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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel

Editor in chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Designed for knit and terry towel.
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz Add value to your fabric by
HUE SOFT 800
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser Hydrophilic Cationic Softener
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)

Sub Editor
Akhi Akter
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Technical Team

Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz
Rakibul Islam
Al Takbir Mahim

Editor & Publisher


A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 28th July 2018 by


Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd.
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217
Tel: +88 02 55093682
Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd
Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd

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VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the


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not accept responsibility for loss or
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© All rights reserved to Amin &
Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 For Better Tomorrow
Volume 11, Issue 07 (July 2018)
Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
Bangladesh
ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
July 2018
Driving business with knowledge

On the Cover
www.textiletoday.com.bd
Bangladesh Textile Today

Volume 11 | Issue 07 | BDT 150, USD 10

See advertisement at page 05


See advertisement at page 17

The impact of Demographic


trade battle dividend- resisting

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf


between the outbound remittance
US and China
on apparel

Content
industry

How an effective
innovation hub can
help the sector to
survive and grow
“Manufacturers
and buyers both
should take
responsibility for
GmbH & Co. KG is a well know
Germany based textile auxiliaries
amid rocket high ensuring fair
cost of product”
manufacturing

See advertisement at page 13


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July 2018

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July’ 18 | Volume 11 | Issue 07

Editorial Country Profile Textile People


Wages to
be doubled Accounts 9.4%
of the country’s
total exports
The 6th
largest
clothing's
supplier in
the world
39 BSHRM gets new
executive committee

Retailers Today
The 3rd largest
clothing supplier Expecting
Loosing to the EU. 8-10%
increase in
competitiveness clothing
exports in
2018
Fuel prices to High cost of
be doubled doing business

12-15 How an effective


innovation hub can help 32-33 An overview of Turkish
textiles and clothing
39 Islamic fashion school
teaches modest .....
the sector to survive...... industry
Collaboration Today
Cover Story Sustainability Today

34-35
Everlight-ZDHC
Seminar 2018
42 Lindex-WaterAid
launched project to
improve RMG worker’s
offers sustainable health
16-20 Demographic
dividend- resisting
outbound remittance
solution for
Bangladesh’s .......

Top Story 38 9 organizations join


ZDHC ‘Roadmap to
Zero Program’
Factory Tales
Editorial
Mor Individuals attraction
e su
stai
na
ble sells
bu Strong position in ease
Incr
sin
es industrial community
s

More buyer
attraction
Employee to buy
branding products

Grab the
target market
End users End users
loyalty loyalty

22-24 The impact of trade


battle between the US
40 Cotton 2040, new
and China on apparel
industry
guide to help brands
source sustainable
cotton
45 Prospects of branding
and marketing for textile
manufacturers

Market Analysis Market Analysis


Textile World

26 Bangladesh’s apparel
exports to India up 115%
36 Vietnam’s textile sector
jumps to 5th position in
48-51 Market diversification
for further RMG export
growth
in FY18
the world
Cover Plus Spinning Today
Remediation Update
27-31
Manufacturers
and buyers both
should take
responsibility... 38 90% remediation of
Alliance factories is
52-54 Maksons Spinning’s
example of ensuring
high-quality yarn ...
complete
Textile Today
and
‘Sustainability’
Being a Bangladesh based global media; Textile
Today has been catalyzing the textile and apparel
industry to be more knowledge driven. Recently
‘Textile Today’ has been celebrating 10 years of its
publication and has declared below mission with in
their theme ‘Driving Business with Knowledge’:

Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel


‘Sustainability’
Human Capital Transformation being one of the
three pillars, Textile
Promoting Sustainability Today has taken
special initiatives in
helping companies
promoting their
‘Sustainable’
interventions.
Publication of
special
supplementary
magazines in four
different
Textile Today categories is one

special supplementary of such initiatives.

on ‘Sustainability’:
On the occasion of 10 years
celebration of Textile Today four
special supplementary magazines will
be published in 2018. These are

Last date of Advertisement/Advertorial Booking: Last date of Advertisement/Advertorial Booking:


15th August, 2018 15th August, 2018
Last date of content submission: Last date of content submission:
31st August, 2018 31st August, 2018

Last date of Advertisement/Advertorial Booking: Last date of Advertisement/Advertorial Booking:


31st July, 2018 15th December, 2018
Last date of content submission: Last date of content submission:
15st August, 2018 30th December, 2018

Individual/companies can submit:


Editorial, Case Studies, Results of piloting, Feasibility reports, Product/Service analysis, Interviews, News & Views etc.

Will be widely distributed in

Contact- M. +88 01775 999 748 | E. info@textiletoday.com.bd


Content July’ 18 | Volume 11 | Issue 07

Technology Today Denim Today Technical Textile

54 BRÜCKNER launches
new production facility
in Tittmoning, Bavaria
64 Agami Washing Ltd
focuses on innovation in
product development
78-79 Manufacturers need
to invest in digital
continuity
Exclusive Interview
Textile People

68 Ananta Garments Ltd.


bags ‘H&M Denim
Brands Award 2018’

Textile Icon
80 Prof. Nabi Khan selected for
the international ‘Holden
Medal Award’
55-58 Bangladesh RMG sector
should go for price
fixing policy… Textile World

Factory Tales-Textile
Icon

80 Huntsman Textile Effects


bags two DMAI awards

66-68 If Bangladesh could fix


some policy, it can be
the main player..... Technical textile

Printing Today
59-60 Fashion trade is being
diverted to online
following .....

Manufacturing with Pride 83 UBC discover process to


eliminate wrinkling in textile
composite manufacturing

63
‘Denim Expert Circular Fashion
Ltd.’ becomes
the first SAC 70 Quality assurance in
printing, the Square
member
among apparel
makers from
Fashions’ model
86 ‘Worn Again’ to accelerate
its patented recycling
technology
Bangladesh Sustainable Fiber

77 Lyocell fiber market


to hit $1.5bn by 2024 88 H&M profits shrink in first six
months of FY 2018

Factory Award
Fiber Today Sustainability Today

92 Price should be increased


Milk fiber extracted

The yarn is used in art Making Tows


considering huge .....
Dyed milk tows

News & Analysis


Milk yarn

87-88 16 apparel companies


received national export
trophy for FY 2014-15 72-74 Properties,
production and use
of milk fiber 92 Huge gap in workers’ and
owners’ proposition for
minimum wage
Editorial

How an effective innovation hub can help


the sector to survive and grow amid rocket
high cost of manufacturing
The business models and marketing also has to be aligned with the effective management system. Game-
changing ideas in design, process and product alteration should be encouraged. Besides innovation in
process and organization build up is a must.

Tareq Amin

The reality
While minimum wage increase has
Wages to
become imminent and another big be doubled
increase in gas price is to hit very
soon, the owners of textile and
apparel factories in Bangladesh
feared a severe aftermath. Many
expressed that this time the
industry won’t be able to absorb
these shocks. Increasing cost of
raw materials like cotton, dyes-
Loosing
chemicals etc. is to make the
competitiveness
situation more complex.
Current government before it
Fuel prices to High cost of
starts asking vote for next election be doubled doing business
will increase the wages for
private sector workers including Figure 1: Major cost increasing components are going to dry out the competitiveness of
textile and RMG sector. As the Bangladesh textile and apparel industry.
government already has increased
the salary of government workers, advantage was cheap labor, after struggling with increasing cost and
the increase in the private sector increasing wages, the wage will no lack of profitability will fall in a dire
is inevitable. Increasing cost of more remain at the bottom among situation.
living in Bangladesh has already the key competitors.
Being a cotton based industry,
made the lives of such workers At the same time to support the Bangladesh textile and apparel
very difficult. In this perspective, government’s ambitious plans, industry is heavily import-
while workers’ representatives the country is quickly becoming dependent for its raw materials
are asking for a living wage, the import dependent for its fuel and like cotton and other fibers, other
industry owners are in fear of so the cost is increasing at an input materials like dyes-chemicals
losing competitiveness if they unbearable rate. A country where and machinery. Prices of almost all
have to pay more than 30% they the garment industry came mainly above-mentioned input materials
are paying now. The workers’ because of the availability of have increased significantly
representatives are asking to abundant cheap natural gas; now in recent times. Factories are
almost double it up. While it is becoming dependent on LNG, struggling with the latest order
Bangladesh’s main competitive the costliest form of natural gas. portfolio for saving pennies. They
To cover up the huge cost of LNG, are also concerned about upcoming
So, not only the cost of the government has declared the orders, whether they will get an
human operations is going plan to increase the gas price for upcharge from buyers or not.
to be doubled within few industries. Most likely it will almost
Other operational and system
months but also the cost of be doubled. Eventually, the cost
related costs are also on the rise.
machine operations will be of electricity is on the rise as well.
As gigantic infrastructure projects
doubled. All together the So, not only the cost of human
are not yet in the position to
textile and apparel industry operations is going to be doubled
sooth traffic conditions around
who are already struggling within a few months but also the
industrial zones, and as the
with increasing cost and cost of machine operations will be
Chattagram port is struggling
lack of profitability will fall doubled. Altogether the textile and
with inefficiencies, cost of
in a dire situation. apparel industry who are already

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Editorial

transportation and shipment has


increased significantly. Due to
weight limitation in two major
bridges in Dhaka-Chattagram
highway the loading capacity
Resource Efficiency Design in Product & Process Branding & Marketing Adopting Technology
of cargo trucks has been halved & Automation icon
already. All together transportation
and shipment cost has been
doubled and in some cases, it has
been tripled.
All the above realities have
Effective Management for
brought up a burning question to Increasing Competitiveness
the industry how to cope up with
this situation to continue to do
business. There have been some
Figure 2: All major ways of increasing competitiveness depend on setting up effective
traditional ways of tackling such management
situations in the industry. Some
of them were effective enough
Management is a top down belated management decision
for them to survive in short-term
approach and culturing affects much more than a lethargic
but now it seems a real-time has
accountability and openness less motivated workforce.
come to make a real effort in the
to continuous improvement.
expected transformation to survive Management is a top-down
The strategies, vision, goals,
amid these challenges and also to approach and culturing
and ways to achieve the
continue to grow, otherwise the accountability and openness to
goals should be decided and
sector may collapse. continuous improvement. The
analyzed at the top most
The solution strategies, vision, goals, and
level of the company. An
ways to achieve the goals should
There has been a trend, when effective communication
be decided and analyzed at the
profitability went down, companies culture should prevail within
topmost level of the company.
asked for a new loan from banks the organization. This is
An effective communication
to buy new machinery to increase the time for textile and
culture should prevail within the
production capacity to increase apparel companies here to
organization. This is the time for
production. The main objective invest more in improving
textile and apparel companies
was to keep the total profit on management efficiency than
here to invest more in improving
the rise even though the rate of any other things.
management efficiency than any
profit goes down. With larger and other things.
vertical operations factories could
reduce overhead management Increasing management efficiency
cost and add fractions of profits not only means sending the next
of a garment factory. As a labor-
from different processes those generation for pursuing education
intensive industry importance
they were outsourcing previously. abroad and then waiting for him
of production efficiency is well
Meanwhile, such unplanned or her to come back and take the
accepted. Bangladeshi apparel
expansion and lack of focus on responsibility of an inefficient
manufacturers now keep industrial
‘core competence’ have made plant. Or it doesn’t mean hiring a
engineering departments at their
such factories severely vulnerable. foreign employee and depending
factory. But there is no doubt still
Many such factories are running on him. Or it also doesn’t mean
the companies have a lot others
and making losses every day purchasing the most sophisticated
to do.
now. Today they have no other and costly management
However, for any effective automation software.
options but to invest in increasing
improvements in production
management and production A proper effective management
efficiency, efficient management
efficiency to save their plants. means it itself will create experts
is a must. A proper efficient
Importance of manufacturing and leaders but the system will run
management is much more
excellence or efficiency has been smoothly without leaders. Textile
important than production
discussed well in Textile Today and Apparel company owners
efficiency. While the efficiency
April 2018 issue. The practical should not be fear of the fact that
of Bangladeshi workers is 77%
example shows small changes the people behind whom they will
(considering Chinese 100%),
could help save an amount invest and if they leave they will
the management efficiency is
equivalent to the total salaries lose everything. This is a wrong
definitely much lower. A bad and

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Editorial

A culture of continuous
learning has to be developed.
Knowledge has to be produced
and disseminated within the
companies. Companies have
to be connected with external
knowledge hubs.
What Textile Today can offer?
At this crossroad of the industry,
the importance of an effective
innovation hub should be well
understood. Companies and
professionals should come forward
to strengthen such knowledge
platform. Textile Today is working
relentlessly to establish such an
effective hub. With a motto and
slogan ‘Driving Business with
Knowledge’, Textile Today could
eventually prove itself as a trusted
and responsible partner of the
industry.
Figure 3: Three major area of work of Textile Today that can keep competitive advantage
of Bangladesh textile industry mitigating major challenges it is currently facing. Currently, Textile Today is working
in three main streamlines: 1.
Transforming Human Capital,
thinking. Companies should invest A proper efficient
2. Branding Bangladesh Textile
in developing a system which is management is much
and Apparel, 3. Promoting
established by men and women more important than
Sustainability. Training programs
and at the same time can sustain production efficiency.
and knowledge workshops are to
itself and create alternatives While the efficiency of
help the sector in transforming
within. Truly investment has to Bangladeshi workers
its human capital, which is the
be behind the human, but it itself is 77% (considering
core of any changes whether it is
will not depend on any individual Chinese 100%), the
small savings or an upside down
human only. A human system should management efficiency
change of the game. Factory Tales
be taken care of and cultured. is definitely much lower.
A bad and belated initiative is incorporating a great
However, decision making for team to help Bangladeshi Textile
management decision
investing in effective management and Apparel companies in setting
affects much more
is not been easy for company and implementing a branding
than a lethargic less
owners. They have seen many strategy. Besides Textile Today
motivated workforce.
failed cases. There are examples wants that Bangladesh becomes
where high paid charismatic a sustainability ambassador in
managers left the company leaving must for being vibrant, adaptable the textile world. And so Textile
the company owners in difficulties; and progressing. Today with all its activities and
they also saw how huge events is promoting sustainability
It is true that investment behind
investment behind management is creating an industrial base that
innovation requires careful risk
software simply bounced back. is strong reliable trustworthy and
study. But for Bangladesh textile
A careful visionary look and plan and apparel companies, it is sustainable.
is needed in proper strategy not at that sophisticated level. Herewith the Textile Today team
taking in setting an efficient It is more like common sense presents another issue of Textile
management. The system should innovations. The business models Today magazine representing
have in-built capacity to save and marketing also has to be the hard work of the team and
every waste, at the same time aligned with the system. Game- all men and women within the
it should culture the practice changing ideas in design, process sector. We welcome all owners and
of spending lot for taking out and product alteration should be professionals of the industry to
breakthrough ideas. Knowledge encouraged. Besides innovation in subscribe and to be associated with
management and innovation process and organization build up Textile Today by all possible ways.
system within the companies are is a must.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 15


Cover Story

Demographic dividend-
resisting outbound remittance
Conventional education system and insufficient technical professional orientation make our university
graduates uncompetitive and worthless in the technical job market

AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary, Research Fellow, Head of R&D, DCCI.

we have 1.8% Managers, 3.8%


Professionals and 1.9% Technical
experts of total workforce.
This small percentage of
manager and professionals in
Bangladesh indicates huge gap
of hard and soft skills that the
industry need in Bangladesh.
This incremental gap challenge
innovation led industrialization
and other spillover incidence
across our economy. This skill gap
in the managerial and technical
positions especially in RMG,
Textile, Power, Pharmaceuticals,
ICT, construction, ship building,
automotive infrastructure work
and consultancy sector have
created a window of opportunities
for foreign professionals in our
local job market with better pay
for competitive and international
standard quality skills.

Nowadays increasing population is prosperity, and creating jobs. Demand and supply gap of
considered as the blessing for any managerial staffs
The demographic advantage and
economy. China having 1.06 billion Our economy is progressing with
skill gaps in Bangladesh
people has created huge economic 7% plus GDP growth based on
and demographic dividend With the changing global trend, consistent economic operation
and transferred the benefits of demand of managerial and trend. The export earning and
demographic dividend in rest of professional soft skills is on the remittance account for large pie

the world and almost all populous rise in Bangladesh. Bangladesh of our growing GDP. Bangladesh
economies have undergone this today is the 8th largest country in is set to become Middle Income
economic transformation. the world as per latest population country by 2021 and developed
estimate. Bangladesh is going country by the Year 2041 based
In the changing complex global through this prime era of potential on skills, research, technology
economy, countries need to be demographic benefit but to realize and innovation led knowledge
equipped with industry driven them, we are required to improve economy. The on-going economic
technical, managerial and multidimensional young working growth of Bangladesh created
professional skills for better force development. The huge huge need for managerial and
utilization and human capital population has unfolded an avenue
professional skills to meet the
leverage to retain competitive of demographic dividend with 62.1
growing industrial and service
edge in industry. Managerial, million working age population. Of
the total population, about 59.5
sector needs. Unfortunately,
professional and technical our education system does not
million are employed in various
skills are always important for comply the industry-demand
public-private sector skilled,
any developing countries for unskilled and semi-skilled jobs in with requisite skills as University
fostering innovation, creating industry, service and agriculture backed Higher education and
business opportunities, increasing sector. The labor force survey scattered vocational education
productivity, integrating global Bangladesh 2016-17 showed that of Bangladesh are not aligned
value chain, tapping future as per occupation distribution-
industrial orientation.

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Cover Story

This weak state of the skill supply Demand of skilled workforce in Bangladesh by 2025
has opened up the opportunities
for foreign employees to be  Agro food  Construction  Health care
migrated into Bangladesh for  Hospitality & tourism  IT  Leather goods
meeting our needs. The current  Light engineering  RMG  Ship building

employment growth is 1.8% 677


whereas it was 3.1% between years
2003 to 2010. This severe fall of
employment growth has become a 261
matter of deep concern for all.
54 54.95 100 107 76.95 122.6
35
Labor force state in Bangladesh
•T
 he rate of youth unemployment
Increase in demand of skilled people(%)
is 10.9% and underemployment
is 18.7%.
of communication.
•T
 he workforce of Bangladesh will The outbound remittance The recruitment of foreign
surpass 76 million by 2025. scenario hardly comes employees cost huge budget
• 1 2.9 million new employment into the light as people to the local employers and
under 7th five-year plan and 10 thought the amount was increase the cost of doing
million employment through EZ very insignificant however business as well create external
development targeted. the recent news in an dependence. Our conventional
Indian Newspaper Daily education system and insufficient
•A
 ccording to “Labour Market
Industry is very alarming technical professional orientation
and Skill Gap in Bangladesh” labor
that Bangladesh is the make our university graduates
demand will be 88.7 million in 2025.
fourth largest source of uncompetitive and worthless in
•T
 he study projected that demand inward remittance for the technical job market ending up
for skilled workers in agro food India sourcing $10 billion with low-paid job and joblessness
sector will increase to 261%, annually from formal in many instances. It is common in
in construction sector 54%, source though Indian total our tertiary education system that
in healthcare sector 54.95%, inbound remittance is students are keener to business
in hospitality and tourism $69.1 billion. and social science education and
sector 35%, in IT sector 100%, to some extent the ICT education
leather goods sector 107%, light that create grossly specialized skill
engineering sector 76.95%, shortage in core technical sectors
government initiatives National
in RMG sector 122.6%, and in in Bangladesh.
Skills Development Council
shipbuilding sector 677% in
relating to skills development The aforesaid projection of labor
FY2025-26 and skill gap for
shows the commitment of the force in Bangladesh demands new
“skilled workers” is also high (40%)
government to address the current skill development in various major
in the IT and leather sectors.
weakness and much needed sectors and industries accordingly
•P
 roductivity of our workforces is improvements. we are required to undertake
77% considering Chinese workers programmes to address the large
Nowadays, local skilled people
100%, which is lower than our scaled demand of sector specific
are few in number and mostly
major competitors India 92%, skilled workforce from agriculture
being migrated to many countries
Vietnam 90% and Pakistan (88%) to service sector. The education
and local owners hardly rely
indicating the lower productivity system has to be aligned with
on local skilled workforce and
and efficiency. the industry needs through
that create the opportunities
•A
 round 5.5 million new entered for foreign employee in many consultation with relevant industry
into labor force whereas technical jobs especially in Textile, otherwise, we will gradually loose
only 4.57 million have got Steel re-rolling, merchandising, our local job market.
employment as per employment pharmaceutical, infrastructure and Bangladesh is one of the highest
labor survey. The graduate other heavy technical and high- outbound expatriate workforce
unemployment is around 11% in tech sectors. Technical experts nations having almost 9 million
the country and post-secondary mainly are from India, Sri Lanka, workforces abroad. Bangladesh
unemployment is around 6.4%. China, Japan and South Korea and marks double growth of labor
The demand of foreign workers & the Indians are highly preferred as migration in 2017 more than from
experts there are some commonalities in 2015 and this year it reached to
culture, lifestyle and convenience 3.92 lakh so far as per BMET.
Against the aforesaid state,

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Cover Story

India is the largest remittance role of skill development cannot be though Indian total inbound
recipient country followed by overlooked. Skill development not remittance is $69.1 billion. In
China and Philippines in world only enhances individual’s capacity addition, this news is blow to our
remittance market and Bangladesh of earning, but also transforms local unemployed youths and
ranks 8th position in league table. the nation’s workforce into a more economy though we were often
Due to soaring demand of skilled productive contributing towards told that remittance to India was
foreign workforce, Bangladesh the growth momentum of an around $5 billion but this exclusive
is losing the attention of global economy. news is not acknowledged by our
market as skill labor destination. Government. Bangladesh was the
The remittance inflow of
fifth largest remittance-sourcing
Remittance state of Bangladesh Bangladesh is always volatile
nation in 2014. The outbound Indian
as recorded over last couple
Today, lack of diverse skilled remittance remains within $9 billion
of years since our remittance
workforce is slowing the inward and mostly spent in education
market is mostly middles east
foreign remittance trend and spending, living, travel maintenance.
dependent and low and unskilled
increasing outward remittance.
labor recruitment ban in KSA There was a saying that the formal
Bangladesh received usually $14.5
for a certain time thinned our trade of India and Bangladesh is
billion per year and much of that
remittance health. The remittance around $6.5 billion with positive
is received from GCC region and
scenario of Bangladesh during trade balance however if we
mostly from KSA. Qatar and Oman
each quarter in FY2016-17 hovered consider informal trade, the size
have recently come up as large
around $3 billion, which was flexible of trade could be $7 billion plus.
remittance partner of Bangladesh
and unhealthy and turns to recover In the same line, if we consider
in recent years. The lion share
in FY 2017-18, the frequent change the informal outbound remittance
of our remittance is gained from
is not inspiring for our country. source, Indian bound remittance
the unskilled and semi-skilled
will exceed the given amount.
workforce working abroad. The Outbound remittance
remittance earned is likely to be The report of Newspaper also
The outbound remittance scenario
challenged due to recent ban of showed that Indian workforce has
hardly comes into the light as
labor export into Malaysian market relatively low earnings from KSA
people thought the amount
and volatile GCC diplomatic and other Middle East Countries
was very insignificant however
relation and replacement of foreign whereas higher earnings from USA
the recent news in an Indian
workforce by local people in job as more Indians work in USA to
Newspaper Daily Industry is very
market in KSA. support their high skill gap but
alarming that Bangladesh is the
the remittance of Bangladesh
For attaining sustainable growth fourth largest source of inward
from USA is very insignificant as
of an economy and improving the remittance for India sourcing $10
our labor market is tailored at low
living standard of its people, the billion annually from formal source

Bangladesh
remmittance
earning from
the world
$14.9
billion in 2017

Indian
remmitance
earning
only from
Bangladesh

10
billion in 2017

Figure: Double-edge Challenge for Bangladesh

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 19


Cover Story

skilled Middle east region not for Taking into account our economic, •B
 uilding Industry and academia
high skill jobs in western market. incremental industrial and partnership to meticulously deal
international labor market needs, this skill gap and development
The double-edged challenge
we are required to take the challenge.
We have double-edged challenge focused programmes and some
•F
 or increasing our migration in
in remittance shift-the slimming course of actions to improve our
developed and other potential
inbound remittance and likely skilled employment scenario in
countries, our training institutes
decline due to various geopolitical Bangladesh and resist the rising
is required to be equipped with
challenges on Bangladesh and outbound remittance flow:
curriculum and capacity aiming
on the other hand, retention of
•L
 ocal University graduates are at foreign market needs.
the inbound remittance tends to
to be prioritized in skilled mid
decline as more foreign currency is •V
 ocational training schools
and upper level position in major
going out of the country. Off late, are to be widespread in each
industrial sector.
the negative trade balance and upazilla across the country.
current account balance affect the •E
 mployees in operation level
•B
 road-based skill development
foreign exchange reserve where should be limited to only local
catering futuristic local and
the remittance is an element of
international labor market needs
primary earning. The recent trend is to be planned and enforced
Our conventional attitude to of soaring import accordingly.
low skill labor market target has and extreme •L
 iteracy and numeracy skills are
become suicidal and deprived us dependence essential for our outbound labor
from high value skill migration on foreign force so that they remain safe in
market orientation since long. consultants in earning and existence in overseas.
The recent trend of soaring our infrastructure Skill development is the core
import and extreme dependence projects, soaring priority of the government
on foreign consultants in our dollar value as the enabler of multiplier
infrastructure projects, soaring have declined socioeconomic operations
dollar value have declined foreign foreign exchange and excellence accordingly
exchange reserve and this growing
reserve and this government is to come forward
outbound remittance will be
growing outbound to bring necessary changes,
another blow to our foreign
remittance will programmes and relevant budget
exchange reserve. Meanwhile, due
be another blow and infrastructure in national
to negative trade and primary and
to our foreign budget to address the core issues
secondary income, the current
and challenges in this connection.
account balance is badly affected exchange reserve.
Bangladesh envisioned $117 billion
and government is working
from remittance by 2041 and this
hardest to manage it through
employees and Indian work target will remain far-cry and if
MPS tools. Since our import is
migration can be selective subject this outflow trend gets richer due
larger than export, the growing
to special need and permission. to negligence at highest policy
outbound remittance may shorten
making level therefore a nexus
our currency reserve and decline •G
 radual phase out of foreign
of demographic dividend and
our net earnings from hard earned employees through higher tax on
skill building is essential for all
remittance in Bangladesh. their income and income transfer.
upcoming industrial and economic
Steps to be taken •F
 or local skill development and well-being. With the given concern
retention, ToT can be introduced of soaring outbound remittance,
Despite all above, we are
for specialized skill jobs. we are required to implement a
optimistic that our gradual
• Industry/GDP ratio is estimated futuristic national roadmap entailing
development in education sector
40% by 2030, 35% by 2021 and local skill mapping and remittance
will positively change our skill
export revenue $54 billion by enhancement programme to
and management employment
2021. In order to realizing these implement in line with national
perspective in Bangladesh.
huge targets, we are required economic development agenda by
And, we are required to get
to have coordinated and shared year 2030 and 2041.
rid of external dependence of
technology transfer on almost all programme having Industry,
countries but this will take time. labor, Finance and Education
But, we can rely on some skill ministries to create, nurture in-
transferred from overseas for our country wide-ranging skills and
learning on short-term basis. engage them into industries.

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


To p S t o r y

The impact of trade battle


between the US and China
on apparel industry
Ashfaque Ahmed, MSc. (University of Manchester), MBA (IBA- University of Dhaka)
Director, Promoda Textiles Ltd.

Introduction whatever two governments are its practices, the President has
doing is good for neither the ordered USTR (United States
China and the United States are
general people for each country Trade Representative) to begin
the two biggest economies in
nor for the related industries in the process of imposing tariffs
the world. In 2010, China toppled
each country. of 10% on an additional $200
Japan to become world’s 2nd
billion of Chinese imports. It is the
largest economy. According to the What the US and China think
appropriate response under the
Center for Economics and Business about it?
authority section 301 to obtain
Research, China is expected to
President Trump promised to levy the elimination of Chinese harmful
take over the US as the world’s
against China over intellectual industry practices”. In response,
largest economy. Thanks to the
property concern. Based on that Chinese Minister of Trade said, “It
China’s comparatively cheap labor
on 29 June US implemented $34 is totally unacceptable for the US
and government policy that helped
billion worth of tariffs on Chinese to publish the tax collection list in
the economy to tremendously
grow after its entry in globalization
in 1990. At that time, the US
supported China’s inclusion in the
WTO (World Trade Organization).
Today they are thinking that it was
a wrong decision to help China.
After the economic turndown in
2008, the Obama administration
had taken various steps to recover
it. United States’ huge spending
to fight terrorism in Afghanistan,
Iraq, Libya, and in Syria made
things too difficult. That is why, in
the election campaign President
Donald Trump announced to
take measures to increase the Figure 1: The trade battle between China and US is hurting the world and themselves.
productive development in the
imports. Another $16 billion an accelerate upgrade. We express
US. A new tariff on the Chinese
tariff was already in the pipeline. of solemn protest. This behavior
goods might cause inflation in
This will include solar panels, of the US is hurting China,
the US, however, at the same time refrigerators, washing machines, hurting the world, and hurting
commentators expect a rise in etc. No sooner the announcement themselves. In order to safeguard
American jobs specifically in high was made China also imposed the core industry of the country
tech industries. tariff of equal $34 billion worth of and fundamental interest of the
As quick responses to the US goods coming from US to China. people, the Chinese government
impose of tariff, China has also Robert Lighthizer, US Trade will, as always, have to make the
announced of implementing tariff Representative expressed with countermeasures.”
on the same value of American anger that was done without
What are in the $200 billion tariff
goods for China. This trade war any legal basis or justification.
list?
between two biggest economies In a statement Lighthizer
will affect the global economy said, “As a result of China’s The list is available in USTR’s 195
in big scale. It is for certain that retaliation and failure to change pages report includes the bulk of

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


To p S t o r y

what consumers would buy from Guardian, 29 May 2018]. President Trump’s position was
the supermarket plus much of the strongly supported by his trade
The Western world was believed
raw materials that go into what advisor Peter Navarro who is the
to lead the research and
they would buy to wear. Cotton and co-author of the book “Death
development for the whole world
all the things related with textile by China”. Navarro later made
and lead the world with new
production (cotton yarn, cotton it into video documentary to
technologies and advancements.
sewing thread, cotton woven fabric,
The new tariff will cover goods show China’s rise has suffered
cotton waste) will face 10% of
tariffs for companies that would
The U.S. imports these products from china
bring the goods from China. Nylon
yarn, polyester yarn, viscose, jute,
hemp, and pulps of cellulosic
materials are also in the list.
In addition, coconut and other
29% Electronics
vegetable fibers companies are
turning it to sustainable raw
material alternative. Laccases dies
fabric across most raw materials,
22% Machinery
non-woven, terry fabrics, lace,
tulle, and leather are on the
target list. Apparel and clothing
6% Furniture & bedding
accessories made of plastic,
plastic vulcanized rubber, fur 5% Apparel
skins, and cellulosic fibers will also 5% Toys
face new tariffs.
Vehicles
As far as accessories, handbags,
sport bags and travel goods like Footwear
suitcases and vanity cases will face
tariffs. There will also be tariffs
Data: US International Trade Commission
for shoelaces, hooks, eyelets,
and polishes for leather goods. Figure 2: Products those are imported by US from China.
Furthermore, brands and retailers
will pay for the packages they
related to “Made in China US economy. In the 21st century,
import too, Collie, garments label,
2025” program that the Trump China’s export has grown by
folding cartons, boxes, packing
administration believes to harm seven times today than that at the
consultancy, etc. on the list.
companies in the US and around beginning of 21st century. It is at
Why US want to put tariff on the world. The policies included present world’s biggest exporter
Chinese goods forced technology transfer that of goods with a value of nearly $2
There are several reasons that US can be got from licensing at trillion a year [Andrew Walker, BBC
put tariff on the Chinese goods. It less than regular price, Chinese Economics Correspondence, July-
is a big part of election campaign government’s acquisition of 12, 2018].
of President Trump to reduce the ‘strategically sensitive technology
Implications of trade battle
trade gap between US and other and cyber-theft’.
countries by restricting imports Due to the impose of new tariff
Trump administration believes
and increase US’s own productive lines on Chine goods by the US
that many US jobs were lost due
sectors. the result will be significant for the
to globalization and unfair play
apparel and footwear industries.
Though it was announced almost by many countries including
There will be a general increase in
two years from President Trump’s China. It was his main manifesto
price all through the supply chain.
presidency but this aggressive that saw him winning the 2016
There is expected to be inflation
announcement was not a Presidency election against the
on consumer products in the US
surprise. It was the first effort to big time favorite Hilary Clinton.
Unfortunately, this has to be paid
reduce a $337 billion trade deficit Most of the commentators said
only by the American consumers.
between US and China. The initial that it was bluster. However, Trump
part will impose a 25% tariff on administration is adamant to put It is estimated that more than
$50 billion of Chinese goods, on swinging tariffs on Chinese 84% of the US travel goods are
which are said to be, “industrially goods and pull the US out of as imported from China. This will
significant technology” [The many trade deals as possible. potentially affect the apparel,

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 23


To p S t o r y

footwear, and accessories brands hi-tech telecom and internet in Bangladesh may face a little
for being expensive and struggle in services can cheaply be provided more competition but with the
the US market for being expensive. to the people of Bangladesh in a transfer of fast fashion category,
The items under apparel section free trade economy. With added they may assume to be stronger.
were added in the latest round of tariff on Chinese goods and when
If Chinese producers making for
tariffs. This came after a public it comes to apparel, the landed
US are hurt they will aggressively
comment period. It is of no surprise price for the China made goods
seek for new markets in Europe,
that a certain group of the US will be higher compared to others.
Latin America, Australia, Far East
citizen believes that though there In that area, the next countries can
Asia, etc. where suppliers from
will be an increase in retail price compete to take as much as from
Bangladesh will experience a little
but it would potentially bolster those are lost by China. Therefore,
more difficulty.
the domestic industry capable of it is not difficult to understand
making clothing and fashion. Now question is that in the
event of growing landing cost of
NCTO (National Council of Textile
the Chinese made apparel- will
Organizations) appreciated the
Bangladesh be able to catch those
announcement of additional With added tariff on orders rebounded from China.
tariff and has suggested Trump
administration to add more Chinese goods and With no preparation Bangladesh
categories of finished textile and when it comes to would most likely start to day
apparel into next tariff list. dream, however, substantially will
apparel, the landed not be able to get any benefit from
On the other hand, retailers are
not happy with Trump’s latest tariff
price for the China there. Just look at the US business
at present in Bangladesh. Walmart,
move. They think that this crazy made goods will be Sears, JC Penny, GAP, Levi’s,
strategy would account for $200
higher compared to Phillips Van Heussen, etc. all these
billion worth of Chine products
subjected to tariff that could others. In that area, businesses are being controlled
from business hub in India.
potentially hit back to harm US the next countries can Therefore, Indians are getting most
families and workers. Again, the
Chinese retaliation could destroy
compete to take as of the benefits out of these US
‘millions of US jobs, hurt farmers, much as from those retailers.
local businessman, and entire
community’.
are lost by China. Apart from these most of the US
importers want to buy in a LDP
The tariff battle and Bangladesh
Therefore, it is not (Landed Duty Paid). Bangladeshi
apparel industry difficult to understand exporters do not want to accept
this payment system. It is true that
Today, we are living in a global with such tariff on they can go for secured payment
economy. A fair trade between
Chinese apparel the under LC and shipping term
the countries must serve the best
interest of everybody. John Divine, export and price of FOB. But if we do not try to be
competitive by accommodating
Senior Investing Officer at US News Bangladesh apparel is customer’s term then we slowly
and World Report describes the US
economy in the light of tariff war
expected to increase. loose the US market which
consumes two third of world
‘as Pandora is out of its box’.
economy.
Apparel industry will take a big
with such tariff on Chinese Bangladesh government and
hit in the light of US’s $200
apparel the export and price of BGMEA must start negotiating
billion in tariffs on China. Due to
Bangladesh apparel is expected to with the US to qualify for FTA
globalization no country has the
increase. (Free Trade Agreement) and start
internal capability to match global
efficiency for the production of At the same time, when Chinese preparing financial package so that
goods and services. Therefore, garment factories will lose our manufacturers can work under
when we can avail ourselves of business then Chinese textile mills LDP/ Cash on Delivery as secured
the global efficiency then it is have surplus raw materials such as FOB/ LC at sight. Otherwise,
as yarn, fabrics that will be sold in there will still be influx of US
comfortable for the people of a
Bangladesh at a more competitive orders being controlled by Chinese
country to get something easily
price as a result of competition
at a low cost. For example, due to and India importers. Those orders
among Chinese mills. Therefore,
cheap labor cost in Bangladesh a will have no price because most of
there is a slight chance that the
T-shirt is much cheaper in Europe the margins will be taken away by
woven fabric mills and denim mills
than a burger. For the same reason, importers in their pocket.

24 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


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Market Analysis

Bangladesh’s apparel exports


to India up 115% in FY18
Special Correspondent

Bangladesh’s apparel exports to However, the export earnings from


India, a close competitor in the the neighboring country could be
global markets, have seen a sharp more, if the non-tariff barriers are
rise by 115% to $279 million in removed.
the last fiscal year. Exporters and
trade analysts attributed quality “India is a very potential market for
and reasonable price of clothing Bangladesh as it has the second
products for the sharp rise in largest population after China.
export earnings. While there is middle class with
handsome disposable income,”
In fiscal 2017-18, Bangladesh’s RMG Figure 1: Bangladesh’s apparel exports to former caretaker government
exports to India stood at $279.19 India have seen a sharp growth of 115% in
Finance Advisor AB Mirza Azizul
FY 2017-2018.
million, up by 115% compared Islam said to Textile Today.
to $129.81 million in the FY17, a good sign for Bangladesh. Due
according to the Export Promotion to competitive price and quality, In tapping the opportunity,
Bureau (EPB) data. demands of Bangladeshi products Bangladesh government has to
increased in the Indian markets. boldly negotiate with the Indian
Of the total amount, Knitwear government to remove non-tariff
As a result, exports earnings
products earned $71.05 million, trade barriers, said AB Mirza
rose significantly,” Exporters
which is 89.75% higher than the Azizul Islam. He also suggested a
Association of Bangladesh (EAB)
$37.44 in the same period a year common standard, which will be
President Abdus Salam Murshedy
ago. Woven products earned effective in all provinces in India to
said to Textile Today.
$207.62 million, up by 124.79%, ship goods.
compared to $92.35 million a year On the other hand, global brands
ago. are opening outlets in India “Non-tariff barrier is a great
and sourcing from Bangladesh, challenge for Bangladesh to
On the other hand, Bangladesh’s expand exports volume as well as
which may be another reason
overall exports to India have value. In taping the opportunity
for the recent rise in export
registered a 29.87% growth to in Indian markets, Bangladesh has
earnings from India, said Salam, a
$873.27 million in the FY18. to focus on harmonizing common
Former President of Bangladesh
“Bangladesh apparel exports to Garnishment Manufacturers and standards for trading,” said
India have seen a sharp rise, it’s Exporters Association (BGMEA). Mohammad Hatem, Former Vice
President of Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
300 279.19
Association (BKMEA).
The government should stress
250 on improving the bilateral
trade relationship between two
200 friendly countries. On top of that,
Bangladesh has to improve the
connectivity with the boarder area
150 136.42 129.81
such as with seven- sister to grab
96.95 104.25 more market share in India, he
100 added.
The trade deficit with India is
50 the highest in the Asian region
and exploring more opportunity
0 in Indian markets, will help
2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18 Bangladesh to reduce the traded
Figure 2: Bangladesh apparel exports to India from FY14 to FY18 (in US$ million). gap, Mohammad Hatem added.

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Cover Plus

European Union (EU), one of


the main export destinations
for Bangladesh Ready Made
Garments (RMG) products,
is the largest trading partner
accounting for more than 25
percent of Bangladesh’s total
trade. The EU works closely with

Manufacturers Bangladesh in the framework of


the EU-Bangladesh Co-operation

and buyers both


Agreement, concluded in 2001.
This agreement provides a

should take
broad scope for co-operation,
extending to trade and economic
development, human rights,

responsibility
good governance and the
environment. EU imports from

for ensuring fair


Bangladesh are dominated by
clothing, accounting for over
90% of the EU’s total imports

product…….
from Bangladesh.
H.E. Rensje Teerink, Ambassador
of the EU to Bangladesh, in a
recent conversation with Textile
Maintaining the economic growth is a big challenge for Today opens up about trade
Bangladesh. The country needs to diversify its exports, as it is relation between Bangladesh and
severely dependent on garments sector. Said H.E. Rensje Teerink, EU, safety condition in Bangladesh
Ambassador of the European Union to Bangladesh garment industry, labor rights
H.E. Rensje Teerink, Ambassador of the European Union to Bangladesh issue, fair product etc.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 27


Cover Plus

Textile Today: How do you see the responsibility also. The number
economic growth of Bangladesh? of young people entering the job
Is it on the right track? market every year that would be
another big challenge to provide
H.E. Rensje Teerink: I think job opportunity for these young
Bangladesh is doing very well. people. Bangladesh needs to
Bangladesh is one of the countries focus on social protection issues
of South Asia that has sustained and EU is supporting Bangladesh
high growth more than 7 percent with their development
in the last few years, which is a cooperation programs. EU is
very good trajectory. I think we mainly focusing on primary and
are also very hopeful in seeing secondary education, including
the whole graduation exercise to vocational education and training.
graduating from the LDC group EU also has a very large budget
and that should happen if this for supporting social protection.
continues by 2024. I think this is These are the important
quite commendable to see that this areas where EU can support
year there was a big ceremony for Bangladesh.
graduation that Bangladesh is one
of the few countries that actually Textile Today: Bangladesh will
managed to attain the three turn into a Developing Country
criteria. This achievement needs from the Least Developed
to be maintained and has to be EBA facilities can Country by the year 2027. How
reassessed over the six-year period. be withdrawn, if the can Bangladesh prepare for
It means that 2024 is the first date the transformation? In which
European Commission
that the graduation can actually pattern EU-Bangladesh trade
happen. Bangladesh has already sees any country will be transformed after the
attained a lower middle-income which is privileged by transformation?
status in 2015. Therefore, I think the EBA, but that is
we can be very optimistic but that H.E. Rensje Teerink: Normally few
not respecting human consequences are there related
does not mean that there are no
challenges. I think the challenges rights, turning back to this process. One is that the
are to maintain the growth; it is democracy etc. It is eligibility for funding as an LDC
country will be disappeared.
to diversify the exports as now it not that this is always
is very much dependent still on This will have an impact on ADB
guaranteed. I think (Annual Development Budget),
textiles of course and the garments
sector but it is also attached to be for Bangladesh what and the World Bank how they
a more crowded export market. is important is to will provide loans etc. For the EU
we have an instrument, which is
Newcomers are also coming into make some progress
the trade. So, for Bangladesh to called Development cooperation
to become fully ILO instrument. Once Bangladesh
maintain this position will be quite
a big challenge. compliance. In terms will have graduated, it will not
of labor right, what be eligible anymore to receive
Thereby diversifications are this development funds. That is
we think is that there
needed; some sign of progress not to say that there will not be
are already made in the should be some funds from other instruments for
pharmaceuticals. I think another changes in the labor Bangladesh. We have partnership
important thing is to focus on law especially in EPZ. instruments like NGOs, non-
inclusive growth, have to take state actors etc. Especially in the
The labor should
everybody along. I think that investment program where we
is a little bit of a challenge for not be subjected to feel that we need to cooperate
Bangladesh that it has not more exploitations as with the private sector also.
performed as good as some other anywhere else in the So there will still be avenues
countries in South Asia as per as for cooperation but there will
country. Therefore,
inclusive growth is a concern. no longer be development
these are the things cooperation instruments as we
Bangladesh should also focus on that need to be looked have now. For which we have
other global vulnerabilities like
into. 700 million Euros for Bangladesh
climate change. All industrialists starting from 2014 to 2020.
of the country need to take the

28 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Cover Plus

There are also trade applications addition, slippages are also a part. H.E. Rensje Teerink: I think it is
as well. Bangladesh is benefitting It is not like that once a factory not a question of capability. I am
from ‘everything but arms skill’ is safe, it will still be safe enough sure Bangladesh will be capable.
under the GSP resume. That until next year. There should be However important to be assured
means quota-free and duty-free regular inspections. I think there that whatever monitoring will be
access to the European Union is the importance of Accord and in the place they do it genuinely
of everything from garments to Alliance to oversee this process. and transparently. Bangladesh has
pharmaceuticals except of course We feel that they should be to make sure that the inspection
arms and ammunition. This will allowed to stay in Bangladesh. will be done accurately. It is not
have to change and Bangladesh Engagement can be done in a matter of technical capacity.
will have to apply for GSP+. EBA a better way than they have What Ministry of labor is doing is
facilities can be withdrawn if the done so far. Even BGMEA have training a lot of engineers to really
European Commission sees any realized their own interest to work be ready for that. However, the
country which is privileged by the together with Accord and Alliance. main question is, of course, to be
EBA, but that is not respecting It has rebranded Bangladesh to an honest with the inspections. The
human rights, turning back important extent also in Europe. Industry really needs to continue
democracy etc. It is not that this After Rana Plaza, Bangladesh on this path to be safe in future.
is always guaranteed. I think for
Bangladesh what is important is to Textile Today: Now at this
I think there is a lot of
make some progress to become moment, the cost of garments
responsibility for the
fully ILO compliance. In terms of production in Bangladesh is
buyers, because you cannot
labor right, what we think is that increasing day by day. On the
only one hand expects other hand, the EU buyers are
there should be some changes in
to have a fair product on asking for a lower price. Survivals
the labor law especially in EPZ.
the other hand squeezing have become very difficult for
The labor should not be subjected
to more exploitations as anywhere ultimately the labors. On Bangladesh apparel sector. How
else in the country. Therefore, the part of the buyers, there could this problem be overcome?
these are the things that need to are a lot of practices that
H.E. Rensje Teerink: This is a very
be looked into. are difficult to handle for
big problem. I think there is a lot
the manufacturers like
Textile Today: What is your of responsibility for the buyers
late orders or changes.
viewpoint on safety condition in because you cannot only one hand
Ultimately, I think it is the expects to have a fair product,
the Bangladesh garment industry
consumer that needs to be on the other hand, squeezing
after the completion of the 1st
more aware. In Europe, ultimately the labors. Workshops
phase of Accord & Alliance?
How do you evaluate Accord this process is happening. like responsible purchase practices
& Alliance in terms of safety I think the whole concept are an important first step that
transformation in Bangladesh of fast fashion needs to those manufacturers and the
Apparel Sector? go ultimately, because the buyers are sitting around the
concept is not eco-friendly. table and looking at what are the
H.E. Rensje Teerink: Sorry to say, problems and what are the way
I have not been able to visit a lot outs. On the part of the buyers,
of factories so far. It is my plan there are a lot of practices that
suddenly became known as the
to do so. What we hear from our are difficult to handle for the
sweatshop country where people
compact partners and from the manufacturers like late orders
were working on miserable
Accord and Alliance as well is or changes. The European
circumstances. Now I think this is
that an enormous progress has Commission has a small project,
important to keep the image that
been made in many factories. which is funded by DG trade on
a lot has changed. In addition,
Many factories also have been responsible purchase practices in
the role the government sector
closed. Many factories have the garment sector. This is some
has played in uplifting millions
really managed to upgrade their funding that goes to address this
of people from poverty and
facilities. Accord only looks at the problem. Ultimately, I think it is the
empowering especially the women
export-oriented factories. It does consumer that needs to be more
who are actually the workers in
not look into those factories that aware. In Europe, this process
the industry.
are producing goods for the local is happening. I think the whole
market. So, it’s not to say that the Textile Today: Do you think concept of fast fashion needs to
entire sector is totally safe. What that Bangladesh is capable of go ultimately because the concept
we also hear that the factory ensuring the safety in Garment is not eco-friendly.
safety is a long-term process. In manufacturing on its own?

30 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Figure: H.E. Rensje Teerink was in conversation with Textile Today

Textile Today: You know that would happen in September. That easily come to Bangladesh and
around 4.5 million people are will show really a commitment that invest. It would benefit everybody.
working in the Textile and Bangladesh is ready to become
ILO compliance. In addition, this Textile Today: The US
Apparel industry. Their wages are
will help the labors to organize government is imposing new
one of the lowest in the world.
themselves. tax and tariffs on trade. We are
How can the Apparel industry pay
seeing the similar reply from the
more for them?
Textile Today: Bangladesh EU and China. What will be the
H.E. Rensje Teerink: I was Textile and Apparel industry is impact of this in global textile
quite surprised to learn that one of the largest in the world. business?
Cambodia who has not really There are many opportunities
for EU companies to invest in the H.E. Rensje Teerink: I think it is
signed to the ILO conventions
backward and forward linkage. regrettable to see that electoral
is actually paying much higher
How do you see this? trade rules are little bit being
wages to their garment workers
sacrificed for short time political
than here in Bangladesh more
H.E. Rensje Teerink: I just want gains. I think the EU never wanted
than double. Here probably
to say that for companies to to be a part of that. We are in a
the manufacturers who have to
invest in Bangladesh there are global market. If the US signals out
really look at this and try to pay
still many hurdles. Bangladesh’s to the EU for tariffs and order stiff
more fair wages. The workers
growth model is incredible that in that way we have to respond.
are earning 5700 tk. per month.
Bangladesh has achieved such a That I do not think has any impact
There should be the realization
high growth level of more than 7 so far on Bangladesh. Bangladesh
that workers need a higher wage.
percent despite it being one of still continues having this trade
In order for that to happen, the
the most difficult countries to do privileges for export to the EU.
labors themselves also need to
business. If you see the ease of Bangladesh has a duty-free and
be able to organize. Freedom
doing business report that came quota-free access to the EU. That
of association is needed. Labor
out recently a couple of months shows our commitment. I do not
rights are important here. This
ago Bangladesh is at a 140th place think any changes until unless
is where Bangladesh is lagging
quite a near the bottom-most Bangladesh graduate or we find
behind. Necessary amendments
for ease of doing business. The that Bangladesh is not progressing
are needed for Bangladesh labor
government is trying to harmonize satisfactorily on certain key issues.
law and especially the EPZ law. By
the rules etc. There should be more
the time hopefully, this laws will go
progress that the investors could
to parliament. We heard that this

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 31


Country Profile

An overview of Turkish
textiles and clothing industry
Akhi Akter, Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz

The Republic of Turkey, stretching from southeastern


Europe across the Anatolian peninsula in western
Asia, has a textile manufacturing history dating back
to the Ottoman Empire. Today, Turkey also remains Accounts 9.4% The 6th
among one of the world’s most important textile of the country’s largest
total exports clothing's
and apparel manufacturing countries. After vehicles, supplier in
clothing is Turkeys’ most successful export product, the world
which earned 9.4% of the country’s total exports, of
them knitwear amounted to US$ 8.8bn (5.6% of total
export), while exports of woven clothing reached
US$6.0bn (3.8% of the total) in 2017.
Exports of both the Turkish textile and clothing The 3rd largest
industries achieved a modest growth in 2017, rising clothing supplier Expecting
to the EU. 8-10%
2.5% and 3.0% respectively. Industry leaders have
increase in
predicted that 2018 will be better. Last year, textile clothing
exports amounted to around US$10bn and clothing exports in
2018
exports to around US$ 17bn. Hikmer Tanriverdi,
Chairmen of the Istanbul Apparel Exporter’s
Association, forecasts an 8-10% increase in clothing
Figure 1: Turkish apparel industry at a glance.
exports in 2018.
According to World Trade Organization (WTO) data Apparel export trends
2016, Turkish clothing industry with a share of 3.39% For the last two years, the industry has been stable
is the 6th largest supplier in the world, and the 3rd despite geopolitical conditions in the neighboring
largest supplier to the EU. It has a share of 4.06% countries and diplomatic tension between Turkey
in knitted and a share of 2.73% in woven clothing and leading European Union (EU) countries. With
exports in the world. its fashion-oriented and quality products, Turkey
Strengths of Turkish textile and apparel industry has been increasing her share in the main markets,
especially in the European market.
Turkish textile and clothing industry has a significant
role in world trade with the capability to meet In 2014, the total value of clothing exports was US$
high standards, and can compete in international 16.26 billion. Approximately 80% of the clothing
markets in terms of high quality and a broad range exported is cotton clothing. Knitted clothing and
of products. Turkey exports not only readymade accessories, with an export value of US$ 10.02 billion,
garments; it also exports fabrics to the world. had a share of 61.66% in total clothing exports, and
European countries, including Italy, Russia, Germany, woven clothing had a share of 38,34% with a value of
Romania and Bulgaria etc. are the most important US$ 6.23 billion in 2014.
markets for Turkey’s fabric exports. T-shirts and pullovers are the most important export
In 36 years from 1980 to 2018, the production and products in knitted clothing sector. Exports of
export of the industry shifted from low value added t-shirts and pullovers were US$ 2.93 billion and US$
commodities to high value added manufactured 1.62 billion respectively in 2016.
items and fashionable goods. Major strengths of “Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles, jackets, blazers,
Turkish textile and apparel industry are: dresses, skirts, divided skirts, trousers, etc.” and
•  ualified and educated human resources,
Q “Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles, jackets, blazers,
• Design capacity, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches, etc.”
• accumulation of know-how, are the most important export products in woven
• Investment in technology, clothing sector. In 2016 exports of “Women’s or girls’
• Dynamic and flexible production capacity, suits, ensembles, jackets, blazers, dresses, skirts,
• Advanced sub industry in clothing sector, divided skirts, trousers, etc.” and “Men’s or boys’
• Concern about quality, health and environment. suits, ensembles, jackets, blazers, trousers, bib and

32 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Country Profile

the Turkish Clothing


Top five export destinations for turkey apparel products government aims to provide
Manufacturer’s Association more assistance to its domestic

2685.044

2688.035
3000
(TGSD), recently said, producers by coming up with

2090.593
2500 “China’s ‘One Belt, One programs like the turquality

1924.292
Road’ project is a threat for program. It is specifically created

1691.210
1627.455
2000
the Turkish apparel industry. to make domestic producers
1500
Primarily, China carries become more competitive.

700.502
692.592
723.170

653.372
1000
its apparel industry to
Conclusion
500 Western China where cheap
labor is intense. Therefore, Today, Turkish textiles and clothing
0
Germany UK Spain France Netherlands
China will be threatening industry is the most outward-
0.11% -7.95% 3.92 -4.23% -6.73%
Turkey by its easier access oriented industry that can
to EU and the project will compete with any other countries
Figure 2: Top five markets for Turkish apparel
products (value in USD million). Value in the bottom be pressurizing this very in the international markets in
round shows change in percentage year on year. terms of high quality and wide
important competitive
brace overalls, breeches, etc.” advantage of Turkey.” range of products. Turkey has
were USD 2.27 billion and US$ 1.51 already increased its cotton
To maintain its competitive edge,
billion, respectively. production, which will put it on
local producers have to create
track to become less dependent
Turkish textile production factors more creative and innovative
on external sources of cotton.
designs that target high-income
Turkey has several advantages in At the same time, government
groups. As the sector is also
textile production as well as the of the country is very concern to
negatively affected by the decision of
supply of raw materials based on eliminate the remaining problems
the EU to enter free trade agreements
the following points: in the industry, therefore, in
with South Korea and India.
near future Turkey might be the
i) The county is a rich source of the
In response to the increasing strongest competitor for its major
raw materials that are used for the
competition, the Turkish rival countries.
production. Turkey ranks number
7 in global cotton production. Table 1: Turkey’s clothing exports by countries (USD million)
ii) In terms of logistics, the country
Countries 2014 2015 2016 Change (%)
has a strategic location as it is the
2015/2016
gateway to European markets.
iii) With its liberal trade policies Germany 3321.488 2685.044 2688.035 0.11%
equipped with the highly skilled United Kingdom 2354.640 2090.593 1924.292 -7.95%
labor force, the country is Spain 1588.538 1627.455 1691.210 3.92%
able to have a well-developed
France 930.611 723.170 692.592 -4.23%
industry that can produce
quality products. Netherlands 812.877 700.502 653.372 -6.73%
iv) The country has entered Poland 403.822 415.778 523.519 25.91%
customs union agreement with Italy 600.163 513.849 512.575 -0.25%
EU and free trade agreements Iraq 609.029 699.136 502.500 -28.13%
with other countries.
Denmark 488.460 390.849 409.342 4.73%
v) Turkey is also noted for giving
importance and priority to the Iran 50.303 107.022 338.707 216.48%
working conditions of their Ukraine 274.407 271.427 297.616 9.65%
labor force. USA 236.435 273.442 291.182 6.49%
vi) Turkey continues to invest in
Belgium 372.892 290.982 280.444 -3.62%
utilizing advanced technologies
to grow their industry. Saudi Arabia 243.341 241.024 266.701 10.65%
Israel 199.049 222.587 265.617 19.33%
Competitiveness of the textile industry
Bulgaria 75.618 58.743 248.052 322.27%
Although the Turkish textile
industry has been experiencing Sweden 267.339 199.108 215.609 8.29%
stable growth over the years, it is Algeria 136.130 173.571 179.258 3.28%
facing challenges, as the country is UAE 135.345 137.457 132.765 -3.41%
now required to compete with China.
Egypt 108.214 122.421 105.577 -13.76%
It is beginning to lose its advantage
Others 3048.050 2901.040 2.555.789 -11.90%
due to China’s low labor cost.
Total 16256.751 14845.200 14774.754 -0.47%
Hadi Karasu, Chairman of

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 33


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Everlight-ZDHC Seminar 2018 offers sustainable


solution for Bangladesh’s textile wet processing
industry
ZDHC seminar 2018’ explains how Everlight can help in total cost reduction for Bangladesh
textile industry

Staff Correspondent

Actually, we have to think about Everlight Chemical


the total solution. From purchasing Industrial Corporation
chemical to wastewater treatment, was founded in 1972.
we have to think about the Its revenue was $ 307
reduction of cost. We have to million in 2017. Everlight
think about every stage. If you has their market in 17
have to control the cost, you locations worldwide. “The
have to find the right chemical business we started from
recipe or the right dye range in colorant, right now we
the beginning. If you can choose have 5 business units, and
the correct chemical compared to these are Color Chemicals,
the conventional one, you can use Speciality Chemicals,
less dye, less wastewater, less CO2 Electronic Chemicals,
emissions. Then the wastewater Pharmaceutical Chemicals,
treatment process will be easier. and Toner. But the main
As a result, the total cost will business is the color
be lower than the conventional chemical,” said Amy Huang.
one,” Amy Huang, Head, Product
Around 5 % of their
Stewardship of Everlight, said
revenue goes for R&D to
with the Textile Today reporter
improve their product.
at ‘ZDHC seminar 2018’ on 4 July
They have 250 researchers
while explaining that how Everlight Figure 1: Amy Huang, Head, Product stewardship of
Everlight. who are engaged with the
can help in cost reduction for
research work. Everlight
Bangladesh textile industry.
they have been representing them was awarded several times, which
The seminar was arranged since 1993. Everlight has been firmly shows that Everlight is not only
by Evershine Enterprise in committed towards the goal of Zero focused on business profit but also
collaboration with the Everlight Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals. consider its social responsibility.
Chemical Industrial Corporation
Sales Manager of the Sales team, Amy Huang explained how they
(Taiwan) at Hotel Le Meridian,
David Lu, who is in-charge of overcome the challenges they face
in Dhaka, Bangladesh. ‘ZDHC
Bangladesh market since 2004, during the chemical manufacturing
Seminar 2018’ has covered
presented Everlight to the guests. process. She said, “We try to
current sustainability topics in the
He said, “Bangladesh Textile calculate the amount of chemical
context of Bangladesh’s textile
Business has become big at this we use in a reasonable way. We
wet processing industry with
moment. However, the textile introduced material flow cost
the aim to raise awareness and
business means dyes, chemicals, accounting(MFCA ) tool tohelp
inform end-users on Everlight’s
and auxiliaries, which destroy the us reduce costs and increase
firm commitment regarding the
environment, is not only affecting profits while achieving energy
implementation of sustainable
us but also the next generation. saving and carbon reduction,
chemistry and best practices in
Therefore, this is the perfect time reducing negative products, and
the textile and leather industries to
to think about the pollutions.” improving atomic utilization and
protect consumers, workers, and
competitiveness.We calculate the
the environment. “By using the better quality
atomic utilization of chemicals we
product, we can save our
Shazid Rahman, Director, use and chemicals coming out.
environment. As Everlight is the
Evershine Enterprise said that on When we design a new product,
first dyestuff company to join
behalf of Evershine, they are very we use ‘12 green chemistry
ZDHC as an associate member, they
proud to have Everlight as one of principles’ concept.”Everlight’s
are producing high quality and eco-
their partners. He also said that solution for the textile industry
friendly product,” he added.

34 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

“Everlight has the capability


to offer top quality of colorant
in the textile industry. We
promptly deliver the product
to our customers. We also offer
a reasonable price. We also
developed a lot of green product
such as Everzol® ED Series, a
strong chromo fore where smaller
quantities of dyes required than
conventional dyes. We also
developed digital textile printing
Figure 2: Amy Huang, Head, Product stewardship of Everlight. David Lu, Sales Manager,
for injecting ink. We also have
Everlight, Matiar Rahman. MD of Evershine, and other distinguished guests of Everlight
a fewer product without DMF were present in the meeting
solvent,” Amy Huang said these Black X-BW for nylon and wool. By compliance, are designed to
while describing their contribution using these dyes, one can reduce ensure the discharge of treated
to the textile Industry. the use of dyestuff usage up to wastewater does not adversely
Recently Everlight is trying to 41% and Black X-BW present two affect the environment and
make their product free from PCA times stronger strength than the surrounding communities.
content, which is mainly coming traditional one. The removal of Cr
The ZDHC Gateway – Wastewater
from the reactive black mixture. removal rate is also remarkable
Module is a global web-based
Almost all black color contain PCA for this product than the previous
platform that is designed to share
(para Chloroaniline), Everlight conventional one.
verified wastewater and sludge
has products to overcome these “The vision of ZDHC is widespread test data based on testing against
problems, such as Everzol Black implementation of sustainable the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines.
series (PCA content <150ppm), chemistry and best practices in the
Everzol® Black ECO series (PCA “It provides suppliers
textile, leather and footwear industries
content <50ppm), Everzol Black (manufacturing facilities) with an
to protect consumers, workers, and
PF series (PCA content <5ppm). easy way to disclose secured and
the environment,” she said.
verified wastewater and sludge
Highlighting their latest products Some products of Everlight in data to their clients (brands/
she said, “We have new product Color Chemicals retailers), reduce the number of
Everzol® PFED-G/ ED-R, ED-3R to unnecessary testing and instead
the market. Secondly, we have a • Everzol® Black series
focuses on improving the quality
new product Everacid Black XBW. • Everzol® CS series
of discharge,” said Amy Huang.
This new product has high bear up, • Evereco® PUR Adhesive
very little wastewater and the CO2 • Eversolar® DSSC “Everlight Chemical has become
emission is quite low compared to • Everacid Black X-BW a ZDHC associate member and
the previous conventional products • Everjet® RT &AT committed to ZDHC 2020 Joint
for nylon. We are working on the • Everzol®ED series Roadmap as we have recognized
leather also.” the urgent need to eliminate the
The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero
industrial releases of hazardous
David Lu said, “Everzol® CS is Programme takes a holistic
chemicals into the environment,”
the best solution for Critical approach to tackle the issue of
she said.
Color Shades that dyes with good hazardous chemicals in the global
performance and light-fastness. It is textile, leather and footwear value She also mentioned that in line
environmentally aware for achieving chain. Their goal is to eliminate with the content of the Joint
a better Carbon Footprint.” the use of priority hazardous Roadmap and according to
chemicals by focusing on the our approach in support of the
Amy Huang discussed the following areas: Precautionary principle, Everlight
developments, initiatives, Chemical fully acknowledges and
regulations, and activities of •M  anufacturing Restricted
understands the seriousness of the
ZDHC. She highlighted that how Substances List (MRSL) &
problem of hazardous chemicals
collective action can transform Conformity Guidance
and is committed to the goal
an industry. He said that Everlight • Wastewater Quality, Audit
of zero discharge of hazardous
wants to give ‘Green Solutions’ Protocol, Research
chemicals for all its products
for apparel and footwear. It also • Data and Disclosure
across all pathways of release
wants to reduce heavy metal item • Training
(discharges, emissions and losses)
from their chemicals. They have The ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines, in our supply chains (with a full
new black acid item Everacid which go beyond regulatory life-cycle perspective) by 2020.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 35


Te x t i l e W o r l d

Vietnam’s textile sector jumps to 5th


position in the world
Desk Report

Vietnamese textile sector has organized in Hanoi on June 27 by


become the second highest export the ECV International and VCOSA
earner and occupied the fifth where he said “Between 2018 and
position in the world, the Vietnam 2022, the export tax on certain
Cotton and Spinning Association products will be reduced to zero,
(VCOSA) said it. Vietnam exported creating new opportunities for
textile items worth more than $31 the country to promote economic
billion last year, representing an growth.”
annual rise of 10.23 percent. The Figure: Vietnam’s textile sector has
occupied the fifth position in the world. Competitive labor costs and
growth is expected to continue
preferential policies will continue
this year with an estimated the department of export and
to help Vietnam become one of
revenue of $33 billion. import under the ministry of
the ideal destinations for investors
industry and trade, attended at the
Tran ThanhHai, Deputy Head of in the sector, said a press release.
4th Vietnam Textile Summit 2018

Bangladesh will have to ratify 27 UN conventions


to get GSP+ after it graduates into DC
Desk Report
Bangladesh should maintain a
warm relationship with the EU so
that it can continue to enjoy the
zero-duty benefit under the GSP
plus upon graduation from the
least developed country (LDC)
bracket in 2027.
Dutch ambassador to Bangladesh
Leoni Cuelenaere advised it at the
farewell to outgoing of her that
was taken place at BGMEA’s office,
Dhaka on July 5. BGMEA President
Siddiqur Rahman bid the farewell. Figure: BGMEA President Siddiqur Rahman bid farewell to outgoing Dutch ambassador to
Bangladesh Leoni Cuelenaere at BGMEA’s office, Dhaka on July 5. (Photo Credit: The Daily Star)
Leoni Cuelenaere said, “It is clear
also on Bangladesh right now but conventions of the UN to be
that, once Bangladesh becomes
it is for a positive reason as some eligible for the continued GSP plus
a developing country, the EU will
of the world’s best factories are benefit to the EU.
levy a 12.5 percent duty on export.”
located in Bangladesh, she added.
BGMEA highlighted the farewell
She also said that Bangladesh
According to Cuelenaere, to Cuelenaere, recognizing her
should be proud that the country
Bangladesh supplies 20 percent of extraordinary advocacy in favor of
has some of the world’s best
the total requirement of garment locally made garment items during
garment factories. In fact, the
items to the EU in a year. the turbulent times for the sector.
country already has 73 green
factories certified by the US Green In the ceremony, some important Siddiqur Rahman highlighted in his
Building Council and 320 are waiting issues were discussed. The GSP recognition speech that the Dutch
to be certified by the American scheme is awarded to a country, ambassador’s contribution in the
organization. Of the top 10 green which is very much compliant in meetings of three secretaries and
factories, seven are in Bangladesh. business, production and in the five diplomats committee formed
supply chain of the exportable to strengthen the safety in the
After the Rana Plaza building
goods. Bangladesh will have to country’s garment sector.
collapse, the global focus was on
ratify 27, including four cores,
Bangladesh. The global focus is

36 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


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S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

9 organizations join ZDHC ‘Roadmap to Zero Program’


Desk Report

Nine organizations have joined Asia. Testex is a globally operating, Made in Italy excellence.
the Zero Discharge of Hazardous independent Swiss testing and
CIEL Textile is a world-class global
Chemicals (ZDHC)’s Roadmap to certification organization with
player in textile and garments
Zero Program, a coalition of over a focus on textile and leather
operations, spanning across
100 contributors, working together testing. Companies from the textile
Mauritius, Madagascar, India and
on the implementation of safer and footwear industry include
Bangladesh.
chemistry practices to protect Albini Group, CIEL Textile, Nahar
consumers, workers and the Group of Companies, Raymond Nahar Group of Companies is one
environment. UCO Denim, and Eurojersey. of the leading textile companies
in India having approximately
ZDHC works to eliminate the use The Albini Group is an Italian
800,000 spindles, weaving,
of priority hazardous chemicals in textile company, aimed to
processing, denim, knitting, and
the textile, leather, and footwear manufacture the most beautiful
garmenting capacities along with
production. The new contributors shirting fabrics, embracing the
a retail business.
joining as value chain affiliates culture of quality, innovation and
include solution providers like Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.
Eurofins, HermesHansecontrol is a formidable combination of
Group, and Testex. advanced manufacturing and
global market reach. Sensitive
Eurofins is the world leader
Fabrics by Euro jersey is a
in food, environmental and
reference point in the sector of
pharmaceutical product testing,
Italian-made warp knit fabrics
and one of the key emerging
for sportswear, ready-to-wear,
players in consumer product
swimwear and underwear markets.
testing, soft lines, and leather
including chemical management AQC (Association for Quality
and testing services. Assurance of Leather Bracelets
Manufacturers) is joining ZDHC as
As an international testing and
an associate. It is a Swiss-based
certification company, Hermes Figure: Recently nine organizations have international association of leather
Hansecontrol Group is present joined the Zero Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals (ZDHC)’s Roadmap to Zero bracelets manufacturers for the
in eight locations in Europe and Program. watch industry.

90% remediation of Alliance factories is complete


Desk Report

The Alliance for Bangladesh leadership and oversee safety


Worker Safety (“Alliance”) inspection and monitoring, worker
announced in a press release on training and the 247 Amader
3rd July that during the month Kotha helpline beginning in 2019.”
of June, 18 additional Alliance-
“The work of the Alliance and
affiliated factories completed all
its partners to overhaul factory
material components outlined
safety has made a significant
in their Corrective Action Plans
difference within the RMG
(CAPs), bringing the total to 364.
industry in Bangladesh,” said
Figure: Bangladesh RMG sector has become
“We commend the commitment these one of the safest places to work due to Kathleen Almand, Vice President
factories have made to prioritize strong investment under the remediation of the National Fire Protection
projects of Accord and Alliance.
safety for their workers, and we thank Association (NFPA).
them for setting a standard for others has been completed, informing
this the release said, “Laying the “My colleagues at NFPA and I are
to follow,” said Alliance Executive
groundwork for the Alliance’s optimistic about the future, and
Director Amb. Jim Moriarty.
planned transition to a Safety we look forward to seeing how
Across all Alliance factories, 90% Monitoring Organization (SMO) these gains will be built upon as
of all required factory remediation that will include Bangladesh the Alliance transitions its work.”

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Te x t i l e P e o p l e R e t a i l e r s To d a y

BSHRM gets new executive committee


Desk Report

Bangladesh Society for Human ‘We, BSHRM, are committed to


Resources Management (BSHRM), nationwide development thorough
an active platform for HR continual positive changes. Our
professionals, recently announced vision is to improve the lives and
new office bearers having 15 wellbeing of HR professionals
executive members. Mohammad and train and equip HR talents
Mashequr Rahman Khan, Managing to meet the global standard,’
Director of PTDCA, elected as Figure: Newly elected BSHRM executive said Mohammad Kamruzzaman,
a President and Abul Hashem committee for 2018-19. Director (HCM, Comp. & Admin
Mazumder, Head of HR, Mirpur 15 executive members were elected of Windy Group and Treasurer of
Ceramic & Khadim Ceramics Ltd. for 2018-19. Musharrof Hossain was BSHRM.
elected as a General Secretary. the president for 2017-18. ‘We need a human resource
Besides Shabbir Ali, Director
‘BSHRM is an International ministry as many developed
(HR) of City Group and Mohammad
platform. I hope the new and developing countries, such
Kamruzzaman, Director (HCM, Comp.
executive committee will work for as India, Europe, and America,
& Admin) of Windy Group elected as
human capital development and have their own human resource
a Vice President and Treasurer.
contribute the country’s economy,’ ministries to create and develop
On 6 July BSHRM arranged their said Mohammad Mashequr Rahman skilled manpower for the corporate
16th annual general meeting where Khan, President of BSHRM. sector,’ Kamruzzaman added.

Islamic fashion school teaches


modest fashion in Indonesia
Desk Report

Indonesia’s so-called first Islamic business practices.


fashion school is teaching students
The trend toward garments that
in the world’s largest Muslim-
meet religious requirements is
majority country the usual skills
becoming more visible among
of design, styling, and marketing.
the burgeoning middle class in
However, they are teaching many
Indonesia, where, for years, few
designs, which are not related to
Muslim women covered their
the Islamic faith that does not give
heads, or opted for traditional
permission to go outside a woman
Figure: Indonesia’s so-called first Islamic batik or Western clothing.
without proper cover maintaining fashion school is teaching students Islamic
Islamic rules. fashion. The Indonesian websites of leading
online retailers such as Lazada.
As demand grows for Islamic According to Deden Siswanto, they com and Zalora.com now have
apparel, featuring variations on also teach them about wearing pages dedicated to Islamic fashion.
traditional headscarves and long, clothes according to Islamic rules.
flowing dresses for women, while However, there are many conflicts The country hosted its first Muslim
men are targeted with robes or with Islamic dress code. Fashion Week in 2015 and the industry
shirts embroidered with religious ministry aims to make Indonesia a
Nearby sat a group of young “Muslim fashion hub” by 2020.
motifs, about 140 students have
women working at sketch boards
signed up. One of the students at the school,
and sewing stations in the school,
“We want our students to make which offers nine-month courses Runi Soemadipradja, said she
unique designs and become in fashion styling, marketing, and started wearing a headscarf in
leaders in modest fashion,” said basic styling. 2007 but found few options
Deden Siswanto, who founded the suitable for Muslims. She started
Both men and women, whether designing her own clothes.
Islamic Fashion Institute nearly
Muslim or non-Muslim, may join. They are overwhelmed by this
three years ago in Indonesia’s third
However, teachers must be Muslim, (demand). So far, she has released
largest city of Bandung.
to ensure familiarity with Islamic 10 collections.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 39


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Cotton 2040, new guide to help


brands source sustainable cotton
Desk Report

During the Better Cotton Initiative Anita Chester, head of and Centre for Sustainable Fashion
(BCI) 2018 Global Cotton Sustainable Raw Materials at London College of Fashion.
Conference, Cotton 2040 a new at C&A Foundation, said, Sustainability non-profit Forum
guide has been launched aimed “There is significant work to for the Future led the work, with
at helping brands and retailers to do to align and harmonize funding from the C&A Foundation.
radically increase their sourcing of the many sustainability- Anita Chester, head of Sustainable
sustainable cotton. focused activities across Raw Materials at C&A Foundation,
Cotton is the most widely- the apparel sector and to said, “There is significant work
used natural fiber in the fashion drive production of more to do to align and harmonize
industry but presents significant sustainable cotton from the many sustainability-focused
environmental and social around 15 percent to beyond activities across the apparel sector
challenges to the apparel sector. 30 percent from 2020. and to drive production of more
Although the fashion industry is sustainable cotton from around
improving its environmental and 15 percent to beyond 30 percent
impacts, and increasing demand
social performance, sustainable from 2020.
for more sustainable fibers is the
cotton currently only makes up
key to securing future supply. “Through Cotton 2040 and the
around 3% of the total global
The CottonUP guide addresses a CottonUP guide, key industry
cotton supply. This needs to
long-standing need in the industry players are making a united
increase in order to further
for clarity around cotton sourcing effort to pull brands and retailers
improve the sustainability of the
options by providing brands and towards more sustainable cotton
apparel sector. BCI conference
retailers with the resources to help and make it easier for them to
summarized.
them go further, faster. It can be a source across multiple standards,”
The digital ‘CottonUp guide to key enabler for systemic change in she added.
sourcing sustainable cotton’ the industry, and could be a blueprint Phil Townsend, the sustainable
supports brands on fast-tracking for other commodities in the future.” raw materials specialist at
their sourcing strategies across
The guide was developed by the M&S, expressed that today, any
multiple standards. The guide
Cotton 2040, coalition of leading company, no matter how large
highlights the business case
brands and retailers including M&S, or small, have the opportunity to
and main sourcing options for
Target and Aditya Birla Fashion convert all its products over to a
sustainable cotton, provides
Retail Ltd; industry standards sustainable footing and mainstream
guidance on creating a sourcing
Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton more sustainable cotton.
strategy and working with
made in Africa (CmiA), organic Over the coming months, Cotton
suppliers, and shares case studies
standards (represented by Textile 2040 partners will be reaching out
from companies that have already
Exchange), Fairtrade, industry to individual organizations and
navigated the complex challenges of
initiatives CottonConnect, IDH – the wider industry to encourage
sourcing more sustainable cotton.
the sustainable trade initiative, greater use of more sustainable
Sally Uren, CEO at Forum for the Cotton Australia, Proudly made cotton and provide support
Future, said, “The apparel sector in Africa and Organic Cotton through webinars and other
is under huge pressure to reduce Accelerator as well as MADE-BY knowledge sharing opportunities.
its social and environmental

40 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


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C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y

Lindex-WaterAid launched project


to improve RMG worker’s health
Desk Report

Lindex has been a partner with


WaterAid since 2014 and now
deepens the collaboration with
the new project that launched
at Mirpur, an area of Dhaka,
Bangladesh where many textile
workers produce clothes for
Lindex live.
On 30 June 2018, the project
titled “Addressing the WASH
crisis in low-income settlements
of garment workers in Mirpur”
has been launched officially at
CIRDAP Auditorium in Dhaka.
It was organized by Eco-Social
Development Organization Figure: Lindex-WaterAid launched a project to improve RMG-worker’s health in Mirpur, Dhaka
(ESDO) funded and supported
by WaterAid Bangladesh and Abul Hashim, MBBS, MPH, Adviser, Women and Children, our all effort
Lindex where Indu Bhuson Dev, ESDO. goes to create a better working
Divisional Deputy Director, Primary condition for the workers of our
The project intends to support
Education, Dhaka Division was the supplier factories, now we are
10000 garments workers in Mirpur
chief guest. aiming to see the improvement
slums with safe water, sanitation
In the Mirpur area, few people of their living conditions at home
and hygiene behavior change
have access to clean water and also.”
towards promoting environmental
decent toilets that leads to both health for 3 years (01 April 2018- Rashida Akter Jhorna, Councilor,
health issues and security risks 31, March 2021). The project Ward # 6, 7 and 8 DNCC said, “I
where women and girls are also focuses on women and am very happy to see that the
particularly affected. Through the adolescent girls’ empowerment company like Lindex extends
collaboration between Lindex and through leadership and small their helping hands to improve
WaterAid, the residents and school entrepreneurship development on the health and sanitation facilities
students in the area will get access sustainable WASH services. of the area where the workers of
to clean water and sanitation. The its supplier factories live- this is
“Thanks to Lindex and Water Aid
project also includes education in surely a great initiative. I promise
to lunch such a great project in
the schools regarding sanitation to provide all necessary support to
Mirpur Slum area. I believe, this
and menstrual hygiene, with make this project successful.”
will surely improve the health and
local partners. Women and girls
sanitation condition of the poor The collaboration between Lindex
will be especially involved in the
people of the slums and hope all and WaterAid is a three-year
project by being part of the newly
the related stakeholder will work project, scheduled to start April
launched entrepreneurial groups.
together to make the project 1, 2018. The project is financed
Kazy Md. Iqbal Hossain, South Asia successful.” Said Indu Bhuson Dev. with a surplus from Lindex sales
Sustainability Manager, LINDEX of shopping bags, in line with
Kazy Mohammad Iqbal Hossain
and Anwar Shikder, Country the initiative One Bag Habit. One
said, “Lindex is proud to be a part
Director in charge, WaterAid Bag Habit aims at reducing the
of this important project. We are
Bangladesh were present as consumption of shopping bags,
continuously working to improve
special guests. More than 100 increase the awareness of plastic
the living conditions of the
project stakeholders from the bags negative environmental
workers who produce garments
different corner were present impact and the surplus of the sales
for Lindex. As a fashion brand,
in this launching ceremony. The of bags is donated that drives
specialized in selling garments for
ceremony was presided by Dr. Md. sustainable development.

42 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Editorial

Prospects of branding
and marketing for textile
manufacturers
For so long, promotional activities were accumulated in buyers end, but it’s
the time, manufacturers should also participate in this march as they also
need recognition to the end users and buyers community to sustain in the
business strongly.

Rahbar Hossain

There is a spectrum of opinions

Brand
about branding and marketing.
Actually, producers and consumers
What is a
both ends are bound in a string
where branding and marketing
actions are bridged. However most
of the manufacturers still suspect
that branding and marketing is still
a cost center, not a business driver.
Almost all successful companies
have very good promotional story
and activities all over the world. BRAND BRAND BRAND
In textile and apparel industry,
STRATEGY POSITIONING IDENTITY
fashion retailers are conscious in
promotion though in producers
end the awareness is very poor.
Problem is industry owners are Promotional activities remember you. Also, they will
more production focused which were accumulated often refer you to friends and
tangibly gives them revenue. It’s in buyers end, family.
happening just because of they but it’s the time,
Strategic brand management
have not proper notion that how manufacturers should
also participate in The strategic brand management
could branding and promotion
this march as they process starts with a clear
give them revenue, open up new
also need recognition understanding of what the brand
opportunity and reduce market
to the end users and is to represent and how it should
risks. Consumers’ or customers’
buyers community to be positioned with respect to
loyalty should be on top of the
sustain in the business competitors. Actually, competitive
priority chart, which is the ultimate
strongly. brand positioning is all about
revenue house.
creating brand superiority in the
Why and what is branding and minds of consumers.
marketing? push, it is pull and more strategic
Fast fashion trend and open
Innumerable people and tool. In fact, branding makes
business practice make the
organizations are selling same marketing easier and acceptable
textile business chain ticklish.
product like you, why a consumer to the consumer. People in this
Manufacturer and buyer both are
would buy your product? The era are brand-aware and very
trying to dominate each other in
marketing may convince an concerned about buying any kind
every aspect. Both end busy to cut
individual to buy a particular of products. They want quality
the profit from one other in every
product but branding determines products that they can trust. So,
possible way. In fact, both are
if he/she will become a loyal if your company delivers great
working to satisfy the end users
customer or not. Marketing is a products and services and has a
which are the real firewood of
push tactic but branding is not great brand identity, people will
business. For so long, promotional

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 45


Find your unique positioning
An initiative of Textile Today
and stand head-high...
The Team

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir


Head of Business Development

Rakibul Islam
Soma Akter
Nepal Nath
Naznin Wahed
Business Development ‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding
Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and
explore positives and significant stories from sites of the
Akhi Akter
industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video
SN Abdullah
Sub Editor
contents will be developed to highlight & promote best
practices; product and process development stories; social and
environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel
Rahbar Hossain manufacturing companies.
Editorial Coordinator

Sanjoy Kumar Saha


Engagement & Communication
Major Factory Tales Services are
Nizam Uddin Shipan
Head of Design and Branding Brand Strategy Making Brand Manual Making
(Identity & Positioning) (Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand
Materials and Websites)

Best Practice Story Building Photography & Videography


Moshfikur Rahman (Marketing/Branding Story) (Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Video & Graphic Editing

Brand Communication- PR Services

Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design

Maruf Ahmed
Amenities of Factory Tales
Cinematographer  Identical position in the industry
 Buyer and consumer loyalty
 Vantage in price negotiation
Sajedul Islam
 Employer Branding
Asst. Manager, Web & IT
 New business possibility
 Robust & sustainable business
Riasad Rion  Award on best practice
Executive, Web & IT

Md. Ariful Islam


Md. Masudur Rahman
Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions

www.factorytalesbd.com 25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748
Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com
Editorial

Identify and Plan and Impliment


Establish Brand Brand Marketing
Positioning Programs

Mental maps Mixing and matching of


brand elements
Competitive frame of reference
Integrating brand
Core brand associations marketing activities
Points-of-parity and difference Leveraging secondary
associations

Measure and Grow and


Interpret Brand Sustain Brand
Performance Equity

Brand value chain Brand product matrix

Brand audits Brand portfolios and hierarchies


Brand tracking Brand expansion strategies
Brand equity management system Brand reinforcement and revitalization

Figure 1: Strategic brand management process.

activities were accumulated in marketing and branding activities reinforcement. The great return
buyers end, but it’s the time, can certainly be a cost center, but of those promotional activities is
manufacturers should also well-researched and well-executed customer loyalty what actually any
participate in this march as they marketing is an investment that organization seek.
also need recognition to the end pays for itself in sales and brand
users and buyers community to
sustain in the business strongly.
Understanding target customers Mo Individuals attraction
re
and branding s us
ls
sel
tai
na
ble e
eas
Every business builds targeting bu
ncr
sin Strong position in
specific customers, it could be es
s industrial community I
a group of people or a country
whatever. Before starting business
activities, it is important to
More buyer
understand the target customer Employee
attraction
to buy
branding products
needs and prospects, identify
what should be the branding Grab the
target market
strategy and how to approach the End users End users
customers. Think of branding as loyalty loyalty
the expression of who you are as
a company or organization and
what you offer. Clarify who you are
and why you stand for to people.
Once you have created a brand, be
consistent in every aspect that you
have already offered especially in
quality and service. 
How promotional activities helps
Figure 2: Benefits of promotional activities for a textile industry.
in growth of an industry
Poorly researched and executed

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 47


Market Analysis

Market diversification for


further RMG export growth
To reduce higher dependency on the traditional market and seize new export
markets, government and private sector need for market diversification
Textile Today Research

In Fiscal Year (FY) 2017-2018,


export of readymade garments
(RMG) products registered an 8.76
percent growth reaching to $30.61
billion. Exports to non-traditional
markets have seen a nearly 10%
rise to $4.67 billion which is more
than 15% of total RMG export.
With the current product mix of
Bangladesh RMG industry, when
major export markets are reaching
to almost saturation point,
growing in non-traditional market
diversification has become even
more important.
To achieve 50 billion USD yearly
apparel export by June 2021,
Bangladesh has to increase its
RMG export from $30.61 billion Figure 1: Bangladesh needs to diversify its markets for further RMG export growth.
USD to 50 billion USD in three
due to the economic slowdown the non-traditional market than the
years, which is a growth of more
and Bangladesh’s lack of product traditional market of developing
than 60%. To achieve this target
diversity. countries. Therefore, there is
Bangladesh needs to get about
17% year on year average growth, Recently, the resurgence of a sort no reason not to search the new
according to the Textile Today of protectionist attitude among market and already Bangladesh
June editorial. To achieve this a number of major importing has made some progress in finding
growth, the sector needs to pay countries has also emerged as an a few markets for its products
attention to the regular market issue of great anxiety. We all know beyond the traditional ones.
and non-traditional market equally that Bangladesh does not get the The trend of RMG export to non-
even though the contribution of United States’ generalized system traditional markets
the non-traditional market in the of preference (GSP) though Accept key export destinations
export basket is still very less. many rival countries are enjoying such as the European Union, the
this benefit. On the other hand, United States, and Canada, other
Bangladesh’s apparel exports
EU often threatens to suspend countries are defined as non-
mainly depend on the European
trade preferences. For substantial traditional markets. Non-traditional
Union (EU), the United States,
volume growth, it would be logical export markets include India,
and Canada, as they are the main
to look for economies with sizable China, Russia, Japan, South Africa,
importers of apparel product from
markets. Turkey, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, South
the country. The diversification
of new export destinations is On the other hand, the demand of Korea, Malaysia, Australia, New
inevitable due to the entry of apparel products, one of the most Zealand and any other countries
new competitors in traditional important basic needs of human for the Bangladeshi garment
markets where Bangladesh being, is increasing rapidly due sector. These markets are being
has been enjoying an edge to many reasons, including fast defined as the non-traditional
over others for many years. On fashion trends, in developed and market by the Bangladesh
the contrary market growth in developing countries. Meanwhile, government. The government has
traditionally is being restricted market growth is much higher in been giving some advantages or

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


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Market Analysis

incentives to the exporters to the We mentioned earlier that initiative to explore the new export
non-traditional market. garment exports to non-traditional market, which acts as a catalyst.
RMG export to the non-traditional markets have seen a nearly 10% Double-digit exports growth in
markets is increasing significantly. rise to $4.67 billion in the last fiscal non-traditional markets is a good
Among the non-traditional year. sign for Bangladesh as it will
markets, Japan and India have As per the latest data of the pave the way to reduce higher
contributed the highest to total EPB, Out of $1.13 billion export dependency on traditional market
exports earnings. earnings from Japan in FY18, and help the country to diversify
$846.73 million or 74.8% came export destination, Exporter
Table 1: Bangladesh RMG export
from the RMG sector. And apparel Association of Bangladesh
to Nontraditional market in FY
exports to Japan has seen a 13.73% president Abdus salam Murshedy
2017-18
rise compared to previous year said to Textile Today.
Country RMG Exports in earnings of $744.48 million. This is because of the government
$ Million
In fiscal 2017-18, Bangladesh’s RMG and the private sector initiative,
Australia 634.01 exports to India stood at $279.19 taken to explore a new
Brazil 158.38 million, up by 115% compared to opportunity, said Salam, also a
Chile 78.95 $129.81 million in the FY17. Former President of Bangladesh
Of the total amount exported to Garment Manufacturers and
China 391.64
India, Knitwear products earned Exporters Association.
India 278.67
$71.05 million, which is 89.75% “Sharp rise in Japan and Indian
Japan 846.73
higher than the $37.44 in the same market is opening a new
Korea 191.97 period a year ago. Woven products opportunity for Bangladeshi
Mexico 148.34 earned $207.62 million, up by manufacturers in the Asian region,”
Russia 427.92 124.79%, compared to $92.35 he added.
million a year ago. On the other hand, safety
South Africa 73.26
Why non-traditional markets improvement in apparel industry
Turkey 260.16
performed well has also attracted more customers
Others 1,180.44
In reducing higher dependency on to source goods from here, he
Countries
the traditional market, government opined.
Grand Total 4670.47
and private sector have taken “The Bangladesh government

Figure 2: Bangladesh’s RMG exports to non-traditional markets in FY18. Source: EPB

50 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Market Analysis

is determined to tap the fullest chain structure of the market. An earlier report of Textile
opportunity in the non-traditional Bangladesh needs to position itself Today told that proper product
export market. The sharp rise in rightly in this market. development and integrated
apparel exports growth in the marketing & sourcing plan will
While product quality and verity of
non-traditional market is the be keys to grab these markets.
products were also an important
reflection of efforts undertaken by As our manufacturing base here
factor in gaining more market
the government to explore new has developed for quantity based
share in the non-traditional markets
destinations for RMG products,” orders, it may require creating
and now Bangladeshi entrepreneurs
Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed some brands for the wholes sale
were making the investment to
said to Textile Today. market in the non-traditional market
upgrade the quality of products.
Currently, the government is to create requirements of a sum of a
How to grab more market share good volume of garments.
providing a 3% cash incentive
against export proceeds for As of now, the potential of non- Bangladeshi manufacturers
garment exporters in the non- traditional markets is huge and need to invest in marketing and
traditional market. remains untapped. This is because promotion as well. A part of the
of higher taxes, which eat up manufacturing base in Bangladesh
Our exporters are more
the competition, and non-tariff can target these markets and
concentrating on the traditional
barriers in some of the potential reshape them. As a whole quick
markets and they do not want to
markets such as India. response system, capability of
spend time and money exploring
the market. I think apparel makers “In taping the opportunity of frequent style changes, cutting
have to change the mindset non-traditional exports markets, room automation, use of software
and give efforts to explore new Bangladesh government has to for designing and ERP will increase
markets as the government is come up with new steps to explore the competitiveness of enterprises
providing all-out support to this potential exports items,” Former here to grab these potential markets.
end, he added. Advisor to caretaker government Small segregated mode of
AB Mirza Azizul Islam said. production can work in place of
Challenges in new markets
“We also have to identify the composite vertical practice here
Non-tariff barriers and products only when good integration can
products for the Asian market,
variation is a challenge in the be done by better communication
as the dress pattern of this region
way of taking more market share within the industry. A good blend
is different from the European
in the non-traditional export of sourcing partner and production
countries as well as in the American
destinations. Trade analyst and partner will be needed to grab a
region,” said the economist.
the manufacturer urged the potential part of the markets like
government to remove non- In grabbing more from the
Dubai, Malaysia, India, and South
tariff barriers, especially with pie in non-traditional markets,
Korea etc. Similar approach can
India to increase export to the Bangladesh has to concentrate on
be useful for other non-traditional
country. India could be a big market products development for those
countries as well.
for Bangladesh due to its largest markets, he added with saying
population and proximity, they opined. “The government should move In fine, both the government and
for a free trade agreement and the RMG leaders should come up
Nontraditional market’s sourcing with proper strategy and footstep
bilateral trade relations.”
network or stream is different to diversify export markets.
than the traditional markets. An
editorial of Textile Today May 2012
discussed the ways of approaching
such markets. The report said,
there are significant differences
in Product design, size pattern,
quality requirements, material
content, and fashion trend to
sourcing stream. The report
suggested that business pattern
to the manufacturing process and
steps it would have different way
for these markets. The market
is mostly covered by Indian and
Chinese products. Bangladeshi
manufacturers need to adapt
itself with the sourcing and value

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 51


Call : +8801775999837
S p i n n i n g To d a y

Maksons Spinning’s example of


ensuring high-quality yarn using
compact spinning technology
State-of-the-art compact ring spinning technology can ensure higher tenacity and elongation at break, lower
mass irregularity measured on short segments, and a significantly smaller number of faults such as thin &
thick places and neps, as well as a higher degree of elasticity, and a considerably lower hairiness.

Textile Today Industry Research Team

Spinning is the first value-adding


a process to make a quality
garment. Knitters and weavers
solely depend on spinners to
produce quality fabrics, which
quality frequently varies with the
yarn quality. Therefore, it is a great
challenge for spinners to deliver best
quality yarn to fabric producers.
MAKSONS Spinning Mills Limited
brought state-of-the-art compact
ring spinning technology to
meet the customers’ quality
requirements in 2016. They
Figure 2: MSML is equipped with updated machinery.
have installed 45168 spindles
EliTeSUESSEN apron suction spinning system over the non- spinning system, 5-7% less twist
compact ring-spinning machines compact spinning system- inserted, thus decreasing the
as a technological advancement fabric spirality and shrinkage at
footprint.  Higher Yarn strength.
the weaver’s end. Less hairiness
 Less Hairiness.
Md. Humayoun Kabir, GM and of yarn means less enzyme
Project Head of MSML said, “To  More yarn evenness. use during dyeing, by compact
improve yarn quality, we took into  Less twist needed etc. spinning process MSML decreased
account the issues that our potential about 20%-25% yarn hairiness.
customers claimed and brought this Successively they have reached
above benefits and their “Both we and our customers
technology as a solution.” are satisfied with this compact
production is also increased by
Advantages of the compact about 10-12%. In this compact system as they are getting quality
yarns and our sales is also getting
boosted,” Md. Mostafizur Rahman,
Sr. AGM of Quality Control said.
An article published in Textile
Today in January 2011 showed
how compact spinning systems
can make sure higher tenacity
and elongation at break, lower
mass irregularity measured on
short segments, and a significantly
smaller number of faults such
as thin & thick places and neps,
as well as a higher degree of
elasticity, and a considerably lower
hairiness.
It is getting difficult for the yarn
Figure 1: Imposing working floor at MAKSONS Spinning Mills Ltd. producers to sustain in the market

52 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


S p i n n i n g To d a y Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

because customers demand is


Table 1: Improvements in quality parameters after using compact
a high-quality product with low
spinning systems compared to conventional ring spinning systems.
price. At the same time, gas price
and labor cost are increasing, Parameters Compact Non-compact
though the yarn price is remaining Count 30KH-C 30KH
the same. So, spinners must have U% 10.90 11.1
to adopt this compact spinning
CVm% 14.00 14.4
and others modern technology
Thin -50% 0.5 1
to sustain, also should focus
on product development and Thick +50% 90 96
diversification such as Inject yarn, Neps +200% 170 178
SIRO yarn, Lycra, Nappy yarn and IPI 260.5 275
Amsler Slub etc.
H 4.5 5.8

BRÜCKNER launches new production


facility in Tittmoning, Bavaria
Desk Report

On 23 June 2018, the new


production facility of BRÜCKNER,
the world market leader in dry
finishing machines for textiles and
technical textiles, was officially
opened in Tittmoning, Bavaria, a
press release said.
Representatives from politics, the
church, banks, and industry were
present with approx. 800 other
guests when Regina Brückner
inaugurated the new, generously
dimensioned production plant
together with Dr. Peter Ramsauer,
Figure: BRÜCKNER new production site.
former Minister of Transport.
machines, they are in a position The former German Minister Dr.
Regina Brückner in her speech said
to manufacture and supply even Peter Ramsauer emphasized in
that increased incoming orders
larger machines as before, and his speech the importance of
and ever-increasing demands on
BRÜCKNER will also be able to the manufacturing industry in
machine sizes and delivery dates
increase their delivery volume Germany and expressed his joy
were the reason for planning a new
and significantly shorten delivery that BRÜCKNER is so clearly
plant in 2014. With the new plant
times, said the release. committed to the location
with 25,000 m² of production
Germany and does not transfer
space and a spacious office wing, In her speech, she explained the
jobs abroad. He congratulated
they will continue to meet the high many advantages of the new
BRÜCKNER on the successful
expectations of our customers plant and presented details of the
move to the new plant and
in the future. The possibility of highly automated and efficiently
emphasized the outstanding
producing components with a organized production: the new
importance of such tradition-
height of up to 12 m and a working modern CNC machine tools, the
conscious family companies
width of up to 8.80 m offer them additional welding robots and the
as BRÜCKNER for the German
great potential for the future. new highlight of the plant: the
industry and the location of
highly automated powder coating
With a large number of new, Bavaria in particular.
and wet coating system.
highly automated processing

54 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Exclusive Interview

Textile and apparel (T&A)


industry is the biggest
manufacturing industry in
Bangladesh, which is playing
a major role to convert the
country into middle income
from lower-middle one.

Bangladesh RMG
Bangladesh apparel industry
is the second largest exporter
of the world and more than

sector should go
82 percent of national export
foreign currency comes from
this sector. With continuous

for price fixing


challenges, obstacles, and
storms popping up every now
and then, the industry always

policy…
came on top and overcame
these very successfully.
With a titanic 4.2 million
people, including We can conclude that we have the most safest and
entrepreneurs, pioneers and luxurious RMG zone in the world. Since America does
dedicated persons who are
working relentlessly to uplift not or will not give GSP, so that we should find alternate
this industry strongly in many sources to bag benefits out of this transformation.
cases now could present it as
a role model to the world. Ashikur Rahman Tuhin
Ashikur Rahman Tuhin, Managing Director, Mayc`s Garments Ltd. and Director, BGMEA
Managing Director of Mayc`s
Garments Ltd and a Director Recently Ashikur Rahman Tuhin Textile Today: What type of
of BGMEA (also Director of shared his experience with Textile transformation of the industry
SEIP) is one of the successful Today on various issues including do you see as a successful
pioneer, who battled with industry’s future, transformation, businessman?
challenges to fortify country’s the necessity of branding, Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: In the
RMG business. He has a vast strategies, challenges etc. Here last 10 years, our RMG sector has
knowledge of this industry. is a glimpse of the discussion for changed significantly. We have
Textile Today readers. now entered into the luxurious

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 55


Exclusive Interview

and safety stage from the normal and boost the export growth, government. For example, before
stage. Luxurious is because of owners must focus on new markets the Eid festival, we sat with
the world’s highest graded green and emerging markets such as the government about Dhaka-
factories are now in Bangladesh. China and Japan. More products Chittagong traffic issue to avoid
Moreover, lots of other factories up-gradation is a must for a better continuous pressure on the
are in the pipeline and the green price. Last year we showed our highway and keep the exporting
factories have been developed own items in Paris fair. Individuals safe as this highway is the lifeline
so much that Bangladesh has the from the industry, BGMEA board, to reach the seaport. Eid going
most number of green factories and others attended. people and export, both matters
in the world. That is why we can From our side, we organize need to run simultaneously.
tell it a luxurious transformation. Apparel Summit, Denim Show Textile Today: What type of
In addition, the reason for telling etc every year in Dhaka and challenges the industry is facing
it a safety transformation is, after
now?
Rana Plaza collapse, training
held through Accord-Alliance, Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: This
infrastructures have been industry faced huge challenges
If the government
reformed in a sustainable and eco- and are still facing as I speak.
increases the
friendly way. Those who are given But we’ve developed beyond our
cost of gas for
this goodwill certificates, they imagination. We started exporting
importing of LNG,
have said about this significant with $12,000 in the decade of the
then the product
change. So, we can conclude eighties. Today we are 32 billion
manufacturing cost
that we have the most safest and dollars industry. There are many
will be increased.
luxurious RMG zone in the world. differences between now and then.
Buyers will not
Now the work and workspace have
Another big change is the want to give us
been improved. Once upon a time,
product wise transformation. this increased
there was no uninterrupted power
Generally, everyone knows that value. We book
supply, now it has been reduced
Bangladesh manufactures basic season-wise order
considerably. The government has
items. However, this mindset was 6 months prior. If
started importing LNG to reduce
in everyone, which is gradually any policy changes
gas crisis.
changing. We are going now to for any reason,
make down-padding high product even if material The price reduction is a big
range. We are now producing a cost increases after challenge. Now the market is
high valued jacket, world’s best the booking, we open, the buyer can buy product
lingerie items, full suit known as will not get the from anywhere. The challenge
Italian suit, denim, jeans etc. consideration from is to increase the price from
the buyer. the buyer. For example, if at the
Textile Today: There are many
halftime of dyeing production
green, compliance factories
dyeing gas pressure is decreased
in Bangladesh now. Why are
Chittagong. The world’s entire or closed, the shade variation may
branding strategies needed to
textile community comes here come. This will damage products.
express ourselves to the world?
and observes our best practices. Buyer will not bear this. If the
Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: As a government increases the cost of
BGMEA member, I think branding Textile Today: As a Director of gas for importing of LNG, then the
Bangladesh is needed at this BGMEA, what key role do you product manufacturing cost will
moment. Since BGMEA new play? be increased. Buyers will not want
board has come to power, we are Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: Each to give us this increased value. We
continuously working on this issue of our directors has a specific book season-wise order 6 months
and over the last two years, we zone of responsibility. We all prior. If any policy changes for
are attending regular international work together as a team. I am any reason, even if material cost
textile fairs than before. We working in RMG and Textile increases after the booking, we will
recently attended a fair in Russia. Industry Skills Council (RTISC) not get the consideration from the
As we think Russia could be the and Skills for Employment buyer. In this case, we have to offer
most perspective and alternative Investment Program (SEIP) the price to the buyer by solving
market. under the finance ministry as a our own problems.
Since America does not or will not Director to improve skill in all Again, if we remain in the hard-line
give GSP, so that we should find level management. Moreover, about negotiation, then foreign
alternate sources as entrepreneurs as a team, we also do the buyers will move elsewhere
or manufacturers. To remain safe work of backward linkage due to the open market. Then
and we are working with the

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Exclusive Interview

it will become difficult. I hope The price reduction is in Mirpur, Dhaka and another
that we start working on price green factory will be established
a big challenge. Now
sourcing and policy fixing in Hemayetpur, which is in
the market is open, the
roughly. In this case, there will full compliance with washing,
buyer can buy product
be a price policy structure for 5 garments etc sections. We are
years by considering all aspects.
from anywhere. The producing sportswear jersey
Accordingly, the product price will challenge is to increase along with knitting and proudly
be determined. Shortage of skilled the price from the we have made Bangladesh Cricket
manpower is another shortfall in our buyer. For example, if at Team’s jersey in the last cricket
industry. Skilled people are not available the halftime of dyeing world cup. According to the
at the level industry has grown. production dyeing gas buyer recommendations, we are
Textile Today: How much work pressure is decreased providing entire facilities to the
is being done by BGMEA about or closed, the shade staffs and workers. In every week,
raising the price? variation may come. This we are providing training. High
officials are sent to abroad to train
Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: As I will damage products.
up. To develop the R&D section,
said, buyers want to buy high- Buyer will not bear this.
we spend a big amount of money.
quality products from the good For sustainability, we use power
environment at low prices. saving lights and machinery,
However, the product cannot be rainwater harvesting. We need an
manufactured at a lower price needed. Then we will get the good
innovative and efficient approach
all the time. Many times the quality product. The government
to garment sourcing to meet the
price of raw material fluctuates has decided to bring scattered
apparel industry target of cost,
in the world market. We cannot factories to one place and is
quality, and lead-time.
manufacture a product in loss, building a lot of EPZ.
also we have to be careful about Textile Today: What is your
Hopefully, the problem will be
buyers moving elsewhere too. suggestion for upcoming new
solved very much if these factories
entrepreneurs?
Lead-time is one of the main facts will be shifted to EPZ fully. This
also. European buyers buy the industry can give potential profit Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: The
same product from Bangladesh to the country so quickly whereas Textile industry is perfectly
and Turkey; they can get less the others can’t. RMG is no longer expertise oriented. With full
lead-time from Turkey obviously a private organization now, it is our knowledge, understanding, and
due to the geographical reasons. national asset. We all need to work seeing, one should come here.
So that we have to work not only together to maintain this wealth. This industry is not for everyone.
to increase the product value, RMG lovers from the bottom of
Textile Today: Bangladesh is
besides we have to be careful, as the the heart should engage here
moving from LDC to DC. Already
competitiveness does not lose. We so that they can upgrade this
an announcement has come from
are trying to make an effective policy. industry well. Instead of small, big
the United Nations about this
industries should be established.
Textile Today: Now what are the issue. What is the effect of the
Building a small industry era has
opportunities of the industry? RMG sector in this case?
long been crossed. Because we
Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: Simply Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: This is the are at such phase now where if we
countless. We’ve lots of best part of Bangladesh, a matter cannot build a factory exclusively,
opportunities in this industry. I of pride and it is possible only due it would be difficult to sustain the
am very optimistic about this to country’s leading RMG sector’s business.
matter. We have now become contribution. There is nothing to
Now, it is tough to handle
more mature, the industry’s age is fear in it. We will not stay at the
the business with 3/4 lines of
almost 38-40 years old. Vietnam, LDC level for the rest of our life.
garments. Workers no longer
Cambodia, Ethiopia and other Changes will come with time, so
want to work at 40 degrees
countries need to spend more time we have to move forward. The
temperature. If we provide a
to reach this stage. Therefore, the main task of our termination is
good environment, workers will
opportunity is here. However, the to work for GSP+ instead of GSP.
be able to give us good quality
main thing we need to support Already we have started working
production. Youth should have
backup opportunities. In addition on it. I hope the RMG sector will be
a fixed goal where they can
to, the government has to develop stable in the future.
unroll themselves. They have to
a good transportation system Textile Today: Tell us about your be dynamic, motivated, explorer,
along with the good environment. factory. unique thinker person.
To manufacture a high-end
Ashikur Rahman Tuhin: I have
product, skilled workers are
two factories, one is located

58 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


F a c t o r y Ta l e s -Te x t i l e I c o n


Textile is a huge
revenue generating
sector where often
many important issues
are ignored. However,

Fashion trade is being the government and


owners are aware

diverted to online
now about workers,
environment, fire,

following consumers’
and building safety
etc., Babylon group
is such an industry

purchasing behavior…. where these good


practices are highly
present. Babylon Group
Mohammad Hasan started their journey
Executive Director of Babylon Group in 1986 with a vision
Recently Textile Today Industry Our vision is to give maximum to excel in businesses
Research Team has met quality products to the customer by upholding ethical
Mohammad Hasan, Executive with the optimal price range. Our values, pursuing the
Director of Babylon Group. And quality team works independently policy of continual
many industry insights came out so that they can take the action
from the conversation between improvements on
plan and decision properly and products, services, the
the team and Mohammad Hasan,
most illuminating parts are effectively. welfare of their people,
revealed here for the readers. Textile Today: Zero Discharge of being very responsible
Textile Today: What is the Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) in regards to polluting
specialty of Babylon Group which initiative aspires to make sure zero the environment by
distinguished it from others? discharge to hazardous chemicals adopting improved and
by 2020. Why do you think it is
Mohammad Hasan: Babylon latest manufacturing
important?
Group is all along quality methods. They have 20
conscious and the message is Mohammad Hasan: Keeping in sister concern industries
drilled very clearly from top to mind the environmental issues, with huge production
bottom. I’m proud to say that this we recently doubled our ETP capacity.
is our one of the main strengths. capacity from 100m^3 to 200m^3

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 59


F a c t o r y Ta l e s -Te x t i l e I c o n

per hour. I think it’s a remarkable In the recent past years, the taste of consumers, though the
footprint that goes align to ZDHC we faced utility problems fast fashion concept is making this
goals for 2020. This is important acutely, though, now the business more acceptable to the
because if anyone wants to take electricity availability consumers as we also have to run
environmental clearance from is better than before. with the new design and fashion.
top brands they have to meet Recently government is Fashion trade is being diverted
the ZDHC requirements within taking the initiative to to online following consumers’
around 2020. So, we are working import LNG gas, which is purchasing behavior.
on aiming that target. We have expensive, on the other
Textile Today: Bangladesh industry
top branded dyeing machineries hand, workers basic
is in deep utility problem but
which are very water efficient and salary is going to increase
many more economic zones are
productive. We also try to use less about to double or more.
being established and foreign
hazardous chemicals that requires Considering all these
investors are coming here. What is
less effort to treat. Environment adverse situations I don’t
your opinion about this?
and mass people should not be think new investors will
over looked, responsible people feel safe. The government Mohammad Hasan: It’s good
and government should take should handle this that Bangladesh is drawing many
proper initiatives to save our earth situation very carefully FDI but it’s also alarming for us.
and business should be ethical. as this textile business is Because we are just expanding our
Again, buyers also should be strict hope of millions of people business but not considering many
about environmental issues. in Bangladesh. vital issues like the environment,
workers living standard, utility
Textile Today: Babylon Group
availability etc. In the recent past
has 4R (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle are more focusing on this project years, we faced utility problems
& Recover) policy for waste to make this planet waste free. acutely, though, now the electricity
management, could you please
Textile Today: Babylon Group is availability is better than before.
share us about the project?
already in fashion retail business Recently the government is taking
Mohammad Hasan: Currently we with the popular brand “TRENDZ”, the initiative to import LNG gas,
are only recycling polythene under how do you see the prospects of which is expensive, on the other
this project. We recycle the used this business in Bangladesh? hand, workers basic salary is
polythene and produce new usable going to increase about to double
Mohammad Hasan: Firstly, one
products, though, we do not use or more. Considering all these
should come in this business
these for garments packaging adverse situations I don’t think
whatever the profit is because it
as it may not be hygienic. These new investors will feel safe. The
always keeps you one step ahead
polythenes are mainly used for government should handle this
of others. We had that vision and
the in-house temporary purpose. situation very carefully as this
that is why from 2004 we started
Babylon Group also had a paper textile business is hope of millions
“TRENDZ”, which is now a leading
mill where we usually recycled the of people in Bangladesh.
fashion brand of Bangladesh. This
used papers for further use. We
business concept is changing with

Germany and Uzbekistan strengthen cooperation in textiles


Desk Report
Several agreements have been
signed between Uzbekistan and news agency report.
Germany that will expand their Currently, Hohenstein with
bilateral cooperation and will help Uzbekistan textile industry
boost their exports of finished textile association is working to create
Figure: Uzbekistan and Germany strengthen
products to the European market. textile trade relations. scientific laboratories in Uzbekistan.
The agreements were signed at agreement of $4 million in Memorandum of cooperation and
a meeting with the Minister of investments, three framework its implementation roadmap were
Foreign Affairs of the Republic of agreements and six export contracts signed between the association
Uzbekistan, Abdulaziz Kamilov, amounted to a total of $6.5 million. and Hohenstein Institute.
and the Ambassador Extraordinary Both sides also discussed issues of During the negotiations, issues of
and Plenipotentiary of the Federal increasing export of finished textile developing a program of technical
Republic of Germany, Gunter Overfeld, products to the European market assistance and the transfer of
at the offices of the Uzbekistan Textile through certification collaborating knowledge in the field of textile
Industry Association. with European scientific research production, design, dyeing,
Both countries came to an institutes, according to an Uzbek finishing were discussed.

60 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Unveiling industry best practices Fabric to denim laundry
July 2018

Unveiling industry best practices


Fabric to denim laundry
If Bangladesh could ‘Denim Expert Ltd.’ Agami
fix some policy, it can becomes the first Washing Ltd
be the main player in SAC member focuses on
fabric production and among apparel innovation in
processing in the makers from product
world... Bangladesh development

Make Blue
Think Green
Make Blue
Think Green

Plant Area - 150 Acres


Technology - Modern High Tech Machineries
Manufacturing Facility - 1.4 Million Sqft
Water Saving - 20%
Fabric Production Capacity - 40 Million Yards/Year
Energy Saving - 18%
Capacity In Expansion - 40 Million Yards (Within 2019)
ETP Capacity - 6000 M3/Day
Certification - LEED Platinum (In Process)

Manufacturing Plant: Corporate Office:


Horitola, Madhabpur, Habiganj Bangladesh. Confidence Center (9th Floor), Kha-9,
www.pioneer-denim.com Progati Sharani, Shahjadpur, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212
Tel: +88 02 55048201
E-mail: info@pioneer-denim.com
Manufacturing with Pride

‘Denim Expert Ltd.’ becomes the


first SAC member among apparel
makers from Bangladesh
Desk Report

The Denim Expert Limited, one products, facilities


of the market leaders in quality and processes based
denim manufacturing, has on environmental
become the first manufacturer in performance, social
Bangladesh to join the Sustainable labor practices and
Apparel Coalition (SAC). The product design
manufacturer will use the group’s choices.
sustainability measurement CEO of SAC, Jason
suite of tools, the Higg Index, to Kibbey welcomed the
drive environmental and social addition of Denim
responsibility throughout its Expert Ltd. to the
supply chain. Sustainable Apparel
With its membership in the SAC, Coalition by saying,
the Denim Expert Ltd. joins “Look forward to their
more than 220 global brands, participation in this
retailers and manufacturers, as industry-wide effort
well as government, non-profit in sustainability.”
environmental organizations and “Having the Denim
academic institutions (including Expert Ltd. as part
Adidas, Puma, American Eagle, of the Coalition
Disnep, G-star, Levis, Gap, Aldo, widens the scope of
Figure: ‘Denim Expert Ltd.’ has joined the Sustainable
United Colors of Benetton, Apparel Coalition (SAC). Photo: Denim Expert Ltd. our impact within
Inditex, Canada, Esprit, H&M, the industry and
American Apparel & Footwear to achieve. 4,000 factories have
accelerates the change we’re
Foundation, GIZ, WWF etc.), been inspected, with remediation
making towards responsible
which are collectively committed achieved at 88 percent by the
industry actions,” he added.
to improving supply chain Accord, 90 percent by the
sustainability in the apparel, Alliance.” Mostafiz Uddin is a vocal supporter
footwear and textile industry. for sustainability and advancing
“This has now been achieved, it
Bangladesh’s apparel and textile
“We are pleased to join the SAC is done. Let’s hand it over to our
industries. In May, he spoke at
and it will have a positive impact own country. Our own culture to
the Copenhagen Fashion Summit
on product sustainability over manage,” he added.
about enabling transparency in
time and become a model for In its relationship with the SAC, garment manufacturing to create
how industries can collaborate Denim Expert Ltd. will contribute change.
in making a positive impact on both data and resources
value chain performance,” stated Earlier, Denim Expert Ltd.
to support the Higg Index,
Managing Director of Denim introduced a new water-saving
which measures sustainability
Expert Ltd., Mostafiz Uddin. collection in April that reduces
performance and drives supply
the amount of water needed to
For this achievement, he thanked chain transparency and decision-
make one pair of jeans by half.
The Accord & Alliance and making to improve efficiency and
The process combines technique-
said, “The Accord and Alliance sustainability impact.
based finishing processes to
have been founded for a good The Higg Index is an indicator- reduce the number of steps in
reason. We appreciate what has based suite of tools that enables wet finishing and utilizes efficient
happened, as without them it suppliers, manufacturers, brands washing machines.
would not have been possible and retailers to evaluate materials,

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 63


D e n i m To d a y

Agami Washing Ltd focuses on


innovation in product development
FT Research Team

Own Innovation in design and machine


development is the primary focus of Tupesa.
Agami Washing Ltd, a sister concern of Mostly they
Dekko Group, started its journey 3 years use Italian,
back at Gazipur. It is a full compliance Turkish,
and green model factory. The company Japanese,
accomplished most of the parameters and Chinese
set by Accord and Alliance. branded
technology.
“Own Innovation in design and
development is our primary focus in The company
R&D, our team is capable to create uses OZONE
attractive design in a sustainable fading system
way. G-Star Raw, Celio, Tommy, that takes
Espirit and C&A are our main buyers. air from the Figure 2: Agami washing Ltd has developed many denim products.
We have design studio, now we atmosphere and transforms it into
denim, non-denim, sweater etc.
follow the buyer’s artwork and ozone. It also effectively improves the
module, but at the same time, we whiteness of used areas and eliminating The company has achieved many
also develop our new designs, which the back staining of garments. awards in terms of developing
are also chosen by buyers,”Lelin product. “We have minimized the
Agami Washing R&D team brings
Zakir, Head of Plant, Agami Washing production cost compared to the
stunning aesthetic appearance on previous time. We saved chemical
Ltd and Vice President of BGWTF,
their development. cost and process cost, said Lelin,
said to Textile Today.
“We added both dry and wet former Manager (wash) of European
Currently, its washing capacity
fashion brand G-Star Raw.

The company applied wash in two


processes:

Wet Process: Garments Wash,


Enzyme Silicon Wash, Stone Enzyme
Wash(Dark Wash), Stone Enzyme
Medium Bleach Wash, Stone Enzyme
Bleach Wash( Lt Wash), Super Light
Wash, Acid/Snow Wash, Towel Bleach
Wash, Tint Wash, Rubber Ball, Garment
Dye, Dip Bleach, Dip Dye, Cold Dye.

Dry Process: Hand Scrapping,


Hand Whisker, Chevron, Tacking, Tie
Effect, Destroy, Grinding, Crinkle, 3D,
PP Rubbing, Resin Spy, PP Spy.

Figure 1: Modern and high-tech machines are used at Agami Washing Ltd

is around 70 thousand pieces of process on the item. In the dry


denim. Their laboratory is equipped process, we have 40 members work
with modern machines and creative in R&D team. We apply whickering,
technical experts. The washing unit scraping, grinding, tagging, side
equipped with modern and high-tech seam busting and tie effect. We
machines, including 11 front loading applied enzyme wash, bleaching
machines from TRIVENETA, 30 and PP spray for primary effect,
side-loading machines, eight sample further towel bleach wash enhanced
machines and eight high tech dryer the wash effect,” Lelin Zakir said
machines. It also using sustainable to Textile Today Research Team
OZONE fading machine from Jean expressing the process of their
logia, nano-bubble technology developed items like high fashion,
machine from Tonello and dryer Figure 3: Lelin Zakir, Head of Plant, Agami Washing Ltd.
fancy fashion, low cost production,

64 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


aamra resources
FOR APPAREL & TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTIVITY

We stand by our responsibilities towards our


customers, towards the environment and the people
around us. We make performance stand the test of
time. This is what we call – Sustainable Productivity.

SMARTLINK
Data Monitoring Program

www.atlascopco.com/smartlink
Te x t i l e I c o n


If Bangladesh could fix some policy, it can
be the main player in fabric production
and processing in the world...
Internal rivalry among entrepreneurs is ruining Bangladesh’s textile
industry. Common price policy is required to solve this problem.
Mohammed Shahinul Haque, Executive Director, Badsha Group

Mohammed Shahinul Haque is a visionary textile engineer with an extensive experience who has been serving
textile sector for last two decades. After completing his B.Sc. in textile engineering from College of Textile
Engineering & Technology (currently Bangladesh University of Textiles) in 1995, he started career in Beximco,
which was the pioneer in spinning and textile industry at that time, and served the organization for seven
years. Later on he joined in NR group and after that he joined in Badasha Group of industries and working
for last sixteen years. He is now leading the group as Executive Director. Badasha Group is one of the highest
capacity holding companies in Bangladesh in spinning and denim manufacturing.
Shahinul Haque has gathered in-depth knowledge in textile industry set up including spinning, weaving,
dyeing-finishing and machineries installation etc. He implemented his knowledge to set up new industry,
operation, product development, production planning, sales and marketing as well. He is one of the
prominent experts in the country in modern machineries selection and erection to make a new project
financially feasible. Along with all these professional strength, Shahinul Haque has special expertise in denim
mill set up, from machine selection to fabric production. He designed and established the Pioneer Denim
Limited, a sister concern of Badsha Group.

66 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Te x t i l e I c o n

Recently Industry Research 10 years at least to minimize the labor cost rise and environmental
Team of Textile Today has met production cost. In the industry issues. If we could fix some policy,
him to explore his professional price of finished products is not we could grab this opportunity
experiences and Badsha Group’s increasing where material cost is and will be the main player in
business operations. He has been upward. If utility cost also increase textile business.
selected as the ‘Textile Icon’ of July in parallel, local manufacturer
Textile Today: What challenges do
2018 issue of Textile Today. cannot compete and as a result,
we need to confront for grabbing
they need to sell the goods same
Textile Today: What initiative this opportunity?
as manufacturing cost or lower
should we take to develop
than that sometimes to continue Mohammed Shahinul Haque:
efficient people in this sector?
the running of manufacturing Our main challenge is product
Mohammed Shahinul Haque: wheel. It is a question of survival diversification. We are producing
There is no alternative than for the industry- the sector will not same category of products by
training to convert our population survive if utility cost increases in almost every manufacturer. For
into assets. We need to arrange every year. example, Bangladesh has 400
training to increase efficiency of spinning mills and almost every
our local people. Training can be spinning mill is producing same
provided by foreign experts or Our internal bad cotton or cotton blend yarn. There
combined with local experts. We competition is harming this is no special yarn producing by
also can arrange training for local industry. When one factory our spinners. 150+40D ACR (Air
trainers by foreign experts by a set up a large capacity of covering yarn) yarn is used for
certain period so that our local product then they need to super stretch denim fabric, which,
trainee can become an expert sell the fabric for continue is not available in Bangladesh.
trainer and train up other people. production and reduce Some entrepreneur should think
the price. Then customer about it start working on it to set
Foreign tour also can be a
is taking this advantage up spinning mills for such type of
good way of training. People
to other supplier. Clients special product.
can visit some industry in
claim then, if factory ‘A’
other countries and learn more We have become our own
can provide with this price
knowledge practically.Training by competitor in product category.
why you cannot. Then
manufacturer of the machineries This is damaging our business.
factory ‘B’ is bound to
company also can help us to Buyers are taking this opportunity.
reduce price. We need to
make technically sound. Such They have many options to choose
overcome this price barrier
trainings help in how to operate and then they are playing with
and need a common price
the machines and achieve highest price. We are getting very low
setting strategy.
efficiency by using existing margin, which is main struggle for
facilities in order to reduce our business.
manufacturing cost.
Our weakness is technical
Textile Today: What opportunities
Institutional training also can be knowledge shortage. Our
are waiting for Bangladesh textile
a good way of training. BUTEX or entrepreneurs should have
industry?
other educational institution can enough technical knowledge and
conduct some training courses for Mohammed Shahinul Haque: information. If they know, what
our fresh or experienced people. Bangladesh has good opportunity trend is coming next, they can
for textile business. Our backward plan for their business expansion.
Textile Today: How Government
linkage is now stronger than Due to lack of proper information,
should act to support our Textile
before. Our spinning mills business is not diversified and
industry?
are meeting up 90% of local expanding in same category.
Mohammed Shahinul Haque: consumption for knit and 40% Investment in diversified product
Government is an important for woven. Our textile mills group can bring more success for
stakeholder of this sector. They are providing major portion of this trade.
should fix some policy for required fabric for our own apparel
Textile Today: What techniques
booming this business. Policies export, which we had to import
should entrepreneur adopt for
need to be taken in utility cost earlier, and now we are exporting
getting better price?
reduction, continuous supply fabric to other countries as well.
of gas and electricity and Our main competitor China is Mohammed Shahinul Haque: our
infrastructure development etc. closing their business in this trade. entrepreneur should establish a
Government should subsidize in 40 denim mills have already shut common price policy. Our internal
power and energy sector. Utility down and will reduce 50% of the bad competition is harming this
price should not increase for next industry in next two years due to industry. When one factory set up

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 67


Te x t i l e I c o n D e n i m To d a y

a large capacity of product then Later on it has expand business issues. We have plan of expansion
they need to sell the fabric for in yarn manufacturing and the production capacity more 40
continue production and reduce established two spinning named million yards by 2019.
the price. Then customer is taking Badsha Textiles Ltd. and Kamal
Textile Today: What are the
this advantage to other supplier. Yarn Ltd. The latest addition in
Badsha Group’s next expansions?
Clients claim then, if factory ‘A’ Badsha group is Pioneer Denim
can provide with this price why Ltd, a modern mill of denim fabric Mohammed Shahinul Haque:
you cannot. Then factory ‘B’ is manufacturing. Pioneer Denim fashion Ltd. bottom
bound to reduce price. We need factory will start in 2019 having 50
Textile Today: What is the
to overcome this price barrier lines and will be extended in more
production capacity of Pioneer
and need a common price setting 50 lines soon. We have established
Denim Ltd and what are the major
strategy. washing factory for denim
technologies using there?
washing. We also have 3000 Shima
Textile Today: What are the
Mohammed Shahinul Haque: Our Seiki auto machine in sweater
Badsha group’s current business
manufacturing facility is 1.4 million project and plan to expand more in
operations?
sq. ft. and yearly production sweater business.
Mohammed Shahinul Haque: capacity is about 40 million yards.
For textile business expansion, our
Badsha Group is a three decade For this huge production, we have
other project of fashion denim and
experienced textile conglomerate. high tech German machineries
super stretch or bi-stretch denim is
Its business operation started that are highly productive and
under construction. It will help for
in 1978 by raw cotton and yarn efficient. ETP is most vital thing
import reduction and save our lead
trading. The main business in denim production and we are
time.
operation started in 2000 by aware on that. Pioneer Denim Ltd.
establishing Pioneer Sweaters has 6000 m^3 per day capacity of
Limited in international business. ETP considering the environmental

Ananta Garments Ltd. bags ‘H&M Denim Brands Award 2018’


FT Research Team

Ananta Garments Limited has bagged professional background. What they


“H&M Denim Brands Award 2018’” as have achieved is fruition of dedication in
the ‘Most Diversified Performer’ of H&M. product development. After assessing
This award is given in consideration of a design or concept given by buyer, the
making multiple styles, using assorted R&D team gives necessary suggestions
fabrics and applying of distinctive and new concept. Their laboratory is
wash to make exclusive products. H&M Figure 2: Innovation capacity in conjunction
level 3 category approved by H&M.
handed over the award in a business with safety in application made Ananta
For product development, they use
gathering held at H&M Dhaka office on Garments a reliable supplier to brands like H&M
top-notch machineries such as front-
5 July 2018. etc. Usually H&M gives extra premium
loading Yilmack and J.Lary machine,
to producers for producing products
Md. Masudur Rahman, AGM of Wash belly machine - NAGI SHING and dryer
for these brands. Ananta Garments Ltd.
(R&D and Planning) and Rajib Sarwor, machine. They also have modern
regularly develops products and produces
Manager of Merchandising have received dry process facilities for R&D like 3d
denim products for these brands. Ananta
the award on behalf of Ananta Garments machine, laser,Tagging Machine, Grinding
is one of the gold suppliers of H&M among
Ltd. Machine, PP Spray booth, Resin Spray
three factories in Bangladesh.
booth, pen destroy machine, mannequin
H&M has many brands namely Cheap
As a premium supplier, Ananta Garments for Scraping, mannequins for whicker,
Monday, Monki, Weekday, ARKET, Afound
Ltd. has their own development sewing machine and ironing.
concept, own risk
analysis capacity
of any style,
test parameters
ensuring facility
etc.

AGL has dedicated


and dynamic R&D
team with strong
Figure 1: Inamul Haq Khan, MD of Ananta Garments Ltd. (6th Figure 3: Specially developed sample for
from left to right) with the R&D team.
educational and
H&M.

68 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


P r i n t i n g To d a y

Quality assurance in printing,


the Square Fashions’ model
Square Fashions Ltd. uses world-class printing machinery and skilled workforce to ensure
the quality of printed products

Textile Today Industry Research Team

Printing is one of the important keeping updated and well managed


value-adding processes to the final chemical inventory, storage,
garment. To the fashion conscious handling, application and discharge.
peoples, printed garments are
Secondly, all stuff working in
more acceptable now and they are
printing R&D at SFL have a strong
inclined to pay extra. So, there are
chemistry background. Man,
huge prospects in this industry to
machine, and material, when all
generate revenue by producing
these elements synchronized then
top-notch products.
Figure 1: K.M. Nazrul Islam, Assistant it’s possible to achieve expected
With the most sophisticated General Manager of SFL Printing. quality and production.
vertically integrated infrastructure,
Quality is the first priority Nazrul Islam said, “All of our staffs
Square Fashions Limited (SFL)
are aware of quality and we train
started its project in 2001 as a Raw materials are the key factors them regular basis on production
one-stop source for the global knit in printing where quality varies and quality aspects.”
apparel market to meet customers’ frequently. Since printing is the
expectation by providing feature most sensitive process, to ensure
products and services on time. quality the full process needs to be
Eventually Printing section has monitored critically.
become a momentous section
“First of all, Square printing
of SFL where quality is the first
gives maximum importance on
priority over anything, which is
purchasing and using right and quality
also the company motto.
dyes, chemicals, and other agents,”
SFL printing has world class 6 said K.M. Nazrul Islam, Assistant
headed two MHM-Syncro 3000 General Manager of Printing. Figure 3: Square Fashion Ltd. (SFL)
rotary screen printing machine, 8 printing production floor is equipped with
They mainly use European branded world-class brand machinery.
headed two MHM iQ oval screen
chemicals and some from Malaysia Square also shares a certain
printing machine and also 8 headed
and China. Because a good percentage of their profit at the
two S.ROQUE oval screen printing
printing paste is mainly responsible end of the financial year with
machine. SFL printing section’s daily
for good printing effect. They every staff to give them sense of
total capacity is about 100,000
ensure all necessary tests to ownership.
pieces where about 1100 skilled
guarantee quality before use in
workforces are engaged. SFL has been working with almost
bulk.
all renowned buyers like PUMA,
Each and every H&M, G-STAR, MEXX, ESPRIT,
printing chemical s.Oliver, Marks & Spencer, HUGO
go through BOSS etc. “PUMA has been
standard quality working with us for the last 14
testing process years only for quality and on-time
before it is used delivery,” Nazrul Islam said.
on the process.
Dr. Eric HL Tan, Director of
Thanks critically
SILKFLEX and one of the
adopted chemical
important chemical suppliers of
management
SFL printing said, “They are 100%
system within
quality conscious so that we
the company
Figure 2: Quality Assurance Dept. was checking the
always have to be careful to give
which helps
quality of products after printing. the best quality products to SFL.”

70 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


F i b e r To d a y

Properties,
production and
use of milk fiber
Dr. N.N.Mahapatra
B.Sc (Hons) B.Sc (Tech) (Bom) M.Sc (Chem), Ph.D (Chem), M.B.A (IMM,Cal) C.Col FSDC (UK),
CText FTI (Manchester), FRSC (UK) Int Trg (Australia), Sen Mem , AATCC (USA), FAIC (USA)
FIC, FTA, FICS, FIE, FIIChE, MISTE (INDIA)
President
COLORANT LTD.

Milk fiber extracted


Fibers like cotton Linen have
ruled the world since the start of
civilization. As we speak about
innovation and technology, China
with its large-scale production has The yarn is used in art Making Tows
invented new fibers like Milk and
Soybean. Though in the 1940’s
the fibers were quite popular
in America and Europe, the
market collapsed due to World
War II. Now regenerated fibers
are more efficient and durable
than any other fiber invented
Dyed milk tows
before or existing today. Milk
fiber was invented in 1930‘s in
Milk yarn
Italy by Antonio Ferratti. It was
manufactured from milk casein to
compete with wool. Casein fibers have
since being produced under various
names in a number of countries,
a. Lanital in Belgium and France.
Figure 1: Extraction and spinning of milk fiber. Source: http://marenscott.blogspot.
b. Fibrolane in Britain. com/2012/11/spinning-milk-fiber.html
c. Merinova in Italy.
d. Wipolan in Poland.
qualities than man-made fibers. Production of milk fiber
e. Aralac in America
Casein (milk) protein dates back
Casein is obtained by the acid
Casein is obtained by the acid many centuries when it was used
treatment of skimmed milk.
treatment of skimmed milk. The as a binder for paints – paint with
The casein coagulates as a curd
casein coagulates as a curd which casein applied to 14th and 15th-
which is washed and dried, and
is washed and dried, and then century churches still appear
then ground to a fine powder.
ground to fine powder. 35 liters bright and unfaded. Proteins
Casein is dissolved in caustic soda
of skimmed milk produce about 1 are obtained from skim milk,
solution. The solution is allowed
kg of casein. Today‘s milk fiber is evaporated milk and condensed milk.
to ripen until it reaches a suitable
environmentally friendly, superior There are about three pounds of
viscosity, and is then filtered and
in strength and has far better casein in every 100 pounds of milk.
deaerated. The spinning solution

72 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


F i b e r To d a y

is wet spun by extrusion through Milk fiber has passed oeko-tex


spinnerets into a coagulating bath standard 100 green certifications
Casein containing sulphuric acid (2 parts), for the international ecological
formaldehyde (5 parts), glucose textiles. The milk fiber contains
(20 parts) and water (100 parts). eighteen amino-acids, which is
The jets of solution coagulate beneficial to human’s health and
Mixing (caustic
into filaments in a manner similar has the functions of nourishing
soda and water)
to the coagulation of viscose and taking care of skin. The wet
filaments. But the next process spinning technology, a unique
is very critical as the fiber has to spinning solvent is used, micro-
be treated chemically to harden zinc ions are embedded in the
Filtration it. The process is commonly fiber, after drying and after
described as “hardening”, in treatment, zinc oxide is produced,
that it minimized the softening and therefore it is bacteriostatic and
effects of water. Treatment with durable. Casein fiber is produced
Deaeration formaldehyde forms the basis of almost entirely as staple, tow or top.
many hardening techniques. In the
Properties of Milk fiber
plant scale bunches of filaments
are collected together into a tow Milk fiber resembles wool in having
Hardening as they leave the coagulating a soft warm handle. The fibers
bath, and are then steeped in are naturally crimped, and yarns
formaldehyde solution. The have a characteristic warmth and
filaments are subjected to drawing fullness of handle. It provides
good thermal insulation. They are
Drawing at this stage. After treatment, the
resilient, like wool. Casein fibers
tow is washed and dried, crimped
mechanically, and then cut into cannot be distinguished from
staple fiber. Otherwise, the tow wool fibers by chemical or burning
to top convertor makes tops for tests, only by microscope. because
Tow blending with wool. the chemical composition is so
similar, casein burns like wool
Following are the varieties
with the odor of burning hair, has
available in the market.
no surface scales like wool but is
Spinning Staple fiber /tops smooth and round when viewed
under a microscope, is damaged
Table 1: Available staples of milk
readily by alkalis and mildews easily.
fiber.
The filaments are smooth surfaced.
fineness length
Washing 1.56 dtex 38 mm
Cross section is bean shaped.
The natural color is white. When
1.56 dtex 46 mm wet, the fibers lose much of their
2.22 dtex 76 mm strength; tenacity falls to 0.6 to 0.3
g/den. Milk fiber tends to absorb
Drying
Table 2: Comparison in properties of Casein, Silk, Wool and Cotton fiber.
Properties Casein Silk Wool Cotton
Crimping Tenacity gm/den 1.1-0.9 1-1.5 1.5-2.0 2-5.5
Elongation, % 60-70 25-45 25-40 6-10
Density, gm/cm3 1.30 1.34-1.38 1.33 1.50-1.54
Moisture regain % 14 11.0 14-16 9
Cutter
Acid resistance Good excellent excellent Bad
Alkali resistance Bad good bad Excellent
Resistance to Resistance Resistance Resistance Resistance
Baling moth/fungus to moth to Fungus to fungus to moth
but not to but not To but not to but not to
fungus moth moth fungus
U.V resistance bad bad bad good
Figure 2: Flowchart of milk fiber production

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 73


F i b e r To d a y

moisture readily, and the fibers c. W


 orsted system - Casein /wool followed by careful washing and
become swollen and soft. They or viscose blends. acidification with acetic acid.
may become plastic and sticky Normal optical bleaching agents
d. Flax system - Casein/viscose blends.
as the temperature is raised. The may be applied.
fibers become brittle and yellow Table 3: Possible blends and
4. Dyeing- Casein absorbs
on prolonged heating at over fiber count range with milk fiber.
moisture readily and does
100 deg c. It burns slowly in air. TYPE OF COUNT not have a highly orientated
Flammability is similar to wool. BLENDS structure. Dyes can penetrate
The fiber base body does not have
100% Milk yarn 10-80 Ne into the fiber without difficulty.
regular channels, which makes the
Milk fiber/ 10-80 Ne Casein can be dyed with
milk fiber have as fine as moisture
cotton dyestuffs used for wool. Acid,
absorption as a natural fiber and
Basic, Direct and Disperse dyes
better moisture conduction than Milk fiber/ 10-80 Ne
are used where good washing
synthetic fibers. Milk fiber is both cotton/modal
–fastness is noted as a prime
comfortable and permeable. Milk fiber/ 10-80 Ne essential. Metal complex dyes
Fibers are white, fluffy, springy and Tencel give high wash fastness. PH of the
have a pleasant odor. Even though
Milk fiber/ 10-80 Ne dye liquor should be between pH
casein fiber lacks certain desirable
bamboo fiber 4 & 6. Dyeing is usually carried
qualities of wool it was a way to
Milk fiber/ 16-80 Ne out at 90-95 deg c.
replace wool at a lower cost. When
mixed with viscose and wool, cashmere/wool 5. Printing- Fabrics containing
casein helped in the conservation Milk fiber/silk 16-80 Ne casein may be printed by block,
effort during World War II as a screen, & roller. Acid, basic, direct,
Milk fiber/ 16-80 Ne
wool substitute. Though caseins chrome, mordant, azoic, vat or
camel hair
can be laundered with care the pigment dyes may be used.
Milk fiber/silk/ 16-80 Ne
same as wool, they lose strength 6. Finishing- Crease –resist finishes
cashmere
when wet and must be handled gently. may be applied to blends
Milk fiber/silk/ 16-80 Ne
They cannot be kept damp for any containing casein fiber, using
cashmere/
length of time due to quick mildewing. temperatures not higher than 160
Tencel/cotton
Today’s milk fiber is deg c. for approximately 2.5 mins.
environmentally friendly, superior Chemical processing of Milk
Uses of Milk Protein fiber
in strength and has a far better Protein Fiber (Casein)
One of the earliest uses for casein
qualities than man-made fibers. Milk protein fiber has different
fiber was in the making of feeling
Blending of milk fiber physical and chemical construction
for hats. Casein/wool blends are
from natural protein fiber, care is
When blended with other fibers used for knitted berets. Casein/
taken in the following steps;
casein added a soft draping cotton or nylon blended fabrics
quality and resiliency to fabrics. 1. Desizing- Enzyme products may are used for interlock outerwear,
The fiber was blended with wool be used, preferably at pH 4.0 to T-shirts, cardigans, jumpers etc.
for creating felt and with spun 6.0. If water-soluble sizes have Casein blended with wool, cotton,
rayon, wool, mohair and cotton been used, sizing is not necessary. viscose, nylon is used in Raschel
for attractive woven and knitted 2. Scouring- Synthetic detergents cloths, coatings, and blanket
fabrics in a variety of weaves, should be used, preferably under fabrics. Blends of casein and wool
textures, and prints. The popular acid conditions, e.g. pH 6.0. are made into pressed felts for
blends were wool- 94% and use as floor coverings and used in
3. Bleaching- Casein fiber is conventional and tufted carpets.
casein fiber -6%., viscose-50% and
generally white, and bleaching Pile carpets are made using casein
casein fiber- 50%. Casein/cotton
is not usually necessary. If -50% and wool or viscose -50%.
blends are popular for hosiery and
required, it should be carried
carpets. A small amount of fiber Acknowledgment: The author is
out under weak conditions,
is used for 100% casein goods, thankful to Mr. Subhash Bhargava
e.g. pH 4.0-6.0 as Casein fibers
but most casein fiber is blended FSDC (UK) Managing Director,
retain maximum strength
with wool, cotton, rayon, nylon COLORANT LTD., Ahmedabad,
and minimum swelling under
and other staple fibers. Blends India for giving permission to
these conditions. Hypochlorite
containing casein may be spun on publish this article.
bleaches should not be used.
all the usual systems.
Bleaching may be carried out
a. Cotton system - viscose/casein blends. with Hydrogen Peroxide – 2 GPL
b. Woolen system - Casein/ wool at a pH of 8.0 using Sodium
or viscose blends. Pyrophosphate. It must be

74 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Sustainable Fiber

Lyocell fiber market


to hit $1.5bn by 2024
Desk Report

According to a new research turn has positively influenced the


report by Global Market Insights industry.
Inc., Lyocell fiber market size is
According to the report, the
going to reach over USD 1.5 billion
petrochemical fibers have been
by 2024.
substituted by cellulosic man-
The Asia Pacific seized the highest made fibers, which has spurred
share in both revenue and volume the product adoption in the
and would grow with the similar manufacturing processes. The
trend over the forecast timeframe. pressure on synthetic fiber
Growing textiles industry, coupled Figure 1: Lyocell Fiber Market worth over manufacturers has increased due
with enhanced consumer living $1.5bn by 2024. to the increasing demand for
standards in this region are naturally derived fibers.
be recycled and can be reused
triggering the lyocell fiber market
after the end of a product’s The product finds its application
size. In 2016, the regional industry
lifecycle. in various segments such as baby
was more than USD 550 million
diapers, home textiles, apparels,
and will grow at a rapid pace by Government initiatives have been
automotive filters, surgical
2024. taken to adopt sustainable fibers
products and many more. The
for textile and apparels industry.
Fashion trends have changed healthcare and wound care textiles
The apparels segment in North
rapidly over the past few years segment is likely to grow at a
America accounted for a major
and will continue to do so in the robust pace, owing to the evolving
chunk of the product share (over
coming years, which will drive technologies for recovery of
40%) in 2016. The environment-
the industry growth. Modern surgical wounds, thus propelling
friendly production process of the
technology and fibers have been the lyocell fiber market.
material also acts as a major driver
developed which have escalated
to boost the lyocell fiber market. Despite numerous opportunities,
the use of better quality materials
There has been a significant the lyocell fiber market will face
and has driven the lyocell fiber
impact through social media on challenges due to its expensive
marker demand. Brands have
the apparel segment, which in pricing compared to the eco-
started focusing on fibers that can
friendly alternatives. Extra caring
for delicate fabrics such as cold
rinse, hand wash, and dry-clean
can increase the maintenance
Lyocell Fiber costs as well. Also, the product
Market
shrinks up to 3% after the first
wash. These factors will act as
lyocell fiber market restraints in the
Application Product coming years.
Staple
Fiber
Some of the major industry
players in lyocell fiber market
include Lenzing AG, Baoding Swan
Fiber Co, Acegreen Eco-Material
Baby Automotive Cross-
Home Surgical
Apparels
textiles products diapers filters Others linked
Fiber
Technology, China Populus Textile,
Chonbang, Qingdao Textiles
Group Fiber Technology, Acelon
Chemicals & Fiber Corporation and
North America Europe Asia Pacific Latin America MEA
smart-fiber AG.
Figure 2: Industry background of Lyocell fiber.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 77


Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e

Manufacturers need to
invest in digital continuity
RMG makers also could look for easy ways to transform their apparels into
smart responsive and connecting product

Textile Today Technical Team

Manufacturers have estimated Operations


that close to 50 percent of at Schneider
their products will be smart Electric.
and connected by 2020, a 32 While talking
percentage point increase from to Textile Today
2014, according to a recent editor, Engr.
report by the French professional Hasan Shahriar,
services company, Capgemini. a post-doctoral
In fact, over 18 percent of the researcher in
manufacturers said that they plan North Carolina
to stop manufacturing products State University
altogether and move to a pure Figure 2: Some of the graphene and nanomaterials made told that a good
responsive and communicative materials are displayed in the
service-based business model, last Intertextile held in Shanghai in March 2018. number of
as per the report. A move in this technologies have
direction will make the shift to a been developed in recent times
manufacturers need to invest
service-based model a business to make textiles responsive and
in digital continuity and digital
imperative and will require connecting. These applications
capabilities to benefit.
enhanced capabilities. could easily be incorporated
Apparel industry, by the way, is in apparel items as well. He
The new report “Digital
not far from this trend. There are suggested apparel manufacturers
Engineering: The new growth
companies who are working to not to think that the smart
engine for discrete manufacturers”
insert automation and connectivity textile industry is different from
by Capgemini’s Digital
tools in the apparel. Many them. The smart connectivity
Transformation Institute reveals
significant developments have technologies now could be easily
that the global manufacturing
occurred in the field of smart applied in a regular textile mill with
industry could expect to see
textiles in recent times. With the some necessary small changes. He
between $519-$685 billion in
invention of graphene; now smart highlighted a great future of such
value-added revenue by 2020
textiles are quite as same as the textiles.
through the development and
wearable clothes.
sale of smart, connected devices. Manufacturers have responded
It highlights that while the “We want to bring value to the enthusiastically to new
potential returns are significant, market by shifting our business technologies and are already
model toward rebalancing their IT investments
service-based and accordingly. Around 50% of
cloud-connected manufacturers aim to spend more
architectures. It than 100 million euros in Product
is a key way to Lifecycle Management (PLM)
differentiate our platforms and digital solutions
value proposition in the next two years, while the
in the market of proportion of IT budget earmarked
pure hardware for maintaining legacy systems has
players,” dropped significantly, from 76% in
said Antoine 2014 to 55% in 2017.
Destribats,
“Digital technologies are reshaping
Figure 1: Apparel manufacturers also can adopt (in future) Vice President
easy ways of producing smart, automatic, responsive and the manufacturing landscape.
– Industrial
communicative wearable products.

78 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Te c h n i c a l Te x t i l e

Product-based business models China, Sweden, Netherlands,


are being disrupted by service- Invention of new thin and Germany, France, UK and the US.
based business model, new skills light durable conductive These executives were drawn
are needed in a world of smart materials, huge development from director-level or above, from
products, and innovation success in nanotechnology and 3D a diverse set of functions, and
depends on the effectiveness of a printing etc. has changed the were closely associated with their
company’s open ecosystem,” said reality of smart textiles a lot. organization’s digital engineering
the report. Smart textiles now doesn’t initiatives. Of the organizations in
Jean-Pierre Petit, Head of digital necessary mean hard, weighty the survey, 62 percent had global
manufacturing at Capgemini said, and uncomfortable materials, revenues of $2 billion or more.
“With the significant potential today it has become very light, The invention of new thin
gains of smart, connected washable, wearable but heavy and light durable conductive
products and digital continuity duty. More importantly the materials, a huge development in
predicted in the next two years, production of smart textiles is nanotechnology and 3D printing
the requirement to invest in new also getting easier day by day. etc. has changed the reality of
technologies is too large for smart textiles a lot. Smart textiles
manufacturers to ignore. However, now don’t necessarily mean
new ways of working. It will be
the road to getting there is a hard, weighty and uncomfortable
a lot of work, but for those that
challenging one. Manufacturers materials, today it has become
get it right there is a sustainable
must balance the priorities very light, washable, wearable but
leadership to gain.”
between sustaining their core heavy duty. More importantly, the
businesses while investing in The research surveyed 1,000 production of smart textiles is also
digital acceleration. They must senior executives from global getting easier day by day. This is
make investments in digital skills, manufacturing organizations going to bring a huge change in
ecosystems, tools, roadmaps and across nine countries: Italy, India, the future of smart apparel.

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107(Water),61(Laundering:Accelerated), ASTM D 5034 Breaking Strength and Director, Dysin-chem Ltd.
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Te x t i l e W o r l d Te x t i l e P e o p l e

Huntsman Textile Effects bags two DMAI awards


Desk Report

Huntsman Textile Effects, leading is a testament to our commitment


provider of high-quality dyes, towards innovation and continual
chemicals and digital inks to the focus in the field of environmental
textiles related industries, has protection and pollution control.
got two awards from the 2018 We look forward to working
Awards of Dyestuff Manufacturers towards driving sustainability
Association of India (DMAI). across the textile value chain.”
The awards were presented at This is the third consecutive
Figure: Huntsman got two awards in
the 68th Annual General Meeting continued recognition of its ‘Excellent year Huntsman Textile Effects
of DMAI in Mumbai. Huntsman performance in Exports of Dyestuffs has won the DMAI Awards. Last
by a Large Scale Unit’ and ‘Excellent
Textile Effects received the awards performance in Pollution Control by a
year Huntsman won awards for
based on the criteria such as Large Scale Unit’. Credit: Intimo Hub ‘Excellent Performance in Exports
technological innovation and Manufacturers Association of India of Dyestuffs by Large-Scale unit’
process optimization thereby for the third time,” said Dheeraj and ‘Excellent performance in
reducing the output of greenhouse Talreja, Commercial Director, Pollution Control by a Large Scale
gases. South Asia, Middle East and Unit’. Huntsman Textile Effects also
“It is an honor to be recognized for Africa – Huntsman Textile Division, won an award in the category for
our performance in exports and Huntsman Singapore PTE Ltd. ‘Excellent Performance in Safety
pollution control from the Dyestuff and Hazard’s Control by a Large
He further added, “This recognition
Scale unit’.

Prof. Nabi Khan selected for the international


‘Holden Medal Award’
Desk Report

Prof Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, management, research,


Pro Vice-Chancellor of BGMEA process, product and
University of Fashion & Technology technology development.
(BUFT), is the first Bangladeshi He did his B.Sc. in Textiles
to win the Holden Medal for Engineering from the
Education International Award by University of Dhaka,
‘The Textile Institute, Manchester, M.Sc., and Ph. D from the
UK’ for his outstanding University of Manchester,
contributions in technology-based the UK in the same field
education at the levels. under the Commonwealth
The Textile Institute was founded Scholarship & Fellowship
Figure: Prof Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
in the year 1910 and was chartered program.
by the British Government in 1925. Khan said, “I am delighted to be
Prof. Khan is a Syndicate Member
The Institute has Individual and selected for the Holden Medal for
of Bangladesh University of
Corporate members in up to 80 Education by The Textile Institute,
Textiles (BUTEX). He is a Fellow
countries; membership covers UK, which is truly an International
of Textile Institute the UK and
all sectors and all disciplines in recognition.”
Section Chairman of International
textiles management, art, design, “Contributions I have made in Textile Institute UK Bangladesh
fashion, economics, science, Education was especially in the section and the executive editor
engineering, research, production, areas of textile management,” he of Bangladesh Textile Today. He
marketing, selling, retailing, added. is the youngest son of late Alhaj
education and training etc. The Rashid Ahmed Khan and late Alhaj
Dr. Khan is a renowned Textile
award is made to an institute Noorjahan Begum.
Engineer turned educationist
member only.
having 30 years of experience in On 25th July 2018, The Textile
Expressing his pleasure on the teaching, educational planning Institute, The University of Leeds,
selection for the prestigious and management, education and will arrange an International
Holden Medal for education Dr. industrial consultancy, project Conference to hand over this award.

80 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


PPI Training on

Garment Printing Technology

Content:
Date:
 Various Printing Techniques.
 Functionalities of printing chemicals.
22nd , 23rd, 29th &
 Factors considering in material selection.
30th September ,2018
 Methodology of Screen Printing.
 Variety of Textile Screen Printing.
 Pre-press details. Time:
 Advanced printing technology.
09.00 AM – 5.00 PM
 Details analysis of Water Base printing including fashionable effects.
 Plastisol printing & its effectiveness.
 Solvent Base printing scope in Bangladesh.
 Effects create with Silicone Printing agents.
Course fee:
BDT 9,900/- (Nine thousand nine
Eligibility: hundred taka only).
 Minimum graduate in any discipline interested in garment printing area. ** TTH Alumni will get special discount.
** 2 or more participants from one
 H.S.C with minimum 2 years related practical/factory experience
organization will get 20% discount.

Mentor’s Profile Who should attend?


Executives, Supervisors from textile printing
industry & its related personnel who are eager to
be more competitive in manufacturing and
business.
Textile graduates who are interested to build up
Monirul Alam career in garment printing sector.
Sr. General Manager-Printing Executives from dyes, chemicals, machinery or
DYSIN-CHEM LTD. advisory service providing organization of the
More than 18 years of experience in textile garment printing industry.
printing chemicals manufacturing & its
application. He is pioneer to introduce Plastisol, J o i n t l y o rg ani z ed by
Solvent Base, Silicone base printing chemicals
successfully in Bangladesh.
Transforming Human Capital

P l e a s e b o o k y o u r s e a t h e r e : w w w. t r a i n i n g . t e x t i l e t o d a y. c o m . b d

Contact Venue
Sanjoy Kumar Saha DYSIN Conference Center & Printing
Textile Today Demonstration and Workshop in
M. 01734211085 Mirpur, Dhaka-1000
E. training@textiletoday.com.bd
Foundation Course on
Factory Skills Development in

Merchandising

Course summary Date:


Number of days : 5 (One Day/Week)
22th, 29th Sept, 6th, 13th & 20th Oct 2018
Number of Class : 10
Duration : 2 hours per class Time:
4.00 PM – 8.00 PM

Mentor’s Profile
Pricing and costing:
Costing and technic of negotiations

Sourcing:
Factory, Raw Materials, Print and Embroidery and Logistics
Commercial and logistics:
Payment terms, Commercial issues and Logistics

Follow up:
Technic of successful follow up, new development and Ashfaque Ahmed Md. Mahbubur Rahman
Director Operations Sr. Merchandiser
production
Promoda Textiles Ltd. Li & Fung Ltd.
MS word and Excel:
Booking, PO, PI, IV, Packing list, Delivery challan, Lead-time,
Critical path making

Factory opening:
Factory sourcing and factory assessment

Quality & Inspection:


Understanding of qualities, Testing, AQL & Inspection Mir Shahed Chowdhury Mohammad Mezbah Uddin
Managing Director Executive Director
Huaren Linen Group T&M Sourcing Ltd.
Executive Attire Ltd.

Eligibility Course Fees:


∠ Textile & Apparel Engineering students who BDT 4,900/- (Four Thousand Nine Hundred Taka Only)
has completed minimum 3rd year of B.Sc. - 10% discount for Textile Today Subscriber.
degree. Students having ‘Internship/Factory
- 5 or more participants from one organization will get special discount.
Attachment’ will get preference.
- TTH Alumni will get special discount.
∠ Good academic track record.
∠ 3 years of experience in apparel industry.

P l e a s e b o o k y o u r s e a t h e r e : w w w. t r a i n i n g . t e x t i l e t o d a y. c o m . b d
Te c h n i c a l t e x t i l e

UBC discover process to eliminate


wrinkling in textile composite
manufacturing
Desk Report

Textile composites are known


for their strength and durability.
Researchers at UBC’s (University
of British Columbia) Okanagan
campus are working to solve the
issue of wrinkling when it comes to
making textile composites.
Abbas Milani, a Professor in UBC
Okanagan’s School of Engineering
explained that a simple wrinkle
in the manufacturing process
can significantly alter the end
product—sometimes diminishing
its strength by 50 percent.
Figure 1: Engineering Professor Abbas Milani and a graduate student Armin Rashidi use
Wrinkling is one of the most 3D scanning equipment to analyze textile composites. Credit: UBC Okanagan
common flaws in textile
removes unwanted bumps and folds. the area of composite textiles to
composites, which are widely
include more polymer resin and
used for prototypes, as well as The challenge was to avoid
fiber reinforcement options, this
mass production within prominent unwanted fiber misalignment or
research will need to continue in
aerospace, energy, automotive and fiber rupture while capturing the
order to provide the most up-to-
marine applications, Abbas Milani out-of-plane wrinkles.
date analysis for manufacturers in
explained. “Manufacturers who use these different application areas.
To iron out the problem, types of composites are looking
It is important for designers to be
researchers at UBC’s Composite for more information about their
able to predict the right amount
Research Network-Okanagan mechanical behavior, especially under
of force needed to diminish the
have investigated several de- combined loading scenarios, “said
wrinkles in the final product,
wrinkling methods and have graduate student Armin Rashidi.
explained Milani. To do this, his
discovered that they can improve The research included stretching team of students has created
their effectiveness by pulling the material and then using a multi-step test to assess the
the materials in two directions specialized image processing magnitude of the required forces
simultaneously during the and 3D scanning to analyze the needed to smooth out wrinkles of
manufacturing process. They required forces and its impact on different sizes that were formed
did this by creating a custom- the wrinkling and de-wrinkling of at different shear angles of a
made biaxial fixture -- a clamp that the material. comingled fiberglass-propylene
stretches the textile taught and
As we continue to innovate in plain weave fabric.

Formation of wrinkles De wrinkling process Analysis Results

Figure 2: Graphical representation of the process.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 83


Te x t i l e W o r l d

The US desperate to increase cotton


export to Bangladesh
Desk Report

China has recently imposed 25 on imports,” said Sabbir


percent retaliatory duty on the Ahmed Chowdhury,
import of cotton from the US as Program Representative
part of the ‘trade war’ between of Cotton Council
the two countries. The US cotton International (CCI) in
growers have fall in dire concern Bangladesh.
fearing the great consequences “US cotton, however,
they face due to the added can become a bigger
Figure 1: An eight-member Cotton USA executive
duty. And so they have been source of high quality,
delegations arrived in Dhaka to meet the representatives
urging China not to be severe on of the Bangladeshi spinning and garment industry to reliable cotton in
agricultural goods. Meanwhile promote US Cotton. Photo: Cotton USA.
Bangladesh if a level
the US government is coming up playing field can be created,” said
production, supply and demand,
with big bail out for the farmers to William R. Bettendorf, Director of
and US cotton fiber quality,
protect them. And eventually the Cotton Council International.
sustainability, and delivery issues.
cotton growers are also desperately
But there are some difficulties to “And for that, it is necessary to
looking for alternative markets.
export cotton in Bangladesh from remove those unnecessary restrictions
Bangladesh is the largest cotton like fumigation,” he added.
the USA. That is why the cotton
importer in the world, while
sector leaders from the United “Almost no other cotton importing
the United States is the largest
States want Bangladesh to lift countries including China or
exporter and the US share in the
the old fumigation rules on the Vietnam have that phytosanitary
Bangladeshi cotton market is very
import of US cotton as the process requirement,” Bettendorf noted.
less as the latter is overwhelmingly
imposes an additional cost burden
dependent on Indian cotton for feeding “Long transit time coupled with
on the importers and spinners and
its readymade garment industry. the congestion at the Chittagong
results in increased lead-time.
port increases the cost while also
To protect its cotton industry from
As a guest of honor at Cotton creating much more exposure to
a sudden plunge already US has
USA, US Ambassador Marcia price volatility,”said Faus, who is the
started competition to get a hold
Bernicat spoke proudly of the CEO of US cotton giant Omnicotton.
of Bangladesh market. Recently
strong Bangladesh-US economic
an eight-member Cotton USA “Cotton from the United States is
relationship. She also noted
executive delegation consisting machine picked, it is contamination-
that the US is the number one
of Raymond Faus, President free and it can also provide a more
consumer of Bangladesh’s exports,
of American Cotton Shippers reliable supply,” he added.
especially from its dynamic
Association (ACSA), Tim North- Tim G North, who is the CEO
readymade garment (RMG) sector.
ACSA, Carlos Garcia- AMCOT, of ECOM USA, said that the US
John Lindamood, American Cotton American Cotton Shippers
cotton is independently classed by
Producers, Steve Wilbur, American Association (ACSA) President
the US Department of Agriculture.
Cotton Producers, Tim Barry, Vice Raymond Faus urged Bangladesh to
Therefore, it is more reliable in terms
President ICE Futures-ICE, Marc review the restrictions. The restrictions
of quality and characteristics.
Lewkowitz, President of SUPIMA, include phytosanitary requirements.
William Bettendorf, Director of US sees Bangladesh as the
Raymond Faus said that only US
South Asia of Cotton Council alternative of china, however, it’s
cotton is subject to fumigation in
International, has arrived in Dhaka not going to be easy for them as
Bangladesh, allegedly to prevent boll
to meet Bangladeshi spinning and Bangladesh imports most of their
weevil but that boll weevil has been
garment industry and promote use of cotton from India.
eradicated from the US long ago.
US Cotton and engage the industries
“The fumigation rule was enacted
to better understand US Cotton.
in the late 1960s reportedly to
The Cotton USA organized a protect Pakistani cotton against
seminar in Dhaka on 16 July to competition from US cotton.
celebrate the third edition of But the rule is irrelevant now as
Cotton Day in Bangladesh where Bangladesh is not a major cotton
they highlighted the world cotton Figure 2: US wants BD will withdraw
producer and depends heavily cotton import restrictions.

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.
Circular Fashion

‘Worn Again’ to accelerate its


patented recycling technology
Desk Report

Worn Again Technologies, a British a grant to become the first chemical


start-up developing polymer and recycling technology to be Cradle to
cellulose recycling technology, Cradle (C2C) certified.
will bring its patented innovation
Angel investor and Chairman Craig
to market after hitting GBP5m
Cohon, said, “For the last few
(US$6.6m) investment target.
years, fighting against industry
After more than six years of
inertia and resistance to investing
intensive R&D, the company is
in our solution was incredibly
coming out of the lab and bringing Figure: Worn Again has developed its recycling difficult. Everyone in the industry
its patented technology to market. technology process in the lab for six years.
was waiting for someone else to
Worn Again Technologies Current recycling method take the lead.”
patented process can separate,
At present, less than 1% of non- The catalyst for the investment
decontaminate and extract
wearable textiles are turned back The catalyst for the investment
polyester polymers and cellulose
into new textiles due to technical was fashion retailer H&M,
(from cotton) from non-reusable
and economic limitations of now joined by new partners
textiles, as well as plastic bottles
current recycling methods. including Sulzer Chemtech, one
and packaging, to go back
into new products as part of a According to the company, “It can of the world’s largest chemical
repeatable process. reprocess pure and blended cotton engineering companies; Mexico
and polyester textiles (together based Himes Corporation, a
The company, which was founded
representing 80% of all clothing garment manufacturer; Directex,
in 2005, explained that the
and textiles) meaning its solution a textiles producer, and Miroslava
innovation cracks the code not
offers the potential to increase the Duma’s Future Tech Lab.
only by being able to separate
recycling of raw materials in textiles The combined investment and
both polyester and cotton but also
exponentially from the current 1%, with support enables the optimization
by being able to produce two end
no price premium to manufacturers, phase of the technology in the lab
products that are both comparable
brands or the consumer.” as well as industrial trials, scaling
in quality and have the aim of being
competitive in price to virgin resources. Cambridge Ph.D. and Worn Again and designing of the industrial
Technologies Chief Scientific process with Sulzer Chemtech.
“The process saves energy and will
Officer, Dr. Adam Walker, said, “The These crucial steps will finalize
accelerate us towards a waste-free,
solution to the world’s plastics developments to the point at
circular resource world,” according
problem is not to stop using which the technology is complete
to the company.
plastic altogether,” and ready for commercialization.
“There are enough textiles and
Adam Walker explained that we Worn Again Technologies has
plastic bottles ‘above ground’ and in
have a solution to address the also partnered with Qvartz, a
circulation today to meet our annual
burgeoning need for recycling management consultancy firm
demand for raw materials to make
non-wearable textiles and plastics with Nordic roots and global
new clothing and textiles,” said Cyndi
and we have been clamoring to reach, to support its direction
Rhoades, CEO of this company.
get on with it for many years. setting, partnership development,
“With our dual polymer recycling and commercialization model.
“This investment, combined
technology, there will be no need
with the increasing geopolitical Worn Again Technologies is
to use virgin oil by-products to
awareness of the need for this currently enlisting local, national
make new polyester and the
technology, is enabling us to and global investors and strategic
industry will be able to radically
push through the scale-up partners who want to be part
decrease the amount of virgin
and validation work to reach of the rapid expansion plan as it
cotton going into clothing by
the market on an accelerated prepares for the first industrial
displacing it with new cellulose
timescale,” he added. demonstration plant to be
fibers recaptured from existing
launched in 2021.
clothing,” he further explained. The company was recently awarded

86 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


Fa c to r y Awa rd

16 apparel companies received national


export trophy for FY 2014-15
Desk Report

Recently the government has


handed over the ‘National Export
Trophy’ to 63 companies including
16 apparel companies’ for their
extraordinary performance in
export for fiscal 2014-15. Honorable
Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed
gave away gold, silver and
bronze trophies to the company’s
representatives on 15 July at a
program, organized by the Export
Promotion Bureau (EPB) in the
capital.
The award was given on different
Figure 1: Industry owners get the export award for the contribution of country’s economy
categories, including garment,
yarn, textile fabrics, home textile,
In woven products category, AKM In the spinning category, Kamal
terry towel, frozen foods, raw jute,
Knitwear Limited won gold, Rifat Yarn Limited won gold medal
jute goods, finished leather, leather
Garments won silver and Ananta where Badsha Textile Limited
goods, footwear, agricultural
Apparel Limited won the bronze won silver and Sufia Cotton Mills
products and agro-processed
medal. Limited won the bronze medal.
products.
While, in knitwear category, Fakir In the textile category, Envoy
Zaber and Zubair Fabrics Limited
Knitwear Limited won gold medal Textile won gold medal where
has won the gold trophy for the
followed by GMS Composite Paramount Textile Limited won
fourth consecutive year for their
Knitting Industry Limited silver and silver and Hamza Textile Limited
highest contributions to national
Square Fashion bronze. won the bronze medal.
exports in the fiscal year 2014-15.
Zaber and Zubaer Fabrics Limited
won gold medal followed and ACS
Company Name Category Export in million Textile silver in Home Specialized
Zaber and Zubair Fabrics Ltd. Gold 207.78 Textile.
AKM Knitwear Ltd. Gold 138.20 “Not only the export volumes
Fakir Knitwear Ltd. Gold 128.99 of the companies but also other
Envoy Textile Ltd. Gold 50.40 compliance issues related to
tax payment and environmental
Noman Terry Towels Ltd. Gold 44.03
sustainability were considered
Universal Jeans Ltd. Gold 195.16 while selecting the awardees,” said
Rifat Garments Ltd. Silver 126.97 Bijoy Bhattacharjee, Vice-chairman,
GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Silver 145.16 Export Promotion Bureau.
Ltd. “Business people play an important
Badsha Textiles Ltd Silver 83.54 role in the development of the
country’s economy. Government is
Paramount Textile Ltd Silver 36.59
firmly committed to provide all-out
ACS Textile Ltd Silver 89.75
cooperation for ensuring business-
Pacific Jeans Ltd. Silver 51.43 friendly environment,” Tofail
Ananta Apparels Ltd Bronze 92.62 Ahmed, Minister of Commerce.
Square Fashions Ltd. Bronze 111.26 “On the other hand, the
Hamza Textile Ltd. Bronze 22.04 government has taken necessary
steps to enlarge the export
Vintage Denim Studio Ltd. Bronze 43.07
earnings. We are providing policy
Figure 2: 16 apparel companies received national export trophy. Source: EPB support and cash incentives

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07 87


Fa c to r y Awa rd R e t a i l e r s To d a y

against the export,” added Tofail Director, Envoy Textile, a green added.
Ahmed factory in the textile sector.
“It is seen that a particular number
What makes it possible? “Quality of products and of companies are winning awards
maintaining commitment with for consecutive years. It indicates
Some of the winners showed
buyers to deliver products on time that they are maintaining quality
continuous growth in exports
is a key to achieve a sustainable in products and getting more
earnings and they bagged awards
growth in export earnings,” work orders. As a result, they are
for several years in a row. But
said Salam, also a Former becoming eligible for awards,”
the question is, how an exporter
President of Bangladesh Garment Former Advisor to caretaker
consistently performed well and
Manufacturers and Exporters government AB Mirza Azizul Islam
maintain a sustainable growth.
Association (BGMEA). said to the Textile Today.
Talking to Textile Today, some of
“In achieving such recognition, I The government should move
the winners unveiled their secrets
think, maintaining good practices for making the other companies
behind the success story.
of sustainable business and to capable for the award, which
“In maintaining a sustainable professionalism in marketing are would push the country’s exports
growth in the export market, there the key to success,” said Syed M earnings. At the same time, the
are no short-cut ways and one Tanvir, Director of Pacific Jeans, a manufacturers should go on value-
has to ensure best practices at winner of the silver trophy. While added products through research
every stage of production,” said consistency in products quality and innovation to enlarge export
Abdus Salam Murshedy, Managing and on-time delivery is a must, he earnings.

H&M profits shrink in first six


months of FY 2018
Desk Report

Due to rapid transformation of the signaled previously, it was going to become tougher to reach the full-
fashion retail sector profits at fast- be a tough first half-year. We went year guidance, but there is still half
fashion chain H&M went down by a into the second quarter carrying a year to go.”
third in the first six months of the too much stock and we still had Investments of H&M in online
financial year ending on 31st May some imbalances in the H&M platforms were “starting to have
2018. The Swedish retailer Hennes assortment – something that we results”, H&M said, “Total sales for
& Mauritz (H&M) said it in a press the quarter were not satisfactory,
release on 28 June. Chief Executive of H&M, which meant that inventory levels
According to the H&M, profits Karl-Johan Persson were still too high at the end of the
“after financial items” were SKr7.3 said, “As we signaled period. Overall, the first half of the
million (€702,000) over the period previously, it was going year was somewhat more challenging
to May 31st and SKr6 million in to be a tough first half- than we initially thought.”
the quarter between March and year. We went into the Nils Vinge, Head of investor
the end of May, while the groups’ second quarter carrying relations said, “The high level of
profit after tax for the half-year fell too much stock and we stock compared with revenues
by nearly a third to SKr6 million still had some imbalances was in large part due to a stagnant
from SKr8.4 million last year. in the H&M assortment top line. It had been a long time
Sales at the world’s second-largest – something that we are since the growth has been so slow
fashion retailer remained broadly gradually correcting.” in the business. Of course it’s a
flat over the period, though poor are gradually correcting.” concern. We work hard to get
trading at the start of the year was back to a leaner level.”
The company strikingly refused
helped by a 2 percent rise in the According to the press release,
to confirm its full-year guidance
second quarter. Pretax profit for H&M has been particularly
of a “somewhat better result” this
the quarter was also in line with vulnerable to changes in customer
year compared with 2017, leading
last years’ figure. habits and the boom in online
some to wonder if it had issued an
Chief Executive of H&M, Karl- implicit profit warning. shopping, given its reliance on
Johan Persson said, “As we opening large numbers of stores.
Persson further added, “It has

88 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


News & Analysis

Huge gap in workers’ and owners’


proposition for minimum wage
Both the worker’s and owners’ representatives have placed the proposals
separately to the RMG Wage Board.

Staff Correspondent

Apparel worker’s representative at a 10% yearly


the Minimum Wage Board for the increment on basic
garment industry has proposed a and 20% festive
Tk 12,020 monthly minimum wage bonus on basic,
for garments workers. On the for Bangla New
other hand, Bangladesh Garment year, Tk 500 for
Manufacturers and Exporters children education
Association (BGMEA), the expenses and
platform of owners, has proposed Tk 200 as an
Tk 6,360 as minimum wage. allowance for
As an owners’ representative workers to bear
Figure: Now RMG workers get a minimum wage of 5,300 washing cost of
BGMEA President Md Siddiqur Tk., which is not enough to fulfill their minimum standard of
Rahman and workers’ life. Credit: PA PHOTOS dresses.
representative Shamsun Nahar “As per the direction of the
Bhuiyan have submitted the Tk 7,050 has been shown as basic, Minimum Wage Board, we have
proposals to the Minimum Wage Tk 2,820 as house rent, Tk1,000 placed the proposals to the board.
Board after a meeting on Monday. and Tk 500 as medical and In preparing the proposals, a total
transport allowances, while Tk 650 of 11 issues have been taken into
“Both the worker’s and owners’
as food subsidy. consideration,” BGMEA President
representatives have placed
the proposals separately to the Meanwhile, BGMEA has proposed Md Siddiqur Rahman said.
board. After having a review on Tk 6,360 with a basic of Tk The focus was given on the
the proposals, the board will 3,600 of which Tk 1,440 (40% 0f inflation rate in the last few years,
recommend a minimum wage for basic) for house rent, Tk300 for said the BGMEA leader.
the workers as soon as possible,” medical allowance and Tk 240 for
I hope, the board will reach to
Minimum Wage Board, Chairman transportation and Tk780 as food
a consensus to recommend a
Syed Aminul Islam told the subsidy.
minimum wage addressing the
reporters after the meeting. In addition, the workers’ industry’s capacity and workers’
In the workers’ proposed amount, representative has also proposed needs, he added.
“It has been almost impossible to
Details of the proposal Proposal of worker’s Proposal of owners’ lead a life with family members
repre-sentative repre-sentative with the present salary structure
Basic 7,050 Tk 3,600 Tk as the prices of essential
commodities has increased,”
House rent 2,820 Tk 1,440 Tk (40% of basic)
Shamsun Nahar Bhuiyan.
Medical cost 1,000 Tk 300 Tk
Considering inflation rate, living
Transport allowances 500Tk 240 Tk
costs and other issues, we have
Food subsidy 650 Tk 780 Tk proposed Tk 12,020 as monthly
Washing cost of dresses 200 Tk 0 minimum wage, said Shamsun.
Children education expenses 500 Tk 0 In 2013, the government-formed
Yarely increment 10 % 0 wage board set Tk 5,300 as
Festive bonus 20% 0 minimum wage with a basic of
Tk 3,000 for entry-level garment
Total 12,020 Tk 6,360 Tk
workers.
Table: Worker’s and owners’ representative’s proposal for RMG workers.

90 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07


S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Price should be increased considering


huge investment in improving Safety
Bangladesh Sustainability Compact was reviewed in Brussels on 25 June at the fourth
high-level follow-up meeting
Akhi Akter

Price of apparel products should


be increased considering huge
investment made by apparel
manufacturers that helped
improved safety measures and
working environment.
Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed
demanded it while delivering
his speech at the fourth high-
level follow-up meeting of the
Sustainability Compact entitled
“Five Years after the Launch of
the Sustainability Compact: Taking
Stock and Staying Engaged” held
on 25 June 2018 in Brussels at Figure: Price of apparel products should be increased considering huge investment
made by apparel manufacturers to improved safety measures and working environment.
Albert Borschette Conference
Centre. At the event, progress made long-term commitments related to on its Sustainability Compact
under the Compact as well as what three inter-linked pillars: respect commitments or risk advancement
remains to be done were discussed. for labor rights; structural integrity in its trade status.
The Sustainability Compact aims of buildings and occupational Dr. Karim reminded it Tofail Ahmed
at bringing lasting improvements safety and health; and responsible during a meeting of the South
on labor rights and factory safety business conduct. Asia Trade Monitoring Committee
in the ready-made garment Within the framework of the within the European Parliament on
industry of Bangladesh. Since Compact, the ILO has undertaken 26 June. He uttered his concern
its establishment, the Compact to support and monitor mplementation that the Bangladesh government
partners have actively engaged of a number of specific commitments needs to make more progress on
to address labor, health and made by the parties. its compact obligations.
safety issues and to encourage
Bangladesh has reported Graduation from the Everything
responsible business conduct by
significant development achieved but Arms (EBA) trade status
all stakeholders engaged in the
in the fields of workplace safety to the Generalized Scheme of
ready-made garment (RMG) and
and compliance across its factories Preferences (GSP+) was not to be
knitwear industry in Bangladesh. As
at the meeting. Minister Tofail taken for granted, he added.
part of this process, regular follow-
said Bangladesh government has State Minister for Labor M Mujibul
up meetings have taken place.
amended its Labour Law and the Haque Chunnu, Commerce
In response to a tragic incident workers are enjoying their rights Secretary Shubhashish Bose,
of Rana Plaza in April 2013, the better than any time in the past. Federation of Bangladesh
European Union, the United
He said Bangladesh has taken Chambers of Commerce and
States, the International Labor
preparation to avail of GSP plus Industry (FBCCI) M Shafiul Islam
Organization (ILO) and the
benefit as Bangladesh is marching Mohiuddin, Bangladesh Garment
Government of Bangladesh signed
ahead towards a developed Manufacturers and Exporters
the “Compact for Continuous
country. Association (BGMEA) President M
Improvements in Labor Rights and
Member of the European Siddiqur Rahman and Bangladesh
Factory Safety in the Ready-Made
Parliament (MEP) and South Export Processing Zones Authority
Garment and Knitwear Industry
Asia Trade Monitoring (BEPZA) Executive Chairman
in Bangladesh”. The Government
Committee within the European Major General Mohd Habibur
of Canada subsequently joined in
Parliament Sajjad Karim said Rahman Khan, among others, were
January 2016.
that Bangladesh needs to deliver present at the fourth high-level
The Compact is built on short and follow-up meeting.

92 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 07

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