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2016

Romania:

corina chirileasa
Bucharest, 2015
Bucharest & Beyond

citycompass.ro
The Feel-at-Home Guide to Romania. e-book lite
Enjoyed by Tourists, Expats & Locals COMPLIMENTARY COPY
City Compass Group: Everything you
need to feel at home in Romania!

City Compass
Romania: Bucharest & Beyond
The yearly feel-at-home guide to Romania, enjoyed by
tourists, expats and locals! Now at its 8th edition, in
print and e-book.

Inspiration for life in Romania


Discover events, people, places and business directory in this
practical online guide. Also available in iOS and Android app
versions: City Compass Romania.

Romania-Insider.com
Romania’s most read daily news and features website in
English, now 6 years old.

Business intelligence
The main news, selected and synthesized in English by our
team of senior journalists. Sent daily and weekly.

Expat Fair — The Meeting Point


for Internationals Living in Bucharest
Whether you are new in Romania or have been here for a while,
get ready for the only large-scale event for expats in Bucharest.

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Corina Chirileasa

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Romania:
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The Feel-at-Home Guide to Romania.


Enjoyed by Tourists, Expats & Locals

Highlights
Travel destinations
of this issue around Romania, insights
from insiders

Bucharest essentials,
including Old Town
& Pipera
A new age — delve
into the local
culture & society

Curated & updated


business directory

Bucharest, 2015 r citycompass.ro


Copyright © 2015, Business Insider SRL Founders of City Compass
A 10 Pictor Ion Andreescu St., 1st Fl., Apt. 2, Volker Moser, Christian Pauls, Cristian Bizău
Sector 2, Bucharest, 021424, Romania
W www.citycompass.ro Publisher
Volker Moser Evolker.moser@citycompass.ro
CITY COMPASS 2016 –
ROMANIA: BUCHAREST & BEYOND Editor-in-Chief
CHIRILEASA CORINA Corina Chirileasa Ecorina@citycompass.ro

I. Chirileasa, Corina Associate Editor


Simona Fodor Esimona@citycompass.ro
5300 copies (PRINTED EDITION, 2015) + e-Book version
Proof Reading
Lorena Hughes

Contributors
Abbs Pepper, Alexandra Duță, Anca Meliu, Andrei
Local time
Chirileasa, Angela Nicoara, Bogdan Popa, Corina
Romanian time is GMT+2. Chirileasa, Dave Jordan, Franz Rattenstetter, Ioana
Summertime starts on the last Sunday in March Enache, Irina Chirileasa, Matt Sampalean, Mike Ormsby,
(03:00 becomes 04:00), and wintertime on the last Oana Pascu, Peter Frank, Ruxandra Stan, Simona Fodor,
Sunday in October (04:00 becomes 03:00). Thorsten Kirschner, Viorica Ciufulescu, Volker Moser,
Ximena Reyes
Pronunciation & special signs
Design & Layout
We use the following special signs (diacritics) in PQB Digital Business Communication
our guide: Econtact@pqb.ro
d Ț or ț is pronounced TS like ‘ts’ in ‘skits’
d Ș or ș is pronounced SH like ‘shoe’ Photos
Corina & Andrei Chirileasa, Freeimages.com,
d Ăă, Ââ, and Îî, are difficult — but not impos- City Compass, Wikimedia, Kathrin Weident, Oana Pascu
sible — for most foreigners to master, and they
eventually do. They sort of sound like ‘uh’ but Advertising Sales
we recommend that you just listen very closely Oana Pascu Eoana.pascu@citycompass.ro
as a Romanian pronounces them, and then Roxana Mironov Eadvertising@citycompass.ro
practice thousands of times. Seriously!
Sales & Marketing
Conversions Irina Chirileasa Eirina.chirileasa@citycompass.ro
1 inch = 2.54 cm 1 m = 3.3 ft = 1.1 yd
1 mile = 1.6 km 1 kg = 2.2 lb Administrative Support
1 oz = 28 g 1 Imperial gallon = 4.55 L Ruxandra Stan Eruxandra.stan@citycompass.ro
1 US gallon = 3.78 L
Printing
Smart Print

DISCLAIMER
Unless otherwise stated, all material that is contained within this publication, provided by Business Insider SRL, shall not be reproduced in whole or in part,
without specific written permission. Business Insider SRL offers this guide as a publication for entertainment purposes only and takes no responsibility for
the accuracy of the data or information within its pages. A good faith effort has been made to present the information contained within this book accurately,
however no liability is accepted for any inclusions, exclusions, advice given, or for omissions from the publication. While Business Insider SRL exercises
editorial control for contributions, it takes no responsibility for the actual content provided by its outside contributors, and recognizes that they are solely
responsible for the content they provided. In addition, any information from any outside contributor does not necessarily reflect the ideas and opinions of
Business Insider SRL. Due to the nature of the information business, contact information may change regularly and it is therefore recommended that the
respective websites listed, as well as www.citycompass.ro are consulted for more recent information and updates for listings. Business Insider SRL does not
take any responsibility for the content of links published within its pages as Business Insider SRL has no control over the dynamic nature of those sites and
their content.
Letters from the Editors  3

Dear Romania–Discoverer, Dear Reader,

S I
ince 2008, we have been working on making expats, have often heard what a great companion this book has
tourists and locals in Romania FEEL AT HOME! I am been for many expats and tourists in Romania, and more
proud to present our newest guidebook, which you recently, for natives who returned to their home country
are browsing through right now, be it in print, on a tablet after long stays abroad. This is both an accomplishment
or a smartphone. and a challenge for us: we have to continue to be that great
Have fun discovering Romania with our thoroughly companion for newcomers, while giving our long-time
updated information in 2016! Thanks to our numerous readers something fresh and useful with each new edition.
expert contributors and our dedicated editorial team, Many of the Romanians who return home — some
you will get introductions to a variety of topics about of whom share their “coming back” stories in this book
Bucharest and Romania. too — feel the country has changed
a great deal, and this is what we’re
What have we been covering in the special “A New Age”
up to in 2015? dossier. More than 25 years since the
In autumn 2015, City Com- fall of Communism, Romania seems
pass Group organized the to have truly come of age. This 8th
first Expat Fair in Romania, yearly edition of our guide dives into
bringing together expats and the past to reveal the old, the forgot-
service providers from the ex- ten and the recently remembered,
pat industries in order to fos- and highlights changes in Romanian
ter a smooth transition and society — from arts and culture, to
a good life for internationals politics and social life.
living in Romania. We’re not forgetting the practical
With more than 130,000 sides of life — our regular chapters
unique visitors per month on with places to visit across Romania
average, City Compass Media projects continued to be by have been updated, and so has been the Bucharest direc-
far the most read English news platforms about Romania. tory, including the highlighted Old Town, and Pipera — the
We inform those interested in discovering Romania with expat neighborhood.
daily news and first-hand information. The expat letters in the beginning of this book bring
City Compass Tours & Events and its associated slow diverse views of Romania, and so do the practical features
food catering partner Terra Carpatica provided team such as life in the Romanian countryside, opportunities for
building events, city tours and country retreats for hun- expat spouses, or inspiration for family life in Romania,
dreds of participants. among many others. The updated business directory con-
In November 2015, City Compass Intercultural tains places and businesses we recommend, or which come
Consulting has formed a partnership with German cross- highly recommended by the community.
cultural business consulting company ICUnet.AG and We hope you enjoy every bit of this book as much as we
hence extended its range of premium HR & expatriate have enjoyed putting it together, and that it will help you
consulting offers for multinationals significantly. feel at home in Romania. We’d be happy to hear from you
Let us continue to feel at home in this country together — whether you find this book useful or not — it will help us
and discover the Romania of 2016. Enjoy the read! get even better for the 9th edition!

VOLKER MOSER CORINA CHIRILEASA


Co-Founder, City Compass Managing Partner, City Compass Media

How to use this guide Romania-Insider.com


t+40722 206 413
Check the table of contents on the next two pages for a quick overview wwww.romania-insider.com
of the book, as well as the highlights on pages 16, 49, 70 and 105, and the
alphabetical table of contents at pages 167–168. The content of this guide City Compass – 
is based on recommendations from editors and reliable contributors. The Feel at Home!
practical listings directory includes both editorial listings — picked by edi- t+40734 611 223
tors, or special listings — promoted places, a form of text advertising — both wwww.citycompass.ro
examples to the right. Ads and advertorials are also marked in the book.
4 City Compass

Supporters
The following companies have supported the
printed edition of this guide by buying ads:
 5
6 City Compass

What’s Inside the Full Edition?

Perspective: Romania,
Romania
a New Age
Letters Romanian
from history Culture in the spotlight › 50
Romania Traditions › 54
Old customs & places › 57
›8 › 12
Multicultural Romania › 59
Changing times  › 61
Emergency Facts &
numbers figures Letters from repats › 64
Countryside life › 67
› 14 › 14

All Around Romania Practical listings › 37

Buzău › 17 Sinaia › 21 Alba Iulia › 28 Maramureș › 31

Brașov › 19 Mountains › 24 Sighișoara › 29 Dobrogea › 33

Sibiu › 20 Cluj-Napoca › 26 Bucovina › 30 Near Bucharest› 36


Table of Contents  7

Bucharest Handbook & Practical Listings Directory

Bucharest neighborhoods › 71 At home in Bucharest › 94


Old Town › 72 House & home directory › 151
Pipera › 79 Hotels & travel agencies › 117
Downtown Bucharest by foot › 84
Shopping spree › 98
Eating out & local food › 86 Shopping directory › 140
Eating & drinking directory › 106
Taxes & visas  › 102
Opportunities for spouses › 88 Legal & business directory › 121
Bucharest for families › 89
Maternity & children
directory › 157
Education directory  › 131 Full practical
Getting around Bucharest › 91 listings
Traffic & transport directory › 137 directory

› 105

Looking for a
complete list of
topics? Check out
the alphabetical
index at the end
of the book.

› 167
8 City Compass

About

City Compass Media, the publisher of this guide, with


several publications: City Compass Tours & Events, which organizes and
provides guided tours, corporate events & services,
exclusive team buildings and executive retreats.
etours@citycompass.ro

Romania-Insider.com, market leader for English


news and features about Romania, with daily bulletins,
exclusive features and interviews.
enewsroom@romania-insider.com
eadvertising@romania-insider.com
City Compass Intercultural Consulting, which
RomaniaPressReview.com — A daily and weekly provides premium consulting services and support
executive press review in English for foreign top for expat families, repats and multinational teams in
management, a business intelligence tool for the Romania; we cover programs on leadership, Romanian
Romanian market. business etiquette and mentality, change management,
ereview@romania-insider.com support for M&A, presentation skills and working
successfully in a multinational company in a practical and
CityCompass.ro, a portal about Romania for expats customized way for each customer.
& tourists, provides inspiration through first-hand etrainings@citycompass.ro
information and local knowledge about Romania and its
people in a practical way.

This guide — the annual City Compass Romania:


Bucharest & Beyond travel guide in print, also available
ExpatFair
as an e-book through Amazon.
eadvertising@citycompass.ro Expat Fair — the meeting point for internationals
living in Bucharest, held two times a year. A day full of
information & inspiration, tips and tricks for a good life
in Romania, discounts and offers from expat services
A smartphone application called City Compass providers and useful workshops.
Romania, and a weekly e-newsletter with upcoming eexpatfair@citycompass.ro
events and extra inspiration to discover Romania.

The Feel at Home Club for Romania discoverers:


downloadable e-book, premium articles, special discounts City Compass Group
and offers from trusted partners, as well as events in a10 Pictor Ion Andreescu St., 1st Fl., Bucharest, RO
Bucharest & in amazing locations around Romania. t+40722 206 413
e feelathome@citycompass.ro eoffice@citycompass.ro
wwww.citycompass.ro
City Compass Premium — customized, exclusive wwww.romania-insider.com
information in English about Romania, for companies’ wwww.expatfair.ro
visiting clients or expat colleagues. Personalized & wwww.romaniapressreview.com
branded log-in, and unlimited downloads of our e-books.
epremium.accounts@citycompass.ro
Personalize City Compass  9

What else to do with this guide?


In addition to enjoying the contents of this book yourself, you can also:
ʡʡ Use the guide to promote & strengthen your brand, in a unique way
ʡʡ Connect your name to a positive, beautiful Romania
ʡʡ Include this book in additional benefit packages for your customers, team and visitors

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How can we brand this guide for you?


This printed guide and its accompanying e-book are customizable as special branded editions, with:
ʡʡ Your company’s logo on the cover
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How others have used the special branded edition in the past

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Email advertising@citycompass.ro to get
your personalized special edition
10 City Compass

Romania’s history in brief


By Bogdan Popa the main character of his novel Vlad, who shares his name
with Vlad the Impaler, the cruel, yet beloved, Wallachian
Many Romanians are rightfully proud of their country’s prince (1431, 1456–1462, 1476). His military actions against
very long and eventful history. Here are five key historical the Ottoman Empire — since the 14th Century a danger-
topics all visitors should know about: ous, powerful and influential neighbor — reveal a freedom
fighter. Romanians still remember him, as much as they do
Dacia his cousin, Ștefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great, who lived
Dacia was the name of an ancient kingdom that covered from 1457 to 1504), as both a warrior and church builder.
most of what is now Romania. Its rich resources attracted
the Ancient Greeks, who colonized the shores of the Black Troubled times
Sea. The ruins of their stunning cities are still to be found in The 17th Century began with a significant act: Mihai
Histria, Tomis (today Constanța) and Callatis (Mangalia). Viteazul (Michael the Brave, who ruled shortly between
Hundreds of years later, the mighty Roman Empire decided 1593 and 1601) managed to bring the three principalities
to annex Dacia. under his rule. However, it did not last long. This union
Trajan’s Column, which can still be seen in Rome, is became a cornerstone of the Romanian national identity.
considered the best account of the wars that ended with During the 18th century, the Romanian principalities were
the conquest of Dacia. Romanians define themselves as the run by rulers appointed by the Ottoman sultan, called
descendants of these two populations and speak a Latin “phanariots,” who are still considered the last word in
language. Sarmizegetusa Regia, the ancient Dacian capital, corrupt political regimes. When the Habsburgs annexed
today in Hunedoara County, also deserves some attention. Hungary to Austria, Transylvania followed during the 17th
Recently, there have been a number of exciting archeo- century, and parts of Moldova’s territory were conquered
logical digs that have revealed more about ancient and pre- by Austria (1774) and Russia (1812).
historic Romania, as well as unearthing many valuable arti-
facts. Evidence of a very early Neolithic farming settlement Modern times, union and independence
was just discovered. At around 8,000 years old, this settle- The 19th century brought tremendous transformation for
ment is one of the oldest in Europe. Sarmizegetusa Regia is Romanians. First, the long occupations brought reforms,
listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. The ancient Dacian such as the very first Constitutional Acts in 1834. They also
capital hosts the Dacian Circular Sanctuary, one of the most brought Western clothes, music and dances, all signs of a
important remains of its kind. newly-developing mentality.
There was also a Romanian Revolution in 1848 and,
Vlad Țepeș & Ștefan cel Mare while perhaps not one of the strongest in Europe, it proved
Everybody has heard of Dracula! But before the myth, there the existence of a young and energetic elite, ready to guide
was the history. During the Middle Ages, what we today call the country in the direction of Western Europe.
Romania was divided into three principalities. Transylvania This was the engine of the 1859 Union between Wal-
(the center and northwest) was actually conquered by the lachia and Moldova, the core of the modern state, still re-
Kingdom of Hungary in the 11th Century. ferred to as the “Old Kingdom.” In 1866, a German-born
In the 13th Century, the Hungarian kings invited prince, Carol von Hohenzollern–Sigmaringen, related to
Saxon colonists to migrate there in order to develop the both the French emperor Napoleon III and the German
local economy. imperial family, became King of Romania. He reigned until
The Saxon heritage, architecture and way of life are still 1914, leading a modernization (or Westernization) process
very present in Transylvania. Moldova (the eastern part) stronger than in the previous decades.
and Wallachia (southern Romania) have existed as inde- A new Constitution was passed in 1866. In 1878, fol-
pendent states since the 14th Century. For them, the Middle lowing a war against the Ottoman Empire and the Berlin
Ages were at times dark: there were civil wars and misery Congress, independence was officially gained. Yet, there
aplenty, yet the period also saw the beautiful and unique was never direct Ottoman rule in the principalities. Before
frescoes painted on the outside walls of the UNESCO heri- the First World War, Romania was reliant on agriculture,
tage monasteries in Northern Moldova. but industry was beginning to emerge. In 1913, modern
Bram Stoker, the author of the novel Dracula (first pub- Romania asserted its claims as a regional power through
lished in 1897), did not, however, know too much about the a decisive military and political intervention in the Second
Romanian Middle Ages. This did not stop him from naming Balkan War.
Romanian History 11

Greater Romania, Communism & Revolution until May 1945. But despite celebrating V-Day, the outcome
Romania fought the First World War with the winning side. of the war was terrible for Romanians. In 1945, the first
The year 1916 saw Romania taking arms against the Central communist-led government came to power. On December
Powers. Finally, after heroic fights and a bit of luck, the 1859 30, 1947, the last King of Romania abdicated and a Popular
Old Kingdom increased with the addition of Transylvania Republic was proclaimed. The communist regime meant
and the territories lost over the centuries to Austria, political repression, forced industrialization and difficult,
Russia and the Ottoman Empire. This was the beginning conflicting daily life. Nicolae Ceaușescu’s ascension to
of what we call today, with nostalgia, “Greater Romania.” power in 1964 and his policy in the early years was greeted
The interwar period was a time of economic and cultural as a possible change, but enthusiasm faded over the next
growth, but problems were not solved by the 1918 Union. decade. The 1980s were a complete economic and social
On the contrary, the new state had to cope with new and disaster. Yet, for many, communism was a chance to start
major economic, cultural and political challenges. a different life. For others, it meant repression, hard daily
But this Golden Age also sowed the seeds of the fas- life and a general setback. It ended in 1989, following the
cist movements, the collapse of Greater Romania in 1940, December 22 Revolution.
and the complete about-turn in the country’s diplomacy.
In 1941, following a short extreme right-wing government Bogdan Popa was born, raised, educated and
(replaced after a bloody coup attempt by a military regime) still lives in Bucharest. He has a PhD in history
Romania joined the Second World War, aiming to fight with from the University of Bucharest and is a
the Nazis against the Soviet Union. After Stalingrad, how- cultural & historical expert for City Compass
ever, the Romanian military and political elite realized that Tours & Events and City Compass Intercultural
everything was lost. On August 23, 1944, Romania withdrew Consulting.
its alliance with the Axis Powers and fought for the Allies

Feel at home
everywhere.
Whatever your needs might be:
 Conferences
 Management meetings and incentive trips
 Exclusive team building and team retreats
 VIP tours in Bucharest and Romania,
You can count on us for the sound organization
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tours@citycompass.ro +40 744 336 464 citycompass.ro


12 City Compass

Emergency Facts & figures about Romania

numbers ʡʡ Location: Central and Eastern Europe, bordered


by Hungary (W), Bulgaria (S), Ukraine (N, E), the
Republic of Moldova (E), Serbia (SW) and the
Black Sea (SE). Romania has 225 km of coastline.
t112 Marie Curie ʡʡ Capital city: Bucharest. Iași is the second
This is a toll-free, a20 Constantin largest city with 321,000 inhabitants, Tulcea
general number & can be Brâncoveanu Blvd. has 200,000. Other major cities: Timișoara,
dialed from any phone, t+40214 604 260 Cluj-Napoca, Constanța, Brașov, Sibiu.
even when locked. Children’s hospital ʡʡ Regions of Romania: Muntenia, Transylvania,
Moldova, Dobrogea. 41 counties.
GENERAL Colentina ʡʡ Population: 20.1 million (2011 census).
a19-21 Șos. Ștefan ʡʡ Bucharest: 1.8 million inhabitants.
Electricity – Enel cel Mare ʡʡ Ethnicity: 89% Romanians, 6.5% Hungarians,
t+4021 9291 t+40213 173 245 3.3% Roma, 0.3% others; 18 ethnic minorities
politically recognized.
Gas – Engie Bagdasar Hospital ʡʡ Religion: majority – Christian Orthodox,

Expa
t+4021 9281 a12 Berceni St. a minority of Roman Catholics and Greek
t+40213 343 025 Catholics.
Toxapel ʡʡ Climate: temperate – cold, cloudy winters with
t+40212 106 282 University Hospital frequent snow and fog; sunny & hot summers
Info for first aid in case a169 Splaiul with frequent showers and thunderstorms.
of intoxications. Independenței ʡʡ Lowest point: Black Sea – 0 meters. Highest
t+40213 180 519 point: Mount Moldoveanu – 2,544 meters.
Child protection ʡʡ Natural resources: petroleum, timber, gas,
t116 111 Floreasca coal, iron ore, gold, silver, salt, arable land,
Only from the Telekom a8 Calea Floreasca hydropower.
network t+4021 9622 ʡʡ Natural hazards: earthquakes, landslides, floods.
ʡʡ Form of organization: Republic, with a President
Consumer protection Matei Balș Institute and a Prime Minister who runs the Government.
t+4021 9551 a1 Calistrat Grozovici It has a Parliament with two Chambers.
St. t+40212 010 980 ʡʡ Membership: EU since 2007, NATO since 2004.
Anti-corruption line Anti rabies vaccine here! ʡʡ Currency: the Leu – symbol RON. The Leu is a
t+40800 806 806 controlled floating currency: exchange rates
Victor Babeș against the EUR, USD and other currencies are
HOSPITALS a281 Mihai Bravu Blvd. set daily by the country’s Central Bank (BNR).
t+40213 172 727 ʡʡ Gross Domestic Product: EUR 150.4 bln (in 2014).
Grigore Alexandrescu Infectious and Tropical ʡʡ Unemployment rate: 4.9% in August 2015.
a30-32 Iancu de Disease vaccinations. ʡʡ Phone prefix: +40; Internet domain: .ro.
Hunedoara Blvd. ʡʡ Flag: three equal vertical bands; blue, yellow, red.
t+40213 169 366 ʡʡ Language: the official language is Romanian.
Children’s hospital, 24/7 ʡʡ National holiday: December 1, celebrating
Unification Day

Dive into Romania's culture!


Many more insights on Romania-Insider.com
The top choice for daily news & features
in English about Romania.

is part of
Useful Numbers 13

ExpatFair

EXPAT FAIR BUCHAREST 2015


atFair IN A NUTSHELL
A relaxed, casual and informative day for
visitors and exhibitors alike
The first Expat Fair in Romania, organised by the City Compass Group,
was held on the 3rd of October 2015 at The Ark.

Highlights:
• 60 companies, with tailored services for expats and special offers —
moving & relocation, rent a car and international schools, wellness
and hospitality
• 8 workshops — tips and tricks for a smooth integration in Romania
• 400 participants — expats, internationals living in Bucharest
and Romanians
• Very open and friendly atmosphere — a day full of information
and inspiration for everyone.
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14 City Compass

All Around
Romania
e f u ll edition
Th es:
includ

ʡʡ Breathtaking mountains and wild forests in Buzău


ʡʡ Natural beauty and history in Brașov
ʡʡ Culture for the heart in Sibiu
ʡʡ Sinaia, the former royal residence
ʡʡ Everything mountain around Romania
ʡʡ Cluj-Napoca, where time stands still
ʡʡ Alba-Iulia, a surprising citadel
ʡʡ Sighișoara, the medieval getaway
ʡʡ The tasty Bucovina
ʡʡ The little wonders of Maramureș
ʡʡ The southern soul of Dobrogea —
the Black Sea & Danube Delta
ʡʡ Getaways near Bucharest
ʡʡ Recommended places from all around Romania
All Around Romania: Brașov 15

Brașov, the mountain gateway


population. Thus, Romanians settled in areas outside the
fortifications, such as the Șchei District, which is one of the
oldest. Here, the houses are smaller, huddled together, and
the streets are narrower.
Downtown, a walk up the pedestrian Republicii Bou-
levard reveals shop after shop, as well as numerous cafés
and restaurants, the delight of locals and tourists. Hard to
miss from the center is the town’s name in Hollywood-style
lettering on a mount called Pinnacle (Tâmpa) — 955 meters
high. To get there, take the cable car which leaves from the
station on Aleea Brediceanu — also the starting point of a
marked footpath up to the top.
Leaving town, at the end of the narrow valley, a for-
est road leads through the woods to the Poiana Brașov ski
resort, 12 kilometers outside the city. It is accessible by car
By Holger Wermke, updates by Corina Chirileasa via Stejărișului St. or from the small town of Râșnov. Eight
ski-slopes are available, ranging from 300 meters to three
kilometers in length.
Brașov is probably one of the best known Brașov’s surrounding regions also offer some interest-
mountain cities in Romania. This central ing places. Pretty much everyone has heard of Bran Castle,
Romanian town, close to the Prahova Valley, is a which is often connected to Count Dracula. The castle was
built by the Brașovians to control a toll collection point.
tourist destination for both locals and foreigners, There are stories that Vlad Tepeș (Vlad the Impaler), the
who choose it not only for its natural beauty, but historical Wallachian prince who inspired the Dracula leg-
also for its historical significance. end — at least in part — stayed a night or two here.
The castle lies at the edge of the Bucegi Massif moun-

T
he city was founded by Teutonic knights at the tain range. A recommended natural site is the National Park
beginning of the 13th century, and until the 18th of King’s Rock (Piatra Craiului). Lying along the 25 kilome-
century was still predominantly inhabited by ter-long limestone ridge are a number of peaks, the 2,244
Transylvanian Saxons. This heritage gives the city its meter Piscul Baciului being the highest. The area is a hide-
distinctively German feel. away for rare plants and animals, among them wolves and
Brașov’s Old Town lies in the heart of the city, with its bears — a paradise for nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts.
fan-shaped Town Hall Square (Piața Sfatului), lined with You must not miss the fortified church of Prejmer,
red-roofed merchant houses and Town Hall in the middle. about 15 kilometers outside of Brașov. The monolithic
The building dates back to 1420 and for centuries hosted white colossus dominates the wide square of the village.
the Saxon town council. The Town Hall is home to the city’s Ten-meter-high walls repelled attacking enemies. The vil-
tourist office, which provides plenty of information about lage was sacked more than 50 times over the centuries, but
local accommodation, sights and events. the holy fortress resisted. In 1999, UNESCO put it on their
The Old Town, framed by the steep slopes of a sur- world heritage list. All the former Saxon villages in this re-
rounding valley, also hosts the 65-meter-high tower of the gion have their own fortified church, as you will see if you
so-called Black Church, which got its name after a devastat- drive through the country; in contrast, peasant fortresses
ing fire swept across the town in the 17th century, leaving it are a rarity.
with soot-blackened walls. How to get there from the capital city: by car, via Ploiești
The largest Gothic church in Romania, built between (either through DN1A, or the A3 highway, then DN1A) — a
1385 and 1477, became mostly Baroque after several reno- three-hour ride or longer at weekends, as you have to go
vations in the interior. It currently hosts a large collection through the Prahova Valley and its resorts crippled by traf-
of Turkish carpets. fic jams during weekends and holidays; to avoid it, drive
Through the Șchei gate, some 300 meters behind the through Ploiești towards Cheia to reach Brașov directly; by
Black Church, is the traditional Romanian district. Un- train, also through Prahova Valley — check the Transport
til the 17th century, Romanians were not allowed to buy section of this guide for railway information.
property within the city walls – a privilege of the Saxon
16 City Compass

Sinaia, the pearl of the Carpathians


By Ioana Enache high-class families started building their own residences
in Sinaia. They appointed the best Romanian architects of
the time, such as T. Socolescu and P. Smărăndescu, while
Sinaia is a must-see city in Romania for its others decided to work with foreign architects to make sure
unmatched history. It is the former summer their properties were elegant, fashionable, and, most im-
residence of the Royal Family and has a large portantly, unique.
number of monuments: beautiful buildings At the beginning of the 20th century, Sinaia was the
place to be: an elegant, cultural and lively city, a special
designed by famous Romanian and European retreat for powerful Romanian and foreign families, and a
architects. year-round tourist attraction. Sinaia is a charming, full of
history, impressive architecture and great landscapes, but,

S
inaia grew just like in a fairytale. When the first King as communism has left its marks on the city, sometimes its
of Romania, Carol I, visited the area for the first time, treasures are hidden behind newly-built hotels or blocks of
he fell in love with the surroundings and decided to flats. I recommend you to take an organized tour of Sinaia
establish his summer residence there. At the time, there was organized by Asociația Redescoperă Sinaia to make sure
just the Monastery of Sinaia and a very small number of you see the real city.
inhabitants in the area. My advice would be to stay a week or at least 2-3 days.
Once he decided to build a castle, the King appointed You really have to spend some time to feel the city: breathe
an architect to develop the plans and, almost at the same the fresh air and enjoy the beautiful landscape, visit muse-
time, people of culture, high-ranking politicians and ums, go hiking, go to the park, go to the casino building,
All Around Romania: Sinaia 17

recently re-opened for public eyes, swim in one of the two ing built to manage the high weekend demand.
local pools, get a massage, have a nice dinner, take a walk Up in the mountains, there is also the Stâna Regală
and you will be highly rewarded for your curiosity. Then, cabin and restaurant. It is a hard drive, almost an hour on a
schedule day trips to the Babele rocks, the Rhein cellars in poor road, but once there, don’t miss the view from Franz
nearby Azuga, or the cities of Brașov, Sighișoara or Bran. Iosif Stone — if the sky is clear, you should be able to see the
Please take time to visit the Peleș and Pelișor castles, entire Prahova Valley — a breathtaking view.
including their interiors. Peleș is one of the best preserved Finally, you can take the family to swim at Hotel New
castles in Europe and has a mix of eclectic styles from all Montana or Hotel Mara, or go bowling at Hotel Interna-
over the world in special decorated theme rooms which are tional Sinaia. Be aware that when the weather is bad it can
a great joy for any visitor. You will have to be informal and be full on Friday and Saturday afternoons, so you might
patient at the cafeteria across from the castle, which has a need to book in advance.
self-service system, but recently some nice restaurants have My favorite place for food experience in Sinaia is Kuib,
opened nearby. located in the Cumpătu area. They have a large variety from
The main park in Sinaia should be next on your list. rawfood to international cuisine. Also the place is a non-
It is well maintained and provides a great experience for smoking one and this is a plus. Should you want to enjoy
adults and kids as well as for couples looking for a romantic traditional Romanian food you can choose Cabana Schiori,
escapade. or you could try Italian food at Cucina Sofia. Sometimes it
George Enescu’s house is a little-known touristic spot, is just nice to get a pizza on the go. There is a small pizzeria
as it is not located in downtown Sinaia. The famous Roma- near Cafeneaua Parcului that is excellent.
nian composer’s former house is in the Cumpătu neighbor- In Sinaia it rains often, so it’s a good idea to have a rain-
hood — which is a residential, quiet and elegant area on coat and proper shoes with you. Generally the showers are
the opposite mountain from the city center. Enescu’s for- short and you might see the sun again soon so don’t give up
mer residence, which was built using the great musician’s the plan for the entire day if it rains in the morning. Carry
own plans and instructions, was recently renovated and warm clothes with you at all times — even if it’s 38 degrees
offers entry tickets and audio guides (in the main foreign Celsius in Bucharest. It can still get very cold in Sinaia, es-
languages) at a ridiculously low price. The visit is rich in pecially if it rains or if you’re on top of the mountain.
information and also very personal as you are surrounded A short drive north of Sinaia brings you to the Rhein
by Enescu’s music all the way through. Wine Cellar in Azuga, where you can see how they produce
As previously mentioned, a walking tour should Rhein Champagne, which has been made in Romania since
not be missed. These tours are organized by Asociația 1889. They also have a restaurant and a small wine shop
Redescoperă Sinaia, who have done extensive research. where you can buy award-winning Romanian wines.
The tours will help you discover great places, architecture If you are staying in homeaway accommodation or
and monuments, but are also full of short stories that will want to help yourself to some food, you can find fresh vege-
help you absorb more the greatness of the area. You can tables and fruits at Sinaia market, which is located on a nar-
start in Sinaia, visit Bușteni and return, or vice versa. For row street opposite Hotel Montana. Also, check the Angst
more details, contact Asociația Redescoperă Sinaia for supermarket for fresh, locally-produced ham and various
guide recommendations (office@redescoperasinaia.ro). meat specialties for the grill. Fresh fish, especially trout, is
Skiing, snowboarding and paragliding are also good available in Azuga, a 10-minute drive from Sinaia.
options in the winter. The view at Cota 2000—when the If you have a recommendation to add or want to find
sky is clear—is unbeatable and will fill you with good en- out more about Sinaia, please e-mail office@redescopera-
ergy and peace. sinaia.ro — the association focuses on the sustainable de-
Sinaia Park offers playgrounds for different ages and a velopment of the city.
‘Tyrolean’ zip-wire experience when the weather allows it. How to get there from Bucharest: by car, via the Bucha-
On rainy days, you can take the kids to the Carmen Sylva rest — Ploiești highway, or via the DN1, along Prahova Val-
Cultural Center, where they can read and paint. Check the ley. The only rush hours are Friday afternoon to Sinaia and
schedule as sometimes they organize guitar lessons on Sat- Sunday afternoon on the way back to Bucharest; by train,
urdays. The playgroud near Kuib Reastaurant in Cumpatu from the North Railway Station — check the Transport sec-
is also a good option while the entire family can also enjoy tion in this book.
a nice lunch or dinner.
The cable car up the mountain makes two stops: one at Ioana Enache is one of the founders of the
1,400 m, and the next at 2,000 m. The view on top is stun- Asociația Redescoperă Sinaia, which aims to
ning — but be warned, at the stations everything is written revitalize the town of Sinaia and reestablish it
in Romanian. Between May and September, you can enjoy as an elegant, charming and green city with a
a long or a short hike and from December to April or some- good quality of life and rich cultural offerings.
times as late as May, you can go skiing. New ski lifts are be-
18 City Compass

Up the mountain
By Corina Chirileasa ed into three main groups: Oriental (to the east), Meridi-
onal (south), and Occidental (to the west). When looking
at Romania’s map, the country seems to revolve around its
Foreigners often praise Romania’s mountains for mountain chain as its main regions surround it.
their astounding beauty and for their diversity. The tallest peaks can be found in the Meridional Car-
Indeed, Romania has plenty of mountainous areas pathians, in a group called the Făgăraș Mountains. The
highest is the Moldoveanu peak at 2,544 meters. These
to cater to any taste. The Carpathians are the main
chains are often compared to the Alps (they are also called
chain of mountains in the country. the Transylvanian Alps) and are more popular among tour-

T
hey can also be found in other countries: the Czech ists than other elevations in Romania.
Republic, Slovakia, Poland, and Ukraine. But The Occidental Carpathians comprise the Apuseni
Romania hosts half of this chain, which is vital to Mountains to the west, and the Banat Mountains to the
Europe as it is the last region on the continent to support southwest. These are lower – the highest peak is at 1,850
large mammals such as brown bears, wolves and lynxes. meters.
Across Romania, the Carpathian Mountains are divid- The Oriental Carpathians to the east separate the region
All Around Romania: Other Mountain Resorts 19

of Moldova from the central region of Transylvania. The The Cross on the Caraiman Peak is the tallest cross
highest peak, Pietrosul Rodnei, in the Rodnei Mountains at such an altitude — 2,291 meters, according to the Gui-
stands at 2,303 meters. ness Book (2014). It is visible from down the valley when
There’s another group of mountains often forgotten – driving in Bușteni. Made of steel and almost 40 meters tall,
the Dobrogei Mountains in southeastern Romania. These the cross was built in the 1920s to commemorate Romanian
are very old, and hence with low altitudes, similar to hills. heroes who died in the First World War. To reach it, take the
The highest peak is the Greci at 467 meters. However, the cable car from Bușteni to the Babele (expect long queues at
Dobrogei have spectacular views with rolling hills leading the cable car during the weekend), and from there, hike for
to vast plains. about half an hour. Both the route and the view from the
All across Romania’s mountains, the hiker will find a cross are spectacular!
diversity of rocks, which have led to beautiful valleys, lakes, The Omu Peak is the highest peak in the Bucegi
waterfalls, and high altitude mountain passes. During Mountains (2,505 meters), so it is reachable from the Pra-
winter, skiing is very popular, with several new ski slopes hova Valley. It can also be accessed from Sinaia, Bușteni or
opened in recent years, backed up by EU funding. Bran, on various hiking trails, as well as by cable car from
Many Romanians enjoy mountain hiking. Especially in Bușteni. From there, it’s a two hour hike on one of the 40
the younger generation, there’s an increasing wave of love hiking trails starting from Sinaia, Bușteni or Azuga. Ski on
towards the mountain. Foreigners also appreciate what Ro- one of the 20 slopes in Sinaia, Bușteni and Azuga, includ-
mania’s mountains have to offer, although many foreigners ing slopes for beginners. Best period – December to March.
and locals go to mountain resorts out of habit or because it The Iulia Hașdeu Castle in Câmpina is a beautiful
is fashionable, rather than because they love it. building erected in the late 1800s by Romanian scientist
and writer Bogdan Petriceicu Hașdeu for his daughter Iulia,
who died at 18. The castle is full of symbols, and was home
Prahova & Doftana Valleys to the father’s spiritism sessions, where he said he’d meet
This is the most popular region for those who want to his dead daughter.
spend time in the mountains and the closest to Bucharest –
a two-hour drive (or more during weekends, because of the
traffic jams since everyone wants to go there). Named after Rânca
the Prahova river, the region has dug a valley into the Bucegi Rânca is a recently developed Romanian resort, at an
Mountains in southeast Romania. altitude of 1,600 meters, at the foothill of Păpușa Peak in
We’ve covered the city of Brașov and the resort of Sinaia the Parâng Mountains — the Meridional Carpathians. The
on previous pages, but there are several other mountain re- resort is crossed by the famous Transalpina high altitude
sorts in the Prahova Valley. The first one on the route from road, and includes six ski slopes.
Bucharest to Brașov is Câmpina, then comes Comarnic,
followed by Sinaia. Bușteni, Azuga and Predeal follow suit,
just before reaching Brașov. These mountain resorts are Arieșeni
quite close to each other, so often travelers will find accom- This is one of the most popular resorts in the Apuseni
modation in one resort, and either ski or hike in others, or Mountains in Western Romania. Also including ski slopes,
just visit places across the valley. Arieșeni is the start point to visits in the region – to the
Not as popular as Prahova Valley, but equally - if not Bihorul Peak — the tallest in the Apuseni Mountains, at
even more - beautiful is the Doftana Valley. Lake Doftana 1,849 meters — or to the Scărișoara underground glacier,
offers amazing views, and the whole area is quiet - and yet as well as to two famous caves, the Coiba Mare and the
not as overcrowded. To reach it, drive to Câmpina, then Cetățile Ponorului. The latter has the tallest cave entry in
take the right turn. Romania, 75 meters high.

Not to miss in the Prahova Valley: Vatra Dornei


The Babele and the Sphinx are two rock formations This resort is the most famous in northeastern Romania,
shaped by the wind and the rain, at over 2,200 meters in in the Moldova region of Bucovina. Part of the Oriental
altitude. The first resembles a group of old ladies (Babă Carpathians, Vatra Dornei also has ski slopes, spas, and
with the plural Babe means old lady/ladies in Romanian). breathtaking views. Located at the confluence between the
The latter has an even more interesting shape — that of a Bistrița and Dorna rivers, Vatra Dornei is one of the oldest
head, and is one of the symbols of Romania’s mountains. resorts in Romania. While there, walk past several historic
Both are in the Bucegi Mountains, and are reachable from monuments — the casino, the main spa building, the
the Bușteni resort, by cable car, or by car from Sinaia on the Sentinela Spring, the two railway stations and the town hall.
TransBucegi road.
20 City Compass

Dobrogea, the southern soul —


seaside, history & Danube Delta
By Corina Chirileasa, contributions by Sorana Burtilă between the rolling hills, relics of old fortresses,
and lots of history which combines in an unique
It’s rather windy in Dobrogea, a small region in way with the novelty of numerous wind parks.
southeast Romania, home to two main attractions:

T
he two main cities in the region are Tulcea and
the Black Sea coast with its famous resorts, and Constanța, capitals of their respective counties.
the Danube Delta. Besides these two main hot Tulcea is the entry gate to the Danube Delta, and
spots, the Dobrogea region itself is worth visiting Constanța is the centre of the seaside attractions, together
at length: it has small mountains — the Măcinului with its satellite resort Mamaia.
Coming from Romania’s Muntenia region (or Bucha-
range — and picturesque roads winding their way
rest), the easiest way is to choose one of the two bridges
All Around Romania: Dobrogea 21

crossing the Danube: Giurgeni – Vadu Oii or Fetești – getting to Vama Veche requires a slightly longer journey.
Cernavodă. The latter is the typical route to the Romanian Vama Veche is close to the border with Bulgaria, to the
seaside, via the A3 highway — also known as the Sun High- south of Constanța. By car, you have to pass Mangalia and
way. The option to cross the Danube on a ferry is also avail- head further south, while public transport will get you by
able at Brăila and Galați. train or bus to Mangalia train station and then by bus to
The northern Dobrogea region closer to the Danube Vama Veche, and to its sister resort 2 Mai — which is yet
Delta and to the sea has its charm, and driving to Tulcea another option for those free-spirited people who want to
from either Măcin, Babadag or Topolog will reveal pic- enjoy a less commercial holiday.
turesque villages, enormous fields, and lakes dotted here Another option for those searching for a peaceful
and there. Driving around the large Razim lake is recom- holiday is Gura Portiței, a seaside resort which lives in two
mended, with its highlight at Enisala, where the medieval worlds: the Black Sea, and the Danube Delta. To get there,
castle overlooks the lake and the hilly countryside from on you have to take the boat from Jurilovca, which is in the
high. Then, going further south, Jurilovca is a must. It gives northern part of the seaside, and cross Golovița Lake. Pub-
access to the Doloșman cape and to the Argamum–Orgame lic transport to the resort is slow, so if you’re in a hurry and
ruins. From Jurilovca, boats across the Golovița Lake are want to reach Gura Portiței fast, hire a private speed boat.
available to reach one of the few remaining, almost un- However, if you are taking the one-and-a-half-hour boat
spoiled seaside spots in Romania: Gura Portiței. trip, which costs RON 30 per person per trip, go early in the
morning, as the last boat returning to Jurilovca is at 20:00
and you will want to spend a full day enjoying the wilder-
The beaches, the parties and the ness. Remember, private, faster boats are also available for
unspoiled Black Sea larger groups and the pricing per person is better.
It feels like the end of the world, as it is one of the few
The Romanian coast at the Black Sea seems to have remaining, nearly-intact coastal spots in Romania, but
something for every taste. It’s got posh retreats, places for you’ll not be alone there. There is accommodation available
family fun, resorts for hippies and for nudists, lively spots as well as enough room for camping.
for young people and even a few untouched beaches away If being cut off from the world is your cup of tea, then
from the noise. head to either Corbu or Vadu beaches which are in the
Despite complaints from tourist associations that tour- northern part of the shore. These are two virgin beaches
ism in Romania is underdeveloped, the Romanian seaside where, although you will not be completely alone (others
is fully booked every summer. Almost everywhere you go, have discovered them too), it will be much quieter than the
expect it to be crowded from June to the end of August. rest of the area. Access is not easy but they are not far from
Some resorts are more popular than others and some have the city of Constanța — just keep north and drive past Ma-
gained almost overnight popularity. The official beach sea- maia and Năvodari, on the same route which takes you to
son starts on May 1, when many Romanians go to the sea- the Danube Delta. Do bear in mind that these two beaches
side for the first time in the year. September is sometimes a are indeed virgin, meaning there’s no accommodation
good month to go to the Romanian coast, depending on the available and no amenities — just a place to camp, the sand
weather, while August is probably one of the busiest. and the sea.
When most Romanians speak about going to the sea
shore they have one destination in mind: the famous resort
of Mamaia. It is the fashionable choice and, as a result, it is The Danube Delta — the wild side
overcrowded every summer. The resort is expensive, with The Danube Delta is a preferred holiday destination for
plenty of luxury accommodation options, and boasts some many Romanians and foreigners due to its uniqueness
lively nightlife. Many choose Mamaia not so much for its and tranquility, on the one hand, and for its natural riches,
beach — which is almost entirely privately managed — as on the other. The Danube Delta Biosphere Reservation,
for its parties. the only delta in the world with this status, is the biggest
When it comes to parties, Vama Veche is another op- compact reed area and one of the largest waterbird wetland
tion, and is definitely cheaper than Mamaia. Vama Veche habitats on the planet: a paradise of pelicans, water lilies
village used to be a hippie resort, home to the “flower pow- and fish.
er,” free-spirited generation (think “Woodstock forever”), Most often, the first stop in the delta is the city of Tulcea
but it has become increasingly popular in recent years and — the gateway to the Danube Delta. Tulcea is accessible by
now hosts a mixed crowd: those who come to regain their car or public transport, and the Augustina Trans Company
free spirit and listen to music while camping on the beach, runs daily trips from Bucharest. The trip takes approxi-
and those who are there because it is trendy. mately four and a half hours with a twenty-minute break
While Mamaia is easy to reach — just take the highway at a service station. The landscape draws attention, and
from Bucharest and Mamaia will be next to Constanța — who could resist taking a photo of the sunflower and canola
22 City Compass

fields? A train connection is also available from Bucharest. boats, which are impossible to miss during a stroll on the
Tulcea can be overwhelming at first, particularly in the Tulcea waterfront; visitors are overwhelmed with questions
summer months, with the bustle of tourists and the sirens such as: do you wish to take a trip to the delta? Do you need
of ships — a turmoil that precedes an adventure into the fast transportation to a village or town?
delta’s watery realm. Nevertheless, do not be hasty; regard- We recommend public transportation to anyone com-
less of how drawn you are to the Danube, it is worth paus- ing to the delta, despite the protests this might stir. If the
ing here, be it for a couple of hours or a night’s stay, lodged sojourn lasts at least four days and you are not pressed for
at one of the many hotels on the waterfront. time, then public transportation is the best option to feel
Adventure, relaxation, exploration, sports, family, cul- the pulse of the delta. Do not expect luxury conditions! But
tural tourism… the delta has a story for everyone. For trips you should expect to find fascinating people, to discover
of a day or a day and a half, the recommended option would their life stories, hardships, challenges and joys.
be to sleep at a hotel in Tulcea and from there take a 4–5 At the end of the journey down the Chilia branch, on
hour trip through the canals. the border between Romania and Ukraine, travelers can
A trip to Sfântu Gheorghe, one of the oldest Dan- discover the Periprava Lipovan village, which feels far, far
ube branches, will take up to two days. The first towns, away from the noisy turmoil of the town, in the middle of
Mahmudia and Murighiol, can be reached by car, saving nature, where the sky, earth and water meet.
time and money. However, going by water is better. It is, This area represents a true cultural mosaic: Periprava
after all, the Danube Delta. Beautiful landscapes reveal is a Lipovan village, Sfiștofca and Letea have Ukrainian
themselves on the narrow and hidden canals, so ask locals populations, and C.A. Rosetti has a mainly Romanian
for help. Nearly every pension provides boat trips on the population.
adjacent lakes and canals. The best time of the year to go to the delta depends on
On the Sfântu Gheorghe branch, people often talk the purpose of the visit: spring for ornithologists (April,
about the town that bears the same name. It’s a town that May), summer for a first trip, when water lilies and pelicans
feels remote from the rest of the world, where the Danube abound (June, July, August), autumn for fishermen (pike in
merges into the Black Sea. particular) and winter for hunters.
Access to town is only possible by boat, which can be
taken from Tulcea (a four-hour trip), Mahmudia (a two-
and-a-half hour trip) or Murighiol (a two-hour trip). The HINTS FOR VISITING THE DANUBE DELTA:
trips are organized by a company called Navrom Delta.
Near Sfântu Gheorghe’s sandy beach is the venue for ʡʡ Remember to always carry cash with you, in local
the Anonimul International Independent Film Festival, currency; you will not find any ATMs, currency
usually held every August. Danube’s middle branch, Suli- exchange points or POSs for payments by card.
na, is the most easily accessible to tourists. Daily trips leave ʡʡ Write down the destination you wish to reach and
for Sulina, either through the Navrom Delta Company or the specific route; while in Tulcea, some people speak
through private companies. foreign languages, English in particular. Once in the
The Mila 23 fishermen’s village, situated on the Old heart of the delta, finding someone who can speak
Danube, is at the heart of a maze of canals, pools and foreign languages gets more and more difficult; the
swamps. It is one of the most important and best known exception are large lodging complexes which often
jumping-off points for tourist itineraries in the delta. Crișan have foreign language-speaking staff.
fishermen’s village completes the picture. This is also the ʡʡ Do not forget insect repellent. There are some myths
starting point for tourist itineraries, towards the Caraor- about the mosquitoes in the delta, but in reality,
man bank (renowned for its sand dunes) or towards the mosquitoes emerge mainly when night sets in and it
Roșu and Puiu lakes. is better to go indoors; daytime should be mosquito-
Finally, at the end of the journey on this branch is the free. Nonetheless, with children it’s worth applying
second largest town in the Danube Delta: Sulina; it’s the insect repellent at all times, as their sensitive skin
easternmost town in Romania, the headquarters of the makes them more susceptible to bites.
European Danube Commission, the location of a maritime ʡʡ Regardless of whether it is summer or not, do not
graveyard unique to Romania and even to Europe, and has forget warm clothes for the cooler nights, as well
a wild sandy beach. as rain coats and wind stoppers — especially when
The westernmost and probably wildest branch of the taking trips on the canals.
Danube, the Chilia branch, is the perfect place for people ʡʡ Mobile phones can’t get a good signal everywhere,
with a passion for nature and fishing. Tourism here is less so as many details as possible should be planned
developed, which is probably why the area has kept its prior to departure.
wild, unexplored character. The journey here also begins
from Tulcea, either by public transportation or with private
All Around Romania: Practical listings 23

All around Romania — practical listings


Brașov Kronwell Hotel TEA HOUSE & CAFES
a7 Gării Blvd. t+40368 730 800
ACCOMMODATION wwww.kronwell.com Café de Paris
A four-star hotel, including a a56 Republicii St.
Ambient Guesthouse conference room for 650 and a t+40742 479 563
a62 Iuliu Maniu Blvd. spa and wellness center.  fb.com/cafedeparisbv
t+40368 405 522
wwww.pensiuneambient.ro RESTAURANTS Ceai Et Caetera
This guesthouse is located near a15 Latină St. t+40724 302 737
Hotel Ambient and offers qual- Casa Hirscher wwww.ceaietc.ro
ity services and free high-speed a12-14 Piața Sfatului Non-smoking venue, with a very
internet access. Many tourists are t+40268 410 533 pleasant atmosphere.
drawn here by the relaxed atmo- wwww.casahirscher.ro
sphere and good-value prices. Excellent food in a very downtown Colaj Café
location. a2 Hirscher Apollonia St.
Armatti Hotel t+40725 974 152
a5 Lungă St. t+40368 443 200 Ceasu’ Rău  fb.com/ColajCafe
wwww.armatti.ro a56 Iuliu Maniu St.
New 30-room hotel in Brașov city t+40268 476 670 Festival 39
center, standing for comfort and wwww.sergianagrup.ro a62 Republicii St.
functionality. The best mici in town, we’ve been told. t+40743 339 909
wwww.festival39.com
Bella Muzica Keller Steak House
a19 Piața Sfatului a2 Apollonia Hirscher St. PUBS & CLUBS
t+40268 477 946 t+40268 472 278
wwww.bellamuzica.ro wwww.kellersteakhouse.ro Formula Pub
Located in a 400-year-old building Located in the historical center a29 Eroilor Blvd.
with neo-classical architectural of Brașov, in a building dating t+40268 414 113
features, this hotel has a popular from the late 1400s, it serves wwww.formulapub.ro
restaurant serving Mexican, beef, chicken, fish, pork and lamb This pub has a formula racing
Hungarian and international specialties. The wine list boasts simulator inside.
specialties. over 100 varieties.
For Sale Pub
Casa Rozelor Poarta Șchei 4 a24, 15 Noiembrie Blvd.
a20 Michael Weiss St. a4 Poarta Șchei St. t+40788 758 582
t+40268 475 212 t+40743 236 733  fb.com/For-SALE-PUB
wwww.casarozelor.ro wwww.poartaschei4.ro
This hotel is located in a 15th Small bistro downtown, near Publick
century building in the historical Sfatului Square. a1 Republicii St. t+40730 273 842
center of Brașov, which carries the  fb.com/publick.cafe
National Cultural Heritage status. Sergiana
It is quiet, very clean and chic. a28 Mureșenilor St. ENTERTAINMENT
t+40268 419 775
Casa Wagner wwww.sergianagrup.ro Equus Silvania
a5 Piața Sfatului This venue is a must for tradi- a507210 Șinca Nouă village
t+40727 800 367 tional Romanian food and music. t+40740 185 583
wwww.casa-wagner.ro Wearing traditional Transylvanian wwww.equus-silvania.com
This hotel can be found in Brasov’s costumes, the staff serve home- This horse riding center and
central Piața Sfatului and some of made bread and pork crackling guest-house close to Brașov
the rooms have a view towards the with red onion. is perfect for an active family
Black Church (Biserica Neagră). weekend.
24 City Compass

Paradisul Acvatic Unirea Shopping Center Walking Tours —


a2F-2G Griviței Blvd. a3A Gării Blvd. Redescoperă Sinaia
t+40268 440 070 t+40268 301 030 ext. 101 eoffice@redescoperasinaia.ro
wwww.paradisulacvatic.ro wwww.unireashop.ro etours@citycompass.ro
This is a large recreational
complex, with modern indoor and Stâna Regală
outdoor pools, Jacuzzi, sauna, Sinaia t+40726 764 262
solarium, massage center, beauty wwww.stanaregala.ro
salon, and water slides. ACCOMMODATION It underwent refurbishing works
this year and reopened at the
Parc Aventura Piatra Șoimului Complex  beginning of September.
a16Bis Paltinului St. a10C Gârbovei St.
t+40755 085 555 t+40244 310 302 SHOPPING
wwww.parc-aventura.ro wwww.piatrasoimului.ro
The park offers 100 different Angst
routes among the trees at different Villa Poem Boem   a20 Republicii St.
heights, depending on the chosen aCumpătu Residential Area t+40244 312 251
route. t+40723 347 103 Fresh meat and cold cuts.
t+40722 687 936
Wolf Park Adventure evilla@poemboem.com Billa
aBrazilor St., Zărnești wwww.poemboem.com a41 Carol I Blvd.
t+40786 226 500 Enjoy an exclusive retreat in
wwww.wolfparkadventure.ro Sinaia at PoemBoem Villa and Mega Image
Adventure park featuring four feel the refreshing air of the a33 Carol I Blvd.
progressively difficult tracks and mountains in the peaceful garden
six tyrolean traverses. with spring water. Indoor you Penny Market
will be charmed by the warm aCalea Prahovei FN
SHOPPING spirit of the villa, the beautiful This budget supermarket is suit-
decoration, fire place, sauna and able for larger purchases.
Republicii & Mureșenilor St. high quality amenities. Perfect
Republicii is the main pedestrian city getaway for families and EATING & DRINKING
street of the old center. It features romantic escapades!
a surprising amount of shoe, Kuib Restaurant  
clothing, accessories, and book Hotel International a10C Gârbovei St., Cumpătu
stores. Most shopping places are a1 Avram Iancu St. t+40732 127 737
to be found on these two streets. t+40344 403 841 wwww.kuib.ro
You will also find ATMs, pharma- wwww.international-sinaia.ro
cies and banks there. We would avoid the big hotels Cucina Sofia
in Sinaia as they don’t match a1 Avram Iancu St.
Coresi Shopping Resort the spirit of the city. For larger t+4086 511 726
a1 Zaharia Stancu St. groups, however, you might have wwww.cucinasofia.ro
t+4021 367 2168 to consider them.
wwww.coresibrasov.ro Ramayana Cafe
ENTERTAINMENT a19 Carol I Blvd.
Eliana Mall t+40747 178 323
a2 Bazaltului St. Peleș Castle wwww.ramayana.ro
t+40751 018 922 a2 Peleșului St. Indian-themed cafe and tea house
wwww.eliana-mall.ro t+40244 310 918 wwww.peles.ro in Sinaia

Magnolia Shopping Center George Enescu Memorial


a18 Crișului St. House
t+40268 317 000 a2 Yehudi Menuhin St.
wmagnoliacenter.ro t+40244 311 753
wwww.georgeenescu.ro
All Around Romania: Practical listings 25

Other mountain Located in the Cantacuzino Castle,


it offers French cuisine all year
wwww.hotelorizont.ro
Romanian traditional Restaurant
resorts round. and winery, Miorița, has been in-
augurated in the fall of 2011. The
Cantacuzino Castle concept that we are proposing is
Arieșeni a1 Zamora St. t+40737 299 464 the Romanian traditional cuisine
Iara wwww.cantacuzinocastle.com combined with a spectacular
t+40735 884 469 The castle is open for visitors and design for the refined and
wwww.pensiuneaiara.ro guests all year round and can be modern guest, identified by us as
booked for private events. being the special Hotel Orizont
Azuga Predeal guest.
Il Picollo Castello
Bio Boutique Hotel Club a33 Victoriei St. t+ 40766 332 465 Casa Dunărea
Austria a31 Panduri St.
a12 Primăverii St., Poiana Câmpina t+40268 456 222
Țapului t+40244 323 345 wwww.casadunarea.ro
wwww.clubaustria.ro Iulia Hașdeu Museu
a199 Carol I Blvd., Câmpina Predeal Confort Suites
Lux Garden Hotel t+40244 335 599 a33, 3 Brazi St.
a10 Sorica St. t+40372 057 100 wwww.muzeulhasdeu.ro t+40268 455 795
wwww.luxgardenhotel.ro wwww.predeal-hotel.ro
This is a five-star hotel close to Doftanei Valley
the Sorica ski slope. Ursulețul
Atra Doftana a35 Vasile Alecsandri St.
Bran – Moeciu – Rucăr a780b Fundătura Cerbului St., t+40268 456 456
Valea Doftanei, Teșila Village wwww.ursuletul.ro
Casa din Bran t+40735 020 110
a367A Gen Moșoiu St., Bran wwww.atradoftana.ro Rânca
t+40268 236 557 Beautiful design, great view to the
wwww.casadinbran.ro lake and a gourmet restaurant. Cabana Transalpina
aTransalpina High Alt. Road, km 34
Conacul Boieresc Predeal t+40765 959 220
a1 Balaban St., Bran – Simon  fb.com/CabanaTransalpina
t+40728 997 727 Hotel Orizont Predeal 
wwww.conacul-boieresc.ro a6 Trei Brazi St. Piatra Râncii
eoffice@hotelorizont.ro aTransalpina High Altitude Road
Floare de Măceș Farm t+40 268 455 150 t+40747 529 698
aGlăjăriei Valley, Bran t+40 268 455 473
t+40773 324 079 wwww.hotelorizont.ro Vatra Dornei
Hotel Orizont welcomes you with
La Maison 139 four-star rooms, a modern Domeniul Dornei
a42 Ciubotea St., Bran SPA, Orizont Forum Conference a170, Dorna Arini
t+40733 662 647 Center, Orizont Restaurant with t+40733 663 648
wwww.pensiunealamaison.com international cuisine, Miorița wwww.domeniuldornei.ro
Restaurant with traditional
Bușteni Romanian cuisine together Hotel Dorna
with a winery, 4 bars with a a5A Tudor Vladimirescu St.
Casa Sara distinguished architecture and a t+40230 370 038
a7 Urlătoarei St. cigar club. wwww.hoteldorna.ro
t+40729 255 900
Miorița Restaurant   Le Baron
Canta Cuisine a6 Trei Brazi St. aDorna Arini
Restaurant t+40268 455 150 t+40230 576 082
a1 Zamora St. t+40244 320 520 t+40268 455 473 wwww.complexturisticlebaron.ro
wwww.cantacuzinocastle.ro erestaurant@hotelorizont.ro
26 City Compass

La Bella Vista one is located between Mamaia Vama Veche


a576A Poiana Negrii and Năvodari.
t+40728 878 988 Many people prefer to stay with the
wwww.labellavista.ro DISCOS & FUN locals, in their homes. Below we list
several accommodation units.
Pensiunea Poiana Crema Summer Club
a545 Poiana Pietrei, Poiana t+40755 996 600 ACCOMMODATION
Negrii t+40745 809 234 wsummerclub.crema-cafe.ro
wwww.pensiuneapoiana.ro Club D’Or
Crazy Beach a15 Ion Creangă St.
Poiana Izvoarelor t+40726 676 666 t+4043 335 114 wclubdor.ro
a80 Popeni St. t+40746 228 990 wwww.crazy.com.ro
wpensiuneapoianaizvoarelor.ro Restaurant, club and terrace on Hotel Jakuzzi
the beach, all very popular. a5 Meduzei St.
Waldhaus t+40723 068 082
a82A Colăcelul St. Ego Club Mamaia wwww.hoteljakuzzi.ro
t+40723 465 241 t+40726 202 272 wegoclub.ro
wwww.waldhaus.ro Hotel Laguna
Fratelli Beach & Club a1 Midiei St. t+40722 372 004
Mamaia Nord wwww.corsarulvamaveche.ro
Seaside t+40725 510 000
wfratelli.ro/clubs/fratelli-beach- Marina Park
Mamaia club a12 Nichita Stănescu St.
t+40772 269 844
ACCOMMODATION Le Gaga Mamaia wwww.marinapark.ro
t+40729 534 242 wlegaga.ro This is a compound with a motel,
Blue Beach a camping area (for tents and
a6 Aleea Lamia Oha Beach caravans) and a restaurant.
t+40770 897 858 t+40748 130 471
 fb.com/OhaBeach Maris
Hotel Vega a12A Ion Creangă St.
t+40241 607 607 ENTERTAINMENT t+40728 592 273
wwww.hotelvega.ro wwww.maris-vamaveche.ro
This is a five-star hotel, the most Aqua Magic water park
expensive in Mamaia and indeed a334 Mamaia Blvd. Pura Vida Hostel
the whole Romanian coast. It has t+40241 831 183 t+40786 055 288
its own private beach, a gym and wwww.aqua-magic.ro  fb.com/PuraVidaBeachHostel
offers the possibility of arriving by The hostel also organizes bus
helicopter. RESTAURANTS transport from Bucharest to Vama
Veche — the only such bus that
Hotel Iaki Rapana we know of which connects Vama
t+40241 831 025 wwww.iaki.ro aMamaia, Mamaia Beach Veche to the capital.
This is a four-star hotel owned t+40722 255 522 wrapana.ro
by Romanian football player Sandalandala Camping
Gheorghe Hagi. The hotel has its IpaNera t+40754 071 131
own beach and an indoor spa, as aMamaia Beach wwww.sandalandala.ro
well as a conference center. t+40730 013 333 wipanera.ro This was recommended as a cool
place, including a lounge bar.
Hotel Phoenicia Luxury La Fattoria
a1 Mamaia Nord, Km 2, DC 86, aMamaia Seafront Tagoo Vama Veche
Năvodari t+40735 005 050 t+40729 994 993 a16 Albatros St.
wwww.en.phoeniciaholiday.ro wwww.lafattoria.ro t+40728 592 273
Another four-star hotel, owned by  fb.com/Tagoo
the Phoenicia group, which has a
chain of hotels in Bucharest. This
All Around Romania: Practical listings 27

RESTAURANTS Gura Portiței Danube Delta


Amphora Eden TRANSPORT
a36 Falezei St. t+40751 266 570 t+40722 555 645
Restaurant, café & beach bar. wwww.guraportitei.ro Augustina Trans
This is a compound of villas on a242A Calea Plevnei, Bucharest
Bibi Bistro a small island surrounded by a28 Portului St., Tulcea
aIon Creangă/Ștefan cel Mare St. Golovița lake. t+40743 334 840
t+40722 191 366 waugustina.autogari.ro
wwww.bibibistro.ro Eforie Nord The route by car is Bucharest–Slo-
bozia–Țandărei–Hârșova–Tulcea.
Cherhana Vama Veche ACCOMMODATION
aOn the beach t+40743 335 805 Navrom Delta Tulcea
This one is just by the beach and Astoria a26 Portului St., Tulcea
has always been highly recom- a9 Tudor Vladimirescu St. t+40240 511 553
mended. Always fresh fish, simple t+40241 743 490 wwww.navromdelta.ro
dishes and a ‘must try’ landmark wwww.astoria-eforie.ro
in Vama Veche. ACCOMMODATION
Europa Hotel & Spa
Lyana Vama Veche a13 Republicii Blvd. Green Village Resort 
aFalezei St. t+40722 671 213 t+40241 741 710 aSfântu Gheorghe, Danube Delta
 fb.com/LyanaVamaVeche ereservation-hoteleuropa@ ereservations@greenvillage.ro
anahotels.ro Located in Sfântu Gheorghe, the
Povestea Ceaunului place where the Danube meets
t+40752 037 148 ENTERTAINMENT the Black Sea, the four-star
 fb.com/terasapovesteaceaunului Green Village Resort can mean
Ana Aslan Health Spa both a holiday by the Black Sea
2 Mai a13 Republicii St. shore and a getaway in the heart
t+40241 702 840 of the fascinating Danube Delta
ACCOMMODATION eanaaslan-spa@anahotels.ro – one of the wildest and beautiful
places in Europe, that combines
Camping La Rulote Ana Yacht Club relaxation and comfort with
t+40724 196 505 aOn the beach facing the Europa adventure and wildlife.
wwww.camping2mai.ro Hotel
Cormoran Complex
RESTAURANTS SCUBA DIVING aUzlina village, Murighiol
t+40744 656 372
Micul Golf The best places for scuba diving wwww.cormoran.ro
t+40748 221 843 are at Cap Midia, in Eforie Sud,
Restaurant & accommodation on Costinești, Olimp, Mangalia and Delta Nature Resort
the beach. Vama Veche, and on shipwrecks a2 Șoseaua Parcheșului, Somova
near Constanța, Mangalia and t+40737 507 683
Vadu Capul Tuzla. wwww.deltaresort.com
A five-star resort with 30 villas,
RESTAURANTS Respiro Dive Center 12 of which overlook the Somova
aMamaia, Club Mediteranean lake. The outdoor pool also
Vadu Pescarilor t+40726 483 483 overlooks the lake.
t+40728 531 855 wwww.respirodive.ro
 fb.com/VadulPescarilor EcoTourism Delta
Very hard to reach; drive for 20 Paradis Land Neptun a180 Bis, Crișan village
km from Năvodari to Corbu, then aAleea Plopilor, Neptun – Man- t+40744 957 148
at the exit in Corbu turn right, galia t+40756 166 611 wwww.ecoturismdelta.ro
drive 6 km on quite a bad road. wwww.paradisland.ro B & B run by Petre & Caroline
Pirate-themed adventure park. Vasiliu.
28 City Compass

Bucharest
Practical
Handbook
on
h e f u ll editi
T es:
includ

ʡʡ A quick look at all of Bucharest’s neighborhoods


ʡʡ The bustling Old Town
ʡʡ The expat choice — the Northern Pipera area
ʡʡ A walk downtown Bucharest — main highlights
ʡʡ On Romanian food & Bucharest restaurants by an
expat foodie
ʡʡ Opportunities for expat spouses
ʡʡ Bucharest for families with kids
ʡʡ Transport essentials — in & out of Bucharest
ʡʡ At home — an insider’s tips
ʡʡ Bucharest shopping spree — the fundamentals
ʡʡ Settling down in Romania — migration & tax rules
ʡʡ Practical listings directory
Bucharest Practical Handbook 29

A stroll through Bucharest’s neighborhoods


By Bogdan Popa
neighbor across the street. Drumul Taberei district begins
nearby — one of the largest in Bucharest, consisting mainly

L
et’s take a ride on tram number 41. It connects Piața of blocks of flats, carefully planned with lots of green space
Presei Libere (Free Press Square) with Ghencea between them. The name comes from the military camp set
Stadium — the North with the West of Bucharest. up during the 1821 revolution against the Ottoman-imposed
The full ride goes through Giulești, Crângași, Militari and Princes of Wallachia. Continuing towards Drumul Taberei
Drumul Taberei neighborhoods. When boarding the tram district by tram 41 leads to the new Sf. Vineri Church, one
at Piața Presei Libere, remember that the huge building of the newest and largest in Bucharest. Finally, at the end
called Casa Presei Libere (House of the Free Press) was built of the line is Ghencea stadium, Steaua Bucharest’s train-
in the 1950s. It neighbors the Bucharest Exhibition Center ing base. Ferentari is perhaps not a place to recommend to
(Romexpo), built on the spot of the former hippodrome, the average tourist, while the nearby Rahova district has a
and the wonderful Herăstrău Park. similar reputation, albeit not entirely deserved. Viilor (the
Soon after leaving the departure terminal, tramway 41 vineyard district) harks back to the days when wine-making
crosses Grant Bridge. Originally built out of wood, connect- was one of the area’s main businesses. Bellu Cemetery (the
ing the northern districts built in the 1920s and the 1930s, biggest in Bucharest) is currently its main attraction and is
until 2011 Grant Bridge was the only connection between part of Romania’s collection of national heritage buildings.
two parts of the city divided by railway tracks. While on the Next to Bellu, the Tineretului district — a quiet, pleas-
bridge, take a look at the football stadium on the right, the ant area — is centered around the park of the same name.
veritable temple of the Giulești district. Looking right, the Once there, try to locate the Dâmbovița River. Follow the
new bridge over the railroad and the student dormitories river in order to get to the new National Library, recently
in Grozăvești are visible. Giulești was originally a village, inaugurated. The building, planned in the 1980s and nearly
integrated into the municipality of Bucharest in the 1950s, finished in 1990, was then abandoned for almost 20 years.
to create space for new buildings and green areas. Blocks of Close to it, the church built by Bucur, a shepherd and the
flats were built, but some streets in Giulești are still full of legendary founder of Bucharest, is squeezed between office
small family houses. Most of the people who live there were buildings and blocks of flats. Keep walking to reach Piața
Romanian Railways (CFR) employees. Unirii, with its bright view of the Parliament Palace. Climb
Crângași, the district which begins at the end of Grant the hill to the 17th Century Patriarchy Church, packed with
Bridge, is also a ‘new’ addition to Bucharest. It consists believers during religious celebrations.
mainly of blocks of flats. The open-air market, one of the On reaching Piața Constituției (Constitution Square),
most famous in Bucharest, was modernized, and more than stick to the river and give Cotroceni district a chance: quiet
just fruits and vegetables can be found here. Lacul Morii streets lined with beautiful 19th and early 20th century vil-
(Mill Lake) lies to the right, which prevents the Dâmbovița las. Most streets bear the name of famous doctors.
River from flooding Bucharest. Many legends surround it Then take bus 104 from Unirii Square to reach the Na-
— a former cemetery for the plague victims of 1813 — but tional Arena (Arena Națională). Pantelimon was the home
locals still like taking an afternoon walk. of Bucharest hip-hop. Its neighbor, the district of Colentina,
After leaving Morii Lake on the right and catching a was named after the river that flows through the area. In
glimpse of the Parliament Palace on the left, the 41 reaches neighboring Fundeni, try finding the Fundenii Doamnei
Militari district. The area used to be inhabited mostly by church, an extraordinary example of oriental architecture.
members of the military — militari means ‘soldiers’. It fea- Vatra Luminoasă mixes interesting old streets and blocks
tures a combination of large blocks of flats with houses and of flats. This was originally a settlement built as a chari-
villas. It is a very populated and animated area, so expect a table donation to the visually impaired. Buying some fresh,
lot of small shops and a few cheap open-air markets. The cheap and organically-grown vegetables at the Obor market
Militari district is home to one of the most interesting and would make a nice end to the trip.
vivid theaters in Bucharest: the Masca theater, famous for Back north, Floreasca, Primăverii, Domenii and Kiseleff
public space performances and wonderful displays of com- districts are greener areas, with more villas and houses than
media dell’arte. Breaking the journey at Lujerului Under- blocks of flats, and a lot of interesting corners and side
pass and taking a left onto Iuliu Maniu Boulevard leads streets. Property in these areas are sought after by many
to the campus of the Politechnical University of Bucha- people, due in part to the child-friendly parks. At the in-
rest. On the other side of the street, the famous APACA tersection between Domenii and Kiseleff, the Arcul de Tri-
textile factory still stands. The Presidential Palace is umf overlooks the rugby stadium and Herăstrău park. Just
next in line, with the Bucharest Botanical Garden as its- where we started our stroll!
30 City Compass

Old Town: a miniature of the


unexpected & developing Romania
By Andrei Chirileasa, updates by Simona Fodor
the cafe you choose, there’s a building that looks like a ruin.
Sometimes it even happens that pieces of debris fall from
Nowhere is Romania’s fast, yet very uneven buildings at random. No serious accident has ever hap-
development more visible than in Bucharest’s Old pened, but you should still be careful around such places.
There’s still a long way to go until Bucharest’s Old
Town (or ‘Centrul Vechi’), a 15-hectare area in the
Town is ‘polished’ like those of other European capitals,
very heart of the country’s capital, where more but progress is visible every year. New restaurants, pubs
than a hundred restaurants, cafes, pubs, clubs and and shops appear, some of them featuring really nice decor,
shops have appeared in the last five years. some serving really good food, and others being known for
their live music and relaxing atmosphere.

S
omeone who last visited Bucharest some ten or The whole area is very competitive, and the venues
fifteen years ago will definitely be in for a big surprise which don’t make a success of themselves straight away
when re-visiting the area. Instead of the old, ruined quickly disappear, making space for others — hence the
buildings that used to flank Lipscani street, one can now dynamism of the place (and a disclaimer for the listings
find newly renovated buildings, inviting bars, stylish which follow — the info here was valid in September 2015
restaurants and laid-back terraces, with lots of people when this section was written).
drinking their morning coffees, afternoon beers or evening Old Town lives at a fast pace. We have spent plenty
cocktails, or just strolling around the area, soaking up the of time there and highlighted the places that caught our
atmosphere. attention the most. There is, of course, more for you to
The place is very lively, truly the beating heart of Bu- discover on site!
charest, but may also become a bit tiring if you’re not a fan
of being surrounded by crowds of people. But no worries, Andrei Chirileasa is Editor-in-Chief and
there’s always a quiet terrace or a nice cozy bar where you partner at Romania-Insider.com and City
can take refuge and sip a glass of wine or have a nice meal. Compass Media. He is a business journalist, with
But don’t expect it to be perfect. Bucharest’s Old Town is over 10 years of experience, and worked with
nothing like anything you’ve seen in Western European cap- Ziarul Financiar until the spring of 2014, when
itals, where everything is in place. It is still a work in prog- he decided to go entrepreneurial. He is also a
foodie and enjoys cooking.
ress, like much of Romania. So don’t be surprised if, near
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Old Town 31

RESTAURANTS wwww.calif.ro Divan


Very good kebabs, as well as other a46–48 Franceză St.
There are restaurants catering to all oriental delights. Some really nice t+40213 123 034
tastes in Old Town and they could fill new recipes for those who want to wwww.thedivan.ro
an entire guidebook themselves. The eat healthier food. Turkish restaurant, lounge and cafe.
following, among which are some
of our favorite places, are listed in City Grill Covaci Dristor Kebab
alphabetical order. a19 Covaci St. a17 Franceză St.
t+40729 626 262 t+40213 155 540
Aubergine Healthy Food wwww.citygrill.ro wwww.dristorkebab.ro
a33 Smârdan St. This is a place with a simple menu The most famous kebab place
t+4021 313 7922 and affordable prices, for quick in Bucharest, initially opened in
wwww.aubergine-restaurant.ro lunches or dinners. The one on Dristor neighborhood, and now
A Mediterranean menu and a Covaci, which is located in the with a location in Old Town too.
focus on healthy food. opposite part of Old Town, is new Deliveries and take-away also
and also nice. available.
Barză Viezure Mînz
a21 Șepcari St. City Grill Lipscani Gyros Thessalonikis
t +40783 416 626 a12 Lipscani St. a2 Gabroveni St.
w fb.com/barzaviezureminz t+40729 626 262 t+40762 646 269
Must visit delicatessen shop wwww.citygrill.ro wwww.gyros-thessalonikis.ro
and take-out restaurant with
traditional Romanian products. Caru’ cu Bere Hanul lui Manuc
a5 Stavropoleos St. a62–64 Franceză St.
Bel Mondo t+40213 137 560 t+40213 131 411
a6 Covaci St. wwww.carucubere.ro wwww.hanulluimanuc.ro
t+40725 966 636 This is one of the favorite tourist This complex includes several
wwww.restaurantbelmondo.ro spots. It is almost always crowded, restaurants, some facing Unirii
Italian cuisine in a nicely so definitely worth booking in Square, while the main one has
renovated building in the new part advance. You will like the archi- an interior courtyard. It has been
of Old Town. tecture of the place — a historic recently renovated and is one of
building with an interesting story the famous, historic names in
Berăria Nenea Iancu to tell. Food portions are large Bucharest. The complex includes
a3 Covaci St. and there are plenty of Romanian a Lebanese restaurant and Cafe
t+40752 034 171 dishes on the menu. Manuc.
wwww.berarianeneaiancu.ro
The venue offers local-themed Chocolat Il Peccato
food and a varied range of a12A Calea Victoriei a30 Franceză St.
national and international beers. t+40213 149 245 t+40213 116 767
wwww.chocolat.com.ro wwww.ilpeccato.ro
Brauhaus Smardan Boutique restaurant, famous for A new Italian restaurant.
a39–41 Smârdan St. its desserts.
t+40725 523 081 Lacrimi și Sfinți
wwww.brauhaus.ro Crama Domnească a16 Șepcari St.
a13–15 Șelari St. t+40725 558 286
Burger Bar t+40758 333 000 wwww.lacrimisisfinti.com
aȘelari Passage wwww.cramadomneasca.net Romanian–inspired food (often)
t+40212 339 096 Good Romanian cuisine, large cooked and created by Romanian
wwww.burger-bar.ro portions, wine cellar and garden poet Mircea Dinescu. Very inter-
A new restaurant that serves great terrace during the summer. The esting interior and good food.
burgers. restaurant has a medieval feel.
Book a table in the basement and La Bonne Bouche
Califatul Șelari ask for a tour of the cellar. a30 Franceză St.
a19 Șelari St. t+40731 247 876
t+40748 161 845 wwww.labonnebouche.ro
32 City Compass

La Bulivar Micul Paris Bistro Trattoria Il Calcio


a14 Franceză St. a16 Smârdan St. a3 Stavropoleos St.
t+40720 619 050 t+40314 381 411 t+40720 667 766
wwww.labulivar.ro wwww.restaurantmiculparis.ro wwww.trattoriailcalcio.ro
The already famous Italian restau-
La Haleală Red Angus Steakhouse rant chain in Bucharest recently
a17 Șelari St. a56 Franceză St. opened one of its trattorias in Old
t+40721 332 211 t+40756 600 000 Town, on the former premises of
wwww.lahaleala.ro wwww.redangus.ro Negresco restaurant.
A fast food place with a large This restaurant lives up to the
range of kebabs. promise of its name: steaks from Vecchio 1812
Europe, the US and New Zealand. a16 Covaci St.
La Historia de Sudamerica t+40314309 578
a3 Sf. Dumitru St. Saray One of the oldest buildings in Old
t+40722 626 043 a21 Lipscani St. Town, built in 1812, hosts this
wwww.lahistoria.ro t+40733 135 834 elegant Italian restaurant. One of
Restaurant and pub in an 1850 wsaray-restaurant.ro our favorites.
building in Old Town. It features Turkish cuisine.
a menu with South American PASTRIES & ICE CREAM
influences. Cocktails and drinks Sector Gurmand
on the same theme. a52 Franceză St. Cremeria Emilia Romană
t+40733 722 126 a38 – 42 Franceză St.
La Mama wwww.sectorgurmand.ro t+40726 671 227
a1 Băcani St. (corner with  fb.com/cremeriaemilia
Lipscani) Sushi Ko
t+40725 526 262 a8 Stavropoleos St. La Delicii
wwww.lamama.ro t+40758 088 400 a5 Covaci St.
wwww.sushiko.ro t+40758 060 890
Latin Pizza Japanese cuisine in Old Town. wwww.ladelicii.ro
a34 IC Brătianu Blvd. Situated at the main junction of This is an ice-cream parlour.
t +40746 909 189 Stavropoleos and Smârdan streets
wwww.latinpizza.ro — hard to miss! La Folie Centrul Vechi
Pizzas the Italian way. Take away a13 Franceză St.
also possible. Taverna Racilor t+40746 582 528
a18 Smardan St. wwww.la-folie.ro
Marin Seafood Grill t+40758 880 270
a4 Gabroveni St. wtavernaracilor.ro CLUBS
t+40213 138 475
 fb.com/MarinSeafoodGrill The Artist Bordello’s
Fresh seafood cooked on a wood a13 Nicolae Tonitza St. a9-11 Șelari St.
stove in front of the customers. t+40728 318 871 t+40748 881 085
The healthy alternative to kebabs. wwww.theartist.ro wwww.bordellos.ro
A Dutch chef brings the experience One of the most popular and busi-
Meze Taverna of a modern, fusion restaurant est places in Old Town, with three
a6 Nicolae Tonitza St. to Bucharest. Try the ‘spoon floors and an adjacent restaurant,
t+4021 5395 353 tasting’: a spoon-sized version of offering parties every weekend
wwww.mezetaverna.ro all dishes. and different evening events
Greek restaurant with a fresh, during the week.
Mediterranean feel in its food as Trattoria Buongiorno
well as design. a52 Franceză St. Bound
t+40733 110 464 a30 Smârdan St.
Mica Elveție wwww.trattoriabuongiorno.ro t+40721 762 756
a60 Franceză St. wwww.bound.ro
t+40212 245 017
wwww.micaelvetie.ro
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Old Town 33

Cliché La Muse Barbero


a41 Smârdan St. a53 Lipscani St. a38 Lipscani St.
t+40729 056 254 t+40734 000 236 t+40767 508 080
wwww.clubcliche.ro wwww.lamuse.ro wwww.barbero.ro

Club A Maraboo Bazaar


a14 Blănari St. a12 Blănari St. a10 Covaci St.
t+40213 161 667 t+40740 111 550 t+40721 999 999
 fb.com/ClubA.Bucuresti wwww.maraboo.ro wwww.thebazaar.ro
This is a club with a history in
Bucharest, as it was opened Mojo Beer O’Clock
during the Communist period. It a14 Gabroveni St. a4 Gabroveni St.
plays mostly golden oldies and t+40760 263 496 t+40735 187 012
prices are aimed at students. wwww.mojomusic.ro wwww.beeroclock.ro
This seems to be the meeting All the beers you can dream of in
El Comandante Junior place for expats in Old Town. You one single bar.
a43 Lipscani St. will find a lot of British people
t+40728 555 043 hanging around. The venue orga- Berăria Siegfried
wwww.elcomandantejunior.ro nizes Karaoke evenings, comedy a29 Lipscani St.
One of several El Comandante evenings and quiz nights. t+40756 014 041
clubs in Bucharest, this is a small wwww.berariasiegfried.ro
club which plays good music. Old City
a14 Șelari St. Bernschutz Tea House
Finnish Cocktail & Club t+40729 377 774 a6 Ion Nistor St.
a28 Șelari St. wwww.oldcity-lipscani.ro t+40213 104 788
t+40753 578 209 You can either sit and drink tea or
wwww.finnish.ro Shoteria buy it to take home.
a17 Șelari St.
Fire t+40735 400 504 Bicicleta
a12 Gabroveni St. wshoteria.ro a2 Șelari St.
t+40732 166 604 As the name suggests, the venue t+40735 616 298
wwww.fire.ro is open for shots. A rendez vous place for creatives,
This is the place to go for rock and where all kinds of bicycle parts
indie music. Lots of live shows. The Tube have been used to create a unique
a30-34 Lipscani St. design.
Freddo t+40751 045 047
a24 Smârdan St. wwww.thetube.ro Bistro Carusel
t+40722 373 336 Live music, plenty of space. a55 Lipscani St.
wwww.freddo.ro t+40728 828 929
PUBS & CAFÉS wcarturesticarusel.ro
La Bonita
a24 Șelari St. 55 Jazz Biutiful
t+40758 660 500 a9 Franceză St. a6-8 Gabroveni St.
Mexican and Texan fast-food & t+40731 672 728 t+40737 297 297
club. wwww.55jazz.ro wwww.biutiful.ro
Designed like a sophisticated pub,
Laboratorul de Cocktailuri Argentin offering both food and drinks,
a8 Stavropoleos St. a11-13 Blănari St. Biutiful is one of the higher-end
t+40722 528 040 t+40213 528 963 places in Old Town, in terms of
Designed like an old pharmacy, A famous fast food and beer place both clientele and prices.
Laborator offers the young, hip which started out small, but
customer a wide selection of expanded over the years — it can Café Deko
cocktails, served in test tubes or be found across the street from a1 Covaci St.
chemistry beakers. Club A. t+40733 562 233
wwww.dekocafe.ro
34 City Compass

Curtea Berarilor Oktoberfest The Barrel


a9-11 Șelari St. a9-11 Șelari St. a27 Smârdan St.
t+40213 137 532 t+40724 333 233 t+40726 412 646
wwww.curteaberarilor.com wwww.oktoberfest-pub.ro wwww.thebarrel.ro
Music, beer and lots of space
D’Eight over several floors. They The Coffee Shop
a2-4 Franceză St. recently opened a new branch at 3 a5 Băniei St.
t+40721 333 533 Franceză St. t+40756 077 399
wwww.deight.ro wwww.caffea.ro
Orient Express This location of The Coffee Shop
Energiea a37 Smârdan St. chain is next to the Sf. Gheorghe
a4 Brezoianu St. t+40725 927 507 market. A varied range of coffees
t+40736 374 432 wwww.orientexpressbarbistro.ro is available and the staff can give
wwww.energiea.ro advice on brewing techniques.
Not in the main part of Old Town, Origo
but worth the short walk, this a9 Lipscani St. The Drunken Lords
self-proclaimed “urban experi- t+40757 086 689 a3-5 Nicolae Șelari Entr.
ment” is a meeting point for the wwww.origocoffee.ro t+40736 238 815
young and creative. Located slightly away from the wwww.thedrunkenlords.ro
main streets of Old Town, Origo is
Entourage the new meeting point for coffee The Elbow Room
a5-7 Eugen Carada St. lovers. a82A Lipscani St.
t+40736 661 016 t+40752 550 986
An urban-cool place with a good Sankt Petersburg Pub wwww.elbowroom.ro
selection of food and drinks. a55 Gabroveni St.
t+40729 191 855 The Embassy —
Godot Cafe Theater wwww.sanktpetersburgpub.ro Hanul cu Tei
a14 Blănari St. a63-65 Lipscani St.
t+40736 414 244 SanThe Fitoceainarie t+40733 500 303
wwww.godotcafeteatru.ro a104 Lipscani St. wwww.embassy-hanulcutei.ro
t+4021 528 0305
Halftime SportPub  fb.com/SanThe-Fitoceainarie The Vintage Pub
a14 Gabroveni St. Fairy-tale decor with a social a43 Smârdan St.
t+40768 585 148 purpose as the place employs t+40743 797 173
wwww.halftimepub.ro people at risk of social exclusion. wwww.thevintagepub.ro
The place for sports fans. Live Each product is priced RON 8.
matches. Tucano Coffee
Storage Room a79 Lipscani St.
Les Bourgeois a35 Smârdan St. t+40763 032 930
a20 Smârdan St. t+40726 093 737 wwww.tucanocoffee.ro
t+40720 132 994 wwww.storageroom.ro Various coffee specialties, deserts
wwww.lesbourgeois.ro Small and unconventional. and food.

Nomad Skybar St. Patrick Valea Regilor


a30 Smârdan St. a23-25 Smârdan St. a16-20 Calea Victoriei
t+40735 448 080 t+40755 110 008 t+40213 112 969
 fb.com/nomadskybar wwww.stpatrick.ro Valea Regilor is one of the best-
Irish pub and restaurant. known places for hookah pipes,
Oro Toro by Osho and serves a wide range of teas.
a38-42 Franceză St. The Bankers
t +40744 633 724 a15 Șelari St. Van Gogh
wwww.orotoro.ro t+40733 054 488 a9 Smârdan St.
American cuisine and burgers. This wwww.thebankers.ro t+40311 076 371
chain of restaurants also includes wwww.vangogh.ro
units in five Bucharest malls. This is a favorite spot, but mainly
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Old Town 35

for those who smoke; close to the Hircus Just a few steps away from Old
center of Old Town but on a quiet a43 Lipscani St. Town. It has a nice view over
street, Van Gogh includes a coffee  fb.com/hircus.ro Bucharest’s city center.
shop, cafe, wine bar and meeting/ Gift shop retailing a variety of
training space for hire on the top cashmere, silk and wool scarves Little Bucharest Hostel
floor. and clothing, diaries and various a15 Smârdan St., 2nd Fl.
meditation-practice items. t+40786 055 287
WINE SHOPS & BARS wwww.littlebucharest.ro
Souvenir Shop This is part of the Pura Vida
Abel’s Wine Bar a13 Smârdan St. Hostel chain. It is an artist’s
a10 Nicolae Tonitza St. t+40213 103 225 vintage house in the middle of Old
t+40371 033 643 wwww.souvenir-shop.com.ro Town, with a nice view of the area.
wwww.abelswinebar.ro This shop can be found near Hotel
New wine shop on one of Old Rembrandt. Pura Vida Sky Bar & Hostel
Town’s less crowded streets. a7 Smârdan St.
The Souvenir Shop t+40786 329 133
Dyonisos a24 Franceză St. wsky.puravidahostels.ro
a19 Șepcari St. t+40724 089 737 Sky-bar and hostel part of the
t+40723 655 156 wwww.multesimarunte.ro Pura Vida independent local
wdionysos.bar hostels network, opened in 2015.
This shop used to be ran by Beros THEATERS
& Van Schaik, but was acquired Rembrandt Hotel (3*)
and re-branded in the fall of 2014. De pe Lipscani Theater a11 Smârdan St.
a53 Lipscani St. t+40213 139 315
Bruno t+40734 000 236 wwww.rembrandt.ro
a3 Covaci St. wwww.teatruldepelipscani.ro
t+40757 557 291 Independent theater company ‘Z’ Executive Boutique
wwww.brunowine.ro with a varied repertoire. Hotel (4*)
Nice little wine bar, with a cozy a4 Ion Nistor St.
atmosphere and friendly staff. Passe Partout Theater t+40731 699 971
Company wwww.zhotels.ro
Corks Cozy Bar a53 Lipscani St. (Rapsodia Hall) This hotel is located on a small
a1 Băcani St. t+40213 158 980 street at the edge of Old Town, and
t+4021 3112 265 wwww.passe-partoutdp.ro close to Universitate Square. It has
wwww.corks.ro/en The best choice if you do not un- a good view over the center.
New wine bar with a large selec- derstand Romanian. The theater
tion of Romanian and interna- features pantomime shows. SHOPPING
tional wines, as well as snacks
and meals. HOTELS Adidas Outlet
a76 Lipscani St.
Wine & Company Europa Royale (4*) t+40213 104 075
a28 Lipscani St. a60 Franceză St.
t+40212 502 072 t+40213 191 798 Bizon Shoe Shop
a18 Smârdan St. wwww.groupeuropa.com a41 Lipscani St.
t+40213 104 140 On the edge of Old Town. t+40213 155 410
wwww.wineandcompany.ro
Hotel Cișmigiu (4*) Cărturești Carusel
SOUVENIRS & GIFTS a38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd. a55 Lipscani St.
t+ 40314 030 500 t+4021 317 3459
Art Souvenirs wwww.hotelcismigiu.ro wcarturesticarusel.ro
a52 Lipscani St. Very close to Old Town. Hip book & music store opened
t+40724 550 780 in February 2015 in an revamped
wwww.artsouvenirs.ro Intercontinental Hotel (5*) iconic building in Old Town. Good
a4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. selection of English-language
t+40213 102 020 titles.
36 City Compass

Carrefour Express If you want to experience the D&M


a54 Franceză St. feeling of shopping in the old a60 Franceză St.
One of the few supermarkets in Bucharest of the Communist Era, t+40374 293 234
Old Town, opened next to Red then you might find a visit here wwww.dm-drogeriemarkt.ro
Angus Steakhouse. interesting.
Plafar
Cocor Yves Rocher a24 Lipscani St.
a29-33 I.C. Brătianu Blvd. a22 Smârdan St. t+40730 110 132
t+40213 131 403 t+40213 192 944 wwww.plafar.net
wwww.cocor.ro wyves-rocher.com/ro This pharmacy sells natural
Just across the street from Old products, homeopathic remedies
Town. You can’t miss it due to BANKS and traditional medicines.
the large advertising façade. It
accomodates some Romanian Banca Transilvania Sensiblu
designers’ shops, a Subway res- a102 Lipscani St. a12 A Calea Victoriei
taurant and a Billa supermarket. t+40214 072 360 t+40213 153 160
wwww.bancatransilvania.ro wwww.sensiblu.com
H&M
a30-34 Lipscani St. BCR CULTURE &
t+40314 052 450 a14-16 Doamnei St. ENTERTAINMENT
wwww.hm.com/ro t+40213 149 940
This is the flagship store for H&M wwww.bcr.ro Curtea Veche Palace
in Bucharest. It covers three a21-23 Franceză St.
floors and includes an H&M home BRD
department. a14 Lipscani St. Gabroveni Inn
t+40213 178011 a84-90 Lipscani St.
Lashez wwww.brd.ro Historic building, recently
a26 Smârdan St. renovated. It hosts cultural events
a57 Lipscani St. CEC Bank and one of the headquarters of
Clothing shops. a18-22 Lipscani St. Arcub, the cultural center of the
t+40213 195 540 Bucharest City Hall.
Marelbo wwww.cec.ro
a73 Lipscani St. The Central Bank
Leather shoes at low prices. Garanti Bank a25 Lipscani St.
a43 Lipscani St. t+40213 130 410
Ollie Gang Shop t+40213 145 008 wwww.bnro.ro
a1 Blănari St. wwww.garantibank.ro
t +40726 543 128 National History Museum
wwww.olliegangshop.ro Piraeus Bank a12 Calea Victoriei
Urban lifestyle boutique. a12C Calea Victoriei t+40213 158 207
t+40213 117 069 wwww.mnir.ro
Unirea Shopping Center wwww.piraeusbank.ro
a1 Unirii Square Stavropoleos Monastery
t+40213 030 208 Raiffeisen Bank a4 Stavropoleos St.
wwww.unireashop.ro a90A Lipscani St. t+40213 134 747
Bucharest’s most central mall; t+40213 701 000 wwww.stavropoleos.ro
many fashion stores (Zara, H&M, wwww.raiffeisen.ro
New Yorker, Bershka), jewelry
shops, restaurants and fast food PHARMACIES &
outlets, plus a play center for kids, COSMETIC SHOPS
billiards and bowling (on the top
floor). Centrofarm
a24 Lipscani St.
Victoria Store t+40314 329 591
a17 Calea Victoriei wwww.centrofarm.ro
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Downtown 37

A walk downtown Bucharest


By Bogdan Popa Yet, from the intersection with Dacia Boulevard
you can also go straight ahead on Calea Victoriei. The
Museum of Art Collections — recently re-opened after a
Big, noisy, chaotic… well, it’s a capital city after long refurbishment — might be an interesting choice. As
all. But Bucharest — some two hundred years ago the street nears the National Museum of Art (the former
Royal Palace), notice the luxury shops which are scattered
nicknamed “the City of Joy” — has a lot of things
along the street.
to offer which can only be discovered on foot. You may want to spend some time in this area. The
Romanian Athenaeum was built as a conference hall

S
tart at Piața Victoriei  (Victory Square). Kiseleff in 1888, but it now hosts the Romanian Philharmonic
Park (named after the Russian general who oversaw Orchestra. Sometimes, if the musicians are not rehearsing,
the beginnings of modern Romania), which adjoins you can visit the main auditorium and the beautiful marble
the square, is very green and child-friendly. Three museums main hall. The statue of national poet Mihai Eminescu
are located there (Peasant, Natural History, Geology). Cross (1850-1859) stands in front of this beautiful landmark of
the square carefully and start walking on newly refurbished the city. The street behind the Athenaeum takes you to the
Calea Victoriei (Victory Street). It is one of Bucharest’s entrance of the University of Bucharest’s Central Library.
main streets — take a look at Cantacuzino Palace (the Like most of the buildings in the area, it was built in the
George Enescu Museum) to catch a glimpse of its former now lost gardens of the Romanian painter Theodor Aman’s
glory. Keep walking, past more glorious residences (the house. Now a museum with free entrance, this hidden jewel
Kotzebue and Vernescu palaces, for instance) — and you is worth a visit. Wondering about the garden? Take a look
will reach the Romanian Academy building. An option is at the owner’s paintings to help you imagine its tranquility.
now to turn left on Dacia Boulevard and, as you reach But tranquility is not the word for Revolution Square
Piața Romană  (Roman Square), to explore the area . In December 1989, heavy machine guns and tanks were
named Grădina Icoanei , with its elegant villas, twin heard there for several days. Try to imagine them occupying
parks and quirky cafes. the very spot where the equestrian statue of the first modern
38 City Compass

king of Romania, Carol I (1866-1914), stands today. On the


cold winter evening of 22nd of December 1989, both the
Library and the National Art Museum were set ablaze. It
took years to restore their former glory — but the process
was certainly worthwhile. The site of the action during the
1989 Revolution was no coincidence — the controversial
Memorial of the Revolution stands in front of the building
which hosted the Central Committee of Romania’s
Communist Party. Built in the 1940’s as the Ministry of
Internal Affairs, it serves its original purpose again today.
On the left-hand side of the building as you look at it,
another controversial structure makes you think about the
energies Bucharest has sometimes unleashed. From the
1
ruins of a villa destroyed in 1989, a glass and iron building
has sprung up. Like it or not, it is a powerful symbol.
Keep walking and, as Calea Victoriei crosses Ion
Câmpineanu Street, late 19th century buildings,
interwar Bauhaus and contemporary architecture meet
again — proof that the style of the buildings was always
a matter of personal choice in Bucharest. However,
keeping height and distance to the next building within
reasonable limits was a more important rule. Do not let
yourself be fooled by the fake entrance of the former
National Theatre : the hotel that stands here was 2
built in 2005 on the site of the former theatre, critically
damaged in an air raid in April 1944. 3
As you pass the Odeon Theatre, with the monument of
Kemal Ataturk in front of it, you come again to a crossroads.
The early 1900’s building of the Cercul Militar Național
 will certainly catch your attention.
Turn to the left and the University of Bucharest 4
(established in 1864) will be on your left side. In front of it,
statues of the founders of the modern educational system
may be seen — in the middle, however, is Mihai Viteazul
(1558–1601), the prince of Wallachia who inspired the 19th
century young, Western-minded and energetic elite of 5
Romania to build up the nation of today. The University 7
Square  might not be very impressive — but millions
of tears of joy and sadness were shed on that roundabout 8 6
during the 1989 Revolution…
At the crossroad between Calea Victoriei and Queen
Elisabeta Boulevard , turn to the right and you will
reach Cișmigiu Park. In front of it you can see the Bucharest 9
City Hall (in the so-called Romanian ‘eclectic’ style)
and the State Archive. Or, walk straight ahead, and Calea
Victoriei will take you into the Old Town of Bucharest —
also known as Lipscani after its main street. Take a minute
to look at the National Museum of History (the former
Central Post Office of Romania) and the buildings around
it. Old Town was an area of merchants and craftsmen, then
of banks and finance. Today it is the pedestrian area of
the city, dominated by coffee shops, bars and restaurants.
Time to chill and to reflect on a city which is truly one of a
kind. End your journey by admiring the old Stavropoleos
Convent  , one of the most beautiful places in Bucharest.
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Transport 39

Getting around, in and


out of Bucharest
Public transport The express bus system serves destinations outside the
city center. Two or 10-journey tickets, as well as monthly
The local public transport company called RATB (Regia passes, are available for these buses. For bus schedules and
Autonomă de Transport București) runs street-level trans- routes, visit www.ratb.ro — English section available. Use
portation in the Romanian capital — buses, trolleybuses Google Maps, which now offers information about public
and trams — and is a great way of getting around. Day buses transport in Bucharest, as well.
run from 5 AM to 11 PM, when some night buses take over.
Tickets must be purchased beforehand and validated upon
boarding. The system is a bit complicated and it requires Night buses
getting used to, even for Romanians.
The ticketing system uses plastic cards that can be Night transportation in Bucharest starts at 11 PM and buses
charged with any amount of money, resulting in the right arrive every 40 minutes from 11 PM to 1 AM and 3 AM to
to a certain number of journeys. One trip costs RON 1.3 on 4.30 AM, and every two hours between 1 AM and 3 AM.
Bucharest’s regular public transport, and RON 3.5 for Ex- The price of a trip is the same as during the day: RON 1.3,
press lines, such as the one connecting Bucharest Otopeni and all subscriptions for day buses work for night buses as
airport with downtown. The plastic cards can be recharged well. All the night buses — 25 such lines — have the letter N
either with a subscription if you travel frequently, or with in front of their number (N101, N102 and so on).
various amounts of money if you take a bus trip once in a
while. The same cards work on trams, buses and trolleys.
The card must be validated after boarding the bus using the BUS, TRAM & TROLLEY-BUS FARES
orange devices onboard, by keeping the card in front of the
orange machine for a few seconds, until it beeps. Any trans- ʡʡ One trip: RON 1.3
fer to another means of transport needs further validation. ʡʡ For 1 urban line: RON 30/month
40 City Compass

ʡʡ For 2 urban lines: RON 35/month SUBWAY FARES


ʡʡ For all urban lines: RON 50/month
ʡʡ For all urban lines, valid 1 day: RON 8 ʡʡ For 2 trips: RON 5
ʡʡ For all urban lines, valid 7 days: RON 17 ʡʡ For 10 trips: RON 20
ʡʡ For all urban lines, valid 15 days: RON 25 ʡʡ For unlimited trips: RON 8/day
ʡʡ For unlimited trips: RON 25/week
ʡʡ For unlimited trips: RON 70/month
Special tourist line Note: All these are paper cards.

You can buy paper cards from the operator at the metro
station or from one of the 35 automatic vending machines
installed across Bucharest metro stations. It is not possible
to use the RATB card on the metro system anymore — the
collaboration between the two independent transport com-
panies was suspended in the spring of 2014. In 2015, the
Bucharest subway operator announced plans to upgrade its
access system and introduce contactless cards.

Road network & traffic


in Bucharest
The main (and most congested!) boulevards are Calea
Victoriei, Ștefan cel Mare, Buzești, Unirii Blvd., and
Șos. Mihai Bravu. The traffic in Bucharest has however
improved since the opening of the 1.9 km Basarab flyover,
and more recently, with the Mihai Bravu flyover.
Driving in Bucharest is not the easiest task, although we
have heard of more hectic driving in other countries. Traffic
Red double-deckers carry tourists along the Bucharest City is a problem here. Some of the streets are also bad, so expect
Tour route. The buses serving this line run several times some potholes.
a day between 10:00 and 22:00 on the circuit Piața Presei The rush hours — mornings and the end of the work
Libere, Village Museum - Muzeul Satului, Arcul de Triumf, day — are sometimes impossible, while some routes are
Piața Victoriei, Calea Victoriei, People’s Palace - Palatul clogged with traffic all day — Splaiul Independenței, Calea
Parlamentului, Piața Unirii, Universitate, Piața Romană, Victoriei, Piața Unirii, Bălcescu Blvd. Magheru Blvd., Piața
Piața Victoriei, Piața Charles de Gaulle, Șoseaua Kiseleff Romană and Piața Victoriei. Sometimes drivers do not re-
and back to Piața Presei Libere (Piața means Square.) The spect traffic lights, nor do they see anything wrong with
route is 15.4 km long and should take 50 minutes, with driving off-road or parking on the pavement! The biggest
buses running every 15 minutes. The price of a ticket is RON challenge, apart from getting used to these in the first place,
25 (the equivalent of € 5.8) for adults and RON 10 (some €
2.2) for children up aged between 7 and 14. The transport
card can be bought on the bus and is valid for 24 h.

Subway
Metrorex manages the subway network and the system
operates between 05:00 and 23:30 daily. There are five
lines: M1, M2, M3, M4, and M5, and the most frequently
used is the north-south M2. Some of the most crowded
metro stations — especially in the morning and afternoon
rush-hours — are Unirii, Universitate and Victoriei, which
are also good meeting places.
Bucharest Practical Handbook: Transport 41

will be to stop yourself from doing the same after a while! takes your parking place, you can use the Romanian meth-
Avoid going from south to north during rush hours. Ex- od: honk your horn until they come and move their car. It
pect to hear a lot of honking while driving, especially dur- is surprisingly effective. If they do not come, or it happens
ing traffic jams. To check the state of traffic in Bucharest, more than once, lift up their windshield wipers: this will let
visit Google maps and use its Traffic feature for Bucharest. them know they are in the wrong spot!
It also shows traffic on the main highways in Romania.

Car towing
Taxis
Cars are parked almost everywhere, including on
It is harder and harder to find a cab in Bucharest by calling pavements, at pedestrian crossings, at bus stops, on corners
the individual cab companies, so try using one of the many and where “No Parking” signs are clearly posted! There
apps to order cabs — some of them are also in English, used to be a lot of confusion about car towing in recent
and all will detect your location with varying degrees of years, as it was enforced differently across Bucharest. Car
accuracy. This will help non-Romanian speakers order a towing was suspended in mid-2015 pending unified rules.
cab with ease, but will require setting up an account. Once
that happens, it’s pretty easy to order a cab, and you’ll be
able to find one pretty fast, in our experience. Most cab Accidents
drivers use only the app nowadays for picking up orders.
We’d recommend Clever Taxi and Star Taxi. Search them in The Romanian law requires the driver of any vehicle
your app store. involved in an accident to stop immediately at the scene
Starting 2015 an alternative to taxis is car-sharing ser- of the crash, and find out if anyone is hurt. If someone is
vice Uber. Uber’s starting rates are similar to those of most injured, call 112 right away and try to provide the injured
taxi companies in Bucharest but riders don’t have to pay in person all reasonable assistance, including transportation
cash or tip the driver as the app takes the money directly to a doctor or hospital. You must also report to a police
from the user’s credit card. station. For minor accidents, there is an option available
which does not involve the police, which is called
“constatare amiabilă” or “friendly resolution.” Your
Road tax insurance company will issue a form that you can use. If the
accident resulted in only material damages, you must go to
If you are moving to Romania with your car or are even just a Collision Damage Bureau to obtain repair permits, within
driving through, you have to pay the Romanian road tax, 24 hours of the crash.
which is called Rovinietă. The authorities will be able to
check electronically whether you have bought a Rovinietă
or not, as cameras have been installed at city exits. Getting out of Bucharest
The tax can be paid for a period of seven days (€3), thir-
ty days (€7) and one year (€28), and can be paid in RON at Most Romanians love to get out of Bucharest on weekends,
current exchange rates. Most gas stations sell the Rovinietă either to the seaside or to the mountains, depending on
— try Petrom and Rompetrol. the season. The most popular Bucharest exits are: the Sun
Highway in the east to go to the coast, the Bucharest–Ploiești
Highway to go north, and the DN1, also to the north, via
Parking Otopeni, which goes to Ploiești and the mountain resorts in
the Prahovei Valley. Another exit to the west on A1 Highway
Parking is one of the biggest issues in Bucharest. Most towards Pitești is the main road to western Romania, and an
office buildings and shopping centers have adequately alternative route for those heading to Transylvania.
sized parking lots, but the municipality itself does not offer The Romanian railway company CFR (Căile Ferate
many options. There are several public car parks however Române) provides a reliable and often scenic means of
— check the listings section of this guide. To park your transport to destinations outside Bucharest. Information
car near your home, the municipality offers the option of in English: cfrcalatori.ro, or m.cfrcalatori.ro. Alternatively,
renting parking places outside your building. After you several private railway operators run routes throughout the
have bought your parking place from the sector city hall, country.
you can mark it with your car registration number. For CFR, you can buy tickets in advance for all trains at
Avoid using someone else’s paid spot as they may dam- Bucharest’s main railway station (Gara de Nord). Visitors
age your car if you do so a couple of times in a row. People departing within 24 hours, however, must buy their tickets
tend to get very angry about this in Bucharest. If someone at the relevant train station, where queues can be long.
42 City Compass

Airport essentials
Taxis
The taxi fare from downtown Bucharest to the airport (or
the other way around) should be around RON 50 (less than
€10), depending on traffic. Make sure to take a cab with a
fare below RON 2 per km, which you will see written on its
door. They might try to convince you to pay them for their
trip back to the city, but you should not do this.
When arriving in Romania, use the official cab order-
ing device, which is multilingual and issues a ticket detail-
ing the cab company, cab number and estimated time of
arrival. Then wait for your cab in the area marked with two traffic. It departs Monday through Friday every 15 minutes
yellow flags outside the terminal. Alternatively, you can also and every 20 minutes during the weekend between 6.00
use the Black Cab service — details in the Transport listings and 20:00. At night, it runs every 45 minutes.
in this book. The fare is RON 7 for a magnetic card valid for two trips
and a monthly ticket costs RON 80. The cards can be pur-
Airport bus chased at the ticket counter in the Domestic Flights Hall.
Express Bus 783 departs round the clock from the Cards must be validated upon boarding the bus, using the
International Departures Hall at the airport, and the machines. Express Bus 780 goes to the main train station
journey to downtown Bucharest — Unirii Square — takes (Gara de Nord). The fee for one trip is about RON 3.5 and
approximately 40 minutes, or even more, depending on RON 27 for ten trips.

Feel at home
everywhere.
Whatever your needs might be:
 Conferences
 Management meetings and incentive trips
 Exclusive team building and team retreats
 VIP tours in Bucharest and Romania,
You can count on us for the sound organization
of corporate events.

tours@citycompass.ro +40 744 336 464 citycompass.ro


Bucharest Practical Handbook: Tax & Visa 43

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is part of
44 City Compass

Practical
Listings
Directory e f u ll edition
Th es:
In this chapter, you will find:
includ

ʡʡ Eating & Drinking, including:


ʡʡ Restaurants — by cuisine
ʡʡ Cafés & tea houses
ʡʡ Pubs & bars
ʡʡ Hotels & Travel
ʡʡ Legal & Business, including:
ʡʡ State offices & administrations
ʡʡ Local authorities
ʡʡ Tax & accounting
ʡʡ Education & Language Lessons
ʡʡ Public Transport, car rental & taxis
ʡʡ Shopping, including:
ʡʡ Traditional markets
ʡʡ All types of stores
ʡʡ Health Care, including hospitals, dentists & pharmacies
ʡʡ Fun & Entertainment
ʡʡ House & Home
ʡʡ Maternity & Children
ʡʡ Personal care & Development
ʡʡ Culture & Arts
ʡʡ Sports
Directory: Eating & Drinking 45

Eating & Drinking


Restaurants Champions – American wwww.peterskitchen.ro
Sports Bar and Restaurant Focused on British cuisine but also
For Old Town, check page 72, for a90 Calea 13 Septembrie (JW serves other international dishes.
Pipera/Băneasa, go to page 79. Marriott Grand Hotel Bucharest)
t+40214 031 917 BULGARIAN
AMERICAN &  fb.com/champions.bucharest
STEAK HOUSES Taverna La Ceflica
Hard Rock Café a1 Șos. Ștefan Cel Mare
Red Angus Steakhouse  a32 Kiseleff St. (inside Herăstrău t+40212 339 798
a56 Franceză St. Park) t+40212 066 261 wrestaurantbulgaresc.ro
t+40756 600 000 whardrock.com/cafes/Bucharest
wwww.redangus.ro The famous restaurant now also CHINESE
 fb.com/RedAngusSteakhouse serves vegetarian dishes.
Red Angus Steakhouse is the 5 Elemente
melting pot of the everlasting JW Steakhouse a15 Icoanei St.
American symbols — the love for a90 Calea 13 Septembrie (inside t+40766 331 511
motorcycles, the fun of playing JW Marriott Bucharest hotel) wwww.cincielemente.ro
a pinball and the best blues t+40214 031 903
in town, interpreted by Brent wwww.jwsteakhouse.ro Nan Jing
Melancon. Mix all these with a2-4 Gheorghe Manu St.
tender, juicy steaks and burgers Osho t+40213 181 285
and you get the true Red Angus a19-21 Primăverii Blvd. wwww.restaurantnanjing.ro/en
Steakhouse experience! t+40215 683 031
wwww.osho-restaurant.ro Orașul Interzis
Argentine a3 Silvestru St.
a8 Șoseaua Nordului, Herăstrău Prime Steaks & Seafood t+40314 254 747
t+40720 100 400 a63-81 Calea Victoriei, B-4 wwww.orasul-interzis.ro
aBăneasa Shopping City (within Radisson Blu hotel)
t+40721 100 400 t+40213 119 000 Qian Bao
wwww.restaurant-argentine.ro wwww.world-of-tastes.ro a2 Intrarea Baba Novac
They serve steaks and sushi, a t+4 0722 622 865
common combination in South The Beef Club wwww.qianbao.ro
America. a30A Ermil Pangratti St.
t+40788 904 244 Wu Xing
Barbizon Steak House wwww.thebeefclub.ro a6E Dimitrie Pompeiu Blvd.
a10 Montreal Square (Pullman t+40721 221 519
Hotel) t+40212 021 635 Vacamuuu wwww.wuxing.ro
ebarbizon@pullman.ro a111 Calea Floreasca
t+40731 351 135 FAST FOOD
Buffalo Baz wwww.vacamuuu.com
a7 Calea Floreasca Most of these fast food outlets have
t+40736 368 335 White Horse several locations throughout the city:
 fb.com/buffalobaz a4A Călinescu George St. below we list one main location for
t+40212 312 795 each. Check their websites for more
Burger Bar wwww.whitehorse.ro locations.
a182 Calea Dorobanți
aNicolae Șelari Entrance, BRITISH Dristor Kebab
Old Town a1 Camil Ressu St.
t+40213 130 376 Peter’s Kitchen Bistro t+40213 468 100
wwww.burger-bar.ro a6 Speranței St. wwww.dristorkebab.com
t+4021 312 0242
46 City Compass

KFC einfo.bucharest@radissonblu.com GREEK


t+40212 039 030 wwww.kfc.ro Savor a steak prepared to
perfection, selected from Amvrosia
McDonald’s worldwide awarded producers in a11 Drumul Bisericii St.
t+40212 026 800 a sophisticated atmosphere, ac- t+40722 227 465
wwww.mcdonalds.ro companied by the most exquisite wamvrosia-restaurant-grecesc.ro
wine from our walk-in cellar.
Nordsee Opening hours: Lunch — Monday La Zavat
aAFI Palace Cotroceni to Friday 12:30–15:00. Dinner — a16 Popa Nan St.
t+40734 272 212 Monday to Saturday 18:00–23:30. t+40766 526 791
winternational.nordsee.com/ro Sunday — Closed. wwww.taverna-lazavat.ro

Pizza Hut Joseph by Joseph Hadad LNKO Souvlaki & Grill


a5-7 Calea Dorobanți a8 Dr. Ion Cantacuzino St. a3-5 Pierre de Coubertin Blvd.,
t+40740 121 901 t+40753 999 333 inside Mega Mall
wwww.pizzahut.ro wwww.josephrestaurant.ro wfb.com/LNKO-Souvlaki-Grill
Among the best fine dining options New Greek restaurant opened in
Pizza Hut Delivery in the city, as well as one of the the fall of 2015.
t+40212 101 010 most expensive.
wwww.pizzahutdelivery.ro Meze Taverna
Madame Pogany a6 Nicolae Tonitza St.
Subway a40-44 Banu Antonache St. t+40215 395 353
a1 Nicolae Titulescu Blvd. t+40735 091 532 wwww.mezetaverna.ro
wwww.subwayro.com  fb.com/madamepogany

Surf’n’Fries TAPO
a17 Halelor St. a30 Oltețului St. INDIAN
t+40371 049 490 t+40747 083 083 wwww.tapo.ro
wsurfnfries.com/ro Haveli
The Artist a3 Episcopul Radu St.
FRENCH a13 Nicolae Tonitza St. t+40212 110 390
t+40728 318 871 wwww.haveli.ro
Ici et Là wwww.theartist.ro
a43 Mendeleev St. (Romană A Dutch chef brings to Bucharest Karishma
Square), 1st District the experience of a modern, fusion a36 Iancu Căpitanu St.
t+40731 453 608 restaurant. t+40212 525 157
wwww.icietla.ro wwww.karishma.ro
Veranda Casa Frumoasa
La Cantine de Nicolai a5 Clopotarii Vechi St. Kumar’s Agra Palace
a15-17 Povernei St. t+40733 735 932 a6 Mântuleasa St.
t+40725 210 608 wverandacasafrumoasa.ro t+40764 523 202
wwww.lacantinedenicolai.ro Fine dining experience in an wwww.agrapalace.ro
elegant setting.
Le Fin Palais Royal Taj
a13 Amzei Square GERMAN a127-131 Calea 13 Septembrie
t+40213 136 464 t+40748 133 300
wwww.lefinpalaisroyal.ro Casa Warsteiner wwww.tajrestaurant.ro
a132 Uverturii St.
FUSION & FINE DINING t+40732 919 524 INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
 fb.com/casawarsteiner.ro
Prime Steaks & Seafood  The Harbour 
a63-81 Calea Victoriei St., Die Deutsche Kneipe a10-22 Piața Amzei
inside Radisson Blu Hotel) a9 Stockholm St. t+40724 388 686
t+40213 119 000 t+40722 284 560 t+40213 197 257
wwww.tasteofblu.ro wwww.diedeutschekneipe.ro w www.harbour.ro
Directory: Eating & Drinking 47

This is The Harbour that makes Gargantua  fb.com/JWMarriottGarden


you feel at home. This is The Har- a1 Șerban Petrescu St.
bour, the shore of all travelers. t+40726 555 679 Victoriei 18
And there are a lot of good news wwww.restaurantgargantua.ro a16 - 20 Calea Victoriei
nowadays: We give you The New Three restaurants in Bucharest. t+40721 362 483
Harbour! A new international  fb.com/Victoriei18
menu more delicious than ever, Goccia Restaurant doubling as showcase
new design, great and friendly a23 George Enescu St. for Romanian design products.
atmosphere. Definitely worth t+40785 238 910
seeing!  fb.com/goccia.restaurant Vivolis Flavors
a155 Șos. București-Ploiești
18 Lounge Iconic Food Wine & Design t40785 491 753
a2-5 Presei Libere Square, City a7 Aleea Alexandru wflavors.vivolis.ro
Gate South Tower, 18th fl. t+4720 333 541 An international menu, reflecting
t+40733 501 401 wwww.iconic-fwd.ro the owners’ passion for travel.
wwww.18lounge.ro
Great view over Bucharest from La Samuelle Zebra Caffe & Ristorante
this top-floor restaurant. a3-5 Charles de Gaulle Square a8 Octavian Goga St.
t+40720 492 207 t+40733 936 917
Beca’s Kitchen wwww.la-samuelle.ro wwww.zebra-caffe.ro
a80 Mihai Eminescu St. This venue has an international A streamlined, international
t+40722 308 960 menu and proposes the ‘gourmet menu. The venue also organizes
wwww.becaskitchen.ro travelling’ concept. catered events and offers private
rooms.
Casa di David La Veranda
a7-9 Șoseaua Nordului a1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne
t+40212 324 715 Plaza Hotel) ITALIAN
wwww.casadidavid.ro t+40212 240 034
wwww.crowneplaza.ro Caffé Città 
Chefs Experience a63-81 Calea Victoriei St.,
a55 Calea Floreasca Naan Food & Drink Studio (inside Radisson Blu Hotel)
t+40723 856 916 a26 C.A. Rosetti St. t+40213 119 000
wwww.chefsexperience.ro t+40721 662 114 einfo.bucharest@radissonblu.com
wwww.naan.ro wwww.tasteofblu.ro
Chez Marie Simple, yet sophisticated Italian
a48 Dionisie Lupu St. Salon Golescu dishes, fresh and delicious ingre-
t+40311 072 033 a17 Nicolae Golescu St. dients to accompany a memo-
wwww.chezmarie.ro t+40314 360 338 rable first date or a successful
wwww.salongolescu.ro business meeting. Opening hours:
Chico Chillout Daily from 11:30 to 23:30.
a10 Tonitza St. Simbio
t+40733 324 426 a26 Negustori St. Grano Italian Fine Food 
wwww.chicochillout.ro t+4021 310 2700 a40 Puțul lui Zamfir St.
 www.fb.com/SimbioKitchenBar t+40212 312 386
Citronelle wwww.grano.ro
a1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne Stradale One of the author’s favorite
Plaza hotel) a1A Șos. București Ploiești (inside Italian restaurants in town, run
t+40212 240 034 Bucharest Business Park office by Giulio Da Sacco. It also hosts a
ecitronelle@crowneplaza.ro building) t+40744 777 043 small delicatessen shop.
wwww.flavours.ro/stradale
Corso Brasserie Roberto’s 
a4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. (inside The Garden a1-3 Episcopiei St. (inside
Intercontinental Hotel) a90 Calea 13 Septembrie (JW Athénée Palace Hilton Hotel)
t+40213 102 020 Marriott Grand Hotel Bucharest) t+40731 305 777
t+40214 031 919 wwww.robertos.ro
48 City Compass

Choose to experience “pura Patrizia Ristorante t+40761 341 667


cucina italiana” in this elegant a12 Mihail Moxa St. wwww.yukihomedining.ro
restaurant, an ideal venue for t+40731 202 027
lunch or dinner. Savor delicious wwww.ristorantepatrizia.ro Zen Sushi
antipasti and a wide range of a56 Grigore Alexandrescu St.
Italian wines, while taking in Pizzeria Capricciosa Ristorante t+40721 755 455
the views from the restaurant’s a2 Ion Ionescu de la Brad Blvd. wwww.zensushibucuresti.ro
charming terrace opened all t+40212 330 635 They have two other restaurants
summer long. wwww.restaurantcapricciosa.ro in the city.
Great for lunch meetings on the
Bocca Lupo way to or from the airport. LEBANESE
a1 Joseph Lister St.
t+40314 050 050 Quattro Stagioni Chez Toni
wwww.boccalupo.ro a1 Mareșal Prezan Blvd. a3 Glodeni St. t+40212 420 204
t+40723 196 380 wwww.cheztoni.ro
Cucina wwww.quattrostagioni.ro
a90 Calea 13 Septembrie (JW Coin Vert
Marriott Grand Hotel Bucharest) Stadio a75 Sandu Aldea St.
t+40724 000 946 a11 Ion Câmpineanu St. t+40213 192 439
 fb.com/JWMarriottCucina t+40731 333 311 wstadio.ro wwww.elbacha.ro

Cucina Borghese Stradivari’s El Bacha


a33 Jean Louis Calderon St. a3 Gh. Șincai Blvd. a6 Alba Iulia Square
t+4021 313 1119 t+40213 307 005 t+40212 691 392 welbacha.ro
wwww.cucinaborghese.com wwww.restaurantstradivari.ro
Four Seasons
Cucina di Eleni Zafferano a177 Calea Dorobanților
a35 Stefan Mihăileanu St. a29 Popa Savu St. t+40722 216 666
t+40733 953 456 t+40212 227 210 wwww.four-seasons.ro
wwww.cucinadieleni.ro wzafferano.ro
Piccolo Mondo
Gallo Nero JAPANESE a9 Clucerului St.
a239 Calea Dorobanți t+40212 225 755
t+40728 246 925 wgallonero.ro Benihana wwww.piccolomondo.ro
a5-7 Calea Dorobanților (inside
La Fattoria Sheraton hotel) t+40212 015 030 Zaitoone
a7-9 Șos. Nordului, Herăstrău  fb.com/BenihanaBucharest a2 Nicolae Caramfil St.
Park t+40311 046 338 t+40737 299 900 wzaitoone.ro
wwww.lafattoria.ro Edo Sushi
a122 Calea Victoriei MEDITERRANEAN
Modigliani t+40735 111 001
a4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. (inside wedo-sushi.ro Sharkia –  
Intercontinental hotel) East Mediterranean Cuisine
t+40213 102 020 Kanpai Bistro a63-81 Calea Victoriei St.,
wwww.restaurantmodigliani.com a49 George Călinescu St. (inside Radisson Blu Hotel)
t+40371 184 961 t+40216 013 600
Osteria Ciao Niki  fb.com/Kanpai49 einfo.bucharest@
a90 Mihai Eminescu St. rezidorparkinn.com
t+40734 356 217 Yoshi wwww.tasteofblu.ro
wwww.osteriaciaoniki.ro a40-44 Banu Antonache St. Sharkia, our East Mediterranean
t+40314 290 280 restaurant invites you to a cozy,
Osteria Gioia wwww.restaurantyoshi.ro warm and friendly atmosphere,
a16 Ion Mihalache Blvd. where you can enjoy our fresh
t+40734 044 642 Yuki and delicious cuisine.
wwww.osteriagioia.ro a5 Puțul lui Zamfir St. This restaurant is located in Park
Directory: Eating & Drinking 49

Inn by Radisson Bucharest Hotel They do home deliveries. t+40311 017 405
& Residence and can be easily  fb.com/anabakingro
accessed by the Radisson Blu MONGOLIAN
guests. Opening hours: Monday Brot Manufactur
to Saturday from 11:30 to 23:00. QuanQuan Mongol a30 Nicolae Caramfil St.
a1A Ion Ionescu de la Brad St. t+0314 258 223
Amada t+400212 692 189 wwww.brotmanufactur.ro
a3 Cristian Radu St. wwww.restaurantmongol.ro
t+40744 496 577 Biscuit
 fb.com/amada.taverna MOLDAVIAN a3 Popa Savu St.
t+40721 754 054
Avalon La Plăcinte wwww.biscuit.ro
a5-7 Calea Dorobanților (inside a49 Nicolae Caramfil St. Pastry and confectionery lab.
the Sheraton hotel) t+40743 110 045 They make deserts on-demand
t+40212 015 030 wwww.laplacinte.ro and sell gluten-free, raw-vegan
Moldavian dishes, mainly pies sweets.
Mesogios with all sorts of fillings. They have
a49 Jean Louis Calderon St. other restaurants in town.
t+40727 239 239 Bread & Spices
wwww.mesogios.ro PASTRY & a4 Șos. Pipera t+40770 695 416
East Mediterranean cuisine. CONFECTIONERY  fb.com/BreadandSpices
RESTAURANTS
Octopus Chocolat
a21-23 I.L. Caragiale St Crêperie d’Amour  a6 Episcopiei St. t+40724 387 865
t+40765 433 305 eadela@clatitefermecate.ro wwww.chocolat.com.ro
 fb.com/rest.octopus wwww.clatitefermecate.ro
Contemporary Mediterranean Crêperie d’Amour is a premium Cinnabon
cuisine. crêpe shop addressing the con- aBăneasa Shopping City
noisseurs of French cuisine and t+40757 037 290 wcinnabon.ro
Sole Restaurant the lovers of home-made snacks Very good cinnamon rolls and
a48 Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd. and desserts. The menu includes cupcakes. More units in shopping
t+40740 403 333 made-to-order sweet and savory malls — check their website.
wwww.solerestaurant.ro crêpes, prepared on typical
crêpières with top quality fresh French Bakery
Yardini ingredients. Crêperie d’Amour a18 Paris St. t+40212 300 059
a84A Știrbei Voda St. comes to your event with Bar à wwww.frenchbakery.ro
t+40724 676 106 Crêpes or its famous LIVE Crêpes. More locations in Bucharest:
wwww.yardini.ro check their website.
Agapitos
MEXICAN a4 Corneliu Coposu St. Le Grenier a Pain
t+4021 326 6095 wagapitos.ro a87 Nicolae Caramfil st.
Don Taco Several other confectionery shops t+40212 331 916
a101 Iacob Felix St. across Bucharest. wlegrenierapain.com.ro
t+40213 169 452
wwww.dontaco.ro Alice Maison Laduree
a123-125 Șos. Mihai Bravu a126-130 Calea Dorobanți
El Torito t+40744 486 465 t+40755 747 325
a30 Iancu Căpitanu St. wwww.cofetariaalice.ro  fb.com/LadureeRomania
t+40212 526 688 Great cakes, including for special
wwww.eltorito.ro occasions. Usually very popular Paul
among buyers, and quite crowded a15-19 Regina Elisabeta Blvd.
La Tortilla sometimes.  fb.com/paul1889.romania
a90 Dornei St. Plus other locations throughout
t+40731 221 121 Ana Baking Co. Bucharest.
wwww.latortilla.ro a134 Calea Dorobanților
50 City Compass

Rue du Pain The Livingroom Café La Nenea Iancu


a111-113 Calea Floreasca a3 Hristo Botev St. a55 Romulus St.
t+40213 120 060 t+40723 694 937  fb.com/ t+40747 020 603
 fb.com/ruedupain.floreasca TheLivingroomCafeBucharest  fb.com/LaNeneaIancu
This vegetarian and vegan restau-
RAW & VEGAN rant does breakfast and brunch Nicorești
and doubles as a sandwich shop. a13 Toamnei St.
Barca t+40212 112 480
a9 Emanoil Porumbaru St. ROMANIAN wwww.restaurantnicoresti.ro
t+40720 928 278
wwww.restaurantbarca.ro Caru’ cu Bere Pescăruș
a5 Stavropoleos St., Old Town aPescăruș Alley, inside the
Fitto Cafe Victoriei t+40726 282 373 Herăstrău park t+40731 330 034
a4-8 Nicolae Titulescu Blvd. wwww.carucubere.ro wwww.restaurantpescarus.ro
t+4021 222 0704 wfittocafe.ro
This cafe focuses on fresh and Casa Doina Zexe Zahana
healthy eating and plans its a4 Șoseaua Kiseleff a80 Icoanei St.
menus accordingly. They serve a t+40212 226 717 wcasadoina.ro t+40732 232 424 wwww.zexe.ro
Lawyer Breakfast and a Dr. Order
one. Catering service available. Hanu’ Berarilor SPANISH
a2 Poenaru Bordea St.
La Plantivore t+40213 368 009 Alioli
a35 Calea Moșilor wwww.hanuberarilor.ro a4 Popa Tatu St.
t+40733 193 590 t+40213 118 027 wwww.alioli.ro
 fb.com/La-Plantivore Hanu’ lui Manuc
This vegan restaurant does a a62-64 Franceză St., Old Town El Puerto Iberico
range of live & raw food and has a t+40730 188 653 a61-63 Calea Dorobanți
smoothie and juice bar. wwww.hanumanuc.ro t+40735 042 546
This restaurant is famous in the wwww.elpuertoiberico.ro
Ostraw Vegan Bucharest Old Town, and is run by
a58 Ferdinand Blvd. the City Grill Group, the same as La Finca by Alioli
t+40725 683 426 Caru cu Bere. a77 Grigore Alexandrescu St.
wwww ostrawvegan.com t+40767 150 500
Raw-vegan sweets. Jariștea wwww.alioli.ro
a50-52 Georgescu St.
Rawdia t+40213 353 338 wjaristea.ro La Rambla
a50-52 Puțul lui Zamfir St. a8 Grigore Alexandrescu St.,
t+40784 203 251 wrawdia.ro La Conu’ Iancu Victoriei Square
Restaurant, shop and home a24 Prof. Dr. Mihail Georgescu St. t+40213 131 002
deliveries. t+40742 111 852 wwww.larambla.ro
wwww.laconuiancu.ro
Satya Pata Negra
a25 Banu Manta Blvd. La Mama a21 Crișana St.
t+40736 392 587 wsatya.ro a9 Episcopiei St. t+40734 349 076
t+40213 129 797 wlamama.ro wwww.patanegra.ro
Soup Up
a14 București Nord Road, La Mircea Măcelaru’ Sangria
Voluntari, inside Pipera Mall a15 Maior Alexandru Câmpeanu St. a78 Căderea Bastiliei St.
t+40742 044 333 t+40737 521 738 t+40212 112 276 wsangria.ro
 fb.com/SoupUp wwww.lamirceamacelaru.ro
Soup bar, serving a wide selection, This venue serves traditional THAI
including raw and vegetarian Romanian food. A butchery is also
soups. Salads also available. available, as is a catering service. Kunnai 
a6-12 Copilului St.
t+40722 687 343
Directory: Eating & Drinking 51

t+40722 687 454 Candy Cat Salad Revolution


wwww.kunnai.ro t+40216 487 059 wcandycat.ro a11 Rabat St. t+40733 725 282
Pastry and cake deliveries wwww.saladrevolution.ro
TURKISH
Coșul de Legume Satya
Harem t+40733 686 630 a25 Banu Manta St.
a7-9 Șos. Nordului wwww.cosuldelegume.ro t+40736 392 587 wsatya.ro
t+40756 990 999 Coșul de Legume (which This is a vegetarian restaurant
wwww.haremrestaurant.ro translates as ‘The Vegetable that also does home deliveries.
Basket’) delivers fresh fruit and
Les Ottomans vegetables, as well as jams and Sector Gurmand
a26 Iancu Căpitanu St. traditional home-preserved fruits t+40733 722 126
t+40722 600 630 and vegetables. Online orders also wwww.sectorgurmand.ro
wwww.lesottomans.ro possible — website in Romanian. Food delivery, with daily menus,
including a vegetarian one.
Kafeterya Café Diet To Go
a8 Schitu Măgureanu Blvd. t+40721764752 wdiettogo.ro Sushi Mania
t+40726 222 567 Home or office delivery of full diet a79-91 Traian Popovici St.
wwww.kafeterya.ro plan meals. t+40213 278 744
Cafe and restaurant serving wwww.my-sushi.ro
several Turkish dishes. Fabio Pizza
t+40372 188 330 Trenta Pizza
Sultan wwww.fabiopizza.ro t+4021 9645 wtrentapizza.ro
a247 Mihai Bravu Blvd. Fabio make some of the best
t+40785 551 050 pizzas in town, with interesting
wwww.sultanrestaurant.ro recipes, and the choice of ordering Cafés & tea
VIETNAMESE
a wholewheat base.
houses
Fruitbox
Li-Wu Vietnamese Fast Food t+40736 673 165 Café Athénée 
a26 Ștefan cel Mare St. wwww.fruitbox.ro a1-3 Episcopiei St. (inside
t+40730 201 111 wwww.liwu.ro Delivers fresh fruit to your office Athénée Palace Hilton Hotel)
every week based on a long- t+40213 033 777
Toan’s – Vietnamese term contract. The website is in wwww.hiltonbucharest.com
a12-14 Magheru Blvd. Romanian, but you can call and Enjoy the coziness of Café Athé-
t+40737 053 128 order the products to be delivered née and unwind with a glass of
wwww.toans.ro to your door. wine, French dishes and gourmet
Vietnamese fast food; delivery pastry while looking out onto
also available. Jerry’s Pizza the bustling Revolution Square.
a21 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. As the sun sets, the restaurant
CATERING & t+403733 03 030 transforms into a comfort-
DELIVERY SERVICES wwww.jerryspizza.ro able lounge and on Sundays it
Night service available in becomes the perfect place for a
Many restaurants in Bucharest also Bucharest. French Brunch.
provide catering and delivery services
— below you can find the listings Noodles Bar The Coffee Factory 
for a selection of them. If you have a a2 Cameliei St. t+40726 733 178 a54 Regina Elisabeta Blvd.
favorite restaurant, ask if they also do wwww.noodlesbar.ro t+40766 282 470
home deliveries. estefan@contego-coffee.com
Pomello wwww.contego-coffee.com
Bucate pe Roate Catering t+40753 096 000 The Coffee Factory- the place
t+40721 282 283 wwww.pomello.ro where you can discover the
wwww.bucateperoate.ro Pomello delivers food in bulk, in unique jazz of coffee. Here you
Catering for events and home food the pot in which it was cooked. can taste the exotic aroma of
delivery. fresh roasted coffee from all over
52 City Compass

the world in a warm and friendly Infinitea bar by night, a unique experience
atmosphere. At The Coffee Fac- a7 Grigore Romniceanu St. at the heart of Bucharest. Lounge
tory you find, experience or buy t+40723 175 300 and sip one of the spectacular
the best coffee in town, roasted in winfinitea.ro vodkas from the bar’s selection.
our own shop. A nice café inside a villa next to Opening hours: Monday to Friday
the only stair–street in Bucharest. 8:30–2:00, Saturday and Sunday
Bernschutz from 9:00–00:00.
a5 Eremia Grigorescu St. La Scena
t+40372 790 723 a55 Calea Călărașilor Dark Blå –  
wwww.bernschutz.com t+40724 081 810 wlascena.ro Upscale late night bar
Also hosts theater events. a63-81 Calea Victoriei St.,
Cafepedia (inside Radisson Blu Hotel)
a2 Pictor Arthur Verona St. Lente t+40213 119 000
t+40721 102 101 a8 Arcului St. t+40212 109 696 einfo.bucharest@radissonblu.com
 fb.com/cafepediabucuresti wwww.lente.ro wwww.tasteofblu.ro
Designed for aristocratic leisure,
Care Café Nespresso Boutique while savoring a single malt
a8 Olari St. t+40721 331 014 a120 Calea Dorobanților whiskey accompanied by an
 fb.com/carecafebucuresti t+40800 008 300 extraordinary cigar. The music
Cafe opened as part of a social wwww.nespresso.com/ro selection puts the finishing
economy project. The venue falls under the luxury touches on the exclusive ambi-
retail line of the brand. ance of the place. Opening hours:
Cărturești Garden (Café Verona) Monday to Friday 5:00–2:00,
a13-15 Pictor Arthur Verona St. Readers Café Saturday to Sunday 8:00–0:00.
t+40732 003 060 a56-60 Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd.
wwww.carturesti.ro t+40737 323 377 Crowne Café Bar
A beautiful and popular terrace wwww.readerscafe.ro a1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne
behind the Cărturești bookshop. Plaza Hotel) t+40212 240 034
Sky Bar wwww.crowneplaza.ro
Clubul Țăranului a155 Calea Dorobanților
a2 Șos. Kiseleff t+40724 759 227 wskybar.ro Copper’s Pub
t+40213 108 048 a25 Hristo Botev Blvd.
Inside & adjoining the Romanian Starbucks t+40729 880 143
Peasant Museum. a6D Dimitrie Pompeiu Blvd.  fb.com/Coppers.Pub.Theatre
wwww.starbucksromania.ro Restaurant & pub and theater.
Grand Café Galleron Serves many Italian dishes.
a18 A Nicolae Golescu St. The Coffee Shop
t+40213 124 565 a5 Baniei St. t+40756 077 399 Fabrica Club
wwww.grandcafegalleron.ro wwww.caffea.ro a50, 11 Iunie St. t+40213 350 323
wwww.fabrica-club.ro
Grădina OAR Tucano Coffee This venue gathers in one place
a19 Pictor Arthur Verona St. a18 Calea Dorobanților a bar, pub, billiard & darts and a
t+40216 502 020 t+40761 376 626 wtucanocoffee.ro playground for children.
wwww.gradina-oar.ro
A nice garden terrace tucked away James Joyce’s Pub
from the Magheru boulevard. Pubs & bars a1-3 Walter Mărăcineanu Square
t+40749 637 368
Green Hours Blå Lounge Bar   fb.com/jamesjoyce2014
a120 Calea Victoriei a63-81 Calea Victoriei St.,
t+40788 452 485 (inside Radisson Blu Hotel) Journey Pub
wwww.greenhours.ro t+40213 119 000 a25 George Enescu St.
This is a jazz café known for the einfo.bucharest@radissonblu.com t+40213 152 090
many live performances it hosts. wwww.tasteofblu.ro wwww.journey-pub.ro
Discover a modern, stylish venue This is a pub and restaurant, a
that morphs into an amazing ice good place for going out with
Directory: Eating & Drinking / Hotels & Travel 53

large groups of friends. They have Berăria Nenea Iancu WINE BARS
plenty of board games to keep a3 Covaci St. (Old Town)
everyone entertained. t+40752 034 171 Crama Oliver Bauer 
wwww.berarianeneaiancu.ro a10 Dealul Olt St., Drăgășani,
Newton Bar Vâlcea t+40757 098 940
a56 Jean Louis Calderon St. Berăria Siegfried wwww.cramabauer.com
t+40734 630 969 a19 Șos. Orhideelor eraluca@cramabauer.com
wnewtonbar.ro t+40756 014 040 Join us to the world of wine. We
wwww.berariasiegfried.ro invite you to visit our cellar and to
BEER HALLS experience artisanal wines paired
Gambrinus with local Oltenian food.
Berăria Bragadiru a38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd. A visit to Crama Bauer comes
a157 Calea Rahovei t+40731 422 181 complete with stunning views over
t+40737 500 150 wwww.restaurantgambrinus.ro the Olt river and the Dragasani
wwww.beraria-bragadiru.ro vineyards. Only by reservation,
Weiss Beer Garden groups from 4 to 15 persons.
Berăria H a132 Uverturii Blvd. Contact person: Raluca Bauer
a32 Kiseleff Blvd., inside t+40733 582 852 wweissbeer.ro
Herăstrău park t+40725 345 345 Fox Wines
wwww.berariah.ro a87 Dacia Blvd. t+40314 250 091
wwww.foxwines.ro

Hotels & Travel


FIVE-STAR HOTELS wwww.snagovclub.ro Intercontinental
Snagov Club can be your fun a4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd.
Athénée Palace Hilton  paradise and your relaxation t+40213 102 020
a1-3 Episcopiei St. oasis at the same time. A pool wintercontinental.com/bucharest
t+4021 303 3777 bar with palm trees and good
wwww.hiltonbucharest.com music, SPA Center, 3 restaurants, JW Marriott Bucharest
Set in the heart of the city center, lake pavilion, pier, generous Grand Hotel
Athénée Palace Hilton is a his- garden and luxury rooms. a90 Calea 13 Septembrie
toric landmark offering upscale t+40214 030 000
accommodation and warm Casa Capșa wfb.com/JWMarriottBucharest
hospitality, a wealth of premium a36 Calea Victoriei
amenities, such as fully equipped t+40213 134 038 wcapsa.ro Marshal Garden Hotel
Fitness Centre Health Club and a50B Calea Dorobanților
a Casino, and great food options Carol Parc t+40213 194 444
in the two restaurants, summer a23-25 Aleea Șuter St. wwww.marshalgarden.ro
terrace and English Bar. t+40213 363 377
wwww.carolparchotel.ro Premier Palace
Radisson Blu  a134 Ghencea Bldv.
a63-81 Calea Victoriei Grand Hotel Continental t+40735 991 111
t+40213 119 000 a56 Calea Victoriei wwww.premierpalace.ro
einfo.bucharest@radissonblu.com t+40372 121 721
wwww.radissonblu.com/hotel- wwww.continentalhotels.ro Sheraton Bucharest Hotel
bucharest a5-7 Calea Dorobanților
t+40212 015 000
Snagov Club  Hotel Epoque wwww.starwoodhotels.com
a1B Aleea Nufărului St., Snagov a17C Intrarea Aurora Opened in August 2015 after the
Sat, Ilfov t+40213 526 079 t+40213 123 232 group took over the Bucharest
ereservation@snagovclub.ro wwww.hotelepoque.ro HoJo.
54 City Compass

FOUR-STAR HOTELS wwww.AccorHotels.com Inn by Radisson Bucharest Hotel


wwww.AccorHotels.ro & Residence. Bucharest travelers
Hotel Cișmigiu  Located in the heart of Bucharest, can pick from 210 rooms and
a38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd. on Calea Victoriei, only a few apartments and enjoy the
t+40314 030 500 steps away from Old Town and comforts of home whether you’re
wwwww.hotelcismigiu.ro the main city attractions, Novotel staying for a weekend or for an
Conveniently located downtown Bucharest City Centre is a perfect extended stay.
Bucharest, the newly rebuilt blend of classic architecture
Cismigiu Hotel 4i, one century and modern design, the ideal Amzei Hotel
old and one million stories rich, destination either for business or a8 Piața Amzei
has come to life again. Creating leisure trips. t+40213 139 400
a fantastic ambiance, its design wwww.hotelamzei.ro
melts heritage and novelty, Park Inn by Radisson  This hotel has both three-star and
mixing Art Nouveau architecture Bucharest Hotel & four-star rooms.
with contemporary style. Residence
a2-4 Luterană St. Arc de Triomphe Hotel
Novotel Bucharest  t+40216 103 600 a19 Clucerului St.
City Centre t+40216 013 601 t+40372 150 700
a37B Calea Victoriei einfo.bucharest@ wwww.residencehotels.com.ro
t+40213 088 500 rezidorparkinn.com
eh5558@accor.com wparkinn.com/hotel-bucharest Capital Plaza Hotel
wwww.novotel.com For optimum relaxation in the a54 Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd.
wwww.MerciByNovotel.ro heart of the city, choose the Park t+40372 080 080

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wwww.capitalplaza.ro t+40314 256 230 a38-40 Calea Victoriei


wwww.grandboutiquehotel.ro t+40213 102 715
Caro Golf wwww.majestic.ro
a164 A Barbu Văcărescu Blvd. K+K Hotel Elisabeta
t+40212 086 100 whotelcaro.ro a26 Slănic St. Venezia
A three-and two-star mix. t+40213 029 280 a2 Pompiliu Eliade St.
wwww.kkhotels.ro t+40213 106 872
Central wthhotels.ro/hotel-venezia
a13 Brezoianu St. La Conac
t+040213 155 635 a367B Odăi Road THREE-STAR HOTELS
wwww.thhotels.ro/hotel-central t+40722 600 835
wwww.residencehotels.com.ro Avis Boutique Hotel
Crowne Plaza a10 Aerogării Blvd.
a1 Poligrafiei Blvd. Mercure Hotel t+40212 324 478 wavishotel.ro
t+40212 240 034 a15-17A George Enescu St.
wwww.crowneplaza.ro t+40372 426 000 Ibis Gara de Nord
eH9680@accor.com a143 Calea Griviței
Domenii Plaza Hotel t+40213 009 110
a33 Alexandru Constantinescu St. NH Hotel wwww.ibishotels.ro
t+40372 150 600 a21 Mircea Vodă Blvd.
wwww.residence.com.ro t+40213 000 545 Ibis Parliament
a82-84 Izvor St.
Double Tree by Hilton Orhideea Residence & Spa t+40214 011 011 wibishotels.ro
a3A Nerva Traian St. a145 Calea Plevnei
t+40212 006 270 t+40215 696 360 Opera Hotel
 fb.com/dtbucharest wwww.orhideeaspa.ro a37 Brezoianu St.
t+40213 124 855 whotelopera.ro
Europa Royale Phoenicia Grand Hotel
a60 Franceză St. (Old Town) a87 Alexandru Șerbănescu Blvd. Rembrandt Hotel
t+40213 191 798 t+40213 000 888 a11 Smârdan St.
wwww.groupeuropa.com wwww.phoeniciagrandhotel.ro t+40213 139 315 wrembrandt.ro

Golden Tulip Times Pullman Bucharest World APART HOTELS & SHORT
a19 Decebal Blvd. Trade Center TERM APARTMENTS
t+40213 166 516 a10 Montreal Square
wwww.goldentuliptimes.com t+40213 183 000 R’Urban by PoemBoem 
wwww.pullmanhotels.com t+40723 347 103
Golden Tulip Victoria wwww.poemboem.com
a166 Calea Victoriei Ramada Plaza Home away, elegant short term
t+40212 125 558 a3-5 Poligrafiei Blvd. rental, self-catering apartment
wwww.goldentulipbucharest.com t+40215 493 000 in Armenească, Icoanei area, in
wwww.ramadaplazabucharest.ro central Bucharest. Welcome to
Grand Boutique Hotel R’Urban by PoemBoem!
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56 City Compass

ApartHomes Friends Hostel TRAVEL AGENCIES


a33 George Valentin Bibescu St. a114 Mircea Vulcănescu St.
t+40212 320 406 t+40318 053 414 TUI Travel Center 
waparthomes.ro wwww.friendshostel.ro a3-5 Reinvierii St., 2nd Floor
(Europa Primex building)
Hotel Bucuresti – SS Funky Chicken Hostel t+40213 160 890/
Residence Apart-Hotels a63 Gral Berthelot St. +40213 160 782/+40314 016 395
a40 – 42 Cuza Voda St. t+40213 121 425 t+40314 016 396
t +40720 533 355 wwww.funkychickenhostel.com eoffice@eurolines.ro
wwww.hotelssresidence.ro wwww.tui-travelcenter.ro
The Midland Hostel Our Mission: We are dedicated
HOSTELS a22 Bizerica Amzei St. to putting a smile on people’s
t+40213 145 323 faces, offering them unique and
Antique Hostel wwww.themidlandhostel.com unforgettable experiences. Our
a2A Splaiul Independentei vision: To become the first choice
t+4031 425 8519 Pura Vida Sky Bar & Hostel of the customers when choosing
wwww.antiquehostel.ro a7 Smârdan St. their tourism partner in Romania.
t+40786 329 134 Our values: Obsession for our
The Cozyness Downtown wsky.puravidahostels.ro clients, excellence in services,
Hostel safety and trust.
a28 Drumea Rădulescu St. X Hostel
t+40770 357 448 a9 Bălcești St. t+40213 674 912 Classy Romania 
wwww.thecozyness.com wwww.xhostel.com t+ 40725 238 464
eoffice@classyromania.com

Traffic & the railway station, take a cab


from the official taxi area using
(you need to register first).
You can also buy tickets directly

Transport one of the ticketing devices at the


main entrance, or the subway.
Never go with drivers hustling for
at the railway station, at any of
the automatic ticket vending ma-
chines, or helped by an operator.
IN & OUT OF BUCHAREST business, always check the rates
on the doors of the cars, and make Regiotrans
Henri Coandă Airport sure that the driver is using the wwww.regiotrans.ro
a224E Calea Bucureștilor, meter! The subway is accessible A private railway operator running
Otopeni town t+40212 041 000 directly from the train station. on several routes in the country.
wwww.bucharestairports.ro When calling the railway station, You can buy tickets online,
Bucharest’s main airport is keep trying, they don’t always pick on board and in several train
located 15km north of the city, up the first time. stations.
in Otopeni. Two express buses
connect the main railway station National Railways Company Softrans
and downtown Bucharest to the – CFR wwww.softrans.ro
airport. An official taxi area and wwww.mersultrenurilorcfr.ro This is a private railway operator
taxi-ordering equipment are inside This company is owned by the running on the Constanța–
the arrivals hall. A large, paid car state. Traveling by train across București–Brașov and Craiova–
park is also available. Romania is not the speediest — București–Constanța routes. You
many railways need revamping to can buy tickets online or on board.
Main Railway Station – sustain higher speeds. Check this The train they operate is very
Gara de Nord website for train schedules, times modern and made in Craiova.
a2 Gării de Nord Blvd. to destinations, prices, etc. English
t+4021 9521 version also available. TAXIS
wwww.cfr.ro/webcam.php wbilete.cfrcalatori.ro
Live feed of arrivals and Buy tickets online on this site — Most regular-fare taxis in Bucharest
departures board. On arrival at English version also available charge between approximately
Directory: Hotels & Travel 57

RON 1.39–RON 1.75. The price per Taxi 2000


kilometer is written on the door. t+4021 9494 Avis Romania 
Avoid taxis that charge anything wwww.taxi2000.ro aIntercontinental Hotel, 4th
around RON 3.5. Call any of the cab Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd.
companies below, use their websites CAR DEALERS t+40212 104 344 wwww.avis.ro
to order, or use the Star Taxi or e reservations@avis.ro
Clever Taxi apps to get a regular fare Automobile Bavaria  Avis Romania offers car rental
taxi. When looking for a cab at the Group services in 11 main cities in the
airport or the main railway station, a53A Șos. București–Ploiești country and car rental bookings
use the official cab areas and ordering t+40212 006 263 in the international Avis network.
devices. t+40212 006 264 In Bucharest, cars can be rented
eoffice.baneasa@ from Otopeni Airport and
Black Cab automobilebavaria.ro downtown locations, or can be
t+40758 880 786 wwww.bmw-bavaria.ro delivered to any address within
wwww.blackcab.ro Automobile Bavaria Group is the city, free of charge.
This is a premium taxi service the largest network of BMW car
for comparable prices to regular dealers in Central and Eastern
taxis. You can order via app, Europe. The company has Autonom Rent-a-car
website or phone. The Black Cab offices in 10 cities in Romania t+40742 215 361 wautonom.ro
cars can also be hired for a certain and Germany (near Munich). Our
number of hours, with the Waiting experience and specialists ensure Europcar
and Return services. Limousines that any customer choosing our t+40213 101 797
and kids cabs also available, as network services makes the best wwww.europcar.ro
well as subscriptions and priority decision for him and the car he International car rental company,
accounts. uses. with locations all over Romania.

Meridian Taxi CAR RENTAL Sixt


t+4021 9444 t+4021 9888 t+4021 9400
wwww.meridiantaxi.ro Auto Concept  wsixt.com/car-rental/romania
a252 Șos. București-Ploiești
Speed Taxi t+40726 711 775 CAR SHARING
t+4021 9477 eoffice@auto-concept.ro
wwww.speedtaxi.ro wwww.auto-concept.ro Uber
Register as a new user on the site A unique concept on the wwww.uber.com/ro
to use the online ordering service. Romanian car market, which we The worldwide service available
have specially created to fit your in Bucharest starting 2015. Prices
Taxi Occident needs, claims and expecta- are similar to local cabs but you
t+4021 9413 tions regarding your car and won’t have to tip the driver.
all connected services. We are
Taxi Pelicanul permanently at your disposal, For trips throughout the country,
t+4021 9665 with optimal advice and solutions several car sharing sites are available
wwww.taxipelicanul.ro in the auto industry. in Romanian.

4inmasina

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is part of
58 City Compass

wwww.4inmasina.ro the city. Double–decker buses with 424 parking spaces and two
run every 15 minutes on this line. electric charging points. Within
Bla Bla Car Travel cards can be purchased on walking distance of Old Town.
wwww.blablacar.ro board the bus, with tickets costing
RON 25 for 24 hours — you can Unirea Car Park
MyLift hop on and off the bus any time aUnirii Square — entrance via
wwww.mylift.ro during this period. Aleea Negru Vodă
t+40213 030 165
BIKE RENTAL Metrorex wwww.unireashop.ro/categorii/
t+40213 193 601 parcare 5
Bikes for rent can be found in several wwww.metrorex.ro This multi-storey car park adjoins
of Bucharest’s larger parks (see I’Velo This is the metro system operator, Unirea Shopping Center. Direct
below). An ID and sometimes a small a state-owned company. The connection to the mall and to the
rental fee is necessary to hire a bike for network includes four metro lines, Carrefour supermarket nearby.
a few hours. with the fifth under construction.
There are 51 metro stations Obor Car Park
CarpatBike in Bucharest, and the average aObor Square — entrance via
a22 București–Târgoviște St. distance between stations is 1.5 Obor passage
t+40723 389 833 km. Trains run daily between 5am Underground car park close to
wwww.carpatbike.ro and 11pm. Obor market.
They rent bikes for longer tours,
and organize cross-country tours LONG-DISTANCE Athenaeum
one can join. BUSES & RENTAL A street–level car park is also
available in front of the Romanian
I’Velo Eurolines Athenaeum – paid during the day
aHerăstrău park, Tineretului t+40724 224 232 weurolines.ro and free during evenings and
Park, Triumphal Arch Eurolines covers many routes weekends. The same goes for
wwww.ivelo.ro across Europe, and can organize Victoria Square, in front of the
Three bike-sharing centers in private bus rental within Romania. Government building.
Bucharest. A limited number of For more car parks in Bucharest:
bikes available for free, others CAR REGISTRATION wwww.parkingbucharest.com
for a fee: RON 5 per hour or RON
15 for 24 hours. Online bike Car registration can involve complex
reservation possible. Crowded on procedures even for Romanians, so
weekends. we’d recommend getting the help of a
lawyer or a relocation company.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT CAR PARKING

Bucharest Transport Intercontinental Car Park


Company – RATB a4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd.
wwww.ratb.ro t+40213 156 047
This is Bucharest’s main public wwww.interparking-romania.ro
transport company, operating all Underground car park, next
buses, trams and trolley-buses in to Universitate Square. It is
Bucharest, as well as the popular connected to the Intercontinental
Bucharest City Tour Bus route. Hotel and the National Theater.
A route selector and an English Over 990 parking spaces
version of the website is available. available.

Bucharest City Tour Universității Car Park


wbucharestcitytour.ratb.ro a1 Toma Caragiu St.
This bus line is run by RATB and t+40314 381 859
serves downtown Bucharest and wwww.interparking-romania.ro
the best-known tourist spots in Underground car park, open 24/7,
Alphabetical Index 59

Alphabetical Index for the Full Edition

Car Rental  138 Eye Clinics & Hospitals  145


2 Mai  46 Car Sharing  139 Eyebrows  160
Carpenters  153
Air Conditioning Repairs  154 Catering & Delivery Services  114 F acts & Figures about Romania  14
Airport Essentials  94 Cernica  36 Families  89
Alba Iulia  28 Chambers of Commerce  131 Fashion Designers  160
Alba Iulia  43 Changing Times  61 Fashion Stores  143
Alcohol & Drug Addictions  161 Childbirth Care  157 Fast Food  106
All Around Romania  16 Children’s Hospitals  158 Fitness Centers  165
All Around Romania — Chinese Restaurants  106 Five-Star Hotels  118
Practical Listings  37 Cleaning Services  160 Food & Restaurants  86
American Restaurants Cleaning  156 Foreign Exchange  124
& Steak Houses  106 Climbing  165 Four-Star Hotels  118
Amusement Parks  150 Clubs  148 French Restaurants  107
Antique & Crafts Shops  145 Cluj-Napoca  26, 42 Fun & Entertainment  148
Apart Hotels & Short Term Coaching  129 Furniture & Home Design  144
Apartments  120 Comana  36 Fusion & Fine Dining  107
Architects  154 Constructors  154
Arieșeni  25, 41 Cooking  149 G ardening  156
Art Galleries  164 Corporate Event Venues  130 Gas Services  157
Auction Houses  163 Costume Shops  150 German Restaurants  107
Authorities  121 Countryside  67 Glassblowers  155
Azuga  41 Courier Services  156 Golf  166
Cultural Centers  162 Graphic Design  124
B aby Clothes  158 Culture & Arts  162 Greek Restaurants  107
Baby Sitting  159 Gura Portiței  46
Back To Romania  64 D ance & Parties  149
Banking & Money Wire  131 Danube Delta  34, 47 H airdressers & Beauty Centers  162
Beaches near Bucharest  36 Darts  165 Handymen  154
Beer Halls  116 Delicatessens & Bio  142 Health Care  145
Bike Rental  139 Dentists  146 History  12
Bran – Moeciu – Rucăr  41 Dermatology & Plastic Surgery  145 Horse Riding  164
Brașov  19, 38 Dialysis Centers  145 Hostels  120
British Restaurants  106 Discount Shops  140 Hotels & Travel  118
Bucharest Practical Handbook  70 Dobrogea  33 House & Home  95, 151
Bucovina  30, 44 Doftana Valley  24, 41 House Cleaning  156
Buftea  36 Do-It-Yourself Stores  144 House Repairs & Maintenance  153
Bulgarian Restaurants  106 Downtown  84 How to Use This Guide  3
Bus, Tram & Trolley-Bus Fares  92 HR & Head Hunters  126
Buses & Rental  140 E ating & Drinking  106 Hypermarkets and
Bușteni  41 Education & Language Lessons  133 Cash & Carries  140
Butchers  141 Eforie Nord  46
Buzău  17, 37 Electricity  156 Immigration  124
Elementary, Middle Schools Indian Restaurants  108
Cable TV  157 & High Schools  136 Insurance  131
Cafés & Tea Houses  114 Emergency Numbers  14 International Cuisine  108
Câmpina  41 English-Language Bookshops  150 Internet  157
Car Dealers  138 Escape Rooms  150 IT&C  126
Car Parking  140 Ethnic Food  142 Italian Restaurants  109
Car Registration  140 Expat Spouses  88
168 City
60 City
Compass
Compass

Pastry & Confectionery State-Owned Hospitals  145


Japanese Restaurants  110 Restaurants  112 Stock Market  124
Jewelry & Watch Shops  144 Pediatricians  158 Storage  153
Personal Care & Development  160 Strategy Consulting  126
K arting  165 Pharmacies  148 Subway  92
Key Cutting  154 Photographers  162 Supermarkets  140
Kids’ Entertainment  159 Pilates  165 Swimming Pools & Spas  165
Pipera  79
L actation Consultants  158 Plastic Surgery  161 T ailors  160
Law Firms  124 Plumbers  154 Tanning Salons  161
Lebanese Restaurants  110 Pool & Bowling  165 Tattoos  161
Legal & Business  121 PR  130 Tax Consultancy & Accounting  125
Letters from Editors  3 Practical Listings Directory  105 Tax  101
Letters from Romania  8 Prahova Valley  24 Taxis  93, 94, 138
Locksmiths  153 Predeal  41 Telephony  157
Long-Distance Buses & Rental  140 Pretzel Shops  141 Tennis  164
Private Clinics & Hospitals  145 Thai Restaurants  113
Mamaia  45 Property Management  152 Three-Star Hotels  120
Manicure  160 Public Notaries  130 Tourist Line  92
Maramureș  31, 45 Public Transport  91, 139 Toy & Baby Gear Shops  159
Massage  160 Pubs & Bars  116 Traditional Markets  141
Maternity Hospitals  157 Traditions  54
Maternity Wear  158 R ânca  25, 41 Translation Centers  129
MBAs & Higher Ed. Programs  137 Raw & Vegan Restaurants  112 Transport  91, 138
Mediterranean Restaurants  110 Real Estate Agencies  151 Transylvania  44
Mexican Restaurants  110 Recycling Centers  156 Travel Agencies  120
Ministrie  123 Restaurants  106 Turkish Restaurants  113
Mogoșoaia  36 Romania, a New Age  49
Moldavian Restaurants  110 Romanian Culture  50 University Programs in
Mongolian Restaurants  110 Romanian Language Lessons  137 Foreign Languages  137
Mountain Resorts  24 Romanian Restaurants  112 Upholsterers  154
Movie Theaters  149 Roof Repairs  156 Utilities  156
Moving Companies  152
Multicultural  59 S easide  34, 45 V adu  46
Museums  162 Security Companies  156 Vama Veche  46
Music & Theater  163 Shoe Repair  160 Vatra Dornei  25, 41
Music Shops & Lessons  151 Shoe Shops  144 Vietnamese Restaurants  114
Shopping Centers  143 Visa  101
N ear Bucharest  36, 47 Shopping  98, 140
Neighborhoods  71 Short Term Offices  130 W ashing Machine Repairs  154
NGOs & Various Institutions  163 Sibiu  20, 39 Watch Repairs  160
Night Buses  91 Sighișoara  29, 43 Water Delivery  155
Nursery Schools Sinaia  21, 40 Water Parks  150
& Kindergartens  133 Sky-Diving & Parachuting  164 Windows & Doors  153
Smoking Addiction  161 Wine Bars  116
O ld Customs & Places  57 Snagov  36
Old Town  72 Soccer  164 Yoga  162
Opticians  161 Spa & Beauty Centers  160
Other Mountain Resorts  41 Spanish Restaurants  113
Special Editions  7
Paintball  166 Spice Shops  142
Painting  154 Sports Gear Shops  164
Parking  93 Sports  164
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Everything you need to feel at home.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE FULL EDITION

City Compass
Romania:
Bucharest & Beyond
2016
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