DECEMBER

Of all the months of the year there is not a month one-half so welcome to
the young, or so full of happy associations, as the last month of the year...
~"All the Year Round: December," All the Year Round: A Weekly Journal
Conducted by Charles Dickens, 1887 December 10th

Introduction
December is the month when shorter daylight hours and cold weather really begin to restrict
the gardener's outdoor activities. Winter gives you a great opportunity to catch up on
reading your favorite gardening magazines and books. Here are a few tips and topics to
occupy the gardener's time this month.

General
 Make plans for next year's garden.
 Check gutters and drains for fallen leaves.
 Improve difficult soil by adding organic matter.
 Check that gutters and drains are not blocked by fallen leaves
 Don't forget to order those seed catalogues early in December so you can browse
through them.

Improving Poor Soil

Garden soil that needs improving should be tackled now. Garden soil is a complicated
mixture of rock particles and organic material, together with water, air and nutrients. The
major soil types are chalky, peaty, sandy, clay or loam. In addition soil can either be acid or
alkaline. All of these properties will affect the type of plants that will survive or thrive in your
garden. The ideal soil is a rich, free draining, dark loam but whatever your soil type it can be
improved as follows:

Improving limey (alkaline) soils

If your soil is very limey (alkaline), iron and other trace elements can become 'locked' in the
soil. Digging in a peat substitute or lime free compost and applying flowers of sulphur or Iron
Sulphare can help. If you want to grow acid loving plants you can make a raised bed and fill
it with lime free compost or grow acid loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas in tubs
and containers.

Improving peaty (acidic) soils

Acid soil can be made more alkaline by adding a dressing of hydrated lime, ground chalk or
limestone. For sandy soils, use 225 g per sq m or double this amount for heavier soils.
Improving clay soils

Clay soil is heavy and tough to dig over at any time of year but especially in summer when it
can dry rock hard and in wet weather it can become sticky and waterlogged. Also because it
holds water, it tends to be cold and slow to warm up in early spring. However, it can be very
nutrient rich. It is best to dig clay soils over in the winter, so sharp frosts can break down the
clods. You also need to dig in as much organic matter as possible - aim for two bucketsful
per sq m and leave at least a month before adding lime.

Improving sandy soils

Sand does not retain water, and vital nutrients get quickly washed through to the subsoil. It
is much improved by the addition of organic matter. Besides providing nutrients to the
plants, it helps retain moisture. Sandy soil is often acid, in which case it will benefit from the
addition of lime, as well as organic matter.

Improving shallow chalky soils

Chalk-based soils are generally light and shallow, don't hold water well and are extremely
alkaline. You can increase the acidity by regular applications of flowers of sulphur or Iron
Sulphate. Alternatively, you can simply grow some of the many lime-loving plants. Regular
applications of organic matter, will also allow a wider range of plants to be grown.
Taking Care of Garden Tools
December is the best time to clean your garden tools and keep them in good order, while
they are less frequently used. Secateurs, saws and pruning knives can be repaired, oiled
and sharpened. Spades and hoes will need sharpening and cleaning. The tines of forks and
rakes may need straightening.

What to do in the flower garden in December

General Tasks
 Continue digging and tidying up of herbaceous beds.
 Start bringing forced bulbs indoors.
 Take root cuttings.
 Cut back late-flowering, chrysanthemums and take cuttings.
 Take cuttings from perpetual flowering carnations.
 Check bulbs, corms and tubers in storage..

December is the ideal time of year to create new beds, dig over established beds if the
weather is reasonable. Tidying of existing herbaceous beds can continue, and all leafy and
soft organic material should be added to the compost heap, with any woody or diseased
material placed on the bonfire or removed from the garden.

“It is very easy. We the human species can naturally relate to plants, we live among
them. So there is nothing major to teach or learn. You just show lots of care and you will
get the return,”

Now is a good time to taking root cuttings from herbaceous perennials while the plants are
dormant. This will provide plenty of new plants for re-stocking borders in late spring or early
summer. Suitable herbaceous plants for root cuttings include:

 Alkanet (Anchusa azurea)

 Blanket flower (Gaillardia)
 Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea)
 Japanese anemones
 Perennial mullein (Verbascum phoeniceum)
  Phlox (Phlox paniculata)

Alkanet (Anchusa azurea) Blanket flower (Gaillardia) Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea)

Japanese anemones Perennial mullein Phlox (Phlox paniculata)

(Verbascum phoeniceum)

Once wallflower plants have settled in and are showing signs of growing away, the tops
should be pinched out to encourage a bushy appearance and also to restrict the height.
Late flowering chrysanthemums should be cut back after they finish their display.

Take the time to check any bulbs, corms and tubers in storage for any signs of rot or
disease. These include dahlia, gladioli, tuberous-rooted begonias. Any rot or diseased areas
should be cut back to healthy flesh and the cut treated with a fungicide. Badly rotted bulbs
should be discarded.

Over wintering geraniums and fuchsias will need an occasional light watering, to keep them
from drying up.
One herbaceous plant that will shortly be coming into flower is the Christmas rose
(Helleborus niger). The flowers are susceptibility to weather damage, so protect the buds
and flowers from this by putting a cloche over the clumps or just a sheet of glass resting on
bricks or large stones. Either will give them enough shelter.
Keep houseplants healthy by providing a temperate, draft free, environment. Put flowering
plants in a light, airy spot, but remove them afterwards to a cool greenhouse or a cool 6°C
airy and light room in the house. Avoid over watering, which is the most common cause of
death to houseplants. However, azalea and cyclamen will need a moister atmosphere,
which can be provided by frequently misting the plants with water at room temperature, or
standing the pots in a pebble filled bowl which contains water up to the base of the pot. As
the water evaporates, it creates a moist microclimate for the plant.

Taking care of the Lawn in December

General Tasks
 Mow lawns if necessary.
 Clean and service lawn mower and put away ready for next season.

You may still need to mow the lawn in December if the weather has been mild and not too
wet. A very light mowing will leave the garden look tidier and stop grass getting too long.
New Lawns, sown from seed in the autumn, can also be lightly mown too on a sunny, dry
day.

Earthworms can also be a problem, although they do not damage the grass, the casts they
leave on the surface of the lawn are a nuisance and can cause weeds and moss to take
hold. Therefore it is best to sweep them off the lawn as soon as they appear.
Leather jackets (the larval stage of crane flies, or daddy-long-legs) can be a real problem on
lawns, and December is a good time to deal with them.

These grubs feed on grass roots and basal stems just beneath the surface of the soil. The
main indications that these pests are at work are brown patches of dying turf as soon as the
weather turns dry. You may also see increased bird activity on the lawn, as they search for
them. If your lawn is badly infested, then you may find that large tufts of grass will come
away in your hand at the slightest pull. Treat the lawn with an approved pesticide, according
to the manufacturer's instructions.

If you are planning to put down a new lawn from seed in the spring, start deep digging
whenever the soil is in a workable condition so that it has time to settle down before sowing.
The more you can walk on it, leveling and raking, between now and sowing, the better.

During the winter, check the lawn after heavy rain to see if there are any low spots where
the rain forms puddles. If there are any wait until they dry out, and then spike the areas to
correct possible compaction. If this fails to cure the problem, it probably means that the
ground needs rising, which should be done in the spring.

 Keep brushing off fallen leaves regularly and add them to the compost heap.

Trees and Shrubs

General Tasks
 Continue pruning roses and spray against black spot.
 Continue planting roses in mild weather.
 Check newly planted roses after frosts and re-firm if necessary.
 Check defenses against frost.
  Continue planting deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges.
 Protect plants from damage by animals.
 Water container plants and check for wind rock.
 Start pruning clematis (C. 'Jackmanii').
 Take root cuttings.

Continue last month's pruning of roses whenever the weather is pleasant enough to work
outdoors. Remove long straggly branches that can get blown about and damaged in a
strong wind. In mild winters, you may even find the odd flower bud on recurrent roses, which
are a treat to pick and take indoors.

Roses that suffered from black spot in the past can be sprayed with a suitable fungicide tlike
Bavistin his month. Prevention is often the best cure and keeping the ground beneath roses
free of all dead leaves or other debris is as important as spraying, as fungal spores tend to
collect and over winter there.

Planting of new roses can continue through December, as long as the soil is workable.
Check any roses planted last month, to see that they haven't been lifted by frost. Firm them
back into the soil, if necessary.

Container-grown and root-wrapped or bare-rooted hedging plants, trees and shrubs can all
be planted now, provided that the weather is mild and the soil is in good shape. All tree
stakes should be checked and replaced if necessary. Most trees will be self-supporting after
three or four years, and there is seldom any point in having a stake beyond that time. Ties
should also be examined and slackened off if at all tight.

Pot, container and tub planted ornamental trees and shrubs will still need watering, if the
weather has been warm and sunny. If it has been wet and windy then also check for wind
rock. The latter occurs when a plant takes the full force of the wind, and a hollow forms in
the soil or compost round the base of the stem or stems. Newly planted trees and shrubs
are particularly vulnerable, as their roots have not yet had time to become established.

Root cuttings can be taken from shrubs this month; the method is the same as for root
cuttings of herbaceous plants. See our section on Propagation from Cuttings
Vegetable Gardening
General Tasks
 Continue digging over ground for spring sowing or planting.
 Continue protecting cauliflower curds from frost.
 Earth up or stake brassicas.
 Force rhubarb, if required.
 Continue blanching endive and forcing chicory and seakale.
 Plan the vegetable garden ready for next season.

Dig over the vegetable patch, incorporating plenty of well-rotted garden compost or manure
for crops that need rich soil.

Runner beans are particularly fond of plenty of organic matter, and so are peas, leeks and
marrows. Other crops-carrots and potatoes, for example-resent rich growing conditions, so
it is important to have a good idea of what is being planted where next spring, before you
begin working.

Cauliflower curds will need protecting from frost by bending over an outside leaf or using
horticultural fleece.

If the weather has been stormy, brassicas may need earthing up or staking against strong
winds.

Forcing Rhubarb, Chicory and Seakale

Rhubarb crowns that were exposed to frost last month can be brought into the relative
warmth of the greenhouse now. To get pale, succulent, less acid stalks, pack the crowns-
right-way up close together in large boxes, filling the boxes with moist soil or peat. The tops
of the crowns should just be showing at the surface. Total darkness is necessary, so fix a
screen of black plastic sheeting or sacking to go around and over the boxes. If the boxes
are under greenhouse staging, simply hang black plastic sheeting down from the staging. A
temperature of 10°C (50°F) is necessary to start with, and once the shoots have started
growing, raise the temperature to at least 16°C (60°F).

Rhubarb can also be forced outdoors but the process is a much slower one.

Continue forcing chicory and seakale.

Discard chicory, seakale and rhubarb roots, once forcing is finished as they will be totally
worn out and won't crop well again.

Protecting Bay Trees

Bay (Laurus nobilis) is a Mediterranean tree and vulnerable to strong, cold winds and
prolonged, hard frosts..

If the bay is growing in the open ground, or too heavy to move, you can protect it with
screening or sacking as for other tender ornamental shrubs. In a severe winter, the leaves
may turn brown at the edges, but don't worry as it is likely that new leaves will grow in
spring.

Protecting Winter Vegetables

Protect celery with straw or bracken once the winter really sets in. If you are in a windy site,
put netting or soil on the straw to keep it in place. Although parsnips and leeks are perfectly
hardy, in the depths of winter the ground is frequently frozen hard. This makes it very
difficult to dig them out without damaging them. To prevent this, lay straw or bracken
amongst them to stop the ground being frozen too deeply.

Look at stored vegetables occasionally to make sure that all is well. Onions, potatoes (keep
them frost-free), parsnips, carrots, turnips and swedes all store well but, if any diseased
ones are found, remove them immediately as the infection will spread to others. Although
Christmas is nearly upon us, it is time to think about what you want to grow in the coming
year. Try to buy seeds as soon as you can so that you get exactly what you want and are
not disappointed.

Double Digging
If you have just moved into a new house, or if the crops in your existing garden are not what
they should be, it may well be that the ground needs double digging. This method is
explained in detail in our November section and can still be carried out in December
provided the soil is in a fit state.

Protecting Against Pigeons

The main pest at this time of year is likely to be pigeons - they can quickly strip brassicas if
left unprotected. In fact in a really hard winter, few green vegetables are safe, because most
other food sources will be in short supply. The best protection is to net the whole area.
The Fruit Garden

General Tasks
Continue pruning fruit trees and bushes.

Spray with an organic winter tree wash, if necessary.

Continue pruning grape vines and use the prunings for hardwood cuttings.

Continue checking supports and ties of cane fruit, grape vines and trained fruit trees.

Continue planting or heeling in trees and bushes as necessary.

What to do in the fruit garden in December

The pruning of fruit trees and bushes can continue through December Always collect up the
prunings immediately and dispose or burn them. Leaving them lying around on the ground
is an open invitation to disease.

Bonfire ash can be used to top-dress the trees and bushes, giving them a useful feed of
potash. The ash must be spread as soon as it is cool but still while it is still fresh and dry, as
old wet ash will have lost most of its value.

Winter spraying of fruit trees and bushes can start this month. An organic plant-oil based
winter wash is the traditional spray and is available under several brand names. Always
follow the manufacturer's instructions, as with any garden chemicals, and don't spray in
windy, wet or frosty weather. The oil kills scale insects over wintering on the plants, as well
as eggs of aphids and various caterpillars. It also kills any moss or lichen growing on the
bark.

It is not necessary to spray with a winter wash every winter. If your trees are healthy, well
fed and pruned and cropping well, then annual spraying isn't really necessary, and every
alternate, or every third, winter should do. You should also consider its effect on the garden
as a whole.

The oil can kill beneficial insects as well as harmful ones. Lastly, it isn't the home grower but
the commercial growers who need to worry about picture perfect, unblemished fruit.
Therefore, if you have just a few fruit trees, in your garden, and the fruit they produce is
generally unblemished, treat plant-oil washes as an occasional, rather than a regular task.
Continue pruning grape vines. You can use the prunings of one-year-old shoots to make
more plants. Cut them to 25 cm (10 in) lengths, and bury the shoots in the ground by two-
thirds of their length, If you have room for the cuttings in a cold frame, they will root better,
but any sheltered spot outside will do.

Continue checking cane fruit such as raspberries, blackberries and loganberries, plus grape
vines and fruit trees trained against walls, to make sure that they have not come away from
their wires and supports.

Other routine checks include netting against bird damage and examining apples and pears
in store. Planting of bear rooted fruit trees and bushes is another winter task, which can be
done as soon as the plants arrive, providing ground conditions are suitable. If planting
needs to be postponed, heel-in the trees and shrubs until required.

I heard a bird sing.In the dark of December,

A magical thing, And sweet to remember:
"We are nearer to spring
Than we were in September."
~Oliver Herford, "Hope," in The Century Magazine, January 1914