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Figure: Section through fabric where warp angle is equal to 35°, W > F
Given: the angle of curvature of the warp is 35°, with the diameter of warp is greater
than that of the weft.
Find: the angle of curvature of the weft = ?
From Figure, F1W1 = F2W2, ∠ BW1W2 = 35°, (α)
∠W1 BW2 = 90°, ∠ W1 W2B = 90° – 35°
= 55°
∠ F1 W1 D= 90°, ∠ W2W1 F1 = 90° - 35°
= 55°
and line F1F2 and line W1W2 bisect each other, since by construction W1F1 equals W2F2
and are also parallel.
∠ F1 W1 C = ∠CW2F2 = 55°, and also
∠ F1 C W1 = ∠W2 CF2
Therefore, W1C = CW2 and F1C = CF2, since by construction the distance between W1
and W2 is equal to
W W
+ +F=W+F
2 2
W F W F
W2C = + , and the line W2F2 = +
2 2 2 2
Therefore, W2C = W2F2 and similarly, W1C = W1F1, thus giving two identical
isosceles triangles with two sides and the included angle are known.
This is sufficient information to calculate the filling angle of curvature.
∠W1 F1C = ∠ F1C W1
Therefore,
2 ∠W1 F1C + ∠ F1 W1 C = 180°, where ∠ F1 W1 C = 55°
2 ∠W1 F1C + 55° = 180°
180 − 55
∠W1 F1C = = 62.5°
2
∠W1 F1C is the complementary angle of angle β of the right triangle F1 DW1.
β = 180° – 90° – 62.5° = 27.5° which is the filling angle of curvature.
2. With the aid of a neat sketch, briefly discuss the ideal structure of a fabric in
comparison with the warp and weft curved structure of a fabric.
Solution
A perfect cloth, as defined by Aschenhurst, is the one that has equal curvature
of wrap and weft, but the form of yarn curve in the cloth is not so simple. The perfect
cloth may be defined by the equation, Tm = dk + ds, because the wrap-weft structure is
the thinnest structure. But according to Aschenhurts idea, the following formula
represents the perfect cloth or the ideal cloth.
Tk + Ts 3
= ( dk + ds) = TI ……………. (1)
2 2
TI is the thickness of the ideal cloth.
In the warp structured fabric, the thickness is the distance between the surfaces
of the wrap on both sides of the cloth. If a smooth surface is required on both sides of
the cloth, it is necessary that the surface of the warp and weft should lie on the two
geometrical plane on the face and both of the cloth. Therefore, the definition of the
perfect cloth determined by equation
Tm = TI = dk + ds
is more suitable than equation (1) because in if the yarn curvature is somewhat
different between the warp and weft yarns and also it can be easily understand by the
fact that
1
TI – Tm = ( dk + ds)
2
It may be said that the perfect cloth lies in between the warp structure and the
weft structure and may be near to either of them. The structure of this perfect cloth
1
differ from the warp-weft structure by an amount equal to ( dk + ds). Only in the
2
case where dk = ds this structure is the typical warp-weft structure. If it has the same
density of warp and weft, then the structure is the same as Aschenhurst’s perfect
cloth.
The position of the ideal structure given by equation (1) varies within the range of the
warp structure and weft structure according to the diameter difference the warp and
weft yarns. When the warp-weft structure is taken as the standard,
(1) if dk > ds, the structure will be nearer to the warp structure than the warp-weft
1
structure by as much as ( dk + ds)
2
(2) if dk < ds, the structure will be nearer to the weft structure than the warp-weft
1
structure by as much as ( dk + ds). When the warp structure is taken as the standard,
2
1
(3) if dk < ds, Tk – TI = ( dk - ds), which means that the position of the perfect cloth
2
stands nearer to the warp-weft structure than the warp structure.
Figure (a) TI structure Figure (b) TI structure Figure (c) TI structure
dk > ds dk = ds dk < ds
rk = rs rk = rs rk = rs
Ideal Structure
Projection of L1 = P2 = MB + BC cos θ1 + CN
1 1
= D sin θ1+ (L1 - Dθ1) cos θ1 + D sin θ1
2 2
= (L1 - Dθ1) cos θ1 + D sin θ1 ………….. (1)
P2 = D sin θ} 1
P1= D sin θ2 ………………. (2)
From Figure (1),
Projection of warp on to a vertical plane
MA = O1A – O1M = DN
1 1
= D- D cos θ1
2 2
1
= D (1 – cos θ1)
2
LN = BC sin θ1
= (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1
Projection of L1 = h1 = MA + LN + DN
1 1
= D (1 – cos θ1) + (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1 + D (1 – cos θ1)
2 2
h1 = (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1 + D (1 – cos θ1) ………………. (3)
2 2
28 28β
1− + 1− =1 ………………. (12)
(1 + β) k 1 (1 + β)k 2
4. With the help of a neat sketch of a float jam in 2 up 4 down twill weave, according
to Love’s theory, develop an equation for a jammed condition.
Solution
P (1+C)
d πd πd πd πd d
2 8 4 4 8 2
Pf Pi P
P = thread spacing at each intersections
nPa − ( n − i)d oa
P= ………………. (1)
i
I. Distance or space covered by one repeat of weave =
Total distance covered by Total distance covered by threads in excess
+
Intersections of intersections
II. At jamming condition, thread deformation is considered, and the warp thread
spaving at each intersection will be
Pi = M (Pa1 – dca1) + doa1 ……………….. (3)
2
III. For twill at jam, from Figure, the average warp diameter, dca1, will be
4
π 1 1 π π π π 1 1 π
+ + + + + + + + + d
dca1 = 8 2 2 8 4 4 8 2 2 8 oa1
6
( 2 + π)
dca1 = doa1
6
dca1 = 0.8569 doa1 …………….. (4)
doa1 = 1.1669 dca1 ..…………… (5)
32 .6747 d ca 1
M( − d ca 1 ) + 1.1669 d ca 1
= k a1
1.1669 d ca 1 (1 + β)
32 .6747
M( −1) +1.1669
= k a1
1.1669 (1 + β)
Similarly,
32 .6747
P2 M ( −1) +1.1669 β
= k a1
D
1.1669 (1 + β)
The equation for jammed structure is
2 2
P P
1− 1 + 1− 2 =1
D D
2
Equation for a jammed Twill structure is
4
2
32 .6747
2
32 .6747
M( −1) +1.1669 M ( −1) +1.1669 β
k a1 k a1
1 − + 1 − =1
1.1669 (1 +β ) 1 . 1669 (1 +β )
5. In the study of the configuration of threads in woven fabrics, many different forms
of thread geometry have been established. Fully discuss, in comparison, Peirce’s
approach and the modification of Kemp in establishing the equation for (a) thread
spacing, p, (b) maximum displacement, h, (c) yarn crimp, c, for both wrap and weft
respectively of a plain woven structure.
Solution
Perice assumed circular thread cross- section ( Figure (a) and (b)).
Figure (a) Peirce’s circular thread Figure (b) Peirce’s Twin-arc Geometry
Geometry-weft section
It was necessary to take into account the thread flattening that normally
occurred during weaving. A fabric geometry based on elliptical thread geometry
(Figure (c)) is two complex & laborious in operation
where R′1 = 2
4h 1
P2′
tan θ′ = tan-1
2R 1′ − h 1
Returning to the complete geometry, total yarn length (L′1 ) is given by
L1 = L′1 + (a2 – b2)
& fractional warp crimp C1 by,
L1
C1 = -1
P2
intersection
coarp
- Two threads having a tendency of moving apart from each other in Bncaks in weave.
28 ×d 28 x diameter
k= p
=
Thread spacing
Ts = dk + 2 ds
dk
ds ds
dk
Ts
ds
dk
Ts
Ts = 2dk + ds
ds dk ds
dk
Tk
dk
Tk
ds
(i) Square cloth
- the warp and filling arc of the same diameter, d1 = d2 = d
- same pick and sley, epi = ppi
- equal angle of curvature, θ1 = θ2 = θ
L1 = L2 = L
P1 = P2 = P
= b
a
b = miner diameter of flattened thread
a = major diameter of flattened thread