Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Complete rabbet
by sawing tongue
to final width.
and-groove fits
Project plans often call for
)
rabbeting the edges of a panel
in order to create a tongue that ---
,,..
Tunnel under auxiliary
slips into a drawer or rail groove. ·-.- fence prevents
This is often done with a router trapped offcuts.
bit or tablesaw dado head, with
the work fed flat on the table.
Unfortunately, done this way,
'-..._ Featherboard ensures
any inaccuracy in the thickness consistent cuts.
of the stock is transferred to
the thickness of the tongue, against the fence. Set up the first a thick auxiliary fence, raising
creating an ill fit in the groove. cut to rip the tongue to thickness, it enough to create a tunnel for
One way to ensure a perfect feeding the panel on edge with the freed offcut to fall away
tongue-and-groove fit is to the tongue face against the fence. without being pinched between
create the rabbet by making two Use a featherboard to ensure the blade and fence, eliminating
intersecting cuts on the tablesaw, consistency of cut. Now set up to violent ejection of the piece.
feeding the edge to be rabbeted make the intersecting cut against -Harvey Mickelson, Reno, Nevada
.. Laminate
trimmer
Flush-routing plugs • •
From the Inventors
I've found that a router equipped plug projection that remains is of Biscuit Joinery...
with a straight or spiral flute easily sanded or scraped away.
bit does a much faster (and free A laminate trimmer works best
of tear-out) job of cutting plugs because of its maneuverability
flush than does the old saw- and small footprint. However,
and-chisel approach. I simply sometimes adjacent plugs prevent
adjust the tip of the router bit setting the subbase completely
shy of the workpiece surface by onto the work surface. In that
about the thickness of a sheet case, you may have to trim a few
of loose-leaf paper, and then tilt plugs the old-fashioned way to
the router to lower the spinning create a landing pad for the base.
bit onto the end of the plug. The -George Aspinall,
few thousandths of an inch of Tacoma, Washington Lamello
Classic X
The ONLY Biscuit Joiner
with a flush-sided
Met baseplate,
swiveling front stop and
stop square for exact
positioning from
~~&
· ta 1••-1~ '------i
V-DrillGuides
Drill Straight - Every Time!
Can be used on flat surfaces,
round parts and corners.
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any of us remember this box offers several low- shot. You can shorten the sides
Dad's toolbox and how it always risk opportunities to practice and handle to compensate.
seemed to have everything traditional joinery, including I chose mahogany for the body
needed to repair a broken chair through dovetails and wedged of the box because it's a friendly
or hang a screen door. Wanting tenons. If you make a mistake and forgiving wood-perfect for
to build my own all-purpose when cutting the dovetails, don't hand-cut joinery. As an added
tool tote, I decided to take fret. Just use the metal template bonus, it takes on a beautifully
Dad's nailed-together box up to retrace your tails on a new rich, deep color as it ages. For
a notch to ensure that it will piece and try again. If you mess the handle, I chose red oak,
be around for the grandkids. up the pins on the bottom board, not only for strength, but also
Aside from its obvious utility, cut them off and give it another because if offers a nice contrast.
J""
/
~ S wedge
0
Saw cuts .
for wedges '
1"
Through
% 11
deep m rtise mortise
_,,,,_,.,..
#8 x 11h" flathead screws '- %x ~ x 3~" tenon, centered
- Y4" bead
Start with the ends to lay out the first half of the end the opposite half. Now lay out
1 From ~A"-thick stock, cut the profile, as shown in Photo A, the location of the through-
ends (A) and bottom (B) to the then flip the pattern and trace mortise for the handle (D).
sizes listed in the Cut List. Also
cut ~,4"-thick material for the sides
(C) and handle (D), but leave these
parts oversized in length for now.
(You'll trim them to final length
after cutting the dovetails.)
2 Using the pattern on page 28,
make a half-pattern of the end
(A) from l,4"-thick plywood. Use it
Tip Alert
To prevent the pattern from
slipping, drive a few finish nails
through the plywood, and then
nip the nails so that only a small
Ltip remains. Lay out the ends of the tote using a half-pattern,
which guarantees perfect symmetry.
Cut the dovetails tails on both ends. The template visibility, you can run a fine-
1 Make a master template of a also allows testing the look of the tipped pencil over the knife lines.)
single pin socket from aluminum dovetails without wasting wood.) 3 Clamp the board at a
flashing to suit your desired 2 Set a marking gauge about 1/M-" comfortable height in a face
angle and pin width. (You may wider than the thickness of your vise and cut the tails, as shown
also use the pattern provided stock, and then scribe baselines in Photo D. Focus on executing
on page 28.) Using this master on both faces of the end (A) and clean cuts that are perpendicular
template, make a full-width bottom (B) boards. Next, align the to the face of the board. (Because
dovetail template on a 7'1h"-wide dovetail template with the scribed you will use this piece to lay out
strip of aluminum flashing line on the outside face of an end the mating pins, it's OK if your
(available at home supply and trace the tails, as shown in vertical angle is a little off.)
stores). Then carefully cut the Photo C. Use a square to extend 4 To remove the waste between
template, as shown in Photo B. the tail lines across the end grain. the tails, change saws and start
[Note: Tracing is faster and easier Now repeat the process with by sawing most of it away, as
than individually laying out the the other end board. (For better shown in Photo E. Next, clean out
the remaining material with a
freshly-honed chisel (Photo F).
(You may also want to use a
knife to clean out the corners.)
5 Clamp the bottom (B)
vertically into a vise, position
the end board (A) on top, and
then lay out the pins, as shown
in Photo G. Make sure that the
edges of both pieces are flush
and that the baseline on the
end aligns with the inside face
of the bottom. (For reaching
between the tails, I prefer
using a thin-bladed carving
knife.) Remove the end board,
and then use a small square to
As you saw to the layout lines, let your dovetail saw extend the pin marks down to
do the work. Stop just a hair shy of the baseline. the baseline on both faces.
6 Clamp the bottom (B) in your to the baseline. (I prefer (Note: Don't assemble/
bench vise and saw the pins. As sawing my pins a bit fat, disassemble more often
before, use a dovetail saw to cut and then paring them for a than absolutely necessary.
down to your baseline, remove perfect fit.) Test the fit, make Too many test-fits can create
the bulk of the waste with a any needed adjustments, and gaps or cause damage
jeweler's saw, and then pare then repeat the operation to a pin or tail.)
away the remaining wood on the opposite end.
Tip Alert
Wedged To Perfection When laying out the pins and
If you d iscover a gap or two in Next, cut a strip of wood from a when test-fitting the joint, be sure
your dovetail joints, don't fret- matching piece of scrap to fit the to use the matching end panel.
there's an easy fix. First, glue up kerf. Glue in the strip, allow time
the joint. After the glue dries, to dry, and then trim it flush.
saw along the offending gap. (For a super-tight patch, cut
the filler piece slightly oversize
in thickness, and compress it
in a vise. It will swell up in the
gap when you add the glue.)
Lay out and cut outside your lines. Next, (I prefer cutting my tenons a
the mortises stack the two end pieces bit fat, and then trimming the
1 Using a marking gauge, lay together using double-faced cheeks to fit with a shoulder
out the side mortises on the tape to keep them aligned, plane.) At the handsaw, cut
inside faces of the end boards and then sand the pair on an the curved profile and the
(A). Chuck a !/a" brad-point oscillating spindle sander. kerfs for the wedges.
or Forstner bit in your drill 5 Use a spokeshave to remove
press, and remove the bulk of Custom-fit the saw marks on the handle,
the waste for the sides (C) and handle and sides refine the curve, and round
handle (D), where shown on 1 Crosscut the sides (C) and over the sharp edges. You can
Figure 1 and as seen in Photo H. handle (D) to fit your tote. choose to leave tool marks, or
When drilling the 1 A"-deep Adjust the length of the handle if you wish, you can continue
holes for the sides, use a fence so that the shoulder-to-shoulder smoothing the handle with a
to ensure perfect alignment. distance is equal to the tote's scraper and sanding blocks.
Position a backer board under inside dimension, and the tenons 6 You're now ready to dry-fit
the end to prevent blow-out protrude past the ends by 1,4". your tote. The trick here is to
when drilling the through 2 Using a table-mounted take your time. Starting with
mortise for the handle. router and beading bit, rout one corner, attach one end (A)
2 Using freshly-honed chisels, the bottom edge of the side to the bottom (B) and carefully
clean up the drilled mortises in panels (C), where shown in drive the dovetails just short of
the ends (A). To pare the sides Figure 1. (Even though this is a home (Photo K). (Work slowly
of the shallow blind mortises, light cut, I routed the profile in while watching and listening
I used a 1"-wide chisel, as two passes to prevent tear-out.) closely for any splitting.)
shown in Photo I, and a ~/1" 3 Using the pattern provided Next, insert the sides (C) and
wide chisel to pare the mortise on page 28, create a half- handle (D) and then test-fit
ends. To clean up the though pattern for the handle, and then the opposite end (Photo L).
mortise for the handle, clamp a trace the curve on your stock. 7 Carefully disassemble your
guide block against your layout Double-check the shoulder-to- tote. If you're so inclined, now's
line, as shown in Photo J. shoulder length for a tight fit. the time to sand the inside
3 Cut the curves on each 4 Outfit your tablesaw with a surfaces. Just remember to
end board (A) separately on dado head, and cut the tenon go easy around the joinery to
the handsaw, staying slightly shoulders on the handle (D). avoid introducing any gaps.
26 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2013
Set the sides and handle
Use light taps when attaching the end to the bottom. If the parts require in place before attaching
too much persuasion, remove the end and pare the offending pins. the opposite end.
'
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Shaft Detail
Note: Shaded areas
receive dadoes.
Amber mica - 1
• 11" cap nut
.--..___ Two-light
pull-chain cluster
1
1." dado, V. deep,
8 11
- ,, ..--- 11" chamfers
centered ""' at ends only
Leg Detail
'
.,.,.,..-
~"chamfers --------:
%" counterbore
washer with %6 hole11
-......________ 2" dado, 31." deep, on bottom
centered face with 1"/s1t"
through hole
1
1111 chamfers
Build the base first to face, aligning the channels. the edges of the veneers and
1 Mill enough quartersawn oak Wipe off any squeeze-out. Let shaft halves flush. You goal is to
stock for the shaft halves (A), dry, and then joint and plane achieve a 1\.~ x 1'1h" shaft that
corbels (C), legs (D), and feet (E) both glue-joint faces to end up displays quartersawn figure
to the thicknesses in the Cut List. with a 1 1,4 x 11h" shaft blank. all around. Cut the lamination
2 Cut two ~,4"-thick pieces to 3 Resaw and plane two 1/1"- to the final shaft length.
1~le" wide x 16" long for the shaft thick shaft veneers (B) from 4 With a dado set and miter
halves (A). Now, rout 1h" channels quartersawn oak stock. Laminate gauge extension fence, cut the
1
f.t." deep on one face of each piece the veneers to the glue-joint centered !,4" notches 1h" deep in
where shown in the Shaft Detail shaft surfaces. (See the Shaft the top end of the shaft (A/B) as
in Figure 1. Glue the pieces face Detail in Figure 1.) Now, sand shown in Photo A. Make one cut,
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Eric Stashak: Illustrations: Christopher Mills April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 31
Use a triangular scrap piece to keep the shaft With a !A" blade, stack-cut the corbels at the
snug to the fence while cutting the notches. bandsaw, staying just outside the line.
11
~ chamfer - - .,. ~
~-+---
Use the jig handles to safely move the curved base against the bit's
bearing as you flush-trim the corbel, cutting with the grain.
Fence
3
/. x 1 x 14Y2 11
% 11 chamfers <r:--./ -~
111
•
2%11
11
#8 x 11h - -- Base
3
~ 14~
11
flathead screw x5x
I .
Note: Use corbel pattern to :: u11-s i2Pd- 0-a ttP( n ;::u _a iJ~ b Ie.fn ::.. d-0'"' oJo.c .cl
I
turn the shaft 90° so an adjacent remaining three pieces. Use the exposed edges of the base parts
face is against the fence, and corbel shape in the jig's base to lay (feet, legs, shaft, and corbels),
make the second cut. Note that out the narrow chamfered ends where shown in Figure 1. Center
the extension fence prevents of the corbels. Finally, handsaw and glue the feet (E) onto the legs
tear-out on the trailing shaft face. and disc-sand the ends to the line. (D) so they extend !/•" beyond
5 Cut four pieces of ~A"-thick 8 Cut two legs (D) to size from the edges and ends. Now apply
oak to 3 x 11". Stack the pieces ~1'"-thick oak. Using a dado set glue in the cross-lap dadoes
together using double-faced and miter gauge extension and clamp the legs together.
tape, aligning the ends and fence, cut the 2" cross-lap 13 With a pair of!i/t1"-thick
edges. Either adhere a copy dadoes 3/~" deep in the legs, spacers that have 'S/1~" rabbets
3
of the Corbel Pattern on the where shown in Figure 1. /e" deep along one edge, glue
top piece aligning it at one end 9 Drill centered -S/~" shank holes and clamp the corbels (C) onto
and one edge, or cut out the in the legs (D), where shown the shaft (A/B), ensuring the
pattern and scribe it onto the in the Leg Detail in Figure 1, parts are centered and flush at
piece as I did. Now, stack-cut the countersinking the holes on the the bottom end (Photo D). Use
corbels (C) to rough shape at the bottom faces for #8 screws. a moderate amount out of glue
handsaw, as shown in Photo B. 10 From s;~" stock, cut four to avoid squeeze-out. Let it dry.
6 Make the Corbel Jig in Figure feet (E) to size, and then 14 Clamp the shaft/corbel
2. First, tran sfer the Corbel rout 1/s"chamfers along three assembly (A/B/C) upside down
Pattern along one edge of a 5 x of four top edges, where in a bench vise. Add the legs/feet
141h" base piece where shown shown in Figure 1. Leave the assemblies (D/E) at the bottom
and handsaw it to rough shape. chamfering setup for Step 12. end of the shaft. Now, insert
Now, sand to the line at the 11 Return to the drill press and, the threaded steel nipple in the
oscillating spindle sander for a using a 7/8 Forstner bit, drill a
11
shaft, and temporarily add the
1
smooth, clean edge, replicating h"-deep counterbore centered washers and hex nuts at the top
the pattern exactly. Cut the other in the bottom face of the unglued and bottom of the lamp base to
parts. Drill the holes in the fence feet assembly. Switch to a 3/a" clamp the assemblies together.
where shown and glue and pin- brad-point bit, and drill a through Align and center the top faces
nail the fence and stop to the hole at the same location. Enlarge of the legs over the corbels, and
base. Screw on the handles. the hole to 1 ~h~" using a twist bit. tighten the nuts. Guiding off the
7 Separate the four corbels (C), (If your brad-point bit collection countersunk holes drilled earlier,
and screw one of them in the includes the less common 13/~2" drill ~h:l" screw pilot holes in the
jig for a firm hold. Now, with a bit size, skip drilling the 3/e" hole corbels, as shown in Photo E.
top-bearing flush-trim bit, flush- and drill the 1 ~h~" hole with it.) Remove the hardware. The two
trim the corbel at the router 12 At the router table, cut assemblies will be screwed
1/s" chamfers on the outside or
table (Photo C). Repeat for the together later after finishing.
Silicone caulk
(to hold mica 50° ...
panels in place) Half-lap joint
67~
0
beveled edges
(set miter gauge
angle at 22~ )
0
Build the shade display quartersawn figure miter gauge 40° to the right or
1 Mill enough stock for the on the parts' outside faces. left of 90° as needed. Hold two
upper rails (F), lower rails (G), 2 Lock in the miter gauge and mating pieces together, as shown
side rails (H), and shade supports extension fence to 40° from 90°. in Photo G, to test the fit. Adjust
(I) to the widths and thicknesses Referring to Figure 3, miter-cut the rabbet depth and/or the saw
in the Cut List. Mill enough the shade frame pieces-plus fenceifneeded.Then,proceed
extra material for test cuts and extras-for the upper rails (F), rabbeting the shade frame parts
setups. Precision is critical here. lower rails (G), and side rails (F, G, H), cutting one end of
Note: Prior to cutting the 50° (H). Use stops and make test each piece at one setting. Then
miters on the shade parts, cuts on the extra pieces to sneak adjust the miter gauge angle
orient the cutting stock to up on the exact part lengths. to rabbet the opposite ends.
3 Install a dado set in the 4 Build the Shade Frame
tablesaw, and raise the blade Clamping Jig in Figure 4. Apply
Tip Alert to ~/9", Set the saw fence 1,4it-" glue in the rabbets, and clamp
Bevel the inside end of the miter from the dado set to prevent an upper rail (F), lower rail (G),
gauge extension fence at 50° for gouging its face. Using a miter and side rails (H) together in the
zero-clearance support at the saw gauge extension fence, cut test jig to create one shade frame,
fence. Dado-cut the frame parts rabbets on the scrap pieces to as shown in Photo H. Wipe
twice to counter any deflection. the needed width and depth, as away any squeeze-out with a
shown in Photo F, adjusting the clean, moistened rag. Let the
glue dry, and repeat the process Figure 4: Shade Assembly Clamping Jig
to make the other three shade
frames. Sand the joints smooth. Base
Stop
5 Using a rabbeting bit and ~ x 181' x l lh" 3
,4" plywood
bearing having the appropriate I t
l
1'h"
diameter, rout the 5hf>" rabbets
1
h " deep in increments around
the inside faces of the shade 7~"
50° '
frames (F/G/H). Clean up
the lower rabbeted corners ---~y-~-~-~--
~-~-:=::~
',- -.......
~'
_ - 17" --
with a 3A"-diameter Forstner I
--
----~·
bit, as shown in Photo I.
Clean up any unevenness in 11
1 pin na ils
the corners with a chisel.
6 At the tablesaw, tilt the blade
I
I
the shade frames as shown in and assemble the lamp shade as Make the cuts in the top faces
Photo J. Here, you want to keep shown in Photo L. Wipe up any of the shade supports, where
the outside faces up and make squeeze-out. After the glue dries, shown in Figure 1, keeping
sure the blade cuts right along sand the shade assembly smooth. the short legs of the notches
the outside corner of the side (H). 9 From 1h " stock, cut the shade to the outside ends. Note that
7 Working from the other miter supports (I) to size. Cut 3,4" the bottom angled edges of the
slot and using the same miter dadoes, 1,4" deep at the center shade's lower rails (G) must seat
gauge setting and blade angle, flip on the opposing faces of each in the corners of the notches
the frames top to bottom, placing piece. Temporarily assemble the established by the marks.
their outside faces down. Now, supports, and place the shade 10 Disc-sand 1/e" chamfers
bevel-cut the frame's opposite on the assembly, centering it. on the ends of the supports
side (H), as shown in Photo K. Mark exactly where the shade (I). Temporarily fit the pieces
8 Working on a flat surface, contacts the supports. Next, together, and test their fit in the
apply glue to the beveled edges angle the dado set at 3 31h 0 and notches at the top end of the
of the shade frames (F/G/H), adjust the height to cut 1,4" deep. shaft. Rest the shade assembly
rabbeted shade frames (F/G/H). 2. Freud Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit, #845409 $35.47
14 Wire the lamp as described 11 11
~.4 D, l 11 CL (% SH)
maker Tom Svec Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice.
has maintained
a workshop and 06. 1
/8 11 IPS Brass Hex Nut, 2 needed NU424 .• $ .10 ea.
010. I
he creates
011. Two-Light Pull Chain Cluster, Antique Brass CLSAB2PW $10.00
and builds his
I
tomsvecfurniture.com. Above item is available at Asheville-Schoonmaker Mica Co., www.ashevillemica.com or by calling (800) 385- I
I
7311. Prices subject to change without notice. '
'
u ck And sy Setup
We ghs J t 23 lbs.
Far A :Free CBtalQg Or To rid Your ocal Woodortlft Store s wDOdcrattcom Dr C.aU 800-225 153.
8
3\
Far lnlonnat1an 011 !Wbodcrall eta IF ncNlso ti i t woodcr f frat a.cam
•
•
Use the match-maker chart
for all of your glue-up needs
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Unless your woodworking Eventually, you'll start There are dozens of choices,
projects are limited to in on a project only to find but selecting a suitable adhesive
knockdown furniture and that your go-to glue may not needn't be dizzying. I've divided
timber-frame barns, you are satisfy the bonding needs of the woodworking glues into a few
already quite familiar with a the materials or task at hand. basic catego ries and provided
variety of tubes, bottles, bags When that happens, you'll a side-by-side comparison to
and jugs of this sticky stuff. find yourself at the mercy of help you quickly weigh your
Over the years, you've probably catalogs and home centers options. In addition to the
grown used to working with looking for the perfect product. quick-reference chart on page
a few favorites, and even 40, you'll find adhesive advice
learned some tricks to deal focusing on common problems,
with less-desirable qualities. as well as valuable suggestions
destined to stick with you.
e 0 ~m e.s m nule!. ut
00 mlruJlr aa u~ i
4 2 hou
Cleanup w r
ad mv
nee ype II)
2 nd 1ni
Otes
r
•
1- --
/A D
D m 1nLJl .. ~
Amber
l.!J •
1 :ear
SS ror sa • 2 mla
8 t tee for wet Be far q paer
~d nd lbe n Kt.el~aa\or or
mnus bo 'MOc1d to nst11 t bonds... Kt.ep
Lllck no11 wood • bottle Of dei>aDder
n6f ar 1tt1den I
<JPlll~
Cure time: The time it takes for a glue joint glues to spoil prematurely. Under ideal
to achieve full 100% bonding strength. conditions, adhesives remain useable for
Shelf life: The period of time that glue longer time periods. If a glue appears
remains useable. (Note: Excessive heat, humidity, abnormal, test first, or toss it in the trash.)
or repeated freeze/thaw cycles will cause
Fl ox
ec ss G a •es, r splr: tors. o es,, nd
I e dece t
av en , b t I re c-oocern d
btl l
daesn t na
' I r
p )ect.s, e:r:e p e ns • b e
u I nes nd a ,
I m n o s th t os st1a e I I
true res. c e p can cp-eJ 0 n fa lu
D ta a
Avoid! t lue 1ost. b
c n er Ion -te I rls
0
0 1 re po
h s ore co
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t ep ' ·:S st nee. A
n,~ , po nt ot b nfe, •
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ork1n • n n tv. 1 ., co 1fort b •ork n m
ndcu 5; Uri • fClir com I c t d I -ups
lreae o on e nutes, b b t keep tl1 la r p:s on unn
0 e con d r bl s r ngtt1. n I c re o th · f o c
ca s o n s ro open. o
Slo on Il l ncl liqu d llU (
o en hd 0 n
u - flo •er n tu r
Fast! Hot tt d gl e tac s time_. t •II :so bu ' or n e.
utesr ut " • ad d b f
AYO d! DI r
I her: ·s d ff renc d nta ew a I <:ur
t proof onser t o~ pr
ter--r s st l I ~ t va• -otd.
s Ion gu r t sefu
o p 'e gl e c b· te o d r~ lam n e.
s h name .__ _
:o In
'"r'"'• m ng
u .. It
I Dark c
Ji/ II
• /I
I
75°
2" --
Floor glide Dry-assemble leg between rails (E&H)
#8 x 1Vt" stainless to determine location of leg notches.
steel roundhead screw
~
centerline - 1"
I
..
i
-- I 2"
Loose
_,. i!l~ll
1 I
> tenon
I I
I
0
I
I
1Ya" -..121A"t
I
I
Mortise
I
~;~~---~~~~---___,~
Opening photo: Paul Anthony; Project photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: John Hartman April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 45
V.-20 knob with
through hole
----- Top 1314 x 3 x 14"
V.-20 x 1'h"
hex bolt
6 Mount the second long 10 The mortise on one end mortise on one end of each end
rail (A) onto the jig with its of each end rail (B) will align rail (B) and crosspiece (C), and
show face oriented inward, with the setup you just used to slide them in place, aligning their
and rout all of its mortises. mortise the crosspieces (C). Cut edges with the reference marks
7 Lay out the mortises on both mortises in those particular on the long rails. As you work,
ends of both end rails (B), and one ends of both end rails. Then be sure to keep the show sides of
end of one crosspiece (C), where reposition the stops to mortise all the pieces properly oriented.
shown in Figure 1. Mark the show the two opposite ends. 14 With the assembly standing
face of each piece with an "X''. 11 Mill at least 64" of 1h "-thick on edge, spread glue in the
8 Swap the jig's horizontal x 2s;._""-wide stock for loose opposite mortises of the end rails
fence for the vertical fence, tenons. (When thicknessing the (B) and crosspieces (C). Spread
and screw toggle clamps to the stock, ensure that it fits snugly glue on the rest of the tenons
fence. Clamp the marked-out in the mortises without force.) and tap them in place. Finally,
crosspiece (C) in the jig with While you're at it, cut the same spread glue in the mortises of the
the show side facing inward, amount for each bench you're second long rail. Start attaching
and reposition the stops to suit making. Bullnose the edges of the rail at one end, working
the mortise location. Leave the stock using a 1,4" round- your way along its length. When
the edge guide set as it was. over bit in a table-mounted all the joints are together and
9 Rout the mortise in the end of router. Then crosscut the properly aligned, add clamps to
the crosspiece (C), as shown in individual tenons to 2" long. pull the assembly tight. (Don't
Photo C. Then unclamp it, rotate 12 Enlist someone to help you worry about protecting the edges
it end for end in the jig, and with the glue-up, as there is a from clamp damage, as you'll
rout the other end, still keeping lot of glue to spread and a lot of be cutting them away later.)
the show side against the jig. pieces to align. First, perform a 15 Referring to the Tabletop
Repeat for every crosspiece. complete dry-assembly to check Mortise Layout in Figure 1,
the fits of the joints, to set up
your clamps, and to rehearse
Tip Alert Tip Alert
your assembly procedures.
When cutting mortises with this 13 When you're ready to glue Orienting each workpiece "show"
jig, apply firm pressure with your up, begin by spreading glue in face against the mortising jig
left hand to keep the router flat the mortises of one of the long ensures that the assembled show
on top of the jig and the edge rails (A). Then spread glue on surfaces align regardless of an
guide riding along the jig's edge. that rail's tenons, and tap them off-center machining setup.
home. Spread glue in the mating
mark the location of each of 2 Crosscut both ends of the two the four notches, clamp the end
the four corners of the top. end legs (D) to 75°, as shown in legs (D) in place between them.
Then drive a finish nail 1,4" Figure 1. Crosscut one end of Then hold the center runners (F)
outside each of those marks, each of the side legs (G) to 78°. in place to mark them for their
as shown in Photo D. 3 Set up a dado head on your notches, and then cut the notches
16 Bend a strip of 1A"-thick, tablesaw, configuring it for as using the same dado head setup.
straight-grained wood against wide a cut as possible. Adjust the 5 Increase the height of the
11
the nails, and trace along it to height to :SJi6 Use a miter gauge
• dado blade to exactly half the
lay out the curves, as shown in set at 75° to feed the end legs width of the rails and runners
Photo E. Cut to your layout line (D) over the blade to create the (theoretically 11h "). Referring
with a jigsaw, and sand the curves 3"-wide angled rabbets shown to Figure 1, lay out pairs of
fair and smooth. Round over the in Figure 1. Reverse the miter mating notches where the
edges with a 1,4"-radius round- gauge angle to cut the opposite center rails and runners (E, F)
over bit in a handheld router. sides, as shown in Photo F. intersect the cross rails and
4 While you have the dado head runners (H, I). The distance
Make the table base set up, cut the mating notches between the notches should be
1 Mill the pieces for the legs (D, in the center rails (E). Locate equal to the distance between
G), rails (E, H), and runners (F, I) these notches 4 3Ai" in from ends each pair of runners (and rails)
to the sizes listed in the Cut List. of the stretchers. After you cut with the legs clamped in place
4"
1"
·- - 111-4" notch, V. 11
deep
6 Once the glue dries, lay out registering the leg against the the Cut List, and saw the bevel
the curves on the ends of the fence, angle it so its end is flush on each end of the beam.
benchtop using your fairing strip. with the top of the jig (Photo J). 8 Set up a dado head on the
The benchtop is narrow enough 5 Rip enough tenon stock to tablesaw and cut 1A"-deep
that there's no need to support the 11h6 to use for joining the bases,
11
notches in the center of each
strip with nails. Simply brace the and then crosscut them to fit cleat (N) and runner (0),
strip against your leg, and bend it the mortises you just routed. where shown in Figure 2. Cut
with one hand as you trace with Working with each end assembly mating 1A"-deep notches in each
the other. Round over all of the in turn, dry-fit the legs (M) to stretcher (P), and 1 1"1"-deep
edges with a 1/4" round-over bit. the cleat (N), put the runner notches in each beam (Q).
(0) in place, and then mark 9 Glue the leg assemblies
Make the bench bases out the runner mortises based together, as shown in Photo K.
1 Cut the legs (M), cleats (N), and on the positions of the legs. 10 Glue and screw each
runners (0) to size. Crosscut the 6 Rout mortises in the runners stretcher (P) and beam (Q) in
ends of the legs to 81°. Arrange (0) using the mortising jig place with #8 x 2" screws.
the parts for each end assembly outfitted with its horizontal fence. 11 Cut the braces (R) to the
(M, N, 0) in their final orientation, 7 Cut the stretcher (P) and thickness and width listed in the
as shown in Figure 2. Then beam (Q) to the sizes shown in Cut List, but leave them a couple
mark what will be the exterior
face of each part with an "X'' for
orientation in the mortising jig.
2 Lay out the mortises on one of
the cleats (N) and on the upper
end of each of two paired legs
(M), where shown in Figure 2.
3 Cut the mortises in the
undersides of the cleats (N) using
the horizontal fence on your
mortising jig, as you did when
mortising the top rails (J). Mount
the pieces on the jig with the
marked face oriented inward.
4 Change to the vertical fence to
rout a mortise in the upper end Clamping a keystone-shaped wedge between the legs can help
of each leg. However, instead of even out the pressure and allow the joints to draw up tight.
Finishing
1 Apply a clear finish that is
formulated for outdoor use. The The braces add needed strength to the benches
pieces in the lead photo were while echoing the table's angled legs.
treated with Cabot's Australian
Timber Oil. I've found that a Outdoor Table and Benches Cut List .
yearly recoating with this product Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat' I
will keep your table and benches Table
looking good, despite whatever A* Long rails 1~/e" 41h" 62" 2 c
Mother Natu re dishes out. B End rails 1!fs" 41/i" 29V." 2 c
2 After the finish is dry, fas ten c Crosspieces ' 13/s" 311411 29V." 14 c
'
the table base to its top with D End legs 111811 311'11 28%" 2 c
#8 x 31h" roundhead screws E Center rails 13/s" 3" 56" 2 c
counterbored 1h" deep into the F Center runners 1!fB" 3" . 43" 2 c
underside of the center rails '
www.woodcratt.com
MAR.
- ~
www.franmar.com
5 o Ogal b1ns.
Po bto th
ca ters.
Solution
Depending upon the severity of
the degradation you have two For badly damaged pieces, a A stiff-bristled brush and
choices. For projects like the power-washer and a cleaning lots of elbow grease clean
chair, I recommend pressure- solution provide the first step. entrenched grime at little cost.
washing the entire piece at a low
setting using a wide-nozzle tip on If you don't have access to a Photo B. Avoid a wire brush as
the wand, as shown in Photo A. power washer, spray the piece the hard stiff bristles may cause
Rinse the entire piece first. Then, down with a garden hose and deep scratches in the wood,
power-wash it with a commercial scrub the grime off, as shown in which will have to be sanded.
solution to clean and brighten
the wood. Or, save a few bucks by
mixing your own solution. I used When power-washing outdoor furniture, start with the lowest setting,
one quart of household bleach, hold the nozzle end of the wand about 18" away to start, and move closer
one-third cup of powdered if necessary. Too high of a pressure setting or a tip held too close can
laundry soap, and three quarts of damage the wood, much like sandblasting. Power-washer spray tips come
water. A raincoat, safety glasses, in different spray patterns, with the range spanning from 0° to 40°. The
and gloves come in handy for wider the angle, the more surface area covered, but with less impact.
protection against splatter.
Solution
Use a moisture meter for an accurate reading of an outdoor project's The best way to avoid cracking
dampness level before attempting to sand or apply finish. Woods, and checking is to seal the
such as cedar and redwood, should be 12% (or less) moisture content. wood project properly during
construction to keep moisture
out, and then reseal it regularly.
When cracks occur on weathered
Outdoor Screws pieces, fill them as shown in
Considering the number of break more easily than other Photo E, and then sand the
screws needed for an outdoor screws. For ACQ (alkaline copper pieces smooth once the filler
furniture piece, it doesn't make quaternary) pressure-treated dries. For minute cracks filler
sense to skimp on quality. lumber, stainless steel or multi- will do, but for damaged areas
Stainless steel is by far your best coated screws are a good choice. requiring repair or buildup, use
choice, though more costly. The treated wood can accelerate a two-part epoxy-based putty.
For many exterior applications, corrosion of galvanized fasteners. Note, the closer you can shape
the maintenance-free service life the putty to the original surface,
1. Stainless Steel Screw (bugle
of stainless steel screws makes head, square drive) the less sanding you'll have to
it relatively easy to justify their 2. Solid Brass Wood Screw do after the putty hardens.
higher cost compared to plated (Phillips flathead)
products. While brass 3. Triple-Coated Deck Screw (two
layers of coating over a galvanized
screws look good, they undercoating, star drive) For optimal results, choose
4. DECKMATE (polymer-plated, putty that dries hard with
flathead, star drive) minimal shrinkage, such as a
5. Kreg Protec- Kote Deck Screws two-part epoxy-based putty
(flat-bottom head, self-
tapping, square drive)
developed for exterior use.
56
Replace suspect
hardware
Problem
Rusty or broken screws, as
well as stripped screw holes,
cause joints to fail; hinges To remove a broken screw, use A flush-trim saw works best
can wear out requiring full a screw extractor to minimize for trimming plugs even with
hardware replacement. damage to the surrounding wood. the surrounding surface.
Outdoor Finishes
Even the best outdoor finish will need to be refreshed water repellants. Exterior finishes either penetrate
every few years. The best finishes are those that the wood or form a film on the surface. Penetrating
protect against the effects of the sun's rays and finishes tend to give a more natural look to wood
moisture. Typically, they will have UV inhibitors and than film-forming finishes, and they are usually easier
to reapply as they don't need to be stripped first if cracked and flaking. In such cases, removing the finish
they were used as the original finish. Film-forming to expose bare wood is required before refinishing.
finishes such as paint last the longest, but can be the Shown below are five types of exterior finishes, with
most time-consuming to repair if the original coat is the longevity of the finish increasing from left to right.
Water-Based Milk
Paint (exterior
acrylic latex by
General Finishes)
n this-the magazine's 3 Stick a couple of small pieces At the scrollsaw, poke the blade
first installment in teaching of double-faced tape on one through the hole and cut out
woodworking to kids-11 year-old end piece, and stack the second the opening. With the same
Collin Kidd from Parkersburg, piece on top, making sure the drill bit, drill the ventilation
West Virginia, and I make a ends and edges are even. Cut hole in the back end where
bluebird house out of decay- out a photocopy of the Bluebird shown in the pattern.
resistant cedar. In the process, House End Pattern. Spray 7 Crosscut a 1h " piece of cedar
I introduce him to a variety the back of the pattern with to 121h " long. Bevel-rip one
of tools and show him how to adhesive, and carefully adhere edge at 35° and the other at
use them safely. I separated it to the top of the stack. 76° to achieve a final width
the tasks so that the more 4 Now, handsaw along the of 6 1/i~". (See Figure 1.) Then,
challenging steps (work done pattern cutlines to make the ends crosscut sides (B) to 6".
at the tablesaw and jointer, for (A), as shown in Photo A. Sand 8 Add pieces of masking tape
instance, and shown here in the edges smooth with a sanding to the front and back ends (A).
blue) are the ones I performed block and 100-grit sandpaper. Now, apply glue to the ends
while Collin did the rest. 5 Use the marks along the edges
of the pattern to drill 1/i(J" nail
Tip Alert
Make the parts pilot holes through the ends (A)
1 Mill a ~A" x 8" x 4' cedar at the drill press. Pilot holes keep Because of the defects common
board to 11h " thick. Mill a the nails from going in crooked in cedar, start with an 8'-long
2'-long piece to 1,4" thick. and the cedar from splitting. board and cut around the knots
2 From 1h " cedar, crosscut Now, pry the ends apart. and other defects to get the
two pieces for the ends 6 Using the pattern, drill two clearest pieces possible.
(A) to 101h " long. 1
fal" holes in the door opening.
of the sides (B) and tape the Figure 1: Birdhouse Exploded View Bracket Pattern
pieces (A, B) together ensuring (Fu II-Sized)
they are flush. Drill pilot holes
for nails with a cordless drill,
as shown in Photo B. Next, tap #17 x 3/."
nails into the assembly to secure stainless .1,4" rabbet,
the ends. Set the nail heads. steel brad 'A" deep
'
Photos: Jim Osborn; Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach Ill April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 61
Projects for Kids
V. 11 ventilation hole
in back end only
,_.. ~ blade
11
I
II DC
- a u
a all o lud d h
B 5 lor no
ne In n
6 «!ft l -u e..
7
ure r P'or •
April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 63
orking wood can be a emerge either ratty or ready, all or performing some fancier
messy business. And I'm not depending on how you handle maneuver using a special jig.
referring to the sawdust, wood them. Here, I'll show you how These simple preventative
chips, and shavings left behind in to guard against tear-out on measures yield big results in the
the wake of a project. I'm talking the tablesaw, whether you're way of clean looking projects,
about the rough, scarred surfaces making a simple crosscut and time saved fixing errors.
remaining on the work itself if
you're not careful to prevent tear-
out during cutting procedures. Know Your Enemy
And the damage can happen Tablesaw tear-out occurs as the saw teeth exit the work, breaking
when performing just about any through and pushing aside the outermost layer of wood fibers
kind of cut, including sawing, rather than severing them cleanly. Tear-out is not really an issue
routing, jointing, and planing. when ripping; it's cuts made across the grain that see damage.
One potential arena of tear- Truth is, tear-out from sawing is unavoidable. Look at a "clean"
out destruction is the tablesaw. crosscut under strong magnification, and you'll see tear-out,
Boards and sheet goods that although minute. And that's the idea-to keep it to a minimum.
pass through this machine can
'
All purpose . / Tear-out free
ripping and crosscutting
crosscutting esp. in plywood
'------------------------~~
Perfect post-
rabbet dado
Bottom face Top Face
The cleanly cut right-hand half of this miter joint was A well planned cut sequence can eliminate tear-
sawn with the show face upward, while the left-hand out completely. In this case, a rabbet removes the
half suffered tear-out from being cut upside down. exit tear-out from the previously cut dadoes.
Photos: Paul Anthony, courtesy of The Taunton Press® April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 65
A zero clearance insert (ZCI) is an Outfitting your miter gauge with cut on the offcut side because
inexpensive accessory that will an auxiliary fence will reduce you need that piece, simply
stand constant guard against tear-out when the fence extends extend the auxiliary fence
excessive tear-out (Photo C). all the way to the blade, as past the blade (Photo F). The
The slot on a ZCI is made by the shown in Photos D and E. In this end of an auxiliary fence that
blade itself, leaving virtually no case, the fence prevents tear-out abuts the blade (or the kerf in a
gap between the saw teeth and at the rear edge of the "keeper" fence that straddles the blade)
the sides of the slot. This means piece, which is held against will also serve as a blade path
that the wood fibers are fully the fence. If you want a clean reference for quick cut setup.
supported on the exit side of the
kerf, resulting in cleaner cuts. (As
1
a bonus, narrow rippings can t
drop into the throat plate gap.)
You'll want a variety of zero-
clearance inserts to suit various
cutters, including standard
and thin-kerf blades, as well
as dado heads set up for cuts
of different widths. ZCI blanks
are available commercially in a
selection of materials including
UHMW (polyethylene plastic),
phenolic, and laminated plywood.
'
The unbacked fibers at the end of the open The easily replaceable backer on this
mortise at the bottom tore away. The mortise tenoning jig attaches with two screws
at the top was backed during the cut. driven through the rear of the fence.
Suit the backer to the cut and workpiece. For The rear wall of this splining cradle is covered
example, miter a backer's end to provide full with a thin plywood backer that can be shifted
support for a workpiece's mitered end. to a fresh section when necessary.
• •
I -
North America~s
do-it-all lumber
By Pete Stephano
Technical Consultant: Larry Osborn
The utility A-2 grade, Sfil" How to select "white"), meaning you'll pay
birch plywood runs about $70 the best stock a premium for color-selected
per 4x8' sheet at home centers. Only specialty wood suppliers stock. Note, too, that yellow birch
The higher face grade AA costs or lumber outlets offer yellow from the northern part of its
more; lesser faces, such as B birch lumber. Birch hardwood growing range will be heavier
and C, cost less. Most lumber plywood, however, is more and contain a finer grain than
outlets carry thinner stock, widely available, although wood from the southern region.
too, for use as panels in frame- not all retail outlets will Birch plywood can also be
and-panel cabinet doors. Baltic carry a wide selection of graded and sold by its color, just
and Finnish birch plywoods are grades and thicknesses. like birch. The highest grade
made in Europe of extra-thin Normally, yellow birch has is white, followed by uniform
(1A~") thickness of void-free a light yellow to nearly white light, and natural. Lower paint
alder and birch plies for the core narrow band of sapwood. The and shop grades cost less. At
and top-notch birch veneers for heartwood ranges from cream a home center, the mid-level
the faces. The Finnish variety to tan to reddish tan, and may grade stock will vary widely
utilizes exterior adhesive for even have tinges of gray or red. in appearance from sheet to
outdoor use. Neither of these For projects, choose boards sheet, and contain minor natural
is available in 4x8' sheets, but for color uniformity, avoiding defects, varying amounts of
rather 60x60" sheets and in those with both heartwood and heartwood and slightly less
thicknesses from 4mm (1/1") to sapwood as these can cause uniform core material. If you're
18mm (S,4") in approximately problems when color-matching. able to sort through the stack for
1 the best-looking sheets, you'll
,4" increments. Apple-ply is the Because commercial demand for
American-made version. It comes light-colored wood is so strong, save some money compared to
in 4x8' and smaller panels and birch, like maple, is often graded buying the top white grades
standard thicknesses (_1,4-11h "). and sold by its color ("sap" or at a hardwood lumberyard.
Working yellow
It's A Fact That ... birch in the shop
The enormous flying boat nicknamed "The Spruce Goose" built by Because yellow birch is nearly
Hughes Aircraft of California in the mid-1940s wasn't really made as hard as sugar maple, it
of spruce. Due to its strength-to-weight ratio, North American dulls cutters, so if you don't
yellow birch was the primary wood in its construction. Solid stock presently use carbide-tipped
became wing and fuselage framing and veneer was laid up in blades and cutters, start now.
laminations for all skin surfaces except those for control (ailerons, Compared to maple, yellow
rudder, etc.), which were fabric covered. The giant seaplane had a birch machines better, because
320' wingspan and weighed 400,000 pounds. It flew only once- it doesn't tear-out during edge-
over a mile 70' above Long Beach harbor on November 2, 1947. jointing, or burn as easily. Due
to its hardness, yellow birch
Ph ot os: Jim Osborn; Illu stration : St eve Sanford April/May 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 69
Wood Sense Figured
curly birch
I 11
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SC n
Do .e
150 2
ro ec-Kote
O k re ~
For Afree Catal~ Or o i1d our neat oodoraft Store sit wooacrattcom Dr can 800·225 8
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The right tools for playing all the angles =Good
hey say the devil lives in the make the difference between a They include the ability to
details, but woodworkers know finished frame and firewood. measure an angle, to transfer
the pointy-tailed imp's street Armed with a few appropriate or lay out an angle, and to
address-the corner of Bevel and angle gauges, you can keep that set machine components to
Miter. The problem with these devil at bay. The key to selecting specific angles. No tool excels
angled cuts is that minute errors the right tool is understanding in all three categories, but once
can multiply within an assembly. the three different, but equally- you understand which type
A fence, gauge, or blade that's off important challenges faced performs a job best, you know
by even a fraction of a degree can by angle-setting instruments. which one to reach for (or buy).
Bevel Gauge
A bevel gauge, or T-bevel, offers great flexibility in a strictly mechanical
tool. The sliding blade can be adjusted to fit into tight corners and
can be solidly locked for machine setup or joint layout. After making
a cut, the bevel gauge can then be used to check its accuracy.
While this simple tool excels at transferring angles, it falls short
when you have to set it to a specific angle, adjust an angle by a few
tenths of a degree, or determine the numeric value of an angle that
it's holding. For that, you need to read the angle of the gauge using
a triangle, protractor, or square. To avoid that two-step procedure,
many woodworkers these days are turning to digital gauges.
Measuring Angles - N/A Transferring & Laying Out Setting Machinery
72 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2013 Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply unless otherwise noted.
Analog Protractor
This tool is designed to make your life a little easier when setting up
your mitersaw to cut angles for bisected miters. The dial's large arrow
indicates the primary angle (the tool's leg splay). The smaller arrow
notes the angle at which to set your saw, using the machine's scale. For
example, to join two frame pieces at 135°, the protractor tells you to
set your saw's pointer to 221h which will cut the complementary 67 ~
0 0
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Even better, you can to do all that without a second set of hands.
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