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ATX Power Supply to DC Bench Supply Build No. 2

December 3, 2012 by Mike Doughty

This post is the second in a series on how to convert an inexpensive computer ATX power supply unit (ATX PSU) into a useful tool for
electronics projects or powering devices. The PSU case in previous article had vent holes on the back panel which put the binding
posts in an odd arrangement. The vent holes on the back panel were a li le different on this PSU case which allowed the binding posts
to be arranged a li le differently.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-front.jpg)
DC bench supply converted from inexpensive ATX power supply

The project can probably be completed in a day or so and requires only a few basic tools like a power drill and a few other hand tools.
It would be helpful to have an assortment of heat shrink tubing and a heat gun, plus a hot glue gun, a soldering gun, electrical tape,
some solder and a few other electrical tools like wire cu ers and a wire stripper.

WARNING!! – DO NOT ATTEMPT to modify a computer power supply unless you know what you are doing! There is a possible
danger of electric shock WHICH CAN BE FATAL EVEN IF THE POWER SUPPLY IS NOT PLUGGED IN. When you open a power
supply or a empt to modify it for purposes for which it was not intended, you do so at your own risk!

Wiring Diagram

This project requires the following wiring diagram (the same one from the previous post). It would be helpful to read the first article
in order to understand a li le bit about an ATX PSU and the color coding of the wires.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/wiring-
diagram-lab-bench-power-supply.png)
Wiring diagram for small manufacturing shop dc power supply

There are a lot of wires in an ATX PSU and the project will go a lot faster and easier if you are familiar with them, first. The exact
number of wires and the presence or absence of a couple of them can be expected. Not all PSUs will have a white wire (-5v) or a
brown wire (+3.3v sense wire).

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/3-3v-sense-wire-present-3601.jpg)
On some power supplies the brown +3.3v sense wire is present and shares a pin socket with an orange +3.3v wire on the main
connector.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/3-3v-sense-wire-absent-3601.jpg)
On other power supplies the brown +3.3v sense wire is absent and not found on the main connector.

The white wire was eliminated from newer versions of the ATX specification. You won’t find it in some newer power supplies. In this
case, you will not drill a hole for it or install a binding post for it. If the brown +3.3v sense wire is absent, then this is not a problem. If
it is present, it is simply joined with the rest of the orange +3.3v wires. If it is absent you simply build the unit without it. It won’t
make any difference.
ATX Power Supply Used in This Example

The unit used for this project was a Logisys PS480D 480 wa unit. As of this writing it is still available for purchase. This one was
obtained online through Amazon.com (//Amazon.com). The unit is very reasonably priced and the case front has a good layout with
air vents taking up only about half of the available space on the panel.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-case-and-wires.jpg)
Logisys PS480D 480 Wa Power Supply

There is plenty of room on the front of the case to install binding posts (banana posts), a rocker switch and a green LED.

The unit has a main power switch on the rear of the case along with a socket for a power cord (the part that faces the back of a
computer case). You will install a red LED next to the main power switch to indicate that mains power is turned on and that the unit is
in standby mode. In standby mode the fan does not come on and the outputs are not yet powered up. When the rocker switch on the
front of the unit is turned on, the fan will come on and the green LED will light up, indicating that there is power going to the outputs.

Note: Before taking apart the case and voiding the warranty, you should test it first to make sure it is a good unit. Refer to the section
on how to “Test The Power Supply” in the previous post (h ps://pcbsmoke.wordpress.com/2012/11/21/converting-an-atx-power-
supply-into-a-dc-bench-supply/).
One thing to mention is that the unit that was purchased for this build did not include a power cord. If this is the case, then you’ll have
to buy a 6 ft power cord or use a spare if you have one.

Drill All The Holes in the Case

A drilling template for the layout of all the holes for the binding posts and LED on the front of the case is included with this project in
downloadable Adobe Acrobat PDF format.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/lab-bench-
power-supply-layout-2-template-600.jpg)
Power supply template

You can use this layout (download PDF layout template 2 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/layout-template-2.pdf)).

Important: Before drilling any holes, make sure your power supply comes with a white wire for the -5v output. If it is not present,
then don’t drill a hole for it. You can shift the GND, the +3.3v and the +5v outputs to the right each by one hole and don’t drill the hole
closest to the rocker switch.
Print out the template on plain paper and cut it out. Remove the four screws on the top of the case and remove the top. Pull the wiring
cables and plastic plug from the main slot on the front of the case and then a ach the paper template with repositionable glue
tape (obtainable from a stationery store).

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-template-on-case.jpg)
Paper template a ached to power supply case with repositionable glue tape

Using a hammer and a center punch (or even a long screw made of hardened steel), carefully make a small punch in the center for
each hole. Carefully drill out each hole right through the paper template. Start with a 1/8″ drill bit. Drill each hole once with the 1/8″
drill bit, and then make the final holes for the binding posts with a larger bit.

If you don’t have the exact size drill bit, you can drill the holes slightly undersized and then gradually enlarge them with a tapered
reamer or a round file (a 1/4″ drill bit was used for this unit). Take care with the sheet metal. It is very soft. You can enlarge the hole for
the LED with a utility knife. You don’t have to remove much material.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-case-holes-drilled-front.jpg)
Drill holes on the power supply case through the paper template

Install The Binding Posts and Rocker Switch

After all the holes are drilled, install each binding post and the rocker switch. For this project a Radio Shack #275-694 rocker switch
was used. It was very convenient because it mounts in a round hole. It fit right in without any modification.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-binding-posts-installed-front.jpg)
Binding posts and rocker switch installed on power supply case: front view

Below is view of the inside of the case with the binding posts installed. Use a black binding post for the ground and red binding posts
for the voltage outputs. This is a good view that shows how roomy it is. Most ATX PSUs have two large aluminum heat sinks (like this
one below). The heat sinks in this unit are “T” shaped with holes in the tops to allow air flow. It looks like this design was optimized
to take full advantage of the low air intake slots so the flow of air is channeled underneath for maximum cooling.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-case-binding-posts-installed.jpg)
Binding posts and rocker switch installed on power supply case: inside view

Routing Wires Inside the Power Supply Case

After installing the binding posts and rocker switch, group all the wires together that have the same color. Sort out all the wires going
to the binding posts. Arrange all the red, black, yellow and orange wires in separate groups and include the blue wire and white wire
(if present). If a brown wire is present, include it with the group of orange wires. Then separate out the gray, green and purple wires
for the rocker switch and LEDs.

It would be helpful to lay out all the wires in a routing arrangement to be able to visualize how everything fits together. This is the
time for planning the routing of every single wire. You don’t want to cut any wires too short. Lay them all out in an
arrangement like the photo below. Use clear tape to stick everything down if you have to. Make absolutely sure that the arrangement
allows room for the dummy load resistor and its heat sink (see below). Also make sure that there is enough clearance to fit the top of
the case back on the unit so everything is enclosed.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-wires-routing.jpg)
Routing wires inside the power supply case

If you will notice in the picture above, the green wire, gray wire and one black wire goes to the upper right corner for the rocker
switch and green LED; the purple wire and one black wire goes to the lower right corner for the red LED; and one black wire and one
red wire are set aside for the dummy load resistor.
Solder The LEDs and Rocker Switch

Each LED will require a load limiting resistor. The wiring diagram above calls for a 330 ohm load limiting resistor for the green LED
and a 220 ohm load limiting resistor for the red LED.

Note: These are estimated values for most 3mm T-1 LEDs. To be sure, consult the specifications on the LED’s packaging or use an
online LED calculator (h p://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) to help choose the correct resistors.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-leds-and-wiring.jpg)
Wiring and soldering LEDs and rocker switch

Before soldering cut lengths of heat shrink tube and thread them onto the wires and push them as far back as possible away from the
heat of the soldering iron. After the solder has cooled, push them back over the exposed soldered joints all the way up over the
resistors and up against the LEDs and shrink them down with a heat gun.

Tip: A ach an alligator clip onto the LED leads up close to the LED to function as a heat sink when soldering the LEDs. This will
protect the LED from overheating by diverting heat away from it while soldering.
Using the above picture as a guide:

1. Solder a black wire to one side of the switch and the green wire to the other side.
2. Solder a short length of black wire to the black wire solder joint on the switch.
3. Solder this short length of black wire from the switch to one end of the the 330 ohm resistor.
4. Solder the other end of the 330 ohm resistor to the cathode side of the red LED (the flat side of the LED with the short lead).
5. Solder the gray wire to the anode side of the green LED.
6. Solder the purple wire to the anode side of the red LED and one black wire with the 220 ohm resistor to the cathode side of the red
LED.

Test The Unit Before Proceeding

Plug the power cord into the unit. Turn off the the switch for the voltage outputs on the front of the case with the green LED. Then
turn on the the main switch first. Check first to make sure the red LED lights up.

Next, turn on the switch next to the green LED and make sure that the fan comes on and the green LED lights up. If everything is
working properly, the LEDs will all be lit up and all the outputs will be powered up. You can check them one by one with a
multimeter.

Power the unit down by first turning off the outputs. The green LED should turn off. Then turn off the main power switch. After a few
seconds delay for the unit to discharge, the red LED should then turn off.
If everything is working, glue the LEDs to the inside of the case with hot glue.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-green-led-and-swich-detail.jpg)
Inside and outside views of green LED and rocker switch wiring. Please note hot glue used on inside to secure LED to case. Also
please note wire colors.

The pictures above and below show inside and outside details for the green LED on the front of the case and the red LED on the rear
of the case next to the main power switch.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-red-led-detail.jpg)
Inside and outside views of red LED next to main power switch on rear of case. Please note hot glue used on inside to secure LED to
case. Also please note wire colors.

Ring Terminals For The Binding Posts

Use a ring terminal for each binding post for connecting the wires to the voltage outputs. A ring terminal will fit snugly against the
binding post jam nuts and it is serviceable if it needs to be repaired or replaced. Use a 16-14 ring terminal with a sleeve for either a #6
or #8 stud size:
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/6-16_14-ring-terminal.jpg)
#6 or #8 (16-14) Ring Terminal

These are crimp terminals but you want to solder them instead of crimping them. Remove the vinyl sleeve with a utility knife and
then solder the wires to the terminal. Twist the bundle of wires tightly together, then apply solder to the twisted ends. Cut the
soldered ends to fit inside the terminal sleeve and then solder the wires to the terminal. After soldering, use heat shrink tube to
insulate the sleeve and a partial length of the wires.

If the number of wires will not fit inside the sleeve when twisted and soldered together, then spread the sleeve open with a utility
knife and a small screwdriver. Gently squeeze it onto the wires before soldering.

Each binding post on this unit has two jam nuts. Using a small socket driver, tighten the first nut all the way up against the binding
post. Slip each ring terminal onto the binding post and screw on the jam nut. Tighten the jam nut onto the binding post with the socket
driver.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-inside-details-top-view.jpg)
Top view of wiring to binding posts for power outputs. Please note how wires are routed around the rear of the case to allow room for
the dummy load resistor and heat sink. Red and black wires extending out the right side of case connect to the dummy load resistor.

Below is a view of the inside of the unit with the wires a ached to the binding posts. All the wires are routed neatly inside the unit
and are insulated with heat shrink tubing. The red wire and black wire on the right of the case are for the dummy load resistor.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-binding-post-wiring.jpg)
Another view of wiring to the binding posts for the power outputs. Please note the open space in the center to allow room for the
dummy load resistor and heat sink.

Mounting the Dummy Load Resistor

This unit required a 10 wa , 5 ohm ceramic power resistor. It is mounted to the top of the case with a heat sink. The heat sink is
fastened to the case top with four machine screws (6 – 32 x 3/4 inch screws) with a nut, a washer and a lock washer each. The ceramic
resistor is positioned between the heat sink and the case top and is held securely in place by the machine screws.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-heat-sink-location.jpg)
Location of heat sink for dummy load resistor

The heat sink is made from a 2 inch x 4 inch M24 mending plate – available at most hardware stores. It was trimmed down slightly to
about 3 1/4″ in length. The resistor is positioned lengthwise, in the direction of air flow to reduce turbulence.

After drilling the holes in the heat sink, position it on the inside of the case and put a mark with a felt tip pen through each hole onto
the case top (inside). Place the case top on a flat surface that you can drill through. Use a piece of scrap lumber. Hold the heat sink
tightly in place against the top of the case and use it as a drill guide to drill the holes in the case.
 (h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-trimmed-heat-sink.jpg)
M24 mending plate trimmed down and used as a heat sink for dummy load resistor. A single 10 wa , 5 ohm resistor was selected for
this build and is secured to the case with 4 machine screws.

There is one red wire and one black wire remaining. Solder one lead of the dummy load resistor to the red wire and the other lead to
the black wire. Cover the exposed leads with electrical tape. Position the dummy load resistor between the holes on the inside of the
case top. A ach the heat sink with the four machine screws, nuts and washers, but leave it loose. Gradually tighten each screw,
checking to make sure that the resistor stays in position while tightening. Replace the case top with the four screws when done.

Finally, a ach four 1/2 inch brown vinyl bumpers (available at most hardware stores) to the bo om of the unit to finish the project.

(h ps://pcbsmoke.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/power-supply-
2-with-labels.jpg)
Finished shop DC power supply with labels

Shown in the photo above is the finished shop DC power supply. The last step was to print out another copy of the template from the
PDF and make the labels from it. Many small manufacturers build a lot of their own tools. This one is a good project for manufacturers
who need an economical shop DC supply.

« Previous post Converting an ATX Power Supply Into a DC Bench Supply (h ps://pcbsmoke.wordpress.com/2012/11/21/converting-
an-atx-power-supply-into-a-dc-bench-supply/)

Power Supply Voltage Combinations (h ps://pcbsmoke.wordpress.com/2012/12/10/converted-atx-power-supply-voltage-

combinations/) Next Post »
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Posted in Power Supplies, Projects, Shop Tools | Tagged Convert ATX PSU, Shop DC power supply | 4 Comments

4 Responses

Ruben on August 15, 2017 at 3:49 am | Reply

According to the architecture of my power supply (ATX 12V version 2.3), I found the following minimum currents:

3.3V: 0.5A min

5V: 0.3A min
12V1: 1A min
12V2: 1A min

I was planning on pu ing a dummy resistor on each line to accommodate for these values. Is this necessary? Since all tutorials I
found were talking about pu ing a dummy load on 12V OR 5V line?

Mike Doughty on August 15, 2017 at 9:12 am | Reply

I don’t believe it is necessary to put a dummy resistor on each line. The general guideline is to put the dummy load
resistor on the rail with the most power.

Ruben on August 15, 2017 at 9:31 am

First of all, thank you for the fast response and the very useful guide!
 My power supply has the following specs:
3.3V: 20A max
5V: 20A max
12V1: 17A max
12V2: 15A max

I ordered high power resistors to reach the minimum load on all power lines. But in theory it would be enough to just draw
1A from 12V1 and 12V2?
Some guides even say that, using a recent power supple, it is not even needed to use a dummy load? My power supply was
able to turn on and deliver the correct voltages without any load.
Would it be a bad thing if I did pull the minimum load from all the lines (leaving out of account the obviously wasted
energy)?

Mike Doughty on August 15, 2017 at 12:56 pm

I believe you are right about newer PSUs not needing a dummy load. I have had similar experience but it should be
okay to use a dummy load resistor if you want. Please see this post for more detailed info:
h ps://pcbsmoke.wordpress.com/2012/11/21/converting-an-atx-power-supply-into-a-dc-bench-supply/ The only
purpose of the dummy load resistor is to keep the PSU from shu ing itself off. All you really need is one for the whole unit
to guarantee the PSU has a load and won’t shut down. I hope this helps

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