Coat Ironwork

Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: ironwork http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.
es/search/label/ironwork
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MADE BY H A N D - ENTENDIDO
MÁS INFORMACIÓN
THE GREAT
SARTORIAL DEBATE
W E D N E S D A Y, J A N U A R Y 1 5 , 2 0 1 4
Shaping the underarm
I was discussing techniques with a tailor by email and was having trouble
describing something so I thought "blog post".
We typically find two types of tailored sleeve in men's suiting- English tailors
often cut what is known as a 50-50 sleeve, whose under sleeve is roughly the
same width as the top sleeve. More common today is a sleeve with what is
known as a "false forearm" because the forearm seam is offset from the from of
the sleeve by around an inch in order to conceal it. The offsetting of this seam
can cause a kink near the elbow if the sleeve is not shaped properly. The under
sleeve is cut roughly 1/4" longer than the top sleeve along the forearm seam;
some tailors work this fullness in and shrink it out when pressing the forearm
seam. I have a different take on this.
Notice the concave shape of the forearm seam when the sleeve is flat.
Now when I turn the seam back to replicate the offset of the seam in the
finished sleeve, notice that the front of the sleeve is straight and the seam is ABOUT ME
now convex, rather than concave- this is what can cause the break in the sleeve.
J EF FE RY DI D U CH
Contact me-
jeffery_d at ymail
dot com
VI E W M Y C OM P LE T E
P RO FI L E
S U B S C R IB E TO M A D E B Y H A N D
1 of 29 18/07/2017, 16:25
Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: ironwork http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.es/search/label/ironwork
MÁS INFORMACIÓN ENTENDIDO
FOLLOW BY EMAIL
Notice how the edge of the sleeve ripples because of the stretching. The top
sleeve seam is now 1/4" longer than it was, and even with the under sleeve
seam.
BLOG ARCHIVE
▼ 2016 (8)
▼ November (1)
NOTES ON MY
COSTUME
► October (1)
And now when I fold back the front of the sleeve, the fold is now nicely curved
and the seam is now the proper, concave shape. ► August (1)
► May (1)
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L AB E LS : I R ON WO R K, S H A PI N G, S L EE V E
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LABELS
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Anderson and Sheppard (1)
MÁS INFORMACIÓN ENTENDIDO Andrew Rogers (1)
apprenticeship (1)
Ariston (2)
armholes (2)
Asola Lucida (4)
backs (1)
Balenciaga (1)
barchetta (1)
T H U R S D A Y, F E B R U A R Y 2 4 , 2 0 1 1
Bespoke (1)
IRONWORK, or Why I Hate Steamers Boglioli (1)
Books (1)
I've ranted a few times about the many reasons I dislike the use of steamers on
Boutonniere Milanaise (2)
tailored clothing, but one of the reasons which I failed to fully explain was
breast pockets (2)
ironwork. Tailors use heat and steam to transform a flat piece of cloth into a
Brioni (3)
3-dimensional shape, only some of which occurs due to seams and darts, the
Butler Luxury (1)
rest is worked up with the iron (thus, ironwork).
buttonhole thread (2)
Here's a look at what goes into the jacket before a single stitch is sewn; the Buttonhole twist (1)
trousers get worked up as well, which I alluded to in a previous post buttonholes (9)
somewhere. The pages are nicked from an old textbook entitled (somewhat Cabrera (1)
pompously) Il Sarto Architetto (The Tailor as Architect) and those who can't canvas (4)
read Italian will still be able to get an idea of what's going on here. Namely, canvas fronts (1)
that a lot of shaping is being done which can be ruined with the aid of a jiffy
Caraceni (3)
steamer. You wouldn't notice anything jumping out at you, but the garment
Castiglione (1)
just wouldn't have the same shape or fit as before; very fitted or shapely
Chanel (2)
(men's) garments are impossible to achieve without a good deal of this
chest canvas (1)
ironwork- something looser or more boxy will have less of it.
Chester Barrie (2)
Cross-hatch lines indicate stretching and curved lines indicate shrinking. Chris Depos (1)
Cifonelli (1)
Claire Schaeffer (1)
Claire Shaeffer (2)
Classic Tailoring Techniques
(2)
Cloth Merchants (1)
collars (2)
Craftsmanship (1)
Cuneo Martello (1)
cutting (1)
D'Avenza (2)
Dart (1)
darts (1)
David Coffin (2)
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dry cleaning (1)

Dugdale Brothers (1)
Durkopp-Adler (1)
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escorial (1)
felling (2)
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fishtail (1)
fitting (2)
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hand sewn shoulders (1)
hand sewn sleeves (1)
Hangers (2)
Hardy (1)
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IACDE (5)
Indochino (4)
ironwork (4)
jeans (1)
Kemp and Hewitt (2)
Kiton (1)
lapels (2)
lining finishing (1)
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measuring (1)
Men of the Cloth (3)
Men's Factory-Made
Clothing (1)
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milanese (1)
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overcoat (1)
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pad stitching (5)
padstitching (2)
pagoda shoulders (6)
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pickstitching (1)
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pressing (1)
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seat (1)
sewing buttons (1)
sewing by hand (1)
Sewing Machines (1)
shaping (2)
sharpening (1)
shears (6)
shielding (1)
shoulder pads (1)
shoulders (2)
Sizing (1)
sleeve (1)
sleeves (2)
Smalto (4)
soft tailoring (4)
sprezzatura (1)
Steamers (1)
Steed (2)
stripes (1)
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taping (1)
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thimbles (1)
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trousers (4)
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vents (2)
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Zegna Couture (3)
R E L AT E D S T U F F
International Association of
Clothing Designers and
Executives
Pattern Design Analyst
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P OS T E D BY JE FF ERY D I D UC H AT 12 :5 6 P M 23 COMMENTS
L IN K S TO TH I S P O S T
L AB E LS : I R ON WO R K, S TE AM ER S
T U E S D AY, S E P T E M B E R 8 , 2 0 0 9
The trouser- fitting & completion
If you're just joining us, back up one post first. We were discussing the
ironwork involved in making trousers.
David asked what the difference would be between a trousers done with this
ironwork and one done without. So the first fitting I sewed the seams straight
with no manipulation, no fullness, no stretching, no shrinking, and the result
was this. Not a very nice line. The hem is turned up at the bottom so it puddles
around my ankles, but look more at how it hangs around my knees. Not clean
13 of 29 18/07/2017, 16:25
Then I ripped them down to show the ironwork in the previous post, and put
them back together again. This is the result, which I much prefer.
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While David is right, some of the shaping will be lost with wear, but I can put it
back with a careful pressing. Those who steam their pants are ruining all this
shaping and will have pants that puddle around their legs; by pressing them
with a good iron and observing the shape illustrated in the T&C thread you can
have a marked improvement in the fit of the leg.
UPDATE
To answer a few questions, the first thing that will help getting a better press
on your trousers is a wider ironing board; normal household ironing boards
are too narrow to fit the entire leg so you not only have a hard time visualizing
the correct shape, but you also tend to do the front only and then shift the pant
and then do the back (or vice versa) when you should really be doing the entire
leg at once. The Rowenta board that I have at home (in the pictures) is great
for this and has a much better pad than most domestic boards. I know that
some department stores have followed their lead and started producing wider
boards as well.
Next, some puddling around the legs can be from bad fit and can't be rectified
by pressing; hip-forward posture or flat seats will cause cloth to puddle around
the knees in a horse-shoe shape and no amount of pressing will fix that. But
assuming you have a trouser that fits adequately, it also helps if the
16 of 29 18/07/2017, 16:25
when busting the seams (industry jargon for pressing the seams open). If this
was not done (for expedience during production) you won't be able to get the
full shape out of the trouser, but you will be able to help it a little. When
pressing your trousers, always keep this shape in mind and your results will be
much better.
Like any part of any garment, it helps to visualize the shape of the body which
is being covered. The trouser is not really two straight creases- the leg makes a
bit of an "s" shape so we will recreate this shape in the pant. Whenever we
want to create a curve in a garment without a seam, we have to stretch the
outer arc and shrink the inner one, so if you are dealing with misfigures, keep
the person's shape in mind when shaping the garment. Refer to the diagram
below- stretch over the front of the thigh, stretch the seam into a forward
curve, and shrink the excess under the back of the thigh. Do the opposite on
the lower half, working the curve into the shape of the calf. Notice that the
creases are not straight and that the hem of the trouser will dip lower in the
back than the front.
If and when I can get my hand on a video camera I will post video of the
process with and without a vacuum table (which is a godsend).
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T H U R S D A Y, J A N U A R Y 2 9 , 2 0 0 9
The one-piece back
We’ve been talking a lot about shaping and about the back, and recently
voxsartoria posted some photos of some garments he’s having made with a one
piece back; there have been a few questions about it so let’s look at the
mechanics of the back of the jacket. Sorry about the crappy Iphone photos.
EDIT- dumb me is assuming everyone has seen vox's suits since he's posted
them on every imaginable forum except the russian styleforum :) So you can
see these suits here http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=99996
Traditional patternmaking rules dictate that a seam or a dart must pass over,
or point to, the point of greatest fullness. On a lady’s front, this is the bust
point. On the back, this is the shoulder blade. Tailors, however, do not like to
follow rules; instead, we make up new ones.
The first new rule is that some of the shaping of the back will occur at center
back, not at the level of the blades. Thus, the center back seam is not straight
but shaped (usually). The red line shows that my first line in the draft is
straight, but then the center back seam is shaped from the hem up to the blade
area.
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This gives some room for the blades and some shape to the waist.
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But placed on a dummy, we can see that it is not quite sufficient to fit cleanly.
Of course, I could just call this drape and have done with it. But some people
prefer a cleaner looking garment so a little additional work is required.
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If we were to follow the rules of regular patternmaking, we would need to place

a dart in the armhole to give length to the blade, and another dart at the waist
to give the waist some shape. You will perhaps recognize the “princess” seam
which was typical in tight-fitting dress coats taking form.
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If I place this fitted panel on the table you can see the large amount of shape
given to the blades, and the ripple of length at the side seam which is a result of
the dart.
We do not want this shoulder dart and would like to shift the waist dart off to
23 of 29 18/07/2017, 16:25
Flat. Not so good. Yet.
So I will start by stretching the blades, shrinking the armhole and center back,
which will give this result.
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Then I stretch the side seam and shrink center back, which gives a ripple of
length at the side. The result looks like the one pictured above, but minus all
the seams.
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Placed on the tailor’s dummy, I have a back which is clean and shaped and well
fitted. Two potential drawbacks are that injudicious use of steam can wreck
what I have done, and that there is no inlay at center back to allow for future
alterations, should they become necessary.
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This is a garment made by Edwin DeBoise of Steed Bespoke Tailors for one of
his Boston clients who requested a one-piece back- note the amount of shape
he was able to achieve (note also the drape near the armholes- this was
intentional) and the spectacular sleeves. Edwin travels to various spots in the
US and perhaps elsewhere- check his website or his blog for itinerary. The
world needs more clothing like this.
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Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate: ironwork http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.

Shaping the underarm

P OS T E D BY JE FF ERY D I D UC H AT 6: 51 A M 6 COMMENTS LI N K S TO T H I S P O ST ► 2011 (32)

dry cleaning (1)

Zegna Couture (3)

The trouser- fitting & completion

The one-piece back

If we were to follow the rules of regular patternmaking, we would need to place

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