NIACINAMIDE PC

Treasures to discover

DSM Nutritional Products

NIACINAMIDE PC
Niacinamide PC – treasures to discover
Niacinamide – from science to cosmetic products
Niacinamide belongs to the family of the B vitamins. It is
100
90
100 30

25
Placebo 5% Niacinamide
Formulating with Niacinamide PC
The multiple beneficial effects on the skin make Niacin-
amide PC the ideal ingredient for daily skincare formula-

Spot area reduction

% from baseline
essential in the diet and is contained in many foodstuffs.
% increase versus baseline

80 20 tions (dry and sensitive skin), creams which help to reduce

Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide. 70 the appearance of wrinkles (e.g. night creams), and
15
60 10 products which help to improve the appearance of acne
50
45 44
5
and skin tone.
40
0
30 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Niacinamide PC is one of the most stable vitamins: It is
20 Weeks of use stable to light, heat, reducing and oxidizing substances.
10
0 Figure 3: Image analysis of facial age spots after 8 weeks of dai- Recommended use level: 0.5 – 5%
Keratin Involucrin Filaggrin
ly application with either a 5% niacinamide cream or the placebo.
Figure 1: Structure of niacinamide Figure 2: The in vitro study with human keratinocytes showed Some formulation guidelines
significant increase of barrier layer proteins by niacinamide. Niacinamide PC – to reduce the appearance of acne • Niacinamide PC is water soluble and very easy to
Niacinamide was recognized in the early 20th century as Typical antimicrobial agents used in the treatment of acne formulate
the vitamin that prevents pellegra, an epidemic disease Niacinamide PC will help to moisturize skin and may also may provoke skin irritation or induce bacterial resistance. • Easy dissolution up to 5%
with severe cutaneous lesions. Originally, niacinamide was sooth sensitive skin. A study performed by Shalita and colleagues5, showed that • Tolerates a broad range of pH (3-7.5)
named vitamin PP for pellegra-preventive. 4% niacinamide is of comparable efficacy as 1% clind-
After Feldmann and Maibach1 highlighted the good skin Niacinamide PC – to improve the appearance of aging skin amycin in the treatment of acne (Figure 4). The appearance Different reference formulations with Niacinamide PC are
penetration of niacinamide, scientists have been highly in- Skin aging is characterized by major skin changes like re- of acne was reduced by 52% with niacinamide and by 38% available on request.
terested in exploring the topical effects of niacinamide. duced skin elasticity, poorer structure and appearance of with clindamycin.
wrinkles. An important factor is the gradual loss of colla-
Niacinamide PC – the special grade gen and elastin fibers synthesised in fibroblasts. A recom- 0.00 References
To match today’s industry needs, DSM offers Niacinamide mended strategy in preventing skin aging is to reduce 1 Feldmann, RJ & Maibach, HI Absorption of some organic

Reduction of acne lesions (%)

PC, a new grade of niacinamide, with minimal traces of
nicotinic acid.
Niacinamide PC – to improve skin moisturization
Skin softness, suppleness and skin hydration are related
to the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is known that
several lipids such as fatty acids and ceramides are criti-
cal for the structural and functional integrity of the stratum
corneum. The skin barrier function can be assessed by
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements.
A study conducted by Tanno et al.2 showed that 2% niacin-
amide reduced the TEWL by 24% in 4 weeks. At the same
time free fatty acids and ceramides in stratum corneum
were boosted by 67% and 34%, respectively.
Niacinamide increases the keratin synthesis and stimu-
lates two other epidermal proteins as well: filaggrin and in-
volucrin3 (Figure 2). Filaggrins play a central role in the ag-
gregation of keratinocytes. Involucrin is a component of
the cornified envelope of the corneocytes.
-10.00
collagen breakdown, while increasing fibroblasts. Studies compounds trough the skin in man. J. Invest. Dermatol.
-20.00 54:399-404 (1970)
with human fibroblasts showed 3 that niacinamide stimu-
lates new fibroblasts by 20% and collagen secretion by -30.00 2 Tanno, O et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of
54%. ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve
-40.00
the epidermal permeability barrier. Br. J. Dermatol. 143:
Niacinamide PC – to impart a more even-looking skin tone -50.00 524-531 (2000)
1% Clindamycin 4% Niacinamide
Extended exposure to sun light is a main reason for hyper- -60.00
3 Bissett, DL et al. Topical niacinamide provides skin aging ap-
pigmentation. Melanocytes in deeper skin layers produce pearance benefits while enhancing barrier function. J. Clin.
-70.00
melanosomes that contain the pigment melanin. These are Dermatol. 32 Suppl. 9-18 (2003)
4 Weeks 8 Weeks
then released to keratinocytes that move upwards to the 4 Hakozaki, T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cuta-
upper epidermis. Figure 4: The study showed reduction of acne lesions (papules neous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer.
Niacinamide does not inhibit the production of melanin but and pustules) after 76 acne patients had applied either a gel with Br. J. Dermatol. 147:20-31 (2002)
Hakozaki et al .4 showed niacinamide inhibits the transfer 4% niacinamide or with 1% antibiotic clindamycin twice daily for 5 Shalita, AR et al. Topical nicotinamide compared with clin-
of the melanosomes to the surrounding keratinocytes up 8 weeks. damycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Int.
to 68%. The scientists used a keratinocyte/ melanocyte J. Dermatol. 34:434-7 (1995)
co-culture model.
A clinical trial with volunteers confirmed the skin lighten-
ing activity4. They had applied a skin cream with 5% niacin-
amide for 8 weeks. Age spots around the eye and cheek
were significantly reduced (Figure 3). NIACINAMIDE PC
North America
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Brazil
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CH-4002 Basel
Switzerland
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Internet http://www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

51828 Oktober 2006

The information given in this publication is based on our current knowledge and
experience, and may be used at your discretion and risk. It does not relieve you
from carrying out your own precautions and tests. For some countries there is
mention of uses beyond the scope of the approved or accepted labelling for the
subject product. We do not assume any liability in connection with your product
or its use. You must comply with all applicable laws and regulations, and
observe all third party rights. NIACINAMIDE PC