+++++freshwater Tropical Fish Profiles 50 of Your Favourites PDF

Freshwater
Tropical Fish
Profiles:
50 of Your Favorites!
By
Sean LeMay
2004
Table of Contents
Angelfish......................................................................................................................................... 5
Archer Fish .................................................................................................................................. 11
Bala Shark.................................................................................................................................... 13
Betta.............................................................................................................................................. 15
Black Skirt .................................................................................................................................... 19
Bleeding Heart ............................................................................................................................. 22
Bronze Cory.................................................................................................................................. 24
Butterfly Cichlid........................................................................................................................... 27
Cardinal Tetra .............................................................................................................................. 30
Chinese Algae Eater..................................................................................................................... 33
Clown Loach ................................................................................................................................ 35
Convict Cichlid............................................................................................................................. 38
Discus – “The King” .................................................................................................................... 42
Dwarf Rainbowfish ...................................................................................................................... 46
Firemouth..................................................................................................................................... 49
Glass Catfish ................................................................................................................................ 52
Glowlight Tetra ............................................................................................................................ 54
Guppy............................................................................................................................................ 56
Honey Gourami............................................................................................................................ 59
Jack Dempsey............................................................................................................................... 62
Keyhole Cichlid ............................................................................................................................ 65
Kissing Gourami .......................................................................................................................... 68
Kribensis ....................................................................................................................................... 71
Kuhli Loach.................................................................................................................................. 74
Lemon Cichlid .............................................................................................................................. 76
Lemon Tetra ................................................................................................................................. 78
Leporinus...................................................................................................................................... 81
Lyretail.......................................................................................................................................... 83
Marbled Hatchet .......................................................................................................................... 85
Molly ............................................................................................................................................. 88
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Moonlight Gourami ..................................................................................................................... 91
Neon Tetra.................................................................................................................................... 94
Oscar............................................................................................................................................. 97
Paradise Fish.............................................................................................................................. 100
Pearl Gourami............................................................................................................................ 103
Penguin Fish .............................................................................................................................. 106
Platy ............................................................................................................................................ 109
Plecostomus................................................................................................................................ 112
Red-Bellied Piranha................................................................................................................... 115
Red Tailed Shark........................................................................................................................ 117
Rosy Barb ................................................................................................................................... 120
Rummy Nosed Tetra................................................................................................................... 123
Scat ............................................................................................................................................. 126
Severum ...................................................................................................................................... 129
Silver Dollar ............................................................................................................................... 132
Swordtail..................................................................................................................................... 135
Tiger Barb .................................................................................................................................. 138
White Cloud................................................................................................................................ 141
Zebra Danio................................................................................................................................ 144
Zebra Loach ............................................................................................................................... 147
4
Angelfish
Pterophyllum Scalare
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Names/Variations: Silver Angel,
Size: up to 6" (15cm)

Tank: 48 inches, 20 gallon Minimum
Strata: Mid dweller
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium.
dH range: 1-20, GH 5-12
Temperature: 73ºF to 84ºF (23-29°C)
Origin: Central Amazon, Peru, Eastern
Ecuador
Social: Peaceful, but will eat small fish
Community Tank: OK while small. May
become aggressive toward small fish when
larger
Life span: 10+ years
Diet: Omnivore, enjoys live foods, tubifex,
water fleas, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Moderately easy
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Pterophyllum
General Body Form
Disk-shaped.
Dorsal and anal fins are elongated and sail-like, the pectoral fins are stretched into long
filaments. The caudal fin is fan shaped and broad. The outermost fin rays are
prolonged.
In older fish the forehead bulges.
5
Including the fins the Angel may reach a length of six inches and a height of ten inches.
Coloration
Original, wild specimens: The body is “silvery” with a slight brown tinge, the snout, back
and forehead are brownish-yellow.
Sides are marked with four black transverse bars, the first running in a curve from the
nape through the eye to the start of the ventral fin. The second from the dorsal to the
anus, the third is the most prominent runs from the dorsal to the anal fins and the fourth
crosses the start of the caudal fin. A few fainter bars can sometimes be seen in the
upper half of the body.
The dorsal fin spines are yellow-brown, the front of the ventral fins steel-blue and the
soft rayed parts of the unpaired fins are greyish-white.
Today, due to selective breeding one can find many color and fin mutations.
Silver most closely resembles the wild Angel. There are also Black, Gold, Ghost, Lace,
Marble, Veiltail, Zebra and many more available today
Notes
• One of the most graceful of aquarium fish and especially beautiful when large, but
some specimens can bully other slow-swimming or long-finned fish.
• Becomes quite tame after a while, recognizing its owner's approach at feeding time.
• Regular feeding with live food is recommended.
Detailed Breeding Information
Choosing Breeder Angelfish

(NOTE: These guidelines apply generally to the selection of ANY type of fish)
The best way of assuring at least one young pair is to choose 6 perfect specimens from
a large tankfull of young angels. This method is less expensive than buying proven
breeders that may be near the end of their breeding careers.
When preparing to buy 6 Angelfish, take your time to study the fish and select only
those with straight top and bottom fins and perfect 'feelers' without any bowing or bends
in them.
They should be strong, robust and active.

6
Angelfish that are active feeders mean they will grow quickly, and females have a high
rate of egg production.
Do not buy fish from a tank with either dead fish in it, with fungus or parasite
infestations.
Resist the urge to 'come to the rescue of the little ugly duckling' because it will only grow
up to be a big ugly duckling and will be totally unsuitable for breeding purposes.
Be extremely picky with your breeder selection and you will be rewarded with beautiful
fry.
Once you have carefully selected your 6 potential breeders, they can be set up in a 20
gallon tank minimum to grow up in and to finally pair off. If they are fed well with a good
selection of live foods, they will grow quickly and reach breeder size rapidly.
You will notice at least on set “pair off”. This will become your breeding pair.
Tank Size
The minimum size tank for a breeding pair of Angelfish is 15 gallons, but should be 25
gallons or larger if you plan on leaving the fry with the parents. As you can imagine, a
fully-grown pair of Angels with 200-300 fry to herd around would be pretty cramped in
anything smaller.
Larger tanks lend a feeling of security and the parents are less likely to eat the eggs or
fry.
Diet
Angelfish can survive on flake food alone, but they will thrive and be much more apt to
breed on a greatly varied diet. Live foods such as adult brine shrimp, black worms,
mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms and Guppy fry are accepted with
enthusiasm and should be included regularly.
If live food is not available, frozen packages of blood worms, brine shrimp etc. are
available from your favorite pet supply store and are acceptable substitutions for the live
food.
There are many dried foods available that will suffice too.
7
Raw beef heart, finely ground, mixed with unflavored gelatin and frozen immediately in
small one serving size pieces is a good and economical addition to your Angelfish diet.
Be absolutely sure there is no fat in the meat.
Spawning
A partial water change and a rise in temperature to between 80 and 82ºF can stimulate
breeding.
One sure sign that spawning is about to occur is the appearance of the pair's genital
papillae. These look like little nipple-like projections and are called ovipositors (oh vi
poz' uh turs), a word that literally means "egg-placer(s)".
The female's ovipositor is larger and more blunt than the male's which is slender and
more pointed.
These protuberances which appear at the vent are used respectively for depositing
eggs and fertilizing them. The obvious differences in the genital papillae are the first
completely reliable indication of sex determination. The pair will select a spawning site
and thoroughly clean it about two or three days before actual spawning takes place.
When the cleanliness of the spawning site finally meets the approval of the parent fish,
the female will make a few test runs. She will pull her ventral fins or feelers close to the
lower sides of her abdomen and her anal fin will be situated so that her entire lower line
is relatively straight. Her ovipositor will then be able to make full contact with the slate,
leaf or whatever was chosen for a spawning site.
The male will then make a few practice runs too before the actual spawning takes place.
When spawning actually takes place, the female will pass over the site and eggs are
deposited which adhere to the surface. The male then moves in and scoots along over
the string of eggs just laid and fertilizes them, his fins taking the same position as the
female's so he can press closely to insure a higher fertilization rate. The male and
female Angelfish will take turns making passes over the spawning site until several
hundred or more eggs have been laid, depending on the size and condition of the
female prior to spawning.
Up to 1,000 eggs laid on rocks over a small area, during a 2 hour spawning period.
The parents will hover closely over the spawn and fan continuously with their pectoral
fins to create a circulation of water over and around the eggs.
Some unfertilized eggs will turn white in a matter of hours and will be removed by the
parents.
8
Fry Diet
Angelfish fry have been successfully raised on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp
(napulii) for the first 4 weeks of their lives and fed two to four times daily.
After that, they can be gradually introduced to a mixture of finely powdered Angelfish
flakes and powdered dried blood worms with an occasional (twice a week) feeding of
baby brine shrimp.
When their bodies are about the size of a quarter, they may be fed Guppy fry. An easy
way to provide this very nutritious food is to keep pregnant guppies in the same tank as
the young Angels and the rest is up to nature. Of course feedings of other varied foods
are needed to round out the diet.
Leaving Fry with Parents
If the parents are to be left with the eggs, it is best to provide as much peace and quiet
for them as possible. You may want to set up their tank in your bedroom or a spare
room where they will not be unnecessarily disturbed.
Some aquarists cover the tank with paper or black plastic and use peep holes to
observe the fish. This can cause more disturbance than without the cover because
there is no warning for the fish when the lid is going to be opened for feeding or for any
other reason.
The best system for filtering a fry tank is a seeded corner sponge filter. Start your new
rotifer bacteria colony by putting the new sponge filter with aeration into an established
tank. This should be done long before you have to use it so that all you have to do is
pop it into the fry tank when the time comes.
The sponge will begin to discolor when you have the start of your colony. The circulation
of water is gentle, the fry won't be sucked into the sponge and even baby brine shrimp
are safe with a sponge filter.
Clean the sponge in a bucket of siphoned off aquarium water to protect the rotifers from
dying, wring it out a couple of times and it's ready to go back to work even in a
completely bare aquarium.
Undergravel filters also work biologically, but are not as convenient to use in this
instance. A scrupulously clean aquarium is essential for proper growth and health of
your Angel fish fry, but with an undergravel filter, this is almost impossible to do. The
water can look crystal clear while the space under the filter can be filthy with uneaten
food and fish waste. This in turn causes ammonia build-up which is dangerous or even
fatal to fish. It is obviously very difficult if not impossible to keep a fry tank with an
undergravel filter in it perfectly clean.
9
Hatching Eggs Away from Parents
Should you decide to remove the eggs after spawning to raise away from the parents
use a bare 15-20 gallon tank with sponge filter and a piece of slate leaned up against a
side wall.
Angelfish will use the piece of slate to lay their eggs on making it easy for you to remove
the entire spawn.
Gently transfer the slate and spawn into a large submerged jar. Make sure the spawn
are facing upward.
An airstone should be placed in the jar in such a way that the somewhat vigorous
stream of air bubbles does not hit the eggs directly.
The jar should be floated in the tank so the temperature remains constant and that
water changes can come from the parent's tank.
Hatching should occur in about 36 to 48 hours depending on the temperature. If some

eggs fall off the slate, you may elect to either pick them up with an eyedropper or turkey
baster and squirt them back on the slate or leave them to hatch where they are.
Slow the aeration after the fry are free swimming.
There will be a period after hatching and before free swimming when the fry will stick
together. At this time increase the aeration so ALL the fry will have access to sufficient
oxygen.
Do not put food in the jar until they fry are free swimming.
This will only serve to foul the water and they won't eat while they still have a yolk sack
to live on.
After about 3-5 days when they are free swimming, you may introduce newly hatched
brine shrimp into the jar for the fry to eat.
10
Archer Fish
Toxotes jaculatrix
Fresh, Brackish and Saltwater

Egglayer
Other Names: 7-Spot Archer,

Largescale Archer, Banded
Archerfish
Adult Size: 11 inches (27 cm)
But usually domestic
specimens are approx. 4
inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Strata: Top dweller
pH: 7.2-7.8
Hardness: 6-10 dH
Temperature: 77-86ºF (25-30ºC)
With added sea salt
Family: Toxotidae
Origin: Australia, India, Malasia,
Thailand, and Vietnam
Social: Peaceful if in a large school
Community Tank: NO
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Carnivorous: Flies, small
crickets, may accept tubifex and
water fleas.
Best food is live insects, which the fish captures for itself, but it will accept meaty
substitutes.
Breeding: Egglayer, not bred in captivity
Care: Intermediate to Advanced
Colour Variations
A silvery fish with yellow shadings. Six heavy black bands on the sides, one running
through the eye.
Notes
The Archer Fish is truly one of the wonders of the aquatic world. Because of its
peculiar method of catching food it’s always in demand
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In the wild, it obtains its food by squirting a jet of water at insects on overhanging
plant matter. The insects fall into the water and are eaten.
Toxotes is equipped with a strange mouth structure, which enables the fish to expel
pellets of water at resting insects that come within range. It sometimes even shoots
at flying insects and it can occasionally be coaxed into shooting at pieces of meat
suspended within its range of vision.
To do this with any degree of accuracy, of course, the Archer Fish must allow for the
refractive property of the water itself!
The actual force with which the water pellets are expelled is enough to cause a stinging
sensation to uncovered human skin!
Large specimens can hit a target 2-3m away
Special Aquarium Considerations
Lean toward a larger aquarium if you want to attempt to raise these guys.
Ideally, use a deep tank part-filled, with a tight-fitting lid, to provide a space above the
water where insects can be introduced.
Have plants growing up above the surface or roots going down into the water.
12
Bala Shark
Balantiocheilus melanopterus
Cyprinid
Egg Scatterer
Other Common Names: Tricolor Shark , Silver

Shark
Size: Up to 16" (40cm), females smaller

Tank: 48 inches, 55 gallon
Strata: All, mostly middle
pH: 5.8 to 7.8
Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 5.0 - 15.0
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: Thailand, Borneo, Sumatra
Clear, fast-flowing rivers
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 10+ years
Diet: Omnivore, eats most foods
Breeding: Egglayer - not bred in captivity
Care: Easy to Intermediate
Classification
Order: Atheriniformes
Suborder: Cyprinodontoidei
Family: Cyprinodontoidae
Genera: Balantiocheilus
General Body Form
Slightly downfacing mouth with no barbels. It is a very slender fish with a general
convex appearance. The dorsal fin is triangular in shape and, along with its swimming
pattern, is the reason for its common name.
They have a slender elongated body, a large eye and a forked tail. The head is small.
They have a sleek streamlined appearance.
They can reach a length of 16 inches, but are generally smaller.
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Coloration
Almost all the fins are edged with a wide black band, with the front areas being bright
yellow or orange in color. The pectoral fins are transparent.
The bodies are silver with a slight yellow sheen. The back is brown and the belly area
white.
Maintenance
The Bala shark is one of the easiest fish to maintain it is also one of the most peaceful
that minds its own business at all times.
The tank should be large with live plants and also lots of swimming areas. The Bala is a
very active fish which will cover all areas of the tank and will go over the substrate
picking up pieces of food that were missed by others.
It has no specific feeding requirements and will accept all flake food as well as
supplemental live foods.
The only drawback to this great fish is that it grows too large for most home aquariums.
It’s also a skilled jumper so a tight fitting cover is needed.
Notes
• A clicking sound can be heard in larger Silver Sharks as the jaw moves to lengthen
and widen the mouth.
• They will pick up gravel from the bottom to scrape off the algae.
• Sharks may eat plants, so use tougher plants like Java Fern Thick Val
• Floating plants such as Crystalwort or Indian Fern can also be used to stop their
jumping tendencies.
• Silver Sharks act as a barometer for water quality or disease. They are usually the
first fish to show signs of white spot and the first to stress if there is ammonia in the
water.
• Mature females are plumper than males.
14
Betta
Betta Splendens
Anabantoid
Egglayer – bubblenest
Other name: Siamese Fighting Fish

Size: Up to 3" (8cm)
Tank: Any, 5 gallon or larger is best
Strata: All
pH: 6.0 to 8.0
Hardness: Soft to hard. dH range: 2.0 -
25.0
Origin: Cambodia, Thailand and
Singapore
Marshy areas including rice
fields.
Social: Males cannot be kept together
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Diet: Live foods preferable, will eat
flakes and frozen foods
Breeding: Easy, Egglayer – bubblenest
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Anabantoidei
Family: Belontidae
Genera: Betta
General Body Form
Long bodied when compared with most Anabantoids.
Anal fin is very long and inserted. Ventral fins are saber shaped. Caudal fin is large and
almost circular in shape. The dorsal fin starts behind the middle of the body.
By selective breeding the common Veiltail Bettas we see today bear little resemblance
to the wild specimens. The tails alone can reach a length of two and one quarter inches
(6 cm)
15
Coloration
The brilliant coloration and long flowing fins of the Betta make it one of the most well
known of aquarium fish.
The long finned, highly colorful strains of the Betta we know today vary greatly from the
original wild forms.
Today we have Flesh-colored, bright Blue Emerald Green, Red, Red-Violet and even
Jet Black. These colors can be found alone or more commonly a mixture of two or more
of them.
The original form has much less variation. The colors are only intense when the fish is
fighting or breeding and tend to be washed out at all other times. When this happens
the Betta is a non spectacular Reddish-Brown with two transverse bars visible on the
body.
Females are mostly Yellow-Brown, with short fins. A well-conditioned breeding female
will often display horizontal stripes.
Maintenance
Bettas are not at all difficult to keep. They will be very happy in any well-lit tank with a
dark substrate. The addition of some floating plants will complete the setup.
Bettas have an extra organ (labyrinth organ) that allows them to obtain oxygen right
from the air and so can be kept in very small quarters if needed
They have no special requirements regarding water composition and aeration and
filtration is not necessary.
In nature, Bettas subsist almost exclusively on insects and insect larvae. They are built
with an upturned mouth that is well suited to snatching any hapless insect that might fall
into the water. Internally their digestive system is geared for meat, having a much
shorter alimentary track than vegetarian fish. For this reason, live foods are the ideal
diet for the betta, however they will adapt to eating flake foods and frozen and freeze
dried foods.
Bettas tolerate all other fish well and can be put in a community tank set up. Be sure
there are no fin nipping fish like Tiger barbs or your beautiful fish will be stripped of all
its fins.
16
The most important thing to remember is that male Bettas will not tolerate the presence
of another male and will fight to the death to protect his territory.
Breeding
Bettas have a fairly short lifespan, and are most successful as breeders when they
under a year old (bettas in pet shops are usually at least six months old).
Ideally the fish should be conditioned prior to breeding, by feeding them a diet of live
foods. The water should be at a pH of about 7.0, and temperature around 80 or slightly
above.
Bettas are probably the best known members of the "bubble nest" builders. When they
are ready to spawn, males blow an elaborate nest consisting of air bubbles enclosed in
saliva and are very strong. The nest is located at the water surface among floating
plants.
They do not require a large tank or special equipment and most breeders find that a
bare bottomed tank of roughly ten gallons works well, although smaller tanks are also
suitable.
The female should be provided with a hiding place, as males may become aggressive
during courtship. Even with a hiding place, it is common for the female to lose a few
scales or have their fins frayed during spawning.
When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling
each other beneath the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who
has turned on her back in what is often called the “nuptial embrace”. As she expels the
eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink.
The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest.
From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as
the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.
The male will continue to tend the bubblenest, spitting eggs that fall out back into the
nest. In one to two days the eggs will hatch, and the fry will be visible hanging in the
bubblenest with their tails pointing downward.
They will feed off their yolk sack for another thirty six hours, during which time the male
will continue to pick up any fry that fall out of the nest. The male should be removed
within two days after the fry hatch, as they may eat the young once they are free
swimming.
17
The fry should be fed a couple of feedings daily of baby brine shrimp or very fine baby
food. Take care not to overfeed, as the uneaten food will foul the water and can quickly
prove lethal to the fry.
Care must be taken in the first few weeks to maintain temperature as the development
of the Labyrinth is sensitive to temperature change.
Notes
• Not unlike underground “cock fighting”, large wagers are still placed on male Bettas
placed together for the sole purpose of fighting, thus the name “Siamese Fighting
Fish”
• Survivors of these contests often display damaged fins and other battle scars
18
Black Skirt
Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Characin
Egglayer
Other Common Names/variations: Black

Tetra, Black-Skirt Tetra, Black Widow, Gold
Skirt Tetra
Size: 2 inches
Tank: 24 inches
Strata: All
pH: huge range from 5.8 to 8.5
Hardness: soft to hard –up to 15dH
Temperature: 68°F to 79°F (20-26°C)
Family: Characidae
Origin: Southern Brazil
Social: Peaceful, good community fish
Communiy Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Tank Level: Mid dweller
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Egglayer
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Cypriniformes
Suborder: Characoidei
Family: Characidae
Genera: Gymnocorymbus
General Body Form
Tall and highly compressed they are noted for their curved anal fin which is quite long. It
is almost as long as the entire rear half of the body.
The female Blackskirt is bigger and more robust than the male.
In the Goldskirts there are no easily identifiable sexual differences.
19
Coloration:
One of the most well known representatives of the tetra family, the black widow is easily
recognized by the distinctive black dorsal and anal fins, and vertical black stripes on its
body.
Once it achieves its mature size at approximately one year, the dark coloration slowly
begins to fade to a silvery gray
Although their natural colour is black and pearly white these Tetra's are often sold as a
coloured fish.
The common names for these colored fish reflect the dye color, Blue fish are called
Blueberry tetra's, Purple fish are Grape tetra's, Orange/Yellow fish are Mandarin or
Tangerine tetra's, etc. The dye process is not nearly as stressful as the process
undergone by painted Glassfish and instead of lasting only a couple months can last for
up to a year.
Maintenance
Blackskirts are a wonderful fish for beginners and are also a great choice for pretty
much any habitat. They are a small fish who are not all that finicky about their water
conditions and will live in water with a pH of anywhere between 5.8 and 8.5. As long as
you keep up with regular water changes they'll live a long and happy life.
These tetras, unlike most, can be a bit aggressive. They are an active, schooling fish by
nature and are best kept in groups of three or more.
They are wonderful in a species tank but also do well in a community tank of other
similarly sized and larger fish.
Breeding
Female black widows are generally larger than the males and have a rounder body. In
the female the anal fin runs parallel with the vertical black stripe in her abdomen. Males
are smaller, have a broader anal fin, and a narrower more pointed dorsal fin. Males
occasionally have white spots on the caudal fin.
Larger males will generally claim a territory that they will guard during spawning periods.
Although they are egg scatterers they prefer to spawn among fine-leafed plants, which
should be provided in the breeding tank.
Once spawning has occurred the parents should be removed before they consume the
eggs.
20
Eggs will hatch after approximately one day. The fry may be fed freshly hatched brine
shrimp, egg yolk, or finely ground flake foods.
21
Bleeding Heart
Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma
Characin
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Spotfin Tetra

Size: 2.5" (6 cm)
Tank: 24 inches
Strata: Bottom-middle
pH: 5.5-7.3
Hardness: soft to hard. dH range: 3.0 - 12.0
Temperature: 73 to 82°F (23-28°C)
Family: Characidae
Origin: South America, Amazon and tributaries
particularly Columbia and Peru
Heavily vegetated small streams and rivers
Social: Peaceful
Commuity Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Tank Level: Mid dweller
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Breeding: Egglayer-Not bred in captivity
Care: Easy
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Hyphessobrycon
Species: Erythrostigma
General Body Form
Tall and disc shaped. The male’s dorsal fin is pointed and the end extends to form a
filament, the anal fins first ray is much longer than the rest. The female’s dorsal fin is
rounded with her anal fin front being longer.
Coloration
22
The upper side is orange to brown with a reddish tinge. The underside is a silvery red.
The body and throat are a pinkish orange. On each side of the fish is a bright red mark
ringed with iridescent scales--obviously this is where its common name came from.
The front of the dorsal fin is red with a large black dot. The anal fin has a triangular
white area. The upper half of the iris is red and the eyes have a black cross band.
Maintenance
Sensitive to poor water conditions the bleeding heart can be a great member of a
community. The tank should be well planted either using live or plastic plants and be
dimmed with some floating material. They are more sensitive to light than most so an
arraignment of dark colors is better.
Provide hiding places for this shy fish but also leave open spaces for swimming.
Undemanding, they will eat flake, freeze dried, or frozen foods As with all fish it is
important that you vary the food on a regular basis. You’ll be rewarded with more vibant
colors with a varied diet.
Kept in groups of six or more and away from any fin nipping species the bleeding heart
should b provide you with many hours of enjoyment.
23
Bronze Cory
Corydoras aeneus
Other Common Names/variations: Bronze

Catfish, Aeneus Catfish, Green Corydoras
Tank: 20 inches
Strata: Bottom
pH: 5.8 to 7.8
Family: Callichthyidae
Origin: Argentina, Colombia, Venezuela, Trinidad
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank:
Lifespan: 5 years
Tank Level: Bottom dweller
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Diet: Omnivore
Breeding: Egglayer
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Siluriformes
Family: Callichthyidae
Genera: Corydoras
General Body Form
Typical for the genus, the lateral armor consists of 21 to 23 upper and 19 to 21 lower
bony plates. The upper jaw barbels extend almost to the gill slits. They can reach a
length of about three inches.
Like all Corydoras, this species is armored with overlapping scales known as plates.
Their fins possess a leading spine, which can be locked in place to make it difficult for
larger fish to swallow them. This spine can make netting them difficult, and care should
be taken when doing so.
Coloration
The central area of each side is darker than the rest and extends to the beginning of the
Caudal fin. The basic ground color is pale brown to a brownish Yellow. The head and
side areas have a metallic sheen to them which appears green, copper or a golden
color depending on the light and angle of viewing.
24
Maintenance
In the home aquarium, Corydoras aeneus are prized for being active, peaceful,
charmingly expressive and easy to care for.
Most species of Corydoras will tolerate a wide range of variations in temperature, pH

and hardness.
The tank can be decorated with driftwood and a few live plants, soft sandy substrate is
essential to prevent damage to the barbals. The water should be well aerated and
filtered and changed at regular intervals.
The armored catfish are omnivorous and should be fed a varied diet. Do not simply rely
on uneaten food on the bottom as their only source of food. They are bottom feeders,
which can prove to be a problem due to the fact that other fish may consume most of
the food before it reaches the bottom. Observe them at feeding time to ensure they are
getting a sufficient amount of food.
Like other Corys they prefer the company of their own kind, and should be kept in
schools of a half dozen or more.
They tend to be shy and should be provided with hiding places (preferably of wood or
stone), as well as floating plants to subdue the lighting.
Breeding
Sexually mature specimens are easy to tell apart, the females have a stouter body and
the males has a larger and more pointed Dorsal fin. You should have a ratio of two
males to each female.
Spawning Corydoras aeneus is relatively easy. Purchasing a half dozen or more young
specimens at the same time will ensure having at least one or two breeding pairs.
Prior to breeding, they should be conditioned with high quality flake foods, as well as
fresh or frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp.
Water should be on the acidic side. Rainwater is often used to lower the pH, however
care should be taken to ensure that the water is not contaminated with toxins. A large
water change (up to fifty percent) using water that is several degrees cooler than the
breeding tank, will often trigger spawning. If having difficulties inducing spawning, try
simulating rain by slowly adding water to the tank using a sprinkler.
25
The normally shy Corydoras aeneus becomes amazingly active during courtship. Males
will pursue females throughout the aquarium at breakneck pace, stopping to rub their
body and barbels against the female whenever the opportunity arises. Once the female
is in the mood she will search for suitable egg laying sites, and begins cleaning several
suitable locations. As the courtship progresses, the roles eventually reverse and the
female begins pursuing the male.
Spawning begins in earnest when the pair assumes the classic T-position, in which the
male is at right angles to the female with her head against his mid-section. The male will
turn his body so that he can grasp the female's barbels with his pectoral fins. This
position triggers the release of sperm as well as one to ten eggs, which the female will
grasp with her pelvic fins. Once fertilized, she will deposit these eggs at a site she
previously cleaned.
The eggs are very sticky and will adhere firmly to the nesting site. Shortly thereafter the
pair will again spawn, depositing a few eggs each time. This process continues until the
female has released all her eggs, which can number as many as two to three hundred.
Spawning may continue over a period of several days.
Once spawning is complete, the adults should be removed, or the eggs moved to
another tank where the fry can be reared. If moving the eggs, wait for twenty-four hours
before moving them.
Eggs are initially almost clear, but will darken as they develop. In approximately four to
five days the eggs will hatch, although that may vary based on the environment. After
they are hatched the fry will live on their yolk sac for another three to four days.
Initially they may be fed infusoria or very fine powdered fry food, then move to freshly
hatched brine shrimp, and eventually adult foods.
Frequent water changes (ten percent daily or every other day) are critical during the
grow out period.
Growth is fairly rapid given proper conditions.
Notes
• Being an excellent scavenger, it is an invaluable addition to almost any aquarium.
• Spends almost all it's time at the bottom of the aquarium.
26
Butterfly Cichlid
Microgeophagus ramirezi.
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Ram Cichlid

Size: Up to 3" (10cm) but often smaller
Tank: 24 inches
Strata: Bottom, middle
pH: 5.0 to 7.0
Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 0 - 10
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: South America: Columbia, Venezuela
Social: Very Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes. May be bullied by
aggressive tankmates.
Lifespan: 2 years
Diet: Ominivorous
Live, frozen and flake foods
Breeding: Egg layer, protector
Care: Advanced
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Microgeophagus
General Body Form
Generally oval in shape, rather than long and is laterally compressed. The first Dorsal
fin rays are not connected to each other at the tips.
In the male the third and forth rays are longer than the rest.
The caudal fin is fan shaped. The dorsal and anal fins are rounded. They have small
mouths.
Males are generally larger and have an elongated ray at the front of the dorsal fin.
Females are smaller with a more rounded body shape, and have a pinkish area on the
stomach.
27
Coloration
The Ram is one of the most colorful Cichlids. The body and fins are a pastel blue-red to
pink with the sides showing a rainbow of colors depending on the light. There is a dark
almost black spot under the dorsal fin.
A curved dark band runs from the nape, through the eye to the throat area.
The coloration of these fish varies and there are several different color forms available.
Maintenance
The Rams should have a large well planted tank with plenty of caves, driftwood and
other hiding places. If the fish is not happy in its surroundings it will just lurk in a corner
and be very pale.
The water should be soft, slightly acidic and the temperature in the range of 73 to 77
degrees.
The Rams are very intolerant of poor water conditions and the quality must remain high.
They also do not take to medications well, so the use of them should be limited. The
rams are a timid fish and should not be kept with others that are aggressive or overly
busy, good tankmates would be smaller Tetras and Rasboras.
Breeding
If optimum conditions are kept the Ram is easily breed. The water temperature should
be raised to about 80 degrees.
They usually lay their eggs in caves or rocks. Both the male and female share brood
protection.
The eggs will hatch in about 48 hours, then the young will be moved to a shallow pit in
the substrate.
After four or five days they are free swimming and herded together in a group and
looked after by the male.
Each brood can contain as many as 150 to 200 young. The fry should be fed live or
frozen brine shrimp nauplii.
28
Notes
• Very beautiful but a delicate and short-lived fish.

• Needs constantly optimal water conditions and a balanced diet to show its beauty.
29
Cardinal Tetra
Paracheirodon Axelrodi
Characin
Egglayer

Strata: All
pH: 4.5 to 7.0
Hardness: Soft dH range: 2.0 - 8.0
Family: Characidae
Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela
Slow-moving, clear and blackwater creeks with much vegetation
Social: Peaceful
Communituy Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Breeding: Egglayer
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Super-Family: Characidoidea
Family: Characidae
Genera: Paracheirdon
General Body Form
This species is more elongated than the Neon Tetra which it otherwise resembles in
shape.
These fish generally reach a length of about one and a half inches.
Sexually mature females are more stocky than males and are generally a little longer.
Coloration
30
The fins have no color and the upper-side is a brownish-red.
A wide, single stripe extends along each side of the fish from the upper parts of the eye
to just below the adipose fin. This stripe can appear sea-green, yellow-green or
turquoise-blue, depending on the angle that the light hits it.
Below this stripe is a wide bright red band that can be seen on the lower half of the
body, running from the underside of the mouth including the throat, and all the way back
to the base of the caudal fin.
This fish is often confused with the Neon Tetra, but in the Neon the bright red band is
shorter, only running to the middle of the body.
Maintenance
A somewhat delicate fish that is sensitive to water conditions. The tank should be a
planted aquarium, with some floating plants to cut down on the light intensity.
A darker substrate material will bring out the Cardinals colors best.
Tank mates should consist only of other peaceful species, with no Cichlids.
Because of their sensitivity, they should not be introduced to a newly set up aquarium,
where changes in water parameters are inherent during the break-in period.
To ensure success, wait until the aquarium has been well established and the proper
water chemistry is in place before investing in these attractive but sensitive fish.
Like Neons they are best kept in schools of five or more.
Breeding
Soft water, pH of 5.0 - 6.0 and a water temperature of about 75ºF.
Use Java moss or a synthetic substitute over the bottom of the tank and reduce the
lighting.
Cardinals usually spawn at twilight.
The male embraces the female when spawning and about 500 eggs are scattered
among the Java moss.
Remove the parents.
31
he eggs hatch in about 24 hours and the fry are free-swimming in about five days. Feed
the young on infusoria and later on, newly hatched Brine Shrimp.
The Cardinal is not easily bred and most specimens are still imported from their native
waters.
Notes
• Cardinal Tetras have surpassed Neons and are highly in demand in the aquarium
trade. As a result, they are often priced a little higher than their smaller and less
brilliant cousins.
32
Chinese Algae Eater
Gyrinocheilus aymonieri
Cyprinid
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Indian algae eater,

Algae eater, Sucking loach
Size: Up to 10” (27cm) but usually much smaller
Tank: 30 inches, 55 gallons
Strata: Bottom dweller
pH: 6.0 to 8.0
Hardness: Soft to hard
Temperature: 75º to 78º F, (23º-28ºC)
Origin: India, Thailand
Found in moving water among the
vegetation.
Rarely seen in standing water.
Social: Territorial, can be aggressive
Community Tank: When young
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Herbivore
Breeding: Egglayer, Rarely in captivity
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Sub-order: Cyprinoidei
Family: Gyrinocheilidae
Genera: Gyrinocheilus
General Body Form
Long and cylindrical with a down facing mouth.
The mouth has thick lips with many folds that form a sucking disc. This disc helps the
fish feed on algae. It is also the basis of its common name.
The dorsal fin is well developed with nine protruding soft rays. The anal, ventral and
pectoral fins are all rounded. The caudal fin has a deep fork.
Coloration
33
The sides are a burnt yellow, with a brown stripe running down the length of the body.
This stripe is commonly broken up into spots.
The eye is also yellow.
The tail and dorsal fins may have some small spots at the base and the general
coloration is clear. The back is brown. The coloration of this fish can be quite variable.
Maintenance
To mimic its natural habitat, the tank should be heavily planted and have a fairly strong
current.
An easy fish to care for, they are vegetarian in nature but will accept flake food
supplemented with algae wafers
Younger specimens are suitable for a community set up. As they get older then tend to
become more and more aggressive among themselves and even other tank inhabitants.
Breeding
Little is known of the sexing of these fish. Breeding has occurred, but only accidentally.
Note
• One interesting adaptation of this fish is in its respiration. When it is attached to a

rock or other object with its sucking disk the water for respiration enters through a
small hole in the upper corner of its gill slit. This way the fish can stay attached in
strong currents.
34
Clown Loach
Botia macracantha
Loaches
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Tiger Botia

Size: Up to 18" (50cm), Usually only 6” in captivity
pH: 5.0 to 7.5
Family: Cobitidae
Origin: Indonesia, Sumatra and Borneo
Rivers and lakes, especially the flood-plains in the
hill country. Found in standing and running waters.
Social: Peaceful schooling fish, very active
Community Tanks: Yes, with medium-sized fish
Lifespan: 15+ years
Diet: Omnivore-Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae,
small snails
Breeding: Egglayer. Not known to have bred in captivity
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Suborder: Cyprinoidei
Family: Cobitidae
Genera: Botia
General Body Form
This fish is somewhat long and compressed laterally.
The underside is nearly straight and the back is convex. It has a large head and the
mouth is facing downward with four pairs of barbels and thick fleshy lips. The barbels on
the lower jaw are small and hard to see.
Coloration
35
The fins are bright red and three black vertical bands from the back to the belly over
orange-red sides. The first band runs from the top of the head and through the eye, the
second from the front of the dorsal fin to the belly and the third covers the start of the
caudal peduncle and spreads on to the anal fin.
In healthy and happy specimens the colors can easily equal that of the marine reef fish.
Maintenance
Although Clown Loaches have no special requirements regarding water conditions Care
should be take to keep water very clean, well aerated, and warm.
Loaches are particularly prone to ick infestations, and should be watched closely
whenever new fish or plants are added to the tank.
In the unfortunate event that an infection does occur keep in mind that loaches, like
catfish, are very sensitive to some medications. Often dosages must be cut in half to be
safe. Read product information carefully before treating your loach!
If possible, it’s more suitable to have a tank size of 48 inches (120 cm ) with the length
being more important than the depth.
It is very important to have a soft or fine textured substrate as they are continually
probing the upper layers with their barbels for food. The tank does not need to be
heavily planted, but the fish are shy and must have a place to hide - driftwood - caves -
or even a clay flowerpot. The lighting in the tank should not be overly bright.
Clown loaches are happiest living in small groups and will live peacefully with all other
fish. Sometimes they will form small troops with members of the Corydoras family.
Feeding is not difficult as they will accept all prepared foods and like all fish relish the
addition of live foods especially small worms. The addition of a plant supplement is also
beneficial.
Unlike many loaches who are only active at night, the clown loach is very active during
the daytime hours.
Clown loaches, once established, can live a very long time.
Notes:
• This beautiful fish is eaten as food fish in Indonesia and Borneo, where it grows to
over a foot in length. Fortunately for the clown loach, among aquarium enthusiasts it's a
staple in the community tank rather than on the dining table.
36
• Males can be identified by the tail, which is larger and hooks inward rather than
pointing straight out from the body.
• Females are smaller and more slender
37
Convict Cichlid
Archocentrus nigrofasciatus
Cichlid
Egg Layer
Other common Name: Zebra Cichlid
Size: 5-6 inches (15cm) full grown males;

females an inch or two smaller
Tank: At least 20 gallons, 25 per mated pair
Strata: All
pH: 6.0 to 8.0 (very wide range tolerated if kept stable)
Hardness: Soft to neutral, 9-20 dH
Temperature: 68°- 80°F (20° to 27° C)
(wide range tolerated if kept stable)
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Central America: Guatemala, El
Salvadore, Costa Rica & Panama
Social: Aggressive
Community Tank: No, unless tank
mates are larger and equally
aggressive. Also eats or uproots the
plants.
Lifespan: 10years
Diet: Omnivore, Tubifex, earthworms,
chopped meat….just about anything!
Breeding: Egglayers ,VERY prolific
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Herichthys (Archocentrus)
Species: nigrofasciatus
General Body Form
A moderately elongated, laterally compressed with an oval body shape…general cichlid

body type
Coloration:
38
Also known as the "zebra cichlid"; both this and "convict" are good descriptions of this
species because of its black vertical bars on its blue-gray body.
A dark blotch is usually present on the gill cover.
The color of the dorsal fin may range from yellow to iridescent green, and the other fins
can have a green tint as well. The head is slight gray and the belly may have pink tinge.
Both the dark stripes and pink belly become more pronounced during breeding.
Males usually have darker stripes and “pointier” fins (in addition to their usually larger
size), and fully mature ones will sometimes have a bit of a hump on their head.
Females have pinker bellies and are usually rounder.
There is also a pink/albino strain.
Maintenance:
This is perhaps one of the most forgiving fish in the pet trade! They are amazing
survivors and adapters… and they are fascinating to watch! So they are great for
beginners who are having trouble keeping more delicate species.
However, they are not for the weak of heart and for those fishkeepers with peaceful
community tank fish.
These fish are NOT known for their gentle dispositions, and need to be kept in a
species tank or with other aggressive, larger fish that will hold their own. It can and will
harass some fish to death. (They have been known to pick fights with Oscars more
than 3X's their size, and win!)
If kept in the right setup, you will really see their amazing colors and behaviors come
through--they are very entertaining fish.
They are omnivorous, and not picky eaters, but very greedy. They can be fed a variety
of foods, including flakes, cichlid pellets, frozen/live brine shrimp, blood worms, and
vegetables like chopped-up spinach leaves.
Breeding
Convicts are among the easiest bred fish in captivity, but watch out, make sure you
know what you are getting yourself into when you get a pair—they are very prolific
breeders!
39
To initiate spawning, raise the temperature up to about 84°F for a few days. (let it get
there accidentally and the same thing happens!)
Aside from the visible sex differences mentioned earlier, A ripe female also develops
orange coloration at the belly.
The Convict is one of the few cichlids where the female is more brightly colored than the
male.
Convicts will breed in home aquarium, with no special requirements needed. Convicts
easily pair off and become lifetime partners.
Convicts, like any other cichlids, are egg-layers.
Usually they prefer to nest in “caves”, like an overturned flowerpot, where they will dig a
depression for the eggs.
The male will usually do the cleaning of their new territory. The male and female will pair
off, and do a mating dance that involves shaking their heads at one another. A breeding
pair will vigorously defend their territory against encroaching fish, and will quickly push
all the other inhabitants of the tank to the opposite corner.
The female will carefully lay her eggs usually at the far wall of the cave, closely followed
by the male to fertilize them.
Convicts can lay about 100-300 small eggs. After the eggs are laid, the female fan the
eggs with constant flipping of fins to ensure oxygen flows to the eggs. The male then
patrols the area against possible predators.
At this point, the aggressiveness level of the pair is very high. When threatened, the
male and female, hand in hand, can easily overpower large predator.
The eggs will usually hatch between 48-72 hours. The wrigglers will consume their yoke
sacs for a week. Both parents will retrieve stray fry. While the male still guards the
territory, the female still takes care of the brood.
After a week the fry are now free-swimming. At this stage, they need to take in food
such as newly hatched brine shrimps, live microworms and finely crushed flakes.
The mother will search for food by stirring the gravel using her belly. That’s one reason
why gravel must be smooth (no sharp edges) to prevent injuries.
They are one of the very best when it comes to parental care, and will sometimes bury
new-born fry when they are threatened, so don't be alarmed if they go missing for a day.
40
Note:
• The bar-room brawler and reproducing rabbit of the fish world. This cichlid is a mean
S.O.B. that will hold it's own against fish more than twice its size!
41
Discus – “The King”
Symphysodon aequifasciata
Cichlid
Egglayer

Tank: 48 inches
Strata: All
pH: 5.0 to 7.0
Hardness: Very soft, dH range: 0-5
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Amazon
Social: Timid
Community Tank: No!
Lifespan: 10-15 years
Diet: Carnivore by nature, tubifex, water
fleas, mosquito larvae
Breeding: Very Difficult
Care: Advanced
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Symphysodon
General Body Form
Almost circular, or orb shaped with strong

lateral compression.
Small mouthed with a steep rising forehead.
Dorsal and anal fins are rounded with a long

base. Caudal fin is indented and the ventral
fins are sabre shaped.
Coloration
42
Today the different colors of the Discus can rival any marine fish. Most Discus seen in
the hobby are captive-bred specimens. These fish are bred for their bright colors and
unique patterns. There is an almost endless list of color variations available to hobbyists
today.
All of the new and exciting fish we have today came from pretty but not “awe inspiring”
stock. In the wild this species has three subspecies which are distinguished by their
coloration.
Green:
Background color is dark brownish green, with nine dark transverse bands--the first
running through the eye and the last lying at the base of the caudal fin.
The head, back, dorsal and anal fins are marked with horizontal dark streaks, but
usually not apparent on the main body. The cheeks have diagonal pale blue stripes
and the gill covers have three similar vertical ones.
Dorsal and anal fins have a blackish base with a pale olive green field. The first ray
of the dark green ventral fins is blue and the tip of the rays are dark brown.
Blue:
Generally brownish in color although older specimens tend to be pale blue. The
head has a faint purple sheen. Again there are have nine transverse bars of which
only the first and last can be clearly seen.
Dorsal and Anal fins are on the black with a reddish hue to them. The outer rays of
the ventral fin are blue, turning rust red at the tips.
This subspecies most distinguishable trait are the numerous horizontal pale blue
longitudinal lines which cover the whole body and extend into the dorsal and ventral
fins.
Brown:
The entire fish has different shades of brown. The base body color is yellow-brown
with the ever present nine bands which can be very visible or not seen at all.
The body color extends into the dorsal and anal fins and can be marked by bright
rust red streaks running parallel to the fin rays, contrasted with iridescent pale blue
streaks.
The caudal fin is pale green to pale yellow. The head is marked with a facemask of
pale blue lines and dots.
Maintenance
43
The Discus is often referred to as "the King of the aquarium", and there is good reason
for it. Few freshwater, and indeed few saltwater, can match their regal stature and array
of possible color schemes. Discus come in graceful pastel browns, reds and greens to
vibrant and neon blues, orange and yellow.
Not long ago their scarcity and high price limited their keeping to a few specialists.
Thanks to these pioneers the Discus in its many colors are available to most hobbyist.
However, if you can find them, they are still expensive for a freshwater fish so we want
to make sure we can provide them with the proper environment.
Discus require special care and attention.
In the wild they live in groups among the branches of submerged trees in the deep,
calm water in Amazonia.
The tank must be large enough to give plenty of open space and also lots of places to
hide. These shy fish like to retreat among bogwood or vegetation when disturbed.
Plants in a Discus tank should be robust and reach up to the surface of the water. Bog
roots and driftwood as well as clay flowerpots can be added also. The substrate should
be dark and the lighting subdued.
The ideal Discus aquarium has soft, very clean water, with a pH of about 6. For adult
fish, there should be around 10 gallons of water per fish.
Temperature should be kept in the upper seventies to low eighties. The water should be
well filtered with partial changes a must.
Feeding the Discus can be a frustrating experience. Live food should be varied and
given at every occasion possible. Tubifex, Daphnia and brine shrimp are great choices.
Discus are very peaceful and should be kept in a species tank, other fish will keep them
constantly on guard and they will never fully adapt. It is always best to keep a group of
five or six and to disturb them as little as possible.
Breeding
When well cared for and given a very varied diet these fish become sexually mature
after about two to three years and will breed in the tank where they are being kept. They
should never be transferred to a special breeding tank.
A pair will separate themselves, usually during the spring, and chase the other fish as
far as possible into a corner.
Discus are typical open breeders with a quiet form of courtship and mating.
44
The eggs are laid on rocks, often on a vertical surface and more rarely, on leaves. . The
parents will mouth the eggs to keep them clean and free of debris. They hatch in about
50 hours.
Both parents tend the young, helping to "chew" them out of the egg membrane and
transferring them to leaves. There they remain suspended by short filaments, are
fanned by both the adults and finally start to swim after a further two to three days.
Uniquely, the young feed mainly, on a skin secretion produced by the parents. This is
produced by large one celled skin glands, mainly in the region of the back; these glands
increase in number during the period of brood protection. The adults, and particularly
the female, thus fulfill the function of a lactating cow. The fry do not in fact swim free
very much, but attach themselves to the adults and suck at their skin. The parents
alternate their duties at this time. The young will concentrate on one parent until a flip of
its tail shakes them off and sends them to the other partner.
Gradually, however, the young start to take in an increasing amount of small food from
the open water, so they must be supplied with brine shrimp nauplii and rotifers.
The young have a typical elongated fish shape, but soon become more rounded. They
grow rather rapidly and by three months they are the typical Discus shape.
The juvenile coloration changes to the definitive pattern after eight to nine months.
For growing Discus, water changes should be done at least every other day, as much
as 50%. Serious breeders will routinely do 50-90% daily changes.
For grown Discus in a display aquarium, weekly changes of 25% usually suffice.
Fry should be fed 6-8 times per day with a high-quality variety of foods. Growing
juveniles should be fed 3-5 times per day, and adults at least twice per day.
Notes:
• In many countries, Discus are a huge industry. Their best stock is often kept for
breeding or show purposes, with the inferior, unhealthy or poorly shaped Discus
being sent elsewhere for sale. To be successful, locally bred Discus are always your
best bet. Look for a fish that is active, not shy or timid, is eating well and whose eyes
are not oversized for its body size. If you move your hand to the top of the tank, the
fish should come swimming up, looking for food. If they don't, they may not be
feeding. A Discus that has stopped eating is difficult to get started again.
45
Dwarf Rainbowfish
Melanotaenia maccullochi
Rainbowfish
Egglayer
Other Common name: McCulloch's

Rainbow, Black-Lined Rainbowfish
Size: Up to 2.5 inches
Tank: 28”, 25 gallons
Strata: Middle, top
pH: 7-8
Hardness: Medium to hard, 8-15dH
Temperature: 68 to 82ºF (20-25ºC)
Origin: Northern Australia
Social: Peaceful, Schooling
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, accepts most foods
Breeding: Easy, Egglayer
Care: Beginner-Intermediate
Classification
Suborder: Atherinoidei
Family: Melanotaenia
Genera: Melanotaenia
General Body Form:
This Rainbowfish is an elongated and laterally compressed fish with a small head and a
large eye.
There are two dorsal fins, the first is smaller and the larger one is set back further.
The anal fin has a long base.
The rear corners of the anal and second dorsal are rounded and separated by a large
gap from the heavily forked caudal fin.
Coloration:
The male is silver with a blue iridescence.

46
The flanks are marked with seven lateral stripes. Flanks are yellow becoming red near
at the caudal penuncle.
The gill cover is marked with an orange-red spot.
The fins have a greenish base with blood red outer parts.
The colors of the females are less intense. Males are more colorful with a pointed first
dorsal fins.
Maintenance:
An easy fish to care for the tank should be well planted along the back and edges and
have open swimming areas.
A fine gravel substrate is preferred and the lighting can be bright. Use good aeration.
Quite undemanding overall, the Dwarf Rainbow will eat all kinds of food from flake to
live.
They are a schooling fish and should be kept in groups.
Provide good filtration with a gentile current.
Breeding:
The fish are sexually mature when about one inch in size.
Use a well-planted, roomy tank with a temperature from 75-81°F (24-27°C). If properly
conditioned with live food and pristine water the fish will spawn.
Pairing is preceded by vigorous chasing.
Spawning usually takes place at dawn and continues for several days. The dark eggs
are scattered in fine leafed vegetation. Java moss or spawning mops can be used. The
eggs hang from the vegetation from shot filaments.
The first day results in 100-200 eggs, with decreasing numbers each day.
At 77ºF they hatch after 7-8 days.
The young can first be fed paramecia and later Artemia nauplii.
47
The fry grow slowly until reaching 0.4" (1 cm), when growth rate increases
The eggs can be light sensitive and should be kept in a darkened aquarium.
The parents will not bother the eggs and they may be left in the spawning tank.
Note:
• One of the first aquarium fish from "down under" seen in the states.
• The Dwarf Rainbow requires frequent partial water changes to fully develop its
colors
48
Firemouth
Thorichthys meeki
Cichlid
Egglayer
Size: 5.5–6 inches

pH: 6.5 to 8.5
Hardness: up to 10 dGH
Tank: 32 inches, 20 gallon minimum
Temperature: 21-24 C (70-75 F)
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Guatemala;Yucatan
peninsula
Social: Territorial
Community Tank: Yes
Breeding: Egglayer
Care: Easy, Beginner
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Thorichthys
General Body Form
It has a large head and its forehead is slightly curved around the eyes. Tall with
strong lateral compression. The dorsal fin starts at the gill covers.
In older fish the caudal fin is bent slightly in and the outer rays can get very long. In
the male the dorsal and anal fins are longer and more pointed.
Males will usually have more pointed or longer dorsal fins.
During times of aggression, males will flare their gills out dramatically in an effort to
appear much larger.
49
Coloration
The trademark (and reason for its name) of the Firemouth, both male and female, is its
throat and breast area, which ranges from bright fiery red to brick red.
A closer look will reveal a wide range of colors in the fish. The basic background color is
bluish gray, with a slight purple sheen. The under area is yellow-green to orange. The
sides have a series of faint dark bars.
A golden edged black spot right behind the eyes is similar to the one found at the start
of the tail fin.
Other black marks with golden edges can be seen on the lower edge of the gill cover
and at the start of the clear pectoral fins.
The dorsal fin is edged in red and the rays of the other fins are slightly brown with
the membranes speckled with bright blue-green spots.
All the scales seem to edged with red.
Maintenance
Ideally the Firemouth tank should include rocks, driftwood and many plants. Provide
an open area for swimming and displaying.
They are territorial but will rarely bother other fish unless they are in the spawning
ritual.
Good filtration and water changes must be provided.
They will accept flake, frozen and medium sized live food.
They should be kept with similar tankmates. In a large tank several pairs can be
kept.
Breeding
These fish usually breed in conjunction with neighboring pairs in order to form a small
colony for protection purposes.
During spawning, the male sets up his territory and will court passing females by doing
vertical dances with gills open, showing his flanks. Females then either ignore the
advance or follow him back to his domain. This is not usually the case on the first try
50
though, as the female may leave and return several times during the male's courting.
(Kinda sounds like a popular dance club!….couldn’t resist)
Once a pair finally forms, they will clean an area around a rock or flowerpot. The female
will begin laying eggs, as many as 500, and the male will follow up by fertilizing them.
Meeki usually separate the eggs when laying them, and this is best explained by the low
oxygen level in their natural habitat.
The female will fan the eggs while the male guards them until they hatch about two days
after being laid. The wigglers will feed on their yolk sacs for about 4-7 days and then
become free swimmers.
Normally the male will stay above the fry to scare away intruders. The meeki colony
gives each pair a very small territory, but somehow the fry are kept at home with their
parents with few exceptions. Fry are very rarely taken far away from the spawning site.
Feed the fry baby brine, daphnia, and finely crushed flake.
The parents will stir up the substrate looking for organic matter for the fry to eat as well.
Note
• The Firemouth is one of the oldest kept species. It's beautiful colors and interesting
behavior still keep it on the top of any Cichlid lovers list.
51
Glass Catfish
Kryptopterus bicirrhis
Siluridae
Egglayer-Scatterer
Other Common Names: Ghost Fish,

Glass Cat, Indian Ghost
Size: Up to 6 inches
Tank: 20”, 10 gallons for younger fish
Strata: bottom, middle
pH: slightly acidic
Hardness: up to 10dH
Temperature: 20 to 25.5°C (68 to 78°F).
Family: Siluridae
Origin: Indonesia, South-east Asia
slow-moving rivers with heavy
vegetation
Social: Peaceful,
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Tubifex, water fleas, whiteworms, mosquito larvae, flake
Breeding: Not known to have bred in captivity.
Care: Average
General Body Form
Body is elongated and laterally compressed.
This species is scaleless and lacks body pigment, thus making the body transparent.
The internal organs and backbone are clearly visible.
A long pair of barbels are located on the upper jaw. They stand straight out rather than
point downward as most catfish because they are tactile instead of olfactory sensors.
The dorsal fin is very small, consisting of only one ray. The caudal fin is forked. The
anal fin is long, with 50 to 70 rays.
Coloration
Transparent. Depending on the angle of light, the body can have an iridescent rainbow
color.
The body organs are enclosed in a silvery sac near the head.
52
In some specimens the body is yellowish and the upper side of the head is almost
black.
Maintenance
Water should be slightly alkaline and have a hardness, which does not surpass 10 DH.
As they are not nocturnal in their habits, they do not need a darkened aquarium.
However a cover of floating plants is recommended to dim the light.
The tank should have a moderate to strong current and be well planted.
They are also happier when kept in a group of 5 or more. Single fish do poorly
Unlike most catfish, they are not a bottom feeding species, and they seldom retrieve
food, which reaches the bottom.
They seem to enjoy getting under a broad leaf and remaining there with their fins
undulating. Although secretive and not particularly lively, its presence can act as a
useful foil to the more traditional active species.
Note:
• Swims in a characteristic 'tail-down' manner
53
Glowlight Tetra
Hemigrammus Erythrozonus
Characin
Egglayer
Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)

Tank: 4.5 gallons, 20 inches
Strata: all
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: soft to medium hard
Temperature: 24-28°C (72ºF to 82ºF).
Family: Characidae
Origin: Northeastern South America, Guyana
Social: peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, tubifex, water
fleas, dried food
Breeding: Difficult
Care: Easy
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Hemigrammus
Species: Erythrozonus
General Body Form
Generally this is a very slender species resembling the neon tetra in shape and form.
Top size is about 1.5 inches.
The abdominal area of the male curves in slightly (concave), and he is smaller and less
robust than the female.
Coloration
The anal, ventral and dorsal fins are slightly off white to translucent in coloration. In
addition the front of the dorsal fin is marked by a bright red stripe.
54
This color is repeated on the top section of the eye. The basic body color is pale
translucent olive green color.
There is a shimmering purple to red stripe starting at the base of the tail fin extending to
the mouth area. Under certain light you can see an additional golden stripe on top of the
red
Maintenance
The water should be soft and slightly acidic. The water should have a pH of 7.0 and the
temperature maintained between 72ºF and 82ºF, hardness to 20dH.
The tank can be small and decorated with live plants and some driftwood.
Will eat dry food, but this should often be augmented with live and frozen foods.
Best kept in schools of 4-6.
The Glowlight Tetra is a very popular freshwater tetra. When the lights on the aquarium
are dimmed, the red stripe on the fish can be clearly seen which lends to its name. They
are a great addition to any soft water community aquarium.
Breeding
Use a heavily planted tank (fine leafed like Myriophyllium) and reduced light levels.
Place well conditioned fish in the tank and raise the temperature to about 82°F.
The small and almost transparent eggs are scattered among the plants. The parents are
egg eaters and should be removed after spawning.
The fry will hatch in about 24 hours and are free swimming in about four days. They
should be fed baby brine shrimp or crushed flake food. It is important to change about
25% the water frequently, at least once a week.
Note
• The golden line along the body becomes brighter with age.
55
Guppy
Poecilia reticulata
Livebearer
Other Common Name: Millions fish

Size: 2.5 inches, 6cm
pH: 7.0 to 8.5, slightly alkaline
Strata: All
Hardness: Medium to hard, dH range:
10.0-30.0
Temperature: 18-28 C (64-82 F)
Family: Poeciliidae
Origin: Central America to Brazil, Trinidad, Venezuela
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Diet: Omnivore, tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Livebearer, prolific
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Atheriniformes.
Suborder: Cyprinodontoide.
Family: Poecilidae.
Genera: Poecillia
General Body Form
Males are elongated and the females are larger and plumper.
In developed strains the male will show a large caudal fin, usually brightly colored.
Coloration
Males guppies are very colorful.
Within its wide distribution range, this species has lots of natural varieties of color and
form. The variability of colors produced by selective breeding is almost infinite.
56
Typical features are large "eye" spots on the body and fins whose edges shine
iridescently in all colors of the rainbow.
Females are usually a rather dull green to yellowish-green. The scales have dark
edges that give the body a reticulate appearance.
Maintenance
An easily cared for fish that does well in all types of community aquaria. A favorite
among novices, and great for beginners.
Give them a fairly large tank with live plants and open swimming areas, avoid too much
driftwood as a rule the livebearers do not like acidic water.
Although not a schooling fish they benefit by being kept with a large number of their own
kind.
Temperature range from sixty-eight to eighty-seven degrees, water with a pH of 7 to 8.5

and hard to medium hard.
Cultivated varieties with very large fins should be kept singly. Guppies will except all
types of flake food and small live food.
Breeding
As the male matures the anal fin develops into a structure for reproduction called the
gonopodium. The gonopodium can be moved in almost any direction and stores the
sperm in packs called spermatophores.
Once the sperm is inserted into the female it fertilizes her eggs and the rest is stored in
the Oviduct walls for later use. The eggs are very rich in yolk and the young develop by
consuming their yolk stores. In light colored females pregnancy can be recognized by
the growing dark body marking in front of the anal fin.
Selected varieties only produce their attractive features if they are given plenty of space
and a varied diet. Very prolific, the females produce young every four weeks or so.
Young livebearers are fairly large at birth and their development is very advanced. They
can swim right away, which is needed to avoid their enemies including their parents who
give no natal care whatsoever. The fry grow very rapidly and will eagerly accept fine
flake food.
Note
57
• The best known of all tropical fish
58
Honey Gourami
Colisa chuna "Gold"
Anabantoid
Egglayer, Bubble nest
Other Common Name: Honeycomb Gourami

Size: 2 inches
Tank: 5 gallon, 24 inches
Strata: All
Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 5-15
pH: 6.0 – 8.0
Temperature: 22 to 28°C (72 to 82°F)
Family: Anabantoidei
Origin: India, Bangladesh
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Breeding: Egglayer - bubblenest
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Family: Osphromenidae
Genera: Colisa
General Body Form
Very similar to the readily available Dwarf Gourami (colisa Lalia), but a little more
slender and the males’ dorsal and anal fins are less pronounced.
Ventral fins are much longer than the height of the body. The back edge of the caudal
fin is indented slightly.
Coloration
59
Base color is pale ocher, with a faint silvery sheen which becomes more pronounced
towards the belly. A dark brown band runs from the eye to the beginning of the caudal
fin.
During courting males attain a very brilliant coloration; the sides of the body
including the back part of the dorsal, anal and caudal fins become bright honey-
yellow to flame red-orange.
The spiny rays of the ventral fin are orange and the anal fin has reddish tips.
Well-fed specimens can have quite vibrant colors.
Maintenance
The tank should be densely planted and also contain some floating plants if possible Its
tank-mates should be small peaceful lower tank dwelling species.
Not picky eaters, they take prepared staple food along with supplements of live and
frozen food.
Their pH should be slightly acidic, hardness is acceptable in almost all ranges.

Temperature range of mid seventies to low eighties. They dwell in the middle to upper
areas of the tank.
Males may be territorial therefore unless your tank is large enough for each to claim a
territory, only keep one male.
Breeding
Mating can usually be triggered by lowering the water level (to 6 inches or less) and
raising the water temperature. The higher water temperature should be maintained for
several weeks after hatching.
Keep water movement to a minimum so as not to disturb the bubble nest.
The Gouramis are bubble-nest egg layers. The nest is always built by the male. The
nest is made at the surface among the floating plants. The male courts the female under
the nest, where he curls around her and turns her belly-up.
The eggs are laid and fertilized in this position. The males will deposit stray eggs into
the nest then keep a constant watch.
60
He will chase away all intruders including the female, as well as keeping the nest in
constant repair. Any eggs or fry that fall from the nest will be quickly scooped up and
gently spat back into the nest.
The eggs hatch in about twenty-five to thirty hours and the fry become free swimming in
four to five days. They are very small and must be fed fine flake or live food. They grow
very quickly.
Note
• This fish usually appears almost colorless in dealers’ tanks.
61
Jack Dempsey
Cichlasoma octofasciatum
Cichlid
Egglayer
Size: to 8 inches
Tank: 48 inches
pH: 7 to 8.5
Hardness: medium hard to very hard
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: South America
Social: Agressive
Community Tank: No
Diet: Omnivore. Tubifex, water fleas, earthworms, chopped meat, fishes, dried food
Breeding: Easy, Egglayer. Adhesive eggs deposited on stones
Care: Easy, Beginner to intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Chiclidae
Genera: Cichlasoma
General Body Form
Somewhat elongated with lateral compression.
In the males the dorsal and anal fins are pointed and can reach as far back as the
middle of the caudal fin. In the females they are shorter and more rounded.
The caudal fin is fan shaped.
In older males the forehead swells to a telltale bump.
Their fin counts are: 17-19 dorsal spines, 9-10 dorsal rays; 8-9 anal spines, and 7-8
anal rays
62
Coloration
Jack Dempseys can be distinguished by the presence of two grey to black bars on the
top of their heads extending forward between their eyes. They possess a series of white
to iridescent blue spots on their median fins, head and body, and a series of dark bars
along their flanks. Their background color is dark blue.
The male "Jack" base color is a dark brown to gray-brown, which when spawning or in
top condition becomes dark blue or blue black.
On the scales on the sides there is a beautiful shinning blue or blue-green dot. The
young have a series of seven or eight faint up and down bars that usually disappear in
adults unless they are stressed or excited.
A long black longitudinal band runs from the rear edge of the gill covers to a large
yellow edged black spot in the middle of the side.
There is also a similar spot at the start of the caudal fin. The cheeks and gill covers
themselves are covered with Blue dots and the lips are a paleblue. The dorsal fin is dark
and has a thin red border.
The females are paler in color and the blue is not as intense.
Maintenance
Hardy and easy to care for “Jack” will accept all types of food.
Very temperature tolerant, they can survive temperatures in the 60’s. The tank should
have plenty of caves and nooks to hide in with driftwood and rockwork.
Jacks like to dig so use artificial plants or Java Fern anchored on the driftwood.
Provide good filtration and do frequent water changes.
Breeding
A typical open breeder which can spawn in large pits dug by the parents. They will dig
vigorously during spawning so be prepared.
The substrate should consist of fine gravel or sand. Provide a layer of floating plants if
desired. They are very prolific and a pair that has spawned together usually will do so
again and again. They are excellent parents and will provide intense brood protection.
63
The spawns can be quite large and the eggs can number in the high hundreds.
Jack Dempsey are biparental substrate spawners. Females are more active early on in
development, and are highly aggressive, even towards males, when guarding the egg
clutch
Males become more active in guarding the fry as time goes on.
Both male and female are extremely aggressive towards other fish
Note
• One of the all time favorite aquarium fish. The Jack has been around for many years
and seems to take the "test of time" very well. Pugnacious and intolerant of other
fish, they are best suited for a species tank.
64
Keyhole Cichlid
Cleithracara maronii
Cichlid
Egglayer
Size: 4 3/4" (12 cm)

Tank: 36 inches, 20 Gallons
Strata: all
pH: 6.8 to 8.0
Hardness: soft, dH range to
20.0
Temperature: 75ºF to 81ºF
(25-27°C)
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Venezuela, Guyana
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Omnivore. Earthworms,
Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae,
may take dried food
Breeding: Egglayer. Open spawner.
Intermediate
Care: Beginner-intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Cichlasomatinae
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Cleithracara
Species: maronii
General Body Form
Tall in proportion to its length the keyhole is an oval-shaped cichlid with a short body
and a forehead that is rounded.
The rear portions of the dorsal and anal fins are drawn out to a point. In the adult males
this is much more pronounced.
Coloration
65
The body has a mottled yellowish cream coloration, sometimes leaning toward brown.
Occasionally the body is marked with faint lateral lines.
A curved, dark band runs through the eye, from the front ray of the dorsal fin, down
to the corner of the gill cover.
The keyhole shaped marking, which the keyhole cichlid gets it's name from is located in
the middle of the rear half of the fish. This marking may look like a keyhole or just a
black dot.
Maintenance
Due to their extreme shyness this fish should be kept in a heavily planted tank with
many hiding places
The keyhole needs to feel secure in its tank, you should provide plenty of hiding
places in the form of caves and driftwood. Plants are also helpful.
The substrate should be fine gravel or sand and you should leave some open areas
for swimming.
They will accept all types of food including flake, frozen and live.
Not overly fond of strong currents.
Breeding
They can be one easier cichlids to breed, and have even bred in community tanks.
Several young should be placed in your tank and allowed to pair off.
They are open breeders, up to 300 eggs are deposited on a cleaned stone. The eggs
are cared for by both parents, who will fan them with fresh water and pick out the
unfertilized eggs.
Many times a pair will eat their first brood, but they will spawn again in a matter of days.
You can remove the eggs after they are laid if this continues and raise them in a
separate tank.
The fry hatch after 3-5 days and are free-swimming several days later. Start feeding
with roftiers and baby brine shrimp. The parents may continue their care for the fry for
up to six months.
Note
66
• The “Keyhole” mark becomes less pronounced as the fish gets older.
67
Kissing Gourami
Helostoma temminckii
Anabantoid
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Pink Kisser,

Green kissing Gourami
Size: 6 to 12 inches (20 -30 cm)
Tank: 55 gallons
Strata: Middle, top
pH: 6 to 8.5
Hardness: Soft to hard, 5-30dH
Temperature: 73°-81°F (23° to 27° C)
Family: Helostomatidae
Origin: Borneo, Thailand, Sumatra, India
Social: Peaceful
Communituy Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Ominivore. Tubifex, water fleas, dried
food, lettuce
Breeding: Egglayer, Difficult
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Family: Helostomatidae
Genera: Helostoma
Species: Temminckii
General Body Form
Generally oval in shape. From the front it appears very thin and compressed.
In younger fish the forehead area is dimpled. Perhaps best known for the thick lips,
these are protruded when the fish is grazing algae or demonstrating ritualistic
aggression.
The dorsal and anal fins start at the front of the body and go back to the start of the
tail fin. The tail fin is somewhat concave in shape.
68
Coloration
The basic background color of the Pink Kisser is a pale pink. There are no other
distinguishing color variations that can easily be seen. The Pink kisser is a variety of the
Green Kissing Gourami found in the wild
The Green Kissers' basic ground coloration is a shinny green interlaced with dark
reddish horizontal stripes. Two short up and down bars run across the gill covers.
In well-maintained specimens there is a dark bar that runs from the tail fin along the
dorsal and anal fins soft rays that form a border to the fish. The fins themselves are
a pale green to gray in color.
Maintenance
Kissing Gouramis need to be kept large aquariums having 55 gallons minimum.

They should be densely planted to mimic their home waters.
You can use Java fern and Java moss as well as some floating plants. Artificial
plants may be preferred, as the kissers are basically vegetarian in nature and will
consider your live plants food.
The use of driftwood and rockwork will be beneficial as these tend to promote an
area for algae growth, one of the Kissers favorite foods.
Water conditions are not overly critical and they will adapt to most aquariums, what
does seem to matter is temperature and they do best when this is not allowed to
drop below 75°F.
Breeding
Not much is known of the sexing or breeding of the kissing fish. It has been said that the
female is plumper than the male. Because of the sexing difficulty it is best to purchase a
group of at least six young and let them choose their mates.
Unlike other Anabantoids they do not construct a bubble nest. They are open water
breeders and can lay large amounts of eggs (1000+). They float to the surface and
some add a lettuce leaf for the eggs to adhere to. You should remove the parents after
spawning. The eggs hatch in a couple of days and should be fed the smallest of live
foods.
Note
69
• An active fish, which can grow quite large. The "kissing" action often seen between
two fishes is probably territorial behaviour. The protruding lips are also used for
scraping algae from the sides of the tank.
70
Kribensis
Pelvicachromis pulcher
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Dwarf Rainbow

Cichlid, Purple Cichlid, Krib
pH: 5.0 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH range 0 - 12
Temperature: 75ºF to 84ºF (24-29ºC)
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: West Africa
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Breeding: Egglayer, Easy
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidi
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Pelvicachromis
General Body Form
A fairly slender fish with slight lateral compression. The nose and head area heading
toward the back forms a gentle slope
The dorsal fin starts at or just before the pectoral fins and its rear portion is pointed in
the male, rounded in the female. The caudal fin is somewhat higher than it is long, with
its shape being generally round.
Males can reach a length of 4 inches, with the females slightly smaller.
Coloration
71
The back is brownish with either a blue or lilac sheen to it, becoming off-white to ivory
towards the belly area which also has the same sheen as the back area.
The most distinctive trait is the large rose to purple colored marking on the belly which
extends almost to the back. On the back edge of the gill covers there is a brown spot
edged with bed on top and Blue on the bottom.
The anal fin is a pale lilac
The ventral fins have bright blue front edges with blue fin rays and the body of the fins a
is violet in males and red in females.
The males’ caudal fin has one to five "eye" spots that are dark in color and edged in
yellow.
Maintenance
Easy to care for colorful fish are one of the most popular cichlids.
Unlike other cichlids they can be kept with others and they don't do the usual digging of
the substrate seen with most cichlids. The territories they establish are small so a large
tank is not needed or you can keep several in one large tank.
They prefer shallow water with lots of shelter from plants and drift wood and rock caves.
They are a very adaptable fish and will tolerate a temperature range of 77 to 82ºF. (25
to 28ºC) a pH of 5 to 7.5 and soft to hard water.
Feeding Kribs is no problem as they will accept all types of food including live, frozen
and flake. Remember they are bottom feeders by nature so be sure to provide sinking
foods occasionally.
Breeding
Although a breeding tank is recommended because of aggression while spawning, they

will breed in a community set-up. If left in a community avoid bottom dwellers that will
eat the eggs
The Krib is a typical shelter breeder that will spawn in a rock cave or an inverted
flowerpot which has narrow entrances.
Water should be slightly soft with a pH of 7 and a temperature of 80ºF.
72
Once the proper conditions exist, it takes no effort to induce spawning. Condition the
pair by feeding them a generous diet that includes live foods.
Their colors will intensify as they prepare to spawn. Generally the female will initiate
breeding by showing off her brightly colored abdomen. To entice the male she will arch
her body, curl her fins, and vibrate her body in a courtship display. Females ready to
spawn can be quite aggressive.
It is common to see the monogamous breeding pair moving gravel out of the cave just
prior to spawning. They are busy preparing the cave for the young fry. Once the pair
have prepared their nest spawning will take place within the cave, where two to three
hundred eggs will be laid. From the time the eggs are laid until the fry are free
swimming, the female will remain with the cave, coming out only very rarely to eat. The
male will patrol around the cave fastidiously protecting the female and their brood.
The red-brown eggs hatch in two to three days with both parents guarding the fry. The
babies are free swimming four to five days after hatching and are easy to raise.
The young can be feed baby brine shrimp and fine flake food.
Offer small quantities of food several times daily. The frequent feedings as well as the
wastes produced by the growing young make frequent water changes absolutely critical.
If not performed the toxins can damage or kill the fry. However, take care to avoid
adding or removing water or vacuuming the gravel in the area near the cave. Doing so
is stressful for the fish and removes infusoria that the young feed on.
As the fry become more active, both parents will usually tend them. However in some
cases one parent will take over the young and not allow the other parent near, even
going so far as to attack the non-custodial parent. When this occurs the parent not
tending the young should be promptly moved to another tank to avoid fights.
In two to four weeks the fry will reach approximately a half-inch in size and should be
separated completely from the parents.
73
Kuhli Loach
Acanthophthalmus kuhli kuhli
Other common names: Coolie Loach,

Leopard Eel, Striped Loach, Prickly Eye
Size: Up to 3 inches
Strata: bottom, substrate
pH: slightly acidic, 5 to 7
Hardness: soft to medium
Temperature: 24 to 26.5°C (74 to 80°F)
Family: Cobitidae
Origin: Sumatra; Java, Borneo
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Omnivorous, Tubifex, daphnia, dried food
Breeding: Only spontaneously in captivity
Care: Easy
Classification
Family: Cobitidae
Genera: Acanthophthalmus
General Body Form
Looks much like a worm, with slight lateral compression. Small almost unnoticeable
head with small eyes and mouth. The nasal area contains three barbels.
The body is scaleless and elongated. All fins are small and transparent.
Coloration
The most noticeable characteristic of the Kuhli are the fifteen to twenty brown orblack
bands that run from the back down to the belly area. These bands usually split into two
on the body sides.
The first band runs through the nose, the second through the eyes, the third across the
Gill plates and they end at the start of the caudal fin.
74
The background body color is a pale yellow or pink
Maintenance
Likes plenty of rockwork with coves and plants, where it searches for food with its
sensory barbels.
The Kuhli is nocturnal by nature and is generally only seen when the tank is dark,
therefore it is best kept in a well furnished tank with lots of hiding places. Due to its
burrowing habit a soft sandy substrate should be provided.
Kuhli Loaches may burrow their way down and into undergravel filters, so an alternative
filtration method such as an outside power filter should be used.
These fish are sensitive to chemicals such as those used in medicines. Use soft, acidic
water. They are a hardy fish that will adapt to most community conditions.
Kuhlis are very fond of Tubifex worms and the freeze dried variety are better to use than
the live, due to the trouble they can cause (parasites). They will also take all types of
flake and frozen food.
Often the only time you will see them is when they come out to feed.
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Lemon Cichlid
Neolamprologus leleupi
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Gold Cichlid

Size: 5" (12 cm)
Tank: 36" minimum, 20 gallon
Strata: : Bottom swimmer
pH: 7.8-9.5
Hardness: hard, dH range 12-15
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Africa - Lake Tanganyika
Social: Relatively peaceful
Community Tank: Yes, with other
medium to large fish.
Lifespan: 8 years
Diet: Carnivore, requires live foods
Breeding: Egglayer Diffucult
Care: Intermediate
General Body Form
An elongated cichlid with a set of large lips. The caudal fin is fan-shaped.
The male has a thicker head, is larger, and often has a cranial hump. The males' pelvic
fin is longer.
Coloration
A small and attractive species, this fish gets its common name from its bright yellow
appearance. It may have some darker color around the mouth and red on the gill plates
The lips are a dark yellow, and above the upper lip is a fine green line that extends
along the lip to just below the eye.
Maintenance
These Cichlids are rock dwellers and cavity spawners so they prefer an area of rocks
with caves to feel secure.
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Lemon cichlids are a relatively peaceful fish, only becoming territorial if spawning.
They will often dig when preparing to spawn, but generally will not disturb plants.
Food should include live; crustaceans, insect larvae, aquatic insects; frozen shrimp and
worm foods, daphnia, beef heart along with large flakes and pellets. This fish must be
fed a varied diet to bring out its beautiful colors.
Breeding
Pairs are formed only during the spawning season
Sexing is almost impossible, so get a group of juveniles, and let them pair off. Remove
them to a breeding tank. The pair will raise several generations of fry at once, take care
to not let the tank overcrowd though.
Lemon cichlids form monogamous pairs while spawning.
The eggs are usually laid on the roof or walls of a cave.
The fry hatch after 3-4 days and feed off their egg sacs for another three days. The
young are moved to a pit inside the cave. After five to six more days, the fry are free-
swimming and can be fed on Artemia nauplii, Cyclops nauplii, and crushed dry foods.
The fry are very sensitive to the build-up of toxic compounds, and are susceptible to
bacteria diseases
The female moves the fry when they hatch and guards them for several weeks. The
male does not care for the brood, but defends the territory.
Once the fry are free-swimming, they become quite active and will often wander away
from the territory protected by the parents.
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Lemon Tetra
Hyphessobrycon Pulchripinnis
Characin
Egglayer

Strata: Middle, top
pH: 5.5 to 8
Hardness: Soft to medium,
dH range: 3-25
Family: Characidae
Origin: Central Brazil
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Care: Easy
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Hyphessorbrycon
General Body Form
Typical for the genus, medium tall and very

compressed.
Coloration
The body is translucent with a yellow to orange color. Behind the gill cover is an orange
to red marking in reflected light.
The iris is bright orange to red.
A yellow stripe extends from the tail to the gill cover.

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The fins are transparent except for the dorsal which sometime develops a red sheen,
and the anal, which has a yellow front edging and a black ridge
The male is slender and has a broad black edge on its anal fin while the female's
remains the same color.
Maintenance
A peaceful, schooling fish that is recommended for community tanks.
Keep in groups of at least five fish.
An easily kept fish, they prefer slightly acidic water and accept almost any food type.
However its colors are best developed when fed a variety of different foods.
The tank should have open areas for swimming as well as areas with dense vegetation
for hiding.
The Lemon tetras subtle colors can be enhanced through the use of a dark substrate.
Breeding
Occasionally females have trouble expelling the eggs and so several females should be
combined with one male to increase the chance of success.
This fish can sometimes be prolific laying 100-200 eggs among plants.
Eggs are laid in fine leafed plants in the scattering method.
Adults should be removed immediately after spawning since they will begin eating the
eggs.
The eggs hatch in about twenty-four hours and the mortality rate is fairly high. They are
free-swimming in 2-3 days.
They are slow-growing and tend to hide most of the time.
Start feeding with crushed flake and small live foods.
Once the young survive the first couple of days they prove to be very hardy.
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Note:
• This fish will develop its beautiful colors only when kept in soft water that has
frequent water changes
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Leporinus
Leporinus fasciatus
Characin
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Banded

Leporinus, Black Banded
Leporinus,
pH: 5.5 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH
range 2-20
Family: Anostomidae
Origin: Central and South America
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes, if kept singly with medium to large fish
Lifespan: 5+ years
Diet: Herbivore, prefers fresh food
Breeding: Not in captivity
Care: Difficult, Intermediate to Advanced
Classification
Order: Crypriniformes
Family: Anostomidae
Genera: Leporinus
General Body Form
Bullet shaped, elongated and somewhat compressed laterally. Dorsal profile is more
convex than the ventral profile. has pointed caudal fins and ten vertical stripes
Caudal fin is pointed and transparent like all the fins.
It has large eyes and a small, pointed head and an upturned mouth for grazing algae.
The name Leporinus comes is of French origin, meaning “little hare”. Close
examination reveals two prominent front teeth much like a hare.
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Coloration
The body coloration is lemon yellow to beige and marked with 9-10 black bars. The first
extends over the forehead and through the eye, while the last extends at the base of the
tail
Males often have an orange to red throat.
Maintenance
A somewhat peaceful species that benefits from a large aquarium. Its tank-mates
should be of the same size and temperament, no long finned slower moving fish such
as Angels as they are notoriously sneaky about fin-nipping.
These folks should either be kept singly or in groups of six or more. If kept in smaller
groups, fish may fight.
Feeding is not a problem as they take prepared staple food but prefer algae; spinach,
lettuce; fruits; vegetable flake food; plants; live worms, crustaceans, aquatic insects,
and insect larvae.
Keep the tank well covered as they are great jumpers and can travel many feet.
Provide many hiding places with wood, rocks, and stones.
Use a powerful filter that creates a strong current.
The lighting should be strong to promote the growth of algae.
This fish prefers a sand bottom, but will tolerate a fine gravel substrate instead.
Live plants cannot be used, as they will be eaten
Note:
• This species swims in head pointing downwards position, grazing algae off rocks
and searching for fallen food.
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Lyretail
Aphyosemion australe
Cyranid
Egglayer
Other Common Names: Lyretail Killi,

AUS, Orange Killi, Red Killi
Size: 2.5 inches
Tank: 1 gallon
pH: 5.5-6.5
Hardness: Soft dH range: 1-8
Temperature: 20 to 24 ° C (68 to
75°F)
Family: Cyprinodontidae
Origin: Western Africa, Gabon
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 2 years
Diet: Omnivore, tubifex, water fleas,
mosquito larvae
Breeding: Easy, Egglayer
General Body Form
An elongated fish with elaborate fins. The tips of the anal, caudal, and dorsal fins are
elongated and pointed. The outer rays of the caudal fin form a 'lyre-tail' shape.
Males are more colorful, have more elongated fins, and are slightly larger
Coloration
The background body coloration of males is brownish-yellow to brownish orange. The

body is marked with numerous red spots. The fins are orange with a broad yellow and
red border.
The tips of the fins are white.
The females are brown in color with a scattering of red spots.
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Maintenance
This species prefers middle and lower water layers in tanks with soft, acid water.
Planted tank with subdued lighting and gentle circulation.
Use wood, roots, and Java Moss to serve as hiding places. Use a dark substrate,
preferably peat moss. The tank should be densely planted and a cover of floating plants
is suggested.
Use a tight-fitting cover as this species may leap.
This species prefers peat filtration.
A fine community fish to combine with other small, peaceful species. Keep this species
in pairs.
Frequent partial water changes are recommended.
Breeding
Breeding tank water should have a pH from 6.2-6.8, a water hardness from 2-6 dH, and
a temperature from 73 to 77°F (23-25°C).
Keep one female with two or three females.
Use a spawning mop or fine leafed planted along with a peat moss substrate, if
possible. The eggs are hung from plants around the tank.
Each day, 10-20 eggs are produced, for a period of 10-12 days. The peat (containing
eggs) should be removed and placed in a separate rearing tank.
Replace the peat moss in the spawning tank.
The eggs hatch 10-12 days and once their eggs sacs are consumed, they can be fed on
rotifers and small nauplii.
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Marbled Hatchet
Carnegiella strigata
Size: 1 1/2 inches (5 cm)

Tank Level: Top dweller
Strata: top
pH: 5.5 to 7.5
Hardness: soft to medium
dH range: 5-18
Temperature: 75 to 82ºF (24-28°C)
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Origin: Brazil, Guyana, Surinam
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Carnivore, prefers insects
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Family: Gasteropelecidae
Genera: Carnegiella
General Body Form
Not your typical fish shape. The belly profile from the small ventral fins to the start of the
tail fin is almost a straight line.
Has a convex body. The dorsal fin itself is far back very close to the tail. The
transparent pectoral fins are half as long as the body, turned upward and face back
which give them the look of wings.
Coloration
The coloration is usually silver with black patches. Depending on the angle of light, the
colors can change from iridescent green to iridescent violet.
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A horizontal stripe, yellow in color, extends along the top of the fish.
The back itself is a dark Black or Brown color. The fins are transparent with a slight
golden hue to them.
Maintenance
Hatchets are a peaceful fish, recommended for community tanks with other calm fish,
that swim in the lower water levels
They must be kept in schools of at least four or they seem to decline and have a much
shorter lifespan.
They are excellent jumpers so make sure you have a tight fitting cover with as few gaps
as possible.
They will do well in a tank that has good filtration and a current that runs the length of
the tank to simulate a stream. It should be arranged in dark colors and have floating
plants to diffuse the light. It is recommended to leave a 4-6" (10-15 cm) gap between
the water surface and the cover.
Floating plants as well as driftwood and open areas for swimming are needed.
Their diet should ideally consist of live mosquito larvae and fruit flies although the freeze
dried kind are also taken. They will also eat the standard flake food.
Breeding
No external differences between the sexes are apparent, although the females are
generally more rounded in the body and sometimes the white eggs can be seen in the
body cavity.
They have been bred in soft water of about slightly acidic with a pH. around 6.0. The
prospective pair should be well conditioned with a diet of black mosquito larvae and
other small crustaceans.
They deposit their eggs on the floating plants. The parents should be removed after
spawning.
The fish will spawn frequently if fed the proper diet of small flying insects.
Eggs will hatch in about thirty hours and will be free swimming after five days.
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The fry are very small and have to be feed very fine foods like Infusoria, baby brine and
crushed flakes.
The young begin to take adults shape after 20 days, and swim at all tank levels.
Notes
• Most Hatchetfish are wild-caught and thus susceptible to disease, especially "Ich"
when first introduced to the aquarium. It is wise to quarantine fish before adding
them to the main tank.
• These fish have the unique ability to glide over the water surface by rapidly beating
its pectoral fins.
• The Marbled Hatchetfish can leave the water and "fly" for up to 10 feet.
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Molly
Poecilia sphenops
Livebearer
Other Common Names/variations:

Black Molly, Short-finned Molly,
Pointed-mouth Molly, Sailfin Molly,
Yucatan Sailfin Molly, Green Molly,
Sailfin Molly, Lyretail Molly.
Size: Up to 5”, males smaller
Strata: Middle, top
pH: 7.0 to 8.5
Hardness: Medium to hard dH range: 12 - 35
Family: Poeciliidae
Origin: Mexico to Colombia
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Diet: Herbivore, Dried food, water
fleas, mosquito larvae, algae, lettuce
Breeding: Livebearer, Easy
Care: Beginner to Intermediate
Classification
Family: Poeciliidae
Genera: sphenops, latipinna, velifera
General Body Form
Poecilia sphenops:
• An elongated, laterally compressed fish with a pointed snout. The caudal fin is fan-
shaped.
• The male is slightly smaller, more colorful, and has a pointed anal fin (gonopodium).
Poecilia velifera (Mexican sailfin):
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• The Mexican Sailfin Molly is an elongated, laterally compressed fin with a large,
elaborate dorsal fin. The snout and mouth are turned upwards toward the water
surface.
Coloration
Poecilia sphenops:
• Several subspecies and color varieties are known. The best known is the "classic"
Black Molly where the back is usually olive-brown and the sides may be silvery with
a green or blue luster marked with a series of brown or Orange dots.
Poecilia velifera:
• This is one of the most beautiful livebearers you will see. The male has a large
dorsal fin or sailfin which is orange to blue with iridescent spots. The sides of the
male are bluish green to orange and covered with small shimmering scales that are
multi-colored. The coloring is highly variable
Maintenance
Tanks of 32" (80 cm) or 30 gallons (114 L) is suitable for adults. Young can be kept in
smaller tanks. The tank should be well planted with plants and add floating plants to
serve as a retreat for young. Use wood and rocks for hiding places and use a bright light
to increase algae growth
This peaceful species can be combined in a community tank with other species that can
tolerate hard, neutral to alkaline water. Best to keep one male to several females.
As a rule the livebearers do not like acidic water. Although not a schooling fish they
benefit by being kept with a large number of their own kind.
Sailfins:
• These pretty fish are best kept alone or with other Livebearers in large well planted
aquariums. They prefer a little sea salt in their water (one teaspoon to two gallons of
water). In addition to live and flake food their diet should be supplemented with some
plant material. The males large fins depend on the nutrients from the plant food and
may not develop properly if they are not received.
• An overcrowded tank will lead to stunted growth and the male may not develop their
beautiful sailfin.
• This species is more sensitive than other Mollies, and regular water changes are
essential for maintaining healthy fish. Favorable conditions are necessary for the
development of the stunning sailfin of male fish.
89
Breeding
Once the sperm is inserted into the female it fertilizers her eggs and the rest is stored in
the oviduct walls for later use. The eggs are very rich in yolk and the young develop by
consuming their yolk stores. In light colored females pregnancy can be recognized by
the growing dark body marking in front of the anal fin.
Young livebearers are fairly large at birth and their development is very advanced.
They can swim right away, which is needed to avoid their enemies including their
parents who give no natal care whatsoever.
The fry grow very rapidly and will eagerly accept fine flake food. The number of fry is
variable due to the size differences in the species, but in larger females can number
well over one hundred.
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Moonlight Gourami
Trichogaster microlepis,
Anabantoid
Egglayer, Bubblenester
Other common Name: Moonbeam Gourami

Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
Tank: 24”, 20 gallon
Tank Level: Top, Mid dweller
Strata:
pH: 6.0 - 7.0
Hardness: Soft, dH range: 2-25
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Southeast Asia: Thailand, Cambodia
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Breeding: Egglayer – bubblenest, Difficult
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Sub-Order: Anabantoidei
Family: Belontiidae
Genus: Trichogaster
General Body Form
A moderately elongated, laterally compressed fish. The long, filamentous ventral fins
are characteristic to this species, as these are far longer than any other Gouramis.
The concave slope of the head in the Moonlight Gourami also distinguishes it from other
Gourami species
Coloration
The back is olive-white with a green iridescence, and the flanks are white, marked with
a silver iridescence, not unlike the soft glow of moonlight.
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The fins are green-gray in color, while the ventral fins are yellow to red. The iris of
healthy adult specimen is red.
The pelvic fins of the male are orange to red, while those of the female are yellow.
Maintenance
A peaceful community fish that can be skittish, especially if no proper hiding places are
provided.
Although undemanding about water conditions, it does best in soft acidic water.
Because it is so tolerant of less than perfect water, it is a good beginner fish. However
the water should be changed regularly to keep to maintain good health.
A 24" (61 cm) or 10-20 gallon (38-76 L) tank is adequate for a single pair. At least a 20
gallon (76 L) is recommended for more.
Arrange the tank in dark colors with a cover of floating plants. The tank should be well-
planted along the edges, and an open swimming area should be left in the center.
Provide a retreat for each fish.
Breeding
Feeding the breeding pair live foods before attempting the breed them will increase your
chances for success.
The female should also be provided with a thicket of fine-leaved plants into which she
may flee if the male shows too much aggressiveness.
The Moonlight Gourami is an egglayer that builds a bubble nest as most Labyrinth fish
do.
They should be provided a separate breeding tank, as other fish consider eggs and
small babies (fry) a tasty snack. T
he ideal breeding tank has very soft water that has been reduced to a depth of about six
inches. pH should be slightly acidic, and the temperature should be raised to at least 80
degrees over a period of several days to trigger spawning. Use dark gravel and provide
plenty of floating plants for building the bubble nest.
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The male begins the spawning process by carefully preparing a bubble nest. He then
begins to court the female under it. This courtship dance is a fascinating display that
should not be missed.
Spawning culminates in the male wrapping himself around the female. While in this
embrace the male turns the female on to her back, which triggers her to release eggs.
Up to 2000 eggs may be laid during the spawning, which the male fertilizes as they float
up to the nest. In the safety of the bubble nest the eggs incubate for two to three days
before hatching.
Once the eggs hatch, the fry must be fed very fine foods several times daily. Most
losses of fry are due to lack of adequate food or low water temperature.
Live foods such as daphnia, artemia, and rotifers, are ideal. However very finely
chopped lettuce, banana skins, and finely ground flake food can be used to feed the
young (and are usually easier to find).
Keep the water temp in the low to mid 80's while the fry are growing
The fry are very sensitive to changing water conditions and often thereafter. Good
filtration is necessary. It is recommended not to change water until the fry are over 1/2"
Note:
• In Southeast Asia the Moonlight Gourami is more likely to be a meal than a pet!
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Neon Tetra
Paracheirodon innesi
Characin
Freshwater
Size: Up to 1.5" (4cm)

pH: 5.5 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH
range: 1–25
Temperature: 68ºF to 78ºF (20-
25°C)
Family: Characidae
Origin: South America: Western
Brazil, Northern Peru and Colombia
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: flake and frozen food.
Breeding: Difficult
Care: Easy
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Paracheirodon
General Body Form
A slender fish somewhat spindle shaped with little lateral compression. The nose is
blunt and the belly area seems to be rounded in the females and concave in the males.
Coloration
Starting at about the center of the body, there is a wide bright red band extending to the
start of the caudal fin. Above this is a blue band with a green sheen that runs from the
upper part of the eye to the adipose fin.
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The upper-side is olive-green and the underside is Silver in color. The anal fin is milky
white to transparent.
Maintenance
A peaceful fish ideal for a community tank. Do not keep the Neon Tetra with
substantially larger fish such as Angels, for the neon may get eaten. Keep this fish in
groups of five or more
The lighting should be dimmed by a cover of floating plants. The tank should be well-
planted and have a dark gravel substrate.
Breeding
Egg scatterer, requires soft, very clean water. Failures in breeding are in most cases
due to unsuitable water conditions.
To spawn them, you will need a small tank placed in a dark spot as the eggs seem to be
light sensitive, a 2 inch layer of half inch rock and some bunches of fine textured live
plants like Myriophyllium are suitable as the spawning medium.
Water should have a pH of 5-6, a temperature of 75-77°F (24-25°C), and a hardness of

1-5 dH.
Only young fish should be used for breeding.
They usually spawn early in the morning. The clear eggs are laid among the plants and
barely stick to them. In 22 to 26 hours the eggs hatch and the fry are very hard to spot,
but appear 3-4 days later at which time they are free swimming and will need to be fed
infusoria. The species is not very prolific and a good spawn would be 40-50 fry.
Remove the parents after spawning.
Leave the eggs in the dark tank to keep down the growth of fungus.
The fry hatch after 24 hours.
The young are free swimming after five days, after which time they can be fed crushed
flakes and paramecia.
Notes:
• Susceptible to incurable neon disease.
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• Among the most popular of tropical freshwater aquarium fish.
• Neon tetras are sensitive during acclimation. During this period neons are most
likely to expire. After the initial week or two, the fish become adjusted and are fairly
hardy.
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Oscar
Astronotus ocellatus
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Comman Names : Tiger Oscar, Velvet

Cichlid
Size: 13+ inches (30+ cm)
Tank: 55 gallons
Strata: Bottom, Middle
pH: 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Hardness: Soft to hard, dH range: 5- 19
Temperature: 75°- 86°F (24° to 30° C)
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: South America: Paraguay
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes, with other larger fish
Lifespan: 10+ years
Diet: Carnivore, flake frozen, pellets, kitchen scraps and of course live
Breeding: Moderately difficult
Care: Intermediate (because of size of tank required)
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percidae
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Astronotus
General Body Form
The body is moderately compressed and oval shaped. Very robust body.
Dorsal fin starts above the gill slits. The caudal fin is rounded, while the anal and dorsal
fins are often pointed.
Coloration
Several different color variations are available, although the common form is fairly
uniform. Juvenile fish are gray to black in color with a pink marbled-ring pattern on the
97
body. Adult fish have a olive back with black and orange lower parts. An obvious tail-
spot can be seen near the caudal penuncle.
Background color of mature specimens is dark olive-green, brownish black or blue-

black. This pattern is broken up into large random spots and black band edged with pale
white or yellow.
The dorsal fin can have a few eye spots and males may also have three small basal
spots in the spiny portion. The caudal fin can have red-golden spots and a very jet black
spot edged with red at its base.
Maintenance
A peaceful cichlid despite its large size. Many make the mistake of placing the Oscar in
tanks with fish that are too aggressive. The Oscar should be combined in a large
community aquarium with other similarly sized companions. Pairs become aggressive
while spawning and participating in brood care. As most cichlids, Oscars will burrow in
the substrate.
The tank should be large-at least a 55 gal with a medium textured substrate. Keep
plants to a minimum and provide flat rocks and pieces of driftwood for cover.
If you want to use plants large leaf varieties of lilies or some floating plants are
suggested.
Feeding as you would expect is no problem as Oscars will take all types of food
including Live fish, earthworms, Tubifex, large insects, aquatic insects, large
crustaceans; chopped meat; pellets; tablets and spinach. The Oscar is a greedy and
messy eater.
Do not restrict your Oscars diet to feeder goldfish as these do not provide all the needed
nutrients.
The tank should have a deep substrate with some large rocks. Plants must be potted
and robust with their stems and root protected with rocks. Arrange heaters so that they
will not become unattached from the tank glass. The tank must have powerful filtration
Breeding
Breeding usually only takes place in a very large tank (i.e. 150 gallon-568 L). The water
must be kept clean and at a warm temperature of 79-86°F (26-30°C).
Once a pair bonds, it may remain together for over ten years, spawning on a regular
basis.
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As many as 2000 opaque, white eggs are laid on previously cleaned rocks. The eggs
look like they have fungus, although the clear up after 24 hours. If the eggs do not clear
up in this time, they probably do have fungus. Both parents participate in brood care.
The eggs hatch after three to four days, and the larvae are moved to shallow pits. There
the young remain until they are free-swimming six to seven days later.
The hatched fry are looked after and fiercely guarded until the egg sac is absorbed and
the young are free swimming.
Sometimes the young may affix themselves to the flanks of the parents.
Start feeding with roftiers, Artemia nauplii, and Cyclops nauplii.
The young grow quickly and are large enough for sale at 1" (2.5 cm).
Notes:
• Care is moderately difficult because this carnivore reaches a large size and requires
a good-sized tank. Do not buy this fish with intentions of keeping it in your 10-, even
20-gallon, tank.
• Oscars are well known for their fondness of their keeper. After a few months, the
Oscar can recognize its owner and without concern, take food right from the
keeper's hand.
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Paradise Fish
Macropodus opercularis
Anabantoid
Egglayer, Bubble Nest
Other Common Name: Paradise Gourami

Size: up to 4" inches
Strata: Top, middle
pH: 6.8 to 8.0
Hardness: Soft to hard, dH range: 4-30
Family: Anabantidae
Origin: Korea, China, Taiwan and Malaysia.
Social: Peaceful but territorial
Community Tank: No
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Carnivore. Small live, or any
prepared.
Breeding: Easy, Bubble Nester
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Belontiidae
Genera: Macropodus
General Body Form
Some what long and slender, the fins are its distinguishing traits. The soft ray parts of
the anal and dorsal fins extend to form long string like filament.
The tail fin is concave with the upper and lower sections extending further out . The
males are easy to identify by their thick swollen lips.
Coloration
The coloration varies, although generally the male has a turquoise-gray to green-brown
head and back. The body color is dull turquoise with numerous vertical orange stripes.
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The gill cover and caudal penuncle are also marked with orange. The caudal fin has an
orange and turquoise marbling, while the other fins are light blue.
The gill cover is striped in black boarded by bright red or orange. The tail fin can be
stunning. It is completely red and with the fringes extending out make a fantastic
display.
The dorsal and anal fins are dark in color and fade to a red hue as they near the tail fin.
The ventral fins are also red in hue and can be tipped in white.
The females are considerably duller with shorter rounded fins and only the side bars are
well defined.
Maintenance
20" (50 cm) or 10 gallons (38 L) is adequate for smaller fish. Full grown specimen need
a larger tank with a minimum size of 24" (60 cm) or 20 gallons (75 L). Provide retreats
for the female. The tank should be well-vegetated. Fish prefer large tank with lots of
open swimming area. A partial cover of floating plants is beneficial to aide in bubble
nest building.
If included in a community tank, they must be kept with other similar sized semi-
aggressive fish. They will eat smaller fish and rip the fins of the slower fish like the
Angel.
A tight-fitting cover is a must as they are accomplished jumpers.
Like the Betta males will fight each other often to the death, so only keep one per tank.
This species adapts readily to a wide range of foods, including small live foods, such as
bloodworms, tubifex worms, earthworms, glass worms and brine shrimp. A favorite meal
of the Paradise fish is planeria.
They also accept the common flake and frozen foods. It is a good idea to supplement
their diets with Spirulina based foods to provide vegetable matter.
Paradise Fish are rather hardy. They can survive in temperatures ranging from 50 to
90°F. A temperature of 65 to 70° is recommended, however, as warm water shortens
the life span of the Paradise Fish.
Breeding
101
Breeding is fairly easy. Take a strong, established pair and place them in a tank alone.
Initiate spawning by lowering the water level to simulate summer conditions and
increasing the temperature to 75-84°F (24-29°C).
The male will build a bubble nest to house the eggs during spawning.
After an active courtship, the eggs float to the surface where the male collects them and
spits them into the bubble nest.
The female should be removed at that point.
The eggs, numbering as many as 1000, are guarded aggressively by the male. They
hatch in 24-28 hours and are free-swimming after 3-5 days.
The male should now be removed.
Start feeding with powdered dry foods and infusoria, and later with Artemia.
Notes
• The Paradise Fish was among the first introductions to the aquarium. It was the
second tropical fish-behind the goldfish-to be imported into France (1869).
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Pearl Gourami
Trichogaster leeri
Anabantoid
Egglayer, Bubblenest
Other Comman Names: Lace Gourami,

Mosaic Gourami, Leeri Gourami, Platinum
Gourami
Size: to 4” (10 cm)
Tank: 24”, 20 gallon minimum
Strata: All
pH: 5.5 to 8
Hardness: soft to hard,dH range: 5-30
Temperature: 74-82 ºF (24-28 ºC)
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Southeast Asia: Malaysia,
Thailand, Borneo, Sumatra
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 8+ years
Diet: Omnivorous, Tubifex, water fleas,
mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Easy, Egglayer, bubblenest
General Body Form
An elongated, oval shaped fish with lateral compression.
The ventral fins are filamentous and the anal fin runs from just beyond the ventral fins
nearly to the indented fan-shaped, caudal fin. The dorsal fin is shorter than some other
“gourami” species and runs from the mid-back to caudal penuncle.
The males are more colorful and have pointed dorsal fins
Coloration
The back of a male is olive brown, while the flanks are brown to brownish red. The
flanks are littered with numerous, over-laying dots that are pearl to iridescent violet in
color.
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A black lateral stripe extends from the lips to the caudal penuncle, although in some
specimens, this stripe is inconspicuous.
The throat and belly are bright orange red to red in color.
The fins have the same pattern as the flanks, save for the ventral fins which are orange-
red in color.
Females are blander, although they also have the pearl pattern over-laying their flanks.
Maintenance
24" (61 cm) or 10-20 gallon (38-76 L) tank is adequate for a single pair. At least a 20
gallon (76 L) is recommended for more.
Arrange the tank in dark colors with a cover of floating plants. The tank should be well-
planted along the edges, and an open swimming area should be left in the center.
Provide a retreat for each fish.
Like all Labyrinth fish, the Pearl Gourami prefers shallow tanks
Keep them in pairs and the fish will display to each other and show off their best colors.
Tank mates should be slower moving peaceful species. Provide good filtration with a
slow water flow (like from a spraybar) so as not to disturb any Bubblenest.
Pearls are omnivorous and will take live, flake, frozen as well as vegetable based food.
The Pearl Gourami will be harassed, stop eating, and loose color if combined with
aggressive species (cichlids). Otherwise an excellent community fish.
Males may harass females during the spawning season. If this occurs, separate the pair
because the male may injure or kill the female.
Males are territorial towards one another.
Breeding
The water level should be reduced to 4-6" (10-15cm) and no water current should be
present.
Condition the pair with insect larvae, Artemia, and Daphnia.
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The male builds a large bubble nest (occasionally over 10" in diameter) at the water's
surface in floating plants. After an active courtship spawning takes place beneath the
nest. Here the male wraps his body around the female and 200-300 clear eggs are laid.
Spawning may continue for extended periods-even weeks.
These float up to the bubble nest, and are corralled by the male. The male also guards
them.
Remove the female at this time.
The eggs hatch after 20-30 hours. The fry remain in the nest for 4-5 days.
Feed the fry liquid food or infusoria culture several times a day.
Freshly hatched (or frozen) brine shrimp may be offered at about two weeks of age.
Fine flake foods may be offered once they are approximately one month old.
Water changes should be performed every two to three days.
As the fry grown larger they should be distributed between several tanks to reduce
lethal build up of wastes. Poor growth or sudden loss of fry is often due to excessive
waste.
The fry are slow-growing.
Notes
• Like other Gouramis, the Pearl Gourami possesses taste cells at the tips of the
ventral fins.
• Breeding is moderately difficult due to the difficulty in finding a suitable pair. Once a
pair is found, spawning comes fairly easily.
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Penguin Fish
Thayeria obliqua
Characin
Egglayer
Other Common names: Penguin Tetra,

Honey Stick Tetra
Size: up to 2 1/2 inches (8 cm)
Tank: 32”, 30 gallons
Strata: Middle, top
pH: 5.5 to 7.0
Hardness: soft to hard, dH range: 4-20
Temperature: 73° to 82°F (22-28°C)
Family: Characidae
Origin: The Amazon basin: Peru and Western Brazil
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Difficult
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Thayeria
General Body Form
A rather long fish with much lateral compression. The bottom of the caudal is slightly
longer, giving the penguin its one of a kind look.
Coloration
The general black and white appearance is what gave rise to the name of this popular
fish.
It has a base body color of brown to golden. The belly is white to silver.
A broad black stripe extends from behind the dorsal fin down the tip of the lower flank of
the tail.
106
The other fins are transparent.
A golden stripe extends from the gill cover to the base of the tail.
Maintenance
The tank should be arranged in dark colors and have a cover of floating plants. Have
well-planted areas for hiding, and leave open swimming areas.
The water should be well-aerated.
The addition of some vegetable matter in the food is beneficial.
They are adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, although it has been said that
they are sensitive to high nitrate levels.
The tank should be loosely planted with plenty of open space for swimming. They swim
at an angle facing up and are a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of at least
six.
An all around winner for the community aquarium.
Breeding
The “obliqua” is very difficult to breed. However, their cousin the “boehlkei” or “False
Penguin Fish” is often sold as a Penguin Fish.
If you happen to have one of these, here’s the breeding instructions:
A very prolific breeder often having broods of over 1000, a fairly large breeding tank is
needed.
The substrate should consist of fine leafed plants to catch the large number of eggs.
Females when ready to spawn have a very distended belly due to the large number of
eggs.
After spawning the pair should be removed and a portion of the water should be
changed due to the large amount of sperm released by the male which could foul the
water.
The eggs hatch in less than a day and the fry are very small and need to be fed the
smallest of foods available.
Note:
107
• A common characin which swims in the characteristic 'tail-down' position.
108
Platy
Xiphophorus Maculatu
Poecilidae
Livebearer
Other Common Names: Moonfish,

Topsail Platy, Rainbow Platy
Strata: Middle
pH: 7.0 to 8.3
Hardness: medium to hard, dH range: 10-28
Temperature: 68-79°F (20-26°C)
Family: Poecilidae
Origin: East Mexico, Guatemala
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 3-5 years
Diet: Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Easy
Care: Beginner
Classification
Suborder: Cyprinodontoide
Family: Poecilidae
Genera: Xiphophorus
General Body Form
A laterally compressed fish with and upturned mouth. The body may be elongated and
the caudal fin in generally fan-shaped.
Some specimens are elongated with both dorsal and ventral profiles slightly curved out
or convex, but mostly they are thick-bodied with a high back.
The dorsal fin has nine or ten fin rays, except for the high-fin varieties.
Males are smaller with a gonopodium
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Coloration
The original form had a dark brown-olive back with bluish flanks. The flanks are often
marked with two to five transverse stripes. The belly is whitish.
Most Platies now available are selectively produced. Now the range of colors and fin
shapes is almost unlimited with variations showing up almost on a monthly basis.
Varieties that have remained popular in the hobby include the Red Wagtail Platy,
Tuxedo Platy and many variations on the high fin theme.
Maintenance
Platies are a peaceful community fish. Provide a fairly large tank with live plants and
open swimming areas. Avoid too much driftwood as a rule the livebearers do not like
acidic water.
kind.
Breeding
An easily bred fish, although the young are hard to protect unless a breeding trap or
other means of refuge is used.
This species is sexually mature at four months
the oviduct walls for later use.
The eggs are very rich in yolk and the young develop by consuming their yolk stores. In
light colored females pregnancy can be recognized by the growing dark body marking in
front of the anal fin.
After a gestation period of four to six weeks, the mother gives birth to 50-120 young.
give no natal care whatsoever.
110
The fry grow very rapidly and will eagerly accept fine flake food.
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Plecostomus
Hypostomus Plecostomus
Catfish
Other common names: Pleco, Plec,

Suckermouth Catfish
Size: up to 20 inches!
Strata: bottom
pH: 6.5 to 7.5
Hardness: soft to medium, dH range: 1-30
Temperature: 72 to 86°F (23-30°C)
Family: Loricariidae
Origin: Amazonia, in Peru, Bolivia and Paraguay
Social : Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 15+years
Diet : Herbivorous
Care: Beginner
Classification
Order: Siluriformes
Family: Loricariidae
Genera: liposarcus
General Body Form:
The Pleco is elongated and has an almost flat belly and a convex back area. The most
prominent feature is the large dorsal fin, which has one large ray and seven, soft rays,
which can be easily seen when it is extended.
It is covered everywhere but the belly with large bony plates.
The head is large, broad, and flat.
The mouth is located on the underside of the head and is shaped like a suction cup. It
has one pair of barbels.
They can grow quite large but usually stay smaller in all but the biggest aquaria.
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Coloration:
The color varies depending on the age, species, and environment the individual came
from.
Usually the body has a base color of light brown to black. The fish can be spotted,
striped, splotched, or one solid color. The fins are the same color as the rest of the
body.
Maintenance:
The Plecostomus Catfish, is a long time aquarium favorite.
The main attraction of this fish is its ability to keep the aquarium free of algae. It
accomplishes this by "sucking" at the aquarium glass or decorations with its strong,
under-turned mouth
A peaceful fish that can be kept in a community tank with small to large fish, including
cichlids. Does not get along with own species. Each fish sets up territories to defend.
Young fish can be kept together while adults become aggressively territorial.
A tank of 20" (60 cm) or 10 gallons (38 L) is sufficient for young individuals, those under
4" (10 cm). Eventually they must be moved to larger tanks. The tank should have open
swimming areas and hiding places of rocks, wood, caves, and wood.
The Plecos are all twilight animals and are most active at this time.
Avoid keeping the fish in extreme pH levels or temperatures and it will usually thrive.
Plecos should not have to rely on naturally growing algae alone as their only diet. As
they mature they lose their algae eating tendencies somewhat and must be fed a basic
diet of sinking herbivorous foods. Lettuce or zucchini strapped to a rock with a rubber
band makes a great snack for your Pleco. Dried algae tablets can also be purchased
and make a great daily food. Plecos will generally leave plants alone providing they get
enough vegetable matter in the diet.
Breeding
While not bred in captivity, the Plecostomus are bred in mass quantities in Singapore,
Florida, and Hong Kong in large ponds with steep sides.
A pair will dig a burrow, in which, they spawn about 300 eggs.
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The ponds are drained and the parents and their young are removed. This fish is also
often bred in Bangkok in fish hatcheries.
Note:
• Plecs are often eaten in native countries
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Red-Bellied Piranha
Serrasalmus nattereri
Characin

pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Family: Serrasalmidae
Origin: Guyana, South America
Social: Aggressive, keep alone or in schools
Community Tank: No
Lifespan: 10 years
Diet: Carnivore, prefers live foods
Care: Difficult
Classification
Genera: Pygocentrus
General Body Form
Similar to the more common Silver Dollar, but more elongated. The body height is about
one half the body length. Their predatory nature is reflected by their powerful teeth and
fleshy lips.
The caudal fin is distinctly forked, the adipose fin is lobed shaped and fringed and the
Ventral fin is ragged like a saw. They get quite large and can reach up to thirteen inches
in length.
Coloration
The color can vary depending on location and age. The sides are pale brown to slightly
olive. Some of the small scales can produce an intense golden yellow reflection.
115
The body can have some variable dark markings across it in no particular pattern. The
back is blue-gray to brownish and the throat and belly areas are blood red in healthy
specimens. The ventral, pectoral and anal fins are also bright red. The caudal and
dorsal fins are gray.
Maintenance
Although they appear quite robust, they are not an easy specimen to keep. Even in a
very large aquarium an acclimated fish can suddenly become aggressive.
The tails of their own species and of larger fish will be bitten off, causing possible
disease threats.
They can be fed worms and young specimens will take other live food as well. Their
water should be soft and acidic, with a good amount of water movement in the tank.
The fish of this sub-family are generally large and inhospitable towards small fish and
live plants. Most species will readily devour live feeders and chopped meat, along with
plant or vegetable based foods.
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Red Tailed Shark
Labeo Bicolor
Cyprind
Egg Scatterer
Other Common Names: Red-Tailed

Black Shark; Red-Tailed Labeo
Size: up to 6" (15cm)
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: Thailand
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 10+ years
Diet: All foods, tubifex, algae, mosquito larvae, dried food
Breeding: Very difficult
Care: Beginner
Classification
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Labeo
General Body Form
Elongated fish with slight lateral compression. The mouth faces downward and two
pairs of barbels are present.
It has a large dorsal fin, usually held upright with its outer back edge concave. Belly
profile slightly curved and the back is very convex.
The female is less colorful and larger. The male is slimmer and has an elongated dorsal
fin.
Coloration
117
The main body color is black which provides an impressive contrast with the striking
bright red tail.
Specimens kept in unsuitable conditions are paler.
Maintenance
A fish that can be kept easily in the home aquarium for many years. It Can be kept in a
community tank. Keep only one specimen to a tank, because this species is very
aggressive to their own and other similar looking species. Keep more than one
individual in large tanks (i.e. tanks over 50 gallons). The Red-tailed Shark establishes a
territory to defend aggressively. Older fish may become aggressive towards all other
fish.
Use a tank measuring 36" (91 cm) with a capacity of 35 gallons (132 L) is sufficient.
Provide multiple hiding places with caves, wood, roots, and rocks.
Use a fine gravel or sand substrate for this species will burrow. The tank should be well-
planted with robust plants and have dim lighting. They also benefit from frequent water
changes.
Diet should be balanced with a good flake food, occasional live food and supplemented
with some vegetable matter.
Breeding
Breeding is difficult because of their aggressive behavior towards their own species.
They are not bred often, although it has been in accomplished in peat filtered water with
a pH of 6.8.
Use dim light or no light. They spawn in rocky caves and fry hatch after 30 to 60 hours.
The fry are free swimming after four days. Start feeding with small live foods.
Their colors change from silvery to silvery brown, to brown and finally to black. The red
tail develops after 7 to 10 weeks.
Most breeding is done in open ponds in their native Thailand and exported around the
world.
Notes:
118
• Many natives make a living catching Red-Tailed Black Sharks in their native
countries.
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Rosy Barb
Barbus conchonius
Cyprind
Size: to 6 inches (15 cm)

Strata: All
pH: 6.5 to 7.5
Hardness: soft to hard, dH range: 2-10
Temperature: 64° to 79°F (18-26°C)
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: Bengal, India
Social: Active peaceful fish
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Breeding: Egglayer
Classification
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Barbus
General Body Form
The Rosy Barb has no barbels and has slight lateral compression.
A fairly tall much compressed fish that seem to get taller as it ages.
Females are larger and more robust.
Coloration
The back is copper to green-gold.
The flanks are bright orange to red and metallic looking. Near the caudal penuncle is a
black spot.
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The reddish fins may be elaborate with the anal and dorsal fins have black borders
along the upper-parts.
Males turn a deep, but bright red color at spawning times.
The males’ dorsal fin is edged in black with the female only having a trace at the rear of
the fin. Both sexes have shiny scales with an olive green color and pale centers.
Maintenance
A lively, schooling species that may disturb quieter species in a community tank. Adults
may nibble fine or soft leafed plants.
The tank should be fairly large as this like most barbs is an active swimmer and needs
plenty of open spaces. Plant toward the rear and include some floating material if you
desire.
The Rosy will dig and forage in the gravel, so it should be fairly fine and rounded.
Water conditions are not to critical as they will adapt to wide variations in chemistry and
temperature.
They will eat a variety of foods: live; brine shrimp, insect larvae; Tubifex, flying insects;
flakes; spinach
Breeding
Breeding the Rosy bard is fairly easy. The water should be well aged and have a neutral
pH.
Use a breeding tank with a substrate of marbles and furnished with many fine-leafed
plants.
The water should have a temperature between 73-79°F (23-26°C) and a water level of
only three to eight inches.
Add one male and two females to the tank during the evening.
As part of the active morning courtship, they will chase each other around and the
spawning will take place in one of the plants.
The pair will wrap themselves around each other and shake until the eggs are laid. This
will happen several times and the number of eggs laid can be very large.
121
They are notorious egg-eaters and the trio should be removed immediately after
spawning.
The tank should be covered with dark paper so the chances of fungal infections is
reduced.
The eggs hatch after 24-30 hours and the fry can be fed with roftiers, liquid foods, and
powdered flakes foods after their yolk sac is finished.
Growth is rapid and the young are easy to care for.
Keep up the water changes as the fry require better water than the adults.
Notes:
• Fish are sensitive to large amounts of new water, so frequent partial water changes
should be made.
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Rummy Nosed Tetra
Hemmigrammus blehri
Characin
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Red Nosed

Tetra
Size: to 2.5 inches
Strata: Middle
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to neutral, 2-8 dH
Family: Characidae
Origin: Brazil, Colombia
Social: Peaceful and schooling fish
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Omnivore, tubifex, water fleas, dried
food
Breeding: Very Difficult, Egglayer
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Family: Characidae
Genera: Hemigrammus
General Body Form
Torpedo shaped, elongated body.
Coloration
The body is silver to olive brown in color. A gold to brown stripe extends from the red
area on the head to the base of the tail.
Oddly enough, the Rummy Nosed Tetra sports an iris and snout that are blood red
when good water maintenance are maintained. The mouth is also red.
123
The distinctive tail has three black stripes and four white ones.
The other fins are transparent.
The red nose is actually the best indication of the fish's health and well-being--when it is
feeling ill at ease or not in tiptop shape (for example, when first introduced to the tank),
this red will fade to a dull pink, barely distinguishable from its unremarkable gray body
color.
Maintenance
An active, peaceful, species recommended for a community tank. Keep in schools of

five or more fish.
The tank should be well planted and arranged in dark colors. Leave open swimming
areas. The Rummy Nose Tetra is best kept in a tank with peat filtration.
The rummy-nose tetra is an excellent fish for the community tank once it is adjusted to
its surroundings, but this initial adaptive phase can be a bit longer than for some fish. In
the meantime, it tends to be sensitive to water quality, so test this frequently. It does not
take well to addition of salt and many chemical additives, and pH fluctuations can kill it.
Healthy species will adapt eventually to a well-planted tank and school actively in and
out of every corner of the aquarium, their noses glowing brightly.
Breeding
This is a delicate fish and is very hard to breed and the fry are difficult to rear.
If you still want to make an attempt…
Provide a large tank with lots of plants and very soft water. In most cases, these fish
can be bred in a heavily-planted breeding tank with no artificial light (excessive light
appears to be detrimental for the eggs and the fry
Several pairs of about 1 year of age should be placed together. After a long period of
acclimation and conditioning (several daily feedings of insect larvae) they may spawn.
The pair should spawn within three days of their introduction into the tank. If the pair
does not spawn within three days, they are not ready, and the process should be
repeated.
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A small number of eggs are produced which will hatch in about 30 hours and be free
swimming after 4 days.
In all cases, the parents will try to consume their eggs as they are laid. Thus, the
parents should be removed right after spawning. . To prevent parents from eating eggs
as they are laid, feed them whiteworms
After hatching the fry should be fed on small live foods (Infusoria, brine shrimp nauplii,
roftiers, microorganisms) and crushed flake foods.
The fry are difficult to raise
Notes:
• Regular water changes must be performed and a good water conditioner should be
used. This fish is somewhat susceptible to “Ich”.
• The male's anal fin bears tiny hooks - beware of these catching on nets if removing
the fish from the water.
• This species is often confused with H. rhodostomus and Petitella georgiae. These
species are hard to distinguish from one another and are often sold under the wrong
name. H. rhodostomus is slightly less colorful, but easier to keep and breed.
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Scat
Scatophagus argus
Perch
Brackish water
Other Common name: Argusfish, Spotted Scat

Size: up to 12 inches
Tank: 40 gallons
Strata: Middle
pH: 7.5 to 85
Hardness: hard
Temperature: 22 to 26.5 ° C (72 to 80 ° F)
Family: Scatophagidae
Origin: East Indies
Social: Fairly Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes..if Brackish.
Lifespan: 15+ years
Diet: Tubifex, water fleas, mosquito larvae,
dried food
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Scatophagidae
Genera: Scatophagus
General Body Form
A stocky, tall bodied fish with lateral compression and an arched back. The front part of
the dorsal fin is low to the body and the caudal fin is fan-shaped.
Both the head and the mouth are small.
Very tall and circular, becoming rounder as they mature. The fish’s lateral line runs
parallel with the ridge of the dorsal fin.
The hard rays on the dorsal fin are said to be mildly venomous and can cause much
discomfort if they pierce the skin.
126
Coloration
The coloration varies with age and slightly with distribution. Generally the flanks are
yellow to brown with a greenish-yellow iridescence. The flanks are marked irregularly
with black spots. The fins are body colored.
As the fish matures it loses most of its striking color and the body tuns a dull silver with
the large black spots. It has been said that these colors are brighter and more
pronounced when the fish is kept in salt water.
Maintenance
The Scat is fairy easy to keep. They require a large tank with plenty of room for
swimming. This hardy species requires brackish water conditions.
A 36" (91 cm) or 35-45 gallon (132-170 L) tank is suitable for fish up to 6" (15 cm) in
length. Larger fish require more spacious tanks
Use a fine gravel or preferably a coral sand bottom. Include hiding places among rocks
and leave open swimming areas.
In addition to the water chemistry it is recommended to add a 1.5 to 3% addition of salt.

Add 11-23 Tsp. of salt for every 10 gallons (15-30 g/10 L).
A peaceful, but active schooling species that should be kept in groups of four or more.
The Scat is a fine brackish or salt water community species as long as it is not
combined with small fish.
They are really omnivorous and will eat almost anything! (Live; small fish, crustaceans,
worms, insect larvae, aquatic insects; chopped meat; plant matter; vegetable; lettuce,
spinach, peas; oatmeal; pellets; tablets; flakes.)
They have been known to consume nearly any plants put in the tank. Thus Java Fern,
which is poisonous, should not be used.
Although they are a timid fish they can be taught to take food from your fingers.
Excellent filtration is needed as well as frequent vacuuming of the gravel substrate.
Water changes are a must as young specimens do not tolerate high levels of nitrates.
As they mature they will have to be moved to a pure sea water tank, but this process
can take many years.
127
Breeding
In the wild it is believed that they spawn on coral reefs and the young migrate to the
freshwater and brackish areas near river estuaries. When they mature they return to the
open sea.
Notes
• The Scatophagidae, Scat, or Argus-fish family consists of the genus Scatophagus,
and is distributed throughout brackish water and marine environments along the
coasts of Asia, Australia, and Africa. The fry of this family pass through a sort of
metamorphosis of having a large head and a body covered with bony plates.
• The addition of salt gives the fish better health and coloration. Young Scats can be
kept in fresh or brackish water, but adults prefer salt water as they live mostly in the
ocean. These fish consume great quantities of food, therefore regular water changes
are essential. Scats undergo a metamorphosis while young. The young have large
heads and sturdy bony plates in the larvae stage. As they mature, their armored
plating undergoes a change resulting in the familiar body cladding of adult fish. The
Scat is known for its habit of feeding on ocean sewage in its natural habitat, hence
the name Scatophagus (dung-eater).
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Severum
Heros severus
Cichlid
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Banded

Cichlid
Tank Level: Bottom dweller
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH range: 4 - 15.
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: South America: Amazon Basin
Social: Relatively peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 10 years
Diet: Carnivore
Care: Easy
Classification
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Percoidei
Family: Cichlidae
Genera: Heros
General Body Form
An oval-shaped, laterally compressed cichlid with large red eyes, and a small mouth.
The nose and forehead are steep.
The soft part of the dorsal and anal fins are long and pointed. In the male the anal fin
reaches to the rounded edge of the caudal fin.
The dorsal and anal fins are shorter in the female.
The ventral fins in both sexes are elongated.

129
Coloration
The body coloring depends on the geographic location The most common has an olive
green back with gold-green flanks. The belly and lower parts are a deep brick red.
Seven to eight stripes, although often barely visible, mark the body. These are more
prominent on juvenile fish, although some adults may retain a similar patter
The female is usually paler and lacks the pattern on the head.
The stripes tie together a large pale-edged black spot on the soft rayed part of the
dorsal fin with a like spot on the anal fin.
On the sides each scale seems to be marked with a brown-red dot giving the fish a
beautiful sheen.
The head of the males has a pattern of red, brown and blue-green markings.
The iris of the eyes is a distinctive red.
The caudal fin is yellow-green to gray-green and sometimes there is a band across the
base of the fin.
The ventral and dorsal fins are dark in color and lighten to an olive green color in the
soft areas.
Maintenance
A peaceful fish that can be kept in a community tank with other non-aggressive, medium
to large sized fish. However, Severum can usually hold their own in a rowdy cichlid tank
as long as shelter is provided. The Severum can be kept in a pair or is a group.
The tank should be fairly large, a standard 55 gal. is perfect and there must be places of
refuge. These can be rock caves, large pieces of driftwood or even inverted flowerpots.
Have well-planted areas and a partial cover of floating plants. Use fine gravel as a
substrate.
Feeding is easy. They they will accept live foods; Tubifex , insect larvae, crustaceans,
large flakes, pellets, and vegetable matter
Breeding
130
Breeding should be done in a separate tank set up just for them. The substrate should
be a coarse sand or gravel and be dark in color the only plants should be the floating
type.
You should provide plenty of hiding places, like large half flower pots of some ceramic
piping. The initial pairing off can be time consuming as they seem to be very selective in
their partners. You will probably have to try several combinations before a suitable pair
is formed. Once a pair is formed they will breed readily and practice intense brood
protection on the fry for an extended period of time.
Use water with a pH of 6.0-6.5, a water hardness of 2-6 dH, and a warmer water
temperature of 81-86°F (27-30°C).
Severum are an open breeder that will lay up to 1,000, depending on the size of the
female, eggs on previously cleaned rocks.
The fry hatch in 2-4 days and are free-swimming 3-4 days later. Sometimes the larvae
are moved to pits by the parents.
They are carefully guarded by the parents, although the male tends mostly to the duty of
defending the territory.
The brood are quite large and it's not uncommon to have 1000 eggs or more in each
spawn. Maintain good water quality and a temperature of at least 72oF at all times.
Start feeding with small live foods and later with powdered flake foods. The fry begin to
take the normal shape of the Severum after a period of three to four weeks.
Pairs form nuclear families.
Note:
Many years ago the Severum was known as the “poor man’s Discus”.
131
Silver Dollar
Metynnis argenteus
Characin
Egglayer

Strata: Middle
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH range: 4-18
Temperature: 75ºF to 84ºF (24-29ºC)
Origin: South America, from Guyana to
Paraguay
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 10+ years
Diet: Herbivore, eats plants
Care: Intermediate
Classification
Genera: Metynnis
General Body Form
The Silver Dollar is a tall, laterally compressed fish that is shaped like a disk or plate. It
has small eyes and a back.
They have tiny scales with small mouths and enlarged lips. The caudal fin is slightly
indented. The adipose fin is long and short and in mature males the front part of the
anal fin is crescent shaped.
Male has a longer anal fin and has a red marking and front of belly.
Coloration
132
The base body color is silver, which is quite iridescent and is highlighted in schools.
The fins are transparent. The belly is slightly reddish silver.
A line extends through the iris. The pectoral fins are red. A string of spots extends
across the body.
The dorsal fin has a series of small dark spots.
In well cared for males, the caudal fin and the gill cover have a reddish border.
Maintenance
They are schooling fish and will always be shy and skittish in a small tank, so give them
as much room as possible.
Keep with fish of relative size, as smaller fish may be eaten. The Silver Dollar does best
when kept in a school of six or more fish.
The tank should be large and roomy with lots of open swimming areas. Provide hiding
places with solid rock structures and driftwood. The lighting should be dimmed and use
a dark gravel bottom. Live plants will usually be consumed, so use plastic plants as an
alternative. Some robust, sturdy plants may not be bothered if the fish are fed
sufficiently. Silver Dollars prefer shallow tanks.
Water quality is not critical and the temperature should be kept in the upper seventies to
low eighties.
Interestingly enough Silver Dollars are in the same family as Piranhas, but instead of
being carnivores, they are almost exclusively vegetarian. Among their favored foods are
vegetable flakes such as spirulina, lettuce, watercress, and cooked romaine or spinach.
They will also eat cooked vegetables such as peas and squash. When feeding any
fresh food, take extra care to remove any uneaten portions promptly, as it will foul the
water.
Even though the Silver Dollar prefers a vegetarian diet, they will eat meaty foods as
treats. They are especially fond of bloodworms, mosquito larvae (glass worms), and
brine shrimp.
If the Silver Dollar is in a community tank, watch them at feeding time to ensure that
more active and aggressive fish don’t get all the food. Silver Dollars can be rather timid
in a crowd, and can end up underfed as a result
133
Breeding
Breeding is difficult because of the volume of water needed for a group of fish to spawn
In nature these fish spawn in shallow, sun drenched flooded areas of rivers. In the home
aquarium they have been breed in clear aged water with a temperature between 81 and
90ºF.
Breeding is only possible in a large, shallow tank. Silver Dollars often spawn in schools.
Recommend water with the following values: a pH 6.0-6.5, a water hardness of 4-8 dH.
Have floating, fine leaved plants and slightly dimmed light.
About 2000 eggs are produced by each female. The eggs fall to the bottom. Remove
the adult fish after the spawning.
The eggs hatch in about four days and are free swimming a week later.
They first eat plankton, but later, will take vegetable flakes.
If well fed they will grow very quickly
Note:
• Although many specimens seen in shops are scarcely larger than the size of a dime,
don't be fooled. Adults become much larger than their namesake, growing to nearly
a half foot across.
• This hardy fish is difficult to care for because of the enormous size that it can reach.
134
Swordtail
Xiphophorus helleri
Poeciliidae
Livebearer
Size: to 4.5”
Strata: All
pH: 7 to 8
Hardness: medium hard to hard, dH
range: 10-30
Family: Poeciliidae
Origin: Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 4 years
Breeding: Livebearer, Easy
Classification
Order: Percopsiformes
Family: Poecilidae
Genera: Xiphophorus
General Body Form
The Swordtail is an elongated species with a slender body. Males possess a

characteristic, sword-like appendage formed by the lower rays of the caudal fin.
Females are more robust and lack the sword.
In both sexes the dorsal fin has a straight outer edge. There has been much cross
breeding within the family to produce many different colors and fin shapes. Lyretail
swords have an upper and lower sword and others have "high fin" dorsal fins as well.
Coloration
135
In the wild, natural Swordtails show an upper-side that is olive-green with the sides
being yellow-green highlighted by brown edges.
A dark stripe runs from the nose through the eye down the length of the body and in
males along the bottom of his sword, giving it an underlining effect. Also on the sides
near this stripe is an area of iridescent light green bordered in red, which under certain
light conditions is stunning.
The dorsal fin is a yellow-green color with one or more rows of red dots. All in all a very
nice looking fish even without the cross breeding.
Most Swordtails available today differ in coloration do to years of selective breeding.
Maintenance
Swordtails are a very peaceful and hardy species.
A tank measuring 20" (50 cm) with a capacity of 10 gallons (38 L) is only suitable for
young fish under 2.8" (7 cm) in length. If adult fish are kept in a tank this size,
aggressive tensions may be present. A 28" (71 cm) tank with a volume from 20-25
gallons (76-95 L) is more suitable. Leave open swimming areas and use planting along
the back and edges of the tank.
A cover of floating plants can be used to provide refuge for fry.
Avoid too much driftwood as a rule the livebearers do not like acidic water.
kind. Among the males there is a distinct hierarchy.
Breeding
An easily bred fish, although the young are hard to protect unless a breeding trap or
other means of refuge is used.
the oviduct walls for later use.
136
The eggs are very rich in yolk and the young develop by consuming their yolk stores. In
light colored females pregnancy can be recognized by the growing dark body marking in
front of the anal fin.
After a gestation period of four to six weeks, the mother gives birth to 50-120 young.
give no natal care whatsoever.
The fry grow very rapidly and will eagerly accept fine flake food.
Notes
• Swordtails are known for undergoing "sex-reversals," when females appear to
become males. This occurs most commonly to five months after birth and in old
females. When this change occurs early in life, a male is simply going through late
development. Sometimes old females develop male characteristics after they are no
longer fertile.
• Many different color morphs are available including red, green, red-eyed, albino,
neon, Lyre-tail, Wag tail, Simpson, and the Tuxedo.
• Besides these many cultivated forms, there are a number of separate wild
populations with varying colors and patterns.
• The Poeciliidae or Livebearing tooth-carp family originated from North, Central, and
South America, but now can be found worldwide, as they have been introduced for
mosquito control.
• Live-bearers are highly developed on an evolutionary scale, and their adaption gives
their live young an advantage over egg-laying species.
137
Tiger Barb
Puntius tetrazona
Cyprind
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Sumatra Barb

Size: Up to 3"
pH: 6.5 to 7.5
Hardness: Soft to medium, dH range: 3 - 10
Family: Puntius
Origin: Southeast Asia: Borneo,
Indonesia, Sumatra
Social: Active & Aggressive
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 6 years
Classification
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Puntius
General Body Form
The Tiger Barb is high-backed fish with no barbels.
Tall and stocky with a large caudal penducle.
Males are slimmer with brighter colors.
Coloration
138
Its back is brown to orange and the belly is white to silver. The flanks are silvery orange
with a white iridescence.
The body is marked with four transverse bands: the first running through the eye, and
the last running along the base of the caudal fin.
The caudal fin is light orange but transparent. The dorsal fin is mostly black with a red
fringe the edge. The other fins are transparent with an orange tint.
The tip of the snout may be reddish.
Maintenance
Not recommended for a "typical" community tank because these fish are usually a
nuisance toward tank mates. Don't combine with fish that have long or flowing fins
(Angelfish or Siamese fighting fish) because Tiger Barbs will nibble at them. A large
tank helps reduce this aggressiveness.
Tiger Barbs should be kept in a school of at least six fish.
The tank should be well planted with plenty of open space for swimming with a sandy or
fine gravel substrate for burrowing
They will accept all types of food including flake and frozen, don't overfeed as they are
ravenous eaters and will eat all you give them.
Breeding
Use as large a breeding tank as possible. Add bunches of fine-leafed plants and use a
substrate of marbles or no substrate at all.
Condition the spawners with the best food possible for a few days before transferring
them to the breeding tank. They usually will spawn the morning after being introduced to
the tank. A partial water change can also induce spawning.
The female is the more active partner and will lead in the courtship. After chasing and
false matings the pair will spawn in the plants, with the partners coming alongside each
other and the male twisting around the female. The eggs are scattered among the
plants and can number 500 to 1,000.
Feed adults whiteworms during spawning so they don't eat eggs as they are laid and
removed immediately afterward.
139
The transparent eggs will hatch in about 24 hours at a temperature of 75ºF and the
small young must be fed the finest of food like Brine shrimp Nauplii.
Once a little growth has taken place they are fairly easy to raise.
Notes:
• Very susceptible to the parasite "Ich”.
• The Tiger Barb is perhaps the most popular of all the barbs, being an active
swimmer in the middle layers. Shoals display a distinctive hierarchy and 'pecking
order'.
• This fish sometimes has a reputation as a bully, and fin nipping of other species may
occur.
140
White Cloud
Tanichthys albonubes
Cyprind
Egglayer
Other Common Name: Mountain

Minnow
Size: 2” (5cm)
Tank: 24 inches, gallon
Strata: All
pH: 6.0 to 8.0
Hardness: Soft to hard, dH range: 6-8
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: China
Social: Peaceful & very active
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Tubifex, water fleas, dried food
Breeding: Egglayers, Easy
Classification
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Tanichthys
General Body Form
An elongated species with an up-turned mouth. There are no barbels.
The males are more slender than the females.
Overall very similar to a young neon in shape.
Coloration
The back is dark olive brown as is the body, although the belly is white.
141
A slender, lateral gold stripe extends from the eye to the caudal fin. Below this stripe, is
a parallel blue-black line.
An obvious spot is located on the caudal penuncle, and the caudal fin has a reddish
wedge-shape.
The anal, dorsal, and ventral fins have a broad yellow tip.
Although small if you take the time to look at this fish it is a beauty in it's own right.
Maintenance
The White Cloud is a peaceful, schooling fish that can be combined with species that
can tolerate lower water temperatures.
A tank measuring 16" (41 cm) with a capacity of 5 gallons (19 L) is sufficient. The tank
should be well-planted and have open-swimming areas.
All kinds of food are accepted from flake to live.
Provide good filtration with a gentle current. Water parameters are not critical becasue
they will adapt to a wide range of conditions.
Although not tropical fish in the true sense, they will adapt to the conditions of a tropical
tank, but may not show their best colors once the temperature exceeds 77ºF.
Breeding
An easily bred, prolific species they are one of the easiest egglayers to breed.
In a heavily planted tank breeding will happen regularly and many young can survive to
add to your school.
Spawning takes place over several days and the eggs are laid among the plants. These
will hatch in about two days. The fry are very small and will need the smallest of flake
food to eat.
Lowering the water temperature slightly can stimulate breeding.
If you decide to use a breeding tank add lots of plants and keep the water temperature
from 68-72°F (20-22°C).
142
Spawning takes place when the male curls the rear part of his body around the female.
The eggs are attached to plants.
Remove parents after eggs are laid. If the parents are well fed, they will not eat the
eggs.
The fry hatch after 36-40 hours and they grow rapidly. Feed them with paramecia and
liquid foods.
Notes
• White Cloud was first called the "Working Man's Neon" or the "Poor Man's Neon" in
the 40's and 50's because Neon Tetras were very expensive.
• The White Cloud is said to have been discovered on the White Cloud Mountain near
Canton by a Chinese Boy Scout named Tan.
143
Zebra Danio
Brachydanio rerio
Cyprind
Egglayer
Size: 2"
Strata: All
pH: 6-8
Hardness: Soft, medium-hard, dH range: 2-20
Temperature: 64 to 77ºF (18 to 25ºC)
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: Eastern India
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Lifespan: 5 years
Diet: Omnivorous, eats most foods
Classification
Suborder: Cyprinidei
Family: Cyprinidae
Genera: Brachydanio
General Body Form
A slender fish with two pairs of barbels. The mouth is up-turned toward the surface
The fins may be elongated depending on the variety.
Females are generally larger with a more rounded belly.
Coloration
The background color is leans toward gold in the male and a paler yellow in the female.
There are four long blue/black stripes that run the length of the body from head to tail,
hence the “Zebra” tag.
The fins have the same coloration.
144
The back is brownish-gold, and the belly is white.
Males are often more colorful.
Maintenance
Although zebras will tolerate a range of temperatures, they don't do as well at the upper
end of the temperature range. Generally they are very hardy, but do need regular water
changes to maintain a good environment. Zebras are particularly susceptible to
Oodinium, or Velvet disease. When purchasing fish avoid any that have clamped fins, or
look emaciated, as they may be infected.
In their home waters the Zebra is extremely active and always on the move. We need to
provide for this in our home aquariums.
The tank should be fairly large with length being more important than height. Decorate
the tank with plantings and rockwork, but always leave plenty of open space for
swimming.
An active schooling species which can be kept in almost any community tank. Do not
combine the Zebra Danio with species that are frightened with constant movement.
A substrate of coarse gravel or pebbles is recommended
This species is a jumper-so cover the tank well.
They will take all types of commercial food from live to flake to frozen. They are a hardy
species that are not overly demanding in their water conditions and make the ideal fish
for the cycling of the tank.
Breeding
Zebras are quite interesting when it comes to breeding. They are one of the few fish
who select a mate for life. Once a pair has formed, it is rare for the male to mate with
any other females.
We need a separate tank, Preferably 5-10 gallons. The tank should have gravel or
marbles on the bottom and the water level kept low or the fish will eat the eggs as soon
as they are laid.
Use warmer water with a temperature from 75-79°F (24-26°C). Use a tank with a water
level of four to six inches deep, with heavy planting and a substrate of marbles.
145
Condition the pair with insect larvae and brine shrimp. Add the female to the tank first,
with the male being added 12-24 hours later.
The pair usually will spawn with the coming of morning sunlight. 400-500 eggs are
scattered on plants. The pair can be fed on white worms to keep them from consuming
their spawn. After spawning is complete, remove the pair.
The fry hatch in two days and are free-swimming after 5-7 days. Start feeding with
paramecia, and a couple days later with powdered dry foods
Note:
• Perhaps the most common fish in the world. The zebra has been around for many
years. Although not one most beautiful fish, its fast movements and ease of care
make it one of the most widely kept species
146
Zebra Loach
Botia striata
Loach
Egglayer
Size: 2.5" (6-9 cm)

Tank: 24", 10 gallon minimum
Strata: Bottom
pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Hardness: soft to medium, dH range:
3 - 15
Family: Cobitidae
Origin: Southern India
Social: Peaceful
Community Tank: Yes
Diet: Omnivorous, aquarium foods, supplement with live/frozen foods
Breeding: Not in captivity.
Care: Easy
Classification
Suborder: Cyprinidae
Family: Cobitidae
Genera: Botia
Species: Striata
General Body Form
This scaleless loach can be identified by the four pairs of barbells protruding from its
mouth area.
It’s a stocky, fish with an arched back and a flat belly profile. The caudal fin is deeply
cleft and the caudal penuncle is thick.
Coloration
The body is brown with many vertical yellow stripes which vary in thickness. The
translucent fins are marked with brown bands.
147
The caudal fin is marked with a series of brown dots.
Maintenance
The Striata Botia Loach is an active scavenger that is a semi-aggressive fish that enjoys
the company of its own species, or other semi-aggressive fish. It will school with others
of the same age and size.
A nocturnal species,the Striata Botia Loach appreciates caves, holes, and other places
to hide, especially when it sleeps.
Because it originates from streams, it requires water currents in the aquarium.
They are happiest living in small groups and have been reported to be semi aggressive,
sometimes nipping the fins of other species.
The Zebra Loach requires small amounts of food several times a day. Younger loaches
will eat most prepared foods while older ones may be more finicky. Feed them a varied
diet of bloodworms, brine shrimp and a quality flake or pellet food. They are well known
to eat snails and can be a welcome addition to any planted tank
Notes:
• This species can make audible clicking sounds.
• Loaches are able to survive in oxygen deficient waters by taking atmospheric air
from the water surface and passing it along their intestines to absorb the oxygen.
The excess air is passed out the anus.
• Loaches possess a spine or spines beneath the eye which can be erected when the
fish is threatened by predators.
• Barbels, containing taste buds, are used to search the substrate for food.
148

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Freshwater

Other Names/Variations: Silver Angel,

Size: up to 6" (15cm)

General Body Form

In older fish the forehead bulges.

Detailed Breeding Information

Choosing Breeder Angelfish

They should be strong, robust and active.

Leaving Fry with Parents

Hatching should occur in about 36 to 48 hours depending on the temperature. If some

Slow the aeration after the fry are free swimming.

Fresh, Brackish and Saltwater

Other Names: 7-Spot Archer,

Large specimens can hit a target 2-3m away

Special Aquarium Considerations

Other Common Names: Tricolor Shark , Silver

Size: Up to 16" (40cm), females smaller

General Body Form

They can reach a length of 16 inches, but are generally smaller.

It’s also a skilled jumper so a tight fitting cover is needed.

• Mature females are plumper than males.

Other name: Siamese Fighting Fish

General Body Form

Long bodied when compared with most Anabantoids.

Other Common Names/variations: Black

General Body Form

In the Goldskirts there are no easily identifiable sexual differences.

Other Common Names: Spotfin Tetra

General Body Form

Other Common Names/variations: Bronze

General Body Form

Most species of Corydoras will tolerate a wide range of variations in temperature, pH

Spawning may continue over a period of several days.

Growth is fairly rapid given proper conditions.

• Being an excellent scavenger, it is an invaluable addition to almost any aquarium.

• Spends almost all it's time at the bottom of the aquarium.

Other Common Names: Ram Cichlid

General Body Form

• Very beautiful but a delicate and short-lived fish.

Size: Up to 2" (5cm)

General Body Form

Like Neons they are best kept in schools of five or more.

Soft water, pH of 5.0 - 6.0 and a water temperature of about 75ºF.

Cardinals usually spawn at twilight.

Remove the parents.

Other Common Names: Indian algae eater,

General Body Form

Long and cylindrical with a down facing mouth.

The eye is also yellow.

• One interesting adaptation of this fish is in its respiration. When it is attached to a

Other Common Name: Tiger Botia

General Body Form

This fish is somewhat long and compressed laterally.

Clown loaches, once established, can live a very long time.

Other common Name: Zebra Cichlid

Size: 5-6 inches (15cm) full grown males;

General Body Form

A moderately elongated, laterally compressed with an oval body shape…general cichlid

A dark blotch is usually present on the gill cover.

Females have pinker bellies and are usually rounder.

There is also a pink/albino strain.

Convicts, like any other cichlids, are egg-layers.

Size: Up to 6" (15cm)