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MINISTRY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT OF TECHNICAL AND VOCATIONAL EDUCATION


GOVERNMENT TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGES/INSTITUTES
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Final Examination for B.E. (2006)
18-10-2006 (Wednesday) 8:30 a.m. – 11:30
a.m.
TE 05034 Fabric Analysis (Sample Answer)
Answer Any Five Questions
1. A plain woven fabric is constructed such that the warp and weft yarn form unequal
angle of curvature at each intersection. If the angle of culture of the wrap is 35°, the
diameter of wrap being greater than of the weft, find the angle of curvature of the
weft.
Solution
A plain woven fabric is constructed such that the warp and weft yarn form
unequal angle of curvature at each intersection. If the angle of curvature of the warp is
35°, the diameter of warp being greater than that of the waft, find the angle of
curvature of the weft.

Figure: Section through fabric where warp angle is equal to 35°, W > F
Given: the angle of curvature of the warp is 35°, with the diameter of warp is greater
than that of the weft.
Find: the angle of curvature of the weft = ?
From Figure, F1W1 = F2W2, ∠ BW1W2 = 35°, (α)
∠W1 BW2 = 90°, ∠ W1 W2B = 90° – 35°
= 55°
∠ F1 W1 D= 90°, ∠ W2W1 F1 = 90° - 35°
= 55°
and line F1F2 and line W1W2 bisect each other, since by construction W1F1 equals W2F2
and are also parallel.
∠ F1 W1 C = ∠CW2F2 = 55°, and also
∠ F1 C W1 = ∠W2 CF2
Therefore, W1C = CW2 and F1C = CF2, since by construction the distance between W1
and W2 is equal to
W W
+ +F=W+F
2 2
W F W F
W2C = + , and the line W2F2 = +
2 2 2 2
Therefore, W2C = W2F2 and similarly, W1C = W1F1, thus giving two identical
isosceles triangles with two sides and the included angle are known.
This is sufficient information to calculate the filling angle of curvature.
∠W1 F1C = ∠ F1C W1
Therefore,
2 ∠W1 F1C + ∠ F1 W1 C = 180°, where ∠ F1 W1 C = 55°
2 ∠W1 F1C + 55° = 180°
180 − 55
∠W1 F1C = = 62.5°
2
∠W1 F1C is the complementary angle of angle β of the right triangle F1 DW1.
β = 180° – 90° – 62.5° = 27.5° which is the filling angle of curvature.

2. With the aid of a neat sketch, briefly discuss the ideal structure of a fabric in
comparison with the warp and weft curved structure of a fabric.
Solution
A perfect cloth, as defined by Aschenhurst, is the one that has equal curvature
of wrap and weft, but the form of yarn curve in the cloth is not so simple. The perfect
cloth may be defined by the equation, Tm = dk + ds, because the wrap-weft structure is
the thinnest structure. But according to Aschenhurts idea, the following formula
represents the perfect cloth or the ideal cloth.
Tk + Ts 3
= ( dk + ds) = TI ……………. (1)
2 2
TI is the thickness of the ideal cloth.
In the warp structured fabric, the thickness is the distance between the surfaces
of the wrap on both sides of the cloth. If a smooth surface is required on both sides of
the cloth, it is necessary that the surface of the warp and weft should lie on the two
geometrical plane on the face and both of the cloth. Therefore, the definition of the
perfect cloth determined by equation
Tm = TI = dk + ds
is more suitable than equation (1) because in if the yarn curvature is somewhat
different between the warp and weft yarns and also it can be easily understand by the
fact that
1
TI – Tm = ( dk + ds)
2
It may be said that the perfect cloth lies in between the warp structure and the
weft structure and may be near to either of them. The structure of this perfect cloth

1
differ from the warp-weft structure by an amount equal to ( dk + ds). Only in the
2
case where dk = ds this structure is the typical warp-weft structure. If it has the same
density of warp and weft, then the structure is the same as Aschenhurst’s perfect
cloth.
The position of the ideal structure given by equation (1) varies within the range of the
warp structure and weft structure according to the diameter difference the warp and
weft yarns. When the warp-weft structure is taken as the standard,
(1) if dk > ds, the structure will be nearer to the warp structure than the warp-weft
1
structure by as much as ( dk + ds)
2
(2) if dk < ds, the structure will be nearer to the weft structure than the warp-weft
1
structure by as much as ( dk + ds). When the warp structure is taken as the standard,
2
1
(3) if dk < ds, Tk – TI = ( dk - ds), which means that the position of the perfect cloth
2
stands nearer to the warp-weft structure than the warp structure.
Figure (a) TI structure Figure (b) TI structure Figure (c) TI structure
dk > ds dk = ds dk < ds
rk = rs rk = rs rk = rs
Ideal Structure

Figure (d) Tmstructure Figure (e) Tm structure Figure (g) Tm structure


dk > ds dk = ds dk < ds
rk ≠ rs rk = rs rk ≠ rs
Warp-Weft Structure
3. What is the general equation for the jammed condition of a woven fabric? Derive
the equation that will represent the jammed condition of a plain woven structure in
terms of k1, k2 and β and k1 and k2 are wrap and weft cover factor, and β is the
diameter ratio.
Solution

In jammed condition, the straight section BC of modular length (L 1) in Figure


(1) become zero and ‘θ1’ reaches maximum value of jamming condition.
Here, L1 = length of AD
ie, BC = 0
L1 - Dθ1 = 0
L1
L1 = Dθ1 or θ1 =
D
From Figure (1),
Projection of warp on to a horizontal plane
1
Length of AB = Dθ1 = length of CD
2
BC = L1 – AB - CD
1 1
= L1 - Dθ1 - Dθ1
2 2
= L1 - Dθ1

Projection of L1 = P2 = MB + BC cos θ1 + CN
1 1
= D sin θ1+ (L1 - Dθ1) cos θ1 + D sin θ1
2 2
= (L1 - Dθ1) cos θ1 + D sin θ1 ………….. (1)

For jammed condition equation (1) becomes (from Figure 2)


0
P2 = (L1 - Dθ1) cos θ1 + D sin θ1

P2 = D sin θ} 1
P1= D sin θ2 ………………. (2)
From Figure (1),
Projection of warp on to a vertical plane
MA = O1A – O1M = DN
1 1
= D- D cos θ1
2 2
1
= D (1 – cos θ1)
2

LN = BC sin θ1
= (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1

Projection of L1 = h1 = MA + LN + DN
1 1
= D (1 – cos θ1) + (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1 + D (1 – cos θ1)
2 2
h1 = (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1 + D (1 – cos θ1) ………………. (3)

At jammed condition, equation (3) becomes


0
h1 = (L1 - D θ1) sin θ1 + D (1 – cos θ1)
h1 = D (1 – cos θ1})
h2 = D (1 – cos θ2) …………………. (4)
From equation (4),
h1 = D (1 – cos θ1)
h1 = D – D cos θ1)
D - h1 = D cos θ1 = h}2
and D – h2 = D cos θ2 = h1 ……………… (5)
since D = h1 + h2
D - h1 = h2
D - h2 = h1
By squaring and adding equation (2) and (5),
P22 + (D - h1)2 = D2 sin2 θ1 + D2 sin2 θ1
0
P22 + h22 = D2 (sin2 θ1 + cos2 θ1)
P22 + h22 = D2}
or P12 + h12 = D2 ……………….. (6), for jammed structure
when both warp and weft are in jamming condition,
P2 = D sin θ1 & P1 = D sin θ2
P2 P1
or = sin θ1 & = sin θ2
D D

and h1 = D (1 – cos θ1) & h2 = D (1 – cos θ2)


= D – D cos θ1 = D – D cos θ2)

D – cos θ1 = D - h1 & D – cos θ2 = D – h2


D − h1 D −h2
cos θ1 = cos θ2 =
D D
h h2
=1- 1 =1-
D D
By adding, h1 + h2
h1 + h2 = D (1 – cos θ1) + D (1 – cos θ2)
= D – D cos θ1 + D – D cos θ2
h1 + h2 = 2D – D (cos θ1 + cos θ2)
D (cos θ1 + cos θ2) = 2D – (h1 + h2)
= 2D – D
D (cos θ1 + cos θ2) = D
D
cos θ1 + cos θ2 = =1 ………………… (7)
D
or By adding cos θ1 + cos θ2,
h h
cos θ1 + cos θ2 = 1 - 1 + 1- 2
D D
h1 + h 2
=2–( )
D
D
=2-
D
cos θ1 + cos θ2 = 1 ……………………. (8)
Equation (8) can be written as
1 − sin 2 θ1 + 1 − sin 2 θ 2 = 1 sin2 θ + cos2 θ = 1
cos2 θ = 1- sin2 θ
cos θ = 1 −sin 2 θ
2 2
P  P 
i.e., 1 −  2  +
 1− 1  = 1 ……………. (9)
 D  D
(general equation for a jammed condition of a plain fabric)
d2 N1
β= = = count ratio or yarn balance
d1 N2
Since D = d1 + d2
D = d1 + βd1 = d1 (1 + β)
D
or d1 = 1 +β
also D = d1 + d2
d2
= + d2
β
d + βd 2
= 2
β
d (1 +β)
= 2
β

d2 = 1 +β
d1 D 1
at jamming condition, warp cover factor k1 = 28 = 28 x 1 +β x
P1 P1
P1 28
or = ……………. (10)
D (1 +β)k 1
d2 Dβ 1
weft cover factor, k2 = 28 = 28 x 1 +β x
P2 P2
P2 28 β
or = ……………. (11)
D (1 +β)k 2
Equation (9) become,

2 2
 28   28β 
1−  + 1−  =1 ………………. (12)
(1 + β) k 1  (1 + β)k 2 

4. With the help of a neat sketch of a float jam in 2 up 4 down twill weave, according
to Love’s theory, develop an equation for a jammed condition.
Solution

d/2 πd/8 πd/8 d/2

P (1+C)

d πd πd πd πd d
2 8 4 4 8 2

Pf Pi P
P = thread spacing at each intersections
nPa − ( n − i)d oa
P= ………………. (1)
i
I. Distance or space covered by one repeat of weave =
Total distance covered by Total distance covered by threads in excess
+
Intersections of intersections

Distance covered by one repeat = nPa


Distance covered by intersections in one repeat = Pi
Distance covered by threads in excess of intersections = (n-i) doa
nPa = Pi + (n-i) doa
n n
P= Pa - doa = MPa - M doa + doa
i i
P = M (Pa - doa) + doa ……………….. (2)

II. At jamming condition, thread deformation is considered, and the warp thread
spaving at each intersection will be
Pi = M (Pa1 – dca1) + doa1 ……………….. (3)
2
III. For twill at jam, from Figure, the average warp diameter, dca1, will be
4

 π 1 1 π π π π 1 1 π
 + + + + + + + + + d
dca1 =  8 2 2 8 4 4 8 2 2 8  oa1
6
( 2 + π)
dca1 = doa1
6
dca1 = 0.8569 doa1 …………….. (4)
doa1 = 1.1669 dca1 ..…………… (5)

IV. At jamming condition


d oa 1
cover factor of average warp yarn, ka1 = 28 x
Pa1
1.1669 d ca 1 32 .6747 d ca 1
k1 at jam = 28 x =
Pa1 Pa1
32 .6747 d ca 1
Pa1 = ……………… (6)
k a1
d oa 2
Also D = doa1 + doa2, and β =
d oa 1
Thus, D = doa1 + βdoa1
D = doa1 (1 + β)
D = 1.1669 dca1 (1+ β) ……………….. (7)

VI Dividing equation (3) by equation (7),


P1 M (Pa1 − d ca 1 ) + d oa 1
= and by substituting equation (4), (5), (6)
D d ca 1 (1 + β)

32 .6747 d ca 1
M( − d ca 1 ) + 1.1669 d ca 1
= k a1
1.1669 d ca 1 (1 + β)

32 .6747
M( −1) +1.1669
= k a1
1.1669 (1 + β)

Similarly,
 32 .6747 
P2 M ( −1) +1.1669 β
=  k a1 
D
1.1669 (1 + β)
The equation for jammed structure is

2 2
P  P 
1−  1  + 1−  2  =1
D  D

2
Equation for a jammed Twill structure is
4

2
 32 .6747
2
  32 .6747  
M( −1) +1.1669  M ( −1) +1.1669 β 
 k a1   k a1  
1 −  + 1 −  =1
 1.1669 (1 +β )   1 . 1669 (1 +β ) 

 
  
 

5. In the study of the configuration of threads in woven fabrics, many different forms
of thread geometry have been established. Fully discuss, in comparison, Peirce’s
approach and the modification of Kemp in establishing the equation for (a) thread
spacing, p, (b) maximum displacement, h, (c) yarn crimp, c, for both wrap and weft
respectively of a plain woven structure.
Solution
Perice assumed circular thread cross- section ( Figure (a) and (b)).
Figure (a) Peirce’s circular thread Figure (b) Peirce’s Twin-arc Geometry
Geometry-weft section
It was necessary to take into account the thread flattening that normally
occurred during weaving. A fabric geometry based on elliptical thread geometry
(Figure (c)) is two complex & laborious in operation

Figure (c) Peirce’s Elliptical Thread Geometry


replacing the circular-thread diameter with the miner diameter of the appropriate
elliptic section ( Figure (d)). It was adequate for reasonably open fabrics. It did not
permit of application of jammed structure

Figure (d) Peirce’s Approximate Treatment of Flattened Threads


Kemp modified cross-section shape, racetrack section Figure (e). It consists of
a rectangle enclosed by two semi-circular ends

Figure (e) Kemp’s Racetrack Section Geometry


Within the partial geometry, crimp-wave height (h1) remains unchanged, but
weft spaving (P2) and warp yarn length (L1) become P′2 and L′1 respectively.
P′2 = P2 – (a2 – b2)
While, given h1, L′1 may be calculated by using any suitable crimp formula, e.g.,
Peirce’s appropriate formula
4
h1 = P2 C1
3
L1 = P2 (c1 + 1)
2
9 h1
L1 = P2 [1 + ]
16 ( P2′ ) 2
2
9 h1
L′1 = P′2 [1 + ]
16 ( P2′ ) 2
or Peirce’s Twin-arc geometry,
L′1 = 2R′1 θ′1
(P ′ ) 2 + h 1
2

where R′1 = 2
4h 1
 P2′ 
tan θ′ = tan-1  
 2R 1′ − h 1 
Returning to the complete geometry, total yarn length (L′1 ) is given by
L1 = L′1 + (a2 – b2)
& fractional warp crimp C1 by,
L1
C1 = -1
P2

6. Define the followings,


(a) Same shed, (b) Breaks in weave, (c) Cover factor,
(d) Fabric balance, (e) Yarn balance, (f) Weave factor,
(g) Weft-faced plain cloths, (h) Warp-faced plain cloths,
(i) Square cloth, and (j) Peirce’s thread-flatting coefficient.
Solution
(a) Same shed
- same threads lie in one shed/ thread lies between two intersections
- Two threads having a tendency of approaching each other in same shed

intersection
coarp

Figure: Same Shed


(b) Breaks in weave

- Two threads having a tendency of moving apart from each other in Bncaks in weave.

(c) Cover factor


The proportion of fabric area covered by the actual yarn.

n Threads per inch


cover factor, k = =
N count

28 ×d 28 x diameter
k= p
=
Thread spacing

(d) Fabric balance


k1
α =
k2

(e) Yarn balance


b2 N1
β= =
b1 N2

(f) Weave factor


no. of threads (weave unit)/repeat
nr
M= = no. of intersection units/repeat
ni

(g) Weft-faced plain cloths


- the warp is forming a straight line
- the weft is forming crimpy or wary lines

Ts = dk + 2 ds

dk
ds ds
dk

Ts

ds
dk
Ts

(h) Warp-faced plain cloths


- the weft is forming a straight line
- the warp is bent over and under the weft

Ts = 2dk + ds
ds dk ds

dk

Tk

dk
Tk

ds
(i) Square cloth
- the warp and filling arc of the same diameter, d1 = d2 = d
- same pick and sley, epi = ppi
- equal angle of curvature, θ1 = θ2 = θ
L1 = L2 = L
P1 = P2 = P

(j) Peirce’s thread-flatting coefficient

= b
a
b = miner diameter of flattened thread
a = major diameter of flattened thread

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