or there is an internal leakage or damage. Support with the AGS codes and results of the
electrical failure in the TCU. electrical pre-test.
NOTE: One hour of troubleshooting time is
alloted for printing the AGS codes and
completing the electrical pre-test.
1. Using ServiceLink, print the AGS codes (130).
2. Complete the electrical pre-test result sheet in
Subject 301.
3. With the results, contact Mercedes-Benz
Transmissions Service Support by fax
(503.961.8435), email (MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone (503.745.4965 or
503.745.4988).
Table 1, The Hydraulic Pump Pressure Does Not Increase
Clutch Actuator Faults • For SID 55, FMI 00, see Table 1 for proce-
dures.
There are three clutch actuator faults covered in • For SID 55, FMI 07, see Table 2 for proce-
these procedures. Each one requires a different dures.
troubleshooting procedure. FMI 00 is often a tempo-
• For SID 55, FMI 13, see Table 3 for proce-
rary fault that goes away when the clutch is allowed
dures.
to cool.
J1939 Datalink Faults • For SID 231, FMI 09, see Table 2 for proce-
dures.
There are three J1939 datalink faults covered in • For SID 231, FMI 12, see Table 3 for proce-
these procedures. If more than one of these faults is dures and pin identification.
active, check FMI 12 first for best results. This can
often resolve the other two faults as well.
• For SID 231, FMI 02, see Table 1 for proce-
dures.
SID 231, FMI 09—The J1939 Datalink Message Has Timed Out
Failure Reason:
• The J1939 datalink is not receiving messages from other control units (engine ECU, bulkhead module, ABS ECU).
• The J1939 wiring is defective.
• There is interference from other control units on the J1939 datalink.
Problem Procedure Result Action
The power supply has Check for fault code SID 231, SID 231, FMI 12 is active. Troubleshoot SID 231, FMI
been interrupted. FMI 12. 12. See Table 3.
SID 231, FMI 12 is not active. Go to the next step in the
table.
Other active fault Check for other active fault codes Other active fault codes are Troubleshoot the other active
codes are causing a in other systems. found. fault codes.
breakdown in J1939
No other active fault codes Go to the next step in the
communications.
are found. table.
SID 231, FMI 09—The J1939 Datalink Message Has Timed Out
Failure Reason:
• The J1939 datalink is not receiving messages from other control units (engine ECU, bulkhead module, ABS ECU).
• The J1939 wiring is defective.
• There is interference from other control units on the J1939 datalink.
Problem Procedure Result Action
The J1939 data are Check the J1939 datalink There are other problems with Troubleshoot the J1939
not plausible. connections to other systems, the J1939 datalink. datalink. See Freightliner
particularly the engine (MID 128), Service Bulletin 54-133.
the antilock brakes (MID 136) and
the bulkhead module (MID 164).
Table 2, The J1939 Datalink Message Has Timed Out
SID 231, FMI 12—The J1939 Datalink Is Not Communicating With the Transmission
Failure Reason:
• The J1939 datalink has defective components.
• The terminating resistors on the J1939 back-
bone are missing, or there are extra resistors.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
• The J1939 wiring is defective.
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
• The signal on the J1939 datalink is distorted.
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
• There is a defect in the TCU.
07/16/2004 X1 f544483a
SID 231, FMI 12—The J1939 Datalink Is Not Communicating With the Transmission
Failure Reason:
• The J1939 datalink has defective components.
• The terminating resistors on the J1939 back-
bone are missing, or there are extra resistors.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
• The J1939 wiring is defective.
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
• The signal on the J1939 datalink is distorted.
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
• There is a defect in the TCU.
07/16/2004 X1 f544483a
Battery Power Supply Faults • For SID 251, FMI 01, see Table 2 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
There are four battery power supply faults covered in • For SID 251, FMI 05, see Table 3 for proce-
these procedures. Each one requires a different elec- dures and pin identification.
trical test.
• For SID 251, FMI 14, see Table 4 for proce-
• For SID 251, FMI 00, see Table 1 for proce- dures and pin identification.
dures and pin identification.
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485a
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485a
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485b
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485b
SID 251, FMI 05—There Is No Power to the Transmission With the Engine Running
Failure Reason:
• A fuse is blown.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485c
SID 251, FMI 05—There Is No Power to the Transmission With the Engine Running
Failure Reason:
• A fuse is blown.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485c
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
X1
2 1
07/16/2004 X3 f544485d
Calibration Memory Faults • For SID 253, FMI 02, FMI 12, FMI 13, and FMI
14, see Table 1 for procedures.
There are four calibration memory faults covered in
these procedures. The same troubleshooting proce-
dure is used for all.
SID 253, FMI 02, 12, 13, 14—The Transmission Needs To Be Recalibrated
Failure Reason:
• There is a failure of programmable memory.
• The transmission has not been properly calibrated, or the calibration procedure failed.
• The TCU has suffered an internal electrical failure.
Procedure Result Action
Complete a learning procedure using either Calibration is successful. No further action is needed.
ServiceLink or the SmartShift control.
To complete a learning procedure using the SmartShift
control:
1. Ensure that the parking brake is set. Calibration fails. Contact Mercedes-Benz
Transmissions Service Support
2. With the ignition turned off, pull and hold the with the AGS codes and results of
SmartShift control toward steering wheel. the electrical pre-test.
NOTE: The SmartShift control must be kept in this NOTE: One hour of troubleshooting
position until the gear display clears at the end of the time is alloted for printing the AGS
procedure. codes and completing the electrical
3. Turn on the ignition. The normal warm up procedure pre-test.
will initiate and an ’X’ will display on the current gear 1. Using ServiceLink, print the AGS
indicator. Your transmission may be heard shifting. codes (130).
4. Wait until the current gear indicator displays an ’N’ 2. Complete the electrical pre-test
(about 30 seconds) and an audible alert sounds. Start result sheet in Subject 301.
the engine within 10 seconds of the audible alert.
3. With the results, contact
5. The engine will raise a few rpm, then fall back to Mercedes-Benz Transmissions
idle, and an audible alert will sound. Turn off the Service Support by fax
engine within 10 seconds of audible alert. When the (503.961.8435), email
gear display clears, this procedure is complete. (MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone
NOTE: If during this procedure an ’SM’ or ’X’ (after the
(503.745.4965 or 503.745.4988).
warm up procedure) appears in the gear display, stop,
turn off the ignition, and wait for the gear display to go
dark. Then start over. This may need to be repeated
several times.
Table 1, The Transmission Needs To Be Recalibrated
Transmission Control Unit • For SID 254, FMI 11, see Table 2 for proce-
dures.
Faults • For SID 254, FMI 12, see Table 3 for proce-
dures.
There are five transmission control unit (TCU) faults
covered in these procedures. FMI 04 and FMI 05 are • For SID 254, FMI 13, see Table 4 for proce-
covered by the same procedure. dures.
• For SID 254, FMI 04 and FMI 05, see Table 1
for procedures.
SID 254, FMI 11—The TCU AUTO Mode Software Module Has an Error
Failure Reason:
• The engine ECU is not providing valid data.
• There is faulty data in programmable memory (EEPROM).
• The SmartShift lever is defective.
• One of the shift position sensors (gear or rail) has failed.
• One of the output shaft speed sensors has failed.
• The transmission is not properly calibrated.
• There is a defect in the brake pedal switch.
• There is a defect in the throttle pedal switch.
Problem Procedure Result Action
The TCU is Check for other MID 130 fault codes. Other fault codes are Troubleshoot the other
receiving faulty data. active. active fault codes.
No other fault codes Go to the next step in
are active. the table.
The transmission Complete a learning procedure using either The fault is no longer No further action is
needs to be ServiceLink or the SmartShift control. active. needed.
recalibrated.
To complete a learning procedure using the
SmartShift control:
1. Ensure that the parking brake is set.
2. With the ignition turned off, pull and hold the
SmartShift control toward steering wheel.
NOTE: The SmartShift control must be kept in this
position until the gear display clears at the end of
the procedure.
3. Turn on the ignition. The normal warm up
procedure will initiate and an ’X’ will display on the
current gear indicator. Your transmission may be
heard shifting. The fault is still active. Go to the next step in
the table.
4. Wait until the current gear indicator displays an
’N’ (about 30 seconds) and an audible alert
sounds. Start the engine within 10 seconds of the
audible alert.
5. The engine will raise a few rpm, then fall back to
idle, and an audible alert will sound. Turn off the
engine within 10 seconds of audible alert. When
the gear display clears, this procedure is complete.
NOTE: If during this procedure an ’SM’ or ’X’ (after
the warm up procedure) appears in the gear
display, stop, turn off the ignition, and wait for the
gear display to go dark. Then start over. This may
need to be repeated several times.
SID 254, FMI 11—The TCU AUTO Mode Software Module Has an Error
Failure Reason:
• The engine ECU is not providing valid data.
• There is faulty data in programmable memory (EEPROM).
• The SmartShift lever is defective.
• One of the shift position sensors (gear or rail) has failed.
• One of the output shaft speed sensors has failed.
• The transmission is not properly calibrated.
• There is a defect in the brake pedal switch.
• There is a defect in the throttle pedal switch.
Problem Procedure Result Action
The brake pedal Use the ServiceLink AGS template to check the The template does not Check the function of
switch is defective. functionality of the brake pedal switch. show brake pedal the brake pedal. See
activation. Section 25.02 for
procedures.
The template shows Go to the next step in
brake pedal activation. the table.
The throttle pedal Use the ServiceLink AGS template to check the The template does not Check the function of
switch is defective. functionality of the throttle pedal switch. show throttle pedal the throttle pedal. See
activation. Section 25.02 for
procedures.
The template shows Contact Freightliner
throttle pedal Technical Service
activation. Support.
Table 2, The TCU AUTO Mode Software Module Has an Error
Clutch Position Sensor Faults • For PID 33, FMI 04, see Table 3 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
There are five clutch position sensor faults covered • For PID 33, FMI 05, see Table 4 for proce-
in these procedures. Each one requires a separate dures and pin identification.
electrical test.
• For PID 33, FMI 14, see Table 5 for proce-
• For PID 33, FMI 02, see Table 1 for proce- dures and pin identification.
dures and pin identification.
• For PID 33, FMI 03, see Table 2 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
PID 33, FMI 02—The Clutch Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the clutch position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
PID 33, FMI 02—The Clutch Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the clutch position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
PID 33, FMI 03—The Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Power
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484c
PID 33, FMI 04—The Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the clutch position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
PID 33, FMI 04—The Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the clutch position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
PID 33, FMI 14—The Clutch Position Sensor Gives Incorrect Resistance Readings
Failure Reason:
• The resistance values broadcast on the datalink
are not plausible.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the clutch position sensor.
2 5 8 11 14
• There is a defect in the TCU.
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484b
Gear Position Sensor Faults • For PID 59, FMI 04, see Table 3 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
There are five gear position sensor faults covered in • For PID 59, FMI 05, see Table 4 for proce-
these procedures. Each one requires a separate dures and pin identification.
electrical test.
• For PID 59, FMI 14, see Table 5 for proce-
• For PID 59, FMI 02, see Table 1 for proce- dures and pin identification.
dures and pin identification.
• For PID 59, FMI 03, see Table 2 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
PID 59, FMI 02—The Gear Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
PID 59, FMI 02—The Gear Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
PID 59, FMI 02—The Gear Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
PID 59, FMI 02—The Gear Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
PID 59, FMI 03—The Gear Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Power
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484e
PID 59, FMI 03—The Gear Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Power
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484e
PID 59, FMI 04—The Gear Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484f
PID 59, FMI 04—The Gear Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484f
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
07/16/2004 X2 f544484d
PID 59, FMI 14—The Gear Position Sensor Gives Incorrect Resistance Readings
Failure Reason:
• The resistance values broadcast on the datalink are not plausible.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the gear position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
Problem Procedure Result Action
Pins on the X2 Do the "Harness Visual Check, Connectors and/or pins are Replace the damaged
connector or the Gear Position Sensor." damaged, soiled, worn, broken, components.
gear position sensor or corroded.
connector are not
making good All connectors and pins are OK. Go to the next row in the table.
contact.
The gear position Disconnect the gear position The resistance is less than 34 Replace the x-y actuator. See
sensor is not sensor wiring. Check for or greater than 122 ohms. Subject 170.
providing the correct resistance between pins 1 and 2
Contact Mercedes-Benz
resistance data. of the sensor connector.
Transmissions Service Support
with the AGS codes and results
of the electrical pre-test.
NOTE: One hour of
troubleshooting time is alloted
for printing the AGS codes and
completing the electrical pre-
test.
1. Using ServiceLink, print the
The resistance is between 34 AGS codes (130).
and 122 ohms.
2. Complete the electrical pre-
test result sheet in
Subject 301.
3. With the results, contact
Mercedes-Benz Transmissions
Service Support by fax
(503.961.8435), email
(MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone
(503.745.4965 or
503.745.4988).
Table 5, The Gear Position Sensor Gives Incorrect Resistance Readings
Harness Visual Check, Gear transmission wiring harness. See Subject 180
for procedures.
Position Sensor 2. Check the pins on the X2 male connector. If any
pin(s) on the connector is damaged, soiled,
1. Remove the X2 female connector from the TCU.
worn, broken, or corroded, replace the TCU. See
Check the plugs on the connector. If any plug(s)
Subject 110 for procedures.
in the connector is damaged, soiled, worn, bro-
ken, or corroded, replace the connector. If no 3. Remove the female connector from the gear po-
female connectors are available, replace the sition sensor. If any plug(s) in the connector is
Rail Position Sensor Faults • For PID 60, FMI 04, see Table 3 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
There are five rail position sensor faults covered in • For PID 60, FMI 05, see Table 4 for proce-
these procedures. Each one requires a separate dures and pin identification.
electrical test.
• For PID 60, FMI 14, see Table 5 for proce-
• For PID 60, FMI 02, see Table 1 for proce- dures and pin identification.
dures and pin identification.
• For PID 60, FMI 03, see Table 2 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
PID 60, FMI 02—The Rail Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the rail position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484g
PID 60, FMI 02—The Rail Position Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the rail position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484g
PID 60, FMI 03—The Rail Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Power
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484h
PID 60, FMI 03—The Rail Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Power
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU.
1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484h
PID 60, FMI 04—The Rail Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the rail position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
08/11/2005 X2 f544484i
PID 60, FMI 04—The Rail Position Sensor Circuit Is Shorted to Ground
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the rail position sensor.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
08/11/2005 X2 f544484i
07/16/2004 X2 f544484g
07/16/2004 X2 f544484g
PID 60, FMI 14—The Rail Position Sensor Gives Incorrect Resistance Readings
Failure Reason:
• The resistance values broadcast on the
datalink are not plausible.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the rail position sensor.
2 5 8 11 14
• There is a defect in the TCU.
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484g
Harness Visual Check, Rail 3. Remove the female connector from the rail posi-
tion sensor. If any plug(s) in the connector is
Position Sensor damaged, soiled, worn, broken, or corroded, re-
place the connector. If no female connectors are
1. Remove the X2 female connector from the TCU. available, replace the transmission wiring har-
Check the plugs on the connector. If any plug(s) ness. See Subject 180 for procedures.
in the connector is damaged, soiled, worn, bro-
4. Check the pins on the male connector of the rail
ken, or corroded, replace the connector. If no position sensor. If any pin(s) on the connector is
female connectors are available, replace the
damaged, soiled, worn, broken, or corroded, re-
transmission wiring harness. See Subject 180
place the x-y actuator assembly. See Sub-
for procedures.
ject 170 for procedures.
2. Check the pins on the X2 male connector. If any
pin(s) on the connector is damaged, soiled,
worn, broken, or corroded, replace the TCU. See
Subject 110 for procedures.
Vehicle Direction Signal Faults • For PID 64, FMI 09, see Table 1 for proce-
dures.
There are two vehicle direction signal faults covered • For PID 64, FMI 11, see Table 1 for proce-
in these procedures. There is one procedure to cor- dures.
rect both faults.
PID 64, FMI 09, 11—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Not Providing Accurate Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in one or both of the output shaft
speed sensors.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the TCU.
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
PID 64, FMI 09, 11—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Not Providing Accurate Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in one or both of the output shaft
speed sensors.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the TCU.
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
PID 64, FMI 09, 11—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Not Providing Accurate Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in one or both of the output shaft
speed sensors.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the TCU.
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
PID 64, FMI 09, 11—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Not Providing Accurate Data
Failure Reason:
• There is a defect in one or both of the output shaft
speed sensors.
• There is a defect in the wiring. 1 4 7 10 13
• There is a defect in the TCU.
2 5 8 11 14
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
Ignition Power Supply Faults • For PID 158, FMI 00, see Table 1 for proce-
dures and pin identification.
There are two ignition power circuit faults covered in • For PID 158, FMI 01, see Table 2 for proce-
these procedures. Each one requires a different elec- dures and pin identification.
trical test.
PID 158, FMI 00—The Voltage in the Ignition Power Circuit Is Too High
Failure Reason:
• There is a problem in the vehicle starting and/or
charging system.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483c
PID 158, FMI 01—The Voltage in the Ignition Power Circuit Is Too Low
Failure Reason:
• The battery needs charging or replacing.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 21 18 15 12 9 6 3
20 17 14 11 8 5 2
19 16 13 10 7 4 1
07/16/2004 X1 f544483c
Input Shaft Speed Sensor • For PID 161, FMI 02, 03, 04, and 05, see
Table 1 for procedures.
Faults • For PID 161, FMI 08, see Table 2 for proce-
dures.
There are five input shaft speed sensor faults cov-
ered in these procedures. One troubleshooting pro-
cedure is used to correct FMI 02, 03, 04, and 05. A
separate procedure is used for FMI 08.
PID 161, FMI 02, 03, 04, 05—The Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Gives Invalid Data, Is Shorted, or Open
Failure Reason
• There is a defect in the input shaft speed sensor.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
• The resistance values broadcast on the datalink are 2 5 8 11 14
not plausible.
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484j
PID 161, FMI 02, 03, 04, 05—The Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Gives Invalid Data, Is Shorted, or Open
Failure Reason
• There is a defect in the input shaft speed sensor.
• There is a defect in the wiring.
• There is a defect in the TCU. 1 4 7 10 13
• The resistance values broadcast on the datalink are 2 5 8 11 14
not plausible.
3 6 9 12 15
07/16/2004 X2 f544484j
PID 161, FMI 08—The Input Shaft Speed Sensor Is Broadcasting an Abnormal Frequency
Failure Reason
• There is a defect in the input shaft
speed sensor.
• The input shaft speed sensor is im- 1 4 7 10 13
properly mounted.
2 5 8 11 14
• There is a defect in the TCU.
• The datalink does not recognize the 3 6 9 12 15
transmission type.
07/16/2004 X2 f544484j
Output Shaft Speed Sensor • For PID 191, FMI 02, 05, and 08 see Table 1
for procedures and pin identification.
Faults (PID 191) • For PID 191, FMI 14, see Table 2 for proce-
dures.
There are four output shaft speed sensor faults cov-
ered in these procedures. One troubleshooting pro-
cedure is used to correct FMI 02, 05, and 08. A
separate procedure is used for FMI 14.
PID 191, FMI 02, 05, 08—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Gives Invalid Data, Is Open, or Not Broadcasting
a Signal
Failure Reason:
• The TCU has a hardware prob-
lem.
• The sensor is mounted too loose
(air gap too big). 1 4 7 10 13
• The sensor connectors are dam- 2 5 8 11 14
aged or bent.
3 6 9 12 15
• The wiring harness has had an
electrical failure.
• Either one of the sensors or the 07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
TCU has failed.
Procedure Results Action
Turn on the ignition switch and wait for Fault code SID 254, FMI 12 is active. Go to Subject 309 and troubleshoot
the current gear display to power up. SID 254, FMI 12.
SID 254, FMI 12 is not active. Go to the next row in the table.
Remove both output shaft speed The fault clears after a test drive. No further action needed.
sensors. Reinstall and tighten the sensor
28 lbf·ft (38 N·m). The fault remains active. Go to the next row in the table.
Turn off the ignition switch and wait for The connector pins are damaged or Repair or replace the damage.
the current gear display to power down. bent.
Remove both sensor connectors and
There is no damage to either Go to the next row in the table.
visually inspect the pins.
connector.
Check the upper sensor for continuity: There is an open circuit. Replace the transmission wiring
(1) X2 connector pin 1 to sensor pin 2; harness (see Subject 180).
(2) X2 connector pin 15 to sensor pin 1;
(3) X2 connector pin 14 to sensor pin 4. The wiring is OK. Go to the next row in the table.
Check the lower sensor for continuity: There is an open circuit. Replace the transmission wiring
(1) X2 connector pin 1 to sensor pin 2; harness (see Subject 180).
(2) X2 connector pin 15 to sensor pin 1;
(3) X2 connector pin 9 to sensor pin 3. The wiring is OK. Go to the next row in the table.
Check all four pins of each sensor Voltage or continuity is found. Replace the transmission wiring
connector for voltage and for continuity harness (see Subject 180).
to ground.
There is zero voltage and no continuity. Go to the next row in the table.
PID 191, FMI 02, 05, 08—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Gives Invalid Data, Is Open, or Not Broadcasting
a Signal
Failure Reason:
• The TCU has a hardware prob-
lem.
• The sensor is mounted too loose
(air gap too big). 1 4 7 10 13
• The sensor connectors are dam- 2 5 8 11 14
aged or bent.
3 6 9 12 15
• The wiring harness has had an
electrical failure.
• Either one of the sensors or the 07/16/2004 X2 f544484k
TCU has failed.
Procedure Results Action
Using a sensor known to be good, The fault becomes inactive. No further action needed.
replace each sensor in turn (see
The fault is still active. Contact Mercedes-Benz Transmissions
Subject 120 for procedures).
Service Support with the AGS codes
and results of the electrical pre-test.
NOTE: One hour of troubleshooting
time is alloted for printing the AGS
codes and completing the electrical
pre-test.
1. Using ServiceLink, print the AGS
codes (130).
2. Complete the electrical pre-test
result sheet in Subject 301.
3. With the results, contact Mercedes-
Benz Transmissions Service Support
by fax (503.961.8435), email
(MBTServiceSupport@
Freightliner.com), or phone
(503.745.4965 or 503.745.4988).
Table 1, The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Gives Invalid Data, Is Open, or Not Broadcasting a Signal
PID 191, FMI 14—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason
• The antilock brake system (ABS) is not broadcasting wheel speed data.
• There is a defective output shaft speed sensor.
Procedure Result Action
Check for other PID 191 fault codes. Other PID 191 fault codes Troubleshoot PID 191. See
are active. Table 1.
No other PID 191 fault Go to the next step in the
codes are active. table.
PID 191, FMI 14—The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
Failure Reason
• The antilock brake system (ABS) is not broadcasting wheel speed data.
• There is a defective output shaft speed sensor.
Procedure Result Action
Check for active fault codes in MID 136 (ABS). Active MID 136 fault codes Troubleshoot the ABS system
are found. (see the applicable section in
Group 42).
Table 2, The Output Shaft Speed Sensor Is Providing Invalid Data
For a schematic of the AGS transmission wiring be- For a list of special tools, see Table 1.
hind the X2 (transmission) connector, see Fig. 1. For
a schematic of the AGS transmission wiring behind
the X1 (main vehicle) and X3 (electric motor) con-
nectors, see drawing G06-49466.
Input Shaft Speed Output Shaft Speed Sensor Output Shaft Speed Sensor
Sensor (9:00 position) (11:00 position)
3 2 2
S GND S GND
+12V +12V
2 1 1 1
13 11 9 14 15 1
X2 Connector
7 3 2 6 10 5 4 12
2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1
Gear Position Sensor Rail Position Sensor Clutch Position Sensor Fluid Level Sensor
(Front) (Rear) (Pentosin)
Circuit is closed when full
02/01/2005 f544529
f580381
f580379a
f580379
f580380
f580382
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
rear tires. 1
2. Drain the transmission fluid. See Fig. 1 for the 2 3
location of the drain plug.
3 2
05/22/2001 f261102
4. Remove the shift lever from the transmission. 1. Midship Bracket 3. Driveshaft
2. Mounting Bolt
4.1 Before removing the shift lever, place the
transmission in high gear. Fig. 3, Midship Bearing Bracket
4.2 Remove the four screws from the retaining installation, mark the head of the shift le-
ring around the shift lever boot. See ver and the attachment point on the trans-
Fig. 5. Remove the ring and the boot. mission with a paint pen.
4.3 Remove the head of the shift lever from 5. Remove the fuel lines and the fuel line standoff
the transmission. See Fig. 6. For ease of bracket from the transmission. See Fig. 7.
1
2
01/28/99 f261007
06/06/2001 f261108
1. Shift Lever
2. Shift Lever Mounting Bolt
3. Thick Washer
4. Head of Shift Lever
Fig. 6, Shift Lever Connection
WARNING
Do not press down on the clutch pedal after re-
moving the slave cylinder. Hydraulic brake fluid
may squirt out, causing personal injury and dam-
age to the vehicle.
07/14/94 f260074a 7. Remove the bolts that attach the clutch slave
cylinder to the mounting flange on the gear case.
Fig. 5, Shift Lever and Boot Move the slave cylinder out of the way. See
Fig. 8.
1
06/05/2001 f261009
1 2
2
05/24/2001 f261107
05/14/2001 1 f261106
1. M8 Bolts 3. Slave Cylinder 1. Battery Cable
2. Bleed Valve 2. Battery Cable Clamp
Fig. 8, Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder 3. Battery Cable Bracket
Fig. 10, Battery Cable Routing
8. Bend back the nut retainers and remove the
power take-off unit (PTO), if installed. See Fig. 9. 12. Remove the exhaust clamp at the exhaust elbow.
9. If the vehicle is equipped with optional dual fuel For ease of transmission removal and installa-
tanks, remove the fuel cross-over line and its tion, move the exhaust pipe to the side and out
support between the tanks. of the way.
10. Disconnect the electrical cable from the speed- 13. Support the transmission with a jack. See
ometer sensor and mark it with a paint pen for Fig. 11.
ease of installation. See Fig. 7. 13.1 Position a transmission jack under the
11. Remove the battery cable bracket(s) around the transmission and raise its support plates
transmission and move the battery cables out of against the base of the transmission.
the way. See Fig. 10. 13.2 Adjust the support plates to cradle the
transmission.
01/29/99 f261011
03/01/99 f261014
1. Transmission 3. Jack
2. Support Plate
Fig. 11, Supporting the Transmission
CAUTION
Do not allow the rear of the transmission to drop,
and do not allow the transmission to hang un- 01/29/99 f261013
supported. Keep the flange of the bell housing
parallel (all the way around) to the flange of the Make sure that the transmission is firmly secured and
well supported.
timing case, until the input shaft is clear of the
Fig. 13, Transmission Ready To Remove
1.5 Remove the chain around the transmis- 5.2 Install the U-joint end caps on the output
sion and the jack; then remove the jack. yoke. Tighten the bolt heads 50 lbf·ft (68
N·m) for 3/8-inch end cap bolts and 110
2. Install the exhaust clamp at the exhaust elbow, lbf·ft (149 N·m) for 1/2-inch end cap bolts.
as removed.
5.3 Install the midship bearing bracket, as re-
3. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional dual moved. Tighten the nuts 95 lbf·ft (129
fuel tanks, install the fuel cross-over line and its N·m).
support between the tanks. Tighten the clamps
8.2 Coat the hardened M10 x 20 shift lever Fig. 15, Transmission Fluid Level Checking
mounting bolt with Loctite 242 or equiva-
lent thread-locking compound. 14. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
1. Remove the transmission. For detailed proce- 1. Make sure that the indent in the shift rod end
dures, see Subject 100. (shown by the arrow in Fig. 2) is facing aft for
proper engagement with the setscrew.
2. Secure the transmission on a wooden pallet, or
other device to keep it from moving. 2. Install the shift rod in the front gear case.
3. Make sure the transmission is in neutral. 2.1 Insert the shift rod into the front gear
case.
4. Remove the four capscrews that attach the shift
rod housing to the flange on the front gear case. 2.2 Turn the shift rod until the dimple is at the
See Fig. 1. 9 o’clock position.
3. Install the shift rod housing on the front gear
case.
3.1 Push the housing in until the indent in the
rod end is showing in the setscrew hole.
3.2 Coat the threads of a new setscrew with
1
Loctite® 242 or equivalent thread-locking
compound. Insert the new setscrew and
tighten it 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m). See Fig. 3.
3.3 Install a new shift rod cover in the shift
2
cover housing.
3.4 Position the shift rod housing over the
flange in the front gear case. Coat the
3 mating surfaces with a bead of Loctite 509
03/01/2005 f261178
or equivalent sealing compound.
1. Front Gear Case
2. Shift Rod Housing Capscrew 3.5 Install the four capscrews that attach the
3. Shift Rod Housing shift rod housing to the front gear case.
Coat the threads of the two lower cap-
Fig. 1, Shift Mechanism screws with Loctite 242 or equivalent
thread-locking compound. Tighten all four
5. Remove the shift rod from the front gear case.
capscrews 18 lbf·ft (25 N·m).
5.1 From the right-hand side of the transmis-
4. Install the transmission. For detailed procedures,
sion, remove the setscrew that holds the
see Subject 100.
end of the shift rod. Discard the old set-
screw.
5.2 Remove and discard the shift rod cover
from the right-hand side of the gear case.
5.3 Pull the shift rod all the way out of the
gear case.
08/23/2002 f261179
Indent must face aft as shift rod is installed.
Fig. 2, Shift Rod End
08/23/2002 f261180
Dimple must be at the 9 o’clock position.
Fig. 3, Shift Mechanism Setscrew
Special Tools
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580393
Removal
4
1. With the transmission removed from the vehicle
and secured to keep it from moving, remove the
shift mechanism. For instructions, see Sub- 1
ject 110. 5
3 2
2. Remove the front gear case. For instructions,
see Subject 150.
3. Remove the input shaft radial seal. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 130.
4. Remove and discard the upper snap ring under-
6
neath the radial seal. See Fig. 1.
5. Press the input shaft out of the front gear case.
6. Using the snap ring removal tool, remove and
discard the half-round snap ring under the deep-
groove ball bearing. See Table 1 for tool informa-
tion and Fig. 2 for tool application. 10/11/2002 f261222
7. Press the deep-groove ball bearing out of the 1. Input Shaft Radial Seal
front gear case. 2. Upper Snap Ring
3. Front Gear Case
4. Deep-Groove Ball Bearing
Installation 5. Half-Round Snap Ring
6. Input Shaft
1. Heat the front gear case in the area of the bear- Fig. 1, Input Shaft Assembly
ing seat to 176°F (80°C).
2. When the gear case is properly heated, install
IMPORTANT: Press only on the outer race of the deep-groove ball bearing into its seat. Install
the deep-groove ball bearing. a new half-round snap ring.
3. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between
the deep-groove ball bearing and the half-round
02/07/2005 f261332
1. Snap Ring Removal Tool
2. Half-Round Snap Ring
Special Tools
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Replacement CAUTION
1. Remove the transmission. For detailed proce- To prevent damage, make sure that the new ra-
dures, see Subject 100. dial seal is not installed on the race of the old
2. Secure the transmission on a wooden pallet, or seal.
other device to keep it from moving. 6. Using the input shaft seal installer, install a new
3. Remove the release fork and release bearing. radial seal on the input shaft. See Table 1 for
tool information and Fig. 2 for tool application.
NOTE: On AGS transmissions, remove the
clutch actuator. For procedures, see Sec-
tion 26.03, Subject 120.
1
4. Remove the guide tube from the transmission
case. Discard the mounting bolts. See Fig. 1.
5. Remove the radial seal from the input shaft. Dis-
card the old radial seal.
3
2
1 2 3 4
02/22/2005 f261100a 02/18/2005 f261348
1. Guide Tube Mounting Capscrew 1. Plastic Hammer 3. Front Gear Case
2. Guide Tube 2. Input Seal Installer
3. Radial Seal
4. Input Shaft Fig. 2, Installing the Input Shaft Radial Seal
Fig. 1, Input Shaft Radial Seal Replacement
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580398
1
2
02/17/2005 f261335
1. Universal Handle 3. Radial Seal
2. Seal Installer 4. Output Shaft
f580397
f580399
Table 1, Special Tools for Front Gear Case Removal and Installation
2 4
02/16/2005 f261346
NOTE: The release bearing has been removed for clar-
ity.
1 1. Input Shaft 3. Rear Gear Case
2. Front Gear Case 4. Puller/Installer/Stand
13. On model 660 only, pull out the two shift fork
guide pins, one located on the left-hand side in
the flanged mating surface of the shift rod hous-
ing and the other on the right-hand side of the
2
front gear case next to the shift cover (this pin
has a T60 Torx® head). See Fig. 5.
3 2
5 4
1
08/23/2002 f261183
NOTE: The release bearing has been removed for clar-
ity. 1
1. Front Gear Case 09/26/2002 f261186
2. Release Fork
3. Pressure Point NOTE: The shift fork guide pins are installed on Model
4. Input Shaft 660 only.
5. Front Countershaft Seal Cover 1. Shift Fork Guide Pin (left-hand side)
2. Flange
Fig. 3, Front End of Transmission
Fig. 5, Pulling the Left-Hand Shift Fork Guide Pin
08/23/2002 f261184
1. Front Gear Case 3. Rear Gear Case
2. Gear Case
Capscrew 3
Fig. 6, Gear Case Capscrews 5
4
1
08/27/2002 f261185
1. Input Shaft 4. Rear Gear Case
2. Front Gear Case 5. Countershaft
3. Main Shaft
2
Fig. 8, Removing the Front Gear Case
1 1
4 3
5
06/15/2005 f261344a
1. Socket Wrench
2. T-Bar Puller
3. Bridge
4. Gear Case Capscrew (used to fasten bridge)
5. Front Gear Case
02/17/2005 f261347
Installation
NOTE: If either gear case half, the main shaft
bearings, or the input shaft was replaced, check 1
the main shaft end play. For detailed proce-
dures, see Subject 250. 2
1. Lubricate the pilot bearing with approved trans-
mission oil. Install the pilot bearing on the main
shaft.
2. Remove the synchro retainer clips from the 5th/
3
6th gear synchros. 4
3. On model 660 only, install the 5th/6th gear fork
on the 5th/6th gear synchro slide and shift rail.
Make sure the shoes on the fork are properly
positioned. The finger of the 5th/6th gear fork
must engage the available notch in the shift rail.
See Fig. 10.
4. Apply a bead of Loctite® 509 or equivalent seal- 08/27/2002 f261188
ing compound along the entire mating surface of The finger of the 5th/6th gear fork must continue to en-
the rear gear case, going fully around each hole gage the available notch in the shift rail.
and cavity. 1. 5th/6th Gear Fork
5. Lift the front gear case onto the rear gear case. 2. Shift Rail
Carefully align the case over the shift rods. In- 3. Finger
stall the gear case capscrews and tighten them 4. Hole for Insertion of Shift Fork Guide Pin (model
660 only)
22 lbf·ft (30 N·m).
6. On model 660 only, check the 5th/6th gear fork Fig. 10, Correct Finger Engagement
through the opening for the shift rod housing to
make sure the correct engagement of the finger
has been maintained. See Fig. 10. Install the
shift rail detent bolts finger-tight.
7. Install the shift fork guide pins, if removed (model
660 only). See Fig. 11.
7.1 On the left-hand side, the pin slides in and
is held in place by the shift mechanism
when installed.
7.2 On the right-hand side, coat the threads of
the T60 Torx fastener with Loctite 242 or
equivalent thread-locking compound, and
tighten the fastener 88 lbf·ft (120 N·m).
8. Using a heat gun, warm the countershaft bearing 02/21/2005 f261352
seat to 176°F (80°C). Install the countershaft ball
Install the shift fork guide pins. On the right-hand side,
bearing on the countershaft by pressing on the
tighten the T60 Torx fastener (arrow).
inner race. Install two new snap rings.
NOTE: The shift fork guide pins are installed on Model
9. Assemble the countershaft seal cover installer 660 only.
onto the threaded end of the universal handle.
Fig. 11, Tighten the T60 Fastener
See Table 1.
10. Using the countershaft seal cover installer as- 17. Coat the mating surface of the rear countershaft
sembly, carefully press the front countershaft cover with Loctite 509 or equivalent sealing com-
seal cover onto the countershaft. See Fig. 12. pound. Install the rear countershaft cover.
Tighten the rear countershaft cover capscrews
2 18 lbf·ft (25 N·m).
1 18. Install the output shaft radial seal. For proce-
4
dures, see Subject 140. Install the output yoke
on the rear gear case.
19. Install the shift mechanism. For instructions, see
3 Subject 110.
02/11/2005 f261339
1. Front Gear Case
2. Universal Handle
3. Countershaft Seal Cover Installer
4. Input Shaft
f580395
f580397
f580391
Table 1, Special Tools for Rear Gear Case Removal and Installation
2 2
3
3
02/07/2005 f580403
1. Main Shaft Support (output end)
2. Main Shaft Support (input end) 4
3. Countershaft Support 03/02/2005 5 f261345
6.1 Coat the forcing screw running through Fig. 2, Transmission with the Rear Case Up
the puller body with J 23444-A extreme
pressure lubricant. 6.3 Attach a suitable wrench, socket or box-
end, to the nut at the top end of the forc-
NOTE: J 23444-A extreme pressure lubri- ing screw, and turn the large nut clockwise
cant can be ordered from SPX Kent-Moore until the reverse idler shaft is pulled up.
at 1-800-345-2233. Figure 4 shows the reverse idler shaft
ready for removal.
6.2 Insert the small-diameter threaded end of
the forcing screw into the reverse idler 6.4 Remove the reverse idler shaft and puller
shaft. Tighten the locknut on the forcing from the rear gear case. Separate the re-
screw against the reverse idler shaft. Fig- verse idler shaft from the puller.
ure 3 shows the reverse idler shaft puller 7. Make sure the speed sensor has been removed.
installed.
3
2
4
02/11/2005 f261340
4
1. Puller/Installer/Stand
2. Forcing Screw
3. Reverse Idler Shaft Puller
4. Rear Gear Case
Fig. 3, Reverse Idler Shaft Puller Installed
5
03/01/2005 f261341
Hold with the socket wrench and turn with the open-end
wrench in the direction of the arrow.
1. Socket Wrench on 4. Open-End Wrench
Jam Nut on Working Nut
2. All-Thread Rod 5. Rear Gear Case
3. Puller/Installer/Stand
4
Fig. 5, Raising the Rear Gear Case
1
8.1 Install the all-thread rod and two nuts
through the puller/installer/stand and into
the output shaft. Lubricate the rod threads
with high-pressure grease. Tighten one
nut against the other to create a jam nut.
2
8.2 Using a socket wrench, hold the jam nut
at the head of the all-thread rod.
3
8.3 Install two washers between the puller/
02/14/2005 f261342 installer/stand and the working nut. Using
1. Reverse Idler Shaft Puller an open-end wrench, turn the working nut
2. Reverse Idler Shaft (pulled up) counterclockwise.
3. Rear Gear Case
4. Puller/Installer/Stand 8.4 Keep turning the working nut until the rear
case releases from the main shaft.
Fig. 4, Reverse Idler Shaft (ready for removal)
8.5 Remove the all-thread rod from the output
shaft.
9. Carefully lift the rear gear case off the gear 2. Install the shift rails and forward shift forks on the
shafts. See Fig. 6. Leave the puller/installer/ gear shafts.
stand installed.
3. Install the countershaft guide. For more informa-
tion about the countershaft guide, see Table 1.
Figure 7 shows the guide installed on the coun-
1 tershaft.
2
2 1
3
3
4
5
7
09/17/2002 f261197
1
2 1
3 2
6 09/16/2002
3 f261193
1
2
03/02/2005 5 f261195
1. All-Thread Rod 4. Bolt Hole
2. Puller/Installer/Stand 5. Detent (in shift rail)
3. Rear Gear Case
Special Tools
A special tool is required for these procedures. See
Table 1.
f580395
Table 1, Special Tool for Reverse, First, and Second Gear Disassembly
Reverse Gear 2
1. Secure the transmission on a wooden pallet, or
other device to keep it from moving.
2. Remove the shift mechanism. For instructions, 1 3
see Subject 110.
3. Remove the front gear case. For instructions,
see Subject 150.
4. Remove the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160. 4
5. Make sure the twin gear shafts are supported on
the main shaft/countershaft stand. See Table 1.
6. Remove the shift bars and shift forks from the 5
transmission. See Fig. 1.
6.1 Lift the 5th/6th gear fork off the shift bars.
6.2 Pull the remaining shift forks and shift
bars away from the main shaft as a group. 6
6.3 Tie the shift bars and forks together. 8 7
7. Inspect the synchro rings for compliance with the
wear limits given in Subject 240. 02/08/2005 f261227
8. Remove the reverse gear wheel and needle 1. Countershaft 5. 1st/2nd Gear Fork
bearing from the main shaft. 2. Main Shaft 6. Clamp
3. 5th/6th Gear Fork 7. Shift Bars
4. 3rd/4th Gear Fork 8. Stand
First Gear
Fig. 1, Shift Bars and Forks
1. Using suitable snap ring pliers, remove the 1st snap ring thickness and record it. Discard the
gear snap ring from the main shaft. Measure the snap ring after recording its thickness.
3
2 2 1
09/18/2002 f261201
NOTE: The mounts of the 2nd gear outer synchro cup
must engage in the large recesses in the synchro body.
1. Slot for Compression Spring
2. Tooth Flank
3. Large Recess
09/26/2002 f261216 Fig. 3, 1st/2nd Gear Synchro Body
1. 1st Gear Wheel 2. Needle Bearing
Fig. 2, 1st Gear Wheel and Needle Bearing
Second Gear
1. Remove the 1st/2nd gear synchro slide collar 09/16/2002 f261202
carefully from the synchro body.
Insert the snap ring pliers here.
2. Remove the compression springs and spring Fig. 4, 2nd Gear Snap Ring
holders from the synchro body. Remove the syn-
chro body from the main shaft. See Fig. 3.
3. Using snap ring pliers, remove the 2nd gear
snap ring from the synchro body. Measure the
snap ring thickness and record it. Discard the
snap ring after recording its thickness. See
Fig. 4.
4. Remove the synchro body from the main shaft.
5. Remove the 2nd gear outer synchro cup.
6. Remove the 2nd gear synchro ring and inner
synchro cone.
7. Remove the 2nd gear driver, wheel, and needle
bearing. See Fig. 5.
3
09/17/2002 f261203
1. Short Teeth 3. Needle Bearing
2. 2nd Gear Wheel
Fig. 5, 2nd Gear Wheel and Needle Bearing
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580392
f580395
2. Remove the rear gear case. For instructions, see 9. Replace the main shaft on the main shaft/
Subject 160. countershaft stand, with the output end down.
See Table 1.
3. Remove the reverse gear and the 1st gear from
the main shaft. For instructions, see Sub- 10. Remove the lifting device from the countershaft.
ject 170. NOTE: Do not attempt to disassemble the coun-
4. Remove the 2nd gear from the main shaft. See tershaft. If there is damage, replace the entire
Subject 170 for instructions. countershaft. For further disassembly of the
main shaft gears, see Subject 190 and Sub-
5. Attach the main shaft/countershaft lifting device ject 200.
to the input ends of the main shaft and counter-
shaft. For more information about the special
tool, see Table 1. See Fig. 1 for the countershaft Installation
with the tool installed.
1. Carefully mesh the teeth of the countershaft
6. Attach a hoist to the ring of the lifting device. Lift gears with the teeth of the main shaft gears.
the two shafts in the air.
2. Lay the main shaft on the bench and attach a
7. Remove the main shaft/countershaft stand. hoist or other lifting device to the ring of the lift-
ing device and raise the main shaft off the stand.
3. Fasten the countershaft to the lifting device.
2 1
1
3
7
03/02/2005 f261213
Fifth Gear
1. Remove the front gear case. For instructions,
see Subject 150.
2. Remove the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160.
3. Remove the reverse gear and the 1st gear from
the main shaft. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 170.
4. Remove the 2nd gear from the main shaft. For
instructions, see Subject 170.
09/17/2002 f261198
5. Separate the countershaft from the main shaft.
For instructions, see Subject 180. Fig. 2, 5th/6th Gear Snap Ring
6. Remove the 5th gear synchro cone and synchro 4. Remove the 6th gear synchro ring and cone.
ring from the main shaft.
5. Inspect the synchro rings for compliance with the
wear limits given in Subject 240.
Sixth Gear
6. Remove the 6th gear wheel and needle bearing.
1. Carefully remove the 5th/6th gear synchro slide See Fig. 3.
collar from the synchro body. Take care to extract
the compression springs and spring holders from
the synchro body. See Fig. 1.
1
1
2 2
3
4
09/18/2002 f261199
Fourth Gear
1. Remove the front gear case. For instructions,
see Subject 150.
2. Remove the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160.
1
3. Remove the reverse gear and the 1st gear from
the main shaft. For instructions, see Sub- 2
ject 170.
4. Remove the 2nd gear from the main shaft. For
3
instructions, see Subject 170.
5. Separate the countershaft from the main shaft.
For instructions, see Subject 180.
6. Remove the 5th and 6th gears from the main
shaft. For instructions, see Subject 190. 4
5
7. Using snap ring pliers, remove the 4th gear snap
ring from the main shaft. Measure the snap ring
thickness and record it. Discard the snap ring
after recording its thickness. See Fig. 1.
09/23/2002 f261224
1. Thrust Washer
2. 4th Gear Wheel
3. Driver Teeth
4. Teeth of Slide
5. 3rd/4th Gear Synchro Slide Collar
09/17/2002 f261198
1
Fig. 1, 4th Gear Snap Ring
Third Gear 1
1. Carefully remove the 3rd/4th gear synchro slide
collar from the synchro body. Take care to extract
the compression springs and spring holders from
the synchro body. See Fig. 4. 2
3
1
4
2
3
4
09/23/2002 f261208
5 1. Main Shaft 3 Synchro Body
6 2. Snap Ring 4. 3rd Gear Wheel
Fig. 5, 3rd Gear Snap Ring
1
09/27/2002 f261209 2
1. Main Shaft
2. Synchro Body
3. Inner Cone
4. Synchro Slide Collar
5. Outer Cone
6. 3rd Gear Wheel 3
10
11
3
12
13
5
8 14
7
15
9
10/11/2002 f261223
1. 4th Gear Inner Synchro Cone 9. 3rd Gear Outer Synchro Cup
2. 4th Gear Synchro Ring 10. 3rd Gear Synchro Ring
3. 4th Gear Outer Synchro Cup 11. 3rd Gear Inner Synchro Cone
4. 3rd/4th Gear Synchro Slide Collar 12. 3rd Gear Driver
5. 4th Gear Snap Ring 13. 3rd Gear Wheel
6. 3rd/4th Gear Synchro Body 14. 3rd Gear Needle Bearing
7. Compression Spring 15. Main Shaft (input end)
8. Spring Holder
2. Apply a coating of approved transmission oil to 7. Heat the thrust washer to 176°F (80°C). When
the 4th gear synchro ring. Mount the synchro heated, press it into the main shaft.
ring on the outer cup with the stop lugs facing
up. NOTE: Before installing, test the thickness of
the snap ring by inserting it into the gap be-
3. Slide the 4th gear inner synchro cone into the tween the main shaft and the thrust washer.
synchro ring with the stop lugs down. The stop
lugs of the inner cone must fit into the mounts on 8. Install a new snap ring inside the synchro body.
the outer cup. Make sure the snap ring is tight when installed,
with no free play. See Fig. 5.
4. Apply a coating of approved transmission oil to
the needle bearing. Fit the needle bearing onto
the main shaft.
5. Mount the driver on the main shaft. The asym-
metrical tooth tips must face down and the stop
lugs up. See Fig. 4. 1
2
3
1
5 4
5
2
3
6
09/23/2002 f261225
10/10/2002 f261221 1. Main Shaft
Mount the 4th gear driver with the asymmetric tooth tips 2. 4th Gear Snap Ring
facing down and the stop lugs up. 3. Thrust Washer
1. 4th Gear Snap Ring 4. 4th Gear Wheel
2. Thrust Washer 5. Driver Teeth
3. 4th Gear Wheel
4. Driver Teeth
Fig. 5, Snap Ring Installed
5. Needle Bearing 9. Install the 5th and 6th gears on the main shaft.
6. Main Shaft (output end)
For instructions, see Subject 220.
Fig. 4, 4th Gear Assembly 10. Install the countershaft on the main shaft. For
6. Mount the 4th gear wheel on the driver. Make instructions, see Subject 190.
sure the slots in the 4th gear wheel engage the 11. Install the 2nd gear on the main shaft. For in-
stop lugs on the top of the driver. structions, see Subject 230.
12. Install the reverse gear and the 1st gear on the
main shaft. For instructions, see Subject 230.
13. Install the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160.
14. Install the front gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 150.
10
3 11
12
5 6 7
10/10/2002 f261220
1. 5th Gear Synchro Cone 5. 5th/6th Gear Synchro Body 9. 6th Gear Synchro Cone
2. 5th Gear Synchro Ring 6. Compression Spring 10. 6th Gear Wheel
3. 5th/6th Gear Synchro Slide 7. Spring Holder 11. 6th Gear Needle Bearing
Collar 8. 6th Gear Synchro Ring 12. Main Shaft (input end)
4. Snap Ring
Fifth Gear
1. Insert the 5th gear synchro ring into the synchro
body. The large stop lugs of the 5th gear synchro
ring must engage in the large recesses of the
synchro body.
2. Insert the 5th gear synchro cone into the 5th
gear synchro ring.
3. Move the 5th/6th gear synchro slide collar into
neutral position.
4. Install the countershaft on the main shaft. For
instructions, see Subject 180.
5. Install the 2nd gear on the main shaft. For in-
structions, see Subject 230.
6. Install the reverse gear and the 1st gear on the
main shaft. For instructions, see Subject 230.
7. Install the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160.
8. Install the front gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 150.
7. Install the 1st/2nd gear synchro slide collar on 5. Install the shift mechanism. For instructions, see
the synchro body with the asymmetric tips of the Subject 100.
tooth flanks facing up. See Fig. 3.
IMPORTANT: On each synchro slide collar,
there are three shortened tooth flanks, evenly
spaced around the perimeter. The shortened
tooth flanks of the synchro slide collar should be
lined up with the shortened tooth flanks of the
synchro body.
8. Install the three compression springs into the
slots in the synchro body. Using a short-bladed
screwdriver, press them in until the spring holder
engages the tooth of the synchro slide collar.
See Fig. 4.
First Gear
1. Install the 1st gear outer synchro cup on the 1st/
2nd gear synchro body. The mounts of the outer
cup must engage in the recesses of the synchro
body.
1 10
11
2
13
12
3
14
15
4
16
17
18
7
8 19
9 20
10/11/2002 f261219
1. 1st Gear Snap Ring 8. 1st Gear Outer Synchro Cup 14. 2nd Gear Outer Synchro Cup
2. Inner Gear Wheel 9. 1st/2nd Gear Synchro Slide 15. 2nd Gear Synchro Ring
3. 1st Gear Wheel Collar 16. 2nd Gear Inner Synchro Cone
4. 1st Gear Driver 10. 2nd Gear Snap Ring 17. 2nd Gear Driver
5. 1st Gear Needle Bearing 11. 1st/2nd Gear Synchro Body 18. 2nd Gear Wheel
6. 1st Gear Inner Synchro Cone 12. Compression Spring 19. 2nd Gear Needle Bearing
7. 1st Gear Synchro Ring 13. Spring Holder 20. Main Shaft (output end)
1
1
3
2 4
3 09/23/2002 f261205
4 Press in the compression spring until the spring holder
engages the tooth of the synchro slide collar.
1. Synchro Body
09/20/2002 f261204 2. Synchro Slide Collar
1. Main Shaft 3. Compression Spring
2. 1st/2nd Gear Synchro Body 4. Spring Holder
3. Outer Cup Stop Lug 5. Short-Bladed Screwdriver
4. Inner Cone Mount Fig. 4, Pressing in the Compression Springs
Fig. 2, 2nd Gear Synchronizers
03/02/2005 f261200
Line up the shortened tooth flanks of the synchro slide
collar with the shortened tooth flanks of the synchro
body.
1. Shortened Tooth Flank
2. Long Tooth Flanks
Special Tools
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580395
Table 1, Special Tool for Reverse, First, and Second Gear Disassembly
8.1 Using the synchro slide collar, press the 3.2 Calculate the average value of the syn-
6th gear synchro ring down against the chromesh reserve.
6th gear wheel.
3.3 If the average value of the synchromesh
8.2 While pressing the synchro slide collar reserve is below the minimum dimension,
down, turn the 6th gear wheel. replace the 4th gear synchro ring.
NOTE: This step requires two persons. NOTE: Do not tilt or twist the synchro ring. This
9. While one person holds the synchro ring and
can cause the measurement to be incorrect.
gear wheel in place, the other person, using a 4. Put the 3rd gear outer synchro cup into position
feeler gauge, measures the synchromesh re- to measure the 3rd gear synchromesh reserve.
serve of the 6th gear. See Table 2 for specified
and minimum dimensions. 4.1 Using the synchro slide collar, press the
outer synchro cup down against the 3rd
9.1 Measure the synchromesh reserve over gear wheel.
the entire circumference of the ring.
4.2 While pressing the synchro slide collar
9.2 Calculate the average value of the syn- down, turn the 3rd gear wheel.
chromesh reserve.
NOTE: This step requires two persons.
9.3 If the average value of the synchromesh
reserve is below the minimum dimension, 5. While one person holds the outer synchro cup
replace the 6th gear synchro ring. and gear wheel in place, the other person, using
a feeler gauge, measures the synchromesh re-
serve of the 3rd gear. See Table 2 for specified
Fourth/Third Gear Inspection and minimum dimensions.
1. Move the 3rd/4th gear synchro slide collar into 5.1 Measure the synchromesh reserve over
the neutral position. the entire circumference of the outer syn-
chro cup.
NOTE: Do not tilt or twist the synchro ring. This
can cause the measurement to be incorrect. 5.2 Calculate the average value of the syn-
chromesh reserve.
2. Put the 4th gear outer synchro cup into position
to measure the 4th gear synchromesh reserve. 5.3 If the average value of the synchromesh
reserve is below the minimum dimension,
2.1 Using the synchro slide collar, push the replace the 3rd gear synchro ring.
outer synchro cup up against the 4th gear
wheel. Second/First Gear Inspection
2.2 While pushing the synchro slide collar up,
turn the 4th gear wheel. Verify that the 1. Move the 1st/2nd gear synchro slide collar into
synchro cup and cone are squarely the neutral position.
seated, without sliding into gear.
NOTE: Do not tilt or twist the synchro ring. This
NOTE: This step requires two persons. can cause the measurement to be incorrect.
3. While one person holds the outer synchro cup 2. Put the 2nd gear outer synchro cup into position
and gear wheel in place, the other person, using to measure the 2nd gear synchromesh reserve.
a feeler gauge, measures the synchromesh re-
serve of the 4th gear. See Table 2 for specified 2.1 Using the synchro slide collar, push the
and minimum dimensions. outer synchro cup up against the 2nd gear
wheel.
3.1 Measure the synchromesh reserve over
the entire circumference of the outer syn- 2.2 While pushing the synchro slide collar up,
chro cup. turn the 2nd gear wheel. Verify that the
synchro cup and cone are squarely
seated, without sliding into gear.
NOTE: This step requires two persons. 8. Install the front gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 150.
3. While one person holds the outer synchro cup
and gear wheel in place, the other person, using
a feeler gauge, measures the synchromesh re-
serve of the 2nd gear. See Table 2 for specified
and minimum dimensions.
3.1 Measure the synchromesh reserve over
the entire circumference of the outer syn-
chro cup.
3.2 Calculate the average value of the syn-
chromesh reserve.
3.3 If the average value of the synchromesh
reserve is below the minimum dimension,
replace the 2nd gear synchro ring.
NOTE: Do not tilt or twist the synchro ring. This
can cause the measurement to be incorrect.
4. Put the 1st gear outer synchro cup into position
to measure the 1st gear synchromesh reserve.
4.1 Using the synchro slide collar, press the
outer synchro cup down against the 1st
gear wheel.
4.2 While pressing the synchro slide collar
down, turn the 1st gear wheel.
NOTE: This step requires two persons.
5. While one person holds the outer synchro cup
and gear wheel in place, the other person, using
a feeler gauge, measures the synchromesh re-
serve of the 1st gear. See Table 2 for specified
and minimum dimensions.
5.1 Measure the synchromesh reserve over
the entire circumference of the outer syn-
chro cup.
5.2 Calculate the average value of the syn-
chromesh reserve.
5.3 If the average value of the synchromesh
reserve is below the minimum dimension,
replace the 1st gear synchro ring.
6. Install the reverse gear wheel and needle bear-
ing on the main shaft. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 170.
7. Install the rear gear case. For instructions, see
Subject 160.
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580397
f580402
1. Place the front case nose down. Install the rear 6. If the end play is within acceptable limits, con-
case on the puller/installer/stand, if not already tinue on to the next step. See Table 2 for ac-
done. ceptable limits.
2. Set up the main shaft end play measuring fixture If the end play is less than the acceptable limit,
on the front gear case with the crossbar flat on install a thinner thrust washer and repeat the
the gear case flange and its legs in the air. See measurements until the end play is acceptable.
Table 1. Lock down the upper thumbscrew at the If the end play is more than the acceptable limit,
point where the center shaft of the measuring install a thicker thrust washer and repeat the
fixture just touches the contact surface of the measurements until the end play is acceptable.
input shaft gear wheel. See Fig. 1.
3. Turn the end play measuringfixture over and set
it up on the rear gear case with the legs down,
resting on the gear case flange.
2 3 2
5
3
4 4 5
02/18/2005 f261349
3 4
02/21/2005 f261351
Gear Ratios
Model Gear Ratio
1 9.201
2 5.230
3 3.145
MBT520S-6D 4 2.034
5 1.374
6 1.000
R 8.649
1 6.700
2 3.810
3 2.290
MBT660S-6O 4 1.480
5 1.000
6 0.730
R 6.290
Table 3, Gear Ratios
f580391
f580392
f580393
f580395
f580397
f580398
f580399
f580402
A hybrid electric vehicle (HEV) has both a diesel en- The red service switch is located next to the high-
gine and an electric motor. The electric motor is pow- voltage cable connections at one end of the PEC.
ered by high-voltage batteries, which are charged by Push in the red service switch and shut down the
regenerative braking and, on vehicles equipped with engine. The hybrid system will be disabled, and the
the ePTO option, the diesel engine. With regenera- high-voltage batteries in the PEC, though still live,
tive braking, when the service brake is depressed (or are isolated in the PEC.
when the accelerator pedal is at idle while coasting),
the vehicle’s kinetic energy is captured and stored in NOTE: The PEC may be mounted in an area
the high-voltage batteries. When the batteries are with limited access.
fully charged, regenerative braking is disabled. Vehicles with the ePTO option are designed with a
safety switch to ensure the diesel engine does not
Hybrid Electric and Cooling start when the hood is open.
Systems Overview Safety Precautions
Eaton Corporation developed and supplies the hybrid
electric system for Freightliner Trucks. The primary The HEV has high-voltage components, including
system components are the hybrid drive unit (or 340-volt DC batteries and a 500-volt AC motor.
"HDU", which includes the electric generator/motor Never cut high-voltage cables or connectors. Do not
and automated transmission), Power Electronics Car- paint high-voltage cables.
rier (or "PEC", which contains the high-voltage, Avoid direct pressure wash on high-voltage connec-
lithium-ion batteries), and the inverter (which tions (PEC, DC/DC Converter) and the air intake and
changes DC to AC, and AC to DC). Electric Power exhaust on the PEC.
Take-Off (ePTO) and auxiliary power generator
(APG) components are optional on the HEV system.
For more information on the hybrid electric system, Emergency Shutdown
see Eaton’s website, www.roadranger.com.
The hybrid electric system has its own liquid cooling WARNING
system for the motor, inverter, DC/DC Converter (if After disabling the vehicle, power is maintained
ePTO equipped), and APG (if equipped). The system in the high-voltage electrical system for up to five
includes a radiator and fan, pump, reservoir, and minutes. Unprotected contact with any "live" high
plumbing that are separate from the engine cooling voltage components can cause serious injury or
system. See Fig. 1. For coolant, it uses a mixture of even death.
50 percent ethylene glycol and 50 percent water.
There are two options for performing an emergency
shutdown. The preferred method is to turn off the
Safety Features ignition key. The other option is to disconnect the
low-voltage (12-volt) vehicle batteries. In either case,
The HEV has high-voltage cables and a service the engine will shut down, dash lights will shut down,
switch on the PEC. The high-voltage cables are cov- the hybrid electrical system will shut down, and the
ered in orange insulation and conduit. High-voltage high-voltage batteries in the Power Electronics Car-
components are tagged with a warning or danger rier (PEC) will remain "live" but isolated in the PEC.
label.
NOTE: In an emergency, if the service switch on
IMPORTANT: The service switch on the PEC the PEC is accessible, it may be pushed in to
should only be used for an emergency shut- shut down the hybrid electrical system and iso-
down or when the troubleshooting guide or ser- late the "live" HEV batteries in the PEC.
vice manual calls for work on the high-voltage
system. The troubleshooting guide and service
manual for the hybrid electric system are avail-
able from www.roadranger.com.
1
B
2
8
5
A
7
6
04/03/2009 f261407
A. Direction of flow.
B. Installed on vehicles December 2008 and later.
1. Hybrid Drive Unit (HDU) 5. DC/DC Converter (ePTO vehicles only)
2. Coolant Reservoir 6. Coolant Pump
3. Inverter 7. Hybrid Cooler and Fan
4. Auxiliary Power Generator (optional) 8. Power Electronics Carrier (air-cooled)
Accelerator Pedal Assembly tor only one pole. When the accelerator pedal returns
to idle, the IVS moves to the "idle" position to signal
the engine that the pedal has returned to idle. The
The Williams electronic suspended accelerator pedal
IVS is not a serviceable part. If the IVS malfunctions,
provides an electrical signal to the engine in re-
the sensor must be replaced.
sponse to the driver’s demand for more engine
power. The accelerator pedal converts downward
pressure into an electrical signal via the pedal posi-
tion sensor.
11/18/2008 f300423
NOTE: Washers not shown
1. Fastener (4 qty.)
2. Pedal Position Sensor
Installation
1. Align the accelerator pedal assembly with the
mounting holes on the inside of the bulkhead.
2. Install the pedal assembly mounting fasteners
and tighten them 7 to 10 lbf·ft (9 to 14 N·m).
3. Connect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
ness. Using a tie strap, secure the wiring har-
ness to the air line.
4. Depress the accelerator pedal several times and
ensure that the pedal does not stick or bind.
1 2 3 4
11/18/2008 f300424
1. Accelerator Pedal Assembly
2. Pinion Gear
3. Pedal Position Sensor
4. Mounting Screws
7.1 Use EZWiring™ in ServicePro or PartsPro 9. Inspect and ensure that all connector pins at the
to identify the circuit(s) that supply voltage pedal position sensor, frontwall, and the engine
to the pedal position sensor. controller are free of corrosion and are not bent
or damaged. Inspect and ensure that the con-
IMPORTANT: The ignition key must be in the nections between the pins and the wires are se-
ON position. cure and also free of corrosion.
7.2 Disconnect the connector nearest the 10. If the problem has not been resolved, the prob-
pedal and measure the voltage supply. lem is not with the pedal position sensor. See the
8. If a 5-volt supply is not present, look for a fault in engine manufacturer’s service literature for fur-
the circuit between the pedal and the common ther guidance.
powertrain controller (Mercedes-Benz) or the
motor control module (Caterpillar and Cummins
engines).
Frame Stations
A frame station is a reference point on the frame rail
from which the location of each component (mounted
on the frame rail) is measured.
CAUTION
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- B
hicle, read and understand the welding precau-
tions in Subject 110. Disconnect the battery
power and ground cables and any electronic con- 1
trol units (ECUs) installed on the vehicle. Electric
currents produced during electric welding can
damage various electrical components on the ve-
hicle, such as alternator diodes and ECUs.
Freightliner LLC vehicle components that typi-
cally use ECUs include electronic engine, elec- 08/14/95 f310013a
A A
1 B
08/15/95 f310016a
08/14/95 f310014a
A. Frame Rail Thickness
A. Frame Rail Thickness B. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail.
1. V-Groove (full depth) 1. Crack
Fig. 3, Full Depth Groove Fig. 5, Weld Ground Flush
A A
B
C
08/15/95 f310017a
08/14/95 f310015a
A. Frame Rail Thickness A. Frame Rail Thickness
B. Clamp the chill strip on the opposite side of the B. Grind the V-groove deep enough to reach the
groove. weld.
C. Deposit weld material. Fig. 6, Cross-Section View
1. Crack
08/14/95 f310020a
A. 1-11/32 inches (34 mm)
Extending Frame Rails frame rail. The wire sections must be short
enough to be completely fused by the welding
process.
CAUTION
4. Using one of the methods in Subject 110, weld
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- the extension to the frame rail, making full pen-
hicle, read and understand the welding precau- etration. See Fig. 3. Remove any slag between
tions in Subject 110. Disconnect the battery passes, and back-gouge the root of the first vee
power and ground cables and any electronic con- before welding the other side.
trol units (ECUs) installed on the vehicle. Electric
currents produced during electric welding can
damage various electrical components on the ve-
CAUTION
hicle, such as alternator diodes and ECUs. Residual stresses will occur in the weld if the
web area is not welded first, or if the flanges con-
Steel frame rails can be lengthened by welding a tact each other when welding the web.
frame rail extension onto the rear of the frame rail.
The frame rail end and the extension piece are cut IMPORTANT: Weld the web area first, then the
so that they overlap each other. Obtain approval from flange, working from the inside of the channel.
your regional service representative before welding When welding the web, make sure that the
and lengthening the frame rail. flanges do not contact each other.
For any ECU with a battery power harness, discon- 5. When finished welding, sand the joint for appear-
nect its ground terminal from the chassis ground, and ance. Hold the sander so that the grind runs par-
disconnect its power terminal from the battery posi- allel with the length of the frame rail.
tive post. Or else disconnect the main connection at
the ECU.
CAUTION
Freightliner vehicle components that typically use
ECUs include the electronic engine, electronic auto- Do not "hollow grind" the weld. Small depres-
matic transmission, and the antilock braking system sions from improper grinding of the weld will re-
(ABS). duce the strength of the frame rail.
1. Cut the frame rail end and extension to the
specified applicable dimensions. See Fig. 1.
NOTE: If the length of the extension is to be 6
inches (152 mm) or less, then straight-cut the
frame rail end and extension.
2. Grind the cut ends of the frame rail and exten-
sion to the dimensions in Fig. 2.
3. Align the cut ends of the extension piece with the
cut ends of the frame rail so that there is a 1/16
to 1/8-inch (1.6 to 3.2-mm) gap between them.
See Fig. 3. Using a torch, heat the cut ends to
70°F (21°C), if necessary, before welding.
NOTE: A 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) gap is recom-
mended. The ends must not contact each other.
Maintain the joint spacing by placing a short
piece of clean, 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) diameter
bare steel wire between the extension and
1 2
30°
A
B
3
45° A
4 A
30°
B
D
60°
A B
A B C
10/12/94 D f310026a
A. Frame Rail Thickness
B. First Weld
C. Extension Thickness
D. Second weld penetrates the first weld.
Splayed Crossmember, 5
Midship
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the
parking brake. Shut down the engine and chock
the rear tires. 6
07/18/2001 f310874
2. Remove any clamps or tie straps that attach air
lines or wiring to the crossmember. 1. Driveshaft
2. Midship Crossmember
3. Using a floor jack, support the midship bearing 3. Midship Bracket Mounting Bolt
and driveshaft. See Fig. 1. 4. Midship Bracket
5. Midship Bearing Holder
6. Midship Bearing
5
Fig. 2, Midship Bracket Mounting
4
5. Remove the bolts that attach the crossmember
to the web of each frame rail. See Fig. 3.
6
NOTE: If threaded fasteners are used, save
them for later installation. If Huck® fasteners are
used, see Subject 160 for removal and installa-
7
tion information.
3 6. Support the driveshaft on a jack stand. Remove
the floor jack. See Fig. 4.
2
7. Using a rubber mallet, tap against the curved
1 portion of the crossmember on the closed-
channel side until it is no longer wedged be-
tween the frame rails.
07/23/2001 f310875
8. Remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
1. Midship Crossmember
2. Floor Jack Installation
3. Midship Bearing Holder
4. Driveshaft 1. Position the crossmember between the frame
5. Bracket Locknut rails with the open channel facing the same di-
6. Midship Bracket rection as it did before removal.
7. U-Joint Yoke
2. Tap the crossmember into place until the mount-
Fig. 1, Support the Driveline ing holes at both ends of the crossmember are
aligned with the holes in the frame rail.
5
2
2
1
07/23/2001 f310876
3. Install the web bolts, washers, and nuts fastening 07/18/2001 f310878
the crossmember to the frame rail. See Fig. 5. 1. Jack Stand 3. Midship
2. Driveshaft Crossmember
3.1 Install the fasteners in one end of the
crossmember and frame rail. Tighten the Fig. 4, Support the Driveshaft
locknuts finger-tight only.
3.2 Install the fasteners on the other end of Double Splayed Crossmember,
the crossmember and frame rail. Axle
3.3 Tighten all of the 5/8–11 locknuts 128
lbf·ft (173 N·m). Removal
4. Install the midship bracket. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the
parking brake. Shut down the engine and chock
4.1 Adjust the height of the jack stand holding
the front tires.
the driveline, as necessary to line up the
bolt holes in the midship bracket with 2. Jack up the vehicle.
those in the crossmember.
2.1 Place a jack stand under each frame rail.
4.2 Install the midship bracket fasteners, as
removed. 2.2 Using a floor jack, jack up the axle until
the frame rails are high enough to sus-
4.3 Tighten all of the 5/8–11 hexnuts 128 lbf·ft pend the wheels. See Fig. 6.
(173 N·m).
2.3 Raise the jack stands until the frame rails
5. Install any clamps or tie straps that attach air are resting on the jack stands. See
lines or wiring to the crossmember. Fig. 7.
6. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
4 6
3
2
2
1
1
07/19/2001 f310881
1. Frame Rail 4. Midship Bracket
2. Crossmember 5. Web Bolt, 5/8–11
3. Driveshaft 6. Midship Bearing
07/18/2001 f310879
Fig. 5, Crossmember Installation Make sure the lip of the jack stand is clear of the frame
rail.
1. Jack Stand 2. Frame Rail
Fig. 6, Jack Up the Axle NOTE: If threaded fasteners are used, save
them for later installation. If Huck® fasteners are
Five-Piece Bolted
Crossmember
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
07/23/2001 f350409
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
front and rear tires.
Center the jack on the axle.
2. If any air brake valve is attached to the cross-
Fig. 8, Center the Frame Rails member, drain the air reservoirs, then remove
used, see Subject 160 for removal and installa- the valve(s) from the crossmember.
tion information. Remove any clamps that attach air lines or wir-
7. Using a rubber mallet, tap against the curved ing to the crossmember, and secure the lines or
portion of one crossmember until the crossmem- wiring away from the crossmember.
bers are no longer wedged between the frame 3. If rear suspension brackets are attached to the
rails. Separate the crossmembers and remove frame rails with the same fasteners that attach
them from the vehicle. the crossmember, use safety stands to support
the rear of the frame at the normal ride height.
Installation 4. Remove the fasteners that attach the gussets to
1. Position the two crossmembers between the the crossmember. See Fig. 14.
frame rails, as removed. Tap the crossmember
into place until the mounting holes at both ends 5. Remove the fasteners that attach the gussets to
of the crossmember are aligned with the holes in the frame rail.
the frame rail. 6. Using a rubber mallet, tap against the cross-
2. Install the fasteners holding the two crossmem- member until it is no longer wedged against the
bers together. Tighten the locknuts finger-tight frame rails.
only. See Fig. 12. 7. Remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
3. Install the hanger bolts, washers and locknuts
attaching the hanger bracket and the two cross- Installation
members to the frame rail. Tighten the locknuts 1. Attach one upper gusset to the crossmember
finger-tight only. See Fig. 13. channel. Tighten the fasteners snugly, but not to
their final torque value.
1
3
07/19/2001 f350411
7
3
4 5
5
1 2 2 6
4
3
2 8
1
1 2 2 6
07/19/2001 f320911
07/19/2001 f310880
1. Hardened Washer 5. Hanger Bracket 1. Bolt, 1/2–13
2. Hanger Bolt (head 6. Frame Rail 2. Washer
end) 7. Double Splayed 3. Frame Rail
3. Hanger Bolt Crossmember 4. Forward Crossmember
(threaded end) 8. Leaf Spring 5. Aft Crossmember
4. Locknut, 5/8–11 6. Locknut, 1/2–13
Fig. 10, Remove the Hanger Bolts Fig. 12, Install the Double Crossmembers
1
2
Overslung Crossmember
Removal
A IMPORTANT: An underslung crossmember is
B
used in a few, limited applications. To remove
an underslung crossmember, use the same pro-
3
cedures as for an overslung crossmember.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
front tires.
10. Remove the chocks from the front and rear tires.
2
3
4
3
1
4
4
5
6
4
5 1
8 4
5 9
4 4
7
08/05/94 f310243a
1. Upper Gusset 4. Hardened Steel Flatwasher 7. 5/8–11 Locknut
2. 1/2–13 Button-Head Capscrew 5. 1/2–13 Locknut 8. Lower Gusset
3. 1/2–13 Grade 8 Hexbolt 6. Crossmember Channel 9. 5/8–11 Grade 8 Hexbolt
7 6
11/27/2001 5 f310892
1. Right Mounting Bracket
2. Overslung Crossmember
3. Right Frame Rail
4. Left Mounting Bracket
5. Mounting Bolt, 5/8-inch
6. Hexnut and Washer, 5/8-inch
7. Left Frame Rail
2
3
1
2
3
3
4
4
2 3
3 5
4
3
08/08/94 f310245a
Frame Rail Alignment 2. Locate an aft set of points. The aft points also
must be at identical locations on both frame rails.
Frame rail alignment is checked by measuring the 2.1 Measuring back along each frame rail,
distances from two sets of points on the upper find a set of bolt holes at least six feet
flanges of the frame rails. The aft set of points must (1.8 m) aft of the forward set of points.
be as far back as possible from the forward set of The bolt holes must be at exactly the
points. There must be no obstruction along or be- same location in each frame rail.
tween the frame rails that would prevent measuring
from any one of the four points to the other three IMPORTANT: If, because of obstructions, the
points. distance must be less than six feet (1.8 m),
the distance must be the maximum that is
There are no marks or bolt holes in the top flanges possible.
of the frame rails. Therefore, the points must be pro-
jected from the frame station marks and from the bolt 2.2 Project the exact vertical centerline of
holes on the frame rail webs. each bolt hole, and mark a line across
the top flange of its respective frame rail.
IMPORTANT: Use a pencil or soapstone to
make all lines, points, or other marks. Do not 2.3 Along each line, measure and mark a
point two inches (5 cm) inboard from the
use any marker or tool that will scratch the sur- outside face of its respective frame rail.
face of the frame rail. Use a machinist’s square This will be the aft set of points.
to project all points from the webs to the upper
flanges, and to measure inboard from the out- 3. Measure the width of the frame, from the outside
side face of the frame rails. face of each frame rail. At both locations, this
distance must be 33-5/8 inches (854 mm). See
1. Locate a forward set of points. The forward Fig. 1.
points must be at identical locations on both
frame rails. 3.1 At the forward set of points, measure the
width of the frame. Measure from the out-
1.1 Mark the most forward point at which the side face of one frame rail to the outside
upper flanges of both frame rails are clear face of the other. Record this measure-
and unobstructed. ment.
1.2 On each frame rail, find a bolt hole on the 3.2 At the aft set of points, measure the width
frame rail web, that is aligned with, or just of the frame again, from the outside face
rearward of, this forward point. The bolt of one frame rail to the outside face of
holes must be at exactly the same loca- the other. Compare this measurement to
tion in each frame rail. the one taken at the forward set of points.
1.3 Project the exact vertical centerline of 4. Check the alignment of the frame rails. See
each bolt hole, and mark a line across Fig. 1.
the top flange of its respective frame rail.
4.1 Measure the distance from the forward
1.4 Find the exact center of the width of each point on one frame rail to the aft point on
upper flange, and mark the point on each the opposite frame rail. Record this mea-
projected line. This will be the forward set surement.
of points.
4.2 Then measure the distance from the
IMPORTANT: Use a pencil or soapstone to other forward point to the aft point on its
make all lines, points, or other marks. Do not opposite frame rail. Record this measure-
use any marker or tool that will scratch the sur- ment.
face of the frame rail. Use a machinist’s square 4.3 Compare the two measurements.
to project all points from the webs to the upper
flanges, and to measure inboard from the out- 4.4 If the values differ by more than 1/8 inch
side face of the frame rails. (3 mm), proceed to the next step.
A 1 B
33−5/8" 33−5/8"
(854 mm) (854 mm)
11/28/95 C 2 D f310509
A. Right Forward Point or Bolt Hole C. Left Forward Point or Bolt Hole
B. Right Rear Point or Hole D. Left Rear Point or Hole
1. Right Frame Rail 2. Left Frame Rail
Frame Shaping
IMPORTANT: Obtain approval from your re-
gional service representative before doing any
cutting or frame shaping.
1
If the flange of a frame rail is cut (for relief cuts or
notches), shape the edges of the flange to form a
smooth-ground edge radius of 0.06 to 0.12 inch (1.5
to 3.0 mm) over the entire length of the cut. Fig-
ure 1 shows this dimension of the edge radius.
WARNING
Wear protective eye and face gear when grinding. 10/12/94 f310023a
CAUTION
Apply light pressure only. Heavy pressure can
result in harmful overheating and a loss of sur-
face temper. Grind only in the direction of the
cut. See Fig. 2. Grinding across the direction of
the cut can reduce the structural strength of the
frame rail.
1
A
2
3
08/22/95 f310024a
A. 0.06" to 0.12" (1.5 to 3 mm)
1. Edge Radius
2. Flange
3. Web
Replacement
Either Huck® fasteners or Grade 8 hexhead bolts and
Grade C prevailing torque locknuts are used for
frame attachments. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. For at-
tachments where clearance is minimal, low-profile
hexhead bolts and Grade C prevailing torque lock-
nuts are used. Prevailing torque locknuts of both bolt A
types have distorted sections of threads to provide
torque retention.
4
B
2 5
10/06/2000 f230082
When hexhead bolts and locknuts are used on an Fig. 2, Hexhead Fasteners
attached part, a hardened flatwasher is required to
prevent the bolt head or nut from embedding in the CAUTION
part. In general, hardened washers are used to dis-
tribute the load, and to prevent localized overstress- Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
ing of the frame rails, brackets, and other parts. They equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
are placed directly against the part, under the nut or parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
bolt head. These special hardened washers are used of the metals, resulting in damage to the frame or
on the frame rails and for the engine rear supports, parts.
rear and suspension brackets. They are cadmium- or
2. Apply Alumilastic® compound, or an equivalent,
zinc-plated, and have a hardness rating of 38 to 45
to all surfaces where steel and aluminum parts
HRC.
contact each other.
Hexhead Bolt Replacement 3. Never hammer or screw bolts into place. Align
the holes of the frame and the part being at-
1. Replace hexhead bolts with identical fasteners. tached to it, so that the nut and bolt surfaces are
See the Freightliner LLC Parts Book for fastener flush against the frame and the part.
specifications.
3.1 For bolts 4 inches (102 mm) or less in
length, make sure that at least 1-1/2
threads and no more than 5/8-inch (16- 4. Replace Huck fasteners with standard Grade 8
mm) bolt length extend through the self- threaded fasteners if the repair location does not
locking nut after it has been tightened. have the equipment to properly install replace-
ment Huck fasteners.
3.2 For bolts longer than 4 inches (102 mm),
allow a minimum of 3 threads and a
maximum of 3/4-inch (19-mm) bolt length.
Frame Fastener Tightening
08/15/95 f310081b
1. Anvil 3. Chisel
2. Spin Collar 4. Lock Pin
CAUTION
Never attempt to reuse any Huck fastener that
has been removed. Reusing any Huck frame fas-
tener can result in damage to the vehicle frame
or components attached to the frame.
1 2
30°
A
B
3
45° A
f310507
4 A
30°
B
D
Removal 1 2
5
6
8
4
7
3 09/13/2001 f880545
5 The right-hand side is shown; the left-hand side is
similar.
1. Hood
2. Hood Damper
2 6 3. Hood Pivot
4. Bumper
5. Bumper Locknut, 1/2–13
6. Washer
1 7. Lower Bumper Mounting Bolt, 1/2–13
8. Bumper Mounting Bracket
1 2
3
4
09/13/2001 f880546
The right-hand side is shown; the left-hand side is
similar.
1. Hood Pivot
2. Upper Bumper Mounting Bolt, 1/2–13
3. Bumper
4. Hood
5. Bumper End Cap
5
6
7
2
1 7
6
02/01/2002 f880547a
1. End Cap 5. End Cap Mounting Bolt, 3/8–16
2. Bumper Center Section 6. Washer
3. Reinforcement 7. Weld Nut on Center Reinforcement
4. Flange
5
9
6
2
3
6
4
5
3
7 2 1
01/22/2008 f311060
1. Round-Head Bolt 4. Bumper Mounting Bracket 7. Bumper End Piece
2. Hexnut 5. 3/8" Capscrew 8. Upper Bolt
3. Hardened Steel Flatwasher 6. Stainless Steel Flatwasher 9. Bumper Center Piece
5. Repeat the previous step for the other end piece. mounting bracket.
NOTE: Leave the upper bolts in place until you 3. Ensure that there is an even gap between the
are ready to remove the center piece. center piece and hood. The bumper mounting
brackets are designed to allow for angle adjust-
6. At one side of the center piece, remove the ments.
lower fasteners that attach the center piece to
the bumper mounting bracket. Then remove the 4. Install and hand tighten the fasteners that attach
upper hexnut and washer but not the upper bolt the end pieces to the center piece.
or its washer. 5. If the bolts that attach the center piece to the
7. Repeat the previous step at the opposite end of bumper mounting bracket are 1/2-inch, grade 5,
the center piece. zinc-plated, tighten them 64 lbf·ft (87 N·m).
General Information 2 A
Disassembly
WARNING
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top
plate or parts could malfunction. This could re-
sult in disengagement of the trailer during ve-
hicle travel, possibly causing personal injury and
property damage.
5
19 14
21
20 17
16 22
17 10
15 17
18 5
9
17
8
17
9 16
6 7 12
16 24 11
5 15
14 16 25
17 23
5 1
4 17
2 9
3 13 26
2
10/28/99 f310822
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 10. Bushing, 5/16-Inch 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8-Inch 11. Timer Spring 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 12. Jaw 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.75
4. Wedge Stop Rod 13. Bushing 22. Bumper
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1-Inch 14. Bracket Retainer Pin 23. Operating Handle
6. Bumper Spring 15. Bracket Pin 24. Wedge
7. Handle Spring 16. Grease Fitting 25. Hair Pin Cotter
8. Bushing, 7/16-Inch 17. Flatwasher, 1/2-Inch 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2.25
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13, Grade B 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.5
2 3 1 2
4 3
1 4
4 4
3
2
5
01/25/2002 f310849a 1
1. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.5
01/25/2002 f310851a
2. Locknut, 1/2–13
3. Secondary Lock 1. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2.25
4. Operating Handle 2. Flatwasher
3. Locknut, 1/2–13
Fig. 3, Secondary Lock Removal 4. Operating Handle
5. Pivot Mount
1
2
08/11/2000 f310852
1. Timer Spring 2. Timer
1
2
08/11/2000 f310847
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
Installation
WARNING
If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
sulting in personal injury or property damage due
to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.
5
19 14
21
20 17
16 22
17 10
15 17
18 5
9
17
8
17
9 16
6 7 12
16 24 11
5 15
14 16 25
17 23
5 1
4 17
2 9
3 13 26
2
10/28/99 f310822
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 10. Bushing, 5/16-Inch 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8-Inch 11. Timer Spring 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 12. Jaw 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.75
4. Wedge Stop Rod 13. Bushing 22. Bumper
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1-Inch 14. Bracket Retainer Pin 23. Operating Handle
6. Bumper Spring 15. Bracket Pin 24. Wedge
7. Handle Spring 16. Grease Fitting 25. Hair Pin Cotter
8. Bushing, 7/16-Inch 17. Flatwasher, 1/2-Inch 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2.25
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13, Grade B 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.5
1
2
4
3
2
5
1
08/11/2000 f310847 01/25/2002 f310851a
1. Jaw 2. Wedge 1. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2.25
2. Flatwasher
Fig. 2, Wedge and Jaw Installation 3. Locknut, 1/2–13
4. Operating Handle
1 5. Pivot Mount
2
Fig. 4, Operating Handle Installation
1 2 3
4
08/11/2000 f310852
1. Timer Spring 2. Timer
2 3
1
01/25/2002 f310849a
1. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1.5
2. Locknut, 1/2–13
3. Secondary Lock
4. Operating Handle
2 3
1 4
08/11/2000 f310848
1. Bumper Spring 3. Secondary Lock
2. Handle Spring 4. Pull Handle
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Difficult Coupling
Problem—Difficult Coupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch. Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged. Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Difficult Uncoupling
Problem—Difficult Uncoupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The tractor has drifted apart from the Back up the tractor and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
trailer, putting excess pressure on the lock protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
mechanism. release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Problem—Excessive Slack
Problem—Excessive Slack
Possible Cause Remedy
The wedge is improperly adjusted. Open the fifth wheel and insert a 2-inch kingpin or a shaft with a 2-inch
diameter. Trip the lock and adjust the wedge stop rod so that it is 1/4-inch
from the end of the wedge.
The kingpin is undersized. Replace the kingpin if it is worn greater than 1/8-inch (3-mm) at the 2-inch (5-
cm) diameter.
The jaw and wedge are worn. Replace the jaw and wedge.
General Information kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 2 for an
illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
Fontaine 6000 and 7000 series fifth wheels couple to tition.
trailers having the standard 2 inch kingpin. When in-
stalled as a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is
bracket-mounted to the tractor frame in a position
that best distributes the trailer load over the tractor
axles. Sliding fifth wheels are mounted on the Fon-
taine AWB or MWS model slide mounts.
The Fontaine fifth wheel lock mechanism for the
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and
sliding wedge. Kingpin release is accomplished by
pulling a manual lock control handle located on either
the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the
fifth wheel. Kingpin coupling occurs when the kingpin 1 2
enters the throat of the fifth wheel, triggers the jaw
and wedge to slide into place behind the kingpin, and
moves the lock control handle into the locked posi- 11/18/2002 f310932
tion.
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
As the kingpin enters the lock mechanism, the jaw is
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in Fig. 2, Unlocked Position
place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 1 for an illustration of
the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
2 1
11/18/2002 f310931
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
Fifth Wheel Removal and result in disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor, leading to personal injury or property
Disassembly damage.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000 goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel.
5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series Fifth Wheel (left side release shown)
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to
WARNING parts ejecting with force.
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the
building must be done only by a qualified me- sliding mount by removing the cotter pins from
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could the retaining pins. Remove the retaining pins and
bushing pins from both sides of the top plate.
2 3
1
11/12/2002 f310921
1. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock
11/12/2002 f310920
1. Bumper Spring
2. Secondary Lock Spring
3. Pull Handle Cotter Pin
7. Unbolt the operating handle from the pivot mount Fig. 4, Bumper
and remove. Discard the locknut. See Fig. 5.
8. Remove the timer spring and timer. See Fig. 6.
9. Remove the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 7.
1 1
11/12/2002 f310924
1. Timer Spring
2. Timer
Assembly and Installation 6. Install the pull handle. See Fig. 7. Use the exist-
ing washer and cotter pin (inspect for wear be-
fore using and replace if necessary). Attach the
WARNING new secondary lock/bumper spring that is sup-
plied in the repair kit. Open and close the fifth
Before rebuilding the assembly, check to make wheel to ensure that it works properly. The fifth
sure that there are no cracks in the crossmem- wheel must be properly lubricated before open-
bers or other components. Also check the ing and closing the wheel.
bracket pin holes to ensure they are not worn
oversize (pins should fit snugly). Under no cir- Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil
cumstances should a fifth wheel be repaired or grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying
used if any component (crossmember, saddle lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly
bearing, etc.) is cracked. Operating a fifth wheel oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel.
with damaged components could result in disen-
gagement of the trailer from the tractor, leading 7. Close the fifth wheel several times with a stan-
to personal injury or property damage. dard 2-inch kingpin tool. With the lock closed,
adjust the wedge stop rod so that the end is 1/4
Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil inch (6 mm) from the wedge. See Fig. 8.
grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying 8. Using an overhead hoist, position the fifth wheel
lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel. ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000 long cotter pins.
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel.
1. Always assemble parts around a 2-inch kingpin
or a 2-inch-diameter shaft. Insert the jaw first,
then the wedge below it. See Fig. 2. Grease the
jaw and wedge on the top and bottom.
2. Install the timer and the timer spring. See Fig. 3.
3. Install the operating handle and bolt to the pivot
mount. See Fig. 4. Use the existing bolt, washer,
hairpin cotter pin and bushing. Inspect the bush-
ing for wear before using it and replace it if nec-
essary. Use the new locknut that is supplied in
the repair kit. Note the orientation of the bolt
(Fig. 1).
4. Install the bumper and bolt it to the operating
handle. See Fig. 5. Use the existing bolt and
washers (inspect for wear before using and re-
place if necessary). Use the new locknut and
bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt (Fig. 1). After installing the
bumper, check to make sure that it can pivot
freely.
5. Insert the secondary lock and bolt it to the oper-
ating handle. See Fig. 6. Use the existing bolt
and washers (inspect for wear before using and
replace if necessary). Use the new locknut and
bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt (Fig. 1).
5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series (left-side release shown)
1 1
1
1
2
1 2
2
11/12/2002 f310926
A. 1/4 inch (6 mm)
1. Stop Rod
2. Wedge
11/12/2002 f310921
Fig. 8, Wedge Stop Rod Adjustment
1. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock
2 3
1
11/12/2002 f310920
1. Bumper Spring
2. Secondary Lock Spring
3. Pull Handle Cotter Pin
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Possible Cause Remedy
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Possible Cause Remedy
Undersized kingpin Replace the kingpin if worn greater than 1/8 inch (3 mm) at the 2-inch (5-cm)
diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge Jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.
General Information
Fontaine H5092 series fifth wheels couple to trailers
having the standard 2-inch kingpin. When installed
as a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is bracket-
mounted to the tractor frame in a position that best
distributes the trailer load over the tractor axles. Slid-
ing fifth wheels (Fig. 1), are mounted on the Fon-
taine HAWB or HMWS (previously called 5AWB and
5MWS) model slide mounts.
The Fontaine fifth wheel lock mechanism for the
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and
sliding wedge. Kingpin release is accomplished by
pulling a manual lock control handle located on either
the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the
fifth wheel. Kingpin coupling occurs when the kingpin
enters the throat of the fifth wheel, triggers the jaw
and wedge to slide into place behind the kingpin, and
moves the lock control handle into the locked posi-
tion.
As the kingpin enters the lock mechanism, the jaw is
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in
place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 2 for an illustration of
the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
Placing the lock control handle in the unlocked posi-
tion moves the wedge and jaw out from behind the
kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 3 for an
illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
tition.
09/06/95 f310477
1 1
2 2
Fifth Wheel Removal and result in disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor, leading to personal injury or property
Disassembly damage.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of the Fontaine® goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
H5092 fifth wheel.
13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
WARNING
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top
plate or parts could malfunction. This could re-
sult in disengagement of the trailer during ve-
hicle travel, possibly causing personal injury and
property damage.
4. Set the fifth wheel in a locked position, then un-
hook the bumper spring from the bumper tang
and the tab on the side of the fifth wheel sub- 09/13/95 f310481
structure. See Fig. 2. Remove the bumper
spring. Fig. 3, Bolt Removal
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Positioning
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Removal
09/14/95 f310484
1. Timer 09/14/95 f310486
10. Slide the bumper toward the operating handle Fig. 8, Bumper Removal
slot and to the rear of the fifth wheel until the 11. Remove the cotter pins from the jaw and wedge
bumper tang clears the operating handle slot. Lift springs. Discard the cotter pins, and pry the
upward and remove. See Fig. 8. small hooked tail of the jaw and wedge spring up
over the jaw and wedge studs. Remove and dis-
WARNING card both springs. See Fig. 9.
12. Remove the wedge first, and then the jaw. Dis-
The wedge spring is under extreme tension. Al-
card the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 10.
ways wear safety glasses. Do not stand directly
over the springs. A flying spring could cause per-
sonal injury.
09/13/95 f310487
09/13/95 f310488
Assembly and Installation from the tractor, leading to personal injury and
property damage.
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
H5092 fifth wheel. goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Cotter Pin, 3/16" x 1" 11. Thread-Cutting Screw, 1/4–20 x 20. Bumper
2. Lower Bracket Retainer Pin 3/8" 21. Flatwasher
3. Grease Fitting 12. Step Jaw and Wedge 22. Bushing, 5/16", Bumper Pivot
4. Lower Bracket Pin 13. Jaw Spring 23. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13
5. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Cotter Pin, 1/4" x 3" 24. Bushing, 7/16", Handle Pivot
6. Flatwasher 15. Timer 25. Operating Handle, Side Release
7. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 16. Wedge Spring Only
8. Nut, Wedge Stop Rod 17. Pull Handle 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
9. Upper Assembly, Side Release 18. Bumper Handle Spring Handle Pivot
10. Leaf Spring 19. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
Bumper Pivot
09/13/95 f310487
09/13/95 f310488
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Positioning
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Installation
09/13/95 f310482
09/14/95 f310484
Fig. 8, Pull Handle Installation
1. Timer
Apply grease to the bolt parts and where there is
Fig. 6, Timer Installation metal to metal contact with the operating handle.
8. Slide the pull handle in through the safety lock See Fig. 9. Do not overtighten the bolts. Lubri-
and using the cotter pin and washer, fasten it in cate all pivot points.
the top hole of the operating handle. See Fig. 8. IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
9. Align the bumper hole with the hole in the oper- cated to operate correctly. Refer to Group 31 of
ating handle. Replace the bolts on the operating the Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual for
handle. The bolt which fastens the operating complete maintenance and lubrication instruc-
handle to the bumper must be inserted with the tions for the fifth wheel assembly.
threads facing toward you to prevent interference
with the jaw springs. The other bolt should be 10. Connect the bumper spring to its clasp. Apply
positioned with the threads facing downward. grease to the bracket pockets and to the grease
Each bolt has a nut, washer, and new bushings. fittings on the side of the fifth wheel until grease
WARNING
If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
sulting in personal injury or property damage due
to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.
11. Using an overhead hoist, position the fifth wheel
on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
long cotter pins.
09/13/95 f310481
09/14/95 f310480
1. Bumper Spring
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Possible Cause Remedy
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Problem—Slack
Possible Cause Remedy
Undersized kingpin Replace the kingpin if worn greater than 1/8 inch (3 mm) at the 2-inch (5-cm)
diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge Jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.
General Information
Freightliner Business Class M2 front suspensions
use either a tapered leaf or a flat leaf assembly. The
tapered leaf suspensions are available in varying ca-
pacities from 6,000-pound (2 722 kg) to 18,000-
pound (8 165 kg). Shock absorbers are standard.
The flat leaf suspensions are available in varying ca-
pacities from 14,600-pound (6 622 kg) to 18,000-
pound (8 165 kg), and shock absorbers are optional.
The spring assemblies are attached to the axle with
U-bolts, hardened washers, and high nuts. See
Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. The forward end of each spring
mounts to a stationary front spring bracket. The rear
of each spring mounts to either a spring shackle sus-
pended from a frame-mounted bracket, or fits straight
into the frame-mounted bracket, and is locked in
place by a carriage bolt. See Fig. 1. The shackle or
deflection pad allows for variations in spring length
as the spring flexes.
The leaf spring assembly absorbs and stores energy
over bumps, releasing it at a controlled rate to
smooth the ride. Individual spring leaves are held
together by a center bolt. Alignment clips limit the
sideways spread and vertical separation of the indi-
vidual leaves.
23
13
7
22
14
19, 20, 21
18
15
7
11 12 8
10 16
10 8 10
9
17
7
6
2
1
12/20/2001 f320943
1. U-Bolt High Nut 10. Flatwasher 17. Spring Center-Bolt and Nut
2. Bearing Washer 11. Hexnut, 3/4–10 18. Leaf Spring (leaf-and-a-half)
3. Axle 12. Shock Absorber 19. Carriage Bolt, 1/2–13
4. Dowel 13. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 20. Washer
5. Spacer 14. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting 21. Hexnut, 1/2–13
6. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 Bracket 22. Rear Spring Hanger
7. Flatwasher 15. U-Bolts 23. Left Frame Rail
8. Hexnut, 3/4–10 16. Axle Stop and Shock Absorber
9. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 Lower Mounting Bracket
27
26
28 29
20 18 31 9
30
9
24 16 35
12 32
25 32
16 23 6 34
9 18 33
17 31
19 22
19 18
14 21
15
18
13 20
12 5
8
11 7 4
6
11 9
10
3
2
1
12/19/2001 f320938
1. U-Bolt High Nut 14. Inboard Spring Spacer 25. Leaf Spring
2. Bearing Washer 15. Front Suspension Bracket 26. Shackle Bracket
3. Axle 16. Locknut, 3/4–10 27. Frame Rail
4. Dowel 17. Shock Absorber 28. Shackle Bracket Bushing
5. Spacer 18. Hardened Washer 29. Pinch Bolt, 1/2–13 x 4"
6. Outboard Spacing Washer(s) 19. Locknut, 3/4–10 30. Inboard Wear Plate
7. Outboard Spring Spacer 20. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 31. Shackle
8. Spring Pin, Forward Spring Eye 21. Spring Center-Bolt and Nut 32. Outboard Wear Plate
9. Hardened Washer, 1/2–13 22. Axle Stop and Shock Absorber 33. Hardened Washer, 2-1/4" o.d.
10. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 x 5" Lower Mounting Bracket 34. Spring Pin, Rear Spring Eye
11. Spring Pin Retainer 23. U-Bolt 35. Shackle Bracket Pin
12. Spring-Eye Bushing 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
13. Hardened Washer Bracket
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down
the engine, set the parking brakes, and chock
the rear tires.
2. Tilt the hood.
3. Remove the front bumper end cap. For instruc-
tions, see Group 31.
4. Remove the wheel and tire for access to the leaf
spring. For instructions, see Group 40.
IMPORTANT: Make sure the frame rails are
level and an equal distance off the ground.
5. Raise the front of the vehicle until both wheels
are off the ground and the frame is supported
with safety stands. The axle and leaf springs can
then be manipulated with the floor jack.
6. Support the frame and axle with safety stands.
WARNING
Use safety stands to securely support all axle
and frame weight during suspension repairs. Un- 03/11/96 f320260
secured components may drop when fasteners
are loosened or removed, causing component Fig. 1, Spring Shackle Lower Bolt Removal/Installation
damage and serious personal injury. (typical)
7. Remove the leaf spring assembly. If equipped with spring bolts: Remove the
bolt, nuts and washers from the forward
NOTE: Leaf spring assemblies on vehicles spring eye. See Fig. 2.
with suspensions manufactured at 14,600-
pound (6 622 kg) and 18,000-pound (8 165 If equipped with spring pins: Remove the
kg) weight ratings have multiple leaf springs, front spring pin by removing the fasteners
holding the spring pin retainers in place.
heavy duty brackets, U-bolts, and other Remove the spring pin.
components.
NOTE: If removing the driver’s side spring,
7.1 Remove the U-bolt high nuts and wash-
the steering must be at right full-lock so the
ers; then, remove the U-bolts.
bolt can clear the drag link.
7.2 If so equipped, remove the shock ab-
sorber lower mounting bolt. Swing the 7.5 Support the front axle with a jack. Re-
shock absorber out of the way. move the safety stand; then, lower the
front axle enough to allow removal of the
7.3 If so equipped, remove the spring shackle spring. Note the location of the spring
lower bolt. See Fig. 1. spacer and any caster adjustment shims.
If equipped with spring pins, remove the
lower pinch bolts from the spring shackle. WARNING
7.4 Remove the fasteners from forward The spring assembly is heavy. To prevent bodily
spring eye. injury, always use two people to remove it.
WARNING
Do not replace individual leaves of a leaf spring
assembly; replace the complete spring assembly.
Visible damage (cracks or breaks) to one leaf
causes hidden damage to other leaves. Replace-
ment of only the visibly damaged part(s) is no
assurance that the spring is safe. On front spring
assemblies, if cracks or breaks exist in the two
top leaves, a loss of vehicle control could occur.
Failure to replace a damaged spring assembly
could cause an accident resulting in serious per-
sonal injury or property damage.
2.3 If the protective coating is gone from
some areas of the spring, paint the
cleaned areas with a rust-inhibiting paint.
If rusting or corrosion is severe, replace
03/11/96 f320264 the spring assembly.
Fig. 2, Forward Spring Eye Bolt Removal/Installation
(typical) Installation
7.6 Remove the spring by sliding it toward IMPORTANT: For normal highway operation do
the front of the vehicle. See Fig. 3. not install springs of two different designs or
8. If so equipped, remove the shackle upper bolt load capacities on the front axle. In order to
and nut. Press out the bushing. Remove the fas- maintain a balanced front suspension system,
teners that hold the shackle bracket to the frame install identical spring assemblies.
and remove the bracket.
1. If the shackle bracket was removed, install it.
Tighten the mounting bolts 135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
Cleaning and Inspection NOTE: All suspension bracket (frame) fasteners
1. Using a wire brush and solvent or steam clean- require periodic retightening. Refer to Group 00
ing equipment, wash all parts to remove dirt, of the Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual
grease, and scale. for the recommended intervals.
IMPORTANT: When using a solvent, follow all of 2. If the spring shackle was removed, install it.
the solvent manufacturer’s warnings, cautions, Don’t tighten the upper bolt in the shackle at this
and instructions. time.
12/19/2001 f320944
CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
of the metals, resulting in damage to suspension
parts.
3.5 Place the dowel, caster adjustment shim,
and the spring spacer on the axle.
3.6 Place the axle stop/shock absorber lower
mounting bracket in position on the leaf
spring.
3.7 Using a jack, lift the axle into position.
3.8 Install the U-bolts over the shock ab-
sorber lower mounting bracket, the spring
leaves, spring spacer, caster adjustment
shims, and through the front axle.
3.9 Install the high nuts on the U-bolts and
tighten them as described in Specifica-
tions 400.
4. Attach the shock absorber to its lower mounting
bracket. Tighten the nut 140 lbf·ft (190 N·m).
5. Remove the floor jack and safety stands.
6. Install the wheel and tire. See Group 40 for in-
structions.
7. Install the front bumper end cap. See Group 31
for instructions.
8. Lower the hood, and remove the chocks from the
tires.
Shackle Bracket Bushing 9. Install the shackle bracket. Install the fasteners
and tighten them 135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
Replacement 10. Connect the leaf spring.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 10.1 Install the spring shackle and the shackle
the engine, set the parking brakes, and chock upper bolt.
the rear tires.
10.2 Adjust the height of the jack supporting
2. Tilt the hood. the frame until the bushing at the rear of
the leaf spring lines up with the hole for
3. Remove the front bumper end cap. For instruc-
the shackle lower bolt.
tions, see Group 31. Remove the wheel and tire
for access to the leaf spring. For instructions, 10.3 Install the shackle lower bolt. Tighten it
see Group 40. 240 lbf·ft (325 N·m).
4. Remove the shackle bracket from the vehicle. 11. Install the wheel and tire. For instructions, see
Group 40.
4.1 Jack up the frame until the shackle lower
bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt. 12. Install the front bumper end cap. For instructions,
see Group 31.
4.2 Remove the shackle upper bolt and the
spring shackle. 13. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.
4.3 Remove the shackle bracket from the
frame.
5. Using a press, remove the bushing from the
Spring Bushing Replacement
shackle bracket.
1. Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle. See
6. Inspect the shackle bracket and new bushing. Subject 100 for instructions.
6.1 With an inside micrometer or bore gauge, 2. Using a press, remove the worn or damaged
check whether the bracket bore is out-of- bushing.
round. Replace the bracket if the bushing
3. Using a press, insert the new bushing into the
bore is out-of-round.
spring eye until the bushing is flush with the
6.2 Before installing the new bushing, check edges of the spring eye.
the shackle bracket bolt for ease of fit in
the bushing. There should be an easy slip IMPORTANT: Do not press in the bushing by
fit without wobble between the bolt and the center sleeve. This could damage the bush-
the bushing. ing.
7. Using a press, insert the new bushing into the 4. Install the leaf spring. See Subject 100 for in-
bracket until the bushing is centered in the structions.
bracket.
IMPORTANT: Do not press in the bushing by
the center sleeve. This could damage the bush-
ing.
8. Check the shackle bracket bolt again for ease of
fit in the bushing. It should still fit easily without
wobble between the bolt and the bushing. If it
binds, the bushing may have been distorted dur-
ing installation. Replace the bushing and check
again for proper fit.
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brake, chock the rear tires,
and tilt the hood.
2. Remove the shock absorber.
2.1 Remove the locknut from the shock ab-
sorber upper mount; then, remove the
3/4–10 hexbolt and washers.
2.2 Remove the locknut from the shock ab-
sorber lower mount; then, remove the
3/4–10 hexbolt and washers.
2.3 Remove the shock absorber.
3. Install the new shock absorber. Tighten the lock-
nuts 140 lbf·ft (190 N·m).
4. Lower the hood, and remove the chocks from the
tires.
spacer adjustments will have minimal effect on 10. Figure 3 represents a checklist for weak or sag-
lean and other actions are required. If the end of ging springs.
frame to ground measurements are less than 3/8
Use this checklist as the information may be re-
inch (9.53 mm) difference, correct the lean by
increasing the low side front axle spacer thick- quested when filing a warranty claim.
ness by no more than 1/2 inch (13 mm). Use a
45, 55, or 65-mm spacer in place of the existing Parts Information
spacer. Part Description Part Number Quantity
See Table 1 for parts information. Axle Spacer, 45 mm 16-15105-040 As Required
9. Check the frame height again. If the difference Axle Spacer, 55 mm 16-15105-055 As Required
between measurements is still equal to or Axle Spacer, 65 mm 16-15105-065 As Required
greater than 3/8 inch (9.53 mm), swap springs
Table 1, Parts Information
from side to side and check the measurements
again.
If the chassis lean is still the same, the problem Troubleshooting Tables
is with the vehicle. If the lean has changed sides,
replace both springs.
Problem—Vehicle Wanders
Problem—Vehicle Wanders
Possible Cause Remedy
One or more spring leaves are broken. Replace the spring assembly.
The wheels are out of alignment. Adjust the wheel alignment using the instructions in Group 33 of this manual.
Caster is incorrect. Install correct caster shims. Refer to Group 33 of this manual for
specifications.
Steering gear is not centered. Adjust steering using the instructions in Group 46 of this manual.
Drive axles are out of alignment. Align the drive axles using the instructions in Group 35 of this manual.
Problem—Noisy Spring
Problem—Noisy Spring
Possible Cause Remedy
A loose U-bolt nut or center bolt is Inspect the components for damage. Replace damaged components as
allowing spring leaf slippage. necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the torque table in
Specifications, 400.
A loose, bent, or broken spring shackle or Inspect the shackles and brackets for damage. Replace damaged
front suspension bracket is impairing the components as necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the
spring flex. torque table in Specifications, 400.
Worn or damaged spring pins are allowing Replace any worn or damaged spring pins.
spring end-play.
Problem—Rough Ride
Problem—Rough Ride
Possible Cause Remedy
Refer to the applicable suspension section in this manual.
09/23/2009 f040801
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
General Information
The rear leaf-spring suspension for Business Class
M2 vehicles uses either 60-inch taper-leaf or 52-inch
multi-leaf springs with varying capacities. See Fig. 1,
Fig. 2, Fig. 3 or Fig. 4.
Taper-leaf springs have shackles and pins to secure
the rear spring end, while multi-leaf spring applica-
tions use a slip spring design in which the rear spring
end rides in a cast iron bracket mounted on the
frame rail.
The 52-inch multi-leaf spring suspension is available
with a rubber or leaf-spring helper. A rubber helper is
standard with the 60-inch taper-leaf spring suspen-
sion.
Both types of helper provide additional spring rate for
extra load-carrying capacity and increased roll stabil-
ity.
Both types of spring assemblies are attached to the
axle with U-bolt assemblies. Shock absorbers are
optional with the 52-inch multi-leaf suspension, and
are standard with the 60-inch taper-leaf suspension.
16
17, 18
20
19
11 21
15
13 5 14
12
10
8
7 6
9 8
5
4
3
2
12/17/2001 1 f320931
1. U-Bolt High Nut (4 qty.) 8. Flatwasher 15. Shock Absorber
2. Flatwashers 9. Leaf Spring Assembly 16. U-Bolt
3. U-Bolt Retainer 10. Forward Spring-Eye Bolt 17. Hexnut, 5/8–18
4. Lower Shock Absorber Bolt 11. Left Frame Rail 18. Flatwasher
5. Flatwasher 12. Forward Spring Hanger 19. Upper Shock Absorber Bracket
6. Axle Seat 13. U-Bolt Pad 20. Rear Spring Hanger
7. Hexnut, 3/4–10 14. Hexnut, 3/4–10 21. Wear Pad
18
19
20
19
17
21 19
22
10 14, 15, 16
19
13 22
12
11
9
8
6
6 5
7
3
08/29/2001
1 f320927
14
15
11 16
10
12 13
9
6
6 5 4
7
1
12/17/2001 f320928
1. U-Bolt High Nut (8 qty.) 7. Leaf Spring (with helper) 12. Spring Stop
2. Flatwashers 8. Forward Spring Hanger 13. U-Bolt Pad
3. U-Bolt Retainer 9. Forward Spring-Eye Bolt 14. U-Bolt Hexbolt
4. Axle Seat 10. Leaf Spring (no helper) 15. Rear Spring Hanger
5. Hexnut, 3/4–10 11. Left Frame Rail 16. Wear Pad
6. Flatwasher
11
18
15, 16, 17 19
10
20
14 21, 22, 23
24
28 29
13 30
9 25, 26, 27
12
8
6
31
32
6 5 4 33
7
3
2
12/17/2001 1 f320929
Fig. 4, 52-Inch Multi-Leaf Spring Suspension (with optional rubber helper and stabilizer bar)
Replacement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brakes, and chock
the tires.
2. Remove the locknut, retainers, and bushings (if
applicable) from the shock absorber lower
mount.
3. Remove the fasteners from the shock absorber
upper mount.
4. Remove the shock absorber.
5. Install the replacement shock absorber.
6. Install the capscrew and locknut in the upper
mount. Hand-tighten them at this time.
7. Install the replacement bushings, retainers, and
locknut.
WARNING
Use only the retainers included with the replace-
ment shock absorber. Do not use washers. They
can be pushed over the nut and be ejected vio-
lently, possibly causing personal injury and prop-
erty damage.
8. Tighten the shock absorber upper mounting lock-
nut until the rubber bushings expand to the same
size as the retainer washer.
9. Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting fas-
teners to 240 lbf·ft (325 N·m).
10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Replacement
NOTE: Wear pads, used only on 52-inch multi-
leaf suspensions, can be replaced without re-
moving the leaf spring assemblies. They are
located on the rear spring hangers.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brakes, and chock
the front tires.
2. Using a floor jack or a crane, take the weight off
the frame rail so there is no contact between the
spring and the wear pad.
3. Using a suitable pair of pliers, pinch the tabs of
the wear pad together and push them out of the
slot in the upper part of the rear spring hanger.
Remove and discard the wear pad.
4. Install the new wear pad so that the thicker por-
tion of the pad is toward the axle. Pinch the tabs
together so they fit through the slot in the spring
hanger. Push the wear pad up into place.
5. Lower the frame rail.
6. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Torque Values
Torque
Description Size Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
Forward Spring Bolt * 3/4–10 — 240 (325)
Rear Spring Shackle Bolts * 3/4–10 — 240 (325)
Stage 1: Hand tighten
5/8–18 Stage 2: 60 (81)
C
(10 to 16,000-lb. ratings) Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 180 to 230 (245 to 313)
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts †
Stage 1: Hand tighten
7/8–14 Stage 2: 60 (81)
C
(18 to 23,000 lb.-ratings) Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (570 to 678)
Helper Bracket Hexbolts 1/2–13 — 68 (92)
Shock Absorber Lower Locknuts ‡ — C 240 (325)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts, and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
† Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 1.
‡ See Subject 110 for shock absorber upper locknut tightening instructions.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
General Information
The tandem-axle rear spring suspension uses a six-
point equalizing leaf spring design, which compen-
sates for axle articulation, from side-to-side, and
front-to-rear. See Fig. 1. Four semi-elliptical spring
assemblies are attached to the axles with U-bolts.
On both sides of the vehicle, the forward end of the
forward spring and the rear end of the rear spring
ride in aluminum brackets that are mounted on the
frame rails. Steel wear shoes are cast into each
bracket.
At the center, between the forward and rear springs,
the springs ride on an equalizer, which pivots on a
sleeve in the equalizer bracket. Equalizer travel is
stopped when the top of the equalizer and the equal-
izer bracket make contact. Each axle is held in align-
ment by a pair of radius rods that extend forward
from the axle seats to the forward spring brackets for
the forward-rear axle, and to the equalizer brackets
for the rearmost axle.
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
NOTE: Huck fasteners may be used to attach brackets to frame rails.
1. Suspension Bracket Hexbolt 12. Spring Liner
2. Hardened Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
3. Forward Spring Bracket 14. Spring Seat
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 15. U-Bolt Retainer
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 16. Hardened Washer
6. Hardened Washer 17. U-Bolt High Nut
7. Axle Alignment Washer 18. Equalizer Bracket
8. Forward Radius Rod 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem drive axles)
9. Radius Rod Hexbolt 20. Rear Radius Rod
10. U-Bolt 21. Rear Spring Bracket
11. U-Bolt Pad 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or pusher axle)
Removal Installation
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure. IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact alumi-
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the num brackets, apply Alumilastic® compound, or
tires. an equivalent, on the mating surfaces.
12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
A B
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
C D
04/11/95 f320002a
CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
contact each other, could lead to corrosion of the
metals, resulting in suspension damage.
9. Install the wheel assemblies, using the instruc-
tions found in Group 40. Remove the safety
stands from under the frame and axle, and lower
the vehicle.
10. If the radius rods have been loosened, or the
equalizer bracket has been removed, check the
rear axle alignment. For instructions, refer to
Group 35. If necessary, adjust the axle align-
ment using the instructions in Subject 140.
11. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
NOTE: Huck fasteners may be used to attach brackets to frame rails.
1. Suspension Bracket Hexbolt 12. Spring Liner
2. Hardened Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
3. Forward Spring Bracket 14. Spring Seat
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 15. U-Bolt Retainer
5. Torque Arm Hex Locknut 16. Hardened Washer
6. Hardened Washer 17. U-Bolt High Nut
7. Axle Alignment Washer 18. Equalizer Bracket
8. Forward Torque Arm 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem drive axles)
9. Torque Arm Hexbolt 20. Rear Torque Arm
10. U-Bolt 21. Rear Spring Bracket
11. U-Bolt Pad 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or pusher axle)
CAUTION CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
of the metals, resulting in damage to the suspen- rail.
sion. IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the periodic torquing. For suspension component
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
front tires. vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the Busi-
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the axles ness Class M2 Maintenance Manual.
with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame so 8. When replacing the forward spring bracket or
that all weight is removed from the leaf springs. equalizer bracket, install any previously removed
Block the frame with safety stands. Make sure axle alignment washers between the forward ra-
the stands will securely support the weight of the dius rod front pin and the forward spring bracket,
axles and frame. or between the rear radius rod front pin and the
3. If removing the forward spring bracket or the equalizer bracket, as applicable. See Fig. 3.
equalizer bracket, note the number of any axle Install bolts with hardened washers in the radius
alignment washers. Remove the fasteners that rod front pin, and the forward spring bracket or
attach the radius rod to the forward spring equalizer bracket. Install the hardened washers
bracket or equalizer bracket. Remove any axle and locknuts, and tighten the locknuts to the
alignment washers. torque value in Specifications 400.
4. If removing an equalizer bracket, remove the 9. If replacing an equalizer bracket, install the
equalizer. For instructions, see Subject 110. equalizer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
5. Remove the fasteners that attach the forward or 10. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
rear spring bracket, or equalizer bracket, to the and axle, and lower the vehicle.
frame rail. Remove the bracket.
11. Remove the chocks from the tires.
6. Place the new spring bracket or equalizer
bracket on the frame rail. Align the mounting
holes, and install the fasteners.
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
NOTE: Huck fasteners may be used to attach brackets to frame rails.
1. Suspension Bracket Hexbolt 12. Spring Liner
2. Hardened Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
3. Forward Spring Bracket 14. Spring Seat
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 15. U-Bolt Retainer
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 16. Hardened Washer
6. Hardened Washer 17. U-Bolt High Nut
7. Axle Alignment Washer 18. Equalizer Bracket
8. Forward Radius Rod 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem drive axles)
9. Radius Rod Hexbolt 20. Rear Radius Rod
10. U-Bolt 21. Rear Spring Bracket
11. U-Bolt Pad 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or pusher axle)
1
2
A B
C
05/09/95 f320004a
12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
A B
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
C D
04/11/95 f320002a
A C
3 5
1 2 4
C A
B
05/12/95 f320411
A. Leading End B. Possible Adjustment Points C. Trailing End
1. Front Axle 4. Rearmost Axle Radius Rod
2. Forward-Rear Axle Radius Rod 5. Rearmost Axle
3. Forward-Rear Axle
from between the radius rod and the forward- distance that the leading end of the rearmost
rear axle seat on the trailing end. axle will have to be adjusted rearward, or that
the trailing end will have to be adjusted forward,
NOTE: Whenever possible, alignment washers to align it at a right angle to the frame, and to
should be removed instead of added. align it parallel to the forward-rear axle. See
5. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight Fig. 1.
from the springs. Place safety stands under the 13. On both sides of the rearmost axle, loosen the
frame. Make sure the stands will securely sup- axle U-bolts enough to allow the springs to shift
port the weight of the frame. on the axle seats.
6. Rolling the wheels, move the loosened end of 14. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted,
the axle forward or backward as needed. remove the fasteners that attach the rear radius
7. Insert or remove axle alignment washers at the rod to the equalizer bracket. Remove any axle
appropriate location (front or rear of the left-hand alignment washers.
or right-hand radius rod) to bring the forward-rear 15. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight
axle into alignment. Install the hexhead bolt, from the springs. Place safety stands under the
hardened washers, and locknut in the radius rod frame. Make sure the stands will securely sup-
pin and forward spring bracket or axle seat. port the weight of the frame.
8. Place an equal thickness of washers on the 16. Move the loosened end of the axle forward or
other end of the radius rod pin, and install the backward, by rolling the wheels. Move the axle
fasteners. just enough to provide space to allow installation
9. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque of alignment washers between the equalizer
value in Specifications 400. bracket and the radius rod pin.
10. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle. 17. Between one end of the radius rod pin and the
equalizer bracket, insert the additional thickness
11. Check the forward-rear axle alignment with the of alignment washers needed to make up for the
straightedge and the tape measure. If alignment difference in center-point bar measurements.
is within specifications, center the spring in the
forward spring bracket, if needed. Tighten the For example, if one end of the axle was
axle U-bolt nuts to the torque value in Specifica- equipped with a 3/16-inch (4.5-mm) thickness of
tions 400. washers, and the difference in the center-point
bar measurements is 1/4 inch (6 mm) less on
If not in alignment, repeat all of the steps above. that side, add an additional 1/4 inch (6 mm) of
washers (for a total of 7/16 inch [10.5 mm]) to
CAUTION correct the alignment.
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas- Or, if one end of the axle was equipped with a
teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam- 1/4-inch (6-mm) thickness of washers, and the
age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame difference in center-point bar measurements is
rail. 3/16 inch (4.5 mm) more on that side, install a
1/16-inch (1.6-mm) thickness of washers in place
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require of the 1/4-inch (6-mm) thickness.
periodic torquing. For suspension component
inspecting and fastener torque checking inter- 18. Install the bolt, hardened washers, and locknut in
the equalizer bracket and the radius rod pin.
vals and instructions, see Group 32 in the Place an equal thickness of alignment washers
Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual. on the other end of the radius rod pin, and install
12. Using a center-point bar, determine the differ- the fasteners at that end.
ence between the forward-rear and the rearmost 19. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque
axles’ center-to-center measurements on each value in Specifications 400.
side of the vehicle. For instructions, see
Group 35. This difference is the approximate 20. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
CAUTION
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
age to the springs, spring brackets and frame
rail.
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
periodic torquing. For suspension component
inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the
Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual.
Torque Values
Description Size IFI Grade Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Equalizer Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Forward Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 ( 325)
Rear Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 5/8–11 C 135 (180)
Stage 1: Hand-Tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts (Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown
7/8–14 C Stage 3: 200 (271)
in Fig. 1.)
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (571 to
680)
Radius Rod Locknut * 5/8–18 C 135 (184)
Equalizer Cap and Tube Assembly Locknut * 3/4–16 C 270 (365)
Equalizer Wear Shoe Capscrew 5/8–11 8 135 (184)
Side-Restraint Sleeve Locknut 1/2–13 C 68 (93)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
General Description
There are two terms used to describe rough ride
conditions: harmonic and harsh. Harmonic ride prob-
lems are those in which the once-per-revolution en-
ergy input from such things as bent or imbalanced
wheels match the natural frequency of the frame flex-
ing. This produces a fore-and-aft motion in the cab,
which continues as long as the critical road speed is
maintained. Harmonic ride problems can occur on
smooth roads.
Harsh ride problems are those in which the suspen-
sion transfers, rather than absorbs, the momentary
energy inputs produced when the tires hit bumps or
holes in the road. Wavy asphalt, or a series of
bumps, may cause repetition of the harsh, jarring
motion in the cab, but the motion stops after the tires
pass over the bumps. Harsh ride problems occur on
rough roads.
This section is designed for use as an aid in locating
and correcting rough ride problems. It is not intended
for use as a replacement for the detailed service in-
formation located in the applicable subjects in this
manual, or in the component manufacturer’s service
manuals.
NOTE: When test driving the vehicle, duplicate 3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the
as closely as possible the conditions under
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety
which the problem occurs. Note the area of the stands. Perform the corrections under "Harsh
vehicle where the problem seems to be coming Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
from. Pay special attention to this area during ing, 300.
the service operations.
4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
WARNING corrections under "Harsh Ride, Tires On the
Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Use safety stands to securely support all of the
wheel and frame weight during suspension re- 5. If the problem persists, perform the harmonic
pairs. Unsecured components may drop when ride checks in this subject. Occasionally, ride
the fasteners are loosened or removed, causing problems associated with rough roads are har-
serious personal injury and component damage. monic ride problems masked by the road condi-
tions.
3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety
stands. Perform the corrections under "Harmonic
Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
ing, 300.
4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
corrections under "Harmonic Ride, Tires On the
Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires Off the Ground
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires Off the Ground
Possible Cause Remedy
Bent, distorted, or out-of-round wheels or Inspect and repair the assemblies using the instructions in Group 40.
rims are causing a rough ride.
Bent, distorted, or out-of-round brake Replace damaged components using the instructions in Group 33 or
drums or hubs are causing a rough ride. Group 35.
An improperly seated tire-to-rim bead is Inspect the tires and rims for proper bead seating. Correct the problem using
causing an out-of-round assembly. the instructions in Group 40.
A tire and rim assembly on spoke wheels Remove and install the tire and rim assembly using the instructions in
is improperly installed, causing an out-of- Group 40.
round assembly.
Worn or distorted rim spacers are causing Replace damaged spacers using the instructions in Group 40.
an out-of-round assembly.
The wheels, brake drums, or hub Inspect the components for missing balance weights. Balance, as necessary.
assemblies are out of balance.
Radial force variations in the tires are Exchange the tires and wheels with a set that is known to cause no ride
causing a rough ride. problems. If this corrects the problem, discard the old tires. For instructions,
see Group 40.
General Information 2
1 2
3
11/05/97 f320562
1. Valve Mounting Bracket
2. Height-Control Valve
3. Stud Bolt
4. Vertical Linkage Rod
5. Axle
General Guidelines
To keep the air suspension system operating reliably,
the air system must be kept free of any oil, moisture,
or foreign material. Inspect and maintain the air sys-
tem components regularly. Refer to Group 42 of the
Business Class® M2 Maintenance Manual for mainte-
nance operations.
CAUTION
Failure to take precautions against the entry of
moisture, oil, or other foreign material into the air
suspension system could eventually lead to
sludge forming in the air system. Sludge could
adversely affect the operation of the air suspen-
sion system and other air system components.
Use only SAE grade 8 hexbolts and grade G prevail-
ing torque locknuts to attach spring hangers and
brackets to the frame.
For suspension component inspecting, lubricating,
and fastener torque checking intervals and instruc-
tions, refer to the maintenance schedule in Group 00
and the suspension section in Group 32 of the Busi-
ness Class® M2 Maintenance Manual.
the top of the U-bolt or U-bolt pad is the target If the distance is not within the acceptable range,
measurement from the applicable Suspension repeat the adjustment procedure.
Ride Height Measurement table.
7. Center the horizontal control lever on the valve
by inserting a 5/32-inch (4-mm) pin or drill bit into
the neutral-position hole in the height-control
valve and the horizontal control lever.
8. While holding the height-control valve mounting
studs in place with an Allen wrench, tighten the
nuts 95 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not overtighten.
9. Remove the pin or drill bit previously inserted in
the height-control valve. A
10. Drive the vehicle unloaded for about 1/4 mile
(1/2 km), then stop the vehicle in the exact loca-
tion (as previously marked) of the original mea-
surement.
Park the vehicle using a light brake application.
Chock the tires on one axle only, and put the
transmission in neutral. Do not apply the parking
brakes.
11. Check the distance between the bottom of the
left axle stop and the top of the axle U-bolt or
U-bolt pad.
IMPORTANT: Suspensions with Dual-Leaf 12/20/2005 f320838b
Springs, and all Vehicles built before August
24, 2001: Measure between the top of the Suspension Height
Measure Point Measurement (A)
U-bolt and the bottom of the axle stop (distance
A). Min Target Max
2-3/8 inch 2-5/8 inch 2-7/8 inch
Suspensions with Single-Leaf Springs, built A = Measure Here
(60 mm) (67 mm) (73 mm)
after August 24, 2001: Measure between the
top of the U-bolt pad and the bottom of the axle Table 1, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Dual-
Leaf Spring, 20k/40k High Ride
stop (distance B).
12. If the distance is within the acceptable range, the
ride height is adjusted correctly.
09/28/2005 f321046a
A B
09/27/2005 f320933a
A B
09/27/2005 f320934a
A B
11/11/2005 f320932a
Height-Control Valve Checking tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
back the studs out, causing a separation of the
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
It is normal to hear air escaping from the height-
control valve for as much as 10 minutes after getting
out of the vehicle when it is in an unladen condition. Checking the Height-Control
This air "leaking" is just the height-control valve ex-
hausting air from the suspension air springs in order
Valve Without Using a Test Kit
to return to the neutral mode.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
The height-control valves used on the Business
Class M2 are Barksdale valves. Two methods are 2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at
available to check the operation of the Barksdale least 100 psi (690 kPa).
height-control valves. A leak in the valve may be dis- 3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for
covered without using a test kit, but a test kit is nec- the air suspension system to equalize.
essary to determine if the valve has an unacceptable
rate of leakage. NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control
valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to
Some Barksdale height-control valves have been re- settle. Any air leakage during this time is consid-
turned for warranty because the four bolts in the ered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve housing were overtightened, often, enough to
crack the valve housing. These bolts should not be
valve.
loose, and should not normally require tightening, as 4. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control
there are no serviceable parts in the valve. lever; see Fig. 1.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- 2
lowing:
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- 3
dale height-control valve housing if you
4
detect leaks in the housing. The bolts
1
should not be loose, and should not re-
quire tightening. Only if necessary, tighten
the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in (500 5
N·cm). Any damage to the valve housing
will void the warranty. 6
6. Return the control lever to the neutral position. settle. Any air leakage during this time is consid-
Air should stop flowing. If so, that section of the ered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve is working. valve.
7. Push the control lever down about 45 degrees 4. For valves without an integral dump port, go to
for 6 to 8 seconds. If air exhausts from the valve, the next step.
that section of the valve is working.
For valves with an integral dump port, check the
8. Return the control lever to the neutral position. If rubber exhaust flapper at the back of the valve
the air stops again in the neutral position, the housing for leaks; see Fig. 2. Use a soapy solu-
valve is working correctly. tion.
9. If the valve works as stated in all of the above
If a leak is found, there may be contaminants
steps, then no further checking is necessary.
blocking the piston. Cycle the height-control
Connect the vertical linkage to the control lever,
valve switch inside the cab for two-second
then tighten the linkage nut.
bursts, four or five times, to clear away any con-
If needed, adjust the ride height or replace the taminants.
height-control valve. For adjustment of the ride
height, see Subject 110. For replacement of the
height-control valve, see Subject 130.
NOTE: If a leak is detected on a Barksdale
height-control valve, go to "Checking the Height-
Control Valve Using a Test Kit". Barksdale
valves have an acceptable leak rate of 3 cubic
inches (50 cc) per minute. You can determine if
a leak is acceptable only by using the Barksdale
test kit.
1. If not already done, park the vehicle on a level 7. If equipped with an integral dump port, turn on
surface, apply the parking brakes, and chock the the quick dump switch on the dash. Leave the
tires. switch on until testing is complete.
2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at If not equipped with an integral dump port, dis-
least 100 psi (690 kPa). connect the air lines from the air spring ports on
the height-control valve. Leave the elbow fittings
3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for (if equipped) in place. Install a Parker plug into
the air suspension system to equalize. each air spring port (or elbow fitting); see Fig. 3.
NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control 8. If a flapper is present on the exhaust port of the
valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to height-control valve, remove it using needlenose
pliers.
7
3 A
2 1
2 1
4 6
B
10/08/2007 f321105
A. Fill B. Exhaust
1. Air Spring Port 4. Exhaust Port Test Fitting 6. Reset Button
2. Parker Plug 5. Air Line 7. Test Gauge Assembly
3. Air Intake Port
9. Clean the surface around the exhaust port, then exhaust pressure change versus inlet
install the test fitting into the exhaust port. The pressure.
centering pin on the fitting must align with the
The valve is not working correctly if the
slot on the exhaust port. Rotate the test fitting 45
gauge pressure reading exceeds the
degrees clockwise to lock it in place; see Fig. 3.
maximum allowable within 30 seconds.
NOTE: It may be necessary to cut the tie straps
If the gauge reads less than the maximum
that hold the chassis wiring running below the allowable pressure change in 30 seconds,
height-control valve, in order to access the ex- the valve is okay.
haust port.
NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaust-
10. Connect one end of the air hose from the kit to ing air. This does not indicate a defective valve.
the test connector on the exhaust port, and the
other end to the test gauge. 12. Check the height-control valve in the exhaust
mode, as follows.
11. Check the height-control valve in the fill mode,
as follows. 12.1 Rotate the valve control lever down 45
degrees from the horizontal to the exhaust
11.1 Rotate the valve control lever up 45 de-
position.
grees from the horizontal to the fill posi-
tion. 12.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge.
11.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge. 12.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
Refer to Fig. 4 for the maximum allowable
11.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
Refer to Fig. 4 for the maximum allowable
PSI
EXHAUST PRESSURE CHANGE
25
MAXIMUM ALLOWANCE
20
15
INLET PRESSURE
06/22/2007 f321039a
2. Drain all air from the air tanks. 1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control
2. Valve Mounting Lever
Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
WARNING 3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage
4. Neutral-Position Hole
Air lines under pressure can whip dangerously if
disconnected under pressure. Drain all air from Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve
the air tanks before disconnecting air lines. Dis-
connecting pressurized air lines can cause per-
sonal injury and/or property damage. NOTICE
3. Remove the nut and washer that attaches the When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
vertical linkage to the horizontal control lever. control valve from a mounting bracket, always
Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
lever; see Fig. 1. an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
4. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
until all air is exhausted from the air springs. the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
5. Disconnect the air lines at the height-control studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
valve, and mark the lines for later reference. valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
Using tape, cover the open ends of the air lines tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
and fittings to prevent dirt or foreign material back the studs out, causing a separation of the
from entering. two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
IMPORTANT: For quick-connect tube fittings, do 6. While holding the height-control valve mounting
not remove the tube by cutting it close to the studs in place with an Allen wrench, remove the
fitting. If the remaining part of the tube cannot nuts and washers that attach the valve to the
be pulled from the fitting, the fitting will not be mounting bracket. Remove the height-control
reusable and the warranty on that unit will be valve.
void. 7. Position the new height-control valve on the
height-control bracket. While holding the height-
control valve mounting studs in place with an
Allen wrench, install the nuts and washers, and
WARNING
Use only the retainers included with the replace-
ment shock absorber. Do not use washers. They
can be extruded over the nut and be ejected vio-
lently, possibly causing personal injury and prop-
erty damage.
6. Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting lock-
nut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
7. Tighten the shock absorber upper mounting nut
to compress the bushings to the dimension as
shown in Fig. 1.
2 1
11/17/95 f320459
1. Frame Rail
2. Bushings
Air Spring Replacement crossbar) in place. See Fig. 4. Tighten the lock-
nut 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Effective March 2011, the steel 6. For bracket-mounted air springs: Attach the air
bead on the inside of the air bag where it at- spring to the upper mounting bracket, using the
taches to the piston, changed to a square bead 1/2–13 locknut on the outside of the frame rail
to increase the pull-off force between the air bag and the 3/4–16 locknut on the inside. See Fig. 2.
and piston. The new air bag is stamped “BD8” Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
and “Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to
Piston.” See Fig. 1. With this design change it is For flange-mounted air springs: Attach the air
not possible to reseat the air bag to the piston. spring to the frame rail flange, using the 3/4–16
In the event of an air bag failure, or separation locknut on the forward stud of the air spring, and
from the piston, the complete air-spring assem- the 1/2–13 locknut on the rear stud. See Fig. 3.
bly must be replaced. For service it is accept- Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
able to have a replacement air-spring assembly
on one side of the vehicle, and an older style on 7. Remove the tape from the ends of the air supply
the other side. line, the fitting, and the brass tee. Connect the
air supply line to the air spring. Tighten nylon
NOTE: The air-spring-to-frame-rail mounting tube air fittings until only two threads show on
bracket is not supplied with the air-spring as- the fitting. On wire-braid hose fittings, tighten the
sembly. If it needs to be replaced it must be or- nut with a wrench until there is firm resistance,
dered separately. then tighten one-sixth turn more.
Follow these steps to replace the air-spring and pis- 8. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
ton assembly. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Chock the front tires. Raise the vehicle frame
and support it with safety stands to remove all
weight from the air springs. The leveling valve
automatically releases air from the air springs
when all weight is removed from the suspension.
2. Disconnect the air supply line, including the
brass tee, from the air spring. Using tape, cover
the ends of the air supply line and the fitting to
prevent dirt or foreign material from entering.
3. Remove the locknuts and washers that connect
the air spring to the upper mounting bracket, or
to the frame rail flange. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
4. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers that
connect the air spring to the rear of the leaf
spring. Remove the air spring. See Fig. 4.
NOTE: Suspensions manufactured to a
46,000(20 865kg) or 23,000-pound (10 433 kg)
weight rating have a different leaf spring, and an
additional crossbar attached between the air
spring and rear of the leaf spring. See Fig. 5.
5. Place the new air spring on the rear of the leaf
spring (or the crossbar on the 23,000 and
46,000-pound suspensions), and install the
washer and locknut that hold the air spring (and
03/15/2011 f321160
A. Caution: Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to Piston
A
3
06/08/94 f320133
A. Air line connects here.
1. Right Frame Rail Flange
2. Locknut and Washer 06/08/94 f320134
3. Upper Mounting Bracket
Fig. 4, Capscrew Connecting Leaf Spring and Air
Spring
Fig. 2, Bracket-Mounted Air Spring
2 3
4
06/02/94 f320386 3
1. Frame Rail (left) 2
2. 3/4–16 Locknut and Washer
04/04/2002 f320964
3. 1/2–13 Locknut and Washer
4. Air Spring 1. Leaf Spring 3. Air Spring
2. Crossbar
Fig. 3, Flange-Mounted Air Spring
Fig. 5, Leaf Spring and Air Spring Assembly (23,000
and 46,000- pound suspensions)
WARNING
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to
other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as-
1
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri-
ous personal injury or property damage.
1. Chock the front tires. 3
If the air spring mounts to a crossbar, disconnect If the air spring mounts to a crossbar, attach the
the crossbar from the leaf spring by removing the crossbar to the leaf spring assembly. The longer
capscrews, nuts, and washers. See Fig. 1. capscrews attach in the forwardmost holes; the
shorter capscrews attach in the aft holes.
5. Note the number and position of the alignment
shims on the spring mounting bolt. See Fig. 2. 10. Making sure that the U-bolt pads are in place on
the top of the axle, fasten the leaf spring assem-
6. Remove the hexnut, washers, alignment shim(s), bly to the axle using the U-bolts, axle clamp,
spring mounting bolt, and wear shoe clip from washers, and high nuts making sure the U-bolt
the spring hanger. See Fig. 2. pads and axle clamps are positioned correctly.
NOTE: On single-drive axles angled 5 degrees,
WARNING the arrow on the U-bolt pads must point to the
The leaf spring assembly is heavy. Use care front of the axle housing. See Fig. 3. On single-
when handling it to prevent injury. drive axles angled 3 degrees, there is no arrow.
Make sure that the axle bump stop on the
7. Remove and discard the leaf spring assembly.
U-bolt pad is positioned toward the vehicle cen-
8. While supporting a new leaf spring assembly terline. See Fig. 4.
with a jack, position the assembly on the spring
hanger. Install the bolts, wear shoe clips,
24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
17
11/17/95 f320462
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring
5. Spring Mounting Eye Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Mounting Bolt Bracket
10. Leaf Spring Assembly
With both 5- and 3-degree single-drive axle N·m). Then, in the same pattern, tighten them
angles, the arrow on the bottom of the axle 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m); then, torque to the final
clamp must point toward the rear of the vehicle. value of 400 to 460 lbf·ft (542 to 624 N·m).
See Fig. 2. For the 23,000-pound and 46,000-pound suspen-
On tandem axle suspensions, refer to Table 1 sions, tighten the high nuts in a diagonal pattern
for U-bolt pad orientation. The arrow on the bot- to a final torque value of 520 to 600 lbf·ft (705 to
813 N·m).
tom of the axle clamp must point toward the
rear of the vehicle on the forward rear axle and 12. Install the bolt, washers, and hexnut to connect
toward the front of the vehicle on the rearmost the shock absorber to its lower mounting bracket.
axle. Tighten the hexnut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
11. Hand tighten the high nuts. In a diagonal pattern, 13. Tighten the locknut on the bottom of the air
tighten the axle U-bolt high nuts 60 lbf·ft (81 spring 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
A
A A
08/02/94 f320139a
A. Axle Bump Stop
08/28/95 f320138a
A. Arrow on U-Bolt Pad Fig. 4, Axle Bump Stop Positioning
Fig. 3, U-Bolt Pad Arrow Positioning 16. Check the rear axle alignment. For instructions,
refer to the rear axle section in this manual. If
On 23,000-pound and 46,000-pound suspen- necessary, adjust the rear axle alignment using
sions, tighten the locknuts on the bottom of the the instructions in Subject 180.
crossbar 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
14. Tighten the hexnuts at the front of the leaf spring
170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For instruc-
tions, refer to Group 40 of this manual. Remove
the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
Interaxle Spacing:
Axle Designation U-Bolt Pad Orientation
inches (cm)
Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle
51 (130)
All centerline.
55 (140)
Rearmost Axle Arrow toward front of vehicle.
Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle
Meritor RT40-160 centerline.
Rearmost Axle Arrow toward front of vehicle.
59 (150) Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle
centerline.
All except Meritor RT46-160
Rearmost Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle
centerline.
Table 1, U-Bolt Pad Orientation for Axles
Rear Axle Alignment Adjusting 3. When the axle is in alignment, install alignment
shim(s) to take up the slack between the spring
hanger and the spring pin.
NOTE: See Fig. 1.
Follow the instructions in Group 35 to see if rear IMPORTANT: Make sure the same number of
axle alignment adjustment is needed. If adjustment is shims is installed on both ends of the spring pin.
needed, proceed as follows:
24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
17
11/17/95 f320462
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring /CALLOUTTEXT>
5. Spring Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Pinch Bolt Bracket
10 Leaf Spring Assembly
A 09/03/2002 f320975
A B
B
08/27/2002 f320974
Replacement
4 7
1. Park the vehicle. Shut down the engine, and ap- 5 6
ply the parking brakes.
2. Chock the tires. Raise the vehicle. Support the
frame rails with jack stands.
3
3. Remove the fasteners holding the control rod to
the frame rail bracket. Remove the shims, and 2
set the shims aside. 1
5. Remove the bushing from the leaf spring eye. 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
WARNING
Do not use a cutting torch to remove the outer
metal of the bushing from the spring eye. Weld-
ing, torching or cutting the leaf spring assembly
can damage the leaf spring material, which may
result in the failure of the components and cause
serious personal injury, death, or property dam-
age.
5.1 Using a shop press with a capacity of at
least 10 tons (9 072 kg), place the spring
assembly in the shop press with the
spring assembly squarely supported on
Torque Specifications
For fastener torque values, see Table 1.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty are no serviceable parts in the valve, and
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- any disassembly will void the warranty.
lowing:
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- NOTICE
dale height-control valve housing. The
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
bolts should not be loose, and should not control valve from a mounting bracket, always
require tightening. Only if necessary, hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
tighten the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
(500 N·cm). Any damage to the valve nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
housing will void the warranty. the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
• Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks- body, loosening the nuts without holding the
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
dale valve body or the control lever. There
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
Special Tools
Use the kit shown in Fig. 2 to test a Barksdale
height-control valve. Test kit BKS KD2264 is avail-
able via the Direct Ship program in Paragon.
1 2 3
5
4
06/05/2000 f320852
NOTE: Parts for cab suspension valve testing included.
1. Test Gauge Assembly with Reset Button
2. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
3. Parker Plugs
4. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Chassis Suspension Valve
5. Test Plugs for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
6. Special Tool for Disconnecting Air Line
7. Air Line
General Information
The TufTrac Suspension is heavy-duty "six rod"
tandem-axle suspension option for trucks built for
severe on/off highway work. See Fig. 1. The TufTrac
design allows a truck to maneuver over bumps,
ridges and washboard roads that typically generate
high rates of axle articulation, without bottoming out
the suspension or losing traction.
The TufTrac suspension is available in two weight
ratings: 40,000-, and 46,000-pound (18 144- and 20
865-kilogram) capacities. The 40,000-pound (18
144-kilogram) capacity suspension uses two taper
leaf springs and has an axle spacing of 54 inches.
The 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram) capacity sus-
pension has three leaf springs (shown in this sec-
tion). The 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram)
suspension has a standard axle spacing of 56
inches.
Principles of Operation
Six functional links in the TufTrac suspension main-
tain the positions of the axles. Side-to-side axle
movement is controlled by two V-rods from the frame
to the axles at the top of the differentials. Four con-
trol rods from the frame to the axles at the bottom
control the forces of driving and braking as well as
fore-and-aft road shocks. Vertical loads are carried
by the rubber-isolated parabolic taper leaf spring
packs.
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
Replacement
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine and apply the parking brakes. Chock
the tires.
2. Remove the lower shock mounting nut and
washer.
3. Remove the upper shock mounting nut and
washer.
4. Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts and
remove the shock absorber.
5. Position the new shock absorber in place and
install the mounting bolts.
6. Loosely fasten the bolts with the nuts and wash-
ers removed from the old shock absorber.
7. Torque each mounting nut 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1
1
2 2
3
3
4
4
05/07/99 f320797
1. Mounting Bolt 3. Shock Absorber
2. Upper Mounting Bracket 4. Lower Mounting Bracket
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
3
3
1
05/06/99 2 f310807
1. Jack 3. Frame Rail
2. Jack Stand 4. Rear Axle
04/16/99 f310805
05/17/99 f350388
1. Springs
2. Lift (hoist)
3. Frame Rail
Installation 3. Install the tip pad and bolts on each axle clamp.
Tighten the bolts 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m). See Fig. 1.
Lower Control Rod Forward axle rods are marked "FDA" and rear
axle rods "RDA."
Replacement
7. Fasten the new control rod to the axle clamp.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure. Tighten the nut 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
A 3 3 A
2
A
1
1
A 2
A 3 A
3
04/15/99 f310803
A. Label
1. V-Rod 2. Spacer 3. Lower Control Rod
1 1
3
3
3 3
1 1 2
2
4
2 04/15/99 f310802
1. Mounting Bolt 3. Spacer
2. V-Rod
1 2 3 1
06/10/99 f320800
1. Lower Control Rod 3. Mounting Nut
2. Mounting Bolt
1 2 1 2
4 5 4
4
4
7 6
6 7
07/07/99 f310812
4 1
07/02/99 f320810 2 3
07/07/99 f350392
Fig. 2, Jack the Vehicle Here A. Centerline of Spring
12. Install the new upper axle clamps onto the left 1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
forward and left rear drive axles. Locate the 2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
dowel pin through the hole in the bottom of each Fig. 3, U-Bolt Nut Tightening Sequence
axle clamp to confirm proper alignment
18. Install the lower torque control rods to the lower
13. Install the lower spring tip pads into the left front axle retainers on the left side of the vehicle and
and rear axle clamps. tighten 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
14. Jack up the left suspension spring, remove the 19. Install the shock absorbers to the lower axle re-
jack stands, and lower the suspension spring. tainers.
Ensure while the spring is being lowered that it is
seated correctly onto the lower spring tip pads. 19.1 Install the lower shock mounting bolts.
15. Install the new lower axle retainers onto the left 19.2 Install the lower shock absorber mounting
forward and rear drive axles. washers and nuts and tighten by hand.
16. Install the brake cam tube support bracket onto 19.3 Tighten the lower shock absorber mount-
the left rear axle. ing nuts to 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
17. Install the U-bolts on the left forward and rear 20. Install the spring tip pads to the left suspension
drive axles. spring.
17.1 Install each U-bolt over the U-bolt saddle 20.1 Install the spring tip pads to the upper
in the upper axle clamp and through the axle clamps.
holes in the lower axle retainer.
20.2 Install the bolts to secure each upper
17.2 Install the washers and finger-tighten the spring tip pad and tighten 37 lbf·ft (50
nuts in the order shown in Fig. 3. N·m).
Make sure all brackets are snug against 21. Repeat the above steps for the right suspension
the axle housing before proceeding to the spring.
next step.
22. Remove the chocks from the tires.
IMPORTANT: U-bolt nuts must be tightened
in the order shown in Fig. 3.
17.3 Tighten the nuts 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m) and
then to 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m) in two sepa-
rate rotations following the order shown in
Fig. 3.
Torque Specifications
Torque:
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt 241 (327)
Center Bearing Upper Mounting Bolts 68 (92)
Center Bearing Lower Mounting Bolts 155 (210)
Tip Pad Bolts 37 (50)
Rebound Stop Mounting Bolt 68 (92)
Lower Control Rod Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Frame Bracket Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Axle Bracket Mounting Bolts 427 (579)
Stage 1: Hand-Tighten
5/8–18 Axle Clamp U-Bolt Nuts (Tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
as shown in Fig. 1.)
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 1: 60 (81)
3/4-Inch Spring Pack U-Bolt Nuts Stage 2: 200 (271)
Stage 3: 300 (407)
Table 1, Torque Specifications
4 1
2 3
07/07/99 f350392
A. Centerline of Spring
1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
General Description there are no lubrication fittings since grease and oil
are never needed.
The Chalmers 854 rear suspension (Fig. 1 and The 854 rear suspension is available in three differ-
Fig. 2) is a walking beam-type tandem axle suspen- ent maximum load capacities: 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg),
sion that uses hollow rubber springs instead of leaf 46,000 lb. (21 000 kg), and 52,000 lb. (23 600 kg).
springs or air bags. Each hollow rubber spring is The 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg) version is easily distin-
mounted between a frame-rail plate and the center guished from the other two versions since the upper
(front-to-rear) of the steel walking beam. A sawhorse torque rods do not cross over one another on the
bracket assembly is attached to the frame and pro- 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg) version.
vides mounting points for the lower torque rods that
The 854 suspension is available in a 54-inch axle
tie the axles to the frame. The upper torque rods are
spacing. The axle-to-axle spacing dimension is often
fastened to brackets that bolt to the frame side rails
included as part of the suspension name, such as
and to tower assemblies that are welded to the top of
"Chalmers 852 Rear Suspension" or "Chalmers 854
the differential housings.
1 1
3 3
06/16/99 f320805
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
03/26/2002 13 f320960
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 2, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
03/26/2002 13 f320960
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 800 Series Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- and in the walking beam are free of rust and de-
ment. bris. See Fig. 3.
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle just enough to re-
move all weight from the rear axles, and place
safety stands under the frame to support the ve-
hicle in its raised position. 1
4. Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the
walking beam spring plate (Fig. 1, Ref. 17) to the
walking beam assembly. Discard the fasteners.
3 2
NOTE: On 54-inch spread suspensions, it may
be necessary to remove either the front or rear
tires to allow spring assembly removal. 3
Inspection 5
A
10/12/95 f320437
A. Inspect top surface for cracks or severe corrosion. Fig. 3, Spring Assembly Components
B. Carefully inspect can rim for cracks.
2. Inspect the spring plate for cracks; replace it if
Fig. 2, Restrictor Can Inspection Areas any are present.
NOTE: It is recommended that both restrictor IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral based oils,
cans be replaced at the same time to ensure greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
evenness of ride and handling characteristics. assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub-
2. Replace a cracked or severely corroded restrictor
can.
ber compounds.
3. Position the rubber spring on the spring plate so
it is upside down, relative to its original orienta-
Installation tion. Make sure that the spring vent hole is cen-
tered on the spring plate tube. Place the new
1. Using a stiff wire brush or gasket scraper, clean
restrictor can over the spring; make sure the can
rust and road dirt from the spring plate. Also,
is centered on the spring.
make sure that the center vent holes in the plate
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
03/26/2002 13 f320960
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only A. Make sure that the vent hole in the walking beam is
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub- free of rust and debris.
ber compounds. 1. Spring Restrictor Can
2. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Position the new rubber spring on the spring 3. Spring Plate Bolt
plate, making sure that the vent hole is centered 4. Spring Plate
on the spring plate tube. Place the restrictor can 5. Walking Beam
over the spring; make sure the can is centered
on the spring. Fig. 2, Spring Assembly Components
10. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, spring
and restrictor cap, into position on the walking
beam.
11. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
lbf·ft (47 N·m).
12. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
hicle, then lower the vehicle.
13. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2
1
5
4
10/13/95 f320438
1. Shock Absorber 3. Walking Beam 5. 3/4" Mounting Bolts
2. Frame-Mounted Bracket 4. Beam-Mounted Bracket
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
03/26/2002 13 f320960
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
10. Lift up the free end of the walking beam and A. Repairable Walking Beam
slide the beam rearward to disengage it from the B. Non-repairable Walking Beam
front axle saddle; remove the walking beam. 1. Cracks
1 1
B
3
01/11/96 f320442
1. Front Axle Housing, Beam Saddle Bracket
2. Walking Beam
3. Beam Stop
09/27/95 f320432
Fig. 4, Beam/Saddle Bracket Alignment
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn
area for reference. 6. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area lbf·ft (47 N·m).
to assess beam condition.
7. If so equipped, connect the beam-mounted
1. Walking Beam shock absorbers to the beam brackets and
tighten the fasteners 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
Fig. 3, Beam Wear Measurement
8. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
Installation hicle, then lower the vehicle.
9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Position the new or repaired walking beam over
the rearmost rear axle, with the front end of the
beam tilted downward.
2. Slide the beam forward and downward so the
front end of the beam enters the axle housing
saddle bracket. See Fig. 4. Let the middle of the
beam rest on the sawhorse bracket beam stop.
3. Carefully roll the rearmost rear axle forward,
while lifting the rear end of the walking beam
enough so the beam end enters the axle housing
saddle bracket.
4. Connect the rearmost axle’s upper and lower
torque rods to the axle housing brackets. Install
and tighten the torque rod bushing through-bolts
135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
5. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, rubber
spring, and restrictor cap, into position on the
walking beam.
Repair
NOTE: This subject addresses only instances 1
where excessive beam flange wear occurs, but
cracks in the web or flange are not present.
Cracked webs and/or flanges require walking
beam replacement.
Walking beams with excessive flange wear,
however, can be repaired by welding a Chalm- A
ers Wear Plate over the worn areas as de-
scribed below.
1. Remove the walking beam assembly. See Sub- B
ject 130 for information.
NOTE: Take flange thickness measurements at
least 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the flange edges.
Measurements taken at the flange edges are
not an accurate indication of beam wear and
may lead to unnecessary beam repair/ 09/27/95 f320432
replacement.
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn
2. Confirm that flange wear is severe enough to area for reference.
warrant repairs. Use a micrometer or vernier cali- B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area
pers to take flange thickness measurements at to assess beam condition.
both unworn and worn areas. The maximum al- 1. Walking Beam
lowable difference between unworn and worn
Fig. 1, Beam Wear Measurement
areas is 0.062 inch (1.5 mm). See Fig. 1.
3. If repair is required, clean the worn area of the 6. Remove the clamps and weld the plate to the
beam thoroughly. Make sure that any oil or beam, again, welding on the sides of the plate
grease is removed, as well as rust or road dirt only. See Fig. 2.
accumulation. If necessary, slight grinding of the 7. Prime and paint the repaired area.
beam is allowed to smooth raised areas.
8. Install the repaired walking beam assembly. See
4. Clamp Chalmers Wear Plate #700313 to the bot- Subject 130 for information.
tom flange of the beam. Make sure the plate is
centered and has good surface-to-surface con-
tact with the beam. Slight grinding is allowable to
obtain good plate-to-beam contact.
5. Tack weld the plate to the beam, welding on the
sides of the plate only.
CAUTION
Weld at the sides of the wear plate and beam
only. Never weld at the ends of the wear plate.
Welding the ends of the wear plate does not al-
low the wear plate to properly slightly expand nor
contract, an action which, if the ends are welded,
can cause cracks in the welds.
A
10/19/95 f320443
A. Limit weld to this area only.
1. Walking Beam 2. Wear Plate
The torque rods hold the rear axles in place, main- 1. If necessary, power wash the rear suspension to
taining both axle alignment and pinion nose angle. remove road dirt accumulation.
When servicing the torque rods, it is good practice to
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move-
remove and install them one at a time to avoid the
possibility of mixing them up and affecting the align- ment.
ment or pinion nose angle. 3. Relieve all drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
placing the transmission in neutral and releasing
Several different styles of torque rods and bushing
the spring or driveline brakes.
spigots exist. On the 40,000-pound version of the
852 suspension, the torque rods have tubular steel 4. Raise the rear of the vehicle to remove all weight
bodies and the upper rods do not cross over one an- from the rear axles, and place safety stands un-
other. On the 46,000- and 52,000-pound versions, der the frame to secure the vehicle in its raised
the lower torque rods have tubular steel bodies, but position.
the upper torque rods are made of "I-beam" shaped
ductile iron. These upper torque rods do cross over 5. Working on one torque rod at a time, remove the
torque rod bolts and spigot caps. Discard th
one another. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
03/27/2002 f320963
Removal bolts. Set the spigot caps aside for cleaning and
inspection.
NOTE: Inspect torque rod bushings for free play Remove the torque rods by prying between the
before removing the torque rods. See Sub- torque rod eye and the spigot base or frame
ject 160 for torque rod bushing inspection infor- bracket.
mation. NOTE: At the axle housing towers, pry off the
tower cap to access the torque rod fasteners.
01/11/96 f320447
Installation
1. Check the torque rod bushings to make sure
they are properly installed. They must be cen-
tered within the torque rod eye. See Fig. 4.
IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral-based oils,
greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub- 10/24/95 f320446
A
A
2
10/26/95 f320449
A. The amount of rubber protruding from each side of
the torque rod eye must be equal.
1. Torque Rod Bushing 2. Torque Rod Eye
CAUTION
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
age to the suspension.
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
periodic torquing. For suspension component
inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the Busi-
ness Class M2 Maintenance Manual.
Torque:
Description Bolt Size IFI Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
Beam Spring Plate Bolt 3/8 UNC 8 35 (47)
Torque Rod End Through Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Shock Absorber Bolt 3/4 8 170 (230)
Torque Rod End Pinch Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Table 1, Fastener Torques, 854 Suspension
General Description
The Hendrickson RT series suspension (see Fig. 1)
uses leaf springs to lessen road shocks. The forward
and rear ends of the spring assembly ride in hang-
ers. At the forward end, the springs are attached to
the hanger with pins. At the rear end, the springs
have no rigid attachment to the hangers, and are
free to move forward and backward to compensate
for spring deflection.
The RTE series suspension (see Fig. 2) is basically
the same as the RT suspension. However, the RTE
series uses a different spring assembly and a third
spring hanger. This design provides a two-stage
spring rate, depending on vehicle load condition.
When the vehicle is unloaded, a gap exists between
the top spring leaf and the no. 2 spring hanger. The
weight of the vehicle is then carried through the no. 3
spring hanger, and most of the spring deflection
through the top extended leaves (see Fig. 3). When
the vehicle is loaded, the top extended leaf contacts 03/29/93 f320067
the no. 2 spring hanger and the spring weight is car- Fig. 2, RTE Series Suspension
ried through the nos. 1 and 2 spring hangers (see
Fig. 4).
CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic® compound, or an
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
of the metals, resulting in damage to the compo-
nents or parts.
1 2 3
12/27/94 f320358a
03/29/93 f320066
A. Gap
Fig. 1, RT Series Suspension 1. No. 1 Spring Hanger 3. No. 3 Spring Hanger
2. No. 2 Spring Hanger
1 2 3
12/27/94 f320359a
A. Gap
1. No. 1 Spring Hanger
2. No. 2 Spring Hanger
3. No. 3 Spring Hanger
WARNING
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
teners could result in damage to the frame hang-
ers or separation of components. This could
cause a loss of vehicle control, resulting in injury
or property damage.
Removal Installation
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure. NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure.
1. Chock the front tires. 1. Roll the axles under the vehicle frame. Align the
center bushing of each equalizer beam with the
2. Drain the vehicle air system.
center of the saddle legs.
3. Disconnect all air lines leading to the rear axles,
2. Raise the vehicle frame off the safety stands,
marking the lines for later assembly reference.
then remove the safety stands.
Plug or cap all lines and fittings to prevent dirt
3. Lower the frame, centering the saddles on the
from entering the system.
beam center bushings.
4. Disconnect the driveline rear universal joint from
4. Lubricate the saddle cap studs with SAE 20 oil.
the forward-rear axle. Then remove the interaxle Install the saddle caps, washers and new self-
driveline. For instructions, see Group 41 of this locking nuts. Do not tighten.
manual.
5. Install the torque rods. For instructions, see Sub-
5. Manually release the spring brake chambers. For ject 180.
instructions, see Group 42 of this manual.
6. Tighten the saddle cap locknuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
WARNING (305 to 373 N·m).
NOTE: Maintain an even gap between the
When the torque rods are disconnected from the saddle cap and the saddle when tightening the
axle brackets, the axles become free to pivot on
self-locking nuts. See Fig. 2.
the equalizer beam end bushings. Keep clear of
the beam hangers and beam ends to avoid pos- 7. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
sible injury. and axle, and lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the torque rods. For instructions, see 8. Manually reset the spring brake chambers. For
Subject 180. instructions, see Group 42 of this manual.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is 9. Connect the driveline rear universal joint to the
removed from the suspension. Then, block the forward-rear axle. Connect the interaxle driveline.
axles and the frame with safety stands. Make For instructions, refer to the driveline section of
sure the stands will securely support the weight this manual.
of the axles and the frame.
10. Uncap all air lines and fittings, then connect the
NOTE: Do not raise the vehicle to the point lines leading to the rear axles.
where the weight of the suspension and axles 11. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
hangs from the vehicle. refer to the driveline section of this manual.
8. Remove the saddle cap nuts and washers from
each side of the vehicle, and remove the saddle
caps.
NOTE: If the saddle cap studs are damaged,
replace them.
9. Raise the rear of the vehicle frame until there is
enough clearance to roll the axles out from under
the vehicle. Install safety stands under the frame,
then roll the axles—with the equalizer beams
attached—out from under the vehicle.
2 8
3 9 11 13
4 37 12
5
17
14
18
15
6
16 19
20 19
24
22
36
25
27 21 23 37
26 36
38 43
44
30 32 31 39 39
29 34 33 37 37
35
28
40 42 4140
9 41 45
29 10
30
09/07/94 f320141a
1. Forward (no. 1) Spring Hanger 16. Spring Alignment Clip 31. Grease Fitting (bronze bushing)
2. Locknut 17. Rear (no.2) Spring Hanger 32. Saddle Cap
3. Washer 18. Rebound Spacer Bolt 33. Saddle Cap Stud
4. Spring Pin 19. Spacer Bolt Washer 34. Saddle Cap Washer
5. Grease Fitting 20. Spacer Bolt Locknut 35. Saddle Cap Nut
6. Spring Eye Bushing 21. Rebound Spacer 36. Adapter Bolt and Washer
7. Lockbolt 22. RTE Rear (no.3) Spring Hanger 37. Adapter
8. Top Pad Bolt 23. RTE Spring Extension 38. End Bushing
9. Top Pad Washer 24. Saddle Assembly 39. Intermediate Tube
10. Top Pad Locknut 25. Equalizer Beam Assembly 40. Adapter Bolt Washer
11. Top Pad 26. Rubber Center Bushing 41. Adapter Bolt Nut
12. Setscrew Washer 27. Crosstube 42. Adapter-Type End
13. Setscrew and Locknut 28. Bronze Center Bushing 43. Split-Ring
14. Spring Assembly 29. Bushing Grease Seal 44. Adapter Plug
15. Spring Center Bolt and Nut 30. Thrustwashers (4 qty.) 45. Split-Ring Adapter Assembly
2
08/02/94 f320181a
Removal Installation
1. Remove the suspension. For instructions, see 1. Seat the leaf spring assembly on the saddle.
Subject 100.
2. Position the top pad on the spring assembly.
2. Support the spring and saddle assembly with a Check that the top pad is properly seated.
floor jack.
NOTE: The main leaf has a cup that is forged
3. Remove the locknuts from the spring pin lock- upward at the center bolt. This cup serves as a
bolts; then remove the lockbolts and washers pilot when installing the top pad, and ensures
from the number one spring hanger. correct alignment of the spring assembly.
4. Using a suitable drift, drive the spring pin through 3. Lubricate the threads on the top pad bolts with
the no. 1 spring hanger and out the inboard side SAE 20 oil, then install the washers and bolts
of the spring hanger. See Fig. 1. through the top pad and saddle. Install new nuts
and washers finger-tight. Do not tighten at this
time.
4. Lubricate the threads on the spring setscrews
with SAE 20 oil. Hand-tighten the spring set-
screws against the leaf springs. Tighten the set-
screws 100 to 150 lbf·ft (135 to 203 N·m), then
tighten the setscrew locknuts until the lock-
washer is locked.
5. Tighten the top pad nuts 275 to 400 lbf·ft (373 to
542 N·m). Use the tightening sequence shown in
Fig. 2.
6. Position the spring and saddle assembly into the
08/02/94 f320179a no. 1 and no. 2 spring hangers.
Fig. 1, Driving Out the Spring Pin
1
5. Remove the locknut and lockwasher from the
rebound spacer bolt in the no. 2 spring hanger.
Remove the rebound spacer bolt and the spacer. 2
a c
WARNING
The leaf spring assembly is heavy. Use care
when handling it to prevent injury. 3
d b
6. Lower the spring and saddle assembly from the
spring hangers.
7. Loosen the spring alignment setscrews on the
top pad. Remove the top pad nuts, washers, and 4
bolts. 08/02/94 f320180a
WARNING 1
Removal
1 2 3 4
IMPORTANT: To ensure that the required tools
are available, see the applicable table under
Specifications 400 before beginning these pro-
cedures. Special tools are available from the
Owatonna Tool Company, Owatonna, Minne-
sota, or an affiliated dealer. Although these tools
are recommended, shop-made adapters can be
used if a vertical hydraulic press with a 50-ton
capacity is available. Dimensions for the shop-
made adapters are provided in Specifica- 5
6 7
tions 400. 08/02/94 f320337a
1. Chock the front tires. 1. Axle Beam Hanger 5. End Tube Nut
2. Bushing Inner 6. Equalizer Beam
2. Remove the saddle cap nuts and washers, then Sleeve 7. Bushing Outer
remove the saddle cap. Support the equalizer 3. Rubber End Bushing Sleeve
beam with safety stands. 4. Beam End Tube
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the saddle
Fig. 1, Equalizer Beam Tube-Type End Support
studs clear the equalizer beam. Block the axles
and frame with safety stands.
4. Remove the wheels and tires. For instructions, 1
refer to the wheels and tires section of this
manual.
5. Remove the brake shoes, brake spider, and 10
brake backing plate (dust shield). Refer to the
brake section of this manual for instructions. 2
6. Apply a penetrating oil to all beam end connec- 9
tions.
7. On a tube-type end support, remove the tube
3 8
nuts from both sides of the beam end tube. See
Fig. 1.
On an adapter-type end support, remove the nut,
washers, and the adapter bolt. See Fig. 2. 4 5 A
6 7
8. If using Owatonna tools, remove the tube-type 08/02/94 f320338a
end supports by positioning the receiving tube A. The new busing will have a small gap here.
over the outboard end of the beam end tube.
1. Axle Beam Hanger 6. Equalizer Beam
Position the hydraulic ram, pulling screw, speed 2. Adapter 7. Bushing Inner
nut, and the removing adapter. See Fig. 3. Con- 3. Adapter Bolt Nut Sleeve
nect a hydraulic pumping unit to the ram, and 4. Rubber End Bushing 8. Adapter Bolt
apply pressure to remove the beam end tube. 5. Bushing Outer 9. Washer (both ends)
Sleeve 10. Intermediate Tube
9. If using Owatonna tools, remove the adapter-
type end supports as follows:
Fig. 2, Equalizer Beam Adapter-Type End Support
9.1 Using either a 7/8- or 15/16-inch hand-tap,
tap the adapter bolt hole (outboard side) NOTE: Determine the correct size of hand-
to a depth of about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm). tap by using the plug gauge. If the gauge
See Fig. 4.
2 4 5
3
1
7 6
8
08/03/94 f320160a
1. Pulling Screw 4. Beam Hanger 7. Tube-Type Hanger Pin
2. Ram 5. Equalizer Beam 8. Speed Nut
3. Receiving Tube 6. Removing Adapter
1 2
1 5
4
08/03/94 f320161a 3
1. Hand-Tap
9.2 On the outboard side of the axle, thread Fig. 5, Cross-Sectional View
the removing screw into the tapped hole.
Position the receiving cup and hexnut on 9.3 On the inboard side of the axle, position
the removing screw. See Fig. 5. the receiving cup over the adapter plug.
Turn the hexnut until the adapter plug On the outboard side of the axle, insert
breaks loose and bottoms on the inside of the removing screw through the receiving
the receiving cup. If needed, add spacers cup and secure it with the hexnut. See
to complete removal of the adapter plug. Fig. 7.
See Fig. 6. 9.4 Hold the removing screw and turn the nut
with a 1-1/2 inch open-or box-end wrench.
5
1
f320165a
1
12/28/94
1. End Beam Adapter 3. End Beam Hanger
Plug 4. Receiving Cup
2. Removing Screw 5. Hexnut
12. Lower the equalizer beams and the crosstube to end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the
the ground. Remove the thrustwashers and pull beam end tubes.
the beams from the crosstube.
4. Position the saddle caps on the saddle cap
studs, then install the washers and new self-
Installation locking nuts. Tighten the nuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
(305 to 373 N·m).
1. On adapter-type end supports, apply Texaco 5. Tighten the adapter bolt nuts 210 to 240 lbf·ft
Compound L or an equivalent rust preventive (285 to 325 N·m). Make sure the flat section of
lubricant to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam the adapter flange is in the vertical position. See
end bushing inner sleeve, end support adapters, Fig. 9.
outside surface of the bushing intermediate
tubes, and the ends of the crosstube. 6. Tighten the end tube nuts 375 to 425 lbf·ft (508
to 576 N·m).
Install the crosstube and thrustwashers in both
equalizer beam center bushings.
WARNING
On tube-type end supports, apply Texaco Com-
pound L, or an equivalent rust preventive lubri- The adapter bolt nuts and end tube nuts must be
cant, to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam end tightened to the values in the previous two steps.
bushing inner sleeve, outer surface of the beam If not, the metal surfaces of the end support as-
end tubes, beam center bushing inner sleeves, sembly will rub, and excessive wear to the beam
and the ends of the crosstube. hanger legs and end bushing inner sleeves will
occur. This could result in separation of suspen-
Using SAE 20 oil, lubricate the threads of the sion components, loss of vehicle control, and
beam end tube, then install the crosstube and possible injury or property damage.
thrustwashers in both equalizer beam center
bushings. 7. Install the brake backing plate (dust shield),
brake spider, and brake shoes. Refer to the
2. Position the equalizer beam assembly under the brake section of this manual for instructions.
axles, then raise the assembly and place the for-
ward ends of each beam in the forward-rear axle 8. Install the wheels and tires. For instructions, see
beam hangers. Align the beam end bushings Group 40 of this manual.
with the beam hangers.
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter-
mediate tubes, the adapters, the adapter bolt,
washers, and nut in each beam end to hold the
beam in the axle beam hangers. Do not tighten.
On tube-type end supports, install the beam end
tubes through the beam hangers and the beam 1
end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the 2
beam end tubes.
3. Place the rear ends of each beam in the rear- 3
most axle beam hangers. Align the beam end
bushings with the beam hangers.
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter-
mediate tubes, the adapters, the adapter bolt,
washers, and nut in each beam end to hold the
beam in the axle beam hangers. Do not tighten. 08/04/94 f320354a
Removal
WARNING
Don’t use a cutting torch to remove the beam
end bushing. Equalizer beams are heat-treated by
the manufacturer. Using a cutting torch could
weaken the beams, and may result in a loss of
vehicle control. This could cause personal injury
or property damage.
1. Remove the equalizer beam ends from the axle 08/03/94 f320167a
beam hangers. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 130. Fig. 1, Cutting Off the Protruding Rubber
2. Cut off the protruding rubber from one side of
each beam end bushing. See Fig. 1.
3. If using Owatonna tools, remove the beam end
bushings as follows (see Fig. 2):
3.1 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- 3
ing tube.
3.2 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the 4
pulling screw through the end bushing.
2
3.3 Install the end bushing removing adapter
on the inboard side of the beam end 5
bushing. Check that the cone-shaped sur- 1
face of the adapter is facing the equalizer
beam. 6
IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so
that the bushing will clear the edges of the
tube when force is exerted against the
03/23/93 f320330a
beam. Align the removing adapter so that
force is exerted only on the bushing to en- 1. Speed Nut 4. Hexnut
2. Pulling Screw 5. Receiving Adapter
sure a clean pull through the beam. 3. Removing Adapter 5. Receiving Tube
3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.
Full thread engagement is needed. Fig. 2, Removing The Beam End Bushing
3.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools
reaches its stroke limit. are aligned correctly, attach a sledging
adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
3.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- screw. Maintaining hydraulic pressure, strike
ments are needed to completely remove the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
the end bushing. A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of
the pressure gauge reading indicate the
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau- bushing has broken loose.
lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose, 4. If using shop-made adapters, remove the beam
end bushings as follows:
Installation 5
1
1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor- 6
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer
beam eyes for cracks, gouges, or damage. Re-
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi-
tions exist.
08/03/94 f320331a
2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the
1. Speed Nut 4. Plate
new equalizer beam end bushings. Apply a thin
2. Adapter Clamp 5. Receiving Adapter
coating of Texaco Compound L, or an equivalent 3. Hexnut 6. Pulling Screw
rust preventive lubricant, to the surface of the
outer sleeves on the new bushing. Fig. 3, Installing the Beam End Bushing
3. If using Owatonna tools, install the beam end 3.8 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
bushings as follows (see Fig. 3): tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-
3.1 Fit the adapter clamp over the exposed ments are needed to completely install
rubber on the new bushing. Tighten the the end bushing.
clamp nuts until the clamp is flush against NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping
the bushing outer sleeve. unit should read 4,000 to 5,500 psi (27 580
3.2 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- to 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the
ing tube. reading reaches the operating limit of 10,000
psi (68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not go-
3.3 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the
pulling screw through the end bushing. ing into the beam end, check the alignment
of the bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equip-
3.4 Center the adapter clamp and bushing on ment. Installation is complete when the
the inboard side of the beam end. adapter clamp is flush against the beam.
3.5 Install the adapter plate and secure it with 3.9 Install the equalizer beam ends on the
the hexnut. axle beam hangers. For instructions, see
IMPORTANT: Check that the new bushing Subject 130.
and the installation tools are centered so 4. If using shop-made adapters, install the beam
that the bushing will clear the receiving tube end bushings as follows (see Fig. 4):
when force is exerted against the beam.
4.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
3.6 Tighten the speed nut and remove any hydraulic press.
slack in the assembly.
4.2 Using a sheave puller, compress the ex-
3.7 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the posed rubber of the bushing until the
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder puller jaws are flush against the end of
reaches its stroke limit. the bushing outer sleeve.
4
5
12/28/94 f320068a
1. Press 4. Equalizer Bar
2. Adapter 5. Bushing
3. Sheave Puller
A
3 2 B
C
6 D
2 BB
I
E
8 AA
F
1 G
7
H
04/23/96 f320522
The material used to make the tool is: 0.50" (13 mm) wall x 5.0" (127 mm) o.d. x 5.0" (127 mm) long steel tubing.
NOTE: The assembly tool must be split in half as shown.
A. 5.0" (127 mm) D. 0.50" (13 mm) G. 2.62" (67 mm)
B. 4.43" (113 mm) E. 1.07" (27 mm) H. 5.0" (127 mm)
C. 4.12" (105 mm) F. 1.54" (39 mm) I. 1.0" (25 mm)
AA.Recess flat counter bore, 2.0" (51 mm) x 0.25" (6 mm) deep.
BB.Tool wall, 0.50" (13 mm), top view.
1. Bolt, 1" (25 mm) 4. Locknut 7. Equalizer Beam
2. Washer, 1" (25 mm) o.d. 5. Alignment Pins 8. Alignment Pin Hole
3. Assembly Tool 6. Bar Pin/Bushing Assembly
7. Install the four bolts attaching the equalizer beam Hendrickson Truck Suspension Systems
to the saddle. Tighten 225 to 275 lbf·ft (305 to 1-630-910-2800
375 N·m). 1-800-973-0360
(fax) 1-630-378-4849
8. Remove the jack stands. 800 South Frontage Road
Woodridge, IL 60517-4904
9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
8.4 Install spacers between the ram cylinder 3.1 Center the hydraulic ram and slide the
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut pulling screw through the beam eye.
and remove any slack in the assembly.
3.2 Position the bushing on the inboard side
8.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the of the beam eye.
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder
reaches its stroke limit. IMPORTANT: Center the new bushing to
ensure a clean pull through the beam eye.
8.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- 3.3 Fit the installing adapter over the inner
ments are needed to completely remove sleeve and against the outer sleeve of the
the bushing. bushing.
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau- 3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.
lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950 Full thread engagement is needed.
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose, 3.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
stop and check the alignment of the receiv- and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut
ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools and remove any slack in the assembly.
are aligned correctly, attach a sledging 3.6 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling ram and apply force until the ram cylinder
screw. Maintaining hydraulic pressure, strike reaches its stroke limit.
the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
3.7 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-
the pressure gauge reading indicate that the ments are needed to completely install
bushing has broken loose. the center bushing.
9. If using shop-made adapters, remove the equal-
izer beams. For instructions, see Subject 130.
9.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
3
vertical hydraulic press.
2
9.2 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to
the applicable table under Specifica-
tions 400) on the trimmed end of the
equalizer beam bushing. Press the center 4
bushing from the beam eye.
Installation 1 5
2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the 1. Speed Nut 4. Bushing
new equalizer beam center bushings. Apply a 2. Installing Adapter 5. Pulling Screw
3. Hexnut
thin coating of Texaco Compound L, or an
equivalent rust preventive lubricant, to the sur- Fig. 3, Installing the Rubber Center Bushing
face of the outer sleeves on the new bushing.
NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping
3. If using Owatonna tools, install the rubber center
unit should read 4,000 to 5,500 psi (27 580
bushings as follows (see Fig. 3):
to 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the
WARNING
Wear protective welding masks and gloves when
welding. Failure to do so could result in personal
injury due to the intensity of heat, sparks, and
flying debris from the welding process.
3.9 Arc weld new end plugs to the tire side of
each center bushing inner sleeve.
NOTE: Heat from welding the end plugs will
not affect the beam or the new rubber bush-
ings because of their distance from the point
of welding.
4. Position the saddle caps on the saddle cap
studs, then install the washers and new self-
locking nuts. Tighten the nuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
(305 to 373 N·m).
5. If using shop-made adapters, position the equal-
izer beam on a 50-ton hydraulic press.
5.1 Using standard center bushings with the
end plugs welded in place, position the
shop-made adapter (refer to the appli-
cable table under Specifications 400)
over the inner sleeve of the bushing.
Check that the adapter bottoms against
the bushing outer sleeve, then press the
new bushing into the beam eye.
5.2 Install the equalizer beams. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 130.
Installation 1 6
4.3 Fit the installing adapter and the A. Vertical Centerline of Beam
removing/installing adapter against the 1. Bushing Lube 3. Center Bushing
outer sleeve of the bushing. Make sure Grooves Assembly
the deep ridge on the installing adapter is 2. Grease Fitting 4. Seal
positioned against the bronze bushing.
See Fig. 4. Fig. 3, Check Bushing Grooves
4.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw. 4.6 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
Full thread engagement is needed. ram and apply force until the ram cylinder
reaches its stroke limit.
4.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut 4.7 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
and remove any slack in the assembly. tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-
ments are needed to completely install
the center bushing.
2
NOTE: Check that the new seals are 1/6
inch (4 mm) inside the beam hub surface to
ensure clearance and protection of the seals
when the saddle cap is installed.
6. Apply a thin coating of multipurpose chassis
grease to the inside surface of the center bush-
ing. Slide the bushing center sleeve into the
bushing.
7. Install the grease fitting into the beam hub. Ro-
tate the center sleeve and apply multipurpose
chassis grease in the grease fitting. Lubricate
4 until clean grease appears at both ends of the
3 grease seals.
08/04/94 f320171a
1. Installing Adapter 8. Install the crosstube.
2. Removing/Installing Adapter
9. Install the saddle caps or the equalizer beam (if
3. Deep Ridge
4. Bushing removed) on the axle beam hangers. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 130.
Fig. 4, Position of Adapter
NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping 1
2
unit should read 4,000 to 5,500 psi (27 580
to 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the
reading reaches the operating limit of 10,000
psi (68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not go-
ing into the beam, check the alignment of
the bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equip-
ment. Installation is complete when the in-
stalling adapter is flush against the beam.
4.8 On the inboard side of the beam, position
a grease seal and installing adapter
against the center bushing. Make sure
the shallow end of the adapter is against 3
5
the grease seal. See Fig. 5. Using a
08/04/94 4 f320355a
hammer, tap the installing adapter until it
is flat against the beam. Using the same 1. Shallow Ridge
procedure, install a grease seal on the 2. Installing Adapter
outboard side of the beam. 3. Removing/Installing Adapter
4. Seal
5. If using shop-made adapters, position the equal- 5. Bushing
izer beam on a 50-ton hydraulic press.
Fig. 5, Seating Adapter and Seal
5.1 Center the new bushing in the beam eye.
Using a standard bushing driver, press
the bushing in until there is equal spacing
between both bushing ends and the sides
of the beam eye.
Removal torque rod stud. Apply lubricating oil (see Fig. 3),
then press the stud out of the bushing.
IMPORTANT: To ensure that the required tools 5. Position the bushing remover/replacer tool (using
are available, see the applicable table in Speci- the end with the larger outside diameter) on the
fications 400, before beginning these proce- bushing. Install the cap, then apply lubricating oil
dures. Special tools are available from the Owa- to the torque rod bushing.
tonna Tool Company, Owatonna, Minnesota, or 6. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
an affiliated dealer. eye.
7. Position the straddle mount end of the torque rod
WARNING into the hole of the press plate. Tighten the press
plate capscrews.
When the torque rods are disconnected from the
axle brackets, the axles become free to pivot on 8. Position the straddle mount pin remover on the
the equalizer beam end bushings. Keep clear of straddle mount pin. See Fig. 4.
the beam hangers and beam ends to avoid pos- 9. Apply lubricating oil to the straddle mount pin.
sible injury. Press the straddle mount pin out of the bushing.
1. On fore-and-aft torque rods, remove the flanged
10. Position the end of the rubber bushing remover/
bolts and nuts from the torque rod axle brackets,
replacer tool (using the end that has the larger
and the crossmember mounting brackets. Re-
outside diameter) on the bushing. Install the cap,
move the torque rods. See Fig. 1.
then apply lubricating oil to the torque rod bush-
On transverse torque rods, remove the nuts and ing.
washers from the axle brackets, and remove the
11. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
flanged bolts and nuts from the frame rail mount-
eye.
ing brackets. Remove the torque rods. See
Fig. 1.
NOTE: If necessary, use an impact hammer and
Installation
tap the top of the axle bracket to disengage the 1. Remove all dirt and grease from the torque rod
rod stud from the axle bracket. ends. Apply lubricant on the new bushings and in
2. Inspect the torque rods. If bent or cracked, re- the torque rod eyes.
place. Check the torque rod bushings. If one of 2. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press.
the bushings is loose or damaged, replace both Check that the small counterbore of the plate
of the bushings. hole is facing up.
3. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press. 3. Position the new bushing on the tapered stud of
Check that the small counterbore of the plate transverse torque rods. Position the clamp and
hole is facing up. tighten it to compress the rubber. See Fig. 5.
NOTE: Some tapered stud torque rod bushings 4. Place the torque rod end, the bushing, and the
have a large non-removable washer on the stud clamp on the press plate.
that will not fit though the press plate hole.
5. Place the remover/replacer tool (see Fig. 6) and
Loosen the press plate capscrews and separate cap on top of the clamping tool and press the
the halves (see Fig. 2) until the washer clears bushing in the torque rod end. Check that the
the counterbore, and the torque rod sets on the bushing sleeve protrudes equally on each side of
press plate. Tighten the capscrews until the the torque rod end.
press plate halves are closed.
6. On straddle mount end assemblies, align the
4. Position the tapered stud removal tool (using the clamping tool on the bushing. See Fig. 7 .
end with the larger inside diameter) on the Tighten the clamp to compress the rubber of the
new straddle mount bushing.
10
6 6
5
13
11
7
8 12
2
5 3 2
2
3
3 6 3
5 5 12
4 2 14
9
52
10
25 15 6
5
3
2 25 3
8 4
5
1
6
7
16
08/04/94 f320172a
1. Left-Hand Frame Rail 9. Forward-Rear Axle
2. Flanged Hexnut 10. Fore-and-Aft Torque Rod
3. Spacer 11. Capscrew
4. Transverse Torque Rod Mounting Bracket 12. Mounting Bracket
5. Hardened Washer 13. Right-Hand Frame Rail
6. Flanged Hexbolt 14. Crossmember
7. Transverse Torque Rod 15. Mounting Bracket
8. Mounting Bracket 16. Rear-Rear Axle
08/04/94 f320175a
02/04/2000 f320173b
08/04/94 f320075a
1. Bushing
2. Clamping Tool
08/04/94 f320363a
08/04/94 f320357a
1. Clamping Tool
2. Pin
General Description A
1 A
A
B B
08/29/94 f330082a
NOTE: B minus A equals toe-in.
Fig. 4, Wheel Toe-In (overhead view)
08/29/94 f400094a
A. Feathered Edges
12/20/94 f400096a
1. Knuckle Pin (King Pin)
A. Positive Caster
B. Zero Caster
C. Negative Caster
2. Do not mix tires of different size, type, or weight. 8. Check the steering angle, and adjust the axle
Tire wear should be even and not worn to limits steering stops, as needed. Refer to Subject 110.
exceeding government specifications. Refer to 9. Check the tie-rod ends for correct adjustment,
Group 40 of this manual and Group 40 of the tightness, and damage. Refer to Group 46 of the
Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual for Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual for in-
more information. Replace any tire that is exces- structions.
sively worn.
10. Check the front wheel bearings for wear and in-
3. Check the inflation pressure of the tires. Refer to correct adjustment. Refer to Section 33.01 for
Group 40 of this manual for recommended pres- instructions.
sures. An underinflated tire causes tread wear
completely around both tire shoulders. An overin-
flated tire causes tread wear in the center of the
tire. See Fig. 1.
A B
12/14/94 f330081a
A. Underinflation Wear B. Overinflation Wear
08/29/94 f400098a
A
Incorrect camber angles could be caused by
damage in one or more of the following front axle
components: the knuckle pin, the knuckle pin
bushings, the axle spindle, or the axle beam. Re-
place twisted or otherwise damaged compo-
nents. Don’t try to straighten twisted or bent
components; replace them with new compo-
nents. If a bent or twisted front axle knuckle pin,
08/29/94 f330051a axle spindle, or axle beam has been straight-
A. Camber (Positive) ened, the axle warranty will be voided.
2
3
5
C
6
08/10/2001 f320926
CAUTION
Failure to periodically retighten the U-bolt nuts
could result in spring breakage and abnormal tire
wear.
7. Using the steps above, replace the shim on the
other side of the axle.
8. Do a final caster angle check.
9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
08/30/94 f330014a
08/30/94 f400100a
Removal 1
NOTE: This procedure involves removing the
axle from underneath the front of the vehicle. If
you cannot support the vehicle high enough for
the axle to clear the bumper, then you will need
to remove the bumper.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brakes, then chock the rear tires. 2
3
2. Tilt the hood.
3. If needed, remove the front bumper. See 4
Group 31 for instructions.
4. Raise the vehicle, then support the frame rails 5
with safety stands.
WARNING
6
When draining the air system, don’t look into the
air jets or direct them toward another person, as 08/10/2001 f320926
dirt or sludge particles may be in the airstream. 1. Axle Spring U-Bolt
Don’t disconnect pressurized hoses because 2. Leaf Spring Assembly
they may whip as air escapes from the line. Fail- 3. Spacer
ure to take all necessary precautions while work- 4. Front Caster Shim
ing on the air brake system can cause personal 5. Dowel Pin
injury. 6. U-Bolt High Nut
3. Slowly raise the axle up to the bottom of the leaf 16. Lower the hood.
springs, making sure the dowels on top of the
17. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
axle beam line up with the holes in the axle
spacers.
4. Install the axle stops onto the tops of the leaf
springs.
5. Install the U-bolts.
5.1 Using a suitable clamp (such as a large
C-clamp) compress one of the U-bolts,
then install it on one side of the axle. Do
the same for the second U-bolt.
5.2 Install the U-bolt nuts and washers.
Tighten the nuts finger-tight.
5.3 Repeat the procedure on the other side of
the axle.
6. Tighten the U-bolt nuts.
For 3/4–16 U-bolt nuts: In a diagonal pattern,
tighten the U-bolt nuts successively 80 lbf·ft (108
N·m), 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m), then 300 lbf·ft (406
N·m).
For 7/8–16 U-bolt nuts: In a diagonal pattern,
tighten the U-bolt nuts successively 60 lbf·ft (81
N·m), 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m), then 460 lbf·ft (624
N·m).
7. Install the brake spider, cam, and brake shoes.
See Group 42 for instructions.
8. If so equipped, install the ABS sensors in the
axle knuckles.
9. Connect the air lines to the brake chambers.
10. Connect the drag link to the steering arm. See
Group 46 for instructions.
11. Install the tires.
12. If it was removed, install the bumper. See
Group 31 for instructions.
13. Raise the vehicle, then remove the safety
stands.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Do complete alignment procedures, including
caster, camber, wheel toe-in, and rear axle align-
ment. Refer to the applicable subjects in this
section for instructions. For rear axle alignment
procedures, refer to Section 35.00.
IMPORTANT: When aligning the front axle, it is NOTE: The alignment specifications below are
essential that the rear axle(s) be checked for for unloaded vehicles. These specifications will
correct alignment at the same time. Alignment of vary as weight is added to the vehicle and
the rear axle(s) has a direct impact on how the transferred to the front axle.
vehicle tracks. Refer to Section 35.00.
Caster
Bee Line
Axle Beissbarth: Hunter: Target, All Models:
Manufacturer degrees Except LC 4000: LC 4000: degrees degrees
degrees degrees
Meritor,
Freightliner, and +3 to +6-1/2 +3 to +6-1/2 +2-1/4 to +4-3/4 2 to 5 3.5 ± 1.5
Dana/Eaton
IMPORTANT: Caster settings for the left and right sides must be within 1/2 degree of each other. It is necessary for only
one side to be within the specifications given in this table.
Table 2, Caster
General Information
These vehicles are equipped with one of four differ-
ent wheel end assemblies:
• The Con Met PreSet® Hub
This wheel end has the bearings and oil seal
pre-installed in a hub. To install a new hub, 1
mount it on the axle spindle, and secure it with
2
an Axi-Lok® nut. For instructions, see Sub- 8
ject 150. A spacer between the inner and 3
outer bearings adjusts the bearings to near 4
zero end-play and preload when you tighten
the retaining nut. 5
• The Meritor Easy Steer Plus® Axle, Model
MFS–12–143D
6 7
This axle has the hubs, bearings, and oil seals
factory-installed on the axle spindles. The hubs
can be removed and installed on the axle, and
the studs can be replaced, but the wheel bear-
ings and oil seal are not serviceable in the
field. To install a new hub, mount it on the axle
spindle, and secure it. For instructions, see
Subject 140.
• The traditional hub and bearings
06/20/95 f350133
With traditional wheel ends, the bearings and
1. Disc Wheel 5. Hub Cap
oil seal must be assembled with the hub when 2. Wheel Nut 6. Outer Wheel Bearing
the hub is installed on the axle spindle. First 3. Wheel Stud 7. Inner Wheel Bearing
the oil seal is placed on the spindle (some 4. Hub 8. Brake Drum
brands of oil seal are installed in the hub
bore), then the inner bearing and the hub are Fig. 1, Wheel Assembly (cutaway view)
mounted on the axle spindle. Then, the outer
bearing is mounted in the hub bore. A nut is Tapered Wheel Bearings
installed on the axle spindle end and tightened A traditional tapered wheel bearing assembly con-
and loosened to adjust the bearings. Finally, a sists of a cone, tapered rollers, a roller cage, and a
locking device and jam nut are installed to se- separate cup that is press-fit in the hub. See Fig. 2.
cure the hub and bearings on the axle. For All components carry the load, with the exception of
instructions, see Subject 130. the cage, which spaces the rollers around the cone.
All wheel hub assemblies consist of the following Each hub has a set of inner and outer tapered wheel
components (see Fig. 1): bearing assemblies. On traditional hub and bearing
• Wheel Bearings assemblies, the bearing setting is locked in place on
the axle spindle (steering knuckle) by an adjusting
• Wheel Hub nut, a locking device such as a lockring or nut-lock,
• Wheel Studs and a jam nut, or a Pro-Torq nut. See Fig. 3.
• Brake Drum
Wheel Hub
The wheel and the brake drum are mounted on an
aluminum or iron wheel hub. See Fig. 4.
4
03/22/94 f350056a
1. Cup 3. Cone
2. Tapered Roller 4. Roller Cage
Wheel Studs
A headed wheel stud is used on front axle disc wheel
hub assemblies and has either serrations on the stud
body or a flat area on the stud’s head to prevent the
stud from turning in the wheel hub. See Fig. 5.
The end of the stud that faces away from the vehicle
is stamped with an "L" or "R," depending on which
side of the vehicle the stud is installed. Studs
stamped with an "L" are left-hand threaded and are
installed on the left side of the vehicle. Studs
stamped with an "R" are right-hand threaded and are
installed on the right side of the vehicle.
Brake Drum
The brake drum and lining work together as a mated
friction pair, with the drum responsible for both heat
absorption and dissipation. Lining performance and
life largely depend on the condition of the drum and
whether it can adequately absorb and dissipate heat
generated by braking action.
The brake drum is mounted on the outboard face of
the hub and fits over the wheel studs. See Fig. 3.
1 2 3 4
15 16
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14
17 18
08/29/2001 f330180
NOTE: On Meritor FF-981 Easy Steer Plus axles, the hub, wheel bearings, studs, and oil seal are assembled at Meritor
and installed as an assembly.
A. Four-piece bearing system shown; Axi-Lok locking nuts are used with Con Met PreSet hubs
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 8. Jam Nut 14. Bearing Spacer (used only with
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 9. Nut-Lock Con Met PreSet hubs)
3. Oil Seal 10. Lockring 15. Wheel Nut
4. Axle Spindle 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Wheel Stud
5. Hub Cap Capscrew 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Brake Drum
6. Hub Cap 13. Outer Bearing Cup 18. Hub
7. Gasket
08/26/94 f330018a
2
02/22/94 f350055a
1. Serrations
2. Clipped Head
Removal NOTICE
1. Chock the rear tires. Be careful not to let the outer wheel bearing drop
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear from the axle spindle. Dropping the bearing can
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle. warp the cage or damage the rollers, ruining the
bearing. On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS,
use care when working with the hubs. To prevent
WARNING damage to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub,
or lay it down in a way that would damage the
Never work under a vehicle that is supported
tone wheel.
only by a jack. Jacks can slip, causing the ve-
hicle to fall. This could result in a person being 7.1 If working with a traditional dual-nut hub
pinned under or crushed by the vehicle, causing and bearing assembly, move the hub
severe personal injury or death. Always use about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to jar loose the
safety stands to support the vehicle. outer wheel bearing (allow the hub-only
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the front assembly to rest on the axle spindle; be
axle brake shoes. careful not to damage the axle spindle
threads).
4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See
Group 40 for instructions. 7.2 Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing;
handle the bearings with clean, dry hands.
Wrap the bearings in either clean oil-proof
WARNING paper or lint-free rags.
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis- NOTICE
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res- Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes, rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- bearings as carefully as new ones.
ing through assembly. 7.3 Remove the hub from the axle spindle. Be
5. Remove the brake drum. For instructions, see careful not to damage the axle spindle
Subject 160. threads as the assembly is removed.
NOTE: Oil will spill as the hub cap and wheel 7.4 Remove the inner wheel bearing from the
hub are removed. Place a suitable container axle; handle the bearings with clean, dry
under the axle spindle to catch any spilled oil, hands. Wrap the bearings in clean, oil-
proof paper or lint-free rags. Occasionally,
and avoid contaminating the brake shoes with the inner wheel bearing will remain in the
oil. Dispose of the oil properly. hub after the hub is removed. In those
6. Remove the capscrews, washers, and hub cap. cases, place a protective cushion where it
Remove and discard the hub cap gasket. See will catch the bearings. Use a hardwood
Fig. 1. drift and a light hammer to gently tap the
bearing (and seal, if necessary) out of the
7. If working with ConMet PreSet® or Meritor Easy
cup.
Steer Plus® hubs, remove the nut(s) and locking
device, then remove the wheel end (hub, bear- 7.5 Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle,
ings, and oil seal) as a unit. if not already removed. See Sec-
tion 33.02 for additional information.
If working with a traditional dual-nut hub and
bearing assembly, remove the jam nut, locking
device(s), and adjusting nut. See Fig. 1.
1 2 3 4
15 16
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14
17 18
08/29/2001 f330180
NOTE: On some axles, the hub, wheel bearings, studs, and oil seal are installed as a unitized wheel-end assembly.
These wheel ends must be replaced as a unit.
A. Dual-nut bearing lock system shown; Axilok® locking nuts are used with ConMet PreSet® hubs.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 8. Jam Nut 14. Bearing Spacer (used only with
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 9. Nut-Lock ConMet PreSet hubs)
3. Oil Seal 10. Lockring 15. Wheel Nut
4. Axle Spindle 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Wheel Stud
5. Hub Cap Capscrew 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Brake Drum
6. Hub Cap 13. Outer Bearing Cup 18. Hub
7. Gasket
Installation NOTICE
1. Remove the old oil from the axle spindle (steer- Make sure that both bearing assemblies are
ing knuckle) and the disassembled parts. Follow coated with fresh oil. Use only fresh oil on the
the solvent manufacturer’s warnings and cau- bearing assemblies; old oil could be contami-
tions when using it. Allow the parts to dry or dry nated with dirt or water (both are corrosive) and
them with a clean, absorbent, and lint-free cloth could cause damage to both wheel bearing as-
or paper. Wrap a protective layer of friction tape semblies and the wheel hub.
on the axle spindle threads.
3. If working with traditional dual-nut hub and bear-
2. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum ing assemblies, coat both bearing assemblies
hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces with fresh oil. Install the inner wheel bearings
with Alumilastic® compound or an equivalent. and oil seal. Handle the bearings with clean, dry
hands. See Section 33.02 for oil seal installation
instructions.
4. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre- above exist could result in the loss of a wheel or
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel loss of vehicle control, and possible personal in-
bearing. jury.
10. Install the wheel and tire assembly. See
NOTICE Group 40 for instructions.
On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS, use 11. Adjust the front axle brakes. For instructions, see
care when installing the hubs. To prevent dam- the applicable service brake section in
age to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub or lay Group 42.
it down in a way that would damage the tone 12. Raise the vehicle and remove the safety stands
wheel. from under the axle. Lower the vehicle.
5. Mount the hub assembly on the axle spindle. 13. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
6. Adjust the wheel bearings according to the in-
structions in the applicable wheel bearing subject
in this section.
For traditional dual-nut hub and bearing assem-
blies, see Subject 130.
For ConMet PreSet hubs, see Subject 150.
For Meritor Easy Steer Plus axle ends, see Sub-
ject 140.
7. Place the hub cap and a new gasket in position,
then install the washers and capscrews. Tighten
the capscrews 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
8. If applicable, add fresh oil to the wheel hub to
the level indicated on the hub cap. For the rec-
ommended axle lubricants, see Specifica-
tions 400.
WARNING
Failure to add oil to the wheel hub after the hub
has been serviced will cause the wheel bearings
to overheat and seize during vehicle operation.
Seized bearing rollers can cause sudden damage
to the tire or axle, possibly resulting in personal
injury.
9. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub. For in-
structions, see Subject 160.
WARNING
If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
torque values, the wheel studs have lost their
locking action, and the wheel hub flange is prob-
ably damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the wheel
hub assembly when the conditions described
04/14/94 1 f330020a
1. Cracked Stud Grooves
1
1
2
04/14/94 1 f330019a
1. Wear Spots
2. Remove all of the old oil from the wheel hub cav-
ity. Inspect the inner surface of the hub for
04/14/94 f330006a
cracks, dents, wear, or other damage. Replace
the wheel hub if damage exists. 1. Cup
2. Cone
3. Remove all the old grease or oil from the sur-
faces of the wheel bearing cups. Inspect the Fig. 3, Spalling (Flaking) of Wheel Bearing Assembly
wheel bearing cups for cracks, wear, spalling, or
flaking. See Fig. 3. Replace the cups if damaged tions. Damaged nuts (Fig. 4), usually caused by
in any way. For instructions, see Subject 120. inadequate tightening, must be replaced with
4. Inspect the wheel nuts on disc wheel installa- new ones.
tions, or the rim nuts on spoke-wheel installa-
04/14/94 f230017a
CAUTION
Do not spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt
or grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
premature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a
used bearing as carefully as a new one. 04/14/94 f330087a
4. After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the as- Fig. 6, Indentations, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing
semblies, which include the rollers, cones, cups, Surfaces
and cages. If any of the following conditions
exist, replace the bearing assemblies: 4.3 Bright rubbing marks on the dark phos-
phate surfaces of the bearing cage. See
4.1 Large ends of rollers worn flush to the re- Fig. 7.
cess, or radii at the large ends of the roll-
4.4 Water etch on any bearing surface. Water
etch appears as gray or black stains on
1
12/07/94 f330013a
1. Maximum Diameter Stamp
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew same-axle drums.
the drum by using 80-grit emery cloth or by turn- 6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
ing the drums. any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature the drum.
differential in the drum wall between a relatively 7. Check for hard, slightly raised dark-colored spots
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat on the inner friction surface or for a bluish cast
checking is normal on all drums and may not on the brake parts, both of which are caused by
impair performance and lining life if the network high temperatures. If the drums’ maximum allow-
of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine able diameters have not been exceeded, rema-
heat checks of drums frequently to be certain the chine both same-axle drums. If the spots or dis-
checks have not widened into drum weakening coloration cannot be removed, or if remachining
cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open is not possible, replace the drums. Also replace
edge of the drum). Replace the same-axle drums the brake shoe return springs.
if substantial cracks are present, or if widening of
the fine hairline cracks occurs.
NOTE: If normal heat checking as described
above is present, inspect the drums at least
every 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. In-
spect the drums (using a flashlight from the in-
board side of the wheels) every 6000 miles
(9700 km). Inspect more often under adverse
operating conditions.
3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
of the contamination. If the brake drums are con-
taminated with fluids, the brake linings will also
be affected. Since oil or grease saturated linings
cannot be salvaged, they must be replaced. For
brake lining replacement procedures, see
Group 42.
WARNING
If the brake drums are contaminated with fluids,
replace the brake linings. Failure to replace fluid
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity, which could lead to
personal injury or property damage.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
and linings.
5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
(0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
Removal
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed
and installed by driving them out and pressing them
in without heating the hub.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
2. Using a mild-steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
Installation
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
3. Coat the replacement bearing cup hub contact
surface with a film of grease.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable driving tool. Cups must
seat against the shoulder in the hub.
5. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
Torque Values
Retention Method Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Target: 175 (235)
1-1/8
Permissible Range: 150–225 (205–305)
Jam Nut (with Wheel Bearing Nut, Pierced Target: 250 (340)
1-1/2 to 2-1/2
Lockwasher, or Bendable Lockwasher) Permissible Range: 200–300 (270–405)
Target: 310 (420)
2-5/8 or Larger
Permissible Range: 250–400 (340–540)
Table 1, Torque Values
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear- You cannot accurately adjust or measure
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub. bearing end play with the wheel mounted on
the hub.
5.1 Attach a dial indicator to the hub and set End play should be between 0.001 and
the point of the indicator in line with the 0.005 inch (0.03 to 0.13 mm).
end of the axle spindle.
If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
install the brake drum on the hub to pro-
vide a steel base for the magnet of the
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
have someone apply the brakes, to hold
the drum securely, while you secure the
drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock
and 8 o’clock positions.
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a
steel drum, install 1-1/4 inch washers be-
tween the nuts and the drum.
5.2 Release the brakes, if you used them to
hold the drum for installation.
5.3 Grip the sides of the hub at the three
o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Push in
on the hub (and drum, if applicable), to
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial
indicator.
5.4 Once again, grip the sides of the hub at
the three o’clock and nine o’clock posi-
tions. This time, pull out on the hub (and
drum, if applicable). Read the dial indica-
tor, and note the end play.
5.5 Push the hub back in to confirm that the
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero.
6. The end play must be between 0.001 and 0.005
inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play is not
within this range, adjust the end play.
6.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
6.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
described earlier, and measure the end
play. If the end play is not between 0.001
and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
the adjusting nut again.
6.3 Once the end play is correct, bend two
tabs of the nut-lock over opposing flats on
the jam nut.
6.4 Rotate the hub in both directions. It should
turn freely with no dragging or binding.
General Information 1
ConMet PreSet steer axle hubs are equipped with a
2
special tubular spacer inside the hub, between the
inner and outer bearings. See Fig. 1.
Wheel bearing adjustment is unnecessary when in-
stalling these hubs, because the spacer, together
with specially toleranced bearings, automatically sets P8
74005
N
the bearing end-play. Front axle PreSet hubs can be
CANA
identified by the part number NP874005 stamped on
N
KE
the outer bearing cone. The outer bearing cone is TIM
A
D
3
1
10/22/96 f330138
2
1. Front Axle Hub
2. Outer Bearing Cone and Part Number
3. Axle Spindle
NOTICE
Do not use the bearing spacer with standard
wheel bearings. To do so may result in too much
bearing end-play, which could damage the wheel
6 bearings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub.
ConMet PreSet hubs use Axilok® retaining nuts. See
4 Fig. 3 and Fig. 4. Axilok retaining nuts can be dam-
11/04/96
5 f330139 aged if they are not removed or installed correctly.
1. Hub 4. Outer Bearing Use the following guidelines when removing and in-
2. Inner Bearing 5. Axilok Retaining Nut stalling Axilok retaining nuts.
3. Bearing Spacer 6. Axle Spindle • Use only the correct size, six-point socket to
remove or install Axilok retaining nuts. Do not
Fig. 1, ConMet PreSet Hub, Cut-Away View use a worn or loose-fitting socket. Do not use
NOTE: If you are replacing the bearings for a a 12-point socket.
PreSet hub, and the required bearings are not • Do not use hammers, chisels, pliers, wrenches,
available, use standard wheel bearings. Re- or power tools to remove or install Axilok nuts.
move the bearing spacer and adjust the bear- • Do not use an Axilok nut if the locking clips are
ings manually. See the installation instructions damaged or missing, or if the retainer cage tab
for "Standard Bearings," under "Installation." or D-flat is damaged or missing.
• Never try to repair a damaged Axilok nut; al-
ways replace it with a new one.
• Always start an Axilok installation by hand. A
good-fitting six-point socket will completely dis-
3 3
1 1
2 2
1 1
A
A
09/09/98 f330156
06/20/95 f330126 A. This retainer tab must engage the keyway of the
A. The flat side of the retainer must engage the flat axle spindle.
side of the axle spindle. 1. Locking Clip
1. Locking Clip 2. Nut
2. Nut 3. Retainer Cage
3. Retainer
Fig. 4, Axilok Retaining Nut, Eaton Front Axle
Fig. 3, Axilok Retaining Nut, Meritor Front Axle
Installation
engage the nut’s locking clips, allowing it to
spin freely by hand. See Fig. 5. Use an accu-
rately calibrated torque wrench to tighten the
Using Preset Bearings
nut to its final torque value. 1. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
• After the nut is installed, always make sure vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
that both locking clips are present and en- bearing.
gaged in the retainer cage. See Fig. 5. If the 2. If present, remove the temporary plastic bearing
locking clips are not engaged, the nut is not cover from the front of the hub.
locked in position and can rotate freely.
3. Install the PreSet hub assembly all the way onto
the axle spindle. A temporary plastic alignment
4
6. Install the hub cap, using a new gasket. Tighten
the capscrews 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
WARNING
B C 6
4 Failure to add oil to the wheel hub after the hub
1 1 has been serviced will cause the wheel bearings
to overheat and seize during vehicle operation.
Seized bearing rollers can cause sudden damage
to the tire or axle, possibly resulting in personal
5 injury.
08/27/98
A f330155 7. Fill the hub with fresh oil to the level shown on
A. Cross-Section View the hub cap. Do not overfill.
B. The tab is engaged.
C. The tab is disengaged. Using Standard Bearings
1. Retainer Cage 5. Locking Clip
2. Locking Clip Tab (compressed)
NOTE: Save the spacer for use when convert-
3. Nut 6. Six-Point Socket ing the hub back to the PreSet system.
4. Locking Clip
NOTICE
Fig. 5, Axilok Nut, Checking the Position of the
Locking Clip Do not use the spacer with standard wheel bear-
ings. To do so may result in too much bearing
sleeve may be installed in the center of a new end-play, which could damage the wheel bear-
hub. It will be pushed out when the hub is in- ings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub.
stalled on the axle spindle. If it is present, re- 1. If not already done, remove the tubular spacer
move and discard this sleeve. from inside the hub. Save it for future use to con-
vert the hub back to the PreSet system.
NOTICE 2. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
Do not remove the outer wheel bearing once the vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
hub is installed on the axle. Removing the outer bearing.
bearing could cause the oil seal to become mis- 3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil. In-
aligned, which could cause damage to the wheel stall the inner wheel bearing and oil seal in the
bearings, the hub, and the axle spindle. hub. See Section 33.02 for instructions on in-
stalling the various types of oil seals.
WARNING 4. Install the hub with the inner bearing and oil seal
Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this onto the axle spindle. Be careful not to unseat
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re- the inner bearing or oil seal.
taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the 5. Fill the hub cavity with oil, and install the outer
axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed, wheel bearing.
the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
severe personal injury or death.
1. Chock the rear tires to prevent vehicle move- 2. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub. See
ment. Apply the parking brakes. Fig. 1.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear 2.1 On hub-piloted drums, position the brake
the ground. Then place safety stands under the drum on the top step of the pilot pad. One
axle. of the hub’s pilot pads should be at the 12
o’clock (top center) position. See Fig. 2.
WARNING IMPORTANT: If the drum is not positioned
correctly, the pilot pad could be damaged
Never work under a vehicle that is supported when the wheel nuts are torqued.
only by a jack. Jacks can slip, causing the ve-
hicle to fall. This could result in a person being 2.2 Make sure that the pilot pads securely
pinned under or crushed by the vehicle, causing center the drum (space between drum and
severe personal injury or death. Always use hub is equal all around the hub).
safety stands to support a vehicle.
IMPORTANT: If damage to the pads pre-
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the front vents the drum from centering, replace the
axle brake shoes. hub. If necessary to hold the drum in posi-
tion, adjust the brakes before installing the
WARNING wheels.
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non- 3. Install the wheel and tire assembly. To ensure
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis- that the drum does not slip off the pilot pad, fol-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure low the proper nut tightening sequence. For in-
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res- structions, see Group 40.
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
1 2 3 4
15 16
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14
17 18
08/29/2001 f330180
NOTE: On Meritor FF-981 Easy Steer Plus axles, the hub, wheel bearings, studs, and oil seal are assembled at Meritor
and installed as an assembly.
A. Four-piece bearing system shown. Axi-Lok locking nuts are used for Con Met PreSet® hubs.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 8. Jam Nut 14. Bearing Spacer (used only with
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 9. Nut-Lock Con-Met PreSet hubs)
3. Oil Seal 10. Lockring 15. Wheel Nut
4. Axle Spindle 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Wheel Stud
5. Hub Cap Capscrew 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Brake Drum
6. Hub Cap 13. Outer Bearing Cup 18. Hub
7. Gasket
05/03/94 f350125
CAUTION
A If headed studs with serrations are being in-
stalled, position the teeth of the serrated portion
in the notches carved by the original wheel studs
during factory installation. If additional metal is
scraped from the wheel stud bores, the locking
action provided by the serrations will be greatly
weakened. Loss of locking action will prevent
achieving final torque of the wheel nuts during
wheel installation. If final wheel nut torques dur-
ing wheel installation cannot be achieved, re-
place the wheel hub assembly.
NOTE: If the left side of the vehicle is being ser-
08/26/94 f330010a
viced, the replacement wheel stud must be
A. Replace stamped with an "L" (left-hand threaded), and
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement the nut’s face must be stamped "Left" If the right
side of the vehicle is being serviced, the re-
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in- placement stud must be stamped with an "R"
structions, see Subject 100. (right-hand threaded), and the nut’s face must
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass be stamped "Right." See Fig. 2.
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por-
7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
tion before removing the wheel stud.
the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make
8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
sure the hub flange is supported evenly around
head (flange) is not embedded into the hub. If
and next to the stud being removed. With steady
the head of the stud is embedded into the hub,
movement, press the damaged stud out of the
replace the hub.
hub.
CAUTION WARNING
Do not use a drift and hammer or concentrated Don’t embed the wheel stud heads in the wheel
heat for removing and installing the wheel studs. hub. Wheel studs with heads embedded in the
Constant, smooth movement of the wheel stud is wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
Weakness in the wheel hub can result in the loss
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Possible Cause Remedy
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil.
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings, following the applicable instructions in this section.
bearings is causing noise and wear.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller, or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications 400.
during installation.
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
Dirt or grease has built up on the brake Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
linings (glazing), or the brake linings have replace the drums.
worn excessively.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Problem — Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
Problem — Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake linings are not a matched set. Install a new matched set of brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
Different friction codes or different brands Clean, turn, or replace the drums.
of brake linings are installed.
The inside surface of the brake drum is in Turn or replace the drums.
poor condition.
The wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Adjust the wheel bearings following the applicable instructions in this section.
Problem — Steering Wheel Spokes Do Not Point at the 3 and 9 O’clock Positions
Problem — Steering Wheel Spokes Do Not Point at the 3 and 9 O’clock Positions
Possible Cause Remedy
The steering gear is not centered. Center the steering gear.
If adjustable, the drag link is out of Adjust the drag link.
adjustment.
The steering wheel was not installed Reposition the steering wheel on the steering column.
(positioned) correctly on the steering
column.
The pitman arm is not correctly aligned Reposition the pitman arm on the steering gear output shaft. For instructions,
with the timing mark on the steering gear see Group 46.
output shaft.
Jam Nut (with Wheel Bearing Nut, Pierced 1-1/2 to Target: 250 (340)
Lockwasher, and Bendable Lockwasher) 2-1/2 Permissible Range: 200–300 (270–405)
2-5/8 or Target: 325 (440)
Larger Permissible Range: 250–400 (340–540)
Table 1, Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing Lock Torque Values
Chicago Rawhide
The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal is a unitized, one-
piece design consisting of a sealing element (pack-
05/19/95 f330100a ing) that is assembled between metal outer and inner
1. Wheel Oil Seal cups. See Fig. 2. The sealing element consists of
2. Axle Spindle three sealing lips; a spring-loaded primary sealing lip
3. Wheel Hub Bore that is factory pre-lubed and two dirt exclusion lips.
The seal is press fit into the hub bore using Scotseal
Fig. 1, Spindle-Mounted Wheel Oil Seal (typical) service installation tools. Do not install the Scotseal
directly onto the axle spindle.
Most wheel oil seals consist of four basic parts
(Fig. 2): Although you install the Scotseal into the hub bore,
the seal’s element grips the axle spindle tightly
• The outside edge (also called the outer "cup" enough that the sealing element stays stationary with
or "case") the spindle and seals against the outer cup which
• The inside edge (also called the inner "cup" or turns with the hub.
"case") The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal maintains a metal-to-
• The sealing element metal contact between the outer cup and the hub
bore surface as well as a metal-to-metal contact be-
• The garter spring
tween the sealing element inside edge and the axle
The outside edge is usually metal coated with rubber spindle.
or another sealing agent so that it grips the hub bore
1
A 2
3
4
5
8
B
6
05/19/95 f330011a
A. Detail A B. Oil Seal (See detail A)
1. Bore-Tite® Coating 4. Outer Cup 7. Bumper Lip
2 Primary Sealing Lip 5. Inner Cup 8. Hub
3. Dirt Lip 6. Sealing Element (Packing) 9. Hub Bore
Dana Spicer
The Dana Spicer Outrunner has a rubber-coated out-
side edge and is installed in the hub bore using
Dana Spicer installation tools. See Fig. 3.
1 2
03/27/95 f330117a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Chicago
Rawhide Scotseal®.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
08/08/94 f330096a
4. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. Fig. 2, Clean the Spindle
5. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. Clean any CAUTION
metal filings from the components.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
6. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
components as necessary.
7. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
8. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
9. Seat the small outside edge of the seal in the
recess of the tool adaptor. See Fig. 3. The cor-
rect adaptor is identified on the box.
11/30/94 f330021a
10. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of
NOTE: Rear hub shown. the inner bearing cone. See Fig. 4. The plug pre-
Fig. 1, Clean the Hub vents cocking of the seal in the bore.
11. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike it until the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms
09/27/2005 f330023a
11/30/94 f330022a
NOTE: Rear hub shown. NOTE: Rear hub shown.
Fig. 3, Place the Seal on the Installation Tool Fig. 4, Insert the Tool in the Hub Bore
out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid 16. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
bounce or unseating of the seal from the adap- 17. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
tor. instructions, see Group 42 of the Business Class
12. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for M2 Maintenance Manual.
freedom of movement by manually moving the
interior rubber part of the seal back and forth. A
slight movement indicates a damage-free instal-
lation.
13. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 33.01, Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
14. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·in (20 N·m).
15. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 6. Do not overfill.
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 6, Fill the Hub with Oil
09/27/2005 f330024a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Dana
Spicer Outrunner™ seal.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle,
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity. 11/30/94 f330021a
NOTE: Rear hub shown.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, Fig. 1, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore
metal filings, or other contaminants can
scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and
cause premature wear of the bearing as-
sembly.
4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
and contaminants from all recesses and
corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
filler. See Fig. 1.
4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
cloth.
4.3 After removing the hub, inspect the
spindle. Remove any sharp edges and
burrs from the leading edges and the
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
See Fig. 2.
4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a 08/08/94 f330096a
clean shop cloth.
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Axle Spindle
CAUTION rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
2 3 03/27/95 f330117
6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen- 8. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
tly. See Fig. 6. then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in- 9. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
stall than seals with metal outer circum- hubcap. See Fig. 7. Do not overfill.
ferences. When the adaptor plate bottoms
out on the hub surface, the seal is in-
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to-
metal sound.
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
5 6
4
1 2 3 3 7
02/18/2004 f330215
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
02/18/2004 f330214
1. Installation Handle 6. Inner Bearing
2. Adapter Plate 7. Hub
3. Oil Seal 8. Outer Bearing
4. Bearing Pilot 9. Centering Fixture
5. Hexnut, 3/4–10
General Information
Although these axles are a Freightliner proprietary
product, they may be referred to in some applications
as "MB components."
Freightliner front axles have a unique steering
knuckle design that reduces vibration and wear. Low-
friction and high-strength needle bearings roll on a
large diameter kingpin, replacing the conventional
bushings.
They are compatible with all standard industry model
brakes, hubs, and wheel bearings.
Use the procedures in Subject 100 to remove and
install the axle, and in Subject 110 to disassemble
and assemble the steering knuckle.
There are three basic models for the Freightliner
front axle: Model 2, Model 3, and Model 5. The basic
model is indicated by the numbers on the axle’s
identification tag.
The following explains a typical model number.
Typical Model Number: AF-12-3.
• AF = front axle
• 12 = Weight Rating (times 1000 lb)
• 3 = Model Number
16 17
15
14
13
12 21
18
22
18 19
20
11
10
9
22
3
7
2
24
6
25 23
5
4
26
27
06/08/2011 f330211a
NOTE: The number of upper and lower needle bearing sets may vary, depending on the axle model.
1. Tie-Rod Ball Joint 9. Lower Draw Key Nut 18. Shim
2. Castle Nut 10. Upper Draw Key 19. Upper Draw Key Nut
3. Cotter Pin 11. Grease Seal 20. Lower Draw Key
4. Lower Grease Fitting 12. Steering Knuckle 21. Steering Arm
5. Lower Snap Ring 13. Upper Needle Bearing (may be 22. Steering Arm Capscrew
6. Lower Cover Plate one or two sets) 23. Axle Beam
7. Lower Needle Bearings (may be 14. Upper Cover Plate 24. Tie-Rod Arm Capscrews
one or two sets) 15. Upper Snap Ring 25. Tie-Rod Arm
8. Thrust Friction Bearing (thrust 16. Upper Grease Fitting 26. Tie-Rod Clamp
roller bearing on the passenger 17. Kingpin 27. Tie-Rod Tube
side)
1. Clean the steering knuckle bores and the axle If any bores show significant damage, replace
beam bores. Check for damage such as the component.
grooves, scratches, and pitting.
2. Install the grease seal — with the grooved side 6. Install the kingpin fully into the steering knuckle
down (toward the road) — into the top of the bores, making sure the flats on the kingpin are
upper steering knuckle bore. Carefully drive the still aligned with the draw-key holes in the axle
seal down into the bore until the outer edge of beam.
the seal is flush with the bottom edge of the 7. Install new upper and lower draw keys and nuts.
bore. Make sure the seal is not cocked. See Fig. 1.
3. Install new needle bearings into the bores of one
7.1 Install the upper draw key from the back
of the steering knuckles. Install the same number
of the axle, and the lower one from the
of bearings as was removed.
front of the axle.
NOTE: Install the needle bearings just far
enough into the bores so that the cover plates IMPORTANT: Make sure the new draw keys
can be installed. are the same length as those removed. On
some axle models the lower draw key is
4. Install a new thrust friction bearing (driver’s side) longer than the upper one.
or thrust roller bearing (passenger’s side) into the
top of the lower steering knuckle bore. Install the 7.2 Tighten the draw-key nuts 30 to 55 lbf·ft
thrust friction bearing (or thrust roller bearing) (40 to 75 N·m).
with the sealed side up. 8. Install new grease fittings and cover plates.
NOTE: The thrust friction bearing has a protrud- 8.1 Install the new upper cover plate (with a
ing lip at the top. The thrust roller bearing has new O-ring) and the snap ring. Install the
no such protruding lip. new grease fitting into the cover plate.
5. Partially install the steering knuckle on the axle 8.2 Install the new lower cover plate (with a
beam. new O-ring) and the snap ring. Install the
5.1 Making sure the flats on the kingpin are new grease fitting into the cover plate.
aligned with the draw-key holes in the axle 9. Install the steering arm. Apply Loctite® 277 to the
beam, put the new kingpin into the top threads and tighten the steering arm capscrews:
bore of the steering knuckle. Note that the if M20 capscrews are used, tighten them 425
top of the new kingpin is clearly marked. lbf·ft (575 N·m); if M24 capscrews are used,
Push the kingpin through the axle beam tighten them 664 lbf·ft (900 N·m).
bore until the upper end of the kingpin is
10. Attach the tie-rod arm to the steering knuckle.
flush with the upper surface of the axle
Apply Loctite® 277 to the threads and tighten the
beam bore.
tie-rod arm capscrews: if M20 capscrews are
5.2 Align the steering knuckle with the axle used, tighten them 425 lbf·ft (575 N·m); if M24
beam, then check the clearance between capscrews are used, tighten them 664 lbf·ft (900
the axle beam bore and the upper steer- N·m).
ing knuckle bore. Clearance is to be a 11. If applicable, repeat the entire procedure for the
maximum of 0.003 inch (0.08 mm). other side of the axle assembly.
IMPORTANT: To correctly check the clear- 12. Attach the tie-rod arm to the tie rod. Tighten the
ance, the thrust friction or thrust roller bear- castle nut 120 to 170 lbf·ft (163 to 230 N·m) plus
ing must be installed correctly, and upward a maximum of one-sixth of a turn to align a slot
pressure must be applied to the steering in the castle nut with the cotter pin hole in the tie
knuckle. rod stud. Insert the cotter pin and bend the tangs
to secure it.
5.3 If needed, install sufficient spacers to re-
duce the clearance to 0.002 to 0.003 inch 13. If removed, install the axle.
(0.05 to 0.08 mm). 14. If removed, connect the drag link to the steering
arm.
Torque Values
Application Size Class Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Air Bag-to-Leaf Spring Nuts — — 220 (298)
Draw-Key Nuts — — 30–55 (40–75)
Steering Arm Capscrews M20 x 1.5 10.9 480 (650)
Sway Bar Fasteners — — 100 (136)
Tie-Rod Arm Capscrews M20 x 1.5 10.9 480 (650)
Table 1, Torque Values
General Information
1
Rear axle alignment should be checked whenever
rear axle or suspension components are replaced. It
should also be checked when there is excessive
front and rear tire wear, or hard or erratic steering.
Manufacturers of axle alignment equipment offer a
variety of systems to precisely measure and correct 1
rear axle alignment. If this type of equipment is not
available, the basic tools needed for checking rear
axle alignment on tandem or single axles are a
straightedge (that is nonflexible and at least as long
as the axle), steel tape rule, and trammel bar or cen-
ter point bar.
The straightedge is used to see if a single axle, or a 07/27/94 f350007a
forward-rear axle of a tandem axle installation, is in
1. Adjustable Pointer
alignment with the frame. The distance from the
straightedge to the center of the wheel hub is mea-
Fig. 1, Center Point Bar
sured on each side of the vehicle; any difference in
the measurements means that the axle is out of
alignment.
A center point bar (Fig. 1) is used to see if the
forward-rear axle and rearmost axle of a tandem in-
stallation are aligned with each other (parallel). It has
adjustable pointers at each end, which are inserted
into the axle cap holes of each axle. By comparing
the distance between the two axles on one side to
the distance on the other side, it can be determined
if the axles are parallel.
Instructions and a list of materials for making a cen-
ter point bar are in Subject 130.
The following preliminary checks should be com- see Group 32 in this manual or the suspension
pleted before checking any alignment measurements. manufacturer’s service literature. Sagging, fa-
tigued, or broken suspension springs create a
lopsided vehicle appearance and an unbalanced
Preliminary Checks weight distribution. Anything that changes the
ratio of weight on the springs affects the align-
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- ment angles and also the tire tread contact area.
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- Replace damaged springs as instructed in the
tion. Relieve internal stresses in the suspension applicable suspension section.
by driving the vehicle back and forth in a
6. Check and, if necessary, correct frame rail align-
straight line. ment as instructed in Group 31 in this manual.
1. Wheel assemblies should be balanced, espe- 7. Check and, if necessary, adjust rear axle track-
cially for vehicles that travel at sustained speeds ing. For instructions, see Group 32 in this
of more than 50 mph (80 km/h). Off-balance manual or the suspension manufacturer’s service
wheel assemblies cause vibrations that result in literature.
severely shortened life for tires and suspension
parts. 8. Check the rear axle wheel bearings for wear and
incorrect adjustment. Refer to Section 35.01 for
2. Do not mix tires of different size, type, or weight. instructions.
Tire wear should be even and not worn to limits
exceeding government specifications. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual and Group 40 in the
Business Class® M2 Maintenance Manual for
more information. Replace any tire that is exces-
sively worn.
3. Check the inflation pressure of the tires. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual for recommended pres-
sures. An underinflated tire causes tread wear
completely around both tire shoulders. An overin-
flated tire causes tread wear in the center of the
tire. See Fig. 1.
A B
12/14/94 f330081a
A. Underinflation Wear B. Overinflation Wear
Checking Using Computerized first arc. See Fig. 2. The point where the two
arcs intersect and the original (or middle) point
Alignment Systems on the opposite frame rail have matching loca-
tions.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- 4. Line up the straightedge with the two matching
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- points. Check that the straightedge extends out
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must about the same distance on each side of the
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment frame rail. Using C-clamps, clamp the straight-
equipment must be calibrated every three edge to the frame; see Fig. 3. The straightedge
months by a qualified technician from the equip- must line up exactly with the points.
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must 5. Measuring from the outside edge of each frame
have proof of this calibration history. rail, mark the straightedge on both sides of the
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use of the frame. The marks (Fig. 3, Ref. A) must be of
alignment equipment, and use the alignment mea- equal distance from the frame and as far from
surements given in Fig. 1 and the applicable tables the frame rail as the tires are at their farthest
in Specifications 400. point from the frame.
IMPORTANT: The distance between the mark
Checking Using the Manual on the straightedge and the frame rail must be
equal on both sides of the vehicle.
Method
6. On each side of the vehicle, measure the dis-
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- tance from the mark on the straightedge to the
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- center of the wheel hub. See Fig. 3.
tion. The difference between these measurements
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Relieve inter- should be 1/4 inch (6 mm) or less. See Fig. 1. If
nal stresses in the suspension by driving the ve- the difference is more than 1/4 inch (6 mm), ad-
hicle back and forth in a straight line, or by jack- just the axle alignment. For instructions, see
ing the axle up and letting it down. Group 32 in this manual, or the suspension
manufacturer’s service literature.
2. Chock the front tires and place the transmission
in neutral. Release the parking brakes.
NOTICE
Do not use scribe lines for marking on frame
rails. Scribe lines, which cut or scratch the metal,
can develop into starting points for structural
damage to the frame.
3. Select a point on the frame rail forward of the
rear axle, and mark it using a pencil or soap-
stone. Then mark two other points, exactly 4
inches (102 mm) forward and to the rear of the
original point. Make sure that all three marks are
aligned and of equal distance from the outside
edge of the frame rail. Using a center point or
trammel bar, place one pointer on the forward-
most point, and make an arc with a pencil or
soapstone on the opposite frame rail. Then place
the pointer on the rearmost point and make an
arc on the opposite frame rail intersecting the
C D
03/25/94 B f350110b
A
2
1 3
2 A
4
5
08/24/94 f350065a
A. Marks
1. Straightedge 4. Tape Measure
2. C-Clamps 5. Wheel Hub
01/14/94 f350077a 3. Matching Points
1. Center Point/Trammel Bar
2. Matching Points Fig. 3, Straightedge to Wheel Hub Measurement
A B A
11/02/2011 C f350111a
A. Axle Centerline
B. Left-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
C. Right-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
D. Maximum Tolerance as Measured with Hunter Alignment Tools = ±0.08 degree
E. Vehicle Centerline
11/02/2011 f350076a
Materials Required A
4"
sured inside) 2 4
• 20" of 3/8" steel rod
• two 1/2" x 3" pieces of steel square-bar stock 1" 4"
• one 4" x 4" steel plate, 1/8" thick
• two 3/8–16 capscrews (grade 5), 2" long 7 5
• two 3/8–16 hexnuts (equivalent to grade 5)
6
Construction
1. Cut the 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inch (inside measurement) 08/24/94 f350075a
square steel tube in half to obtain two pieces 6
A. Grind to a point.
inches long. These will be the sliding members
(slides) of the center point bar. 1. 3/8-Inch Diameter Rod
2. Weld
2. Cut the 4-inch by 4-inch steel plate diagonally 3. Gusset
into two pieces (gussets). Weld one gusset to 4. 1-Inch Square Steel Tube
each slide, as shown in Fig. 1. 5. 1–1/8 Inch Square Steel Tube
6. 3/8–16 Bolt
3. Cut the steel rod in half to obtain two 10-inch
7. 3/8–16 Nut
rods. Grind one end of each to form a point.
4. Weld the pointed steel rods to the slides and Fig. 1, Center Point Bar Construction
gussets, as shown in Fig. 1.
5. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the center of each slide,
on the side opposite where the pointer was
welded. Drill through only one side of the tube.
6. Directly over each hole drilled in the step above,
weld a 3/8–16 nut (equivalent to grade 5).
7. Weld a piece of steel stock, about 1/2-inch wide
by 3-inches long, over the head of each of two
3/8–16 by 2-inch long capscrews.
8. Place a slide over each end of the 60-inch piece
of steel tube, with the pointed rods to the out-
side. Screw the handscrews (made in the step
above) into the slides until they are clamped
tightly to the cross tube.
08/29/94
B f350111b
General Information
These vehicles are equipped with one of two differ-
ent wheel end assemblies:
• The Con Met PreSet® hub
1 10
This wheel end has the bearings and oil seal
pre-installed in a hub. To install a new hub,
2
mount it on the axle spindle, and secure it with 3 9
an Axi-Lok® nut. For instructions, see Sub- 4
ject 150. A spacer between the inner and
outer bearings adjusts the bearings to near
zero end-play and preload when you tighten
the retaining nut. 8
• The traditional hub and bearings 5 6 7
A typical tapered wheel bearing assembly consists of The surfaces of the spindle and the nut threads are
a cone, tapered rollers, a roller cage, and a separate machined. When these surfaces become damaged,
cup that is press-fit in the hub. See Fig. 2. All com- repairs are necessary. There are standard methods
ponents carry the load, with the exception of the for performing those repairs that preserve the proper
cage, which spaces the rollers around the cone. alignment of the axle spindle assembly. Refer to the
axle manufacturer for instructions.
Each hub has a set of inner and outer tapered wheel
bearing assemblies. On traditional hub and bearing
assemblies, the bearing setting is locked in place on
CAUTION
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administra-
tion (NHTSA) has warned against repairs that in-
Wheel Hub
The inner disc wheel and/or brake drum is mounted
on an aluminum or iron wheel hub. See Fig. 3. Both
3 the inner and outer bearing cups and certain types of
wheel studs are press-fit in the hub. The hub is also
the interconnecting point for the drive axle shaft and
4 wheels.
03/22/94 f350056a
1. Cup 3. Cone
Brake Drum
2. Tapered Roller 4. Roller Cage The brake drum and lining work together as a mated
Fig. 2, Tapered Wheel Bearing Assembly friction pair, with the drum responsible for both heat
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 18
17
19 20
A 14
07/07/95 f350135
A. Four-piece bearing system shown; an Axi-Lok locking nut could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 8. Jam Nut 14. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 9. Nut-Lock 15. Hub Spacer
3. Oil Seal 10. Lockring 16. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 11. Adjusting Nut 17. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 18. Hub
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft 13. Bearing Spacer (used only with 19. Drive Axle Stud
7. Gasket Con-Met PreSet hubs) 20. Wheel Stud
Wheel Studs
A headed wheel stud is used on rear axle disc wheel
hub assemblies and has either serrations on the stud
body or a flat area on the stud’s head to prevent the
stud from turning in the wheel hub. See Fig. 4.
The end of the stud that faces away from the vehicle
is stamped with an "L" or "R," depending on which
side of the vehicle the stud is installed. Studs
stamped with an "L" are left-hand threaded and are
installed on the left side of the vehicle. Studs
stamped with an "R" are right-hand threaded and are
installed on the right side of the vehicle.
2
02/22/94 f350055a
1. Serrations 2. Clipped Head
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 18
17
19 20
A 14
07/07/95 f350135
A. Dual-nut wheel bearing lock system shown; an Axi-Lok® locking nut could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Nut-Lock 14. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 15. Hub Spacer
3. Oil Seal 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 13. Bearing Spacer (used only with 18. Hub
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft ConMet PreSet® hubs and 19. Drive Axle Stud
7. Gasket bearings) 20. Wheel Stud
8. Jam Nut
1
1
6 7
2 4 3
4
3
8 5
06/07/94 f350011a
04/14/94 1 f330020a
1. Cracked Stud Grooves
1 1
2
04/14/94 1 f330019a
1. Wear Spots
04/14/94 f230017a
CAUTION
Do not spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt
or grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
premature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a 04/14/94 f330087a
used bearing as carefully as a new one.
Fig. 6, Indentations, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing
4. After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the as- Surfaces
semblies, which include the rollers, cones, cups,
and cages. If any of the following conditions ex- 4.3 Bright rubbing marks on the dark phos-
ist, replace the bearing assemblies. phate surfaces of the bearing cage. See
Fig. 7.
4.1 Large ends of rollers worn flush to the
recess, or radii at the large ends of the 4.4 Water etch on any bearing surface. Water
etch appears as gray or black stains on
1
12/07/94 f330013a
1. Maximum Diameter Stamp
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew same-axle drums.
the drum by using 80-grit emery cloth or by turn-
6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
ing the drums.
any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature the drum.
differential in the drum wall between a relatively
7. Check for hard, slightly raised dark-colored spots
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat
on the inner friction surface or for a bluish cast
checking is normal on all drums and may not
on the brake parts, both of which are caused by
impair performance and lining life if the network
high temperatures. If the drums’ maximum allow-
of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine
able diameters have not been exceeded, rema-
heat checks of drums frequently to be certain the
chine both same-axle drums. If the spots or dis-
checks have not widened into drum weakening
coloration cannot be removed, or if remachining
cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open
is not possible, replace the drums. Also replace
edge of the drum). Replace the same-axle drums
the brake shoe return springs.
if substantial cracks are present, or if widening of
the fine hairline cracks occurs.
NOTE: If normal heat checking as described
above is present, inspect the drums at least ev-
ery 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. Inspect
the drums (using a flashlight from the inboard
side of the wheels) every 6000 miles (9700 km).
Inspect more often under adverse operating
conditions.
3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
of the contamination. If the brake drums are con-
taminated with fluids, the brake linings will also
be affected. Since oil or grease saturated linings
cannot be salvaged, they must be replaced. For
brake lining replacement procedures, see
Group 42.
WARNING
If the brake drums are contaminated with fluids,
replace the brake linings. Failure to replace fluid
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity, which could lead to
personal injury or property damage.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
and linings.
5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
(0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
Removal
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed
and installed by driving them out and pressing them
in without heating the hub.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
2. Using a mild-steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
Installation
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
3. Coat the replacement bearing cup hub contact
surface with a film of grease.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable driving tool. Cups must
seat against the shoulder in the hub.
WARNING
To prevent skin irritation, wear chemical resistant
gloves when working with diesel fuel or kero-
sene. Also, do not expose these fluids to flames
or heat exceeding 100°F (38°C); both are com-
bustible, and could cause personal injury or
property damage if ignited.
5. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
Replacement 7. If the hub was removed from the axle, see Sub-
ject 100 for installation instructions.
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in-
structions, see Subject 100.
2. If enough threads remain on the damaged stud,
remove it by double-nutting the stud. Turn the
inner nut with a wrench in order to remove the
stud. Then, proceed to the next step.
If the drive axle stud is broken near the surface
of the hub, the stud should be center-drilled us-
ing a high-speed drill, and then removed with an
easy-out tool. If needed, grind off a flat surface
on the damaged stud, then center-punch the sur-
face as a starting point for drilling. Follow these
recommendations:
2.1 Determine the correct drill diameter by
referring to the easy-out tool manufactur-
er’s guidelines. At no time should it be
large enough to penetrate the threads of
the stud; if the stud threads in the wheel
hub are damaged, replace the hub.
2.2 Do not drill more than 1.25 inches (32
mm) into the broken stud, as measured at
the stud’s entrance into the wheel hub.
Drilling through the bottom of the drive
axle stud could damage the hub. If the
wheel hub is drilled into, replace it.
2.3 While drilling, keep the cutting surfaces of
the drill well lubricated with oil, which acts
as a coolant. Allow the drill and drill bit to
cool frequently.
3. After the damaged stud is removed, tap out the
drive axle stud hole in the wheel to rid the
threads of old stud-locking compound. Use an
appropriate sized tap, depending on the original
drive axle stud installation size.
4. Be sure the threads of the new stud are clean
and dry. Then, coat the insertion end of the drive
axle stud (the coarse threads) with an anaerobic
thread-lock compound.
5. Using double nuts on the fine-thread portion of
the stud, install the new stud. Seat the drive axle
stud using the torque values in Specifica-
tions 400.
6. Allow sufficient time for the thread-lock com-
pound to set, as suggested by the manufacturer.
3.5 Back off the adjusting nut one-third turn. hole still doesn’t align with the dowel, loosen
4. Install the locking device and jam nut. the adjusting nut, but only enough to align
the dowel with a hole in the lockring.
4.1 Install the locking device.
4.2 Then install the jam nut, and tighten it to
NOTE: If no hole in the lockring aligns with the applicable torque value in Table 1.
the dowel on the adjusting nut, remove the
lockring, turn it over and install it again. If a
Jam Nut (with Wheel Bearing Nut, Pierced 1-1/2 to Target: 250 (340)
Lockwasher, and Bendable Lockwasher) 2-1/2 Permissible Range: 200–300 (270–405)
5. With the jam nut installed and tightened, adjust and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
the bearings. the adjusting nut again.
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear- 6.3 Once the end play is correct, bend two
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub. tabs of the nut-lock over opposing flats on
You cannot accurately adjust or measure the jam nut.
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on 6.4 Rotate the hub in both directions. It should
the hub. turn freely with no dragging or binding.
End play should be between 0.001 and
5.1 Attach a dial indicator to the hub and set
0.005 inch (0.03 to 0.13 mm).
the point of the indicator in line with the
end of the axle spindle.
If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
install the brake drum on the hub to pro-
vide a steel base for the magnet of the
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
have someone apply the brakes to hold
the drum securely while you secure the
drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock
and 8 o’clock positions.
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a
steel drum, install 1-1/4 inch washers be-
tween the nuts and the drum.
5.2 Release the brakes if you used them to
hold the drum while installing it.
5.3 Grip the sides of the hub at the three
o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Push in
on the hub (and drum, if applicable), to
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial
indicator.
5.4 Once again, grip the sides of the hub at
the three o’clock and nine o’clock posi-
tions. This time, pull out on the hub (and
drum, if applicable). Read the dial indica-
tor, and note the end play.
5.5 Push the hub back in to confirm that the
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero.
6. The end play must be between 0.001 and 0.005
inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play is not
within this range, adjust the end play.
6.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
6.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
described earlier, and measure the end
play. If the end play is not between 0.001
General Information 1
ConMet PreSet®
drive axle hubs are equipped with a
special tubular spacer inside the hub, between the 2
inner and outer bearings. See Fig. 1.
Wheel bearing adjustment is unnecessary when in-
stalling these hubs, because the spacer, together NP 84
03
with specially toleranced bearings, automatically sets 0
2
the bearing end-play to zero. Rear axle PreSet hubs
K EN
can be identified by the part number NP840302
TI M
stamped on the outer bearing cone. The outer bear-
C
AN
ing cone is visible when the retaining nut is removed. ADA
See Fig. 2.
10/23/96 f350157
2
1. Rear Axle Hub
2. Outer Bearing Cone and Part Number
CAUTION
Do not use the bearing spacer with standard
wheel bearings. To do so may result in too much
bearing end-play, which could damage the wheel
bearings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub.
6 ConMet PreSet hubs use Axilok® retaining nuts. See
Fig. 3. Axilok retaining nuts can be damaged if they
5 4 are not removed or installed correctly. Use the follow-
11/04/96 f330139 ing guidelines when removing and installing Axilok
NOTE: Front axle hub shown. retaining nuts.
1. Hub 4. Outer Bearing • Use only the correct size, six-point socket to
2. Inner Bearing 5. Axilok Retaining Nut remove or install Axilok spindle nuts. Do not
3. Bearing Spacer 6. Axle Spindle
use a worn or loose-fitting socket. Do not use
a 12-point socket.
Fig. 1, ConMet PreSet Hub (cut-away view)
• Do not use hammers, chisels, pliers, wrenches,
NOTE: If you are replacing the bearings for a or power tools to remove or install Axilok nuts.
PreSet hub, and the required bearings are not
• Do not use an Axilok nut if the locking clips are
available, use standard wheel bearings. Re- damaged or missing, or if the retainer cage tab
move the bearing spacer and adjust the bear- or D-flat is damaged or missing.
ings manually. See the installation instructions
for "Using Standard Bearings," under "Installa- • Never try to repair a damaged Axilok nut; al-
ways replace it with a new one.
tion and Adjustment."
• Always start an Axilok installation by hand. A
good-fitting six-point socket will completely dis-
CAUTION
Do not remove the outer wheel bearing once the
hub is installed on the axle. Removing the outer
bearing could cause the oil seal to become mis- A
aligned, which could cause damage to the wheel
bearings, the hub, and the axle spindle.
WARNING
Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re- 06/20/95 f350134
taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the A. The retainer tab must engage the keyway of the
axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed, axle spindle.
the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
severe personal injury or death. 1. Locking Clip
2. Nut
4. Install the Axilok retaining nut onto the axle 3. Retainer
spindle. See Fig. 3.
Fig. 3, Rear Axle Axilok Nut
5. Tighten the retaining nut 250 lbf·ft (339 N·m). Do
not back off the retaining nut. The nut should 6. Install the axle shaft, using a new gasket. See
lock in place when you remove the wrench. If it Subject 100 for instructions.
does not, advance it until it does.
B 4 C 6 CAUTION
1 1 Do not remove the outer wheel bearing once the
hub is installed on the axle. Removing the outer
bearing could cause the oil seal to become mis-
aligned, which could cause damage to the wheel
5 bearings, the hub, and the axle spindle.
08/27/98
A f330155
A. Cross-Section View WARNING
B. The tab is engaged. Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
C. The tab is disengaged.
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re-
1. Retainer Cage 5. Locking Clip taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the
2. Locking Clip Tab (compressed) axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed,
3. Nut 6. Six-Point Socket the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
4. Locking Clip severe personal injury or death.
Fig. 4, Axilok Nut, Checking the Position of the 6. Adjust the wheel bearings.
Locking Clip
6.1 Install the Axilok nut and turn it against the
bearing while spinning the wheel. See
WARNING Fig. 3.
Add oil to the axle housing bowl or the wheel 6.2 Tighten the nut 90 to 110 lbf·ft (122 to 149
hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel hub have N·m) while spinning the wheel in both di-
been serviced. Failure to add oil will damage the rections.
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during 6.3 Loosen the nut to zero torque and spin
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can the wheel a few turns.
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury. 6.4 Tighten the nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) while
spinning the wheel in both directions.
7. Pour the recommended drive axle oil through the
Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth
axle housing filler hole.
turn.
Using Standard Bearings 6.5 Remove the wrench from the nut. The Ax-
ilok nut should automatically lock in place.
1. If not already done, remove the tubular spacer If it does not, advance it until it does.
from inside the hub. Save it for future use to con-
vert the hub back to the PreSet system. 7. Install the axle shaft, using a new gasket. See
Subject 100 for instructions.
2. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
bearing.
WARNING
Add oil to the axle housing bowl or the wheel
hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel hub have
been serviced. Failure to add oil will damage the
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury.
8. Remove the fill plug from axle housing, then pour
the recommended drive axle oil through the axle
housing filler hole. Install the filler plug.
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 18
17
19 20
A 14
07/07/95 f350135
A. Four-piece bearing system shown; an Axi-Lok locking nut could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Nut-Lock 14. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 15. Hub Spacer
3. Oil Seal 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 13. Bearing Spacer (used only with 18. Hub
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft Con-Met integral wheel bearing 19. Drive Axle Stud
7. Gasket packs) 20. Wheel Stud
8. Jam Nut
05/03/94 f350125
WARNING
To prevent skin irritation, wear chemical-resistant
gloves when using kerosene or diesel fuel. Also,
do not expose these fluids to flames or heat ex-
ceeding 100°F (38°C); both are cumbustible and
could cause personal injury or property damage
if ignited.
8. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean, lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
A
CAUTION
If headed studs with serrations are being in-
stalled, position the teeth of the serrated portion
in the notches carved by the original wheel studs
during factory installation. If additional metal is
scraped from the wheel stud bores, the locking
action provided by the serrations will be greatly
weakened. Loss of locking action will prevent
achieving final torque of the wheel nuts during
wheel installation. If final wheel nut torques dur-
ing wheel installation cannot be achieved, re-
place the wheel hub assembly.
08/26/94 f330010a
NOTE: If the left side of the vehicle is being ser-
NOTE: Front hub shown. viced, the replacement wheel stud must be
A. Replace stamped with an "L" (left-hand threaded), and
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement the face of the nut must be stamped "Left." If
the right side of the vehicle is being serviced,
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in- the replacement stud must be stamped with an
structions, see Subject 100. "R" (right-hand threaded), and the face of the
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass nut must be stamped "Right." See Fig. 2.
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por- 7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
tion before removing the wheel stud. the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make 8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
sure the hub flange is supported evenly around head (flange) is not embedded into the hub. If
and next to the stud being removed. With steady the head of the stud is embedded into the hub,
movement, press the damaged stud out of the replace the hub.
hub.
CAUTION WARNING
Don’t embed the wheel stud heads in the wheel
Do not use a drift and hammer or concentrated
hub. Wheel studs with heads embedded in the
heat for removing and installing the wheel studs.
wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Possible Cause Remedy
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
Specifications 400.
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 140 or
bearings is causing noise and wear. Subject 150.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications 400.
during installation.
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked, Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Torque Values
Application Size (grade 8) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs (to hub)
5/8–11 135 (185)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts 5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Axilok® Wheel Bearing Nuts
Axilok Nut, ConMet Preset® Bearings — 250 (339)
Stage 1: Tighten to 90–110 (122–149) While Spinning Hub in
Both Directions
Stage 2: Back Off Completely
Axilok Nut, Standard Bearings —
Stage 3: Tighten to 50 (68) While Spinning Hub in Both
Directions
Stage 4: Back Off 1/6 Turn
Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing Lock System, Standard Hub
Stage 1: Tighten to 100 (136)
Stage 2: Back Off Completely
Adjusting Nut —
Stage 3: Tighten to 20 (27) While Rotating Hub
Stage 4: Back Off 1/3 Turn
1-1/8 to 2-1/2 200–300 (271–407)
Jam Nut (with Nut-Lock and Lockring)
2-5/8 or larger 250–400 (339–542)
Table 1, Torque Values
Wheel oil seals (also called "oil bath seals" or "hub Chicago Rawhide
seals") work as a dam to keep oil in the hub cavity
so that it constantly "bathes" the wheel bearings. The The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal is a unitized, one-
seals also protect the wheel bearings by keeping dirt, piece design consisting of a sealing element (pack-
dust, and water out of the hub. ing) that is assembled between metal outer and inner
The oil seal fits between the hub bore and the axle cups. See Fig. 1. The sealing element consists of
spindle, and the sealing element either turns with the three sealing lips; a spring-loaded primary sealing lip
wheel ( hub-mounted seals) and seals against the that is factory pre-lubed and two dirt exclusion lips.
axle spindle, or the sealing element stays stationary The seal is press fit into the hub bore using Scotseal
with the axle spindle ( spindle-mounted seals) and service installation tools. Do not install the Scotseal
seals against the turning hub. directly onto the axle spindle.
Most wheel oil seals consist of four basic parts: Although you install the Scotseal into the hub bore,
the seal’s element grips the axle spindle tightly
• The outside edge (also called the outer "cup" enough that the sealing element stays stationary with
or "case") the spindle and seals against the outer cup which
• The inside edge (also called the inner "cup" or turns with the hub.
"case") The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal maintains a metal-to-
• The sealing element metal contact between the outer cup and the hub
bore surface as well as a metal-to-metal contact be-
• The garter spring tween the sealing element inside edge and the axle
The outside edge is usually metal coated with rubber spindle.
or another sealing agent so that it grips the hub bore
tight enough to prevent oil escaping between the Dana Spicer
outer edge of the seal and the hub bore.
The inside edge is usually metal or rubber with a The Dana Spicer Outrunner has a rubber-coated out-
metal ring within it to prevent the sealing element side edge and is installed in the hub bore using
from wearing a groove in the axle spindle. Dana Spicer installation tools. See Fig. 2.
The sealing element is usually molded rubber,
leather, or a synthetic such as nitrile or silicone. The
element is molded into lips which will seal against
the axle spindle or against the outside or inside edge
described above. The innermost lip, called the "pri-
mary lip," keeps the oil inside the hub cavity. The
outermost lip, called the "secondary lip," keeps dirt
out of the hub cavity.
The garter spring is a coiled wire spring with its ends
connected to make a loop. On hub-mounted seals,
the spring runs around the outside of the sealing ele-
ment to press the element inwards against the seal-
ing surface. On spindle-mounted seals, the spring
runs around the inside of the sealing element to
press the element outward against the sealing sur-
face.
Freightliner uses two brands of axle oil seals:
• Chicago Rawhide (Scotseal® and Scotseal
Plus®)
1
A 2
3
4
5
8
B
6
05/19/95 f330011a
A. Detail A B. Oil Seal (See detail A)
1. Bore-Tite® Coating 4. Outer Cup 7. Bumper Lip
2 Primary Sealing Lip 5. Inner Cup 8. Hub
3. Dirt Lip 6. Sealing Element (Packing) 9. Hub Bore
1 2
03/27/95 f330117a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Chicago
Rawhide Scotseal®.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
08/08/94 f330096a
4. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. Fig. 2, Clean the Spindle
5. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. Clean any CAUTION
metal filings from the components.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
6. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
components as necessary.
7. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
8. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
9. Seat the small outside edge of the seal in the
recess of the tool adaptor. See Fig. 3. The cor-
rect adaptor is identified on the box.
11/30/94 f330021a
10. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of
NOTE: Rear hub shown. the inner bearing cone. See Fig. 4. The plug pre-
Fig. 1, Clean the Hub vents cocking of the seal in the bore.
11. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike it until the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms
09/27/2005 f330023a
11/30/94 f330022a
NOTE: Rear hub shown. NOTE: Rear hub shown.
Fig. 3, Place the Seal on the Installation Tool Fig. 4, Insert the Tool in the Hub Bore
out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid 16. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
bounce or unseating of the seal from the adap- 17. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
tor. instructions, see Group 42 of the Business Class
12. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for M2 Maintenance Manual.
freedom of movement by manually moving the
interior rubber part of the seal back and forth. A
slight movement indicates a damage-free instal-
lation.
13. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 35.01, Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
14. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·in (20 N·m).
15. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 6. Do not overfill.
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 6, Fill the Hub with Oil
09/27/2005 f330024a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Dana
Spicer Outrunner™ seal.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle,
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity. 11/30/94 f330021a
NOTE: Rear hub shown.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, Fig. 1, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore
metal filings, or other contaminants can
scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and
cause premature wear of the bearing as-
sembly.
4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
and contaminants from all recesses and
corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
filler. See Fig. 1.
4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
cloth.
4.3 After removing the hub, inspect the
spindle. Remove any sharp edges and
burrs from the leading edges and the
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
See Fig. 2.
4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a 08/08/94 f330096a
clean shop cloth.
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Axle Spindle
CAUTION rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
2 3 03/27/95 f330117
6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen- 8. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
tly. See Fig. 6. then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in- 9. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
stall than seals with metal outer circum- hubcap. See Fig. 7. Do not overfill.
ferences. When the adaptor plate bottoms
out on the hub surface, the seal is in-
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to-
metal sound.
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
General Information
Although these axles are a Freightliner proprietary
product, in some applications they may be referred to
as "MB components."
Freightliner rear axles are compatible with industry-
standard brakes, hubs, and wheel bearings.
The following explains an example of the number
found on a Freightliner rear axle identification tag,
which is located on the carrier. See Fig. 1.
Typical Model Number: ART-40.0-4
• ART = tandem rear axle
• 40.0 = weight rating (times 1000 lb)
• 4 = basic model number
02/05/2008 f080152
1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers. tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
into the wheel end.
8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc-
tions, see the applicable service brake section in
Group 42. NOTICE
9. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
see a small amount of oil trickling out of the back hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
of the hub (fill with about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter).
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust 18. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec- lubricant level.
tion 35.00. 19. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
NOTE: See Table 1 for approved axle oils. then lower the vehicle.
10. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, connect the 20. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
DCDL air line, fill the air system, and use the valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
indicator light comes on when the differential lock correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
is engaged. For instructions, see Group 32.
21. Check the operation of the DCDL, if installed.
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en-
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to 22. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
being installed. approved axle oil, if needed.
11. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For 23. Set the parking brake, then remove the chocks
instructions, see Subject 120. from the front tires.
12. Install the brake drums on the hubs.
13. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
tions, see Group 40.
14. Adjust the brakes. For instructions, see the appli-
cable service brake section in Group 42.
15. Uncage the parking brake springs.
16. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
ity as shown in Table 1.
17. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 8 inches (20 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the
1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
5. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure it is 7.1 For the last 3/4 inch (19 mm) or so of
engaged. travel, walk the carrier slowly into the
housing.
NOTICE IMPORTANT: The end caps fit tightly into the
Make sure the differential carrier is centered and axle housing. Be very careful not to cock the
straight on the axle housing before you install carrier.
the mounting capscrews. Attempting to install 7.2 Install the carrier capscrews finger-tight.
the carrier when it is not centered or straight may Make sure the carrier capscrews turn eas-
cause damage to the carrier. ily in the axle housing.
6. Using a hoist (if the axle is removed from the 7.3 In a star pattern, gradually tighten the car-
vehicle) or a suitable transmission jack, install rier capscrews to the values given.
the differential carrier into the axle housing. Use
the alignment dowels to center the carrier on the • M12 capscrews: 115 lbf·ft (156 N·m)
axle housing. • M16 capscrews: 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m)
7. Install the end caps at the sides of the carrier 8. If removed, install the axle on the vehicle. For
into the corresponding slots in the axle housing. instructions, see Subject 100.
See Fig. 2.
1
NOTICE
2 Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
14. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
15. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
3
16. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
rect.
11/10/2004 f350438
17. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
1. Differential Carrier approved axle oil, if needed.
2. End Cap Bolt
3. End Cap 18. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
Removal
1. Chock the front tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the 3
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An
indicator light comes on when the differential lock
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en-
sure the lock is fully engaged.
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a suitable jack 2
high enough to clear the axle. Support the axle
with jack stands.
4. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to
catch any oil. Dispose of used oil properly.
1
5. If necessary, remove the rear wheels and tires.
For procedures, see Group 40. 12/13/2004 f350440
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the Apply light pressure with the hand or knee at the arrow.
wheels and tires installed or with the wheels Use the adjustable wrench to center the shaft.
and tires removed. 1. Axle Shaft
2. Axle Flange
6. Remove the drive axle stud nuts that attach the 3. Adjustable Wrench
axle shaft to the wheel hub.
Fig. 1, Installing the Axle Shaft
7. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An 3.3 Use an adjustable wrench to center the
indicator light comes on when the differential lock shaft. Turn the shaft with a slight rotating
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en- motion.
sure the lock is fully engaged.
3.4 Install the drive axle stud nuts and tighten
8. Tap the axle shaft flange if necessary to loosen it them to the values given.
and slide the axle shaft out of the axle. Remove
and discard the gasket. • 1/2–20 nuts: 75 to 115 lbf·ft (102 to
156 N·m)
Installation • 5/8–18 nuts: 150 to 170 lbf·ft (203 to
230 N·m)
1. Position a new gasket on the axle shaft flange. 4. If removed, install the rear wheels and tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure it is Tighten the wheel nuts according to the proce-
engaged. dures in Group 40.
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en- 5. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to 6. As needed, replace any oil that was drained from
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are the hub when the axle shaft was removed.
being installed. 7. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
3. Install the axle shaft, as follows. See Fig. 1.
3.1 Carefully raise the axle with the floor jack,
and support the axle with jack stands.
Slide the axle shaft into the axle.
3.2 Apply light pressure with the hand or knee
to the axle flange.
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580406
f580450
Replacement 5. Install the rear pinion seal on the rear input shaft,
as follows. See Fig. 3.
1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential 5.1 Inspect the area around the seal for dam-
carrier. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- age. Use emery paper to remove
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail. bore.
2. Remove the yoke nut from the center of the car- 5.2 Assemble the rear pinion seal installer
rier yoke. If the yoke nut is round and slotted, onto the threaded end of the universal
use the yoke nut socket shown in Table 1. See handle. See Table 1.
Fig. 1. Be careful not to damage the seal bore.
IMPORTANT: Be careful not to cock the seal
3. Remove the carrier yoke from the input shaft. during installation.
4. Pry up the seal, using a prybar or large screw-
5.3 Using the rear pinion seal installer assem-
driver. Clean any old sealant from the axle hous-
ing. Do not allow dirt or grease to contaminate bly, press the seal into the bore until the
the seal bore or shaft bearings. See Fig. 2. seal surface is flush with the bottom sur-
face of the counterbore.
05/05/2005 f350450
2
1. Input Shaft 3. Carrier Housing
2. Rear Pinion Seal
04/01/2008 f350496
NOTE: The yoke nut may be a hexnut rather than the
round, slotted nut shown here. 2
1. Yoke 2. Yoke Nut
05/12/2005 f350448
1. Universal Handle
2. Rear Pinion Seal Installer
3. Carrier Housing
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 4. Input Seal 6. Input Yoke Nut
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 5. Carrier Yoke 7. Forward Differential Carrier
3. Carrier Capscrew
On vehicles without U-bolts, install the 16. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
walking beams. tions, see Group 40.
2.2 If applicable, tighten the new U-bolt nuts 17. Adjust the brakes. For instructions, see the appli-
in a diagonal pattern. For torque values, cable service brake section in Group 42.
see Group 32. 18. Uncage the parking brake springs.
3. Connect the interaxle driveshaft to the output 19. Using approved axle oil, fill the forward-rear axle
yoke of the forward carrier and the input yoke of housing to the bottom of the fill hole, or until
the rear carrier. For instructions, see Sec- filled to capacity as shown in Table 1.
tion 41.00, Subject 120.
4. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
instructions, see the applicable service brake Capacity: quarts (liters)
section in Group 42. Approved Oil Type
Hubs Full Hubs Dry
5. Install the ABS sensors and connect the wiring at
the frame rail. Secure the wiring with tie straps 80W-90 Gear Oil
14.3 (13.5) 15.9 (15.0)
as needed. 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust- Table 1, Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
ers on the axle housing brackets. For instruc-
tions, see Group 42.
20. Raise one side of the vehicle about 8 inches (20
7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers. cm) to let the oil flow into the hubs on the oppo-
8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc- site side, then raise the other side in the same
tions, see the applicable service brake section in manner.
Group 42. 21. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
9. If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the lock then lower the vehicle.
with air. 22. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en-
and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are For instructions, see Group 32.
being removed.
23. Check the operation of the wheel lock, if in-
10. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For stalled.
instructions, see Subject 120.
24. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
11. Connect the main driveshaft to the forward input should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- approved axle oil, if needed.
ject 120.
25. Set the parking brake, then remove the chocks
12. Connect the air hoses to the air cylinder for the from the front tires.
interaxle lock and (if installed) the wheel lock.
13. Connect the electrical connector of the sensor
unit for axles equipped with a wheel lock.
14. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can
see a little amount of oil trickling out of the back
of the hub (fill with about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter).
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 35.00, Subject 100. See Table 1 for ap-
proved axle oils.
15. Install the brake drums on the hubs.
For forward-rear axle components of a tandem instal- 8. Using a suitable jack, support the differential car-
lation, see Fig. 1. rier. Chain the differential carrier to the jack.
Do not disassemble either differential carrier. There
are no serviceable parts in the differential assembly; NOTICE
it must be replaced as a unit. However, it is possible
When using a pry bar, be careful not to damage
to remove the differential carrier to repair an oil leak,
the carrier or housing flange. Damage to these
or to remove the wheel lock (differential lock).
surfaces will cause oil leaks.
When the wheel lock is removed, inspect the carrier 9. Remove the differential carrier from the axle
for damage and replace it if damage is found. If no housing, as follows. See Fig. 1.
damage is found, install the carrier again.
9.1 If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the
lock with air. This will help separate the
Forward-Rear Axle Differential carrier from the axle housing.
Carrier 9.2 Remove all but the top two carrier cap-
screws.
Removal 9.3 Loosen and back off, but do not remove,
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down the top two carrier capscrews. The cap-
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the screws will hold the carrier in the housing.
front tires. Put the transmission in neutral.
9.4 Using a pry bar, separate the mating sur-
2. If applicable, release the suspension air pres- faces of the forward differential carrier and
sure. axle housing.
3. Using suitable jacks, raise the vehicle evenly NOTE: Use a pry bar that has a round end
until there is room to fit a stand underneath the to help separate the carrier from the hous-
axle housing. ing.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. For in-
9.5 When the surfaces are separated, remove
structions, see Group 40.
the top two capscrews.
5. Remove the oil drain plug from the bottom of the
axle housing and drain the oil from the axle 9.6 With the carrier on the jack, slide the car-
housing. Install the drain plug after emptying. rier away from the axle housing.
6. Disconnect the driveshaft from the carrier yoke. 9.7 Lift the carrier assembly onto a suitable
For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- stand.
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail. Installation
7. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to NOTE: Use a cleaning solvent and clean rags to
catch any oil; then remove the axle shafts. For remove dirt. Blow dry the cleaned areas with air.
instructions, see Subject 120.
1. Remove any old sealant material from the mating
surfaces of the axle housing. Clean the inside of
WARNING the axle housing and the carrier mating surface.
The differential carrier is heavy. Do not try to 2. Inspect the axle housing for damage. Repair or
move it without a suitable support. To do so replace the axle housing as necessary.
could result in the carrier falling, which could
3. Apply a thin bead of Loctite® 5900 sealant all the
cause serious personal injury and component
way around the mating surface of the axle hous-
damage. Support the carrier with a suitable jack
ing, and around each bolt hole.
and chain it to the jack, or use a hoist if the axle
has been removed from the vehicle.
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 5. Carrier Yoke
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 6. Input Yoke Nut
3. Carrier Capscrew 7. Forward Differential Carrier
4. Input Seal
5. Position the forward differential carrier in front of 8. Connect the driveshaft to the forward input yoke.
the axle housing, using an axle jack or other suit- For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub-
able lifting tool. ject 120.
6. If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the lock 9. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
with air. This will help the carrier assembly join instructions, see Subject 120.
the axle housing. 10. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
tions, see Group 40.
NOTICE 11. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
Do not use a hammer or a mallet to install the the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
differential carrier. A hammer or a mallet will ity as shown in Table 1.
damage the mounting flange of the carrier and
cause oil leaks. Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
7. Install the end caps at the sides of the forward Capacity: quarts (liters)
Approved Oil Type
differential carrier into the corresponding slots in Hubs Full Hubs Dry
the axle housing. See Fig. 2.
80W-90 Gear Oil
14.3 (13.5) 15.9 (15.0)
1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
Table 1, Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
2
12. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 8 inches (20 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the
tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
3 into the wheel end.
NOTICE
Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
11/10/2004 f350438
1. Differential Carrier 13. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
2. End Cap Bolt lubricant level.
3. End Cap 14. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
Fig. 2, Carrier End Caps
15. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
7.1 For the last 3/4 inch (19 mm) or so of check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
travel, walk the carrier slowly into the and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
housing. rect.
IMPORTANT: The end caps fit tightly into the 16. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
axle housing. Be very careful not to cock the should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
carrier. approved axle oil, if needed.
7.2 Install the carrier capscrews finger-tight. 17. Remove the chocks.
Make sure the carrier capscrews turn eas-
ily in the axle housing.
7.3 In a star pattern, gradually tighten the cap-
screws 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m).
05/04/2005 f350451
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580410
f580408
f580450
Table 1, Special Tools for Forward-Rear Axle Yoke and Seal Replacement
3
4
2 5
1
1 2
3
7
06/21/2005 f350453
Apply a bead of sealant to the inner mating surface as
shown.
1. Inside Cover 3. Interaxle Lock Bore
2. Mounting Capscrew 4. Sealant 2
Hole 5. Mating Surface 3
4
1
05/05/2005 f350455
1. Output Yoke 3. Thru-Shaft
2. Output Yoke Nut 4. Axle Housing
05/04/2005 f350454
5.1 Inspect the area around the output oil seal
for damage. Use emery paper to remove
Keep sealant away from this bore. scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal
Fig. 4, Interaxle Lock Bore bore.
4
Assembly
5 1. Install the spring in the carrier housing, and com-
6 press it to install the spacer and shift fork in the
7
housing. Ensure that the spring is centered in the
bore.
8
13 2. Install the shift shaft into the bore in the carrier
9 housing and through the shift fork, spacer, and
12
spring, being careful to properly align it in the
bore. Do not force the shift shaft into the bore.
11
3. Install the clutch collar, and secure it by installing
10
the retaining clip on the shift fork.
04/01/2009 f350499
4. Install the adjustment screw as follows.
1. Spring 8. Differential Lock
2. Spacer Cover 4.1 Press the shift shaft in until the clutch col-
3. Shift Fork 9. Capscrew lar teeth are fully engaged with the ring
4. Shift Shaft 10. DCDL Control Switch gear.
5. Adjustment Screw 11. Air Interface
(with locknut) Connection 4.2 Install the adjustment screw, and tighten it
6. Piston (with O-Ring) 12. Retaining Clip until the outer end of it is 0.02 – 0.06 inch
7. Gasket 13. Clutch Collar (0.5 – 1.5 mm) below the top of the bore
in the carrier housing. The screw ad-
Fig. 1, DCDL Components, Model 2 Axles vances 0.04 inch (1.0 mm) per full revolu-
tion, so one complete turn should be suffi-
Disassembly cient. Use an inside micrometer or depth
micrometer to measure the gap.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
4.3 Hold the shift shaft and adjustment screw
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
in a fixed position, and tighten the locknut
front tires.
on the adjustment screw to 18 lbf·ft (24
2. Remove the differential carrier, and place it on a N·m).
work stand.
5. Grease the o-ring on the piston.
To remove a Model 2 axle differential carrier, see 6. Place the gasket on the differential lock cover,
Subject 110. and press the flat side of the piston into the dif-
3. Remove the capscrews that attach the differential ferential lock cover.
lock cover to the carrier housing. See Fig. 1.
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580448
Table 1, Special Tool for Main Differential Lock Disassembly and Assembly
Assembly
1. Install the spring in the carrier housing, and,
using the spring compression tool, compress it to
install the shift fork in the housing. Ensure that
the spring is centered in the bore.
2. Ensure the O-ring on the shift shaft piston is
properly installed and lubricated. Then install the
piston, being careful to properly align it in the
bore. Do not force the piston into the bore.
3. Place the air interface and gasket over the air
interface bore, and insert the three capscrews
that attach the air interface to the carrier hous-
ing. Tighten the capscrews in a regular sequence
that ensures it seats evenly. Tighten the cap-
screws 19 lbf·ft (25 N·m).
4. Install the clutch collar.
5. Install the retaining clip on the shift fork.
6. Install the DCDL sending unit in the carrier hous-
ing, as removed.
7. Connect the DCDL air line, and engage the
DCDL. Ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage
the teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
8. The clearance between the clutch collar and ring
gear must be between 0.4 and 1.4 mm. Engage
the DCDL, and use a feeler gauge to measure
the gap.
If the gap between the clutch collar and ring gear
measured between 0.4 and 1.4 mm, ensure the
same number of shims are on the shift shaft pis-
ton (as when it was removed).
If the gap between the clutch collar and ring gear
was not between 0.4 and 1.4 mm, add or re-
move shims to vary the gap until it measures
within the acceptable range. The acceptable
maximum number of shims is three, and the
minimum is one.
9. Install the differential carrier.
For instructions on installing a single or rearmost
axle differential carrier, see Subject 110.
For instructions on installing a forward-rear axle
differential carrier, see Subject 150.
10. Remove the chocks.
Adjustment
The Interaxle Differential (IAD) has an adjustment
screw that can become loose or even fall out, caus-
ing an oil leak, and malfunction of the IAD. To ensure
the adjustment screw is properly tightened and se- 1
cured, follow the steps below. The IAD is sometimes
called the power divider. See Fig. 1.
1. Chock the front tires.
2. Use the IAD switch in the cab to engage the
lock.
3
3. Using a suitable jack, raise the vehicle until the 2
tires are off the ground.
4. Support the vehicle with safety stands.
5. At the forward-rear axle, rotate one of the wheels
to ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage the 01/21/2008 f350494
teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
1. Carrier Housing 3. Adjustment Screw
6. Remove the adjustment screw, and using a suit- 2. Lock Nut
able solvent (such as brake cleaner), clean the
threads of the screw and bore. Dry the surfaces Fig. 1, Interaxle Differential and Adjustment Screw
completely, making sure no cleaning solvent re-
mains.
7. Coat the threads of the adjustment screw with
Loctite® 577, install it, and hand-tighten it until it
hits the shaft.
8. Disengage the IAD to relieve the air pressure
exerted on the adjustment screw.
9. Hand-tighten the adjustment screw one quarter
turn, then tighten the locknut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
10. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580410
Repair
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
and chock the tires. 3
2
2. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward
carrier input yoke. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120. Using suitable straps,
support the end of the driveshaft by attaching it
to the frame rail.
3. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 4
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke. 5
4. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate from
the bearing cage on the front of the differential 1
carrier. See Fig. 1. 09/15/2006 f350472
5. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded 1. Bearing Cage
ring to expose the bearing cavity. See Fig. 2. 2. Threaded Ring
3. Input Shaft (yoke removed)
6. Using a suitable solvent, such as brake cleaner, 4. Capscrew
clean the surface of the bearing cavity. See 5. Locking Plate
Fig. 2. Dry the surface, making sure no cleaning
solvent remains. Fig. 1, Forward-Rear Axle Differential Housing
7. Coat the threads of the threaded ring with Loc-
then spread the sealant evenly over the threads,
tite® 577 sealant. Apply a 1/8-inch (3-mm) diam-
so that all threads are thoroughly covered with
eter bead all the way around the bottom thread,
the sealant.
09/18/2006 f350468
A. Clean and dry this entire surface. 2
09/18/2006 f350473
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
17
18 16
15
14
19 12
11
20 13
21
22
10
4 9
3 8
2
1 7
6
11/02/2011 f350514
1. Yoke Nut 9. Piston Spring 16. IAD Adjustment Screw
2. Washer 10. Shift Fork 17. Output Bearing Race
3. Input Shaft Seal 11. Shift Shaft Bushing 18. IAD Assembly
4. Threaded Ring 12. Shift Shaft Bushing O-ring 19. Clutch Collar
5. Bearing Cage Capscrews 13. Cover Plate 20. Input Bearing Race
6. Bearing Cage 14. Carrier Housing 21. Locking Plate
7. Shift Shaft Piston O-ring 15. Locknut 22. Locking Plate Capscrew
8. Shift Shaft Piston
f580478
f580480
f580476
f580479
f580477
Shift Shaft Piston Installer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589023300
f580481
Replacement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
front tires.
2. Ensure the interaxle differential is disengaged
and the system is charged with air. The rear
wheels will need to turn near the end of this pro-
cedure.
3. Place a suitable strap around the driveshaft and
frame to hold the driveshaft out of the way after
it is disconnected.
4. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward
carrier input yoke (for instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120), and support it with the
strap.
5. Clean the carrier housing and surrounding area
as needed to remove any debris that could enter
the housing.
6. Drain the oil from the carrier housing.
07/15/2010 f350515
7. Disconnect the air line connected to the bearing
cage. Fig. 2, Tapping the Bearing Cage Loose
8. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 12. Remove the IAD adjustment screw and locknut.
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke.
9. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate. See
NOTICE
Fig 1. When unseating the shift shaft piston, multiple
10. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded taps may be needed, but use moderate force only
ring by turning it counterclockwise. and be careful to hit the piston only (not the
housing). Stop tapping it once it protrudes from
11. Remove the bearing cage capscrews from the the housing. The use of excessive force, or tap-
bearing cage, and pry the bearing cage from the ping it while it protrudes from the housing can
carrier housing. It may help to tap the bearing damage the piston and the housing.
cage loose with a chisel; see Fig. 2.
NOTICE
The IAD assembly is heavy. Use appropriate sup-
port while removing and transporting it to pre-
vent dropping and damaging it. Do not allow it to
rest on the oil slinger; see Fig. 3. Resting the IAD
assembly on the oil slinger could damage the oil
slinger.
07/15/2010 f350517
15. Remove the IAD assembly.
Fig. 4, Removing the Output Bearing Race
1
2
07/15/2010 f350516 3
block. The race must be square in the stalled, slight jerks can be felt and heard.
housing or damage will occur when it is See Fig. 8.
pressed. See Fig. 7.
22. Lubricate the output gear and bearing of the new
IAD assembly with white grease.
2
1
08/04/2010 f350527
07/15/2010 f350519
08/04/2010 f350521
1. Capscrews 2. Hex Screw 08/31/2010 f350522a
1. Oil Return 2. Shift Shaft Piston
Fig. 10, Shift Shaft Piston Installer, Mounted
Fig. 11, Sealant Applied to Carrier Housing
27.3 In a single movement of moderate force,
use the lever of the installer to press the 31. Install the bearing cage, and using a star pattern
piston into the bore until only about 1/8 to tighten the capscrews to 103 lbf·ft (140 N·m).
1/16 inch (2 to 3 mm) of the piston pro-
32. The push-pull device (see Table 1) is used to set
trudes from the carrier housing. When the
pre-load on the input bearing. Remove the two
piston seats, a "click" sound may be au-
upper capscrews from the cover plate and install
dible. If the piston does not seat readily,
the device as shown in Fig. 12.
adjust the hex screw, and try again.
33. Set the correct end play as follows.
Fig. 12, Push-Pull Device, Installed Fig. 13, Dial Indicator and Push-Pull Device
IMPORTANT: Do not loosen the threaded tion that fits best, install it, and tighten the
ring. If the threaded ring is loosened, the capscrew 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m).
bearing cage must be removed and the race 33.6 Remove the push-pull device and dial indi-
re-installed. cator, and install the the two upper cap-
screws on the cover plate. Tighten the
33.5 The locking plate has six positions that capscrews 63 lbf·ft (85 N·m).
can lock the threaded ring. Find the posi-
34. Install a new input shaft seal and the yoke, nut,
and washer; see Subject 170 for instructions.
35. Clean, install, and adjust the IAD adjustment
screw and locknut as follows.
35.1 Clean the IAD adjustment screw and lock-
nut with a suitable solvent (such as brake
cleaner). Dry the cleaned surfaces, ensur-
ing no solvent remains.
35.2 Connect an air line at the interaxle lock.
35.3 Apply air, and by hand, turn the input shaft
to ensure the gear cogs fully engage.
35.4 Coat the threads of the adjustment screw
with Loctite® 577.
35.5 Install the adjustment screw, with the lock-
nut, into the carrier housing, and
handtighten the screw until it touches the
engaged shift shaft piston.
35.6 Disengage the IAD to relieve the air pres-
sure exerted on the adjustment screw.
35.7 Hand-tighten the adjustment screw one
quarter turn, then tighten the locknut 30
lbf·ft (41 N·m).
36. Connect the main driveshaft; for instructions, see
Section 41.00, Subject 120.
37. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
ity as shown in Table 2.
Torque Values
Application Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Freightliner Axles (all models)
M12 115 (156)
Carrier Capscrews
M16 200 (270)
1/2–20 75–115 (102–156)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts
5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Pinion Nut (model 2 axles) M40 x 1.5 370 (500)
Pinion Nut (model 4 axles) M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Tandem Forward Axles (Model 4 only)
Bearing Cage Capscrews M12 107 (145)
Input Yoke Nut M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Output Yoke Nut M39 x 1.5 516 (700)
Table 1, Torque Values
f580406
f580410
f580408
f580450
f580478
f580480
f580476
f580479
f580477
Shift Shaft Piston Installer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589023300
f580481
General Information
The tires support the weight of the vehicle, and are
integral parts of the transmission and braking sys-
tems. The wheels serve as load carrying members
between the tires and the axle.
Only hub-piloted disc wheels are used on Business
Class M2 vehicles. Standard eight-hole and optional
ten-hole disc wheels consist of a rim and disc. The
rim, the portion of the wheel on which the tire is
mounted and supported, is welded to the disc
(Fig. 1). After the tire is mounted on the wheel, the 05/13/94 f400029a
assembly is held in place on the hub with two-piece
flange nuts. Fig. 2, Radial Ply Tire Construction
1 2
05/13/94 f400028a
11/14/2001 f080119
1. Endless Pi Tape
NOTE: Examples only. Actual specifications may vary
from vehicle to vehicle.
Fig. 5, Endless Pi Tape
1. Gross Weight Rating by Component
2. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating By Component in
Vehicle as a Whole
CAUTION
Mixing radial and bias ply tires should be done
as an emergency measure only. Some loss of
steering control and premature tire wear could
occur when driving under such conditions.
Better tire and vehicle performance is usually ob-
tained by using tires of the same size and construc-
tion. Using tires of different construction is permitted
if the following rules are observed:
• Do not mix radial and bias ply tires on the
same axle.
05/13/94 1 f400088a
• If both radial and bias ply tires are used, better
1. Matching Stick handling is usually obtained by using the bias
ply tires on the front axle.
Fig. 7, Matching Stick
• Use either all radial or all bias ply tires on the
non-driving rear axles of a vehicle. However,
all radial or all bias ply tires must be used on
1 vehicles with tandem drive-axles.
05/13/94 f400038a
1. String Gauge
05/13/94 f400087a
1. Tire Straight Edge
Inspection
WARNING
Inspect the tires and wheels, and correct any
problems. Failure to do so could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or while in use. An incor-
rectly mounted tire can burst causing personal
injury and equipment damage.
Examine the wheel or rim, and all parts. Remove any
grease, dirt, or rust. Using a wire brush, remove any 1 1
rubber from the bead seat. Use special care when 05/16/94 f400030a
cleaning the rim gutter. Rust or other foreign matter 1. Crack
can prevent the correct fitting of side rings. Replace
corroded parts. Paint the rim to prevent corrosion. Fig. 2, Cracked Wheel and Rim
Sprung or broken rings (Fig. 1), a cracked rim, wheel
(Fig. 2), or brake drum, damaged inner or outer
wheel nuts (Fig. 3), or an out-of-round wheel or rim,
requires the replacement of the damaged part. Re-
place the wheel if it has out-of-round stud holes.
05/16/94 f230014a
A
01/20/93 1 2 f400086a
1. Sprung Side Ring 2. Broken Side Ring
05/16/94 f400078a
Fig. 1, Sprung and Broken Side Rings A. End of wedge must be at least 1/16-inch (1.5-mm)
thick.
NOTE: Refer to Group 33 and Group 35 for
inspection and service procedures for the hub, Fig. 4, Rim Clamp
wheel studs, wheel, and brake drum assem-
rim spacer must not be bent, distorted, or crushed.
blies.
Replace all damaged or broken parts.
Inspect valve cores for cracks, bends, and air reten- Do not attempt to rework, weld, heat, or braze any
tion. Replace damaged or leaky cores.
rim or wheel parts that are cracked, broken, or dam-
Check the clamps, rim spacer, rim studs, and wheel aged. Use new parts or parts that are not cracked,
nuts for damage or wear. The clamps must not be broken, or otherwise damaged, and that are of the
excessively worn. The end of the wedge portion must same size and type.
be at least 1/16-inch (1.5-mm) thick. See Fig. 4. The
Inspection on the same size rim as the one from which it was
removed. Michelin Tire Corporation recommends us-
ing only new tubes, flaps, valve cores, caps, and
WARNING O-rings in a new mounting.
Tire Inflation
1. Check all parts to make sure they are correctly
seated prior to inflation.
NOTE: Inflate tires in a safety cage (Fig. 1) or
an approved portable restraining device. Always
use a clip-on chuck with an inline valve and
gauge. Make sure the inflation hose is long
enough to permit standing to the side of the tire
during inflation. Never sit on or stand in front of
an assembly that is being inflated.
WARNING
During initial tire inflation, there is the possibility
of an explosion of the assembly. Observe the fol-
lowing safety rules to reduce the possibility of
serious physical injury in the event of an explo-
sion.
IMPORTANT: Inflate tires immediately after
mounting, before the tire lubricant dries. Once
the lubricant dries, bead positioning is not pos-
05/16/94 f400023a
sible, even with increased inflation pressure.
Water in the tire can cause ply separation. Dur- Fig. 1, Safety Cage
ing tire inflation, air tank reservoirs and lines 3. If there are no problems with the assembly at 10
must be dry. Use well-maintained air line mois- psi (69 kPa), continue to inflate the tire to the
ture traps, and service them regularly. recommended pressure. See Specifica-
2. After placing the tire in a safety cage, or an ap- tions, 400 for correct cold inflation pressures.
proved portable restraining device, inflate the tire Michelin Tire Corporation recommends an initial
to 10 psi (69 kPa). Check the parts for correct inflation pressure of 90 to 100 psi (620 to 690
seating. If the seating is not correct, completely kPa) to correctly seat the tire beads.
deflate the tire and correct the problem. Never NOTE: The position of the beads, flap, and tube
attempt to seat rings or other parts by hammer- with 4 to 5 psi (28 to 35 kPa) pressure is shown
ing on an inflated or partially inflated tire. in Fig. 2. The tube is fully rounded-out within
IMPORTANT: Due to the different flex character- the tire, but there isn’t enough pressure to move
istics of radial sidewalls, it may be necessary to the beads on wide-base rims. Depending on the
use an inflation aid to help seat tubeless tire tire size and rim condition, from 20 to 40 psi
beads: (140 to 275 kPa) pressure is needed to push
• Metal rings, which use a blast of com- the beads onto the bead seat. See Fig. 3.
pressed air to seat the beads. 4. After the initial inflation, completely deflate the
tire by removing the valve core. This ensures
• Rubber rings, which seal between the tire
correct bead seating, and prevents buckling or
bead and rim, allowing the bead to move overstretching the tube in tube-type tires. Then
out and seat correctly. A well-lubricated, inflate the tire to the recommended cold inflation
heavy-duty bicycle tube can be used to pressure listed in Specifications, 400. Install the
help seal between the tire bead and rim. valve caps and tighten them finger-tight.
WARNING
05/16/94 3 f400074a Inflate tires to the specified pressure. Tire under-
inflation or overinflation will damage wheels and
1. Tapered Bead Seat
2. Flap
tires, and could result in a blowout, causing pos-
3. Valve Base sible personal injury and property damage.
5. Check the inflation pressure 24 hours after
Fig. 2, Position of Beads, Flap, and Tube at 4 to 5 psi mounting new tires.
(28 to 35 kPa)
NOTE: When testing a vehicle on a dynamom-
eter, severe tire damage can occur. Because
1 1 the manufacturers differ in their recommenda-
tions for preventing tire damage, refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions for testing a vehicle
2 on a dynamometer.
05/16/94 3 f400073a
1. Tapered Bead Seat
2. Flap
3. Valve Base
CAUTION
Improperly inflating tube-type tires can crack or
tear the edge or inside of the valve base. Once
seated, the tube can stretch only in the rim area.
Because resistance to stretch is greatest at the
valve base, there is often enough tension to
break the tube at the edge of the valve base or in
the valve base.
IMPORTANT: Use tires of the same size, type,
and capacity to carry the load at the recom-
mended cold pressure. Attempting to increase
the load capacity of a tire by overinflation will
damage the tire assembly.
NOTE: Inflate the tires to the recommended
pressure. Driving on overinflated tires will
weaken the cords by reducing their ability to
absorb road shocks, and will increase the dan-
WARNING
Read the information in Subject 140. Failure to
follow the precautions, before and during tire de-
mounting and mounting, could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly
mounted tire can burst causing personal injury
and equipment damage.
05/13/94 f400005a
05/13/94 f400007a
4. Start the upper bead over the rim flange and into
the rim well by standing on the tire. If necessary,
push a section of the bead into the rim well, and
anchor it by attaching Vise-Grip® pliers to the rim
flange (snub side toward the tire). Using the
spoon end of the tire iron, with the stop toward
the rim, work around the bead (Fig. 6). Use
small bites until the bead slips over the flange
and into the rim well. If necessary, insert a sec-
ond tire iron and relubricate the last 8 inches (20
cm) of bead.
05/13/94 f400006a 5. Inflate the tire. See Subject 130 for procedures.
Fig. 4, Valve Stem Installation
05/13/94 f400008a
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Possible Cause Remedy
Tires are not inflated to the correct Operate the tires at the recommended inflation pressure and use the proper
pressure size tires, wheels, and rims for the load to be carried. See
Specifications, 400.
Inflation pressures in a dual assembly are Inflate all tires to a uniform pressure, within 5 psi (35 kPa). See
unequal. Specifications, 400 for the proper cold inflation pressures.
Dual tires are mismatched. Examine all tires and match them according to the specifications in this
section.
The vehicle is vibrating severely. Follow the recommendations under "Vehicle Vibration" in this chart.
The brakes are grabbing. Examine and adjust the brakes. See Group 42 for instructions.
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles. See Group 33 and Group 35 for instructions.
Wheel bearings are loose or damaged, or Examine, and repair or replace the wheel bearings. See Group 33 and
bushings are excessively worn. Group 35 for instructions.
Wear is uneven among tire sets. Rotate the tires. See Group 40 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
Manual for instructions.
The driver is abusing the equipment. Caution the driver.
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Possible Cause Remedy
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles. See Group 33 and Group 35 for instructions.
Wheels, rims, or tires are out-of-round, Replace damaged components.
bent, or distorted.
Tires, wheels, rims, or brake drums are Determine the out of balance component and balance.
out-of-balance.
Tire beads are not properly seated. Demount and mount the tire. Make certain adequate lubrication is used and, if
necessary, use an inflation aid to help seat tubeless tire beads.
Rim spacers are worn or distorted. Replace the rim spacers.
Driveline, suspensions, or steering Determine the location of the vibration, then repair or replace the loose or
components are loose or worn. worn components.
15
14
13
16
3
8 9
7 12
11
1
2
10
6
5
4
3
05/01/95 f410067b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Transmission 6. U-Joint Cross 11. Dust Cap
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- 7. Bearing Cup (for half-round 12. Splined Stub Shaft
Yoke (half-round) yoke) 13. Driveshaft Tube
3. U-Joint Assembly 8. Bearing Strap and Bearing-Strap 14. Tube-Yoke (full-round)
4. Bearing Plate Self-Locking Capscrew 15. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
Capscrew 9. Slip-Joint Assembly round)
5. Bearing Cup (for full-round yoke) 10. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) 16. Rear Axle
line. See Fig. 2, examples B and C. A driveline con- A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
necting a main transmission to an auxiliary transmis- in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
sion is always referred to as a No. 1 driveline. See high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
Fig. 2, example C. tion. Therefore, vehicles having a long wheelbase
1 2 3
A
1 2 5
B 4
6
1 8
7 2 5
C 4
6
1 2 3
D 10
9 11
1 2 3
E
10 10
9 12 11
09/14/95 f410069a
1. Main Transmission 5. No. 3 Driveline 9. Primary Coupling Shaft
2. No. 2 Driveline 6. Rearmost Axle 10. Midship Bearing
3. Rear Axle 7. No. 1 Driveline 11. No. 2 Driveshaft
4. Forward-Rear Axle 8. Auxiliary Transmission 12. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
8
4
6
5
4 13 14
3
1 7
2
12
4 3
11
10
9
3
6
4
7
15
10
9 12
3 16
05/01/95 f410068b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Transmission 7. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke (half- 12. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- round) round)
Yoke (half-round) 8. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 13. Forward-Rear Axle
3. U-Joint Assembly Tube 14. Axle Output-Shaft End-Yoke
4. Full-Round Tube-Yoke 9. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) (half-round)
5. Primary Coupling Shaft Tube 10. Slip-Joint Assembly 15. No. 3 Driveshaft Tube
6. Midship Bearing Assembly 11. No. 2 Driveshaft Tube 16. Rearmost Axle
ing the bearing cups into the outsides of the yoke self-locking capscrews are installed into the yoke to
and over the ends of the trunnions. Snap rings or secure the cups. See Fig. 7.
3
2 3
1
4
6
5
4
3
2
05/02/95 1 f410072b 2
1. Bearing-Strap 4. U-Joint Cross
Capscrew 5. Half-Round Yoke 1
2. Bearing Strap 6. Yoke Cross-Hole Tab
3. Bearing Cup 08/11/95 f410154
U-Joint Angles, Phasing, and NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees
Driveline Balance from each other. This is referred to as cross
Correct U-joint working angles, U-joint phasing, and phasing.
driveline balance are vital to maintaining a quiet- After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically
running drivetrain and long life of drivetrain compo- balanced. After assembly, each driveshaft and cou-
nents (including driveline components).
1
2 4
3 3
5
11/28/94 f410073a
1. Transmission 4. Rear Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 5. Extended Centerlines
3. U-Joint Working Angles
A
A
A
6
2 5
08/11/95 f410074b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal. C. Install a half-round bearing-cup retaining wire (or
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end- safety wire) before removing the bearing straps.
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
2. Midship Bearing 5. Half-Round Bearing-Cup Retaining Wire
3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 6. Retaining-Wire Groove
Fig. 1, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, Except RPL U-Joints
the retaining-wire groove of one half- Seating the cross by tightening the bearing
round bearing cup to the other. straps can deform the bearing straps, allowing
the bearing cups to spin, which will cause rapid
3. Extend the slip-joint, while pressing the cross wear and serious damage to the U-joint.
and bearing cups into place in the yoke cross-
holes. Using a rubber or plastic mallet, gently tap 4. Place the bearing straps (if equipped) over the
the bearing cups to seat them in the yoke. See cups. Install the capscrews, finger-tight.
Fig. 7.
WARNING
CAUTION
The self-locking capscrews must not be reused.
Do not use the capscrews and bearing straps (if Replace the capscrews with new ones. Also, do
equipped) to seat the bearing cups in the yoke. not undertighten or overtighten the capscrews. A
3
1
A
2
10/21/98 f410180
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end-
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Midship Bearing 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 2, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, RPL U-Joints
loose or broken fastener at any point in the drive- 5. Alternately tighten the capscrews in increments
line weakens the driveline connection, which of 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m) to the applicable torque
could cause serious vehicle damage, or could value in Specifications 400.
result in a driveshaft separating from the vehicle.
6. If they were removed, install the fasteners that
Driveline separation can cause loss of vehicle
attach each midship bearing to its bracket;
control that could result in serious personal in-
jury or death. tighten the flanged locknuts 91 lbf·ft (123 N·m).
Separation of the driveline can also cause dam- 7. Lubricate the U-joint, following the procedure in
age to the driveline, driveline components, or Group 41 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
other areas of the vehicle. Manual.
11/28/94 f410077a
11/28/94
A f410078a
11/28/94 f410076a
1
05/02/95 f410124a
1. Retaining Tab
Fig. 7, Seat a U-Joint in a Half-Round End-Yoke
U-Joint Uncoupling dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
damage to the U-joint.
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly U-Joint Coupling
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it 1. Check and clean the end-yoke.
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a 1.1 Check the torque on the end-yoke nut.
balance machine. Removal is required for re- See Specifications 400.
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, 1.2 Check the end-yoke cross-holes for burrs
or a tube-yoke. To remove the driveshaft, see or raised metal. Using a rat-tail or half-
Subject 120. round file, remove burrs or raised metal.
NOTE: Many service operations do not require See Fig. 3.
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke 1.3 Using a mill file, and holding it flat against
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or the machined surface of the yoke lug,
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing remove any burrs or raised metal. See
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re- Fig. 4.
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To 1.4 Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint the entire surface of the yoke cross-holes.
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive- See Fig. 5.
shaft.
1.5 Turn the end-yoke until the centerline
1. Roll the vehicle forward or backward as needed through its cross-holes is vertical. See
to turn the end-yoke (of the driveline that is being Fig. 1.
uncoupled) until the centerline through its cross- 2. Check, clean, and lubricate the U-joint.
holes is vertical. See Fig. 1.
2.1 Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean
2. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. the outside surfaces of both bearing cups.
3. Support the driveshaft with a nylon support strap. See Fig. 6.
When uncoupling a coupling shaft, install two or 2.2 Check the U-joint trunnions and bearing
three support straps, as needed. Remove the cups for minute particles of dirt or grit.
fasteners that attach the midship bearing(s) to its Clean if necessary; see Subject 140.
bracket(s).
4. Remove and discard all four bearing-cup-plate CAUTION
self-locking capscrews. Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
5. Using one of the U-joint pullers listed in Specifi- cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
cations 400, remove both bearing assemblies dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
from the end-yoke cross-holes. See Fig. 2. damage to the U-joint.
6. Compress the slip-joint and pivot the end of the 2.3 Using NLGI grade 2 grease with EP addi-
U-joint cross to remove it from the yoke. Install tives, wipe a small amount of grease on
the bearing cups on the U-joint cross, and se- the needles in the bearing cups.
cure them with tape. 2.4 Using a light-weight oil, lubricate the lips
of the bearing-cup seals. See Fig. 7.
CAUTION 3. Couple the U-joint cross to the end-yoke.
Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing- 3.1 Extend the slip-joint, while pivoting the
cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of U-joint cross into place in the yoke cross-
holes.
05/02/95 f410148
05/03/95 f410102b
05/03/95 f410143
05/03/95 f410103b
B
05/03/95 f410101b
3
A
05/03/95 f410115b
08/02/96 f410145a NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown.
A. Lubricate seal lips here. Fig. 9, Seat a U-Joint Bearing Cup in a Full-Round
1. Bearing Needle 3. Bearing-Cup Seal Yoke
2. Bearing-Cup Plate
R I T OR
ME
1 1
1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
11/29/94 f410113a 2. Adhesive Band
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown.
Fig. 10, Meritor U-Joint Fasteners for Full-Round
1. Trunnion Locator Yokes
Fig. 8, Use a U-Joint Trunnion Locator
4. If they were removed, install the fasteners that
attach each midship bearing to its bracket;
tighten the flanged locknuts 91 lbf·ft (123 N·m).
5. Lubricate the U-joint, following the procedure in
Group 41 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
Manual.
6. Remove the nylon support straps, then remove
the chocks.
NOTE: Many service operations do not require 2. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the transmis-
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke sion or coupling shaft. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . If
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to half-round end-
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re- ject 100. If the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to full-
round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To procedure in Subject 110.
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive- 3. Lift the No. 2 driveshaft out of the chassis.
shaft. See Subject 100 for uncoupling from a
half-round end-yoke, or see Subject 110 for un- Intermediate Coupling Shaft
coupling from a full-round end-yoke.
Removal
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly 1. If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a remove it first.
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
balance machine. Removal is required for re-
2. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, the No. 2 driveshaft. If the intermediate coupling
or a tube-yoke. shaft has a half-round end-yoke, follow the un-
coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the inter-
No. 3 Driveshaft Removal mediate coupling shaft has a full-round end-yoke,
follow the uncoupling procedure in Subject 110.
1. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the rearmost 3. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
axle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. If the No. 3 drive- the primary coupling shaft. See Fig. 5 and
shaft is coupled to half-round end-yokes, follow Fig. 6. If the primary coupling shaft has a half-
the uncoupling procedure in Subject 100. If the round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling procedure
No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to full-round end- in Subject 100. If the primary coupling shaft has
yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub- a full-round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling pro-
ject 110. cedure in Subject 110.
2. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the forward- 4. Lift the intermediate coupling shaft out of the
rear axle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. If the No. 3 chassis.
driveshaft is coupled to half-round end-yokes,
follow the uncoupling procedure in Subject 100.
If the No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to full-round Primary Coupling Shaft
end-yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in
Subject 110.
Removal
3. Lift the No. 3 driveshaft out of the chassis. 1. For a vehicle with one coupling shaft:
If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
No. 2 Driveshaft Removal remove it first.
If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
1. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the single or
a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
forward-rear axle. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . If the
No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to half-round end- For a vehicle with two coupling shafts:
yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
ject 100. If the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to full- If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
remove it first; then, remove the intermediate
round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling
coupling shaft.
procedure in Subject 110.
B
5
2
D
4
C
3
A
B
1
05/04/95 f410096b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-yoke
Yoke 4. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
2. No. 3 Driveshaft 5. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Full-Round End-yoke
B
3
A
1
10/21/98 f410181
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 2. No. 3 Driveshaft
Yoke 3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke
B
5
7
3
B 4
D
6
C
B
1
2 A
05/05/95 f410080b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Transmission Output-Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 6. Coupling Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft 7. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Full-
4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half- Round End-Yoke
Round End-Yoke
B
4
A
1
2
A
10/21/98 f410183
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half-
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft
7
6
C
7
4
7
D
5 6
B
1 2 3
3
4
B
3
C
A
5
2
1
05/04/95 f410084b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
3
6
3
B
4 5
2
1
10/21/98 f410184
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 4. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
C 5
7
6
2
7
3
D
B
4
4
1 5
B
6
1
3
2 A
08/29/96 f410086b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. No. 2 Driveshaft
5
1
6
A
1
B
3
2
10/21/98 f410185
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
U-Joint Removal
1
Full-Round Yokes
1. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. See
Subject 120.
2. Place the driveshaft in V-blocks or a soft-jawed
vise; do not distort the tube with excessive grip.
3. Remove and discard all four bearing-plate self- 2
locking capscrews. See Fig. 1. 11/28/94 f410088a
1. Trunnions 2. Slingers
R I T OR
ME
1 1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
2. Adhesive Band
1
1
4 2
2
3
2 3
1
12/09/97 f410179
1. Snap Ring 4. Bearing Cups (RPL
2. Bearing Cups Joint)
05/15/98 f410187
3. Full Round Yoke
1. Press 3. Bearing Cup
Fig. 4, RPL U-Joint Components 2. Bridge Receiver
Slip-Joint Disassembly
Except RPL Drivelines
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
05/15/2008
1 f410418 alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will
ensure proper alignment of the slip-joint compo-
1. Weld-Strap
nents when the driveshaft is assembled.
Fig. 5, Cutting the Weld-Strap IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
cause vibration in the driveline.
2. With the driveshaft uncoupled at one end, or re-
moved from the vehicle, use a strap wrench to
unscrew the slip-joint dust cap from the sleeve-
yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke off of the splined
shaft. Remove the dust cap, and (if so equipped)
the steel washer and cork seal. See Fig. 10.
05/04/98 f410419
RPL Drivelines
Fig. 6, Removing the Bearing Cups
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
5. Remove both bearing cups from the yoke cross- hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
holes. See Fig. 7. Remove the cross from the shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
yoke. mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will
05/08/95 f410089b
7
6
5
4
3
C 2
1
05/21/2008 f410525
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
B. In Phase (cross phased)
C. Out of Phase 11/28/94 f410090a
1
12/09/97 f410191 2 A
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Bearing Strap
11/28/94 A f410099a
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke
and coupling shaft with alignment marks.
1 1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut
A
2 Yoke
1
05/08/95 B f410147
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Full-Round End-Yoke
03/06/2008 f410524
1. Midship Bearing
2. Midship Bearing Shaft
05/03/95 f410101b
05/03/95 f410103b
4. Smooth and clean the entire surface of all end- dry with compressed air. Check for minute par-
yoke cross-holes, using fine emery cloth. See ticles of dirt or grit, and clean again if necessary.
Fig. 5 for full-round yokes, or see Fig. 7 for half- 4. Check each bearing cup for missing bearing
round yokes. needles. Check the bearing-cup seals for nicks.
See Fig. 10 for a half-round-yoke U-joint bearing
cup, or see Fig. 11 for a full-round-yoke U-joint
bearing cup. Replace the U-joint assembly if any
bearing needles are missing or any seals are
damaged.
5. Apply a small quantity of multipurpose chassis
grease to the bearing needles in each cup, then
apply a small amount of light-weight oil to the
lips of the bearing-cup seals. Rotate each bear-
ing cup on the cross to check for wear. Replace
A the U-joint assembly if any bearing surfaces are
worn.
6. Check the underside of each bearing-cup plate
for burrs or raised metal. Use a mill file to re-
move any burrs or raised metal. See Fig. 12.
11/28/94 f410076a
7. Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean the
outside surfaces of all bearing cups. See Fig. 12
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface. and Fig. 13.
Fig. 7, Smoothing a Half-Round End-Yoke Cross-Hole
1 2 3 4
11/28/94 5 f410107a
1. Spalling 3. Brinelling 5. Slinger
2. End Galling 4. Pitting
3
11/28/94 f410106a
A
Fig. 9, Forcing Out Old Lubricant From a U-Joint Cross
1 08/02/96 f410145a
11/28/94
A f410078a
11/29/94 f410108a
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface.
B. Use a mill file on this surface.
11/28/94 f410077a
A
05/08/95 f410089b
Midship Bearing and Coupling the nut off slightly, and tighten it to the
same torque.
Shaft End-Yoke Replacement
or Assembly U-Joint Replacement or
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
Installation
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
or worn components can affect the entire drive- must not be intermixed. Also, components of the
line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline various makes of U-joints may not be inter-
damage. changeable, and must be assembled only with
1. Place the coupling shaft in a soft-jawed vise; do compatible products. Incorrectly assembled or
not distort the tube with excessive grip. worn components can affect the entire driveline,
NOTE: Midship bearings are permanently lubri- resulting in too much vibration or driveline dam-
cated when manufactured; it is not necessary to age.
pack the bearing with grease. Worn bearing assemblies used with a new
2. Install the midship bearing on the coupling shaft. cross, or new bearing assemblies used with a
Press the bearing on by hand, as far as it will go. worn cross will wear rapidly, making another
3. Install the end-yoke. See Fig. 6. replacement necessary in a short time. Always
replace the cross and all four bearing assem-
3.1 Apply Loctite® 242 to the shaft threads blies at the same time.
where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. If the slip-joint of a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft has
been disassembled, assemble the slip-joint before
3.2 Align the marks added to the coupling installing the U-joints.
shaft and end-yoke during removal, then
place the end-yoke on the shaft so the
yoke bores are aligned at both ends of the
Full-Round Yokes
shaft. See Fig. 6. 1. Place the assembled driveshaft in V-blocks or a
soft-jawed vise; do not distort the tube with ex-
cessive grip.
1
2. For a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft, check that the
slip-joint alignment marks are aligned, so that the
U-joints at each end of the driveshaft will be in
2
phase. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
For a coupling shaft, check that the end-yoke
and tube-yoke are aligned, so that the U-joints at
each end of the coupling shaft will be in phase.
11/28/94 A f410099a See Fig. 6.
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
and coupling shaft with alignment marks. cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut cause vibration in the driveline.
Yoke
3. Inspect and lubricate the U-joint; see Sub-
ject 140.
Fig. 6, Alignment Marks on a Coupling Shaft With an
4. Install the U-joint cross and bearing assemblies
End-Yoke
in the yoke.
3.3 Install the end-yoke nut, and tighten it 475 4.1 Position the U-joint cross in the driveshaft
to 525 lbf·ft (645 to 710 N·m). Then back yoke so one grease fitting points toward
the driveshaft, and aligns with the grease IMPORTANT: A Spicer trunnion (journal) lo-
fitting on the sleeve-yoke (if so equipped). cator should be used to prevent damage to
See Fig. 7. the U-joint trunnions and slingers.
4.3 By hand, press the bearing-cup-plate flush
with the face of the yoke. If the bearing
cup binds in the cross-hole, tap the center
of the bearing-cup plate with a leather or
A rubber mallet; do not tap the outer edges
of the plate. See Fig. 9.
11/29/94 f410112a
A. Install the cross with grease fitting pointing toward
the driveshaft, and aligned with the sleeve-yoke
grease fitting.
WARNING
Self-locking bearing-cup-plate capscrews must
not be reused; replace the capscrews with new
ones. Also, do not undertighten or overtighten
any bearing-cup-plate capscrews. A loose or bro-
ken fastener at any point in the driveline weakens
the driveline connection, which could cause seri-
ous vehicle damage, or could result in a drive-
shaft separating from the vehicle, possibly caus-
ing loss of vehicle control that could result in
1 serious personal injury or death.
4.5 Move the cross until it projects beyond the
11/29/94 f410113a machined surface of the opposite yoke
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown. lug. Using the above procedure, install the
1. Trunnion Locator opposite bearing assembly and its fasten-
ers.
Fig. 8, Using a U-Joint Trunnion Locator
1 1
1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
2. Adhesive Band
1
05/15/98 f410426
1. U-Joint Cross
1
Fig. 15, Striking the Yoke Ear
Transmission/Axle End-Yoke
Replacement or Installation
05/06/98 f410423
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled
1. U-Joint
or worn components can affect the entire drive-
Fig. 13, Installing the Snap Rings line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline
damage.
1. Apply Loctite® 242 to the input- or output-shaft
threads where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. See Fig. 16.
2. By hand, install the end-yoke on the input or out-
put shaft as far as it will go.
3. Install a new end-yoke locknut, and tighten it to
the applicable torque value in Specifica-
tions 400.
12/09/97 f410189
05/10/95 f410092b
Troubleshooting CAUTION
Noise or vibration associated with the driveline can Do not overtighten the bearing-cup-plate or
be caused by non-driveline parts. To find the cause bearing-strap capscrews. A loose or broken fas-
of noise or vibration, first road test the loaded ve- tener at any point in the driveline weakens the
hicle. Drive in all gears and at all speed ranges for driveline connection, which could result in seri-
which the vehicle was designed, including those at ous vehicle damage.
which problems are reported.
6. Check all U-joint assemblies, slip-joint splines,
NOTE: Operating a vehicle at speeds that ex- and midship bearings for wear.
ceed its drivetrain design specifications may 6.1 Try to move each driveshaft up and
cause an out-of-balance vibration. down, and from side to side. If movement
is greater than 0.006 in (0.15 mm) of a
The following is a troubleshooting elimination pro-
U-joint cross in its bearings,replace the
cess; checks should be made in the order listed. At
U-joint assembly.
each step where a problem is found, correct the
problem before proceeding to the next step, then test 6.2 If the midship bearing rattles or is loose
drive the vehicle to see if other problems still exist. If on its shaft, replace it.
no other problems exist, the elimination process may
be ended at that step. 6.3 Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined
shaft up and down, and from side to side.
1. Check all tires for uneven wear and for out-of- See Fig. 1. If looseness is greater than
roundness. Check for mismatched tires. Look for 0.007 in (0.18 mm), replace the sleeve-
wheels and rims that are out of alignment. For yoke and splined shaft.
instructions, see Group 40.
If driveline components must be replaced,
2. Check the rear suspension for loose or broken see Subject 150.
U-bolts; broken, shifted, or mismatched rear
springs; or broken spring seats. If so equipped,
check the air suspension for incorrect air spring
height. Look for anything that could cause angu-
lar misalignment of the rear axle pinion(s). For
instructions, see Group 32.
3. Check the frame rails and crossmembers for
bends, twists, or breaks; for frame-alignment-
checking and crossmember-replacement instruc-
tions, see Group 31.
4. Check the engine and transmission mounts; see
Group 01 (Engine) and Group 26 (transmis-
sion). Check the coupling shaft’s midship bearing 05/27/93 f410012a
mounts. Replace mountings that are deteriorated Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft up and
or oil-soaked; tighten loose mounting bolts. Oil- down, and from side to side.
soaked or deteriorated mountings,or loose Fig. 1, Check for Slip-Joint Spline Wear
mounting bolts, can cause driveline angular mis-
alignment. 7. Check each driveshaft for an indication of miss-
ing balance weights. If any weights appear to be
5. Check for loose U-joint bearing-cup-plate and missing, have the driveshaft balanced to a maxi-
bearing-strap capscrews. Tighten any loose fas- mum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds
tener to the applicable torque value in Specifica- weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
tions 400.
8. Check each driveshaft for dents, bends, twists,
or other damage.
If damaged, jack up the rear axle, support it on NOTE: To disassemble the slip-joint, un-
jackstands, place the transmission in neutral, and couple the U-joint at one end of the drive-
turn the driveshaft by hand to check runout. shaft, unscrew the slip-joint seal from the
The driveshaft must be straight within 0.015 inch sleeve-yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke and
(0.38 mm) on the slip-joint seal surface of the splined shaft apart. Reverse the procedure
splined shaft, 0.020 inch (0.51 mm) on the tube to assemble the slip-joint.
3 inch (76 mm) from the front and the rear
9.2 If no alignment marks are present, disas-
welds, and 0.025 inch (0.635 mm) at the center
semble the slip-joint, and reassemble it
of the tube. See Fig. 2.
with the U-joints in one of the two in-
If the driveshaft is not straight within specifica- phase positions (180 degrees apart).
tions, replace the tube. See Subject 150 for
Test drive the vehicle, then assemble the
runout specifications for a new (or rebuilt) drive-
shaft. slip-joint in the other in-phase position.
Test drive the vehicle again.
2
05/01/95
3 f410121b
1. Midship Bearing 3. Bearing Strap
2. Yoke Puller
3
1
05/08/95 f410014b
Fastener Torques
Description Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
End-Yoke Nut
RT 8609 1-1/2–18 400–450 (542–610)
T/X 14607
RT 8608 /7608LL
RTO 11909MLL /14909MLL /11908LL
RTX 16709 /15710 /16710
Fuller
RT/X 11609 /11709 /12609 /12709 /13609 /13709 2–16 450–500 (610–678)
/14609 /14709 /11710 /12710 /13710 /14710
Transmission
Output Shaft RTO/X 11708LL /14708LL
RT/O/X 14715 /15715
RTLO 12610 /13610 /14610 /15610 /16610 /12713
/14713 /16713 /14718 /16718 /18718
RM/O/X 9–115 /–125 /–135 /–145 /–155
Meritor RM/X 10–115 /–125 /–135 /–145 /–155 /–165 2–16 450–500 (610–678)
RMO 13–145
Allison HD Series 2–16 600–800 (813–1085)
Single Axle Input Eaton 23105S/D, 23080S/D 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Shaft Meritor RS–21–160 /–23–160 /–23–161 /–23–185 /–25–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-5/8–18 780–960 (1058–1302)
Eaton
Forward-Rear Axle DP/DS/DT 461P 1-7/8–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Input Shaft RT–40–145 /–44–145 M39 x 1.5 922–1132 (1250–1535)
Meritor
RT–46–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-1/4–12 480–600 (651–813)
Forward-Rear Axle Eaton
DP/DS/DT 461P 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Output Shaft
Meritor RT–40–145 /–44–145 /–46–160 M39 x 1.5 600–700 (815–950)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-1/2–18 560–700 (759–949)
Eaton
Rearmost Axle DP/DS/DT 461P 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Input Shaft RT–40–145 /–44–145 M39 x 1.5 922–1132 (1250–1535)
Meritor
RT–46–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
Midship Bearing (Coupling Shaft) 1-1/4–18 475–525 (645–710)
U-Joint Capscrew
Bearing Plate (for full-round yoke) 3/8–24 43 (49)
Bearing Strap (for half-round yoke) 1/2–20 125 (169)
RPL U-joints 1/2–20 125 (169)
Midship Bearing Locknut
Bracket to Crossmember 1/2–13 91 (123)
Fastener Torques
Description Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Bearing Mount to Bracket 1/2–13 91 (123)
Table 1, Fastener Torques
1 2 A
3
04/25/95 f410045a
1
2 B
3 4 C 5
A
A B
07/24/95 f410031a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Transmission 3. Forward-Rear Axle 5. Rearmost Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 4. No. 3 Driveshaft
NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and shaft is checked for out-of-roundness, and straight-
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees ened as necessary; then each shaft is dynamically
from each other. This is referred to as cross balanced.
phasing. If the driveshaft slip-joint is disassembled for any rea-
son, the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft should be
marked for assembly alignment. Misaligned slip-joints
will seriously affect the U-joint phasing and balance
of the driveline. Even if the slip-joint is assembled
180 degrees from its original position (which will
keep the U-joints in phase), the dynamic balance of
the driveshaft will be negatively affected.
A driveline can become unbalanced or greatly weak-
A ened if a driveshaft has been dented, bent, twisted,
or otherwise damaged. Operating a vehicle at
speeds that exceed the speed of the driveshaft’s de-
sign specifications will cause an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Loose end-yoke nuts, loose midship bearing or
auxiliary transmission mounts, loose bearing retainer
capscrews, worn U-joint trunnions or bearings, and
worn slip-joint splines can lead to excessive move-
ment of the driveshaft and cause driveline imbalance.
B
Midship Bearings
A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Therefore, most vehicles having a long wheel-
base use a midship bearing, mounted on a cross-
member in the frame, for additional driveline support.
C See Fig. 4. This allows the driveshaft to be sepa-
rated into two shorter shafts, thus improving balance
and stability.
05/21/2008 f410525
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
B. In Phase (cross phased)
Angularity Standards and
C. Out of Phase Drivetrain Configuration
Fig. 3, Driveline U-Joint Phasing The U-joints require a minimum working angle of 1/2
degree to ensure needle-roller movement in the
To ensure that the U-joints turn in phase, the sleeve- U-joint bearings. Without this movement, brinelling of
yoke and splined shaft of driveshaft slip-joints, and the trunnion bearing-contact surfaces would occur.
the coupling shaft and midship bearing end-yoke, Suspension movement causes driveshaft angles to
should be marked for assembly reference before dis- change (and therefore, needle-roller movement) in
assembly. both of the U-joints attached to driveshafts that con-
nect to the axles. However, no angle change occurs
Driveline Balance in the U-joints attached to a driveshaft that connects
the main transmission to a midship bearing or auxil-
After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically iary transmission. Their working angles must be es-
balanced. After assembly of the slip-joint, each drive- tablished during installation.
1
2 3
4 5
A
B
A
C
05/08/95 f410054a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. 1/2 to 1 Degree to 1 Degree
1. Main Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
When a midship bearing is included in the drivetrain, Every U-joint has a maximum working angle, deter-
it is installed so that the centerline of the coupling mined by the design and size of its cross assembly
shaft is in horizontal (side-to-side) alignment within and yokes. Exceeding the maximum working angle
1/2 degree, and within 1/2 to 1 degree of vertical can cause rapid U-joint wear, or in severe cases, de-
alignment, with the centerline of the main transmis- struction of the U-joint. For smooth operation and
sion output shaft. See Fig. 4. long drivetrain component life, the U-joint working
angles must be kept small and approximately equal
When an auxiliary transmission is included in the
for each shaft.
drivetrain, it is installed so that the centerline of the
inter-transmission (no. 1) driveline is in exact hori- The U-joint working angles may be made approxi-
zontal (side-to-side) alignment (within 1/2 degree), mately equal by either of two basic arrangements: a
and down 1/2 to 1 degree from vertical alignment, parallel arrangement (Fig. 1) or an intersecting ar-
with the centerline of the main transmission output rangement (Fig. 2). The parallel arrangement con-
shaft. Further, the auxiliary transmission thru-shaft sists of installing the drivetrain components so that
centerline must be parallel (horizontally and verti- all of the input, output, and thru-shaft centerlines are
cally) to the centerline of the main transmission out- approximately parallel. The intersecting arrangement
put shaft, in order to achieve equal working angles. (used only for some interaxle drivelines) consists of
See Fig. 5. installing the drive components so that the rearmost
1 3
2 4 5 C 7
6
B
A A A
07/24/95 f410052a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. 1/2 to 1 Degree C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Main Transmission 4. No. 2 Driveshaft 6. No. 3 Driveshaft
2. No. 1 Driveline 5. Forward-Rear Axle 7. Rearmost Axle
3. Auxiliary Transmission
axle pinion shaft’s extended centerline intersects the shaft unsatisfactory. For those drivetrain configura-
forward-rear axle thru-shaft’s extended centerline ap- tions, it is necessary to use a modified parallel or
proximately midway between the U-joints, when all of modified-intersecting arrangement for the no. 3 drive-
the other shafts (including the forward-rear axle thru- shaft.
shaft) are approximately parallel.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified
All single-drive vehicles, and the forward-rear axles parallel arrangement, the rearmost-axle pinion shaft
of dual-drive vehicles, use the parallel arrangement. centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 degrees
Rearmost axles of dual-drive vehicles may use the higher above horizontal than are the other input and
parallel arrangement or the intersecting arrangement, output shafts. See Fig. 7.
depending on the drivetrain configuration.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified-
The specific drivetrain configuration of each Freight- intersecting arrangement, the "proper" intersecting
liner vehicle consists of its wheelbase, number and angle is determined, then the rearmost-axle pinion
type of axles, axle spacing, type of suspension, and shaft centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 de-
number of transmissions. The specific drivetrain con- grees closer to horizontal than the "proper" intersect-
figuration determines the driveline arrangement and ing angle. See Fig. 8.
required installation angles of all the vehicle’s driv-
The axle pinion angles for all suspensions are
etrain components.
factory-set for correct driveline angularity. On Freight-
The simplest drivetrain configuration consists of a liner spring suspensions, tapered axle planing shims
single short driveline connecting a main transmission at the springs maintain the correct axle pinion angle.
to a single-drive axle, in a parallel arrangement. This On Hendrickson suspensions, spacers at the torque
driveshaft is always referred to as the no. 2 drive- rods are used to maintain the correct axle pinion
shaft. The parallel arrangement always used on angles.
single-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 1.
In the field, whenever axle or suspension compo-
On dual-drive vehicles that have both axle input nents are changed, the axle pinion angles may also
shafts of approximately the same height, a parallel change. If this occurs, contact your district service
arrangement is used. The driveshaft connecting the manager for the correct axle pinion angle adjustment
main (or auxiliary) transmission to the forward-rear procedure.
axle is always referred to as the no. 2 driveshaft; and
the interaxle driveshaft is always referred to as the
no. 3 driveshaft. See Fig. 6, which shows a parallel
arrangement when used on dual-drive vehicles.
Most dual-drive vehicles have a high thru-shaft on
the forward-rear axle, and a low pinion on the rear-
most axle. When the vehicle is on level ground, the
interaxle (no. 3) driveshaft may create very sharp
U-joint working angles with the input and output
shafts when they are parallel. In normal driving, the
U-joints could momentarily exceed their maximum
working angle, and driveline or drivetrain damage
could result. By using an intersecting arrangement at
the no. 3 driveshaft, smaller U-joint working angles
are created, promoting longer U-joint life and re-
duced driveline vibration. An intersecting arrange-
ment used on dual-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 2.
However, some axle spacings, axle models, and sus-
pension designs allow additional axle movement or
axle windup that requires additional clearances be-
tween the driveshaft and the frame or suspension
components, or that creates other conditions that
make the intersecting arrangement of the no. 3 drive-
1
2 B
3 4
5
A
A
B A
09/14/95 f410053a
1
2 B
3 C
4 5
A
A D
07/24/95 f410056a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Modified-Parallel Centerlines
B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles D. U-Joint Working Angles Not Equal by 2 Degrees
1. Transmission 3. Forward-Rear Axle 5. Rearmost Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 4. No. 3 Driveshaft
1
2 B C 5
3 4
A
A D
07/24/95 f410055a
Engine and Pinion Angle See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear-
ing cup removal.
Measurement 5. Turn the end-yoke until the machined surface of
the yoke lug is horizontal. See Fig. 2.
Before checking the pinion angles or engine angle,
check that the engine and transmission mounts are
tight and in good condition. Loose or deteriorated
mounts will cause inaccurate readings.
1
IMPORTANT: When using a digital angle ana-
lyzer (DAA), be sure to always take readings
from the same side of the vehicle. Also, keep 2
the same end of the DAA pointed toward the
front of the truck.
Using a DAA (Fig. 1), measure the engine angle,
driveshaft angles, and pinion angles. Read all angles 10/15/2001 f410495
to the nearest one-tenth of a degree (6 minutes). NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer
2. End-Yoke
10/15/2001 f410487
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer
2. End-Yoke
3. Transmission
F
E
A B
C
D
10/03/2001 f410489
A. Tranmission C. Second Driveshaft E. Inter-Axle Driveshaft
B. First Driveshaft D. Rear Drive Axle F. Rear Drive Axle (rear-most)
1 3
2 4
10/03/2001 f410488
1
2 3
4 5
A B
C
05/08/95 f410005a
A. 1/2-Degree Minimum C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. Parallel Centerlines to 1 Degree
1. Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
07/19/2006 f320426
1 1
1 1
05/02/2001 f422186a
1. Tone Wheel and Sensor 3. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
2. Front Modulator Valve Assembly 4. Rear Modulator Valve Assembly
2
1 3
1 4
2 3
05/12/2000 f421591
1. Tone Wheel 3. Sensor Spring Clip
2. Lubricant 4. Sensor 10/12/2000 f610454
1. Tractor ABS Warning 3. Trailer ABS Warning
Fig. 2, Wheel Speed Sensor Components Light Light
2. ATC Indicator Light
B
Fig. 4, ABS and ATC Lights (ICU Level 1 [ICU 3]
A shown)
3 12 1
above, repair the ABS/ATC system. See
4 11 2
Troubleshooting, 300 for fault diagnosis.
10 3 If, during vehicle operation, the safety circuit senses
2 a failure in any part of the ABS system (such as a
9 4
sensor, modulator valve, wiring connection, or short
1 8 5 circuit), the ABS warning light comes on, a fault code
is stored in ECU memory, and the control circuit
7 6
where the failure occurred is switched to normal
braking action. The remaining control circuit retains
09/07/99 f542947 the ABS effect.
A. Frame-mounted ECU. Even if the ABS system is completely inoperative,
B. ECU connector pin locations.
normal braking is maintained. An exception would be
1. X1 Connector (gray) if a modulator valve or valve assembly is damaged
2. X2 Connector (black)
and inoperative. These components are an integral
3. X3 Connector (green)
4. X4 Connector (brown—6S/4M, 6S/6M only) part of the air brake system so normal braking may
be impaired or inoperative.
Fig. 3, Frame-Mounted ECU and Pin Locations
For troubleshooting purposes, the ECU can commu-
that may be heard inside the cab. These clicking nicate with the Meritor WABCO PC Diagnostics (rec-
noises are normal and do not indicate an ABS prob- ommended), ServiceLink, a hand-held Pro-Link elec-
lem. After about 3 seconds, the lights go off only if all tronic diagnostic tool through the J1587 diagnostic
of the ABS and ATC components are functioning datalink connector or blink codes. The connector is
correctly. located near the B-pillar on the driver’s side and the
diagnostic switch is on the B-pillar panel. Fault codes
On vehicles with Automatic Traction Control, after the can be retrieved through the datalink connection,
self-test the ATC indicator light comes on if a drive when necessary.
wheel spins during startup or acceleration.
IMPORTANT: Do not open the ECU. Opening
IMPORTANT: If the ABS warning light and the the ECU to gain access to the internal compo-
ATC indicator light do not work as described nents will void the warranty.
4
4
5
5
3 3
6
A A
2
2
6
7
7
1
1 8
8
9
02/27/2004 9 f420856b
10
NOTE: Both solenoid valves are closed. The modulator 02/17/2004 f422056
valve is shown in the braking configuration with in- NOTE: Both solenoid valves are open.
creased air pressure at the supply port (supply dia-
phragm unseated, exhaust diaphragm seated). A. Air from brake chamber.
A. Air to brake chamber. 1. Exhaust Valve (open)
2. Supply Valve (open)
1. Exhaust Valve (closed) 3. Supply Port
2. Supply Valve (closed) 4. Supply Pilot Chamber
3. Supply Port 5. Supply Diaphragm (seated)
4. Supply Diaphragm (unseated) 6. Delivery Port
5. Delivery Port 7. Exhaust Diaphragm (unseated)
6. Exhaust Diaphragm (seated) 8. Exhaust Pilot Chamber
7. Exhaust Port 9. Exhaust Chamber
Fig. 5, Modulator Valve, Normal Brake Control (brake 10. Exhaust Port
applied) Fig. 6, Modulator Valve, Brake Release (exhaust)
Brake Hold Control (ABS Active) delivery port. This stops the flow of air from the
brake chamber to the exhaust port.
The ABS brake hold function takes control during an
emergency stop when the pedal control valve deliv- • The supply valve stays open to maintain pres-
ers more air than the brakes can handle without lock- sure in the supply pilot chamber and keep the
ing. The hold function occurs after the ABS has supply diaphragm seated. This prevents further
started to control the pressure in the brake chamber buildup of pressure in the brake chamber.
by releasing some of the air.
• The remaining air pressure in the brake cham-
• When enough air is released through the ex- ber is held and remains constant for stopping
haust port to stop the wheel from locking (ABS the vehicle in the minimum distance.
brake release), the exhaust valve is closed
and air pressure is allowed to flow into the ex- Reapply Brake Control (ABS
haust pilot chamber. See Fig. 7. Active)
• The increased pressure under the exhaust dia- The last ABS function is the reapply brake control. To
phragm seats the diaphragm, which closes the achieve maximum braking, the ECU determines
passage between the exhaust port and the when to reapply the air pressure that the pedal con-
trol valve is delivering. When appropriate, both ABS
4
Automatic Traction Control
If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Traction
5 Control (ATC), the ABS/ATC system automatically
3 reduces wheel spin during low-traction startup or
acceleration.
6 If a drive wheel starts to spin faster than the steer-
2
axle wheels, the ATC system applies air pressure to
brake that drive wheel. This transfers engine torque
to the wheel or wheels that have better traction (dif-
ferential braking). If two or more drive wheels spin,
the ATC reduces the engine torque to provide im-
7 proved traction, overriding the throttle pressure from
1 the driver.
8 The ATC valve controls only the brake chambers for
the drive wheels. It is mounted on the service relay
valve (rear modulator valve assembly). See Fig. 8.
The solenoid in the ATC valve controls an on/off air
9 valve, which allows or prevents air flow to the control
02/27/2004 f422055 side of the service relay valve.
NOTE: The supply valve is open; the exhaust valve is
closed.
1. Exhaust Valve (closed)
2. Supply Valve (open) 1
3. Supply Port
4. Supply Pilot Chamber
5. Supply Diaphragm (seated)
6. Delivery Port
7. Exhaust Diaphragm (seated)
8. Exhaust Port
An ATC function switch on the dash allows the driver the self-test, and whenever a malfunction occurs, the
to select from two levels of drive-axle traction control ECU completes the ground path and the ABS indica-
(see Fig. 9): tor on the dash comes on. See Fig. 4. The light is
also used to display blink code diagnostics.
• In the default position, the ATC reduces drive-
axle wheel spin on icy, wet, or sand-covered The tractor warning light alerts the driver that the
roads. self-test is working or that an ABS system malfunc-
• Pressing the NORM/SPIN switch increases the tion exists. After a wheel-sensor-related fault has
available traction on extra soft surfaces like been repaired, if the stored faults are cleared, the
snow, mud, or gravel by slightly increasing the ABS warning light remains on until the vehicle is
permissible wheel spin. The greater wheel spin driven above a speed of 4 mph (6 km/h).
may also be used to help burn through a thin The ATC indicator light also receives power when-
layer of ice. ever the ignition switch is on. If the drive-axle wheels
spin, the ATC indicator light turns on.
On vehicles equipped with Automatic Traction Con-
trol, if the NORM/SPIN switch is activated, the ABS
ECU allows more wheel spin than normal and the
ATC indicator blinks continuously until the switch is
deactivated. See Fig. 9.
If the ATC wheel-spin indicator light stays on during
normal vehicle operation, there is a malfunction in
the ATC system.
allowing the PLC messages to pass from the trailer by the tractor ABS. The tractor ABS turns on the
power line to the tractor ABS power line. It does this trailer ABS lamp on the dash. See Fig. 11 for a sim-
through a series of inductor coils and capacitors. See plified schematic of the overall PLC and trailer ABS
Fig. 10. warning lamp system.
green
Inductor Coil
Tractor ABS
Power +12V yellow
From Fuse’
Breaker
Capacitor
white
Capacitor
GND
Capacitor
Inductor Coil
Trailer ABS
Power +12V blue
From Fuse’ blue
Breaker
blue
+12V to Tractor
ABS ECU
Trailer ABS
Warning Lamp
7−way trailer
connector (pin 7)
Tractor ABS Trailer ABS power
Tractor ABS ECU power and PLC PLC and PLC Trailer ABS ECU
(and PLC Filter (and PLC
receiver) transmitter)
+12V to Trailer
ABS ECU
03/20/2001 f422224
Tire Size
For proper ABS/ATC operation with the standard
ECU, the front and rear tire sizes must be within 14
percent of each other. When the tire-size range is
exceeded, system performance can be affected and
the warning lamp may come on.
Call Meritor WABCO at 1-800-535-5560 if you plan a
tire-size difference greater than 14 percent.
Calculate the percentage difference of the tire sizes
with the following equation:
Percentage Difference = {(steer-axle tire RPM ÷
drive-axle tire RPM) – 1} x 100, where RPM equals
tire revolutions per mile.
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock
the tires before working under the vehicle. Re-
leasing air from the system can cause the ve-
hicle to roll.
• Keep hands away from brake chamber push
rods and slack adjusters; they will apply as the
air pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes.
• Never remove a component or pipe plug un-
less you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
• Never exceed the recommended air pressure.
• Always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them toward anyone.
• Never attempt to disassemble a component
until you have read and understood the recom-
mended procedures. Some components con-
tain powerful springs and injury can result if
they are not correctly disassembled. Use only
the correct tools and observe all precautions
regarding use of those tools.
Fig. 1, Front Wheel Speed Sensor Removal 11. Attach the hose clamp and sensor cable to the
axle tube located between the backing plate and
3. Remove the sensor cable from the steering the spring plate.
knuckle top cap. 12. Press the clamping bushing into the mounting
4. Disconnect the sensor cable from the chassis block until it stops.
harness. 13. Coat the sensor with Mobil HP, Valvoline EP633,
Pennzoil 707L, or an equivalent. Using your
Adjustment
A
NOTE: The following adjustment procedure re-
quires the use of special tool T11-17556-000.
Use of this tool, available through the PDCs,
eliminates the time-consuming task of removing
the wheel and tire assembly, and the brake
drum. See Fig. 1.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- B
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
front tires.
01/19/95 f421323
Disassembly 1
Installation
IMPORTANT: Some ABS service hubs do not
have a tone (tooth) ring installed on the hub.
The tone ring must be ordered separately and A
installed on the hub before installation of the 1
hub onto the axle. Tone rings are made of a
special material and require a specific installa-
tion procedure for proper installation. 2
WARNING
When installing an ABS system, special ABS 12/23/97 f421664
hubs must be ordered. Machining older hubs to A. Use pliers to apply the ring.
accommodate the installation of tone rings can 1. Tone Ring 2. Hub
cause problems due to insufficient hub bore wall
thickness. Machining an older hub with insuffi- Fig. 1, Install the Ring on the Hub
cient hub bore wall thickness could result in
cracking, causing bearing damage and wheel A
loss. This could cause an accident resulting in
personal injury and property damage.
1
1. Submerge the tone ring in boiling water or place
it in an oven at 250°F (121°C) for approximately
2
15 minutes.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to heat the tone ring with a torch 12/23/97 f421665
as this can damage the ring. A. Use a rubber mallet.
2. Using pliers, remove the tone ring from the boil- 1. Tone Ring 2. Hub
ing water or oven and center it on the machined Fig. 2, Tap the Tone Ring
area of the hub bore. See Fig. 1.
3. While the tone ring is still hot, make sure it is
properly centered on the machined surface. Us- 1
ing a rubber mallet, tap the tone ring until it bot- 2
toms out around the machined surface on the 3
hub. See Fig. 2.
4. Install the hub on the axle. Place a dial indicator
with a magnetic base so the dial indicator is
against the tone-ring teeth. See Fig. 3.
5. Rotate the hub and check the ring for runout.
The runout should be less than 0.005 inch (0.13
mm). See Fig. 4. 02/27/98 f421666
6. Install the wheel. For instructions, see Group 40. 1. Hub 3. Dial Indicator
2. Tone Ring
1
02/27/98 3 f421667
A. Rotate the hub.
1. Tone Ring 3. Axle
2. Dial Indicator
WARNING
Do not test a vehicle equipped with Automatic
Traction Control (ATC) on a dynamometer unless
the ATC system is disabled. Activation of the ATC
on a dynamometer will cause unequal drive-
wheel torque that can result in loss of vehicle
control and personal injury or death.
Vehicles with ATC must have the ATC disabled be-
fore testing the vehicle on a dynamometer. Use one
of the following methods to disable the ATC:
• Use the Meritor PC Diagnostics or the Pro-Link
electronic diagnostic tool to disable the ATC.
• Press and hold the blink code switch for a
least three seconds. Once the system identifi-
cation code begins, the ATC system has been
disabled. See Table 1 for system ID codes.
• Removing the ABS circuit breaker or fuse, or
removing the ECU power connector will dis-
able both the ABS and ATC.
The ATC light on the dash comes on and stays on
when the ATC is disabled.
4 11 2
Before testing a wheel speed sensor, modulator
valve, or ATC valve, make sure the supply voltage to 10 3
the antilock braking system (ABS) electronic control 2
9 4
unit (ECU) is sufficient (see "ECU Supply Voltage
Test") and check for leaks in the ABS pneumatic sys- 8 5
tem. 1
7 6
The sensor and valve resistance tests are given in
two steps. First, disconnect the applicable cable from
09/07/99 f542947
the ECU and measure the resistance across the ter-
minals in the cable connector. If the resistance is A. Frame-mounted ECU.
within the specified range, both the cable and the B. ECU connector pin locations.
sensor or valve are good. 1. X1 Connector (gray)
2. X2 Connector (black)
Next, if the resistance reading is not acceptable, dis- 3. X3 Connector (green)
connect the cable from the sensor or valve and mea- 4. X4 Connector (not used)
sure the resistance across the sensor or valve termi-
nals. This two-step procedure quickly determines Fig. 1, Frame-Mounted ECU and Pin Locations
whether the problem is in the cable or the compo-
nent. ECU Supply Voltage Test
NOTE: The valve circuits and wheel sensors Use Meritor WABCO PC Diagnostics system to
can be tested by Meritor PC diagnostics. If PC check the supply voltage to the ABS ECU. If the PC
diagnostics indicate a problem, test the indi- Diagnostics is not available, use the following proce-
vidual component to determine whether the dure to check the voltage.
component or the wiring has failed. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brake, shut down the engine, and chock the
Wire Numbers and Connector rear tires.
ABS Pneumatic System Test 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
To check for air leaks in the ABS pneumatic system, rear tires.
listen for the sound of escaping air at each valve. To 2. Disconnect the sensor cable connector from the
confirm a slow air leak, apply a soap-and-water solu- ABS ECU. See Table 1.
tion to air line fittings and watch for bubbles.
3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the sensor connec- • If the resistance is less than 900 ohms or
tor terminals and read the resistance. greater than 2000 ohms, clean the termi-
nals and check the resistance again.
• If the resistance is 900 to 2000 ohms, the
cable and the sensor circuit are good. Pro- • If the resistance reading is still not correct,
ceed to the "Wheel Speed Sensor Voltage" replace the sensor. See Subject 110 for
test. instructions.
• If the resistance is less than 900 ohms or 4. Install the connectors and remove the chocks
greater than 2000 ohms, perform the next from the tires.
test, "Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance."
Wheel Speed Sensor Voltage
Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance
NOTE: PC diagnostics can be used for this test
To check the resistance in a wheel speed sensor, to compare speed signal output of all sensors. A
perform the following test: problem will be indicated by low or erratic out-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- put.
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the To check the voltage output of a wheel speed sen-
rear tires. sor:
2. Disconnect the wheel sensor cable from the 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
chassis harness. ing brake, and shut down the engine.
3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the pins on the 2. Chock the tires of the axle not being tested.
sensor and read the resistance. Raise the vehicle and put jack stands under the
• If the resistance reading is 900 to 2000 axle so the wheels can rotate.
ohms but the resistance noted in the previ-
3. Disconnect the applicable connector from the
ous test, "Wheel Speed Sensor and Circuit
ABS ECU for the sensor being tested. See
Resistance" was not, repair or replace the
Table 1.
chassis harness wiring.
NOTE: Valves can be tested using the Meritor 5. If the valves still do not cycle correctly, start the
WABCO PC Diagnostics software or the follow- engine and check the air line connections to the
ing procedure. valves for leaks. Shut down the engine and
tighten the air line fittings. Repeat the self-test.
Modulator valves control the air pressure to each af-
fected brake during an ABS function. To make sure 6. If the valves still do not cycle correctly, check for
the modulator valves are working, listen to them fault codes. Perform the next test, "Modulator
cycle during the ABS self-test. Valve and Cable Resistance."
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- Modulator Valve and Cable
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires. Resistance
2. Turn the ignition switch on. To check the resistance in a modulator valve and
cable circuit, perform the following test:
3. When the ABS warning light comes on, listen for
the modulator valves to cycle one by one, then 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
together diagonally. See Fig. 2. ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
• 4-Channel valve cycle: 1, 2, 3, 4; then 1
and 2 together followed by 3 and 4. 2. Disconnect the modulator valve connector from
the ABS ECU. See Table 1.
• 6-Channel valve cycle: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6;
then 1, 2, and 3 together followed by 4, 5, 3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the cable connec-
and 6. tor pins for the modulator valve "In" solenoid and
"Ground." Read the resistance. Then, move the
4. If the valves do not all cycle correctly, turn the probes to the "Out" and "Ground" pins and read
ignition off and check the connectors for tight- the resistance.
ness. Repeat the self-test.
4. The resistance in each solenoid coil and cable • If the resistance in each solenoid coil is 4
circuit must be 4 to 8 ohms. to 8 ohms but the resistance noted in the
previous test, "Modulator Valve and Cable
• If the resistance in each solenoid circuit is
Resistance" was not, repair or replace the
4 to 8 ohms, the cable and modulator
chassis harness.
valve are good. Install the connector on
the ECU and remove the chocks from the • If the resistance is less than 4 ohms or
tires. greater than 8 ohms, clean the terminals
on the modulator valve and check the re-
• If the resistance in either solenoid circuit is
sistance again.
less than 4 ohms or greater than 8 ohms,
go to the next test, "Modulator Valve Re- • If the resistance is still not correct, replace
sistance." the valve. See Subject 130 for instruc-
tions.
Modulator Valve Resistance 5. Install the cable connectors and remove the
To check the resistance in the solenoid coils in an chocks from the tires.
ABS modulator valve, perform the following test:
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- ATC Valve Tests
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires. ATC Valve and Cable Resistance
2. Disconnect the cable connector from the modula- To check the resistance in the ATC valve and cable
tor valve being tested. See Table 1. circuit, perform the following test:
3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the modulator 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
valve "In" solenoid and "Ground" terminals and ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
read the resistance. Then, move the probes to rear tires.
the "Out" and "Ground" terminals and read the
resistance. See Fig. 3 for the modulator terminal 2. Disconnect the ATC valve connector (X3) from
locations. the ABS ECU. See Table 1.
3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the cable connec-
A tor pins 5 and 6 for the ATC valve and read the
resistance.
4. The resistance in the ATC solenoid coil and
cable circuit must be 6.4 to 12 ohms.
B • If the resistance is 6.4 to 12 ohms, the
ATC valve and cable are good. Install the
1 cable connector on the ECU and remove
2 the chocks from the tires.
3 • If the resistance is less than 6.4 ohms or
greater than 12 ohms go to the next test,
08/30/99 f430143 "ATC Valve Resistance."
A. Delivery Port B. Supply Port
1. Ground (Common) ATC Valve Resistance
2. Exhaust Solenoid (Out)
3. Supply Solenoid (In) To check the resistance in the solenoid coil in the
ATC valve, perform the following test:
Fig. 3, Modulator Valve Terminals
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
4. The resistance in each solenoid coil must be 4 to ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
8 ohms. rear tires.
2
1
08/30/99 f430144
1. ATC Valve
2. Rear Modulator Valve Assembly
3. ATC Solenoid Terminals
PLC Troubleshooting The PLC filter is located near the trailer receptacle
on the frame rail or crossmember. Follow the single
blue wire from the PLC filter to the primary or supple-
Special tools to test PLC are currently in develop-
mental receptacle. Whichever trailer receptacle the
ment and will be available soon. It is anticipated that
blue wire is connected to carries the PLC signal.
these tools will have the capability to do the follow-
ing: NOTE: For the following steps, you will need a
• Simulate a trailer ABS PLC message to the digital multimeter (DMM) with capacitance mea-
tractor ABS ECU to turn on the trailer ABS suring capability.
warning lamp. This tests the functionality of the 1. At the 2-pin connector with the green and yellow
vehicle portion of the system. wires, use a DMM to measure the resistance
• Detect a PLC message from the trailer ABS. across the green and yellow wires.
This tests the functionality of the trailer portion • If the reading is less than 0.5 ohms, go to
of the system. the next step.
At present, the only way to test the trailer ABS warn- • If the reading is more than 0.5 ohms, the
ing lamp system with PLC is to connect the vehicle tractor ABS power circuit is open in the
to a trailer with PLC. When the ignition is turned on, PLC filter. Replace the filter.
the trailer ABS lamp should come on for a few sec-
onds, then go out. This indicates that there is PLC 2. Determine the receptacle (primary or supplemen-
communications, the warning lamp works, and there tal) that supplies power to the trailer ABS. Using
are no faults in the trailer ABS. If the trailer ABS a DMM, connect one lead to pin 7 of the recep-
lamp remains on, there is a fault in the trailer ABS. tacle that supplies power to the trailer ABS and
Refer to the trailer ABS manufacturer’s literature for the other lead to the 2-pin connector on the PLC
troubleshooting the trailer ABS system. filter that has the two blue wires. Measure the
resistance at both pins on the 2-pin connector.
NOTE: It is also possible that the trailer ABS • If the reading is less than 1.0 ohm, go to
lamp circuit is shorted to ground, causing the the next step.
lamp to stay on.
• If the reading is more than 1.0 ohm, there
PLC Filter Testing is an open circuit either between the 7-way
trailer receptacle and the PLC filter, or in
Testing of the PLC filter is possible. Before perform- the PLC filter itself. Repair the harness or
ing these tests make sure the ignition is OFF. Dis- replace the PLC filter as necessary.
connect the 2-wire connector (green/yellow wires)
and the 2-wire connector (blue wires) from the filter.
3. At the PLC filter, connect one lead of the DMM that has the two blue wires) and connect the
to the green wire (at the 2-pin connector with the other lead to the ground where the white wire
green and yellow wires) and the other lead to terminates. Measure the capacitance.
one of the blue wires (at the 2-pin connector with • If the reading is 9.91 to 11.91 µF, the PLC
the two blue wires). Measure the capacitance.
filter is functioning properly.
• If the reading is 4.8 to 7.2 µF, go to the
• If the reading is less than 9.91 or more
next step. than 11.91 µF, check and clean the ground
• If the reading is less than 4.8 or more than connection where the white wire termi-
7.2 µF, one or more of the internal capaci- nates and retest. If the reading is still un-
tors is faulty. This may affect PLC function- satisfactory, one or more of the internal
ality and/or noise in the electrical system. capacitors is faulty. This may affect PLC
Replace the PLC filter. functionality and/or noise in the electrical
system. Replace the PLC filter.
4. At the PLC filter, connect one lead of the DMM
to one of the blue wires (at the 2-pin connector
ABS Warning Lamp Function off, while ground at the instrument cluster pin
B11 = lamp on). It also ensures that the lamp
The ABS warning lamp in the instrument cluster will be on if the ABS ECU is disconnected from
the vehicle harness.
warns the driver of a malfunction in the anti-lock
brake system. When the system is operating nor- • J1587 Message: The ABS ECU can send
mally, the lamp should come on for a few seconds messages over the J1587 databus to turn the
when the ignition is first turned on, then it should turn warning lamp on or off.
off. If a fault occurs in the system, the lamp will illu-
• J1939 Message: The ABS ECU can send
minate as long as the fault remains active. If a wheel
messages over the J1939 databus to turn the
sensor fault is repaired or if the system is reconfig-
warning lamp on and off.
ured, the light will remain on until the vehicle is
driven over 4 mph (6.4 km/h). The ABS warning lamp will be illuminated if circuit
376L1 connected to pin B11 at the instrument cluster
The ABS warning lamp can be controlled by any of
or if either J1587 or J1939 databus message is
the following ways:
broadcast to turn on the lamp. Any one of these will
• By wire (circuit 376L1): The ABS warning cause the lamp to turn on. See Fig. 1 for ABS lamp
lamp is hardwired between the ABS ECU and wiring.
the instrument cluster through a relay. When
The ABS ECU will monitor the hardwired lamp circuit
the circuit to pin B11 at the instrument cluster
for faults (the portion that operates the control side of
is grounded, the lamp will turn on.
the relay).
NOTE: The relay is used to invert the ground
signal between the ABS ECU and the instru- Troubleshooting Tables
ment cluster (ground at ABS ECU pin = lamp
J1587 Fault Codes (MID 136 SID 023): ABS Warning Lamp Circuit
FMI Fault Description Test Test Result Action
05 Open Circuit Test 1:
• a camshaft-and-chamber bracket When the brakes are released and air is exhausted
from the brake chamber, the actuator return spring
• two brake shoe and lining assemblies (within the brake chamber) and the brake shoe return
• two retaining springs spring return the camshaft, brake shoes, slack ad-
juster, and pushrod to their released positions.
• a return spring
• two anchor pins
The S-head camshaft transfers braking force from
the slack adjuster to the brake shoe assemblies. The
camshaft passes through the brake spider and
camshaft-and-chamber bracket before connecting to
the slack adjuster. See Fig. 1.
Each brake shoe is mounted on an anchor pin on the
brake spider and is controlled (moved) by either the
outward braking force of the S-head camshaft or the
inward restoring force of the return spring.
The heavy-duty, double-web brake shoes have
notches on one end of the webs that fit on the an-
chor pins. Two retaining springs secure the brake
shoes to each other near the anchor pins, creating a
hinge for brake-shoe movement. This design makes
quick-change brake service possible.
Meritor steer axles have seven 0.656-inch-diameter
holes for attaching the spider to the axle flange. An
oversized eighth hole (0.687-inch diameter) in the
axle flange is for an antilock brake system (ABS)
wheel speed sensor bushing. See Fig. 2. The eighth
hole is in the 10 or 2 o’clock position, depending on
which side of the axle is viewed.
Q Plus MX500 brakes are extended maintenance
brakes. These brakes can be identified by an identifi-
cation tag affixed to the brake shoe. An additional
identification tag is affixed to the brake camshaft-
and-chamber bracket (on top of the plugged grease
hole). MX500 brakes and Meritor automatic slack
adjusters do not have grease fittings.
22
4
2
9
1
10 12
7
3 11
3 15
20 17
23
24 13
5 14
16
16
21 6
19
4 18
15
7
12/11/97 f421684
07/19/95 f420156a
A. Oversized Hole (10 or 2 o’clock position) for ABS
bushing.
General Safety Precautions the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
WARNING etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or and strength of the original equipment.
drums, always replace components as an axle • Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that
set. all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at pending devices are installed or replaced.
the same time. • Replace devices that have stripped threads or
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining
the same time. should not be attempted.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or • Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single certain all components and systems are re-
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, stored to their proper operating condition.
at the same time. Do not mix component
types. Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
Safety
age, personal injury, or death.
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the WARNING
following precautions: Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and and continuing through assembly. Breathing
chock the tires. brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser- quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
voirs before beginning any work on the vehicle. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
Depleting air system pressure may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
chamber pushrods and slack adjusters, which should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
may apply as air pressure drops. the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
• Disconnect the batteries. possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line lung disease) and cancer.
containing compressed air. It may whip as air Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
plug unless you are certain all system pressure health hazard, the following precautions should also
has been released. be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al- Areas where brake work is done should be separate
ways wear safety glasses when working with from other operations, if possible. As required by
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
rect them at anyone. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble, or in- During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
stall a component until you have read and un- high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
derstand the service procedures. Some com- and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury worn during all procedures.
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
WARNING CAUTION
Before starting the procedure below, read the For a Meritor automatic slack adjuster, disengage
safety precaution information in Safety Precau- the pull-pawl before turning the manual adjusting
tions 100. Failure to be aware of the dangers of nut. Failure to do so could damage the pull-pawl
brake lining dust exposure could result in seri- teeth. The brake clearance will not automatically
ous and permanent health damage. adjust if the pull-pawl is damaged.
IMPORTANT: When replacing the brake linings, 4. If your vehicle has a Meritor automatic slack ad-
use a dial indicator to measure the cam-to- juster, disengage the pull-pawl on the side of the
bushing radial free play (the up-and-down and adjuster.
side-to-side free play of the camshaft) and the 4.1 Using a screwdriver or an equivalent tool,
camshaft axial end play (the in-and-out end play pry the pawl button out about 1/32 inch
of the camshaft). (0.8 mm). See Fig. 1.
Replace the bushings if the cam-to-bushing ra- 4.2 Wedge the tool in place until the end of
dial free play exceeds 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) of the brake shoe installation. Pull-pawls are
spring loaded. When the tool is removed,
movement. the pull-pawl will engage the teeth auto-
Remove the snap ring from the end of the slack matically.
adjuster and add shims between the slack ad-
juster and the snap ring if the axial end play ex- A
ceeds 0.005 to 0.030 inch (0.13 to 0.80 mm) of
movement.
For detailed instructions, see Subject 150.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired.
2. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety 09/27/94 f420693a
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. A. Insert a screwdriver here to pry the pull-pawl
button out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
08/09/94 f420668a
IMPORTANT: Do not lubricate the cam-head Squeeze the ears of the retainer clip to-
surface or the center section of the cam roll- gether to fit between the brake shoe
webs on the cam end of the brake shoes.
ers. For efficient operation, the cam interface See Fig. 6.
must remain free of oil, grease, and other
contaminants. Push the retainer clips between the brake
shoe webs until the ears lock in the holes
1.1 Using an NLGI grade 1 or 2 multi- in the webs. See Fig. 7.
purpose chassis or temperature-resistant
grease (Meritor O-616A, O-617A,
O-617B, O-645, or O-692):
• Lubricate the cam rollers on the
journals where they touch the brake
shoe webs.
• Lubricate the anchor pins where
they touch the brake shoe webs.
1.2 Place the upper brake shoe in position on 1 A
the upper anchor pin. Hold the lower
brake shoe vertically against the lower
anchor pin and install two new brake
shoe retaining springs to link the upper
and lower brake shoes. See Fig. 5.
08/09/94 f420687a
A. Squeeze the ears of the retainer together.
1. Brake Shoe Webs
08/09/94 f420689a
A. Push the retainer until the ears lock in the holes.
1. Web Hole
WARNING
When work is being done on a spring chamber,
carefully follow the service instructions of the
chamber manufacturer. The sudden release of a
compressed spring can cause serious personal
injury.
6. If the brakes have spring chambers, carefully
release the springs.
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
7. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation
before you put the vehicle in service.
7.1 Apply and release the brakes several
times to check for air leaks and proper
operation of the slack adjusters.
7.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
proper parts replacement and full vehicle
control.
WARNING A B
Inspection
12/10/97 f421676
1. Remove the brake shoes using the instructions A. Cracks exceeding 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) in length.
in Subject 110. B. Cracks or voids exceeding 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in
width.
2. Check the linings.
2.1 If the linings are grease- or oil-soaked, Fig. 1, Cracks and Voids
cracked, or worn to less than 1/4-inch
(6.4-mm) thickness at any point, replace
them.
CAUTION
Do not let the brake linings wear to the point
were the rivets or bolts touch the drums. Damage
to the drums will occur if the linings are allowed A
to wear to this point.
2.2 Replace the linings if the lining surface is 12/23/97 f421677
closer than 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to any A. Exposed fastening device.
rivet head.
Fig. 2, Portions of Brake Lining Missing
If bolts are installed, the linings should
not be allowed to wear to the point where
rivets or bolts may contact the brake A
drums.
2.3 The lining is considered worn-out and the
vehicle should not be driven if:
• Cracks on the lining surface exceed
1/16 inch (1.6 mm).
• The lining edge shows cracks or
voids over 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in
width and 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) in
12/10/97 f421678
length. See Fig. 1.
A. Cracks extending through the lining edge.
• Portions of the lining are missing
exposing a rivet when viewed from Fig. 3, Cracks in the Brake Lining
the edge. See Fig. 2.
2.4 The vehicle is still operational but the lin-
• Cracks extend across the lining ings should be replaced as soon as pos-
face and through the lining edge, or sible if:
the lining is loose on the shoe. See
Fig. 3. • Horizontal or vertical cracks in the
lining edge exhibit no loss of mate-
A A
12/23/97 f421692
A. Cracks extending from hole to hole.
12/23/97 f421691
A
A. Corner segment is missing but no fastener is
08/09/94 f420068a
exposed.
A. 12-7/8 inches (327 mm) maximum
Fig. 5, Portions of the Brake Lining Missing
Fig. 7, Measuring the Shoe Span
• Surface cracks extend from hole to
hole or if there is scoring and con-
tamination from road debris. See
Fig. 6.
3. Check the brake shoes for bent or cracked webs
or tables, rust, broken welds, expanded or out-of-
round rivet or bolt holes, and correct alignment.
Replace the shoes if any of these conditions ex-
ist.
4. Check the brake shoes for visible wear (loose-
ness) at the anchor pin holes and the camshaft
roller recesses. Replace the shoe if needed.
Pre-Adjustment Checks and The specific procedure for adjusting the brake cham-
ber stroke at the slack adjuster’s manual adjusting
General Adjustment nut may vary, depending on which slack adjuster is
installed, but there are three basic steps in complet-
Information ing a manual brake chamber stroke adjustment:
Before adjusting the brakes, check and adjust the 1. Adjusting the approximate brake chamber stroke
following: using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
• Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, juster (coarse adjustment).
see Section 33.01 or Section 35.01 of this 2. Measuring and adjusting the free-stroke.
manual.
3. Measuring and adjusting the applied chamber
• Check the slack adjuster and the brake cham- stroke (fine adjustment).
ber for loose fasteners and tighten as neces-
sary. For torque specifications, see Specifica- The stroke (free or applied chamber) is the distance
tions 400. that the large clevis pin moves when the brakes are
applied. The type of force used to move the slack
For slack adjuster installation instructions, see adjuster from its released position to its applied posi-
the appropriate section in this group. tion (where the brake linings contact the brake drum)
Brakes with automatic slack adjusters should never distinguishes the free-stroke from the applied cham-
have to be manually adjusted while in service. The ber stroke.
only time automatic slack adjusters should be manu- • The free-stroke is measured using a lever to
ally adjusted is during installation or after the brakes move the slack adjuster. The length of the free-
have been relined. stroke equals the clearance between the brake
For cam brakes, there are two brake chamber stroke linings and the drum when the brakes are not
measurement specifications: applied chamber stroke applied.
and free-stroke. • The applied chamber stroke is measured using
an 80 to 90 psi (550 to 620 kPa) brake appli-
IMPORTANT: The U.S. Department of Transpor- cation to move the slack adjuster.
tation (DOT) Federal Highway Administration
has issued the applied chamber stroke specifi- With the engine off, 100 psi (689 kPa) of air tank
cations for cam brakes. When the applied pressure will apply the required 80 to 90 psi (550 to
620 kPa) brake application for measuring the applied
chamber stroke is checked and adjusted, it must
chamber stroke.
not be greater than the DOT specification. See
Table 1.
The applied chamber stroke measurement can be with a retaining clip. If the boot is torn or
used for diagnostic purposes. A stroke that is too cracked, see the appropriate section in this
long or too short may indicate excessive wear in the group for slack adjuster disassembly and inspec-
cam, cam bushings, return springs, or air chamber. tion procedures.
The applied chamber stroke should always be ad-
justed (minimized) to within the specified limit, but it CAUTION
should not be reduced to the point where the free-
stroke is too short and the brakes drag. To check for Before turning the manual adjusting nut on the
brake drag, spin the wheel end, tap the rim lightly slack adjuster, disengage the pull-pawl. Failure to
with a hammer, and listen for a drag noise (a sharp do so could damage the pull-pawl teeth. A dam-
ringing sound). aged pull-pawl will not allow the slack adjuster to
automatically adjust the brake clearance.
Adjustment 5. Using a screwdriver, pry the pull-pawl button out
at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to disengage the pull-
pawl teeth from the slack adjuster actuator. See
Meritor Automatic Slack Adjuster Fig. 1. Wedge the screwdriver in place. The pull-
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see pawl will need to be disengaged until the brake
adjustment is complete.
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust-
ment information at the beginning of this sub- NOTE: When the screwdriver is removed, the
ject. pull-pawl will engage automatically.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the 6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
parking brakes, and shut down the engine. juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re- adjustment). See Fig. 2.
paired.
6.1 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise
2. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety until the brake linings touch the brake
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the drum.
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut clockwise 1/2
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push- turn.
rod must be fully retracted).
7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke.
4. Check the condition of the boot on the slack ad-
juster. It should be held in the correct position
A
A B
10/20/93 f420182a
09/27/94 f420693a NOTE: For either free-stroke or applied chamber stroke,
A. Insert screwdriver here. subtract measurement A from B.
A. Measurement with the brakes released.
Fig. 1, Disengage the Pull-Pawl B. Measurement with the brakes applied by manual
lever (free-stroke) or pressurized brake application
(applied chamber stroke).
WARNING 2
11. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- Fig. 4, Installation Indicator
tions, see Subject 110.
5. Measure how much torque is required to over-
come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter-
Haldex Automatic Slack Adjuster nal clutch slippage).
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see 5.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust- adjusting nut counterclockwise. See
ment information at the beginning of this sub- Fig. 5. You will hear a ratcheting sound.
ject.
5.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m), the slack adjuster must
parking brakes, and shut down the engine. be replaced.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired. 6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety adjustment).
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. 6.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the
brake linings contact the brake drum.
B
A
10/17/95 f420699a
1. Adjusting Hexnut 07/05/1995 f420757b
6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut counterclock- Fig. 6, Measure the Stroke
wise 1/2 turn. You will hear a ratcheting
8.2 Fully apply the brakes. Then, measure the
sound.
distance from the bottom of the brake
7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke. chamber to the far side of the clevis pin
hole. See Fig. 6, Ref. B. Record this mea-
7.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of surement as dimension C.
the brake chamber to the far side of the
clevis pin. See Fig. 6. Record this mea- 8.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension C.
surement as dimension A. The difference between these measure-
ments is the applied chamber stroke.
7.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster un-
til the brake linings contact the brake 8.4 The applied chamber stroke must not ex-
drum. Then, measure the distance from ceed the maximum value specified in
the bottom of the brake chamber to the far Table 1. If the stroke is not correct, turn
side of the clevis pin. See Fig. 6. Record the adjusting nut in the required direction.
this measurement as dimension B. Then, measure the applied chamber
stroke again and readjust it until it is cor-
7.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension B. rect.
The difference between these measure-
ments is the free-stroke. 8.5 If the slack adjuster does not maintain the
correct applied chamber stroke, check the
7.4 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch condition of the foundation brakes. See
(16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust- Subject 150. If necessary, replace the
ing nut in the required direction. Then, slack adjuster.
measure the free-stroke again and read-
just it until it is correct. 9. Lower the vehicle, remove the safety stands, and
remove the chocks from the tires.
8. Measure and adjust the applied chamber stroke
(fine adjustment).
8.1 Start the engine and build the air pressure
to 100 psi (689 kPa). Shut down the en-
gine.
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been checked for proper operation. To do so 4
5
could result in inadequate or no braking ability,
which could cause personal injury or death, and
6
property damage.
10. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- 7
tions, see Subject 110. 3
8
Gunite Automatic Slack Adjuster
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see 2
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust- 9
ment information at the beginning of this sub-
ject.
1
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re- 10
paired.
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
10/27/93 f420653a
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push- 1. Adjusting Hexnut 6. Clevis
rod must be fully retracted). 2. Grease Fitting 7. Clevis Pin, 1/2-in
3. Boot 8. Clevis Pin, 1/4-in
4. Measure how much torque is required to over- 4. Link 9. Grease Relief
come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter- 5. Brake Chamber Opening
nal clutch slippage). Pushrod 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
4.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the Fig. 7, Gunite Slack Adjuster
adjusting nut counterclockwise. See
Fig. 7. You will hear a ratcheting sound. 6.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of
the brake chamber to the center of the
4.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than
large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m), the slack adjuster must
measurement as dimension A.
be replaced.
6.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster un-
5. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
til the brake linings contact the brake
juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
drum.
adjustment).
6.3 Measure the distance from the bottom of
5.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the
the brake chamber to the center of the
brake linings contact the brake drum.
large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
5.2 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise measurement as dimension B.
1/2 turn. There should be about 30 lbf·ft
6.4 Subtract dimension A from dimension B.
(41 N·m) resistance. You will hear a ratch-
The difference between these measure-
eting sound.
ments is the free-stroke.
6. Measure and adjust the free-stroke.
6.5 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch
(16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust-
WARNING A
12
CAUTION 9 8 5 4
10 1
Drilling out rivets or cutting off rivet heads with a 6 2
11 4
chisel can cause the rivet hole to become out-of- 7 3 1
round, which could damage the brake shoe. 2 5
3
3.1 If the lining blocks are riveted, use a suit- 6 8
able riveting mandrel to push out the old A 11
9
rivets. 7 10
B
B 12
If the lining blocks are bolted, remove the
bolts, lockwashers, and nuts.
3.2 Separate the lining blocks from the brake A
shoes. 09/27/94 f420069a
4. Check the brake shoes for rust, expanded rivet NOTE: The numbers represent the fastening sequence.
or bolt holes, broken welds, and incorrect align- A. Toe B. Heel
ment. Replace the shoes if any of these condi-
tions exist. Fig. 3, Rivet and Bolt Fastening Sequence
5. If necessary, clean each brake shoe with solvent • Tighten 3/8-inch brass bolts 18 to
and wire brush the shoe table. Then, paint the 23 lbf·ft (24 to 31 N·m).
brake shoe with rust-inhibitive paint. • Tighten 1/4-inch brass bolts 80 to
6. Install the lining blocks on the brake shoes. 100 lbf·in (900 to 1120 N·cm).
IMPORTANT: Use rivets that have the cor- 7. Check the lining installation by trying to insert a
rect material, shank diameter, length, head 0.010-inch (0.25-mm) feeler gauge along the
edges between the linings and the shoe table.
size, and shape. Use tubular rivets that are See Fig. 4.
1/4-inch diameter by 9/16-inch long, SAE no.
10, made of plated steel or brass. It should not be possible to insert the feeler
gauge anywhere along the edge, except beyond
6.1 If the lining blocks are riveted, align the the last row of rivets at each end. A larger clear-
brake shoe rivet holes with the corre- ance of up to 0.025 inch (0.64 mm) can exist at
sponding lining block holes. Using a the ends. See Fig. 5.
C-clamp, clamp the lining block to the
brake shoe. 8. Circle-grind the brake lining to get the correct
lining-to-drum contact.
Insert the correct size rivets in all the
holes. Hold the rivets in place temporarily 8.1 With the cam in the full-release position,
with masking tape. grind the new brake linings 0.070 inch
(1.8 mm) less than the drum diameter.
Fasten the rivets (from the lining block to
the brake shoe) in the sequence shown in 8.2 Adjust the cam and grind the lining until
Fig. 3. there is an 80 percent lining-to-drum con-
tact, which must be continuous and in the
6.2 If the lining blocks are bolted, align the center of the lining.
brake shoe bolt holes with the corre-
sponding lining block holes. Using a 9. Install the brake shoes, see Subject 110 for in-
C-clamp, clamp the lining block to the structions.
brake shoe.
Insert the correct size bolts and new lock-
washers into all the holes and threads.
Loosely install all the nuts, then tighten
them in the sequence shown in Fig. 3.
09/27/94 f420164a
09/27/94 f420717a
A. The clearance between the shoe table and the
ends of the brake lining can be up to 0.025 inch
(0.64 mm).
Disassembly and Inspection 1. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions see
Subject 110.
22
4
2
9
1
10 12
7
3 11
3 15
20 17
23
24 13
5 14
16
16
21 6
19
4 18
15
7
12/11/97 f421684
22
4
2
8
11
1
9 13
7
15 10
3 3 17
12
24 19
27
28 14
5 16
18
25
23 6
21 20
4
26
7
12/12/97 f421685
NOTE: 16-1/2 inch Q Plus MX500 brake with cast spider shown.
1. Anchor Pin 11. Washer (spacer) 20. Pipe Plug
2. Anchor Pin Bushing 12. Washer (thin spacer) 21. Chamber Bracket Seal
3. Retaining Spring 13. Orange Seal, Automatic Slack 22. Brake Spider, Cast
4. Brake Shoe and Lining Assembly Adjuster 23. Return Spring Pin
5. Cam Roller 14. Automatic Slack Adjuster 24. Return Spring
6. Roller Retainer 15. Seal, Automatic Slack Adjuster 25. Camshaft Bushing, 1-5/8 in. ID
7. Capscrew, Chamber Bracket 16. Washer (thick spacer) 26. Orange Camshaft Seal
8. Capscrew, Dust Shield 17. Camshaft Seal 27. Camhead Thrustwasher
9. Dust Shield 18. Camshaft Bushing, 1-1/2 in. ID 28. S-Head Camshaft
10. Camshaft Snap Ring 19. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
8
3
5
2
6
7 11
13
1 10 15
9
4 17
19 12
4
27 8 14
26
28 16
6 18
3 23 20
25 7
21
5 22
24
9
12/12/97 f421686
NOTE: 16-1/2 inch drive axle Q Plus MX500 brake with stamped spider shown.
1. Anchor Pin 11. Capscrew, Dust Shield 20. Camshaft Bushing, 1-1/2 in. ID
2. Brake Spider, Stamped 12. Camshaft Snap Ring 21. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
3. Hexnut (4 qty.) 13. Washer (spacer) 22. Pipe Plug
4. Retaining Spring 14. Washer (thin spacer) 23. Camshaft Bushing, 1-5/8 in. ID
5. Brake Shoe and Lining Assembly 15. Orange Seal, Automatic Slack 24. Orange Camshaft Seal
6. Cam Roller Adjuster 25. Return Spring Pin
7. Retainer 16. Automatic Slack Adjuster 26. Return Spring
8. Washer, Hardened (4 qty.) 17. Seal, Automatic Slack Adjuster 27. Camhead Thrustwasher
9. Bolt (4 qty.) 18. Washer (thick spacer) 28. S-Head Camshaft
10. Dust Shield 19. Camshaft Seal
3.3 Using a wrench, turn the manual adjust- 4.1 Using a dial indicator, measure the up-
ing nut to back the slack adjuster out of and-down and side-to-side free play of
the clevis. the camshaft.
• On Meritor adjustors, turn the 4.2 Replace the camshaft bushings if there is
square adjusting nut clockwise (as more than 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) of free
if loosening a right-hand threaded play.
fastener). 5. Remove the slack adjuster.
4
5
B
6
7
A 3
8
2 9
06/23/94 f420690a
1
A. Check for diameter and out-of-round.
B. Check for cracks, heat checks, glazing, and
grooves. 10
Fig. 4, Brake Drum Inspection
5.1 From the slack adjuster side of the
camshaft-and-chamber bracket, remove
the snap ring and any washers, spacers, 10/27/93 f420653a
and seals from the camshaft. For instruc- NOTE: Gunite automatic slack adjuster shown.
tions, see the appropriate section in this
group. 1. Adjusting Hexnut 6. Clevis
2. Grease Fitting 7. Clevis Pin, 1/2-in
5.2 Remove the slack adjuster from the cam- 3. Boot 8. Clevis Pin, 1/4-in
shaft. 4. Link 9. Grease Relief
5. Brake Chamber Opening
6. Inspect the slack adjuster for damage or binding. Pushrod 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
6.1 Check the slack adjuster clevis for cracks Fig. 5, Disconnect Slack Adjuster from Clevis
or bushing wear. Check the splines for
chipped teeth and deformation. Replace If there is binding, or if more than 25 lbf·in
as needed. (280 N·cm) is needed to turn the slack
adjuster, replace it. For instructions, see
NOTE: For a Haldex or a Gunite automatic the applicable slack adjuster section in
slack adjuster, there is an internal clutch that this group.
resists the manual adjusting nut from being
turned in the counterclockwise direction. IMPORTANT: If any slack adjuster problem is
When checking these slack adjusters for found, repair or replace the unit, depending on
binding, only rotate the manual adjusting nut the manufacturer’s recommendations.
in the clockwise direction. 7. Remove the camshaft by grasping its head and
pulling the camshaft outboard from the brake spi-
6.2 Using a torque wrench that measures
der and camshaft-and-chamber bracket. See
lbf·in (or N·cm), turn the manual adjusting
Fig. 8. Then, remove the thrustwasher from the
nut clockwise so that the worm gear ro-
camshaft.
tates a full 360 degrees (typically 22 turns
of the wrench).
Fig. 6, Disengage the Pull-Pawl on Meritor Automatic inspect the camshaft grease seals. If a grease
Slack Adjusters seal lip is nicked, cut, or distorted, replace it.
WARNING
When removing bushings with a driver, wear eye
protection. Do not hit steel parts with a steel
hammer. To do so could cause steel pieces to
break off, which could cause serious eye injury.
12. Using the correct size driver, remove the cam-
shaft bushings from the camshaft-and-chamber
bracket.
13. Check the camshaft bushings for wear. The inner
surface must be smooth; if rough or abrasive,
replace the bushings.
12/11/97 f421680 14. Remove the brake chamber stud nuts and lock-
washers that attach the brake chamber to the
Fig. 7, Check Free Play camshaft-and-chamber bracket.
8. Check the camshaft spline end for cracks, corro- Check the chamber for a cracked housing, bent
sion, or worn or deformed splines. Replace the pushrod, loose clamp ring, loose air fitting, air
camshaft if it is damaged. leaks, or clogged vent holes. Repair or replace
brake chamber parts as needed.
9. Check the camshaft bearing journals for wear or
corrosion. Replace the camshaft if it is worn or if 15. Remove and inspect the camshaft-and-chamber
roughness is felt in the journal area. bracket. Remove and discard the gasket.
10. Inspect the camshaft head for brinelling, crack- Check the bracket for a bent, broken, or cracked
ing, or flat spots. Replace the camshaft if a ridge arm and cracked welds. Replace the bracket if
can be felt between the worn area and the cam any of these conditions exist.
head surface.
16. Remove the brake spider-to-axle attaching nuts,
11. From the brake spider and slack adjuster ends of hardened washers, and bolts. Remove the brake
the camshaft-and-chamber bracket, remove and spider from the axle flange.
after they have been cleaned, dried, and Place the brake spider on the axle flange. Install
inspected to protect them from corrosion. the mounting fasteners with hardened washers
under the bolt head and nut. Tighten the nuts to
If the parts will be stored, apply a special the specifications in Table 1 in a cross pattern.
material that prevents corrosion and rust See Fig. 9.
on all surfaces. The parts should be
stored in special paper (or other material)
that prevents corrosion and rust.
Assembly
WARNING
Before starting the assembly procedure, read the
information in Safety Precautions 100. Failure to
be aware of the dangers of brake lining dust ex-
posure could result in serious and permanent 12/10/97 f421673
health damage.
Fig. 9, Tighten the Brake Spider Fasteners
1. Install the dust shield, if equipped. See Fig. 1, 3. Install the camshaft-and-chamber bracket.
Fig. 2, or Fig. 3.
Place the camshaft-and-chamber bracket and
Position the dust shield against the brake spider gasket against the brake spider and install the
and install the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews lockwashers and fasteners. Tighten the fasteners
to the specifications in Table 1. to the specifications in Table 1.
2. Install the brake spider.
4.3 Tighten the brake chamber fasteners to Fig. 10, Install the Seals and Bushings
the specifications in Table 2.
IMPORTANT: The grease seals are installed in
both the brake spider and slack adjuster ends of
the camshaft-and-chamber bracket. The grease
seals must be installed with their lips toward the
slack adjuster end of the camshaft-and-chamber
bracket tube. 1 1
NOTE: To maximize lining life, Meritor recom- 2
mends replacing the springs, rollers, anchor
pins, and camshaft bushings when the linings 3
are replaced. For Q Plus brakes with MX500
identification tags, if replacing the linings before
the recommended service interval (3 years or
500,000 miles [800 000 km]), the camshaft
06/23/94 f420685a
bushings and the seals do not need to be re-
placed. NOTE: The seal faces the slack adjuster.
1. Seal Lip
5. Using a seal driver, install the camshaft seals 2. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
and the new camshaft bushings in the brake spi- 3. Brake Spider
der and slack adjuster ends of the camshaft-and-
chamber bracket. See Fig. 10. Install the seals Fig. 11, Positioning the Seals
with their lips toward the slack adjuster. See
Fig. 11.
6. Install the camshaft. See Fig. 12.
6.1 Put the cam head thrustwasher on the
camshaft with the bent flaps toward the
brake spider.
12/10/97 f421672
6.2 Apply a thin film of grease on the inside 7. Install the slack adjuster. For instructions, see
of the camshaft bushings and journals. the appropriate section in this group.
For the recommended grease specifica-
tion, see Specifications 400. Do not WARNING
grease the camshaft head area.
6.3 Apply a thin film of rust preventive grease When lubricating the camshaft-and-chamber
on the camshaft splines. For the recom- bracket, if grease leaks out under the cam head,
mended grease specification, see Speci- the camshaft grease seal is worn or damaged. If
fications 400. the seal is not replaced, the brake linings could
be contaminated by grease and the vehicle’s
6.4 Carefully slip the camshaft in the brake stopping distance could be increased, which
spider and the camshaft-and-chamber could result in personal injury or property dam-
bracket tube. The camshaft should turn age.
freely by hand.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—No Adjustment, or Adjusted Stroke is Too Long
Problem—No Adjustment, or Adjusted Stroke is Too Long
Possible Cause Remedy
The wrong slack adjuster is installed. Replace the slack adjuster with the correct one.
The clevis is not installed correctly. Check the slack adjuster installation. For instructions, see the appropriate
slack adjuster section in this group.
There is excessive wear between the Check the gap between the clevis and the collar. The maximum allowable gap
clevis and collar. is 0.060 inch (1.5 mm). Replace the threaded clevis as necessary.
The jam nut at the clevis is loose. Tighten the jam nut to specifications.
The large clevis pin bushing in the slack Measure the inside diameter of the large clevis pin bushing. The inside
adjuster arm is worn. diameter must not be larger than 0.53 inch (13.5 mm). Replace the bushing
as necessary.
The return spring in the air chamber is Check the air chamber spring force. At the first movement of the push rod, the
weak or broken. spring force must be at least 32 lbf (142.3 N). Replace the return spring or air
chamber as necessary.
The spring brake is not fully retracting. Repair or replace the spring brake.
The pull-pawl or the actuator is worn (the Replace the pull-pawl or the actuator in the slack adjuster.
teeth are stripped).
The slack adjuster has internal damage. Inspect the slack adjuster. Repair or replace the slack adjuster as necessary.
For instructions, see the appropriate slack adjuster section in this group.
There is excessive play between the slack Replace the camshaft and/or the slack adjuster as necessary.
adjuster gear and the splines of the
camshaft.
Foundation brake components are worn. Replace the components.
Component Lubrication
Meritor Grease Specification
Brake Type Camshaft Brake Shoe Camshaft Slack
Clevis Pins Anchor Pins
Splines Rollers Bushings Adjusters
O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616A
O-637 O-617-A O-617-A O-617-A O-617-A O-645
O-641 O-617-B O-617-B O-617-B O-617-B O-692
All Cam-Master Brakes
O-645 O-637 O-645 O-645 O-645
Except Q Plus MX500
O-692 O-641 O-692 O-692 O-692
O-645
O-692
O-695 O-695 O-617-A O-617-A O-616-A O-695
O-617-B O-617-B O-617-A
Q Plus MX500 Brakes O-645 O-617-B
O-692 O-645
O-692
Table 4, Component Lubrication
9
8
5 11 12
6
10
7
19
18 16
17 15
14 13
A 21
20
1
08/28/2001 f422262
9
8
5 11 12
6
10
7
20
19 16
17 15
18 14
13 22
A
21
1
08/28/2001 f422263
WARNING Installation
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. 1. Install the delivery check valve and governor
Failure to do so may result in personal injury. onto the air dryer. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 130.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 2. If removed, install the desiccant cartridge. For
the engine, apply the parking brake, and chock instructions, see Subject 120.
the tires.
3. Install the air dryer, making sure the two O-rings
2. Drain the air reservoirs, including the purge res- are installed between the air dryer and air reser-
ervoir drain valve located under the air dryer. voir. Use the three capscrews to fasten the air
3. Mark and remove the air lines from the air reser- dryer to the reservoir. Tighten the capscrews 30
voir. to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m). See Fig. 1.
IMPORTANT: It may be necessary to remove 4. Connect the air lines and plug the wiring harness
the air reservoir to replace the air dryer. For in- into the heater/thermostat assembly.
structions on air reservoir removal, see Sub- 5. Perform the operational tests in Subject 170.
ject 160.
4. Unplug the wiring harness from the heater/
thermostat assembly.
5. Remove the three capscrews fastening the air
dryer to the air reservoir. See Fig. 1.
1
06/08/98 f421935
2
3
04/16/98 f421910
1. Desiccant Cartridge 3. Threaded Base Post
2. Cartridge Sealing
Ring
2 3
9
8
7
4
6
5
04/09/98 f430116
1. Air Dryer Base 4. Capscrews 7. Spring
2. Gasket 5. Adaptor 8. Check Valve Body
3. Governor 6. O-Ring 9. O-Ring
1 3
2
05/04/98 f421924
1 3
2 4
04/13/98
5 f430117
1. Retaining Ring
2. Heater/Thermostat Connector Plug
3. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
4. O-Ring
5. Air Dryer Body
Replacement
1
NOTE: The air reservoirs are mounted in vari-
ous locations, depending on the vehicle configu- 2
ration. The reservoirs are typically mounted
under the driver’s-side steps or along the frame
rail, behind the cab.
3
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
2. Drain the air reservoirs, including the purge res-
ervoir drain valve located under the air dryer.
4
3. Mark and disconnect all reservoir air lines and
couplers for later assembly. Cap the exposed
ports tightly to keep out contaminants. If access
is limited, remove the components after removing 09/19/2001 f430276
the reservoir from its mount. 1. Stair and Reservoir Mounting Bracket
4. Remove the reservoir. 2. Nut
3. U-Bolt Mounting Strap
• If the reservoir is mounted under the driv- 4. Air Reservoir
ers steps, remove the nuts securing the
u-bolt straps and remove the reservoir Fig. 1, Air Reservoir (mounted under driver’s steps)
(Fig. 1). Then, remove the air dryer. For
instructions, see Subject 110. 7. Perform operational test in Subject 170.
• If the reservoir is installed along the frame 8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
rail using a strap fastener, remove the air
dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
Then, remove the reservoir strap fasteners
and remove the reservoir.
NOTE: If access is limited, connect all air lines
and couplers to the new reservoir, removing the
caps as each component is installed.
5. If the reservoirs are mounted under the driver’s
steps, install the air dryer onto the new reservoir
and install the reservoir. Secure the U-bolt straps
with the nuts. See Fig. 1.
If the reservoir is installed along the frame rail
using a strap fastener, install the reservoir using
the straps. Tighten the fasteners 30 to 40 lbf·ft
(41 to 54 N·m). Tighten the lower strap fastener
136 lbf·ft (184 N·m). Then, install the air dryer.
For instructions, see Subject 110.
6. As marked earlier, connect all air lines and cou-
plers to the new reservoir, removing the caps as
each component is installed. Tighten the connec-
tions as instructed elsewhere in this group.
Install the air dryer. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 110.
5.4 Carefully remove the air dryer cartridge 8.2 Test the thermostat and heater operation.
using a strap wrench and then test for air Turn off the ignition switch and cool the
thermostat and heater assembly to below
40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter, check
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Air Dryer is Constantly Purging (Cycling) or Purging Excessively
Problem—Air Dryer is Constantly Purging (Cycling) or Purging Excessively
Possible Cause Remedy
There is excessive system leakage. Using a soap-and-water solution, test for leakage at the air line fittings, drain
cock (or valve), and system valves. Repair or replace as necessary.
NOTE: A drop of 3 psi (21 kPa) in system air pressure per minute is normal.
The application air lines are leaking Check the application air line, brake valve, and the service and parking brake
excessively. chambers for air leaks. Repair or replace the damaged component(s).
The delivery check valve leaking Replace the Check Valve. See Subject 130.
excessively.
The compressor unloader O-rings are Troubleshoot the compressor. See Group 13.
leaking excessively.
Defective Governor Replace the governor. See Subject 130.
Problem—Desiccant Material is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust
Problem—Desiccant Material is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust
Possible Cause Remedy
The air dryer is not securely mounted. Replace the air dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
The desiccant cartridge is saturated or Replace the air dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
malfunctioning.
The compressor is passing excessive oil. Troubleshoot the compressor. See Group 13. If necessary, replace the air
dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
4 4
5 5
6 6
7 7
3 3
2 8 2 8
1 9 1 9
A B
11/08/2001 f430289
A. Extended Purge Air Dryer
B. Standard Air Dryer
1. Delivery Port 4. Upper Bracket 7. Lower Bracket
2. Check Valve Assembly 5. Outer Shell 8. Supply Port
3. End Cover 6. Control Port 9. Wiring Harness
The AD-9 air dryer consists of the desiccant cartridge The AD-9 has three female pipe thread air connec-
and a die-cast aluminum end cover secured to a cy- tions; each is identified as follows in Table 1.
lindrical steel outer shell with eight capscrews and
nuts. The end cover contains a check valve assem- Port I.D. Function/Connection
bly, a safety valve, three threaded air connections
Control Port (purge valve control and turbo
and the purge valve housing assembly. The remov- 4-CON
cutoff)
able purge valve housing assembly features a purge
valve mechanism and a turbocharger cutoff that are 11-SUP Supply Port (air in)
designed to prevent loss of engine turbo boost pres- 2-DEL Delivery Port (air out)
sure during the purge cycle of the air dryer.
Table 1, Air Dryer Port Identification
To ease servicing, the desiccant cartridge and dis-
charge check valve assembly are screw-in types.
The standard air dryer (Fig. 2) uses a metal seat After exiting the end cover, air flows into the desic-
turbo cutoff valve. The function of the metal seat is to cant cartridge. Once in the cartridge, air first flows
prevent turbocharger boost pressure loss through the through an oil separator, which removes water, oil, oil
air dryer during the purge (compressor unloaded) vapor, and solid contaminants.
mode. Some low level turbo air leakage can occur in
Air exits the oil separator and enters the desiccant
the unloaded mode.
2
D D
5
1 3
C
S D
4 S
05/04/95 f421343
Principles of Operation drying bed. Air flowing through the column of desic-
cant becomes progressively drier as water vapor
sticks to the desiccant material in a process known
The AD-9 air dryer alternates between two opera-
as adsorption. The desiccant cartridge, using the ad-
tional modes or cycles during operation: the charge
sorption process typically removes 95 percent of the
cycle and the purge cycle.
water vapor from the pressurized air.
Charge Cycle Most of the dry air exits the desiccant cartridge
through its integral single check valve to fill the purge
When the compressor is loaded (compressing air), volume between the desiccant cartridge and outer
pressurized air, along with oil, oil vapor, water, and shell. Some air also exits the desiccant cartridge
water vapor flow through the compressor discharge through the purge orifice adjacent to the check valve.
line to the supply port of the air dryer end cover. As
air travels through the end-cover assembly, its direc- Dry air flows out of the purge volume through the
tion of flow changes several times, reducing the tem- single check valve assembly and out the delivery
perature, causing contaminants to condense and port to the first (supply) reservoir of the air system.
drop to the bottom or sump of the air dryer end The air dryer remains in the charge cycle until air
cover. See Fig. 3. brake system pressure builds to the governor cutout
setting.
2 3
1
18 4
17
14 15 16
5
12 11
6
7
13 10
9 8
05/26/95 f420541a
1. Desiccant Cartridge 7. Sump 13. Reservoir
2. Check Valve 8. Heater Element 14. Governor
3. Orifice 9. Exhaust 15. Compressor
4. Purge Volume 10. Purge Valve 16. Control Port
5. Check Valve Assembly 11. Supply Port 17. Oil Separator
6. Delivery Port 12. Engine Turbocharger 18. Desiccant Bed
Purge Cycle the supply of air from the compressor. This is further
discussed under "Turbocharger Cutoff Feature."
When the brake system pressure reaches the gover-
Contaminants in the end cover sump are expelled
nor cutout setting, the compressor unloads (air com-
immediately when the purge valve opens. Also, air
pression stopped), and the purge cycle of the air
that was flowing through the desiccant cartridge
dryer begins. See Fig. 4. When the governor unloads
changes direction and begins to flow toward the
the compressor, it pressurizes the unloader mecha-
open purge valve. Oil and solid contaminants col-
nism and line connecting the governor unloader port
lected by the oil separator are removed by air flowing
to the AD-9 end cover control port. The purge piston
from the desiccant drying bed to the open purge
moves in response to air pressure causing the purge
valve.
valve to open to atmosphere and partially close off
3
2
1
19
18
15 16 17
5
13 12
7
11 10 6
8
14
05/09/95 9 f420542a
1. Desiccant Cartridge 8. Heater Element 14. Reservoir
2. Check Valve 9. Exhaust 15. Governor
3. Orifice 10. Purge Valve 16. Compressor
4. Purge Volume 11. Turbocharger Cutoff Piston 17. Control Port
5. Check Valve Assembly 12. Supply Port 18. Oil Separator
6. Delivery Port 13. Engine Turbocharger 19. Desiccant Bed
7. Sump
The initial purge and desiccant cartridge decompres- cant material by removing the water vapor sticking to
sion last only a few seconds and are signaled by an it. Generally, it takes 15 to 30 seconds for the entire
audible burst of air at the AD-9 exhaust. The actual purge volume of a standard AD-9 to flow through the
reactivation of the desiccant drying bed begins as dry desiccant drying bed.
air flows from the purge volume through the desic-
The end cover single check valve assembly prevents
cant cartridge purge orifice and into the desiccant
compressed air in the brake system from returning to
drying bed. Pressurized air from the purge volume
the air dryer during the purge cycle. After the 30 sec-
expands after passing through the purge orifice; its
ond purge cycle is complete, the air dryer is ready
pressure is lowered and its volume increased. Dry air
for the next charge cycle to begin.
flowing through the drying bed reactivates the desic-
The purge valve will remain open after the purge At the beginning of the purge cycle, the downward
cycle is complete, and will not close until air brake travel of the purge piston is stopped when the turbo
system pressure is reduced and the governor signals cutoff valve (tapered portion of the purge piston) con-
the compressor to charge. tacts its mating metal seat in the purge valve hous-
ing. With the turbo cutoff valve seated (closed posi-
NOTE: The air dryer should be periodically
tion), air in the discharge line and AD-9 supply port is
checked for operation and tested for leaks. restricted from entering the air dryer. While the turbo
Refer to Group 42 of the Business Class M2 cutoff effectively prevents loss of turbocharger boost
Maintenance Manual for intervals and proce- pressure to the engine, some seepage of air may be
dures. detected under certain conditions of compressor, en-
gine, and turbocharger operation. Even so, there will
Turbocharger Cutoff Feature be low pressure trapped in the discharge line.
Primarily, the turbo cutoff valve prevents loss of en-
gine turbocharger air pressure through the AD-9 in
systems where the compressor intake is connected
to the engine turbocharger. The turbo cutoff valve
also reduces the puffing of air out the open exhaust
when a naturally aspirated, single cylinder compres-
sor equipped with an inlet check valve is in use. See
Fig. 5.
3 5
6
2 4
09/16/94 f420543a
1. Supply Port 4. Exhaust
2. Delivery Line 5. Purge Valve
3. Turbocharger Cutoff 6. Check Valve
Piston Assembly
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Depleting air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Don’t disassemble a component until you have
read and understood the service procedures.
Some components contain powerful springs, and
injury can result if not properly disassembled.
Use the correct tools, and observe all precau-
tions pertaining to use of those tools.
5. Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or suspend-
ing devices are installed or replaced.
6. Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining should
not be attempted.
3.2 Unplug the vehicle wiring harness from 2. Test the air dryer following instructions in Group
the heater and thermostat assembly con- 42 of the Business Class® M2 Maintenance
nector on the purge valve housing as- Manual.
sembly.
3.3 Loosen the hexbolt securing the upper
mounting strap.
3.4 Remove, save, and mark the two end
cover capscrews, locknuts, and four spe-
cial washers that retain the lower mount-
ing bracket to the end cover. Also mark
the two holes of the end cover. (These
bolts are longer than the other six bolts.)
3.5 Remove the air dryer from its mounting
brackets.
Installation
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
2
11
3 9
4 25
5 12 10 8
14 10
24
10
10 10
8 10
6
23
13
10 15 22
7
8 21
20
18 19
17
16
08/09/95 f421383
1. 5/16-Inch x 4-1/2-Inch Upper Bracket Capscrew 14. Check Valve Assembly
2. Upper Bracket Strap 15. Purge Valve Assembly
3. 5/16-Inch Lockwasher 16. Purge Valve Bolt
4. 5/16-Inch Locknut 17. Exhaust Diaphragm
5. Upper Mounting Bracket 18. Purge Valve
6. Housing 19. 1/4-Inch Tapping Screw
7. Locknut 20. Purge Valve Housing
8. 3/8-Inch Special Washer 21. Heater and Thermostat Assembly
9. Desiccant Cartridge 22. Return Spring
10. O-Ring 23. Purge Piston
11. Safety Valve 24. 3/8-Inch Capscrew
12. Lower Mounting Bracket 25. End Cover
13. 3/8-Inch Capscrew (Long)
NOTE: As a convenience when rebuilding the 4.2 Gently rotate the electrical connector to
air dryer, several replacement parts and mainte- the left until the thermostat clears the
nance kits are available that do not require full purge valve housing. Then, slide the
disassembly. Use the instructions provided with heater element out, to the right and up.
these parts or kits. Discard the assembly.
5. Disassemble the purge valve housing assembly.
Disassembly See Fig. 1.
5.1 If a flat non-extended exhaust cover is
WARNING used, leave it intact while servicing the
purge valve housing assembly.
Before working on or around air brake systems If an extended type exhaust cover is used
and components, read Safety Precautions 100. for the attachment of an exhaust hose,
Failure to do so could result in personal injury. carefully separate the exhaust cover from
the purge valve housing. Use a thin flat
CAUTION blade to pry the exhaust cover off, taking
care not to damage the potting material
While servicing the air dryer, don’t use a clamp- (RTV sealant) under the cover.
ing device (vise, C-clamp, etc.) to hold any die
cast aluminum part, as damage may result. To 5.2 Remove the bolt from the bottom of the
hold the end cover, install a pipe nipple in the purge valve housing assembly. Remove
supply port, and clamp the nipple in a vise. the diaphragm and the purge valve from
the purge valve housing.
1. Remove the air dryer from the vehicle. See Sub- 5.3 Remove the purge piston, the return
ject 110. spring and two O-rings (one on the out-
2. Remove the check valve assembly and O-ring. side and the other in the inside of the
Remove the O-ring from the check valve assem- purge piston).
bly. See Fig. 1. 6. Remove the remaining six capscrews (Ref. 24),
3. Remove the purge valve housing assembly. See locknuts (Ref. 7), and twelve special washers
Fig. 1. (Ref. 8) that secure the end cover to the housing
(Ref. 6). Separate the end cover and desiccant
3.1 Remove the three self-tapping screws cartridge (Ref. 9) from the housing (Ref. 6). See
that secure the purge valve housing as- Fig. 1.
sembly to the end cover assembly.
7. Remove the end-cover-to-outer-housing O-ring.
3.2 Pull the purge valve housing assembly See Fig. 1.
out of the end cover assembly.
8. Don’t remove the safety valve (Ref. 11) from the
3.3 Remove and discard the three O-rings end cover unless it is known to be inoperative. If
from the exterior of the purge valve hous- replacement is needed, apply thread sealant or
ing assembly. Teflon® tape on the threads of the replacement
valve and tighten 120 to 400 lbf·in (1360 to 4520
NOTE: These O-rings may lodge in and
N·m). Make sure the drain hole (slot) is facing
have to be removed from the end cover down.
bores.
9. Place a strap or chain wrench around the desic-
4. Remove the heater and thermostat assembly. cant cartridge (Ref. 9) so that it is about 2 to 3
See Fig. 1. inches (5 to 8 cm) away from the end cover. Ro-
4.1 Remove and discard the two screws that tate the cartridge counterclockwise until it com-
attach the heater and thermostat assem- pletely separates from the end cover.
bly to the purge valve housing. NOTE: Torque of up to 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) may be
needed to do this disassembly.
2
11
3 9
4 25
5 12 10 8
14 10
24
10
10 10
8 10
6
23
13
10 15 22
7
8 21
20
18 19
17
16
08/09/95 f421383
1. 5/16-Inch x 4-1/2 Inch Upper Bracket Capscrew 14. Check Valve Assembly
2. Upper Bracket Strap 15. Purge Valve Assembly
3. 5/16-Inch Lockwasher 16. Purge Valve Bolt
4. 5/16-Inch Locknut 17. Exhaust Diaphragm
5. Upper Mounting Bracket 18. Purge Valve
6. Housing 19. 1/4-Inch Tapping Screw
7. Locknut 20. Purge Valve Housing
8. 3/8-Inch Special Washer 21. Heater and Thermostat Assembly
9. Desiccant Cartridge 22. Return Spring
10. O-Ring 23. Purge Piston
11. Safety Valve 24. 3/8-Inch Capscrew
12. Lower Mounting Bracket 25. End Cover
13. 3/8-Inch Capscrew (Long)
5. Inspect the pipe threads in the end cover. Make 3. Assemble the purge-valve housing.
sure they are clean and free of thread sealant. 3.1 Install the O-ring on the purge piston.
6. Inspect the purge-valve housing bore and seats Place the return spring in the purge-valve
for excessive wear and scuffing. housing. Place the O-ring in the bore of
the purge piston. Insert the purge piston
7. Inspect the purge valve piston seat for excessive into the spring. Push the piston into the
wear. purge-valve housing until it bottoms.
8. Inspect all air line fittings for corrosion. Clean all 3.2 While holding the purge piston in, install
old thread sealant from the pipe threads. the following parts: the purge valve with
its rubber side first, followed by the dia-
9. Replace all removed O-rings with new ones that
phragm and the bolt. Torque the purge
are provided in the kits.
valve bolt 60 to 80 lbf·in (680 to 900
Replace parts that show any of the conditions N·cm).
described in the previous steps.
3.3 Install the three O-rings in their correct
locations on the purge-valve housing.
Assembly 3.4 If an extended type exhaust cover was
removed, install it on the purge-valve
WARNING housing assembly, making sure the
"bubble" portion is positioned over the
Before working on or around air brake systems thermostat.
and components, read Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so could result in personal injury. 3.5 Install the assembled purge-valve housing
in the end cover; make sure you orient
1. Before assembly, coat all O-rings, O-ring both parts so that the connector is about
grooves, and bores with a generous amount of 10 degrees clockwise from the supply
barium-base lubricant. See Fig. 1 during assem- port. Also, make sure the purge-valve
bly unless otherwise advised. housing is fully seated against the end
cover.
3.6 Secure the purge-valve housing to the 8. Test the air dryer for proper operation. For in-
end cover using the three self-tapping structions, see Subject 130.
screws. Start all three screws by hand,
then torque them 85 to 125 lbf·in (960 to 6 2
1400 N·cm).
4. Install an O-ring on the check-valve assembly,
then install the assembly in the end cover using
a socket. Tighten it 200 to 250 lbf·in (2260 to 4
2820 N·cm). 5
Testing
During cold-weather operation, check the operation
of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly.
1. With the ignition on, check for voltage to the
heater and thermostat assembly. Unplug the
electrical connector at the air dryer, and place
the test leads on each of the pins of the male
connector. If there is no voltage, look for a blown
fuse, broken wires, or corrosion in the vehicle
wiring harness. Check that a good ground path
exists.
2. Check the thermostat and heater operation. Turn
off the ignition switch and cool the end cover as-
sembly to below 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter,
check the resistance between the electrical pins
in the female connector. The resistance should
be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the 12-volt heater assem-
bly, and 6.8 to 9.0 ohms for the 24-volt heater
assembly.
3. Warm the end cover assembly to over 90°F
(32°C) and again check the resistance. It should
exceed 1000 ohms. If it does, the thermostat and
heater assembly is operating properly. If it
doesn’t, replace the purge-valve housing assem-
bly, which includes the heater and thermostat
assembly.
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at
the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust;
Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge control line is connected to the Connect the purge control line to the unloader port of the governor.
reservoir or exhaust port of the governor.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (May Look Like Whitish Liquid,
Paste, or Small Beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer is not securely mounted; there is Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
excessive vibration.
Cloth-covered perforated plate in the air Replace the plate or cartridge as needed. High operating temperatures may
dryer desiccant cartridge is damaged, or cause deterioration of filter cloth.Check the installation.
the cartridge was rebuilt incorrectly.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Heater and thermostat, wiring, or a fuse is Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
at fault, and isn’t allowing the air dryer to
purge during cold weather.
Desiccant cartridge not attached properly Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
to the end cover. instructions.
General Information
The following air plumbing diagrams are typical cab
and chassis air plumbing configurations. However,
there are many possible configurations based on ve-
hicle equipment.
For detailed plumbing diagrams for a specfic vehicle,
please use PartsPro®.
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
11/08/2001 f543939
Fig. 1, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with Two Drive Axles (full view)
Fig. 2
11/08/2001 f543940
Fig. 2, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with Two Drive Axles (detailed view)
Fig. 3
11/08/2001 f543941
Fig. 3, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with Two Drive Axles (detailed view)
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
10/22/2001 f543930
Fig. 4, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with One Drive Axle (full view)
Fig. 6
10/22/2001 f543931
Fig. 5, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with One Drive Axle (detailed view)
Fig. 5
10/22/2001 f543932
Fig. 6, Air Plumbing for Vehicles with One Drive Axle (detailed view)
Tests
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions, 100.
Replacement
1
NOTE: The air reservoirs are mounted in vari-
ous locations, depending on the vehicle configu- 2
ration. The reservoirs are typically mounted
under the driver’s-side steps or along the frame
rail, behind the cab.
3
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
2. Drain the air system.
3. Mark and disconnect all reservoir air lines and 4
couplers for later assembly. Cap the exposed
ports tightly to keep out contaminants. If access
is limited, remove the components after removing
the reservoir from its mount. 09/19/2001 f430276
NOTE: Many reservoirs are integrated with an 1. Stair and Reservoir Mounting Bracket
air dryer, called the Dryer Reservoir Module 2. Nut
3. U-Bolt Mounting Strap
(DRM). The air dryer must be removed from the 4. Air Reservoir
reservoir when the reservoir is being replaced.
For instructions on air dryer removal and instal- Fig. 1, Air Reservoir (mounted under driver’s steps)
lation, see Section 42.03, Subject 110.
N·m). Tighten the frame rail fasteners 136 lbf·ft
4. Remove the reservoir. (184 N·m).
• If the reservoir is mounted under the driv- 6. As marked earlier, connect all air lines and cou-
ers steps, remove the nuts securing the plers to the new reservoir, removing the caps as
U-bolt straps and remove the reservoir each component is installed. Tighten the connec-
(Fig. 1). tions as instructed elsewhere in this group.
• If the reservoir is installed along the frame If necessary, install the air dryer. For instructions,
rail using a strap fastener, remove the air see Section 42.03, Subject 110.
dryer, if equipped. Then, remove the reser-
voir strap fasteners and remove the reser- 7. If the air dryer was removed for air reservoir re-
voir. placement, perform operational tests in Sec-
tion 42.03, Subject 170.
• If necessary, remove the air dryer from the
reservoir. 8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
NOTE: If access is limited, connect all air lines
and couplers to the new reservoir, removing the
caps as each component is installed.
5. If the reservoirs are mounted under the driver’s
steps, install the air dryer onto the new reservoir
(if equipped) and install the reservoir. Secure the
U-bolt straps with the nuts. Tighten the nuts 12
lbf·ft (16 N·m). See Fig. 1.
If the reservoir is installed along the frame rail
using a strap fastener, install the reservoir using
the straps. Tighten the clamp nuts to 26 lbf·ft (35
10/12/2005 f130126
1
1
2 3
2
A
10/12/2005 f130127
A. Tank cut-away for clarity.
1. Interior Wall
2. Check Valve
3. Socket with Extension
10/14/2005 f130129
Fig. 2, Cut-Away View of Split Air Reservoir
1. Check Valve
2. Tank Shell (Cut-Away)
A
Fig. 4, Cut-Away View of the Check Valve Installation
5
3
1 1
2 6 2
4
12/06/2005 f130130
1. Existing Plumbing 3. Check Valve 5. 1/2-Inch Air Line
2. T-Fitting 4. 45-Degree Elbow 6. Brass Fitting
Fig. 5, Check Valve Bypass
Internal Check Valve in the bell of the chamber partition and remove it
from the reservoir.
Replacement, Three-Chamber 5. Install the new valve in the fitting in the bell of
Air Reservoir the chamber partition. Tighten to 27 lbf·ft (40
N·m).
Before changing the internal check valve(s), test the
6. Install the air reservoir fittings that were re-
system to determine which valve is bad. See Sub-
moved.
ject 110 for the procedure.
7. Pressurize the air system and check for leaks
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
around any fittings that were removed, then per-
the engine, and chock the tires.
form the "Internal Check Valves Test, Three-
2. Drain the brake air system completely. Chamber Air Reservoir" to determine that the
problem has been fixed. See Subject 110.
3. Remove the appropriate fittings from the top of
the supply-air chamber to access the valve(s) to 8. Before returning the vehicle to service, test the
be replaced. See Fig. 6. brakes for proper operation.
NOTE: Use appropriate measures to ensure
that the socket is securely attached to the ex-
tension, and that the valve is secured in the
socket, so that they do not drop into the reser-
voir during this procedure.
4. Using a six-point, 1/2-inch, deep socket on a 10-
inch extension, unscrew the valve from the fitting
A
1 2 3
06/01/2005 f422411
A. Access valves through these fittings.
1. Secondary Air Chamber 3. Primary Air Chamber 4. Check Valves (2)
2. Supply Air Chamber
Fig. 6, Internal Check Valves, Three-Chamber Air Reservoir
Fig. 1, Nylon Air Line and Quick-Disconnect Fitting 7.1 If the angle exceeds the specification,
recut the air line.
3. Push the air line all the way into the fitting. 7.2 Use a sharp blade to prevent collapsing
4. Pull on the air line to make sure the line is in- the tube or leaving burrs that can damage
stalled in the fitting properly. the O-ring.
5. Check and make sure that the air line is seated 8. Make sure the nylon tubing ends and fittings are
in the fitting. free of grease and debris. If the tubing is
04/24/2000 f420003a
Replacement 2. Pull the air line out of the fitting. See Fig. 2.
CAUTION
1
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, review Safety Precautions 100.
2
Brass and Steel Pipe Fittings
3
1. Make sure the fittings (Fig. 1) are free of grease,
dirt, and old sealant. Apply liquid thread sealant
(white) to the threads, and finger-tighten se- 2
curely.
07/28/95 f421380
1 1. Air Line
2. Collar
3. Fitting
3. Push the air line all the way into the fitting.
4. Pull on the air line to make sure the line is in-
stalled in the fitting properly.
2
5. Check and make sure that the air line is seated
in the fitting.
09/27/94
3 f420001a
Quick-Disconnect Fittings
NOTE: If damaged, quick-disconnect fittings
must be replaced as an assembly.
1. Push in on the fitting collar to release the air line.
General Description causes the trailer supply valve to trip and exhaust,
thus applying both the tractor and the trailer parking
The dash-mounted MV-3 control module is a two- brakes as required by federal regulations. See
Fig. 2. The trailer parking brakes may be indepen-
button, push-pull control valve housed in a single
body, which includes a dual circuit supply valve and dently released by pushing only the trailer air supply
valve (red) knob in.
a check valve.
The valve body, plungers, and spools are made out
of a nonmetallic, noncorrosive material. All air con-
nections are at the back of the valve. See Fig. 1. RED YEL
The MV-3 module has several functions: tractor pro-
tection; trailer service air control; system park; trailer
park only; trailer charge with tractor spring brakes
applied (tractor park only); and supply reservoir se-
A B
lection.
3 7
2
09/26/94 f420332a
RED YEL
A B
A B
09/26/94 f420333a
System Park
With both knobs pushed in, the parking brakes on
A B both the tractor and the trailer may be actuated by
pulling the yellow (parking brake) knob out. This ex-
hausts the air from the tractor parking brakes and
simultaneously causes the red (trailer air supply)
knob to pop out, applying the trailer parking brakes
(this complies with federal regulations that one con-
trol must apply all the parking brakes on the vehicle).
See Fig. 2.
09/26/94 f420720a
Trailer Charge
A. Trailer Brakes Released
B. Tractor Brakes Released If both valves are out, parking the combination ve-
hicle, and it is desired to recharge the trailer (leaving
Fig. 4, Trailer and Tractor Brakes Released (both only the tractor parking brakes applied), the red knob
control knobs pushed in) may be pushed in, repressurizing the trailer supply
line. This mode might also be used to park a combi-
Actuation of Trailer Park or nation vehicle with air-actuated emergency brakes on
the trailer to provide demonstrated parking capability
Emergency Brakes with the tractor spring brakes only. See Fig. 3.
To actuate the trailer parking brakes only, the red
knob is pulled out, exhausting the trailer supply line. Automatic Applications
The trailer parking brakes are now applied, either by
emergency air or parking brakes, depending on the If air pressure drops to 20 to 45 psi (138 to 310 kPa)
in both the primary and the secondary systems, the
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Removal
1 4
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock 3
the tires. 2
2. Drain the air system and disconnect the batter-
ies.
09/20/2001 f610518
3. Remove the 12 screws from the dash panel and 1. Tractor Brake Module Knob (yellow)
remove the panel. See Fig. 1. 2. Trailer Brake Module Knob (red)
3. Cigarette Lighter Receptacle
4. Interior Dash Panel
1
2
09/20/2001 3 f610517
1
1. Tractor Brake Module Knob (yellow)
2. Trailer Brake Module Knob (red)
3. Dash Panel
2
8
11
3
6 8
4 12
9 6
5
13
6
6 10 14
5 9
7 15 6
6
10
6 7
16
6 6
17
18
04/02/2001 f420470d
1. Red Trailer Air Supply Knob 10. Spring
2. Yellow Parking Brake Knob 11. Cap
3. Screw 12. Tripper Piston
4. Cover Plate 13. Large Diameter Spring
5. Guide Cap 14. Small Diameter Spring
6. O-Ring 15. Check Valve
7. Guide Spool 16. Valve Body
8. Plunger 17. Cap and Dual-Circuit Valve Assembly
9. Beveled Exhaust Seal 18. Retaining Ring
Shuttle and Check Valve 4. Install the piston assembly into the cavity, mak-
ing sure the spring mates with the bore of the
1. Install the O-ring into its groove on the tripper piston.
piston. Install the O-ring onto the cap.
5. Install the cap and O-ring.
2. Install the large spring on the piston and the
small spring on the boss of the check valve. 6. Attach the cover plate to the module body using
the six screws. Torque them 25 lbf·in (280 N·cm).
3. Install the spring and check valve into their cavity
in the body of the MV–3 module (tapered end of 7. Install the control module in the vehicle. For in-
the valve to enter cavity first). Make sure the structions, see Subject 110.
spring is centered in the bore.
1 2 3
4
5 5 5
10/27/93 f420469a
1. Inside Bevel
2. Exhaust Seal
3. Mating Exhaust Seal Bevel
4. Plunger
5. O-Ring
General Description 1 2
3
4
The dual circuit brake valve (foot valve) controls the 5678 9
air supply and delivery of the dual circuit brake sys- 10
tem. See Fig. 1. The brake valve is mounted on the
firewall. 11
12
Applying
B
The primary circuit of the brake valve is controlled by
the brake pedal and a plunger. When the brake A 13
pedal is depressed, the plunger applies pressure on 14
the spring seat, rubber spring, and the primary 15
(upper) piston. The downward movement of the pri- 16
mary piston closes the upper exhaust valve, and 17
then opens the upper inlet valve, allowing high- 18
pressure air from port 11 to flow to low-pressure port
21. 19
C
The secondary circuit is pneumatically operated by D
the pressure from the primary circuit. Primary circuit
pressure on top of the relay piston first closes the 20
lower exhaust valve, and then opens the lower inlet 21
valve, allowing high-pressure from port 12 to flow to
low-pressure port 22. 01/24/2000 24 23 22 f420043b
Operating Checks
IMPORTANT: If there is a change in the way a 4
3
vehicle brakes, or if low pressure warnings oc- 2
cur, check the operation of the air system. Al-
1
though the brake system may continue to work,
do not operate the vehicle until the braking cir-
cuits, including the pneumatic and mechanical 5
devices, have been repaired and are operating
normally. Always check the brake system for 6
proper operation after doing brake work, and 9 7
10 8
before returning the vehicle to service. 01/15/2002 f422340
Check for the proper brake valve operation as fol- 1. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Front Brake Valve
lows: 2. Primary Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. 4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
2. Connect test gauges to the primary and second- 5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve
6. Delivery Circuit to Trailer Hand Valve
ary delivery ports (ports 21 and 22) on the brake
7. Double Check Valve
valve. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. 8. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve
9. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir
10. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply
Reservoir
4
3 Fig. 2, Brake Valve Plumbing Circuits (with double-
2
check valve)
1
3. Start the engine and build air pressure to 120 psi
(827 kPa).
4. Depress the pedal to several different positions;
5 check the pressure on the test gauges to ensure
6 that it varies equally and proportionately with the
7
8 movement of the brake pedal.
01/15/2002 f422339
5. Fully depress the brake pedal, then release it.
1. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Front Brake Valve After a full application is released, the reading on
2. Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve the test gauges should promptly fall to zero.
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve NOTE: Pressure in the primary delivery circuit
5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve will be about 2 psi (14 kPa) greater than pres-
6. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve (if not equipped with a hand valve)
sure in the secondary delivery circuit (if both
7. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir supply reservoirs are at the same pressure).
8. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply This is normal for this valve.
Reservoir
6. Go to "Leakage Check."
Fig. 1, Brake Valve Plumbing Circuits
NOTE: When checking the delivery pressure of Leakage Check
the primary and secondary circuits, use test
1. Make and hold a pressure application of 80 psi
gauges that are accurate.
(552 kPa).
Removal 1 2
3
1. Chock the tires, then tilt the hood. For instruc-
tions, refer to the vehicle driver’s manual.
4
WARNING
When draining the air system, do not look into
the air lines/ports or direct them toward another 11
person, because dirt or sludge particles may be
in the airstream. Do not disconnect pressurized 10 9 8 6 5
hoses because they may whip as air escapes 7
from the line. Failure to take all necessary pre-
cautions during service operations of the air
brake system can result in personal injury.
2. Drain all of the air reservoirs.
3. Mark the brake valve air supply and delivery
lines for assembly reference. Disconnect the air
lines from the brake valve, and plug them to
keep out contaminants.
4. Remove the brake valve. See Fig. 1.
4.1 Remove the 5/16-18 capscrews and flat-
washers that attach the brake valve and
mounting adaptor to the front cab mount
plate. 11/02/95 f421351
1. Brake Valve
4.2 Remove the 5/16-18 locknuts and 2. Mounting Plate Adaptor
washers that attach the brake valve to the 3. Gasket
mounting adaptor. 4. Roll Pin
4.3 Remove the plunger from the mounting 5. Brake Pedal Assembly
6. Roller
adaptor. Wipe off the old grease from the 7. Roller Pivot Pin
plunger and adaptor. 8. Plunger
5. Note the location and position of the double 9. Shaft Pivot Pin
check valve (if equipped), then remove it from 10. 5/16–18 Capscrew and Flatwasher
the brake valve. Clean off the dirt and old sealant 11. 5/16–18 Locknut and Washer
from the threads of the valve and elbows.
Fig. 1, Brake Valve Mounting
WARNING Assembly
The locknut and spring seat are used to restrain Refer to Fig. 1 while performing the assembly proce-
the primary piston return spring, stem spring, dure.
and the relay piston spring. The combined force
of these springs is about 50 pounds (220 N). NOTE: Keep the work area, tools, and brake
When removing these springs, use care to pre- valve parts clean during assembly.
vent them from flying out and possibly causing 1. Using Dow Corning 55-M pneumatic grease, or
personal injury. Manually or mechanically hold equivalent, lightly grease all the new O-rings,
down these springs when removing the locknut. O-ring grooves, piston bores, and all sliding sur-
6. Using a 3/8-inch wrench, hold the locknut on the faces.
threaded end of the primary piston stem. Insert a 2. Place the upper inlet and exhaust assembly in
screwdriver in the exhaust passage through the the upper body, and secure the assembly with
center of the valve, and engage the slotted head the retaining ring. Make sure that the retaining
of the stem. ring is seated in its groove.
7. Using the screwdriver to keep the stem from 3. Install the large and small O-rings on the relay
turning, remove the locknut, spring seat, and the piston.
stem spring.
4. Install the primary piston O-ring in the piston
8. Being careful to avoid damaging the valve seats, O-ring groove.
remove the relay piston, relay piston spring, and
the primary piston and primary piston return 5. Install the rubber spring, concave side down, in
spring. the primary piston. Place the spring seat, flat
side up, over the rubber spring.
9. Remove the small washer from the cavity in the
lower side of the primary piston. 6. Install the spring seat nut and turn the nut clock-
wise until the top surface of the spring seat is
IMPORTANT: Be sure not to damage the piston even with the top surface of the piston. Set this
when removing the spring seat nut. A damaged assembly aside.
piston can cause air leakage and premature
wear of the piston. 7. Place the relay piston spring, if equipped, in the
concave portion of the relay piston. Install the
relay piston through the upper inlet and exhaust
13
10. Install the primary piston return spring in the up-
A per valve body piston bore.
14
15 11. Install the primary piston and rubber spring as-
16 sembly (assembled previously) over the stem,
17 and into the upper valve body piston bore.
18
19
WARNING
C
The locknut and spring seat are used to restrain
D
the primary piston return spring, stem spring,
and the relay piston spring. The combined force
20 of these springs is about 50 pounds (222 N).
21 When installing these springs, use care to pre-
22 vent them from flying out and possibly causing
01/24/2000 24 23 f420043b
personal injury. Manually or mechanically hold
A. Port 21: to primary air circuit down these springs when installing the locknut.
B. Port 11: from primary air tank
C. Port 22: to secondary air circuit 12. Push down and hold the primary and relay pis-
D. Port 12: from the seondary air tank tons in the upper valve body.
1. Locknut 13. Place the stem spring over the spring seat nut
2. Spring Seat
3. Stem Spring
(Ref. 4). Place the spring seat over the stem.
4. Spring Seat Nut 14. Install the locknut on the stem. Tighten the lock-
5. Primary Piston Stem nut 20 to 30 lbf·in (220 to 340 N·cm).
6. Primary Piston Retainer
7. Rubber Spring 15. Install the rubber seal ring in the lower valve
8. Spring Seat body.
9. Primary Piston
10. Primary Piston O-Ring 16. Attach the lower and upper valve bodies. Install
11. Primary Piston Return Spring the four hexhead capscrews and washers.
12. Small Washer Tighten the capscrews 11 lbf·ft (15 N·m).
13. Upper Inlet and Exhaust Valve Assembly
14. Small O-Ring 17. Install the lower inlet and exhaust valve assem-
15. Retaining Ring bly (Ref. 20).
16. Large O-Ring
17. Relay Piston Spring (if equipped)
18. Install the four screws that attach the exhaust
18. Relay Piston cover to the lower valve body.
19. Rubber Seal Ring 19. Install the brake valve. For instructions, see Sub-
20. Lower Inlet and Exhaust Valve Assembly ject 110.
21. Exhaust Cover
22. Exhaust Diaphragm
23. Washer
24. Phillips Head Screw
6
8
9
2
13 12 11
1 14
10
11/06/2001 f430287
1. Compressor 6. Oil Separator 11. Purge Valve
2. Governor 7. Desiccant Bed 12. Exhaust
3. Purge Control Line 8. Purge Volume 13. Turbo Cutoff Valve
4. Control Port 9. Delivery Check Valve 14. Engine Turbocharger
5. Purge Orifice 10. Discharge Port
vapor adheres to the desiccant material in a process Dry air flowing through the center of the desiccant
known as "ADSORPTION" The desiccant cartridge cartridge bolt also flows out the cross drilled purge
using the adsorption process typically removes most orifice and into the purge volume.
of the water vapor from the pressurized air.
The air dryer will remain in the charge cycle until the
Dry air exits the bottom of the desiccant cartridge air brake system pressure builds to the governor cut-
and flows through the center of the bolt used to se- out setting.
cure the cartridge to the end cover. Air flows down
the center of the desiccant cartridge bolt, through a PURGE CYCLE
cross drilled passage and exits the air dryer delivery
port through the delivery check valve. As air brake system pressure reaches the cutout set-
ting of the governor, the governor unloads the com-
pressor (air compressor stops compressing air) and
6
8
9
2
13 12 11
1 14
10
11/06/2001 f430286
1. Compressor 6. Oil Separator 11. Purge Valve
2. Governor 7. Desiccant Bed 12. Exhaust
3. Purge Control Line 8. Purge Volume 13. Turbo Cutoff Valve
4. Control Port 9. Delivery Check Valve 14. Engine Turbo
5. Purge Orifice 10. Discharge Port
the purge cycle of the air dryer begins. When the through the desiccant cartridge changes direction
governor unloads the compressor, it pressurizes the and begins to flow toward the open purge valve. Oil
compressor unloader mechanism and the line con- and solid contaminants collected by the oil separator
necting the governor unloader port to the AD-IP end are removed by air flowing from the purge volume
cover control port. The purge piston moves in re- through the desiccant drying bed to the open purge
sponse to air pressure causing the purge valve to valve.
open to the atmosphere and the turbo cutoff valve to
The initial purge and desiccant cartridge decompres-
close off the supply of air from the compressor (this
sion lasts only a few seconds and is evidenced by an
will be further discussed in the Turbo Charger Cutoff
audible burst of air at the AD-IP exhaust.
Feature section). Water and contaminants in the end
cover sump are expelled immediately when the The actual reactivation of the desiccant drying bed
purge valve opens. Also, air which was flowing begins as dry air flows from the purge volume
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Depleting air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Don’t disassemble a component until you have
read and understood the service procedures.
Some components contain powerful springs, and
injury can result if not properly disassembled.
Use the correct tools, and observe all precau-
tions pertaining to use of those tools.
5. Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or suspend-
ing devices are installed or replaced.
6. Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining should
not be attempted.
Installation
2 WARNING
1
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, read Safety Precautions 100.
3
Failure to do so could result in personal injury.
5 4
6 1. Install the assembled air dryer on the vehicle.
See Fig. 1.
8
7 1.1 Install the lower mounting bracket on the
end cover and secure it using the two
3/8-inch capscrews and washers. Torque
11/05/2001 f430284 the capscrews 25 to 30 lbf·ft (34 to 40
1. Mounting Strap N·m).
2. 5/16-Inch Capscrew
3. Saddle Bracket
1.2 Install the saddle bracket and mounting
4. Lockwasher strap on the end cover, and using the
5. Nut 5/16-inch capscrew, washer, and nut se-
6. End Cover Mounting Holes cure the strap to the saddle bracket.
7. Lower Mounting Bracket Tighten the 5/16-inch nut on the upper
8. Air Dryer mounting bracket. Torque to 5 to 8 lbf·ft
(6.5 to 10.5 N·m).
Fig. 1, Bendix AD-IP Air Dryer
1.3 Install the AD-IP on the vehicle using the
3.1 Mark and disconnect the three air lines four bolts that secure both the upper and
from the end cover, and note the position lower mounting brackets.
of end cover ports relative to the vehicle.
2. As marked earlier in "Removal," connect the
3.2 Unplug the vehicle wiring harness from three air lines to the ports on the end cover.
the heater and thermostat assembly con-
nector on the purge valve assembly. 3. Connect the vehicle wiring harness to the air
dryer heater and thermostat assembly connector
3.3 Remove the four bolts that secure both by plugging it into the air dryer connector until its
the upper and lower mounting brackets to lock tab snaps in place.
the vehicle, and remove the air dryer from
the vehicle.
NOTE: As a convenience when rebuilding the piston. Remove the exhaust diaphragm, and the
air dryer, several replacement parts and mainte- purge valve from the purge valve housing.
nance kits are available that do not require full 6. Remove the O-rings from the purge valve hous-
disassembly. Use the instructions provided with ing.
these parts or kits.
7. Remove the purge piston and the return spring.
Remove the O-ring from the purge piston.
Disassembly 8. Remove the retaining ring that secures the deliv-
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 1 during disassembly. ery check valve assembly in the end cover. Re-
move and separate the perforated plate, spring,
check valve body and O-ring.
WARNING 9. Remove the retaining ring that secures the
Before working on or around air brake systems heater and thermostat assembly in the end
and components, read Safety Precautions 100. cover. Gently pull the heater and thermostat out
Failure to do so could result in personal injury. of the end cover and remove the O-ring.
10. Using a 9/16-inch wrench, remove the safety
CAUTION valve assembly from the end cover.
11
1
4
5
3 2
33
31 30
32
29
28 9
27 12 20
26
13 8
25 21
22 7
23
24
19
10 18 15
17
16 14
06/07/2004 14 f430283
1. 5/16-Inch Capscrew 12. O-Ring 23. O-Ring
2. 5/16-Inch Lockwasher 13. O-Ring 24. O-Ring
3. 5/16-Inch Locknut 14. Retaining Ring 25. Retaining Ring
4. Upper Bracket Strap 15. Purge Valve Cartridge Assembly 26. Perforated Plate
5. Saddle Bracket 16. Shoulder Bolt 27. Check Ring Spring
6. End Cover 17. Exhaust Diaphragm 28. Check Valve
7. 3/8-Inch Capscrew 18. Purge Valve 29. O-Ring
8. 3/8-Inch Lockwasher 19. Purge Valve Housing 30. Retaining Ring
9. Lower Mounting Bracket 20 Purge Valve Piston 31. Heater/Thermostat Assy.
10. Cartridge Bolt 21 O-Ring 32. O-Ring
11. Desiccant Cartridge 22. Piston Return Spring 33. Safety Valve Assembly
8. Make certain that the purge orifice in the car- body. Install the check valve spring on the check
tridge bolt is open and free of obstructions. valve body so that the small coils of the spring
slip over the check valve body. Install the as-
9. Inspect all air line fittings for corrosion. Clean all sembled check valve body, o-ring, and spring in
old thread sealant from the pipe threads. the end cover so that the O-ring rests on its seat
10. Replace all removed O-rings with new ones that in the end cover and the spring is visible.
are provided in the kits. 7. Install the O-ring on the heater and thermostat
Replace parts that show any of the conditions assembly. After making certain the sponge rub-
described in the previous steps. ber cushion is positioned between the connector
body and thermostat, gently push the heater and
thermostat assembly into the end cover, making
Assembly certain the heating element enters the small di-
ameter bore in the larger heater and thermostat
WARNING bore in the end cover. Secure the heater and
thermostat assembly in the body using the re-
Before working on or around air brake systems taining ring. Make certain the retaining ring is
and components, read Safety Precautions 100. fully seated in its groove in the end cover.
Failure to do so could result in personal injury.
8. Install both O-rings on the desiccant cartridge
1. Before assembly, coat all O-rings, O-ring bolt and using a twisting motion, insert the as-
grooves, and bores with a generous amount of sembled desiccant cartridge bolt in the end
barium-base lubricant. See Fig. 1 during assem- cover.
bly unless otherwise advised. 9. Install the desiccant cartridge on the end cover
2. Install and center the exhaust diaphragm over making certain the cartridge is properly seated
the shoulder bolt making certain that the dia- and flush on the end cover.
phragm ID is over the bolt shoulder. Then install NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the car-
the purge valve on the shoulder bolt making cer- tridge slightly until the anti-rotation lugs are
tain its metal support side is against the dia- properly aligned and allow the cartridge to rest
phragm.
flush against the end cover.
3. Push the purge piston into the housing until it
10. Using an adjustable wrench or a socket, tighten
bottoms and insert a large blade screw driver in
the desiccant cartridge bolt, to secure the desic-
the piston’s slotted head. While depressing the
cant cartridge to the end cover. Torque the desic-
purge piston with the screw driver, install the
cant cartridge bolt to 50 lbf·ft (65 N·m).
shoulder bolt with exhaust diaphragm and purge
valve in the piston. Torque the shoulder bolt 60 11. Install the air dryer. For instructions, see Sub-
to 80 lbf·in (678 to 900 N·cm). ject 110.
4. Install the two O-rings on the purge valve hous- 12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
ing placing each in its appropriate location. Install
the assembled purge valve housing in the end
cover while making certain the purge valve hous-
ing is fully seated against the end cover. Secure
the purge valve housing in the end cover using
the retaining ring. Make certain the retaining ring
is fully seated in its groove in the end cover.
5. Using a 9/16-inch wrench, install the safety valve
assembly into the end cover.
6. Install the O-ring on the check valve body and
push the o-ring down, over the three guide lands
until it is in the O-ring groove of the check valve
Testing
During cold-weather operation, check the operation
of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly.
1. With the ignition on, check for voltage to the
heater and thermostat assembly. Unplug the
electrical connector at the air dryer, and place
the test leads on each of the pins of the male
connector. If there is no voltage, look for a blown
fuse, broken wires, or corrosion in the vehicle
wiring harness. Check that a good ground path
exists.
2. Check the thermostat and heater operation. Turn
off the ignition switch and cool the end cover as-
sembly to below 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter,
check the resistance between the electrical pins
in the female connector. The resistance should
be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the 12-volt heater assem-
bly, and 6.8 to 9.0 ohms for the 24-volt heater
assembly.
3. Warm the end cover assembly to over 90°F
(32°C) and again check the resistance. It should
exceed 1000 ohms. If it does, the thermostat and
heater assembly is operating properly. If it
doesn’t, replace the purge-valve housing assem-
bly, which includes the heater and thermostat
assembly.
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge control line is connected to the Connect the purge control line to the unloader port of the governor.
reservoir or exhaust port of the governor.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
Inlet and outlet air connections are Reconnect the lines properly.
reversed—unable to build system
pressure.
System is leaking excessively. Test for excessive leakage. Eliminate leaks, as needed. Allowable leakage is
as follows:
• Single Vehicle—1 psi/min (7 kPa/min) per service reservoir
• Tractor/Trailer—3 psi/min (21 kPa/min) per service reservoir
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Purge valve stays open; supply air leaks Replace the purge valve and housing.
to control side.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (May Look Like Whitish Liquid,
Paste, or Small Beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
Air dryer is not securely mounted; there is Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
excessive vibration.
Malfunctioning or saturated desiccant Replace desiccant cartridge assembly.
cartridge.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Desiccant cartridge not attached properly Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
to the end cover. instructions.
7
3
8
2 9
10
10/27/93 f420653a
1. 7/16-Inch Adjusting 6. Clevis
Hexnut 7. 1/2-Inch Clevis Pin
2. Grease Fitting 8. 1/4-Inch Clevis Pin
3. Boot 9. Grease Relief
4. Link Opening
5. Brake Chamber 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
Push Rod
1
2 6
3
09/14/2001 f430274
1. Brake Chamber Pushrod (threaded)
2. Jam Nut
4 3. Threaded Clevis
4. Cotter Pins and Clevis Pins
5. Link
6. Adjusting Hexnut
4. Install the clevis pins and cotter pins. 5.3 Check that the 1/4-inch pin is visible in the
notched area of the gauge. If the pin is
WARNING not in the right location, back off the slack
adjuster and readjust the pushrod length,
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to then repeat this step.
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is NOTE: Make sure there is clearance between
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment
the slack adjuster and other vehicle components
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake when the brakes are applied and the pushrod
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com- travels its maximum stroke.
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak- 6. Set the initial free-stroke, as follows.
ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in
property damage, personal injury, or death. 6.1 Turn the adjusting hexnut clockwise until
the brake linings contact the drum.
5. If the pushrod has a threaded clevis, use the
gauge supplied with the new slack adjuster to 6.2 Turn the adjusting hexnut counterclock-
check the adjustment of the clevis, as follows. wise one-half turn. There should be about
See Fig. 3. 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m) resistance, and a ratch-
eting sound will be heard.
7. Measure the brake chamber applied stroke, as
follows.
7.1 With the brakes fully released, use a ruler
to measure the distance from the bottom
of the brake chamber to the center of the
A large clevis pin. See Fig. 4.
7.2 Build air pressure to at least 85 psi (586
kPa). Apply the brakes, then measure the
distance from the bottom of the brake
chamber to the center of the large clevis
pin. See Fig. 4. The difference between
the measurements is the brake chamber
stroke.
1 7.3 The brake chamber stroke must be within
the range shown in Table 1. If it is not,
check the foundation brakes for problems
such as worn cams, bushings, pins and
rollers, or broken springs. Repair or re-
place as needed. For instructions, refer to
05/15/2008 f420654a the applicable brake section in this group.
A. Adjust the clevis in or out to position the 1/4-inch Then, repeat the two previous steps.
clevis pin within the notched area of the gauge.
8. If a rear axle slack adjuster was installed, manu-
1. Installation Gauge ally uncage the parking brake. Refer to the appli-
cable brake chamber section in this group for
Fig. 3, Checking the Clevis Adjustment instructions.
5.1 Position the 1/2-inch hole in the gauge 9. Apply the parking brakes.
over the end of the 1/2-inch clevis pin. 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
5.2 Align the applicable 1/4-inch hole in the 11. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
bottom of the gauge over the center of the as follows.
camshaft.
09/27/94 f420434b
General Information
The Haldex automatic slack adjuster serves two main
functions:
• As a lever, it converts the straight-line force of
the air brake chamber pushrod to torque on 1
the brake camshaft. Rotation of the camshaft
spreads the brake shoes out against the brake 8
drum, applying the brakes. 7
• As an adjuster, it maintains cam brake cham-
ber pushrod stroke and lining-to-drum clear-
ance automatically during normal use.
When the brakes are applied, the slack adjuster ro- 2
tates and moves the shoes into contact with the
drum. The clearance notch corresponds to the nor- 3
mal lining-to-drum clearance. See Fig. 1. Different 4
notches are available to meet the requirements of 6
various vehicles and brake duty cycles. As the brake
application continues, the rack moves upward and 5
rotates the one-way clutch which slips in this direc-
tion.
02/13/2001 f420074c
As the brake torque increases, the coil-spring load is
overcome and the wormshaft is displaced axially, re- NOTE: Older slack adjusters may not have an installa-
leasing the cone clutch. tion indicator.
1. Clutch Assembly
When the brake begins its return stroke, the coil 2. Enclosed Rack
spring load returns to normal and the cone clutch is 3. Installation Indicator (aligned with indicator notch)
again engaged. The rack is pulled back to its original 4. Clearance Notch
position in the notch. Any additional travel brought 5. Control Arm Anchor Bracket (design varies
about by brake lining wear causes the rack to turn depending on the axle)
the locked one-way clutch and rotates the wormshaft 6. Worm Wheel
through the locked cone clutch. The wormshaft then 7. Coil Spring
rotates the worm wheel and camshaft, adjusting the 8. Wormshaft
brakes. Fig. 1, Haldex Slack Adjuster
Safety Precautions
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the
following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and
chock the tires.
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser-
voirs before beginning any work on the ve-
hicle. Depleting air system pressure may
cause the vehicle to roll. Keep hands away
from brake chamber pushrods and slack ad-
justers, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
• Disconnect the batteries.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pres-
sure has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al-
ways wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble or in-
stall a component until you have read and un-
derstand the service procedures. Some com-
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses all
of the original supports, clamps, or suspending
devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
certain all components and systems are re-
stored to their proper operating condition.
WARNING CAUTION
Before working on or around air brake systems Do not use an impact wrench on the adjusting
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. hexnut. To do so may damage the slack adjuster
Failure to do so may result in personal injury. or camshaft.
6. Using a 7/16-inch box wrench, turn the adjusting
Removal hexnut counterclockwise to move the adjuster
arm out of the clevis. A minimum of 13 lbf·ft (18
1. With the vehicle parked on a level surface, set N·m) is required to overcome the internal clutch.
the parking brakes, and shut down the engine. You will hear a ratcheting sound.
Chock the tires.
7. Remove the slack adjuster from the camshaft.
2. If a rear-axle slack adjuster will be removed, re-
lease the parking brakes and cage the power Installation
spring of the parking brake chamber. For instruc-
tions, refer to the applicable brake chamber sec-
tion in this group. NOTE: For brake chambers that have pushrods
with threaded clevises, measure the pushrod
3. Remove the anchor bracket fasteners and the length before installing the new slack adjuster.
anchor bracket. See Fig. 1. With the brakes fully released, and no air pres-
sure to the chamber, check the dimension be-
2 tween the chamber face and the centerline of
the 1/2 inch clevis pin hole. It should be 2.25
inches (57 mm) for long stroke chambers, and
1 2.75 inches (70 mm) for standard stroke cham-
bers.
1. Check that the brake-chamber pushrod is fully
retracted.
2. Apply antiseize compound to the camshaft
splines.
IMPORTANT: When correctly installed, the
brake-chamber pushrod pushes in the direction
3 of the arrow on the slack adjuster housing.
3. Install the slack adjuster on the camshaft, with
5 the adjusting hexnut pointing away from the
brake chamber. See Fig. 2.
2 1
3
1
05/01/2000 f420472b
2
3
A. Use only the adjusting hexnut to align the slack A
adjuster with the pushrod clevis. 05/01/2000 f420473b
B. Turn the adjusting hexnut clockwise.
NOTE: The installation indicator must be aligned with
1. Direction of Applied Stroke the indicator notch.
2. Box Wrench, 7/16 inch A. Rotate the control arm counterclockwise until it
3. Adjusting Hexnut stops.
WARNING WARNING
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic ability, which could cause personal injury or
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake death, and property damage.
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com-
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak-
IMPORTANT: To check the brake adjustment,
ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in measure both the applied and free strokes.
property damage, personal injury, or death. NOTE: The location of the measurements is the
1. Adjust the brake lining clearance by manually same for both strokes but the applied stroke is
turning the adjusting hexnut clockwise until the measured with the brakes applied, while a lever
brake lining contacts the brake drum, then back is used to manually move the slack adjuster to
off the hexnut counterclockwise 1/2 turn. You will measure the free stroke.
hear a ratcheting sound.
5. Measure the free stroke, as follows. The free
IMPORTANT: Incorrect installation can cause stroke is the distance the slack adjuster has to
dragging brakes. travel to move the brake shoes against the drum.
2. Make sure the brakes are still fully released, then 5.1 With the brakes released, measure the
check the position of the installation indicator on distance from the bottom of the brake
the control arm. It must be within the indicator chamber to the far side of the clevis-pin
notch on the slack adjuster. hole. Record the exact distance as mea-
surement A.
If the indicator is out of position, loosen the con-
trol arm fasteners and repeat the control-arm ad- 5.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster
justment procedure. Then, tighten the bracket until the brake shoes contact the drum.
fasteners. Measure the distance from the bottom of
the brake chamber to the far side of the
WARNING clevis-pin hole. Record the exact distance
as measurement B.
Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. 5.3 Subtract measurement A from measure-
Failure to do so could allow the pushrod to dis- ment B to determine the free stroke. For
engage from the slack adjuster, causing a loss of new brake installations, the free stroke
braking ability that could result in personal injury should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch (16 to 19 mm).
and property damage. For in-service brakes, the free stroke
3. Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. should be 1/2 to 5/8 inch (13 to 16 mm). If
it is not in this range, refer to Trouble-
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the air system has at shooting 300.
least 100 psi prior to uncaging the brake cham-
ber. This will aid in the uncaging of the parking 6. Measure the applied stroke, as follows.
brake since the parking brake should be fully 6.1 With the brakes released (pushrod fully
released. retracted), measure the distance from the
4. If a rear-axle slack adjuster was installed, manu- bottom of the brake chamber to the far
ally uncage the parking brake. For instructions, side of the clevis-pin hole. See Fig. 4.
refer to the applicable brake chamber section in Record the exact distance as measure-
this group. ment A.
6.2 Apply and hold an 80 psi (551 kPa) brake
application. Measure the distance from the
bottom of the brake chamber to the far
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Tight or Dragging Brakes
Problem—Tight or Dragging Brakes
Possible Cause Remedy
Improperly positioned control arm anchor See instructions in Subject 110.
bracket
System air pressure too low to fully Check that the air governor cuts out at the recommended setting.
release spring brake
Loose brake linings Repair or replace the linings as required.
Pushrod binds on chamber housing Check for correct alignment and correct chamber mounting bracket. Adjust or
replace parts as needed.
Air supply does not exhaust completely Test the air system valves for leakage and correct operation.
Out-of-round brake drums Turn the brake drums, if possible. If the maximum allowable diameter of any
brake drum has been exceeded, replace the drum. Also, turn or replace the
other drum on the axle. For turning the drums, see the brake manufacturer’s
service manual.
Extreme differences in lining-to-drum Check for proper operation of the brake mechanism. Lubricate or overhaul as
clearances between shoes on same wheel needed.
Out-of-adjustment wheel bearings Adjust the wheel bearings, or replace them if damaged. For instructions see
Section 33.01 for front axles and Section 35.00 for rear axles.
Broken brake shoe return spring Replace the brake shoe return spring.
Approved Lubricants
Lubricants Type Lubricant Type
Low Lube SHC 460 Synthetic
Standard Standard Chassis Grease
Table 1, Approved Lubricants
Stroke Specifications
Maximum Applied Desired Free
Chamber Size Stroke Stroke
Inch (mm) Inch (mm)
12 1-3/8 (35) 3/8–1/2 (10–
16 and 20 1-3/4 (44) 13)
1-3/4 (44)
2 (51) — 2-1/2-Inch
24 Extended Stroke
2.5 (64) — 3-Inch 3/8–5/8 (10–
Extended Stroke 16) *
2 (51)
30 2.5 (64) — Long
Stroke
* Without drag.
General Information
The Meritor automatic slack adjuster (Fig. 1) has two
main functions:
• As a lever, it converts the straight-line force of
the brake chamber pushrod to torque on the
brake camshaft. Rotation of the camshaft
forces the brake shoes against the brake drum.
• As an automatic adjuster, it automatically main-
tains brake chamber pushrod stroke, which
controls lining-to-drum clearance during opera-
tion.
Meritor’s automatic slack adjuster automatically ad-
justs the clearance between the brake lining and the
brake drum (rotor). When linings wear, this clearance
increases and causes the chamber pushrod to move
a greater distance to apply the brakes.
During operation, if the chamber stroke exceeds the
design limit, the automatic slack adjuster will auto-
matically adjust the pushrod’s return stroke to control
clearance between the lining and the drum (rotor)
and reset the stroke to the correct length.
A pressed-in, sealed actuator boot is standard equip-
ment on Meritor slack adjusters. The boot features a
metal retaining ring with additional material that ex-
tends beyond the base of the retainer. The boot
forms a seal once it is pressed into the slack adjuster
body.
Meritor’s automatic slack adjusters, including the
factory-installed slack adjusters on the Q Plus cam
brakes, have a one-piece threaded clevis. See
Fig. 2.
The one-piece threaded clevis:
• Has a threaded hole for the pushrod;
• Can be straight or offset;
• Is used on all service replacement automatic
slack adjusters.
2 3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
29 16
17
18
28 19
27 20
21
26 22
25 24 23
06/14/2000 f422134
1. Brake Air Chamber 11. Boot 21. Worm Seal
2. Brake Chamber Pushrod 12. Piston Retaining Ring 22. Manual (Worm) Adjusting Nut
3. Clevis Jam Nut 13. Boot Retaining Clamp 23. Gear-to-Body Seal
4. Collar 14. Actuator Piston 24. Camshaft Splines
5. Clevis 15. Roller (Pin) 25. Gear Retainer/Seal
6. Large Clevis Pin 16. Actuator (Adjusting Screw) 26. Grease Fitting (if equipped)
7. Large Clevis Pin Retainer Clip 17. Pull-Pawl Assembly 27. Gear Thrustwasher
8. Small Clevis Pin Retainer Clip 18. Gasket 28. Gear
9. Small Clevis Pin 19. Worm 29. Slack Adjuster Arm
10. Actuator Rod 20. Worm Retaining Snap Ring
1 3
2
07/20/2000 f430163
1. Straight Clevis
2. Offset Clevis
3. Threads
Safety Precautions
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the
following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and
chock the tires.
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser-
voirs before beginning any work on the ve-
hicle. Depleting air system pressure may
cause the vehicle to roll. Keep hands away
from brake chamber pushrods and slack ad-
justers, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
• Disconnect the batteries.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pres-
sure has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al-
ways wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble or in-
stall a component until you have read and un-
derstood the service procedures. Some com-
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses all
of the original supports, clamps, or suspending
devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
certain all components and systems are re-
stored to their proper operating condition.
Removal Installation
1. With the vehicle parked on a level surface, set NOTE: For brake chambers that have pushrods
the parking brakes, and shut down the engine. with threaded clevises, measure the pushrod
Chock the tires. length before installing the new slack adjuster.
With the brakes fully released, and no air pres-
WARNING sure to the chamber, check the dimension be-
tween the chamber face and the centerline of
Manually cage each parking brake chamber
the 1/2 inch clevis pin hole. It should be 2.25
power spring in the release (no application) posi-
tion before continuing. Loss of brake chamber air inches (57 mm) for long stroke chambers, and
pressure will cause sudden application of the 2.75 inches (70 mm) for standard stroke cham-
parking brakes, which could result in personal bers.
injury. 1. Inspect the parts and prepare the slack adjuster
2. If the rear slack adjusters will be removed, re- for installation.
lease the parking brakes, then cage the power 2. Check the brake camshaft splines for wear or
spring of the parking brake chamber. corrosion.
3. Remove the retainer clips from the large and IMPORTANT: The following lubricants provide
small clevis pins. Remove the clevis pins. See corrosion protection. Do not mix them with other
Fig. 1.
types of lubricants.
CAUTION 3. Coat the camshaft splines and the splines of the
slack adjuster gear with Meritor 0-637, Meritor
Disengage the pull-pawl before turning the 0-695 (LX500 and MX500 only), Southwest SA
manual adjusting nut. Failure to do so could 8249496, or an equivalent.
damage the pull-pawl teeth. The brake clearance 4. Apply the service brake several times. Make sure
will not automatically adjust if the pull-pawl is the return spring retracts the pushrod quickly and
damaged. completely. Replace the return spring or brake
4. Using a screwdriver or an equivalent tool, pry the chamber, if needed.
pawl button out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm). See 5. Slide the spacing washer(s) on the camshaft.
Fig. 2.
On LX500 and MX500, install the slack adjuster
Wedge the tool in place. Pull-pawls are spring- seal with the lip facing the brake spider.
loaded; when the tool is removed, the pull-pawl
will engage the teeth automatically. 6. If reinstalling the same slack adjuster:
5. Using a wrench, manually turn the square adjust- 6.1 Slide the slack adjuster on the camshaft,
ing nut clockwise to move the slack adjuster with the actuator rod on the side opposite
away from the clevis. See Fig. 3. the brake chamber.
6. Remove the snap ring, washer(s), and seal (if 6.2 On LX500 and MX500, install the orange
equipped) that secure the slack adjuster in place slack adjuster seal on the camshaft. The
on the brake camshaft; save them for later instal- lip on the seal must face the snap ring.
lation.
6.3 Install the outer washer(s) and snap ring
7. Remove the slack adjuster from the camshaft. on the camshaft.
8. Note the location and number of any remaining
spacing washers on the camshaft. Remove the CAUTION
spacers and seal (LX500 and MX500 series
only), and save them for later installation. Disengage the pull-pawl before turning the
manual adjusting nut. Failure to do so could
2 3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
29 16
17
18
28 19
27 20
21
26 22
25 24 23
06/14/2000 f422134
1. Brake Air Chamber 11. Boot 20. Worm Retaining Snap Ring
2. Brake Chamber Pushrod 12. Piston Retaining Ring 21. Worm Seal
3. Clevis Jam Nut 13. Boot Retaining Clamp 22. Manual Adjusting Nut
4. Quick-Connect Collar (if 14. Actuator Piston 23. Gear-to-Body Seal
equipped) 15. Roller (Pin) 24. Camshaft Splines
5. Clevis 16. Actuator (Adjusting Sleeve) 25. Gear Retaining Ring
6. Clevis Pin (large) 17. Pull-Pawl Assembly (shown 90 26. Grease Fitting (if equipped)
7. Retainer Clip (large) degrees out of position) 27. Gear Thrustwasher
8. Retainer Clip (small) 18. Gasket 28. Gear
9. Clevis Pin (small) 19. Worm 29. Slack Adjuster Housing
10. Actuator Rod
06/19/2007 f422462
A. Insert a screwdriver here to pry the pull-pawl button
out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
09/26/94 f420179a
A. Turning the adjusting nut counterclockwise, align the
large holes in the slack adjuster and clevis.
09/26/94 B f420178a 1
A. Using a template, measure the slack adjuster arm
length.
B. Camshaft Center
IMPORTANT: The pushrod must be installed 10. If it was loosened, tighten the clevis jam nut to
in the clevis at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) and the following values.
not extend beyond it more than 1/8-inch (3- • For 1/2–20 threads, tighten the clevis jam
mm). nut 20 to 30 lbf·ft (27 to 41 N·m).
7.12 Make sure there is at least 1/2 inch (13 • For 5/8–18 threads, tighten the jam nut 25
mm) of thread engagement between the to 50 lbf·ft (34 to 68 N·m).
clevis and the pushrod. Also, check that
11. Lube the slack adjuster through the grease fitting
the pushrod does not extend through the
until the lubricant is forced out through the pawl
clevis more than 1/8-inch (3-mm). See
slot or through the gear splines around the in-
Fig. 7.
board snap ring.
If necessary, cut the pushrod, install a 12. Adjust the brakes. See "Brake Adjustment"
new pushrod, or install a new brake cham- below.
ber.
7.13 Temporarily insert the small clevis pin Brake Adjustment
through the template, clevis, and actuator
rod to make sure the alignment is correct. NOTE: A properly working self-adjusting slack
Repeat the adjustment, if necessary.
adjuster does not require manual adjustment
When the alignment is correct, remove
both clevis pins and the template. while in service.
A WARNING
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com-
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak-
B ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in
property damage, personal injury, or death.
1. If a rear axle slack adjuster was installed, manu-
ally uncage the parking brake.
2. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push-
rod must be fully retracted).
09/27/94 f420898a
CAUTION
A. Minimum 1/2 inch (13 mm).
B. Maximum 1/8 inch (3 mm). Before turning the manual adjusting nut on the
slack adjuster, disengage the pull-pawl. Failure to
Fig. 7, Check Pushrod Engagement do so could damage the pull-pawl teeth. A dam-
aged pull-pawl will not allow the slack adjuster to
8. Apply antiseize compound to the two clevis pins. automatically adjust the brake clearance.
9. Insert both clevis pins with their pinheads on the 3. Using a screwdriver, pry the pull-pawl button out
inboard side of the slack adjuster. Be sure the at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to disengage the pull-
small clevis pin is inserted through the hole in pawl teeth from the slack adjuster actuator. See
the actuator rod. Install new retaining clips to se- Fig. 2. Wedge the screwdriver in place. The pull-
cure the clevis pins. pawl will need to be disengaged until the brake
adjustment is complete.
10/20/93 f420182a
NOTE: For either free-stroke or applied chamber stroke,
subtract measurement A from B.
A. Measurement with the brakes released.
B. Measurement with the brakes applied by manual
lever (free-stroke) or pressurized brake application
A B (applied chamber stroke).
CAUTION WARNING
The adjusted applied chamber stroke should be Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
as short as possible but not so short that the been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
free-stroke is too short and the linings drag. If To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
the linings drag, the brakes could be damaged. ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
6.5 The applied chamber stroke must not ex-
ceed the maximum value specified in 8. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation
Table 1. before you put the vehicle in service, as follows.
If the applied chamber stroke is incorrect, 8.1 Apply and release the brakes several
turn the adjusting nut 1/8-turn counter- times to check for air leaks and proper
clockwise to shorten the stroke, or 1/8-turn operation of the slack adjusters.
clockwise to lengthen it. See Fig. 8. Mea- 8.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
sure the applied stroke again and readjust proper parts replacement and full vehicle
it until it is correct. control.
6.6 If the slack adjuster is not maintaining the 8.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
correct applied chamber stroke, check the check the drum temperatures. Any drums
condition of the foundation brakes. See that are significantly cooler than others
Section 42.01, Subject 150. show a lack of braking effort on those
7. Remove the screwdriver from the pull-pawl as- wheels.
sembly. This will engage the pull-pawl with the
actuator.
3 3
2 2
4 4
1 5 1
4 4
1
1
2 2
3 3
04/30/2003 f420368a
1. Rotor 4. Rigid Brake Line
2. Caliper and Pad Assembly 5. Master Cylinder
3. Flexible Brake Line 6. Power Brake Booster
NOTE: On most vehicles in the field, the pri- Illustrations in this document do not show ABS
mary master cylinder piston controls the rear components.
brakes, the secondary piston the front brakes. The hydraulic brake components include two com-
But on some vehicles the primary master cylin- pletely separate hydraulic systems that use different
der piston controls the front brakes, the second- and unmixable hydraulic fluids, lines, and seals. The
ary master cylinder piston controls the rear components of each must be kept separate from
brakes. Either configuration is considered nor- the other. See Fig. 2, which shows the separate
mal and they are functionally identical. Techni- systems.
4
3
2
5
04/29/2003 f420369b
A. Service Brake System (DOT 3 Brake Fluid)
B. Power Brake Booster and Power Steering System
(ATF)
1. Power Steering Gear 3. Power Steering Reservoir 5. Brake Master Cylinder
2. Power Steering Pump 4. Power Brake Booster
The power brake booster multiplies brake pedal effort and an electric backup pump (Fig. 3). The brake
to increase power to the brake master cylinder. The master cylinder bolts to the front of the power brake
power increase comes from pressurized automatic booster.
transmission fluid (ATF) supplied by the power steer-
The brake pedal rod connects the brake pedal to the
ing pump. Note that the power steering system
power brake booster’s power piston assembly. The
contains ATF, not "power steering fluid."
reaction piston is inside the power piston. The for-
The service brake system, consisting of the master ward end of the power piston fits through the booster
cylinder, the brake hydraulic lines and the brake cali- end-cap assembly and rests against the brake mas-
pers, uses only approved DOT 3 heavy duty brake ter cylinder. The end-cap assembly keeps the ATF
fluid. Serious damage will result from putting ATF within the power brake booster.
in the brake master cylinder, or DOT 3 brake fluid
The power brake booster gets pressurized ATF from
in the power brake booster.
the vehicle’s power steering pump. The power steer-
ing pump sends the ATF through the steering gear to
Power Brake Booster the power brake booster supply port, then the power
The major parts of the Hydro-Max® II power brake brake booster return port sends the ATF back to the
booster mounted on the frontwall are: a reaction pis- power steering reservoir. If the supply of pressurized
ton, a power piston assembly, an end-cap assembly ATF from the power steering pump to the power
1 2 3
4
5
6
7
11
10 8
A
9
02/15/2002 f420375a
NOTE: Not all parts are shown.
A. Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
1. Flow Switch 5. Rubber Boot 9. Electric Backup Pump
2. Return Port (to steering 6. Brake Pedal Rod 10. End-Cap
reservoir) 7. Reaction Piston 11. Master Cylinder (DOT 3 brake
3. Supply Port (from steering gear) 8. Power Piston Assembly fluid only)
4. Firewall
brake booster fails, a flow switch starts the electric sembly, secondary return spring, and secondary res-
backup pump to keep the power brakes working. ervoir section. See Fig. 5.
The pressure chambers connect to the front and rear
Master Cylinder brake caliper assemblies through hydraulic lines and
The brake master cylinder bolts to the power brake hoses. There is a compensating valve at the bottom
booster and functions as a dual supply system. In of each reservoir section that opens to connect it to
the most common configuration, the primary sub- its chamber in the master cylinder. When it is open,
system supplies pressurized DOT 3 brake fluid to the the compensation valve allows DOT 3 brake fluid in
rear brakes, the secondary subsystem supplies it to the reservoir to enter the brake lines to the calipers
the front brakes. See Fig. 4. For safety, each sub- to take up for lining wear. When it is closed, the com-
system is independent so a problem with one will not pensation valve allows pressure to build in its sub-
affect the other. system. A pressure differential valve operates a pres-
sure differential switch (not shown), which sets off a
The master cylinder is mounted on the front of the dash warning light and buzzer if one of the sub-
power brake booster. The main components of the systems does not build pressure.
master cylinder are the primary pressure chamber,
the primary piston/actuator assembly and return
spring, the primary reservoir section, and the second-
ary pressure chamber, secondary piston/actuator as-
1
2
A
B
04/29/2003 f420370
A. Rear Brake Lines B. Front Brake Lines
1. Master Cylinder Reservoir 3. Master Cylinder (DOT 3 brake
2. Power Brake Booster (ATF only) fluid only)
Non-ABS Brake Monitor Module The monitor module, which operates on 9 to 16 volts
DC, actively monitors the hydraulic brake system
The brake monitor module, located behind the instru- under any of the following conditions:
ment control unit (ICU) on the driver side of the
• When the ignition is on;
dash, monitors electrical signals from various sen-
sors (but not ABS) in the service brake system and • When the brake pedal light switch is powered;
power brake booster system. If it detects a problem, • If the ignition is off, but the driver’s door is
the module activates the applicable warning light and open and the parking brake is not applied.
buzzer on the dashboard.
When the ignition is turned on, the monitor module
The monitor module has nine input terminals and runs a self-test which lasts from 1 to 3 seconds. The
three output terminals, with one ground terminal. See warning light and buzzer come on, then go off if the
Fig. 6. The output terminals connect to the brake system is working properly. The module then begins
system pressure and warning lights. The input termi- monitoring the hydraulic brake system. If it detects a
nals are connected to sensors in the brake system problem, it turns on the brake warning light and
that detect improper operation. buzzer.
See Table 1 for identification of the output and input NOTE: The buzzer is controlled by the instru-
terminals on the back of the module, and the circuits ment control unit (ICU).
to which they are connected.
7
4 8
5
6
15 14 13 12 11 10 9
05/09/2003 f420376a
NOTE: Not all parts are shown.
A. DOT 3 Brake Fluid
1. Secondary Compensating Valve 6. Primary Compensating Valve 11. Primary Piston Return Spring
(open) (open) 12. Secondary Piston/Actuator
2. Secondary Reservoir Section 7. Power Brake Booster Assembly Assembly
3. DOT 3 Brake Fluid Reservoir 8. Frontwall 13. Secondary Pressure Chamber
4. Piston Stop 9. Primary Pressure Chamber 14. Housing
5. Primary Reservoir Section 10. Primary Piston/Actuator 15. Secondary Piston Return Spring
Assembly
The "R" light (brake pressure) output—terminal 3—is • Too much electrical resistance in the backup
activated when any of the following conditions exist: pump motor. This is often caused by a bad
• The flow switch on the power brake booster ground.
closes due to reduced or lost flow of ATF to
the power brake booster; Monitor Module Terminal Identification
Monitor Module Terminal Identification mary reservoir section and raises hydraulic pressure
in the primary pressure chamber.
Terminal Circuit
Function The primary piston/actuator assembly motion also
Number Number
moves the secondary piston/actuator assembly. This
4 Ground GND
closes the secondary compensating valve, pressuriz-
7 Ignition Input 81C ing the secondary pressure chamber.
8 Not Used — Both primary and secondary pressure chambers
9 Relay Input 388F have outlet ports into individual brake lines leading to
the brake calipers. The brake lines transmit the pres-
10 Not Used —
sure through DOT 3 brake fluid to the calipers, mov-
11 Pressure Differential Switch Input 388A ing the dual piston pads against the rotors. That pulls
12 Brake Pedal Input 388L the caliper assemblies in, squeezing the rotors, slow-
ing or stopping the wheels.
13 Backup Pump Motor Input 388C
If the power brake booster loses pressure from the
14 Fluid Level Input 388B
power steering pump, the flow switch turns on the
15 Flow Switch Input 388G backup pump, closing the main supply check valve
Table 1, Monitor Module Terminal Identification and opening the backup pump check valve. The
electric backup pump then takes over pressurizing
• No power to the backup pump at startup. the ATF in the power brake booster, providing
See Table 2 for information on when the input termi- enough pressure for the master cylinder to operate
nals are activated. the brakes.
01/05/2000 f420759a
2 3
5 6 7
8
4
9 10
11
1 26 25 24 23 22 21
12
20 13
A 19
18 14
15
B
17
C 16
04/05/2004 f420373a
NOTE: Not all parts are shown.
A. DOT 3 Brake Fluid B. ATF C. Air Space
1. Secondary Compensating Valve (closed) 14. Frontwall
2. Secondary Reservoir Section 15. Power Piston
3. Primary Reservoir Section 16. Backup Pump Check Valve (shown closed)
4. Primary Compensating Valve (closed) 17. Electric Backup Pump
5. Flow Switch Assembly 18. Throttle Valve Return Spring
6. Return Port 19. Piston Return Spring
7. Supply Port 20. End-Cap
8. Supply Check Valve (shown open) 21. Primary Piston/Actuator Assembly
9. Pressure Regulator Assembly 22. Primary Pressure Chamber
10. Actuator Pin 23. Primary Piston Return Spring
11. Brake Pedal Rod 24. Secondary Piston/Actuator Assembly
12. Reaction Piston 25. Secondary Pressure Chamber
13. Throttle Valve 26. Secondary Piston Return Spring
General Safety Precautions Special care must be taken when disposing of used
brake fluid. Put the fluid in a sealed plastic container
and label it "Used Brake Fluid." Then dispose of it in
WARNING an approved manner. Check with local and state
regulations as to the correct disposal procedure.
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
drums, always replace components as an axle IMPORTANT: During service procedures, keep
set. grease and other foreign material away from
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at caliper assemblies, disc brake pads, brake ro-
the same time. tors and external surfaces of the hub. Handle
parts carefully to avoid damage to the caliper,
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at
rotor, disc brake pads or brake lines.
the same time.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single
Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, Safety
at the same time. Do not mix component
types.
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
WARNING
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam- Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
age, personal injury, or death. brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the and continuing through assembly. Breathing
following precautions: brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
chock the tires. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
• Disconnect the batteries. Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings, should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length, the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
and strength of the original equipment. asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that lung disease) and cancer.
all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
pending devices are installed or replaced. Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
• Replace devices that have stripped threads or health hazard, the following precautions should also
damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
should not be attempted.
Areas where brake work is done should be separate
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make from other operations, if possible. As required by
certain all components and systems are re- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
stored to their proper operating condition. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
WARNING high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
Hydraulic brake fluid is hazardous, and can and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
cause blindness if it gets in your eyes. Always worn during all procedures.
wear safety glasses when handling brake fluid or OSHA recommends that enclosed cylinders equipped
bleeding brake components. Brake fluid may also with vacuums and high-efficiency (HEPA) filters be
be a skin irritant. If you get it on your skin, wash used during brake repairs. Under this system, the
it off as soon as possible. entire brake assembly is placed within the cylinder
and the mechanic works on the brake through
WARNING
The hydraulic brake and power steering systems
must be bled whenever any fitting has been loos-
ened or disconnected. Failure to bleed the sys-
tem will allow air to remain in it. That will de-
crease the vehicle’s braking ability and can result
in an accident, property damage, and serious
personal injury.
Properly dispose of used hydraulic brake fluid.
Used hydraulic brake fluid is often contaminated.
Reusing it can cause brake system damage, loss
of braking, property damage and serious per-
sonal injury.
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and brake
fluid must not be mixed. Use only brake fluid for
the master cylinder and brake lines. Use only ATF
10/27/94 f420379a
for the power brake booster. Mixing these two
fluids will seriously damage the hydraulic sys-
Fig. 1, Pressure Bleeder Kit
tem. ATF will damage the rubber parts of the ABS
modulator, master cylinder, and brake calipers 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
and can cause damage, loss of braking and seri- parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
ous personal injury. tires.
Always use new clean DOT 3 brake fluid when 2. Open the hood.
bleeding the master cylinder and service brake sys- 3. Connect the pressure bleeder to the brake mas-
tem. Never reuse brake fluid, and do not use brake ter cylinder reservoir following the manufacturer’s
fluid containers for any other purpose. DOT 3 brake instructions.
fluid exposed to the air absorbs water from it, so
keep brake fluid containers tightly closed to keep
new brake fluid clean and dry. Keeping the master WARNING
cylinder reservoir properly filled to the bottom of the
narrow filler neck helps reduce moisture absorption Do not exceed 35 psi (241 kPa) at the master cyl-
from the air. inder inlet. Exceeding this pressure could rupture
the master cylinder assembly, spraying brake
IMPORTANT: Do not let DOT 3 brake fluid touch fluid around the area. This will almost certainly
any painted surfaces. Brake fluid removes paint result in vehicle paint damage and may cause
other damage or personal injury.
and may also damage other non-metallic sur-
faces. Do not let fluid get on brake pads or ro- 3.1 Fill the pressure bleeder with new DOT 3
tors. approved brake fluid. Pressurize it ac-
cording to the manufacturer’s instructions.
3.2 Using the supplied adapter, connect the 5. Add DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder res-
pressure bleeder to either one of the fill ervoir, if it is needed.
ports on the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Bleed the front wheel brake calipers, right side
4. Bleed the hydraulic connections at the rear first.
wheel calipers, starting on the right side.
6.1 Put a wrench on the bleeder fitting at the
4.1 Put a wrench on the bleeder fitting at the caliper, then attach a length of clear tub-
caliper, then attach a length of clear tub- ing to the bleeder fitting. Make sure the
ing to the bleeder fitting. Make sure the tube fits snugly. Submerge the other end
tubing fits snugly. Submerge the other of the tubing in a container of clean brake
end of the tubing in a container of clean fluid. See Fig. 2.
brake fluid. See Fig. 2.
6.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting by about 3/4-
turn and let the brake fluid flow out of the
fitting until it is free of air bubbles. Tighten
the fitting firmly.
6.3 Move to the left front wheel caliper and
repeat steps for bleeding the caliper.
7. Check the brake fluid level in both compartments
of the reservoir. Add new DOT 3 approved brake
fluid if needed.
8. Check the operation of the brakes by pumping
the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
The brake pedal should not go all the way down
to the floor. If it does, see Troubleshooting 300.
9. Close and latch the hood.
10. Connect the batteries.
11. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
12. Repeat step 8. Check for operation of the
brakes.
Manual Bleeding
If you do not have pressure bleeding equipment, you
can use the manual bleeding procedure.
IMPORTANT: Do not let the brake master cylin-
10/27/94 f420377b
der fluid level get too low during manual bleed-
Fig. 2, Bleed the Connections at the Rear Wheel ing operations. Keep the master cylinder reser-
Calipers voir filled with new DOT 3 approved brake fluid.
Allowing the brake fluid reservoir to empty will
4.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting about 3/4-turn force air into the system, the opposite of the
and let the brake fluid flow out of the fit-
desired result.
ting until it is free of air bubbles. Tighten
the fitting firmly. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
4.3 Move to the left rear caliper and repeat
tires.
steps for bleeding the caliper.
2. Open the hood.
3. Disconnect the batteries. The ignition must re- brake fluid as needed to raise the level to
main off for the entire bleed procedure. the bottoms of the narrow filler necks.
4. Bleed the master cylinder. 4.7 Using a wrench and holding a rag under
it to absorb leaking brake fluid, loosen the
NOTE: It will not usually be necessary to fitting at the front outlet port on the mas-
bleed the master cylinder unless the brake ter cylinder. See Fig. 4. Loosen the fitting
fluid reservoir has run dry or master cylinder about one turn.
components have been replaced.
4.1 Using a wrench and holding a rag under-
neath to absorb leaking brake fluid,
loosen the fitting at the rear outlet port on
the master cylinder about one turn. See
Fig. 3.
10/27/94 f420374a
IMPORTANT: Do not release the brake 5.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting by about 3/4-
turn.
pedal until the fitting is tightened, or more air
will get into the system. 5.3 Have an assistant slowly push the brake
pedal to the floor and hold it down. Hold
4.4 Release the brake pedal. the brake pedal down as you tighten the
4.5 Loosen the fitting again and bleed the line bleeder fitting.
until no air escapes from the fitting and IMPORTANT: Do not let off the brake pedal
the brake pedal feels firm.
until the caliper fitting is tightened. Releasing
4.6 Check the fluid level in the master cylin-
der reservoir. Add new DOT 3 approved
Power Brake Booster Bleeding 5. Check the ATF level in the power steering reser-
voir. Fill, if needed.
WARNING 6. Crank the starter and check the fluid level again.
7. Check the operation of the brakes.
Use only clean, approved automatic transmission
fluid (ATF) for the procedure below. Do not use 7.1 With the key off, push the brake pedal.
DOT 3 brake fluid. Putting DOT 3 brake fluid in The dash warning light and buzzer should
the power brake booster system will damage the come on and the backup pump should
seals and O-rings in the power brake booster, the come on.
power steering pump and the power steering 7.2 Turn the key to the ON position, but do
gear. This could result in a loss of power steering not start the engine. The dash warning
and/or braking, which could possibly cause an light and buzzer should come on, and the
accident resulting in property damage or serious backup pump should start to run.
personal injury.
7.3 Start the engine. Depress the brake
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the pedal. The dash warning light, buzzer and
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the backup pump should stay off. If they
rear tires. come on, see Troubleshooting 300 and
find the problem.
2. Open the hood.
7.4 Shut down the engine. Check the ATF
3. Check the level of fluid in the power steering res- level in the power steering reservoir. Fill it
ervoir. See Fig. 1. Fill it with approved ATF as as needed.
needed. See Specifications 400 for approved
ATF. 8. Close and latch the hood.
9. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
2
10/27/94 f460603a
1. Power Steering Reservoir
2. Steering Gear
1 2 4
6
04/23/2003 f420463a
1. Power Steering Reservoir 5. Power Brake Booster
2. Hydraulic Supply Line 6. Hydraulic Return Line
3. Steel Fitting with O-Ring Seal 7. Power Steering Gear
4. Hose Clamp 8. Power Steering Pump
bends in the hose, and that it can not be 8. Bleed the brake system following the procedure
rubbed or pinched by other parts as they in Subject 110.
move.
9. Close and latch the hood.
4. Bleed the power brake booster system following
10. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
the instructions in Subject 120.
5. Close and latch the hood.
6. Remove the chocks from the tires.
08/03/93 f420378
f420604
2 3
10/28/94 f420552a Fig. 5, Outlet Ports With Master Cylinder Bleeder Tubes
1. Reservoir 3. Flanged Hexnut
2. Master Cylinder 4. Power Brake Booster 2
03/28/2003 f430345
1. DOT 3 brake fluid
2. Filler caps
3. Fill to bottom ring of filler neck
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
4
2. Open the hood. 3 5
3. Disconnect the batteries at the negative cable. 6
4. If the brake master cylinder is still mounted on
the power booster, remove it following the in-
structions in Subject 140.
5. Inside the cab, disconnect the brake pedal rod
from the brake pedal.
5.1 Below the dash, find the clevis pin,
washer, and cotter key that connect the 2
power booster push rod to the brake
pedal. See Fig. 1.
1
02/12/2002 f420702b
1. Backup Pump
2. Backup Pump Power Lead
3. Flow Switch Wiring
4. Flow Switch
5. Frontwall
6. Power Brake Booster Housing
07/26/93 f420704
2
Fig. 5, Power Brake Booster Removal
2. Install the four mounting hexbolts and washers.
See Fig. 4. Tighten to 27 lbf·ft (37 N·m).
02/12/2002 f420703b
3. Install the master cylinder on the power brake
1. Supply Line (steel) booster, following the instructions in Sub-
2. Return Line (rubber)
ject 140.
Fig. 3, Power Brake Booster Lines (actual appearance 4. Connect the hydraulic supply and return lines
may vary)
See Fig. 3. Tighten the supply line to 21 lbf·ft (28
N·m). Tighten the hose clamp on the return line
firmly.
5. Connect the wiring to the backup pump assem-
bly and to the flow switch assembly. See Fig. 2.
6. Check the ATF level in the power steering reser-
voir See Fig. 6. Add approved ATF if needed.
See Specifications 400 for the approved ATF.
7. Connect the batteries.
8. Bleed the power brake booster following the in-
structions in Subject 110.
9. Close and latch the hood.
02/12/2002 f430297
10. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
Fig. 4, Power Brake Booster Mounting (actual
appearance may vary)
2
10/27/94 f460603a
1. Power Steering Reservoir
2. Steering Gear
NOTE: The monitor module is located on the 3. If it was removed, install the ICU-M2. For instruc-
driver side of the dash behind the instrument tions, see Section 54.04, Subject 100.
control unit (ICU). 4. Install the dash trim panel. See Fig. 1.
5. Connect the batteries.
Removal
6. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the 7. Verify proper operation of the monitor module.
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the See Subject 120.
rear tires.
2. Disconnect the batteries at the negative termi-
nals.
3. Inside the cab, remove the dash trim panel. See
Fig. 1.
08/16/2002 f610579b
Installation
1. Connect the 9-pin and the 4-pin connectors to
the monitor module.
2. Install the monitor module on the mounting
bracket.
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 1 when performing the following 6. If the metering piston did not come out by itself,
procedures. use a small magnet to extract the metering pis-
1 2 5
3 4
02/27/2002 6 f430298
1. Contact Assembly 3. Metering Piston 5. Flow Switch Bore
2. O-Ring 4. Spring 6. Booster
There may be two lights generally relating to A good relay will run the backup pump only if it is
triggered by the flow switch and there is power to the
brakes: the parking/service brake light, and an
relay’s coil. A bad relay can be stuck ON, making the
ABS light if the vehicle has ABS. This section backup pump run even though the relay coil is not
refers only to the parking/service brake light, not triggered. A bad relay can also make the backup
ABS. There is one buzzer for all brake signals. pump run although the flow switch has not triggered
The brake light and buzzer come on together when it.
triggered by one or more of the following: See Fig. 3 for troubleshooting and Fig. 4 for electri-
• the parking brake switch cal circuits of the master cylinder and power brake
booster.
• the flow switch
• the fluid level indicator switch Backup Pump Does Not Run
• the differential pressure switch The backup pump will not run if there is no voltage to
• the electric backup pump the motor or if the motor is damaged — burnt out or
− Ignition ON
− Parking brake applied 1 = No Check the park brake at the axle. Yes
Start engine and release See Figure 2.
parking brake. Has it released completely?
2 = No 1 = No
Diagnose and
repair. See
Figure 3.
Check for a burned−out
bulb, burned−out buz−
er, broken wires from
the parking brake
switch to the bulb and Normal
buzzer, or a malfunctioning Condition
See Figure 5. parking brake switch.
07/30/2004 f040622
Fig. 1, Flow Chart: Brake Warning Light and Buzzer Relating to Parking Brake
jammed, for instance. Following are some of the pos- • The brake pedal feels spongy, springy or soft.
sible reasons for the backup pump not running: • The brake pedal continues to fall with steady
• a dead battery foot force.
• a broken relay • The brake pedal feels very hard.
• a broken wire between the battery and pump Most common reasons for a very hard pedal—
motor
• Insufficient flow or pressure from the power
• a break in the circuit between the ignition steering pump;
switch/brake light switch and the flow switch
• ABS is blocking flow of brake fluid to the
• a bad ground to the flow switch calipers.
See Fig. 5 for troubleshooting and Fig. 4 for electri- Less likely causes include:
cal components of the master cylinder and power
• contaminated power brake booster
brake booster.
• contaminated master cylinder
Abnormal Brake Pedal • binding pedal linkage
Conditions • binding power brake booster
Abnormal pedal conditions defined in this section in- • binding master cylinder
clude the following. See Fig. 6 for flow chart diagno- • blocked or kinked brake fluid tubes or hoses
sis.
With the engine OFF other causes are—
• Brake pedal dropping 1/2-inch when the engine
is started. • Backup pump does not run;
Is master
cylinder Is the master
Yes cylinder differential No Problem is probably with
reservoir the brake control module.
more than pressure switch
closed to ground? Check for malfunction.
1/2 full?
No Yes
Fill master
cylinder Is there a leak No Has someone
reservoir in the brake recently worked
with brake fluid system? on the brake
fluid. Yes system?
No Yes
Continuity
No
Diagnose and repair per Figure 9.
Check the After completing the repair,
Are the light Yes fluid level push very hard on the brake
and buzzer The problem is probably with
switch for pedal to recenter the differential
still ON? the differential pressure switch.
continuity. pressure switch and shut−off the Replace the master cylinder.
No brake light. If this does not
Continuity See Subject 140.
work, loosen one line at the
master cylinder and step on the
Check brake fluid brake pedal to recenter the
system for leakage differential valve. If stepping
Replace fluid
per Figure 9. on the brake pedal with the line
level switch.
Check pads for wear. loose does not make the brake
Replace if worn out. light go out, tighten that line
and repeat the process by
loosening the other line.
02/04/2010 f040623
Fig. 2, Flow Chart: Brake Warning Light and Buzzer for Service Brake Problems
• The backup pump does not provide sufficient • The power brake booster does not return to
pressure. the released position.
See Fig. 6 for abnormal brake conditions flow chart. • The brake pedal linkage does not return to the
Fig. 7 illustrates how the rubber seals swell if ATF is released position.
put into the master cylinder. • The master cylinder does not return to the re-
See Fig. 8 for flow chart regarding very hard brake leased position.
pedal feel. • The ABS system is trapping hydraulic pres-
sure.
Hydraulic System Leakage • The brake calipers don’t release.
See Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 if hydraulic fluid leakage is • The brake lines or hoses are plugged, kinked,
detected. or collapsed.
See Fig. 11 for the most frequent leak points at the
NOTE: Some tests require doing things in the
power brake booster.
cab while at the same time, or within a few sec-
If fluid is leaking from any of the points listed in onds, watching what happens elsewhere on the
Fig. 11, see Fig. 12. vehicle. These tests require two people.
Brakes are Dragging See Fig. 13 and Fig. 14 for complete brake drag di-
agnostics.
The following are possible causes for brake drag:
Short Pad Life, Uneven Pad vehicle usage or the driver’s braking habits. For
low temperature or low duty conditions, consult
Wear, or Overheated Brakes the brake manufacturer for appropriate replace-
ment linings.
NOTE: Because of vast differences in vehicle
types, usage, terrain, driving style and many
other factors, it is not possible to make a gen-
eral prediction of brake lining life. In some cases
of severe usage, short lining life is to be ex-
pected and does not indicate a problem in the
brake system.
1. Check whether the brake pads are wearing ab-
normally. For instance, check whether the inner
and outer pads are wearing unevenly.
2. If the brakes are dragging, smoking, overheating,
smelling, pulling, or if there is poor acceleration,
see Fig. 13.
If the brake wear is not caused by one of these
conditions, the problem is probably related to
2
1
+ +
6
3
5
+ 4
08/15/2002 f430322
1. Fluid Level Indicator Switch 4. Relay
2. Flow Switch 5. Backup Pump
3. Brake Light Switch 6. Differential Pressure Switch
Fig. 4, Electrical Components of the Master Cylinder and Power Brake Booster
Verify that the backup No Disconnect flow switch connector. Check continuity
pump does not run with the in circuit 388G from the relay to the flow switch
key on, engine off, and connector and check continuity through the flow switch.
park brake applied. Is there
voltage to the backup
pump?
Is wire No Problem is probably with the
Yes continuity OK? wire. Repair the wire.
No No
Check circuit 388E. See Check the ignition relay circuit 388F and brake
Specifications 400 for light switch to relay circuit for continuity and
wiring detail. properly functioning switches. See
Specifications 400 for wiring detail.
09/30/2002 f040625
The brake pedal drops about The brake pedal feels spongy, The brake pedal continues The brake pedal
1/2−inch (12mm) when the soft or springy. to fall with steady foot force. feels very hard. See
engine starts (foot off pedal). Figure 8.
Remove filler cap from the No, all Does the problem
Does the problem exist only
master cylinder. Look at the the time exist only after No, all
after hard braking or braking the time
diaphragm inside the cap. Is Yes hard braking or Bleed the brakes.
on downgrades, causing
the diaphragm swollen? See braking on See Subject 110.
brake calipers to get hot?
Figure 7. downgrades, cau−
No Yes Yes sing brake calipers
to get hot?
Problem is probably Remove the fill cap
caused by excessive flow Problem is probably from the master Does the
from the power steering caused by air trapped cylinder. Look at the Condition No
corrected condition still
pump. Repair or replace in the brake fluid sys− diaphragm inside the exist?
the power steering pump. tem. Bleed the brakes. cap. Is the diaphragm
No
See Group 46. See Subject 110. swollen? See Figure 7. Yes
03/21/2003 f040626
A B
08/16/2002 f430324
A. Reservoir cap and diaphragm from uncontaminated
system.
B. Reservoir cap and diaphragm from a system
contaminated with power steering fluid, motor oil or
ATF.
Yes
07/30/2004 f040627
Is the leak at the Caliper Is leak at the bleed No Is leak at the tube No
ABS valve, calipers, screw? fitting?
booster, master
Booster or Master Brake Yes Yes
cylinder, or lines
Cylinder and fittings? Lines/Fittings
Tighten bleed screw to Tighten the tube fitting
proper torque. See to proper torque. See
ABS Specifications 400. Specifications 400.
Go to Figure 10.
No Yes
03/21/2003 f040628
ATF
1 2
09/30/2002 f430323
1. Flow Switch and Power Brake Booster Interface
2. Inlet Port
3. Booster, Adapter and Pump Interface
4. Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Interface
Yes
The problem is probably The problem is Clean and examine sealing surfaces and seal
The problem is probably with
with the flow switch O−ring. probably with the grooves of the adapter, backup pump, and booster
the inlet fitting O−ring. Re−
Replace the O−ring. See backup pump. Re− housing.
place the O−ring.
Subject 170. place the pump.
Replace the
The problem is probably with Yes Are surfaces and No
damaged
the seals between the backup grooves flat and free
component.
pump adapter and booster of damage?
housing. Replace the seals.
03/21/2003 f040630
No
Apply & release the brakes, Does fluid flow out No Tighten tube nut. No Tighten secondary tube nut.
Does fluid flow out
loosen the primary tube nut under pressure? Apply & release See Specifications 400 for
under pressure?
within a few seconds. See brakes, loosen sec− torque value.
Figure 15. Yes ondary tube nut Yes
within a few seconds.
Apply & release brake pedal,
and within a few seconds:
1. Remove the pin that holds
Tighten the tube nuts to proper torque listed in The problem is probably
the pedal rod to the pedal
Specifications 400. Loosen two of the four nuts with the antilock braking
arm.
holding the master cylinder to the booster by at system (ABS). See
2. Open the primary tube nut
least 1/8−inch. Apply and release the brakes, Section 42.26.
at master cylinder.
and within a few seconds. After releasing the
brakes, loosen the remaining two nuts by
1/8−inch. Pull the master cylinder away from the
booster, and loosen the primary tube nut.
The problem is probably
Does fluid flow out with the booster or pedal
under pressure at linkage.
the tube nut? The problem is probably with
Does fluid flow out Yes the master cylinder. Replace
Yes No
The problem is under pressure? the master cylinder. See
probably with Subject 140.
the pedal No
The problem is linkage. Adjust
probably with the the linkage.
booster. Replace Tighten the tube
it. See Subject 170. nuts and the four
booster nuts. See
Specifications 400
for torque value.
Tighten all tube nuts. See Specifi−
cations 400 for torque value.
04/23/2003 f040632
Brake System Pressure Tests If the residual pressure on one or both gauges is
more than 2 psi (14 kPa), check the linkage be-
tween the brake pedal and the booster. Repair
NOTE: On most vehicles in the field, the pri- the linkage if needed. Repeat steps 3 and 4. If
mary master cylinder piston controls the rear the problem is solved, go to "System Pressure
brakes, the secondary piston, the front brakes. Test" below. If the problem is not solved, con-
But on some vehicles the primary master cylin- tinue these steps.
der piston controls the front brakes, the second-
ary master cylinder piston controls the rear 6. Check the hydraulic lines for internal blockage or
kinking and replace them as needed. Repeat
brakes. Either configuration is considered nor- steps 3 and 4. If the problem is solved, go to
mal and they are functionally identical. Techni- "System Pressure Test" below. If the problem is
cians should check vehicle configuration for ap- not solved, continue with these steps.
propriate diagnosis and repair.
7. Check for residual pressure at the master cylin-
1. Install two low-pressure gauges with a range of 0 der. Replace as needed. Go to "System Pressure
to 50 psi (345 kPa) — one at the rear wheels, Test" below.
and one at the front wheels. See Fig. 1.
System Pressure Test
4 1. Install two pressure gauges with a range of 0 to
5
2500 psi (17,250 kPa) — one at the rear wheels,
3 and one at the front wheels. See Fig. 1.
2 2. Bleed the brakes following the procedure under
1 7
Subject 110.
6
3. Make a copy of Table 1. Use this copy to record
the results from the next step.
A B
Test Results
04/16/2003 f430339 Gauge 1 Gauge 2
Pressure Test (installed at (installed at
A. Install gauge #2 B. Install gauge #1
rear wheel) front wheel)
here. here.
1. Front Brake 5. Power Brake Booster Rapid Pressure Rise Yes No Yes No
2. Front Brake Lines 6. Rear Brake Lines Slow Pressure Rise Yes No Yes No
3. Master Cylinder 7. Rear Brake
4. Reservoir Highest Reading (psi) psi psi
Pressure Constant Yes No Yes No
Fig. 1, Gauge Installation
Table 1, Test Results
2. Bleed the brakes following the procedure in Sub-
ject 110.
4. Start the engine. Quickly apply the brakes using
3. With the ignition off, lightly apply the brakes sev- full pedal force. Hold the pedal down for 15 to 20
eral times. Do not push hard on the brake pedal seconds. Record the speed of the pressure rise,
or you may damage the low-pressure gauges. the highest pressure registered on each gauge
4. Release the brakes. Read the residual pressure and whether the pressure stayed constant while
on both gauges. Record the information. the pedal was held down. Use a copy of Table 1
to record your observations.
5. If the residual pressure on either gauge is less
than 2 psi (14 kPa), go to "System Pressure 5. If the pressure reading on both gauges is not
Test" below. within 10 percent, the ABS may be affecting
readings (Section 42.26). Replace the master
cylinder if needed. Remove the pressure gauges.
Bleed the system following the instructions in on the brake pedal and hold it down for 15 to 20
Subject 110. seconds. If both gauges hold constant pressure
while the pedal is down, repair or replace the
6. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
power steering pump. Bleed the system following
10 percent but the gauges show less than 1770
the instructions in Subject 110.
psi (12 200 kPa), turn off the engine but leave
the ignition on. Apply the brakes hard and hold If either gauge does not show constant pressure
the pedal down 15 to 20 seconds to test pres- with the pedal held down, there is probably leak-
sure from the backup pump. age between the master cylinder and the cali-
pers.
If both gauges show at least 860 psi (5930 kPa),
replace the power steering pump. Remove the 10. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
pressure gauges. Bleed the system following the 10 percent, the gauges show at least 1770 psi
instructions in Subject 110. (12 200 kPa), the pressure comes up rapidly on
both gauges and there is constant gauge pres-
If both gauges do not show at least 860 psi
sure while the pedal is depressed but the brake
(5930 kPa), replace the power brake booster.
pedal did not stay firm, there is probably leakage
Bleed the system following the instructions in
in the lines between the master cylinder and cali-
Subject 110.
pers.
7. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
11. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
10 percent and the gauges show at least 1770
10 percent, the gauges show at least 1770 psi
psi (12 200 kPa), but the pressure came up
(12 200 kPa), the pressure comes up rapidly on
slowly on both gauges, turn off the engine leav-
both gauges, there is constant gauge pressure
ing the ignition on. Apply the brakes hard, hold
while the pedal is depressed and the brake pedal
down the pedal 15 to 20 seconds. If there was a
stays firm, the system is good. Remove the pres-
rapid pressure rise on both gauges, repair or re-
sure gauges. Bleed the system following the in-
place the power steering pump. Remove the
structions in Subject 110. If the problem still ex-
pressure gauges. Bleed the system following the
ists, check the foundation brakes.
instructions in Subject 110.
If the pressure rose slowly on both gauges, re-
pair or replace the power brake booster. Remove
the pressure gauges. Bleed the system following
the instructions in Subject 110.
8. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
10 percent and the gauges show at least 1770
psi (12 200 kPa), but the pressure comes up
rapidly on one gauge and slowly on the other,
there is probably a restriction in the brake sys-
tem with the slow gauge. Remove the gauge and
install it closer to the master cylinder until the
pressure rises rapidly. The restriction is between
that point and the point of previous installation.
Repair or replace the brake line as needed. Re-
move the pressure gauges. Bleed the system
following the instructions in Subject 110.
9. If the pressure reading on both gauges is within
10 percent, the gauges show at least 1770 psi
(12 200 kPa) and the pressure came up rapidly
on both gauges but the gauges do not hold con-
stant pressure while the pedal is held down, turn
off the engine. Leave the ignition on. Push hard
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
Fig. 3
09/27/2002 f422371
Fig. 1, Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Wiring (full view)
Fig. 3
09/27/2002 f422372
Fig. 2, Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Wiring (partial view)
Fig. 2
Fig. 2
09/27/2002 f422373
Fig. 3, Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Wiring (partial view)
Fastener Torques
Description Torque: lbf·in (N·cm) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Power Brake Booster Mounting Bolts — 20 ±4 (28 ±6)
Master Cylinder Tube Nuts – Max.16.5 (22.6)
Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts — 27 ±2 (37 ±3)
Power Brake Booster Supply Line — 21 ±5 (27 ±7)
Fitting
Backup Pump Mounting Screws — 21.5 ±3.5 (29.2 ±4.7)
Relay Mount Screw 78 ±3 (77 ±7) 6.5 ±0.5 (8.75 ±0.85)
Flow Switch Contact Assembly 30 ±3 (30 ±0.10) 2.5 ±0.8 (3.4 ±1.1)
Differential Pressure Switch Contact 12 ±3(12 ±0.3) 1 ±0.25 (1.4 ±0.3)
Assembly
Backup Pump Terminal Nut 17 ±4 (17 ±0.7) 1.4 ±0.5 (1.92 ±0.8)
Table 1, Fastener Torques
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 6
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Fig. 5
6
7
8
9
07/07/98 f420051a
Principles of Operation
The greater the air pressure admitted to the brake
chamber, the greater the force applied by the piston
Operating Test
1. Chock the tires.
2. Apply the brakes. Check that each piston rod
moves out promptly, without binding.
3. Release the brakes. Check that each piston rod
returns to the released position promptly, without
binding.
4. Check the brake chamber stroke. It should be as
short as possible without causing the brakes to
drag. If needed, adjust the travel of the piston
rod at the slack adjuster. For instructions, refer to
the foundation brake section in this manual.
Leakage Test
1. Apply the brakes and hold them on full line pres-
sure of at least 80 psi (550 kPa).
2. Using a soap solution, coat the clamp ring. Leak-
age is excessive if it produces a 1-inch (25-mm)
bubble within five seconds.
CAUTION
Don’t overtighten the clamp ring. This can distort
the flange sealing surface, or the clamp ring it-
self.
3. If the leakage is excessive, tighten the clamp
ring flange nuts evenly until the leakage is re-
duced. For acceptable torque ranges, see Speci-
fications 400.
4. Using a soap solution, coat the area around the
piston-rod hole. No leakage is permitted. If there
is leakage, replace the diaphragm. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 110.
Replacement 2
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys- 6
tem or loosening an air line because dirt or 7
sludge could fly out at high speeds. Don’t direct
the airstreams at anyone. Don’t disconnect pres- 8
surized hoses, since they may whip as air es-
capes. Failure to take all necessary precautions 9
could result in personal injury. 07/07/98 f420051a
Removal
2 3
1. Chock the tires. 1
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys-
tem or loosening an air line because dirt or
sludge could fly out at high speeds. Do not direct
the airstreams at other people. Do not disconnect
pressurized hoses, since they may whip as air 7 4
escapes. Failure to take all necessary precau- 8
tions could result in severe personal injury. 5
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations 6
when working on any air device so as to avoid 9
injury or damage from parts which, when re-
leased, are subject to mechanical (spring) or
compressed-air propulsion.
2. Drain the air reservoirs and lines. 10/11/94 f420386b
3. Carefully disconnect the air line from the brake 1. Chamber Mounting 6. Chamber Mounting
chamber. Bracket Stud
2. Brake Chamber 7. Clevis Assembly
4. Remove the brake chamber. See Fig. 1. 3. Air Line 8. Slack Adjuster
4. Hardened (Automatic Type)
4.1 Remove the cotter pin(s) from the clevis Flatwasher 9. Camshaft Tube
pin(s). 5. Prevailing Torque
Locknut
NOTE: Automatic slack adjusters have two
clevis pins, one large and one small, each Fig. 1, Brake Chamber Mounting
locked by a cotter pin.
2.3 Connect the clevis pins to the slack ad-
4.2 Remove the clevis pin(s) from the slack juster.
adjuster.
2.4 Install and lock new cotter pin(s) to secure
4.3 From each mounting stud, remove any the clevis pin(s).
installed nuts and washers. Remove the
brake chamber from the vehicle. NOTE: Automatic slack adjusters have two
clevis pins, one large and one small, each
Installation locked by a cotter pin.
3. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. For in-
1. Before installing a new chamber, be sure the structions, refer to the applicable foundation
new chamber is the same size and make as the brake section in this manual.
brake chamber on the other side of the axle.
4. Connect the air line to the brake chamber.
2. Install the brake chamber. See Fig. 1.
4.1 Check that the hoses are properly sup-
2.1 Attach the brake chamber to the mounting ported and, if needed, clamped to provide
bracket using a hardened flatwasher and good clearance.
prevailing torque locknut. Install the flat-
washer between the locknut and the 4.2 Before connecting the air line, make sure
mounting bracket. the fittings are clean and free of debris.
2.2 Tighten the locknuts. See Specifica- 4.3 Connect the air line as follows: tighten the
tions 400 for the correct torque value. nut finger-tight. Using a wrench, further
1 3
4
5
10/11/94 f420433a
6 A. Reference Line
7 Fig. 2, Mark a Reference Line
8
3.3 Remove the clevis locknut and clevis
from the piston rod, and release the
9
clamp on the piston rod, being careful to
07/07/98 f420051a contain the piston rod assembly and body
1. Clamp Ring 6. Piston Rod Assembly until the return spring is relaxed.
2. Cover Assembly 7. Piston Rod Nut
3. Diaphragm 8. Clevis 3.4 Remove the piston rod assembly and
4. Body Assembly 9. Clevis Pin spring.
5. Piston Rod Spring
Assembly
1. Stand the piston rod assembly upright on a flat
surface (if the chamber was removed from the
vehicle).
2. Assemble the brake chamber.
2.1 Place the return spring on the piston rod.
2.2 Place the body on the piston rod assem-
bly, and press the body down, working
against the tension of the spring, until the
body bottoms out on the flat surface.
Clamp the rod at the body, making sure
to protect the rod from damage. Insert the
piston rod assembly through the body
and clamp the rod (if the body wasn’t re-
moved from the vehicle).
2.3 Place the diaphragm in the body.
CAUTION
Don’t overtighten the clamp ring. This can distort
the flange sealing surface, or the clamp ring it-
self.
2.4 Position the cover assembly and clamp
ring (aligning the reference marks), and
install the clamp ring bolt and flange nut.
Tighten the flange nuts evenly to elimi-
nate leakage. For acceptable torque
ranges, see Specifications 400.
3. Install the clevis locknut and clevis, and release
the clamp on the piston rod.
4. If the brake chamber was removed from the ve-
hicle, install it. For instructions, see Subject 120.
5. Do both of the tests found in Subject 100.
General Information
This troubleshooting guide is designed to help locate
causes of problems originating in the air brake sys-
tem. The corrective measures given are not intended
to replace the detailed service information found in
other sections of this manual or in the component
manufacturer’s service manuals. If the vehicle is
equipped with ABS (antilock brake system), see Sec-
tion 42.00 for troubleshooting the ABS system.
Safety Precautions
WARNING
Follow the manufacturer’s procedures while
working on any air device. Some parts are sub-
ject to mechanical (spring) or pneumatic propul-
sion and may cause personal injury or property
damage when released. Failure to take all neces-
sary precautions during servicing of the air brake
system can result in personal injury or property
damage.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
The vehicle is overloaded. Observe the recommended maximum load limits.
There is low air pressure in the brake The drain cock on the air reservoir was left open; close the drain cock.
system, about 60 psi (413 kPa) or lower.
Check the compressor output pressure; correct as necessary.
Check the setting of the air governor with an accurate test gauge. Adjust the
air governor to the recommended specification.
The application air lines are leaking Check the application air lines, brake valve, and the service and parking brake
excessively. chambers for air leaks. Repair or replace the damaged component(s).
Brake valve delivery pressure is below Lubricate the brake valve parts; overhaul the unit, if necessary.
normal.
Wear or glazing of the brake linings is Install new brake linings on the brake shoes on both sides of the axle.
present.
Adjustment or lubrication of the brakes is Adjust or lubricate the brakes.
needed.
The automatic slack adjusters are not Lubricate the automatic slack adjusters and check for binding, damaged, or
operating. inoperative slack adjuster parts. Replace damaged or inoperative parts, or
eliminate the cause of the binding.
The cam has flipped over. Replace the linings and the cam on each end of the axle.
One or more of the brake drums is broken Replace the brake drum(s).
or cracked.
Wrong size brake linings were installed. Replace the brake linings with the recommended size.
Wrong size brake chambers were Replace the brake chambers with the recommended size.
installed.
A camshaft bracket or chamber mounting Replace the camshaft bracket or chamber mounting bracket.
bracket is bent or broken.
The brake chamber mounting stud nuts or Tighten the brake chamber to its mounting bracket or the mounting bracket to
brake chamber mounting bracket is loose. the foundation brake housing.
There is a ruptured diaphragm in the Replace the diaphragm.
service brake.
Problem — Service Brakes Apply When the Parking Brakes Are Released With Air Pressure
Problem — Service Brakes Apply When the Parking Brakes Are Released With Air Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
The air delivery lines to the brake chamber Reverse the connections of the brake chamber air lines.
have been reversed.
Problem — Insufficient Parking Brake Application When Dash Control Valve Is Activated
Problem — Insufficient Parking Brake Application When Dash Control Valve Is Activated
Possible Cause Remedy
The brakes are improperly adjusted. Adjust the brakes.
A power spring is broken. Replace the parking/emergency brake section.
A power spring in a parking brake is Release the power spring by screwing in the release bolt.
manually caged.
Problem — Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Released
Problem — Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Released
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake foot valve is leaking. Repair or replace the brake foot valve.
The air compressor discharge valve is Repair or replace the discharge valve. If disassembly is not recommended by
leaking. the compressor manufacturer, replace the air compressor with a factory-rebuilt
or a new unit.
The air governor is leaking. Repair or replace the air governor.
Problem — Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Fully Applied
Problem — Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Fully Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
A service or parking brake chamber is Tighten the clamp ring(s). If leaks persist, replace the diaphragm(s) or
leaking. assembly.
The brake foot valve or relay valve is Repair or replace the component(s) or assembly.
leaking.
General Information 2
1
The DV-2 automatic reservoir drain valve automati- 3
cally ejects moisture and contaminants from the res-
ervoir in which it is connected. If operates automati-
cally and requires no manual assistance or control
lines from other sources.
The automatic reservoir drain valve (Fig. 1) has a die 4
cast aluminum body and cover and is nomally
mounted either in the bottom of the reservoir using
the top port of the rain valve or in the end of an end
drain reservoir using the side port of the valve. 5
7 6
The DV-2 is also available with a heater and thermo- 8
09/26/94 f420041a
stat (Fig. 2) cast into the cover for vehicles operated
in subfreezing temberatures. A 1/4-inch male pipe 1. Top Reservoir Port 5. Lockwasher (4 qty.)
adaptor is supplied with all DV-2 drain valves, end 2. Valve Body 6. Capscrew (4 qty.)
drain and bottom drain, both standard and heated. 3. Hexhead Nipple 7. Valve Cover
4. Side Reservoir Port 8. Exhaust Port
This adaptor should be installed directly into the
valve.
Fig. 1, Standard DV-2 Valve
With no pressure in the system, the drain valve’s
inlet and exhaust valves are closed. See Fig. 3.
Upon charging the system, a slight pressure opens
the inlet valve which permits air and contaminants to
collect in the sump. See Fig. 4. The inlet valve re-
mains open when pressure is rising in the system
until the air compressor cuts off, allowing the spring
action of the valve guide in the sump cavity to close
the inlet valve. The inlet valve and the exhaust valve
are now both closed. See Fig. 5. When the reservoir
pressure drops approximately 2 psi (14 kPa), the air
pressure in the sump cavity opens the exhaust valve 10/03/2001 f430277
and allows moisture and contaminants to be ejected
from the sump cavity until pressure in the sump cav- Fig. 2, DV-2 Valve with Heater/Thermostat
ity drops sufficiently to close the exhaust valve. See
Fig. 6.
The length of time the exhaust valve remains open
and the amount of moisture and contaminants
ejected depends upon the sump pressure and the
wet tank pressure drop that occurs each time air is
used from the system.
05/25/2005 f421885
05/25/2005 f421886
05/25/2005 f421887
05/25/2005 f421888
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Operating Test
Perform the following test after repairing or replacing
the DV-2 valve to ensure that the valve is functioning
properly.
With the system charged, apply the brakes several
times. Each time the brakes are applied, an exhaust
of air should occur from the exhaust port of the drain
valve. If no air comes out, push the wire stem lo-
cated inside the exhaust port. If no air comes out
after pushing the wire stem, there may be a plugged
filter in the adapter which should be replaced.
If the drain valve does not function properly, replace
it following the instructions in Subject 120.
Leakage Test
Perform the following test after repairing or replacing
the DV-2 valve to ensure that the valve is functioning
properly.
With the system charged and pressure stabilized in
the system, there should be no leaks at the drain
valve exhaust port. A constant slight exhaust of air at
the drain valve exhaust port could be caused by ex-
cessive leakage in the air brake system.
If the drain valve is leaking excessively, repair it fol-
lowing the instructions in Subject 120.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
2. Drain the air system.
3. If the DV-2 with heater/thermostat is installed,
disconnect heater wire from the valve.
4. Remove the drain valve assembly from the end
of the wet tank air reservoir.
Installation
IMPORTANT: When installing a DV-2 drain valve
equipped with a heater and thermostat, the #14
gauge lead wire on the valve should be con-
nected to the ON position of the engine control
or ignition switch. Use an 8 amp fuse for one
valve, a 15 amp fuse for two valves, and a 20
amp fuse for three valves. All electrical connec-
tions must be waterproof.
1. Using a cleaning solvent, thoroughly flush and
clean the wet tank reservoir to avoid early fouling
at the drain valve. Aerate the wet tank thoroughly
if solvents were used during cleaning.
2. Install the drain valve assembly on the wet tank
by tightening the hexagonal nipple until the drain
valve is positioned so that the valve body is par-
allel to the bottom of the wet tank with the ex-
haust port facing straight down. Make sure that
the exhaust port is clear of any air, electric, or
fuel lines. Make sure the drain valve is attached
tight enough to prevent leakage.
3. If installing a DV-2 with heater/thermostat, con-
nect heater wire.
4. Close the drain cocks to the supply and service
reservoirs. Start the vehicle engine to pressurize
the air system.
Disassembly
10/03/2001 f430277
8
7 WARNING
12 9
13 Use eye protection when using compressed air to
09/29/94 11 10 f420780a clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes
1. Top Reservoir Port 8. Valve Guide could result from flying debris.
2. Valve Body 9. Valve Cover 1. Wash all metal parts of the drain valve in an ap-
3. Filter Retainer 10. Exhaust Port
proved cleaning solvent. Dry the metal parts of
4. Hexhead Nipple 11. Wire Stem
5. Side Reservoir Port 12. Lockwasher (4 qty.) the disassembled moisture ejection valve with
6. Inlet and Exhaust 13. Capscrew (4 qty.) compressed air.
Valve 14. Inlet Valve Seat 2. Wipe all rubber parts with a clean cloth. Examine
7. Valve Sealing Ring all rubber parts for wear, cracks, tears, or other
deterioration. If any rubber parts are worn,
Fig. 1, Standard DV-2 Valve (cutaway view) cracked, torn or otherwise deteriorated, replace
1. Remove the drain valve following the instructions them with new parts.
in Subject 120. 3. Examine all metal parts for wear, cracks, or other
2. Remove the four capscrews that hold the valve damage. If any metal parts are worn, cracked, or
cover to the valve body. otherwise damaged, replace them with new
parts. Discard filter screen, if present.
3. Remove the valve cover and sealing ring.
NOTE: For vehicles equipped with the DV-2 with Assembly
heater/thermostat (Fig. 2), the heater and ther-
mostat are not serviceable. If the heater or ther- Before assembling the drain valve, apply a light film
mostat has failed, the entire cover must be re- of grease on the inlet valve seat.
placed. Do not remove the thermostat cover
plate. It is moisture sealed and removal could CAUTION
result in early thermostat failure.
Do not apply oil to the inlet and exhaust valve.
Torque Values
Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm)
Valve Cover Capscrews 72–96 (820–1080)
Hexhead Nipple 48–72 (540–820)
Table 1, Torque Values
08/09/2001 f422257
1
2
3
7 2 6
3
6
5
5 4 2
12/19/2001 f543857
12/19/2001 4 f543865
1. Electrical Connector 1. Electrical Connector
2. Application Supply Air Ports 2. Switch 1 Supply Port
3. Primary Supply Air Port 3 Switch 1 Supply Port
4. Secondary Supply Air Port 4. Switch 2 Supply Port
5. Shut-off Valve 5. Non-Thru Port
6. Secondary Air Internal Delivery Port 6. Internal Delivery Port - RH side only (parking brake
7. Non-Thru Port air)
Fig. 2, Pressure Switch Module "A" Fig. 3, Pressure Switch Module "B"
switch(es) when the pressure exceeds the specified
switch setting. 1
The inlet to the solenoid module mates to the port on The external supply, control, and delivery ports are
the adjacent pressure protection module or another on the face of the module.
solenoid module. Pressure protected air will pass
through the module from the internal supply port and
out of the internal delivery port to supply the next
solenoid module.
Each solenoid module is a three-way (supply, deliv-
ery and exhaust) on-off air valve. Every solenoid
module has an internal pressure switch that monitors 1
delivery pressure.
12/19/2001 f543864
4
12/19/2001 f543860
1. Electrical Connector 1
2. Internal Supply Port
3. Non-Thru Port
4. Delivery Port
2
Fig. 5, Solenoid Module
Double-Check Module 3 4
The double-check module (Fig. 6) delivers the higher
air pressure of two separate input pressures. There
are no internal air supply or delivery ports. There is 12/19/2001 f543862
one external outlet port on the face of the double 1. External Supply Port
check module. 2. External Delivery Port
3. External Control Port
Inversion Module 4. Closed, Non-Thru Ports
Relay Valve 1
The relay valve (Fig. 8) is a normally closed air valve
that delivers system air pressure when the control
pressure exceeds the specified level. There is one
internal control port on the left side of the module
that will mate with pressure switch "B" module 2
(Fig. 3) to receive parking brake air. The control,
supply, and delivery ports are on the face of the
module.
4
1
12/19/2001 f543861
2 1. External Supply Port
5 2. External Delivery Port
3. Pressure Adjustment Knob
4. Closed, Non-Thru Ports
4
3
4 Fig. 9, Regulator Module
12/19/2001 f543863
End Block
The ported end block module (Fig. 10) contains ports
that are used to deliver air to another AMU on the
vehicle or to modules at the other end of the AMU.
A non-ported end block is also available.
08/09/2001 1 f422261
A. Separate the AMU to remove the module.
1. Lock Key
Optional Pressure Switch Ground Circuit Test (configurations 3 & 4 only - hydraulic brakes)
NOTE: If any test fails, the Pressure Switch Module A is defective and must be replaced.
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Optional ·Key OFF, Engine OFF. Resistance Less than 1 ohm. Check ground circuit
Pressure Check: wiring.
Switch ·Battery disconnected.
Ground Measured
·Pressure Switch "A" 6-way between pin B
Circuit connector disconnected. (harness side)
and the negative
battery terminal.
Optional ·Key OFF, Engine OFF Resistance Check With the leads connected Faulty Pressure Switch
Pressure (or diode test if one way, the meter "A".
Switch Diode ·Pressure Switch "A" 6-way meter is capable): should read resistance
connector disconnected. (value not important),
Applies to Measured then when the leads are
part numbers ·Drain air tanks. between pins A reversed, the reading
12-18205- and B (switch should be infinite or OL.
XXX For all side). Then,
other part reverse test leads NOTE: If the result is 0
numbers: and check again. ohms both ways, either
Skip this step. the diode is shorted or
the pressure switch is
stuck closed. If the result
was OL both ways, then
the diode is open.
Optional ·Key OFF, Engine OFF Resistance Less than 1 ohm (test Faulty Pressure Switch
Pressure Check: leads both ways) "A".
Switch ·Pressure Switch "A" 6-way
connector disconnected. Measured If the resistance is more
between pins A than 1 ohm either way,
·Drain air tanks. and B (switch then the optional
·Open the 3-way shut-off valve side). Then, pressure switch is not
on the module. reverse test leads closing between 65 and
and check again. 75 psi (448 and 517
·Disconnect the SEC port on the kPa).
face of the module and connect
a regulated air supply setup as
in Fig. 1 to the port.
·Using the setup in Fig. 1, close
Valve "A" and Valve "B". Back
the regulator screw off so that
the downstream pressure is
zero. Connect shop air to the
test apparatus. Open Valve "A".
Apply 80 psi (551 kPa) to the
SEC port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. This should
cause the optional pressure
switch to close.
Table 6, Optional Pressure Switch Ground Circuit Test (configuration 3 and 4 only - hydraulic brakes)
Pressure Protection Valves also shuts off the supply to the valve if the delivery
pressure falls below the determined setting. Refer to
General Information Table 8 for PPV open and closing pressures.
The pressure protection module shuts off all delivery
air if the supply falls below the determined setting. It
Solenoid Valve Pressure Switch Functional Test (for normally closed valves only)
Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
·Drain the air tanks. Solenoid Valve Pressure With the Solenoid Energized: Replace solenoid valve.
Switch Functional Test:
·Solenoid valve connector The resistance, with the
disconnected. Using a fused jumper wire, leads both ways, should be
connect solenoid pin C less than 1 ohm, and the
·Disconnect the air line to the (solenoid valve side) to the pressure gauge should read
external delivery port on the positive battery post. Using 55 psi (379 kPa) or 85 psi
solenoid valve and connect another jumper wire, connect (586 kPa), depending on the
an accurate pressure gauge solenoid pin D (solenoid upstream pressure protection
in its place. valve side) to ground. valve.
·Start the engine and build Do not reverse the polarity With the Solenoid De-
air to full pressure. Shut the of the solenoid coil, energized:
engine OFF. damage to the internal
diode may result. The resistance, with the
·Key OFF, Engine OFF leads both ways, should be
Once the solenoid has been more than 1 ohm, and the
energized, measure the pressure gauge should read
resistance across pins A and 0 psi.
B, then reverse the leads and
check again. NOTE: Solenoid valves with
a part number 12-18208-XXX
have a diode wired in parallel
with the pressure switch.
Table 12, Solenoid Valve Pressure Switch Functional Test (for normally closed valves only)
Solenoid Valve Pressure Switch Functional Test (for normally open valves only)
Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
·Drain the air tanks. Solenoid Valve Pressure With the Solenoid Energized: Replace solenoid valve.
Switch Functional Test:
·Solenoid valve connector The resistance with the leads
disconnected. Using a fused jumper wire, both ways should be more
connect solenoid pin C than 1 ohm and the pressure
·Disconnect the air line to the (solenoid valve side) to the gauge should read 0 psi.
external delivery port on the positive battery post. Using
solenoid valve and connect another jumper wire, connect With the solenoid De-
an accurate pressure gauge solenoid pin D (solenoid energized:
in its place. valve side) to ground. The resistance with the leads
·Start the engine and build Do not reverse the polarity both ways should be less
air to full pressure. Shut the of the solenoid coil, than 1 ohm and the pressure
engine OFF. damage to the internal gauge should read 55 psi or
diode may result. 85 psi, depending on
·Key OFF, Engine OFF upstream pressure protection
Once the solenoid has been valve.
energized, measure the
resistance across pins A and Note: Solenoid valves with a
B, then reverse the leads and part number 12-18208-XXX
check again. have a diode wired in parallel
with the pressure switch.
Then disconnect the jumpers
and measure the resistance
across pins A and B again,
then reverse the leads and
check again.
Table 13, Solenoid Valve Pressure Switch Functional Test (for normally open valves only)
Test Test
Perform the followings pressure regulator valve test To test the inversion valve, a simple tester can be
to determine if the pressure valve module is function- constructed consisting of a regulator valve, two
ing correctly. If the test fails, replace the module. valves, a pressure gauge, and some air line. See
Fig. 1.
1. Drain the air tanks.
2. Disconnect the delivery port on the face of the B
module and connect an accurate pressure
gauge. 2
5. Next, apply shop air to the lower supply port. 5. Using the setup in Fig.1, close Valve "A" and
The pressure on the delivery port gauge should Valve "B". Back the regulator screw off so that
read shop air pressure. Check for leakage at the the downstream pressure is zero. Connect shop
upper supply port, using a soapy water solution. air to the test apparatus. Open Valve "A". The
There should be virtually no leakage (less than gauge on the delivery port of the inversion mod-
3/8-inch bubble in 1 minute). ule should read zero pressure.
6. Apply rising pressure to the control port by ad-
justing the pressure regulator. While increasing
the pressure, observe the pressure gauges.
When the control port pressure (regulated)
reaches approximately 18 to 24 psi (124 to 165
kPa), the delivery port (on relay module) should pend on an optional second normally open pressure
read pressure. switch. Some versions have internal ports, some do
not. See Table 15 for the variations of this module.
7. Once the delivery port gauge reads systems Pressure switch "B" modules with P/Ns 12-18206-
pressure, close Valve "A" on the test apparatus. XXX have diodes wired in parallel with the internal
Next, open Valve "B" slightly so as to relieve the pressure switches, all others do not.
control port pressure very slowly while observing
the pressure gauges. When the control port pres-
sure drops (pressure gauge on the test appara-
tus) to approximately 8 to 14 psi (55 to 96 kPa),
the pressure at the delivery port of the relay
valve should exhaust and read zero pressure.
Pressure Switch "B" Tests be tested is normally open or normally closed (see
Table 15.) Then test the pressure switch using the
For testing the pressure switches in pressure switch appropriate tables that follow.
module “B”, first determine if the pressure switch to
Testing Pressure Switch 1 — Switch "B" Module (all with normally closed pressure switch 1)
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Test if Switch Chock tires. Resistance Greater than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Opens at Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper Key OFF, engine OFF. NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure Measured less than 1 ohm, then the
Drain air tanks. between pin A pressure switch is not
Pressure switch "B" 4-way and B (switch opening within the proper
connector disconnected. side). pressure range, and is
therefore faulty.
Disconnect one of the SW1 ports
on the face of the module and
connect a regulated air supply
setup as in Fig. 1 to the SW1
port.
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of
the test apparatus. Back off the
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) above the
maximum opening pressure to
the SW1 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the opening pressure is 70–84
psi (483–579 kPa), then apply
89 psi (614 kPa) to the SW1
port. This should cause switch 1
to open.
Test if Switch Using the same apparatus as Resistance Less than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Closes at used in the previous test, close Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper valve "A", then back the
Pressure regulator off and bleed off all Measured
pressure to the SW1 port using between pin A
valve "B". Close valve "A" and and B (switch
valve "B" of the test apparatus. side).
Back off the regulator screw so
that the downstream pressure is
zero. Connect shop air to the
test apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) below the
minimum opening pressure to
the SW1 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the opening pressure is 70–84
psi (483–579 kPa), then apply
65 psi (448 kPa) to the SW1
port. This should cause switch 1
to close.
Table 16, Testing Pressure Switch 1 -- Switch "B" Module (all with normally closed pressure switch 1)
Testing Pressure Switch 1 – Switch "B" Module (All with normally open pressure switch 1)
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Test if Switch Chock tires. Resistance Greater than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Opens at Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper Key OFF, engine OFF. NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure Measured less than 1 ohm, then the
Drain air tanks. between pin A pressure switch is stuck
Pressure switch "B" 4-way and B (switch closed, and is therefore
connector disconnected. side). faulty.
Test if Switch Disconnect one of the SW1 ports Resistance Less than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Closes at on the face of the module and Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper connect a regulated air supply NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure setup as in Fig. 1 to the SW1 Measured greater than 1 ohms, then
port. between pin A the pressure switch is not
and B (switch closing within the proper
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of side). pressure range, and is
the test apparatus. Back off the therefore faulty.
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) above the
maximum closing pressure to the
SW1 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the closing pressure is 2–5 psi
(15–35 kPa) , then apply 10 psi
(69 kPa) to the SW1 port. This
should cause switch 1 to close.
Table 17, Testing Pressure Switch 1 -- Switch "B" Module (all with normally open pressure switch 1)
Testing Pressure Switch 2 – Switch "B" Module (all with normally closed pressure switch 2)
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Test if Switch Chock tires. Resistance Greater than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Opens at Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper Key OFF, engine OFF. NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure Measured less than 1 ohm, then the
Drain air tanks. between pin C pressure switch is not
Pressure switch "B" 4-way and D (switch opening within the proper
connector disconnected. side). pressure range, and is
therefore faulty.
Disconnect one of the SW2 ports
on the face of the module and
connect a regulated air supply
setup as in Fig. 1 to the SW2
port.
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of
the test apparatus. Back off the
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) above the
maximum opening pressure to
the SW2 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the opening pressure is 70–84
psi (483–579 kPa), then apply
89 (614 kPa) psi to the SW2
port. This should cause switch 2
to open.
Test if Switch Using the same apparatus as Resistance Less than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Closes at used in the previous test, close Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper valve "A", then back the NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure regulator off and bleed off all Measured greater than 1 ohm, then
pressure to the SW2 port using between pin C the pressure switch is not
valve "B". and D (switch closing within the proper
side). pressure range, and is
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of therefore faulty.
the test apparatus. Back off the
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) below the
minimum opening pressure to
the SW2 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the opening pressure is 70–84
psi (483–579 kPa), then apply
65 psi (448 kPa) to the SW2
port. This should cause switch 2
to close.
Table 18, Testing Pressure Switch 2 -- Switch "B" Module (all with normally closed pressure switch 2)
Testing Pressure Switch 2 – Switch "B" Module (all with normally open pressure switch 2)
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Test if Switch Chock tires. Resistance Greater than 1 ohm. Faulty Pessure Switch
Opens at Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper Key OFF, engine OFF. NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure Measured less than 1 ohm, then the
Drain air tanks. between pin C pressure switch is not
Pressure switch "B" 4-way and D (switch open within the proper
connector disconnected. Do the side). pressure range, and is
following for all N.O. SW2 therefore faulty.
modules except for modules
where the SW2 closing pressure
is 2–5 psi (15–35 kPa):
Disconnect one of the SW2 ports
on the face of the module and
connect a regulated air supply
setup as in Fig.1 to the SW2
port.
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of
the test apparatus. Back off the
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) below the
minimum closing pressure to the
SW2 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the closing pressure is 65–75
psi (448–517 kPa), then apply
60 psi (414 kPa) to the SW2
port. This should cause switch 2
to be open.
Testing Pressure Switch 2 – Switch "B" Module (all with normally open pressure switch 2)
Test Conditions Test Point Good Result If Test Fails:
Test if Switch Using the same apparatus as Resistance Less than 1 ohm. Faulty Pressure Switch
Closes at used in the previous test, close Check: "B". Replace it.
Proper valve "A", then back the NOTE: If the meter reads
Pressure regulator off and bleed off all Measured greater than 1 ohms, then
pressure to the SW2 port using between pin C the pressure switch is not
valve "B". and D (switch closing within the proper
side). pressure range, and is
Close valve "A" and valve "B" of therefore faulty.
the test apparatus. Back off the
regulator screw so that the
downstream pressure is zero.
Connect shop air to the test
apparatus. Open valve "A".
Apply 5 psi (35 kPa) above the
maximum closing pressure to the
SW2 port by adjusting the
pressure regulator. For example,
if the closing pressure is 65–75
psi (448–517 kPa), then apply
80 psi (552 kPa) to the SW2
port. This should cause switch 2
to close.
Table 19, Testing Pressure Switch 2 -- Switch "B" Module (all with normally open pressure switch 2)
Specifications
A B C D
Refer to the following figures and tables for electrical
schematics and corresponding part numbers for in-
ternal components of individual air management unit 3 3
(AMU) modules.
A B
3 3
1 2
08/01/2005 f544620
08/01/2005
1 f543990a
A–D are corresponding pins on electrical connector.
1. Switch 1
A & B are corresponding pins on electrical connector. 2. Switch 2
1. Switch 1 3. Diode (only on 12-18206-xxx)
2. Diode (only on 12-18206-xxx)
Fig. 8, Pressure Switch "B"
Fig. 6, Pressure Switch "B"
Pressure Switch "B" Part Numbers
Pressure Switch "B" Part Numbers
With Diode Without Diode
With Diode Without Diode
12-18206-006 A12-19777-006
12-18206-000 A12-19777-001
12-18206-007 A12-19777-007
12-18206-002 A12-19777-003
12-18206-011 A12-19777-011
12-18206-004 A12-19777-009
12-18206-012 A12-19777-012
12-18206-009 A12-19777-013
Table 7, Pressure Switch "B" Part Numbers
12-18206-013 —
Table 6, Pressure Switch "B" Part Numbers
See Fig. 9 for pressure switch "B" with SW 1 and
SW2 N.O. wiring, and Table 8 for corresponding part
See Fig. 7 for solenoid module wiring. numbers.
See Fig. 8 for pressure switch "B" with SW 1 and
SW 2 N.C. wiring, and Table 7 for corresponding
part numbers.
1 2
08/01/2005 f544621
A–D are corresponding pins on electrical connector.
1. Switch 1
2. Switch 2
3. Diode (only on 12-18206-014)
C D
08/01/2005
1 f544622
C & D are corresponding pins on electrical connector.
1. Switch 2
2. Diode (only on 12-18206-xxx)
General Information
The Bendix DC–4 shuttle-type double check valve
(Fig. 1) is normally used only when the vehicle is
equipped with a trailer hand control valve. Double
check valves are used in the air brake system to di- 1
rect a flow of air into a common line from either of
two sources, whichever is at the higher pressure. A
shuttle type valve has a movable shuttle to seal off
the lower pressure source and allow the air from the
higher pressure source to flow.
In this case, the valve allows air to be supplied to the
trailer brakes from either the hand control valve or
the foot valve, whichever supplies the higher pres-
sure. This allows the trailer brakes to be applied with
either the hand valve or the foot valve. If both the 2
foot and hand valves are applied simultaneously, the
DC–4 valve will supply air to the trailer brakes from
whichever valve is applying higher pressure.
10/16/2001 f430278
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Dropping air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters; they will apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jet or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if they are not cor-
rectly disassembled. Use only the correct tools,
and observe all precautions regarding use of
those tools.
Operating and Leakage Test the first port for leakage using a soap so-
lution. A 1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in
1. If testing the valve while in the vehicle, proceed 5 seconds is allowable. Connect the line
as follows: to the inlet port. Repeat this step, check-
ing the opposite inlet port for leaks.
1.1 Push in and release the foot brake pedal
while checking that the brakes apply and 3.4 If the double check valve does not func-
release on both the tractor and trailer. tion as described, or if the leakage is ex-
cessive, replace it. See Subject 120 for
1.2 Apply and release the trailer control valve instructions.
while checking that only the trailer brakes
apply and release. If the valve cannot be replaced, repair it
using Bendix parts. See Subject 130 for
1.3 Apply the trailer control valve and check instructions.
the exhaust port of the foot brake valve
for leakage using a soap solution. A
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in 5 sec-
onds is allowable. Release the valve.
1.4 Disconnect the air line from the trailer
control valve exhaust port. Push the foot
brake pedal until it stops and hold it in
place. Check the trailer control valve ex-
haust port for leakage using a soap solu-
tion. A 1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in 5
seconds is allowable.
1.5 Connect the air line to the trailer control
valve exhaust port.
1.6 If the double check valve does not func-
tion as described, or if the leakage is ex-
cessive, replace it. See Subject 120 for
instructions.
If the valve cannot be replaced, repair it
using Bendix parts. See Subject 130 for
instructions.
2. Connect two separately controlled air supplies to
the inlet ports.
3. If bench testing the valve, proceed as follows.
3.1 Apply and release air to one inlet port
(foot brake pedal) while checking that the
test gauge registers the application and
release.
3.2 Apply and release air to the other inlet
port (trailer control valve) while checking
that the gauge registers the application
and release.
3.3 Disconnect the line from one of the
double check valve inlet ports. Apply air
to the opposite inlet port while checking
10/16/2001 f430278
1. Foot Brake Valve
2. Double Check Valve
Installation
1. Screw the double check valve into the foot brake
valve. Tighten the valve firmly.
Assembly
1. Install the shuttle valve and shuttle guide in the
valve body.
2 3
7
6
5
09/29/94 1 f420341a
1. Supply Port 4. Valve Body 6. Shuttle Valve
2. End Cap 5. Shuttle Guide 7. Delivery Port
3. O-Ring
General Information When the front brake chambers are equipped with a
QR–1 valve, it is located on the forward face of the
crossmember just aft of the transmission. A delivery
QR-1 Valve line from the foot valve is connected to the port on
The function of the QR–1 quick release valve (Fig. 1) top of the QR–1 quick release valve; the two side
is to speed up the release of air pressure from the ports are for brake chamber connections, and the
front service brake chambers. When the front brake exhaust port is located at the bottom of the valve.
chambers are equipped with a QR–1 valve, and a
foot brake application is released, the exhaust port of QR-1C Valve
the quick release valve opens and the air from the
The QR–1C quick release valve (Fig. 2) is a dual
front brake chambers is exhausted through the quick
function valve. Its primary function is to speed up the
release valve. This accelerates the release of the
release of air pressure from the service brake cham-
front brakes.
bers. Additionally, the valve works as an anti-
compound device. The double check valve feature
1 prevents a service and parking brake application
from occurring at the same time.
The QR–1C valve is generally mounted on the axle
and serves two spring brake actuators. A balance
line from the relay valve delivery port is connected to
the balance port on top of the QR–1C quick release
valve. The two side ports are for brake chamber con-
nections. The supply port is connected to the delivery
2 port of the parking brake control valve, and the ex-
haust port is located at the bottom of the valve. The
2 air connections to the QR–1C are as follows:
3
1. The QR–1C delivery port is connected to the
emergency port of the spring brake.
5
2. The QR–1C balance port is connected to the de-
livery of the relay valve.
NOTE: The QR–1C valve should be connected
4 6 to the delivery side (not to the service or signal
side) of the relay valve.
3. The QR–1C supply port is connected to the de-
livery of the park control valve.
Principles of Operation
7 QR-1 Valve
07/28/94 f420049a
1. Supply Port
When the foot brake control is applied, delivery air
2. Delivery Port enters the brake valve port on the QR–1 quick re-
3. Exhaust Port lease valve; the diaphragm moves down, sealing the
4. Diaphragm exhaust port. At the same time, air pressure forces
5. Cover the edges of the diaphragm down, allowing air to
6. O-Ring flow out the brake chamber ports, filling the cham-
7. Body bers and applying the front axle brakes.
Fig. 1, QR-1 Valve and Cross Section When the brake chamber air pressure (beneath the
diaphragm) equals the air pressure being delivered
2 QR-1C Valve
Parking Brakes Released
When the parking brakes are released, air from the
parking brake control valve flows through the QR–1C
1 valve. This forces the double check diaphragm and
the quick release diaphragm to flex and seal the bal-
ance and exhaust ports. Air flows into the inlet ports
of the parking brake chambers from the QR–1C
valve delivery ports.
3
Parking Brakes Applied
3 When the parking brakes are applied, supply line air
6 7 2 4 pressure to the QR–1C valve is exhausted through
the parking brake control valve. As air pressure is
5 exhausted from one side of the double check dia-
phragm and the quick release diaphragm, both dia-
8 phragms flex in the opposite direction to open the
1 balance and exhaust ports. Parking brake pressure is
released at the exhaust port of the QR–1C valve
while a small amount of air trapped between the two
diaphragms is released through a relay valve or the
foot valve exhaust port.
Anti-Compounding
3 9 When a service brake application is made with the
parking brakes applied, service air enters the bal-
ance port and flows through the QR–1C valve into
4 the inlet ports of the parking brake chambers. This
09/15/95 10 f421386
prevents application of the service and parking
1. Supply Port brakes at the same time. Service air passing through
2. Balance Port the QR–1C valve flexes the double check and quick
3. Delivery Port
release diaphragms, sealing the supply and exhaust
4. Exhaust
5. Cap Nut ports. When the service brake application is re-
6. Sealing Ring leased, air is exhausted from the balance port allow-
7. Double Check Diaphragm ing the supply port to seal the balance and exhaust
8. Body ports and keep the spring brakes released.
9. Quick Release Diaphragm
10. Cover
Safety Precautions
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the
following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and
chock the tires.
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser-
voirs before beginning any work on the ve-
hicle. Depleting air system pressure may
cause the vehicle to roll. Keep hands away
from brake chamber pushrods and slack ad-
justers, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
• Disconnect the batteries.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pres-
sure has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al-
ways wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble or in-
stall a component until you have read and un-
derstood the service procedures. Some com-
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses all
of the original supports, clamps, or suspending
devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
certain all components and systems are re-
stored to their proper operating condition.
4 1
10/17/2001 f430280
1. Mounting Bracket
2. Mounting Nut and Bolt
3. Delivery Port
4. Supply Port
Installation
1. Install the quick release valve with the exhaust
port facing down. Securely tighten the mounting
bolts.
2. Install the air lines to the quick release valve in
the locations previously marked.
Disassembly 2
1
3
3
6 7 2 4
5
2
8
2 1
3
3 9
4 6
09/15/95 10 4 f421386
1. Supply Port
2. Balance Port
3. Delivery Port
4. Exhaust
5. Cap Nut
7
07/28/94 f420049a 6. Sealing Ring
7. Double Check Diaphragm
1. Supply Port
8. Body
2. Delivery Port
9. Quick Release Diaphragm
3. Exhaust Port
10. Cover
4. Diaphragm
5. Cover Fig. 2, QR-1C Valve and Cross-Section
6. O-Ring
7. Body 3. Remove the cap nut at the supply port. Remove
Fig. 1, QR-1 Valve and Cross Section the sealing ring from the cap nut.
4. Remove the double check diaphragm.
1. Remove the quick release valve from the vehicle
following the instructions in Subject 120. 5. Remove the four screws holding the valve cover
on the valve body.
2. Mark the valve body and cover for ease of instal-
lation. 6. Separate the cover from the body and remove
the sealing ring and the quick release dia-
phragm.
Assembly
1. Install the sealing ring on the cap nut.
2. Install the double check diaphragm in the valve
body.
3. Install the cap nut. Tighten the nut 13 to 33 lbf·ft
(142 to 376 N·m).
4. Install the quick release diaphragm in the cover.
5. Install the valve cover on the body. Tighten the
screws 30 to 60 lbf·in (340 to 680 N·cm) evenly
and securely.
6. Install the quick release valve, following the in-
structions in Subject 120.
7. Do the operating and leakage test as instructed
in Subject 110.
5
4 6
3
7
1
10
11 A
14 13 12
05/22/2001 f430241
A. Brake Pads
1. Slipper 8. Caliper
2. Antilock Brakes Sensor Bracket 9. Caliper Boot Seal
3. Guide Pin Boot 10. Piston Boot
4. Guide Pin 11. Caliper Piston
5. Guide Pin Bolt 12. Splash Shield
6. Bleed Screw 13. Plug (66mm only)
7. Brake Line 14. Tie Bar (73mm only)
05/24/2001
1 f430246
A. 73mm slider disc brakes incorporate a tie bar between the anchor plate abutment arms.
1. Caliper Assembly
2. Brake Pads
3. Anchor Plate Assembly
3
3
4
2 5 2
5
4
6 6
1 1
A B
06/05/2001 f430247
A. Front (66mm shown) B. Rear (73mm shown)
1. Hydraulic Pistons with Seals and Boots 4. Upper Slipper
2. Sealed Pins 5. Brake Pads
3. Anchor Plate 6. Lower Slipper
2 3
5
6
2
3
4
1
4
1
5 3
A B
05/29/2001 f430248
A. Front B. Rear
1. Pad Abutment 4. Antilock Braking System Sensor Mounting
2. Anchor Plate 5. Splash Shield
3. Floating Guide Pin 6. Tie Bar (73mm brakes only)
General Safety Precautions Special care must be taken when disposing of used
brake fluid. Put the fluid in a sealed plastic container
and label it "Used Brake Fluid." Then dispose of it in
WARNING an approved manner. Check with local and state
regulations as to the correct disposal procedure.
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
drums, always replace components as an axle IMPORTANT: During service procedures, keep
set. grease and other foreign material away from
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at caliper assemblies, disc brake pads, brake ro-
the same time. tors and external surfaces of the hub. Handle
parts carefully to avoid damage to the caliper,
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at
rotor, disc brake pads or brake lines.
the same time.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single
Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, Safety
at the same time. Do not mix component
types.
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
WARNING
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam- Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
age, personal injury, or death. brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the and continuing through assembly. Breathing
following precautions: brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
chock the tires. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
• Disconnect the batteries. Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings, should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length, the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
and strength of the original equipment. asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that lung disease) and cancer.
all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
pending devices are installed or replaced. Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
• Replace devices that have stripped threads or health hazard, the following precautions should also
damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
should not be attempted.
Areas where brake work is done should be separate
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make from other operations, if possible. As required by
certain all components and systems are re- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
stored to their proper operating condition. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
WARNING high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
Hydraulic brake fluid is hazardous, and can and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
cause blindness if it gets in your eyes. Always worn during all procedures.
wear safety glasses when handling brake fluid or OSHA recommends that enclosed cylinders equipped
bleeding brake components. Brake fluid may also with vacuums and high-efficiency (HEPA) filters be
be a skin irritant. If you get it on your skin, wash used during brake repairs. Under this system, the
it off as soon as possible. entire brake assembly is placed within the cylinder
and the mechanic works on the brake through
WARNING A
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions 100. Failure to
do so could result in serious and permanent
health damage.
IMPORTANT: It is recommended that all disc B
brake pads on the vehicle be replaced at the
same time. This will maintain balanced braking.
If complete replacement is not desirable or nec-
essary, make sure that at a minimum all disc
brake pads on one axle (both ends) are re-
placed at the same time.
Removal
06/04/2001 f430265
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down A. Remove this screw and clip on front axles only.
the engine and apply the parking brake. B. Move the caliper outboard to push the pistons in.
2. Open the hood. Fig. 1, Piston Retraction and Brake Line Clip Removal
3. If removing rear axle wheel pads, remove about
half of the fluid from the rear section of the mas- IMPORTANT: When servicing disc brake pads
ter cylinder reservoir. If removing front axle wheel only, loosen and remove the upper (top) caliper
pads, remove about half of the fluid from the pin mounting bolt. Do not loosen the lower (bot-
front section. Removing the fluid from the reser- tom) pin mounting bolt.
voir keeps the reservoir from overflowing when 9. Remove only the upper (top) pin mounting bolt.
retracting pistons into the caliper. See Fig. 2.
4. Chock the front or rear tires, depending on which
axle is being worked on. Jack up the axle and CAUTION
support it with jackstands.
Do not pull on the guide pins. This may dislodge
5. Remove the tires.
the guide pin boot from the guide pin or anchor
6. Visually inspect all brake pad linings. Lining pads plate grooves, which could damage the guide pin
should be replaced when the remaining lining boot.
reaches 3/16-inch (5-mm) thickness or less.
10. Swing the caliper assembly away from the rotor
by carefully rotating the caliper on the lower pin
CAUTION mounting bolt and guide pin. See Fig. 3. Do not
allow the brake line hose to become pinched or
Care must be taken when positioning the pry bar. kinked.
Incorrect positioning of the pry bar could result
in damage to the caliper. 11. Remove the inboard and outboard disc brake
pads from the anchor plate pad abutment slip-
7. Insert a pry bar in one of the rotor cooling fin pers.
slots and pry the caliper outboard, pushing the
caliper pistons into the piston bores. See Fig. 1. IMPORTANT: Do not mark on the pad face.
8. On front axles only, remove the brake line retain- 12. If the original disc brake pads are to be reused,
ing clip from its support mounting. This will allow be sure to mark them in some manner so that
the brake line hose to hang free. See Fig. 1. they are installed in the same location.
A Installation
1. Position a metal plate across both caliper pis-
tons. Use a C-clamp to push both pistons into
the caliper to provide clearance for the new disc
brake pads. See Fig. 5.
B
CAUTION
When replacing disc brake pads, make sure to
use the same lining material on both axle ends.
Mixing lining types can result in unbalanced
braking, increased pad wear, or degraded stop-
ping performance.
E
D
05/24/2001 f430244
A. Make sure this clip is detached from the support C. Do not loosen the lower pin mounting bolt.
bracket. D. Swing the caliper down until it stops.
B. Guide pin bolt has been removed. E. Caliper in the lowered position.
Fig. 3, Open Caliper to Access Brake Pads and Pistons
4. Hold the caliper in the closed position with the system. Repair any leaks, if needed, then bleed
caliper upper guide pin boss hole aligned with the system, following the instructions in Sub-
the threaded hole in the upper guide pin head. ject 160.
Hand thread the pin mounting bolt. Tighten the
bolt 93 to 107 lbf·ft (126 to 145 N·m). See Fig. 8. WARNING
5. On front axles only, install the previously re-
moved brake line retaining clip. Make sure the Do not move the vehicle until the brake pedal
brake line hose is not pinched or kinked. feels firm. To do otherwise could result in loss of
vehicle control, causing an accident resulting in
6. Visually inspect all components serviced. Make personal injury or property damage.
sure the mounting pins are torqued according to
the specifications in this procedure. Make sure 10. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
the pads are seated and positioned to slide tires.
along the pad abutment slippers. 11. Road test the vehicle and seat the brake pads.
7. Install the tires, remove the jackstands and lower 11.1 Accelerate the vehicle to 30 mph (48 km/
the vehicle. h), then brake to a stop, using medium
8. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reser- brake pedal pressure. Do not slam on the
voir and add the necessary amount of new DOT brakes.
3 approved brake fluid. 11.2 Repeat this step between 4 and 5 times,
9. Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. If it does allowing a 1-minute interval between
not get firm, check for leaks or air in the brake brake applications.
A B
C D
07/30/96 f420383a
A. Cracking D. Scoring
B. Heat Checking E. Normal Finish
C. Discoloration
05/24/2001 f430245
1
1
A B
06/01/2001 f430264
A. Driver Side Rear B. Driver Side Front and Forward-Mount Rear Brakes
1. Wheel Rotation 2. Rotor Face 3. Pad Notch
05/24/2001 f430243
A. Swing the caliper up into position.
1. Flat on Guide Pin
2. Flat on Caliper
Fig. 7, Close Caliper Over Brake Pads and Rotor
2
1
1
2
B
06/04/2001 A f430266
A. Front Brakes and Forward-Mount Rear Brakes B. Rear brakes
1. Tighten First 2. Tighten Second
A
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions 100. Failure to
do so could result in serious and permanent
health damage.
B
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brake. Shut down the engine.
2. Open the hood.
3. If removing the rear wheel caliper(s), remove half
the fluid from the rear section of the master cylin-
der reservoir. If removing the front wheel cali-
per(s), remove half the fluid from the front sec- C
tion. Removing the fluid from the reservoir keeps 05/23/2001 f430242
the reservoir from overflowing when retracting A. Make sure this clip is detached from the support
pistons into the caliper. bracket.
B. Remove the upper guide pin mounting bolt.
4. Chock the front or rear tires, depending on which C. Do not loosen the lower guide pin mounting bolt.
axle is being worked on. Jack up the axle and
support it with jackstands. Fig. 1, Upper Pin Mounting Bolt Removal
5. Remove the tires.
Installation
6. On front axles only, remove the brake line retain-
ing clip from its support mounting. This will allow NOTE: Use isopropyl alcohol to clean brake
the brake line hose to hang free. See Fig. 1. seals, boots, and pistons. Do not soak compo-
7. Remove the upper (top) guide pin mounting bolt. nents for an extended period of time.
See Fig. 1.
1. Clean contamination, dirt, and debris from the
exterior of the caliper, machined faces, and
CAUTION around the caliper piston boots.
Do not pull on the guide pins. This may dislodge 2. Visually inspect the caliper for brake fluid leak-
the guide pin boot from the guide pin or anchor age or damage to pistons or piston boots. If
plate grooves, which could damage the guide pin there is leakage or damage, the caliper should
boot. be repaired or replaced. For repair instructions,
8. Swing the caliper assembly away from the rotor see Subject 130.
by carefully rotating the caliper on the lower pin 3. Make sure the pistons are fully retracted into the
mounting bolt and guide pin. See Fig. 2. Do not caliper. Piston boots must be fully seated in the
allow the brake line hose to become pinched or piston boot groove and the boot grooves in the
kinked. caliper face.
9. Disconnect the brake fluid line from the caliper. 4. Position the caliper on the anchor plate with the
See Fig. 3. caliper lower guide pin boss hole aligned with the
10. Remove the lower guide pin mounting bolt and threaded hole in the lower guide pin head. Hand-
remove the caliper from the anchor plate. thread the pin mounting bolt through the caliper
and into the anchor plate.
E
D
05/24/2001 f430244
A. Make sure this clip is detached from the support C. Lower Guide Pin Bolt
bracket. D. Swing the caliper down until it stops.
B. Guide pin bolt has been removed. E. Caliper in the lowered position.
2
4
3
5
1
05/29/2001 f430249
1. Brake Line 4. Pistons
2. Lower Guide Pin Bolt 5. Piston Boots
3. Machined Face
11. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reser- 14.1 Accelerate the vehicle to 30 mph (48 km/
voir and add the necessary amount of new DOT h), then brake to a stop, using medium
3 approved brake fluid. brake pedal pressure. Do not slam on the
brakes.
12. Close and latch the hood.
14.2 Repeat this step 4 or 5 times, allowing a
13. Remove the chocks from the tires. 1-minute interval between brake applica-
tions.
WARNING
Do not move the vehicle until the brake pedal
feels firm. To do otherwise could result in loss of
vehicle control, causing an accident resulting in
personal injury or property damage.
14. Seat the brake pads by pressing firmly on the
brake pedal several times.
If new brake pads were installed, road test the
vehicle to seat the brake pads.
05/24/2001 f430243
A. Swing the caliper up into position.
1. Flat on Guide Pin
2. Flat on Caliper
Fig. 4, Rotating the Caliper Over the Brake Pads and Rotor
1 2 2 1
A A
A
1 2
2 1 01/06/2006 f422432
01/06/2006 f422431
A. Direction of Rotation (forward motion) A. Direction of Rotation (forward motion)
1. Tighten First 2. Tighten Second 1. Tighten First 2. Tighten Second
Fig. 5, Tightening Sequence for Caliper Mounting Fig. 6, Tightening Sequence for Caliper Mounting
Bolts, Left Side Bolts, Right Side
A A
10/28/94 f420477a
f420547
A B
C D
07/30/96 f420383a
A. Cracking D. Scoring
B. Heat Checking E. Normal Finish
C. Discoloration
10/28/94 f420485a
1. Rotor
2. Wheel Hub
1
10 8
3 6
5 4
7 9
2
f420500
Runout Check A
Brake rotor runout refers to the amount of lateral
wobble the rotor has when it is turning, with the
wheel bearings correctly adjusted. See Fig. 1. Check 1
the rotor runout whenever you replace the brake
pads.
1. If not already done, chock the tires, jack up the
axle you are working on and support it with jack-
stands. Remove the wheels and tires.
2. If working on the rear axle, put the transmission
in neutral. 2
Parallelism Check
Parallelism is the difference in rotor thickness at dif-
ferent points around the rotor. It should be checked f420476
whenever the brake pads are replaced.
Fig. 2, Measure Runout
1. Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of
the rotor (between the inboard and outboard
faces) at four or more equally spaced points
around the rotor. See Fig. 3.
2. If there is a difference of more than 0.005 inch
(0.13 mm) between any two measurements,
have the rotor resurfaced. If resurfacing will de-
crease the overall thickness of the rotor to 1.32
inches (33.5 mm) or less, replace the rotor.
1
A
A A
10/28/94 f420437a
A. Measure thickness here.
1. Rotor Face
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions 100. Failure to 1
do so could result in serious and permanent
health damage.
2
Disassembly
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Chock the 1
rear or front tires, as required.
3 2
2. Jack up the vehicle. Support the axle with jack-
stands.
3. Remove the tire.
4. Remove the brake caliper from the anchor plate 4 1
following the instructions in Subject 120.
10/28/94 f420554a
5. Remove the tie bar from the anchor plate on 1. Dust Shield Screw 3. Mounting Hexbolts
73mm brakes, or remove the plugs from the an- 2. Anchor Plate 4. Dust Shield
chor plate on 66mm brakes.
6. Remove the brake pads from the anchor plate. Fig. 1, Axle End (typical)
For instructions, see Subject 110.
7. Remove the wheel hub and rotor assembly from 2
the axle, following the instructions in Group 33
for the front axle or Group 35 for the rear axle.
8. Remove the anchor plate from the axle. 3
1
8.1 Remove the three screws holding the dust
shield to the anchor plate and remove the
dust shield.
8.2 Remove the hexbolts, washers and nuts
that hold the anchor plate to the axle. See
Fig. 1. 1
8.3 Remove the anchor plate from the axle.
9. Remove contamination, dirt and debris from the
exterior of the anchor plate.
3
05/31/2001 f430260
10. Remove the brake pad abutment slipper using a
blunt nose drift pin or screwdriver and a light 1. Pad Abutment Slipper
hammer. Avoid marring the anchor plate abut- 2. Guide Pin and Pin Boot
ment surfaces. See Fig. 2. 3. Plugs (66mm brakes only)
11. Remove the guide pins and guide pin boots by Fig. 2, Anchor Plate Components
pulling out the guide pin with a slight twisting mo-
tion. Clean and Inspection
12. Remove the splash shield and antilock braking
system sensor bracket from the anchor plate. 1. Clean the anchor plate with a brush and solvent.
See Fig. 3. Make sure the anchor plate abutments, anchor
plate tie bar mounting surfaces, axle flange
1
2
2
A B C
05/31/2001 1 f430259
A. Driver Side Front Backing Plate Assembly (66mm brakes)
B. Driver Side Front Backing Plate Assembly (73mm brakes)
C. Driver Side Rear Backing Plate Assembly (typical)
1. Sensor Bracket 2. Anchor Plate
2
8. Install the splash shield and antilock braking sys-
1 4 tem sensor bracket to the anchor plate.
When installing the splash shield and sensor
bracket on the anchor plate for 66mm front and
3 all rear brakes, the splash shield and sensor
bracket are mounted on the inboard side of the
05/30/2001 f430256 anchor plate and the five bolts are installed from
1. Guide Pin Boot 3. Guide Pin the inboard side. Tighten the bolts 12 to 16 lbf·ft
2. Pad Abutment 4. Boot Groove (17 to 21 N·m).
Slipper
For 73mm front brakes, the splash shield and
sensor bracket are mounted on the outboard
Fig. 5, Loose Anchor Plate Components
side of the anchor plate and the five bolts are
5. Inspect the pad abutment slippers for damage or installed from the outboard side. Tighten the
wear and clean them with solvent. Replace them bolts 12 to 16 lbf·ft (17 to 21 N·m).
if damaged or excessive wear is detected. 9. Remove all traces of dirt, grease and oil from the
6. Visually inspect the anchor plate for worn or knuckle and axle brake flange.
damaged slippers, and damaged or dislodged 10. Install the anchor plate on the axle.
guide pin boots. If signs of wear or damage are
found, the anchor plate should be repaired or 10.1 Position the anchor plate against the out-
replaced. board side of the axle flange, making sure
the holes in both are lined up.
Assembly 10.2 From the outboard side of the anchor
plate, install the hexbolts and washers.
NOTE: All brake parts must be clean and com- Install the nuts and remaining washers.
pletely dry of cleaning fluids before assembly. See Fig. 1. Using a star pattern, tighten
the hexnuts as follows:
1. Uniformly apply Aeroshell Grade 5 grease to the
entire guide pin bore and on the guide pin shaft. • Rear Axle; 97 to 123 lbf·ft (132 to
Use 1/8 ounce (3 grams) of grease to thoroughly 167 N·m)
lube each guide pin and guide pin bore set. See • Front Axle Type FC; 70 to 89 lbf·ft
Fig. 6. (95 to 121 N·m)
2. Apply a thin coat of Aeroshell Grade 5 grease to • Front Axle Type FD/FF; 134 to 172
the inside opening at each end of the boot. lbf·ft (182 to 233 N·m)
3. Slide the guide pin into the guide pin boot. 11. Install the dust shield on the anchor plate. See
4. Insert the guide pin with the boot into the anchor Fig. 1.
plate guide pin bore until the boot is completely 12. Install the wheel hub and rotor assembly onto
compressed. the axle, following the instructions in Group 33
5. Rotate the guide pin 1/4 to 1/2 turn back and for the front axle or Group 35 for the rear axle.
forth in order to seat the guide pin boot. 13. On 66mm brakes, install the four bolt plugs into
6. Inspect the guide pin boot to make sure the boot the anchor plate face. Tighten 16 to 27 lbf·ft (22
is fully seated all around the guide pin and the to 37 N·m). See Fig. 8.
anchor plate retaining grooves. On 73mm brakes, install the anchor plate tie bar
7. Install an anchor plate pad abutment slipper onto and the four tie bar bolts to the anchor plate
each anchor plate abutment. See Fig. 7. Use a face. Tighten 40 to 50 lbf·ft (54 to 68 N·m).
soft brass or other light hammer to be sure the 14. Install the brake caliper on the anchor plate fol-
slipper is seated on the abutment. Avoid marring lowing the instructions in Subject 120.
anchor plate abutment slipper surfaces.
C D
A
06/01/2001 f430261
A. Lube the inside of the boot, both ends. C. Boot and pin in place.
B. Apply Aeroshell Grade 5 grease to the bore and the D. Twist to seat in the groove.
pin.
05/30/2001 f430254
1 2
Fig. 7, Pad Abutment Slipper 06/05/2001 f430257
1. Tie Bar (73mm brakes only)
15. Install the brake pads into the anchor plate. For 2. Plug (66mm brakes only)
instructions, see Subject 110.
16. Install the tire. Fig. 8, Plugs and Tie Bar
17. Remove the jackstands. Lower the vehicle.
18. Remove the chocks.
Bleeding
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions 100. Failure to
do so could result in serious and permanent
health damage.
CAUTION
Power steering fluid and brake fluid are incom-
patible. Never mix these two fluids or serious
damage to both hydraulic systems will result.
Use only brake fluid for the master cylinder and 08/02/93 f420379
Manual Bleeding
NOTE: If you do not have pressure bleeding
equipment, you can use the manual bleeding
procedure.
WARNING
Read over the information in Subject 100 before
starting the procedure below. Failure to do so
may result in either serious injury to yourself, or
damage to the brake system, resulting in an acci-
dent causing serious personal injury or property
damage.
IMPORTANT: Do not let the brake master cylin-
der run dry during manual bleeding operations.
Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with
new, DOT 3 approved brake fluid. Failure to
keep the brake reservoir filled could result in
08/02/93 f420377 more air entering the system, making it impos-
sible to effectively bleed the system.
Fig. 2, Bleed the Hydraulic Connection
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
6. Bleed the front wheel brake calipers starting at parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
the right side. rear tires.
6.1 Put a wrench on the bleeder fitting at the 2. Open the hood.
caliper. Attach a length of clear tubing to
the bleeder fitting. Make sure the tube fits 3. Bleed the master cylinder.
snugly. Submerge the tubing in a con-
3.1 Using a wrench (and a rag to absorb
tainer of clean brake fluid. See Fig. 2.
leaking brake fluid), loosen the fitting at
6.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting about 3/4 turn the rear outlet port on the master cylinder.
and let the brake fluid flow out of the fit- See Fig. 3. Loosen the fitting about one
ting until it is free of air bubbles. Tighten turn.
the fitting firmly.
3.2 Have someone push the brake pedal
6.3 Move to the left front wheel caliper and down slowly by hand to the floor. Brake
repeat steps for bleeding the caliper. fluid, and any air in the master cylinder,
will squirt from the fitting.
7. Check the brake fluid level in both compartments
of the reservoir. Add new DOT 3 approved brake 3.3 With the brake pedal held down, tighten
fluid if needed. the rear hydraulic line fitting firmly.
8. Check the operation of the brakes by depressing IMPORTANT: Do not release the brake
the brake pedal several times, until if feels firm. pedal until the fitting is tightened, or more air
The brake pedal should not go all the way down will get into the system.
08/02/93 f420374
Troubleshooting Tables
IMPORTANT: See Section 42.15 for detailed
hydraulic brake system troubleshooting proce-
dures.
Problem—Noise and Chatter
Problem—Noise and Chatter
Possible Cause Remedy
Bent, damaged, or incorrect pads Replace with the correct pads in axle sets.
Worn out lining plates (plates rubbing
Resurface or replace the rotor. Replace the pads in axle set.
rotor)
Rotor polished or linings glazed Remove the polish or glaze.
Foreign material embedded in linings Replace the pads in axle sets.
Excessive rotor thickness variations or Resurface or replace the rotor.
lateral runout
Problem—Brakes Grab
Problem—Brakes Grab
Possible Cause Remedy
Incorrect pads or pads loose on plate Replace with the correct pads in axle sets.
Grease or brake fluid on linings Repair the grease seal or caliper. Replace the pads in axle sets.
Loose caliper at anchor plate pins Tighten to specifications.
Excessive rotor lateral runout Check the bearing adjustment. Resurface or replace the rotor.
Problem—Low Pedal
Problem—Low Pedal
Possible Cause Remedy
Leak in hydraulic brake system Check the master cylinder, calipers, hoses and tubes. Replace as necessary.
Air in hydraulic brake system Bleed the system. For instructions, see Subject 160.
Poor quality brake fluid (low boiling point) Drain the system. Flush and refill with approved brake fluid.
Weak brake hoses that expand under Replace the defective hoses.
pressure
Pad and piston knockback caused by Adjust or tighten parts or replace faulty parts as necessary.
loose wheel bearings
Kent-Moore Tools
Kent-Moore Part Number Tool
ZTSE4417 Seating Tool for 66 mm Caliper Pistons
ZTSE4418 Seating Tool for 73 mm Caliper Pistons
Table 1, Kent-Moore Tools
Fastener Torques
Fastener Description Size Grade Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Caliper Pin Mounting Bolts M12 x 1.25 — 93 to 107 (126–145)
Brake Supply Hose Fitting — — 15 (20)
Tie Bar-to-Anchor Plate Mounting Bolt (73 mm only) M10 x 1.5 — 40–50 (54–68)
Tie Bar-to-Anchor Plate Hole Plug (66 mm only) M10 x 1.5 — 16–27 (22–37)
Dust Shield, ABS Sensor Mounting Bracket and
5/16–18 — 12–16 (17–22)
Brake Line Clip Screw
Rear Axle: 97–123 (132–167)
Anchor Plate Mounting Hexnuts — — Front Axle Type FC: 70–89 (95–121)
Front Axle Type FD/FF: 134–172 (182–233)
Caliper Bleed Screw 7/16–24 — 8–15 (10–20)
Rotor Mounting Hexbolts 9/16–12 8 130 (175)
Table 2, Fastener Torques
DANGER 1
1 9
5
A
6
8
7
08/30/94 f420730c
Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. End Cover Cap
2. Factory Sealed Parking Brake Clamp Ring
3. Release Bolt Storage Pocket
4. Service Brake Clamp Ring
5. Hardened Flatwasher
6. Prevailing Torque Locknut
7. Clevis Assembly
8. Piston Rod
9. Air Inlet Ports
02/22/2000 f421352
10. External Breather Tube
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber Fig. 2, Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
Service Brakes
As the brake pedal is depressed, compressed air
enters the service brake chamber through a port. Air
pressure acts upon a diaphragm, which forces the
piston rod toward the non-pressure chamber, apply-
ing a straight-line force to the slack adjuster, which
converts it to a rotational force. This, in turn, rotates
the camshaft and applies the brakes.
When the brake pedal is released, air is exhausted
from the service brake chamber, and the return
spring allows the diaphragm, piston rod, and slack
adjuster to return to their normal positions, releasing
the brakes.
Parking/Emergency Brakes
During parking brake release, compressed air enters
the parking brake chamber and acts upon the dia-
phragm and piston, fully compressing the power
spring. When the power spring is compressed, the
parking brakes are released; the service brakes can
then be operated at the brake pedal.
During parking brake application, air is exhausted
from the parking brake chamber. The power spring
releases, forcing the piston and parking brake dia-
phragm toward the flange case. The resulting motion
on the pushrod forces the service brake diaphragm
and piston rod outward, applying the brakes.
DANGER
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring for any purpose at any time. See
Fig. 1. The parking/emergency brake section is
not intended to be serviced. Serious injury or
death may result from the sudden release of the
power spring.
A 05/21/93 f420420a
02/22/2000 f421352
Remove the chamber carefully from its bracket,
and disarm it inside a suitable container. For dis-
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring. arming procedures, consult the MGM service
1. Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber manual.
3. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
power spring).
Manual Compression (Parking 3.1 Using a hand wrench ( do not use an im-
pact wrench), unscrew the release nut,
Brake Release) and remove the nut, flatwasher, and re-
lease bolt from the storage pocket on the
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the side of the chamber. See Fig. 3.
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
the tires. IMPORTANT: If these parts are not stored
2. Remove the end cover cap from the center hole
on the chamber, they must be otherwise ob-
in the head of the chamber. See Fig. 2. tained or purchased; the parking brake can-
not be manually released without them.
DANGER 3.2 Apply at least 90 psi (620 kPa) air pres-
sure to the parking brake inlet port (set
Do not attempt to cage the power spring if the the parking brake in the "release" posi-
parking brake chamber is damaged severely tion).
enough to lose its structural integrity. If the
3.3 Insert the release bolt into the center hole
in the chamber head. See Fig. 4. Insert
the bolt until it bottoms out into the hole in 3.5 Holding the bolt locked into the piston,
the piston inside the chamber. install the flatwasher and release nut on
the end of the release bolt, and turn down
the nut against the flatwasher until it is
finger-tight. See Fig. 5.
05/24/95 f421353
CAUTION
Do not exceed 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) torque on the
release nut; and do not use an impact wrench on
this nut. Too much torque could distort the head
of the chamber and prevent manual release of
the parking brake.
3.6 Using a hand wrench ( do not use an im-
pact wrench), turn the release nut clock-
wise until the bolt extends 3 inches (76
05/21/93 f420422a mm) above the nut. See Fig. 6.
Fig. 4, Insert the Release Bolt IMPORTANT: Do not exceed the 3-inch (76-
mm) length.
IMPORTANT: If you are not absolutely sure
4. Once the power spring has been caged, exhaust
that the formed end of the bolt has engaged
the compressed air from the parking brake.
the piston correctly, repeat this step. Repeat
it until you are absolutely sure.
Manual Reset (Parking Brake
3.4 Turn the release bolt one-quarter turn
clockwise, and pull the bolt out to lock its Reset)
formed end into the piston.
1. Uncage the power spring.
IMPORTANT: If the bolt does not lock into
the piston in less than a 1/2 inch (13 mm) 1.1 Apply at least 90 psi (620 kPa) air pres-
outward movement, repeat these steps until sure to the parking brake inlet port (set
parking brake in the "release" position).
you are sure it does lock.
CAUTION
Do not exceed 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) torque on the
release nut; and do not use an impact wrench on
this nut. Too much torque could distort the head
of the chamber and prevent manual release of
the parking brake.
1.2 With air applied to the parking brake sec-
tion (the parking brake control valve is in
the "release" position), use a hand wrench 07/29/93 f420428a
to turn the release nut counterclockwise
until the bolt bottoms out in the unit. Fig. 8, Snap the End Cover Cap in Place
DANGER 1
2
1
A 08/09/2000 f422160
A. Prevailing Torque Locknut
1. Locking-Jaw Pliers
2. Piston Rod
WARNING
Before caging (compressing) the power spring,
chock the vehicle tires and read the warnings
and instructions in Subject 100. When the power
spring is caged, the vehicle may be without
brakes, allowing it to roll out of control, possibly
02/22/2000 f421352
resulting in personal injury or property damage.
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber 2. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
power spring). For instructions, see Subject 100.
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
3. Mark the air lines for later reference. Carefully
disconnect them from the brake chamber.
Removal
On chambers equipped with an external breather
1. To make removal and installation of the parking tube, disconnect the tube and elbow from the
brake section easier (without removing the ser- service brake chamber.
vice brake chamber), lock off the service cham-
4. Remove the parking brake section from the ser-
ber piston rod.
vice brake section.
1.1 Apply the service brakes by actuating the
driver’s foot brake treadle valve. 4.1 Using a hand wrench ( do not use an im-
pact wrench), remove the clamp nuts on
1.2 With the brakes applied, clamp a pair of the service clamp ring ( do not disas-
locking-jaw pliers on the piston rod to lock semble the parking brake section).
the rod in place when the air pressure is
released. See Fig. 2. 4.2 While holding the parking brake section
securely in place, remove the service
clamp ring. Remove the parking brake
section from the service brake non-
pressure chamber. See Fig. 3.
4
3
05/24/95 f421357
Replacement
DANGER
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring for any purpose at any time. See
Fig. 1. The parking/emergency brake section is
not intended to be serviced. Serious injury or
death may result from the sudden release of the
power spring.
02/22/2000 f421352
DANGER 1
1 9
5
A
6
8
7
08/30/94 f420730c
Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. End Cover Cap
2. Factory Sealed Parking Brake Clamp Ring
3. Release Bolt Storage Pocket
4. Service Brake Clamp Ring
5. Hardened Flatwasher
6. Prevailing Torque Locknut
7. Clevis Assembly
8. Piston Rod
9. Air Inlet Ports
02/22/2000 f421352
10. External Breather Tube
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber Fig. 2, Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
WARNING
Tighten the mounting nuts with a hand wrench,
not an impact wrench. An impact wrench could
05/12/93 f420425a
damage the mounting fasteners, reducing the
force of the brakes. This could result in personal
Fig. 3, Measure X and Y injury or property damage.
3. Install one hardened flatwasher and prevailing
Installation torque locknut on each mounting stud. Using a
hand wrench (do not use an impact wrench),
1. If installing a new brake chamber unit (Fig. 2), tighten the nuts 100 to 115 lbf·ft (136 to 156
perform the following steps: N·m). Make sure the flatwasher is installed be-
1.1 Make sure the power spring is caged (re- tween the locknut and the mounting bracket.
lease bolt fully extended outward). If not,
On chambers equipped with an external breather bubbles or leaks appear, tighten the fittings
tube, make sure that the tube is installed in the slightly, but not over 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
side of the chamber that faces away from the
road surface. An improperly installed breather
IMPORTANT: If the service brake clamp ring
tube voids the MGM warranty. was loosened to reposition the air inlet ports,
apply air to the parking brake, and then apply
4. Check mating and alignment with the vehicle air and hold the foot brake treadle valve down to
lines. charge the service brake chamber. Now test for
4.1 Using a hand wrench (do not use an im- air leaks around the circumference of the ser-
pact wrench), loosen the clamp nuts on vice brake clamp ring. If bubbles or leaks ap-
the service clamp ring (do not disas- pear, firmly tap the circumference of the clamp
semble the parking brake section). ring with a rubber mallet, and retighten the
4.2 Reposition the air inlet ports, as needed, clamp nuts until leaks cease ( do not touch the
to mate with vehicle air supply lines. parking brake section). MGM recommends 25 to
30 lbf·ft (34 to 41 N·m) torque on the clamp
Alternately tighten each clamp nut in in-
crements of 60 to 120 lbf·in (680 to 1360
hexnuts.
N·cm) while constantly rechecking the 9. With air pressure now exhausted from the ser-
alignment of mating parts. vice brake chamber, but held on the parking
brake, reset the parking brakes by uncaging the
If realignment is needed, loosen the nuts
power spring and snap the end cover cap in
again and repeat this substep.
place. For instructions, see Subject 100.
4.3 Firmly tap around the circumference of the 10. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. For in-
service clamp ring with a rubber mallet to structions, see the appropriate slack adjuster
ensure full seating of the clamp. Tighten section in this manual.
the nuts to a final torque of 25 to 30 lbf·ft
(34 to 41 N·m). IMPORTANT: After replacing any brake cham-
5. Install the slack adjuster. For instructions, see
ber, check the piston rod stroke and actuating
the appropriate slack adjuster section in this alignment to ensure correct installation and
manual. foundation brake adjustment. No foundation
brake adjustments, parking brake or service
6. Inspect the piston rod to be sure it is working brake, can be made at the chamber and all
free, not binding, and is square with the chamber
bottom within ±3 degrees in any direction from
"stroke" adjustments must be made at the slack
zero to full stroke. If there is misalignment, make adjuster. For instructions, see the appropriate
corrections by loosening the locknuts and reposi- slack adjuster section in this manual.
tioning the chamber on the mounting bracket, or
by shimming the slack adjuster to the right or left
on the camshaft.
7. Make sure the air hose fittings are free of
grease, dirt, and other debris. Apply Loctite® 242
sealant, or an equivalent, to the fittings, and in-
stall, as referenced earlier. Using a hand wrench
(do not use an impact wrench), tighten the fit-
tings 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
8. Using the vehicle system air, charge the parking
brake with full line pressure, at least 100 psi (690
kPa). Using only soapy water (never any type of
oil, which could deteriorate rubber parts), check
for air leaks at the air lines and fittings. If
Torque Values
Description Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Spring Brake Release Bolt Nut (in storage pocket) 10 (14)
Service Brake Clamp Ring Nut 25–30 (34–41)
Brake Chamber Mounting Stud Nut 100–115 (136–156)
Air Hose Fitting-to-Chamber 25 (34)
Table 1, Torque Values
General Description
2
1 E
The Bendix TP–3DC is a tractor protection valve that
includes an integral double check valve. The TP– F
2 1
3DC serves two purposes. First, as required by Fed- G
eral law, the valve protects the tractor brakes in the
D
event of trailer breakaway or a severe air system
C 3
leak. Second, when used with a dash-mounted trailer
B
supply control valve, the TP–3DC valve can be used A
to shut off the trailer control line before the trailer is
disconnected.
1
The TP–3DC also includes an integral single check 4
valve that prevents air from getting trapped in the
trailer control line. Trapped air in this line could
cause service/spring brake compounding and, if the 09/11/95 f421390
trailer is parked with air applied, a trailer roll-away
situation. A. From service brake foot valve, primary circuit
B. From service brake foot valve, secondary circuit
There are several different mounting locations for the C. To air manifold (stop lamp switch)
TP–3DC tractor protection valve. A common mount- D. From trailer supply valve
ing location is in the frame rail channel. See Fig. 1. E. To proportioning relay (if installed)
F. To trailer emergency port
TP–3DC valve port designations and internal compo- G. To trailer service port
nents are shown in Fig. 2. 1. 1/4" Flatwasher
2. 1/4–20 Locknut
3. TP–3DC Tractor Protection Valve
Principles of Operation 4. 1/4–20 Capscrew
Pushing in the red trailer air supply knob on the in- pressure (trailer control or foot valve secondary) to
strument panel causes air to flow into the TP–3DC the TP–3DC Tractor Control secondary port.
valve at the tractor supply port. See Fig. 3. Air flows Inside the TP–3DC valve, the higher pressure (pri-
through the valve housing, exiting via the auxiliary mary or secondary) moves the diaphragm to seal off
supply port (if used) and the trailer supply port, to the port at the lower pressure.
pressurize the trailer brake system and release the
trailer parking brakes. With the plunger bottomed against the guide and the
inlet valve open (as described earlier), the higher
As air pressure builds in the trailer supply circuit, the pressure air flows through the valve to the trailer
single check valve seats, and the valve plunger be- control port and the stop lamp switch, applying the
gins to move (against spring pressure) toward the trailer brakes and activating the tractor stop lamps.
guide. When pressure reaches about 45 psi (310
kPa), the inlet valve opens. NOTE: While air pressure also reaches the TP–
3DC single check valve, the valve stays closed
The TP–3DC valve is in the "run" mode, and ready
to receive and deliver a service brake application because supply pressure is acting on the other
from either the foot valve or the hand valve. side.
2 3
1 4
2
3
1
4 5
14 16 6
13 15
5
6
12
12 13
7 7
8 8
11
11 9
10 10
07/08/97 f421482a
9 1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port
02/22/2000 f421487
Valve (Primary)
1. Tractor Supply Port 10. Tractor Control Port 2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve
2. Auxiliary Supply Port (Primary) 3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve
3. Trailer Supply Port 11. Tractor Control 4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port
4. Check Valve Spring Port(Secondary) 5. Single Check Valve (Secondary)
5. Check Valve 12. Stop Lamp Switch 6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve
6. Trailer Control Port Port 7. Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch
7. Valve Spring 13. Plunger 8. Guide Port
8. Guide 9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger
9. Diaphragm (Double Check Valve)
Check Valve)
Fig. 3, Initial Charge
Fig. 2, TP-3DC, Sectional View
With the inlet valve closed, air pressure from the
The air forces the diaphragm to seat, sealing off the brake foot or hand control valves will not reach the
tractor control primary port. The air then exits the trailer control circuit when the brakes are applied.
valve at the tractor control (secondary) port and flows
to the foot valve or hand valve where it is exhausted. Anti-Compounding
Tractor Protection If the red trailer air supply knob on the instrument
panel is pulled out while the service brakes are ap-
If the red trailer air supply knob on the instrument plied, the single check valve in the TP–3DC prevents
panel is pulled out (or if a large leak develops in the simultaneous spring and service brake application.
trailer supply circuit), pressure in the trailer supply As pressure in the trailer supply circuit drops, the
circuit (and the auxiliary supply circuit, if used) is spring in the TP–3DC valve forces the inlet valve
vented. See Fig. 6. When pressure drops to about closed (as described above in "Tractor Protection."
20 to 30 psi (138 to 207 kPa), the pressure can no Any pressure in the trailer control circuit is relieved
longer overcome the spring force inside the TP–3DC by passing first through the single check valve and
valve and the inlet valve closes. then exhausting at the trailer supply valve. See
Fig. 7.
3 3
1
2 4
1
4
5 2
14 16 6
15 16 5
14
15
7
12 13
8 6
12 13
7
11 9
10
02/22/2000 f421483a 9
1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port 11 10
Valve (Primary) 02/22/2000 f421484a
2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve 1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port
3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve Valve (Primary)
4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port 2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve
5. Single Check Valve (Secondary) 3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve
6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve 4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port
7. Valve Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch 5. Single Check Valve (Secondary)
8. Guide Port 6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve
9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger 7. Valve Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch
Check Valve) 8. Guide Port
9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger
Fig. 4, Service Brake Application Check Valve)
If the service brakes (hand or foot) are released and Fig. 5, Service Brake Release
applied again, the closed inlet valve prevents air
pressure from reaching the trailer control circuit.
3 3
1 1
4 4
2 2
5 5
16
14 6 14 16 6
15 15
7 12 7
12 13 13
8 8
11 11
9
10 9 f421485a 10 f421486a
1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port 1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port
Valve (Primary) Valve (Primary)
2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve 2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve
3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve 3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve
4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port 4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port
5. Single Check Valve (Secondary) 5. Single Check Valve (Secondary)
6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve 6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve
7. Valve Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch 7. Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch
8. Guide Port 8. Guide Port
9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger 9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger
Check Valve) Check Valve)
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under the vehicle. Releasing air from the
system may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters; they will apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if not correctly dis-
assembled. Use only correct tools and observe
all precautions regarding use of those tools.
Leakage Test
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, review
Safety Precautions, 100.
1. Chock the tires, start the engine, and run it until
the air system is fully charged.
2. Shut down the engine and place the trailer air
supply valve in the emergency position (red knob
pulled out).
3. Disconnect the trailer control line hose coupling.
Then make a service application with either the
foot valve or trailer control valve and check for
leakage at the hose coupling with a soap and
water solution. Leakage should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble in 5 seconds.
4. Release the service brake application and place
the trailer supply valve in the "run" position (red
knob pushed in). Connect the trailer control cou-
pling to a test gauge.
5. Make a service brake application and note that
service air pressure is present at the trailer con-
trol line hose coupling.
6. With the ignition on, make and hold a service
brake application and note that the stop lights
function.
7. Disconnect the air line at the TP–3DC tractor
control port (primary) and plug the line. Using a
soap-and-water solution, make a service brake
application and check for leakage at the open
tractor control port. Leakage should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble in 5 seconds.
8. Reconnect the air line to the tractor control port
(primary) and disconnect the air line at the trac-
tor control port (secondary). Then, plug the dis-
connected line. Make and service brake applica-
tion and check for leakage at the open tractor
control port using a soap-and-water solution.
Leakage should not exceed a 1-inch (2.5-cm)
bubble in 5 seconds.
IMPORTANT: If the valve does not function as
described, or if leakage is excessive, repair or
replace the valve.
9. Remove the chocks.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, review
Safety Precautions, 100.
1. Place the TP–3DC valve on the vehicle, and at-
tach it with bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten the
nuts 11 to 15 lbf·ft (15 to 20 N·m).
NOTE: The delivery line from the trailer air sup-
ply valve is connected to the tractor emergency
port of the TP–3DC valve. See Fig. 1. The de-
livery line from the brake valve (double check
valve) is connected to the tractor service port of
the TP–3DC valve. Trailer hose assemblies are
installed in the trailer emergency and trailer ser-
vice ports of the TP–3DC valve.
2. Remove the caps from the air lines, and depend-
ing on the type of air hose, use the following in-
structions to connect the air hoses to the TP–
3DC valve:
If equipped with nylon tube air hoses, push the
air lines into the quick-connect fittings on the
valve.
If equipped with wire braid hoses, connect the
hose fittings to the valve ports, and hand-tighten
the nuts. Using a wrench, tighten the nuts until
there is resistance. Tighten one-sixth turn more.
Do not overtighten.
3. Close the drain cocks to the air reservoirs. Start
the vehicle engine to pressurize the air system.
5
2
1 3
PRIM
02/22/2000 f421391b
1
10
2
11
3 12
5 13
14
9
15
06/10/96 f421479
1. 1/4" Hex/Torx Screw 6. Valve Spring 11. Collar
2. Valve Cover 7. O-Ring 12. O-Ring
3. O-Ring 8. O-Ring 13. O-Ring
4. Diaphragm 9. O-Ring 14. O-Ring
5. Guide 10. Plunger 15. Valve Body
Torque Values
Torque Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m)
Valve Cover Capscrews 30–60 (340–675) —
Valve Mounting Capscrews — 11–15 (15–20)
Table 1, Torque Values
5
2
1 3
PRIM
02/22/2000 f421391b
9 9
1 1
6 2
5
4
4
4
1
1 9
9 8
12/16/2003 f422377
R1. Tractor ABS Lamp Relay (in dash) R3. Back-Up Pump Relay (at hydraulic booster)
R2. Stop Lamp Switch Relay (in dash) R4. ABS Modulator Pump Relay (on ABS modulator)
1. Brake 6. Master Cylinder
2. ABS Warning Light 7. Hydraulic Booster
3. Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 8. ABS Sensor Cable
4. Hydraulic Brake Line 9. Sensor Assembly
5. ABS Modulator Assembly
Business Class M2® vehicles use the "D" version of command center for the antilock braking system. See
this system. The "D" version ECU has a "D" designa- Fig. 3. The control unit receives and processes ve-
tion printed on the part number identification tag. See hicle wheel speed information from the sensors. Dur-
Fig. 2. ing emergency brake applications, the control unit
regulates the braking force applied to each wheel by
ABS includes signal-generating tone wheels and sen-
sors located in the rotor assembly of each sensed
A 115 08/98
00007 446 044 072 0
HyABS−D 4S/4M 12U SAE
e1 21152
04/27/2000 f430157
04/27/2000 f080097
Fig. 4, ABS Modulator Assembly, "D" Version
A. Version Designation
that a wheel is about to lock up, the ECU signals the
Fig. 2, ECU Identification Tag ABS modulator assembly to adjust braking pressure.
When this occurs, drivers may notice a pulsation of
the brake pedal.
The ECU constantly monitors the wheel sensors, the
ABS modulator assembly and the electrical circuitry.
IMPORTANT: After the ignition switch is turned
on, the ABS warning light comes on for about 3
seconds. After about 3 seconds, the light goes
out only if all of the ABS components are work-
ing correctly.
If, during vehicle operation, the ECU senses a failure
in any part of the ABS system (a sensor, ABS modu-
04/27/2000 f430156 lator assembly, short circuit, etc.), the ABS warning
light comes on and the circuit where the failure oc-
Fig. 3, Frame-Mounted Electronic Control Unit, "D" curred is switched to normal braking action. Even if
Version the ABS system is completely inoperative, normal
braking is maintained. See Chapter 6 of the Business
ABS Major Components Class M2® Driver’s Manual for complete operating
instructions.
Wheel Speed Sensor
When the vehicle is moving, the teeth of the tone ABS Modulator Assembly
wheel cause changes in the magnetic field created The ABS modulator assembly is attached to the left
by the sensor. The changes create an AC voltage frame rail just aft of the back-of-cab crossmember.
signal that is generated by the sensor to the elec- Depending on the signal received from the electronic
tronic control unit. control unit, the modulator prevents wheel lockup by
adjusting the hydraulic fluid pressure. During normal
Electronic Control Unit braking applications, hydraulic fluid flows freely to the
The electronic control unit (ECU) contains microcom- brake caliper housing through the modulator.
puters to monitor the front and rear control channels. Within the modulator are an inlet and outlet control
The ECU receives wheel speed signals and inter- valve for each sensed wheel. If the electronic control
prets these signals to calculate wheel speed and a unit signals indicate wheel lockup is close to occur-
vehicle reference speed. If the calculations indicate ring, fluid pressure to the brake caliper of the sensed
Front Axle 10. Press the sensor into the sensor spring clip until
it is stopped by the tone wheel.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock 11. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
the rear tires to prevent vehicle movement.
Rear Axle
2. Twist and pull the sensor to remove it from the
sensor bracket. See Fig. 1. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
the front tires to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Twist and pull the sensor to remove it from the
mounting block in the axle housing.
3. Remove the sensor spring clip.
4. Remove the capscrew that attaches the sensor
cable and the hose clamp to the axle tube.
5. Disconnect the sensor cable from the chassis
harness.
6. Connect the new sensor cable to the chassis
harness.
7. Attach the hose clamp and sensor cable to the
axle tube located between the backing plate and
the spring plate.
8. Press the sensor spring clip into the mounting
block until it stops.
9. Coat the sensor with Mobil HP, Valvoline EP633,
07/28/94 f420034a
Penzoil 707L or an equivalent. Using your hand,
push the sensor into the sensor spring clip until it
Fig. 1, Remove the Wheel Speed Sensor is stopped by the tone wheel.
3. Remove the sensor cable clip from the top cap. 10. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
WARNING CAUTION
Before working on or around hydraulic brake The modulator assembly contains hydraulic
systems and components, see Safety Precau- brake fluid, a caustic substance. Remove the
tions 100. Failure to do so may result in personal brake lines and modulator carefully so that fluid
injury. does not leak and cause skin irritation or damage
to components.
Removal 4. Mark the brake lines for ease of installation. Dis-
connect the lines.
NOTE: Wire repairs may require the use of spe- 5. Remove the mounting capscrews, washers and
cial tools for certain connectors and terminals. nuts that attach the modulator and bracket as-
See Group 54 for information on special termi- sembly to the bracket on the frame rail.
nals and connectors and on ordering tools for
them. 6. Remove the modulator and bracket assembly.
1
2
3
09/10/2002 f430335
1. Driver’s-side Frame Rail
2. Modulator Mounting Bracket
3. ABS Modulator Valve
WARNING
Failure to bleed the hydraulic brake system (in-
cluding power steering system) whenever any
hydraulic system fitting is loosened or discon-
nected will allow air to remain in the system. This
will prevent the hydraulic pressure in the brake
system from rising enough to apply the brakes
properly. This will cause the stopping distance to
increase and can result in serious personal in-
jury.
Properly discard hydraulic brake fluid that is re-
moved from the brake system. Hydraulic brake
fluid that is removed can be contaminated and
can cause damage, loss of braking and serious
personal injury.
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and brake
10/27/94 f420379a
fluid are incompatible. Use only brake fluid for
the master cylinder and brake lines. Use only ATF
Fig. 1, Pressure Bleeder Kit
for the power booster. Never mix these two fluids
or serious damage to both hydraulic systems will 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
result. ATF will damage the rubber parts of the parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
ABS modulator, master cylinder, and brake cali- rear tires.
pers and can cause damage, loss of braking and
serious personal injury. 2. Open the hood.
3. Connect the pressure bleeder to the brake mas-
Always use new, clean brake fluid that meets DOT 3 ter cylinder reservoir following the manufacturer’s
specifications when bleeding the master cylinder and instructions.
service brake system. Never reuse brake fluid, and
don’t use brake fluid containers for any other pur-
pose. Keep brake fluid containers tightly closed to WARNING
keep new brake fluid clean and dry.
Do not exceed 35 psi (241 kPa) at the master cyl-
IMPORTANT: Do not let brake fluid touch any inder inlet. Exceeding this pressure could result
painted surfaces, as it will remove the paint. in personal injury and/or vehicle damage.
Brake fluid may also damage certain non-metal 3.1 Fill the pressure bleeder with new DOT 3
surfaces. Do not let fluid get on brake pads or approved brake fluid. Pressurize it ac-
rotors. cording to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Manual Bleeding
10/27/94 f420377b
If you do not have pressure bleeding equipment, you
Fig. 2, Bleed the Connections at the Rear Wheel can use the manual bleeding procedure.
Calipers IMPORTANT: Do not let the brake master cylin-
4.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting by about a 3/4- der fluid level get too low during manual bleed-
turn and let the brake fluid flow out of the ing operations. Keep the master cylinder reser-
fitting until it is free of air bubbles. Tighten voir filled with new, DOT 3 approved brake fluid.
the fitting firmly. Failure to keep the brake reservoir filled could
result in more air entering the system, making it
4.3 Move to the left rear caliper and repeat
steps for bleeding the caliper. impossible to effectively bleed the system.
5. If needed, add brake fluid to the master cylinder 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
reservoir. parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
2. Open the hood. 4.6 Check the fluid level in the master cylin-
der reservoir. Add new DOT 3 approved
3. Disconnect the batteries. The ignition must re- brake fluid if needed.
main off for the entire bleed procedure.
4.7 Using a wrench (and a rag to absorb
4. Bleed the master cylinder. leaking brake fluid), loosen the fitting at
NOTE: In most cases, it will not be neces- the front outlet port on the master cylin-
sary to bleed the master cylinder unless the der. See Fig. 4. Loosen the fitting about
brake fluid reservoir is dry or after replace- one turn.
ment of system components.
4.1 Using a wrench (and a rag to absorb
leaking brake fluid), loosen the fitting at
the rear outlet port on the master cylinder.
See Fig. 3. Loosen the fitting about one
turn.
10/27/94 f420374a
4.2 Have someone push the brake pedal 5.1 Put a wrench on the bleeder fitting at the
down slowly by hand to the floor. Brake caliper. Attach a length of clear tubing to
fluid and any air in the master cylinder the bleeder fitting. Make sure the tube fits
will squirt from the fitting. snugly. Submerge the tubing in a con-
tainer of clean brake fluid. See Fig. 2.
4.3 With the brake pedal held down, tighten
the rear hydraulic line fitting firmly. 5.2 Loosen the bleeder fitting by about a
three-quarter turn.
IMPORTANT: Do not release the brake
5.3 Have an assistant slowly push the brake
pedal until the fitting is tightened or more air pedal to the floor. With the brake pedal
will get into the system. depressed, tighten the bleeder fitting.
4.4 Release the brake pedal. IMPORTANT: Make sure the brake pedal
4.5 Loosen the fitting again and repeat the stays depressed while you tighten the fitting.
steps for bleeding as required until no air If it is released before you tighten the fitting,
escapes from the fitting and the brake more air will get into the system.
pedal feels firm.
Troubleshooting the ABS under normal operation, the ABS ECU will
ground circuit 376L at pin 8 of the X2 connector, thus
grounding the circuit leading to the instrument cluster
Meritor WABCO TOOLBOX and turning the ABS warning lamp on. See Fig. 1 for
Software ABS lamp relay wiring detail.
No Yes 2 Yes
No
Yes No
1
No
No
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
09/27/2002 f040634a
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
12 11 10 9 8 7 12 11 10 9 8 7
A B
1 2 3 4 5 6
12 11 10 9 8 7
09/30/2002
C f543085
A. 12-Pin Black X2 Connector B. 12-Pin Gray X1 Connector C. 12-Pin Green X3 Connector
5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5
9 8 7 6 6 7 8 9
13 12 11 10 10 11 12 13
A B
C F
D
06/16/2000 f430158
A. Harness Connector Pinout D. Pump Connector
B. Modulator Assembly Connector Pinout E. Pin 2, Pump Power
C. Main Ground F. Pin 1, Pump Ground
1
08/20/2002 f543902a
S R P N M L K J
1
H G F E D C B A
09/06/2002 f430334
1. B1 Connector 2. Frontwall
Fault Codes
J1587 Fault Code Troubleshooting
Description
(MID-SID) Table
136-001 Left Front Wheel Sensor * Table 4
136-002 Right Front Wheel Sensor Table 5
136-003 Left Rear Wheel Sensor Table 6
136-004 Right Rear Wheel Sensor Table 7
136-013 Retarder Table 8
136-014 Power Table 9
136-023 ABS Warning Light Table 10
136-030 Recirculation Pump Relay Table 11
136-042 Left Front Inlet Solenoid Valve Table 12
136-043 Right Front Inlet Solenoid Valve Table 13
136-044 Left Rear Inlet Solenoid Valve Table 14
136-045 Right Rear Inlet Solenoid Valve Table 15
136-048 Left Front Outlet Solenoid Valve Table 16
136-049 Right Front Outlet Solenoid Valve Table 17
136-050 Left Rear Outlet Solenoid Valve Table 18
136-051 Right Rear Outlet Solenoid Valve Table 19
136-054 Recirculation Pump Table 20
136-055 ECU Table 21
136-251 Low Voltage Table 22
136-253 Internal Tire Parameter Table 23
136-254 ECU Internal Fault Table 24
* Blink codes 5-1, 5-3 and 5-4 indicate a fault with the right front, right rear and left rear wheel sensors respec-
tively.
Table 1, Fault Codes
ABS Modulator Assembly Pin Connectors ABS Modulator Assembly Pin Connectors
Vehicle Wire Vehicle Wire
Pin Number Circuit Description Pin Number Circuit Description
Number Number
1 376LRO Left Rear Outlet Valve Right Rear Outlet
10 378RRO
Valve
2 378LRI Left Rear Inlet Valve
11 378RRI Right Rear Inlet Valve
3 — Not Used
12 378LFI Left Front Inlet Valve
4 378RFI Right Front Inlet Valve
13 378LFO Left Front Outlet Valve
Right Front Outlet
5 378RFO
Valve 1 GND Pump Ground
6 — Not Used 2 376A Pump Power
7 — Not Used Table 3, ABS Modulator Assembly Pin Connectors
8 GNDE Ground
9 — Not Used Troubleshooting Tables
J1587 Fault 136-001 Left Front Wheel Sensor
MID SID FMI Problem Test Test Result Action
1. Adjust the sensor. Sensor adjustment solved
Check the AC voltage Voltage greater the problem. Clear the
across Pins 5 and 8 of the than 0.2 VAC stored faults and drive the
136 001 01 Incorrect sensor air gap green X3 ECU connector vehicle 4 mph (6 km/h).
(Circuits 377LF+ and 377 Check for excessive wheel
LF–) while rotating the left Voltage less
bearing end play. Repair
front wheel 30 rpm. than 0.2 VAC
as necessary.
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Ref. Dia. G06−44428 Sht. 1 of 2
08/20/2002 f422364
Fig. 1, Wiring Diagram, ABS Wheel Sensor and Modulator Assembly (full view)
Fig. 3
Fig. 2, Wiring Diagram, ABS Wheel Sensor and Modulator Assembly (partial view)
Fig. 2
Fig. 3, Wiring Diagram, ABS Wheel Sensor and Modulator Assembly (partial view)
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7
08/20/2002 f422367
Fig. 4, Wiring Diagram, ABS Relays and Dash Wiring (full view)
Fig. 6
Fig. 6
Fig. 5, Wiring Diagram, ABS Relays and Dash Wiring (partial view)
Fig. 5
Fig. 5
Fig. 6, Wiring Diagram, ABS Relays and Dash Wiring (partial view)
Fig. 6
08/20/2002 f422370
Fig. 7, Wiring Diagram, ABS Relays and Dash Wiring (partial view)
General Information A A
A B
1
2
A B
06/20/2002 3 f422361
A. Supply Air
B. Delivery Air
1. Air-Flow Direction Arrow
2. Spring
3. Wafer-Type Check Valve
Principle of Operation
Air flow in the normal direction moves the check
valve from its seat, and the flow is unobstructed.
Flow in the reverse direction is prevented by the
seating of the ball or wafer-type disc, which is
caused by a drop in up-stream air pressure and as-
sisted by the spring.
Safety Precautions
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the
following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and
chock the tires.
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser-
voirs before beginning any work on the ve-
hicle. Depleting air system pressure may
cause the vehicle to roll. Keep hands away
from brake chamber pushrods and slack ad-
justers, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
• Disconnect the batteries.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pres-
sure has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al-
ways wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble or in-
stall a component until you have read and un-
derstood the service procedures. Some com-
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses all
of the original supports, clamps, or suspending
devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
certain all components and systems are re-
stored to their proper operating condition.
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Leakage Test
After repairing or replacing the single check valve, do
the following test:
1. With the brake air system fully pressurized, drain
the air from the supply reservoir (wet tank).
2. Remove the air line from the supply side of the
check valve.
3. Coat the open end of the check valve with soap
suds. A 1-inch (2.5-cm) or smaller bubble in 5
seconds is acceptable.
4. If the check valve is leaking too much, replace it.
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
2. Drain the air reservoirs.
3. Remove the supply line from the check valve.
4. Remove the check valve from the air reservoir.
Installation
1. Screw the check valve into the supply end of the
air reservoir. To ensure the valve is not reversed,
the arrow marked on the valve body must point
in the direction of air flow.
2. Leak test the check valve following the instruc-
tions under Subject 110.
3. Connect the supply line to the open end of the
check valve.
4. Remove the chocks from the tires.
General Information cant needed to filter and dry the air that
passes through it.
The System Saver 1200 air dryer (see Fig. 1) is a • Heater/Thermostat Assembly—located in the
desiccant air dryer, mounted vertically between the air dryer base, this assembly is designed to
air compressor and the supply reservoir. The air prevent the collected moisture from freezing.
dryer receives hot compressed air, which it cools and
• Outlet Check Valve—this valve prevents air in
filters before sending it to the supply reservoir, reduc-
the system from flowing back through the air
ing the build-up of dirt and moisture in the vehicle air
dryer and escaping out the purge valve during
system.
the compressor unload cycle.
• Pressure-Controlled Check Valve—this valve is
separate from the air dryer and is installed on
the system air tank. The valve allows air to
back flow from the system tank to the supply
tank as long as air system pressure remains
4
between the normal cut-in and cut-out range of
the air governor.
• Purge Valve—this valve allows the collected
5 moisture and contaminants to be expelled from
the air dryer during the purge cycle.
• Regeneration Valve—this valve allows air from
3
the supply and system tanks to bypass the
2 outlet check valve and flow into the regenera-
tion valve. Air then flows through an orifice
where the air expands and back flushes mois-
1 ture off of the desiccant. The air is then ex-
9 6 hausted through the purge valve.
06/18/2004 8 7 f422407 • Silencer (Muffler)—an optional component that
1. Pressure Relief Valve is attached to the purge valve and used to
2. Heater/Thermostat Assembly eliminate most of the noise during the air dryer
3. Governor Port (to air governor) purge cycle.
4. Desiccant Canister
5. Regeneration Valve Assembly • Turbocharger Cut-Off Valve—this valve closes
6. Outlet Port (to air supply reservoir) the path between the air compressor and the
7. Exhaust Port (Purge Valve Assembly) air dryer purge valve to help maintain boost
8. Turbocharger Cutoff Valve pressure for maximum engine horsepower dur-
9. Inlet Port (from air compressor) ing the compressor unload cycle.
Fig. 1, WABCO System Saver 1200
Principles of Operation
The air dryer consists of a light-weight aluminum and
steel body. The desiccant cartridge is contained in a Hot, compressed air enters the air dryer through the
spinoff canister at the top of the air dryer. inlet port. As the hot air is forced into the desiccant
The following components attach to the body of the cartridge, the temperature of the compressed air falls
air dryer: to nearly ambient. Oil and water vapor condense and
initially settle into the base of the dryer. The
• Pressure Relief Valve—this valve protects the moisture-laden air also passes through the desiccant
air dryer from over pressurization. The valve is bed, where any remaining moisture is retained by the
attached directly to the air dryer. desiccant. The clean air then passes through the air
• Desiccant Canister—a cylindrical steel housing dryer outlet port to the supply reservoir. See Fig. 2 .
that contains the filter elements and the desic-
07/23/97
5 f421613
1. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
2. Desiccant Canister
3. Filter
4. Regeneration Valve Assembly
5. Exhaust Port (Purge Valve Assembly)
6. Pressure Relief Valve
Safety Precautions
WARNING
When draining the air system, do not look into
the air jets or direct them toward another person,
as dirt or sludge particles may be in the air-
stream. Do not disconnect pressurized hoses be-
cause they may whip as air escapes from the
line. Failure to take all necessary precautions
during service operations of the air brake system
can cause personal injury.
WARNING Installation
Before starting the procedures below, read the 1. Position the air dryer on the mounting bracket.
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to Install the spacers, washers, and capscrews.
follow the safety precautions during service op- Tighten them 22 to 30 lbf·ft (30 to 41 N·m). See
erations on the air brake system can cause per- Fig. 1 .
sonal injury. 2. Make sure the air lines are clean. Replace any
line or fitting that is crimped or damaged.
Removal 3. Connect the remaining air lines to the air dryer
as previously marked. Tighten the nut on each
1. Drain the air system. fitting finger-tight. Then, using two wrenches to
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from the air dryer. prevent twisting the hose, further tighten the nut
until there is firm resistance.
3. Mark the air lines for later reference, then dis-
connect them from the air dryer. 4. Connect the air dryer wiring harness.
4. Remove the capscrews, washers, and spacers 5. Pressurize the air system and check for leaks.
that attach the air dryer to the mounting bracket. Repair as necessary.
5. Remove the air dryer. See Fig. 1.
07/11/97 f421608
1. Desiccant Canister
2. 1/2" Capscrew, Washer, and Spacer
Before starting the procedures below, read the 8. Install the new piston with its hollow side facing
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to out.
follow the safety precautions during service op- IMPORTANT: If the valve cavity is damaged,
erations on the air brake system can cause per- preventing a tight seal, replace the air dryer.
sonal injury.
9. Install the new spring, cover, and snap ring to
1. Drain the air system. hold the components in place.
2. Remove the snap ring at the bottom of the valve 10. Thread the desiccant cartridge onto the dryer
assembly. The valve cover and spring may fall base (turn clockwise). When the seal contacts
out of the cavity when the snap ring is removed. the base, tighten the cartridge one complete turn
See Fig. 1. more. Do not over-tighten.
04/30/2004 1 f421289a
3
1 2 4
08/09/94 f421290
WARNING 10. Connect the air line to the outlet port. Tighten the
nut on the fitting finger-tight. Then, using two
Before starting the procedures below, read the wrenches to prevent twisting the hose, further
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to tighten the nut until there is firm resistance.
follow the safety precautions during service op- Tighten the nut one-sixth turn more.
erations on the air brake system can cause per-
sonal injury.
3
4
5
07/23/97 f421614
1. O-Ring 4. Washer
2. Valve Body 5. Snap Ring
3. Spring
2
3
08/05/94 f421292
1. Seal
2. O-Ring
3. Air Dryer Base
Replacement
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the air brake system can cause per-
sonal injury.
3 4
08/09/94 f421293
1. Thermostat 3. O-Ring
2. Receptacle 4. Heater Element
2 4
1 3
07/30/97 f421616
1. Diaphragm 3. Spring
2. Retainer 4. Valve Housing Assembly
Replacement
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the air brake system can cause per-
sonal injury.
2
3
04/30/2004 f421295a
1. Purge Valve Head
2. Snap Ring
3. Silencer
Replacement
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the air brake system can cause per-
sonal injury.
06/18/2004 f422406
1. Pressure Relief Valve
3 4
04/05/95 f421297
1. Air Line
2. Nylon Tube Connector
3. Pressure-Controlled Check Valve
4. Hex Nipple Pipe Fitting
5. Air Tank
Troubleshooting Table
Meritor WABCO System Saver 1200 Troubleshooting
Meritor WABCO System Saver 1200 Troubleshooting
Condition Possible Cause Solution
Dryer leaks from purge valve during Purge valve frozen open (cold weather Check heater. Repair/replace if
compressor-loaded cycle. The leak may operation). necessary. Make sure governor to dryer
cause excessive compressor cycling or port 4 line is free of water/oil.
prevent the system from building air
pressure. Remove and inspect purge valve and
clean water/oil from top of piston.
Debris under purge valve seat, such as Disassemble and clean purge valve.
particles from fittings or air inlet line.
Purge valve washer installed upside- Remove cartridge and clean dryer
down. sump area. Ensure lip on aluminum
washer faces DOWN, away from dryer.
Wrong air-line connected to dryer port 4 Verify correct air-line installation and
(unloader port). correct as needed.
Purge valve snap-ring not fully seated Seat snap-ring fully into groove.
in groove.
Slight leak from purge valve. After Outlet check valve not seating or Remove, inspect, and clean outlet
several hours, the supply tank may be regeneration valve not shutting off check valve and regeneration valve
empty. regeneration airflow. diaphragms. Replace if worn or
damaged.
Regeneration cycle too long (more than Outlet check valve not seating. Inspect and replace outlet check valve
30 seconds), accompanied by loss of as needed.
pressure in the supply tank.
Regeneration valve not shutting off Replace regeneration valve.
regeneration airflow.
Regeneration cycle too short (less than High air system demands during Increase air system capacity or reduce
10 seconds). compressor unloaded cycle. air demands.
Pressure-controlled check valve not Check and replace pressur-econtrolled
installed in system or not working check valve as needed.
properly.
One-way check valve installed in Remove one-way check valve. Make
system reservoir instead of, or with, sure pressure-controlled check valve is
pressure-controlled check valve. installed correctly.
Regeneration valve not working. Remove regeneration valve and clean
oil from diaphragm.
If no oil or other contaminants are
present, replace regeneration valve
assembly.
Air governor not working properly. Inspect per manufacturer’s instructions
and repair/replace as needed.
14
6
2 15
7
10 11
8
1
9
13
07/23/97
12 f421617
General Information
The Bendix PP–DC parking brake air valve is in-
stalled on trucks with air brakes, and is used to con-
trol the rear axle parking brakes. It is a push-pull
type of valve, and is mounted on the right side of the
dash.
Principles of Operation
When the valve knob is pulled out, air is exhausted
from the parking brake chambers, releasing the
springs, and applying the parking brakes. When the
knob is pushed in, air flows into the parking brake
chambers from the air reservoirs, and compresses
the springs, releasing the parking brakes.
The PP–DC has a double check valve feature. The
valve uses air pressure from the air system (primary
or secondary) with the higher pressure for the park-
ing brakes. If the pressure drops below 20 to 30 psi
(138 to 207 kPa) in both air systems, the brakes will
automatically apply. The parking brakes will not apply
automatically unless pressure is lost from both sys-
tems.
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
• Chock the tires and stop the engine before
working under a vehicle. Keep hands away
from brake chamber push rods and slack ad-
justers; the brakes may apply as air system
pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pres-
sure has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Never attempt to disassemble a component
until you have read and understood recom-
mended procedures. Some components con-
tain powerful springs and injury can result if
not properly disassembled. Use only proper
tools and observe all precautions pertaining to
use of those tools.
IMPORTANT: To do the following tests, ensure 3. With the valve knob pulled out, supply either
that two separate 120 psi (827 kPa) vehicle air supply port with 120 psi (827 kPa) of pressure.
sources are connected to the PP–DC supply Push the valve knob in. Air pressure should rise
ports. See Fig. 1. Tee an accurate test gauge in the delivery line and equal supply line pres-
into the supply lines, and provide for a means to sure.
control supply line pressure. Connect a small Pull the valve knob out. Delivery pressure should
volume air source with a gauge to the delivery exhaust to zero.
port. 4. Build air pressure to each supply source to 120
psi (827 kPa). Decrease supply pressure at the
Operating Test secondary service reservoir supply port at a rate
of 10 psi (69 kPa) per second.
1. Chock the tires.
2. Start the engine and build up the air pressure to
the normal operating level.
3 5
2 6
1
07/18/95 f421347
Leak Testing
1. Chock the tires.
2. Supply the valve with 120 psi (827 kPa) from the
primary reservoir supply port.
3. With the valve knob pulled out, coat the exhaust
port and the plunger stem with a soapy solution.
Leakage at either fitting should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5 cm) bubble every five seconds. There
should be no leakage from the secondary reser-
voir supply port.
4. Supply the valve with 120 psi (827 kPa) from the
secondary reservoir supply port. There should be
no leakage from the primary reservoir supply
port.
5. With the valve knob pushed in, coat the exhaust
port and the plunger stem with a soapy solution.
Leakage at the fittings should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5 cm) bubble every three seconds. If it
does, replace or repair the valve, following in-
structions in Subject 130.
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Removal
1 2
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock 3
the tires.
2. Drain the air system and disconnect the batter-
ies.
07/27/2004 f610742
3. Remove the screws from the dash panel and 1. Park Brake Valve Knob
remove the panel. See Fig. 1. 2. Interior Dash Panel
3. Cigarette Lighter Receptacle
2 1
07/27/2004 f610741
Assembly
1. Clean and dry all the parts. See Fig. 1.
2. Check all the parts. Replace a part if any wear or
damage is found.
3. Lightly grease all the parts—including the new
parts from the maintenance kit—with Dow Corn-
ing 55 silicone pneumatic grease or equivalent.
4. Position the check valve in its seat in the body
with the flat surface of the valve facing up. If
needed, reach into the body to make sure that
the valve is seated evenly in the bore.
5. Install the O-rings on the check valve seat and
install the assembly into the body. Make sure
that the check valve seat is even with the valve
body surface.
4
13
6
6
6
5
6
12 7
11
10
07/18/95 f421348
1. Screw 6. O-Ring 10. Exhaust Seal
2. Valve Knob 7. Check Valve 11. Plunger
3. Cover 8. Index Tab 12. Plunger Stem
4. Check Valve Seat 9. Plunger Spring 13. Guide Spool
5. Valve Body
General Information the brake. The adjuster lever seats against the star-
wheel on the adjuster nut and rotates the starwheel
when adjustment is necessary. See Fig. 4.
The Bosch parking brake is a lever-actuated, duo-
servo, single-anchor drum brake. See Fig. 1. The
brake is designed for driveline-mounted applications
typically on the rear axle yoke. Its self-adjusting fea-
ture enables the brake to maintain a consistent func-
tional clearance between the brake shoes and the
drum as the shoe linings wear.
Major Components
The foundation of the brake is a ductile iron backing
plate that mounts to the differential pinion housing
with four capscrews. Major actuating components are
a cam and a lever, which are fastened to the backing
plate by an anchor screw. An anti-rattle spring under
the head of this screw prevents clatter. The anchor
point for brake actuation and shoe abutment is lo-
cated at the 12 O’clock position when the assembly
is properly mounted. See Fig. 2.
NOTE: The parking brake drum is not a Bosch
part, it is a stamped steel drum supplied by
Meritor.
11
13
12
10
14
15
16
8 17
8
7 5
18
19
6
5
4
20
3
21
22
1
23
2
12/08/2004 f430408
NOTE: The brake drum and brake mounting components are not shown.
1. Lower Return Spring 9. Lever Guide 17. Adjuster Cable Guide
2. Right Brake Shoe 10. Cam 18. Hold-Down Spring
3. Hold-Down Spring 11. Adjuster Cable 19. Left Brake Shoe
4. Upper Return Spring 12. Lever 20. Auto-Adjuster Spring
5. Screw 13. Adjuster Cable Spring 21. Auto-Adjuster Lever
6. Hold-Down Bracket 14. Spring End Fitting 22. Adjuster Nut
7. Backing Plate 15. Anti-Rattle Spring 23. Adjuster Screw
8. Hold-Down-Spring Pin 16. Anchor Screw
Fig. 1, Bosch Parking Brake (exploded view)
3 4 10
5
2
6 11
12
8
7
7
13
6
1
5
4 3 2 14
09/17/2004 f430409
1. Backing Plate 5. Anti-Rattle Spring 09/17/2004 1 f430410
2. Cam 6. Lever 1. Adjuster Nut and Screw Assembly
3. Anchor Screw 7. Lever Guide 2. Starwheel
4. Anchor Point 3. Adjuster Nut
4. Adjuster Screw
Fig. 2, Parking Brake Major Components 5. Shoe Hold-Down Bracket
6. Lower Shoe Return Spring
7. Hold-Down Spring
8. Pin (opposite side not shown)
9. Brake Shoe
10. Upper Shoe Return Spring
11. Brake Shoe
12. Backing Plate
13. Hold-Down Spring
14. Shoe Hold-Down Bracket
7
3
2 8
09/20/2004 1 9 f430411
1. Starwheel 6. Adjuster Cable
2. Adjuster Nut 7. Spring End Fitting
3. Adjuster Screw 8. Adjuster-Cable
4. Anchor Screw Spring
5. Cable Guide 9. Auto Adjust Lever
Safety Precautions
WARNING
Breathing brake lining dust could cause lung
cancer or lung disease. OSHA has set maximum
levels of exposure and requires workers to wear
an air purifying respirator approved by NIOSH or
MSHA. Wear a respirator at all times when servic-
ing the brakes, starting with removal of the
wheels and continuing through assembly.
3
2 3
A B
11/29/2004 f410512
A. Outside View B. Inside View
1. Drum 2. Capscrew and Washer 3. Flange-Yoke
WARNING 4. If you are removing the drum only, mark the posi-
tion of the drum on the flange-yoke, then remove
Before starting the procedures below, read the the eight capscrews and washers that hold the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to drum to the yoke flange, then pull the drum off of
follow the safety precautions during service op- the flange. If the drum is difficult to remove, in-
erations on the brake system can cause personal sert a narrow screwdriver through the brake ad-
injury. justing hole in the backing plate and disengage
the adjuster lever from the adjuster nut teeth.
IMPORTANT: Do not use a drum puller or a With the adjuster lever disengaged (see Fig. 2),
torch to remove a brake drum. Drum distortion insert a brake adjusting tool through the adjust-
may result. ing hole to engage the adjusting nut teeth. Move
the teeth upward enough times to retract the
brake shoes to clear the drum. If the drum is
rusted to the axle-input-flange-yoke pilot, tap the spline as marked during removal, then install the
center of the brake drum with a non-metallic mal- pinion nut. See Group 35.
let to loosen it.
4. Attach the driveline. See Group 41.
5. Adjust the brake shoes. See Subject 140.
6. Lower the vehicle.
A
7. Test the brake for proper operation before return-
ing the vehicle to service.
C
09/27/2004 f430419
Installation
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the brake system can cause personal
injury.
Removal Installation
WARNING Proper orientation of all brake components, par-
ticularly the various springs, including their
Before starting the procedures below, read the hook-ends must be maintained for proper brake
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to function.
follow the safety precautions during service op- 1. Clean the backing plate.
erations on the brake system can cause personal
injury. 2. Apply a light film of Wolfrakote paste ledge
grease, or an equivalent, to the six backing plate
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down shoe ledges and the anchor post. See Fig. 4.
the engine, and chock the front wheels.
3. Apply a Chevron heavy-duty, lithium complex,
2. Place the transmission in gear and release the extreme-pressure grease, or equivalent, to the
parking brake. cam plate lugs where they contact the shoe ends
and the brake lever.
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle so the wheels clear
the floor, and install jack stands. 4. Apply a Chevron heavy-duty, lithium complex,
extreme-pressure grease, or an equivalent, to
4. Mark the position of the driveshaft in relation to
the threads of the adjuster screw and the socket
the differential, then unbolt the driveshaft from
end of the adjuster nut. Install the screw fully into
the differential and secure it out of the way. See
the adjuster nut. Ensure the screw moves in and
Group 41.
out freely. If any damage to the threads prohibits
5. Remove the drum. See Subject 110. free movement, or if the starwheel is damaged,
replace the adjuster assembly.
6. Inspect the brake. See Subject 170.
5. Place one shoe in the installed position. See
NOTE: Special tools are available for many of Fig. 5. Make sure the shoe with the adjuster
the steps in this procedure. See Subject 400. cable guide and adjuster pin is installed on the
7. Detach the adjuster cable from the adjuster lever correct side.
and slide the cable off of the adjuster cable 6. Install the shoe hold-down pin. See Fig. 5.
guide. See Fig. 1.
7. Position the second shoe and the adjuster nut
8. Remove the adjuster lever and the adjuster and screw assembly. See Fig. 3. The adjuster
spring. See Fig. 1. Save the parts for installation. nut should be seated against the shoe with the
9. Using pliers, or a special tool, remove both shoe- adjuster cable guide and pin. Attach the shoe
return springs. See Fig. 2. hold-down spring to the shoe hold-down pin, us-
ing a brake spring tool. See Fig. 3.
10. Detach the parking brake cable and the lever
return spring from the lever. 8. Install both shoe-return springs. See Fig. 5.
11. Remove the anchor bolt and move the lever to 9. Install the adjuster spring and the adjuster lever.
provide access to the shoe hold-down spring. Ensure that the adjuster lever is properly seated
Subject 130 for procedure. against the starwheel. See Fig. 5.
12. Using a brake shoe spring tool or needlenose 10. If the lever has been removed, install the lever
pliers, remove both of the shoe hold-down and its associated components. See Sub-
springs. See Fig. 3. ject 130.
13. Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate. 11. Route the adjuster cable around the adjuster
cable guide, under the shoe hold-down spring,
14. Disassemble the adjuster nut and screw assem- and attach it to the adjuster lever.
bly for cleaning and inspection of the threads.
A B
C D
09/28/2004 f430412
A. Raise the lever off the starwheel and push up. C. Disengage the lever spring.
B. Disengage the spring. D. Remove the lever and lever spring.
Fig. 1, Adjuster Lever and Adjuster Spring Removal
1
2
3
1
09/27/2004 f430413
1. Pliers 2. Upper Return Spring 3. Lower Return Spring
A 1
2
A
1
A
2
4
5 3
09/28/2004 f430414 B
09/28/2004 f430415
1. Hold-Down Spring 3. Hold-Down Spring
2. Hold-Down Spring 4. Adjuster Nut A. Apply Wolfrakote paste ledge grease.
Tool 5. Adjuster Screw B. Apply Chevron lithium grease.
1. Anchor Post
Fig. 3, Shoe Hold-Down Spring Removal 2. Threads
3. Socket
Correctly assembled, the adjuster cable end-
fitting is behind the adjuster lever, with the spring Fig. 4, Apply Grease to the Wear Points
hook facing out. See Fig. 6.
12. Adjust the shoe cage. See Subject 140.
13. Inspect, service, and install the brake drum. See
Subject 110.
14. Attach the driveshaft. See Group 41.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Test the brake for proper function before return-
ing the vehicle to service.
6
7
4 9
3 10
11
12
2
1
09/20/2004 f430416
1. Adjuster Nut
2. Adjuster Screw
3. Lower Shoe Return Spring
4. Hold-Down Spring
5. Hold-Down Pin (opposite side not shown)
6. Upper Shoe Return Spring
7. Adjuster Cable
8. Adjuster Cable Guide
9. Hold-Down Spring
10. Adjuster Spring
11. Adjuster Pin
12. Adjuster Lever
3
1
B
09/27/2004 f430417
A. Correct adjuster spring position.
B. Spring hook faces out when properly installed.
1. Adjuster Spring 2. Adjuster Cable 3. Adjuster Cable Guide
Fig. 6, Adjuster Cable Installation
8. Detach the adjuster cable from the adjuster lever 19. Inspect, service, then install the drum. See Sub-
and slide the cable off of the adjuster-cable ject 110.
guide. See Fig. 1. 20. Attach the driveshaft. See Group 41.
9. Remove the anchor screw. See Fig. 2. 21. Lower the vehicle.
10. Remove the anti-rattle spring, lever, cam, and 22. Test the brake for proper function before return-
adjuster cable. See Fig. 2. ing the vehicle to service.
11. Remove the cured thread-locking compound
from the anchor post threads. Run an M12 x
1.75 tap completely into the anchor post, and
back it out. Blow out the hole with compressed
air to remove any remaining debris.
12. Lubricate all parts with Chevron RPM high tem-
perature grease or equivalant.
13. Install the adjuster cable, new cam, new lever,
anti-rattle spring (small coil end toward screw
head), and new anchor screw. See Fig. 2. Make
A B
C D
09/28/2004 f430412
A. Raise the lever off the starwheel and push up. C. Disengage the lever spring.
B. Disengage the spring. D. Remove the lever and lever spring.
Fig. 1, Adjuster Lever and Adjuster Spring Removal
1 3
4
5
2
6
1
7
11/11/2004 f430421
A. Adjuster Cable Routing and Spring Attachment to Adjuster Lever
1. Anchor Screw 4. Cam 7. Adjuster Cable Guide
2. Anchor Post 5. Lever 8. Lever Guide
3. Adjuster Cable 6. Anti-Rattle Spring
3
1
B
09/27/2004 f430417
A. Correct Spring Position B. Spring Hook Facing Out
1. Adjuster Spring 2. Adjuster Cable 3. Adjuster Cable Guide
WARNING
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the brake system can cause personal
injury.
C
09/27/2004 f430419
• A hand valve located on the dash A. Before adjustment C. 3/8 inch (9 mm)
B. Sleeve extended
• The column-mounted shifter, when placed in 1. Sleeve 2. Bracket
"Park"
Fig. 1, Cable Sleeve Extended
The hand-valve and the column-mounted shifter con-
trol an air-actuated spring chamber, mounted on the 3. Release and apply the parking brake three times,
frame rail near the parking brake. Follow the appro- assuring a solid application.
priate procedure below when adjusting the brake
cable after replacing the parking brake, parking brake 4. If needed, tighten the adjuster again until the
components, or any of the parking brake actuation sleeve again extends from the bracket approxi-
components. mately 3/8 inch (9 mm).
5. Tighten the jam nut.
Cable Adjustment, Foot-Pedal- 6. Test the brake for proper operation before return-
Actuated Parking Brake ing the vehicle to service.
B A
3 4
1
3
2
1 2
D C
02/02/2006 f430348a
A. Pull adjuster nut forward until cable slack is
removed.
B. Reposition jam nut to align with end of adjuster
nut.
C. End of adjuster nut when pulled tight.
6 D. Jam nut before repositioning
4 5 1. Pushrod 3. Adjuster Nut
2. Jam Nut 4. Cable
10/11/2004 f430438
1
11/24/2004 f410511
1. Mounting Fasteners (4)
Fig. 1, Backing Plate Assembly (flange removed)
Inspection 3 4 5
2
WARNING 6
Before starting the procedures below, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
follow the safety precautions during service op-
erations on the brake system can cause personal
injury.
7
NOTE: It is not necessary to raise the vehicle
for inspection in most cases.
Anytime service is required, inspect all components
in the parking brake assembly.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 1
the engine, and chock the front tires.
2. Remove the drum. See Subject 110.
3. Clean the individual brake components, removing
dust and grease to the extent reasonable. 09/17/2004 f430409
1. Backing Plate 5. Anti-Rattle Spring
4. Inspect the brake shoes. Shoes should be re- 2. Cam 6. Lever
placed if: 3. Anchor Screw 7. Lever Guide
• There is uneven lining wear, or when the 4. Anchor Point
remaining lining reaches approximately Fig. 1, Parking Brake Major Components
1/32 inch (0.76 mm) thickness, or less,
above the shoe; 8. Inspect the adjuster nut and screw (see Fig. 2)
for any damage to the threads, or burrs, chips, or
• Grease, automotive fluids, or other foreign
other damage to the teeth on the adjuster-nut
material that would compromise operation
starwheel. Damaged teeth or threads may pre-
is found on, soaked into, or embedded in
vent proper function of the brake self-adjusting
the linings;
function. Replace as necessary. See Sub-
• Cracks, excessive deformation, or wear at ject 120.
either end of the shoe is found.
9. Clean-out all dust or grease from the inside of
5. Inspect the brake lever and cam. See Fig. 1. If the drum. Using a 12-inch caliper, or an inside-
cracks, excessive wear, or abnormal deformation diameter micrometer, measure the inside diam-
are found in either part, replace as an assembly, eter of the drum. Replace the drum if it exceeds
the brake lever, cam, and anchor screw. Light the manufacturer’s recommended maximum in-
wear, which typically shows up as polishing, or side diameter (which typically is stamped on the
as shiny spots, is acceptable. If you are unsure, inside of the drum near the mounting holes), if it
replace, as an assembly, the brake lever, cam, is worn unevenly, has deep grooves, heavy cor-
and anchor screw. See Subject 130. rosion, or excessive runout.
6. Inspect the springs and hold down pins (see 10. Inspect the parking-brake lever apply cable for
Fig. 2) for excessive wear, heat discoloration, excessive wear or damage. Replace it if neces-
heavy corrosion, or other damage. Replace dam- sary.
aged parts as necessary. See Subject 120.
11. Inspect the differential pinion seal for evidence of
7. Inspect the adjuster cable assembly for damage leakage that can contaminate the parking brake
or wear. See Fig. 2. Replace as necessary. See system parts. Replace the seal as necessary.
Subject 120.
10
11
12
8
7
13
6
5
4 3 2 14
09/17/2004 1 f430410
1. Adjuster Nut and Screw Assembly
2. Starwheel
3. Adjuster Nut
4. Adjuster Screw
5. Shoe Hold-Down Bracket
6. Lower Shoe Return Spring
7. Hold-Down Spring
8. Pin (opposite side not shown)
9. Brake Shoe
10. Upper Shoe Return Spring
11. Brake Shoe
12. Backing Plate
13. Hold-Down Spring
14. Shoe Hold-Down Bracket
Troubleshooting
Problem—Light Force or Lack of Resistance When Applying Brake Lever (on manual apply systems)
Problem—Light Force or Lack of Resistance When Applying Brake Lever (on manual apply systems)
Cause Remedy
Shoe cage under-adjusted Adjust shoes; see Subject 140.
Worn or deformed actuation components (lever, cam lugs, Inspect and replace damaged components; see
shoe ends) Subject 130 or Subject 120.
Apply system is not operating properly Inspect application components and repair as necessary;
see Subject 130 or Subject 120.
Problem—Heavy Force or Excessive Resistance When Applying Brake Lever (on manual apply system)
Problem—Heavy Force or Excessive Resistance When Applying Brake Lever (on manual apply system)
Cause Remedy
Over-adjusted brake Adjust shoes; see Subject 140.
Apply system is over-adjusted Inspect application components and repair/adjust as
necessary; see Subject 150.
Component Specifications
Item Dimension Specifications
thickness, new (above shoe) 0.277 inch (7 mm) (at center)
Shoe Lining: thickness, replace (above shoe) 0.030 inch (0.76 mm)
width 3 inch (75 mm)
inside diameter 12.000 inch (304.8 mm)
maximum inside diameter 12.035 inch (305.7 mm)
Drum (typical): (non-Bosch part)
thickness 0.315 inch (8 mm)
surface finish 125 micro inch (3.2 micro m) or less
Table 1, Component Specifications
Special Tools
Tool Brand Part Number
KD 3499
Matco SP104
Heavy Brake Spring Tool BST 4480
Lisle 44800
SnapOn BT 19A
Matco RST10
Brake Shoe Retaining Spring Tool
Vim Tools B10
SnapOn BT22A
Parking Brake Cable Removal Tool
Lisle 40800
Table 3, Special Tools
1
6
4 7
8 9
3
10
10/05/2005 f422419
1. Mounting Studs 5. 41 Park Control (from dash 8. Exhaust
2. 42 Control Port valve) 9. Delivery
3. Exhaust 6. 41 Balance Port 10. Pipe Plug (QRV applications
4. Delivery 7. Supply Port only)
42 1 2 3 4
41
5
40
6
39 7
8
9
10
38
11
37
12
36
13
35
14
15
34
16
33 17
18
19
20
32 31 21
30
29
28 22
27 26 25 24 23
10/07/2005 f422420
1. Main Piston 15. O-Ring 29. O-Ring
2. Control Piston 16. O-Ring 30. O-Ring
3. Spring Guide 17. Lower Body 31. Spring
4. Upper Body 18. Valve Retainer 32. Ball Check Valve
5. Retaining Ring 19. Spring 33. O-Ring
6. O-Ring 20. Inlet/Exhaust Valve 34. Check Valve Guide
7. O-Ring 21. Lower Valve Guide 35. Supply Port
8. Spacer 22. Retaining Ring 36. O-Ring
9. Main Piston Spring 23. Exhaust Port 37. Spring
10. Static Piston 24. #10 Torx Screw 38. Inline Single Check Valve
11. O-Ring 25. Diaphragm Washer 39. Park Control Port
12. O-Ring 26. Diaphragm 40. Check Valve Cover
13. Static Piston Spring 27. Retaining Ring 41. Double Check Valve
14. O-Ring 28. Valve Seat 42. O-Ring
CAUTION
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve.
The valve contains high spring forces that could
result in personal injury if disassembly is at- B
tempted.
2
Operation A
3
The operation guidelines shown in this manual repre-
sent the relay valve based SR-7. A quick-release-
based valve functions similarly to the relay-valve-
based version with the exception that all air delivered
to the spring brakes passes through the park control C
port through the in-line single check valve. The SR-7
quick release style can be easily identified by the
pipe plug in the supply port of the valve. See Fig. 1.
For vehicle-specific plumbing diagrams, go to EZWir- 1
ing. 10/11/2005 f422421
A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
Charging the Spring Brake B. Control line pressure
C. Delivery to spring brakes
Actuators Below 107 PSI (737 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Open
kPa) 2.
3.
Balance Port
Control Port
With the air brake system charged and the parking
brakes released (by pushing in the dash valve but- Fig. 3, Charging the Spring Brake Actuators Below 107
PSI (737 kPa)
ton), air enters the park control port. This opens the
SR-7 valve, to supply air pressure to the spring
brake chambers. As illustrated, air pressure in the Parking
chambers is below 107 psi (737 kPa) (nominal). See Actuating the park brakes (by pulling out the dash
Fig. 3. valve button) exhausts spring brake air pressure
through the SR-7 valve exhaust port. See Fig. 6.
Charging the Spring Brake
Actuators Above 107 psi (737 Service Application with Loss of
kPa) Air in Primary Circuit
Once the SR-7 valve delivery pressure reaches 107 With the parking brakes released (dash valve button
psi (nominal), the inlet and exhaust are closed (valve in) and the absence of air in the primary circuit deliv-
lap position). This maintains the spring brake hold-off ery, a service brake application from the secondary
pressure at 107 psi (nominal). See Fig. 4. circuit causes the pressure in the spring brakes to be
exhausted proportionally to this application. This is
known as spring brake modulation. A 30 psi (207
Normal Service Application kPa) service brake application will exhaust the spring
During a service brake application, the valve remains brake pressure to approximately 60 psi (414 kPa).
in the lap position. The SR-7 valve monitors the See Fig. 7.
presence of air pressure in both primary and second-
ary delivery circuits. See Fig. 5.
B B
2
C
A A
3
D
C E
1 1
10/11/2005 f422422 10/11/2005 f422423
A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Delivery to spring brakes C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure
1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
2. Balance Port E. Delivery to spring brakes
3. Control Port 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated
Fig. 4, Charging the Spring Brake Actuators Above 107 Fig. 5, Normal Service Application
PSI
hausted from the spring brake chambers and the ve-
Service Application with Loss of hicle remains parked using the spring brake actua-
tors. See Fig. 9.
Air in Secondary Circuit
With the parking brakes released (dash valve button
in) and the absence of air in the secondary circuit
reservoir, the external single check valve in the sup-
ply port seals to prevent air leakage to atmosphere
from the SR-7 valve. The dash valve delivery air
flows through the inline single check valve and be-
comes SR-7 valve supply air. This air is delivered to
maintain at least 107 psi (737 kPa) (nominal) in the
spring brake chambers. See Fig. 8.
Anti-Compounding
The SR-7 valve provides anti-compounding of the
service and spring brake forces. When the park
brakes are actuated (by pulling out the dash valve
button), a service brake application will cause the
SR-7 valve to deliver air pressure to the spring brake
chambers. Thus the vehicle is held stationary using a
service brake application. When the service brake
application is released, the delivery pressure is ex-
B B
2
C
A A
3
D
C E
1 1
10/11/2005 f422424 10/11/2005 f422425
A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Delivery to spring brakes C. Balance port—loss of primary circuit pressure
1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
2. Balance Port E. Delivery to spring brakes
3. Control Port 1. Inlet Valve Seated
2. Main Piston Moves Up
Fig. 6, Parking
Fig. 7, Service Application with Loss of Air in Primary
Circuit
B B
C C
A
1
A D D
E E
1
10/11/2005 f422426 10/11/2005 f422427
A. Secondary reservoir no pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure
D. Control port—loss of secondary circuit pressure D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
E. Delivery to spring brakes E. Delivery to spring brakes
1. Inline Single Check Valve 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Open
Removal Installation
1. If a new valve is being installed, install the fit-
WARNING tings removed from the old valve.
Before working on or around air brake systems 2. Position the valve on the crossmember bracket
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. and install the mounting nuts. Tighten to 15 to 18
Failure to do so could result in personal injury. lbf·ft (20 to 24 N·m).
3. Attach all the air lines as noted during removal.
CAUTION
4. Before returning the vehicle to service, perform
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve. the operating and leakage tests in Subject 120,
The valve contains high spring forces that could Tests.
result in personal injury if disassembly is at-
tempted.
10/12/2005 f422429
1. SR-7 Valve
Operating Test foot brake valve has been applied several times,
the pressure reading on the gauge will drop to
the point where release of the spring brake ac-
WARNING tuators will no longer occur.
Before working on or around air brake systems NOTE: The SR-7 valve is not servicable. If the
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. valve does not function as described, replace it.
Failure to do so could result in personal injury.
Leakage Test
CAUTION
Place the park control valve in the RELEASE posi-
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve. tion; using a soap solution, coat all ports including
The valve contains high spring forces that could the exhaust port. A 1-inch (25-mm) bubble in three
result in personal injury if disassembly is at- seconds is permitted.
tempted.
NOTE: The SR-7 valve is not servicable. If the
1. Chock the tires. valve does not function as described, or if leak-
2. Charge the air brake system to governor cut-out age is excessive, replace it.
pressure.
3. Place the parking control valve in the PARK posi-
tion. Observe that the spring brake actuators ap-
ply promptly.
4. Remove one line from a delivery port of the SR-7
valve and install a test gauge that is known to be
accurate. See Fig. 1 for the port locations.
5. Place the parking control valve in the RELEASE
position. Observe that the spring brake actuators
fully release.
6. With the parking control valve still in the RE-
LEASE position, note the gauge pressure read-
ing. Correct spring brake actuator hold-off pres-
sure is 107 psi (737 kPa) nominal.
7. Place the parking control valve in the PARK posi-
tion. The gauge reading should drop to zero
promptly. A lag (more than 3 seconds) in the
drop of pressure would indicate faulty operation.
8. With the parking control valve still in the PARK
position, gradually apply the foot brake valve and
note a pressure reading increase on the gauge
installed in the SR-7 valve delivery port.
9. Place the parking control valve in the RELEASE
position.
10. Drain the reservoir that supplies the rear service
brake circuit; apply the foot brake valve several
times and note that the pressure reading on the
gauge decreases each time the foot brake valve
is applied (spring brake modulation). After the
1
6
4 7
8 9
3
10
10/05/2005 f422419
1. Mounting Studs 5. 41 Park Control (from dash 8. Exhaust
2. 42 Control Port valve) 9. Delivery
3. Exhaust 6. 41 Balance Port 10. Pipe Plug (QRV applications
4. Delivery 7. Supply Port only)
Description 8
7
Bendix air disc brakes use a floating caliper design 9
to provide foundation braking on all axles. They are 6
fitted with a standard brake chamber or a combina- 5
tion spring brake chamber, depending on the vehicle 1 2 3 4
specification, and the position on the vehicle. The
caliper-carrier and anchor plate are a proprietary de-
sign available only on Daimler vehicles. This design
allows for easy removal and installation of the
caliper/carrier assembly on all axles, without remov-
10
ing other major components. See Fig. 1.
12 11
05/29/2008 f422472
1. Outer Brake Pad 7. Brake Chamber
4 2. Rotor 8. Supply Port
3. Inner Brake Pad 9. Pressure Plate
4. Return Spring 10. Diaphragm
5. Lever 11. Eccentric Bearing
6. Pushrod 12. Bridge
General Safety Precautions the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
WARNING etc., should be the equivalent size, type,
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or length, and strength of the original equipment.
drums, always replace components as an axle • Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that
set. all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at pending devices are installed or replaced.
the same time. • Replace devices that have stripped threads or
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining
the same time. should not be attempted.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or • Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single certain all components and systems are re-
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, stored to their proper operating condition.
at the same time. Do not mix component
types. Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
Safety
age, personal injury, or death.
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the WARNING
following precautions: Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and and continuing through assembly. Breathing
chock the tires. brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser- quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
voirs before beginning any work on the vehicle. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
Depleting air system pressure may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
calipers, which may apply as air pressure should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
drops. the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
• Disconnect the batteries. possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line lung disease) and cancer.
containing compressed air. It may whip as air Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
plug unless you are certain all system pressure health hazard, the following precautions should also
has been released. be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al- Areas where brake work is done should be separate
ways wear safety glasses when working with from other operations, if possible. As required by
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
rect them at anyone. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble, or in- During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
stall a component until you have read and un- high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
derstand the service procedures. Some com- and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury worn during all procedures.
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
1
WARNING 3
WARNING 4
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
drums, always replace components as an axle 3
set. 2
Removal
1. Shut down the engine. Chock the tires on the
axle that is not being serviced.
2. If working on the drive axle, carefully cage and
lock the spring brakes so that the springs cannot 3
actuate during disassembly. 2
Back out the release bolt using a maximum
07/02/2008 1 f422480
torque of 26 lbf·ft (35 N·m) to release spring
force on the pushrod. See Fig. 1. 1. Adjuster Cap 3. Adjuster
2. Shear Adaptor
3. Drain the air from the air system.
4. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety Fig. 2, Shear Adaptor in Position
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
NOTICE
5. Remove the wheel(s). See Group 40.
Do not use an open-ended wrench, as this may
IMPORTANT: Before removing the brake pads, damage the adaptor.
check the adjuster mechanism for proper opera-
tion. IMPORTANT: Never turn the adjuster without
the shear adaptor installed. The shear adaptor
6. Using the tab, pull off the adjuster cap, being is a safety feature and is designed to prevent an
sure to keep the shear adaptor in position on the excess of torque being applied to the adjuster.
adjuster. See Fig. 2.
The shear adaptor will come loose if too much
2
1
3
4
07/10/2008 f422471
C
B
B
A
06/06/2008 f422481
11/18/2008 f422497
1 2
9 8
5
7
12
5 6
5
11 4
10
10
11/20/2008 f422503
1. Hub and Disc Assembly 5. Washer 9. Anchor Plate Bolt
2. Caliper/Carrier Assembly 6. Spindle Assembly 10. Caliper Mounting Capscrew
3. Brake Chamber 7. ABS Sensor Bushing 11. Anchor Plate
4. Nut 8. Carrier Guide Bushing 12. Anchor Plate Capscrew
2. Raise the axle being serviced, and support it with compressed spring can cause serious personal
an appropriate jackstand. injury or death.
3. Remove the wheels. See Group 40. 4. Carefully cage and lock the spring brakes so that
the springs cannot actuate during disassembly.
WARNING Back out the release bolt using a maximum
torque of 26 lbf·ft. (35 N·m) to release spring
When work is being done on the spring chamber, force on the pushrod. See Fig. 3.
carefully follow the service instructions of the
chamber manufacturer. The sudden release of a 5. Drain the air from the air system.
3 5
2
11
12 6
8
11
9
8 7
10
11/21/2008 f422507
1. Hub and Rotor Assembly 5. Spring Brake Chamber 9. Rotor Shield Capscrew
2. Anchor Plate 6. Axle End 10. Rotor Shield
3. Carrier Guide Bushing 7. Nut 11. Caliper Mounting Capscrew
4. Caliper/Carrier Assembly 8. Washer 12. Bolt
6. Cut the zip ties holding the ABS harness to the 10. Clean and inspect the anchor plate contact area.
brake hose as needed. If damage is found, replace the anchor plate.
See Subject 140.
7. Remove the brake chamber from the caliper. See
Subject 150.
8. Remove the rotor shield, if equipped.
Rear Caliper/Carrier Assembly
9. With the caliper/carrier assembly securely sup- Installation
ported, remove and discard the six bolts attach-
ing the carrier to the anchor plate. Remove the 1. Position the new carrier/caliper assembly, and
caliper/carrier assembly. attach it to the anchor plate with new bolts.
Tighten 170 to 200 lbf·ft (230 to 271 N·m).
3
2
12/11/2008 f422505
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
8. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
as follows, before you put the vehicle in service.
8.1 Apply and release the brakes several
times to check for air leaks and proper
operation.
8.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
proper parts replacement and full vehicle
control.
WARNING
1
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury. 2
WARNING
3
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or 4
drums, always replace components as an axle
set.
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at
the same time.
11/19/2008 f422498
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at 1. Rotor 3. Washer
the same time. 2. Hub 4. Capscrew
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single Fig. 1, Front Rotor Installation
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle,
at the same time. Do not mix component
types. 1
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
age, personal injury, or death. 2
1
4 8
7 5
10 2
3 9
03/06/2009 6 f422500
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
7. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
as follows, before you put the vehicle in service.
7.1 Apply and release the brakes several
times to check for air leaks and proper
operation.
7.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
proper parts replacement and full vehicle
control.
7.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
check the rotor temperatures. Any rotors
that are significantly cooler than others
show a lack of braking effort on those
wheels.
3. Raise the axle being serviced, and support it on 2.1 Install the 2-inch capscrew, washers, and
a jackstand. nut, in the hole next to the ABS sensor
hole.
4. Remove the wheels. See Group 40.
2.2 Then install the 1-1/2-inch capscrews that
5. Remove the rotor shield, if equipped. See Fig. 2. thread into the steering knuckle.
6. Remove the caliper/carrier assembly. See Sub- 2.3 Tighten the 2-inch capscrew 144 to 164
ject 120. lbf·ft (195 to 222 N·m), and the 1-1/2-inch
7. Remove the hub and disc assembly. See Sub- capscrews 168 to 188 lbf·ft (228 to 255
ject 130. N·m) using the sequence shown in Fig. 3.
8. Cut the zip ties holding the ABS sensor harness 3. Install the hub and disc assembly. See Sub-
in place. ject 130.
9. Disconnect the ABS sensor harness at its con- 4. Install the ABS sensor. Push it in by hand, as far
nection to the chassis harness, then feed it as it will go.
through the hole in the anchor plate and secure 5. Install the caliper/carrier assembly. See Sub-
it in a safe manner. ject 120.
10. Remove the fasteners and remove the anchor 6. Install the wheel. See Group 40.
plate.
7. Remove the jackstand, and lower the vehicle.
1 2
9 8
5
7
12
5 6
5
11 4
10
10
11/20/2008 f422503
1. Hub and Disc Assembly 5. Washer 9. Anchor Plate Bolt
2. Caliper/Carrier Assembly 6. Spindle Assembly 10. Caliper Mounting Capscrew
3. Brake Chamber 7. ABS Sensor Bushing 11. Anchor Plate
4. Nut 8. Carrier Guide Bushing 12. Anchor Plate Capscrew
3 5
2
11
12 6
8
11
9
8 7
10
11/21/2008 f422507
1. Hub and Rotor Assembly 5. Spring Brake Chamber 9. Rotor Shield Capscrew
2. Anchor Plate 6. Axle End 10. Rotor Shield
3. Carrier Guide Bushing 7. Nut 11. Caliper Mounting Capscrew
4. Caliper/Carrier Assembly 8. Washer 12. Bolt
8.3 Immediately after doing the above stops, and 9 o’clock positions empty. Tighten 144 to
check the rotor temperatures. Any rotors 164 lbf·ft (195 to 222 N·m), using the sequence
that are significantly cooler than others shown in Fig. 3.
show a lack of braking effort on those 2. Feed the ABS sensor harness through the hole
wheels. in the anchor plate, and connect it at the chassis
harness. Secure it with zip ties as needed.
Rear Anchor Plate Installation 3. Install the hub and disc assembly. See Sub-
ject 130.
1. Position the anchor plate on the axle flange with
the ABS sensor hole at the 12 o’clock position on 4. Install the caliper/carrier assembly. See Sub-
the axle flange. Install the ten capscrews, ject 120.
washers, and nuts, leaving the holes at 12, 3, 5. Install the rotor shield, if equipped.
A 1
4
8
5
7
A
A
2
10
3
9
6
03/06/2009 f422510
A. Open Holes
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
8. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
as follows, before you put the vehicle in service.
8.1 Apply and release the brakes several
times to check for air leaks and proper
operation.
8.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
proper parts replacement and full vehicle
control.
8.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
check the rotor temperatures. Any rotors
that are significantly cooler than others
show a lack of braking effort on those
wheels.
06/05/2008 f422477
1 A B 1. Drain Plugs
2. Brake Chamber Mounting Nuts
3. Brake Chamber
5. Cut the zip ties holding the ABS wire to the air 6. Secure the ABS wire to the brake hose. Be sure
hose. to leave flex room.
6. Disconnect the air hose at the frame rail connec- 7. Uncage the spring brake.
tion. 8. Install the wheels.
7. While supporting the spring brake chamber in 9. Lower the vehicle.
position, remove and discard brake chamber
mounting nuts. Remove the brake chamber.
8. If replacing the brake chamber, remove the air
WARNING
hose to use on the new one. Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
Spring Brake Chamber To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
ability, which could cause personal injury or
Installation death, and property damage.
10. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
IMPORTANT: Replace the brake chamber, or as follows, before you put the vehicle in service.
spring-brake chamber, only with units that are
the same as originally installed on the vehicle. 10.1 Apply and release the brakes several
Replacement with alternate equipment could times to check for air leaks and proper
compromise brake performance and the vehicle operation.
warranty. Do not use brake chambers with seals 10.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
with a thickness less than 0.12 in. (3 mm). See proper parts replacement and full vehicle
Fig. 1. Use only brake chambers which are rec- control.
ommended by DTNA. 10.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
NOTE: New brake chambers have drain hole check the rotor temperatures. Any rotors
plugs installed in all positions. After installation, that are significantly cooler than others
show a lack of braking effort on those
remove whichever plug is at the lowest position.
wheels.
Be sure that all other drain holes remain
plugged.
1. If replacing the brake chamber, install the air
hose from the old chamber.
2. Before installing the new brake chamber, clean
and inspect the brake chamber flange for dam-
age. The seal, as well as the pushrod area must
be clean and dry. See Fig. 3.
3. Lubricate the spherical cup in the lever with
white grease. Do not use grease containing mo-
lybdenum disulfate. See Fig. 3.
4. Install the brake chamber using new self-locking
nuts. Alternately tighten both nuts in increments
to a final torque of 126 to 140 lbf·ft (170 to 190
N·m).
5. Connect the air hose. Be sure that the hose is
not twisted, or in contact with moving vehicle
components. The air hose routing must allow for
full caliper travel.
General Information The air dryer will remain in the charge cycle until the
air brake system pressure builds to the governor cut-
out setting of approximately 130 psi (896 kPa).
The function of the Integrated Solution Air Dryer (AD-
IS®) and reservoir system is to provide vehicles with
an integrated air dryer, purge reservoir, governor, and Purge Cycle
a number of the charging valve components in a Figure 3 shows the purge cycle.
module. See Fig. 1.
When air brake system pressure reaches the cutout
The AD-IS® air dryer and reservoir system collects setting of the governor, the governor unloads the
and removes air system contaminants in solid, liquid, compressor and the purge cycle begins. When the
and vapor form before they enter the brake system. governor unloads the compressor, it pressurizes the
It provides clean, dry air to the components of the compressor unloader mechanism and the dryer con-
brake system, which increases the life of the system. trol port. The purge piston moves in response to air
pressure, causing the purge valve to open and the
Charge Cycle turbo cutoff valve to close. When the purge valve
Figure 2 shows the charge cycle. opens, water and contaminants are expelled. Air
flowing through the desiccant cartridge changes di-
When the compressor is loaded, compressed air, oil, rection and begins to flow toward the open purge
oil vapor, water, and water vapor flow through the valve. Oil and solid contaminants collected in the oil
compressor discharge line to the inlet port of the air separator are removed by air flowing from the purge
dryer body. reservoir, through the desiccant drying bed, and out
As air travels through the air dryer assembly, its tem- through the open purge valve.
perature falls, causing some of the contaminants to The purge cycle lasts only a few seconds and is de-
condense and drop to the bottom of the air dryer as- tected by an audible burst of air at the air dryer
sembly, ready to be expelled at the next purge cycle. exhaust.
The air then flows into the desiccant cartridge. Once The reactivation of the desiccant drying bed begins
in the desiccant cartridge, air flows through an oil as dry air flows from the purge reservoir, through the
separator which removes oil and solid contaminants. purge orifice, and into the desiccant bed. Pressurized
Air then flows into the desiccant drying bed. Air flow- air from the purge reservoir expands after passing
ing through the desiccant becomes progressively through the purge orifice; its pressure is lowered and
dryer as water vapor adheres to the desiccant mate- its volume is increased. The flow of dry air through
rial. the drying bed reactivates the desiccant material by
removing the water vapor adhering to it. Approxi-
Dry air exits the bottom of the desiccant cartridge mately 30 seconds is required for the entire purge
and flows through the center of the base assembly. reservoir of a standard air dryer to flow through the
The air then flows to the delivery check valve, to the desiccant dryer bed.
safety valve and also through an orifice plug into the
purge reservoir. Air traveling through the delivery The delivery check valve assembly prevents air pres-
check valve flows to the governor and the four pres- sure in the brake system from returning to the air
sure protection valves. dryer during the purge cycle. After the purge cycle is
complete, the air dryer is ready for the next charge
As pressure builds during the initial charge, the cycle to begin.
purge reservoir fills. When the air pressure reaches
106 psi (731 kPa), the four pressure protection Turbo Cutoff Feature
valves open and air is supplied to the primary reser-
voir, secondary reservoir, and accessories. If the The primary function of the turbo cutoff valve is to
pressure protection valves are preset to different val- prevent loss of turbocharger air pressure through the
ues, the valves open in order of the lowest to the air dryer when the dryer is in the unloaded mode.
highest setting when charging a flat system. During the purge cycle, the downward travel of the
purge piston is stopped when the turbo cutoff valve
contacts its mating metal seat in the purge valve
2
1
12
13
3
17
4 14
16
11 15
5
6
7
8
9 10
03/17/2011 f430536
1. Governor Reservoir 7. Governor Unloader 13. Safety Valve
2. Delivery to Secondary Reservoir 8. Governor 14. Heater/Thermostat
3. Delivery to Primary Reservoir 9. Governor Exhaust 15. Pressure Protection Valves (4)
4. Pressure Protection Valves 10. Supply from Compressor 16. Auxiliary Delivery Ports (4)
5. Purge Valve 11. Mounting Bolts (3) 17. Auxiliary Delivery Ports (2)
6. Purge Reservoir 12. Desiccant Cartridge
12
11 13 14
15
10
16
7 8
6 A B C D
5 19
3 17 18
20
4
2 21
22
03/21/2011 f430537
1. Compressor 9. Unloader Port 16. Pressure Protection Valves
2. Engine Turbo 10. Governor 17. Primary Port
3. Safety Valve 11. Delivery Check Valve (open) 18. Secondary Port
4. Purge Control Channel Drain 12. Desiccant Bed 19. Auxiliary Ports
5. Purge Valve (closed) 13. Oil Separator 20. Purge Reservoir Drain Valve
6. Turbo Cutoff Valve (open) 14. Purge Orifice 21. Secondary Reservoir
7. Inlet Port 15. Purge Reservoir 22. Primary Reservoir
8. Purge Control Channel
11
10 12 13
14
9
15
6 7
5 A B C D
4 18
3 16 17
19
2 20
21
03/21/2011 f430538
NOTE: All pressure protection valves are shown open.
1. Compressor 8. Unloader Port 15. Pressure Protection Valves
2. Engine Turbo 9. Governor 16. Primary Port
3. Safety Valve 10. Delivery Check Valve (closed) 17. Secondary Port
4. Purge Valve (open) 11. Desiccant Bed 18. Auxiliary Ports
5. Turbo Cutoff Valve (closed) 12. Oil Separator 19. Purge Reservoir Drain Valve
6. Inlet Port 13. Purge Orifice 20. Secondary Reservoir
7. Purge Control Channel 14. Purge Reservoir 21. Primary Reservoir
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
• Chock the tires and shut down the engine be-
fore working under a vehicle. Depleting air sys-
tem pressure may cause the vehicle to roll.
Keep hands away from brake chamber push-
rods and slack adjusters, which may apply as
air pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pressure
has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Don’t disassemble a component until you have
read and understood the service procedures.
Some components contain powerful springs,
and injury can result if not properly disas-
sembled. Use the correct tools, and observe all
precautions pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc., should be the equivalent size, type,
length, and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
pending devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining should
not be attempted.
3
3
3
02/28/2011 f430535
1. Air Reservoir 3. Capscrews
2. Air Dryer
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for desiccant cartridge replacement.
2
3
04/16/98 f421910
1. Desiccant Cartridge
2. Cartridge Sealing Ring
3. Threaded Base Post
2 3
7 4
6
5
02/23/2000 f430116a
1. Air Dryer Base 4. Capscrews 7. Spring
2. Gasket 5. Adaptor 8. Check Valve Body
3. Governor 6. O-Ring 9. O-Ring
1 3
2
05/04/98 f421924
1 3
2 4
04/13/98
5 f430117
1. Retaining Ring
2. Heater/Thermostat Connector Plug
3. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
4. O-Ring
5. Air Dryer Body
2 1
02/28/2011
1 f430534
1. Mounting Bracket 3. Strap Fastener
2. Air Reservoir 4. Frame Rail
4. Check all air lines and fittings leading to and 9.2 Test the thermostat and heater operation.
from the air dryer for leakage. Note the pressure Turn off the ignition switch and cool the
on the air gauge after the governor cutout pres- thermostat and heater assembly to below
sure is reached, a rapid loss of pressure could 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter, check the
indicate a leaking delivery port check valve or resistance between the electrical pins in
turbo cut-off valve. the air dryer connector half. The resis-
tance should be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the
5. To check for delivery check valve leakage, allow 12-volt heater assembly and 6 to 9 ohms
the system air pressure to charge and listen for for the 24-volt heater assembly.
the air dryer to purge. The purge should last
about 30 seconds. Warm the thermostat and heater assembly
to about 90°F (32°C) and check the resis-
6. Gradually open the drain cock on the purge tank tance again. The resistance should ex-
and exhaust any residual pressure. ceed 1000 ohms. If the resistance values
7. Coat the drain cock with a soap solution. If leak- obtained are within the stated limits, the
age does not exceed a 1-inch (25-mm) bubble in thermostat and heater assembly is operat-
1 second, go to step 9. ing properly. If the resistance values ob-
tained are outside the stated limits, re-
If leakage does exceed a 1-inch (25-mm) bubble place the heater and thermostat assembly.
in one second, proceed with the following step. For instructions, see Subject 150.
8. Apply the brakes a few times, bring the air pres- 10. Check the pressure protection valves. Observe
sure to a point below governor cut-in (about 95 the pressure gauges of the vehicle as system
psi [655 kPa]). The governor will then signal the pressure builds from zero. The primary gauge
end of the purge cycle, closing the turbo cut-off should rise until it reaches approximately 109 psi
valve. Allow any delivery line air pressure to (752 kPa), then level off as the second pressure
drain, then check again for leakage at the purge protection valve opens and allows the secondary
tank drain cock. If excessive leakage has volume to build. When the secondary pressure
stopped, the turbo cut-off valve should be gauge passes through approximately 55 and 85
checked. psi (379 and 586 kPa) there should be an asso-
NOTE: If after replacing the delivery check ciated leveling off of pressure as the third and
valve, rapid loss of system air pressure contin- fourth pressure protection valves open. Then,
ues, the delivery check valve and turbo cut-off both the primary and secondary gauges should
valve are still leaking. Check the valves. reach their full pressure of about 130 psi (896
kPa).
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
The check valve is inoperative. Refer to "Problem—Air Dryer Is Constantly Cycling or Purging."
The turbo cut-off valve is leaking. Repair or replace the purge valve assembly.
The purge valve control piston quad-ring is Repair or replace the purge valve assembly.
leaking.
Discharge line is kinked or blocked. See if air passes through the discharge line. Check for kinks, bends, or
excessive carbon deposits.
There are excessive bends in the Discharge line should be constantly sloping from the compressor to the air
discharge line. Water is collecting and dryer with as few bends as possible.
freezing.
Pressure protection valves in the air dryer Replace the air dryer; pressure protection valves are not serviceable.
will not open.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste, or
small beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
The air dryer is not securely mounted; Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
there is excessive vibration.
Cloth-covered perforated plate in the air Replace the plate or cartridge as needed. High operating temperatures may
dryer desiccant cartridge is damaged, or cause deterioration of filter cloth. Check the installation.
the cartridge was rebuilt incorrectly.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Heater and thermostat, wiring, or a fuse is Test the heater and thermostat. Refer to Subject 170 for instructions.
at fault, and isn’t allowing the air dryer to
purge during cold weather.
Desiccant cartridge is not attached Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
properly to the end cover. instructions.
1. Desiccant Canister
rated, the air passes from the vehicle air filter
2. Pressure Relief Valve directly to the air compressor intake and does
3. Governor not require a turbocharger cutoff valve.
4. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
5. Control Port (to the air compressor unloader port)
6. Date Code Information (for the air dryer) Principles of Operation
7. Air Dryer Inlet (from the air compressor discharge)
8. Turbocharger Cutoff Valve Hot, compressed air enters the air dryer through the
9. Exhaust Port (Purge Valve Assembly) inlet port. As the hot air is forced into the desiccant
10. Delivery/Outlet Port (to the air supply reservoir) cartridge, the temperature of the compressed air falls
to nearly ambient. Oil and water vapor condense and
Fig. 1, WABCO System Saver 1200 Plus initially settle into the base of the dryer. The
moisture-laden air also passes through the desiccant
The air dryer consists of a light weight aluminum and
bed, where any remaining moisture is retained by the
steel body. The desiccant cartridge is contained in a
desiccant. The clean air then passes through the air
spinoff canister at the top of the air dryer.
dryer outlet port to the supply reservoir.
The bottom half of the air dryer houses the following
When the compressor reaches 125 psi (862 kPa),
components.
the purge valve opens, allowing the initial decom-
• Pressure Relief Valve—this valve protects the pression of the dryer, and expelling the water and
air dryer from over pressurization. The valve is contaminants collected in the base of the dryer.
attached directly to the air dryer.
• Desiccant Canister—a cylindrical steel housing
that contains the filter elements and the desic-
cant needed to filter and dry the air that
passes through it.
Safety Precautions
WARNING
When draining the air system, do not look into
the air jets or direct them toward another person,
as dirt or sludge particles may be in the air-
stream. Do not disconnect pressurized hoses be-
cause they may whip as air escapes from the
line. Failure to take all necessary precautions
during service operations of the air brake system
can cause personal injury.
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
• Apply the parking brake, chock the tires, and
stop the engine when working under the ve-
hicle. Draining the air system may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake
chamber pushrods and slack adjusters, which
may apply as air system pressure drops.
• Wear safety goggles.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing air under pressure; it may whip as
air escapes. Never remove a component or
pipe plug unless you are sure all system pres-
sure has been depleted.
• Do not disassemble a component before read-
ing and understanding recommended proce-
dures. Use only the correct tools and follow
basic tool safety.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc., should be the same size, type, length,
and strength as the original equipment. When
replacing tubing or hose, be sure that all of the
original supports, clamps, or suspending de-
vices are installed or replaced.
• Replace any components that have stripped
threads or damaged parts. Do not attempt to
repair parts by machining.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure.
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Refer to Fig. 1 for removal and installation of the air
dryer.
Removal
1. Drain the air system.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from the air dryer.
3 1
3. Mark the air lines for later reference; then, dis- 2
connect them from the air dryer.
02/11/2011 f422534
4. Remove the mounting screws and washers that
attach the air dryer to the mounting bracket. 1. Air Dryer 3. Washer
2. Mounting Screw
5. Remove the air dryer.
Fig. 1, Air Dryer Installation (left-hand forward frame
Installation mounting shown)
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
IMPORTANT: The turbocharger cutoff valve is
optional on the WABCO System Saver 1200
Plus air dryer.
Replacement
1. Drain the air system.
2. Remove the snap ring at the bottom of the valve 1
assembly. See Fig. 1 for the location of the tur-
bocharger cutoff valve and Fig. 2 for an example
of the turbocharger cutoff valve assembly. 2
2
3
4
3
02/15/2011 f422531a
1. Piston 3. Cover
2. Sleeve 4. Snap Ring
02/24/2011 f422552
10. Connect the air line to the outlet port. Tighten the
WARNING nut on the fitting finger-tight. Then, using two
wrenches to prevent twisting the hose, further
Before working on or around air brake systems
tighten the nut until there is firm resistance.
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Tighten the nut one-sixth turn more.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for valve replacement.
3
4
5
07/23/97 f421614
1. O-Ring 4. Washer
2. Valve Body 5. Snap Ring
3. Spring
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
NOTICE
The WABCO System Saver 1200 Plus air dryer 2
can use either a standard or oil coalescing desic- 3
cant cartridge. When replacing the desiccant car-
tridge, it is very important to use the same type
of cartridge that was originally installed on the
1
dryer. Oil coalescing cartridges can be used in
any application, but require more frequent ser-
vice intervals (every 1 to 2 years instead of every
2 to 3 years for a standard cartridge). Do not re-
place an oil coalescing cartridge with a standard
cartridge, as this may result in contamination and 08/05/94 f421292
malfunctioning of downstream air system compo- 1. Seal 3. Air Dryer Base
nents. 2. O-Ring
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for heater/thermostat assembly re-
placement.
3 4
08/09/94 f421293
1. Thermostat 3. O-Ring
2. Receptacle 4. Element
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for silencer replacement.
2
1
02/24/2011 f422550
1. Silencer 2. Purge Valve Head
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for valve replacement.
02/24/2011 f422549
1. Pressure Relief Valve
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
IMPORTANT: When replacing the governor, use
only the Meritor WABCO governor specified for
use with the System Saver 1200 Plus air dryer.
Replacement
1. Remove the mounting bolts, governor and gasket
as shown in Fig. 1. Discard the gasket.
2 4
1
02/24/2011 f422551
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so may result in personal injury.
Problem—Air Dryer Purges Too Often and Is Accompanied by Excessive Cycling of the Compressor
Problem—Air Dryer Purges Too Often and Is Accompanied by Excessive Cycling of the Compressor
Possible Cause Remedy
There is a leak in the line between the Repair the air line.
unloader port of the air compressor and
dryer port 4.
There is a leak in the line between the Repair the air line.
supply tank and the delivery/outlet port.
Excessive air system leaks. Repair all leaks.
Excessive air system demands. Increase the air system capacity or reduce air demand.
The outlet check valve does not seal. Inspect and replace the outlet check valve as needed.
There is a leak at the air governor gasket. Replace the gasket.
The air governor has less than 16 psi Replace the air governor.
(110 kPa) range.
The air compressor’s unloader(s) is Inspect the air compressor and repair or replace it according to the
leaking. manufacturer’s instructions.
Problem—The Air Dryer Does not Purge When the Compressor Unloads (No Blast of Air from the Purge Valve)
Problem—The Air Dryer Does not Purge When the Compressor Unloads (No Blast of Air from the Purge Valve)
Possible Cause Remedy
The air line between the unloader port of Repair the air line.
the air compressor and air dryer port 4 is
kinked or plugged.
The purge valve is stuck closed. Replace the purge valve.
The air governor is not working properly. Inspect the air governor and repair or replace it according to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut-out pressure is never achieved by the Check for air leaks in the system and repair as needed. If no leaks are found,
air compressor. check the compressor output. Repair or replace the compressor according to
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Problem—There Is Rapid "Spitting" of Air from the Purge Valve in Small Amounts; Frequency Varies With Engine Speed
Problem—There Is Rapid "Spitting" of Air from the Purge Valve in Small Amounts; Frequency Varies With Engine
Speed
Possible Cause Remedy
A Holset E-type compressor is being Replace the air dryer with an SS1200E air dryer.
used, but a non-1200E air dryer is
installed.
The compressor does not completely Inspect the compressor and repair or replace it according to the
unload when cut-out pressure is reached. manufacturer’s instructions.
This is normal for air dryers that are not Not applicable.
equipped with an optional turbocharger
cutoff valve.
Problem—Air Leaks at the Turbo Cutoff Valve Vent; There Is a Hole Burned in the Piston
Problem—Air Leaks at the Turbo Cutoff Valve Vent; There Is a Hole Burned in the Piston
Possible Cause Remedy
The temperature of the air coming into the Move the dryer farther from the compressor. Add additional compressor
dryer is too high, and there is not enough discharge line before the air dryer. Add a cooling coil or heat exchanger before
cooling taking place before the air gets to the air dryer.
the air dryer inlet.
NOTE: The inlet air temperature must not exceed 175°F (79°C).
The valve bore is worn excessively. Inspect the valve bore for wear. If a new turbo cut-off valve does not seal in a
clean, lubricated bore, replace the air dryer.
The piston is broken. Replace the turbocharger cutoff valve. See Subject 120.
Problem—The Air Dryer Is Frozen (Water Collected in the Base of the Air Dryer Freezes)
Problem—The Air Dryer Is Frozen (Water Collected in the Base of the Air Dryer Freezes)
Possible Cause Remedy
There is no power to the heater Check for a blown fuse. Repair the heater circuit.
connector.
NOTE: There must be power to the heater connector the entire time the
vehicle’s ignition is activated.
Low voltage to the heater connector. Repair the cause of low voltage—poor electrical ground, bad connections,
corroded wire splices, etc.
The heater assembly is not working. Replace the heater assembly.
An incorrect voltage air dryer is being Replace with the correct voltage air dryer.
used (for example a 12V air dryer in a
24V system).
Problem—The air dryer leaks from the purge valve during a compressor loaded cycle (the leak may cause excessive
compressor cycling or prevent the system from building air pressure)
Problem—The air dryer leaks from the purge valve during a compressor loaded cycle. The leak may cause
excessive compressor cycling or prevent the system from building air pressure.
Possible Cause Remedy
The purge valve is frozen open. Check the heater, and repair or replace it if necessary. Make sure the air line
between the unloader port of the air compressor and dryer port 4 is free of
water and oil. Remove and inspect the purge valve, and clean any water or oil
from the top of the piston.
Debris is under the purge valve seat. Remove the purge valve and clean it. See Subject 130 for instructions to
remove the purge valve. Remove the desiccant cartridge and clean the dryer
sump area. See Subject 150 for instructions.
The purge valve washer is installed Make certain the lip on the washer faces down, away from the air dryer.
upside down.
The wrong air line is connected to air Verify that the dryer port 4 line is connected to the "UNL" port of the air
dryer port 4. compressor.
The purge valve snap ring is not fully Seat the snap ring fully into the groove.
seated in the groove.
Problem—The regeneration cycle is too long (more than 30 seconds), accompanied by loss of pressure in the supply
tank
Problem—The regeneration cycle is too long (more than 30 seconds), accompanied by loss of pressure in the
supply tank
Possible Cause Remedy
The outlet check valve is not seating. Inspect the outlet check valve. Replace the valve if needed.
3
5
11
6
2 12
10
1
7
10
8
02/24/2011
9 f422532
General Information The AAVA solenoid current is about 1.5 amps. Ve-
hicles built with chassis module (CHM) version 3.4
use a chassis power distribution module (PDM) with
As of April 5, 2010, the auxiliary air valve assembly
relays that switch power to the AAVA solenoids. Ve-
(AAVA) replaced the air management unit (AMU).
hicles with CHM version 4.1 or later drive the AAVA
The AAVA is a collection of electronic valves and
solenoids directly with no need for relays in a chassis
pressure switches of modular form attached in a row
PDM. See Specifications 400 for further information.
on the frame rail. The AAVA is usually located in the
rear suspension area of the vehicle. However, it
could be located anywhere on the vehicle chassis or Solenoid Valve Module
body. The solenoid modules control ON-OFF air options.
The AAVA performs air-controlled functions such as All solenoid valve modules are normally closed (NC).
axle differential locks, power takeoff (PTO), and fifth See Fig. 2. The solenoid valve module delivers air
wheel slide. It also provides for pneumatic logic con- when electrically activated.
trols via double-check, inversion, relay, and pressure The inlet to the solenoid valve module mates to the
regulation, therefore replacing double-check, inver- port on the adjacent AAVA. Pressure protected air
sion, and relay valves on the vehicle. will pass through the AAVA from the internal supply
The typical AAVA layout contains one or more of the port and out of the internal delivery port to supply the
following. See Fig. 1 for a typical AAVA installation. next solenoid to the next AAVA.
• AAVA Module
• Solenoid Valve Module
04/20/2012 f422564
1. Electrical Connector 3. Supply Port
03/30/2012 f422560 2. Delivery Port
Principles of Operation
AAVA Module
The AAVA is a solenoid-only assembly with a com-
mon air supply for the normally closed solenoids.
The AAVA solenoids are located on the suspension
crossmember, where the AMU was located on earlier
vehicles. Pressure switches that were previously in
the AMU are now located under the dash.
1
2
3
03/30/2012 f422562
1. L-Bracket Bolt 4. Air Supply Port
2. L-Bracket 5. Delivery Ports
3. Solenoid Valves
Troubleshooting
To troubleshoot the auxiliary air valve assembly
(AAVA) system, test the 12 V supply from the power
distribution module (PDM) to the 12 V solenoid, and
verify that the solenoid opens and closes. The fuses
and relays for this functionality are located in the
PDM. Refer to EZWiring™ for specific vehicle wiring
information.
10/30/2001 f461921
1. Upper Steering Column Cover
2. Lower Steering Column Cover
Fig. 1, Steering Column Covers
2
3
1
2
3
10/19/2001 f461919
1. Steering Gear 3. Pinch Bolt 5. Boot Bushing
2. Nut 4. Steering Driveline 6. Boot
Fig. 2, Steering Driveline Installation
Testing
WARNING
All steering mechanisms are essential to the safe
operation of the vehicle. Follow the instructions
in this subject exactly. Failure to do so may re-
sult in loss of steering, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
1. Have someone gently turn the steering wheel
back and forth. Check for looseness between the
ball stud end and the pitman arm, and between
the ball stud end and the steering arm. If the ball
stud end is loose, replace the drag link. For in-
structions, see Subject 100.
2. Check for looseness of the ball stud nut. If the
ball stud nut is loose, replace the nut and the
cotter pin. Tighten the ball stud nut using the ap-
propriate torque value.
• 3/4–16, 90 to 170 lbf·ft (122 to 230 N·m)
• 7/8–14, 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 407 N·m)
3. Grasp the drag link near the pitman arm and
move the drag link back and forth to check for
axial movement in the ball stud end. If there is
movement, replace the drag link. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 100. If there is movement of
1/8 inch (3 mm) or more, do not drive the vehicle
until the drag link is replaced.
4. Grasp the drag link near the steering arm and
move the drag link back and forth to check for
axial movement in the ball stud end. If there is
movement of 1/8 inch (3 mm) or more, replace
the drag link. For instructions, see Subject 100.
5. Apply grease to the drag link until all the old
grease is purged.
Installation
10° 10°
NOTE: Before installing the steering wheel,
make sure the front tires are pointed straight
ahead and that the steering gear is centered.
05/21/2008 f462140 1. Thread the horn wiring harness through the
1. 9 o’clock position 2. 3 o’clock position steering wheel center hole and set the steering
wheel on the steering column, see Fig. 2.
Fig. 3, Steering Wheel Position
2. Make sure that the steering wheel is within ±10
3. Install a new steering wheel nut and tighten 55 to degrees of center as shown in Fig. 3.
65 lbf·ft (75 to 88 N·m). 3. Install a new steering wheel nut and tighten the
4. Connect the wiring harness to the horn button. nut 33 to 41 lbf·ft (45 to 55 N·m).
5. Align the logo on the horn button assembly so 4. Connect the wiring harness to the horn button.
that it is horizontal. Then press the horn button 5. Align the logo on the horn button assembly so
assembly into the steering wheel. that it is horizontal. Then press the horn button
assembly into the steering wheel.
M2 Built On or After June 5,
2006
Steering wheels on vehicles built on or after June 5,
2006 do not have threaded holes. The tapered fit
between the steering wheel and the column allows
the steering wheel to be removed by hand.
Removal
1. Put the front wheels in the straight ahead posi-
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
line for a short distance, stopping at the place
where the work will be done. Don’t turn the
steering wheel at any time during the removal
procedure.
2. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
3. Using a small screwdriver, carefully pry out the
horn button assembly and disconnect the two
wires.
Removal
1
1. Position the front tires straight ahead. If possible,
drive the vehicle in a straight line for a short dis-
tance, stopping at the spot where service work
will be done. Do not move the tires from the
straight-ahead position during removal or at any
time while the steering column is removed.
2. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
3. Disconnect the batteries at the negative termi-
nals or at the battery shutoff switch.
4. Remove the steering wheel. For instructions, see
Subject 100.
5. On a vehicle with a fixed steering column, re-
move the screws that attach the lower and upper 2
clamshell covers to the steering column and re-
move the covers. See Fig. 1.
10/30/2001 f461921
On a vehicle with an adjustable steering column,
remove the screws that attach the lower and up- 1. Upper Clamshell Cover
per clamshell covers to the steering column and 2. Lower Clamshell Cover
remove the covers. Remove the screws that at- Fig. 1, Fixed Steering Column Covers
tach the center and lower covers to the steering
column and remove the covers. See Fig. 2. Installation
6. Remove the self-canceling turn signal cam from
the steering column. NOTE: The steering column yoke must be in-
stalled in the same orientation that it was in
7. Remove the turn signal lever.
when it was removed.
7.1 Disconnect the horn wire from the turn
signal wiring harness. 1. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the steer-
ing column to the steering driveline yoke. Torque
7.2 Remove the capscrews that attach the the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
turn signal lever to the steering column.
Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
8. Make a timing mark on the steering driveline posed threads of the pinch bolt and to the nut.
yoke and the steering column spline.
2. Using capscrews, attach the steering column to
9. Remove and discard the pinch bolt and nut from the mounting bracket. Torque the capscrews 24
the steering driveline yoke. See Fig. 3. to 30 lbf·ft (32 to 40 N·m).
10. Remove the capscrews that attach the steering 3. Install the self-canceling turn signal cam on the
column to the mounting bracket. steering column.
11. Remove the steering column from the steering 4. Using capscrews, attach the turn signal lever to
driveline yoke. the steering column.
5. Attach the horn wire to the turn signal wiring har-
ness.
4
05/02/2003 f461968
1. Upper Clamshell Cover 3. Center Cover
2. Lower Clamshell Cover 4. Lower Cover
2 2
3
10/30/2001 4 f461920
1. Steering Column 3. Pinch Bolt
2. Capscrew 4. Nut
Fig. 3, Fixed Steering Column
Tilt Lock Adjustment 6. Test to verify proper steering column tilt function.
6.1 Fully depress the steering column release
1. Put the front wheels in the straight ahead posi- pedal. The tilt mechanism should unlock.
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
line for a short distance, stopping where the work 6.2 Release the pedal and let it revert to the
will take place. standard position. The tilt mechanism
should lock.
2. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires. 7. Readjust the cable slack if necessary.
3. Remove the screws that attach the upper and 8. Tighten the cable jam nut 25 to 30 lbf·in (282 to
lower clamshell covers to the steering column 340 N·cm).
and remove the covers. Remove the screws that 9. Attach the lower and center steering column cov-
attach the center and lower covers to the steer- ers to the steering column first, then install the
ing column and remove the covers. upper and lower clamshell covers.
4. Loosen the cable jam nut located on the top side
of the mounting bracket flange, see Fig. 1. Telescope Lock Adjustment
1. Put the front wheels in the straight ahead posi-
1 tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
2 line for a short distance, stopping where the work
will take place.
3
2. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
4
and chock the tires.
3. Remove the screws that attach the upper and
lower clamshell covers to the steering column
and remove the covers. Remove the screws that
attach the center and lower covers to the steer-
ing column and remove the covers.
4. Loosen the telescope lock bolt, see Fig. 2.
5
5. While holding the telescope lock rod in place,
rotate the telescope lock lever to adjust the tele-
scope lock. Counterclockwise rotation will tighten
04/20/2009 f462156 the telescope lock, while clockwise rotation will
1. Cable Adjuster loosen the telescope lock. The lever can be eas-
2. Cable Jam Nut ily rotated by moving the steering column release
3. Mounting Bracket Flange pedal up or down.
4. Cable Slack
5. Steering Column Release Pedal NOTE: Rotating the lever too much can prevent
the telescope lock mechanism from unlocking
Fig. 1, Steering Column Tilt Lock Adjustment with the steering column release pedal de-
pressed, or locking when the steering column
5. Use the cable adjuster to remove all slack from release pedal is released.
the steering column release pedal.
6. Continue holding the telescope lock rod in place
NOTE: Removing too much cable slack can pre- and tighten the lock bolt.
vent the tilt lock mechanism from locking, re-
gardless of the steering column release pedal 7. Test to verify proper steering column telescope
function.
position. Adding too much cable slack can pre-
vent the tilt lock mechanism from unlocking
when the pedal is fully depressed.
6
5
3 4
04/22/2009 f462157
Principles of Operation
When the driver turns the steering wheel, that force
travels from the steering wheel to the steering gear
input shaft. A torsion bar, pinned at one end to the
input shaft and at the other end to the worm shaft,
turns with the input shaft and exerts a rotational force
on the worm shaft. In response to the force exerted
by the torsion bar, the worm shaft moves the rack
piston forward or backward in the gear housing by
means of a series of recirculating balls in the spiral
channels of the worm shaft. As the rack piston slides
back and forth, it turns the sector shaft. The sector
shaft swings the pitman arm, which pulls or pushes
the drag link. The drag link moves the axle steering
arm, steering the vehicle.
The rack piston’s axial movement is resisted by its
engagement to the sector shaft, which is linked to
the steered wheels. Because of this resistance, the
torsion bar activates the control valve, which directs
pressurized fluid to the upper or lower cylinder cavity
(depending on the direction of turn). The pressurized
fluid assists in moving the rack piston up or down in
the cylinder bore.
Most THP and PCF steering gears are equipped with
two poppet (unloading) valves, one at each end of
the rack piston. As the front wheels reach the axle
stop—the farthest the wheels can turn in either
2 9 10
8
1 3
4 11
5 14
15
6
7
12 17
13
19
16 21
27 22
26 31 18
28 29 30 20
24
25
23
33
32
26
27 49
48
47
45
42
51
50
41 46
34
44
43
35 42
40
38 39
36 6
10/21/2003 37 7 f461925
1. Valve Housing Capscrew 19. O-Ring 35. Dirt and Water Seal
2. Dirt and Water Seal 20. Bearing Adjuster 36. Grease Fitting
3. Retaining Ring 21. Adjuster Locknut 37. Automatic Bleed Plug
4. Input Shaft Seal 22. O-Ring 38. Poppet Adjusting Screw
5. Valve Housing 23. Seal Ring 39. Poppet Adjusting Screw Nut
6. Auxiliary Port O-Ring (2) 24. Push Tube 40. Poppet Fixed Stop Screw
7. Auxiliary Port Plug (2) 25. Poppet Spring 41. Roller Bearing
8. Relief Valve 26. Poppet 42. Output Seal
9. O-Ring 27. Poppet Seat and Sleeve 43. Sector Shaft Assembly
10. Relief Valve Cap Assembly 44. Sector Shaft Adjusting Screw
11. Valve Housing O-Ring 28. Rack Piston 45. Washer
12. Bearing Assembly 29. Ball 46. Roller Bearing
13. O-Ring 30. Ball Return Guide 47. Side Cover O-Ring
14. Seal Ring 31. Cap Seal 48. Side Cover Assembly
15. Input Shaft Assembly 32. Ball Return Guide Cap 49. Vent Plug, Side Cover
16. Thrust Bearing 33. Torx® Capscrew 50. Adjusting Screw Jam Nut
17. Thrust Washer 34. Gear Housing 51. Capscrew
18. Seal Ring
Removal Installation
1. Verify that the axle stops are adjusted correctly. 1. Mount the steering gear on the frame rail and
Ensuring correct axle stop adjustment will elimi- install the mounting fasteners. Tighten the fasten-
nate the possibility of resetting steering gear ers 342 to 434 lbf·ft (464 to 588 N·m).
poppet valves after the gear is installed. See 2. Center the steering gear so that the timing mark
Group 33 for instructions.
on the sector shaft is aligned with the timing
2. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi- mark on the steering gear. Keep the steering
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight gear centered as the installation continues.
line for a short distance, stopping where the work 3. Connect the steering driveline to the steering
is to be done.
gear input shaft.
3. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires. 3.1 Align the hole in the steering driveline
lower end yoke with the indentation on the
4. Disconnect the batteries and open the hood. input shaft.
5. Clean all fittings and hose connections on the 3.2 Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the
steering gear until they are free of dirt. driveline lower end yoke to the input shaft.
6. Drain the fluid from the power steering system. Tighten the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47
Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the steering N·m).
gear, marking the lines for later reference. Plug 3.3 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to
the lines and the fittings to keep out dirt. the exposed bolt threads and the nut to
7. Remove the pitman arm. Refer to Section 46.08 indicate the fasteners have been properly
for instructions. tightened.
8. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer- 4. Install the pitman arm. Refer to Section 46.08
ing gear input shaft. for instructions.
8.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and 5. If the hydraulic line fittings were removed, attach
nut from the steering driveline lower end them to the steering gear. Tighten the fittings 37
yoke. lbf·ft (50 N·m). Tighten the jam nut on the pres-
sure line fitting to a maximum 41 lbf·ft (56 N·m).
NOTICE 6. Remove the plugs from the hydraulic lines. Con-
nect the hydraulic lines to the steering gear.
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or Tighten the nut on each fitting finger tight, then
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer- use a wrench to tighten the nut until there is firm
ing gear can result. resistance. Tighten one-sixth turn more.
8.2 Remove the end yoke from the input 7. Connect the batteries.
shaft. 8. Fill and bleed the steering system. For instruc-
tions, refer to Subject 110.
WARNING 9. Close the hood and perform the post-service
The steering gear is heavy. Use caution when re- checks in Subject 150.
moving, lifting, or carrying the steering gear. Fail-
ure to do so could cause personal injury.
9. Remove the fasteners that secure the steering
gear to the frame rail. Remove the steering gear.
Replacement
NOTE: The power steering pump is used in this
procedure to force out the input shaft seal. To 1
use this procedure, the power steering pump
should have a minimum of 1500 psi (10 342
kPa) available.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the return line from the steering gear
and plug the line. See Fig. 1. Cap the return port
of the steering gear with a high pressure fitting. 03/10/94 f460575a
1. Retaining Ring
01/06/99 f460573b
NOTICE
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or 03/10/94 f460576a
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer- 1. Pinch Bolt 2. Pinch Bolt Nut
ing gear can result.
3. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer- Fig. 3, Pinch Bolt Installation
ing gear input shaft. 8. Tie or wrap a shop towel around the input shaft
4. Remove the dirt and water seal from the steering and place a drain pan under the steering gear to
gear. Save this seal to determine the correct size catch the oil. See Fig. 4.
of the new seal.
5. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from WARNING
around the input shaft.
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
6. Using a screwdriver inserted into the notch proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
formed in the end of the retaining ring, remove fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
the retaining ring. See Fig. 2. Be careful not to could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
scratch the bore with the screwdriver. could result in loss of power steering assist and
WARNING
Do not use a socket to install the input shaft
seal. You will not be able to control the seal in-
stallation depth with a socket and this could lead
to leaks. Leaks could result in loss of steering
assist and spillage on the roadway, which could
result in personal injury or property damage.
14. Install a new input shaft seal.
03/10/94 f460577a 14.1 Using Exxon Polyrex® EP2 grease
A. Cover the input shaft area. (045422), lubricate the inside diameter of
the new input shaft seal and install it on
Fig. 4, Shop Towel Covering the Input Shaft the input shaft.
14.2 Using a hammer and seal driver (J37073),
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
tap the driver until the shoulder of the
sonal injury or property damage.
driver is square against the valve housing.
9. If needed, fill the power steering reservoir with See Fig. 6. Remove any seal material that
automatic transmission fluid. may have sheared off in the seal bore or
10. With the vehicle in neutral, momentarily turn the retaining ring groove.
starter. If the engine starts, quickly turn it off.
This should force out the input shaft seal.
11. Remove the shop towel, pinch bolt, and input
yoke. Remove the input shaft seal. See Fig. 5. 1
03/10/94 f460579a
A
03/10/94 f460580a
18. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the steer-
ing driveline to the input shaft. Tighten the nut 30
to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
19. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
posed bolt threads and the nut to indicate the
fasteners have been properly tightened.
20. Connect the return line to the steering gear re-
turn port.
21. Bleed the air from the system. For instructions,
see Subject 110.
Adjustment
NOTE: If the steering gear is installed on the
frame rail, sector shaft adjustment can only be
completed if the adjusting screw jam nut (lo-
cated on the side cover) is accessible.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear
tires.
2. With the engine on, turn the steering wheel until
the timing mark on the sector shaft lines up with
the timing mark on the housing. The sector shaft
is now at its center of travel. Shut down the en-
gine.
3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut that attach 11/19/2001 f461926
the drag link to the pitman arm. Remove the
drag link from the pitman arm. Fig. 1, Adjusting the Sector Shaft
IMPORTANT: To avoid resetting the poppets, do • 3/4–16: 90 to 170 lbf·ft (122 to 230 N·m)
not turn the input shaft more than 1-1/2 turns • 7/8–14: 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 407 N·m)
from the center-of-travel position while the drag
link is disconnected.
WARNING
4. From the center-of-travel position, grasp the pit-
man arm at the lower end of the arm and gently Failure to install and lock a new cotter pin in the
try to move the arm back and forth. If the pitman ball stud and nut could result in disengagement
arm is loose or lash (free play) is detected, the of the parts and loss of steering control, which
sector shaft is out of adjustment. could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
5. Loosen the adjusting screw jam nut.
10. Continue to tighten the castle nut until a slot on
6. If no lash was detected in step 4, use a screw-
the nut aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Do
driver to turn the sector shaft adjusting screw
not reverse the tightening direction of the nut
counterclockwise until you feel lash at the sector
when locating the cotter pin hole. Install a new
shaft. See Fig. 1.
cotter pin in the ball stud and nut, then lock the
IMPORTANT: Do not use more than 10 lbf·ft (14 cotter pin in place.
N·m) of force when tightening the adjusting
screw. NOTICE
7. Slowly turn the shaft adjusting screw clockwise Do not use a power grease gun to add grease to
until you feel no lash at the sector shaft. From the sector shaft bearing. Doing so could damage
this position, turn the screw clockwise 1/8 to 3/16 the high-pressure seal and contaminate the hy-
of a turn more. Hold the adjusting screw in place draulic fluid.
and tighten the jam nut 43 lbf·ft (58 N·m).
11. Using only a hand-operated grease gun, add
8. Turn the steering wheel 1/4 of a turn each side grease to the sector shaft bearing through the
of center then back to center and check the pit- grease fitting in the housing until grease begins
man arm for lash. There should be no lash. If to extrude past the dirt and water seal.
lash is detected, loosen the jam nut and repeat
the previous step as well as this step.
9. Using a castle nut, attach the drag link to the
pitman arm. Tighten the castle nut using the ap-
propriate torque value:
Resetting the Poppet Valves 8.1 Start the engine and let it idle.
8.2 Note which sector shaft timing mark is
1. Check that the axle stops are adjusted properly. nearest the housing piston bore.
See Group 33 for instructions.
2. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to idle for NOTICE
5 to 10 minutes to warm the hydraulic fluid.
Do not hold the steering wheel at full turn for
3. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, more than 10 seconds at a time. The heat buildup
and chock the rear tires. at pump relief pressure may damage compo-
4. Hold the poppet screw with a wrench and turn nents.
the sealing nut back toward the wrench until the 8.3 Turn the steering wheel in the direction
nut is flush with the base of the hex area of the that makes this timing mark move toward
poppet screw. the adjusting screw just installed. Turn the
5. Make sure that the engine is off and the wheels wheel in this direction until axle stop con-
are in the straight-ahead position. tact is made.
8.4 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to
NOTICE 30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter
steering wheel.
Make sure the drive end of the adjusting screw is
not below the face of the nut. If the drive end of 9. Set the upper poppet.
the adjusting screw is below the face of the nut, 9.1 Turn the steering wheel in the opposite
the poppet seat flange will break when the upper direction (the timing mark will move away
poppet is prepared for setting. from the adjusting screw) until the other
6. Using a 7/32-inch Allen wrench, turn the adjust- axle stop is contacted.
ing screw and nut assembly (without turning the
9.2 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to
nut on the screw) into the housing until the nut is
30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter
firmly against the housing. Tighten the nut
steering wheel.
against the housing. See Fig. 1.
9.3 Release the steering wheel and shut off
the engine.
10. Loosen the sealing nut and back out the adjust-
ing screw until the adjusting screw is one inch
(2.5 cm) past the nut. See Fig. 2. Tighten the nut
against the housing.
11. Set the lower poppet.
11.1 Start the engine and let it idle.
11.2 Turn the steering wheel in the original di-
rection (the timing mark will move toward
the adjusting screw) until axle stop contact
is made.
03/09/94 f460583a
11.3 Hold the steering wheel in this position
Fig. 1, Adjusting Screw and Nut Assembly with up to 30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch
diameter steering wheel for 10 seconds,
7. Place a jack under the center of the front axle then release. Repeat this hold-and-release
and jack up the front of the vehicle so the steer process as many times as necessary
axle tires are off the ground. while completing the next step.
8. Push the upper poppet out to prepare it for set- 12. Position the adjusting screw.
ting.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
13. The poppets have now been completely reset.
Check the power steering reservoir. The power
steering fluid level should be between the MIN
02/28/94 f460585a COLD mark and the middle mark just above it. If
needed, add fluid.
Fig. 2, Adjusting Screw Position 14. Lower the vehicle.
12.1 With the steering wheel held tightly at full
turn, loosen the nut and hold it in place
with a wrench.
12.2 Using an Allen wrench and finger pressure
only, turn the adjusting screw clockwise
until the Allen wrench stops. Do not at-
tempt to turn the adjusting screw in any
farther. Pause the turning-in process each
time the driver releases the steering
wheel. Continue turning only while the
steering wheel is held at full turn.
12.3 Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns
and tighten the nut 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
WARNING
If the adjusting screw protrudes more than 1-1/16
inches (27 mm) from the sealing nut, the screw
could fall out of the steering gear, resulting in
loss of power steering. This could cause an acci-
dent resulting in personal injury or property dam-
age.
IMPORTANT: Once the poppet adjusting
screw and sealing nut are in place, and the
poppet valves have been manually adjusted,
the adjustment procedure must be repeated
if steering travel is either increased or de-
creased in the future.
Post-Service Checks
After power steering components have been worked
on and before the vehicle is placed into service, the
following items must be checked.
10° 10°
WARNING
Failure to check the following items could result 1 2
in damage to the power steering system. This
could cause loss of steering assist and spillage
on the roadway, which could cause personal in- 10° 10°
jury or property damage.
1. Operate the engine at idle while turning the
steering wheel through several full-left and full- 05/10/2007 f462075
right turns. With the engine running and the
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
power steering system at operating temperature,
turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Centered
while checking the power steering reservoir for
frothing or a change in the fluid level (signs that
air is trapped in the system).
If air is present, inspect the system for leaking
hoses or loose fittings. Replace the hoses or
tighten the fittings as necessary. Bleed the air
from the system. Refer to Subject 110 for in-
structions.
2. With the engine turned off and warm, check the
power steering reservoir fluid level. If needed,
add power steering fluid.
3. At full-left and full-right turns, be sure the axle
stops on the rear side of the spindle are set so
there is at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) of clearance
between the tires and any fixed components that
are attached to the vehicle. Clearance between
moving components should be at least 3/4 inch
(19 mm). If clearance is less than the above,
reset the axle stops.
4. Check that the poppets are set correctly. If
needed, adjust them. For instructions, refer to
Subject 140.
5. Test drive the vehicle. Check the steering wheel
spoke position. If, during straight-ahead driving
on a level road, the steering wheel spokes are
not within ±10 degrees of the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, remove the steering wheel and
reposition it. See Fig. 1.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
THP and PCF power steering gears use automatic
transmission fluid that meets Dexron II, Dexron III,
Mercon, or ATF +4™ specifications.
Exxon Polyrex® EP2 Grease (045422) is approved
for use on steering gear components.
Special tools can be ordered from:
SPX Kent-Moore
28635 Mound Road
Warren, Michigan 48092-3499
1-800-328-6657
General Information
The ZF FN4 power steering pump supplies power
steering fluid for the operation of the power steering
gear. The pump is a sliding-vane pump with an inter-
nal flow control and pressure relief valve. The pri-
mary parts of the pump include the input shaft, rotor,
vanes, and cam ring; all contained in a lightweight
alloy housing. The oval-shaped cam ring surrounds
the cylindrical rotor, creating two pumping pockets
positioned 180 degrees from each other. The position
of the pumping pockets balances the internal forces
within the pump. Flow rate and maximum pressure
are not adjustable.
Principles of Operation
As the input shaft turns the rotor inside the cam ring,
the centrifugal force pushes ten vanes out toward the
surface of the cam ring. The pumping element has
two pumping pockets opposed 180 degrees from
each other that balance the internal forces using the
pressure generated by the pumping action. Fluid en-
tering via the inlet port is forced by the vanes
through the pumping pockets in the cam ring, and
out through the outlet port, to the steering gear. Once
through the steering gear, the fluid returns to the
power steering reservoir, then back to the power
steering pump.
The pump outputs a fixed volume for each revolution
of the input shaft. This volume is determined by the
internal contour of the cam ring.
Principles of Operation
When the driver turns the steering wheel, that force
travels from the steering wheel to the steering gear
input shaft. A torsion bar, pinned at one end to the
input shaft and at the other end to the worm shaft,
turns with the input shaft and exerts a rotational force
on the worm shaft. In response to the force exerted
by the torsion bar, the worm shaft moves the rack
piston forward or backward in the gear housing by
means of a series of recirculating balls in the spiral
channels of the worm shaft. As the rack piston slides
back and forth, it turns the sector shaft. The sector
shaft swings the pitman arm, which pulls or pushes
the drag link. The drag link moves the axle steering
arm, steering the vehicle.
The rack piston’s axial movement is resisted by its
engagement to the sector shaft, which is linked to
the steered wheels. Because of this resistance, the
torsion bar activates the control valve, which directs
pressurized fluid to the upper or lower cylinder cavity
(depending on the direction of turn). The pressurized
fluid assists in moving the rack piston up or down in
the cylinder bore.
Most TAS steering gears are equipped with two pop-
pet (unloading) valves, one at each end of the rack
piston. As the front wheels reach the axle stop—the
farthest the wheels can turn in either direction—one
58
57
56
47 52 55
48 51
50
50 53 54
49
46
45
44
27
41 28
43
42 30
41
40 31 28
39 33
38 34 29
35
36 32 27
37 26
25
24
23 22
21 20
18
19 15
13 10
18 9
17 8
16
14
12
11
7
6 4
5 3
2
1
05/15/2008 f462082
1. Bolts, Valve Housing 21. Seal Ring 40. Dirt and Water Seal, Trunnion
2. Dirt and Water Seal 22. O-Ring 41. Retaining Ring
3. Retaining Ring 23. Bearing Adjuster 42. Dirt Seal
4. Input Shaft Seal 24. Adjuster Locknut 43. Roller Bearing
5. Auxiliary Port Plug 25. Seal Ring, Rack Piston 44. Gear Housing
6. O-Ring, Auxiliary Port Plug 26. O-Ring, Backup 45. Washer, Stopscrew
7. Valve Housing 27. Poppet Adjuster Seat and 46. Fixed Stop Screw, Poppet
8. Relief Valve Sleeve Assembly 47. Service Sealing Jam Nut
9. O-Ring, Relief Valve 28. Poppet 48. Service Poppet Adjusting Screw
10. Relief Valve Cap 29. Push Tube 49. Washer, Spacer
11. Seal Ring, Large 30. Spacer Rod 50. Output Seal
12. Seal Ring, Small 31. Poppet Spring 51. Sector Shaft
13. Seal Ring 32. Rack Piston 52. Adjusting Screw, Shaft
14. O-Ring 33. Steel Balls 53. Retainer, Adjusting Screw
15. Seal Ring 34. Ball Return Guide Halves 54. Gasket, Side Cover
16. O-Ring, Valve Housing 35. Seal, Ball Return Guide Cap 55. Side Cover and Bushing/Bearing
17. Thrust Washer, Thick 36. Ball Return Guide Cap Assembly
18. Roller Thrust Bearing 37. Torx® Screws 56. Vent Plug, Side Cover
19. Input Shaft/Valve/Worm 38. Plug, Auto-Bleed 57. Jam Nut
Assembly 39. Grease Fitting 58. Special Bolts, Side Cover
20. Thrust Washer, Thin
10/08/2003 f461979
05/28/2008 f462143
a turn more. Hold the adjusting screw in place 4. Hold the poppet screw with a wrench and turn
and tighten the jam nut 43 lbf·ft (58 N·m). the sealing nut back toward the wrench until the
nut is flush with the base of the hex area of the
8. Turn the steering wheel 1/4 of a turn to each
poppet screw.
side of center and recheck the pitman arm for
lash. If lash is detected, adjust the sector shaft 5. Make sure that the engine is off and the wheels
again. are in the straight-ahead position.
9. Attach the drag link to the pitman arm. See Sec-
tion 46.08 for instructions. NOTICE
Make sure the drive end of the adjusting screw is
WARNING not below the face of the nut. If the drive end of
the adjusting screw is below the face of the nut,
Failure to install and lock a new cotter pin in the
the poppet seat flange will break when the upper
ball stud and nut could result in disengagement
poppet is prepared for setting.
of the parts and loss of steering control, which
could result in personal injury or property dam- 6. Using a 7/32-inch Allen wrench, turn the adjust-
age. ing screw and nut assembly (without turning the
nut on the screw) into the housing until the nut is
10. Continue to tighten the castle nut until a slot on
firmly against the housing. Tighten the nut
the nut aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Do
against the housing. See Fig. 4.
not reverse the tightening direction of the nut
when locating the cotter pin hole. Install a new
cotter pin in the ball stud and nut, then lock the
cotter pin in place.
NOTICE
Do not use a power grease gun to add grease to
the sector shaft bearing. Doing so could damage
the high-pressure seal and contaminate the hy-
draulic fluid.
11. Using only a hand-operated grease gun, add
grease to the sector shaft bearing through the
grease fitting in the housing until grease begins
to extrude past the dirt and water seal. 03/09/94 f460583a
NOTICE
Do not hold the steering wheel at full turn for
02/28/94 f460585a
more than 10 seconds at a time. The heat buildup
at pump relief pressure may damage compo- Fig. 5, Adjusting Screw Position
nents.
diameter steering wheel for 10 seconds,
9.3 Turn the steering wheel in the direction
then release. Repeat this hold-and-release
that makes this timing mark move toward
process as many times as necessary
the adjusting screw just installed. Turn the
while completing the next step.
wheel in this direction until axle stop con-
tact is made. 13. Position the adjusting screw.
9.4 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to 13.1 With the steering wheel held tightly at full
40 lbf (178 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter turn, loosen the nut and hold it in place
steering wheel. with a wrench.
10. Set the upper poppet. IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to turn the ad-
10.1 Turn the steering wheel in the opposite justing screw in any farther. Pause the
direction (the timing mark will move away turning-in process each time the driver re-
from the adjusting screw) until the other leases the steering wheel. Continue turning
axle stop is contacted. only while the steering wheel is held at full
turn.
10.2 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to
40 lbf (178 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter 13.2 Using an Allen wrench and finger pressure
steering wheel. only, turn the adjusting screw clockwise
until the Allen wrench stops.
10.3 Release the steering wheel and shut off
the engine.
11. Loosen the sealing nut and back out the adjust-
WARNING
ing screw until the adjusting screw is 1 inch (2.5 If the adjusting screw protrudes more than 1-1/16
cm) past the nut. See Fig. 5. Tighten the nut inches (27 mm) from the sealing nut, the screw
against the housing. could fall out of the steering gear, resulting in
12. Set the lower poppet. loss of power steering. This could cause an acci-
dent resulting in personal injury or property dam-
12.1 Start the engine and let it idle. age.
12.2 Turn the steering wheel in the original di- 13.3 Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns
rection (the timing mark will move toward and tighten the nut 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
the adjusting screw) until axle stop contact
is made.
12.3 Hold the steering wheel in this position
with up to 40 lbf (178 N) pull on a 20-inch
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
14. The poppets have now been completely reset.
Check the power steering reservoir. If needed,
add fluid.
15. Lower the vehicle.
Removal Installation
1. Verify correct axle stop adjustment. Ensuring cor- 1. Install the steering gear and fasteners as shown
rect axle stop adjustment now will eliminate the in Fig. 1. Tighten the fasteners 278 to 352 lbf·ft
need to reset the steering gear poppet valves (377 to 477 N·m).
after the gear is installed. For instructions, refer 2. Center the steering gear so that the timing mark
to Group 33.
on the sector shaft is aligned with the timing
2. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi- mark on the steering gear housing. See Fig. 2.
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight Keep the steering gear centered as the installa-
line for a short distance, stopping where the work tion continues.
is to be done.
3. Connect the steering driveline to the steering
3. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, gear input shaft.
and chock the tires.
3.1 Clean the steering gear input shaft and
4. Remove the left bumper extension, if equipped. the inside of the driveline yoke.
5. Clean all fittings and hose connections on the 3.2 Apply a thin film of grease to the yoke
steering gear until they are free of dirt. spline.
6. Drain the fluid from the power steering system. 3.3 Slide the yoke on the input shaft and in-
Disconnect all hydraulic lines from the gear, stall a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the
marking the lines for later reference. Seal the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
lines and the fittings to keep out dirt.
3.4 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to
7. Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering the exposed bolt threads and the nut to
gear sector shaft. See Section 46.08 for instruc- indicate the fasteners have been properly
tions. tightened.
8. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer-
ing gear input shaft. WARNING
8.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and
Never leave a chisel wedged in the pitman arm
nut from the steering driveline lower end
slot. When using a chisel to spread the slot in
yoke.
the pitman arm, maintain a firm grip on the chisel
at all times. Otherwise the chisel may fly loose,
NOTICE which could cause an injury.
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or 4. Install the pitman arm. See Section 46.08 for
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer- instructions.
ing gear can result. 5. If they were removed, attach the hydraulic line
8.2 Remove the lower end yoke from the input fittings to the steering gear. Tighten the fittings
shaft. 38 lbf·ft (52 N·m). Tighten the pressure line fitting
jam nut 41 lbf·ft (56 N·m).
WARNING 6. Remove the plugs from the hydraulic lines. Con-
nect the lines to the steering gear as previously
The steering gear is heavy. Use caution when re- marked. Tighten the nut on each fitting finger
moving, lifting, or carrying the steering gear. Fail- tight. Then, use a wrench to tighten the nut until
ure to do so could cause personal injury. there is firm resistance. Tighten 1/6 of a turn
9. Remove the fasteners that attach the steering more.
gear to the frame rail. Remove the steering gear. 7. Connect the batteries.
8. Fill and bleed the steering system.
4
1
2
2
2 2
3 3
10/08/2003 f461980
A
B
12/07/2001 f461929
A. Steering gear with automatic bleed plug. Do not
remove the bleed plug.
B. Steering gear with manual bleed plug.
Replacement 4. Remove the dirt and water seal from the steering
gear. Save this seal to determine the correct size
of the new seal.
NOTE: The power steering pump is used in this
procedure to force out the input shaft seal. To 5. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from
use this procedure, the power steering pump around the input shaft.
should have a minimum of 1500 psi (10 342 6. Using a screwdriver inserted into the notch
kPa) available. formed in the end of the retaining ring, remove
the retaining ring. See Fig. 2. Be careful not to
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
scratch the bore with the screwdriver.
and chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the return line from the steering gear
and plug the line. See Fig. 1. Cap the return port
of the gear with a high-pressure fitting.
1
03/10/94 f460575a
1. Retaining Ring
A. Cap the return line and the return port. 7. Slip the driveline lower end yoke back on the
input shaft, then insert but do not tighten the
Fig. 1, Disconnected Return Line pinch bolt. See Fig. 3.
1
NOTICE
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer-
ing gear can result.
3. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer-
ing gear input shaft.
3.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and 2
nut from the steering driveline lower end
yoke.
IMPORTANT: Do not turn the steering gear
input shaft when removing the lower end 03/10/94 f460576a
yoke. 1. Pinch Bolt 2. Pinch Bolt Nut
3.2 Remove the lower end yoke from the input Fig. 3, Pinch Bolt Installation
shaft. Push the driveline shaft into the
driveline tube as you remove the lower
end yoke.
03/10/94 f460578a
A
B
12/07/2001 f461929
A. Steering gear with automatic bleed plug. Do not
remove the bleed plug.
B. Steering gear with manual bleed plug.
Post-Service Checks the steering wheel and install it in the correct po-
sition. See Fig. 1.
After power steering components have been worked
on and before the vehicle is placed into service, the
following items must be checked.
WARNING
Failure to check the following items could result
10° 10°
in damage to the power steering system. This
could cause loss of steering assist and spillage
1 2
on the roadway, which could cause personal in-
jury or property damage.
1. Operate the engine at low idle while turning the 10° 10°
steering wheel through several full-left and full-
right turns. With the engine running and the
power steering system at operating temperature,
turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop 05/10/2007 f462075
while checking the power steering reservoir for 1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
frothing or a change in the fluid level (signs that
air is trapped in the system). Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Centered
If air is present, inspect the system for leaking
hoses or loose fittings. Replace the hoses or
tighten the fittings as necessary. Bleed the air
from the system.
2. With the engine turned off and warm, check the
power steering reservoir fluid level. If needed,
add power steering fluid.
3. At full-left and full-right wheel cuts, be sure the
axle stops (on the rear-side of the spindle) are
set so there is at least 1/2-inch (13-mm) clear-
ance between the tires and any fixed compo-
nents that are attached to the vehicle. Clearance
between moving components should be 3/4 of an
inch (19 mm). If clearance is less than this, reset
the axle stops.
4. Check that the poppets are set correctly. If nec-
essary, adjust them. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
5. If there are still problems with the power steering
system, perform the troubleshooting procedures
in Section 46.09. Otherwise, go to the next step.
6. Test drive the vehicle and check the steering
wheel spoke position. With the front tires pointing
straight ahead, check the position of the steering
wheel spokes. They must be pointing within ±10
degrees of the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions
on a four-spoke steering wheel. If not, remove
1 4
G1
P2 2 B1 B2
P1 G2 3 R1 R2
1 4
G1
P2 2
P1
G2 R1 R2
B
08/22/94 f460611a
A. Vehicles with Hydraulic Brakes B. Vehicles with Air Brakes
1. Steering Pump 3. Brake Booster
2. Steering Gear 4. Reservoir
Removal
A
1. Identify the timing marks on the pitman arm and
the steering gear sector shaft.
2. Remove the pinch bolt and nut that attach the
pitman arm to the steering gear.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut that
attaches the pitman arm to the drag link. Re-
move the castle nut.
4. Remove the pitman arm.
Installation
WARNING 1 2
1. Install the pitman arm on the steering gear align- 1. Pitman Arm 3. Castle Nut
ing the timing marks on the pitman arm with the 2. Drag Link
timing marks on the sector shaft. See Fig. 1.
Fig. 1, Pitman Arm
The pitman arm may not fit over the splines on
the sector shaft without spreading the slot in the 4. Install a new cotter pin through the ball stud and
pitman arm. To wedge the slot open, clamp the the castle nut and lock the cotter pin in place.
pitman arm in a vise with the slot at the top. Use 5. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
a ball peen hammer to drive a chisel into the posed bolt threads and the nut to indicate the
slot. Hold the chisel in place, remove the pitman fasteners have been properly tightened.
arm from the vise, and install the pitman arm on
the sector shaft. Remove the chisel from the slot. 6. Wipe the grease fittings clean at both ball stud
sockets. Using a pressure gun, fill the sockets
2. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the pit- with chassis grease.
man arm to the steering gear. Torque the nut 130
to 155 lbf·ft (177 to 211 N·m).
WARNING
Failure to install and lock a new cotter pin in the
ball stud and nut could result in disengagement
of the parts and loss of steering control, which
could result in serious personal injury or prop-
erty damage.
3. Using a castle nut, attach the drag link to the
pitman arm. Torque the castle nut 90 to 170 lbf·ft
(122 to 230 N·m). If necessary, continue tighten-
ing the castle nut until a slot on the nut aligns
with a hole in the ball stud. Do not back off the
nut.
1.3 Check that the rear tires are inflated to the wheel and check for looseness or binding.
correct pressure, and the tire pressure is Make sure all components are free to
equal on both sides. Correct the pressure move, but are not excessively loose.
if needed.
4.3 Check the steering driveline U-joints for
1.4 Check that the tire sizes are correctly looseness or binding. Lubricate them if
matched, and whether duplex or oversized needed.
tires (that were not originally specified for
the vehicle) have been installed. 4.4 Check the sector shaft adjustment.
• With the vehicle on the ground, the
Extra tire width causes increased steering
engine idling, and the front tires
effort due to extra friction with the road
pointed straight ahead, turn the
surface. If the axle stops were turned out
steering wheel until slight motion is
to reduce wheel cut due to a change in
observed at the front wheels.
tires, the power steering gear poppets
may need to be adjusted. • Align a reference mark on the steer-
ing wheel to a rule, then, with the
1.5 Communicate with the driver or operator engine running, slowly turn the
to determine whether the vehicle is oper- steering wheel in the opposite direc-
ated at or over the rated load. tion until motion is again detected at
Increased load causes greater steering the wheels.
effort. Make sure the vehicle is being op- • Measure the lash (free play) at the
erated within rated capacities. rim of the steering wheel.
2. Check fifth wheel lubrication and condition. Excessive lash exists if steering
A dry fifth wheel plate makes it difficult to change wheel movement exceeds 2-1/2
direction. Check the plate surface for burrs, inches (64 mm) with a 20-inch (508-
gouges, and irregularities. mm) steering wheel, or 2-1/4 inches
(57 mm) with an 18-inch (457-mm)
3. Check vehicle alignment and wheel bearing ad- steering wheel.
justment.
4.5 Check that the front wheels self-return
3.1 Check the vehicle service history for the without binding.
last known alignment, and inspect tire
wear for indications that an alignment • With the engine off, chock the rear-
needs to be completed. most tires and place the front tires
on radius plates (turntables).
3.2 Check front axle caster and camber mea-
surements. • Disconnect the drag link from the
steering arm.
3.3 Ensure wheel bearings and rear axle are
in good condition, and that toe is set cor- • By hand, pull one tire to the axle
rectly. stop and release. The tire should
self-return to almost straight ahead.
3.4 Ensure the rear axle is properly aligned.
• Repeat with the opposite tire.
4. Check for loose and binding components. Check
whether any steering components need mainte- If a tire does not return to near
nance or adjustment. straight ahead, check for binding or
lack of lubrication in the steering
4.1 Check for proper lubrication of the drag axle kingpin bushings or tie rod link-
link, tie rods, and knuckle pins. Apply lu- age.
brication as needed.
• Connect the drag link and tighten
4.2 Check the COE steering column, if the castle nut, then install a new
equipped. Chock the rearmost tires. With cotter pin.
the engine shut down, turn the steering
1 3
2
1 3
2
B
05/19/2011 f462203
A. Vehicles With Air Brakes B. Vehicles With Hydraulic Brakes
1. Steering Pump 3. Reservoir
2. Steering Gear 4. Brake Booster
gear input and output lines to the done with the steering gear and
gear and continue with this substep. brake booster, if equipped.
• If the vehicle is equipped with hy- If the drop in system pressure from
draulic brakes, bypass the brake the value found in substep 5.3 is
booster by disconnecting the greater than 12 psi (83 kPa) for any
booster input and output lines and one line, replace the line and test
coupling them together. total system back pressure again.
If the drop in system pressure from 6. Check steering pump performance. Power steer-
the value found in substep 5.3 is ing fluid temperature should be approximately
greater than 40 psi (276 kPa), the 180°F (82°C) to best replicate fluid temperatures
brake booster has excessive restric- under normal driving conditions.
tion. If the drop in pressure is less
than 40 psi (276 kPa), reconnect the If the system fails the tests in the following sub-
steps, replace the pressure relief valve (PRV)
booster input and output lines and
and complete the tests in the substeps below
continue with this substep.
again. If the system fails again, replace the
• Test each hydraulic line in the power pump.
steering system individually by by-
passing them one at a time, as was
1 3 4
2
05/19/2011 f462204
1. Steering Pump 3. Low Pressure Gauge
2. Steering Gear 4. Reservoir
Install the PSSA between the steering pump and 6.2 Check the pump relief pressure.
the gear for the following substeps. See the fol-
• Slowly close the load valve. When
lowing heading, Power Steering System Ana-
the valve is completely closed, read
lyzer Setup, for instructions on PSSA installa-
the pressure gauge, then open the
tion.
valve.
• If the pump relief pressure does not
NOTICE exceed the relief pressure in
Do not leave the load valve closed for longer Table 2 or Table 3, refer to the
than five seconds during the following test. pump manufacturer’s service litera-
Doing so could damage the power steering sys- ture to verify the exact relief pres-
tem. sure for the pump.
6.1 Check for erratic pump response. • If the pump relief pressure does not
exceed the relief pressure in
• Slowly close the load valve and Table 2, Table 3, or the pump
watch the pressure and flow read- manufacturer’s specifications, re-
ings as the valve closes, then open place the PRV or pump, as required.
the valve immediately.
• If the pump relief pressure exceeds
• If the pressure rises rapidly or ap- the relief pressure in Table 2 or
pears uncontrolled, open the load Table 3, it is acceptable. Go to the
valve immediately. next substep.
• If the response was erratic, replace 6.3 Test the pump relief valve reaction at idle.
the PRV or pump, as required. If the
response was smooth and con- • Run the engine at idle and note the
trolled, go to the next substep. flow rate with the load valve open.
Table 2, Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure at Engine Idle
Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure for High-Pressure Gears at Engine Idle
Flow at 1500 Flow at 1000 Flow at 2300 psi Typical Relief
Power Steering Gear rpm, No Load: psi (6900 kPa): (15 860 kPa): Pressure:
gpm (L/min) gpm (L/min) gpm (L/min) psi (kPa)
Sheppard HD94 2.6 (9.8) 1.8 (6.8)
TRW THP45 3.7 (14.0) 2.2 (8.3) 1.4 (5.3)
2683 ± 100
TRW THP60 or PCF60 2.6 (9.8) 1.8 (6.8)
(18 500 ± 700)
TRW THP60 With Linear Cylinder
5.8 (22.0) 4.1 (15.5) 3.3 (12.5)
TRW THP60 With RCH45
Table 3, Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure for High-Pressure Gears at Engine Idle
• Close the load valve until the pump • If the flow rate returns smoothly and
relief pressure is reached. Smoothly quickly, the pump relief valve is ac-
and quickly open the load valve and ceptable. Go to the next substep.
note the flow rate. Repeat this ac-
tion three times. The flow rate 6.4 Test the pump relief valve reaction at 1500
rpm.
should return to the flow rate first
noted with the load valve open. • Run the engine at 1500 rpm and
• If the flow rate does not return note the flow rate with the load
valve open.
smoothly and quickly, the pump re-
lief valve is not working correctly. • Close the load valve until the pump
Replace the replace the PRV or relief pressure is reached. Smoothly
pump, as required. and quickly open the load valve and
note the flow rate. Repeat this ac-
tion three times. The flow rate be limited to prevent excessive pressure from
should return to the flow rate first damaging the gear, and the internal PRV pas-
noted with the load valve open. sage must be blocked to direct oil flow through
• If the flow rate does not return the gear.
smoothly and quickly, replace the Use PartsPro® for the specific VIN to determine if
PRV or pump, as required. the steering gear is equipped with an internal
• If the flow rate returns smoothly and PRV, which will be listed as a serviceable part
quickly, the pump relief valve is ac- under module 536.
ceptable. Go to the next substep. If a TRW steering gear has an internal PRV but
6.5 Test the flow of the pump at idle with a no hydraulic brake booster, see the following
load applied. heading, Internal Leakage Test Setup, TRW
Steering Gears With an Internal PRV, for in-
For vehicles with low-pressure steering structions on setting up the necessary test com-
gears, run the engine at idle and slowly ponents before proceeding with the following
close the load valve until the pressure substeps.
gauge reads 1000 psi (6900 kPa). Read
the flow rate on the gauge, then set the ThyssenKrupp rack and pinion steering gears are
pressure to 1800 psi (12 400 kPa). Read also equipped with an internal PRV, but cannot
the flow gauge, then open the load valve. be tested for internal leakage.
Compare the values to those in Table 2. IMPORTANT: Make sure the fluid tempera-
For vehicles with high-pressure steering ture is approximately 180°F (82°C) and the
gears, use 1000 psi (6900 kPa) and 2300 vehicle is stationary with the front wheels
psi (15 860 kPa) as the test load pres- pointing forward.
sures. See Table 3 for minimum flow rate.
7.1 Run the engine at idle with the load valve
6.6 Test the maximum flow of the pump with open.
no load applied.
• Run the engine at 1500 rpm, make WARNING
sure the load valve is completely
open, and read the flow gauge. Keep fingers clear of the stop bolt and spacer
block during the following test. Make sure that
• If the flow rate is below the mini- the spacer block contacts the axle stop squarely.
mum indicated in Table 2 or Contact that is not square could break the stop
Table 3, replace the PRV or pump, bolts or eject the spacer block, which could
as required. cause serious personal injury.
• If the flow rate is above 5.5 gpm 7.2 Place an unhardened steel spacer, 1-inch
(20.8 L/min) on a vehicle with a (25-mm) thick, between the axle and the
single steering gear, or 7.7 gpm stop bolt on one side of the axle.
(28.8 L/min) on a vehicle with an
assist cylinder installed, replace the The spacer should have an extension or
pump. handle long enough to keep fingers clear
of the axle stop area. A brazing rod or
7. Test the steering gear internal leakage. welding rod works well for this purpose.
Select TRW integral steering gears and all Thys-
senKrupp rack and pinion steering gears are NOTICE
equipped with an internal PRV that significantly
limits maximum supply pressure to protect the While running the following test, do not hold the
steering gear. These gears, unlike gears on ve- steering wheel in the full-turn position for more
hicles fitted with hydraulic brake boosters, cannot than five seconds. Doing so could damage the
be tested for internal leakage by plugging the pump.
internal PRV in the gear. The pump output must
7.3 Have someone turn the steering wheel, loss of assist, as the steering wheel ap-
applying enough force to completely close proaches either full-left or full-right turn.
the rotary valve.
8.1 Check the steering system for stop bolt
Complete closure of the rotary valve re- adjustment.
quires approximately 20 lbf (27 N) pull on
the steering wheel, and will be indicated Make sure the stop bolt settings limit the
by a pressure reading nearly equal to the steering travel so there is ½-inch (13-mm)
system relief pressure (tested in substep clearance from all stationary components,
6.2). and 3/4-inch (19-mm) clearance from all
moving components.
7.4 Hold the steering wheel in the full-turn po-
sition. Note the steering gear internal leak- 8.2 Make sure the pitman arm is situated on
age on the PSSA. the steering gear sector shaft correctly.
Check that the pitman arm and sector
7.5 Repeat the previous substeps for the op- shaft timing marks are aligned.
posite turn.
The maximum permissible internal leak- NOTICE
age for a single gear is 1.0 gpm (3.8
L/min). If leakage is greater in either turn- If power steering pump relief pressure is reached
ing direction, replace the steering gear while the steering wheel is at full lock, release
components as needed. the steering wheel from this position. Do not
allow the pump relief pressure to be maintained
For systems with two or more steering for longer than five seconds or damage to the
gears and/or linear cylinders, the total ac- pump may result.
ceptable internal leakage is 1.0 gpm (3.8
L/min) for each steering gear/ram in the 8.3 Check the poppet relief pressure.
system. Maximum internal leakage on a • Install the PSSA between the steer-
dual-gear system is 2.0 gpm (7.6 L/min). If ing pump and the steering gear. See
the leakage is more than 2.0 gpm (7.6 the following heading, Power Steer-
L/min) on a dual-gear system, isolate the ing System Analyzer Setup, for
auxiliary cylinder from the system using instructions on PSSA installation.
the substeps that follow.
• Run the engine at idle with the load
7.6 Disconnect the auxiliary cylinder hydraulic valve open. Turn the steering wheel
lines at the main gear auxiliary ports. to either full-lock position. Note the
7.7 Plug the main steering gear ports with pressure gauge reading, then repeat
suitable steel or high-pressure plugs or for the opposite turn.
caps. • The pressure should drop slightly
before the stop bolts are contacted.
7.8 Repeat the internal leakage test.
If the pressure increases (from con-
If the internal leakage is less than 1 gpm tact with the stop bolts), the poppets
(3.8 L/min), repair or replace the auxiliary must be manually reset.
gear or linear cylinder. If the internal leak-
If the pressure is relieved and assist
age is greater than 1 gpm (3.8 L/min), re-
is lost when the wheel is too far
pair or replace the main gear.
from the axle stop bolts, refer to the
8. Check the steering gear poppet relief valve and applicable section in this manual for
stop bolt adjustment. gear-specific information.
NOTE: Poppets limit the steering assist • After poppet replacement or adjust-
when the front wheels approach the stop ment, test again for correct poppet
bolts. Improper adjustment can apply exces- relief function and record the new
sive force to the steering linkage, or cause pressure.
8.4 Check for normal hissing sound at full • Run the engine at governed speed.
turn. • Observe the power steering fluid tempera-
NOTE: Noise from the power steering sys- ture until it stabilizes.
tem does not necessarily mean there is a • Record the power steering fluid tempera-
problem. Some noises are normal and are ture in 10-minute intervals until 40 minutes
the result of proper operation. have passed.
See Table 4 for possible causes and rem- • If the temperature does not exceed 250°F
edies for common noises associated with (121°C) during the test, excessive heat
the power steering system and power steer- due to system components is probably not
ing pump. the cause of the complaint. The system
may still experience overheating due to
8.5 Check for abnormal power steering noise. driving and load conditions.
Listen for a hissing sound at less than full If the temperature exceeds 250°F (121°C),
turn. If a hissing sound is heard, check the excessive steering system back pressure
steering gear poppet and the axle stop or excessive pump flow may be the cause
adjustment. of the high temperature problem. If system
back pressure or restriction values found in
NOTICE substeps 5.3 and 5.4 above were close to
the maximum allowable, complete step 5
If the temperature exceeds 250°F (121°C), dam- again. If steering pump flow and relief
age to hoses, seals, and other components may pressures found in step 6 above were
result if the vehicle continues to operate at ex- close to the maximum allowable, complete
cessive steering system temperatures. If this step 6 again.
temperature is exceeded, stop the test and • If excessive heat continues to be a prob-
record the last noted temperature on STI-492. lem, a cooler may need to be added to the
9. Test the system operating temperature. system.
2 2
1
14
12
13
15 A
12
3
4
11 5
10 9
7
4
12/03/2009 f462182
A. High-Pressure Input Port B. Low-Pressure Output Port
1. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir 9. Connector, Male NPT to Beaded Hose Barb
2. Existing Power Steering Fluid Lines (Qty 3) 10. Pipe Coupling
3. Power Steering Pump 11. Tee, Male JIC with Male NPT Branch
4. PSSA Fluid Lines (Qty 2) 12. Swivel Adaptor (Qty 2)
5. PSSA 13. Swivel Nut Run Tee
6. Connector, Straight Thread with O-Ring 14. Relief Valve Threaded Cartridge Body
7. Power Steering Gear (TAS85 shown) 15. External Relief Valve, Threaded Cartridge Type
8. Power Steering Hose, 42"
General Information
The fuel system delivers fuel from the fuel tanks to
the engine. It consists of the engine fuel system
components, the fuel tank(s) and tank mounting com-
ponents, the fuel lines, and (if so equipped) the shut-
off valve. See Fig. 1 for a schematic of the fuel sys-
tem.
The engine fuel system components include fuel fil-
ters, injectors, fuel transfer pumps, and a fuel gover-
nor. For service and maintenance procedures, refer
to the applicable engine manufacturer’s service and
maintenance manuals.
The fuel tanks are held in place by metal bands and
brackets that transfer the load to the vehicle frame.
On some installations, cab-access and chassis-
access step assemblies attach to the fuel tank
mountings.
To ensure sufficient clearance between the fuel tanks
and moving parts of the front suspension, fuel tank
spacers are sometimes required on vehicles with flat
leaf front suspensions or greaseable spring pins. On
standard installations with frame outserts, spacers
are not required.
Fuel suction and return lines made of nylon, or rein-
forced braided fabric, bring fuel from the tank to the
engine, and return surplus fuel from the engine to the
tank. A single right-side rectangular tank holding 30
gallons is standard. Tanks holding 40, 50, 60, 80 and
100 gallons are also available in both single- and
dual-tank systems.
An EquiFlo® dual suction/dual return fuel system is
standard on all vehicles with dual-tank systems. This
system provides equal fuel levels in both fuel tanks
without the need of a low crossover line.
Standard equipment also includes a fuel level sensor
(in the primary tank in a dual-tank system), and an
electronic fuel level gauge in the cab instrument clus-
ter.
3
4
6 5
02/07/2002 f470421
1. Fuel Cooler 3. Fuel Tank 5. Fuel Heater
2. Return Line 4. Suction Line 6. Fuel/Water Separator
Removal 5
Do not drain fuel near, or allow fuel vapor near, 5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel
open flame or intense heat. Doing so is a danger- level sensor harness and remove the cushioned
ous practice, and creates a severe fire hazard. clamp from the flange of the fuel level sensor.
This could lead to personal injury, or property See Fig. 3.
damage. 6. Remove the fuel tank bands and isolators. See
3. Remove the fuel from the tank. See Fig. 1 for Fig. 4. For detailed procedures, see Sub-
location of the fuel drain plug. ject 120.
6.1 Remove the nuts and washers from the
T-bolt at the lower (outboard) end of each
tank bracket.
6.2 Remove the cotter pins and clevis pin
from the upper (inboard) end of each tank
bracket.
6.3 Remove the band and isolators from each
tank bracket.
02/08/2002 f470424 7. Using a fork lift, remove the fuel tank. Remove
the tank bracket isolator from the fuel tank, if it
Fig. 1, Fuel Drain Plug adheres to the tank.
3.1 Place a suitable container under the fuel 8. Inspect the bands, isolators, and brackets for
tank. wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged
parts with new parts.
3.2 On a dual-tank installation, close the fuel
shutoff valve (if equipped) located on the
primary fuel tank.
3.3 Remove the drain plug.
3.4 Protect the fuel from contaminants. Store
it in a clean container for later re-use.
6
4 1
5
5
4
2 3
1
7
03/05/2002 f470434 8
1. Fuel Vent Line 02/12/2002 9 f470430
2. Fuel Level Sensor Wiring Harness 1. Tank Bracket 6. T-Bolt
3. Cushioned Clamp 2. Clevis Pin 7. Washer
4. Electrical Connector 3. Cotter Pin 8. Mounting Nut,
5. Fuel Tank Band 4. Fuel Tank Band 1/2–13
6. Fuel Tank 5. Band Isolator 9. Jam Nut, 1/2–13
WARNING Installation
Failure to replace worn or damaged parts could 1. Install all necessary components on the new fuel
result in loss of a fuel tank and spilling of fuel, tank before installation of the tank on the vehicle.
which could cause property damage or personal See Fig. 5 for fuel level sensor installation.
injury.
1.1 If removed, install the fuel level sensor
9. When replacing a fuel tank, remove all parts nec- and gasket in the fuel tank. Install the self-
essary to install the new fuel tank. Inspect the tapping screws until contact is made with
parts, and replace them as needed. the sensor unit. Do not tighten the screws
9.1 Remove and clean the pipe plugs and fit- yet.
tings for the fuel return and suction lines. 1.2 Install all removed pipe plugs and fittings.
Transfer them to the new fuel tank. Coat all tapered pipe plug and fitting
9.2 Remove and clean the fuel vent line, pipe threads with Loctite® 592, or an equivalent
plug, and fitting. Transfer it as a unit to the sealer. Install the vent line as a unit along
new fuel tank. with its pipe plug and fitting.
9.3 If a single or primary fuel tank is being 2. Make sure the tank bracket isolator is correctly
replaced, transfer the fuel level sensor positioned on the tank bracket.
and gasket to the new fuel tank. 3. Using a fork lift, or other approved lifting device,
and place the fuel tank in its approximate in-
stalled position. Make sure the fuel filler neck is
outboard.
4
IMPORTANT: Install pipe plugs in any remaining
3 open threaded holes. Coat all remaining tapered
pipe plug and fitting threads with Loctite 592, or
02/12/2002 5 f470432
an equivalent sealer.
1. Self-Tapping Screw, 10–24 7. Install the cab-access step(s). For instructions,
2. Fuel Level Sensor see Subject 100.
3. Gasket
4. Fuel Tank 8. Add clean fuel to the fuel tank.
5. Mounting Hole in Tank 9. Prime the engine fuel system. For instructions,
see Subject 140.
Fig. 5, Fuel Level Sensor
10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
On 106-inch cabs only, move the tank fore or aft
until the distance from the front of the tank to the
centerline of the forward tank bracket is 9.84 ±
.20 inches (250 ± 5 mm).
4. Install the fuel tank bands and isolators.
4.1 Position the closed (non-slotted) loop of a
fuel tank band through the slot in the
upper (inboard) end of each tank bracket.
4.2 Install the clevis pin through the upper (in-
board) end of each tank bracket and the
loop of the fuel tank band. Install new cot-
ter pins and bend back the ends to lock in
the clevis pins.
CAUTION
Do not overtighten the fuel tank bands. To do so
could damage the fuel tanks.
4.3 Insert the T-bolt at the lower (slotted) end
of each band into the tank bracket.
4.4 Install a washer and two nuts on each
T-bolt. Tighten the mounting nuts 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m).
4.5 While holding the first nut stationary with a
wrench, tighten each jam nut an additional
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Replacement WARNING
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock all the tires. Failure to replace worn or damaged parts could
2. Remove the cab-access step(s). For instructions, result in loss of a fuel tank and spilling of fuel,
see Subject 100. which could cause personal injury or property
damage.
3. Remove the fuel tank band and isolator. See
Fig. 1. 5. Install the isolator and the new tank band on the
tank. See Fig. 2.
3 3 4
1 2
2
4 1
5
6
5 7
8 9
10
6 11
02/11/2002 12 f470433
1. Fuel Tank 8. Riser Locknut,
2. Band Isolator 3/8–16
7 3. Fuel Tank Band 9. Tank Bracket
8 4. Bottom Step 10. Mounting Nut,
02/12/2002 9 f470430
5. Step Riser 1/2–13
1. Tank Bracket 6. T-Bolt 6. Riser Mounting Bolt, 11. Jam Nut, 1/2–13
2. Clevis 7. Washer 3/8–16 12. T-Bolt
3. Cotter Pin 8. Mounting Nut, 7. Washer
4. Fuel Tank Band 1/2–13
5. Band Isolator 9. Jam Nut, 1/2–13 Fig. 2, Fuel Tank Band Installation
Fig. 1, Fuel Tank Band Removal 5.1 Install the clevis pin through the inboard
end of the tank bracket and tank strap.
3.1 Remove the two nuts and one washer Install and lock a new cotter pin in the cle-
from the T-bolt at the lower (outboard) end vis pin.
of the tank bracket.
IMPORTANT: Fuel tanks can be damaged
3.2 Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from by overtightening the fuel tank straps.
the eye at the upper (inboard) end of the
tank bracket. 5.2 Install a washer and two nuts on the tank
strap T-bolt. Tighten the mounting nut 15
4. Inspect the isolator and clevis pin for wear or
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
damage; replace if needed.
5.3 While holding the mounting nut stationary
with a wrench, tighten the jam nut an ad-
ditional 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
A
4
02/12/2002 f470426
A. 30/40/50 Gallon Tanks B. 60/80 Gallon Tanks C. 100 Gallon Tank
1. Frame Rail 3. Fuel Tank
2. Filler Cap 4. Tank Bracket
4, 5
7
2
6
1
03/05/2002 f470431
1. Fuel Tank Band
2. Fuel Tank
3. Tank Bracket
4. Bracket Mounting Bolt, 5/8–11
5. Washer
6. Head of Clevis Pin
7. Frame Rail
CAUTION
Correct torque on the high-pressure lines is criti-
cal. Incorrect torques could result in leaks or lack
of power due to restricted fuel flow.
1.2 If equipped with a hand pump on the fuel/
water separator, work the hand pump 50
times.
NOTE: There should be a strong resistance
in the hand pump, caused by the pressure
build-up within the fuel system.
1.3 Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a
time, but no longer. Before cranking the
engine again, wait at least two minutes.
The engine should start within four 30-
second attempts.
1.4 If the engine still does not start, open the
high-pressure lines and bleed the air from
the fuel system while cranking. Tighten the
high-pressure lines and repeat the priming
procedure.
3
8
4
2
5
1
6
16
15 14
10
13 9
12
6
11
08/23/2011 f470584
1. Fuel Supply Line to Engine 7. ATD Wiring Harnesses 11. EquiFlo Bracket Stud (qty 2)
2. Fuel Return Line from Engine 8. Coolant Lines (to and from DEF 12. Washer (qty 2)
3. Fuel Shutoff Valves (qty 2) tank) 13. Jam Nut (qty 2)
4. Fuel Return Line to Right-Hand 9. Fuel Supply Line from Left-Hand 14. Control Rod Mounting Bracket
Fuel Tank Tank 15. Right-Side Fuel Control Rod
5. Fuel Supply Line from Right- 10. Fuel Return Line to Left-Hand 16. Left-Side Fuel Control Rod
Hand Tank Tank
6. EquiFlo Bracket
Fastener Torques
Description Size Grade Torque
Fuel Tank Band Mounting Nut and Jam Nut 1/2–13 B 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m)
Riser-to-Tank Bracket Locknut 3/8–16 C 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m)
Step-to-Riser Locknut 1/4–20 B 72 lbf·in (800 N·cm)
Tank Bracket Mounting Locknut 5/8–11 C 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m)
Table 1, Fastener Torques
3
4
6 5
02/07/2002 f470421
1. Fuel Cooler 3. Fuel Tank 5. Fuel Heater
2. Return Line 4. Suction Line 6. Fuel/Water Separator
General Description
10
Fuel/water separators are mounted between the fuel
tank and the fuel pump. Fuel drawn to the engine
travels through the fuel/water separator, which re-
moves water and impurities. See Fig. 1, Fig. 2, or 9
Fig. 3 for DAVCO fuel/water separator configura-
tions. 8
Heavier contaminants and water separate from the
fuel in the lower housing of the fuel/water separator,
and collect in the bottom to be drained out when the
drain valve is opened. From the lower housing, the 7
fuel level rises into the clear cover, which contains
the replaceable filter element. The fuel passes
through the filter element into the center of the filter,
and on to the outlet port.
When the filter is new, the fuel is able to pass 6
through the lower part of the filter element. As the
5
element’s lower portion clogs, the fuel level rises in
order to pass through the filter. This process contin-
ues until the filter element is clogged all the way to
the top.
For efficiency, the filter should be changed only when
4
the fuel level has reached the top of the filter ele-
ment. There is no significant restriction to fuel flow
until the element is completely clogged.
11
DAVCO fuel/water separators come in a number of
different configurations. There may be an electric 3
12
heating element installed in the lower housing
(Fig. 1, items 11 and 12) or there may be a fluid heat
exchanger in the lower housing (Fig. 2, item 3). If 2
there is fluid heat, the warming fluid may be fuel re-
turning from the engine or engine coolant. Fig. 4
shows the patterns that fuel and heating fluids follow
in fluid-heated units.
NOTE: The Daimler Trucks North America
Learning Center (accessible through www.Ac- 13
1
cessFreightliner.com) and DAVCO (www.Dav-
coTec.com) offer excellent online resources for 05/05/2009 f470530
15 6
5
14
4
13
7
12
8
11
9
9
10
10
8
6 7
2
11
5
12
4 13
1
2 3 14
1
02/09/2011 f470568
1. Drain Valve 9. Filter Element
02/08/2011 f470567 2. Lower Housing 10. Check Valve
1. Drain Valve 9. Fuel Outlet Port 3. Cover O-Ring Assembly
2. Bottom Plate 10. Filter Element 4. Vent Cap O-Ring 11. Fuel Inlet Port
3. Heat Exchanger 11. Spring 5. Vent Cap 12. Pre-Heater
4. Bottom Plate O-Ring 12. Clear Cover 6. Collar 13. Fuel Outlet Port
5. Lower Housing 13. Vent Cap O-Ring 7. Clear Cover 14. Water-In-Fuel
6. Grommet 14. Vent Cap 8. Spring Sensor
7. Cover O-Ring 15. Collar
8. Inlet Port/Check Fig. 3, DAVCO Diesel Pro 243
Valve
2 3
1
4
D A
C B
02/20/2009 f470413
Removal the frame rail. If the fuel inlet line was not com-
pletely disconnected in the previous step, discon-
nect it.
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator Installation
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator IMPORTANT: All fittings, including the locking
only when the engine and fluids have cooled. collars, must be very clean as they are installed.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause A piece of grit or a damaged surface on a seal-
severe personal injury due to scalding. ing face or in threads can cause air leaks.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
Use paste sealer to ensure that the tapered
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work thread fuel line fittings will not leak. Do not use
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense sealer on compression fittings and do not seal
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- the fittings with tape, which will eventually leak.
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- 1. If the inlet fuel line is inaccessible when the fuel/
age. water separator is mounted on the vehicle,
Most service procedures are done with the fuel/water loosely connect the inlet fuel line before mount-
separator in place, but some procedures, such as ing the fuel/water separator on the frame rail.
pressure testing, require that the fuel/water separator To minimize restrictions, keep fuel line routing as
be removed from the vehicle. smooth as possible, with no low-hanging loops
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, that could trap water. If the fuel line is being
and chock the tires. made to length on the job, be sure that the inner
liner of the hose is not cut by the fitting. Be cer-
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ tain the interior of all fuel lines is clean and free
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- of debris before connecting them, and confirm
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many that all fittings are clean.
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
2. Mount the fuel/water separator on the frame rail
separators onto the ground. and install the mounting fasteners.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain NOTICE
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to The lower housings on DAVCO fuel/water separa-
tors are made of aluminum. To avoid damaging
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382. threads, be careful not to overtighten fasteners
3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 14) and open or fittings on the fuel/water separator.
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel 3. If the fuel inlet line was loosely connected previ-
to just below the collar level, then close the drain ously, tighten it. If it was not connected, connect
valve. and tighten it.
4. Unplug the electric heating element, if equipped, 4. Connect the fuel outlet line. Tighten the fitting 25
or disconnect the heating fluid lines. to 40 lbf·ft (34 to 54 N·m).
5. Disconnect the fuel outlet line. 5. Install the electric heating element, if equipped,
6. Disconnect the fuel inlet line. If the inlet line is and connect the wiring harness, or connect the
difficult to reach, loosen the connection, then fully fluid heater lines. It does not matter which direc-
disconnect it after the fuel/water separator is re- tion the heating fluid flows through the housing;
moved from the frame rail. the lines can be reversed.
7. Remove the fuel/water separator mounting fas- 6. Prime the system
teners and remove the fuel/water separator from
6.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
9
10
8
6 7
4
2 3
02/08/2011 f470567
1. Drain Valve 9. Fuel Outlet Port
2. Bottom Plate 10. Filter Element
3. Heat Exchanger 11. Spring
4. Bottom Plate O-Ring 12. Clear Cover
5. Lower Housing 13. Vent Cap O-Ring
6. Grommet 14. Vent Cap
7. Cover O-Ring 15. Collar
8. Inlet Port/Check
Valve
Filter Element Replacement the fuel/water separator from sealing, and an air
leak will result.
7. Install the grommet on the bottom of the new
WARNING filter.
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator 8. Install the new filter and grommet assembly and
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or cover O-ring on the housing.
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled. 9. Install the clear cover and the collar. Hand-
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause tighten the collar.
severe personal injury due to scalding. 10. Prime the system
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere, 10.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work 10.2 Fill the housing to the top with clean die-
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense sel fuel.
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
10.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
O-ring and vent cap.
age.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 10.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
and chock the tires. reaches its normal operating pressure,
increase engine speed to high idle for one
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- tem.
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many 10.5 While the engine is running, and after the
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water air is purged from the system, loosen the
separators onto the ground. vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- above the collar, then hand-tighten the
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain vent cap.
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle. 10.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en-
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to gine.
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 14) and open Emergency Temporary Filter
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel Replacement
to just below the collar level, then close the drain
valve.
4. Using a DAVCO Collar Wrench (Fig. 2), remove
WARNING
the clear cover and collar. Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
NOTE: Broken vent cap and collar warranty may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
claims will not be accepted if any tool other than only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
a DAVCO Collar Wrench, p/n 380134 or Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
382002, is used for removal. During installation, severe personal injury due to scalding.
the vent cap and collar are to be hand- If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
tightened only, not tightened with a wrench. its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
5. Remove the filter, cover O-ring, and vent cap tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
O-ring. Dispose of them in an environmentally with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
acceptable manner. heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
6. Clean all threads and sealing surfaces very thor-
age.
oughly. Even a small amount of dirt will prevent
VENT CAP
FOR REMOVAL OF TOP COLLAR ONLY
15
14
13
02/16/2009 f470277
12
Fig. 2, DAVCO Collar Wrench
8. Remove the filter grommet from the filter stud, if NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
equipped. fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
9. Fill the housing to the top with clean diesel fuel. 3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 14) and open
10. Install a standard engine spin-on filter (part num- the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel
ber FF105 or equivalent) on the filter stud. to just below the collar level, then close the drain
valve.
11. Install the cover O-ring, clear cover, and the col-
lar. Hand-tighten the collar. 4. Place a shop towel under the fuel inlet fitting.
Hold the check valve body in place with an open-
12. Install and hand-tighten the vent cap O-ring and end wrench and, using a flare-nut wrench, care-
vent cap. fully remove the fuel inlet fitting. Drain any re-
13. Start the engine. When the lubricating oil sidual fuel into the container.
reaches its normal operating pressure, increase 5. Remove the check valve assembly from the fuel/
engine speed to high idle for one to two minutes water separator housing.
to purge air from the system.
6. Remove and discard the check ball, spring, and
14. Check for leaks and shut down the engine. plastic retainer. See Fig. 3.
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator 1. Plastic Spring 3. Check Ball
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or Retainer 4. Seal
2. Retaining Spring 5. Check Valve Body
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Fig. 3, Check Valve Assembly
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding. 7. Carefully clean the threads on the check valve
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere, body. Install the new check ball, spring, and plas-
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni- tic retainer on the check valve body.
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work 8. Clean the threads on the fuel inlet fitting and
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense fuel/water separator housing. Apply a soft-set
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- pipe thread sealant to the check valve body
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- threads.
age.
9. Install the check valve body in the fuel/water
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, separator housing and tighten per the specifica-
and chock the tires. tions in Table 1. Do not use tape to seal the fuel
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ fittings; it will eventually leak.
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many Check Valve Assembly Torque Values
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water Torque Value:
Fuel/Water Separator
separators onto the ground. lbf·ft (N·m)
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- Fuel Pro 382 44–60 (60–81)
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain Fuel Pro 482 45 (61)
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
Check Valve Assembly Torque Values IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
Torque Value:
Fuel/Water Separator
lbf·ft (N·m) ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
Diesel Pro 233 25–40 (34–54)
separators onto the ground.
Table 1, Check Valve Assembly Torque Values
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
10. Prime the system valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
10.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed. 3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 4, Item 5) and open
the drain valve (Fig. 4, Item 1) to drain the fuel
10.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover, to just below the collar level, then close the drain
and fill the housing to the top with clean valve.
diesel fuel.
4. Using a DAVCO collar wrench (Fig. 2), remove
10.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap. the clear cover and collar.
10.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil NOTE: Broken vent cap and collar warranty
reaches its normal operating pressure, claims will not be accepted if any tool other than
increase engine speed to high idle for one
a DAVCO collar wrench, p/n 380134 or 382002,
to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
tem. is used for removal. During installation, the vent
cap and collar are to be hand-tightened only,
10.5 While the engine is running, and after the not tightened with a wrench.
air is purged from the system, loosen the
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just 5. Remove the filter and O-rings. Dispose of the
above the collar, then hand-tighten the filter and O-rings in an environmentally accept-
vent cap. able manner.
10.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en- 6. Remove the check valve from the lower housing.
gine. 7. Clean all threads and sealing surfaces very thor-
oughly. Even a small amount of dirt will prevent
Check Valve Replacement, the fuel/water separator from sealing, and an air
leak will result.
Diesel Pro 243 8. Install the new check valve body in the lower
housing. Tighten the check valve 12 to 14 lbf·ft
WARNING (16 to 19N·m).
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator 9. Install the new filter and cover O-ring on the
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or housing.
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator 10. Install the clear cover and the collar. Hand-
only when the engine and fluids have cooled. tighten the collar.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding. 11. Prime the system
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere, 11.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni- 11.2 Fill the housing to the top with clean die-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work sel fuel.
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- 11.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- O-ring and vent cap.
age.
11.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, reaches its normal operating pressure,
and chock the tires.
10
2
11
12
13
1
14
02/09/2011 f470568
1. Drain Valve 9. Filter Element
2. Lower Housing 10. Check Valve
3. Cover O-Ring 11. Fuel Inlet Port
4. Vent Cap O-Ring 12. Pre-Heater
5. Vent Cap 13. Fuel Outlet Port
6. Collar 14. Water-In-Fuel
7. Clear Cover Sensor
8. Spring
Any one of several types of heaters and ther- Electric Heater Test Paramaters
moswitches may be fitted to DAVCO fuel/water sepa-
rators. They include 12 VDC heaters, 120 VAC heat- Electric Heater Watts Resistance
ers, combination heater thermoswitches, and fluid Range: Ohms
heaters. The voltage and wattage ratings are 120 VAC 75 173–203
stamped on the hex or the sheath of each compo- 120 VAC 37 369–411
nent.
Table 1, Electric Heater Test Parameters
Test procedures under these headings apply to the
following heater types, as specified:
• Electric Heater 12 VDC Thermoswitch
• 12 VDC Thermoswitch 1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
• Combination Heater Thermoswitch and chock the tires.
• Fluid Heat
WARNING
The following equipment is recommended to test
DAVCO heaters and thermoswitches: Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
• A precision low-resistance ohmmeter capable engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
of measuring 0.1 ohm or less only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
• A clamp-on DC current-flow meter Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding.
• A means of chilling a thermoswitch, such as
ice, dry ice, or compressed carbon dioxide If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
• A flameless source of heat, such as an infrared tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
heat lamp with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
• A vortex tube to heat and cool a thermoswitch heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age.
Electric Heater
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
and chock the tires. ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
2. Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness. states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
separators onto the ground.
3. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the pins of the
heater (for heaters with one pin, connect to the 2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
pin and the bushing). rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
4. Read the resistance and use Table 1 to deter-
mine whether the heater is within the acceptable NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
resistance range. fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
5. Connect the heater wiring harness. 3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level,
Electric Heater Test Paramaters then close the drain valve.
Electric Heater Watts Resistance 4. Disconnect the thermoswitch wiring harness, see
Range: Ohms Fig. 1. Remove the thermoswitch from the fuel/
water separator.
12 VDC (two pin) 250 0.6–0.8
12 VDC (single pin) 250 0.4–0.5 5. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the pins of the
thermoswitch.
12 VDC (single pin) 150 0.8–1.1
Combination Heater
Thermoswitch
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding.
03/17/2009 f470526
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
Fig. 1, 12 VDC Thermoswitch tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
6. Lower the thermoswitch temperature to below heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
40°F (4.4°C). The resistance shown on the ohm- ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
meter should be less than 0.1 ohm. age.
7. Raise the thermoswitch temperature to above IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
60°F (15.5°C). The resistance should be more water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
than 10 megohms. ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
8. Install the thermoswitch in the fuel/water separa- states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
tor. Connect the thermoswitch wiring harness. separators onto the ground.
9. Prime the system 2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed. rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover,
and fill the housing to the top with clean
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
diesel fuel. fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap. 3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level,
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil then close the drain valve.
reaches its normal operating pressure,
4. Disconnect the heater/thermoswitch unit from the
increase engine speed to high idle for one
wiring harness, see Fig. 2.
to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
tem. 5. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the heater/
thermoswitch pins.
9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
air is purged from the system, loosen the 6. Lower the heater/thermoswitch unit temperature
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just to below 40°F (4.4°C).
above the collar, then hand-tighten the The resistance shown on the ohmmeter should
vent cap. be:
9.6 Shut down the engine; check for leaks. • 0.8 to 1.1 ohms for a 12 VDC 150 W unit
• 0.2 to 2.5 ohms for a 24 VDC 250 W unit
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age.
03/17/2009 f470527 IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
Fig. 2, Combination Heater Thermoswitch water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
7. Raise the heater/thermoswitch unit temperature states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
to above 70°F (21°C). The heater/thermoswitch separators onto the ground.
unit should show an open circuit.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
8. Install the heater/thermoswitch in the fuel/water rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
separator. Connect the heater/thermoswitch wir- valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
ing harness.
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
9. Prime the system fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed. 3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve
9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover, to drain the fuel to just below the collar level,
and fill the housing to the top with clean then close the drain valve.
diesel fuel. 4. Disconnect the heating fluid lines from the bot-
9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap. tom plate. These will be either engine coolant
lines or return fuel lines. Plug engine coolant
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil lines after removing them from the bottom plate
reaches its normal operating pressure, of the housing.
increase engine speed to high idle for one
to two minutes to purge air from the sys- 5. Remove the bottom plate and lower housing
tem. O-ring.
6. When the fuel entering the fuel/water separator
9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
is cold, the thermovalve moves up, allowing
air is purged from the system, loosen the
warming fluid to enter the heater loop in the heat
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
exchanger. When the fuel is warm, the thermov-
above the collar, then hand-tighten the
alve moves down, causing the warming fluid to
vent cap.
bypass the heater loop and return directly to the
9.6 Shut down the engine; check for leaks. tank. See Fig. 3.
1
1 03/17/2009 f470528
1. Fluid Port
2. Top of Thermovalve Spool
• Locking-collar-assembled: Apply 2 to 3
drops of Loctite 406 to the bottom collar
2 threads, then tighten 50 to 60 lbf·ft (68 to
81 N·m).
B • Screw-assembled: Install the screws on the
bottom plate and tighten them 8 to 10 lbf·ft
(11 to 14 N·m).
8. Connect the heating fluid lines.
9. Prime the system
1
9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover,
and fill the housing to the top with clean
diesel fuel.
9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
2
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
reaches its normal operating pressure,
04/08/2009 f470529 increase engine speed to high idle for one
A. Fuel is Cold, Thermovalve Is Up to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
B. Fuel is Warm, Thermovalve is Down tem.
1. Heater Loop 2. Thermovalve 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
air is purged from the system, loosen the
Fig. 3, Heat Exchanger Fluid Flow vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
above the collar, then hand-tighten the
vent cap.
9.6 Shut down the engine; check for leaks.
Vapor Bubbles
Vapor bubbles are harmless and are present in all
diesel fuel systems. Vapor bubbles are often mis- 1 2 3 4
taken for air bubbles, but do not affect engine perfor-
mance.
Vapor bubbles (see Fig. 1) may be visible in a diag- 04/07/2009 f470511
nostic sight tube installed between the fuel/water
separator and the fuel pump. They consist of harm- 1. Fuel Pump
2. Engine
less fuel vapor and trapped air, may vary from 3. Fuel Outlet Line, Vapor Bubbles Visible
champagne-size to 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter, and 4. Fuel/Water Separator, Vapor Bubbles Visible Inside
may increase in volume or size as the engine rpm Filter, No Bubbles Visible in Clear Cover
increases. The lower pressure inside a fuel/water 5. Fuel Return Line (no bubbles)
separator filter, caused by the suction of the fuel
pump pulling fuel through the fuel/water separator, Fig. 1, Harmless Vapor Bubbles
creates vapor bubbles. These vapor bubbles are nor-
mal and harmless to engine operation. In the fuel bubbles will be visible in a diagnostic sight tube in-
pump, the fuel is pressurized and the vapor bubbles stalled between the fuel pump and the fuel/water
dissolve. Vapor bubbles do not appear on the fuel separator, and in a diagnostic sight tube installed in
return side of the system. the fuel return hose.
There is no troubleshooting or repair procedure re- Exhaust gas bubbles may also be visible in the clear
quired for vapor bubbles. Vapor bubbles do not filter cover. They are the result of leaking fuel injector
cause performance issues and will not be present seals, which can allow combustion gases to enter the
downstream of the fuel pump. fuel system, pass through the fuel return line into the
fuel tank, and be drawn into the fuel/water separator.
Air and Gas Bubbles They may be visible in a diagnostic sight tube in-
stalled in the fuel return line. To test for combustion
Air or gas bubbles indicate harmful leaks, and can gas in the fuel, disconnect the return line at the tank,
cause hard starting and impaired engine perfor- submerge the end in a bucket of fuel, run the engine,
mance. All diesel fuel holds some trapped air, caused and watch for bubbles. As they pop, these bubbles
by the natural splashing that occurs in the fuel tank. may smell like exhaust fumes.
But excessive air bubbles, severe enough to degrade
In extreme cases, these combustion gas bubbles
engine performance, indicate an air leak on the suc-
cause enough aeration in the fuel tank to create vis-
tion side of the fuel system, from the fuel tank into
ible bubbles in the clear cover of the fuel/water sepa-
the fuel pump.
rator and impair engine performance. See the engine
Air bubbles visible in the clear cover of a DAVCO manufacturer’s documentation for diagnosis and re-
fuel/water separator may indicate an air leak in the pair of injector seal leakage.
fuel system upstream of the bubbles, or in the fuel/
Use the following procedures to determine which
water separator; see Fig. 2. If there are no bubbles
bubbles are present in the fuel system, and whether
visible in the clear cover but the engine runs rough,
repair is necessary.
there may be an air leak at or between the fuel/water
separator outlet port and the fuel pump inlet. These
the threads with liquid or paste sealer, and re- 9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
connect the fuel connections and tighten them reaches its normal operating pressure,
securely. increase engine speed to high idle for one
to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
Air Pressure Testing tem.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
and chock the tires. air is purged from the system, loosen the
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- above the collar, then hand-tighten the
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain vent cap.
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
The drain valve on the Fuel Pro 382 has a 1/2- Filter Element Restriction Check
inch (12.7-mm) opening; use a hose with a 1/2-
A DAVCO fuel/water separator, properly assembled
inch pipe thread to fit correctly.
with the rubber grommet in the bottom of the fuel
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve filter, does not restrict fuel flow until the fuel level has
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level, risen to the top of the filter. If the fuel level has risen
then close the drain valve. to the top of the filter, replace the filter.
4. Remove the fuel/water separator from the chas-
sis. For instructions, see Subject 100. Check Valve Operation Test,
Fuel Pro 382/482 and Diesel Pro
WARNING 243 Configurations
Wear goggles and skin protection when When air is introduced into the fuel system, (e.g.
pressure-testing a fuel/water separator, and be when draining fluid or when replacing the fuel filter),
careful not to perform this test near a source of the check valve (Fig. 3) works to keep the fuel sys-
possible ignition, such as an open flame. Never tem primed from the fuel tank to the fuel/water
exceed the maximum pressure stipulated for the separator.
test, and do not perform this test if the clear
cover appears to be damaged.
5. Plug the fuel outlet port. Do not remove the filter,
filter cover, collar, vent cap, drain valve, or check
valve. Do not remove the electric heating ele-
ment (if equipped), and do not plug the fluid heat 2
1 3
ports (if equipped).
4 5
12/18/2006 f470502
6. Apply 15 psi (207 kPa) air pressure at the fuel
inlet. Immerse the unit in a tank of water and 1. Plastic Spring 3. Check Ball
look for air bubbles. Retainer 4. Seal
2. Retaining Spring 5. Check Valve Body
7. If no bubbles appear, the air leak is not in the
fuel/water separator. Fig. 3, Check Valve Assembly
8. Install the fuel/water separator onto the chassis To test for proper check valve operation, remove the
frame rail. For instructions, see Subject 100. fuel inlet line, then open the vent cap. Fuel should
9. Prime the system not flow out of the check valve, although a slight
seepage of fuel is normal. If fuel drains back out of
9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed. the check valve, complete the following procedure.
9.2 Remove the vent cap from the cover, and 1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
fill the housing to the top with clean diesel and chock the tires.
fuel.
9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
Fuel Pro
Fuel Pro 382 Diesel Pro 243 Diesel Pro 233
482
Component
lbf·in lbf·in lbf·in
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m)
(N·cm) (N·cm) (N·cm)
44–60 12–14 25–40
Inlet Port/Check Valve 45 (61) — — —
(60–81 ) (16–19)* (34–54)
20–24 20–24 20–24
Water in Fuel Sensor — — — —
(226–271) (226–271) (226–271)
15–30 15–30 25–40
Electric Heating Element — — 15 (20) —
(20–41) (20–41) (34–54)
* Check valve assembly not connected to inlet port on Diesel Pro 243 configurations.
General Description
1
The fuel/water separator is mounted on the frame
2
rail, between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. Fuel
drawn to the engine travels through the fuel/water
separator, which removes water and solid contami-
nants. The fuel/water separator includes a spin-on
filter element and a sight bowl. See Fig. 1. The fuel/
water separator may also be equipped with the fol- 3
lowing optional components:
• Ignition-controlled heater to melt ice and wax in
the fuel
• Water sensor probe to alert the operator to
drain the sight bowl 4
• Manual priming pump to easily prime the fuel/
water separator
Principles of Operation
Diesel fuel enters at the top of the separator and
flows down past the heater element, if equipped, to
the top of the filter element. As the fuel flows down 5
the sides of the element, the heavier contaminants
fall directly to the collection bowl. The filter element 6
itself contains a resin that repels water and forces it
to bead and fall to the collection bowl.
7
Filtered fuel is drawn out through the top of the sepa- 10
rator, and the water and solid contaminants remain in 9 8
the collection bowl. As water collects, it completes
the circuit between the two prongs of the water sen-
sor probe, if equipped, and a warning light on the
02/02/2010 f470178
dash alerts the operator to drain the bowl.
1. Priming Pump 7. Water Sensor Probe
The heater is operated by turning on the ignition 2. Mounting Head 8. Water Sensor Probe
switch for 5 minutes before starting the engine. 3. Gasket Wiring Harness
4. Filter Element 9. Heater Wiring
5. O-Ring Harness
6. Sight Bowl 10. Drain Plug
Removal WARNING
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, Do not expose the fuel to open fire. Do not work
and chock the tires. with the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
Open the hood.
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water age.
separator.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel/water
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ separator.
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- 6. If equipped, disconnect the wiring harnesses
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many from the water sensor probe and the heater ele-
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water ment.
separators onto the ground.
7. Remove the fuel/water separator mounting bolts,
3. Turn the drain plug counterclockwise to open it. If and remove the fuel/water separator from its
equipped, operate the priming pump. See Fig. 1. mounting bracket.
5
6 Installation
4 1. Mount the fuel/water separator on the frame rail
3 mounting bracket, and install the mounting bolts.
7 Tighten the bolts 40 lbf·ft (55 N·m).
2 2. Remove the sight bowl and the filter element as
a unit from the new fuel/water separator.
3. Using clean motor oil or diesel fuel, lubricate the
gasket in the top of the filter element.
8 4. Make sure the drain in the sight bowl is closed,
1 then fill the filter element and bowl assembly with
9 clean fuel.
5. Install the element and bowl assembly on the
mounting head and hand-tighten it until snug.
10
6. If equipped, connect the wiring harnesses to the
water sensor probe and the heater.
11
7. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel/water separator.
02/03/2010 f470552 Tighten all fittings finger-tight plus 1/4 turn.
1. Washers (qty 2) 7. Mounting Head 8. Prime the fuel/water separator.
2. Nuts (qty 2) 8. Mounting Bolts (qty
3. Frame Rail 2) If equipped with a priming pump, loosen the
4. Fuel Outlet Port 9. Filter Element drain plug and operate the priming pump until
5. Fuel Inlet Port 10. Sight Bowl fuel comes out at the drain.
6. Priming Pump 11. Drain Plug
If not equipped with a priming pump, fill the filter
Fig. 1, Fuel/Water Separator Assembly and Installation element and sight bowl with clean fuel and crank
the engine until it starts.
4. When the fuel/water separator is completely 9. Start the engine and check for leaks.
drained, turn the drain plug clockwise to close it.
10. Shut down the engine and repair any leaks.
Replacement
1
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
2
and chock the tires.
Open the hood.
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water
separator.
3
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
separators onto the ground.
3. Turn the drain plug counterclockwise to open it. If 4
equipped, operate the pump.
4. When the fuel/water separator is completely
drained, turn the drain plug clockwise to close it.
WARNING
Do not expose the fuel to open fire. Do not work
with the fuel system near open flame or intense 5
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- 6
age.
5. If equipped, disconnect the wiring harnesses
7
from the water sensor probe and the heater. See 10
Fig. 1. 9 8
6. Spin off the sight bowl and the filter element as a
unit. Remove the gasket from the top of the filter
element. 02/02/2010 f470178
7. Remove the sight bowl from the filter element. 1. Priming Pump 7. Water Sensor Probe
Clean the O-ring seating surface. 2. Mounting Head 8. Water Sensor Probe
3. Gasket Wiring Harness
8. Apply a thin coating of clean diesel fuel or en- 4. Filter Element 9. Heater Wiring
gine oil to the O-ring and the new gasket. 5. O-Ring Harness
6. Sight Bowl 10. Drain Plug
9. Spin the sight bowl onto the new filter element
and then fill the filter element and sight bowl as-
Fig. 1, Fuel/Water Separator Assembly
sembly with clean diesel fuel.
10. Spin the entire assembly onto the mounting head If not equipped with a priming pump, fill the filter
and tighten by hand until snug. element and sight bowl with clean fuel and crank
the engine until it starts.
11. Connect the heater and water sensor wiring har-
nesses, if equipped. 13. Start the engine and check for leaks.
12. Prime the fuel/water separator. 14. Shut down the engine and repair any leaks.
If equipped with a priming pump, loosen the
drain plug and operate the priming pump until
fuel comes out at the drain.
Replacement
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
1
Open the hood.
2
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water
separator.
4 3
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water 01/23/96 f470185
01/23/96 f470184
1. Drain Plug 2. Water Sensor Probe
Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Leaking into the Fuel System
Problem—Air Leaking into the Fuel System
Possible Cause Remedy
The drain is not closed. Tighten the drain valve.
The sight bowl or filter element is loose. Hand-tighten the sight bowl or filter element until snug.
There are loose, broken, or clogged fuel Tighten, clean, or repair the fuel fittings, valves, or filters as needed.
fittings, valves, or filters.
Problem—High Water Light Does Not Illuminate For 2 to 5 Seconds When Ignition is Turned to ACCESSORY
Problem—High Water Light Does Not Illuminate For 2 to 5 Seconds When Ignition is Turned to ACCESSORY
Possible Cause Remedy
Wiring connections are loose. Tighten connections as needed.
Fuel/water separator is not grounded. Check that power is on, and the fuel/water separator is grounded.
Wiring is damaged. Check for damaged wiring and replace as needed. See EZWiring for a
diagram of the sensor circuit.
Water sensor probe is damaged. Replace the water sensor probe. See Subject 130 for instructions.
Liquefied natural gas (LNG) vapors are highly flam- • Cover eyes and exposed skin with cryogenic-
mable. Whenever a leak is suspected, immediately rated protective devices when working on the
shut off all engines and ignition sources. Avoid caus- fuel system or fueling the vehicle.
ing sparks, and stay away from arcing switches and
equipment. Extinguish cigarettes, pilot lights, flames, Workshop Precautions
and other sources of ignition in the area and adja- Do not store an LNG vehicle indoors for any ex-
cent areas. Immediately provide extra ventilation to tended period of time.
the area. Do not start any equipment until the gas
leak is corrected and the area cleared of LNG. Observe the following safety precautions when LNG
vehicles are inside a workshop:
Natural gas is nontoxic, but can cause asphyxiation
at high enough concentrations simply by excluding • Use only safety fluorescent extension shop
adequate oxygen to sustain life. lights when working around LNG fuel systems.
Periodic inspections of the LNG tank are required by • Ensure the shop ceiling is equipped with a vent
law to ensure continued safety. Each fuel tank should system that will allow gas to escape and dissi-
be visually inspected at specified intervals for exter- pate.
nal damage and deterioration. See the Business • Ensure the shop is equipped with an alarm
Class M2® Maintenance Manual for inspection system that activates when gas concentration
schedule information. in the air becomes dangerous.
If a tank receives an impact, or has deep scratches • Have CO2 fire extinguishers (ABC minimum)
or gouges, it should be inspected before refilling. The located in a highly visible and easily accessible
inspection should be performed by a qualified per- location.
son, in accordance with the tank manufacturer’s es-
tablished inspection criteria. • Permit no smoking or other ignition sources
within thirty feet of an LNG vehicle.
Always use a natural gas detector to test the system
for leaks, whether an odor is present or not. A bubble • Avoid open flames or sparks near an LNG ve-
solution can be used to pinpoint the exact location of hicle.
leaks. • Check the fuel tank pressure gauge periodi-
cally to ensure that pressure is within the nor-
Servicing Precautions mal range of 120 to 150 psi (827 to 1034 kPa).
In the unlikely event that tank pressure ex-
Observe the following safety precautions when ser-
ceeds 230 psi (1586 kPa) and the pressure
vicing LNG-powered vehicles:
relief valve does not open automatically, vent
• Always purge the fuel lines and tank before the tank outdoors immediately.
performing maintenance or repairs on the fuel
system. This can be done by either transferring
LNG in the fuel tank to an approved cryogenic-
Major Repair and Replacement
rated container, or by running the vehicle until of Parts
the tank is empty and the engine stops.
• Close the fuel tank shutoff valves before per- If a natural-gas-fueled vehicle is involved in an acci-
forming maintenance and repairs. Open the dent, remove the fuel tank from service and have
De-Fueling
WARNING
Liquefied natural gas (LNG) vapors are highly
flammable. Refer to the safety precautions listed
in Subject 100 before servicing the vehicle. Fail-
ure to observe these precautions could lead to
ignition of the natural gas, which could cause
bodily injury, death, or severe property damage.
IMPORTANT: Follow all local, state, and federal
guidelines regarding usage and venting of LNG.
Purging the fuel system and fuel tank can be done
by either transferring LNG in the fuel tank to an ap-
proved cryogenic-rated container, or by running the
vehicle until the tank is empty and the engine stops.
Detailed LNG tank de-fueling information and proce-
dures can be obtained from the fuel system manu-
facturer: www.nexgenfueling.com.
Chart Inc.
1300 Airport Drive
Ball Ground, GA 30107
770-479-6531
Replacement 8
7 9
6 10
WARNING
5
Liquefied natural gas (LNG) vapors are highly 11
flammable. Refer to the safety precautions listed
in Subject 100 before servicing the vehicle. Fail-
ure to observe these precautions could lead to 12
ignition of the natural gas, which could cause
bodily injury, death, or severe property damage.
Additional fuel system component repair, replace- 4
ment, and troubleshooting information can be ob-
tained from the fuel system manufacturer’s website: 3
www.nexgenfueling.com.
1. Shut down the engine and apply the parking 2
brake.
2. De-fuel the LNG tank. See Subject 110 for more 1
information.
05/05/2010 f470533
3. Once all fuel has been removed from the LNG
tank, close the fuel shutoff and vapor shutoff 1. Economizer 7. Primary Relief Valve
valves. 2. Vapor Shutoff Valve 8. Tank Pressure
3. Fuel Fill Hose Gauge
4. Shut down all vehicle electrical systems. 4. Secondary Relief 9. Fill Vent Fitting
Valve (red cap) 10. Excess Flow Valve
5. Carefully remove the U-tube attached to the 5. Fuel Fill Fitting 11. Fuel Shutoff Valve
economizer and the tank knuckle. See Fig. 1. 6. Fuel Level Sender (liquid)
6. Ensuring no threads are damaged, carefully re- Box 12. Fill Check Valve
move the elbow fitting from the economizer.
Fig. 1, Fuel Tank Plumbing Components
7. Remove and discard the economizer.
9. Remove the economizer again, then thoroughly
8. When installing a new economizer, it is neces-
clean the threads on the nipple fitting and the
sary to clean the internal economizer threads to
economizer with compressed nitrogen or a wire
prevent metal shavings and debris from collect-
brush.
ing in the valve seat once installed.
IMPORTANT: Use nickel tape on all non-
8.1 Counting each turn, thread the econo-
mizer onto the nipple fitting. compression fittings. See the following section,
Nickel Tape Application, for more information
8.2 Unscrew the economizer from the nipple on using and applying nickel-impregnated or
fitting. Using compressed nitrogen or a nickel-coated tape.
wire brush, remove all metal shavings and
debris from the external nipple threads 10. Apply nickel tape to the exposed nipple fitting
and the internal economizer threads. threads, then install the economizer on the nipple
fitting. Tighten the economizer one full turn be-
8.3 Repeat the above two substeps until no yond hand-tight.
shavings or debris are found in the econo-
mizer, always using the same number of 11. Using compressed nitrogen or a wire brush, re-
full turns for each installation. move any dirt and debris from the elbow fitting
threads, then apply nickel tape to the exposed
fitting threads.
12. Install the elbow fitting on the economizer.
Tighten the elbow fitting three turns beyond
Welding 8
7 9
6 10
WARNING
5
Liquefied natural gas (LNG) vapors are highly 11
flammable. Refer to the safety precautions listed
in Subject 100 before servicing the vehicle. Fail-
ure to observe these precautions could lead to 12
ignition of the natural gas, which could cause
severe bodily injury, death, or property damage.
4
NOTICE
Welding an LNG fuel tank could damage the tank 3
vacuum insulation and/or void the warranty. Con-
sult the tank manufacturer (www.nexgenfueling- 2
.com or 770-479-6531) before welding an LNG
tank. 1
IMPORTANT: Follow all local, state, and federal
guidelines regarding usage and venting of LNG. 05/05/2010 f470533
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 1. Economizer 7. Primary Relief Valve
the engine and set the parking brake. Chock the 2. Vapor Shutoff Valve 8. Tank Pressure
3. Fuel Fill Hose Gauge
tires. 4. Secondary Relief 9. Fill Vent Fitting
2. Ensure the vehicle is parked in a well-ventilated Valve (red cap) 10. Excess Flow Valve
area. Do not park the vehicle in an area where 5. Fuel Fill Fitting 11. Fuel Shutoff Valve
natural gas can accumulate. 6. Fuel Level Sender (liquid)
Box 12. Fill Check Valve
3. De-fuel the LNG tank. See Subject 110 for more
information. Fig. 1, Fuel Tank Plumbing Components
4. Close the fuel shutoff and vapor shutoff valves. 10.1 Remove the fuel fill fitting dust cap. See
See Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
5. Use a natural gas detector to test the area
10.2 Using compressed nitrogen or a wire
around the vehicle for natural gas.
brush, remove any dirt, debris, or water
6. Shut down all vehicle electrical systems. that may have collected in the fuel fill fit-
7. Cover the LNG tank and fuel lines with a metal ting and the station dispensing nozzle.
shield or welding blankets to prevent sparks or 10.3 Connect the station fueling nozzle to the
residue from falling on LNG equipment. tank fuel fill fitting.
8. Complete all necessary welding, then remove the 10.4 Connect an electrical ground clamp and
protective welding blankets or metal shield. cable to the fuel tank.
9. Start up the vehicle electrical systems. IMPORTANT: An LNG tank on a vehicle that
10. Fill the LNG tank with fuel. has not been operated in approximately ten
IMPORTANT: Close all windows and doors days is considered to be a hot tank. When
during the fueling process. Keeping windows fueling a hot tank, LNG entering the tank will
and doors closed allows for easier leak de- immediately vaporize, causing tank pressure
tection inside the cab after fueling. to spike above 250 psi (1724 kPa) and auto-
matically shutting down the station fuel
pump. To prevent the pump from shutting
2
10.9 Install the dust cap on the tank fuel fill fit-
3
ting.
11. Open the fuel shutoff and vapor shutoff valves.
4 See Fig. 1.
5
1
05/29/2009
6 f470534
1. Fuel Fill Fitting 4. Fill Vent Fitting
2. Fuel Outlet Line 5. Shroud Cover
3. Primary Relief Vent 6. Shroud Cover
Line Latches
Venting
WARNING
Compressed natural gas is highly flammable. Do
not attempt to transfer compressed natural gas
(CNG) from one vehicle to another, as a buildup
of static electricity could cause a spark and ig-
nite the fuel, which could cause bodily injury,
death, or severe property damage.
IMPORTANT: Only vent compressed natural gas
(CNG) outdoors in a safe location.
The fuel cylinder shutoff valves are installed in line
from top to bottom. Closing a fuel cylinder shutoff
valve will cut off the flow of CNG from that cylinder
and all of the fuel cylinders positioned above it in the
storage box.
Compressed natural gas can be vented from the fuel
cylinders in two ways.
• Run the engine until it stops.
• Open the CNG bleed valve on the manifold.
If only one cylinder needs to be purged, close the
fuel shutoff valves on the fuel cylinders positioned
above it. Then, either run the engine until the cylin-
ders are empty and the engine stops, or open the
bleed valve and allow the CNG to vent. At this time,
all CNG in the venting cylinder and the cylinders in
line below it will have vented.
Removal
1 2
WARNING
Compressed natural gas is highly flammable.
Refer to the safety precautions listed in Sub-
ject 100 before servicing the vehicle. Failure to
observe these precautions could lead to the igni- 3 4
tion of the natural gas, which could cause bodily
injury, death, or severe property damage.
NOTE: The pressure regulator and solenoid
valve are located inside the fuel panel.
1. Shut down the engine and apply the parking
brake. 8 7 6 5
2. Close the compressed natural gas (CNG) fuel
cylinder shutoff valves. See Fig. 1.
3. Start the engine and let it idle until the fuel lines
are empty and the engine stops. The gauges on
the fuel panel should now read at or near 0 psi.
4. Close the manual fuel shutoff valve on the fuel
panel.
5. Remove the two capscrews that secure the ac- 04/22/2010 f470554
cess cover to the fill panel, then remove the ac- 1. Fuel Cylinder Storage Box
cess cover. See Fig. 2. Save the capscrews. 2. Fuel Cylinder Shutoff Valves (5 valves on a 5-tank
6. Slowly open the bleed valve on the manifold to system)
relieve remaining fuel pressure within the sys- 3. High-Pressure Gauge
tem. See Fig. 3. 4. Low-Pressure Gauge
5. Fuel Fill Port
IMPORTANT: Some pressure may remain in the 6. Dust Cap
fuel system between the solenoid valve and the 7. Manual Shutoff Valve
8. Fuel Panel Access Door
engine. Use caution when loosening fittings, as
a small amount of gas may leak out. Fig. 1, CNG Fuel Cylinder Storage Box (5-cylinder
7. Drain the coolant from the cooling system. For system shown)
instructions, see Group 20.
13. Remove the two capscrews that secure the pres-
8. Remove the fitting that connects the manifold to sure regulator to the CNG fuel panel, then re-
the high-pressure fuel filter. move the pressure regulator, solenoid valve, and
9. Disconnect the wiring harness from the solenoid fuel filter as an assembly. Save the capscrews.
valve. 14. Once the assembly has been removed from the
10. Disconnect the coolant lines from the pressure fuel panel, each component can be disconnected
regulator. as needed.
11. Unscrew and remove the coolant warming bowl
from the pressure regulator. Installation
12. Disconnect the fuel inlet, fuel outlet, and low 1. Connect the pressure regulator, solenoid valve,
pressure gauge lines from the pressure regulator. and fuel filter as an assembly.
6
5
7
8 4 8
7
3
2
6
5
4 2 10 9
3 2 13 12 11
14
1
05/04/2010 f470558
1. Coolant Inlet Port
2. Coolant Outlet Port
3. Pressure Relief Valve
4. Pressure Regulator
5. Wiring Harness
1 6. Manifold Bleed Valve
7. Manifold
05/04/2010 f470557 8. Manual Fuel Shutoff Valve
1. Fuel Panel Access Cover 9. Fuel Fill Port
2. Capscrews (qty 2) 10. Filter Housing
3. Wiring Harness 11. Filter Bowl
4. Pressure Relief Valve and Cap 12. Filter Drain Plug
5. Coolant Outlet Line 13. Solenoid Valve
6. Coolant Inlet Line 14. Fuel Line To Cylinders
7. Fuel Inlet Line (from fuel cylinders)
8. Fuel Outlet Line (to engine) Fig. 3, CNG Fuel Panel Components
Removal
1 2
WARNING
Compressed natural gas is highly flammable.
Refer to the safety precautions listed in Sub-
ject 100 before servicing the vehicle. Failure to
observe these precautions could lead to the igni- 3 4
tion of the natural gas, which could cause bodily
injury, death, or severe property damage.
NOTE: The fuel fill port is located on the fuel
panel.
1. Shut down the engine and apply the parking
brake. 8 7 6 5
2. Close the compressed natural gas (CNG) fuel
cylinder shutoff valves. See Fig. 1.
3. Start the engine and let it idle until the fuel lines
are empty and the engine stops. The gauges on
the fuel panel should now read at or near 0 psi.
4. Close the manual fuel shutoff valve on the fuel
panel.
5. Remove the two capscrews that secure the ac- 04/22/2010 f470554
cess cover to the fill panel, then remove the ac- 1. Fuel Cylinder Storage Box
cess cover. See Fig. 2. Save the capscrews. 2. Fuel Cylinder Shutoff Valves (5 valves on a 5-tank
6. Slowly open the bleed valve on the manifold to system)
relieve remaining fuel pressure within the sys- 3. High-Pressure Gauge
tem. See Fig. 3. 4. Low-Pressure Gauge
5. Fuel Fill Port
7. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel fill port. 6. Dust Cap
7. Manual Shutoff Valve
8. Unscrew the mounting nut that secures the fill 8. Fuel Panel Access Door
port to the fuel panel.
9. Slide the fuel fill port out of the access panel. Fig. 1, CNG Fuel Cylinder Storage Box (5-cylinder
system shown)
6
5
7
8 4 8
7
3
2
6
5
4 2 10 9
3 2 13 12 11
14
1
05/04/2010 f470558
1. Coolant Inlet Port
2. Coolant Outlet Port
3. Pressure Relief Valve
4. Pressure Regulator
5. Wiring Harness
1 6. Manifold Bleed Valve
7. Manifold
05/04/2010 f470557 8. Manual Fuel Shutoff Valve
1. Fuel Panel Access Cover 9. Fuel Fill Port
2. Capscrews (qty 2) 10. Filter Housing
3. Wiring Harness 11. Filter Bowl
4. Pressure Relief Valve and Cap 12. Filter Drain Plug
5. Coolant Outlet Line 13. Solenoid Valve
6. Coolant Inlet Line 14. Fuel Line To Cylinders
7. Fuel Inlet Line (from fuel cylinders)
8. Fuel Outlet Line (to engine) Fig. 3, CNG Fuel Panel Components
WARNING 1 2
Compressed natural gas is highly flammable.
Refer to the safety precautions listed in Subject
100 before servicing the vehicle. Failure to ob-
serve these precautions could lead to the ignition
of the natural gas, which could cause severe
bodily injury, death, or property damage.
3 4
Welding
IMPORTANT: Follow all local, state, and federal
guidelines regarding usage and venting of com-
pressed natural gas (CNG).
8 7 6 5
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Close the CNG fuel cylinder shutoff valves. See
Fig. 1.
3. Start the engine and let it idle until the fuel lines
are empty and the engine stops. The gauges on
the fuel panel should now read at or near 0 psi
(0 kPa). 04/22/2010 f470554
4. Close the manual fuel shutoff valve on the fuel 1. Fuel Cylinder Storage Box
panel. 2. Fuel Cylinder Shutoff Valves (5 valves on a 5-tank
system)
5. Remove and save the two capscrews that secure 3. High-Pressure Gauge
the access cover to the fill panel, then remove 4. Low-Pressure Gauge
the access cover. See Fig. 2. 5. Fuel Fill Port
6. Dust Cap
6. Slowly open the bleed valve on the manifold to 7. Manual Shutoff Valve
relieve remaining fuel pressure within the sys- 8. Fuel Panel Access Door
tem. See Fig. 3.
IMPORTANT: Some pressure may remain in the Fig. 1, CNG Fuel Cylinder Storage Box (5-cylinder
fuel system between the solenoid valve and the system shown)
engine. Use caution when loosening fittings, as
a small amount of gas may leak out. NOTICE
7. Disconnect the wiring harness from the solenoid Disconnect the battery power and ground cables
valve. and any electronic control units (ECUs) installed
8. Use a remote 12-volt power source to activate on the vehicle. Electric currents produced during
the solenoid valve to drain any compressed natu- electric welding can damage various electrical
ral gas remaining in the fuel system between the components on the vehicle, such as alternator
solenoid valve and the engine. diodes and ECUs. Freightliner vehicle compo-
nents that typically use ECUs include electronic
engine, electronic automatic transmission, and
antilock braking system (ABS).
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis-
connect its ground terminal from the chassis
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from
6
5
7
8 4 8
7
3
2
6
5
4 2 10 9
3 2 13 12 11
14
1
05/04/2010 f470558
1. Coolant Inlet Port
2. Coolant Outlet Port
3. Pressure Relief Valve
4. Pressure Regulator
5. Wiring Harness
1 6. Manifold Bleed Valve
7. Manifold
05/04/2010 f470557 8. Manual Fuel Shutoff Valve
NOTE: CNG fuel panel may be located on the right side 9. Fuel Fill Port
of the vehicle. 10. Filter Housing
11. Filter Bowl
1. Fuel Panel Access Cover 12. Filter Drain Plug
2. Capscrews (qty 2) 13. Solenoid Valve
3. Wiring Harness 14. Fuel Line to Cylinders
4. Pressure Relief Valve and Cap
5. Coolant Outlet Line
6. Coolant Inlet Line Fig. 3, CNG Fuel Panel Components
7. Fuel Inlet Line (from fuel cylinders)
11. Cover the CNG tanks and fuel lines with a metal
8. Fuel Outlet Line (to engine)
shield or welding blankets to prevent sparks or
residue from contacting CNG equipment.
Fig. 2, CNG Fuel Panel Assembly
12. Complete all necessary welding, then remove the
the battery positive post, or disconnect the main protective welding blankets or metal shield.
connection at the ECU.
13. Start up the vehicle electrical system and con-
9. Shut down all vehicle electrical systems and dis- nect the battery.
connect the battery.
14. Connect the electrical harness to the solenoid
10. Let the vehicle sit in a well-ventilated area for at valve.
least 10 minutes.
15. Close the bleed valve on the manifold and open
IMPORTANT: Do not weld in areas directly adja- the manual fuel shutoff valve on the fuel panel.
cent to CNG tanks. Avoid direct heat exposure
16. Open the fuel cylinder shutoff valves.
on tanks.
17. Start the engine and check for gas leaks in the
fuel system.
Troubleshooting
See Fig. 1 for a schematic of all CNG fuel system
components.
See Fig. 2 for a flow chart to troubleshoot problems
with an engine running lean.
See Fig. 3 for a flow chart to troubleshoot a faulty
dash-mounted fuel gauge reading.
See Fig. 4 for a flow chart to troubleshoot a com-
pressed natural gas leak in the fuel system.
5
3
6
4 7
2
11
1 12 9
10
A
07/02/2010 f040810
A. Fuel flow to engine.
1. High-Pressure Gauge 5. Shutoff Valve 9. Low-Pressure Gauge
2. Bleed Port 6. CNG Fuel Cylinder(s) 10. Pressure Relief Valve
3. Fuel Fill Port 7. High-Pressure Solenoid Valve 11. High-Pressure Fuel Filter
4. Manifold 8. Pressure Regulator 12. Pressure Transducer
Is there at least
1000 psi on the high− Yes Is there excessive
pressure gauge? freezing of the fuel
piping or pressure
regulator?
No
Yes
Yes
Using a gas detector or bubble solution,
No check for a fuel leak
No
Yes
Problem
solved?
No No
Drain the low−pressure coalescing Problem Problem is not related
filter per the guidelines provided solved? to the fuel system
by the engine manufacturer
05/17/2011 f040811
Dash−mounted fuel
gauge reading incorrectly
Yes
IMPORTANT: Remove the fuel panel access cover. Open one fuel
Ensure vehicle is in a well−ventilated area. cylinder shutoff valve in order to pressurize the system
Hear or smell a Close all CNG fuel cylinder shutoff valves. up to the manual shutoff valve (which should remain
natural gas leak Ensure the engine is off. closed). Perform a leak test on the pressurized
Close the manual shutoff valve. components using a gas detector or bubble solution.
Is there a leak or
"hissing" sound found
on any of the CNG
piping components?
Yes
No
Contact
Is there a leak or Yes Agility Fuel Systems:
"hissing" sound found 1−909−350−7500 or
on any of the CNG www.agilityfuelsystems.com
piping components?
No
Yes
Is there a leak or
"hissing" sound found
on any of the CNG Problem is not related
piping components? Problem to the fuel system
solved?
No No
05/17/2011 f040813
7
6
5
4
3
8 4
1 10
2
1
12/20/2001 f490242
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
2. Loosen the clamp holding the muffler to the ex-
haust pipe.
3. Remove the fasteners holding the muffler mount-
ing clamps to the rubber isolators. See Fig. 1.
10/11/2001 f490244
4
Fig. 2, Installing the Muffler Mounting Bands
5
3. Push the front of the muffler over the end of the
6 exhaust pipe.
3
4. If needed, adjust the muffler mounting bands so
7 the ears align with the rubber isolators.
2
5. Loosely attach the muffler bands to the isolators.
1 6. Make sure the muffler is pushed all the way onto
the end of the exhaust pipe.
10/11/2001 f490243 7. Install a narrow-band exhaust clamp onto the
end of the muffler. Tighten it firmly.
1. Muffler
2. Muffler Mounting Band 8. Tighten the fasteners holding the muffler to the
3. Mounting Bracket isolators.
4. Frame Rail
5. Rubber Isolator 9. If applicable, install the tail pipe to the end of the
6. Hexbolt and Washer muffler, using a narrow-band exhaust clamp.
7. Hexnut and Washer Tighten the clamp firmly.
Fig. 1, Muffler Mounting Components 10. Start the engine and check for leaks. Tighten any
fasteners as needed.
4. Remove the muffler and tailpipe from the vehicle.
11. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Installation
1. If installing a new muffler, loosely install the muf-
fler mounting bands to the muffler. The bands
should be loose enough so you can rotate and
slide them. See Fig. 2.
2. Position the muffler, aligning the ears of the muf-
fler bands with the rubber isolators attached to
the frame.
7
6
5
4
3
8 4
1 10
2
1
12/20/2001 f490242
10/11/2001 f490243
1. Muffler
2. Muffler Mounting Band
3. Mounting Bracket
4. Frame Rail
5. Rubber Isolator
6. Hexbolt and Washer
7. Hexnut and Washer
Installation
1. Connect the forward section of the exhaust pipe
to the turbocharger. Tighten the exhaust clamp
just enough to hold it in place.
2. If it was removed, connect the muffler to the rear
section of the exhaust pipe. Make sure the ex-
haust pipe is all the way inside the end of the
muffler, then tighten the exhaust clamp snugly.
3. Place the rear section of the exhaust pipe and
the muffler in position and push the rear exhaust
pipe over the end of the front exhaust pipe.
8
7 9
4 5 6 7
2 3
10
11
12 4
10/16/2006 1 f490282
1. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 4. ATD Mounting Band 9. DPF Outlet Temperature Sensor
Ceramic Honeycomb Substrate 5. DPF Intake Pressure Sensor (connection to sensor housing
Openings 6. DOC Outlet Temperature Sensor not shown)
2. Marmon Fitting at Inlet from (connection to sensor housing 10. Exhaust Outlet Marmon Fitting
Turbocharger not shown) 11. DPF Outlet Pressure Sensor
3. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) 7. DPF V-Band Mounting Clamps 12. DPF Substrate Tubes
Intake Temperature Sensor 8. Sensor Housing
EPA07 emissions regulations limit NOx to just over 1 ally builds up, and the DPF must be removed and
gram per brake horsepower hour (g/bhp-hr) and par- physically cleaned.
ticulate matter cannot exceed 0.01 g/bhp-hr. EPA07
engines require ultralow sulphur diesel (ULSD) fuel, IMPORTANT: To minimize soot buildup on the
for low emissions and long life of the diesel particu- DPF, low-ash oil is necessary for maximum ser-
late filter (DPF), a honeycomb soot filter inside the vice between physical cleanings. Only low-ash
ATD. oil should be used in EPA07 engines.
Engine manufacturers use different methods and NOTE: Freightliner documentation deals only
equipment to reduce emissions from their engines, with removal and installation of the components
but an ATD is used on all of them. The ATD is al- of the ATS. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s
service literature for all testing, disassembly, procedures is followed, and the driver pushes
cleaning, and repair of the ATD and other com- the regeneration button on the dashboard. The
ponents. parked regeneration sequence varies accord-
ing to engine and vehicle configuration, but it
IMPORTANT: The ATS is part of an integrated must be exactly followed or regeneration can-
engine and emissions management system, not happen. Follow the exact sequence pre-
controlled by the ECM. Follow the engine manu- scribed for the vehicle, according to the engine
facturer’s procedures, and use the correct manufacturer’s literature.
equipment when diagnosing or working on any
part of the ATS.
Regeneration
There are two types of regeneration; passive and
active.
Passive regeneration happens whenever the ATD
internal temperature is 572°F (300°C) or higher. This
happens during normal loaded vehicle operation, and
exhaust gas temperature is no higher than normal.
Under load and at highway speeds, passive regen-
eration may be all that is necessary to keep the DPF
clear. But running light loads, or at low speeds, does
not generate enough heat in the ATD for passive re-
generation, and soot builds up in the DPF.
As soot builds up in the DPF, it creates back pres-
sure and decreases engine efficiency. So at intervals
determined by the ECM, which keeps track of mea-
surements such as engine hours, fuel consumed,
and mileage, the ATS raises the temperature inside
the ATD to burn the built-up soot to ash. This re-
duces the back pressure and allows the DPF to con-
tinue operating efficiently for tens of thousands of
miles.
During active regeneration, engine rpm rise to fast-
idle speed and extra fuel is injected into the ATD to
raise its interior temperature very high, over 1112°F
(600°C), and turn the trapped soot to harmless ash.
There are two types of active regeneration; at-speed
and parked.
• When conditions permit, the ECM automatically
initiates at-speed regeneration. The exact con-
ditions for regeneration vary, according to the
engine manufacturer’s design. Generally, it can
happen only when the vehicle speed is above
7.5 mph, and active regeneration stops when
the vehicle slows to 5 mph or below.
• Parked regeneration is initiated by a driver or
technician when the vehicle is safely parked
with the exhaust outlet well away from any
flammable substance, a specific sequence of
8
7 9
4 5 6 7
2 3
10
11
12 4
10/16/2006 1 f490282
1. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) Front End Honeycomb 7. DPF V-Band Mounting Clamp
2. Marmon Fitting at Inlet from Turbocharger 8. Sensor Housing
3. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) Intake Temperature 9. DPF Outlet Temperature Sensor (connection to
Sensor sensor housing not shown)
4. ATD Mounting Band 10. Exhaust Outlet Marmon Fitting
5. DPF Intake Pressure Sensor 11. DPF Outlet Pressure Sensor
6. DOC Outlet Temperature Sensor (connection to 12. DPF Ceramic Substrate
sensor housing not shown)
NOTE: It may be necessary to raise the vehicle, 2. Install the ATD mounting bands, but do not
or remove heat shields or body panels, to re- tighten them yet.
move the ATD. 3. Position the V-band clamps on the Marmon fit-
8. Move the ATD handling device slightly, so that tings and tighten them to the value shown in
the ATD positioning pin (see Fig. 4) clears its Table 1.
hole in the mounting bracket. Carefully remove 4. Tighten the ATD mounting bands to the value
the ATD from the vehicle. shown in Table 1.
NOTE: ATD component service procedures, 5. Connect the harness to the sensor housing and
such as cleaning the DPF or servicing the sen- the front temperature sensor.
sors, are documented in the engine manufactur- 6. Remove the ATD handling device.
ers’ service literature.
7. If a support was fastened around the exhaust
pipe, remove it.
Installation 8. Operate the vehicle and check for leaks.
1. Use the ATD handling device to move the ATD
into position, so the inlet and exhaust align with
the inlet and exhaust piping. Be sure the ATD
positioning pin engages its hole in the ATD
mounting bracket, or that the positioning marks
align.
A B
05/08/2007 f490285
A. Typical Horizontal ATD Layout B. Typical Vertical ATD Layout
1. Vertical ATD Lifting Ears
2
4
1 2
4
3 5
06/05/2007 f490274b
1. ATD Mounting 3. ATD Inlet End
Bracket 4. ATD Positioning Pin
2. Chassis Frame Rail 6
2
A
6
1
3
4 5
3
02/18/2008 f490313
10. Carefully remove the bellows ends and clamps • Support the ATD with a suitable jack, then
from the exhaust pipes, either by prying them off, loosen the ATD straps and rotate the ATD.
or by driving them off with a soft drift. Be careful • Rotate the ATD inlet pipe at the Marmon
not to damage the exhaust pipes. flange on the ATD.
IMPORTANT: Take the following measurements 15. With the two pipe ends in horizontal and vertical
before installing the bellows. alignment and the bellows not installed, measure
The main section of the ATD inlet pipe is a the distance between them. See Fig. 5.
larger diameter than the turbo outlet pipe. Make The distance between the pipe ends is to be at
sure you measure at the end of the pipe, where least 14 inches (35.5 cm), but not more than 14-
it inserts into the bellows. The two measure- 3/8 inches (36.5 cm).
ments should be identical. If they are not, If the distance is less than the above, remove
loosen the U-clamp nuts that hold the ATD inlet the turbo outlet pipe and the ATD inlet pipe, and
pipe to the frame-rail support bracket, and move cut off an equal amount from each pipe end, as
the pipe up or down as needed. needed; otherwise, go to the next step. Make
sure you remove all burrs from the cut ends of
NOTICE the pipes.
The ends of the ATD inlet pipe and the turbo out- IMPORTANT: If they were loosened, do not
let pipe must be in exact vertical and horizontal tighten the ATD mounting straps until the
alignment before installing the new bellows. If U-clamp nuts on the frame-rail support bracket
they are not aligned the bellows will be twisted, are tightened to their final torque. To do other-
and will fail after a short time. wise will affect the alignment of the exhaust
11. Attach the turbo outlet pipe to the turbocharger, pipes.
then to the bellows support bracket. Tighten the 16. When the horizontal and vertical alignment is the
clamps enough to hold the pipe in place. same for both exhaust pipes and the distances
12. Attach the ATD inlet pipe to the ATD and the between the pipe ends is correct, tighten the
frame-rail support bracket. Tighten the clamps U-clamp nuts on the frame-rail support bracket
enough to hold the pipes in place. that holds the ATD inlet pipe in place. See Sub-
ject 100 for torque values.
13. Using a ruler or tape measure, measure the ver-
tical distance between the end of the ATD inlet 17. Tighten the V-clamp that holds the inlet pipe to
pipe and the frame rail. See Fig. 2. Do the same the ATD. See Subject 100 for torque values.
for the end of the turbo outlet pipe. The two 18. If applicable, tighten the mounting straps on the
measurements must be the same. If the mea- ATD, then remove the jack.
surements are different, loosen the U-clamp nuts
19. Remove the turbo outlet pipe from the turbo-
on the frame-rail support bracket, and raise or
charger.
lower the ATD inlet pipe as needed. Tighten the
U-clamp nuts enough to hold the pipe in place. 20. Remove any dirt or soot from the outer surface
of the exhaust pipe ends to ease the installation
14. Using a ruler (or a T-square) and a tape mea-
of the new bellows.
sure, measure the distance between each pipe
end and the frame rail. See Fig. 3. If these two 21. Install the new bellows on the ATD inlet pipe,
measurements are different, do one or more of with the clamp nuts on top and facing outboard
the following adjustments (see Fig. 4): (Fig. 2).
• Check that the U-clamp on the bellows 22. Insert the end of the turbo outlet pipe into the
support bracket is installed correctly, and is bellows, then connect the pipe to the turbo-
not crooked. charger and to the new bellows support bracket.
See Subject 100 for torque values.
• Rotate the turbo outlet pipe at the turbo-
charger. 23. Tighten the bellows seal clamps; see Sub-
ject 100 for torque values.
1 A
2
C 2
C
B B
02/28/2008 f490317
A. Up-and-down adjustment to be done at this bracket.
B. Vertical measurements to be the same.
C. Horizontal (in-and-out) measurements to be the same.
1. ATD Inlet Pipe
2. Turbo Outlet Pipe (support bracket not shown)
Fig. 2, Rotation and Adjustment Areas for Exhaust Pipe alignment (vertical ATD installation shown)
24. Start the engine and check for leaks. Shut down
the engine, and tighten any clamps as needed.
1
1
2
A
A
1
2
02/13/2008 f490316
A. This distance must be the same at both exhaust-
pipe ends.
1. ATD Inlet Pipe 2. Turbo Outlet Pipe
10
5
3
9 11
2
1
7 8
13
12
10/15/2009 f040787
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 5. Turbocharger 10. Diesel Exhaust Fluid Tank
(EGR) Cooler 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 11. DEF Injector
2. EGR Valve 7. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) 12. Mixing Tube
3. Intake Throttle Valve 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 13. SCR Catalyst Chamber
4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 9. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
4 6 12
11 13
3
2 14
5
7
8
9
1
10
3 2
10/13/2009 f490379
1. ATD Inlet 6. Clamp 11. Bellows Pipe Support Clamp
2. Spherical Clamp Gasket 7. Compression Gasket 12. L-Bracket
3. Spherical Clamp 8. Slip-Joint Clamp 13. Bellows Pipe Support Bracket
4. ATD Inlet Pipe 9. Conical Gasket 14. Turbocharger Outlet Pipe
5. Bracket 10. Bellows
NOTE: Always use new exhaust pipe clamps 4. Remove the spherical clamp at the turbocharger
and gaskets when installing exhaust system outlet pipe. Discard the clamp and gasket.
components. 5. Remove the spherical clamp at the ATD inlet.
1. Shut down the engine and chock the tires. Discard the clamp and gasket.
6. Remove the turbocharger-outlet-pipe support
WARNING bracket clamp. Save the clamp for reuse.
7. Remove the ATD-inlet-pipe support bracket
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
clamp. Save the clamp for reuse.
tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours 8. If needed to make clearance, remove the ATD-
after the engine is shut down. inlet-pipe support bracket form the framerail.
To avoid potentially serious burns or material 9. Remove the bellows and ATD inlet pipe as an
damage: assembly.
• Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe- 10. On the workbench, replace the bellows as fol-
cially careful when opening it to expose the lows.
DPF.
10.1 Remove the bellows-to-ATD inlet-pipe slip-
• Wear appropriate protective gear. joint clamp and gaskets. Discard the
• Be careful not to place the ATD where flam- clamp and gaskets.
mable gases or other combustible materials 10.2 Slide the new slip-joint clamp, then the
may come into contact with hot interior parts. two new gaskets onto the ATD inlet pipe
in the order shown in Fig. 1.
6 1
7 5
6
5
4
3
2
10/07/2009 2 f490377
1. ATD 5. Retaining Pin
2. Clamping Straps 6. Clamping Strap Pin
3. Spherical Clamp 7. Clamping Strap Nut
4. Gasket
10/07/2009 f490381
NOTE: The ATD can be removed and installed Fig. 2, Step Removal
without disturbing the SCR catalyst. 5. Remove the step unit from the ATS brackets.
1. Set the parking brakes and chock the tires.
NOTICE
WARNING Component alignment is critical to proper instal-
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera- lation of ATS components. Before removing any
tures can remain hot enough to cause personal components, put alignment marks (use both
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours clocking and longitudinal marks where appli-
after the engine is shut down. cable) on all ATS components. This will aid in
faster and more accurate alignment during as-
sembly. Failure to accurately align all of the com- dure and make adjustments as needed. Improper
ponents of the ATS may result in component installation may lead to component failure.
damage. 2. Align the ATD, and install the new clamping
6. Make alignment marks on all of the components straps. Do not tighten at this time.
to be removed. 3. Connect the exhaust pipe from the engine and
7. Disconnect the wiring harness at the control box install the new spherical clamp and gasket. Do
on the ATD. not tighten at this time.
4. Position the mixer tube and install the new
NOTICE spherical clamp and gasket. Do not tighten at
this time.
It is not necessary to disconnect the lines from
the DEF metering unit to the DEF injector on the 5. Check all alignment marks, and tighten the
mixer tube unless one of these components is clamping strap nuts incrementally, first 15 lbf·ft
being replaced. However, it should be handled (20 N·m), then 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
carefully to prevent damaging the hose connec- 6. Check all alignment marks again. If not correct,
tions. loosen the clamp and repeat the previous step.
8. Remove the mixer-tube clamp at the ATD and Check the alignment on all connections. Make
support the mixer tube as needed. Discard the adjustments as needed.
clamp. 7. Tighten the spherical clamps at the ATD inlet and
9. Remove the clamp, and disconnect the exhaust the mixer tube connections 126 to 138 lbf·in
pipe from the engine at the ATD. Discard the (1425 to 1560 N·cm).
clamp. 8. Connect the wiring harness to the control box on
10. Position the ATD jack under the ATD. the ATD.
11. Remove the nuts from the ATD clamping straps. 9. Start the engine and check for leaks. Further
Remove the straps, and discard the straps and tighten the clamps on any leaking connections as
hardware. needed.
10. Install the steps.
NOTICE 11. Install the inner fender.
Be careful not to bump any of the sensors while
removing the ATD. The sensors are easily dam-
aged.
12. Carefully lower the ATD.
13. If replacing the ATD, transfer the control box
from the old ATD to the new one.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Always use new gaskets when
installing exhaust system components.
1. Using the jack, raise the ATD into position.
NOTICE
The ATD may rotate while tightening the clamps.
It is important that this is prevented. Check the
alignment during and after the clamping proce-
Removal WARNING
Refer to Fig. 1 for removal and installation of the Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
SCR catalyst components. tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
2 after the engine is shut down.
To avoid potentially serious burns or material
damage:
2
• Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe-
cially careful when opening it to expose the
DPF.
1 • Wear appropriate protective gear.
• Be careful not to place the ATD where flam-
3 mable gases or other combustible materials
may come into contact with hot interior parts.
4 2. Allow the ATS to completely cool before attempt-
ing to work on it.
7 3. Remove the right side inner fender. See
5 Group 60.
4. Remove the upper step plate. See Fig. 2.
5
6 6
6
6
5
5
10/13/2009 f490378
1. SCR Catalyst 5. Retaining Pin
2. Clamping Strap 6. Clamping Strap Pin
3. Spherical Clamp 7. Clamp, Exhaust Pipe
4. Gasket
NOTICE
Do not bump any of the sensors while removing
2 the SCR catalyst. The sensors are easily dam-
aged.
11. Remove the nuts from the SCR catalyst clamp-
ing straps. Discard the straps and hardware.
12. With help from an assistant, lift the SCR catalyst
out.
1
Installation
3 IMPORTANT: Always use new clamps and gas-
kets when installing exhaust system compo-
2 nents.
1. With help from an assistant, position the SCR
catalyst in the bracket, and align the alignment
marks.
2. Install the new clamping straps. Do not tighten at
10/07/2009 f490380 this time.
1. NOx Sensor Module 3. Position the mixer tube and install the clamp. Do
2. Mounting Bolts and Nuts not tighten at this time.
3. Chassis Harness Connector
4. If removed, connect the exhaust pipe to the SCR
Fig. 3, NOx Sensor Module Installation catalyst and install the clamp. Do not tighten at
this time.
NOTICE
NOTICE
Component alignment is critical to proper instal-
lation of ATS components. Before removing any The SCR catalyst may rotate while tightening the
components, put alignment marks (use both clamps. It is important that this is prevented.
clocking and longitudinal marks where appli- Check the alignment during and after the clamp-
cable) on all ATS components. This will aid in ing procedure and make adjustments as needed.
faster and more accurate alignment during as- Improper alignment may lead to component fail-
sembly. Failure to accurately align all of the com- ure.
ponents of the ATS may result in component 5. Check all alignment marks, and tighten the
damage. clamping strap nuts incrementally, first 15 lbf·ft
7. Make alignment marks on all of the ATS compo- (20 N·m) then 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
nents that will be removed. 6. Check all alignment marks again. If not correct,
loosen the clamp and repeat the previous step.
Removal NOTICE
Refer to Fig. 1 for removal and installation of the Component alignment is critical to proper instal-
ATS components. lation of ATS components. Before removing any
components, put alignment marks (use both
clocking and longitudinal marks where appli-
cable) on all ATS components. This will aid in
faster and more accurate alignment during as-
sembly. Failure to accurately align all of the com-
ponents of the ATS may result in component
damage.
3. Make alignment marks on all of the components
to be removed.
4. Disconnect the wire harness to the control mod-
ule on the ATD.
1 2 3 4 5 3 4 6 7 5. Remove the spherical clamp and gasket that
10/06/2009 f490375 connects the ATD inlet pipe to the ATD. Discard
1. Mixer Tube 5. Aftertreatmment the clamp and gasket.
2. Spherical Clamp Device (ATD)
3. Mounting-Strap Bolt 6. Spherical Clamp
6. Remove the spherical clamp and gasket that
and Nut 7. ATD Inlet Pipe connects the ATD to the mix-tube. Discard the
4. Mounting Strap clamp and gasket.
7. Position the jack and cradle under the assembly
Fig. 1, Cummins ISB/ISC 2HH ATD Installation and secure it with straps.
1. Shut down the engine and chock the tires. 8. Remove the bolts and nuts from the four mount-
ing straps.
WARNING 9. Lower the unit.
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera- 10. Remove and discard the mounting straps and
tures can remain hot enough to cause personal hardware.
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
after the engine is shut down. Installation
To avoid potentially serious burns or material
damage: 1. Position the assembly in the jack cradle and se-
• Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe- cure it with straps.
cially careful when opening it to expose the 2. Slide the unit under the vehicle and raise it into
DPF. position.
• Wear appropriate protective gear. 3. Install the new mounting straps.
• Be careful not to place the ATD where flam- 4. Position the assembly in the mounting straps,
mable gases or other combustible materials then install the clamp bolts and nuts. Do not
may come into contact with hot interior parts. tighten at this time.
2. Allow the ATS to completely cool before working IMPORTANT: Always use new gaskets when
on it. installing exhaust system components.
5. Connect the ATD to the ATD inlet pipe and install
the new spherical clamp and gasket. Do not
tighten at this time.
1 2 3 4 5 3 4 6 7
10/06/2009 f490376
WARNING
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
after the engine is shut down. 1
To avoid potentially serious burns or material
damage:
• Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe- 3
cially careful when opening it to expose the 2
DPF.
• Wear appropriate protective gear.
• Be careful not to place the ATD where flam-
mable gases or other combustible materials
may come into contact with hot interior parts.
10/07/2009 f490380
2. Allow the ATS to completely cool before working
1. NOx Sensor Module
on it. 2. Mounting Bolts and Nuts
3. Chassis Harness Connector
NOTICE
Fig. 2, NOx Sensor Module Installation
Component alignment is critical to proper instal-
lation of ATS components. Before removing any 6. Disconnect the wire harness to the control mod-
components, put alignment marks (use both ule on the SCR catalyst.
7. Remove the spherical clamp that connects the 11. Remove the jack and cradle.
SCR catalyst to the mixer tube. Discard the 12. Start the engine and check for leaks. Further
clamp. tighten the clamps on any leaking connections as
8. Remove the wide-band clamp that connects the needed.
SCR catalyst to the exhaust pipe. Discard the
clamp.
9. Position the jack and cradle under the assembly
and secure it with straps.
10. Remove the bolts and nuts from the four mount-
ing straps.
11. Remove and discard the mounting straps and
hardware.
12. Lower the unit.
Installation
1. Position the assembly in the jack cradle and se-
cure it with straps.
2. Install the new clamp straps.
3. Slide the unit under the vehicle and raise it into
position.
4. Position the assembly in the mounting straps,
and install the clamp bolts and nuts. Do not
tighten at this time.
IMPORTANT: Always use new gaskets when
installing exhaust system components.
5. Connect the SCR catalyst to the mixer tube and
install the new spherical clamp and gasket. Do
not tighten at this time.
6. Connect the SCR catalyst to the exhaust outlet
pipe and install the new wide-band clamp. Do
not tighten at this time.
7. Recheck the alignment of all components. Make
adjustments to the mounting straps (and
brackets) as needed then tighten the bolts 15
lbf·ft (20 N·m), then 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
8. Tighten the spherical clamp at the connection of
the SCR catalyst and the mixer tube 126 to 138
lbf·in (1425 to 1560 N·cm).
9. Install the NOx sensor module on the bracket on
the frame rail, then connect it to the chassis har-
ness.
10. Connect the wiring harness to the control box on
the SCR catalyst.
General Information 8. Disconnect and cap/plug the DEF lines from the
metering unit.
Removing the DDC 2V2 ATD and SCR catalyst as a 9. Remove the metering unit mounting plate with
unit is the quickest, and easiest, way to remove it the metering unit attached.
from the vehicle. The ATD or the SCR catalyst can 10. Loosen the lower fasteners on the diagonal sup-
be removed separately. When removing the compo- port brace. Disconnect the diagonal support
nents separately, mark all parts to assist in proper brace from the lifting bracket that attaches to the
assembly. Daimler Trucks North America LLC does vertical stanchion and swing it out of the way.
not recommend disassembling the ATD on the ve- Secure it as needed.
hicle. Remove the component following the instruc-
tions below, and then disassemble it on a workbench 11. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the intake to the
following the instructions in the engine manufactur- ATD. Support it as needed so there is no stress
er’s service literature. on the bellows.
12. Position the overhead lifting device over the ver-
WARNING tical stanchion and connect the hooks at the lift-
ing points. Apply enough pressure to the lift
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera- points to prevent the unit from dropping when
tures can remain hot enough to cause personal loosened.
injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
after the engine is shut down. 13. Remove the four mounting fasteners that attach
the vertical stanchion to the frame rail.
To avoid potentially serious burns or material
damage: 14. Lower the unit away from the vehicle.
• Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe-
cially careful when opening it to expose the Installation
DPF. 1. Using the overhead lifting device, position the
• Wear appropriate protective gear. unit at the frame rail, and install the mounting
fasteners. Tighten 159 to 201 lbf·ft (212 to 268
• Be careful not to place the ATD where flam- N·m).
mable gases or other combustible materials
may come into contact with hot interior parts. 2. Position the diagonal support brace and install
the mounting fasteners. Tighten the upper and
lower fasteners 49 to 63 lbf·ft (66 to 86 N·m).
ATD and SCR Catalyst
3. Connect the two 14-pin connectors at the sensor
Removal and Installation box.
4. Install the metering unit and mounting plate.
Removal
5. Connect the wiring connectors to the metering
Refer to Fig. 1 for the following procedure. unit.
1. Shut down the engine and chock the tries. 6. Connect the air lines to the metering unit.
2. Allow the ATS time to cool. 7. Connect the DEF lines to the metering unit.
3. Remove the heat shield. 8. Using a new seal, connect the exhaust pipe to
4. Remove the exhaust stack from the SCR cata- the ATD. See Fig. 2 for proper installation.
lyst. Tighten the clamp 114 to 126 lbf·in (1290 to 1425
N·cm).
5. Disconnect the two 14-pin connectors at the sen-
sor box. 9. Install the exhaust stack. Tighten the clamp 27 to
37 lbf·ft (37 to 50 N·m).
6. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the meter-
ing unit. 10. Install the heat shield. Tighten 13 to 17 lbf·ft (18
to 22 N·m).
7. Disconnect the air lines from the metering unit.
7
5
6
6
8
3
2 1
02/16/2010 f490406
1. Heat Shield 5. Sensor Box 8. Exhaust Stack
2. Inlet Clamp 6. Lifting Points 9. Exhaust Pipe
3. Vertical Stanchion 7. Metering Unit and Mounting
4. Diagonal Support Brace Plate
11. Start the engine and check for leaks. Tighten any
connections as needed.
ATD Removal and Installation
Refer to Fig. 3 for the following procedure.
6. Disconnect the two 14-pin connectors at the sen- 6. Connect the three temperature sensors.
sor box. 7. Position the diagonal support brace and install
7. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the meter- the mounting fasteners. Tighten the upper and
ing unit. lower fasteners 49 to 63 lbf·ft (66 to 86 N·m).
8. Disconnect the air lines from the metering unit. 8. Connect the two 14-pin connectors at the sensor
box.
9. Disconnect and cap/plug the DEF lines from the
metering unit. 9. Install the metering unit and mounting plate.
10. Connect the wiring connectors to the metering
unit.
13 14
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5 2
1
01/27/2010 f490407
1. Heat Shield 6. Pressure Tube 11. Outlet Clamp
2. Exhaust Pipe 7. Clamping Strap 12. Metering Unit and Mounting
3. Intake Clamp 8. Lifting Points Plate
4. Clamping Strap Nuts 9. ATD 13. Exhaust Stack
5. Temperature Sensor 10. Diagonal Support Brace 14. Sensor Box
11. Connect the air lines to the metering unit. 13. Install the heat shield.
12. Connect the DEF lines to the metering unit. 14. Start the engine and check for leaks. Tighten any
connections as needed.
SCR Catalyst Removal and 7. Install the heat shield. Tighten 13 to 17 lbf·ft (18
to 22 N·m).
Installation 8. Start the engine and check for leaks. Tighten any
connections as needed.
Refer to Fig. 4 for the following procedure.
Removal
1. Shut down the engine and chock the tries.
2. Allow the ATS time to cool.
3. Remove the heat shield.
4. Remove the exhaust stack from the SCR cata-
lyst.
5. Remove the SCR catalyst inlet clamp.
6. Disconnect the two temperature sensors and the
NOx sensor.
7. Disconnect the DEF nozzle.
8. Position the overhead lifting device over the SCR
catalyst and connect the hooks at the lifting
points. Apply enough pressure to the lift points to
prevent the unit from dropping when loosened.
9. Remove the clamping strap nuts.
10. Lift the SCR catalyst away from the vehicle.
Installation
1. Using the overhead lifting device, position the
SCR catalyst on the vertical stanchion, and se-
cure it in position with the mounting clamps. Do
not tighten the straps at this time.
2. Align the connection with the ATD, and using a
new seal, install the clamp. See Fig. 2 for proper
installation. Tighten the clamp 114 to 126 lbf·in
(1290 to 1425 N·cm).
3. Check all alignment marks, and tighten the
clamping strap nuts incrementally, first 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m), then 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
Install the jam nuts. Using a back-up wrench,
tighten 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
4. Connect the two temperature sensors and the
NOx sensor.
5. Connect the DEF nozzle.
6. Install the exhaust stack. Tighten the clamp 27 to
37 lbf·ft (37 to 50 N·m).
8
9
7
10
2
3
4
4
1
01/27/2010 f490408
1. Heat Shield 5. NOx Sensor 8. DEF Nozzle
2. Clamping Straps 6. Lifting Points 9. Exhaust Stack
3. Exhaust Pipe 7. SCR Catalyst Inlet Clamp 10. Clamping Strap Nuts
4. Temperature Sensor
DEF freezes to a slush consistency at 12°F (-11°C). For additional operating information, see the
Because DEF can freeze, the DEF lines and meter-
Business Class M2 Driver’s Manual.
ing unit are designed to purge whenever the engine For additional information on and definitions for
is shut down to prevent damage. Complete purging EPA10-compliant systems and components, see
of the DEF lines requires approximately five minutes Section 01.02, EPA07/EPA10 Engine Information.
after the engine is shut down. For additional information on the ATS, see Sec-
DEF in the tank is allowed to freeze while the vehicle tion 49.02, Aftertreatment System, EPA10.
is non-operational. The DEF temperature sensor de-
tects when the temperature of the DEF in the tank is
approaching its freezing point. After the engine has
been started and the engine coolant reaches a cer-
tain temperature, the coolant valve opens, allowing
the coolant to flow through the coolant lines inside
the DEF tank. The lines transfer heat, causing any
frozen DEF in the tank to thaw and preventing liquid
10
5
3
9 11
2
1
7 8
13
12
10/15/2009 f040787
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 5. Turbocharger 10. DEF Tank
(EGR) Cooler 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 11. DEF Injector
2. EGR Valve 7 Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) 12. Mixing Tube
3. Intake Throttle Valve 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 13. SCR Catalyst Chamber
4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 9. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
6-Gallon Tank
Removal
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 4
and chock the tires.
5
2. Open the hood. 10/08/2009 6 f490383
3. Drain the coolant from the cooling system. For 1. Vent 3. Coolant Inlet
instructions, see Group 20. 2. DEF Level and 4. DEF Outlet
Temperature Sensor 5. DEF Inlet
4. Place a clean drain pan underneath the tank to Wiring Harness 6. Coolant Outlet
catch draining DEF. Uncontaminated DEF may
be reused. Fig. 1, 6-Gallon Tank Ports (Detroit Diesel shown)
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after 8. Disconnect the coolant lines from the supply and
shutting down the engine to disconnect the DEF return ports.
lines. Complete purging of the DEF lines re- 9. Disconnect the vent line.
quires approximately five minutes after the en-
gine is shut down. 10. If another chassis-mounted component is located
directly aft of the DEF tank, check to see if the
5. Disconnect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses component is mounted close enough to prevent
from the DEF lines at the tank. the tank from sliding off the mounting studs. If
so, remove the nuts, bolts, and washers that se-
NOTICE cure the tank assembly to the frame casting, and
remove the assembly from the frame casting.
To disconnect a DEF line, push the line coupling
in towards the male connector to move the hold- 11. Remove the two capscrews that secure the tank
ing clip to the unlocked position, then compress and retaining washers on the mounting studs.
the prongs of the holding clip and pull the line See Fig. 3.
off of the male connector. Failure to properly re- 12. Remove the two tank retaining washers from the
move a DEF line can result in damage to a line tank mounting studs.
coupling or DEF fitting.
13. Slide the tank off of the mounting studs.
6. Disconnect the DEF lines from the supply and
return ports and let the DEF drain into the drain Installation
pan. See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2.
1. Slide the tank onto the mounting studs.
7. Disconnect the wiring harness from the tank
header unit.
1
2 3
3 4
4
2
5
1
7
5
10/30/2009 6 f490388 10/15/2009 6 f490382
1. DEF Inlet 4. Coolant Inlet 1. DEF Pump
2. Vent 5. DEF Outlet 2. DEF Tank
3. DEF Level and 6. Coolant Outlet 3. Coolant Valve
Temperature Sensor 4. Coolant Supply Line
Wiring Harness 5. Tank Mounting Bracket
6. Tank Retaining Washer (Qty 2)
Fig. 2, 6-Gallon Tank Ports (Cummins shown) 7. Capscrew (Qty 2)
8. Pump Mounting Bracket
2. Install two tank retaining washers on the tank
mounting studs. Fig. 3, 6-Gallon Tank Mounting Assembly
3. Install two capscrews onto the mounting studs, 8. Connect the DEF supply and return lines to the
securing the tank and retaining washers on the DEF ports on the back of the tank.
tank mounting studs. Tighten the capscrews 11
to 18 lbf·ft (15 to 25 N·m). 9. Connect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses to
the DEF lines at the tank.
4. If the tank assembly was previously removed
from the frame casting, install the tank assembly 10. Connect the wiring harness to the tank header
on the frame casting. Tighten the four tank as- unit.
sembly mounting bolts 112 lbf·ft (152 N·m). 11. Fill the DEF tank.
5. Connect the vent line. 12. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks. For
6. Connect the coolant supply and return lines to instructions, see Group 20.
the coolant ports on the tank. 13. Close the hood.
7. Remove any white DEF crystals from the DEF
ports on the tank and the DEF line couplings. 13- or 23-Gallon Tank
IMPORTANT: To connect a DEF line, push the
line coupling onto the DEF port male connector, Removal
then pull back gently on the coupling to engage
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or
the holding clip in the locked position.
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations.
2 4 3
4
5 5
2
6
1
10/15/2009 f490371
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after Fig. 5, 13- or 23-Gallon DEF Tank Mounting Assembly
shutting down the engine to disconnect the DEF
lines. Complete purging of the DEF lines re- 13. Remove the tank from the mounting cage.
quires approximately five minutes after the en-
gine is shut down. Installation
9. Disconnect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses 1. Install the tank into the mounting cage.
from the DEF lines at the tank.
EPA10-compliant vehicles have a diesel exhaust fluid 1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
(DEF) pump module (Fig. 1) mounted in a protective and chock the tires.
box to the back of the DEF tank.
2. Open the hood.
3 3. Drain the air system.
4
4. On a vehicle equipped with a Detroit Diesel en-
gine, drain the coolant from the cooling system.
For instructions, see Group 20.
2
5 5. Place a drain pan underneath the pump to catch
any DEF or remaining coolant that drains out.
6. Remove the four mounting bolts that secure the
protective cover over the pump. Remove the
cover. See Fig. 2.
1
6
8
7
10/05/2009 f490372 5
6
1. Wiring Harness Connector 7
2. DEF Inlet Port
3. DEF Outlet Port (to metering unit) 4
4. DEF Outlet Port (to tank)
5. Compressed Air Port 3
6. Coolant Outlet Port
7. Air Bladder Fill Valve
8. Coolant Inlet Port
crystals does not mean the system has a leak. 1. Protective Cover
Replacing fittings or components is not neces- 2. Protective Cover Mounting Fasteners
3. DEF Pump
sary unless there is a system failure or a fault 4. Pump Mounting Bracket
code. 5. Pump Mounting Fasteners
6. Mounting Bracket Fasteners
Removal 7. DEF Tank Mounting Cage
8. Disconnect the coolant lines and air line, if 6. Connect the air line and coolant lines, if
equipped, from the pump. equipped, to the pump.
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after 7. Connect the wiring harness to the pump.
shutting down the engine to disconnect the DEF 8. Place the protective cover over the pump and
lines. Complete purging of the DEF lines re- install the four mounting bolts that secure the
quires approximately five minutes after the en- protective cover to the pump mounting bracket.
gine is shut down. Tighten the bolts 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m).
9. Disconnect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses 9. On a vehicle equipped with a Detroit Diesel en-
from the DEF lines at the pump. gine, fill the cooling system and check for leaks.
For instructions, see Group 20.
NOTICE 10. Fill the air system.
To disconnect a DEF line, push the line coupling 11. Close the hood.
in towards the male connector to move the hold-
ing clip to the unlocked position, then compress
the prongs of the holding clip and pull the line
off of the male connector. Failure to properly re-
move a DEF line can result in damage to a line
coupling or DEF fitting.
10. Disconnect the DEF lines from the pump.
11. Loosen and remove the four nuts that secure the
pump mounting bracket to the tank mounting
cage.
12. Remove the DEF pump and mounting bracket.
13. Remove the three fasteners that secure the
pump to the mounting bracket, and remove the
pump from the bracket.
Installation
1. Using the three pump mounting fasteners, se-
cure the pump to the pump mounting bracket.
Tighten the fasteners 26 lbf·ft (35 N·m).
2. Install the four nuts that secure the pump mount-
ing bracket to the DEF tank mounting bracket.
Tighten the nuts 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
3. Remove any white DEF crystals from the DEF
ports on the pump and the DEF line couplings.
IMPORTANT: To connect a DEF line, push the
line coupling onto the DEF port male connector,
then pull back gently on the coupling to engage
the holding clip in the locked position.
4. Connect the DEF supply and return lines to the
three DEF ports on the pump.
5. Connect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses to
the DEF lines at the pump.
Replacement
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations. 5
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after
shutting down the engine to disconnect the bat-
tery ground cable. Disconnecting the battery
ground cable too soon will prevent purging of
the DEF lines after the engine is shut down.
2. Disconnect the batteries.
3. Place drain pans underneath the DEF pump and
the DEF metering unit to catch any draining DEF.
10/07/2009 f490369
4. Disconnect the DEF line heater wiring harnesses
from the DEF lines at the tank, pump, and meter- 1. Wiring Harness 4. DEF Supply Line
ing unit. 2. Coolant Supply Line 5. Coolant Return Line
3. DEF Return Line
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or 1. Coolant Valve Wiring 3. Coolant Return Line
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations. Harness 4. Coolant Supply Line
2. DEF Level and 5. DEF Return Line
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, Temperature Sensor 6. DEF Supply Line
and chock the tires. Wiring Harness
2. Remove the tank from the vehicle. See Sub- Fig. 1, DEF Tank Header Unit (Detroit Diesel shown)
ject 100 for instructions.
3. Remove the header unit mounting capscrews 1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and washers that secure the header to the tank. and chock the tires.
4. Remove the header unit from the tank. 2. Remove the tank from the vehicle. See Sub-
ject 100 for instructions.
5. Install a new header unit into the tank.
3. Rotate the header lockring counter-clockwise to
6. Ensure that the header unit is situated securely loosen it, then remove the lockring.
on the raised lip of the tank, and is not tilted to
the side. 4. Remove the header unit from the tank by pulling
the assembly straight up, then tilting it to pull the
7. Install the mounting capscrews and washers to horizontal end clear of the tank; see Fig. 2.
secure the header unit to the tank. Tighten the
capscrews 5 lbf·ft (7 N·m). 5. Install a new header unit by tilting it to insert the
horizontal end into the tank. Once the horizontal
8. Connect the DEF level and temperature sensor segment is inside the tank, tilt the header unit
wiring harness. back to vertical to settle the bracket on top of the
9. Install the DEF tank on the vehicle. See Sub- tank.
ject 100 for instructions. 6. Ensure that the header unit is situated securely
on the raised lip of the tank, and is not tilted to
Replacement, 13- or 23-Gallon the side.
Tank 7. Install the header lockring and rotate it clockwise
to secure it to the tank.
The DEF header unit on vehicles with a 13- or 23- 8. Remove any white DEF crystals from the DEF
gallon DEF tank is secured to the top of the tank, ports on the header unit and the DEF line cou-
and contains the engine coolant lines that run plings.
through the tank, the coolant valve, the DEF level
9. Install the DEF tank on the vehicle. See Sub-
sensor, and the DEF temperature sensor. See Fig. 1.
ject 100 for instructions.
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations.
10/30/2009 f490384
Replacement
Detroit Diesel
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF in ac- 4
cordance with EPA regulations.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 3
and chock the tires.
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after
2
shutting down the engine to disconnect the bat-
tery ground cable. Disconnecting the battery
1
ground cable too soon will prevent purging of
the DEF lines after the engine is shut down. 06/02/2009 f470535
1. Filter Case 3. DEF Pump
2. Disconnect the batteries. 2. Filter Element 4. Cover
3. Remove the four mounting bolts that secure the
protective cover over the pump. Remove the Fig. 1, DEF Filter Replacement, Detroit Diesel Engine
cover. The pump is located next to, or inboard of,
the DEF tank. 8. Connect the batteries.
4. Unscrew the filter cartridge; see Fig. 1. The car-
tridge includes both the filter case and the filter
Cummins
element, which are replaced as a unit. Verify that IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF in ac-
the filter element was removed with the case. If cordance with EPA regulations.
the filter element was not removed, use a suit-
able tool to remove it from the pump. 1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
Discard the filter element and case.
IMPORTANT: Wait at least five minutes after
5. Lubricate the O-rings with clean DEF. shutting down the engine to disconnect the bat-
6. Check the new filter cartridge to ensure that the tery ground cable. Disconnecting the battery
O-ring end of the filter element is facing out of ground cable too soon will prevent purging of
the cartridge. Install the cartridge into the DEF the DEF lines after the engine is shut down.
pump. Tighten the filter cartridge 22 to 25 lbf·ft
2. Disconnect the batteries.
(30 to 34 N·m).
3. Remove the four mounting bolts that secure the
7. Place the protective cover over the pump and
protective cover over the pump. Remove the
install the four mounting bolts that secure the
cover. The pump is located inboard of the DEF
protective cover to the pump mounting bracket.
tank.
Tighten the bolts 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m).
2
5
1 3
09/15/2009 f490358
1. DEF Tank 3. Filter Cap 5. Filter Element
2. DEF Pump 4. O-Ring
Flushing
If a contaminant has been introduced to the DEF
tank, but the engine has not been started, complete
the following steps.
1. Apply the parking brake and chock the tires.
2. Place a suitable container underneath the DEF
tank to catch any draining DEF.
IMPORTANT: Discard contaminated DEF or
coolant in accordance with EPA regulations.
3. Remove the DEF and contaminant from the tank.
On vehicles with a 6-gallon DEF tank, disconnect
the DEF line from the DEF outlet port and let the
DEF drain into the drain pan.
On vehicles with a 13- or 23-gallon DEF tank,
use a siphon to empty the DEF from the tank.
4. Remove the DEF tank. See Subject 100 for in-
structions.
5. Thoroughly flush the tank with water until the
tank is free of all contaminants.
6. Install the DEF tank. See Subject 100 for in-
structions.
Chassis
Inputs Module Outputs
J1939 (CHM)
Inputs Outputs
Expansion
Inputs Module Outputs
Inputs (EXM) Outputs
01/16/2002 f543943
Headlamps
H Bulkhead
OFF
Module
P (BHM)
Parklamps
LH Headlamp Low Beam
J1939
11/13/2001 f543944
Multifunction Turn
Signal Switch J1939
Fault Code
Bulkhead
Module
(BHM)
HI/LO/PASS
ICU
LH Headlamp Low Beam
J1939
03/14/2006 f543945
J1939
Chassis Bulkhead
Module Module
(CHM) (BHM)
Park Brake
Pressure
Switch
J1939
PARK
BRAKE
SWITCH
Park Brake
Air
Management
Unit
(AMU)
ICU
02/17/2006 f543946
Abbreviations and Terms FMI Failure Mode Indicator. The part of a J1708/
J1587 or J1939 fault code that identifies how a part
Use the following list to determine the meaning of the of or item on a device failed.
abbreviations and terms used in Group 54. FMVSS Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
AAVA Auxiliary Air Valve Assembly HSD High Side Driver
ABS Antilock Braking System HVAC Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning
Activate To begin operating. ICU Instrumentation Control Unit
Address A unique location code for a device or data. Input A device that feeds a signal into the system, or
AMU Air Management Unit signal that feeds a message into the system.
Reference Parameters
Reference parameters program the BHM to know
which outputs to activate for each input and where
those outputs are located. The two types of refer-
ence parameters are default and optional. Every ve-
hicle has one default reference parameter and zero
to any number of optional reference parameters.
The default reference parameter programs the BHM
with features that come standard on each vehicle,
such as headlights. Optional reference parameters
program the BHM for vehicle-specific features, such
as heated mirrors.
Each reference parameter is given a part number
just like any other hardware part on the vehicle. A
reference parameter only programs the parameters
of the BHM.
Reflashing or reprogramming the software is sepa-
rate from programming the parameters, just as it is in
an engine controller.
3.1 Key in the vehicle serial number, or the device, connector, pin location, circuit number,
last six digits of the VIN. and action. This table will be used to make circuit
changes to the BHM, CHM, or EXM as neces-
3.2 Key in the reference parameter numbers
sary to add the features.
from all the bills of material that are being
added at that time.
The screen will indicate if the feature can
Circuit Isolation
be added with the existing control mod- If features must be added outside of the multiplexed
ules or if an additional EXM is needed. electrical system, there are a few options for obtain-
See Fig. 1 for a view of the response ing authorized interface points.
screen. See Table 1 for possible re-
sponses and necessary actions. • Data code 353-XXX provides various options
for vehicle wiring interfaces, including back of
4. To add a reference parameter to the vehicle, use cab, frontwall, and end-of-frame locations. Data
the Features screen in ServiceLink. It is best to code 148-XXX provides options for engine wir-
have ServiceLink connected to the host and the ing, and data code 34C-XXX provides options
vehicle at the same time. If this is not possible, for transmission wiring. Go to www.Access-
connect ServiceLink to the host and add the ref- Freightliner.com for more information.
erence parameter, then take the ServiceLink
computer to the vehicle and update the vehicle. • Battery power connections must be made at
06/12/2002 f610616
5. When the reference parameters are applied to the battery through one of the four available
the BHM, ServiceLink will provide any necessary MEGA® Fuses.
wiring instructions via a table with columns for
• Inside the cab, there are splice packs behind mentioned are the only authorized points. Do
the center dash that provide interface points for not splice in to any other electrical wiring.
ignition voltage, ground, and panel lamp illumi-
nation.
IMPORTANT: When bypassing the multiplex
electrical system, the interface points previously
Device Communications
For information on cross-referencing a J1587 Mes-
sage Identifier (MID) and a J1939 Source Address
(SA), see Table 1.
General Information
The on-highway environment places severe demands
on a vehicles electrical system. The following mate-
rial describes the methods for repairing and sealing
electrical connections that will provide the durability
necessary for the automotive environment.
There are four distinct components for making a wire
repair that will withstand:
• the mechanical demands of vibration, strain,
and thermal cycling
• the electrical requirement of oxidation free con-
ductivity
• the insulating properties to resist shorting to
adjacent objects
• the ability to seal for corrosion protection
When troubleshooting electrical systems, consider
body height and suspension travel. Interference and
strain may be caused by normal frame flexing and
body accessories that are not apparent when a ve-
hicle is stationary.
Parts and Tools 2. Crimp the splice connector onto the wires. Use
the type of crimp tool that makes a dimple in the
connector. The dimple must be at least 3/16 inch
Parts are available through the Parts Distribution
wide or there will be too much space inside the
Centers (PDCs) in packages of 25 connectors. Use
connector and the solder will not flow into the
the connectors and adhesive lined shrinkable tubing
wire. This crimp provides the mechanical reten-
shown in Table 1 when making a wiring splice.
tion needed. See Fig. 2.
Tools needed for wiring repair using solderless con-
nectors include the following.
• A dimple-type crimp tool with a minimum 3/16
inch width. See Fig. 1 for an example of a
proper crimp tool. A typical manufacturer for
this tool is Thomas & Betts.
• A heat gun rated at 1000°F (538°C).
08/03/2010 f545673
A B
1 1
08/03/2010 f545674
A. The solder band is completely melted.
B. Insulation rupture; gently shake off the solder bead.
OK 1. Adhesive Fillet
08/03/2010 f545668
NOTE: Even with two crimps, there is too much air gap;
the solder will not bond.
Fig. 3, Wrong Tool Being Used and a Crimp That Will
Fail
07/30/2010 f545676
A. The fillet of adhesive at the ends of the shrink tube
indicate a complete seal.
Parts and Tools 2. Slide a shrinkable solder sleeve from the kit onto
one of the wires.
Parts are available through the Parts Distribution 3. Place the wires that will be spliced into each end
Centers (PDCs) in kits with material for 50 splices. of the barrel connector. See Fig. 2 for an ex-
This kit may be used on 16 to 14 gauge (1 to 2 mm) ample of the splice.
wire. 4. Crimp each end of the barrel using a dimple-type
Tools needed for wiring repair using solderless con- crimp tool to secure the wires. See Fig. 1 for an
nectors include the following. example of a proper crimp tool.
• A dimple-type crimp tool with a minimum 3/16 5. Pull test the wires by hand to ensure the crimp is
inch width. See Fig. 1 for an example of a mechanically solid.
proper crimp tool. A typical manufacturer for 6. Slide the shrinkable solder sleeve onto the barrel
this tool is Thomas & Betts. connector so the solder band is at the center of
• A heat gun rated at 250°F (121°C). the barrel connector.
7. Heat the splice using a heat gun rated at 250°F
(121°C) until the sleeve has completely shrunk
against the wire and the solder flows into the
barrel connector. A small fillet of adhesive may
be visible at the ends of the connector. See
Fig. 3.
8. Slide the shrinkable tubing over the splice and
apply heat with a heat gun rated at 250°F
(121°C) until it has completely shrunk against the
A
wire insulation. A small fillet of adhesive should
be visible at the ends of the shrinkable tubing.
08/03/2010 f545671
A. Minimum 3/16 inch width.
Procedure
1. Dress the wires to be spliced by stripping the
insulation to expose 1/4 inch of copper. Slide a
piece of the shrink tubing from the kit onto one of
the wires.
A
2
1
11/04/94 f540392a
A. 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)
1. Wire End 3. Solder Sleeve 4. Shrink Tube
2. Barrel Connector
07/30/2010 f545672
1. Adhesive Fillet
Parts 5
General Specifications See Table 2 for standard wiring circuit numbers and
descriptions.
See Table 1 for standard wiring color-coding.
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
1 Battery Cable, Ground 156 286 291
6 Battery Cable, Positive 224 281 291 292 293 295
14 Cab Power, Main 156 224 277 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 320 321
15 Starter, Crank Circuit 146 155 156 157 158 286 291 320 895
16 Alternator, Main Power 124 125 286 320 836 846
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
18 Air Pressure Warning 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
19 Voltmeter 286 320 836 846
20 Headlamp, Left 27D 288 304 312 320 659
21 Headlamp, Right 27D 288 304 312 320 659
22 Headlamp, Low and High Beam 27D 288 304 312 320 659
23 Tail Lamps 288 294 296 301 302 304 30A 320 335
24 Horn, Electric 288 320 321 726
25 Horn, Air 288 320 321 726
27 Road Lamp 288 313 314 320
28 Fog Lamp 288 313 314 320
29 Instrument Panel Lamps 27D 288 296 302 304 30A 312 320 335 659 732 811 81B
Transmission Temperature and
30 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 863 864
Filter
Transmission Aux Controls and
31 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 863 864
Temp
34 Engine Oil Pressure 165 286 320 852
35 Engine Oil Temperature 286 320 854
36 Stop Lamps 288 294 296 301 320 335 486 838 840 877 880 882
38 Turn Signal 288 294 296 298 299 300 301 320 335 811
39 Stop/Turn Combination Lamp 288 294 296 301 320 335 880
40 Fan, Windshield/Sleeper 287 320 716 718
271 287 294 300 302 305 311 312 314 316 318 319 31A 31B 31C 31D
41 Dome/Interior Lamp
31E 320 322 324 325 327 328 32B 32C 469 470
42 Axle Oil Temperature, Forward 288 320 865 866
43 Axle Oil Temperature, Rear 288 320 865 866
44 Axle Oil Temperature, Center 288 320 865 866
45 Receptacle, Trailer 173 285 296 297 303 306 307 308 309 310 320 321 331 334 335
46 Marker Lamps 288 296 302 304 30A 320 335
47 Fuel Level 288 320 844 847
Fuel Control and Level, Natural
48 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 288 320 811 814 844 847 860
Gas
52 Ignition Switch 156 285 306 320 321
55 Data Recorder 283 286 320 343 810 817
57 12V Power Outlet/Lighter 284 287 320 785
58 Heater, Auxiliary 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70C 723
73 Utility Lamps 287 288 318 31J 320 327 329 57W
74 Starter Mag Switch, Solenoid 155 156 157 158 286 320 895
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
75 Starter Mag Switch, Ground 146 155 156 157 158 286 895
76 Mirror Heat 320 656 744 74E
78 Spot Lamp 316 320 57V
81 Ignition Switch Control Devices 156 285 304 306 320 811 814 860
82 Starter Mag Switch Power 155 156 157 158 286 320 895
86 Axle Lock Solenoid 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
87 Axle Lock 288 320 452 865 866 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
88 Lubrication System, Automatic 288 594
90 Sander, Road 288 320 329
130 132 138 140 141 154 166 286 287 288 320 467 700 703 70A 70C
91 Heater, Diesel Fired Auxiliary
723
94 Air Dryer, Heated 288 480 48A 880
95 Speaker, Radio 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
97 Air Conditioner 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70B 723
98 Heater – A/C Motor, Blower 130 156 283 285 286 287 320 321 700 703 70A 70B 70C 723
99 Fuel Solenoid, Engine Run 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320
102 Parking Lamps 288 296 302 304 30A 320 335
Door Activated Lamps Courtesy/
108 320 324 325 32B 675 676 677 67E 67F 811 814 860
Footwell/Door
113 Baggage Compartment Lamps 287 320 322 324 325 32C
117 Speed Sensor + 283 286 320 343 810 817
118 Speed Sensor – 283 286 320 343 810 817
198 199 286 320 732 810 812 830 836 838 83A 840 841 842 843 844
119 Coolant Temperature, Engine
845 846 847 852 854 856 858 862 864 865 866 867 868 869
120 Back-Up Lamps 288 294 320 471 721
121 Brake, Engine 128 129 164 283 286
122 Back-Up Alarm 288 294 320 471 721
Alternator, Voltage Regulation/
123 124 125 156 286 836
Rectifier
125 Park Brake Indicator/Warning 288 294 296 301 320 335 486 838 840 877 880 882
132 Alternator Charge Monitor 124 125 156 286 836
137 Alternator Indicator/Relay 124 125 156 286 836
140 Oil Pressure, Engine 286 320 852
149 Fan Manual Controls, Engine 273 276 286 320
154 Auxiliary Air Pressure 288 320 486 838 840 865 866 877 880 882
155 Axle Lift Controls 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
157 Power Mirror Controls 320 656 744 74E
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
162 Tachometer Sensor + 283 286 320 812 819
163 Tachometer Sensor – 283 286 320 812 819
166 Engine Starting Aid, Ether 132 154 286 320 467
168 Hour Meter, Engine 286 320 812 813 81A 837 852
Fifth Wheel Slide Lock and
170 173 296 297 303 307 308 309 310 331 334 581 87E
Controls
171 Brakesaver, Cat 128 129 286 343 34B 34C 34W 353
172 Clock 287 320 687 738
173 Coolant Level, Engine 152 286 320 856
182 Fuel Pressure 320 841 843 845
183 Air Cleaner Restriction, Engine 329 472
193 Cab Tilt Pump 288 320 670
196 Fuel Water Separator Heater 110 127 220 288
200 PTO Controls 148 283 286 288 320 372
203 Exhaust Brake 128 129 164 283 286
204 Seat Belt Indicator/Warning 320 74F 756 760 763
208 Axle Control, Tri Axle, Steer Lock 288 320 376 452 865 866 874 876 878 87A 87B 87C 87F 896 898 900
209 Axle, Two Speed Shift Control 283 286 288 320 343 376 810 817 876 87C 898
Power Distribution Module, Outside
210 224 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 320 321
Cab
211 Security System, Rockwell 287 320 656 787
214 Generator, Auxiliary 124 125 286 599
218 Pyrometer 286 320 858
219 Turbo Pressure 286 320 842
221 Suspension Dump Controls 288 320 87D 888 910
222 Headlamp Dimmer Controls 27D 288 304 312 320 659
160 283 285 286 288 320 330 343 345 34B 34C 355 376 732 736 810
223 Transmission Controls, Auto Shift
811 813 814 817 876 87C 898
224 Transmission Controls 286 288 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 376 876 87C 898
225 Air Pressure Gauge, Primary 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
226 Air Pressure Gauge, Secondary 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
227 Air Pressure Gauge, Application 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
Transmission Controls Power 160 283 285 286 320 330 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 732 736 811 813
232
Supply 814
234 Engine Fan Controls 273 276 286 320
236 Transmission Neutral Indicator 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
242 Seat Controls 320 74F 756 760 763
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
243 Shore Power, Power Inverter 274 277 284 287 307 320 336 337 33C 785
244 Speed Limiter, Vehicle, Hewitt 150 164 283 286
246 Electric Fuel Pump 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320
250 Predictive Cruise Control 149 283 286
253 Cab Tilt Indicator 288 320 670
Roof Mounted Emergency Lamp/ 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
254
Strobe 33A
255 Advertising/Identification Lamp 288 296 302 304 30A 319 320 335
256 Optional Power Wire 285 286 306 320 321
261 Axle Lock, Controlled Differential 288 320 865 866
262 Retarder, Allison Transmission 128 129 286 343 34B 34C 34W 353
281 Oil Filter Change Indicator 165 286 320 852
Suspension Electric and Air
285 288 320 87D 888 910
Controls
286 Fuel Water Separator Indicator 122 127 288 320 80F 844 845 847
294 Air Tank Auto Drain Valve 288 480 48A 880
295 Radio, AM/FM/CB/Disc 287 320 746 748 74D 750 751 752 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
299 Air Temperature, Exterior 320 860 867
300 Radio, Audio Signal 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
303 Low Air Pressure 322 486 838 840 877 880 882
315 Windshield Wipers and Controls 320 321 660 66B
320 Windshield Washer 320 321 660 66B
Diagnostic Connector Power/Tach 160 283 286 320 32A 330 338 343 725 732 733 736 811 812 813 819
331
Ext Test 835 888
338 HVAC Controls 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70B 70C 723
339 LBCU/ICU/Gauge Power/Data 320 732 811 814 860
347 Shutter, Engine Fan 273 276 286 320
359 Headlamp On Signal, LBCU/ICU 27D 288 304 312 320 659
363 Power Windows 320 654 656 66A
364 Power Windows, Rear 320 654 656 66A
Receptacle # 2, Trailer 7-Way, ISO
372 173 296 297 303 307 308 309 310 331 334 335
3731
160 283 285 286 296 308 320 330 331 332 333 335 343 34B 414 447
376 Antilock Brake Controls
44G 44H 454 490 493 732 736 811 813 814
377 Antilock Brake Sensors 308 330 331 332 333 414 447 44G 44H 454 490 493
160 283 285 286 308 320 330 331 332 333 343 34B 414 447 44G 44H
378 Antilock Brake Valves
454 490 493 732 736 811 813 814
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
271 27D 288 294 300 302 304 305 311 312 314 316 318 319 31A 31B
379 Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
31C 31D 31E 31F 320 322 324 325 327 328 469 470 659
388 Hydraulic Brake Power/Controls 288 320 486 49A 880
Optional Circuit, Cab/Chassis, 160 283 285 286 306 320 321 329 330 343 34B 472 732 736 811 813
399
Customer Specified 814 860
Optional Circuit, Cab/Chassis,
400 329 472
Customer Specified
402 Engine Start/Stop System, TAS 152 156 162 283 285 286 287 320 321
Emergency Lamp, Alternating, 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 287 288 318 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G
406
Access 31J 320 327 33A 57W
407 — —
Emergency Vehicle Accessory and 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
408
Warning Lights 33A
410 Emergency Siren and Bells 288 320 321 726
416 Refrigerator/Video Power 284 287 320 737 75B 785
417 Mobile Phone Power 320 789 79C
424 Headlamp Wiper/Washer 288 304 312 320
425 PNDB/CLDS Controls 224 277 281 285 291 292 293 295 306
427 Satellite Tracking System 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
428 Battery Isolator Protection System 124 125 156 224 277 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 836
430 Windshield Wiper Heater 320 321 660 66B
431 Starting Aid, Engine Preheater 132 154 286 320 467
432 Seat Controls 320 74F 756 760 763
433 Data Recorder 160 286 320 813
434 Suspension Controls, ECAS 283 286 288 320 343 810 817 87D 888 910
435 Seat Belt Indicator/Warning 320 74F 756 760 763
436 Camera, Rear and Side View 160 288 320 736
437 Instrument Control Unit/LBCU 320 486 732 811 814 838 840 860 877 880 882
439 Engine ECU and Controls 106 128 129 148 152 156 162 164 283 286 372
106 128 129 148 149 152 156 160 162 164 273 276 283 285 286 301
440 Engine ECU and Controls
320 330 343 34B 732 736 811 813 814 856 880
441 Engine ECU and Controls 106 148 164 165 283 286 320 852
442 Data Recorder/Data Logger 160 286 320 813
443 Door Locks 320 655 656 787
Obstacle Detection System/VORAD
444 160 288 320 736 73B 73C
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
130 156 224 277 281 285 287 291 292 293 295 306 320 700 703 70A
447 Battery Cutoff Protection System
70B 723
448 Tail Gate Controls 288 320 329
198 199 283 286 288 320 343 732 810 812 817 830 836 838 83A 840
Fueling Data Recording and
449 841 842 843 844 845 846 847 852 854 856 858 862 864 865 866 867
Transmitter
868 869
450 Mirror Dimming Controls 320 656 744 74E
453 Optional Customer Specified Wiring 164 283 285 286 306 320 321 329 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 472
Inflatable Restraint and Seat
454 160 283 285 286 320 330 343 34B 725 732 736 811 813 814
Pretension
Instrument Left/Right Side
455 320
Selection
457 Dash Controls, Datalink, (BPU) 164 283 286
Step Deployment Unit, Passenger
458 320 675 676 677 67E 67F
Side
459 Steering Pump Controls 539
460 Transmission-Automatic, Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
461 Transmission-Automatic, Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
462 Headlamps, Auxiliary 27D 288 304 312 313 314 320 659
463 Headlamps, Auxiliary Right 27D 288 304 312 313 314 320 659
464 Transmission, Smart Shift Control 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
465 Headlamp, Flashing Control 27D 288 304 312 320 659
466 Land Departure System 160 288 320 736
467 Engine Coolant Flow Systems 152 286 320 856
Obstacle Detection System/VORAD
468 160 288 320 736 73B 73C
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
479 CB Radio Antenna Coaxial 320 748 751 752
480 Switched Auxiliary Air Pressure 288 320 486 49A 880
481 Chassis Expansion Module 160 283 285 286 320 329 330 343 34B 472 732 736 811 813 814
482 Firetruck Pump Controls 148 283 286 372
106 148 152 156 160 162 164 283 285 286 320 330 343 34B 372 732
483 Engine ECU and Controls
736 811 812 813 814 819
484 Tire Chains 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
485 Public Address System 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
283 286 288 320 732 74F 756 760 763 811 812 814 819 860 867 877
486 Vehicle Information Center
882
Engine Emissions Detection and
487 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320 811 814 860
Monitor
488 Brake Wear Indicator 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
Bus Door and Window Sensing 287 288 294 300 320 327 329 654 655 656 66A 675 676 677 67E 67F
490
and Warning 700 703 723 787 811 814 860
491 Engine Compartment Lights/Buzzer 287 320 327 329 656 787 811 814 860
492 Engine ECU and Controls 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320 372
493 All Wheel Drive Controls 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
494 Transmission Shift Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
Emergency Medical Service 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
495
Accessories 33A
496 Steering Wheel Controls 329 472
497 Transmission Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
498 Transmission Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
499 Engine ECU and Controls 164 283 286
504 Dome/Interior Lamp 287 320 322 324 325 32C
264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
506 Aerial Equipment Systems
33A
507 MUX Control, MSF/CGW 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
508 CAN Datalink 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
509 Firetruck Pump And Hose Controls
33A
265 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C