13.

021 – Marine Hydrodynamics, Fall 2004

Lecture 19

c 2004 MIT - Department of Ocean Engineering, All rights reserved.

Copyright °

13.021 - Marine Hydrodynamics

Lecture 19

Water Waves
Exact (nonlinear) governing equations for surface gravity waves
assuming potential theory
y Free surface definition:
y = η(x,z,t) or F(x,y,z,t) = 0

z B(x,y,z,t) = 0

Unknown variables:
*
Velocity field: v (x, y, z, t) = ∇φ (x, y, z, t)
Position of free surface: η (x, z, t) or F (x, y, z, t)
Pressure field: p (x, y, z, t)

Field equation:
Continuity: ∇2 φ = 0 y < η or F < 0
Given φ can calculate p: ∂φ
∂t
+ 12 |∇φ|2 + p−pa
ρ
+ gy = 0; y < η or F < 0
Far way, no disturbance: ∂φ/∂t, ∇φ → 0 and p = pa − ρgy
|{z} |{z}
atmospheric hydrostatic

1
Boundary Conditions:

1. On an impervious boundary B (x, y, z, t) = 0, we have KBC:

* ∂φ * ³* ´ ³* ´
v · n̂ = ∇φ · n̂ = = U x, t · n̂ x, t = Un on B = 0
∂n
Alternatively: a particle P on B remains on B, i.e. B is a material surface; e.g. if P is on B at
t = t0 , i.e.

B(~xP , t0 ) = 0, then B(~xP (t), t0 ) = 0 for all t,

so that, following P, B = 0.

DB ∂B
∴ = + (∇φ · ∇) B = 0 on B = 0
Dt ∂t
For example, flat bottom at y = −h:

∂φ/∂y = 0 on y = −h or B : y + h = 0

2. On the free surface, y = η or F = y − η(x, z, t) = 0 we have KBC and DBC.

KBC: free surface is a material surface, no perpendicular relative velocity to free surface, particle
on free surface remains on free surface:

DF D ∂φ ∂η ∂φ ∂η ∂φ ∂η
=0= (y − η) = − − − on y = η
Dt Dt ∂y ∂t ∂x |{z}
∂x ∂z |{z}
∂z |{z}
|{z} still
vertical slope slope
unknown
velocity of f.s. of f.s.

DBC: p = pa on y = η or F = 0. Apply Bernoulli equation at y = η:

∂φ 1
+ |∇φ|2 + g η = 0 on y = η (assuming pa = 0)
∂t 2
| {z } |{z}
still unknown
non-linear term

2
Linearized (Airy) Wave Theory
Consider small amplitude waves: (small free surface slope)

Wave height crest

H
Wave amplitude A = H/2
SWL

wavelength
Water depth h Wave period T
trough
λ

A
Assume amplitude small compared to wavelength, i.e., << 1.
λ
φ η
Consequently: 2 , << 1, and we keep only linear terms in φ, η.
λ /T λ

∂
For example: ()|y=η = ()y=0 + η ()| + . . . Taylor series
| {z } | ∂y {z y=0}
keep
discard

3
Finally the boundary value problem is described by:

∂ 2φ ∂φ
+g =0
∂t 2
∂y
y=0
∇ 2φ = 0
y = -h

∂φ
=0
∂y

Linear (Airy) Waves

Constant finite depth h Infinite depth

(1) GE: ∇2 φ = 0, −h < y < 0 ∇2 φ = 0, y < 0

∂φ
(2) BKBC: ∂y
= 0, y = −h ∇φ → 0, y → −∞



(3a) FSKBC: ∂φ
= ∂η , y=0 
∂y ∂t 2
(3) ∂∂t2φ + g ∂φ
∂y
= 0, y = 0


(3b) FSDBC: ∂φ
∂t
+ gη = 0, y = 0 

4
 Constant finite depth h {Infinite depth}
© 2 ª
∇2 φ = 0, −h < y < 0 ∇ φ = 0, y < 0 (1)
∂φ
= 0, y = −h {∇φ → 0, y → −∞} (2)
∂y
½ 2 ¾
∂ 2φ ∂φ ∂ φ ∂φ
+ g = 0, y = 0 +g = 0, y = 0 (3)
∂t2 ∂y ∂t2 ∂y

Given φ :

¯ ( ¯ )
1 ∂φ ¯¯ 1 ∂φ ¯¯
η (x, t) = − η (x, t) = − (4)
g ∂t ¯y=0 g ∂t ¯y=0
 

 

∂φ  ∂φ 
p − pa = −ρ − ρgy p − pa = −ρ − ρgy (5)
|{z}
| {z∂t} hydrostatic 
 |{z} 
| {z∂t} hydrostatic
 
dynamic dynamic

Solution of 2D Periodic Plane Progressive Waves(using separation of variables)

Math . . . (solve (1), (2), (3)). Answer:
½ ¾
gA cosh k (y + h) gA ky
φ= sin (kx − ωt) φ= sin (kx − ωt) e
ω cosh kh ω
 
 
η |{z}
= A cos (kx − ωt) η |{z}
= A cos (kx − ωt)
 
using (4) using(4)

where A is the wave amplitude = H/2.

5
1. At t = 0 (say), η = A cos kx → periodic in x with wavelength: λ = 2π/k units of λ : [L]

λ
k = wavenumber = 2 /λ
K [L-1]
x

2. At x = 0 (say), η = A cos ωt → periodic in t with period: T = 2π/ω units of T : [T ]

ω = frequency = 2 /T [T-1], e.g. rad/sec

t

£ ¡ ¢¤ £L¤
3. η = A cos k x − ωk t units of ω
k
: T

ω ³ω ´
Following a point with velocity , i.e. xp = t + const. the phase of η does not change:
k k
ω λ
= ≡ Vp ≡ phase velocity.
k T

6
Dispersion Relationship
So far, any ω, k combination is allowed. Must satisfy FSBC, substitute φ into equation (3):

−ω 2 cosh kh + gk sinh kh = 0,
which gives:

© 2 ª
ω 2 = gk tanh kh ω = gk (6)
| {z }
Dispersion Relationship

Given k (and h) → ω.
Given ω (and h), . . .
Dispersion relationship (6) uniquely relates ω and k, given h: ω = ω(k; h) or k = k(ω; h)

C
kh ω2h
C ≡ = (kh) tanh (kh)
g |{z}
from (6)
1 tanh kh
C
= tanh kh
kh
→ obtain unique solution for k
kh
kh =f(c)

In general: (k ↑ as ω ↑) or (λ ↑ as T ↑).

r ½ r ¾
λ ω g g
= Vp = = tanh kh Vp =
T k k k

Also: Vp ↑ as T ↑ or λ ↑.

For fixed k (or λ), Vp ↑ as h ↑ ( from shallow to deeper water)

Vp = Vp (k) or Vp (ω) → frequency dispersion

7
Solution of the Dispersion Relationship : ω 2 = gk tanh kh
Property of tanh kh:

sinh kh
tanh kh =
cosh kh ½
1 − e−2kh ∼ kh for kh << 1, i.e. h << λ ( long waves or shallow water)
= = λ
1 + e−2kh 1 for kh >∼ 3, i.e. kh > π → h > 2
( short waves or deep water)(e.g. tanh 3 = 0.995)

Deep water waves Intermediate depth Shallow water waves

or short waves or wavelength or long waves
kh >> 1 Need to solve ω 2 = gk tanh kh kh << 1
(h >∼ λ/2) given ω, h for k (h/λ <∼ 1/20 in practice)

(given k, h for ω - easy!)

√
ω 2 = gk (a) Use tables or graphs (e.g.JNN fig.6.3) ω2 ∼
= gk · kh → ω = gh k
g 2 √
λ= T ω2 = gk tanh kh = gk∞ λ = gh T
2π
¡ ¢ k∞ λ Vp
λ(in ft.) ≈ 5.12T 2 (in sec.) ⇒ = = = tanh kh
k λ∞ Vp∞
(b) Use numerical approximation
r
ω g g ω λ p
Vp = = = λ (hand calculator, about 4 decimals ) Vp = = = gh
k ω 2π k T
i. Calculate C = ω 2 h/g
Frequency dispersion ii. If C > 2: ”deeper” ⇒ No frequency dispersion
2π 2 ω p
λ= V kh ≈ C(1 + 2e−2C − 12e−4C + . . .) = gh
g p k
If C < 2: ”shallower” ⇒
√
kh ≈ C(1 + 0.169C + 0.031C 2 + . . .)

8
Characteristics of a Linear Plane Progressive Wave

λ η(x,t) = y
2π Vp
k= A
λ MWL x
2π
ω=
T
H = 2A h

Define U ≡ ωA

Linear Solution:

Ag cosh k (y + h)
φ= sin (kx − ωt) ; η = A cos (kx − ωt)
ω cosh kh
with:
ω 2 = gk tanh kh

Velocity field:

∂φ Agk cosh k (y + h) ∂φ Agk sinh k (y + h)

u= = cos (kx − ωt) v= = sin (kx − ωt)
∂x ω cosh kh ∂y ω cosh kh
cosh k (y + h) sinh k (y + h)
= |{z}
Aω cos (kx − ωt) = |{z}
Aω sin (kx − ωt)
sinh kh sinh kh
U U

On y = 0:

1 ∂η
u = Uo = Aω cos (kx − ωt) v = Vo = Aω sin (kx − ωt) =
tanh kh
( ( ∂t
u cosh k (y + h) ∼ eky deep water v sinh k (y + h) ∼ e ky
deep water
= = y
Uo cosh kh ∼1 shallow water Vo sinh kh ∼ 1 + h shallow water

• u is in phase with η • v is out of phase with η

9
 Shallow water Intermediate water Deep water

Pressure Field: dynamic pressure pd = −ρ ∂φ

∂t
; total pressure p = pd − ρgy

cosh k (y + h)
pd = ρgη (no decay) pd = ρgA cos (kx − ωt) pd = ρgeky η
cosh kh
cosh k (y + h)
= ρg η
cosh kh
pd u
same picture as
pdo Uo
pd (−h) 1 pd (−h)
= = e−ky
pdo cosh kh pdo
£ ¤
p= ρg(η − y) p = ρg ηeky − y
| {z }
“hydrostatic” approximation

10
 Vp = gh Vp
(kh >> 1)

(kh << 1)
p pd ps
pd

Particle Orbit/ Velocity (Lagrangian).

Let xp (t), yp (t) be the position of the particle P, then xp (t) = x̄ + x0 (t); yp (t) = ȳ + y 0 (t) where (x̄; ȳ) is
the mean position of P.

P(xp,yp) vp ≈ v (x̄, ȳ, t) (x̄, ȳ)

dxp ∂u ∂u
(x, y) up = = u (x̄, ȳ, t) + (x̄, ȳ, t) x0 + (x̄, ȳ, t) y 0 + . . .
dt ∂x ∂y
(x’,y’) | {z }
ignore - linear theory

Z Z
cosh k (ȳ + h)
xp = x̄ + dt u (x̄, ȳ, t) = x̄ + dt ωA cos (kx̄ − ωt)
sinh kh
cosh k (ȳ + h)
x0 = −A sin (kx̄ − ωt)
Z sinh kh Z
sinh k (ȳ + h)
y 0 = dt v (x̄, ȳ, t) = dt ωA sin (kx̄ − ωt)
sinh kh
sinh k (ȳ + h)
=A cos (kx̄ − ωt) on ȳ = 0, y 0 = A cos (kx̄ − ωt) = η
sinh kh

x02 y 02 (xp − x̄)2 (yp − ȳ)2

+ = 1 or + =1
a2 b2 a2 b2

where a = A cosh k(ȳ+h)

sinh kh
; b = A sinh k(ȳ+h)
sinh kh
, i.e. the particle orbits form closed ellipses with horizontal and
vertical axes a and b.

11
 crest
Vp

ky
A
(a) deep water kh >> 1: a = b = Ae A
ky
circular orbits with radii Ae decreasing
exponentially with depth
trough
ky
Ae

A
Vp = gh
(b) shallow water kh << 1:

A y
a= = const. ; b = A(1+ )
kh h
decreases linearly
with depth A/kh

Vp

(c) Intermediate depth

P Vp
A
Q S Q S

R R R

λ
12
13
Summary of Plane Progressive Wave Characteristics

f (y) Deep water/ short waves Shallow water/ long waves

kh > π (say) kh << 1

cosh k(y+h)
= f1 (y) ∼ eky 1
cosh kh
e.g.pd

1
cosh k(y+h)
= f2 (y) ∼ eky kh
sinh kh
e.g.u, a

y
sinh k(y+h)
= f3 (y) ∼ eky 1+ h
sinh kh
e.g. v, b

14
C (x) = cos (kx − ωt) S (x) = sin (kx − ωt)

(in phase with η) (out of phase with η)

η
A
= C (x)

u v
Aω
= C (x) f2 (y) Aω
= S (x) f3 (y)

pd
ρgA
= C (x) f1 (y)

y0 x0
A
= C (x) f3 (y) A
= −S (x) f2 (y)

a b
A
= f2 (y) A
= f3 (y)

b
a

15