BUFFALO, WY KAYCEE, WY

On the road to Yellowstone

VISTA
BASE CAMP OF THE BIGHORNS
 Miles away from ordinary
and preserved forever
Step back in time to a world where you will feel miles from home.
Delight in fresh gourmet meals and fine wines and spirits.
Relax in that Old West feeling of more simple and quiet times.
Kids can be kids out here. Watch them disappear into fun and frolic with new friends.

Plan a night or weekend away from home or make a dinner reservation with friends and family.

Lunch served 12:30 p.m. - 1:15 p.m.

Dinner served 6:00 p.m. - 6:45 p.m.
Call our Ranch Office to make a reservation
(24-hour in advance reservations required)

HF Bar Ranch
307-684-2487 • www.hfbar.com
Saddlestring, Wyoming

Page 2 - 2018 Vista

 Located at the base of the Big Horn Mountains,
Winchester Steak House is sought to be the premiere
steakhouse in North-Eastern Wyoming.
Best known for their award winning steaks,
Winchesters has a great variety of seafood as well.
117 East Hwy. 16 • Buffalo • 684-8636
We invite you to join us and see what the rave is all about.

2018 Vista - Page 3

 What’s inside
Page 8 Page 29

From black The perfect day

to yellow in Kaycee
The places to hit on the way from the Black Kaycee is teeming with history, including the
Hills to Yellowstone and vice versa. Hole in the Wall where Butch Cassidy and his
gang used to hide out. Head south for a day.
Page 12

Family day Page 30

There’s lots to do with your family in tow,

Fish tales
including the Fish Hatchery and the largest Learn the fishing holes, and what’s biting,
outdoor pool in Wyoming. from a local.

Page 18 Page 34

Walk, bike, run Climbing

Miles of trails abound in and around Buffalo. Enjoy climbing?
Spend the day outside. Tensleep Canyon has you covered.

Page 24 Page 42

Take a hike Day trippin’

You can’t visit Johnson County without Explore the area with a drive.
spending some time in the Bighorns. You’ll be glad you did.
Cover photo courtesy of Tyrel Hulet - Sunset over Sheep Mountain Fire Lookout
Page 4 - 2018 Vista
Partnership Matters
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trusted partnerships.

It’s the experts that stand right beside you, doing the
job they are highly trained to do, keeping you safe.

At First Northern Bank of Wyoming, we know how

important it is that we are experts in all things
financial. You depend on us.

First Northern Bank of Wyoming. Because Partnership Matters.

Buffalo | Sheridan | Gillette | FNBOFWYO.COM

#1 in Listings and #1 in Sales

“Connecting people with property”

Cristy Kinghorn Dolly Belus Tristan Geis Wendy Greenough Kitty Merrill
Broker/owner Sales Associate Sales Associate Sales Associate Broker Associate
307-620-0037 307-751-8261 307-217-2331 307-217-1451 (307) 620-0644

294 North Main Street

Buffalo, Wyoming
307-684-9531
www.buffalorealtyllc.com

2018 Vista - Page 5

Welcome
Basecamp of the Bighorns

The story of Johnson County abounds

with adventure, history and wonder.

T he Bighorn
Mountains
are more or less a
continuous chain of
mountains that sweep in
a great arc from southern
Montana, around the
Bighorn Basin and then
westward. The highest
and most rugged part
of this arc lies west
of Buffalo, where the
Bighorn Mountains
rise abruptly above the
Powder River Basin
and culminates in a
spectacular summit of
Cloud Peak (elevation
13,666 feet).
In 1879, the new town
began to take shape
near Fort McKinney at
the base of the Bighorn
Mountains; the U.S.
government established
the fort to protect
travelers along the The winning name was submitted by a people would Every year, the Jim
nearby Bozeman Trail. young man named Will Hart. He hailed come to have a Gatchell Memorial
The new town was just off the post from Buffalo, New York, and had written large influence Museum hosts Living
premises, and soldiers needed a place the name “Buffalo” on his slip. on local
History Day. This
to spend their paychecks. Before long, year, the event is set
The years that followed the town’s culture as early for Saturday, June 20.
tradesmen and merchants started up beer settlement were as rough and tumble as immigrants
halls, saloons and a place or two to get the any Western. The Johnson County Cattle began to send
lesser necessities of life –
War of April 1892 pitted small settling back to Europe
like food. While the little settlement gained
ranchers against larger established for additional helpers.
prominence along the trail among white
ranchers in Powder River country Tourism would grow to become one
settlers, the location had been a well-
known stopping place for Northern Plains and culminated in a lengthy shootout of the top three economic activities in
Indians for centuries. between local ranchers, a band of hired the county, as thousands of tourists visit
Despite the abundance of North gunmen and sheriff’s posse. Eventually Johnson County each year to enjoy the
American bison that would have been the United States Cavalry, on orders of scenery, wildlife, recreation, Western
roaming the area at the time of Buffalo’s President Benjamin Harris, intervened to history and geographic features.
founding, Buffalo is in fact named after halt the violence. By the 1950s, change was afoot again,
Buffalo, New York. Ranching was the main economic force as the discovery of oil in the county
Local lore holds that one evening at at the turn of the century, and significant launched an economic boom-and-bust
the Occidental Hotel, the owner held a numbers of Basque immigrants moved to cycle that continues today.
meeting for the purpose of naming the Johnson County to try their luck at sheep Despite these changes, Buffalo and
little settlement. He instructed all present ranching. Sheep ranching attracted those Kaycee still reflect their agricultural
to submit a name on a slip of paper. The who were just getting started, as it took heritage. The relationship between
name pulled from the hat would become relatively little money to get a start in people and the environment continues to
the town’s name. the sheep business. Ultimately, Basque shape and define the community.
Page 6 - 2018 Vista
2018 Vista - Page 7
 Basecamp of the Bighorns

From the Black Hills to Yellowstone

Situated at the intersection of Interstates 90 and 25 and midway between two national treasures,
Buffalo is the perfect place to make camp.

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From South Dakota’s Black Hills
Start and end: Starts in Black Hills of
South Dakota ends in Buffalo, Wyoming
Key spots: Jewel Cave, Devils Tower, Buffalo
Trip length: 220 miles, about 4 hours of driving
Start your day by picking up the fixings for a picnic lunch
before you head out.
Kick off your tour with a stop at Jewel Cave National
Monument – on U.S. Highway 16, about 53 miles south
of Rapid City. Jewel Cave is the third-longest cave in
the world. With over 180 miles of surveyed and mapped
passages, Jewel Cave is an underground wilderness of fragile
formations and brilliant colors. Guided tours are required
to enter Jewel Cave and are offered several times daily. The
cave is a cool 49 degrees year round, so a jacket is a must, as
are good walking shoes.
Westward ho to Devil’s Tower National Monument – just
over one-and-a-half hours northwest. Travel via U.S. Highway
16 to Newcastle and then take Wyoming Highway 585 to
Sundance, U.S. Highway 14 out of Sundance to Wyoming 24,
which will take you to Devil’s Tower. Enjoy a hike around this
iconic national monument. An astounding geologic feature that
protrudes out of the rolling prairie surrounding the Black Hills,
this site is considered sacred to the Northern Plains Indians and
other tribes. The formation itself is also one of North America’s
premier crack climbing sites.
Return to I-90 and head west toward Buffalo. You’re just two
hours away from experiencing America’s true West!
On the road to Yellowstone
Start and end: Starts in Buffalo, ends in Cody
Key spots: Cody
Trip length: 170 miles, 3 hours of driving
U.S. Highway 16 West is the fastest and shortest route from
Buffalo to Cody and Yellowstone’s East Entrance. The drive
from Buffalo to Ten Sleep on U.S. 16 is also known as the
Cloud Peak Scenic Skyway. The scenic route will take you
through the southern section of the Bighorn National Forest,
over the Powder River Pass and down through the jaw-
droppingly gorgeous Ten Sleep Canyon. The
Skyway offers travelers the least grade over
the Bighorn Mountains and the opportunity to
take in the wonderful views of the Bighorns
and chances for wildlife viewing. Several
turnouts along the route provide a chance to
stretch your legs and enjoy the view.
Cody is notoriously busy in the summer
months, so make sure you have a hotel or
campground reservation secured. Put the
Buffalo Bill Center of the West at the top of
your list – often called the Smithsonian of the
West, it is not to be
missed! With four Yellowstone National
wings – fine art, Park was estab-
the Plains Indians, lished by Congress
and signed into law
Buffalo Bill and
on March 1, 1872,
firearms – there making it the first
is something for national park.
everyone in your family. Your admission is good for two days,
and yes, there are two days worth of exhibits to enjoy.
As the sun sets, Cody comes to life with nightly Western
re-enactments (Monday through Saturday) by the Cody
Gunfighters in front of the Irma Hotel. If that’s not enough
Western flavor for you, head on over to the Cody Nite
Rodeo. With nightly performances, the rodeo offers two
hours of real wild, western, family-friendly action. Come
early and meet the cowboys and bullfighters. Get your
picture taken on Mongo the bull.
The scenic route from
Buffalo to Yellowstone
Start and end: Starts in Buffalo, ends in Cody
Key spots: Thermopolis, Cody
Trip length: 207 miles,
3 hours, 40 minutes of driving
Just like your dad’s scenic routes – this one takes you a little
off the beaten path to unearth some of Wyoming’s hidden gems.
You’ll leave Buffalo on U.S. 16 West and travel to Ten Sleep
via the Cloud Peak Scenic Skyway.
Leave Ten Sleep via U.S. 16 to Worland and then U.S.
Highway 20 to Worland. Just a few miles before Thermopolis
is the town of Kirby, population 94. Though just a blip on the
map, Kirby is home to Wyoming Whiskey – our own bourbon
distiller. The distillery is open for tours, and if you’re over 21, a
post-tour bourbon tasting.
The next stop is Thermopolis, home to the world’s largest
natural hot springs and the Wyoming Dinosaur Center. Hot
Springs State Park is a full-service park open for day use at no
charge. The park offers a free bath house, where the 104-degree
water soothes away aches and pains. The park is also a
beautiful spot to get out and stretch your legs as you marvel at
water cascading down colorful terraces. After a dip, consider
picnicking in the park before heading over to the Wyoming
Dinosaur Center.
The self-guided tour will take you back in time to when
giant dinosaurs roamed the earth. The center also offers
afternoon digs in active sites – an activity kids are sure to
remember for a lifetime.
2018 Vista - Page 9
 Farm
to
FiberSheep once dotted the plains of
Wyoming. Their numbers were
strong, as was the wool industry,
but sheep numbers are dwindling
across the country. Over the past two
decades, the number of sheep in the
country has fallen by nearly half.
The goal in opening Mountain
Meadow Wool in 2007 was to
highlight the quality of Wyoming
wool. Mountain Meadow Wool
shines a light on the “farm to fiber”
movement, tracing wool back to its
roots.
Mountain Meadow Wool partners
with Wyoming sheep ranchers to
turn Wyoming wool into high-quality
yarn.
“Our goal was to help the ranchers
make a better profit on their wool
while showcasing the exceptionally
fine wool produced in the state of
Wyoming,” said Karen Hostetler,
MMW’s current owner.
Mountain Meadow Wool was
the first mill in the U.S. to create
a system to trace each product’s
origin back to where it was grown.
The process keeps the connection
Page 10 - 2018 Vista
between rancher and Since its inception
knitter intact, and it in 2007, the company
allows Wyoming wool has grown roughly 30
to develop its own percent every year.
brand identity. Hostetler
Mountain employs 10
Meadow “Our goal was to help the people, six of
Wool is the ranchers make a better profit on whom are full
largest full- their wool while showcasing the time.
service mill exceptionally fine wool produced Mountain
west of the in the state of Wyoming.” Meadow Wool
Mississippi. Karen Hostetler, is focusing
The operation MMW’s owner on companies
includes who want
washing and American
drying and spinning yarn for various made from start to finish. This is a
companies across the country. growing trend in the country and
Mountain Meadow Wool partners connects the farmer to the consumer.
with wool growers in Sheridan, Public tours are offered at
Johnson, Converse and Natrona 9 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Monday
counties in Wyoming and a few through Friday and at 1:30 p.m. on
growers in Montana.   Saturdays. If there is a large group or
That wool goes through various you can’t make the tour hours, call
steps at the mill, including washing the mill to check about scheduling
and drying and spinning to become another time. Mountain Meadow
custom-dyed yarn. The yarn is sold Wool has a small retail outlet as
to individual customers and to dyers, well and it is open Monday through
yarn shops and manufacturers of Friday, with additional hours added
knitted goods.   in the summer months.
2018 Vista - Page 11
 Johnson County
enjoys more than
200 days of sunshine
each year, which
makes it a great
place to travel with
the family.

Basecamp of the Bighorns

A family affair
Looking for a full day of family activities?
Johnson County and the surrounding area have you covered.
Start the day with breakfast in Buffalo. Options range
from a massive cinnamon roll to good old-fashioned
biscuits and gravy.
Before heading out, stop by one of the two grocery stores
in Buffalo to buy supplies for a picnic lunch. And don’t
forget the sunscreen.
Story Fish Hatchery
Pack your bags for a day away and head north to the
Story Fish Hatchery, located in the center of a ponderosa
pine forest. The hatchery is located about 30 minutes from
Buffalo.
It’s the oldest continually operating hatchery in the state.
The original buildings were constructed in 1909, according
to the Wyoming Game and Fish Department, the state agency
that operates the hatchery.
The hatchery includes a visitors center, restrooms, a
trough room where smaller fish and golden trout brood stock
are held, raceways that hold brown trout brood stock, and
settling ponds.
The hatchery is home to seven species, including the lake
trout, which is the largest fish at the hatchery.
Each year, the hatchery collects five to seven million eggs,
which are made available to other states in exchange for
fish that are not grown by the Game and Fish but are used to
stock waters across the state, according to the department.

Page 12 - 2018 Vista

 Fish food machines are located at the hatchery and take Make a splash
quarters. A perennial favorite for kids is watching the fish As the summer sun heats up, head back to Buffalo to
jump to catch the food. make a splash and cool off in the outdoor pool – the
Directions: largest free outdoor pool in Wyoming. Stretch out, relax
Story Fish Hatchery, 311R Fish Hatchery Road in Story. under the sun or shade and then take a plunge. Best of
From Buffalo, head north on Interstate 90 toward Sheridan. all – it’s free – and in the heart of town. With a swimming
Take Exit 44 toward Story (roughly 15 minutes from Buffalo). area that measures 396 feet by 264 feet, the pool holds 1
Turn left on U.S. Highway 87/Piney Creek Road. million gallons of water.
Take a left on Fish That’s no fish bowl.
Hatchery Road. The pool is located in Washington Park. Head back to
Don’t forget Follow Fish Hatchery Buffalo on Interstate 90, take exit 56A and take a right
~ Sunscreen Road, which winds onto North Main Street. Keep heading straight, passing
~ Hats through Story, until you through two stoplights and through the heart of downtown
~ Disc golf, which can reach the hatchery at the Buffalo. Take a right on West Angus, then a left on South
be purchased at The end of the road. Burritt and an immediate right on West Angus again.
Sports Lure in Buffalo, You’ll see the pool – it’s hard to miss.
66 South Main St. A round of disc golf The pool is set to open in early June and close in late
~ Water Within minutes of the August. The pool is open, weather permitting, from 11
hatchery in Story is a disc a.m. to 7 p.m. seven days a week.
~ Camera
golf course, located in Situated just two blocks west of Buffalo’s downtown,
~ Quarters to feed the fish Centennial Park. Washington Park also offers other activities for young and
~ Swimsuit The 12-hole, 42-par old alike. The park is actually a group of three parks that
~ Towel course is mostly flat and span both sides of Clear Creek. The parks feature picnic
~ Snacks moderately wooded. tables, barbecue grills, horseshoe-throwing pits, play
There’s a mix of long and equipment and access to Clear Creek Trail.
short holes – some are in
the open and some require careful maneuvering among trees Dinner in Buffalo
and a nearby creek. Relax with dinner in Buffalo. Just like breakfast, there is
The park is conveniently located on Fish Hatchery Road, a variety of dinner options, including Mexican, Chinese,
on the right-hand side before you reach the hatchery. The steakhouses, Italian, barbecue and more. Various locations
first hole is located next to the fence that separates the park in town offer outdoor seating, and there’s nothing better
and the road. than enjoying the Wyoming outdoors
in the summer. There’s plenty
Picnic in the park Cap off dinner with a stroll through for kids to do in
After a round of disc golf, unpack your lunch at the park town. The shops are bustling, the the area, include
and enjoy some time in the sun – or shade if you prefer. creek is babbling, and more often jumping into
Multiple picnic tables are located throughout the park. than not, tunes and laughter are the largest free
flowing from area businesses. outdoor pool in
There’s even some playground equipment for the youngsters.
the state.

2018 Vista - Page 13

 Plates by Margo Brown, photo credit: Tom Ferris

Plates by Margo Brown, photo credit: Tom Ferris

&
&
Margo’s
Margo’s Pottery
Fine
Pottery
Fine Crafts
Crafts Pottery • Glass • Jewelry • Furniture
Pottery • Glass • Jewelry • Furniture Painting by Kelsey McDonnell
Painting by Kelsey McDonnell
Leather bag by Alexis Drake
Plaque by ® Sticks
Glass by Laurie Thal, flowers by Patty Peterson

Leather bag by Alexis Drake

Plaque by ® Sticks
Glass by Laurie Thal, flowers by Patty Peterson

Pots by Claire Weissberg

Earrings by Kate Harness

Summer Exhibit
Pots by Claire Weissberg
Earrings by Kate Harness

“Four Years of Flowers”

Summer Exhibit
New work by Buffalo artist
Kelsey
“FourMcDonnell
Years of Flowers”
May 25 - August
New work by18, 2018artist
Buffalo
Kelsey McDonnell
One North Main Street • Buffalo, Wyoming 82834 • 307.684.9406
May 25 - August 18, 2018
www.MargosPottery.com • e-mail address: margospottery@wyoming.com • shipping available
One North Main Street • Buffalo, Wyoming 82834 • 307.684.9406
Page 14 - 2018 Vista

www.MargosPottery.com • e-mail address: margospottery@wyoming.com • shipping available

Margo’s combines
functionality, beauty
The pottery and household goods store
offers many treasures
Stepping into Margo’s Pottery and Fine Crafts in downtown
Buffalo is like walking into an art gallery that meets a
comfortable home.
That’s because Margo Brown, Buffalo artist and the shop’s
owner, said her goal is the same whether throwing clay or
choosing objects to market in her store: beauty and function.
“My whole career, including pottery and the store, has grown
out of my desire to have beautiful things that are functional,”
Brown says.
Walking into Margo’s Pottery and Fine Crafts in downtown
Buffalo, one is treated to a burst of colors and shapes, and to
the stimulating visual and tactile elements that come together in
each unique piece she crafts.
As a potter, she designs, throws, glazes and fires a soul into
the clay her hands so skillfully transform into art.
“I look at my work as an extension of my relationship with the
world, with nature, with people,” she says. “I want each pot that
I throw to feel really good when you hold it, to treat your eye
to a pleasing design and ... to be a part of your life, functional,
useful.”
To watch her work is to watch a creative transformation in
progress.
This year, Margo’s Pottery will also feature the exhibit
Four Years of Flowers, displaying paintings and jewelry
by local artist Kelsey McDonnell.
McDonnell’s flowers are an organic mix of bright colors
and at times dark and thought provoking, displaying the
versatility of the artist’s skill.
“I’m excited to share my second year of works in my
paintings ‘Four Years of Flowers’ on a local level,”
McDonnell said.
2018 Vista - Page 15
 Johnson County: By the numbers

8,268
Johnson County population
13
miles of trails
through Buffalo

13,166 feet
Elevation of Cloud Peak 208 1 million
Gallons of water

8
Average contained in the
number of sunny
4,646
Cattle per person free city pool
in Johnson County days per year

feet 20,000
Elevation 1.1 million acres Artifacts in the collection of
of Buffalo In the Bighorn National Forest
Jim Gatchell Memorial Museum

2 People per square mile

in Johnson County 72
Par at the Buffalo
4 Number of
country music
songs that
reference
Municipal Golf Course Kaycee
4,175 square miles
Size of Johnson County (roughly the size of
Delaware and Rhode Island combined) = 1 Great Destination
Page 16 - 2018 Vista
2018 Vista - Page 17
 Basecamp of the Bighorns

On the trail

Page 18 - 2018 Vista

 A
s Buffalo has grown, so has its trail system. The Clear
Creek Trail System now spans nearly 17 miles from
the town to the mountains.
As part of a road construction project, a red sidewalk marks
the path on the trail along Lobban Avenue and through town.
Now, visitors can bike, walk or run from their hotel rooms on
Hart Street straight through to the Bighorn Mountains.

Clear Creek Trail System —

Greenbelt Portion
This easy walk through town begins on the east side near
the Hampton Inn & Suites and meanders through town along
Clear Creek for about 4 miles before connecting with the
Mentock Trail. The trail is marked with signage that chronicles
the history of the area, including stories about an old mill, a
brewery and the short-lived Wyoming Railroad Co.
Beginning east of town, in less than a mile, the trail pops out
on Lobban Avenue, which is one block east of Main Street.
Follow the newly installed red sidewalk down Lobban and back
to Clear Creek to stay on the trail.
Enjoy a bite to eat and some live music before continuing
west on the trail system through the city parks.
Hike: Easy
Bike: Easy

Clear Creek Trail System —

Mentock Trail
The Mentock Trail can be accessed from the Turkey Lane
parking area. The trail follows Clear Creek west through
open meadows and deep forests. Popular with local runners
and bikers, the trail is primarily single-track. Hikers will be
treated to the babbling sounds of Clear Creek and the many
species of wildflowers on display in early summer. The
Mentock Trail ends in the Mosier Gulch picnic area.
Hike: Moderate
Bike: Moderate

Grouse Mountain Trail

The Grouse Mountain Trail is a great place for adventurers
seeking challenging hills, deep creek crossings and amazing
vistas. The trail was designed for mountain biking with other
non-motorized uses in mind. This trail connects the city’s trail
system to the Bighorn National Forest’s trail system. It features
open meadows, flower-covered slopes,
rustling aspen groves and deep pine Trails abound just
and spruce forests. minutes from down-
The steep grade of this trail should town Buffalo, many
not be underestimated. The trail gains of which offer ample
about 1,440 feet in elevation over 4 shade and cool
miles. Popular with mountain bikers temperatures.
– many of whom prefer to ride down
rather than up — the trail is entirely
single-track with lots of switchbacks.
The trailhead can be accessed 1 mile west of the Mosier
Gulch Picnic Area.
Hike: Difficult
Bike: Difficult

2018 Vista - Page 19

Page 20 - 2018 Vista
The historic Occidental hotel
Occidental. They included “Buffalo Bill” Cody; a young Teddy
Western hospitality at its best Roosevelt; Tom Horn; Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and
Calamity Jane.
A few years ago, National Geographic Traveler magazine In the middle of all that, Owen Wister showed up. At that
put the Occidental Hotel on its “Stay List” — a very exclusive point, he was just a young man traveling out West for his
list of the most enjoyable places that you can stay in North health. But he kept his eyes and ears open. And years later,
America. some of the cowboys and gunslingers Wister observed in
To compile their list, the magazine asked knowledgeable the Occidental Saloon found their way into the most famous
travelers to nominate their Western novel ever written, “The Virginian.”
favorite hotels, and more than The year after Wister published the novel, the
6,000 nominations were received.
From that list, only 129 hotels
For more Occidental started printing a slogan on its letter
paper: “Where the Virginian Got His Man.” And there
were finally chosen. information are some people who are sure the famous shoot-out
Buffalo’s Historic Occidental Hotel is
And the Occidental Hotel was open year-round. For reservations,
in “The Virginian” — the first “walk-down” in Western
one of them. call 684-0451. literature — occurred in front of the Occidental
This doesn’t really surprise The Virginian Restaurant is open Hotel.
us. The Occidental has had an five nights a week. Reservations Now, after a $1.6 million historic restoration that
outstanding reputation for suggested. began in 1997 and was completed in 2003, the
The Occidental Saloon is open seven Occidental is certainly deserving of inclusion on
excellent food and fine service nights a week with the famous Thurs-
for a very long time. day Jam and live music.
National Geographic’s “Stay List.”
As far back as 1880, in the rip- The Busy Bee Café, founded in 1927, The rooms are beautifully decorated with many
roaring days of early Wyoming, opens seven days a week at 7 a.m.,  antiques in evidence. The Grand Lobby is stunning
serving breakfast and lunch. Dinner with its copper-embossed ceiling. The 1908 saloon
the hotel was already known is served during the summer season looks exactly as it did on opening day, more than
as the place to stay in northern through 8 p.m. This is where Netflix’s 100 years ago.
Wyoming. Longmire gets his “Usual.”
The restaurant at the hotel is named The Virginian,
For travelers along the Visit the Occidental website at
www.occidentalwyoming.com. for obvious reasons. And the food is just terrific.
Bozeman Trail, the Occidental The beef steaks are thick and tender. The Wyoming-
was an oasis where a weary grown bison steaks almost melt in your mouth. The
pilgrim was sure to find a soft seafood is moist and delicious. And the wine list
bed and a friendly welcome. And in those early days, many contains many pleasant surprises.
of the most famous people in the Old West stopped by the Even Butch Cassidy never had it so good.
2018 Vista - Page 21
Page 22 - 2018 Vista
 Johnson County
Jim Gatchell
Memorial Museum
Coming events
Saturday, June 23 - 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Living History Day! Free museum admission, free
events and demonstrations on the lawn surrounding
the museum. Sing along with an old fashioned string
band, try your hand at tomahawk throwing, pan for
gold, or place your bets in a game of faro!
Refreshments and cookies served during the event.
Sunday, June 24 - 4 to 5 p.m.
Watch the Buffalo Soldiers of the American West
perform a Wild West Show set to period music.
At the Johnson County Fairgrounds, free to attend.

August 8-11 and 15-18

Echoes of the Past Cemetery Tours. Learn area
history through the portrayal of local “spirits” at this
annual program featuring lantern-led nighttime tours
through Willow Grove Cemetery. Tickets must be
purchased in advance, please contact the museum
for more information.

Special Exhibit
A Snapshot in Time: Fort McKinney Scrapbook. This
exhibit features
never before seen
images of nearby
Fort McKinney - the
frontier western
military post west
of Buffalo. Also
shown are items
from Fort McKin-
ney used during its heyday and portraits of selected
inhabitants of the fort.

The Johnson County

Jim Gatchell Memorial Museum
100 Fort Street, Buffalo, WY 82834
307-684-9331
www.jimgatchell.com
Open year-round
Summer hours: Monday - Saturday 9am - 5pm
Sunday - 12 - 5pm

2018 Vista - Page 23

 Basecamp of the Bighorns
Take a hike!
Breathe in and let it out – slowly. Then turn around and
take it all in. Mountains surround you. You’ve just gained
1,000 feet in elevation. Now you get to reap the rewards – an
untarnished view of the Bighorn Mountains. And there are
few settings that can match that view.
The best part? Most of those views can be reached within
an hour of leaving downtown Buffalo. Trails crisscross the
mountains and provide hiking opportunities for young and
old, families and couples, and weekend warriors.
Through town, into mountains as high as 13,000 feet, near
lakes and through forests, no two trails are alike.
Here are some of the most popular hiking trails:
Circle Park Trailhead – No. 182
Difficulty: Easy
Traffic: High
Trail distance: 1.0-8.9 miles
One of the most popular trails is Circle Park. This trailhead,
just 13 miles out of town, accesses several trails and is suitable
for horse trailers and dogs. The paths are easy to locate, and it’s
a quick journey to the trailhead.
Near the Cloud Peak Wilderness, fishing and other outdoor
activities are also popular. Lakes and ponds in the high
mountain altitude are home to trout and other aquatic life
that can make for fun family fishing trips or dinner later that
evening.
Note: Make sure to check with the Wyoming Fish and Game
Page 24 - 2018 Vista
Department for fishing instructions
and guidelines because some fish must
be tossed back.
Circle Park is friendly for families,
couples or groups and isn’t a difficult
trail for children. There are resting
areas for picnics, catching a ball or Frisbee and other play
activities.
Trash centers and vault toilets are found at several
locations. There is no camping at the trailhead.
Directions: Take U.S. Highway 16 West 13.4 miles to Forest
Service Road 20. Turn right at the sign and go 2.1 miles.
Ditch Trail – No. 160
Difficulty: Medium
Traffic: Low
Trail distance: 1.3 miles
Ditch Trail is used primarily by horseback riders.
The trail leads directly into the Cloud Peak Wilderness
and has camping sites nearby.
Beginning at FSR 394 and ending at FSR 396, the trail
offers numerous access points to ponds and streams for
fishing, swimming or letting an animal quench its thirst.
The trail is perfect for an afternoon hike, and tree cover
provides a comfortable experience on warm days. A dip in
the water can also help you cool off.
Directions: Starting from Buffalo, Trail No. 160 is
accessible via Highway 16 West, turning on School
House Park Road and continuing to the Hunter Trailhead.
You can come closer to the trailhead by driving the
unmaintained FSR 396, but parking at Hunter and hiking
up FSR 394 can extend the jaunt by about a mile.
 Willow Park Nordic Trail – No. 409
Difficulty: Easy-medium
Don’t forget the basics
Traffic: Medium Footwear
Trail distance: 27.0 miles According to representatives at The Sports Lure, mid-
While normally used for snowshoeing during the winter cut boots are the ideal footwear for day hikes because
season, the Willow Park Trail is also an incredible outdoor they provide support and are durable in tough terrain.
adventure for hikers in the summer. Regular athletic shoes can be suitable for shorter, less-
The trail was created by the Willow Park Ski Touring demanding hikes.
Club and was maintained by the club until 2005 when Body wear
the Powder Pass Nordic Ski Club took over maintenance One of the biggest hiking blunders is improperly
responsibilities. The club grooms about 13 miles of the dressing, whether overdressing or underdressing. With
trail during the winter, and the Bighorn National Forest Wyoming’s ever-changing conditions, it’s advisable to wear
crews and volunteers maintain its beauty during the light layers that can easily be taken off and put back on.
summer. Avoid cotton, which when wet loses insulation quality and
Elevations range from 8,300 feet to 9,000 feet, with hills takes a long time to dry. A good alternative is embracing
and ridges that can be enjoyed by beginners and experts. wool goods, which stay warm when wet, are antiseptic
The trail can be challenging at points, but treed areas and won’t burn like synthetic products, so they are good
and scenic viewing allow for easy breaks. Maps are around the campfire.
available at the trail entrance and posted at intersections. Basic essentials
Directions: The trail entrance is 43 miles west of Survival essentials include a map/compass (try the
Buffalo and 16 miles east of Ten Sleep along Highway 16. National Geographic map of the Bighorns and any 7.5-minute
quadrangles from the U.S. Geological Survey for extra detail,
Middle Tensleep Trail – No. 65 all available at The Sports Lure), sunscreen, headlamp/
Difficulty: Easy flashlight, first aid kit, food and water.
Traffic: Medium Checking in
Length: 2 miles round trip It’s also important to have a partner or to ensure that
This trail is great for all ages. It’s only 2 miles round someone knows where you are and when you plan to return.
trip and offers outstanding views for the entire hike. To When it comes to the outdoors, expect the best but prepare
accompany the views are fishing opportunities, spots for for the worst.
picnics and even swimming for those who dare the frigid
temperatures of the mountain water.
The trail follows Middle Tensleep Creek down to Tensleep
Falls. There are great holes for fishing and plenty of spots to
relax along the creek. The trail is well maintained and easy
to follow.
To reach the trail, travel on Highway 16 West for roughly
47 miles to reach Deer Haven Lodge. Follow FSR 27 for
8 miles, veering right at any forks. The trail starts on the
southern end of the lower parking at the road’s end.
The hike is sheltered by pine trees and offers plenty of
shade on hot summer days. The trail forks at one point,
allowing hikers to travel next to the creek and into an open
meadow, another great spot for fishing. The main trail stays
higher until you reach the falls. A couple of switchbacks
later and you are right next to the base of the waterfall and a
crystal clear pool.
For those hikers who want to travel
on, the trail continues to Deer Park,
where it meets up with Trail No. 67. Left: Alpine lakes are
Hikers can also return to the parking abundant in the Big-
lot and enjoy a short walk to West horns, offering lots of
Tensleep Lake. The parking lot is also great fishing holes.
the trailhead for hikes to reach Lost Right: Many of the
Twin Lakes, Lake Helen and Misty trails in the Bighorns
Moon Lake. Tensleep Falls is not are shaded and easy
in the Cloud Peak Wilderness, but to follow.
don’t forget to complete a wilderness
registration if you plan to travel to Lost
Twin Lakes or Lake Helen.
Camping is available at West
Tensleep Lake, Deer Park and Island
Park, all accessed from FSR 27.
2018 Vista - Page 25
 “The Honey Hole
21” H, 23”L 8” W

D. Michael Thomas
See the bronzes Laura M GaLLery siLver saGe GaLLery
of D. Michael Thomas Saratoga,Wyo. Dubois,WY
at these fine art 307-326-5063 307-455-3002
galleries and studios HitcHinG Post GaLLery Horizon Fine art
Buffalo, Wyo. Jackson,WY
307.684.9473 307-326-5063
d. MicHaeL tHoMas studio
By appointment BozeMan traiL GaLLery Windriver GaLLery
Show schedule available at 307-620-1230 Sheridan, Wyo. Aspen, Colo.
DMichaelThomas.com Buffalo, WY 307.672.3928 970.925.3919

Page 26 - 2018 Vista

Still life
in bronze
A stickler for details and a lover of Western ty of Wyoming,
history, D. Michael Thomas’ studio just east Thomas was
of Buffalo has shelves and shelves of books. studying animal
In his collection, local history, Western art and science, with
horsemanship books. Next to a small clay fig- aspirations of
ure sit 3D anatomical figures of a human and a attending veter-
horse – his two most common subjects. inary medicine
“I wish they’d make a female,” Thomas school. During
jokes. his junior year,
That’s because Thomas spent two-and-a-half a friend who
years creating his first cowgirl, a life-and-a- was studying art
half-sized piece commissioned by the Univer- happened to in-
sity of Wyoming that Thomas calls Darlin.’ troduce Thomas
“I was out there working on her every day,” to sculpting.
he said. “I’d come into the studio and say, “I thought,
‘How’s it going, Darlin’.’” ‘Man, that would
Though Darlin’ is his first cowgirl, she’s one be fun to try,’” Thomas said. “I lost myself,
of nearly 100 original bronzes that Thomas has just had a ball. When I was supposed to be
created in his 30-year career. studying to be a veterinarian, I spent too much
A native of Big Piney, Wyoming, Thomas playing in my clay.”
grew up around ranchers and cowboys. He has He spent over two decades playing in clay
fond memories of sitting in the background as on the side while he worked as a feed store
a child, listening to the old-time cowboys tell manager before he took the leap and dedicated Art Shows Calendar
tales of how the West was really won. himself to his craft full-time.
“Most of my subjects are cowboys I’ve “I would have kicked myself if I never Mt. Oyster Art Show
known over the years. Even though there was would have made that opportunity,” he said. Tucson, AZ
a vast difference in our ages, I always enjoyed If you ask, Thomas will tell you that his Nov. 17, 2018 - Jan. 12, 2019
their mannerisms and wit,” he said. favorite piece is always the one he’s currently
Because of his deep and abiding love of the working on. But the most satisfying was a Buffalo Bill Art Show
West and its people, it’s only natural that that life-and-a-half-sized sculpture of his friend, Cody, WY
love be expressed through singer-songwriter, Chris LeDoux. Sept. 20 - Sept. 22, 2018
his sculptures. “Chris LeDoux was Mr. Wyo- Past Awards:
“What inspired me was ming,” Thomas says. 2010 WELLS FARGO GOLD AWARD
probably the old-timers; About a year after LeDoux’s
they’d sit around the death in 2005, Thomas approached Cheyenne Frontier Days
dinner table and tell the LeDoux’s widow, Peggy, and his Cheyenne, WY
stories,” he said. children about creating a July 18 - Aug. 19, 2018
“‘Course all the “I thought, ‘Man, that would be bronze to honor his friend. Past Awards:
bunk houses had fun to try.’ I lost myself, “We talked about it, and 2010 MUSEUM PURCHASE AWARD
Charlie Russell just had a ball. When I was I thought the best thing we 2007 MUSEUM PURCHASE AWARD
prints and Will supposed to be studying to be a could do to honor him was
James. I didn’t when he won the world Festival of the arts
veterinarian, I spent Saratoga, WY
have a chance. (bareback rodeo title) in
too much playing in my clay.” June 29 - July 1, 2018
If you had any 1976 on a horse called
artistic abilities D. Michael Thomas Stormy Weather. I wanted
at all, that was it to be life-and-a-quarter,
exactly the genre but I miscalculated, and
you were going to go into. It was the old it ended up a little more than life-and-a-half,”
guys.” Thomas said.
Though his work speaks volumes about his The large sculpture, which stands over 13
talent – he is represented in galleries through- feet tall, was installed in Kaycee in 2010.
out the West and his pieces are in private col- “I know he’s laughing up there, saying
lections around the world - Thomas did not set ‘I always wanted to be larger-than-life,’”
out to be an artist. As a student at the Universi- Thomas said.
2018 Vista - Page 27
 Kaycee Area Chamber of Commerce
P.O. Box 147, Kaycee, WY 82639 • (307) 738-2444
kayceechamber@rtconnect.net
Check out this year’s schedule of events on our website

Hole in the Wall Bar

Drive up window
Great food, Great People
Cold beer • Spirits
Game room
4 Large Screen TV’s
502 Nolan Ave.
Kaycee, WY 82639 “Come as you are”
307-738-2374
Like us on Facebook

KC RV Park
42 Mayoworth Rd Kaycee, Wy. 82639
Rusty Spur
(Exit 254 Interstate 25)
(307) 738-2233
Saddle, tack, Chris LeDoux merchandise
Custom leather work and more!
354 Nolan Ave. Kaycee, WY 82639 • 307-738-2608
chrisledoux.com

Invasion Bar Hawk Creek

& Restaurant
343 Nolan Ave Kaycee, Wyoming
307-738-2211
Taxidermy
Home style food • Big screen TV
Pool table Tim Peterson
349 Nolan Ave., Kaycee, WY
“Come as a stranger, leave as a friend” 320-220-3107 | 307-738-2201

~ Hardware
~ Gifts
Kaycee Outpost
~ Animal Feed • Gas • Gifts • Goodies
~ Groceries • Real fruit smoothies
~ Espresso • Gourmet sandwiches
• Locally made gifts
• Snacks, drinks and fuel
307-738-2500 • 102 Park Ave., Kaycee, Wyoming 102 Nolan Ave., Kaycee, WY 82639 • 307-738-2624

Tom’s Kaycee Community Voice

Tire & “The best local news around”

Repair
General Auto Repair • Transmission Flush Published: 2nd and 4th Tuesdays
Window Chip Repair •Truck Tires Subscriptions: $24 per year (24 Issues)
Tire Sales • Multiple Tire Brands kcvoice@rtconnect.net
210 Center Street • Kaycee WY • 307-738-2288
661 Nolan Ave. • 307-738-2626
Page 28 - 2018 Vista
Experience
the Old West
While you’re here, head down to Kaycee and
southern Johnson County and experience an
authentic Old West town.
Kaycee offers a little bit of everything. From
nationally renowned fly fishing, hiking and
camping to down-to-earth Western hospitality
and friendliness, southern Johnson County is a
rare glimpse into true Western living.
Steeped in history
Kaycee’s first homesteader was John Nolan,
whose ranch settled along the Powder River.
The brand he used was KC. During the
so-called cattlemen’s invasion of 1892, the
Nolan Ranch was the scene of one of the most
cowardly and brutal murders in the history of the
West.
On April 10, 1892, the “cattlemen,” along with lawman-
turned-hired-gunman Tom Horn, burned Nolan’s ranch
house and murdered Nate Champion and Nick Ray, who
were leasing the ranch from Nolan. This was the prelude
to the Johnson County Cattle Wars, which was part of a
plot to scare the smaller ranchers into leaving Wyoming.
The area also is home to some of the most iconic sites
of the Old West. Among the most notable is the so-called
Hole in the Wall, where bandits such as Butch Cassidy
and the Sundance Kid hid from the law between heists.
Another nearby site is the Dull Knife Battlefield on the
eastern slopes of the Bighorn Mountains, where the U.S.
Fourth Cavalry under Gen. Ranald S. Mackenzie raided
and destroyed a winter encampment of the Cheyenne
people on Nov. 25, 1876.
West of town about 20 miles is the Outlaw Cave
Recreation Area, which contains a public campground,
a Native American rock shelter with pictographs and the
famous “Outlaw Cave.” The infamous “Hole-in-the-Wall”
Country and Outlaw Cave are where legendary outlaws
Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, the Wild Bunch, Jesse
James and the Hole-in-the-Wall gang all hid out.
Hoofprints of the Past Museum
Founded more than 20 years ago, the Hoofprints of the
Past Museum preserves the area’s unique cultural heritage.
The museum houses artifacts and information about local
famous outlaws, the Johnson County Cattle War, Native
Americans, early pioneers and nearby Fort Reno and the
Bozeman Trail. For more information about the museum,
call 307-738-2381.
Fishing, hiking and camping – oh my!
Resting on the banks of the Powder River, Kaycee
is home to some of the nation’s best blue-ribbon
trout fly fishing.
One of the locals’ favorite If you are looking for a rodeo,
fly-fishing locations is the Harold Jarrard Park in Kaycee
Middle Fork of the Powder is the place to be.
River Recreation Area,
about 20 miles southwest of Kaycee. High-clearance
vehicles are recommended to get to the area, which is
accessed from Kaycee by driving 15 miles on Interstate
90 to Barnum, then 5 miles south on the Bureau of Land
Management’s Bar C Road, which turns into BLM
Outlaw Cave Road.
Camping and hiking opportunities also abound in the
Kaycee area. One of the trails where adventurous outdoor
lovers can try their skill is the Gardner Mountain Foot and
Horse Trail. Accessed via Mayoworth-Slip Road north
of Kaycee, the 7-mile trail ambles through a mountain
meadow and follows a ridgeline overlooking the Gardner
Mountain Wilderness Study Area.
Perhaps the most popular trail is the Hole-in-the-Wall
Foot Trail. About 40 miles southwest of Kaycee, the 2.5-
mile trail takes hikers through primitive country with no
services past the Hole in the Wall used by Butch Cassidy
and the Sundance Kid. The BLM advises that the trail is
best suited for experienced hikers and that high-clearance
vehicles may be needed on some portions of the primitive
access roads.
Sights and bites
If your adventures get too tiresome, you can always
head on back to Kaycee for a bite to eat, then relax in
Chris LeDoux Memorial Park or head to a rodeo at
Harold Jarrard Park.
Rodeo and country music fans will appreciate the
Chris LeDoux Memorial Park in the center of Kaycee,
which includes a 1½-times-life-size bronze sculpture of
the famed rodeo cowboy and country music artist.
For more information on Kaycee, visit the Chamber of
Commerce website at www.kayceewyoming.org or call
307-738-2444.
2018 Vista - Page 29

A local angler’s
fly-fishing guide
As told by Travis Lawrence
First of all, before I go out, it’s always good
to stop into The Sports Lure on Main Street.
It’s the local gear shop, and they’re familiar
with all the angler news you need.
Timing and location
Where I fish all depends on the time
of year. I’m purely a fly-fisherman. I can’t
really pick a favorite spot. I have them, but
it depends on other factors, and I really like
to get around the area. I’ve been at it long
enough that I know where to go, depending
on the time of year.
But to help out people who may be
unfamiliar, I start fishing lower Piney Creek
or lower Clear Creek as soon as the ice comes
off. You can’t fish them in late summer or
fall. The water is slow, and it heats up. The
fish kind of bury. As the summer heats up,
Page 30 - 2018 Vista
Where to fish
Location: Lake DeSmet
What’s in it? Rainbows, browns, yellow perch, rock
bass, carp, lake trout and walleyes.
What’s it like? Lake DeSmet is an extremely
popular regional fishing hole, stocked with rainbows
and cutthroats, and supports a natural population
of brown trout. The large lake formed when a coal
seam fire burned the coal from a large subterranean
deposit, into which the soil above fell. Now the lake
is rimmed with walking trails, boat ramps, swimming,
fishing and picnic areas. Those seeking somewhere
to stay overnight can camp at one of the lake’s 60
overnight camping spots, which can be rented for
$10 each, or $15 for spots with electricity. Camping
spots are first-come, first serve.
How to get there: Drive north on I-90 from Buffalo
for 8.3 miles to exit 47. Multiple roads lead to the
lake’s edge with plenty of fishing opportunities.
Location: Tie Hack reservoir
What’s in it? Rainbows, brookies, some brown.
What’s it like? Tie Hack reservoir is perhaps the
most developed alpine lake in the area. With road
access and ample parking and camping spots, it’s
the ideal place for a high-altitude (7,900 feet) family
getaway or fishing retreat when a multi-day pack is
out of the question. Fish from the shaded banks or
rocky perches surrounding the lake, or bring a canoe
or kayak for a peaceful and fruitful fishing experience.
How to get there: Drive west on U.S. Highway 16 for
15 miles and look for signs for the reservoir, which
exit on the left-hand side.
Location: Healy Reservoir
What’s in it? Browns and rainbow trout, largemouth
bass, tiger muskies
What’s it like? Though Healy Reservoir is much
smaller than Lake DeSmet, it is similar in that it’s a
large open body of water with public boat ramps and
great fishing. What sets Healy apart is the presence
of largemouth bass and tiger muskie, which have
reached an incredible size since their introduction in
2012. It’s also just 7.5 miles from downtown Buffalo.
How to get there: Drive east on U.S. Highway 16
for 7 miles then turn left at signs for Healy Reservoir.
Turnouts and boat ramps available along the right-
hand side.
you need to move upstream.
If you go just on Clear Creek, you’re always gonna catch a
fish or two.
There are hundreds of factors that go into where and when.
Head outdoors!
~ Now open in Buffalo ~ RV replacement parts
The best time to fish in the wintertime is 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. But ~ Camping supplies and accessories ~ Fully serviced RV units
once the weather heats up, obviously the only time to fish is
early in the morning or late in the day. Stop in to see our entire inventory
You can travel to bigger rivers like the Bighorn near
Thermopolis, which is about three hours away to the southwest or visit www.daltons-rv.com
or the Bighorn River up by Fort Smith, which is across the
border in Montana.
Remember, in the smaller-pocket water like Clear Creek,
you’re basically dabbing the fly in the water. When you’re
fishing a bigger river, you have to cast farther and you may be
using a 5-8 weight rod.

Superstition
It sounds funny, but if it is a full moon, the fish feed through
the evening. I don’t know if there is any truth to this, but the
barometric pressure dictates what level of the river they will be
swimming at.
It’s a skill to find that window. Are they going to be on the
surface or bouncing off the bottom?

Flies 173 U.S. Highway 16

Flies are trial and error. Just make sure you stop by the Buffalo, WY
Sports Lure and know what the hot fly is for the season. You 2744 Heartland Drive
can use dry flies that float on the water or submergers that are Exit 25, Off I-90 • Sheridan, WY
wet and float on the surface right below the meniscus layer.
And there are nymphs, which are weighted to go down lower. 673-5553 or 1-877-519-7733
There’s streamers, leeches, wooly boogers, crawdads — all
patterns that represent bugs, basically.

Fish
I fish east of town and work my way up into the mountains.
Open 7 days a week
Now I’m predominately a trout fisherman. I don’t really fish
for a lot of other species. I go for rainbow, brown, cutthroat
and whitefish, sometimes, a little catfish. Which fish I’m going
for, where I fish in the stream, it depends on whether I’m
fishing a lower order or upper order.
In the mountains, it’s a little cooler, trees shade the stream
and rocks that the stream flows over. Those rocks create
oxygen bubbles that some fish like.
Brook trout and rainbow trout require more oxygen, so if
you’re looking for those you go for the cooler waters. You find
them upstream.
On the other hand, a brown trout doesn’t require much
oxygen so you find the browns downstream more.
After a good day of summer fishing, I usually head back to
307-684-5555 • Conference Center 307-684-1506
town, to Clear Creek Brewery, the Occidental or Up in Smoke
to relax with a drink. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Travis is a native of Buffalo and a lender with First Northern Full menu available | Full bar
Bank. He, his wife and two young children enjoy all that the 19 draft beers and daily specials
Bighorns have to offer.

675 East Hart Street, Buffalo

2018 Vista - Page 31
 A musical
smorgasbord
Frank Solivan and
Dirty Kitchen are the
headliners for this
year’s Bighorn Moun-
tain Festival.

won multiple awards

since its inception.
They were named the
International Bluegrass
Music Association’s
Instrumental Group of
the Year in 2014 and
received a Grammy
nomination for Best
Bluegrass Album in
2015.
Solivan theorized that
the band’s popularity
could be due to how
Frank Solivan and Dirty Kitchen to they avoid many bluegrass conventions.
“I don’t really think of us as a bluegrass band,” Solivan said.
headline Big Horn Mountain Festival “I don’t like labels – I just like to make good music. And good
Frank Solivan is something of a cook. His favorite utensil is music comes from all sorts of different sources – bluegrass and
the mandolin. country and
“When I’m in the kitchen, I love to experiment with flavors blues and rock.
and foods,” Solivan said. “That’s what I try to do on the stage Our hope is
When you go:
as well. We’re a bluegrass band, but we also have flavors of What: The 14th annual
that there will
jazz and rock and Brazilian music and a dozen other types of Big Horn Mountain Festival
be something
music. This isn’t just run-of-the-mill bluegrass. We hope that it When: July 20-22
for everybody
is something exciting and flavorful and unique.” Where: Johnson County Fairgrounds
at one of our
Solivan and his band – aptly titled Dirty Kitchen – will be one Cost: Tickets are available online or can
shows – even
of the performers at the 14th be purchased at the Buffalo Chamber of
annual Big Horn Mountain those who
Commerce and the Sports Lure in Buffalo; in
The Lineup Festival. Event co-organizer think they
Sheridan at CB Music; and in Gillette at Music
Frank Solivan and Dirty Kitchen Lynn Young said he is excited don’t like
Service Center of Gillette.
Bryan Bowers to welcome the band to bluegrass.”
More information: www.bighornfestival.com
The Two Tracks Buffalo for the first time. Solivan said
High Country Cowboys “They’re a really hot band, he is excited
Prairie Wildfire and they have a unique and to bring his
upbeat sound,” Young said. unique musical feast to Wyoming residents.
Jeff Troxel and Brian Wicklund
“They should put on a great “There is something special about live music,” Solivan said.
Jalan Crossland performance.” “There is a special bond that you form with the listener that
Solivan said his love of can’t be replicated anywhere else. Live music allows for the
music dates back to his
exchange of happy vibes, and I would certainly encourage
childhood. Both of his parents were musicians as were the
majority of his extended family. people to come out and have that exchange with us and with all
“In a way, going to family gatherings was like going to a of the artists that are performing this year.”
music festival,” Solivan said. “I knew from a young age that I
wanted to perform. Music is not just what I do. It’s who I am.” Don’t forget
In 2009, Solivan formed his band Dirty Kitchen. The band has Sunscreen • Lawn chair • Blankets • Water • Sunhat
Page 32 - 2018 Vista
It’s a KICK!

14th Annual
BIG HORN MOUNTAIN
FESTIVAL
July 20, 21 and 22, 2018
Johnson County Fairgrounds
Buffalo, Wyoming
Tickets available online:
www.bighornmountainfestival.com

Acoustic, Americana,
Folk, Old-Timey,
Bluegrass and
Traditional Music

201 8 Vista - Page 33

 Rock
Basecamp of the Bighorns

and ropes

Page 34 - 2018 Vista

 Left: Rock climbers
have been coming to
the Bighorns in search
of rock faces they
can ascend since the
1980s.

Right: Ten Sleep

Canyon sports over
900 routes bolted into
Bighorn Dolomite.

T
hey come in droves.
Clad in ropes and laden with
packs, climbers young and
old from the surrounding states and
Canada make the trip out to Ten Sleep
Canyon for some of the finest sport
climbing in America. Over 900 routes
are bolted into Bighorn Dolomite
along 19 miles of red canyon walls
lining U.S. Highway 16.
Since the 1980s, rock climbers
have been poking around the region,
searching for ways to explore the
rock faces that come cresting out of the Bighorns or line its
precipitous drops, bolting the routes as they went.
Those who enjoy small holds and mid-difficulty vertical
climbing will find themselves in heaven, especially if
they have a taste for red-hot climbing guides and far-flung
destinations. Climbers will enjoy a litany of humorous and
irreverently named routes, ranging from themes both poetic –­­­
like the 5.12 classic Happiness in Slavery – to more limerick,
like “Astro Glide” – rated at 14b and considered the most
difficult in the canyon, according to Aaron Huey’s 2016 Punk
Rock Climbing Guide to Ten Sleep Canyon.
In 1999, locals held the first Ten Sleep Climbing Festival
over the Fourth of July weekend. The festival has since
become an annual event.
During the summer, it’s impossible to drive through the
canyon without seeing turnouts swollen with station wagons
and vans, and silhouettes of climbers clinging to the walls.
Last year’s festival drew large crowds to Ten Sleep Brewery
where reps from gear manufacturers and organizations held
contests until nightfall and regional musician Jalan Crossland
played under fireworks past midnight.
Huey’s 2016 guidebook, fully titled “$25 Punk-Rock Dirt-
Bag PBR-Drinking Van-Living Scab-Picking Gypsy-Trash
Zerox-Making Ramen-Eating Guide to Ten Sleep Canyon,”
which he donated to the Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition to help
fund maintenance of the canyon, details routes with accurate
and colorful commentary, including a symbolic grading
system ranging from acid tab art to American flags.
The Punk Rock guide can only be purchased online
through the Climbers’ Coalition or through stores in Ten
Sleep Canyon, and though it does provide a lot of bang for
its buck, the much-cheaper Punk Rock guide drops some
of the art-object aspects of Huey’s previous guides. Also,
some information – like the acid tabs grading system –
recommends jumping to pages that no longer correspond.
Still, the functionality of the book remains, and so does its
opening passage.
“In the beginning there were no bolts and the earth was
dark. On the eighth day God created Bighorn Dolomite
and expansion bolts, and the heavens rejoiced!”
With a published guide and a steady flow of climbers
coming from all over the world to scale the dolomite
crags, the secret is out on Ten Sleep Canyon. But that
doesn’t mean it’s not worth checking out, especially in
summer when temperatures soar at other climbing havens
and large swaths of Ten Sleep Canyon remain cool,
shaded and climbable.

2018 Vista - Page 35

Pure Wyoming
More than a decade ago, when Craig Johnson
started to write what would become “The Cold
Dish,” the first of his acclaimed Longmire murder-
mystery series, he was more or less out of options.
“I ran out of excuses,” he said. “That’s No. 1.
I’m of the belief that everybody has a writer in
them, but they also have an editor that strangles
the writer to death before the writer gets anything
down on paper.”
“The Cold Dish” was Johnson’s big break, and
since then, the series – which is about a tough-as-
nails sheriff named Walt Longmire, who upholds
the law in fictional Absaroka County, Wyoming
– is a mainstay on the New York Times best-seller
list. The series is more than a dozen books strong
and has been translated into numerous languages;
Johnson’s contemporary Western stories are read the
world over.
In 2012, “Longmire,” the TV series, debuted on
A&E as a crime drama, and it became the highest-
rated scripted show in the network’s history. In
2015, the drama moved to Netflix, where its sixth
and final season aired in 2017.

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Page 36 - 2018 Vista

 It’s made Johnson a popular figure not only in the West but also
all over the world. He estimates that he spends about five months a
year on the road signing and promoting his books and serving as a
creative consultant on the TV show.
Since the TV show debuted, his celebrity has risen. But one
thing you should know about Craig Johnson is this: No matter
how many viewers his show has or how many people buy his
books, he’s the same guy who built his ranch in Ucross with his
own hands. He’ll always be the smiling guy in the cowboy hat, no
matter how many people decorate their cars with “Longmire for
Sheriff” stickers.
Despite going Hollywood, Craig Johnson is still pure Wyoming.
‘The Names Have Been Changed To Protect The Guilty’
When Johnson sat down to start working on “The Cold Dish,”
his biggest challenge was to find a story that was strong enough to an offer for a package deal came from Warner Brothers. Johnson
play out over an entire novel. To find one, Johnson simply drew on was able to meet with the show’s executive producers – such as
what he knew – Johnson County and Buffalo.
The locations where his Longmire stories play out are fictional,
but Durant and Absaroka County are Buffalo and Johnson County.
Johnson said the area
was the perfect setting
for Longmire and his
crew.
Longmire Days
“This little town just Longmire Days is scheduled for Aug. 10-12.
gets better and better According to the Buffalo Chamber of Commerce,
every year, so for me several of the actors, along with Craig Johnson
it was an opportunity himself, will be in attending this year.
to take advantage of
the town that I live
the closest to,” he
said. “It just seemed so perfect, with a few small adjustments.
I wanted it to be in Johnson County, so it had to be Buffalo. It’s
so picturesque. It’s right there at the base of the Bighorns. The
architecture is so cool.”
Though Johnson perfectly describes Buffalo’s Main Street
and areas of Johnson County in his novels, there had to be some
changes for the sake of the story. He said there had to be some
room for him to build a story, and he didn’t want to be hampered
by existing history or boundaries.
As hard as it is to imagine, Johnson said he envisioned Durant
as smaller than Buffalo, with no city police force and just a county
sheriff.
“Buffalo is big,” Johnson said. “It’s a pretty good-sized little
town. It has a police department. I thought I had to scale Durant
back down to the size of where Walt and his sheriff’s department
would be the only law enforcement in Absaroka County. In terms
of population, the actual population of Durant would actually
be smaller than Lusk (Wyoming) in
comparison with Buffalo.” Left: Local author
But Johnson wanted to tell “a story that is Craig Johnson signs a
going to be exemplary of the contemporary hat during Longmire
American West, especially our part of Days.
Wyoming.” Buffalo was perfect for that, but
Right: Adam Bartley,
as Johnson said, “The names were changed who plays “The Ferg”
to protect the guilty.” on “Longmire,” greets
Johnson’s novels had gained their guests at Longmire
share of acclaim before the TV show Days.
debuted, including a slew of awards from
the Mountain and Plains Independent
Booksellers, the Western Writers of America and Publisher’s
Weekly, but the TV show took things to the next level.
He got his opportunity when an agent from Creative Artists
Agency walked into his literary agent’s office in New York
City. The CAA is an agency that matches promising stories and
characters with producers and studios, and the CAA agent asked
whether Johnson’s agent had any strong characters. Johnson’s
agent gave her a copy of “The Cold Dish” and refused to give her
anything else until she read it.
Having their work turned into a TV show or movie is the dream
of any writer, but Johnson was able to resist at first.
“I didn’t want to be ‘optioned,’” he said. “I wanted to retain
rights and make sure something happened.”
Johnson was holding out for a package deal, which would allow
him to be hands-on with the development of the product. It took
some time, and he turned down several offers from what he called
‘big-name actors and producers’ until he got his chance. Finally,
Greer Sheppard, who was known for his work on “The Closer”
and “Nip/Tuck” – before signing away the rights.
“These producers, they tend to have the attention span of a
gerbil with a thyroid problem,” he said of producers in
general. “They want to do this project, and they want
to do that project. With a package deal, it would work
out a lot better and I’d get to meet the people and kind
of gauge their interest and knowledge, not only of the
books but of Wyoming and sheriffing and the Northern
Cheyenne and all these things.”
Working with the production team was a sticking
point for Johnson. He now holds the title of executive
creative consultant for the show.
With his whirlwind book-signing tours, “Longmire”
shooting schedule and, of course, beers with Lou Diamond
Phillips, it would seemingly be easy for Johnson to start living the
high life like so many other people in the entertainment industry,
but he hasn’t.
“My life is pretty much the same as it was 25 years ago,” he
said. “I built my ranch – I poured my concrete, I stacked my logs.
I did all this stiff, and I still do all that kind of work today. It’s
kind of a good balance to have between the cerebral world of
writing books and the physical labor of having a ranch. For me,
that’s one of the joys of it.”
Through it all, he’s still the same guy who lives on the
northernmost end of Johnson County.
And for Craig Johnson, that’s living the dream.
2018 Vista - Page 37
 On the road to Yellowstone
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Page 38 - 2018 Vista
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2018 Vista - Page 39

Basques in Buffalo
In the many decades since the first Basque
resident came to Johnson County, Basque culture
has slowly but surely seeped into many aspects of
daily life in Buffalo.
The Big Horn Basque Club educates local
residents about the Basque culture. A local coffee
shop sells Basque baked goods. A few of the
oldest Basque residents in town can still speak
their native language and have fond memories of
“the old country.”
Page 40 - 2018 Vista
The Basque Country is
located in the
Pyrenees, which
straddle the border
between France and
Spain.
But it wasn’t always this
way, according to local Basque
historian David Romtvedt. The
story of the Basque culture
in Buffalo begins with one
man, alone in a world that was
completely foreign to him.
“The first Basque resident in Johnson County
was Jean Esponda,” Romtvedt said. “He came here
in the winter of 1902 and, naturally, he was quite
surprised. Wyoming wasn’t like anywhere he had
been before.”
Esponda, like many Basque emigrants during the
late 19th and early 20th centuries, first came to the
 An important
part of the
Basque culture
is dancing. The
local Big Horn
Basque club
has its own
dance group
that performs
in the area
throughout
the year.

“Many of
the youngest
descendants of
the immigrants
haven’t been
United States in search of economic “They were a cornerstone of this taught the
opportunities. Originally, Esponda community’s economy for many Basque language,” Romtvedt said.
migrated to California in the hopes of years,” Romtvedt said. “Johnson “That’s why events like NABO are so
earning some quick money so he could County had the world’s largest wool important – they introduce these young
return to his homeland in southwestern industry up through World War II, people to their culture, their heritage and
France along the Pyrenees Mountains. thanks mainly to these their traditions.”
According to Romtvedt, Esponda immigrants. Johnson According to Romtvedt,
did return home after a decade in County has always had the younger generation
California, but found that he had a vibrant agricultural isn’t the only one that can
become “Americanized” during his economy, and these men benefit from experiences
time away and now felt alienated from and women certainly like the North American
his community. He returned to the U.S., played a large Basque
where he met a rancher who suggested part in that.” “The first Basque resident in Organization
that he take up sheep ranching in Ranching Johnson County was convention,
Johnson County. was the main Jean Esponda. He came here which is a yearly
Esponda did just that and soon his economic force in the winter of 1902 and, conference
friends and family followed suit. at the turn of naturally, he was quite surprised. attended by
“Really, the Basque population in the century Wyoming wasn’t like anywhere members of
Buffalo grew as large as it is today and significant he had been before.” 44 Basque
through word of mouth,” Romtvedt numbers
David Romtvedt organizations
said. “The first Basque settlers here did of Basque
not speak the English language and felt immigrants throughout the
pretty isolated because of it. In order to moved to United States and
make up for this, they decided to create Johnson County to try their luck at Canada.
their own community by inviting their sheep ranching. Ultimately, Basque “The human experience is broadened
friends and family. Those people then people would come to have a large and deepened through an encounter
invited their friends and family and influence on local culture as early with the diversity of human beings,”
soon the Basque population in Buffalo immigrants began to send back to Romtvedt said. “There is a true
really began to blossom.” Europe for additional helpers. beauty to those that have cultures
Most of those Basque immigrants who In the 115 years since Esponda first and traditions that are different from
came to Buffalo ended up becoming moved to Buffalo, the Basque culture in are own and that beauty is worth
sheep ranchers, Romtvedt said. the city has evolved a bit, Romtvedt said. celebrating.”

2018 Vista - Page 41

 Get away
for the day
W
hile Buffalo provides views and activities galore, it would be
almost wasteful to bypass the opportunities that surround it.
In Johnson County, a daytrip can offer experiences in historic
buildings, amazing wildlife and beautiful streams that continue to carve paths
through the canyon, telling the stories of their past and providing breathtaking
views. Here are some of the best drives the area offers:

1. Fort Phil
Kearny/Story: couple
of hours to half a day
The partially re-
created fort, visitors
center and museum
are headquarters
for learning about
the Bozeman Trail
and the famed Red
Cloud’s War. During
the season, the state
historic site partners
with Wyoming Game
and Fish to offer
hunter access.
• Travel north on
Interstate 90 to Exit
44 (Piney Creek
Road/U.S. Highway
87 to Story). Turn
left at Wyoming
Highway 193 and
follow the signs to
Fort Phil Kearny;
stop at the John
“Portuguese” Phillips Last year marked the
monument. 150th anniversary of
• To the Wagon Box Fight site, retrace your route to WYO 193. Turn left the Wagon Box Fight.
Fort Phil Kearny held
on WYO 193 toward Story and follow the distinctive Wagon Box signs. a re-enactement
Turn back toward Story, where you can make a stop at the Story Fish with actors from the
Hatchery. Real Bird family.
• Retrace your route to WYO 193, but turn left toward Banner to rejoin
U.S. 87, where you turn right toward Buffalo. Massacre Hill is the site of
the Fetterman Monument.

Page 42 - 2018 Vista

2. Crazy Woman Canyon:
few hours to half a day
If you only have half a day to
spend in the Bighorn Mountains,
this is the daytrip to take. A
favorite tour for locals and
visitors alike, this route takes
travelers along a single-lane dirt
road into the mountains through
a spectacular canyon. Starting at
the top of the canyon, about 25
miles west of Buffalo, the canyon
is wide with shady camping spots
along the banks of Crazy Woman
Creek. As travelers descend, the
canyon narrows and steep, craggy
cliff walls offer ample shade
during the heat of summer. There
are plenty of places to stop and
have a picnic
or take a little
walk. Crazy Woman
Probably Canyon is a
the most- must-see for
asked anyone visiting
the area.
question by
visitors is
about the
canyon’s
name. Like many landmarks
and legends from the Wyoming
frontier, there are competing
theories about the canyon’s
namesake. One legend holds that
the canyon was named for an

Indian woman who, left to live
alone in her teepee here, went insane. The other tells a tragic and
violent tale of the settler who, after witnessing the capture and
scalping of her husband by Indians, was driven to insanity.
For centuries, Crazy Woman Canyon served as a passageway
for Native Americans. It was a perfect staging area for war
parties during the Plains Indian Wars.
This route is not recommended for trailers or large RVs.
• Begin at the intersection of Fort and Main streets in Buffalo,
heading west. About 25 miles from Buffalo, watch for the sign
indicating County Road 33, which branches left (south) from
U.S. 16.
• To return to Buffalo, the gravel road winds through the
canyon and joins with Wyoming Highway 196. Turn left (north)
onto WYO 196 and it’s 10 miles to Buffalo.
3.
Outlaw Cave and Dull Knife Battlefield:
half to full day
This is the land of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
Locals and visitors favor the area’s wildlife and scenery, as
much as the outlaw tales. This is the area of the Middle Fork of
the Powder River.
High-clearance vehicles are recommended beyond the Outlaw
Cave sign.
Begin in Kaycee at the Interstate 25 interchange. Head west
about 1 mile to the Barnum Road sign (Wyoming Highway
190). Follow Barnum Road 17.1 miles to a sign designating the
Middle Fork Management Area of the Powder River.
Turn left at the sign onto a gravel/dirt road. After 8.5 miles,
turn at the Outlaw Cave sign
and follow the road 2 miles. A
prehistoric rock shelter and Indian
pictographs are just past the cave.

While you’re here, don’t miss

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance
Kid’s hideout near Kaycee.

2018 Vista - Page 43

 Calendar of events
June
June 9 – Hole in the Wall tour hosted
by the Hoofprints of the Past Museum
June 15 and 16 – Chris LeDoux
Days in Kaycee
June 23 – Jim Gatchell Memorial
Museum’s Living History Day
June 24 – Watch the soldiers of the
American West perform a Wild West
Show set to period music. The event
runs from 4 to 5 p.m. at the Johnson
County Fairgrounds. Free to attend.
July
July 20-22 – Big Horn Mountain
Festival
Page 44 - 2018 Vista
July 27-28 – Crazy Days
July 28 – Aug. 5 – Johnson County Fair
and Rodeo
August
Aug. 4 – Johnson County
Fair and Rodeo parade
Aug. 4 – Klondike Rush
Aug. 10-12 – Longmire Days
Aug. 25 – Powder River Brew Fest
in Kaycee at Harold Jarrard Park
September
Sept. 15 – Oktoberfest
Weekly:
• Thursdays, year round: Occidental
Bluegrass Jam Session, 6:30-10 p.m.
• Wednesdays, June-July: Wednesday
Night Rodeos at Johnson County
Fairgrounds
• Wednesdays: Buffalo Downtown
Association Farmers Markets from 5
to 6:30 p.m. in Crazy Woman Square.
Every second Wednesday of the month
includes “Alive After Five” with
extended farmers market hours, arts,
crafts and music.
• Tuesdays, June-August: Johnson
County Cowgirls Rodeo at Johnson
County Fairgrounds
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2018 Vista - Page 45
 Stay and Play in the Mountains

Cabin rentals, restaurants, ATV rentals, kayak rentals

and horseback rides.

Page 46 - 2018 Vista

Buffalo’s one-stop
outdoors shop The Sports Lure provides everything
an outdoor enthusiast could need
for enjoying the Bighorn Mountains

With 50 years on Main

Street, Buffalo’s Sports Lure
has become synonymous with
outdoor recreation in the Big-
horn Mountains.
An emphasis on customer
service coupled with a vast
knowledge of the local area has
long been the key to the sport-
ing goods store’s success.
“We’ve been here three or
four generations,” says one of
the Sports Lure proprietors,
Lucas Todd.
“We fish and
hunt ourselves, The Sports
Lure offers
we ski our-
everything
selves. If you you need
want to climb to get out
Cloud Peak, and enjoy
we’ve done it. the great
And our cus- outdoors.
tomers get the
benefit of our
experience and
knowledge.”
Todd believes a love and re- out of town or have been fishing the area national forest backyard means the Sports
spect for Buffalo’s surroundings is reflected your entire life, stopping by and getting the Lure makes sure cyclists have what they
in the quality of service the store provides. word on the latest conditions can make any need to get onto the singletrack.
“We’re obviously very proud of where fisherman’s day on the water. A massive inventory of parts and
we live. We have a general love of the area Rods, reels, flies, lures and anything else accessories complements a selection of
and we want to share that,” says Todd. that might be fishing-related is all available bikes made by Trek. Mountain bikes can be
Being honest and straightforward with as well. The Sports Lure carries brands rented as well.
customers is a must, Todd says. Outdoors- such as Sage, Ross, G Loomis, Cortland, In addition, the Sports Lure is stocked
men from all over the country make it a Scientific Anglers, Simms, Hodgeman and with an extensive shooting sports depart-
habit to come back to the Bighorns to take Patagonia to ensure customers are getting ment, where an expert staff can provide
advantage of the unspoiled beauty the area top-notch, reliable gear. information and answer question concern-
offers. Rentals on fishing gear are also available ing firearms, archery and optics.
The Sports Lure has become a mandato- and fishing licenses for both residents and For the fashion sensible, the Sports Lure
ry stop during these excursions for anyone non-residents can be purchased in the offers a variety of outdoor clothing and
wanting to know the latest on fishing, store. sportswear, with a complete shoe, hiking
hunting, biking, camping or anything out- Expansive swaths of public land across boot, sandal and clog selection in addition
doors-related. northeastern Wyoming are perfect for to Western wear and Wyoming souvenir
“We try to form a relationship with our camping outings with family and friends. clothing.
customers,” Todd says. “We want to find The pristine Cloud Peak Wilderness is also At the end of the day, Todd says giving
out their interests and try to help them find a major draw for hikers and backpackers visitors what they need to enjoy their time
their right gear to fit their needs.” from all over. in the outdoors.
He said staff tries the best to greet each With an inventory that includes names “Our customers use the stuff,” says
customer and provide personalized service such as The North Face, Patagonia, Os- Todd. “It’s not a window dressing. And
that gives people the equipment they need. prey, Western Mountaineering, Kelty, Sierra because of that, we have to provide gear
The Sports Lure is also Buffalo’s fishing Designs, MSR, Pur, Outdoor Research that’s good.”
headquarters. Up-to-date information on and Slumberjack, the Sports Lure staff Visit the Sports Lure at 66 S. Main in
stream levels, water conditions and fish diet can fill the needs of virtually any outdoor downtown Buffalo or online at www.sport-
is provided by the store’s knowledgeable enthusiast. slure.com. The store is open seven days a
staff. Whether you’ve just arrived from Having an abundance of trails in its week and can be reached at (800) 684-7682.
2018 Vista - Page 47
 Your Outdoor Headquarters

Maps
Licenses
Shooting sports
Fishing
Camping
Outdoor clothing
Footwear

Downtown Buffalo
66 Main Street • 1-800-684-7682
www.sportslure.com
Open Seven Days a Week
Page 48 - 2018 Vista