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A

Report on
Apparel Internship
(From 28th, May, 2018 to 01nd, Sept., 2018)

at
(Dress Master Apparel Private Limited-A Raymond Group Of
Company)

BY
ANKITA PAUL
KAVYAA K.
KUMUD THAKAN
RIYA JAISWAL

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY


JODHPUR, INDIA 342037
SEPTEMBER 20
Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

CERTIFICATE

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

DECLARATION

This is to declare that Ms. Ankita Paul, Ms. Kavyaa K., Ms. Kumud Thakan, Ms. Riya
Jaiswal (DFT-VII, 2015-19, NIFT Jodhpur) has completed their apparel internship in DRESS
MASTER APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED (A RAYMOND GROUP OF COMPANY,
BANGALORE) under my sole guidance and their work is purely original and no part of the
project has been copied from any report. However, any material taken from any other published
source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various places.

Date Dr. Ankur Saxena

(Associate Prof.)

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are extremely thankful to National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur and Dr. Vijaya
Deshmukh (Director of NIFT, Jodhpur) and our faculty mentor, Dr. Ankur Saxena (Associate
professor of NIFT, Jodhpur) for making this exercise in effect, with curriculum.
We are extremely grateful and indebted to Mr. Kaushal Narayan(Director of DMAPL), Mr. Pravin
Krishna Khot (Plant Head) and Mr. Piyush Raj, Mr. Navnender, Mr. Rajamanikaum, our mentors
at Dress Master Apparel Private Limited for giving us the opportunity for pursuing our internship
at DMAPL, (Unit of Raymond) and for their exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant
encouragement throughout the course of our internship.
We would also like to express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Pradeep and Mrs.Reshma, of HR and
Admin Department for helping us get the opportunity to pursue our internship at the company.
We would also like to express our gratitude to Mr.Pritam (Maintenance Head) for his support.
We also place on record, our sense of utmost gratitude to Mr. Piyush Raj. (Cutting Incharge) Mr.
Sathish (supervisor- cutting floor), Mrs. Madhiha (fabric& trim store incharge), Mr. Dyanshwar
Matre(technical incharge of jacket sewing foor) for helping us gain insight of the same and for
their support for the project that we undertook during the course of this internship.

Regards

ANKITA PAUL

KAVYAA K.

KUMUD THAKAN

RIYA JAISWAL

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

ABSTRACT

This report is a documentation on Apparel Manufacturing and processing. The report includes
all the major department of an Apparel industry, starting from trim & fabric store, cutting, sewing,
finishing & final packaging giving information about the machineries, process flow and
technologies applied.
While making this report we gained a lot of practical knowledge in garment sector. Use of
pictures & flow charts and simple and lucid language makes this report interesting and easy to
understand. This report also contains the details of project we implemented here.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Contents
Company Profile ....................................................................................................................................... 13
Organizational Structure ..................................................................................................................... 14
Brands .................................................................................................................................................... 15
Introduction- Dress Master Apparel Production Ltd. ........................................................................... 16
Unit Profile ............................................................................................................................................. 16
Unit Organization Structure ................................................................................................................ 17
PRODUCTS .............................................................................................................................................. 18
Departmental Flow ................................................................................................................................... 21
Fabric Store ............................................................................................................................................... 22
Process .................................................................................................................................................. 23
Checking .................................................................................................................................................. 24
Fabric inspection: ................................................................................................................................. 24
Staff workforce ...................................................................................................................................... 24
Quality Process in Fabric Store ......................................................................................................... 28
Trim store .................................................................................................................................................. 28
SOP of Trims stores: ........................................................................................................................... 29
Quality check for trims ......................................................................................................................... 31
Machines in the trim stores: ................................................................................................................ 31
Pattern Department.................................................................................................................................. 32
CAD Department ...................................................................................................................................... 33
Cutting Department .................................................................................................................................. 36
SOP of Cutting ...................................................................................................................................... 36
Spreading .................................................................................................................................................. 37
Cutting .................................................................................................................................................... 38
Numbering ............................................................................................................................................. 39
Quality Check........................................................................................................................................ 39
Spot fusing ............................................................................................................................................ 40
Fusing .................................................................................................................................................... 40
Bundling ................................................................................................................................................. 41
Operators with work profile ................................................................................................................. 41
Industrial Engineering .............................................................................................................................. 43

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

PROCESS FLOW OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT .............................................................. 45


PRODUCTION.......................................................................................................................................... 46
DOCUMENTS AVAILABLE ON THE PRODUCTION FLOORS ...................................................................... 46
WORK FLOW OF PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT ........................................................................ 50
WORKFORCE OF THE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT .............................................................. 50
LINE BALANCING ............................................................................................................................... 51
Important points to be considered in production: ............................................................................ 52
Warehouse (Finishing and packing) ...................................................................................................... 52
QUALITY DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................................................... 53
FABRIC STORE QUALITY PROCESS ............................................................................................ 53
CUTTING DEPARTMENT QUALITY PROCESS ........................................................................... 59
CAD ROOM........................................................................................................................................... 60
FIRST OF REPORT FOR JACKET AND TROUSER..................................................................... 60
PARAMETERS FOLLOWED TO CHECK THE DEFECTS IN A TROUSER LINE AT
VARIOUS STAGES. ............................................................................................................................ 61
PARAMETERS FOLLOWED TO CHECK DEFECTS IN A JACKECT LINE AT VARIOUS
STAGES ................................................................................................................................................ 64
QUALITY PROCESS FOR WAREHOUSE DEPARTMENT ......................................................... 67
PROJECTS ............................................................................................................................................... 69
1. Cutting Department ............................................................................................................................. 69
2. Sewing Department ............................................................................................................................. 69
3. Quality.................................................................................................................................................... 69
Cutting Department .................................................................................................................................. 70
PROJECTS ........................................................................................................................................... 73
1. End-Bit Record ............................................................................................................................. 73
2. Lay scheduling and table planning software requirement:- ................................................... 78
3. SORT &SHINE: In Slitting Area. .................................................................................................... 79
4. SQDM Board: .............................................................................................................................. 80
5. Skill Matrix Board ........................................................................................................................ 82
Sewing Department ................................................................................................................................. 84
PROJECT 1- PROCESS STANDARDISATION OF SEWING OPERATION USING METHOD
STUDY ................................................................................................................................................... 85

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

AIM: .................................................................................................................................................... 85
PROBLEM STATEMENT: ............................................................................................................... 85
NEED OF THE PROJECT: ............................................................................................................. 85
1.1 STANDARDISATION OF SEWING OPERATION ............................................................... 85
1.2 UNDERSTANDING THE PROCESS: .................................................................................... 85
1.3 DATA COLLECTION:................................................................................................................ 86
1.4 MOTION BREAKDOWN:.......................................................................................................... 86
1.5 IMPLEMENTATION: ................................................................................................................. 86
OBSERVATIONS: ............................................................................................................................ 86
RESULT:............................................................................................................................................ 91
PROJECT 2 – PROGRAMMING OF BUCK PRESS...................................................................... 92
PROJECT TITLE: ............................................................................................................................. 92
1.1 PROBLEM STATEMENT ......................................................................................................... 92
OBJECTIVE ...................................................................................................................................... 92
1.2 PROJECT CHARACTER ......................................................................................................... 93
LITRETURE REVIEW...................................................................................................................... 93
BEGINNING OF PROGRAMMING: .............................................................................................. 94
PHASE I: IDENTIFYING PROBLEMS .......................................................................................... 95
PHASE II: DATA COLLECTION & OBSERVATIONS ................................................................ 96
PHASE III: IDEA PROPOSITION .................................................................................................. 98
PHASE IV: IMPLEMENTATION .................................................................................................. 100
RESULTS ........................................................................................................................................ 101
COMPAISON TABLE .................................................................................................................... 101
Quality Department .............................................................................................................................. 103
Project 1 ........................................................................................................................................... 104
Aim of the project ........................................................................................................................... 104
Problem Statement ........................................................................................................................ 104
Probable solutions .......................................................................................................................... 105
BENEFITS OF PROCESS STANDARDIZATION ..................................................................... 106
IMPLEMENTATION ....................................................................................................................... 106
Project 2 ............................................................................................................................................... 107
AIM OF THE PROJECT ................................................................................................................ 107

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Project 3 ............................................................................................................................................... 119


Aim of the project ........................................................................................................................... 119
PROBLEM STATEMENT .............................................................................................................. 119
SOLUTION ...................................................................................................................................... 119

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Company Profile

Raymond Limited, the largest integrated manufacturer of worsted fabric in the world was
incorporated as the Raymond Woollen mill during the year 1925 in the area around Thane creek.
The company comprises in three business divisions, such as Textiles, Engineering and Aviation.

Suitings are available in India in over 400 towns through 30,000 retailers and an exclusive chain
is present in over 150 cities across India and overseas especially the products exports to over 55
countries including USA, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East. Lala Juggilal, Lala
Kailashpat Singhania took over The Raymond Woollen Mill in the year 1944.

This has now become the largest facility of its kind in the world. This was followed by a phase
of vertical integration, facilitating in the processing of multi-fibers and technology improvements to
make blended fabrics. Raymond.

Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in the year 1980; he injected fresh vigour
into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. Raymond achieved a rare
feat and a historical milestone with the creation of the world's finest worsted-suiting fabrics from the
finest wool ever produced in the world- The Super 230s made up of 11.8 micron of wool.

During the year 2006-2007, the company made joint venture with Italian apparel brand Grotto to
open 60 GAS exclusive brand outlets (EBOs). The equal joint venture between Raymond and
Italian fashion house Grotto is learnt to be in trouble less than two years after it was formed, Grotto
is learnt to be exploring the options of exiting the JV during August 2008.

Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look good
and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values creates a
warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.

At Raymond's consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in
pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in India.

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Branded Textiles
Suiting B2C shirting Made to measure

Page 14
(MTM)
Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Branded Apparel
Raymond Apparel (100%)
Dress Master suits
Garmenting
(100%)
Celebration Silver Spark
Apparel (100%) Apparel (1100%)
Ethiopia (100%)
Everblue Apparel (100%)
High value

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur


cottonShirting
Raymond Luxury Cotton (75.7%)
Tools
&Hardwear
JK Files (100%) JK Talabot (90%)
Organizational Structure

Auto
Denim Components Ring Plus Aqua (89.1%)
Division
Raymond UCO FMCG Business Segment
denim (50%) JK Helene JK Ansell923.8%) Associate
Curtis(47.7%)
Subsidiary
Joint venture
Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Brands
1. Domestic-

 Park Avenue
 Parx
 Nothing Hill

 ColorPlus

2.International-

 Jc Penney
 Express
 CT
 Peerless
 Pelstrom
 Sacoor Brothers
 Banana Republic
 Calvin Klein

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Introduction- Dress Master Apparel Production Ltd.


Dress Masters Apparel Production limited is a subsidiary of Raymond limited, established on
September 10th 2016 in Peenya(Zone-1). This new unit manufactures Jackets, Vest coat, and
Trousers catering to Domestic as well as Export markets.

The state of the art, manufacturing facilities at the plant, helps in producing .4 million Jackets, .3
million Trousers and 93 thousand Vest coat annually. With a total build -up area is 155461 Sq.
Ft. The Plant's forte lies in the manufacture of jacket.

The unit has a manufacturing capacity around 1000 suits (jacket, trouser and vest coat) and
shirts. There are 5 floors in the unit. The basement comprises of the fabric and trims store and
spreading and cutting section. The ground floor is warehouse. At 1st floor vest coat and jacket
are manufactured. At 2nd floor the trousers are manufactured.3rd floor is not in used but
recently it is in planning to convert it into jacket floor.4th floor is the canteen.

Unit Profile
NAME OF THE COMPANY RAYMONDS

NAME OF THE UNIT DRESS MASTERS APPAREL PRIVATE Ltd.

ADDRESS 5th main road ,3rd Phase ,Peenya


Banglore-560058
PH:080-66737654/70
HEAD OFFICE J.K. Gram ,Pokharan Road, Thane,(Maharashtra)

DIRECTOR Mr KAUSHAL NARAYAN


YEAR OF ESTABILISHMENT 10thSeptember 2015

NATURE OF BUSINESS Domestic as wellas Exporters


PRODUCT CATEGORY Jacket. Vest Coat, Trousers
MAIN EXPORT MARKET Japan ,US And Europe

BUYER Canada ,U.S, South Africa, Japan,U.K.

PRODUCTION CAPACITY 33800 Jacket/Month


19746 Trouser/ Month
7800 Vest coat/Month
AREA 155461 Sq. Ft.
Table 1.- Company Details

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Unit Organization Structure

Plant Head

Operations Support Functions

Fabric Store HR & Admin

Trim Store
Accounts

Suit Cutting

Maintenance
Jacket Sewing &
Finishing

Trouser Sewing &


IT(out Source)
Finishing

Quality Assurance

Warehouse

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

PRODUCTS
JACKET

Figure- 1 Jacket
Types of Jacket:

1.FULL CANVAS –The canvas front structure is first pad stitched together consisting of the
desired layers from chosen materials. It is then basted into the jacket front covering the majority
of the jacket and giving it the greatest possible stability and support.

2.HALF CANVAS – The fusing is used to support the section where the canvas does not reach,
the fusing is extended past the canvas only so there is no evidence of the finished line of fusing
and is excluded in the lapel. The canvas stops just below the pocket. A fused jacket is own that
has had glue applied to stiffen in an attempt to simulate canvas.

3.FULLY FUSED – There is no wool canvas and the chest piece is applied using the same
method as for the padded lap.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

TROUSERS

Figure- 2 Trousers
The different types of trousers made are:

 Double pleated

 Single pleated

 Flat front

 Trouser with lining

 Trouser without lining

 Trouser with bottom cuff

 Trouser with normal bottom hem

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

VEST COAT

Two types of vest coat form-

 Half lining

 Full lining

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Departmental Flow

Sample Approved

Order Customer/ Buyer


confirmed

Proto Sample

Pre- Production Marketing/


Sample( to pre Merchandising
production dept.) Dept.

Fabric Sample
Purchase
Cutting Dept. order to
Purchase Pattern
Making Dept.

Cutting Quality
check
Trims
Fabric &
Accessories
Sewing Dept. Store
Defects

Sewing Quality
Check

Finishing Dept.

Finishing Quality Warehousing Shipment


Check

Packing

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Fabric Store

Materials received from supplier

DC entry at security
gate

DC verify

Materials
confirmation Informing to purchase team through mail/phone
against VAT

Materials unloading

Storage at incoming goods area

Phy quantity Inform to purchase team for shortage


checking qty.

Return to supplier
Swatch Card making

Suppliers concern for return

Quality
Audit Keep in rejected area & inform to
supplier

GRN making as per Sent GRN copy to account


physical qty.

Materials phy shift to location Finishing trims

Sewing trims Prepare buyer wise trims

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Prepare buyer wise trims


card Approval of merchandiser

Approval of merchandiser
Check list preparation against BOM
Check list preparation against
BOM Requisition from line
Physical materials issue
against stage issue slip Stacking of issued materials in super market
Stacking of issued materials in
super market

Physical issued per


Physical issued per day day requirement to
requirement to line line

Total Manpower: 19
Daily Target for Jacket: 2430m
Daily Target for Trouser 2120m
Daily Target for Vest Coat 1180m
Inspection Machine 5 m/c
CSV Machine 1m/c Juki(SNLS)
Table 2.- Fabric Store Details

Process

Once the Raw material or fabric is been sent by the suppliers to the company and once they
reach In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material,
he/she checks the quantity of material in–house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e.,
he checks the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN(Goods
Received Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the document of
whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Checking

In this step, the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the formalities
regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process of receiving the goods
to in-house, there has to be another action which the fabric store has to take care of is the
situation of delivering the fabric to the other units and also to the cutting department of the same
unit.
This department receives the required documents of the production issues/exports and similar
other related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive this they enter the
details of the PO/export/process follow ups into the STAGE. The department then checks the
material availability with respect to the PO and other documents as per the merchants given
details. Then they look at the production issues/export and as per that two things are done.
First, they pick the material as per the approval that would have been given by the fabric audit
department and then they prepare the challan and keep it ready for issue to the cutting
department of the unit.

Fabric inspection:

 Complete visual inspection is been done by 4 point inspection system.

 They prepare 9 parameter report.

 100% checking for the shell fabric, 10% for the pocketing lining and fusing.

 They prepare CSV i.e. (centre to selvedge and selvedge to selvedge).

Staff workforce
Name Activity Undertaken Technology Used by
Operator
1. Lingaragu.L  Roll in inspection m/c Printer
 Receive material from E-mail
gate from truck Trolley

 Under loading fabric

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

from truck

2. Kamraju  Roll in inspection m/c Printer


 Receive material from E-mail
gate Trolley
 Under loading fabric
from truck
 Issuing fabric for cutting
 Job work
 Excel entry
 Ready Material
 Leading
3. Saniya  Roll in inspection m/c Printer
 Receive material from E-mail
gate Trolley
 Unloading fabric from
truck
 Issuing fabric for cutting
 Job work
 Excel Entry
 ready Material
 Loading
4. Sunita  Stage entry for issuing Printer
fabric E-Mail
 Job Work Trolley
 Excel Entry Stage entry
 ready Material
 Loading
 Material Status
 Prepare BOM report
 Updating Report
 Check Accounts tally

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

5. Manju  Re rolling of sample, Printer


pocket, canvas, shell E-mail
etc. Trolley
 Checking and re- rolling
sample fabric
 Helping quality people
in making shade card
 Helping in issuing re roll
fabric
6. Kempuanja  Issuing fabric for cutting Printer
 Job work E-mail
 Excel entry Trolley
 Ready Material
 Loading
7. Bhagya  Issuing fabric for cutting Printer
 Stage issue E-mail
Trolley
8. Bhagya  Issuing fabric for cutting

9.Lata  Making GRN E-mail


 Swatch card Trolley
 Helping in Sampling Stage entry
 Unloading responsibility

10. Asha  Width report handling Printer


 Sending inspection E-mail
report to cutting Trolley
department
 Width report entry in
stage
11. Lavanya  Issuing fabric for Printer
Sampling E-mail
 Physically checking Trolley
availability

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

 Checking width
report
 Issuing according
 Receiving sample fabric
 (making swatch card
and ledger entry)
12. Anusha  ABC analysis Printer
 Job work E-mail
 Excel entry Trolley
 Ready Material
 Loading
 Stage entry for issuing
fabric
Table 3.- Staff work load of Fabric store

A BOM report is prepared for the orders every 20 days by Sunita during 20th to 25th of every
month, to check the material status which is later updated daily.

 Unloading of the fabric from the truck takes place 7 times a day. It is done collectively by
Lingaragu.L, Saniya and Kamraju whosoever is available at that time.

 Also, fabric inspection of about 1000 to 1500 meters of fabric occurs per day per machine (5
machines in all). The loading of fabric roll onto machine is again done collectively by
Lingaragu.L, Saniya and Kamraju whosoever is available at that time.

 Manju does re-rolling of about 2000- 2500 meters of fabric occurs in a day.

NOTE -All the above values for time and frequency have been taken considering the average to
maximum possible value. The values may be less some days depending upon the order
quantity

Total No. of Machine 5


Speed of Machine 0.6m/min
Inspection speed 0.20/min
Total Power 1.8KN
Max Poll Die 350mm

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Stretch Adjustment 200N


Table 4-- Machine Details

Total No. of Lights 13


Total No. of Fans 4
Shrinkage Table 1
Length of the Table 72 inch
Width of the Table 48 inch
Rack for Fabric Storage 1
(shrinkage sample)
Table5-- Quality Equipment Details

Quality Process in Fabric Store

Fabric Roll Shrinkage and Report Approved


Received CSV Marker by Quality
Preparation Manager and
Merchandiser

100% Inspection Shade Band and Fabric Issued


for Shell 10% Width Report
Inspection of Preparation
Lining

If Lining Rejected Report Rejected or


then 100% Accepted
Inspection

Trim store
Trims are materials used to ornament or enhance garments. They are the visible parts of a
garment. Trims can be categorized as decorative and functional trims.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Trim store acts as a storehouse for accessories. It is the place where all the accessories
required are stored. Right from sewing threads, needles to packaging material like poly bags
and tapes etc. all are stored in the trims store

SOP of Trims stores:


Material received from the
supplier

DC entry at security gate

DC verify

Materials Informing to purchase team through


confirmation mail/phone
against VAT

Material unloading

Storage at incoming goods area

Physical Inform to purchase team for shortage


quantity check quantity

Return to supplier

Swath card making

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Suppliers concern for return

Quality Audit
Keep in rejected area & inform
to supplier

GRN making Sent GRN copy to account

Materials physically shift to


location
Sewing/Finishing segregate

Prepare buyer wise trim cards

Approval of merchandiser

Check list preparation against


BOM

Requisition from line

Stage entry against


requisition/work

Physical materials issue against


stage issue slip

Stacking of issued materials n


super market area

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Once the Raw material or Trims is been sent by the suppliers to the co company and once they
reach In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material,
he/she checks the quantity of material in–house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e.,
he checks the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN (Goods
Received Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the document of
whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made.

Quality check for trims


Zipper Color, length, puller, working condition etc.
Label Print quality, color, size etc.
Buttons Broken, without hole, color, size, thickness
etc.
Thread Color, No. of ply, ticket No. etc.
Elastic Width, stretch ability.
Twill Tape Width, weave structure, color
Hang Tags Size, color, size print quality etc.
Sizer Print quality, size.
Stickers Gum strength, colour, size print quality etc.
Polybag Measurement, print quality.
Table 6. - Quality criteria for Trims

Machines in the trim stores:


1. Weighing Machine – ESSae-DC-85
2. Winding Machine – S-1076

Total no. of racks: 6(A-F)

1. Rack A – Labels(All labels)


2. Rack B – Buttons
3. Rack C– Packing trims, Tag strip, Label pins

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

4. Rack D – Stationary
5. Rack E –Zippers, Stationary
6. Rack F – Waist band lining

Pattern Department

Pattern department is responsible for the particular fit or sizes of the garment in any garment
industry. Here, the patterns are arrived and then it is traced manually by the operator.

There are three operators working in this department; 2 works on the computer based and 1 do
the pattern work manually.

Tech pack is provided


to the department.

Patterns are made according Marking patterns are


to the tech pack formed

Pattern sent to the


CAD department

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

CAD Department
This is the process flow of CAD Department.

Figure - 3 SOP of CAD Dept.

 First the patterns are provided to the CAD by the Pattern department in order to plan the
cut order. Also the width report is sent to the CAD via mails so that the CAD department
can start planning according to the patterns. Till then the BOM file and the 10
parameters report is kept ready and is received by the CAD department as hard copy.
 Once the cut order plan is ready, the plan is passed to the marker making operator, who
plot the markers in an efficient manner. Next the consumption of the fabric is checked
and according to that rolls are been assigned.
After the fabric consumption is calculated and the rolls are assigned, the planner plans
the lays to be cut in each table according to the requirements. And then numbering
report is generated automatically through the software.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

 Lastly, as all these processes are done, the lay report and the numbering report, hard
copy of both are sent to the cutting room, lay report sheet to the spreading table and
numbering report sheet to the numbering table.

MRS is submitted to the fabric store for issuance of fabric; mentioning the full required quantity
which is issued at once except shell which is ordered color wise.

Fabric code Fabric type

A Shell

B Body lining/OBW

C Body fusing

D Main canvas

E Chest felt

F Sleeve head canvas

G Sleeve head felt

H Shoulder canvas

I Parts fusing

J UCF

K Knee lining

N Parts fusing

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

O Tape fusing

P Lapel fusing

U Pocketing

W Fusing

X Brest pocket fusing

Z Sleeve lining
Table-7 Fabric Codes

Parts in the garments:

Garment Parts

Jacket A,B,C,D,E,F,G.H,I,J,L,M,O,P,X

Trousers A,U,N,K

Vest coat A,B,I,O, Chest welt, Pocket bag,

2-pc suit Jacket + Trousers parts

3-pc suit Jacket + Trousers + Vest coat parts


Table-8 Parts in the Garments

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Cutting Department

SOP of Cutting

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Spreading
As the CAD department complete its job, and the lay report is send to the spreading table, the
operators start spreading the lays according to the planning.

Figure- 4 Spreading Sheet

In the lay report; the P.O. no of the order, style, total quantity, and the type of the garment is
mentioned. Other than this; marker length, sizes, total no. of plies in each lay and total no. of
garments in each lay is also included for the operator’s convenience.

Spreading was done manually and 2 operators were there in each spreading table. There
were 7 spreading table, within which 2 tables were for trousers, 4 for jacket and 1 table was
for trims. Each table had an end cutter to cut the plies. There were 2 pinning tables used for
spreading of checks and stripe fabric.

When there appeared any kind defects in the fabric, such as bowing, the lays are spread in
a particular angle to neutralize the defect and keep the lays straight, also instead of cutting it
with the end cutter, the operators tear is manually.

There were certain instructions that were discussed and provided to the operators for
more efficient spreading:-

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 For jacket- woollen fabric, lay height should be 1.26 inches maximum, and for other
fabrics it should be 1.8 inches. For trousers- woollen fabric, lay height should be 2.4
inches and for other fabrics its 3 inches.
 Jacket’s fabric with stripe and checks would have 5.2 meters to 6 meters lay length
whereas trousers fabric with stripe and checks would go with 5 meters to 6 meters. If
the fabric is solid, both jacket and trousers should be 5 meters.
 Usually 4 way marker is made for check and stripe fabric whereas for solid 6 way
marker can also be made.
 When there is running shade variation, fabric laying is done in face up direction.

Cutting
The spread lays were sent further on the table for cutting through the air holes. There were
three automatic Gerber cutters, GTxL and GT7250. The cutting machines have standard
setups of cotton and wool with standard inputs. 1 was used for the trousers line, 1 cutter for
the jacket line and 1 for the trims. Each cutter has one operator and one helper for
simultaneous loading of parts to numbering table.
4 band knife machines were used for collar blocks.
 CZD-900, Cutting Capacity=180 mm
 OSHIMA- OB-900A
There was a capacity of 30 plies for fabrics like velvet and corduroy, 50 plies for the jacket
shell fabric and 60 plies for jacket lining fabrics whereas for trousers the capacity was of 100
plies for shell fabric and 120 for the lining.

Cut perimeter per garment

Jacket – 2.67 m

Trousers – 1.28 m

Vest-coat – 0.53 m

2-Pc Suit – 3.95 m

3-Pc Suit – 4.48 m

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Numbering
Numbering is a process where serial numbers are put to the cut parts so that they are
easily identified in the sewing floor and also for avoiding the mix of the parts cut in the same
lot. It protects from shade variation. Here, the operation is done in two ways- one, by using
numbering machine which have white ink in it and second by ticketing machine which have
stickers in it. Ticketing machine Blitz, model- textile2253 is used.

There were 9 operators for numbering operation. Among this 2 were for trousers small
parts, 2 for trousers big parts and 5 for jacket big and small parts.

Quality Check
Before fusing and after numbering the parts are checked manually by the operators.
Checking is carried out for all the panels for jacket; lining and shell and Trouser shell and
small parts. A daily report is maintained regarding the defects found in each lot and
necessary cut parts are sent for re-cutting. Defects commonly checked for the shade
variation, weaving damage, slubs, knots, oil stains, holes, and stains amongst others.

Cutting Quality Process

Trousers all parts Jacket lining parts


Jacket shell parts

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Trousers

Parts No. of Checkers No. of parts checked

Before Fusing

Front and back panels 2 100% checking

Small parts, pocketing 1 Top, middle, end

After Fusing

Waist band 1 100% checking

Table- 9 Q.C. Trouser

Jacket

Parts No. of checkers No. of parts checked

Front and back panels 1 100% checking

Small parts 1 top, middle, bottom

Lining 1 100% checking

Table- 10 Q.C. Jacket

Spot fusing
Spot fusing was done before the waist band fusing so that the fusing doesn’t replace from its
original position. It is an electrical mechanism where the waist bands are temporarily fused from
start, middle and end part and when the parts move to the fusing machine they were attached
properly and best quality is delivered.

There were 4 operators working in the spot fusing.

Fusing
Four fusing machines of Weishi are available with temperature settings of 0-450 degree Celsius;
two for jackets, one for trouser and one for waist band.
Each machine of jacket had 9 operators; 4 for front and back panel, 3 for sleeves and lapel, 1
for small parts and 1 for collecting the fused material.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Bundling
Bundling is the last step before loading the cut parts onto the sewing floors. The bundle size is
pre-determined; trouser followed the 5- piece bundle system initially while the jacket parts are
bundled as per the lay size. The tag on the bundle describe the part name, style no, size no,
bundle no, serial of pieces, total no of pieces.

Operators with work profile


Spreading
Tanuja 8116
Shashikala 12153
Tara P. 9747
Manjula 8723
Vasantha C.V. 13188
Parvati 15623
Sumitra 10157
Mahadevamma 12307
Sunanda 9906
Kumari M. 14026
Cutting
Saumya 10001
Ramesh 10624
Mahender 12999
Numbering
Manjula 13421
Rajeshwery 14017
Nagmani 10623
Jyohi 14021
Kavya 13125
Varalakshmi 13904
Prema 11629
Asha 11313
Savitha K.R. 12129
Fusing

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Lakshmi Devamma 9614


Kamalamma 14055
Lakshmi 13683
Shilpa 13924
Jayamma 13907
Hareefa 8535
Nirmala 9455
Aribam Jamunadevi 12942
Shanthi 11414
Manjula 13051
Sarswathi 11339
Lakshmi N.L. 13226
Anjali Das 11432
Puttamma 14056
Ramya 14365
Shanthamma 10249
Ranjitha 13901
Jayamma 13699
Radhamani 19853
Manjamma 14057
Vani 11254
Thimmamma 13095
Savitharamma 11741
Mamatha R. 12277
Bhagyamma 12598
Sudharani 13621
Shwetha 13868
Nilamma 12367
Manjula 10854
Lakshmi 12677

Quality Check
Lakshmi 13213
Kalavati 13806

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Indaramma 13976
anju t.t. 14449
Nilamma k. 12573
Manjula m. 23412
Savitha 12783
Bundling
Umadevi 1166
Mahadevamma 13268
Rathnamma 13905
Mahalakshmi 9733
Mangala 11654
Shivamma 9798
Tanuja 14035
Yashodha 12157
Relaying
Vishala 14374
Poornima 14016
Re-cutting
Dakshanamurthi 12917
Band-knife
Kumar Swami 11782
Team Leader
Trousers Shruthi 11401
Jacket Tara 9747
Table- 11 Work force

Industrial Engineering
The Industrial Engineering department works towards increasing the production of the company
by minimizing the cost.
It is responsible for the following roles:
 The first and foremost role of the I.E is during the sampling stage. The IE department
suggests the Operation Breakdown of the style and calculates the SMV of the garment.

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 Based on the SMV, the production cost is calculated.


 Thread average is calculated by the formula :
 (seam length+ allowance)* ratio* frequency*0.254
 Where ratio is number of stitches in 1 unit of stitch length and frequency means that
number of times the stitch has to be done on 1 garment.
 This department allocates the grades of all the operators based on the quality of product
produced, time taken to produce the product, clarity of hand movements, hand eye
coordination and threading time taken by the operator. Based on the grades, per hour
rate of the operation is set.
 Most importantly, it plans the machine layout aimed to reduce the cycle time. If during
line setting, there is a difficulty in implementing the suggested operation breakdown and
the planned machine layout, the floor IE before changing anything consults the IE head.
 IE calculates the number of machines required for a style, the attachments to be used,
number of operators required to perform a particular operation. IE helps the supervisors
during line setting.
 IE calculates the targets for each operation as well as the complete target.
 It prepares a daily production report which mentions the number of pieces arrived from
cutting, number of pieces loaded, number of pieces on machine, number of pieces off
machine, number of pieces issued to the finishing department and number of pieces in
the packing department.
 The IE department conducts a daily audit for the following:
 Proper bobbin tension
 Proper threading on the machine
 Edge cutter machine covered with bags for wastage
 All scissors and cutter are bound with the machine
 Machine mocks with technical specification and sign
 Ok/ Not Ok mocks on the checking table
 How to measure and how to check pictorial documents on the checking table
 Specification sheet on the checking tale
 Approved standard sample on the checking table
 All the checking tables, machines and ironing tables are clean.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

PROCESS FLOW OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Production finally solution

Calculate SMV Merchandising department PPC department

Production cost Production planning

Technical analysis Merchandising department Incorporate sampling


before fit stage:- suggest
amendments (stamps)

Start thinking innovation Tool room

Receive sample for


thread consumption

Make operation bulletin Merchandising department Thread order


and calculate thread
consumption

Receive red tag sample

In depth study of style & Develop customize folder Tool room


construction an (Innovative)
engineering way

Prepare operation Prepare R&D and report


breakdown

Factors i.e. discusses and collects

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Prepare workstation layout M/C & work aid requirement to


maintain

Line setting according line Procure from maintenance


report

Capacity analysis and feed R&D analysis and feed back I.E. department
back

Production studies to increase Achieve target


efficiency

PRODUCTION
The production department is located on the first and the second floor of the unit. First is the
Jacket production and the second floor is the Trouser production.
In the first floor Jacket has the 3 Lines and 1 Vest coat and the second floor trouser has 4 lines.
All the lines are working on the unit production system.
Each line consists of the tailors, pressmen, helpers, quality checkers, line loader, supervisor and
assistant supervisors. The recorder takes note of the daily production output and the number of
garments issued for finishing each day. At the end of each shift, the line recorder is expected to
count the output and transfer the message to the floor I.E who prepares the daily production
report and conveys it to the Production Manager and the General Manager.
The line loader counts the number of pieces in a bundle and passes it to the operators. He
enters this number into a register, which is updated at frequent intervals.

DOCUMENTS AVAILABLE ON THE PRODUCTION FLOORS


 New style requirement sheet: This document incorporates the variety of machines
required for the successful fulfillment of the style. This document also states the capacity
of machines, and cutting tables required for the style. Along with this the quantity of irons,
needles, feed dogs, pressure feet, attachments, sewing guides, folders, profiles, dummies
are also mentioned. The number of equipment in house and the quantity to be ordered are
stated.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

 Operation Bulletin: This document contains all the possible operations to be performed,
along with the SMV, attachments used, grade of operator to be utilized and the desired
output. The OB here is prepared part wise, which means that all the operations for a single
part for instance front body is mentioned first. Then the complete operations for the next
part for instance, sleeves are mentioned. The line output which means the number of
operators required to perform a particular operation is stated which helps in balancing the
line.
 Machine Layout: This document is pictorial representation of how the machines have
been arranged for a particular line. By looking at this document, one can easily understand
the sequence in which the operations are performed.
 Critical operation sheet: This document mentions all the critical operations to be
performed for a particular line. These operations generally include sleeve to armhole
attachment, collar attachment, turning of collar, bottom hem, etc.
 Purchase order
 There are check points defined in the line where the garments are checked. Two
documents named: “what to measure?” and “how to measure?” are hung on the boards
attached to the checking table. These documents clearly show pictorially how each and
every parameter has to be measured. Apart from these, the approved trim card and the
comments on the PP sample are attached to the board. At the end of the line, at the check
point just prior to the finishing, a TOP sample/ Limit sample is hung. This acts as a
guideline for the quality checking.

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Flow Process of the Sewing line

Fabric comes from the Cutting department

Loader Loads the pannel in th line according to the lines bindle system (normally 10 pieces bundel
system)

Sewing is done in the line according to the line layout

Endline and In-line QA checks the garment and decide to

Pass garments are been collected for each line for the finishing and washing departments

At the Check points (In line and the end line) Following Documents are maintained at the
Quality checkers Table:

 Hourly Alteration Report


 Daily Alteration Report
 Measurement Check Report
 Pass Piece entry
 Dispatch Report

Different reports maintained on the inspection. The different reports were:

 Alteration Report
 Output Report
 Measurement Report

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

Documents Displayed at the Quality Checkers table

 Tack Pack
 Measurement Sheet + Allowance
 How to Measure
 Team Structure
 PPM Report
 Line Walk Report
 Trim Card
 Checking Guidelines
 Machine Adds

At the Check points (In line and the end line) Following Documents are maintained at the
Loading Table:

 Loading Report Hourly


 Loading Report Daily

Documents Displayed at the Loading table

 Operation Bulletin
 Line Layout
 NSR
 Critical Operation
 Shade Details for color coding
 Order Details

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WORK FLOW OF PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


Checking
Line layout
Machine Allotment of
Operation design for
requirement operations to
Breakdown maximum
according to operators
efficiency
operation

Inline Loading of cut


Final Inspection Pilot Run
Inspection pieces

Quality Dispatch for


Checking finishing

WORKFORCE OF THE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The production floor is managed by a production team which consist of General Manager.
These people stay on floor to working in order to meet target.
 Production Manager
 Technician
 Floor in-charge
 Supervisors
 Tailors
 Press men
 Helpers
 Line QA
 QC
 Industrial Engineer
 Mechanic

The supervisor is responsible for the entire line. He sets the assembly line with the help of the
IE and monitors the quality of the product produced. If the pieces are to be send for alterations,

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the QC informs the supervisor, who then sends the pieces to the respective operators. The
supervisor is responsible for the daily production. He balances the line on daily basis.

The technician along with the IE and the supervisor sets the line. He conducts the pilot run
where he orders the operators to produce 20-50 pieces. He trains the operators how to perform
the operations accurately. The problems in the production are analyzed, alternative methods are
suggested with the help of the IE, and combination of operations to reduce the lead time are
suggested. With the help of the IE, he allocates operators on machines based on their skill.

The floor in-charge guides and monitors the work of all the supervisors. In case of absence of
any operator, the floor in-charge suggests which operator can replace the absent operator. He
is free to pick up the operator from other lines as well.

LINE BALANCING
Line balancing is being done by the I.E, floor in- charge, line supervisor with the assistance of
the production manager. The reasons for line balancing are observed and stated as under:

 It is done for the smooth production flow.


 It keeps inventory costs low.
 It keeps price to low which turns into repeat sales.
 It means better production planning.
 It goals at keeping every operator working at maximum capacity.

After line balancing we get to know the labor requirement and it helps to achieve the target.
Now, the calculations are done so as to know the following:-

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Pitch time= total SAM/ no. of operators

No. of operators= (no. of pieces*SAM)/no. of working minutes

No. of pieces to be produced= (No. of working


minutes/SAM)*no. of operators.

Labor productivity= output of the line/no. of operators in a line.

Machine productivity= output of the line/ no. of machines in a


line

Important points to be considered in production:


 Man to machine ratio
 Prevention of bottlenecks
 Appropriate selection of operation according to the difficulty of the operation to be carried
out
 Easy movement of goods from one operation to another
 Correct placement of checkpoints.
 Most suitable attachment or folders are used on machines to reduce the time and
increase efficiency.

Warehouse (Finishing and packing)


Once the sewing department finished its job, the stitched pieces are brought to the warehouse.
It is the place where finishing and packing is done. In this factory, warehouse is situated in the
ground floor with the HR department and planning department.

After coming to the warehouse, the garments undergo many processes:-

1. Plastic of the label: To prevent color bleeding while washing, the plastics wrapped
around the labels are cut and removed.
2. Trimming: The extra threads that are left after the final finishing are trimmed off.
3. Measurement checking: Final measurement is checked to ensure there is no deviation in
the measurement from the required specification due to the post wash shrinkage.

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4. Alteration: If any alteration is required due to measurement problems and the problem
can be corrected, then the piece is resent for the alteration on the same floor, and once
it is altered the measurements are re-confirmed.
5. Pressing: Steam press is used for ironing.
6. Final checking: A final check is further done so as to assure the quality specification,
trims attachments, quality of stitching, measurement specification and other features that
may have been left out during previous inspection.
7. Packaging: Individual garments are brought in packaging section. They are then
individually packed and then put in carton as per buyer’s specification, for some hangers
are used and some are folded. Packing is done manually by hand held Tape Dispenser.
There are 25 racks (A-Y) and each rack has 6 sections, present stock was kept in racks
A-U and in racks V-Y; old stocks were kept.
There were 13 operators working on different operations in the warehouse.

The Finished Goods Store is common for the trouser garments as well as jackets. After
packaging and internal audit, the cartons are shifted to the finished goods store where
after external audit, they are sent for shipment.

QUALITY DEPARTMENT

FABRIC STORE QUALITY PROCESS


1. Arrival of the buyer lot truck.

2. Initial checking at the entry gate, i.e checking of the buyer whether it is the correct one or
not.

3. Then the lot is unloaded.

4. Then the number of rolls ordered and shipped is checked along with the meters allowed,
for the fabric.

5. These all details are checked with the help of a list provided by the buyer.

6. Fabric quality is checked by following the basic “12 parameters”

7. Fabric quality check report is then sent to the pattern making and cutting departments.

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8. In pattern making department, the pattern grid is then made according to the
requirements of the buyer.

A. INVOICE CARD AND 12 PARAMETER REPORT-

• There are 2 invoice cards in total, out of which one is for the fabric department and the
other one is for the merchandising department.

• The report for 12 parameters is also entered in the desktop of fabric store for their data
maintenance.

B. INTER-DEPARTMENTAL DOCUMENTATION-

• There are 2 reports for 12 parameters followed, where one is used by the CAD room and
other one by the cutting department.

• When the cutting is done for the specific order, the report is sent back to fabric
department.

• There are also different Trim cards, i.e.

1. For merchandiser

2. For trim store

3. For fabric store

4. For cutting dept.

5. For sewing dept.

6. For CAD.

C. 12 PARAMETER REPORT-
• Width Report (100% checking) –
o Contains information about width of fabric in all rolls
o During inspection width is measured 3 times
o Details are added on piece card and kept along with the roll
• Shade Report(100% checking) –
o Information about shade of each roll
o Swatches cut from each roll and put on card

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o Visual inspection and inspection using ‘Colour Matching Cabinet’


• Centre to Selvedge Variation (5% checking) –
o 4 Fabric swatches are cut along the width of the fabric at start of the roll
o And numbering is done
o 1st swatch is attached to 3rd swatch and 2nd swatch is connected to 4th swatch.

2 4 1 3

o After this, these 4 panels are joined selvedge to selvedge to check the shade variation
o Same swatches are cut out from the end of the roll and joint to swatches cut and joint at
start

2start 4start 1start 3start

2 end 4 end 1 end 3 end

o and if any defect is found marker is set according to that to avoid further shade variation
defects.
o Visual inspection and inspection using ‘Colour Matching Cabinet’
• Bowing Report (5% checking)–
o A weft thread is taken out
o It is kept in mind that the thread pulled out should be perpendicular to the selvedge
without any deviation.
• Shrinkage report(5% checking) –
o shrinkage test is done by passing swatch into fusing machines
o swatches are cut and marked(25cm) by using ‘shrinkage scale’
o Fusing is done on one swatch and steaming on other
o Shrinkage percentage is checked using the scale
• Inspection report(100% checking) –
o 4 point inspection system
o 20-24 points accepted per 100 square meter (as per buyer instruction)
o 4 Fabric inspection machines; 1 operator on each machine
Following are the defects covered under 4 point system:-
 Hole
 stain/soil
 missing ends

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 stop mark
 loose ends
 Knots
 Thick and thin yarn
 Pattas
 Double picks
 Lashing-in
 Streaks
 Distortion
 Filling bar
 Missing yarns
 Slubs/neps
 Yarn contamination
 Pick/snag
 Water marks
 Fold marks wrinkles
 Shade bag/variation
 Miss weaver/picks
 Bowing/skewing
 Pin holes
• Colour fastness card (1 roll checked) –
o 3 swatches are cut and stapled on card along with white cotton fabric
o 1st swatch is rubbed dry on cotton fabric
o 2nd swatch is rubbed wet on cotton fabric
o 3rd swatch is rubbed on cotton fabric by pouring solvent(white petrol) over it.
• Shade band card –
o Contains information regarding different shades of fabric in a lot
o Shades are assigned alphabets
• Face side card –
o Contains information about the face of the fabric
• Hand feel(100% checking) –
o Hand feel testing is done to check whether all the rolls in a lot has same hand feel
• One way/nap direction –
o Nap/direction of the fabric is written

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• Seam slippage –
o two swatches are stitched together to check the stability of the seam
D. EQUIPMENT
ACTIVITY EQUIPMENT QUANTITY
MANUALLY(FABRIC
WIDTH REPORT -
INSPECTION)
MANUALLY, SHADE
SHADE REPORT 1
BOX
CENTER TO
MANUALLY, SHADE
SELVEDGE 1
BOX
VARIATION
SHRINKAGE
SHRINKAGE SCALE 1
REPORT
BOWING REPORT T-SCALE 1
INSPECTION FABRIC INSPECTION
4
REPORT MACHINE
COLOR FASTNESS
CROCKMETER 1
CARD
MANUALLY, SHADE
SHADE AND CARD 1
BOX
Table- 12 Equipment
E. MANPOWER
ACTIVITY NO. OF OPERATOR
WIDTH REPORT 4 (FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE)
SHADE REPORT 1(testing lab)
Center to selvedge variation 1(testing lab)
Bowing report 1(testing lab)
Shrinkage report 1(testing lab)
Inspection report 4 (at each machine)
Color fastness card 1(testing lab)
Shade band card 1(testing lab)
Face side card 1(testing lab)

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Hand feel 1(testing lab)


One way/nap direction 1(testing lab)
Seam slippage 1
Table- 13 Manpower

F. FREQUENT OCCURRING DEFECTS


 Knots
 Slubs & neps
 Miss weave/ picks
 Yarn contamination

I. TRIM STORE QUALITY PROCES


A. PHYSICAL INSPECTION
1. Material arrives, physical inspection is done i.e. counting of trims is done and
matched with the BOM.
B. VISUAL INSPECTION
Trim inspection parameters:-
• Damage/broken
• Print missing
• Spelling mistake
• Weaving
• Excess or less glue
• Shape/width uneven
• Shade variation
• Article
• Dimension
• Design
• Fraying
• Thickness
• Roping
• Stain
• Colour
• Zipper tooth shape

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• Button size

AQL for trims is 2.5


Defected lot are send to buyer for approval
SAMPLE MAX. NO.
LOT/CONSOGNMENT
SIZE DEFECTS
51-90 13 0
91-150 20 1
151-280 32 2
281-500 50 3
501-1200 80 5
1201-3200 125 7
3201-10000 200 10
10001-35000 315 14
35001-150000 500 21
150001-more 500 21
Table- 14
C. Equipment and manpower
 Trims are checked manually
 1 operator checks trims
D. Frequent occurring defects
 Damage
 Shade variation
 Dimension
 Spelling mistake
 Missprint

CUTTING DEPARTMENT QUALITY PROCESS


A. Before spreading:-
o face side is checked and lays are spread face to face
B. After cutting:-
o 100% panel checking is done after cutting
o Defected panels are replaced

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o After bundling panels(all size) are matched with their patterns one picked from start, mid
and end
C. After fusing:-
o as soon as panel comes out of fusing machine fusing marks are checked
o panels(all size) are matched with their patterns to check shrinkage one picked from start,
mid and end
D. Equipment and manpower
ACTIVITY EQUIPMENT MANPOWER
After cutting – panel Manually(using 2 for shell fabric, 2 for
checking (jacket) patterns), 2 tables lining
panel checking Manually(using 2 for big panels, 2 for
(trouser) patterns), 1 table small parts and lining
After fusing – fused
Manually 1
marks
Manually(using
Shrinkage check 1
patterns)
Table- 15

CAD ROOM
• Other fabric defects
o Defects like pattas or miss-weave are corrected here; when marker is created defected
area is left out
• CSV defect
o marker is made by putting panels which are visibly nearby (in pair) together
o eg:- left front and right front will be placed together
• Shrinkage defect
o Shrinkage percentage calculated at the time of shrikage test is entered in the software

FIRST OF REPORT FOR JACKET AND TROUSER


 After the material arrives on the sewing floor, all the cut parts are checked using the
specifications given by the buyer.
 And first off report is made
 It consists the specifications about trims, style and all the measurements.

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A. FIRST OFF REPORT


B. Style checklist- includes detailed description of garment style; eg:- front flat trouser
or pleated etc
C. Trim checklist- includes description of trims; eg:-knee lining type, zipper type etc
D. Labels- what kind of labels is to be attached; eg:- wash care label, size label etc
E. Packing trims- trims used during packaging; eg:- size tag, price tag etc

PARAMETERS FOLLOWED TO CHECK THE DEFECTS IN A TROUSER LINE AT VARIOUS


STAGES.
Checking process on the trouser floor:-
• There are 4 sewing lines in trouser department.
• There are 3 check points in between all the lines of the trouser.
• Different check points where a trouser is checked are as follows:-
• Side seam
• In line inspection
• End line inspection
• Packaging and price tag attach.
A. INLINE CHECKING
INLINE CHECKING AREA DEFECTS
1.Wrong size label 13.Fly shapeout
2.Pocket pointed puckering 14.Waistband width uneven

3.Back pocket bag pointed improper 15.W/B extension shape improper

4.Front pocket facing width uneven 16.Hook and bar placement

5.Sideseam or inseam puckering 17.Back rise puckering


6.Seam margin uneven 18.J-stitch puckering
7.Loop attaching symmetry off 19.Checks/ stripes mismatch
8.Waistband puckering 20.Shade variation
9.Waistband lining drop uneven 21.Back dart slant
10.Waistband open seam 22.Front pkt facing loose
11.Panel symmetry out 23.Back pkt high low
12.Slider up and down
Table- 16 Inline Checking

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B. ENDLINE CHECKING
END LINE CHECKING AREA DEFECTS
1. Button hole placement out 13. Side seam skip
2. Extension & fly button 14. Side seam puckering
misplaced
3. Label placement out 15.Waistband shapeout
4. Front pkt bartack misplaced 16. Waistband hem improper
5. Crotch finishing improper 17. Ditch stitch visible
6. Loop finishing improper 18. Waistband puckering
7. Bottom hem width uneven 19. Seam margin uneven
8. Bottom hem open or skip 20. Back pkt pointed
9. Bottom puckering 21. Back pkt overlapping
10. Serging open 22. Fly bartack slant
11. Pintack open 23. Missing operation
12. Back rise shapeout 24. Saddle stitch skip open uneven
Table- 17 End Line checking
C. FINAL AUDIT
TYPES OF DEFECTS
DEFECT NAME
INCLUDED
1. BROKEN/SKIPPED Side/ inseam
Pintacking
Buttonhole
Waistband
Loops
J-stitch
Bottom
2. UNEVEN Pleats
Front pkt topstitch
Loops
Waistband
J-stitch
Bottom hem

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Bottom cuff
3. Placement Button
Darts
Pockets
Loops
Label
Bartacks
Hook and eye
4. Mismatch Crotch joint
W/b lining stitch
Stripes or checks
Bottom hem
5. PUCKERING Sideseam or inseam
Waistband
Backrise
J-stitch
6. MEASUREMENT Panel up and down
Waist
Inseam
7.PRESSING Crease marks
Crease up and down
Dilute crease
Double crease
Shine impression
8. OTHERS Damage
Shaded part
Fabric defects
Wrong size label
Missing operation
Stain
Slider up and down
Trimming

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Dummy stitch

Table- 18 Final Audit

PARAMETERS FOLLOWED TO CHECK DEFECTS IN A JACKECT LINE AT


VARIOUS STAGES
Checking process on the jacket floor:-

 There are 3 sewing lines in the jacket department.

 The quality check points in the jacket line includes:-

 Front and back checking

 Lining inspection

 Sleeve inspection

 Assembly 1

 Assembly 2

 End line inspection

A. FRONT INSPECTION

FORNT SECTION DEFECTS


1. Shoulder seam bend 12. Flap shape out
2. Shoulder seam puckering 13. Flap lining out
3. Crown shape out 14. Flap checks/grain out
4. Armhole marking improper 15. Bone grain/mirror out
5. Chest loose 16.Waist pocket pinching
6. Dart bend 17. Seam margin uneven
7. Chest pocket width uneven 18. Puckering
8. CP checks/grain out 19.Bottom folding improper
9. CP zig-zag improper 20.Shade variation
10. CP dimp 21. Impression mark
11. Flap up-down 22. Pocket open
Table- 19 Front & Back Defect

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B. LINNING INSPECTION

LINING INSPECTION DEFECTS


1. Collar peak up-down 12.Main label puckering
2.Collar peak shape out 13.Triangular flap improper
3. Collar checks/stripe out 14.Seams puckering
4.Facing checks/stripe mirror out 15.Seams margin uneven
5.George seam bend 16.Bridle tape tight/loose
6.Neck lining puckering 17.Saddle stitch uneven
7.Collar stand width uneven 18.Saddle stitch open
8.Neck centre notch out 19.Piping uneven
9.Lining puckering 20.Fabric defect
10.Lining welt pkt smiling 21.Shade variation
11.Size label wrong 22.Other damages
Table- 20 Lining Inspection

C. ASSEMBLY 1 DEFECTS

ASSEMBLY 1 DEFECTS
D. Lapel shape out E. 12.Collar centre notch out
F. 2.Lapel peak up/down G. 13.Front edge piping improper
H. 3.Lapel peak piping reverse I. 14.Bottom shape out
J. 4.Lapel peak shape out K. 15.Bottom lining open
L. 5.Lapel check/stripes out M. 16.Bottom tack miss
N. 6.Collar shape out O. 17.Bottom lining out in length
P. 7.Collar felt visible Q. 18.Lining joint out to body
R. 8.George seam bend S. 19.Impression mark
T. 9.Collar loose U. 20.Vent open pleat
V. 10.Collar zig-zag improper W. 21.Damages
X. 11.Collar check out to body
Table- 21 Assembly 1 Defects

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D. ASSEMBLY 2 DEFECTS

ASSEMBLY 2 DEFECTS
1.Sleeve attach margin uneven 9.Sleeve break
2.Notch out 10.In sleeve loose/hanging
3.Sleeve crown dimp 11.Sleeve armhole pleat
4.Sleeve crown shape out 12.Sleeve gap uneven
5.Front armhole fullness 13.Front tight
6.Back armhole fullness 14.Checks out
7.Under armhole fullness 15.Size label wrong
8.Sleeve balance out 16.Front shape off
Table - 22 Assembly 2 defects

E. ENDLINE INSPECTION PARAMETERS

INSIDE INSPECTION

1.Lining a/h open

2.Lining a/h pleat

3.Lining puckering

4.Vent kinari open

5.Slv kinari open

6.Slv lining bottom open

7.Lining bottom open

8.Label puckering

9.Facing loose

10.Lining pkt smiling

11.Saddle stitch uneven

Table- 23 End line Inspection

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TOP SIDE INSPECTION


1.Shoulder pad folding 12.Slv dent 23.Waist pkt pinching
2.Crown shape out 13.Collar loose 24.Top stitch uneven
14.Collar peak shape
3.A/h visible stitich 25.Bottom shape out
out
4.Chest loose 15.Collar felt open 26.Pick stitch uneven
5.Slv balance out 16.Collar step bend 27.Checks or stripes out
17.Collar zig zag
6.In slv hanging 28.Bottom hole slant
improper
18.George seam
7.Slv tack tight 29.Bridal shape pinching
bend
8.Front a/h fullness 19.Lapel peak band 30.Trimming
9.Back a/h fullness 20.Lapel shape out
10.Slv break 21.Lapel break
11.Slv vent up down 22.Front loose
Table- 24 Tope Side Inspection

QUALITY PROCESS FOR WAREHOUSE DEPARTMENT


 First the completely packed garment (trouser or jacket) comes from its respective
department through the conveyor.
 Then it is being checked again by the warehouse department for any visible defects.
 Then the garments are separated according to their size and style and then put in their
respective racks.
 The sizes are set as the smallest size in the front and last size kept in the back of the
rack.
 The main label, size tag and size ring should match for all the same size and style.
 When 90% production comes down through conveyor, the internal audit is done and if
there are any modifications, they are sent back.
 At last, when 100% production comes in the warehouse dept., the external audit is done
by the buyer also.
 Internal audit occurs
 External audit

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ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LIMIT


• The following AQL are usually applied unless otherwise instructed by the client:-
 For Critical defects: AQL 0.0
 For Major defects: AQL 2.5
 For Minor defects: AQL 4.0
DEFECTIVE
AT AQL 2.5 AT AQL 4.0
SAMPLES
( MAJOR) (MINOR)
ACCEPTED
MAX.
MAX. N
SIZE IN SAMPLE N SAMPLE
DEFEC
UNITS SIZE DEFE SIZE
TS
CTS
51-90 13 0 13 1
91-150 20 1 20 2
151-280 32 2 32 3
281-500 50 3 50 5
501-1200 80 5 80 7
1201-3200 125 7 125 10
3201-10000 200 10 200 14
10001-
315 14 315 21
35000
35001-
500 21 315 21
150000
150001-
500 21 315 21
MORE
Table -25 AQL Limit

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PROJECTS

1. Cutting Department

2. Sewing Department

3. Quality

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Cutting Department

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We took 1 week for analyzing the problems in the cutting department. After 1 week we
concluded with the following problems and come up with some ideas to resolve it.
Problem statements
No streamlining in the cutting room:-
1. There are 7 spreading tables and 3 cutting tables. Among these 1 table and cutter is only
used for trims.
2. The remaining 6 are not segregated according to the lines.
3. For example: - an order with P.O. No. 201890 is spread in three tables, shell in table 1,
lining in table 2 and fusing in table 3.
4. This creates confusion and leads to over-spreading of some orders.
5. Lines are needed to be segregated and a flow from start to end of the processes is needed
in the cutting room.

No end-bit records kept:-

1. After spreading the lay, the end bit that is left behind is thrown under the table with meters
left and roll no. written on it.
2. Then the re-cutter operator takes the end-bits, and it is kept under the re-cutter tables for
further requirements.

Figure:5 End Bit Details

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3. Then when the re-cutting is needed from that end-bit, the operator search for the same
shade and it takes a long time to search and match the shade.

Figure: 6 End Bits


4. This results in increasing the lead time and sometimes in shade variation.
5. Thus a proper end-bit record is needed to be maintained in order to avoid shade variation
after re-cutting and decreasing the searching lead time.

Lay scheduling and table planning software requirement:-


1. As table planning is an essential part of streamlining, a proper plan should be made of what
to cut first and in which table.
2. No table planning was being done in the cutting room, and thus the work-flow was very
messy.

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PROJECTS

1. End-Bit Record

Objective-
To maintain the daily record of End-Bit while spreading lays in cutting department to reduce the
retrieval time and defects for re-cutting the panels.

After analyzing and critically examining the existing procedure, the following observations were
made,
 Fabrics are stored unevenly
under the re-cutting table.
 No. record is maintained while
spreading fabric of End-Bit.
 On end-bit only length is
mentioned.
 Enormous time to identify
materials for retrieval.
 Sometime shade variation
occurs. Figure- 7 End bit

Methodology:
 Observing all the activities in the spreading area, and re-cutting table of jacket and
trousers.
 Analyzing and list out the various activities that appear in the spreading area, and re-cutting
table of jacket and trousers.
 Identifying the Problems.
 Changing the record book of spreading and re-cutting record book.
 Making an End-bit tag with important details written.

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 Comparison of before and after.

Figure:8 Time study for end bit

Problem Analysis:

 Average retrieval time of end-bit for the re-cutting fabric is 2 min 71 sec.
 This much time is wasted in searching and matching the end-bit to re-cut a panel.

Suggestion:
 The spreading table operators are provided a booklet in order to keep the end-bit record.
 Also a slip will be provided to them that will be stick in the end-bit with P.O. no., shade,
and end-bit meter records. So that the information will be easily conveyed to the re-
cutter and there will be less retrieval time in searching the end-bit and then shade
matching.

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Figure-9 Format of booklet


 We suggested these two formats, one to keep the end bit record and the other one
is to decrease the retrieval time.

Figure-10 End Bit Sticker


 The picture above will be stick to the end-bit and send to the re-cutter.

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Solution:

(i) Booklet made for keeping records of the end bit.

(ii) End-Bit Meters, Roll no. and Shade written in the end bit.

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Figure-14 New End time retrieval time

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2. Lay scheduling and table planning software requirement:-

How to work:
• This software is the new version used for lay planning, roll assigning as well as table
planning.

• As the initial data will be entered such as order name, P.O number, colour, etc. and a
model name is provided, a new order will be ready to plan.

• First, the lay will be planned and the system will give the consumption according to the
plan made. It may be automatic or manual.

• Once the marker is prepared and the required data is provided, table planning will be
done.

• For roll assignment, an excel data with descriptions of rolls will be needed from the fabric
store. When the excel sheet will be imported to the software, it will automatically assign
the rolls.

Flow chart:

Figure-15 Process Chart

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3. SORT &SHINE: In Slitting Area.

Objective:
 To simplify work environment, reduce waste and non-value-added activity while improving
quality efficiency.

After analyzing and critically examining the existing slitting area, the following observations were
made,
 Fabrics are stored unevenly in the slitting
area.
 Uneven arrangement of fabric rolls.
 After use the roll is improperly placed on the
floor.
 Enormous time to identify materials for
retrieval.
.
Figure- 16 Slitting room

Methodology:
 Observing all the activities in the slitting area
 Analyzing and list out the various activities that appear in the slitting area.
 Identifying the waste.
 Preparation of waste with their correct one
so that the waste is distinguished.
 Comparison of before and after condition.

Solution:
 A boundary is constructed in order to bind
the rolls in a particular area.
Figure- 17 New Arrangement
 Dustbin is replaced in a range of the worker so that he can easily use it.

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Existing Proposed Benefits

For already used rolls and


Frequently used rolls and used empty rolls dustbin is provided Easy retrieval of rolls.
rolls get mixed easily. in the range of the workers. Timely processing of slitting.
Frequently used rolls are sorted
and placed.

Storage of the rolls was much


messier in the whole slitting A proper wooden boundary Proper sitting and walking area
room. There was even no made to keep the rolls in a fixed available.
proper passage due to the rolls area. Correct utilization of the area.
spread in the room.

4. SQDM Board:
S – Safety
Q – Quality
D – Delivery
M – Morale

Objective:
To maintain the daily record of cutting department workers absenteeism and safety, defects per
hundred is calculated for quality, and cut panels ready to issue to the production floor for
delivery.

Methodology:
 Analyze the number of workers in cutting department, quality parameters used for is DHU
for Jacket, Trouser and Vest coat individually and the inventory of cut panels for each line
for Jacket, Trousers and vest coat.
 Prepare a month wise format for daily record of SQDM.

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 Update the details on daily basis to know whether the target for each day can be
Achieved or not.

Safety:
 This data helps to know the safety
of workers in the store.
 They are mentioned with three
different colors.
 Green – safe day
 Yellow – mild injury (nearly miss)
 Red – serious injury Figure - 18 SQDCM Board

Quality:
 This show the defects per hundred units report of the month.

In cutting room the quality is calculated through DHU, so the two months average% is

Month DHU
Trousers Jacket

July 3.5% 3.3%

August 3.4% 2.8%

clearly mentioned in this table.

Delivery:
 This is the daily production graph of the individual production in a month.

Month Average delivery


650
July
655
August
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Cost:
 This is calculated by the product of the delivery and cost of per meter fabric.

Morale:
 It shows the absenteeism.
 Total no. of operators in the cutting room= 74
 Daily average absenteeism= 6
 This shows, absenteeism is not a big issue in the cutting room.

Month Average absenteeism

July 6

4
August

Benefits:
 It helped to record the present situation of the cutting
room.
 From this data it clearly shows that fabric store process
needs improvement.

5. Skill Matrix Board


Time study for operator’s efficiency:
Time study of each operator is done in order to get their efficiency
and also time study for each operation to get the SAM of the
operation. Formula used to get efficiency is:
Performance = (Output*SAM)/on std. time
Utilization = on standard time/ off standard time
Efficiency = Performance*Utilization

Figure – 19 Skill Matrix Board

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Operator name - Savitha


Operation - Numbering
Style - T002A18
Drop 2 - Slim fit
Panel - Right and left fly
Total time – 8

Performance 0.61
Utilization 0.69
Efficiency 42.00

S. No. of Time Total(in Total(in


Bundles
no. plies taken sec) min)

1.00 50.00 1.00 39.00 75.00 1.25


2.00 50.00 2.00 36.00
3.00 50.00 1.00 50.00 92.00 1.53
4.00 50.00 2.00 42.00
5.00 50.00 1.00 60.00 89.00 1.48
6.00 50.00 2.00 29.00
7.00 50.00 1.00 31.00 73.00 1.22
8.00 50.00 2.00 42.00

Total 5.48
Average 1.37

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Sewing Department

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PROJECT 1- PROCESS STANDARDISATION OF SEWING OPERATION USING


METHOD STUDY
AIM: Reduction of non-value added activities from the operation, so as to increase
the hourly production of operation and solving bottle neck operation.

PROBLEM STATEMENT:
1. Name of the operation is sleeve attach, were creating bottleneck in the line very
frequently.
2. The operations were taking very much time to complete.
3. The time of operations were increasing due to non value added activities associated with
the operation.
4. The hourly target was not attained by the operators.

NEED OF THE PROJECT:


STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS is required because a standard procedure
for a particular operation needs to be followed by all the operators. Operator use different ways
of doing work and all of them cannot be correct. This will give the minimum time in which it can
be done with the best efficiency so that any production loss that is happening due to the shifting
can be overcome in some way as well these operations work in parallel with the efficiency of the
line.

1.1 STANDARDISATION OF SEWING OPERATION


The need to standardize the motion of different operation by removing non value added
activities was identified. The process flow to eliminate the same is given below

Motion & Motion


Understanding the Data Implementa
elementry standardizat
process collection tion
break-down ion

Figure 20- Methodology

1.2 UNDERSTANDING THE PROCESS:


The operation which was being performed was observed keeping in mind the criticalness of the
operation as well as the workstation was also observed.

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1.3 DATA COLLECTION:


Videos of the operators performing the operation are captured. Issues like camera
consciousness are taken care off so that operators can be captured in their normal way of
working.

1.4 MOTION BREAKDOWN:


The video of the operator performing the operations are analyzed, the motions are further
divided into sub motions and SMV noted down.

1.5 IMPLEMENTATION:
IE Supervisor helped to implement the standardized method by conveying our words to the
operators, making them understand the process. The operators were also made to understand
the standardized process is going to help them eventually. The standardized methods will
eventually reduce the motion resulting in easy operating procedures.

Initially the IE supervisor was made to understand about the current motion which the operator
is performing for a particular operation. Then he was made aware of the best method to perform
that particular operation. The IE supervisor was then made aware that which particular operator
is performing which operation and what are the extra motions which he is performing and can
be eliminated.

We together went to the operators and made them understand about the extra motions which
they are producing and also helped them in eliminating the same by suggesting them the best
known method.

They were also explained about the benefits of the same. A keen eye was kept on the operators
so that they follow the suggested method and not the previous method. So that all the operators
performing same operations have similar motions resulting in standardized set of motions for
that particular operations and even elimination of non-value adding motions.
The implemented method was eventually captured so that a proper difference can be
documented with exact data and values of the method difference and time difference.

OBSERVATIONS:
1. Time study of the operations:

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OPERATION NAME R1 R2 R3 R4 R5
Sleeve attach 137 138.1 137.25 139.05 137.45
TWO HAND CHART FOR SLEEVE ATTACH OPERATION

STYLE NO: FLASH SS16- 09

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: SB2 PEAK CUT&SEW COLLAR & PIPING DETAIL

NO OF OPERATORS OBSERVED: 1

LHS DESCRIPTION RHS DESCRIPTION


Move hand towards panel Resting

Hold the panel Resting


Take jacket panel from the Resting
trolley
Take sleeves from the Hold jacket panel
trolley
Take one sleeve Hold jacket panel

Align sleeve panel with Hold the panel


jacket side seam
Turn jacket panel in out Turn jacket panel in out

Align and hold panels Align and hold panel

Hold the panel Place the panel under


presser foot
Hold panel and align it under Hold the panel and align it
presser foot under presser foot
Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Pull the panel out after Break the thread


stitching
Keep panel side Move towards second sleeve
panel
Hold the jacket panel Pick the panel

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Hold the jacket panel Bring sleeve panel towards


jacket panel
Align sleeve panel with Hold the panel
jacket side seam
Turn jacket panel in out Turn jacket panel in out

Align and hold panels Align and hold panel

Hold the panel Place the panel under


presser foot
Hold panel and align it under Hold the panel and align it
presser foot under presser foot
Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold the panel and check Hold the panel and check

Leave the panel resting

LHS TOTAL RHS TOTAL


3 3
22 18

0 3
4 4
Total 29 28

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TWO HAND CHART FOR NEW SLEEVE ATTACH OPERATION

Improved:

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Time study for the after method improvement:

OPERATION NAME R1 R2 R3 R4 R5
Sleeve attach 115 116.5 115.8 117 116.28

LHS DESCRIPTION RHS DESCRIPTION


Move hand towards panel Resting

Hold the panel Resting


Take jacket panel from the Resting
trolley
Take sleeves from the Hold jacket panel
trolley
Take one sleeve Hold jacket panel

Align sleeve panel with Hold the panel


jacket side seam
Turn jacket panel in out Turn jacket panel in out

Align and hold panels Align and hold panel

Hold the panel Place the panel under


presser foot
Hold panel and align it under Hold the panel and align it
presser foot under presser foot
Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Pull the panel out after Break the thread


stitching
Keep panel side Move towards second sleeve
panel

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Hold the jacket panel Pick the panel

Hold the jacket panel Bring sleeve panel towards


jacket panel
Align sleeve panel with Hold the panel
jacket side seam
Turn jacket panel in out Turn jacket panel in out

Align and hold panels Align and hold panel

Hold panel and align it under Hold the panel and align it
presser foot under presser foot
Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold and stitch Hold and stitch

Hold the panel and check Hold the panel and check

Leave the panel resting

LHS TOTAL RHS TOTAL


18 14

3 3
0 3
3 4
Total 24 24

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METHOD IMPLEMENTATION IMAGES

Figure 21- Image of IE official explaining the methods to the operators

RESULT:
Unnecessary non value added operations are removed or a better handling method is
suggested. It can be seen that the number of sub operations are reduced which leads to
completion of the operation in shorter time period.

Variation in cycle time


145

140

135

130

125

120

115
C1 C2 C3 C4 C5

OLD METHOD NEW METHOD

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140
137.77 Variation in SMV
135

130
Time in Seconds

125

120
116.16
115

110

105
Old SMV New SMV

SMV

PROJECT 2 – PROGRAMMING OF BUCK PRESS


PROJECT TITLE:
Programming of all the buck press used in sewing line and in finishing, reducing the set up time
for different fabrics and the defects caused by incorrect heat, steam and vacuum levels.

1.1 PROBLEM STATEMENT


 A lot of time taken in setting up of the buck press machines when the fabric is
changed.
 Know-how of the machine setup known by only a few people.
 Variation or incorrect set up combination leads to defects such as staining or
burning.

OBJECTIVE
 Reducing the set up time of the buck press machines for different fabrics and the
defects caused by incorrect heat, steam and vacuum levels combinations.

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1.2 PROJECT CHARACTER

LITRETURE REVIEW

 WHAT IS A BUCK PRESS


 A buck press is a machine for pressing a garment or section between two
contoured and heated pressure surfaces that may have steam and vacuum systems
in either or both surfaces.
 Before 1905 all garment pressing was done by hand irons heated directly by gas
flame, stove plate heat, or electricity; the introduction of the steam buck press
changed most press operations.
 The first pressing machines had no pressure, heat, or steam controls such as
those built after 1940.
 Modern buck presses are made to fit certain garment sections, such as a jacket
front, pant leg, pant top, or shoulder area for a specific style and size.

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 These improved buck presses have gauges to measure and control steam
pressure and temperature, mechanical pressure, vacuum, and the press cycle time.
 Cycle-time controls permit one operator to work a series of machines.

Figure 22 and 23: BUCK PRESS


MACHINES

BEGINNING OF PROGRAMMING:
 There were 2 buck press machines in the sewing section, namely:
i. Body press
ii. Shoulder pad press

And 8 machines in the finishing section of each jacket line, namely:

i. Sleeve press
ii. Shoulder press
iii. Front press
iv. Back press
v. Collar press

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vi. Elbow press


vii. Armhole nipping (x2)

PHASE I: IDENTIFYING PROBLEMS


1. SET UP OF BUCK MACHINES BY HIT AND TRIAL
Although, the buck press machines had digital screen to view the temperature, steam
pressure and vacuum levels during set up, remembering all the combinations for each
fabric was not easy by the operator and a minor fluke in any one of these levels caused
defects in the fabric, such as:
 IMPROPER PRESSING
 It was observed that a lot of jacket pieces were returned from the warehouse due to
improper pressing.
 This was mainly due to the incorrect combinations of levels of steam pressure,
temperature and vacuum.
 Most of the times the heat levels were set lower than the actual requirement of the
fabric in fear of the piece getting burnt.
 This lead to the returning of the already finished pieces to be returned from
warehouse for manual touch ups or total re-pressing of that specific part which was
not up to the requirements.
 BURNING OF JACKET PIECES AND STICKING ONTO THE SURFACE
 Another major problem that occurred was that, a minor rise in the temperature or
pressure levels caused the fabric to burn or caused hardening or darkening of it.
 This kind of problem was not rectifiable and so the jacket pieces had to be sent
for re-cutting causing a delay in the final packaging and hence, in shipment.
 STAINING
 Once a piece got burnt it would stick onto the surface of the buck press machine.
 This would cause stains on the next pieces introduced into the same buck press
if the operator did not take care of this fact.
 In order to rectify this, the fabric of the buck press had to be changed earlier than
the estimated time which would take a lot of time and an increase in WIP.

2. A LOT OF TIME TAKEN TO SET UP THE BUCK PRESS MACHINE

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 With every changing order, the style and the fabric changes.
 So, in order to provide the correct parameters the levels of heat, steam and
vacuum are to be changed.
 This takes a lot of time and the operators need to memorize or find the correct
combinations from the list for setting up of the machine.
3. ONLY A FEW PEOPLE KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM THEM
 As the combination of heat, steam and vacuum is to be changed with every fabric
only a few people with proper understanding of the buck press and the fabric and
what parameters of the machine to be maintained with what fabric can only set
up the machine.
 If the operator who generally handles the certain buck press machine is absent
and the other maintenance executives are unavailable, a lot of time is wasted.
The floater or the substitute who is to operate that particular buck press for the
day may or may not have a proper understanding and may not know how to set it
up.

PHASE II: DATA COLLECTION & OBSERVATIONS


1. A track of pieces that were returned from the warehouse due to improper ironing was
kept, and it was seen that:

Figure 24- Finishing alteration report

2. Record of pieces went for re-cutting due to burning or hardening were also noted:

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Apart from this, it was observed that the time taken for re-programming of machines and then
checking of the parameter combination with the help of a small swatch of the same fabric took
about 10-12 minutes (avg).

It was also observed that even though the styles, trims and make of the jacket changed, the
fabrics used by different buyers were repetitive. From the past records and the mentor’s
experience it was seen that 10 fabrics were most commonly used for jacket production, they
were:

i. Super 100s/120s
ii. Merino wool
iii. Lambs wool
iv. Poly viscose
v. Poly wool
vi. 100% polyester
vii. 100%cotton
viii. Corduroy

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ix. Velvet
x. Linen

3%
2% USE PERCENTAGE
3%
5% SUPER 100S/120S
7%
MERINO WOOL
8%
LAMBS WOOL
7% 19%
POLY VISCOSE
10% POLY WOOL
100% POLYESTER
14% 22%
100% COTTON
COR DRY

Figure 25: pie chart depicting the use percentage of fabrics

PHASE III: IDEA PROPOSITION


 Keeping in mind that only certain types of fabrics are used in jacket production and very
rarely fabrics out of the above mentioned are used, and idea was proposed to program
all the buck press machines fabric wise.
 The required combination levels of heat, steam and vacuum will be maintained and the
program numbers will be set and mentioned in front of the fabric composition.

Figure 26 & 27: PROGRAM OF BUCK PRESS MACHINES

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 A swatch card for the same would be prepared and pasted onto all the buck press
machines to avoid any kind of confusion.
A format for the same was prepared

PROGRAMME FABRIC TOTAL


FABRIC SWATCH
NUMBER COMPOSITION TIME
1 SUPER 100S/120S 20 SEC

2 MERINO WOOL 28 SEC

3 LAMBS WOOL 30 SEC

4 POLY VISCOSE 22 SEC

5 POLY WOOL 28 SEC

6 100% POLYESTER 22 SEC

7 100% COTTON 22 SEC

8 COR DRY 15 SEC

9 VELVET 15 SEC

10 LINEN 30 SEC

CHECKLIST FOR MACHINE OPERATION

Hand should be clean and dry


Check that the machine is clean
Check pressing paddle
Check steam pressure
Check air pressure
Check vacuum pressure
Check hand iron
Switch ON the machine
Operate the machine without the garment

FINISHING MANAGER

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 After getting the above format approved, these fabric swatches were collected from the
fabric store and the swatch card was completed. One swatch card for each buck press
was made.

PHASE IV: IMPLEMENTATION


 Mr Pritam Singh, who was the maintenance head was explained the concept of
programming the machines, who was then given time to formulate a suitable program
and think about how to proceed for the same.
 One week later, one machine at a time was programmed according to the swatch cards.
 The required combination of heat, steam and vacuum levels were set according to the
fabric mentioned under each program.

The swatch cards prepared were pasted onto each buck press machine for the convenience of
the operators.

Figure 28 & 29: implementation and pasting of cards on buck press machines

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RESULTS:

 A large fall in the number of warehouse-finishing rework was observed after the data for
10 days was collected and compared with the data that was collected before the
machines were programmed:

COMPAISON TABLE

No. of W/H-Finishing Alterations


25

20

15
Axis Title

10

0
Avg. of 9 days before Avg. of 9 days after
programming programming
No. of W/H-Finishing
22.1 7.5
Alterations

Figure 30: line diagram showing a comparison


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 Number of pieces to be re-cut due to burning or hardening of the fabric also reduced as
seen in the data collected and on comparing with the previous reports.

COMPARISON TABLE:

RECUTTING REPORT
3.5
3
2.5
Axis Title

2
1.5
1
0.5
0
Avg. per day before Avg. per day after
programming programming
RECUTTING REPORT 3.25 1.5

Figure 31: line diagram showing a comparison


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Quality Department

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Project 1

Aim of the project


To standardize the process of jacket manufacturing in two lines and get same kind of products
in all the two lines. And to increase FTT (First Time Through) rate of the sewing.

Problem Statement
Products of the three jacket lines are not similar because of the process followed in each line
are different.

Following are the differences occurred in two lines (line 1 and line 2).

1. Sleeve Balance

Line 1 Line 2

Figure 32: Sleeve balance of line 1 & line 2 product


There is difference between sleeve balance of the products of line 1 and line 2. Product of
Line 1 sleeve fall a bit more towards front and product of line 2 sleeve is slightly more
towards the side seam.

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2. Lapel

Line 1 Line 2

Figure 33: Lapel roll in line 1 & line 2 product

There is difference between lapel roll of both the products. Product of line 1 lapel is rolled
slightly above the button hole where as lapel of product of line 2 is rolled close from the button
hole.

Probable solutions
After discussing with the quality team and production team these were the possible solutions
which could be used to rectify the problem.

1. Method study
2. Process standardization

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Since, labor turnover rate was high we could not use method study because if we do method
study of operators and then train them accordingly then if the operator leaves the company
then same problem will arise again.

So, to rectify the problem process standardization was chosen.

BENEFITS OF PROCESS STANDARDIZATION


Process standardization describes the establishment of a set of rules governing how
someone has to complete a given task or sequence of task.

Benefits of process standardization:-

1. Improves Clarity- because a standard process will eliminate the need for
guesswork or extra searching
2. Guarantees quality- because work is done in a pre-defined, optimized way
3. Promotes productivity- because operator and supervisor will not depend on
others to tell them what process has to be followed.
4. Good end product- because every product is handled alike and in the best
possible way.

IMPLEMENTATION
Together with help of quality and production team process are defined of each job done in
the construction of jacket.

Processes are divided into four sections

1. Front section
2. Sleeve section
3. Lining section
4. Assembly

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Project 2

AIM OF THE PROJECT


To reduce the D.H.U. of the industry, that is defects per hundred units and hence
improving the quality of all the products manufactured.

PROBLEM STATEMENT
According to the quality manual of Dress Master Apparel Pvt. Ltd. unit, the acceptable
D.H.U. (defects per hundred units) is 3%. But the average D.H.U. of this unit per day is 9-
10%. So, to reduce the defect rate of all the 3 jacket lines, I first decide to do a study on all
the frequently occurring defects.

I collected the D.H.U. data of last 3 months, i.e. May, June and July.

 What are the various problems faced by all the three lines in jacket department?
 What were the root causes of all the problems?

After doing the study, following were the defects that occurred frequently: -

1. Sleeve kinari (top stitch) open


2. Vent kinari (top stitch) open
3. Armhole visible stitch
4. Label puckering
5. Button hole up/down (not aligned properly)
6. Vent kinari pinching

COLLECTED DATA – BEFORE IMPLEMENTATION

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Figure 34: Frequently occurring defects

OBSERVATIONS
o I did a study of defects occurring in all the three lines of jacket sewing area.
o I studied all the check points, whether inline or endline or the finishing audit area of all the
lines.
o There is no systematic way for the alterations and to keep a record that how many
alterations came and how many operations they have to undergo for their complete rework.
o The spreading tables are small and placed in congested areas making it difficult for the
checkers to do their work properly and hence leading to negligence of many defects at
times.
o There is no conveyer system for the rework products and the checker has to take them to
the operation table from where the main defect has occurred.
o The main problem was with all the operators because at first they aren’t ready to change
their daily working routine.

o I also concluded the top main defects occurring in all the three lines of jacket sewing line area
which are the main reason for a increase in the D.H.U. report of the industry

THEORY
The top 6 defects that I studied which were the most frequently occurring are as follows:

1. Label puckering
2. Armhole visible stitch
3. Sleeve kinari (top stitch) open
4. Vent kinari (top stitch) open
5. Button hole not aligned
6. Vent kinari pinch

About defects
LABEL PUCKERING – It is caused by the shrinkage of the labels after applying steam
press. It also caused by the wrong tension setting of the sewing machine or may be due to
the lining fabric has been stretched so much.

ARMHOLE VISIBLE STITCH –It is the defect caused because in jacket line first the shell
fabric is attached (i.e. sleeve and body) and then the lining fabric is attached (I.e sleeve and

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body). After doing this, shell and lining fabric are then stitched, this causes the armhole
visible stitch defect.

SLEEVE TOP STITCH OPEN –This defect usually occurs when the alterations aren’t carried
in a systematic way and hence leaving behind some operations which then lead to more
rework and also increasing the production time

VENT TOP STITCH OPEN –This defect is also caused by the mismanagement of the
rework carried in all the jacket lines. The operators also don’t realize that through how many
next operations an alteration piece has to go and thus without keeping this in knowledge that
piece is again sent to the endline checker without properly being altered.

BUTTON HOLE NOT ALIGNED –It is caused mainly due to the negligence of the operators
while marking and while placing the product on the button hole stitching machine, which
causes misalignment of the button hole so stitched and the whole garment gets damaged,
where no alteration is possible.

VENT KINARI PINCHING –It is caused while tacking the lining and shell fabric before
closing the vent by using top stitch. The main reason is also that the lining and shell fabrics
are not aligned properly and the lining is loosely held.

PROCEDURE
After doing the root cause analysis for each top most occurring defects, the below given are
some possible remedies for those defects which were introduced.

Different procedures were studied and analyzed for their use i.e. whether this process is
useful or not, whether the operators will be comfortable with that particular process or not,
whether it is causing any damage to the product while working or not etc.

1. FOR LABEL PUCKERING

To reduce this defect, I observed that there was no shrinkage test taking place for the labels
issued. They are directly loaded for production area after they arrive in the trim store. Due to
this, there is shrinkage in the labels after they have been stitched, which than causes
puckering in the lining and due to repeated alteration of label puckering, sometimes the
lining fabric also gets damaged.

Idea proposed

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Implementation process

 First I issued 2-3 labels (which are stitched on the lining) from the trim store.
 For testing their shrinkage, I measured the dimensions (in cms) of all three labels and then
dipped those labels in water for different durations of time, i.e. for half an hour, 1 hour and
1:30 hours.

Figure 35: labels Figure 36: measure labels

Figure 37: Dipped label

 After that, I kept them to dry off for another half an hour.
 Once they all where dry, I steam pressed all the labels so as to finish their wrinkles and to
dry them again properly.

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 Then I again measure their dimensions again (in cm), and there was a shrinkage of 3-4%
in each of their dimensions.
 There was same amount of shrinkage in all the 3 labels kept in water for different
durations.

So, this test helped me to know that there is shrinkage in labels which then was causing
further problems while stitching, and thus leading to many alterations.

Therefore, I created a process flow for trim store for the labels which would help reduce
occurring of this defect any further.

Figure 38: Process flow of labels

2. FOR ARMHOLE VISIBLE STITCH

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To reduce this defect, I studied all the processes in assembly line 2, where sleeve attachment
with the main body starts. So I observed that in this sleeve attachment procedure, first the
shoulder pad is stitched with the main body and then the main body lining is stitched with the
shell fabric of the main body of the jacket. After this, the sleeve lining is then attached with the
body of the jacket. This sometimes causes the stitch (main body and lining stitch) to be visible,
which is then a defect, not acceptable by the buyers.

Idea proposed

Implementation process

 First the old process was considered and studied carefully.


 Then the main cause behind this was found.
 The new idea given was that to stitch the sleeve and body lining together rather than
separately which then results in two different stitches, one of which is visible.
 Stitching, for both the product and the operator.
 After that the operator was given training for few days to get used to that procedure.

So this idea helped in reduction of the armhole visible stitch and also converted two processes
into one, thus saving time also.

Figure 39 & 40: armhole closing

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3. FOR SLEEVE KINARI (TOP STITCH) AND VENT KINARI OPEN STITCH.

To reduce this defect, I studied the end line check points from where this was coming. Usually
this defect occurs after the product has been sent for alterations and due to negligence of the
operators; it comes back before it has been altered completely. This also causes rework, even
for the already altered pieces, thus increasing the production time.

Idea proposed

Implementation process

 First I spent time with the end line checkers and observed that on an average how
many defects are occurring in an hour, i.e. 6-7 defected pieces, out of which 2-3 were
always sleeve kinari open.
 The main reason behind this defect the negligence of the operators who send the
piece back to the end line without checking that whether the piece has undergone all the
operation tables to get fully altered.
 There is no proper way to record that how many defects have occurred and how many
have been sent for their alterations, which than cause operator confusion.

So I proposed an idea, that we must have a slip, stick to all the altered pieces such that
the operators will come to know that these all are the processes it has to undergo and won’t
send it back before its complete alteration.

Implementation process

 And the second idea was to hang tags on the alteration pieces, with different colour
tags for alteration pieces from different check points.
 The colour coding was done for the tags, i.e. blue coloured tags for end line
alterations, green coloured for lining alteration and red tags for front line alterations.

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 This could help in identifying those pieces which are undergoing their alteration and
their colour will define the processes that it will have to go through for their complete rework.

Figure 41 & 42: tags attached to rework product


 And first only 5 tags were
given to every check points, so as to keep in record that at a time 5 pieces have been sent for
alterations, and the next 5 will be sent once the previous ones are back with full rework.

So, out these 2 ideas, the second one was implemented for the better understanding and
easy use of the operators and also to not waste much of paper for the slips. It helped in keeping
record of alterations pieces and also not affecting the production time.

4. FOR BUTTON HOLE NOT ALIGNED PROPERLY

To reduce this defect, I observed the various ways a button hole is marked using
templates or needle threads. Using the templates, sometimes don’t help because of the
negligence of the operators and not placing the template properly, thus causing the misalignment
of the button hole marking.

Also when using needle, the needle is pierced through the right side to the back side and
the marking is done on the back side of the jacket. This makes it quite difficult for the operator to
set the jacket properly for stitching button hole, as the marking isn’t visible and the operator
has to guess the adjustment accordingly causing button hole defect.

Idea proposed

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Implementation process

 Firstly, I made a template for jacket line keeping in mind all the dimensions and also
the dimension of the button, to get a proper placement of the button hole while marking.
 The template also had the dimension of button included, so as to mark the button hole
on even distance from each other and from the edge of the jacket.
 Then the operators were given training on how to use those templates.

Implementation process

 Second process was to modify the use of needle and avoid the least possibility of
misalignment of the button hole marking.
 While using needle to mark, thread was also used in way that it made a loop around
the button hole marking area so that the marking was done easily, without any mistakes caused
due to the needle pierced.
 Also an idea was proposed to break stitch the area that was to be marked for button
hole.

So by using these 2 methods for button marking, there was a reduction in button hole
misalignment. The operators also found it easy for their use.

To reduce this defect, first I studied all the processes in assembly line 1, mainly the ones
starting from the joining of bottom lining with shell fabric and then closing the vent. It was
caused due the mismatching of lining and shell fabric while tacking them together.

Idea proposed

Implementation process

 For the reduction of this defect, the idea proposed was to apply dummy stitch over
the area where tacking was to be done.
 It would hold the lining fabric intact with the shell fabric and thus helping the operator
to match the ends properly for tacking.
 It also reduced in centre back puckering and the extra fabric.

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OUTCOMES
The expected outcome was to reduce the D.H.U. upto 3-4%, by introducing various idea
and innovations in the working system of the jacket sewing area. The ideas proposed for the
frequently occurring defects included

 label shrinkage test,


 different marking techniques for button hole and training the operators accordingly,
highlighting the reword pieces in all the 3 lines for keeping a better record,
 Modifying some operations like sleeve attachment and vent tacking etc.

The changes that were expected are as given below:-

 No label puckering on the lining of the jackets.


 Keeping a check on all the alterations with the help of the tags and thus, reducing
more rework and the defects like sleeve top stitch open etc.
 Changing the process of sleeve attachment and thus resulting in poka yoke of the
armhole visible stitch defect.
 No pinching defect at the end of the vent stitch by tacking the lining and shell fabric
for their proper alignment.

So by using all these procedures, the defects are expected to reduce and also helping
the operators and the team leaders to keep a better record.

RESULT
Following are the results of my proposed ideas:-

 After starting the shrinkages test, the label puckering was reduced and the alteration time
taken to mend that defect was also deducted. It also helped in increasing the quality of the
product line and improving the aesthetics of the inside of the jacket.
 After starting use of the tags, it was easy for the team leader and the operators to know
where the alteration piece ahs reached and how many operations are left for that piece to
undergo and complete its alteration and also saving it from another rework.
 After starting the use of new button template in jacket line 1 to see the results, it did help in
decreasing the defect of button hole misalignment. Also , by making a loop of thread
through both the sides of the jacket, not by using a needle to make a button hole mark, it
helped the operators to be more careful and help in reducing the button hole blunder.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

 After starting the use of the new method for button hole marking, by making a loop with a
thread to mark the hole line, it helped the operators to mark easily and reduce the
misalignment of button holes in jackets.

COLLECTED DATA-AFTERIMPLEMENTATION

Figure 43: defects in jacket line


1
LABEL PUCKERING

BEFORE SHRINKAGE TEST AFTER SHRINKAGE TEST

Figure 44: shrinkage test results

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

BUTTON HOLE ALIGHMENT

ALIGNED BUTTON HOLE MISALIGNED BUTTON


HOLE

Figure 45: button hole results

VENT TOP STITCH OPEN

CLOSED VENT TOP STITCH


OPEN VENT TOP STITCH
AFTER REWORK

Figure 46: vent kinari results

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

ARMHOLE VISIBLE STITCH

NO VISIBLE ARMHOLE VISIBLE ARMHOLE STITCH


STITCH

Figure 47: Armhole stitch visible result

Project 3

Aim of the project


To give the operator visual clarity about the defects

PROBLEM STATEMENT
After the visual analysis of fabric store quality process there was no defect board installed
due to which fabric checkers were unable to recognize any non-frequent occurring defect
and were not giving right points

SOLUTION
Series of steps were taken:

 Workers were inquired about both frequent and non-frequent occurring defects in the
fabric.
 Rejected cut pieces were checked.

From the information gathered following defects were listed down.

 Broken end: Yarn broken in a warp direction.

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel [P] Ltd. (A Raymond Group Of Company)

 Broken pick: Yarn broken in a weft direction.


 Coarse end/pick: A yarn having a large diameter than normal to the fabric.
 Color fly yarn: Waste fibers of different color are woven into the fabric has contamination.
 Double end: Two ends wrongly weaved as one.
 Double Pick: Two picks wrongly placed in a single shed.
 End out: A missing warp yarn.
 Hole: Any broken yarns to form a hole.
 Jerk In: An extra weft yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a correct pick of
weft yarn.
 Knot: Two or more ends of yarn tied together.
 Miss pick: Missing a weft yarn.
 Reed Mark: A defect resulting from a bent reed wire, characterized by a fine-lined thin
place in the warp direction.
 Reed Streak: A warp wise streak caused by a damaged reed in weaving.
 Shade Bar: A change in shade within a short duration across the width of the fabric.
 Slub: A short abnormal thick place in a yarn
 Soiled filling: A weft yarn soiled by dirt or grease.
 Thick Place: Where the place of weft yarn greater in diameter than normal to the fabric.
 Thin Place: Where the place of weft yarn is smaller in diameter than normal to the fabric.
 Tight End: A warp yarn in an abnormal restriction than the adjacent normal yarns.

Figure 49 & 50: defect board

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National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur Page 121

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