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*Syllabus

THE-4260 – Costume History


SPRING 2013
Monday/Wednesday 2:30-3:45
Building 86/134

Professor: Glenn Avery Breed


Office Hours: By Appointment
Office: 82/290
Office Phone #: 857-6286
Costume Shop #: 857-6340
E-mail: gbreed@uwf.edu

Course Description:

Historical periods of costume and fashion from ancient times to the present, their
relation to theatre history, and potential use as sources for theatrical costume
design.

Course Objectives:
a) To acquire a basic knowledge of men and women's clothing from
antiquity to the present day, including line, shape, silhouette, cut, color,
decoration and accessories.
b) To be able to date paintings, sculpture or other primary sources by
identifying costume details.
c) To acquire a working knowledge of what primary and secondary sources
are available in the field of art and costume.
d) To learn to relate various modes of dress to the social, economic,
religious, psychological, and aesthetic factors in society which produced
them.
e) To understand the importance of costume and how it relates to all aspects
of the theatre, particularly how it affects the movement and behavior of an
actor on the stage.

Course Requirements:
a) Portfolio of Re-drawings
• All re-drawings must be done from primary sources.
• Re-drawings are required for each period--1 male and 1 female.
• These are due at the beginning of class on the Monday of the week
Following when the periods were covered.
• Pages should not be permanently bound
• ALL ITEMS LABELED, Period, Each Item, Source, ETC….
b) Exams.
There are 4 exams during the semester, the last one at final time.
c) Book Reports.
There are 2 book reports on costume history and the evolution of
fashion.

Save all class work until the end of the semester when grading is
completed.

Attendance Policy: There is no book--so the lectures, and visual sources


used in class are the bulk of the materials presented, therefore, I recommend
that regular attendance be high on your priority list. More than 3 absences
will result in a lowering of your grade by one letter grade. Remember that I
hate for students to be late, three late will equal one Absence. THE
ULTIMATE NON-PARTICIPATION IS NON-ATTENDANCE!!!

Grading:
Redrawings.......................................3 each = 144
(24 periods, 48 Figures Total EGYPT-1960)
4 Tests................................................75 each = 300
2 Book Reports.................................10 each =20
12 QUIZZES…………………………..3 each =36
500 total points

500 to 465 = A 387 to 363 = C


464 to 450 = A- 362 to 350 = C-
449 to 438 = B+ 349 to 338 = D+
437 to 413 = B 337 to 313 = D
412 to 400 = B- 312 to 300 = D-
399 to 388 = C+ 299 to 0 = F

REQUIRED TEXT
Survey of Historic Costume (w/Study Guide) 5th Edition Copyright 2010
ISBN:9781609012304

Disability Statement:
Students with disabilities who believe they may need accommodations in this class are
encouraged to contact the Disability Access Center 474-2387 as soon as possible to ensure that
accommodations are implemented in a timely fashion.

COURSE SCHEDULE ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE


COSTUME HISTORY SPRING 2013
DATE SUBJECT TEXT/DUE
M- 1/7 Class Intro/Period Breakdown/Book List/
W- 1/9 Period Terms and Styles
M- 1/14 Egypt Chapter 1-2
W- 1/16 Greek/Roman Chapter 3-4
M- 1/21 NO CLASS
W- 1/23 Romanesque/Byzantine Chapter 5
M- 1/28 Gothic
W-1/30 Renaissance Chapter 7
M- 2/4 EXAM#1 (Egypt-Gothic)
W- 2/6 Elizabethan Chapter 8
M- 2/11 Cavalier Chapter 9 BOOK REPORT #1
W- 2/13 Restoration Chapter 10
M- 2/18 Georgian
W- 2/20 EXAM#2(Renaissance-Georgian)
M- 2/25 Empire Chapter 11
W- 2/27 Romantic Chapter 12
M- 3/4 Crinoline Chapter 13
W-3/6 First and Second Bustle Chapter 14
3/11-3/15 SPRING BREAK
M- 3/18 Third Bustle/Fine De Siecle
W- 3/20 EXAM#3(Empire-Fine De Siecle)
M- 3/25 Edwardian Chapter 15
W- 3/27 Neo Empire/World War 1
M- 4/1 1920’s Chapter 16
W- 4/3 1930’s
M- 4/8 1940’s Chapter 17/BOOK REPORT #2
W- 4/10 1950’s
M- 4/15 1960’s Chapter 18
W- 4/17 1970’s
M- 4/22 1980’s Chapter 19
W- 4/24 1990’s-2009
Tuesday 4/29/13 12:00-4:30 FINAL EXAM- EXAM#4(Edwardian-Present)
COSTUME HISTORY

Period Breakdown
Egypt 4000 BC-30 BC
Greece 3000 BC-100 BC
Rome 735 BC-323 AD
Byzantine 400-1100
Romanesque 900-1200
Gothic 1200-1450
Renaissance 1450-1550
Elizabethan 1550-1625
Cavalier 1625-1660
Restoration 1660-1700
Georgian 1700-1795
Empire 1795-1815
Romantic 1815-1840
Crinoline 1840-1865
Bustle 1865-1890
Fin de Siecle 1890-1900
Edwardian 1900-1908
Neo-Empire 1908-1914
World War I 1914-1919
20's 1919-1929
30’s 1929-1939
40's 1939-1947
50's 1947-1959
60's 1959-1971
70's 1971-1979
80's 1980-1989
90's 1990-1999
2000 2000-2009
2010- New Millennium

HISTORY OF DRESS
General/Chronological
Batterberry, Michael /Arianne. Mirror Mirror or Fashion, the Mirror of
History (same book, 2 titles)
(S) Barton, Lucy. Historic Costume for the Stage
Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion
Black and Garland. A History of Fashion
Contini, Mila. Fashion
Davenport and Crown. The Book of Costume
Eyewitnesws Books, Costume
Ewing, Elizabeth. Dress and Undress
Eubank, K. and Tortora, P. A Survey of Historic Costume
Kohler, Karl. A History of Costume Every Day Fashions of the Forties
Laver, James. A Concise History of Costume and Fashion
Costume of the Western World
Mayers, Florence, ABC, Costumes and Textiles from the LA County
Museum of Art
Payne, Blanche. History of Costume
O'Hara. The Encyclopedia of Fashion
(S) Peacock, John, A Chronicle of Western Costume

Specific Periods or Specific Clothing Types

Blum, Stella. Every Day Fashions of the Twenties (as pictured in


Sears catalogs)

(S) Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in Detail, 1730-1930


(S) Braun and Schneider,
Constantino, Maria, Men’s Fashsion in the Twentieth Century
(S) Cunnington, Cecil Willet and Phillis (various combinations)
A Dictionary of English Costume
Hand books of English: Medieval Costume
16th , 17th, 18th,19th , 20th Centuries
English Costume for Sport and Recreation
Costume of Household Servants
Costume for Births, Deaths and Marraiges
The History of Underclothes
Occupational Costume in England

Evans, Joan. Dress in Medieval France


Ginsburg, Madeleine, Paris Fashions, The Art Deco Style of the 1920’s
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Fashions of the Thirties
Elegancy After Dark (Evening Wear in Louisiana 1896-1996), no
author
Every Day Fashions of the Thirties Hall,Carolyn, The Thirties in Vogue
Holland, Vyvyan. Hand-Coloured Fashion Plates 1770-1899
Hope, Thomas. Costume of the Greeks and Romans/Costume of the
Ancients (same book, 2 titles)
**not primary to Greece, published in 1812.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costumes for Stage And Screen (patterns for
women’s dress1500-1800)
Period Costumes for Stage And Screen (medieval
1500)
Period Costumes for Stage And Screen (1800 –
1809)
Period Costume for Stage and Screen (Patterns for
Outer Garments: Cloaks, Capes, Stoles, and Wadded Mantles)

Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Dominos,


Dolmans, Coats, Pelisses,Spencers, Calashes, Hoods &Bonnets

Kelly, Frances. Shakespearean Costume for the Stage and Screen


Kunciov, Robert ed. Mr. Godey’s Ladies: Being a Mosaic of Fashions
and Fancies(1830’s-1870’s)
Kyoto Costume Insitiute, Evolution of Fahsion 1835-1895
Laver, James. Fashion of the Renaissance
Lehnert, Gertrad. A History of Fashion in the 20th Century
Laubner, Ellie. Collectable Fashions of the Turbulent 1930's
Fashions of the Roaring 20's with Values
McClellan, Elizabeth. History of American Costume 1607-1870
Historic Dress in America 1607-1800
Olian, JoAnne. Every Day Fashions 1909-1920 (as pictured in Sears
catalogs)
Every Day Fashions of the Twenties
Every Day Fashions of the Thirties
Every Day Fashions of the Forties
Robinson, Julian, The Fine Art of Fashion
Shep, R.L. Federalist and Regency Costume
The Great War: Styles and Patterns of the 1910s

Thomas, Lew ed. The Restless Decade (photographs of the thirties)


Every Day Fashions of the Forties
Trasko, Mary, Daring Do’s
® Van den Buekel, A Pictorial History of Costume
Warwick, Edward. Early American Costume
Women’s Fashions at the Time of the Civil War, vol. 1-3, no author
York, K.A. Civil War Ladies Sketchbook vol. 2 – 3

Undergarments
Benson and Esten, Unmentionables
Bressler, Newman, Proctor, A Century of Lingerie
Carter, Allison, Underwear: The Fashion History
Elizabeth Ewing, The History of Underclothes
Fontanel, Beatrice, Support and Seduction: A History of Corsets and Bras
Lord, William, Freaks of Fashion
Probert, Christine, Lingerie in Vogue
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines
Accessories
Bella Cosa, Footwear
Men’s Hats
Women’s Hats
Campione, Adele. Il Cappello Da Uomo (Men's Hats)
Fink and Ditzler, Buttons
O’Keefe, Linda, Shoes
Heavenly Shoes

PSYCHOLOGY OF DRESS
Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress Clothes and Society 1500-1914
Boehn, Max von. Modes and Manners
Cable, Mary Ann. American Manners and Morals
Cunnington, C. W. Why Women Wear Clothes
Hollander, Anne, Seeing Through Clothes
Horn, Marilyn. The Second Skin
Kuntze, David. Fashion and Fetishism
Laver, James. Clothes
Roach, Mary. The Visible Self
Rudofsky, Bernard. The Unfashionable Human Body

HISTORY OF CONSTRUCTION
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion vol. 1,2 & 3
(S) Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in Detail, 1730-1930
Edson, Doris (w/ Lucy Barton). Period Patterns
Davis, R. I. Men’s Garments 1830-1900
Men’s Seventeenth & Eighteenth Century Costume: Cut
and Fashion
Devere, Louis, The Handbook of Practical Cutting
Hill and Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930
Hillhouse and Mansfield, Dress Design
Holkeboer, Kathrine Strand. Costume Construction
Hunniset, Jean, Period Costume for Stage and Screen (5 Books)
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines
The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900
The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930

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