Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol.

2011, 113, 403–408 403

Review Article
Argan oil and other argan products: Use in
dermocosmetology

Dominique Guillaume1 and Zoubida Charrouf2

1
CNRS-UFR Médecine-Pharmacie, Department of Medicinal Chemistry, Reims, France
2
Université MohammedV-Agdal, Rabat, Morocco

Argan oil is of food or cosmetic (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil) grade. During the past 15 years
cosmetic argan oil, as beauty oil or cosmetic ingredient, has become one of the major actors in the
dermocosmetic field. Beauty argan oil is produced by cold-pressing argan-fruit kernels. As a cosmetic
ingredient, argan oil is produced by solvent-assisted extraction of the finely crushed kernels. Enriched-
argan oil which is produced by distillation of cosmetic argan oil can be supplemented with antioxidants.
Hence, it presents an even better cosmetic potential. Argan fruit pulp and argan leaves also contain
proteins, peptides, saponins and other chemicals presenting highly interesting dermocosmetics.
Therefore, the argan tree (A. spinosa) is sometimes nicknamed A. cosmetosa. We comprehensively
review the current knowledge (literature and patent) related to argan oil and argan tree products in
the dermocosmetic domain.

Keywords: Argan metabolites / Argania spinosa kernel oil / Beauty argan oil / Cosmetic argan oil

Received: July 22, 2010 / Revised: August 23, 2010 / Accepted: October 8, 2010
DOI: 10.1002/ejlt.201000417

1 Introduction argan kernels with a lipophilic solvent. Additionally, whereas

In most people’s mind, argan oil is associated with Morocco.
This is a direct consequence of the recent tremendous
commercial and media success of edible argan oil that is
almost exclusively produced in Morocco. However, three
main types of argan oil co-exist on the market: edible, beauty
and cosmetic argan oil (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel
oil).
Edible argan oil is a cold-pressed oil [1] obtained from
roasted argan kernels [2]. Cold-pressing is an method that
preserves oil qualities [3]. Traditionally, edible argan oil can
be eaten on bread or used for cooking since it improves the
taste of ethnic dishes [2]. More generally, edible argan oil is
now frequently introduced in gourmet food or high energy
food compositions [4].
Beauty argan oil is cold-pressed argan oil obtained from
non-roasted argan kernels [2]. It is meant to be directly
applied on the skin or hair.
Unlike edible and beauty argan oils, cosmetic argan oil is
not a cold-pressed oil. It is prepared by extraction of ground
Correspondence: Professor Dominique Guillaume, UMR6229, URCA-
CNRS, Department of Medicinal Chemistry, 51 rue Cognacq Jay, 51100
Reims, France
E-mail: dominique.guillaume@univ-reims.fr
Fax: þ33 326 918 029
edible and beauty argan oils principally locally produced in
Morocco, cosmetic argan oil has been to date mainly pro-
duced in Western-Europe. Cosmetic argan oil exclusively
enters as an ingredient in cosmetic preparations and is not
aimed at being used for dietary purposes or directly applied
on the skin. Cosmetic argan oil has been ranked the number
one in the top 10 beauty ingredient list for 2009 by a major
US agency (http://www.piercemattiepublicrelations.com/
beautydivision/2008/12/beauty-forecast-pierce-mattei.html
(access August 2010)).
Edible argan oil is by far the most ancient type of argan oil
and can be prepared following an ancestral process [2].
Thanks to a series of technological improvements [5, 6],
nowadays, large quantity of edible argan oil of high quality
is produced in semi-mechanized Moroccan cooperatives.
The resulting oil has a high content of unsaturated fatty acids
(UFAs) that explains why edible argan oil is endowed with
cardio- and hepato-protective properties [7]. In vitro studies
have attributed to edible argan oil several other pharmaco-
logical properties [8] likely resulting from the presence of
several minor but valuable components [9]. Regular con-
sumption of argan oil is a highly recommended diet referred
to as the ‘Amazigh diet’ [10].
Beauty argan oil has a golden colour and is odourless.
Interestingly, ‘beauty grade’ argan oil can also be introduced
in lipid emulsions for parenteral nutrition [11].

ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim www.ejlst.com

404 D. Guillaume and Z. Charrouf
2 The argan tree
Beauty argan oil is often labelled as a natural organic oil. It
comes from the kernels trapped in the stones of the fruit of the
argan tree. Argan tree (A. spinosa (L.) Skeels) of the family
Sapotaceae, is not a domesticated tree. It grows naturally in
Southwestern Morocco, the only location where it is
endemic. Argan tree is well adapted to marginal soils with
very low nutrient content and it can stand long period of
drought [12]. Dramatically, the superficy of the argan forest
has been halved during the 20th century mainly due to an
accumulation of mismanagements including human overuse
and lack of long-term vision. Therefore, the sustainable
development of the argan forest is currently being particularly
actively investigated [5, 13, 14].
3 Argan oil
Argan oil has been known in Southwestern Morocco since the
Phoenicians. Not surprisingly, argan oil continues to strongly
impact the culture of the population traditionally living in the
argan forest where, argan oil is still traditionally prepared.
The semi-mechanized press process now used has led to the
preparation of two distinct types of argan oil: edible and
beauty oil.
3.1 Argan oil preparation
3.1.1 Edible argan oil
The traditional method used for the preparation of edible
argan oil and its successive improvements implemented in the
woman cooperatives have already been depicted in details
several times [2, 15] and therefore will not be reported here.
Its numerous claimed or established pharmacological proper-
ties have also been recently extensively reviewed [16].
3.1.2 Beauty argan oil
Beauty argan oil preparative process used in woman cooper-
atives is slightly shorter than that of edible oil since argan
kernels are not roasted. Four steps are necessary: fruit pick-
ing, fruit peeling, nut breaking and kernel pressing using
endless screws. An additional filtration step is sometime
added. Compared to pressing the roasted kernels used in
edible oil, the beauty oil with unroasted kernels can lead to
technical problems like press jamming, since roasted kernels
are more brittle and easier to crunch than non-roasted.
Mechanical pressing of non-roasted argan kernels delivers
beauty oil in 40–45% yield.
3.1.3 Cosmetic oil
Cosmetic argan oil is prepared by solvent-extraction. Most of
the time, a suspension of finely grounded argan kernels in the
ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2011, 113, 403–408
solvent is refluxed for a few hours. Then the suspension is
filtered and the filtrate concentrated in vacuo affords cosmetic
argan oil in 45–50% yield. Extraction can also be performed
using a soxhlet apparatus and lipophilic solvents of low boiling
point as (cyclo)hexane or petroleum ether. Halogenated sol-
vents as chloroform or dichloromethane present a similar
efficiency in terms of extractive efficiency [17]. The use of
stainless steel material is highly recommended to avoid met-
allic traces that could catalyse fatty acid oxidation [18].
Lipophilic antioxidants as ascorbyl 6-palmitate, tocopherols,
isopropyl gallate or butylhydroxytoluene are frequently added
at the concentration of 0.02–0.1% to prevent fatty acid oxi-
dation [19].
Cosmetic argan oil contains about 1% of unsaponifiable
matters (see below) that have antioxidant properties
and hence participate in oil preservation. It is therefore
tempting to increase the level of antioxidants to improve
argan oil preservation. The resulting oil that possesses high
levels of antioxidants and UFA-containing triacylglycerides
presents hydration and skin-protective properties. It also
helps in restoring the hydro-lipidic film of the skin and
strengthening its barrier function. Therefore, such oil is
highly valued in the cosmetic domain, where it is named
enriched-argan oil. This oil is prepared by molecular distil-
lation of cosmetic argan oil. Heating argan oil at 2708C and
under 0.14 Pa of pressure for a few seconds yields a distillate
composed of argan oil almost fourfold enriched in unsapo-
nified matters (see composition of argan oil below) and fatty
acids. High vacuum is required to ensure the use of as low as
possible temperatures. Since argan oil is heated for a very
short time, the risk of oxidative damage of UFAs is almost
null [20]. However, enrichment in fatty acids is detrimental
for cosmetic argan oil. Indeed, high levels of fatty acids lead to
an odourant oil that can also be irritant to the skin and,
consequently, preventing its use as raw material in cosmetol-
ogy. Free fatty acids can be removed by steam distillation
of enriched argan oil at 150–2008C and under 1.5–8.5 Pa of
pressure [19].
Argan oil unsaponifiable matters include a large amount
of sterols and polyphenols. Polyphenols from other plants
possessing valuable cosmetic properties, as epigallocatechin:
the green tea gallocatechin, can be added into argan oil.
However, polyphenol hydrosolubility raises a technical prob-
lem that can be overcome if finely ground and well-dried
polyphenols are first dissolved in a 1:1 v/v glycerol/water
solution. Ascorbyl 6-palmitate that acts as antioxidant and
solubilizing adjuvant can also be added. The mixture is then
added to argan oil together with 0.3% of monoglycerides.
Stirring and/or sonication under an inert atmosphere afford a
limpid and stable product highly enriched in antioxidants and
whose level in polyphenols is up to 300 mg/L of oil [20]. As
well as polyphenols, sterols or sterol precursors can be added
to cosmetic argan oil. For example, squalene is a sterol
precursor sometimes added to cosmetic argan oil to increase
its cosmetic properties [21].
www.ejlst.com
Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2011, 113, 403–408
3.2 Argan oil composition
Beauty, cosmetic and enriched-argan oil composition and
physicochemical typical parameters are listed Table 1.
Physicochemical parameters determined for the three types
of oil are quite similar, and expectedly unsaponifiable matters
are in a much high level in enriched-argan oil. The lowest
level in tocopherols is found in cosmetic argan oil, likely due
to the poor solubility of tocopherols in lipohilic solvents.
Beauty oil tocopherol level is 3-fold higher than that of
cosmetic argan oil but 2.5-fold lower than that of
enriched-argan oil. The high tocopherol level and fatty acid
composition are responsible for the cosmetic value of argan
oil. The three types of oil present a highly similar fatty acid
composition. They both contain 80% of unsaturated EFA:
oleic and linoleic acid, and only traces of linolenic acid.
Therefore, the fatty acid contribution to the cosmetic proper-
ties of argan oil is identical for the three types of oil.
3.3 Argan oil preservation
Despite its low linolenic acid content, argan oil is still fre-
quently perceived as an oil presenting a very short shelf life
and low preservation characteristics. This discouraging state-
ment results from old sayings concerning traditionally pre-
pared edible argan oil whose preparative process often
included sanitary unsafe water that negatively impacted the
oil preservation time. Because beauty and edible argan oils
are now prepared by press-extraction, the preservation
capacity of argan oil has favourably changed and edible argan
oil can be stored up to two years [22]. However, beauty argan
oil can only be preserved for a few weeks [23]. After this delay,
the oil develops an aroma that was judged ‘unpleasant’ by a
trained panel and ‘very unpleasant’ after 12 weeks [23]. Since
edible and beauty argan oil differs only by the roasting of the
kernels, formation of Maillard reaction products has been
Table 1. Typical physicochemical parameters and chemical characteristics of beauty, cosmetic and enriched-argan oils
Beauty [16, 21]
Physicochemical parametres
Acid value (mg KOH/g oil) <1
Iodine value (g I2/100 g oil) 102
Peroxide value (Meq O2/kg oil) 1.2
Saponification value (mg KOH/g oil) 196
Unsaponifiable matters (%) 0.8
Total tocopherol (mg/kg) 771
Fatty acid composition (%)
Palmitic acid 13
Stearic acid 5.5
Oleic acid 46
Linoleic acid 35
Linolenic acid <0.5
ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
Argan oil and cosmetic products 405
suggested to explain this difference of preservation time [23].
Enriched argan oil contain artificially high antioxidant levels,
therefore, its preservation time is high.
3.4 Argan oil in dermocosmetology
Argan oil has been traditionally used in Morocco for centuries
and is generally referred to as the beauty secret of Moroccan
women. Traditionally, beauty argan oil is claimed to elimin-
ate skin pimples as well as juvenile acne and chicken pox
pustule scars [2]. It is also recommended to cure brittle
fingernails and to reduce dry skin matters and wrinkles [2].
Moroccan women use it also to bring shine to hair.
Nowadays, beauty oil is still indicated for those disorders
and it is a good and organic anti-aging skin care oil.
A permanently increasing number of argan oil-containing
cosmetic preparations or shampoos are marketed. In the
following section, we will specifically focus on compositions
in which argan oil is clearly the responsible for the preparation
cosmetic properties. Cosmetic preparations containing seed-
oils whose one is possibly argan oil will not be considered
herein.
Cosmetic and enriched argan oils are now currently
included in serums or creams for their moisturizing properties
and their capacity to prevent early signs of aging. Based on a
traditional use, preparations containing argan oil are also fre-
quently claimed to hydrate the skin [24], neutralize free
radicals, heal acne blemishes, help reduce scars, revitalize
and improve skin elasticity. Some of these properties have been
confirmed by scientific observations and, for example, the
proliferative and growth-stimulating activity of enriched-argan
oil has been clearly evidenced using L 929 fibroblasts [25].
Most of these properties have triggered an interest to market
cosmetic products [26, 27]. It is also known that UV radiation
can lead to MMP mediated collagen destruction resulting to
skin wrinkling. It is highly likely that argan oil skin-protective
Cosmetic [18] Enriched [17]
1 <4
98.1 100
0.8 <10
195 195
1 3.8
Tocopherol level
250 1834
13.5 13.5
5.5 5.5
47 48
33 34
<0.5 <0.5
www.ejlst.com
406 D. Guillaume and Z. Charrouf
properties result from its high level in polyphenols, a class of
compounds known to prevent UV-B-induced wrinkle for-
mation and photoaging caused by collagen destruction and
inflammatory responses [28]. Cosmetic argan oil also possesses
sebum control properties [29]. This has led to the preparation
of argan oil-containing compositions aimed at correcting or
preventing disorders associated with greasiness by reducing the
sebum secretion [30]. Cosmetic/beauty argan oil can be intro-
duced crude or after trans-esterification with polyglycerin-6 in
shampoos or hairconditioners [31], since it nourishes and
revitalizes the scalp, it also restores hair natural softness and
silky [8]. Cosmetic properties of argan oil can also be exalted by
synergistic associations with other vegetable oils [32, 33] or
non-lipidic ingredients [34].
4 Other argan products used in
dermocosmetology
Beauty and cosmetic argan oils are not the only argan-derived
products used in cosmetology. Early efforts carried out to
ensure the argan forest sustainable development and stimu-
late its socio-economic development [13, 14] have led to the
discovery of new and cosmetically relevant argan products;
namely, proteins, peptides, saponins and sterols.
4.1 Argan proteins and peptides
The press-cake as well as argan tree leaves contain highly
valuable compounds. From the press-cake, a fraction rich in
high molecular weight proteins (>200 000 Da) has been
shown to possess anti-wrinkle properties [35]. A dose-
dependent stimulation of fibroblaste and keratinocyte pro-
liferation observed in vitro has been proposed to explain those
anti-wrinkle properties [36]. An oil-free serum containing
this group of proteins is now marketed [36]. Enzyme-
hydrolysis of the crude press-cake proteins also affords a
mixture of peptides and proteins of molecular weight below
20 000 Da. Those peptides possess anti-ageing properties
and appear particularly active to treat menopause-associated
skin problems [25]. They can be synergistically associated
with argan oil.
4.2 Argan saponins
A large number of saponins has been isolated from
A. spinosa [37–40]. A crude saponin extract prepared by
selective alcohol-assisted extraction of argan seeds displays
dermopharmaceutical properties. It improves hair combabil-
ity and softness, has an anticellulite activity, has revitalizing
properties, and reduced UVB-induced skin damage [41].
Usefulness of this crude extract in cosmetology was further
confirmed by the discovery of its anti 5a-reductase activity,
demonstrating its potential to treat alopecia or acne [42, 43].
ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2011, 113, 403–408
4.3 Argan sterols
Finally, the unsaponifiable fraction of an extract prepared by
solvent (preferably hexane) or supercritical carbon dioxide
extraction of the pulp of argan fruit presents the ability to
reduce the damage to cell membrane caused by UV-A/-B
radiation. It can also prevent skin disorders associated with
ageing by modulating the decrease in the induction of
HSP72 [36] a protein responsible of the protection of cells
against cellular stress, and able to stimulate the production of
TGFb1 [36], a polypeptide controlling cell proliferation. It
also acts as antioxidant or free radical scavenger and has anti-
inflammatory properties. This unsaponifiable fraction that is
principally composed of lupeol, a- and b-amyrine, taraxas-
terol, erythrodiol, schottenol and spinasterol also inhibits
elastase and plasmine, two enzymes that catalyse the destruc-
tion of proteoglycan, collagen and elastin leading to skin
aging [44].
4.4 Argan crude extracts
From the leaves of A. spinosa, a fraction containing flavone
derivatives, saponins, procyanolidines and sterols can be
extracted. This crude extract also possesses looked-after der-
mopharmaceutical effects including an antiinflammatory
effect, a protective effect against UV-A and -B radiation,
an anti-ageing activity, an antioxidant and radical scavenger
activity and a matrix metalloprotease inhibitory activity [45].
As a consequence, this crude fraction has an activity against
the damage to fibroblasts. It can also be used as self-tanning
agent [45]. Finally, A. spinosa fruit pulp crude essential oil
extract has recently been shown to contain camphor as major
chemical [46], however, use of this latter extract seems lim-
ited as insect repellent and no use in cosmetology has been
reported, so far.
Noteworthily, to date no adverse or toxic effects have
been reported for beauty or cosmetic argan oils or for
any of the argan derivatives used in cosmetology.
Nevertheless, one case of allergy has been reported for edible
argan oil [47].
5 Conclusions
Twenty years ago, edible argan oil was, for the best, a tourist
curiosity, beauty argan oil was unknown, and a single labora-
tory was introducing cosmetic argan oil in its product line as
hand treatment for devitalized skin. The skin moisturing
activity of beauty argan oil and its skin and hair protective
properties [2] are such that it is now one of the major cosmetic
ingredients. Even though it is a new product, argan oil was
identified the number one cosmetic ingredient by Pierce
Mattei Public Relation in 2009 (http://www.piercemattie-
publicrelations.com/beautydivision/2008/12/beauty-fore-
cast -pierce-mattei.html (access August 2010)) and several
www.ejlst.com
Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2011, 113, 403–408
cosmetic companies, including three major ones, offer now a
large number of argan oil-containing patented dermophar-
maceutical products. Such a fast success is unprecedented
and had neither been fully anticipated, nor expected, even in
Morocco. Nowadays, argan oil is often cited by international
development agencies as the successful example of develop-
ment [48]. However, the future of argan oil still remains
uncertain and is dependent on argan tree future. Indeed,
argan oil presents the specificity of being prepared from
the fruit of a tree that exclusively grows in a poor and very
limited area of Morocco [5, 13]. Moroccan argan oil (all types
confounded) production alone is evaluated as 4000 tons,
almost three-quarter of which being presently exported [15].
Argan kernels are also exported but accurate data regarding
export sales of argan kernels are not available. Therefore, any
shortage crisis or any market uncertainty could prompt a
switch in cosmetic formulation, possibly transforming argan
oil, the present cosmetic star, into a falling star. Hence, the
fragile equilibrium that has now been reached between pro-
ducers and cosmetic laboratories needs to be carefully pre-
served. This represents a real challenge considering the
current high price of argan oil and hence the associated
economic issues.
Nevertheless, the future of argan-derived products may
not be only in the oil. Indeed, new argan-derived products
are slowly penetrating the cosmetic market. Some minor
cosmetic laboratories have been positioned in this niche for
years [49]. Particularly, the anti-wrinkle properties of some
argan proteins and the free radical scavanger activity evi-
denced by some argan leaf flavonoids are welcome to diversify
the use of argan-derived products on the cosmetic market. Of
course, as for argan oil, the difficulties resulting from the
limited origin area remain but these new products reduce the
exclusive dependency of the argan forest economy on argan
oil. Therefore, argan flavonoids and proteins could be the
compounds that will really ensure the long-term future of the
argan forest, and hence that of argan oil.
The authors have declared no conflict of interest.
References
[1] Matthäus, B., Spener, F., What we known and what we
should know about virgin oils-A general introduction. Eur.
J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2008, 110, 597–601.
[2] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Driouich, A., Argan tree: An
asset for Morocco. Biofutur 2002, 220, 54–57 (in French).
[3] Boucher, C., Oil compositions obtained from non-heated
plant parts, introduced ground and non-heated in the press,
extracted by cold pressing. WO/2004/050108 Société
Celatour, Paris, 2006.
[4] Yanez Soler, A. J., Munoz Cerda, A., Composition contain-
ing cacao and spirulina. WO 2009/083629, 2009.
[5] Charrouf, Z., Harhar, H., Gharby, S., Guillaume, D.,
Enhancing the value of argan oil is the best mean to sustain
ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
Argan oil and cosmetic products 407
the argan grove economy and biodiversity, so far. Oléag. Corps
Gras Lipides 2008, 15, 269–271.
[6] Kisaalita, W. S., Shealy, M., Neu, M. J., Jones, P., Dunn, J.,
Argan nut cracker for southwestern moroccan women. Agric.
Mechaniz. Asia Afr. Latin Am. 2010, 41, 27–33.
[7] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Ethnoeconomical, ethnomed-
ical, and phytochemical study of Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels.
J. Ethnopharmacol. 1999, 67, 7–14.
[8] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Argan oil: Occurrence, com-
position and impact on human health. Eur. J. Lipid Sci.
Technol. 2008, 110, 632–636.
[9] Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T. et al.,
Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile
of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic
compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive
effects. Eur. J. Cancer Prev. 2003, 12, 67–75.
[10] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Should the amazigh diet
(Regular and moderate argan-Oil consumption) have a
beneficial impact on human health? Crit. Rev. Food Sci.
Nutr. 2010, 50, 473–477.
[11] Bensouada, Y., Formulation of argan oil-based lipid emul-
sion for parenteral nutrition. WO 2008/002116, 2006.
[12] Morton, J. F., Voss, G. L., The argan tree (Argania side-
roxylon, Sapotaceae), a desert source of edible oil. Econ. Bot.
1987, 41, 221–233.
[13] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Sustainable development in
northern Africa: The argan forest case. Sustainability 2009,
1, 1012–1022.
[14] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., Argan oil, functional food, and
the sustainable development of the argan forest. Nat. Prod.
Commun. 2008, 3, 283–288.
[15] Kenny, L., De Zborowski, I., Atlas de l’arganeraie et de l’arga-
nier, IAV Hassan II, Rabat, Morocco 2007, p. 190.
[16] El Monfalouti, H., Guillaume, D., Denhez, C., Charrouf, Z.,
Therapeutic potential of argan oil – A review. J. Pharm.
Pharmacol. 2010, 62, 1669–1675.
[17] Hatinguais, P., Trebosc, M. T., Belle, R., Extrait lipidique
du fruit de l’arganier, procédé de préparation et application
en cosmétologie. French patent 83 16740; FR 2553 788, P.F.
Cosmétique, 1983.
[18] Marfil, R., Cabrera-Vique, C., Gimenenz, R., Bouzas, P. R.
et al., Metal content and physicochemical parameters used as
quality criteria in virgin argan oil: Influence of the extraction
method. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2008, 56, 7279–7284.
[19] Fabre, B., Trebosc, M. T., Huile d’argan enrichie, procédé
de préparation et composition cosmétique la comprenant.
French patent 94 11174; FR 2724 663, P. Fabre
Dermocosmétique, 1994.
[20] Vincieri, F. F., Romani, A., Mulinacci, N., Enrichment and
integration of single-seed and multi-seed vegetable oils, and
palm coconut, argan and other oils, with organic antioxidants
and process for the production thereof. WO 2006/109340
Goya Holding SA, Luxembourg, 2006.
[21] Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Somfleth, P., Li, Q. Y.,
Gassenmeier, T., Cosmetic compositions containing selected
fatty acids and squalene. WO/2008/080701 Henkel,
Düsseldorf, 2007.
[22] Gharby, S., Harhar, H., Guillaume, D., Haddad, A. et al.,
Oxidative stability of edible argan oil: A two-year study.
LWT- Food Sci Technol. 2011, 44, 1–8.
www.ejlst.com
408 D. Guillaume and Z. Charrouf
[23] Matthäus, B., Guillaume, D., Gharby, S., Haddad, A. et al.,
Effect of processing on the quality of edible argan oil. Food
Chem. 2010, 120, 426–432.
[24] Breton, L., Jourdain, R., Gueniche, A., Bureau-Frantz, I.
et al., Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for pre-
vention and/or treatment of sensitive or dry skin. US patent
2009/0232785 L’Oréal, France, 2009.
[25] Fort Lacoste, L., Fabre, B., Charveron, M., Association
d’huile et de peptides d’argan utile pour le traitement des
troubles liés au vieillessement cutané. French patent FR 2756
183 P, Fabre Dermocosmétique SA, 1996.
[26] Stussi, I., Henry, F., Moser, P., Danoux, L. et al., Argania
spinosa- How ecological farming, fair trade and sustainability
can drive the research for new cosmetic active ingredients.
SÖFW-J. 2005, 131, 35–46.
[27] Faure, J. G., Huiles végétales à propriétés dermatologiques.
French patent 81 03499, 1981.
[28] Bae, J. Y., Kim, J. L., Kang, Y. H., Ellagic acid prevents
ultraviolet radiation-induced chronic skin damage of skin
cells and in the hairless mice. FASEB J. 2008, 23, 353.8.
[29] Dobrev, H., Clinical and instrumental study of the efficacy of
a new sebum control cream. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007, 6,
113–118.
[30] Baldo, F., Composition for combating the localized hyper-
pigmentation of dark skin. US patent 2008/0119527 L’Oréal,
France, 2008.
[31] Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Förster, T., Hair treatment means.
WO 2010/026009 Henkel AG&Co, Germany, 2010.
[32] Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Kursawe, P., Somfleth, P., Poppe,
E., Cosmetic composition containing argan oil and shea
butter. WO 2008/080708 Henkel, Germany, 2008.
[33] Gibbons, C., Watson, A. D., Morris, S., Cosmetic compo-
sition comprising seabucktorn. US patent 2007/0224229
Procter & Gamble Company, United States of America,
2007.
[34] Willemein, C., Bissey-Beugras, L., Senee, J., Compain, D.,
Composition containing a C-glycoside compound.
US patent 2008/0226756 L’Oréal, France, 2008.
[35] Pauly, G., Henry, F., Moser, P., Charrouf, Z., Kosmetische
und/oder dermopharmazeutische Zubereitungen enthaltend
native Proteine aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa. European patent
1 213 024 Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf, 2002.
[36] Fabre, B., Belle, R., Charveron, M., Baudouin, C., Use of an
unsaponifiable extract of plant pulp in the treatment of skin
ageing. US 2009/0012049 P. Fabre Dermocosmétique SA,
2009.
ß 2011 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2011, 113, 403–408
[37] Oulad-Ali, A., Kirchner, V., Lobstein, A., Weniger, B. et al.,
Structure elucidation of three triterpene glycosides from
the trunk of Argania spinosa. J. Nat. Prod. 1996, 59, 193–
195.
[38] El Fakhar, N., Charrouf, Z., Coddeville, B., Leroy, Y. et al.,
New triterpenoid saponins from Argania spinosa. J. Nat. Med.
2007, 61, 375–380.
[39] Charrouf, Z., Wieruszeski, J. M., Fkih-Tetouani, S., Leroy,
Y. et al., Triterpenoid saponins from Argania spinosa.
Phytochemistry 1992, 31, 2079–2086.
[40] Guillaume, D., Charrouf, Z., Saponines et métabolites sec-
ondaires de l’arganier (Argania spinosa): état des connaiss-
ances. Cahiers Agric. 2005, 15, 509–516.
[41] Charrouf, Z., Henry, F., Pauly, G., Cosmetic and/or phar-
maceutical preparations that contain an extract of the plant
Argania spinosa. US patent 2003/0138394 Cognis
Corporation, Gulph Mill, 2002.
[42] Henry, F., Danoux, L., Pauly, G., Charrouf, Z., Verwendung
eines Extraktes aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa. European
patent EP 1 430 900 Cognis France SA, Saint Martory, 2004.
[43] Henry, F., Danoux, L., Pauly, G., Charrouf, Z., Use of an
extract from the plant Argania spinosa. WO/2004/054597
Cognis France SA, Saint Martory, 2004.
[44] Henry, F., Danoux, L., Pauly, G., Charrouf, Z., A plant
extract and its pharmaceutical and cosmetic use. WO/
2005/039610 Cognis Management GmbH. Düsseldorf,
2005.
[45] Pauly, G., Henry, F., Danoux, L., Charrouf, Z., Cosmetic
and/or dermopharmaceutical preparation containing leaf
extracts of the plant Argania spinosa. EP 1347768 Cognis
France SA, Saint Martory, 2001.
[46] Harhar, H., Gharby, S., Ghanmi, M., El Monfalouti, H.
et al., Composition of the essential oil of Argania spinosa
(Sapotaceae) fruit pulp. Nat. Prod. Commun. 2010, 5,
935–936.
[47] Astier, C., Benchad, Y. E., Moneret-Vautrin, D. A., Bihain,
B. E., Kanny, G., Anaphylaxis to argan oil. Allergy 2010, 65,
662–663.
[48] Charrouf, Z., Guillaume, D., in: Harpelle, R., Muirhead, B.
(Eds.), Long-term Solutions for a Short-term World: Canada and
Research Development, WLU Press, Waterloo 2010, ISB N13:
978-1-55458-223-5.
[49] Pumareda, L., Henry, F., Charrouf, Z., Pauly, G.,
Falconnet, G., Valorisation des feuilles d’arganier:
Impact environnemental. Bois Forêts Tropiques 2006, 287,
35–44.
www.ejlst.com