Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Cochin
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C.M.Dinesh Mani
Mayor of Cochin
Kerala, India.
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Introduction
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Etymology
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Though believed to be a
corruption of the Sanskrit ‘go sri’,
meaning prospe- rous with cows,
the word Cochin’s first portion
definitely is the Malayalam word
kochu meaning small or young.
The town is called Balapuri in the
Kerala Mahatmyam and other
Sanskrit works. Nicolo Conti (15th
century) and Fra Paoline in the
17th century say that it was called
Kochchi after the river connecting
the backwaters and the sea. Some
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Geography
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Rivers
The main rivers in this area are the Periyar
and Muvattupuzha. The Periyar flows
through all the taluks except Cochin. In
the rainy season the water level in the
Muvattupuzha river rises 25-30 feet in
certain areas, but in the summer season
there is barely a foot of water in some
places.
Lakes
A portion of the Vembanad Lake falls
within Cochin Taluk. On the northern side
of the North Paravur Taluk lies the
Kodungallur Kayal and on the southern
side, the Varapuzha Kayal.
Geology
The geological succession is as follows:
• Recent sediments (Alluvium, Teri’s,
Brown sands etc.), Mud banks, Laterite.
• Archaean-Basic Dykes, Charnockites,
Gneisses.
• The entire western part is covered by
Cochin Azhi (backwaters), viz. Vypeen recent sediments.
Kara on the northern and Fort Cochin to
Flora
Chellanam on the southern sides.
The flora is characteristically tropical. The
Sea Coast, Estuaries, Lakes, Islands etc. heavy rainfall combined with moderate
The seacoast, about 30 miles in length, temperature and fertile soil support
falls entirely in the Cochin Taluk. The luxuriant vegetation.
Cochin Harbour, a major natural harbour, The common plants found in the lowland
is also situated in this Taluk. The coastal area that forms a somewhat
backwaters in the Cochin and Kanayannur narrow belt are Launaea, Ipomoea,
Taluks are dotted with small islands, the Portulaca, Hydrocotyle, Spinifex, Lippia,
main ones being Willingdon, Vypeen, Moniera, Cynodon, Digitari, Cyperus etc.
Ramanthuruthu, Ponjikkara (Bolghatty Coconut is extensively cultivated.
Island), Vallarpadom, Kumbalam,
There are many tidal mangrove
Cheranelloor etc. Most of these islands
formations of Rhizophora, Avicennia,
are very small, varying in extent from 4
Sonneratia, Acrostichum etc.
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45 per cent of the annual rainfall is Skies are heavily clouded to overcast in
received. The rainfall gradually decreases the South-West Monsoon season whereas
after July and picks up again by the end in the North-East Monsoon months the
of September/early October, when the sky generally gets overcast by the evening
North-East Monsoon sets in. when it rains in intense bursts with thunder.
In May and the post-monsoon season of
A good amount of rain, mostly as a few days in December, skies are
thundershowers, occurs in April and May. generally moderately to heavily clouded.
The variation in the annual rainfall from In the other months clear or lightly clouded
year to year is not large. skies are common.
Temperature, Relative humidity and Winds
Cloudiness
Winds are generally light to moderate with
Temperatures begin increasing after some increase in force in the summer and
February. March and April are generally monsoon seasons. In the South-West
the hottest months. In the interiors the day Monsoon season the winds are mainly
temperature may be a little higher than Westerly or North-easterly. During the rest
the coastal region. The air is very humid of the year winds are North-easterly in the
throughout the year, the relative humidity morning and from between South-West
being generally over 90 per cent. and North-West in the afternoon.
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For this century Cochin has been Kerala’s Vembanad estuary, gave this place the
most powerful financial, commercial, and name ‘Cochin’.
cultural centers. The legacy of this power Cochin City lies at the sea mouth of seven
and prosperity can be seen throughout major rivers flushing out into the Arabian
the city, its port, islands, core and Sea, which start from the Western Ghats
hinterlands. and travel through Kerala’s midlands,
Geographically Cochin forms a natural lowlands and coastal areas. They carry
harbour at the Arabian Sea and falls on sediments right from the hills and deposit
the favorite trade channels from west. The all around the sea mouth creating the
city had developed with the old city, the huge estuarine system of the Vembanad
defense establishment and the port on Lake. The lake stretches 70Kms south, and
islands and it anchors on the mainland 35Kms north of the sea mouth and further
where the newer parts of the city had penetrates the land as fingers of
cherished and established. backwaters. Similar backwater formations
can be found all over Kerala’s coastal
Kochu a small branch of the Periyar River,
zones. The unique geographic features of
which flows in to the sea mouth of the
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the region, the cultural landscapes with Yavanas (Greeks and Romans), and
moulded by the natural systems and oldest Babylonians around 1500BC. The region
trade history in the world with its had trade links with Arabs and further with
characteristic natural and built Portuguese, Dutch and English people in
environment thus reflecting an image, give the later years.
rise to the identity of the Vembanad A series of port locations were found in
Region. the line where the lowlands meet the
coastal areas and according to the
HISTORY OF THE REGION AND ITS
geological history of the region, the
DEVELOPMENT
present coastline of Kerala was formed in
The Vembanad backwater region is one the last 1000-1200 years of its natural
of its kind, listed in the proposals for processes. This had changed the locations
World’s out-standing land-scapes, is a of the ports according to the receding sea
major attraction for tourism also. Seafood, and formation of sandbars and islands of
agriculture, coconut cultivation and the coastal zone, where finally Cochin
related activities are the predominant became a major port of the region in the
cultural backgrounds of this region mid 20th century.
combined with the region’s long history
of international trade. In fact this trade The region has a history of intensive trade
history is one of the oldest in international of spices brought from the hills through
trade linking east and the west. It started the 7 rivers, which ignited a series of
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cultural interactions and invasions. The settlement patterns thus reflect the
Buddhist culture found here belonged to regions ecological history. The trade, folk,
the before Christ period. Few among the linguistic and livelihood history, and the
Jews who were dislocated from the Middle historical development of its natural setting
East had reached and settled here. is all reflected in the architectural
Christianity started here even before it character of the region’s settlement
spread in Europe. Islam started here at patterns. Vembanad region dominated by
the time when it was born. The first the backwaters with its unique cultural
instances of colonialism that had expressions lives in delicate ecological
happened in the world were in this region balancing mechanism.
by Portuguese and further by Dutch. The
trade history also included lots of ethnic NATURAL ECOLOGICAL FEATURES
groups from all over India coming to this The physical spread of the Vembanad
region and handling its various aspects region refers to the low lying areas
of trade surrounding the Vembanad Lake, which
also is the delta of Pullot, Periyar,
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CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE NATURAL ECO-
Muvattupuzha, Achencoil, Pamba,
LOGICAL FEATURES
Manimala and Meenachil Rivers
originating from the Western Ghats. The GEOMORPHOLOGY
region lies between 90 15’ – 90 35’ N Physiographically, this area is unique in
latitude and 76 0 23’ – 76 0 35’ E the sense that the entire region is a product
longitude. It covers an area of 870 km2 of fluvial-estuarine agencies modified by
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The lowlands, where the region under period of 200BC to 600AD. Tripunithura,
consideration is situated, were supposed another town south east of Kodungallur
to have been covered by a thick forest. and Parur, is said to have Greek trade
(See Fig.1 around the same time, which also found
a place in Ptolemy’s map. Vaikom is
PHASE II – (2.5 MILLION YEARS AGO shown as another port town in the same
TO 2ND CENT AD) accounts during 1st century AD and further
The lowlands were inundated by a south Kottayam too had evidences of
transgression of the sea caused by a Greek Trade.
sudden natural calamity (earth quake or
Purakkad (Porka) was also there in
forest fire) that led to the subsidence of
Ptolemy’s map and around that time in
the forest beneath the sea. Traces of the
1 st and 2 nd Century AD Niranam
buried forest are found in this region such
(Nelcynda) was described as a port. St.
as Kari lands, 50cm to 1m below ground
Thomas in his travel reached Niranam
level in the form of logs of wood in the
and established a church here.
process of being transformed into peat.
The forest mentioned as the Khandava All this clearly says that the Geographical
Vana in Mahabharat and the fire that burnt evidences match with the Port Locations
it down is also attributed to this incident of that time and tells us that the Arabian
by some authors. Sea actually extended upto Niranam and
Vaikom in south with a projection of land
From LANDSAT images of the coastal
mass at the southern end from Mavlikkara
region, a chain of inland sand dunes can
to Purakkad. Where as in North
be traced and the sea is believed to have
Thripunithura, Kodungallur and Parur all
extended to this line. This line also
becoming part of the trade activity sort of
coincides with the series of port towns
defines the sea extent of that time. (See
mentioned in the 1st century records by
Fig 2
Pliny and in Ptolomey’s map. Interestingly
from their accounts we also learn that PHASE III – (2ND CENT TO 10TH CENT
Kodungallur (MUZIRIS) used to have spice AD)
trade with Babylonians before 1000BC. This phase is responsible for the formation
In 1st century AD Budhism flourished, Jew of the linear mass of land on the west of
colony was formed and St. Thomas had the Vembanad Kayal and the profile of
come to Muziris. It must be noted that the Vembanad Kayal itself in its present form.
entire Vembanad Lake region used to flush The dune chains that lie in the western
out to the sea through its mouth at side of the present Kayal today, were
Kodungallur. It was the Chera capital upto initially parts of a sandbar formed by
12th century AD. estuarine deposition by the combined
Parur, which is geographically close to action of the detritus carrying rivers and
Kodungallur, has been found with the turbulent monsoon sea and a sandbar
evidences of Greek Trade during the that was inhabited in due course of time.
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It is also possible that the Vembanad Kayal mouth for the Lake region at Cochin. The
is probably the result of an embayment traders in this region slowly started to
of a large graben in the offshore, as move towards south to Cochin and
pointed out by the configuration of the Alleppey in the hope of establishing trade
Kayal in the northern part. It can thus be towns. Purakkad developed strong trade
inferred that the Vembanad Kayal is the links with Portuguese in 1528 AD and
zone of unfinished deposition “of structural Dutch in 1642 AD. It was part of the
origin and subsequently modified by Chempakasseri Kingdom at that time.
fluvio- estuarine deposition”. The marshy Subsequently, Njarakkal started to gain
land left behind by the deposition of the attention through its geographical feature
river system parallel to the recession of of mud banks, which allowed it to have a
the sea made the estuary to confine itself all weather port. Looking at the
to the present Vembanad Kayal. This vast geographical advantage of the region, in
marshy tract of land had mangrove 18th Century AD, Raja Kesavadas built a
vegetation and fauna like crocodiles and New Port town of Alleppey in consultation
jackals. with the Dutch. Up to 1980 Alleppey was
These natural activities have led to the a major port with heavy international
formation of the long sandbar from activities. After this, from the geographic
Kodungallur to Alleppey and subsequently evidences, we learn that the mud bank
the formation of small islands in the entire phenomenon was slowly moving towards
region. (See fig3) north on the shore, which has taken away
Alleppey’s status of being an all weather
PHASE IV – (10TH CENT TO 20TH CENT port. The advent of Cochin as a major
AD) port has seen the decline of Alleppey.
This phase saw major uphill land During this period Cochin was slowly
development and cultivation activities in developing into an international trade
the catchment of the Seven Rivers, which region. The great flood in Periyar washed
flushed through the Vembanad Region, away 600 feet of land creating the sea
resulted from the major demand for mouth and natural harbour of Cochin.
spices, which was initiated by the trade
In 1440 AD Cochin City grew around
activities. Due to disturbances in land
Mattancherry settlement as a city of 5
masses the rivers started to bring in more
miles of circumference and Chinese and
sediments and siltation happened in a
Arabs used to trade with the natives of
greater pace
the town. The Cochin Rajas ruled Cochin
Now, looking at the historical evidences in the period from 12th century onwards.
in relation to Trade activities of the region, (Before that it was part of Vempalinad
in 1341 AD a great flood happened in under the Chera rule.)
Periyar and the port of Kodungallur silted
In 1500 AD Portuguese had come to
up. This geographical phenomenon led
Cochin after Calicut and subsequently
to the development of another big sea
Portuguese Fort (Manuel Kota) was built
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in Fort Cochin. In 16th Century AD Jews opened and subsequently major railroad
moved in from Kodungallur (Muziris) to connections were introduced connecting
Sanda Cochin and many ethnic groups Islands of Cochin to the main land. After
from North India arrived. All this showed Independence Cochin was declared as
that being the geographic feature of the major port by the Govt. of India
Sea Mouth of the Vembanad Region has
given it the locational advantage to NATURE HAS ITS FINAL HAND
become a major trade zone
Recently in 2004 AD the Islands of
In 1662 AD, Dutch invaded and killed Vypeen, Vallarpadam and Bolghatty were
Raja of Cochin in a battle and a Dutch all connected to the mainland through
Fort was built over Portuguese Fort. Later Goshree Bridges Project. Cochin is
they built the Bolghatty Palace. 1790 AD planning to elevate its global status by
Sakthan Thampuran takes over as Cochin another major project of the Proposed
Raja and in his time an Anchal postal Transshipment terminal at Vallarpadam
system started here. Island.
As one closely watches nature’s activity
in the region of Cochin sea mouth one
1795 AD British took over Cochin from
would be surprised to learn that nature is
the Dutch. And subsequently in 1840 AD
still modifying the shape and volume of
Cochin rulers shifted to Ernakulam.
land masses in the islands of cochin. In
Ernakulam Market and associated
last 10 years huge amount of land was
settlements flourished during this period.
accreted at the west of Vypeen and the
The opening of Suez Canal in 1869 AD Beach at Fort Cochin was washed away
emphasized the importance of Cochin Port to a great extent. The whole of Vembanad
as a coaling station. Dredging of port and Region today, is a major Tourist attraction
formation of Willingdon Island was for its outstanding Cultural Landscape.
initiated under the design and direction The constant interaction between man
of Sir Robert Bristow in 1920 AD. and nature in this region has seen an
Ernakulam – Sharanur railway line was absolute symbiosis.
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History of Cochin
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Canal excavation in 1963, relics of Village till the end of the 13th century.
Monolithic culture dating from 200 BC In the 13th and 14th centuries the Zamorins
to 1st century AD were found. Terracotta who had become the masters of a vast
male figurines with beard and female dominion in northern and central
forms in worshipping posture along with Keralam, posed a serious threat to the
elephant tusks, potsherds with engravings Perumpadappu Swaroopam. Due to this
etc. were found at this site. the headquarters was shifted to Cochin
Very little is known about the history of around 1405 AD. Accounts of Ma Huan,
Cochin prior to the arrival of the a Chinese Muslim attached to the suite of
Portuguese as neither inscriptions nor Cheng Ho the envoy of Emperor Yong Lo,
literary works throw much light. Cochin is who visited Cochin in 1409 AD, mentions
not even mentioned in any of the earlier that the king or the ruler is of solar race
foreign notices of Malabar. Neither in the and a sincere believer in Buddhism. His
accounts of Pliny, Ptolemy, Marco Polo or account gives details about the types of
Ibn Batuta do we find any mention,
though they give detailed accounts
of places situated to the north and
south of Cochin. Though it is
generally believed that Cochin port
was formed only as late as 1341 there
is also the possibility of its existence
as a small harbour even earlier. In
1341 the heavy floods that took place
in the Periyar River silted up
Cranganore Harbour (Kodungallur).
Useless for purposes of trade, this
decline in the importance of
Cranganore led to Cochin’s rise into
prominence and commercial
supremacy. The Cochin royal family
is much more ancient. The ruler of
Cochin State following the break-up
of Kulasekhara (1102 AD) was a king
whose authority was confined to
Cochin and adjoining areas. The
Cochin ruler from the Perumpadappu
family was the descendant of the
Kulasekharas of Mahodayapuram in
the maternal line. They were based
at Chitrakudam in Perumpadappu
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clothes, houses, classes of men, trade etc. build a factory at Cochin and the
Another account of this time is that of Portuguese promised to add Calicut to the
Nicolo Conti, an Italian traveller who Cochin Raja’s dominions. At Cabral’s
visited Cochin in 1440 AD. suggestion, a few leading Nairs were
taken as hostages in the ships but to the
Conflict between Cochin and Calicut Raja’s displeasure Cabral left in panic at
By the beginning of the 15th century the the sight of the Calicut fleet. Anxious to
Zamorin had grown in power and prestige get Portuguese assistance he took no
and acquired suzerainty over the ruler of reprisals against the Portuguese left on
Cochin. The Zamorin’s possession of shore. Joao Da Nova, the next Portuguese
Cranganore, steadfast ally in the ruler of captain who was received with warmth,
Edappally, and internal strife among the had to face the hostility of the Zamorin.
members of the Perumpadappu The indignant Portuguese King sent Vasco
Swaroopam were the factors that provided Da Gama next and after bombarding
him with a decisive advantage over the Calicut and annihilating the Arab
Cochin ruler. merchants, he arrived at Cochin on 7
November 1502. Alarmed at the
Towards the close of the 15th century the Portuguese commercial triumphs at
internal dissensions in the Perumpadappu Cochin, the Zamorin in anger at the
Swaroopam gave an opportunity to the Cochin Raja’s refusal to heed his
Zamorin to interfere in its affairs and effect ultimatum, marched into the heart of the
further territorial conquests. On the eve Cochin Kingdom at the head of a large
of the arrival of the Portuguese in Keralam, army. The war between Calicut and
Cochin was a small principality dependent Cochin began on 1 March 1503. Cochin
on Calicut. It’s ruler was Zamorin’s Raja was soon forced to take refuge in a
partisan, a member of the Mootha temple at Vypeen. The Zamorin ordered
Thavazhi. The Anchikaimals or the five the town of Cochin to be burnt and went
nobles who held sway over Ernakulam to blockade the island of Vypeen.
and neighbouring territories on the coast However, on account of the monsoon
also proclaimed their allegiance to the setting in, he raised the blockade and after
Zamorin and repudiated the authority of fortifying Cochin with a ditch and rampart
the Cochin Raja. and leaving a strong force there, departed
for Calicut. He intended to renew the
The Portuguese Period
blockade after the Onam festival in
It was during this time that the Portuguese August. The arrival of a small Portuguese
Admiral, Pedro Alveraz Cabral, landed at fleet under Francisco De Albuquerque
Cochin on 24 December 1500. The alarmed the Calicut army at Cochin and
Cochin Raja, Unni Godavarma, received they soon left the city in panic. The ruler
his emissaries with great warmth and of Cochin was then conducted
friendliness. A treaty of friendship was triumphantly to Cochin and re-established
signed. The Portuguese were allowed to
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Synod of Diamper during Kesava Rama Zamorin. On their way back to Colombo,
Varma’s reign (1565-1601). In the latter Paliath Achan, the leading nobleman of
half of the 16 th century, two foreign Cochin and the minister of the Vettat
travellers, Caesar Frederick and Ralph princes boarded Van Goen’s ship and
Fitch, visited Cochin. Another sought Dutch protection. Accordingly a
Englishman, Sir Thomas Herbert, treaty was concluded on March 12,1661
described Cochin on the eve of Dutch by which Achan placed himself under
capture as the chief place the Portuguese Dutch protection and undertook to serve
have in the Indies where they carried on them faithfully.
trade in spices, drugs and all other According to the Batavia Council’s
merchandise. decision to renew the campaign on the
The causes for the decline of Portuguese Malabar Coast in 1661, a Dutch fleet was
in Kerala, which began soon after the time despatched to Cochin under the
of Albuquerque, were both internal and command of Admiral Van Goens. It
external like the intermarriages, forcible captured Quilon on 7th December and
conversions, religious persecution etc. laid siege to the Cranganore fort on 3
January 1662. Finally they landed troops
Dutch conquest of Cochin on 7 at Vypeen. They built a fort called New
January 1663 Orange and bombarded Cochin from
The Dutch East India Company began to there. A battle was fought in front of the
despatch ships to India from 1595 Mattancherry Palace and Cochin forces
onwards and after many encounters with were forced to withdraw with heavy loss
the Portuguese and their allies they in men and material. Van Goens
succeeded in establishing their power in compelled Rani Gangadhara Lakshmi to
several places in India. Under Admiral recognise her deposed nephew as the
Van Goens, Quilon was captured in King of Cochin. In the meantime, the
December 1658. Veera Kerala Varma, Dutch converged on Portuguese Cochin
the senior member of the Mootha from three directions. The siege of Cochin
Thavazhi branch of the Cochin royal lasted for nearly two months. Though the
family appealed to the Dutch for help prospects of Dutch success seemed bleak
against the ruling family of Cochin. While initially, in the end, with the help of the
he had the Zamorin and the chiefs of Anchikaimals, the Dutch occupied
Vadakkumkoor, Thekkumkoor and Ernakulam. Though the Portuguese still
Edappally as his allies, the ruling Raja had held out in Cochin, soon they fell short of
the support of the princes of provisions with the result that the Dutch
Chempakasseri, Parur and Valluvanad as General stormed the Cochin Fort assisted
well as that of the Portuguese. The Dutch by the troops of Veera Kerala Varma and
decided to interfere and Van Der Meyden the Paliath Achan. The attack that lasted
landed at Njarakkal with a Dutch fleet for 8 days and nights resulted in the victory
and after taking over the fortress of of the Dutch. Having established
Pallippuram handed it over to the themselves as the masters of Cochin, the
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the 2nd of September 1674 brought the strategic town of Trichur. Now, Cochin
Cochin Kingdom still further under the State was limited to portions of Cochin
control of the Dutch Company and soon and Kanayannur Taluks and a part of
resulted in a revolt by the princes. The Trichur Taluk. The chief of Paliyam and
result was another treaty with the Raja on the Anchikaimals were the only notable
21 May 1678 under which the Prime chiefs who continued to be faithful to the
Ministership of the State was virtually Raja. The Dutch, who were till then co-
handed over to the nominee of the Dutch operating with the Raja, now withdrew
Company. Another agreement was also from the scene. At this juncture, Raja Rama
signed by the Dutch Commander, Martin Varma of Cochin died at Mattancherry in
Huysman, with the Raja on 3 May 1681. 1760. The following ruler Kerala Varma
According to an agreement dated 21 May (1760-1775) entered into an alliance with
1678, the Chief of Paliyam was given the Travancore in December 1761. Raja
power to rule Cochin State in Kerala Varma visited Trivandrum in August
communication with the Raja. 1762 and solemnly ratified the treaty
before the altar of Lord Sthanumurthi of
The traditional rivalry between Cochin and
Suchindram.
Calicut continued to complicate the
politics of Keralam during the Dutch With this, the era of Nair predominance
period also. During this period, which saw came to an end and the era of the modern
many internal troubles, an important event centralised State began. Cochin was
was the dismissal of the Paliath Achan reorganised into a centralised
from the Prime Ministership of the State. bureaucratic State. Another notable event
Another notable political development was the deterioration of relations between
was the rise of Travancore to prominence Cochin and Dutch Company during the
under Marthanda Varma (1729-1758). term of office of C.L. Sneff. An appeal
In view of her treaty obligations, Cochin was sent for a responsible person and
was also dragged into the war between soon Adrain Van Moens relieved Sneff
Travancore and the Dutch in which early in 1771.
Marthanda Varma was victorious.
Mysorean Invasion
Internal dissensions in the royal family Though Haider had invaded Malabar in
gave an opportunity to Marthanda Varma 1766 it had not affected Cochin. But when
to interfere in the politics of the Cochin Haider’s army descended again on
Kingdom. The title of Perumpadappu Malabar in 1773, Cochin wasn’t spared.
Mooppu was revived during this time. The The Cochin Raja had to pay a lakh of
Battle of Ambalapuzha (1754) was the last Ikkeri Pagodas (4 lakh rupees) as subsidy
great fight undertaken by Cochin with to Mysore. In September 1776 the Mysore
Vadakkumkoor and Purakkad against the forces under Sirdar Khan marched into
Travancore yoke in which the Cochin army Cochin and occupied Trichur. The Raja
lost. was forced to become a tributary of
During this time the Zamorin captured the
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Mysore and to pay a nuzzar of 1 lakh of summoned in 1789 and this turned Tippu
Pagodas and 4 elephants and annual Sultan into a determined enemy of
tribute of 30,000 Pagodas. Haider Cochin. Tippu made a proposal to
accorded to Cochin a special position in purchase Cochin, Cranganore and
his empire. Meanwhile Rama Varma Azhikotta from the Dutch but the Dutch
(1775-1790) had succeeded Raja Kerala and Travancore had entered into
Varma (1760-1775) and Sakthan negotiations and the sale of these forts to
Thampuran had become the virtual ruler Travancore was effected with great speed.
of the State in 1769. The hereditary Prime Tippu who took strong objection to this
Ministership of Cochin also came to an drew the attention of British Madras
end during this period. Government to it but his demands weren’t
Cochin was left unmolested in the early met. He soon sent his army and
years of the reign of Tippu Sultan, who demolished the Travancore lines and
succeeded Haider Ali. The alliance with Travancore and Cochin lay at the invaders
the Cochin Raja was seen as an important mercy. The British Governor-General,
factor in achieving his ambition of Lord Cornwallis, sent a British contingent
conquering Travancore. Though the Raja under Colonel Hartley to help the
offered to act as a mediator, he refused Travancore army. He also started
to meet Tippu Sultan when he was negotiations with the Nizam of Hyderabad
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and the Mahrattas for a joint attack on quite unfavourable for the Dutch. Major
Seringapatam. Alarmed at these Petrie laid siege to Cochin Fort, which was
developments Tippu withdrew from the finally captured on 19 October 1795. All
scene. With this the drama of the the Dutch living in Cochin were taken
Mysorean invasion came to an end. prisoners by the English and thus the
historic connection of the Dutch with
Treaty between Cochin and the Cochin ended.
English (1791)
Immediately after this, the Cochin Raja Modern Period
threw off his allegiance to Mysore and The Modern Period in the history of Cochin
became a tributary to the English East begins with the accession to the throne in
India Company. The formal 1790 of Rama Varma, the Sakthan
treaty between Company and
Cochin was signed on 6 January
1791 but it was to have effect
from 25 September. Cochin,
placed under the commissioners
appointed jointly by the Bengal,
Bombay and Madras
Governments, was first under the
control of the Madras
Government and later under
Government of Bombay before
being transferred back to
Madras Government in 1800.
Thampuran, and the treaty concluded by advantage of the offer and agreed to
him with the English East India Company surrender. It was made clear that Paliath
the following year. Though the treaty Achan wouldn’t be allowed to reside in
provided the basis for friendly relations, Cochin thereafter. On 6 May 1809 a new
the negative decision of the company in treaty was signed with the English by
respect of the various territorial claims put Kerala Varma (1809-1828) who
forward by Cochin was a sore succeeded Raja Rama Varma, the
disappointment to Sakthan Thampuran. provisions of which remained in force till
The Raja’s relations with the English the withdrawal of British power form India.
continued to be strained till his death in The period immediately following the
September 1805. suppression of the rebellion of Paliath
The period following the death of Sakthan Achan was one of gross anarchy and
Thampuran was an epoch of religious misrule. Kunjukrishna Menon of
ferment and political unrest when the Nadavaramba who had helped the
Rajas of Cochin adhered to militant English in the fateful days of 1808-09 was
Vaishnavism. On the death of Ravi Varma appointed Valia Sarvadhikaryakar but he
in 1864 the Cochin Royal Family returned was unequal to the new tasks that faced
to it’s ancient Smarta fold. the State. Cochin was soon on the verge
of financial bankruptcy. After Macaulay
Revolt of Paliath Achan was recalled, the new Resident took
The most important event of the period prompt steps to curb Menon’s power for
following the death of Sakthan mischief and in June 1812 obtained the
Thampuran was the revolt organised by permission of the Madras Government to
the Paliath Achan against the English. retire him on pension.
Though the Paliath Achan had ceased to
Genealogy of the Royal Family
be the hereditary Chief Minister of Cochin
in 1779, during the reign of Rama Varma Details about the Cochin royal families
(1805-1809) he was reinstated in the before the advent of the Portuguese are
office of Chief Minister with the help of not very clear, though there are references
Velu Thampi, the Dalava of Travancore. to some of their names in some books. It
Soon the Paliath Achan became the de is said that one Veera Kerala Varma, the
facto ruler of the state. The period of son of Cheraman Perumal’s sister was the
friendship between Macaulay, the first ruler.
Resident, on the one side and Velu Thampi Details of the rulers are given
and Paliath Achan on the other was not below in chrono- logical order.
destined to last long and soon resulted in
a revolt against the English. The combined Unni Raman Koyil I (? - 1503)
forces of Paliath Achan and Velu Thampi He was the ruler when the Portuguese
attacked Cochin. Soon the English Naval Commander, Cabral, reached
Company issued a proclamation offering Cochin on December 24 1500 and was
friendship or war. Paliath Achan took received with all honours when the latter
39
adopted from Chazhiyur. It is said that they age of seventy he passed away at Trichur
were the Maharaja’s own nephews and in 1721.
niece.
Ravi Varma (1721-31)
Originally, the Perumpadappu Maharajas Vischer Padre has written that Rama Varma
ascended the throne and were crowned hated Ravi Varma. From this it can be
at Chitrakudam at Vanneri in assumed that Ravi Varma was not one of
Perumpadappu. But after it was captured the princes adopted in 1715, as those
by the Zamorin this was not possible. At adopted then were reportedly Rama
the beginning of his rule, this Maharaja Varma’s own nephews and niece of whom
had taken an oath that his crowning he was very fond.
ceremony will be held only at
Chitrakudam. However, he could not do He had some misunderstandings with
it. In honour of their predecessor’s oath Paliath Achan and Achan was dismissed.
that could not be achieved, subsequent However, later, the younger generation of
Maharajas of Cochin did not wear a Paliyam reconciled the differences. He
crown. passed away in 1731 at Irinjalakuda.
With the help of the Dutch, Rama Varma Rama Varma (1731-46)
recaptured many places from the He was the last prince adopted from
Zamorin. It is said that he was very Chazhiyur in 1689. According to the
cunning and fond of wars. At the ripe old agreement with the Dutch he was forced
to wage war against Travancore. But
because of the intolerable misdeeds of
the Dutch he withdrew from the war. He
passed away at Kareekkatt in January
1746.
He was the most brave, strong and Divan of Cochin. In 1818 Nanchappan
diplomatic Maharaja in the history of became the Divan. Following his death
Cochin. He passed away in September in 1825, Seshagirirayar became the
1805 at Trichur. Divan.
Veera Kerala Varma was deeply interested
Rama Varma (1805-09)
in literature. He has written more than 50
He was the eldest son of Sakthan Attakathakal. He was a great sponsor of
Thampuran’s aunty (mother’s younger Kathakali. He passed away at Tripunithura
sister). Though he was a great Sanskrit in August 1928.
scholar, mild mannered and generous he
was not very capable. During his time the Rama Varma (1828-37)
actual rule was in the hands of Paliath He was the nephew of the previous
Achan. Maharaja. In 1830, Seshagirirayar
He and his brother converted to Madhava resigned as the Divan because of the
Matham and also popularised it. He is accusations of Valiya Thampuran and
the author of Sundarakanda Pana. He Edamana Sankara Menon became the
passed away in January 1809 at Divan. He was dismissed because of
Vellarapilly. accusations of bribery and sentenced to
jail and in October 1824
Veera Kerala Varma (1809-28) Venkitasubbayyar became the Divan.
He was the younger brother of Rama In November 1837 Valiya Thampuran
Varma who preceded him. Both he and passed away while at Tripunithura. Ikkavu
his brother were opposed to any attack Thampuran was the sister of Valiya
against the British. In the History of Cochin Thampuran. The present Cochin Royal
by Padmanabha Menon it is said that it Family are the descendants of Ikkavu
was even doubted that Rama Varma had Thampuran.
been killed because he refused to take
part in the attempt to kill the Resident, Rama Varma (1837-44)
Macaulay. He was the son of the eldest aunty of his
Paliath Achan and Velu Thampi Dalava predecessor. He passed away in June
had tried to kill the Resident, Macaulay, 1844 at Irinjalakuda.
by attacking Ponjikkara Bungalow. The
British became very angry at this. But as Rama Varma (1844-51)
Paliath Achan accepted the entire He was the eldest son of Ikkavu
responsibility for the attack the British did Thampuran. He passed away while at
not exile the royal family and take over Trichur in July 1851.
direct rule. According to the treaty signed
on 6th May 1809, the Perumpadappu Veera Kerala Varma (1851-53)
Maharaja became a vassal of the British. He had a great desire to improve his mind
In 1812, Colonel Munroe became the first and to acquire knowledge before he took
47
over the rule. So before he started his rule of the Most Exalted Order of the Star of
he, with a very small retinue, travelled to India). He built the Puthen Bungalow and
Bangalore, Coimbatore, Indore, Pune, Mani Malika of Tripunithura. He passed
Bhopal etc. and in 1853 February away while at Tripunithura in August
reached Kasi. He planned to travel back 1888.
through Calcutta, Puri, Madras and reach
Kerala Varma (1888-95)
Rameswaram and after Sethusnanam,
return to Cochin. However, he could not He was the brother of Rama Varma. He
fulfil his wish and in February suffered an was good in English and was a mild
attack of small pox and passed away while mannered Maharaja. The British
at Kasi. He was a great scholar and had Government honoured him with the order
deep knowledge of the English language. of K.C.I.E. when he was the Ilaya
He was also very handsome. His death Thampuran itself.
was a great tragedy because people In 1890 Govinda Menon resigned from
believed that the country would prosper the post of Divan. Following this C.
during his rule. Tiruvenkatacharya became the Divan.
Following his death
Ravi Varma (1853-64) V. Subrahmanya Pillai became the Divan.
He was not efficient or capable like his
In 1893 Valiya Thampuran visited Kasi,
brother, who preceded him. In 1856
Gaya and Calcutta. He passed away in
Divan Sankara Varier passed away and
September 1895 at Tripunithura.
Venkittarayar became the Divan. After his
dismissal, Thottekatt Sankunni Menon Rama Varma (1895-1914)
became the Divan. The Maharaja passed
He was a very efficient ruler. In 1897
away while at Tripunithura in February
Divan Subrahmanya Pillai retired. After
1864.
that P. Rajagopalacharya (1897-1901), L.
Rama Varma (1864-1888) Locke (1901-02), N. Pattabhirama Rao
(1902-07), A.R. Banerjee (1907-14) etc.
He was not in good health and easy going
became Divans. British Government
by nature. It was Divan Sankunni Menon
honoured the Maharaja with the orders
who looked after the affairs of the State.
of K.C.S.I, G.C.S.I., and G.C.I.E. It was
In 1879 Sankunni Menon resigned
during his time that the railway line from
because of poor health. After that his
Shornur to Cochin was built. Because of
brother Govinda Menon became the
a difference of opinion with the British
Divan. After a long time the Kings of
Government he gave up the throne. He
Cochin and Travancore visited each other
passed away in 1932 January at Trichur.
at Trivandrum and Tripunithura. In 1876
he went to Madras and visited the Prince Rama Varma (1914-32)
of Wales, the eldest son of Queen Victoria.
J.W. Bhor (1914-19), T. Vijayaraghav-
The British Government bestowed on him
achari (1919-22), P. Narayana Menon
the order of K.C.S.I. (Knight Commander
(1922-25), T.S. Narayana Iyer (1925-30)
48
and C.G. Herbert (1930-35) became was known as the ‘Aikya Keralam
Divans during his period. He passed away Thampuran’. He passed away while at
at Madras in March 1932. Ernakulam in 1948.
the son of Sankara Warier, was the Divan and Cochin were integrated with the
of Cochin from 1860 to 1879 under consent of the popular cabinets then
whom public works of all kinds received functioning in the two States and the State
great fillip. Sankunni Menon was of Travancore and Cochin came into
succeeded by his brother Govina Menon existence.
(1879-89). The next Divans, C. Events leading to the integration of
Tiruvenkatacharya (1889-92) and V. Cochin and Travancore
Subramonia Pillai (1892-96), continued
the policies of Sankunni Menon. The anti-British movements all over India
Subrahmanya Pillai retired from under the leadership of Indian National
Divanship in 1896 and the office was Congress had its echoes in Cochin also.
then held successively by P. In the late 1930s the District Congress
Rajagopalachari (December 1896 – Committee made itself active in the public
August 1901), S. Locke (August 1901 - life of Cochin. In 1938, a scheme of
September 1902), N. Pattabhirama Rao Diarchy was introduced in Cochin. The
(September 1902 - March 1907), A.R. experiment in Diarchy did not satisfy the
Banerjee (1907-14), J.W. Bhore (1914- progressive sections of the population of
19), T. Vijayaraghavachari (1919-22), P. Cochin. Hence, in 1941 a new political
Narayana Menon (1922-25), T.S. organisation, the Praja Mandalam, was
Narayana Iyer (1925-30), C.G. Herbert formed.
(1930-35), Shanmugham Shetty (March In September 1948, Praja Mandalam got
1935 - June 1941), Komattil Achyutha a clear majority in the first elected
Menon (June-October 1941), A.F.W. legislature. This was the first election held
Dixon (October 1941 - November 1943) in India on the basis of universal adult
and then Sir George Boag (November franchise to a legislature. By this time
1943 – August 1944). He was succeeded Praja Mandalam had merged with the
by C.P. Karunakara Menon whose period Indian National Congress and the first
of Divanship saw far-reaching Congress ministry assumed office in
constitutional changes that culminated in Cochin with E. Ikkanda Warier as Chief
the abolition of the age-old Divanship Minister on 20th September 1948. During
and the establishment of responsible the tenure of this ministry, the State of
government in Cochin. Cochin was merged with Travancore on
In July 1949, during the reign of Rama 1st July 1949 to form the new state
Varma Parikshit Thampuran, Travancore ‘Travancore- Cochin’.
50
Architecture
51
rooms the middle one of which is the into number of grids (padam) occupied
store-room, where the valuables and the by different deities (devatha). Depending
household deities are kept and other two on the size and importance of the
are bed-rooms. The northern block, or household the building may have one or
vadakkini, is divided into two rooms, the two upper storeys (malika) or further
kitchen and the dining room. The whole enclosed courtyard by repetition of the
or the middle portions of the eastern and nalukettu to form ettukettu (eight-halled
southern blocks kizhakkini and thekkini are building) or a cluster of such courtyards.
open halls, where visitors and guests are One of the best-preserved examples of a
received and entertained. With verandas nalukettu is the Mattancherry Palace at
all round the building and also round the Cochin and that of the ettukettu, the
inner courtyard we also find an open
portico or poomukham attached to it
often leading to the kizhakkini. Male
visitors are received here. By the side
of the kitchen is the well, water drawn
to it through a window. A courtyard
surrounds the building and in the
centre of the eastern yard we find the
thulasithara, a kind of altar or platform
in which the sacred basil is grown.
Surrounding the yard is the compound
in which fruit trees like jack and
mango, and plantains and other
vegetables are grown and which is
bounded by masonry walls, or by mud
walls with fencing. This garden
compound may also contain cattle
sheds, bathing tanks, wells, farm
buildings, grain stores etc, as ancillary
structures. An entrance structure or a
gate-house (padippura), often
constructed like the gopuram of a
temple, may contain one or more
rooms for guests or occasional visitors
who are not entertained in the main
house. The position and sizes of
various building were decided by the
analyses of the site involving the
concept of vastupurusha mandala
wherein the site (vastu) was divided
53
has twin wells leaving a passage between enclosing the temple, gopuras or
them. Four functional doors on all four gatehouses with the ground floor open
cardinal directions and pierced windows space used for temple dances and upper
to provide subdued light in the passage floor kottupura (a hall for drum beating)
are it’s characteristics. Sometimes the are it’s characteristic features. The
functional door is replaced by pseudo secondary shrines of parivara devathas
doors (ganadwaras). The concept of the found within the prakara were unitary cells.
storied temple is also seen in this phase. The prakara may also contain temple
tanks, vedapadhasalas and dining halls.
A greater complexity in the temple layout
as well as elaboration of detail can be A unique edifice of the native temple
seen in the last phase (1300-1800 AD). architecture is the presence of a large,
The vilakkumadam, the palisade structure pillared theatre hall (koothambalam)
fixed with rows of oil lamps added beyond meant for dance, musical performances
the nalambalam, balikkal mandapam and religious recitals. Technically the most
(altar stone) deepasthambham and important feature of the temple
dwajasthambham (the lamp post and flag architecture is the construction technique
mast) added in front of the balikkal using a dimensional standardisation. The
mandapam, prakara, the massive wall decorative elements are of three types:
55
mouldings, sculptures and paintings. prayer hall with a mihrab on the western
Mouldings are seen in the plinth and in wall and covered verandah all around, a
the mandala and sculptural work in the tall basement, walls being made of laterite
relief sculpture done on the outer walls of blocks with a wooden superstructure. The
the shrine and in timber elements (the roof is covered with copper sheets
rafter ends, the brackets, the timber incorporating fenials in the ridge. A new
columns and their capitals, door frames, trend has been to replace the architectural
wall plates and beams) and metal craft features of the old mosques with the use
used in sculpturing idols, motifs, claddings of arcuated forms, domes and minar-
and fenials. Paintings were murals and minarets of the imperial school of Indo-
had mythological and epic stories as their Islamic architecture. In the secular
themes. architecture of Muslims we find houses
with upper floor living rooms with windows
Islamic Architecture to the streets and wooden screens used
Built under the instructions of the Muslim to provide privacy and shade in the
religious heads and by the local artisans, verandahs, features superimposed on the
the models being the temples or theatre traditional construction patterns. Though
halls (koothambalam), the early mosques the pattern shows affinity with that of Arab
resembled the traditional buildings of the countries, traditional Hindu styles of
region. The mosque comprised of a large ekasalas and nalukettus are also adopted.
56
Christian Architecture one side of the nave. The bell was hung
There are two sources for the evolution of in an opening in the nave gable in smaller
the church architecture: work of Apostle churches. The church had a gable roof
St. Thomas and the Syrian Christians and extending to the chancel and the sacristy
European missionary work. by it’s side. Reminding us of a Hindu
temple, the tower over the chancel soared
Tradition has it that St. Thomas had seven higher than the roof of the nave. The
churches built at Kodungallur, Chayil, residence of the priest and the parish hall
Palur, Paravur, Kollam, Niranom and were located on either side of the church.
Kothamangalam but none of these The remnants of the indigenous Hindu
churches are now extant. With the arrival style could be seen in the massive laterite
of the Syrian Christians we find the wall that enclosed the church and the
introduction of West Asian conventions in ancillary buildings, the open cross in front
church architecture, which finds it’s of the main entrance on a granite
influence in the ornamental gable, façade basement, the flag mast, a gateway and
at the nave end, surmounted by a cross with a kottupura or a music room on the
and an entry porch (shale), and small upper storey etc.
chambered baptistry with belfries built on
57
The Portuguese were the first to introduce later trends in the plan shapes and
European styles in church architecture structural forms are also there. For
followed by the Dutch and the British. Their example the Cathedral of Archbishop of
innovations included the use of images Varapuzha is a soaring hyperbolic
of saints made of wood, erection of paraboloid in reinforced concrete with
pulpits, ornamental altar pieces, painted bold expression in sharp contrast with all
ceilings and walls, pointed and rounded traditional forms.
arches and installation of stained glass
windows. The British period saw the use Jewish Monuments
of cross shaped plan, central Roman Though the most important Jewish
dome, towers serving as belfries on either settlement seen at Cochin near the
side of the main entrance in the front, and Mattancherry palace resembles traditional
the typical features of European church architecture it is of a different plan
architecture. These were the Gothic concept. The difference lies in the fact that
arches, the pilasters and buttresses, the the ground floor rooms are used as shops
rounded openings, the classic mouldings or warehouses and the living rooms are
and stained-glass windows. Churches with on the first floor. The frontage of the
58
building on the street side is continuous modernistic style which uses concrete as
with adjoining buildings in the pattern of the medium of construction and linear ,
row houses. The Synagogue, an important cubical or curvilinear shapes for
historic monument, stands in contrast to expressing forms. The other trend is to
the temples of the Hindus. adopt the traditional techniques with the
use of indigenous material propagated
Indo-European Style in Secular
by Lawrie Baker.
Architecture
During 16th to 19th century, architectural Monuments
development was clearly influenced by the Synagogues
European style, first by the Portuguese and
The famous White Jew’s Synagogue or
later by the Dutch. It saw features like the
Paradesi Synagogue is situated opposite
projecting balconies, Gothic arches and
the Dutch Palace at Mattancherry.
cast iron window grill work. The later
Architecturally it is only an undistinguished
British influence saw a compromise of
tall building with sloping tiled roofs. Built
antique craft and neo-classical
in 1567, the original synagogue was
construction needs. The Greek and
destroyed in 1664 in shelling during a
Roman antiquity was emphasised in the
Portuguese raid. Later it was rebuilt after
classic orders of pillars with triangular
the Dutch returned to Cochin. The clock
pediments, arches and domes for public
tower was built in 1767. The famous
buildings, town halls, hospitals, railway
Copper Plate Grants of Bhaskara Ravi
stations, colleges etc. Laterite and lime
Varman (1000 AD), a golden crown
plastering remained as the media of Indo-
presented by the Maharaja of Travancore
European work. Bungalow architecture is
in 1805, silver lamps presented by Col.
one of the best examples of the
Macaulay, the first Resident of Cochin, are
adaptations of European style to the
some of the interesting exhibits at the
climatic needs and the synthesis with
synagogue. The synagogue has a hand
traditional style. Bungalows were buildings
painted blue and white willow pattern
with large rooms with high ceilings with a
mosaic floor of approximately 256 tiles..
veranda all around and there were upper
These were brought all the way from
floor rooms, balconies, portico, Venetian
Canton, China in 1763 and presented
blades, glazed panels, brick arches,
by Ezekiel Rabi, a rich merchant. The
terracotta pieces and exposed brick work
scene depicted on each tile is slightly
in various bonding patterns. Cast iron
different from the other. The cemetery
fences, stair balustrades and iron grills,
attached to the synagogue contains many
made in England, were used to complete
tomb stones with inscriptions in Hebrew
the bungalow architecture.
script. This synagogue has the unique
The Present Trend distinction of being the oldest synagogue
Post-independence architecture presents in the Commonwealth.
two diverse trends: one being the One of the two Black Jew’s synagogues
59
Karvathy in the Hijara year 926. Kothamangalam and Kolenchery are all
examples of the early Christian institutions.
A notable specimen of the old Muslim
style, the beautiful Kanjiramittam Mosque The Mulanthuruthy Church built around
is said to have been erected over the 1225 and repaired in 1575 AD is one of
mortal remains of Shaikh Parid who spent the oldest Orthodox Syrian churches.
his last days here. The great Muslim saint, After the acts of vandalism against the
Baver is supposed to have prayed and Portuguese by the Dutch, the Catholics
attained eternal bliss here. were persuaded to establish their
The Karikode Mosque near Thodupuzha headquarters in the town of Vypeen.
conforms to the typical Islamic architecture Vypeen Church was built and dedicated
and is one of the oldest mosques in this to ‘Our Lady Of Hope’. The altar and the
area. old screen of the church are said to have
once belonged to the Church of St.
Churches Francis. The father memorial slab in the
Some of the earliest centres of Christian church at the foot of the main altar where
activity in Kerala were in Cochin and only Bishops are buried, indicates: ‘Poney
therefore, it has several old native and Guezlar the master ship builder of Cochin
European churches. for 12 years died in 1852’.
The churches of Parur and Malayattur are The Portuguese who were given
believed to be among the oldest Catholic permission by the Raja of Cochin to
churches. Njarakkal church, whose origins construct a fort built the old St. Cruz
can be traced to the pre-Portuguese Church in 1503 at the harbour mouth.
period is an old Romo-Syrian church. The The historic church Santa Cruz Basilica
Roman Catholic churches at built by the Portuguese, was elevated to a
Chennamangalam, Kanjur and Cathedral by Pope Paul the Fourth in
Udayamperoor, St. Theresa’s Convent at 1558. It was demolished in 1795 when it
Ernakulam, the church at Vallarpadom, fell into the hands of the British. About a
Orthodox Syrian churches at 100 years later, Bishop Dom Gomez
Ferreira commissioned a new building at
the same site in 1887. Pope John Paul
Second proclaimed the church a Basilica
in 1984.
Santo Antonio Church, now St. Francis
Church, is India’s oldest European built
church. A landmark of history and church
architecture of India, its date of
construction is not known. Probably it was
constructed in 1503. It owes its origin to
the Franciscan Friars who accompanied
61
The six feet height idols of Hanuman and Tourism Development Corporation.
Garuda, a gigantic lingam dedicated to Hill Palace—the official residence of the
Siva, Papanasam temple tank on the erstwhile Cochin royal family—was built
northeast corner, paintings, woodcarvings, in 1865. Known as ‘Kunnummel Kottaram’
pagoda type gopuram, copper roofed in Malayalam, the palace is situated on a
Mani Mantapam, etc are the notable panoramic hill top. The complex consists
features. This temple contains one of the of 49 buildings in the traditional
biggest bronze bells in India. architectural style of Kerala and is
Devaresa Prabhu established Shri surrounded by a wide and expansive area
Venkatachalapathy Thirumala Temple in of nearly 52 acres of beautiful green
1727 AD. The main deity is Shri landscape. The northern block of the main
Venkatachalapathy. The deity was palace complex called the Hill Bungalow
originally the kuladevatha of Sri was designed by European architects and
Damodara Achari who migrated from was put up to perfection in 1898. The
Goa. The other deities are Mahalakshmi, central block which houses the Cabinet
Hanuman, Mahaganapathy, Garuda and Hall and the adjacent block were
Yakshi. completed by the Rama Varma Raja
(1895-1914). During his regime a unique
Palaces lift imported from England was installed.
Bolghatty Palace was built in 1744 by the The Hill Palace main building is a majestic
Dutch and was later taken over by the mansion with lofty columns and arches
British. Today it is a hotel run by the Kerala
63
showing the European influence. Though the palace we find another temple
in the earlier phase the inner ceiling was complex dedicated to Vishnu and Siva.
spanned with huge wooden beams, we On the western side of the palace there is
find imported iron beams from Britain in a large masonry tank for bathing. The
the later phase. Rare varieties of imported entire structural complex is enclosed by a
tiles were used for flooring in this complex high wall with entrances on the eastern
with wooden ceilings and staircases. and western sides. The upper storey of
Recently developed into one of the most the palace, with it’s covered porch
relevant Archaeological Museums of contains the spacious Coronation Hall,
Kerala, the palace complex contains an and is noted for it’s carved ceiling. It has,
Archaeological Museum, a Heritage however, no wall paintings. Dresses,
Museum, a Deer Park, a Pre-historic Park turbans and three palanquins belonging
and a Children’s Park. The Archaeological to the Cochin royal family are now
Museum has a rich variety of antique exhibited here. There are three large bed
exhibits. There are seventeen major chambers apart from other rooms. To the
categories. The Heritage Museum is west of the Coronation Hall is a bed
actually an ettukettu, a traditional chamber (palliyara) with low wooden
residential mansion of the upper strata of ceiling covered with murals executed in
early Kerala society. The palace grounds traditional style. There are forty to forty-
are a rare conservatory of indigenous and five scenes from the Ramayana. To the
exotic trees. south of the Coronation Hall we find the
staircase room (govinithalam) leading to
Mattancherry Palace, known also as the the bedchamber, meant for ladies, on the
Dutch Palace, is one of the oldest buildings lower floor. The lower floor is divided into
built by Europeans in India in a several small chambers with a spacious
predominantly oriental style. It was built dining hall and a kitchen on one side.
by the Portuguese in AD 1557 and Attached to the eastern wing of the palace
presented to the then ruler of Cochin, at the southern end, is a long portico with
Veera Kerala Varma. It was the seat of a secret opening to the courtyard outside
the royal house of Cochin for about two and with painted walls. To the north of
centuries. More than a hundred years the govinithalam is another room with only
later, in 1663 AD, the Dutch undertook one painting representing Vishnu as
repair and renovation of the palace. Vaikuntanatha of the Tripunithura temple.
It is a double storied quadrangular A spacious hall further north exhibits at
building divided into long and spacious present some of the paraphernalia of the
halls. It follows the plan of nalukettus (an royal house of Cochin, while the hall to
open courtyard surrounded by the the east contains some of their weapons,
building proper). In the centre is enshrined a swing and some furniture. The Dutch
the titulary deity of the royal family— Palace represents a peculiar blending of
Pazhayannur Bhagavathy. To the south of the European and indigenous ideas of
64
architecture and remains one of the main bungalow with it’s Portuguese, Dutch and
attractions in Cochin. local influences. Characteristic features
are the wood panelled roof, arched
Forts
doorways, carved doors and sprawling
Remains of forts built by the Portuguese rooms. Waterfront verandahs are an
and the Dutch can be seen at Pallippuram added attraction.
and Cochin. The former, a hexagonal
building known by the name of Ayakotta Bastion Bungalow, built in the Indo-
or Azhikotta, is perhaps one of the oldest European style in 1667, got it’s name
European structures extant in India. Made from it’s location on the site of Stromberg
of laterite blocks with a gateway built of Bastion of the old Dutch fort. The building
dressed granite, the main purpose of this blends beautifully into the circular structure
fort was to guard the entry into the of the bastion as a tiled roof and a typical
backwaters from the north. first floor verandah in wood along it’s front
portion. Though it has been said that a
The remains of forts built by Cochin rulers network of secret tunnels runs beneath the
can be seen at Chowwara and bungalow, none have been found. Today,
Tripunithura. The ruins of a cavalry outpost the bungalow is the official residence of
have been come across at Thrikkakunnu the Revenue Divisional Officer.
(near Irimpanam). In Muvattupuzha and
Ramamangalam are the ruins of a fortress Delta Study, once a warehouse, this
of the Vadakkumkoor Rajas. Ruins of an heritage building built in 1808, houses a
old fort can be seen at Karikode. high school today.
Fort Manuel, the bastion of the Portuguese The Old Harbour House, built in 1808,
in Cochin, was a symbol of the strategic is in the possession of Carrit Moran and
alliance between the Maharaja of Cochin Co., renowned tea brokers. It was once a
and the Monarch of Portugal, after whom boat club. Now it is used as a residence.
it was named. The foundation stone was Koder House, constructed by Samuel S.
laid on 27 September 1503. The fort was Koder of the Cochin Electric Company in
a square structure of 183 yards 1808, is a supreme example of Indo-
surrounded by a deep moat. Christened European architecture. Features like
as Manuel Kotta or Fort Manuel, it was verandah seats at the entrance, floor tiles
destroyed by the Dutch by 1806 and more in a chessboard pattern, carved wooden
completely by the British later though furniture, red coloured brick-like façade,
some of it’s remains can be seen today wooden bridge connecting separate
along the Fort Cochin Beach. structures across the street are all unique
to this bungalow.
Bungalows and Houses
Vasco House is one of the oldest
Pierce Leslie Bungalow, an office of M/s
Portuguese residences in Fort Cochin. It
Pierce Leslie and Co., coffee merchants
is believed to have been the residence of
founded in 1862 , is a representative of
Vasco Da Gama. Built in the early
the archetype Fort Cochin colonial
65
Folk Arts
67
Folk Arts
padayani and kalikettu in Kali temples.
Cochin does not have a folk culture of its
The powder for all the 5 colours–black,
own that could be separated from the folk
white, yellow, red and green– are taken
culture of Kerala. Folk arts of Kerala can
from natural substances like burnt chaff
be broadly classified as ritualistic and non-
(for black), rice (for white), brick (for red),
ritualistic and the former again into
leaves of kumkumam or vaka (for green)
devotional and magical. Devotional folk
and turmeric (for yellow). The practice of
arts like Theyyam, Kanyarkali, Kummatti
decorating the walls of temples, churches
etc. are performed to propitiate a
and palaces with beautiful paintings as a
particular God or Goddess and magical
tradition goes a long way back. In
folk arts like Pambinthullal,
mukhamezhuthu colours are applied on
Pooppadathullal, Kolamthullal etc. to win
the face in different ways for mudiyattom,
prosperity for a community or exorcise evil
theyyam, kalikettu etc. In meyyezhuthu the
spirits or to beget children. Non-ritualistic
chest and stomach of a performer are
folk arts can be divided into theatre arts,
painted in art forms like theyyam etc. Art
painting, architecture, sculpture etc. Folk
forms that employ mukhavarnam (mask)
drama, a part of theatre, is closely bound
are padayani, theyyam, thira etc.
to religious rituals. Folk dances are
performed by both men and women to Handicrafts
the accompaniment of songs, which are
The practice of decorating articles of daily
sung by the dancers themselves or
use and mouldings of pottery and metallic
occasionally by a group of musicians.
vessels have always been a passion for
Painting Malayalees. Traditional bronze lamps and
large bronze vessels called vattalam are
Intimately linked to religious rituals, folk
good examples of this tradition of folk
paintings are of 5 types: Kolamezhuthu,
handicraft.
Kalamezhuthu, Chumarchithramezhuthu
(murals), Mukha-mezhuthu, Dances
Mukhavarnangal (masks) and Kireedom
(headgear). Onam is celebrated in all Kanyarkali
homes by laying flower designs on the Kanyarkali (also known as Desathukali)
floor (pookkalam). Kolamezhuthu tradition is a fast moving, militant dance attuned
finds it’s vestiges in the kolams that are
drawn by Tamil Brahmins. They are
usually done using powder of a single
colour. Kalamezhuthu includes forms
like Kalamvaraykal, Aniyal etc. and uses
powders of 5 different hues. They are
relatively larger and it is a means of
propitiating Gods. Multicolour powder
designs of Goddess Kali are made in
68
to rhythmic devotional folk songs and evil spirits from homes. It is believed that
asuravadyas. It is said to be a ritual Pakkanar and his wife visit the houses.
offering in honour of Bhagavathy. The They dance in tune with the beat of
dances last for four days and are preceded different drums. Usually this art form is
by three days of Karivela and Vattakali. performed during Onam festival.
The programme for each day is known
by a different name; the first day ’s Oppana
Kanyarkali being called Erawakkali and Performed traditionally among the Muslim
the next three day’s items being known community in Kerala, this song and dance
as Aandikootu, Vallon and Malama programme is performed by females to
respectively. There are more than forty entertain the bride and by males to
‘steps’ or puratts for the four-day entertain the bridegroom. Harmonium,
programme. Though performed by Nairs, tabla and ganjra are the musical
Kanyarkali depicts the life of the Malayans, instruments used. The songs are based
one-time slaves and dependents of the on Mappilappattu.
feudal chieftains and jenmies of the
Kurathiyattom
Malabar area in Kerala. The
accompanying folk songs also throw some Historically, Kurathis are Kerala’s gypsies
light on the ancient feudal relationships. who go about from place to place telling
Musical instruments like chenda, fortunes. In this dance called
maddalam, elathalam and chengala are Kurathiyattom, two Kurathis in the guise
used. The costumes are very colourful. of characters representing the wives of
Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva stage an
Aivarkali argument through songs about the
Literally meaning the play of the five sets, exploits of their respective husbands. The
this was a ritualistic art form performed in favourable point in one’s favour becomes
the temples. Also known as Pandavarkali the butt of ridicule at the other’s hands
or the play of the Pandavas, this is and while one praises profusely, the other
performed by Ezhava, Asari, Moosari, condemns sarcastically. This is interpreted
Karuvan, Thattan and Kallasari with fluent mime. The gestures, body
communities. The performers numbering swerves and footwork, show perfect co-
5 or more with their leader called ordination and rhythmic grace. After this
Kaliachan, after a ritualistic bath apply the Kuravan (male) enters and enact a
sandal paste over their foreheads and mock quarrel with the Kurathi. Maddalam,
perform beneath a decorated pandal with kaimani etc. are the instruments used.
a nilavilakku at the centre. Besides ponthi,
only elathalam is used for musical Thumpithullal
accompaniment. Usually performed by women in
connection with the Onam festival, all the
Pakkanaraattom girls dressed in Onakkodi (new clothes
This art form is performed to drive out received as a present for Onam) sit round
69
in a circle. At the centre of the circle sits beating of the sticks by men and the
the performer. The girls sing in chorus to clapping of the hands by women are
the rhythmic clapping of hands and perfectly synchronised with the steps that
occasional vociferations known as Kurava. they make and also with the rhythm of
The rhythm and the pitch of the clapping the songs.
and the songs rise to a feverish level when
the girl in the centre enters into a trance Thiyyattu
and begins to dance. Thiyyattu is a devotional offering
performed in Bhadrakali temples.
Kummi Thiyyattunnis alone are entitled to perform
Performed by women, the dancers move it. The theme is usually the killing of Darika
in a circle with hand gestures signifying by Bhadrakali. First the picture of
reaping and harvesting. One of the Bhadrakali (called Kalam) is drawn on the
women leads the singing while the rest floor, with five different coloured powders.
take up the refrain. Each performer A peedhom (seat) is placed in front, facing
renders a new line in turn and the dancing a traditional oil-lit lamp. Then, the dancer
stops when all get tired. In variations of in the costume and make-up of
the Kummi, in some areas men also Bhagavathy wearing a special headgear,
participate. Here, the men with small sticks pleated skirt and painted face dances
in their hands form a circle, inside which before the Kalam, to the accompaniment
the women stand in a smaller ring. The of devotional songs. A small sized chenda,
70
thimila and kaimani are the instruments gathers momentum. The group formations
used. Sometimes Thiyyattu is performed are many and varied. Every movement
before the deity Ayyappan by a set of keeps perfect time with the strokes of the
people known as Thiyyadi Nambiars. In sticks that the dancers hold in their hands.
the Ayyappan Thiyyattu the make-up and Unique for its footwork and the striking of
costume of the dancer is that of sticks that very closely resemble the
Nandikeswaran. movements of the sword and the shield in
ancient duels in Kerala, this dance is also
Bhootham Thullal known as Kampadikali and Koladikali or
This is ritual performed in connection with Kolkali.
Vela, Pooram, Thalappoli etc., which are
festivals in Keralam temples. Mannanmars Ammanattom
and, very rarely, Panars and Pulayas are Ammanam is a hollow metallic ball that
usually allowed to perform this dance. The contains numerous metal pieces inside.
concept is that the devil-aides Women perform the Ammanattom dance,
(Bhoothams) of Lord Shiva are coming to using four to twenty-four Ammanams that
see and enjoy the temple festival. Large are juggled. The jingling of the metal
headgear, protruding, unnaturally pieces in the Ammanams keeps time
rounded eyeballs, high ridged noses, perfectly with the rhythm of the Brahmani
protruding tongue, flowing back hair, songs sung by the performer.
pleated skirts and overcoats all conspire
to make the dancers appear completely Sarpam Thullal
supernatural. Each dancer has a girdle Sarpam Thullal is usually performed in the
of bells. Anklets are also attached to the courtyard of houses having snake shrines.
legs and each dancer holds a shield and It is a votive offering for family wealth and
club in his hands. happiness. Members of a community
called Pulluvar perform the dance. In the
Kolam Thullal first stage, the Pulluvan draws a Kolam
This is a ritual offering usually performed (picture) of two or more entwined snakes
to get rid of the troubles caused by evil- in the courtyard. An oil-lit traditional lamp
spirits. Here, a number of characters, with and one full measure (Nirapara) each of
hideous make-up and flat big head-gear paddy and rice are then placed in front
dance to the accompaniment of primitive of the Kolam. In the second stage, the
percussion instruments. The costumes of idol of the snake is brought out from the
the dancers are highly decorative and rich Kavu in a procession called Thalappoli. A
in colour and brilliance. This dance is not number of girls with their hair dressed up
accompanied by songs. like the hoods of snakes and reminiscent
of the legend of the Naga kanyakas are
Kampadavukali part of this procession. The idol is placed
This war dance is performed in circles and in the Kolam and the Poojari performs
the dancers utter wild war cries as it
71
ritual offerings while the girls sit in two there is kalamezhuthu, in which the form
rows on the side of the Kolam. The Poojari of the deity is drawn on the floor with the
then dances to the rhythmic beating of aid of five different coloured powders.
para and elathalam. All the while a Then, devotional songs are sung to the
Pulluvan and Pulluvathi will be singing accompaniment of nanduni, a musical
special devotional songs set to tune and instrument. After this the dancer known
rhythm by nanduni (a primitive type of as Velichappadu enters, wearing a red
veena) and kudam respectively. As the mundu, red scarf and a girdle of bells at
song gathers momentum the girls go into the waist, and a sword in hand. Slowly he
a trance and begin to dance, swaying their gets into a trance and executes vigorous
bodies slowly at first and steadily movements that are called idumkoorum
ascending in tempo. The dance finally chavittal.
erupts in a violent frenzy of rhythmic
fervour. Kavadiyattam
Kavadiyattam is mainly performed as a
Velichappadu Thullal votive offering in temples where the
This is a ritual dance common with presiding deity is Lord Subrahmanya. Here
Bhadrakalippattu, Ayyappanppattu and a number of dancers dressed in yellow or
Vettaykorumakanppattu. Usually the pink clothes and with ashes smeared all
members of the Kallathu kuruppanmar over the body carry ornate Kavadis on their
perform it. In the first stage of the dance shoulders and dance in a row to the
72
rhythmic music of instruments like udukku, perform stylised movements, through well-
chenda etc. Sometimes nadaswaram is defined steps. The instrumentalists repeat
also used the songs and put questions to the
characters. Some portions from the
Kolkali Ramayana form the theme of the play.
This art form is prevalent among Hindu Sometimes, portions from the
farmers. Both men and women Mahabharatha are also used. When
participate. The performers numbering 12 needed by the actors the accompanists
to 24 move in a circle, striking small sticks keep time with tiny cymbals (Kuzhithalam).
and keeping rhythm with special steps. The
circle expands and contracts as the dance Pallukali
progresses. The dance phases are In vogue in Palakkad District, the Pariah
Irunnukali, Thaduthukali, Thadakali, community performs this ritualistic art. An
Thaduthu thettikol, Orumanimuttu, artiste in the costume of Ganapathy is
Chavittichuttal, Churanjuchuttal, Chind followed by such characters as
etc. The accompanying music gradually panakkaran (a rich man), his servant, his
rises in pitch and the dance reaches its two wives, and a kolkaran (he is also the
climax. Sometimes it is performed on a comedian). The leader sings a song in
specially constructed wooden stage giving Kavu style. According to the meaning of
it the name Thattinmelkali. It is also called the song, those on the stage start acting
Kolukali, Koladi, Vettumthada etc. and singing the dialogues. Of the two
wives of the rich man, one turns informer
Poykkalukali against him. This and the misfortunes that
Also known as Marakkalattom, this is a follow upon this, form the core of the
stilt-dance performed in connection with theme. On account of the prayers of the
temple festivals. Theme songs are sung other wife it all ends happily. The male
in which the fight of the goddess Durga characters have costumes similar to those
on stilts against the Asuras who attacked of Kathakali. The female characters don
her in the guise of snakes, scorpions etc., mundu and randammundu.
are portrayed. The rhythm is kept by
percussion instruments. Paana
This is a ritual dance propitiating the
Thekkathiyum goddess Kali. Small temporary shrines are
Popular in Palakkad and Malappuram constructed and variously decorated. A
Districts this is a dance performed by the branch of the Pala tree is taken around
Panars whose profession is the making of the temple by about 10 to 12 persons
palm leaf umbrellas. Two dancers (one who dance all the way to the rhythm set
male and one female) and two percussion by percussion instruments and it is called
instrumentalists form a troupe. The Pala Piditham. The branch is then installed
characters sing, exchange dialogues and in the centre of the shrine as the deity and
the village leader performs pooja. Ten to
73
twelve persons dancing round the deity red scarf on the head and a red cloth at
with burning torches follow this. After this, the waist. Anklets are tied to the legs. The
songs are sung glorifying the victory of performer goes around the deity, dancing
Kali over Darika. The last part of the dance to the rhymes set by chenda, maddalam,
is Velichappadu thullal. thimila and elathalam. Then he gets onto
a one-wheeled platform over which is the
Ayyappan Vilakku pillar like Utholakam. There is a hook at
A miniature temple is constructed with one end of the Utholakam that is hooked
tender coconut fronds and banana plant into the back of the dancer. This end is
stem. Then songs are sung on the then raised up. Hooked to the Utholakam,
legendary fight between Ayyappan and the dancer is thus suspended in the air in
Vavar. In tune with the various rhymes and which posture he executes certain physical
rhythms of this devotional song, two feats and dance movements and the
dancers in the costume and make up of whole platform is taken around the temple
Ayyappan and Vavar perform with swords deity thrice. Sometimes the make-up of
and coconut fronds. The dancers execute the dancer will be in the shape of Garuda,
vigorous foot-movements. In the last the mythological bird, hence the dance is
stage, a huge fire called aazhi is lit and also called Garudan Thookkam.
the dancers jump into the burning embers
still dancing. Poothanum Tharayum
Vannanmar perform this in the northern
Thookkam region. When performed by the Parayas
This is a votive offering performed in elsewhere it is known also as Parayan
Bhagavathy temples. The costume of the Thira. It is usually presented during the
dancer is as in Velichappadu Thullal - a festivals in Bhagavathy temples. The
characters are the divine Bhoothams who
accompanied
Kali during her
mission to slay the
demon Darika.
Symbolic of the
merrymaking of
the spirits after the
slaying of the
demon, this
dance is noted for
it’s colourful and
distinct costumes.
Thiruvathirakali
Performed by
74
women on the Thiruvathira day in the performers fake a sword battle while the
Malayalam month of Dhanu, during leader, called Asan, sings songs. The
Onam and other festive seasons, this musical accompaniment is restricted to
dance is believed to be the elathalam.
commemoration of Parvathi’s dance on
Siva’s birthday. Performed continuously for Mariamma Pooja
seven days prior to Thiruvathira, it is a It is mainly performed by Kumbharanmar
symmetric group dance around a (potters) in temples. There are 22
Nilavilakku. The dance has the lasya performers who take out an effigy of
element predominating except in parts of Mariamma (clan deity) along with a large
North Kerala where men also participate pot to the river. After taking a dip in the
and the thandava element is also brought river and dancing back to the pandal put
into play. The songs are in the Sopana up in front of the temple, the kumbham
style. carrier will flagellate himself with a whip.
After this, the invocation of the deity,
Mudiyettu subsequent possession and oracular
It is a ritualistic dance presented in utterances take place. Chenda, udukku
Bhadrakali temples. A Kolam of the and elathalam are used in this
Goddess in her most destructive moods performance that starts in the evening and
is created followed by rituals of drawing lasts till daybreak.
a Kalam, then prathistapooja,
thiriyuzhichil, thalappoli and kalam Darikavadham
maykal. The Kolam is then taken around It is the dance enactment of the slaying of
the temple to the accompaniment of Darika by Bhadrakali, performed by
percussion instruments and finally installed Parayas. There are at least 14 persons
in a suitable place. After a ritual called involved. Two Kalams are drawn inside the
aranguvazhthal the dance is enacted precincts of the temple, one each for
before the Kolam. There are at least Darika and Kali. After a pooja, two
sixteen performers in this dance, the theme persons dressed as Kali and Darika act
of which is the legendary victory of out the battle scene on the Kalam. Lord
Bhadrakali over Darika. Two types of Siva also appears, trying to save Darika
chenda and cymbals are the percussion but fails. Thappu, chenda and elathalam
instruments used. It is usually presented are used. The costumes are terrifying in
after dusk. effect with Kali’s red lips, red tongue and
Darika’s Kavacha and Kundala.
Parichamuttukali
A martial art performed by Christians, Tholpavakoothu
Thiyyas and some other communities, this Also known as Pavakoothu (puppet play)
art can be traced to the ancient days of and Nizhalattam (shadow play), this
Kerala when Kalaripayattu was in vogue. ritualistic art form is prevalent in Palakkad.
This is a group dance in which 6 to 16 At least 4 persons are involved, usually
75
Music
the raga swaras.
Music plays an important role in the lives
of Malayalees, be it folk, sacred Uniquely, in Sopana Sangeetham, the
(vaideeka), secular (laukeeka), or drama alapana treats every note of a raga as its
(natya) music. base (nila or padi), proceeds to its
immediate succeeding note and then
Sopana music, the traditional and most
descends to its nila. Also, unlike that of
typical music style of Kerala, literally
art music, the alapana is slow and tala
means music that is performed from the
bound. The usage of straight and sharp
sopana or the granite steps leading to the
notes of a raga and holding them for long
sanctum sanctorum of temples. And like
creates a feeling that there are more than
steps, it is a music that proceeds slowly in
the usual varieties of nishadas, gandharas,
an ascending and descending order of
etc. in Sopana Sangeetham. The choice
77
elathalams, eleven kombus, two edakkas songs and beating of drums. This is an
and one sanghu, the major set has fifteen adaptation of Koodiyattom based on
thimilas, eight maddalams, fifteen Christian themes, with some ingredients
elathalams, fifteen kombus, two or more of Western opera.
edakkas and one or more sanghus. It originated around the sixteenth and
Regarded as devavadyam, pancha seventeenth centuries, when foreign
vadyam starts with omkara, sounded Christian missionaries tried to adapt
through the sanghu. Panchavadyam is Christian religious themes to the local
presented in temple rituals. While conditions and develop a presentable
sandhya-keli is a part of the temple ritual theatrical form, which could be
vilakkacharam, kathakali keli is performed understood by the Malayalee audience.
before a Kathakali performance begins. It had its debut at Mattancherry where two
While the former ensemble consists of Tamil Christian scholars, Vedanayakam
elathalam, chengala and maddalam, Pillai and Chinnathampi Pillai, contributed
kooru vayikkal is the typicality of the much to it’s development in the formative
latter’s ensemble. stage.
Performing Arts While Kathakali is dependent on miming
Chavittu natakam and physical expressions, Chavittu
natakam depends on verbal acting with
A theatrical art, which developed under
more importance to the element of
the auspices of the Church in Kerala, the
drama. The dressing, which includes
Chavittu natakam, evolved as a Christian
western forms including helmet,
alternative to the Hindu Kathakali. The
breastplate, gloves etc., is simpler and
name originates from the rhythmic
only characters like Satan, dragons etc.
stamping (chavittu) on the wood stage
have elaborate forms of dressing similar
floor by the performers to the tune of
to Kari in Kathakali.
81
This musical drama, with songs in Tamil an unusually loud noise, not very pleasant
meter, is sung by the actors themselves. to the ears. In some churches there were
Music, vocal and instrumental has an Natakasalas or drama halls intended for
important place in this theatrical art. the staging of Chavittu natakam. With the
Chenda, maddalam, mridangam, development of modern drama forms this
nagaswaram, violin, harmonium and art form is losing its attraction to younger
band instruments were the musical generations.
instruments used for the orchestra. Flute
and fiddle are also used. There are sixteen Visual Arts
types of basic chuvadus (steps) with a Cochin Murals
number of variations like irattippu,
The Cochin Murals bear ‘traces of the
kalasam, idakkalasam and kavittam.
influence of Buddhist painting that links
Chavittu natakam has also a martial
the art of Keralam with that of Ajanta and
aspect as war scenes are an essential
Bagh.’ The palliyara or bedchamber in the
ingredient of the performance. Among the
Mattancherry Palace contains most of
stories presented by the Chavittu natakam
these murals. Painted above the wooden
troupes were those of Charlemagne,
mouldings on the walls, these scenes cover
Napoleon, the lives of Christian saints and
an area of more than 300 square feet.
the history of Christianity. Resembling the
The upper half of the walls was covered
miracle plays of the West, the costumes,
with puranic themes while the lower half
make-up, and stage settings show
had simple textile designs.
unmistakable traces of Western influence.
The great moments of Ramayana are
The stage in Chavittu natakam is an
depicted through more than 60 wall
unusually large one, 30 metres in length
paintings, from Dasaratha’s Putrakamesh-
and 9 metres in width, made by arranging
tiyagam till the re-entry of Seetha and Ram
a series of wooden planks. It is about 2.70
to Ayodhya. Dasaratha instructing
metres high from the floor and very often
Sumandra about the preparations for the
the Elizabethan type of double-storied
Putrakameshtiyagam forms the first picture
stage is put up. Sometimes, as many as
on the northern end of the eastern wall.
fifty actors appear in an action scene and
Fire God Agni with payasam in his hands
all of them have to be accommodated
appearing from the fire with Lord Maha
along with the members of the orchestra
Vishnu, and the wives of Dasaratha
on the stage. Therefore, the stage is not
receiving it are the other pictures. Among
provided with a curtain that covers the
Kausalya, Kaikeyi, Sumitra, the wives of
whole frontage. The specially improvised
Dasaratha, only Kaikeyi has been
wooden platform on which the play is
coloured with golden paint.
staged gives Chavittu natakam the
nickname Tattupolippan because the Child-birth scenes have been shown
actors used to stamp continuously with openly which makes us wonder whether it
their feet on the stage floor and produce is the influence of folk art. Several scenes
82
Religions
85
political and cultural aspects of life were who settled down in Cranganore
intimately connected with the temples. (Kodungallur), probably around the 7th
Slowly non-Aryan deities were century AD. According to tradition, Mali
accommodated within the Hindu fold and Ibn Dinar the pioneer of Islam in Kerala,
non-Aryan religious practises were also established mosque at Cranganore and
absorbed. Aryan and Dravidian aspects later on in different parts of Kerala. It is
of this syncretised Hinduism is typified by believed that a group of Muslim
the two classes of temples: the ambalams merchants who were followers of Prophet
or Aryan institutions dedicated to the Mohammed on their way to Adam Mala
worship of Vishnu and Siva and their in Ceylon visited Cranganore, which was
consorts and incarnations, and the an important centre of trade. It is also
Dravidian kavus in which Kali, Ayyappan believed that Cheraman Perumal, the ruler
and other Gods and Goddesses are of Cranganore, accepted Islam and went
worshipped. Serpent worship, ancestor to Mecca and met Prophet Mohammed
worship and worship of animals and trees in the 57th year of his age. There were
are some of the features of Hinduism many marital alliances between these
prevalent in Cochin. Arabs and the natives as well as
Islam conversions to Islam. The Muslims in
Cochin are mainly the descendants or the
Islam was introduced to Keralam by Arab offspring of such inter-marriages or
merchants, the pioneers of the spice trade, conversions from the lower classes among
87
Christianity
Christianity in Kerala is attributed to the around 68 AD, the accounts of Pantaenus,
visit of St. Thomas, one of the twelve the head of the Alexandrian school, who
Apostles of Jesus Christ, who landed at visited Kerala in 189 AD, the account of
Maliankara near Kodungallur in 52 AD. Cosmos Indicopleustes, a Byzantine monk
He preached the Gospel of his master, who visited Malabar in the 6th century AD,
first to the Jewish settlers in and around Marco Polo who visited Kerala towards
Cochin and then to the natives, some of the close of the 13th century etc. Prior to
whom converted to Christianity. He the arrival of Portuguese Christians who
established seven churches along the were Catholics, the St. Thomas Christians
Malabar coast. There are several were known as Syrian Christians (because
references to the early Christians here like they followed the Syriac (a dialect of
the Jewish traditional accounts dating to Aramaic) liturgy. The work of St. Francis
88
Festivals
They are very fond of
celebrating festivals. Durgapuja
and Deepavali are their main
festivals. Garbha, their
traditional dance is an
important item during these
festivals. Dandiya-ras Dance,
which continues throughout the
night during Navrathri, is also
important. Marriage is another
occasion for celebration. After-
death ceremonies are also
It is said that sweets, celebration, bhakti important for a Gujarathi.
and trade give an entirety of a Gujarathi.
He cannot avoid these symbols, which Journalistic ventures
forms an important part of his life. Though the Gujarathis are known for their
There are businessmen, peons, clerks and trading skills, the community excelled in
officers among Gujarathis in Cochin. publishing many magazines. The paper
There are so many shops and factories of Keralapatrika published in Malayalam
Gujarathis’ in Mattancherry Bazaar and from Cochin in 1865 was the contribution
Jew Town. Pepper, chukku, turmeric, betel of Devji Bhimji. For a proper
nut, copra, coconut oil, tea, rubber, coir, understanding between the native
90
communities and the Gujarathis, Kamal were the first white and blue collar-
Jeshapara translated various Gujarathi working women in India. They worked
literature to Malayalam. He also mainly in the fields of nursing, teaching,
translated Malayalam to Gujarathi. It was military services, clerical and social
he who published the weekly Deepthi. services.
Nouka, Cochin Patrika, Dakshin Bharath Among the Portuguese, Dutch, German,
etc. were other publications of the Swiss, Italian and English ancestries, the
Gujarathis. The Mattancherry Municipal majority has Portuguese ancestry. Their
Chairman, Poppetlal Govardhan Lalen, main centres were Fort Kochi, Kollam,
was another prominent Gujarathi. Kannur, Cranganore etc.
Jews
It is still not certain when exactly the Jews
arrived here. It is believed that they came
to Kerala during the time of King Solomon
in the 10 th century BC while another
treat them as their equals and hence did
tradition holds that they came here in the
not inter-dine or inter-marry with them.
6 th century BC to escape from the
By occupation they are mostly
Babylonian captivity of Nebuchednezzar.
businessmen, traders and shopkeepers
and have several religious shrines, cultural According to the tradition prevalent
and educational institutions. Having taken among the Cochin Jews, they made their
to the learned professions and callings in way to the Kerala coast soon after the
recent times, they form a prosperous destruction of the Second Temple of
community. Jerusalem by the Romans in 70 AD. They
settled at Muziris (modern Kodungallur).
Other Brahmin immigrants include the
Well received by the enlightened rulers of
Embrans from South Canara. Speaking
Keralam, they built synagogues and laid
Tulu they are employed mainly as priests
the foundations of a strong community
in temples. There are also a few Telugu
life. Under the Kulasekharas, they enjoyed
and Marathi Brahmins in Cochin.
several rights and privileges and the
Non-Brahmin Communities famous Jewish Copper Plate Grant of
1000 AD by the Chera emperor, Bhaskara
Among the non-Brahmin Paradesi
Ravi Varman, to the Jewish chieftain
communities, the Vaniyas deserve special
Joseph Rabban, is a standing monument
mention. They are Konkani Vaisyas who
of the religious toleration and goodwill
wear the sacred thread and resemble the
extended to them.
Gowda Saraswath Brahmins. An
93
Till the 15th century the Jews enjoyed a returned to Israel in 1948 with the birth
high status in society and established a of independent Israel. At present there
trading monopoly. In the 15th century they are less than members of the
had to flee Kodungallur to Cochin when community in Cochin.
the Moors attacked their settlements. The
The Cochin Jews were historically divided
Cochin Raja welcomed them and gave
into two major communities: the Black
them land and permitted them to build a
Jews, or Malabaris, who regard
town near his palace. This led to the rise
themselves as the descendants of the
of the Jew Town in Cochin in the beginning
original settlers, and the White Jews, or
of the 16th century. Paradesi Synagogue
Paradesis, descendants of immigrants
was built as their place of worship.
from various Middle East and European
The Jews led a relatively peaceful and countries. There are also a few Brown
prosperous life till the arrival of the Jews, or Meshuhurarum, who are
Portuguese who persecuted them. The descended from emancipated slaves.
Jews got solace only with the advent of They became spice merchants, business
the Dutch who followed a policy of owners and professionals and spoke
religious toleration. Under the British also, Malayalam as well as English.
they enjoyed freedom. Many of them
94
THE PORT,
AND A
LITTLE ON
COMMERCE
95
The industrialisation in Kerala has taken berthed in the outer seas and cargo
place mainly around Cochin. The supplied by large barges. The critical
presence of a major port providing turning point was its transformation in to
effective port service is the dominant factor a modern Port with safe inner harbour.
that drives the economy of the region. The This development was conceptualised and
port’s linkages to different industries like implemented by one committed
Oil Refinery, Cashew, marine, Tourism and individual. A British Harbour Engineer,
shipbuilding are extending from their Sir Robert Bristow who braved many
genesis to progress. hassles, made sacrifices and single-
There is always a close relationship handedly spearheaded the execution of
between existence of a port and prospect the decade long ambitious project.
of regional economic development. The As the hinterland of Cochin port rich
responsible role of a Port as the with spices attracted more and more trade
determinant of economic development is from across the seas, the need to expand
justified only if it transforms at pace with the port was increasingly felt in the early
the changing demands of the trade it twentieth century. In response to the
supports. repeated collective appeals of the trading
The old Port of Cochin operated with ships fraternity, it was Lord Willingdon, then
96
at the Vallarpadam Island. It will the should generate a large number of export
India’s first transhipment terminal. This oriented units. The Petronet LNG
terminal itself should provide direct and Consortium is in the process of setting
indirect employment of over 20000 up and LNG Regasification plant at
accompanied with predictable economic Puthuvypeen . An International Golf
development to the region. Course is also coming up in the
Taking advantage of its strategic Vallarpadam Island. The Central
position, the Port is also setting up India’s Government is supporting the projects by
first Bunkering Terminal to provide fuel assisting in achieving Railway and
for the large number of vessels passing Highway connectivity. The entire projects
through the busy Maritime Highway in would comprehensively bring in at least
close proximity to the Port. A Cruise over 60000 employment in Cochin and
Terminal is coming up in Cochin to Suburbs among other direct and spill over
provide dedicated facilities for the positive economic impacts.
increasing number cruise vessel that are The timely completion of these projects
tempted to touch the highly promoted and realization of the consequential social
tourism friendly Kerala. The Special and economic benefits would be the ideal
Economic Zone that is being set up at memorial for Sir Robert Bristow.
the Puthuvypeen and Vallarpadam Island
100
Kerala has its own place in the realm of educational institutions like the SRV High
learning and Kochi is one of the most School and the Maharaja’s College .
literate regions in Kerala. There are many The Cochin University of Science and
educational institutions of repute in the Technology is one among the major
city. universities of India,with many
The first English school was established professional courses in a variety of
in Kochi in 1918 by Rev. Sawson in disciplines such as Management,
Mattancherry. The Christian missionaries Language, Law, Fisheries and Technology.
had a prominent role in furthering the There are many Libraries in all parts of
cause of education in Cochin. the city and the most prominent among
The erstwhile rulers of Kochi were very them is the Ernakulam Public Library,
keen in imparting education to its subjects. which is one of the oldest in the state.
They took an active role in establishing
104
Culture
105
Kochi Legislative Assembly was constituted Pandit Karuppan: The great social
for the first time in 1925 in response to reformer and member of the legislative
persistent demands from the public over council left his mark in the social life of
a decade. There were 45 members of the state.
whom 10 were officially nominated. Changampuzha Krishnapilla: The
Thottakkattu Madhaviamma became the evergreen romantic poet of Malayalam
first woman to be a member of any literature lived and penned his melodies
legislature in India. in Kochi. The Changampuzha Park at
Kochi was the first princely state to Edappally is a green and live monument
voluntarily join the Indian union. Post dedicated to the memory of the poet.
independence, Ikkanda Warrier became Kesary Balakrishna Pilla: The doyen of
the first Prime Minister of Kochi in 1948. Malayalam literary criticism and the one
K.P. Madhavan Nair, P.T Jacob, C.Achutha person who introduced many new ideas
Menon, Panampilly Govinda Menon were to the realm of thought of Malayalees was
few of the other stalwarts who were in the born in 1889 and died in 1960.
forefront of the democratic movements.
G. Sankarakurup: Winner of the first
Thiru-Kochi state came into being in 1949 Jnana Peetha award, the great poet of
and Paravur T.K Narayana Pillai was the Malayalam was a native of Kochi. A
first chief minister. The ultimate merger of memorial for him is coming up in the city
Travancore, Cochin and Malabar took centre.
place on 1 st November 1956 and a
unified Kerala became a reality. Ponjikara Raphi: The short story writer and
novelist had Cochin as the milieu of his
Personalities literary works.
Sahodaran Ayyappan: Vyloppilly Sreedhara
Even a brief note on Menon: He was yet
Cochin will be incomplete another son of Kochi
without a mention of the whose contribution to
social reformer and leader Malayalam literature will
Sahodaran Ayyappan. He be everlasting.
was one of the first to
dream of a bridge to Justice V.R. KrishnaIyer:
connect the Ernakulam- Retired Supreme Court
Vypin-Mulavukadu bridge Judge, Humanist and
and even managed to get Human Rights activist.
the proposal approved by K.J Yesudas: The “Gana
the Kochi assembly when Gandharva” of Kerala
he was the revenue was born, brought up
minister. and flew on the wings of
melody in Kochi.
106
duration of their stay here. They are in and cultural groups co-exist even today,
the forms of structural monuments, coins, is marked by its rich customs, traditions
inscriptions, icons, texts, language and art and art forms. Cochin can be considered
forms. as a classical example of creating an
It is believed that the Greco-Romans came urban environment in which diversity
as early as in the first centuries of the becomes a source of strength rather than
Christian era and had very close of conflict.
relationship with this land for almost four Cochin has been the Chief Port of
to five centuries. It is believed that the Malabar for over centuries and it can
Arabs and Jews also had close tie-up with certainly attribute some links with Muziris,
the land during these periods. The one of the oldest and biggest port towns
Chinese and others from East Asia had of western coast of India. Centuries have
also started their interaction with the land rolled by since the arrival of ships laden
sooner or later. From the Medieval period with gold, glided slowly into the inner
onwards a strong presence of Chinese harbour, steering safely through the deep
was also visible. channel of the Vypeen River and anchored
Then the visible presence was that of the quietly in one of the finest natural harbours
Portuguese, starting from the 15th century. their wandering eyes had ever beheld, the
They built an ‘empire’ here and in the explorers who came in search of the exotic
process built buildings, forts, churches, Malabar spices.
houses etc. with an element of Portuguese Ernakulam was once the capital of the
in all of them. After some time the Dutch Kingdom of Cochin. The word ‘Cochin’
wrested the ‘empire’ from the Portuguese
and improved it considerably by giving a
touch of them to all those structures and
also by laying out streets and gardens.
The English in turn took it out of the hands
of the Dutch, but pulled down everything
their predecessors had taken so much
labour and expense to rear up, and all
but succeeded in putting back somewhat
to it’s old position of comparative
obscurity. Then there were people from
other parts of the subcontinent, who came
here at intervals and made Cochin their
permanent home. Gujaratis, Jains,
Konkanis, Punjabis, Tamils, Marathis,
Bengalis, Pathans, Kutchi Saits, to name
a few. This vibrant cultural landscape,
wherein almost sixteen different linguistic
108
derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Balapuri’. as the ‘Queen of Arabian Sea’, is redolent
It is stated in the ‘Kerala Mahalmyam’. in history. It is associated with a very old
‘Bala’ (small) ‘puri’ (town) thus became dynasty of kings known no less for the
Cochin in course of time. The other simplicity of their lives and the ancientness
version in this behalf according to Shri of their culture than for their boldness as
Achyutha Menon is that the word Cochin warriors and their efficiency as
is derived from the Chinese word ‘Conchi’ administrators. It is a tribute to the justice
which means the seat of the King. But and cosmopolitanism of these rulers that
according to the architect of Cochin Port, people of widely different castes and
R.D. Bristow, the Chinese traders gave the creeds have lived for centuries in happy
name to the place as Cochin; amity. Fort Cochin, Mattancherry and
remembering the name ‘Cochin’ China Ernakulam were the three Municipalities
of the present South Vietnam. which were in existence then in Cochin
area.
The very name Cochin rightfully known
109
Recent Works
K.P. Padmanabha Menon’s Kochi Rajya
Charitram and the History of Kerala are
monumental works. Known to the world
of letters as ‘Kesari’, A. Balakrishna Pillai’s
contributions to the literary world with his
short stories and translations are
remarkable. P. Kesavadev’s works like
compiled under the Dutch Governor Nati, Odayil Ninnu, Bhranthalayam, Oru
Henrick van Rheede. In the 19th century, rathri, Olakka and Ayalkkar depicts grim
considerable literary activity took place realities of social life. G. Sankara Kurup’s
under the patronage of the Kings of name is associated with symbolism and
Cochin. Rama Varma (1805-1809) wrote mysticism in Malayalam poetry. Among
a stotra in Sanskrit called Purnatrayisastuti his important works are Vilasalahari,
about the deity of the temple at Sahityakauthukam, Chengathirukal,
Tripunithara. His brother Kerala Varma Nimisham, Odakuzhal etc. and translation
(1809-28) wrote Purnatrayisasataka and of Gitanjali and Viswadarsanam. A
Dasavataraslokamala. Scholars like Arur notable poet of this region was K.P.
Madhava Atitiri (1765-1836) the author Karuppan (1885-1938), whose poems
of the Uttaranaishada, Krishnan Kartha had social justice as their theme. Paliath
of Cheranellur (1765-1845), the author Cheriya Kunjunni Achan (1881-1942) of
of Chitpuresastuti, Narayan Nambudiri of Chennamangalam was also a vigorous
Ilayedam (1770-1840) the author of the prose writer and poet. Edappally has given
111
birth to two of the most popular poets of Thottekat Ikkavu Amma like Subhadrar-
modern Malayalam Edappally Raghavan junam and T.C. Achyutha Menon’s
Pillai (1909-35) with Thushaharam, Naishdham have added to the already
Navasaurabham and Maninadam and rich literature. Such dramas as V.T.
Changampuzha Krishna Pillai (1913- Bhattatiripad’s Adukkalayilninnu
1948) with poems like Ramanan, Arangathekku, M.P. Bhattatiripad’s
Bhashpanjali, and Swararagasudha. Ritumathi and K. Damodaran’s Pattabakki
Vailopilli Sreedhara Menon is a poet of heralded a new era itself in Malayalam
considerable distinction. Vallathol drama. The first two mentioned brought
Narayana Menon (1878-1958), often to the stage the woes of the cloistered life
described as the poet of Indian led by Nambudiri women. The most
nationalism and freedom, wrote outstanding of the celebrities in the field
outstanding works like Badhiravilapam, of literary criticism in Malayalam are
Oru Katha, Kochu Sita, Magdalana Joseph Mundasseri and Kuttikrishna
Mariyum, Sahitya Manjari etc. Apart from Marar.
his original works, Vallathol also enriched
Malayalam literature with translations of Modern Period
the Valmiki Ramayana and the Rig Veda. Some of the important literary
Nalappat Narayana Menon has personalities of the modern period from
immortalised himself in Malayalam poetry this area are M. Leelavathy, Thomas
by his beautiful elegy, Kannunirthulli. The Mathew, M.K. Sanu (all of them critics),
poems of Kuttipurath Kesavan Nair Victor Leenus, Rajalakshmi, George
contain beautiful descriptions of the rural Joseph K., N.S. Madhavan, Sethu, T.R.
life of Kerala. Malayalam literature has Ramachandran, M.P. Narayana Pillai,
produced a number of other illustrious Radhakrishnan, Thomas Joseph etc. in the
poets who have won general acclaim, for field of story writing, and Balachandran
example K.K. Raja, Balamani Amma, Chullikad, V.M.Girija, Vijayalaksmi etc. in
Edasseri Govindan Nair, and P. the field of poetry.
Kunhiraman Nair etc. Dramas written by
112
Islands in Cochin
Mulavukad, Kadamakudi, Cheranellur, Bolgatty Island is opposite the boat jetty
Kumbalangi, Edakochi, Vallarpadam etc. at Ernakulam where the Bolgatty Palace,
are some of the islands that dot the built by the Dutch in 1744, and presently
backwaters in the Kanayannur-Cochin a Heritage Hotel stands.
Taluk. These islands, formed by the deposit
Gundu Island, barely 5 acres, is the
of alluvium brought down by the rivers
smallest island around Cochin. It was
during the monsoons, being low and
once used for the training of soldiers and
swampy favour the growth of coconut
manufacture of doormats from coir.
palms. Islands of Willingdon, Bolgatty and
Vypeen Island, lying north of Fort Cochin,
Gundu lie in the Cochin harbour.
has an old lighthouse and a 16th century
Willingdon Island, named after Lord Fort.
Willingdon, British Viceroy in India, is an
All these islands in Cochin, well connected
artificial Island of over 1000 acres. It
by ferry and some now by the new Gosri
forms the hub of all shipping, import and
bridges, are now major tourist attractions.
export activities and houses important
buildings like the Naval Airport, Customs
House, Government of India Tourist Office
etc.
113
Corporation
of
Cochin
115
The very name Cochin rightfully known and Palluruthy and Vyttila in 1953. In
as the "Queen of Arabian Sea", is redolent 1952 the then Edappally Panchayat was
in history. It is associated with a very old bifurcated and thus formed a new
dynasty of kings known no less for the Panchayat - It was Vennala. Gundu Island
simplicity of- their lives and the ancientry and 'Ramanthuruth" were the parts of the
of their culture than for their boldness as Elamkunnapuzha Panchayat and the
warriors and their efficiency as "Thanthonni thuruth" was the part of
administrators. It is a tribute to the justice Mulavukad Panchayat.
and cosmopolitanism of these rulers that The idea behind the formation of Cochin
people of widely different castes and Corporation was first shaped in the
creeds have lived for centuries in happy Mattancherry Municipal Council. The
amity. Fort Cochin, Mattancherry and Council passed a resolution requesting
Ernakulam were the three Municipalities Government to form Cochin Corporation
which were in existence then in Cochin amalgamating the Municipalities of
area. Ernakulam, Mattancherry and Fort
Fort Cochin became a Municipality on Cochin. It was on the 9th July, 1960. This
the 1st of November 1866. resolution was sent to Govt. by the
The first election to the Fort Cochin Council. The then Fort Cochin Municipal
Municipal Council was conducted on the Council strongly opposed to the proposal
6th December 1883. The strength of the and declared that Fort Cochin was against
Council was 16. any such formation. The Ernakulam
Municipal Council at its meeting held on
In 1896 sanitary boards were formed the 2nd August, 1963 put forwarded a
separately for Mattancherry and proposal to form Cochin Corporation
Ernakulam by the Maharajah of Cochin amalgamating much more suburban
and thus local administration came into areas. Thus the Govt. in principle
existence in these places for the first time. approved the proposal of formation of
Funds for the functioning of the Boards Cochin Corporation and appointed the
were given by the Govt. The town councils then Director of Local Bodies, Major
at Mattancherry and Ernakulam were Balagangadhara Menon, as Special
formed as per the above regulation. In Officer for submitting a report in this
1956 the erstwhile Elamkulam Panchayat behalf. He conducted surveys and studies
and a portion of Cheranallur Panchayat and submitted his report to Govt. on the
(Pachalam - Vaduthala) were 1st July 1967 and the Kerala Assembly
amalgamated tip the Ernakulam approved the formation of Cochin
Municipality. Corporation. Govt. of Kerala notified the
In 1962 a portion of Palluruthy Panchayat formation of the Corporation of Cochin
(Mundamveli area) was amalgamated to by amalgamating the three ancient
the then Mattancherry Municipality. Municipalities of the state, viz. Ernakulam,
Edappally Panchayat was formed in 1946 Mattancherry and Fort Cochin and the
116
117
Willington Island and four Panchayats viz. committees constituted by the Council,
Palluruthy, Vennala, Vyttila and Edappally reception to the distinguished guests,
and the small islands of Gundu Deepu, public grievances etc. are attended to
Ramanthuruth having an area of 83.524 by this department. People's plan wing
sq. Km. The new born Corporation came (10th 5 year plan) and decentralisation
into existence on 1st November 1967. wing are also under the control of this
Section.
Administrative Set Up
(3) Engineering Department
According to the 2001 census, Cochin
Corporation has 650,000 residents. The It is headed by the Corporation
city’s estimated density in 1996 was Engineer having the status of Supt.
6,250 persons per square kilometre. The Engineer vested with powers of Chief
total area of the main part of the city is Engineer in respect of Corporation
94.88 sq.km works.
(4) Health Department
Main Office
Health Department is controlled by the
It is the Head Quarters of the
Corporation Health Officer, General
Corporation and is located in the
sanitation, prevention and control of
east zone at Park Avenue. The Offices
communicable diseases, prevention of
of the Mayor, Deputy Mayor, Standing
food adulteration, mosquito control,
Committees and the secretary are
family planning, births and deaths
functioning in it. The following
registration, maternity and child
departments are also housed here.
welfare activities, licencing and control
(1) Personal Department & General of D. & 0. trades, etc. are dealt with
Administration by this department.
This department is under the control of (5) Revenue Department
the Personal Assistant to the Secretary,
The Revenue Officer is the head of this
general establishment, record, store,
Department. All revenue matters
marriage registration, town hall
related to the Corporation are dealt
reservation and other general
with in this office. The Corporation
administrative matters are dealt with in
treasury is under the control of the
this department. Establishment matters
Revenue Officer.
related to the regular establishment
employees are also dealt with in this (6) Town Planning Department
department. It is headed by the Town Planning
(2) Council Section Officer having the grade of the
Executive Engineer. Enforcement of
The Secretary to Council is the head of
the provisions of Building Rules,
this Section. All matters relating to the
encroachments, dangerous structures,
Council, standing committees, and sub
118
detailed Town Planning Schemes, etc. their problems connected with the
are attended to by this Department. Corporation.
(7) Accounts Department Janaseva Kendram is functioning under
Accounts Officer is the head of this the direct control of the Secretary and the
Department who is the financial advisor implementation Committee consists of
and internal auditor of the Corporation. the representatives of the service
All payments, preparation of daily, organisations and other selected
monthly and annual accounts, audit members of staff. The Committee
objection clearance, etc.are managed regulates the function of the enquiry
by this Department. counter by pointing out the defects and
its remedial measures.
In addition to the above departments
office of the Deputy Director of Local (9) ZONAL OFFICES
Fund Audit, Deputy Health Officer, Vital Fort Cochin, Mattancherry, Palluruthy,
Statistics are also functioning in the Edappally, Pachalam (Vaduthala), Vyttila
Central Office. a n d
(8) Janaseva Kendram Central.
The general public who call at the (10) MATERNITY AND CHILD WELFARE
Corporation Main Office is received at CENTRES
the "Janaseva Kendram" where all the 1. Edacochin 2. Moolamkuzhy
enquiries of the public are responded 3. Pandikudy 4. Thevara
well by the staff members specially posted 5. Elarnkulam 6. Thammanam
at the Counter. Here the public are well 7. Kaloor 8. Edappally
treated. Complaints in respect of non
burning of street lights etc. lodged at the All the above centres are functioning
counter are registered and appropriate under the control and supervision of the
and immediate remedial measures taken Lady Medical Officer.
on each case. Application forms, chalan Functions of Standing Committees in the
forms etc. are being issued at the counter Corporation of Cochin
itself. All applications, petitions,
1. The Standing Committee for
representations etc. are received at the
Finance
Counter and the receipt of the same are
acknowledged. Applications for birth (i) supervise the utilization of budget
and death certificates are dealt with by grants and watch carefully the timely
a special team of staff at the counter for assessment and collection of taxes, fees,
speedy action, as such things are urgently rents and other sums due to the
needed by the public. In short, the public Corporation;
can expect a good guidance from the (ii) inspect frequently the accounts of
counter, as to what is to be done to solve Corporation;
119
(iii) watch carefully the release of grants development plants of the Corporation
from the Government and its proper integrating the proposal of other Standing
utilization; Committees;
(iv) conduct monthly audit of accounts and III. The Standing Committee for Welfare
check the monthly demand, collection and deal with matters of Welfare of women
balance and abstract of receipts and and children, development of Scheduled
expenditure of the preceding month as Caste and Scheduled Tribe, Social
furnished by the Secretary; Welfare, Social Security Pension and
Financial Assistance, Slum improvement
(v) may, subject to such rules as may be
and Public distribution system;
prescribed, write off the sums due to the
Council as appears to the Committee as IV. The Standing Committee for Health
irrecoverable; and Education deal with matters of public
health and health services, sanitation,
(vi) scrutinise the annual accounts,
education and sports;
demands, collection and balance;
V. The Standing Committee for Works deal
(vii) prepare and present the budget
with matters of public works, housing,
estimate before the Council under Section
electricity, water supply, drainage and
286;
sewerage;
(viii) verify whether any amount proposed
VI. The Standing Committee for Town-
to be expended by the Corporation is
Planning deal with matters of town
within the budget provisions approved by
planning including regulation of building
the Council and whether there is sufficient
constructions, environment, urban
fund for this purpose;
beautification, promotion of art and
(ix) enquire into the allegations against culture and preservation of monuments
the employees of the Corporation if and places and buildings of archaic
directed by the Council and bring the importance; heritage value and natural
result of it to the notice of the Council; beauty;
II. The Standing Committee for VII. The Standing Committee for Appeal
development deal with matters of dispose of appeals on taxation and give
agriculture, soil conservation, social directions to the Secretary to levy tax in
forestry, animal husbandry, dairy respect of cases which escaped
development, minor irrigation, fisheries, assessment and to reassess under valued
small scale industries, co-operation, cases.
institutional finance and prepare the
120
Mayors of Cochin
K. K. Somasundara
Panicker
C. M. Dinesh Mani 01.02.1992 – 31.01. 1994
04.10.1995 – 2000
K. A. Ummer K. J. Sohan
01.02.1991 – 31.01.1992 01.02.1990 – 31.01.1991
C. A. Madhavan T. M. Muhammed
01.02.1989 – 31.01.1990 01.02.1988 – 31.01.1989
K. Balachandran
03.10.1979 – 02.10.1980 Mathew Paily
01.10.1983 – 30.09.1984 04.10.1982 – 30.09.1983
121
Mayors of Cochin
K. S. N. Menon E. K. Narayanan
03.10.1981 – 03.10.1982 03.10.1980 – 02.10.1981
K. M. Hamsakunju A. C. Jose
30.06.1973-31.12.1975 02.06.1972 – 30.06.1973
A. A. Kochunni
T. M. Aboo
02.06.1969 – 04.06.1971
04.06.1971 – 02.06.1972
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Cochin, the Queen of the Arabian Sea, has a vibrant cultural past. This
place witnessed the inhabitation of man at least from Neolithic period
onwards. A well documented history of two millenniums will tell us tales
about the intense human occupational activities on this beautiful
landscape. Time has brought in many changes to this land. Its natural
and cultural landscapes have been changed and in the process has
become a living repository of divergent culture and traditions. Though
the Corporation of Cochin has been very earnest in the efforts of
preservation of the cultural heritage of Cochin, for various reasons a
holistic, approach for themanagement of the cultural heritage of Cochin
has not been evolved so far.
It is this realization that led the Corporation of Cochin to establish the
CENTRE FOR STUDIES IN CULTURAL AND HERITAGE OF COCHIN
(CSCHC) an institution committed to espouse the cause of the rich and
vibrant cultural heritage of Cochin. The primary objective of the centre
is to develop an integrated approach for the preservation of the cultural
heritage of Cochin for the enrichment and education of present and
future generation. The centre seeks to develop, apply and make available
appropriate methodology for the preservation of cultural heritage through
research, training, field work and exchange of information. The centre
would provide leadership in engaging policy makers, business leaders,
educators and interested citizens in preservation efforts.
The Centre seeks to develop and disseminate necessary knowledge
concerning values, use and conservation of cultural heritage: It will ensure
that Cultural Heritage considerations are taken into account in all
planning processes. In a nutshell, this newly established centre envisages
playing a catalyst role in the preservation, conservation and management
of the cultural heritage of Cochin.
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