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Old town of Mostar

Mostar is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, formerly one of the most ethnically diverse cities in
the country, and today suffering geographical division of ethnic groups. The city was the most
heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the
breakup of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed many important
buildings and structures, including the cultural and spiritual icon: The Old Bridge (Stari Most),
which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the
Neretva river in what is considered the historic center of the city. Through combined efforts with
the international community, rebuilding of The Old Bridge was completed in 2004, almost 11
years after its destruction, using some of its original pieces recovered from the Neretva river. A
significant portion of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be surprised to see that this
formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination once again, particularly the area within
and around the old town. However, many visible signs of Mostar's troubled recent history remain.

Get in[edit]
By bus[edit]

 1 Mostar Main (east) bus station (Autobuska stanica Mostar), Maršala Tita, Mostar
88000. 7AM-20PM. The main transit terminal for buses and trains, located on eastern part of
Mostar, close to Carinski bridge and University of Dzemal BIjedic. (updated Oct 2015 | edit)
 2 Mostar (west) bus station (Mostar - zapad), Vukovarska, Mostar 88000. 7AM-
21PM. Newly built bus station in northwestern part of Mostar (updated Oct 2015 | edit)
From Sarajevo[edit]
There are many buses (first at 06:00, last at 19:55 - approx. 1 per hour) from Sarajevo to Mostar.
There are also many buses from Mostar to Sarajevo (first at 06:00, last at 18:15 - approx. 1 per
hour). Journey takes 2,5 hours and costs 17-20 BAM (depends on bus company). Timetable is
available here, but not all buses are listed.
Other destinations[edit]
Bus timetables are online, but not all connections are listed. Frequent buses run between Mostar
and Ploče, Dubrovnik (2 per day, 3-4 hours, BAM30), Split (4 hours,
HRK125), Zagreb, Podgorica, Jajce (3.5-4 hours, BAM19), Banja Luka, Belgrade (2 per day) and
most cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Note that the stop in Mostar for the bus from Podgorica, which continues to Banja Luka, is several
kilometres from the city center on an expressway. A taxi from there costs BAM10.
By train[edit]

 3 Mostar train station (Željeznička stanica Mostar), Maršala Tita, Mostar 88000. Platforms
are opened 30 minutes before train departure. (updated Oct 2015 | edit)
From Sarajevo[edit]
There are two trains daily from Sarajevo to Čapljina via Mostar, leaving Sarajevo in the morning
and in the afternoon. In the other direction, there's an early morning train from Čapljina around
6AM in the morning and around 4PM in the afternoon. Schedules can be found the website
of ZFBH. The scenery on the train ride between Sarajevo and Mostar is stunning, passing
through rugged terrain with a series of tunnels, U-turns and viaducts. It is much more picturesque,
as well as cheaper, to travel between these cities by train rather than by bus.
One way ticket costs 11 KM (October 2017) and has to be purchased at least 5 minutes before
the scheduled departures.
From Croatia[edit]
There is no longer connection between Ploce and Mostar. There is also no more direct
connection between Zagreb and Mostar - you need to change in Sarajevo.
There is a regular bus connection from Dubrovnik for 126 kunas (October 2017).
By car[edit]
Mostar is easily reachable from Western Europe via Croatia. From, Zagreb take the A1 (green
signs for Karlovac, Split and Dubrovnik). There is a border crossing Nova Sela - Bijača, and the
motorway continues in Herzegovina until the end at Međugorje. Then just follow the signs to
Mostar on the remaining 30 or so kilometres of two-lane road. There are plans build a motorway
all the way to Mostar, but this might take several more years.
From Sarajevo it's a two-hour scenic drive through the Neretva river valley. This route is also
planned to be upgraded to a motorway.
By plane[edit]

 4 Mostar International Airport (Međunarodna zračna luka - Aerodrom Mostar), Ortiješ bb,
PP 04 88000 Mostar. (OMO IATA) is located in the village of Ortiješ, 7.4 km south southeast of
Mostar's railway station. There are seasonal flights to destinations
in Italyincluding Rome, Naples, Bari, Bologna (updated Oct 2015 | edit)
+-
500 m
Wikimedia maps | Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

43°20′25″N 17°48′16″E
Map of Mostar
See[edit]

The old town in Mostar

A smaller (Crooked) bridge in Mostar's old town

 1 The Old Bridge (Stari Most). 24/7. Originally built by the Turks in 1566, it was destroyed in
1993, but rebuilt in 2004. The bridge is the highlight of Mostar and is a UNESCO World
Heritage site. The bridge is 21 m high and you will frequently see members of the Mostar
Diving Club dive off the bridge. It is customary to give the divers a few marks after they make
the jump. Free. (updated Aug 2017 | edit)
 2 Old Bridge Museum (Next to the Old Bridge). Includes exhibits on the history of the bridge,
a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video
detailing the reconstruction of the bridge. It opened in 2006, commemorating the second
anniversary of the bridge's reconstruction. 5 BAM. (updated Aug 2017 | edit)
Muslibegovića House

 3 Muslibegovića House (Muslibegovića kuća) (located near the Karađoz Bey’s


Mosque). Open for visitors 15 April – 15 October from 10:00-18:00. Constructed 300 years
ago, it is considered the most beautiful house from Ottoman period in the Balkans. The house
is comprised of separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard – haremluk), and men
(men’s courtyard – selamluk). Unlike earlier architectural styles, this house resembled a four-
storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals
Mediterranean influence. The house preserved authentic monumental structure, items and
documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition
to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages or cookies, or spend a
night in this authentic surrounding. 4 BAM. edit
 4 Museum of Herzegovina (Muzej Hercegovine). Open 08:00-16:00... Has a small collection
of photographs from various phases of Mostar history, including a small exhibit on a native
son who was Prime Minister of Yugoslavia for 6 years. Also shows an excellent video on the
recent history of the Old Bridge. 5 BAM. edit
 5 Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque (Koski Mehmed-pašina džamija), Mala Tepa 16. Small but
simply pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618, destroyed during the war but rebuilt with Turkish
financial support. Climb the minaret to see a great view over the town. Ascending the minaret
is not recommended to those with claustrophobia, but the 192 step climb rewards with a
fantastic view on the Old Bridge. Entry: BAM 6, with minaret access: BAM 12. (updated Aug
2017 | edit)
 6 Karađoz Bey Mosque (Karađoz-begova džamija) (Old town). Ottoman mosque built in
1557; central mosque of Mostar. Entry: BAM3, with minaret access: BAM5. edit
 7 Cemetery (next to Karađoz Bey Mosque in the Old town). A park turned into a cemetery in
1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemeteries were inaccessible
due to the war. edit
 8 Ottoman house (Bišćevića kuća), Bišćevića Street. An Ottoman house, where you only
can see the few rooms in upstairs. 4 BAM. edit

Do[edit]
 1 Watch locals dive off the Old Bridge. Members of the Mostar Diving Club will dive off the
bridge into the emerald green waters, but first they will try to collect some money from
tourists. Do not attempt this yourself. The waters of river are at a constant 12°C, and going
suddenly from 30°C to 12°C can cause a heart attack among even the fittest. The young local
men diving would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before
diving. The best place to watch this is below Old Bridge on shore of Neretva river. edit
 2 Walk Along the Former Front-line, on Bulevar Revolucije. Here, in 1993 the city was
divided between Croats on the West and Bosniaks on the Eastern side. It is a surreal and
sobering experience to see the bombed out buildings which still stand in this area only 5m
from the division. edit
 Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish
coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge)
educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town
and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a
traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 1€, 2 marks or 8
Croatian kunas. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared
and how best to enjoy it.

Buy[edit]
The Bosnia and Herzegovina convertible mark (BAM) is pegged to the euro at a rate of €1 = BAM
1.95583. Shops and restaurants will accept euros at a 1:2 rate with the Bosnian convertible mark.
Croatian kuna are also widely accepted in Mostar, with 4:1 rate to BAM. Numerous banks have
their affiliates and ATM machines across the city. Most restaurants in the Old Town will accept
cards and there is ATM machine next to tourist company across Restaurant Kulluk and Europa.
From 2016, fast and free Wi-Fi provided by TGM is available in the vicinity of the Stari Most (Old
Bridge).

Eat[edit]
Budget[edit]

 National Restaurant Ćevabdžinica Tima - Irma, Onešćukova bb (Old Town), ☎ +387 62


958 539. Ćevapčići: €3. edit
 Pizzeria Roma (near Mercator shopping centre, not far from Zrinjski stadium). Great
pizza. edit
 Aščinica "Saray", Karađozbegova 3, ☎ +387 62 322 962. A great place to have cheap and
good dishes. Prices range between €2.5 to €6 for a really big meal. From BAM1. edit
Mid-range[edit]

 Aleksa (Club Aleksa), Ljubića 7 (In front of the hotel Bristol there is the little Ljubića Street.
Aleksa is at the end of the street, on the left.). Restaurant and café with a terrace on the river.
Is also the seat of Club Aleksa, in the name of the Mostarian poet. Local food, nice
atmosphere, many internationals go there. edit
 Dado, Trg 1. maja bb, ☎ +387 36 552 043. Delicious traditional Bosnian fare. €9 for 3 course
meal including wine. edit
 Hindin Han, Jusovina bb, ☎ +387 36 581 054. Highly recommended, although service is
slow. edit
 Kulluk, Kurluk 1, with direct view on Stari Most, ☎ +387 36 551 716. Great view overlooking
the Stari Most. (updated Jul 2017 | edit)
 Labirint, Kujundžiluk bb. Great view overlooking the Stari Most. Part of Hotel Bristol. edit
 M&M, Mostarskog bataljona 11 (across the Hotel Bristol). Decent rendition of a mixed
grill. BAM5-20.