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WINIFRED ALDRICH
.,. Blackwell
..." Publishing
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C \\'illifral Alclrieh1976. "79. 19S2. 19t15.1989. 19)0. 199-1. Libra') of ("Ol\(ltnS Callt~ing·i,,·Publical_ I);a;t;lI is
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lodltdCJ Indell.
Ttl ~4 (0111165 71l1U8 ISON 1....&()~I'O:ll1,(Ifulk. fI'Iptr.
81"'....dI r.Yj\bln, 1~.r('.)i(lnlll.llll SUlt("","'ftlM'.A.Mft, I D~ ....nali.ln... I.i1t1en.cl~,I", I T,'k
'00Ifi0.. ~I."&)(I(). USA TTS20,A4) 100-1
Trl _I SIS 29l01;l() tJ.&() 4·01l.«2J
8L;c .... d hYh.hlft. ",." ')1). Ltd. S$O5\\... ,,1011~I~.
C:.tlCOII.\ "-",or,,, Wj3. ""'I~Hjj
Td "'I lOll8J,W1011
Tk .1 oIlhr Autbor leibe:- Idc..IUi~-da, 'he Author c( lho A catalo,UC' fC'C'Urd (ur th", tltk i, m.ubblc (rum I_
"'M W bc'cR .~"cd in lIo;onJal~ with the Cop)'nf:hl. Bnt ish Librn I)'
DrtSIpt •• d P"a,tzn. An 1988,
Sc1 ,n 9.25 tln Ilrt Tinle' NR~IT
AI nPtJ ~oed. No part or lhis publiC'.llionm:.y be by SSP 8cst·;iC1T),pe:s('Itcr Ltd••Hon, Koa,
~utcd. stotnl illl a ~lr~'al.systclI'l.
011mlUtnittcd. in. • ..,. Priotrd aDd bou~d in Grear UOt;,aia
fOn:n. Of b)' ~ IUe:l:n~clectfOnk·, lnechanil.-.II. pbotocop)'lnI- by CPJ Iblb
lI('('O(di:ll, or Olb¢n..·isc.e.wc:pt :I~rcrn1itt<d b)' ,be: 1,;K
COP)riPt. ~ 11.00Pllt~'fItsACt 1988.• 'jthoul t.M prior 11K publitht't's polk)' is 10 uSC'pum:in<1lt Il'Ip:t (l'OIIt milk
pam_ oIlhC' pubfi"ber. WI openllte a "tI$lllin:llblemm1ry polq,:t.nd .. !uda
Nt, b«n ll~llnuf~(IIIf<'d rrom JI'Ilp p~ ~ »rid·rtC'('
rll'5l publQed in G~"I 8rilain In 1976b) ~hlls&I a.o.oo WI. 'nd rkmn'ltlll')'('hl'Irinc·fn:c flr.tclKn.Furl~ t.k
lD 19'11by BC'U.t 1I)'mlln I.ld, lind in 1981 b)' (Ja.,n 11>__ publisher C"nwrt',SIhlll the le:\1 p:lpcl lind 4"O\'ft bovd alft!
Lid ""~ mC1ll«lrJ"tlIWc(1l\'ironnl(nt..lll«~il~ ~nk
Ik\dItd «Idiot! I."', rcptitltcd Ij)80
RC"I'Jo<'dC'ddton 1'82. t"Cpinted 1983. 19l1A For (ufth« In!'Qnnllli(lo 1.)0 8IaC"III,\:,11
P\tbb'lohlllJ., .. _r
Rnl10Cd cdnion 108S. rCJlflnted 19$6, 19S7. 1988 it,,"icc;'lm. _~b\lte~
'9'10 .... '" bI_LIII'('III)uhh;hl'\jl.cl)'~'
RtpruM<d b) 11"I'ltrCot1ln~ l'llblj~hct"I 1991
Rtpnott'd t, HLtcl,;.'t1i Selentifle1~lbU.:.. tlon~ 1992, 199)
nW'd C'dlUoe t994
RtpnMai b) 8b1t.... '(:UStietllX Ltd 1994, 1')9'
Rnlted cdrhon 1997, rcpintcd 199tt, 19'J9
foIIn" cdl1fQ112004
Introduction 4
Pattern Cutting and I).sign 5
"ubrics 6
APP""di. 197
199
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4
fNTRODUCTION
~1'It'd [dillon ZtHM l'lu~ Ihird Ina_jorr(\I)lon ()( and dc\'ttop Ihelr o\\'n utdlvtduuf .-ylt. Of' .om(ft "ho
Ib( oripn.1 boot. \I. '1111:1\
In 1915. ((Inl.l,n, trw to II~ find MII)SoI,r,lIJucl"tl t:lolhes ,In un~~ ..) 61
oMJ,lfl,\1Wn«PI. II on'crcd 1.1 tllllG-('or If,met b.;1~ Some Jillt mem 1);IlIe'll~,p;tfllcularl) '" eoulurc
~u. In Inlfo(l\l(llj)l1 to the b.I\ic; princlpk~ f)( dOt"" :.'" CUlIlI1I'UCICd hy dmlllRJ on the: df'('» .aland
p.tncm ("Ullin, .tHJ ~\'( II few c"ampk'S "r \h(lt 110",(\ cr, PlIttCI n (IIIL1IIi from bloc".) or .c.bptllttOt) or
application uno golrnltnljL "he priocipal sum ";IS 10 c..~i"11ng ,)altcrn!l ill 1I0\V wide I)' uxd by 1m- dft'j.~ trade
';\< Jludtnl,) ('()nfidencc in their nbllil), to dC'\c:top. bec:IU)!C of II" 1JCi:"rlu,:y or t.l/ln~und Ihc .. peed ¥lith
uniqUC 'Ilk ef ~tl~m c;\luing and 1000"«:1IUlor., III 't\h"h ranges can be devetcped, V..ucm tU1I,O' b) thi.
start.ng poinl rrom v;hicb they could (".'Icnd Ibnr mt'tbod is a means of neblC'o;lng It iho;tpc- around the
$1uck:nlS"kMVI'lcdgt. bod)' so Ih:1I ~lthou~h IhC'bad)' ~ndthcrefore the
The new edillon resp(Inds 10 Ihe \\-ay l'~brtQ:and bod)' blocks. t't'nl;lin CQnSt~"'Il~ there i~ no limit 10 tht
rash.ion have changed Ihe cut and sizing or garmmt..s ideas that an be followed through into _-otbble
in difrCR:fll m:lnUraclurin.g precesses; Tbe Sfl:1.1 designs. Hov,'t\'cr, the designer must tlM'3)'Sbe
~Mio:" of C3~u~1wear, in jer~)' or 'If'C1ch(:lbrio.. con$C'iou> IhlSI Ihe bV4Jy is I' !Qrm. Thb (an be
h-:asled 10 the expansion of jl", cutting with no diffic:uh "hen one hll' rc relate tlal pieces of paper 10
chnm, 10 Cf'(:SI(' the shape. '"hi$ c:dhion di:'\Qtts 3 !l dtsi.s:n Ihal i, b:s:.ical1y sculplunl .,.1k-n. it is
.hole secucn 10 this 'ype of cUllins_ H~c\er. completed. In IIddhinn~ Ihe form ",'£11Mo\C: I.hJ~must
,Iaden,,. undCNlund til""" 10 create sh;J.pc-
1'1)1\'(' 10 be: Cl{pIOlll'tllll the cui of the g1lfmcnl A olO\.og
Ihrou:sJt CUllin;: alene, in (nel,/orn, ''Ullin~. and shape' is mere \,i:iuully ('x('ilin$: IhIln II suB form.. But
thl:n:fo~ lilt fil'1't secnce nf Ih\.' book ~tlU t'M"'CtJ Ihis there are pr.U;lk:II prC'lblc:nl$tft be \."C)nsidcn:dIn
(",-lInlque: 1111.",.C'tII(1n~on lXlltlIUllcn'lIltlc:d d("'p.nd i111U\11UIJ!' (~r
Ihl$ nll)\'l:'melll, The \)'\lcm or pltl('m
,l1Idln, ha\C been ulxt;ttcd. 1'hl.llIi7~'(h"rlll of body cutlins: orr~'redill Ihi, booL IlitclI'PC" 10 ",..ie cb~
m<.)5UI\"n)(11I$.h{t\'c be!;'n revised: they "t:knO'l'kd~ scudc:"' more' fully Ilwaf"C or d~,nin, round ,he:
1M c_b.:t,nJ;lna(I\:lpcl or \'()lncn'" bodl(,- 6.u~r;Ilhc:r usuu ~cin!l it II~:J bOOr ltu, PO~j.('lSI:'.
fhe book f'l."nl:lln' \\ dUcl! for bc¥-ulnl:~ '1(ud(Ql\ onl)' ~ rl'C)lu \'100\
.. ho Ire ..llIrI'n~ pJ01C!tic:lIl".Iitem C1I1LIn,I m.) Ia J)olrlo( ~InCJ1' C"llIng ilhouhl be: uk'CI in CO"JUDCIJOO""Ilt
"~hlon Ikgror or l)il>loml' COIli";l'SDr (or Cit)' land • dln...~Shtnd, 't"hiJ rnC:l.1n~that 11$tbe dOl.,. C'\"OI\6.
GUild) E.\';1minIlClon,;: II 1\ 1,11(0for \ltldc:nb.n Upf'lC't r~ror'ion ~lnd Une ,,"UI be: ....h«"'<d land ('C)mxic.'d
~.'huols \\ho ate: ~tudy-lng IId,':ulI:ed dte:ss )ubjctu. 1~"(lcrn \'"Ullin~("tin lIehic\'!: 11$h,Ipie quielJ), but mon:
One dupter de.lls specifically \,'hh Jra.fting lhe bSocl mmpliC31cd slyles :ihould be n,ade up IQCO:amullm
ror Ind1\1du.:a1 figures. l'hi" \\'ill be u$efvl ror \!i'Qme;ft or QIICO lone.tO 'hill the t'e'\Vll ,,',Gft be ~ C,)n..
.. ho m:akeclotho. for chclnsel\'c'J in order to (ft';tlt (Otm or I. I'lo\'ing ligutC,
5
PATTERN CUTfrNG AND DESIGN
r~Utm CUllin, by .udllPlinU shllJl(:S from block fi~1 ~roup lire (Iuptoycd hy ·rJ'UdU(1lon·W'
""lterR' ('.;In be triloN b:1C:1.
10 the Mkldle: or the' m:anu(:.ttUI'\!rli: the5C d\"~ill:lll:" 4"1lndC\clnp ('umnt
nlntlctnlh o:tllllf)'. As Ih~ 4:111£"1
,lc\(lopcd Ih~ b;i)tc ( ..."tllon lrthllpc$o.bUI fi:C'oi;l1ize th.1I (Jbnc (COrium)
ruki C\t'I\w. but rule,"Cl\n be:broken or I:h="AlC\lI( and n:pc.11 Injl~ina·tlp Intihods un: ,he Prio"I),
Ih(\ ~( from eew creative (hrd:lion.f. 'rhi" ('O""PI The ~nd 9.I\'IUp Ille CIl1Illo)'cd b)' ·t!c5lJn·kd·
or d(sl$n h:a~ Ix\'n 1'(;\I'I()n~iblc:lor thto:nl~' ('\clun, m:anu(IJC'1ul'O''':they lIre abl~ 10 prod,," or1JJnollldC'd.
th;,nca 1ft ih~pclIud CUIl.Iul'ing ,hi,: lOIh ,,"(nlur) .ad Ire ¥Iblc 10 ¢xpcrh'non, \\jlh new f,ltma aM
Polrc.t. VlOnn.:, nnd Ch:lne1. S('n$iti\~ 10 "OC'lal and produclion IlI'OC':SlICS,
Influences. ·dj.)(C),,~·l't'd lht hood)" .. (h~r it ~d
1I(::IOIhtllC' Tht~ 111,(: or
100meblu'H:1:lcm':lu'4 t1('(.1&J'llh~t.0«1
bc:-cncn('~ In Sll\lcIUf'('$(or" !"'(nll'fr. ;-\hhoup or tna)' limit .1 dC'$ignc:rin un)' fh:lcl
the ... tnJC'rpn'.tations diN'clTd. they were !.he- lonO\-;llors Colour and paucrn These 'I~ the most dom.tJlJla'
of $00 ea» tiltin,g clothes,.. 'r<xIII)' Inc ch:altgiJ', soti..l ft'".sI'lrcs in :1 fnshil,ln «eeu. Each scaron :. ..:oIuut
:allillJd~ of man)' ,,'Onu:ti tl(l\'t ch~ngtd their 'heme: ~(:rl':(".:o..oe~ISI(lll'llly ~pont~nr:ov.5ty• .)()mC"1itnt):
311itodcs to fashion. they buy clothes 10 sat.is(~· influenced by top designers, 110\\~V'('1"~
most mass
tbcm$o!"\'tS, lhe)' are not prepared to be mlricttd to :l tdaiJers tel)' on .he slyle and colour pn:dielioft$ of
dtebted hne for a :oea~onor b)' nn outdated im.!lg,e of lhe m:tjor forecasllng :.I&(nci~ New t«hn~ eew
femininity. otT(,r :l revolution in printed textiles. Ills(("".tdof aU·
,\tllR)in, desi!,.'11 with C:1.$hionh:JS al"--a~sbeee It O\"tt repeat deslgus, unl'tpc'arin& P311Ctft$llnd new
ditraeult ptOCfiS.; it can be everwheimed b), simmi..-ks or
SOller; p.11lent can he (tchk\"~d. chut offenns nC\\
and 1M bV.4rl"C'elfC"l1~thut ere ;1 pa,' or r..,hlC)n ron«pl$ III ,,'hieh decorn 1t1)11It. .nt('gr.-IIO tbe "hole
\\'hilst Ihese lift' nC\.'('~r)' beenuse the) In,ilxt wn, design,
pk~tu~ and elC'ilcment. t("I)~I"lina;.thl:m inlo .~IIIbr'I('ql,l~1I1)' Nc\\' t~hn()I""'sk<l: ha\c ::.1.'\0 «"p:snded
~e.t,..bk: f"~I'-'n 1\ n Cl't'''~I\,C uri f)"ianins lit Ibe the hlnfe of f'llbtit~ "vuUubte to II -.I<"IIOCf The
k\d or ccuune or ",nall d~:-;sn~'r ~lll~'C'1I0n)It 'er) ~~lh(11C' qllI\IJli~'$ til' :1 fobric !lrt' ofic::n Ihe IOsptQllOn
ddTct'fn1 (rom Ih;\t or designl"S rOt a m"ss mllrL(t Ihlll Inhl"lc:$ ,~d¢)lln. 111)\\'<"'er.In c~ahnl.n~
O.trm<'nIJ ('R'~tcdftlt 111\'ndi\'klu,11 chelll '1\(' 0& IIh.J('C II de..\iwnt.:t hllJJIU C<11l)ider fi\c cruoc:gl (abric
doolJAcr mort rr«don. I'll" (.'(lSI flll:lOr tk."COMI,.'1 k) qU4ll1icti,,'hieh could rt\lhJ;c n ord~'h)) It "'C~
Importllnl. and this 111IU""$ Ihe otiiitialidell to be Ilnd 1'''''CIL \\!hlls.
11n::n~jllhl. ,t,/tA'lIl'j,t, l"t'(I,. ~tf{lIJC
l"".trnfillh.rough. Interesting fubric!! ItllU .In: d.lffic:ullio I:.I"&C'ronlp;lnics IUI"o tC$linit procn1Uft'S that an
tundlf Coinhe U\;f,.'d. Ihclr \lir(.IC'e <lUllIii Ie' (mph~~ 4ttt:rn1lne Icchlltejlllll~jurt" ihe dC1lp'cr o(\cn hn
b) dC'COl"'oIll\'C I«hniques. '-hc 'c"C of Ih.e 13m1ml l$ 10 mllke InSl,lnt judgcnl4'lll:l< and lhcttfort halo 10 bt'
usuaJl) del('m:uned b)' dr3ping on Ihe .stand \\.~ the abJc to C'stimllt(;'thc quaUltcs or" (aboC' .and tdeiJlW'
jnl~ of the <,UItun he d¢v(loptd o.:JiEAln~ lhe 6nll.l <:ff...1:I,
fOt tndi\'ldual C"CIUS ~III()IVSthe p4:1')(1I'111Iit)of 1ft< Sh.~pc \\'hil~t J'C(;Og_nizinglhe: CfUci31 tOle lhal f:..1>hc
Vr."'Ql'('f 10 be (USlCd ",ilh Ibe urigin':ll idea.. The me of cboice plays in 'he' realiznuoD o( destgn. ItS SUl'Ct':SS
the «kbrity in lhe ll\bSic industry (.Md tbe mufi.J_ tt:$t$ \\;lh the quality (If Ihe. p.:lncm (\il.inl. The
h:a".dc\'C'loped ;l n~' l'-\-eiling'tI:ltk~1for $(lIne:.op oQl'ninlllion or Slftl~h f;.lbril;:sin the m;t» m:3r1.'t'1b3:>
designers: it is 3 means by Yo'hichthey can promote meant :10 exp;:ln$ion of sinlpl('jlal palt~m~lIlliItJ
lheir design' .and Iheir nl)mc, ~tOla m!tj()r designers lrchrllques which r~l)' Oil the stretch 10 ('re.atC-lh~
:also ~Ie ·dc.sisne't COIle\,!IIOIlIi' ,,'htth art prodU4~ bQd) ~h"pc. llul siruich flthrlcf can be marritd _ilh
b)' m:anuf.acturing proce$~~ tun Ih(' bi~h P'~ or 1M '(onn' culling 10 gjve quite dlff(rt'nt (O'«ts. 8iaJ
prrnc.nu:o111()\\'S the ''ijlJnlilu~' of Ibcit C'Ullor(maUl <"uI1In#add", 10 the dnlpc tlUahl) or fabrics. :and 1M
lind hmlttel nUI\ of speclu!!)' prilucd or \\o\~n (lIbrk's \I~ Gr 1~)eN c:ln .tlTc:c, tht: ",('iShl And Ihidne« of
to bc u:~. the dn.lgn "(,f'" ('lllllllR (If ~,ftt~ filtlns s;umml" In
TM mO\.IIIm,tin, raCto~ III dC'liii!l,in&(Dr mll'i'\. rOtbnc\ \\UhOul ~he"r 01' drupc.lIuch It" $11« \dk~
rtoducltOn .Ire' prICe:fil,d Ih~'"roducllon p~" rcqui~~~1't.11 ~kill,
notttn ill~ hOi'"til h:I"C! 'hllnS<lf apl>l:III': th;'ll~ Ijlle Thtt Inlcq)h:I.ltiOIl 1)( lint:'and CUI I~ the m041
pcopk ,,&II br tcnlph.-d lO I'Y t'1.:111on or bu) lIkm (or comp1c:\ pari o( I' designer') \\o.k. On« ~ f.&Shlon
'har tool. lIklt'le. Orten d~sll~'.,'i Ih:11loot..wn~II(J~1 '''-pc bcc()mc~ C$llIbU~III;'11. Ihe \'ttn..tltOM m CUI 10
on:l nlo\"lRJ. body 0'111l.ool: linlp :lnd (c.llurcJ$ :.~bt('\l' .1 are intinile_ l'he dt.'iianer nl.Uit we hli or he_,
00 a C'tolh< ...rJd. Tt~~ ;Itc I"~) t)'pc$ or ,uc(,.'("-"rul ,Jr.,U 10 p.rodU(¢ II rlul~t: lh.11 "11I1t'oIn'!l.a~ 1M ble.1
dcsipcn in th(' IU:t.l>Sptuductloll (lUhion lr.ldc. The (a)hlolJ u,~ ,l ft111~ ors:izCi.
textilestudycenter.com
6
FABRICS
l.>NIpCf'i bave to tH."quireI., deep undenn;tndl", o( lbe 6brn di~ll)rl in .hl:' warp and ""tn~.Ibese
lhe qU.lbl~' ('Ir (lIhti(.'i. ~il"')'dC:i!.I'U:r\~,,"Iilh.tl: In QU.1hlh:) \\+,111l1TC\:1'lUl10: dr.lln;'lh.:.III)' ~ a p;allctn
daa,nlnJ" p.JIrticuiar pr<W,h,lCl. tor cXllmpk hnJCrtc or _III be cui and bow Ihe (in.11~hapc ....111be re;all1cd. 1\
Jpotlw,'eoJr Tb,. Inl.'#nl' Ih.1I they have It) undct)ulnd U)'I or r..bees 1\ lihown belMlo..... hlch " nttqort7o.1
1M b;a~ pmpcfl~ "I' rl~hric~IIl'lt.ll('~tln, pA:K:n!uJ'C'( Into the (1111'(1'('1)1f:lbth: "cl,hl" \\-'~Iiht lind IhdnC'",~
..r~ be' a~l.Irtd Ihill the fuhric \\'111 ~rform \\tll (or ~rtg(I'I(F.1l1y elesely Ilnkl.'\I, but ..ome thlc''' ptk
tbc:lr p;lrtteulOir ptOdU':L rlabt.c1 ((InSltu(tl.'tl "'llh ""In·mllde fibn:::t c..n be
fbco dC'Slgncr hils to bcecme rrllnJilllf "'llh thl: 1)'pt:S d<'«lltl\~ly IiShL Shear nnd drupe are abo onm
or ~'O\'Cnlind knitted 1I1rUCIUI'e1,f (.I"ne. KnO\\kdlC' (Ino~l) fln~oo:1111."'< qU~llitk.,.,IIlh')\\ the cutu."1 of.ol1
0( l~ b:ts.c source of (ubri~ hll$ to be: ucqu,~ lind bod)' 5kimn'in#~hapc$. Today the popubnl) or
bow th,S aO'«ts the enormous lIumbc.rof fiu.mn l~t Slrtlch (ubrics. both \I,-O\·('Q
and knuini. b;n brc:o the
cn be ~p1icd 10 f{ibtil.';S. most inllu¢llti!tl Factor in cuuing rOt m:as..<-produccd
H(Nn'Ct. Ihe MOst irn(lO(lfu'U quallues th." 11 g,am'C:Rli. 10 the: ~dhetl 1151of ("boo bc~. knilt~
desi~ must consider when creating a d~gn are; (abrics are fisted in aJi colwnns because or the huge
.rlghl. IlIltkncsJ. dmj>e. .flfe-I(ll:Ind s/l~" (the. :unOdn! "'!l~ty in different \\'('iShli.
\ 'nudtnl .hOijld Jllnl 10 au,;qutre U $ood &c:t or ToJ/r F4,t.,irl CIIUCfI i:o used (or '''ill-in, 101k1 (or
cqUlpmt'ftl. 'Io-'('\>('.r, M'lInehenl!! are \or) ()(~n~I\c.. d$lJtt In ,,'oven (lIbl'le,.,~'111l;l:
\1Jft' Ihf .(.pl or tit"
rhc-'It':n" m.\rl.('d \Io'IIb;1111IIIIe,ill}.
thai a~not
c·,
denote tbO\('
o.)(nlisil inllllc\lhll(:I),.
calico I~ue close 1(1the \\\!'Shl or Ih~C'kMhas ~,blC',
Klult~ r~lbNC(,r litl:' ..."me' :&1n:I\!bquahl)' mu)t bot
,,)((I 'or Intlkil\Mtoilet (ot' de,l,n.J ,,. jcr)(')' (abt'a.
110,*,,,, ${"jotf! A ttlU \\'orkhl, )lntfun: I> fCqUIn:d
Ida-D)'. II '\.hol,ddbe 90 ~2cln hip-h. • \1(lfk S1111I,n'
hJpc-r Siron,. brown paper is used fOt IXll1ctn,. ·Cult1lll1l0f The calcul:tlor i:i 1tC)\\ It ('omrdOft tool In
P'.m:hm('olor thin card ~hould be used fer blccts thai a1J an-al' of skiLL Ir
Il C'lIlcuJatot is nol 3\-;ubbk we
:arc used rrcqucnd}'. 1be'Ulbk or llliquot p::u1). (see ,,\p~fldi),. pap: 191).
/'rnrtl, t.:sc hard pencil!!lor drnOing p~lt"rb CUI), • FrrnM Clj,,'t';l 1"II11lK:shape' and C'-Ur'\'C$-aR
ooIoumi pt:ncils (or outlining complicated 3R3S. Wl-l1ilablcill a range of sizes: tbey are useful (or
dr.!" ing ~()<)dt\lr\'~ ,\ I1c",kur\'e ""hich ..lao-_,.~
FtIw Pffl' For "'rilinS I.!lc:tr insl.t1Jcliotl.O:
on p:lIIC~
sb~pC'10 be: mOJ)il'lulutcd 1:J 'llw lr\d.ilabJc.
RuI>INr
'rhls is H (OOllrult m31t" bllllncc
• PIlIIO'II ArOIt"ltllf
.\/""k RuJrf painls b)' snipping tlUI a .kC1W,,, or JX.1llrm p,3p=-r
CMrf.td Rill,,_$. For dn\\\'ing long curves, • Panem 1'lllrrfJ
••,,.fIY'S,irl. • PtJI,,.rll 1(.)(lkl
~t $qUO" A bille sct IIqU\.I1\' \Iolilh II 4$- "1\1I-1ei:\ ·",llh'l11 1I~".,:ltI" 'I hetIC:k«ll I'~~or pat1em In
\('ty ukfu1: melrie ,nhlllli ~'lIUlrt'i:c,ln be obllllnfd PQsi1ionon 1\I11)(t or <:Iolh
",."It- T~ \/t't1J(;!Y' • \/1N/t'I.t;,.uul\ Altho\I," nOIC'~nll.ll retr.
bc,.nncr, Ihe), "I'(' 1"\,l1lu3bl~II,)Ih( "floU-) -uudc:nl (or
TNC'UQ' II'~l!1
dn'c:I(lplng tlc:cigl)~
S1K~n USC'~ep..rate sht'llTli lilt cuumg cloth :.nd ·'"Otl1/tJlt("t f.·qIlIIJr","" A dC:$Cnpuoft or computer
p.tpn'''~ cUII.ng I).&I)I.:(\',111 blunt Iht bl.t\lc ...
equipmenl \'UIJ be: Jound on POlIl\")18.) 196
&1Io1DpC'
The: equipment can be obtained at:
Pun J~rI,tJk~ Lid" N('1I1Ilfllt""-,,llufkf'1 Pl«~. /..DN/o.n
Ilf/l., st Y
~-4JUII"« uno Ollt'oj,/lh Sca/~Srl'"'".s Tbae are
~tial (OT stodems 10 record pattern blocks and
JJorpJar,"56 G,~t 'J"icJ¢l!ld ~'rm'l" Landon
a¢tpl3:IlOns: In Ihelr nOI(;book:f.. "'II" 7DF
.f)I"plt"J Gfc',q,- J~I('kn't}qll/lolld. H,uIJn¢~JJ
Slanley Kll.ik IIDI lQW
Tur/(tr', CIrR/{ For luarkins: (II-Hthe final p;,ancm
ooto the: e:loth lind fot ntlltkinjol jillill~ :lhC',...llons-
9
Industrial Sizing Systems
~fC<lSU~('nl 3iur\'C)$ conecr InCII~UrCnlc:nld.atll 10 II Ilaun: wnh b:lf;ie b·ody ml':llIUrcnlcnts 10 use on
ptOd~ ~11in.~Sltnl~l11e)' orevtryco'ltl)'. To l:abels. ;\ finrtl revision :alld p\lbhelttion o( thiS
obl;u" R'b~bk data, IhOUSlUulJlof !iubja::I'l h.I\C' to dl\oCu'l110nIXll)Ctus II Europe.ln or British Siand ..rd "
be' mta.)urtd .,nd It I, VCf)' JIOlcull 10 obtain publIC' not (~I)«hxJ ~1"llIlhe cn~!of 2QO.1. A (urlht"r
money fOf lbe ,.)k. The I""" survey. whkh ""i IOtllily Sl~nd:al'd 1$proposed, EN 13402"': thlj "'Ill ~,n:.te
funded by the government und mnde pubh('l~ :a coding system \vhich ,...in be- circulattd (Of
:r."IYbk, "as In 19S7. Rt.'<:cnlSUf\'e)'S h:n"c been dl!CU(;~IC'u~ in 2004, As European ,,'OdIn, It quue
pri\';1lt onn done by individual e..,mpantes or h:&\'C different froln UK coding this could be (OnlcnllOui.
been jotnt enterprises between the g_o'-e nunent and The usc of standards by manufacturers IS \"OluntaI)'
btgc mailers.. As the OOlnp;_tnieshave borne all, or a and e~plains tbe anarchie systems or mint lhat are
proponion. of the COSts.Ihe)' see the information as found in High Street f;lshion. Despite the .'Ort laking
commercialty valuable and therefore it is "'ithheJd place to obtain more consistent sizing both in the UK
from public use. This has happened to the dal3 from 3nd Europe. the garments on sale in both br;t eed
,he lateSt British S-Uf"\'t)' which look ptace under the small retail outlets nppear 10 be si\'ins jess and bf
diKCtKtn or the Department of Computer Science, information, Pictograms and body measurements have
Unin"n:il)' COllege. london. The su....'cy was earned vinuaUy disappeared, the labels only dispb)"" size
OUI usin.s computer ~nning cquipmem. f\ number of cede. ~1any retail ouueu do nOI bave in-SlOft: tiu
Sy1otC'MSarc now available to companies, Although eh .. n" to ~Iate the codes to bod)' mC'.a:suo::MC'nls..
$Ome problems: remain. the SC'lnncrllcan now make TransJauons 10 Ellr()pcnn code su;e:\ \1Il)' bel"Uft
"Iuble: t\"lCOrdlnssof mOSt (If the l)rinciP'lI bod) mllnufa('turer~ I\hhough the In!}!1order C':II.i!I)osUCi
ID(';bUn:'nlent~ K'quir"d ror clothin",. Thc)' (,-lin111,o orr~r cu'-10111tN lM,d)' Si1~ ch.lrti \\ilb the: rodn..,t ,,,
ereare 31) Im;J,CSof tht body \\'hiell il"c u~ful llppan:nl Ihlll these Yllf)'wuh I'(lcn:n« 10 lht1r nde
informallon liboul Ihe chllnging shnpe o( the mllrLtl.l>,.
roPULlltOD rhc bl~Q.e\t pMblcln rcnl:ain~ the C:O\I.In
the ~n' fln.lnci..1(1In11111: (C"' eompames 1Ih:wdhn, OTllbR DATA SOURCI;S
10 U'\-nt In sceh Inno\'alh'C h.'(hllo!o¥y and Ibc) 1II"C
The Handbook of Adult Anlhropomclr1c and
fk'4Irl)'all In eperatlon in govcmment-sponscred
$Iren,th ~1(asurcnlcnts is another soveee from _hlCh
pro)t'(1$. j\ brgc number of $ul'\c)'$.. parlkt,ll~rl) Ihose
mau.un:mcnl datil nrc available for dc:ugnc:n and
10 <k\'doping countrk:~ ...te untlertllkeD Ujln& ""Jnu ..1
manufacturers, It \\'IIS produced b)' the Consumer
IccbnMllK'S.A resenrcher fronl ~1anchestcr ~1etro Sa(el) Unit (CSU) or the UK [)(patlrMnt o( Trad('
Uni\'(1'tit) has developed ;1 systcn1of In~nu:tl
and Industry. The harldbook is a dd:ign n:sou.R:e
mt25UremeDI using "'110I11throp()loctric stand and a
produCC'd by Ihe Institute of Oocupalional
spc"'ciaI harness. Ergononlics 81 the Univcrsity or Nottingham. Thot"
handbook bl'ings l0t-¢ther all a,';}il~bk anthropometric
BRITtSH J\NO EURorE,\N STi\NOAROS
and strength d~ltli on 266 :-anlhropomctfif; dirtl(1bions
The British Standards Institution has usually bc:co II
and 18 strength meIL~urClnents..Data are presented
m3in .s:uidt 10 $lzinS. IneaSlIrcnlenl$ and labelins.
from 3 range of coulltl'ies fro III Europe. ..\si:J 3nd the
Their nc"\\' Stsndard,;: h(1vebeen adoplw from CEN.
th.C'Europe-an Conllnith,"(' ror Sl:lnd;lrdizalion. 1\.1(bt USA
European ('Ounlr~ including Ihe UK ha'e signed to
adopt IhC'Jl3ndllrd~ ~ISfC(d. ,'b..,
st:lnchtr..Js offered SIZE CHARTS OF !lODY MEASUREME). TS
b) OSI .., prc')('nl ~In:ns I!NI3402·1:2001 ;ind 8S I~TillS nOOK
1;~I.l402·2:2002. ,'hclOC detine h~rm... tlefinnlonJ lind l"hrcc chan,;: tll'C: oO'crcd:
bod) mt)un:nl('nl procx-dUI'Cliand the pl'iln.1t')' !lind I. Dody l11etlsurenlcnlS 40nl lind 6cm incn:menlS
tc'C"Ond;llry dlmen~ion\ u~d for a:lrn"~nt l;thelln,. (mollt fUI'()pclln lIi1ina)
OSI h~ Il.,., publl)hcd .1 CEN dl-sc:u_lIlonroaper 8S 2. Dody Ine;asur<:fllcnt) 'cnl incftmenu cmOS!
121"011.).402·) .hi('h IItlunlly IIS11l1)ru~d bod)' cumnl UK 5lzhltl)
measurement )'l~charls, aflll shO"'lI ., pictosram of J. lJ.OOyIn('a~urenlcnIS S 1\.1LX L ()'OunJ fuhton)
textilestudycenter.com
10
Standard body measurements
...,..,
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I
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\r-..;.: -r
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- - - - - - ::'-~-~-:i?:f:o>.,....;..,/1-<..<.:-.::.:-;,.:- - - -,_-;:..::-...:-,_..J,rr"'-::,-,:-,:-;,_- - - - - - - - • --"
-\ -; "II ~- .......,._"
~ --- . - ....'r-t--7-'-_..... • I I
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......,.o'N!!! _ .. .. -- .. _ - __ ..ctOtIoor
,."hlll'tl\!.. _ ...... _~
0,*141 .. ~
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textilestudycenter.com
12
Standard Body Measurements - SCIll Increments
~1i11n)Ilnli~ compnniCi lire. (or comrnercl..1t(';\tnRJ,.usin, Scm 1nl(I'\,II5:between IIU staes, Tbit ...implifJC!d cilc
(rom ,.1),.(' 10 10 sve 24 CUfll1n(n(~ Ihe ~«
..:11:11/" 8 and a'kn\ .. IRcrcnlC:nti 10 remaln 'he !l{tnlc lI('ro,» the >tu tliInJ;('
and Ih<n:ron: (ftaIC\ eader Aile!ijl\lllc'\, j A 'h.llr ~it('·1.SC'm InCl'('rnc:nl can be t:rc~llcd ror iLlC 8,)
\\'0"'(,1\ \>f "latium -... 1(10"", t72C1n ($n .lIn' n 71/,&n.
S.,....... 10 I~ 14 1& IS :0 ..
~ :'
8I:ST $2 87 9: 97 IU2 11)'7 II! 117
\\AIST 6-1 69 7' 79 8' 89 9J 'J'I
1111'S lIS 93 9$ 10J 108 IIJ 118 I!-'
BACK \\'IDTtl JJ j.I_l }S.4 36.6 37.S J9 40.2 011."
39.5
CIIEST
SJIOULDER
JO.5
11.9
3!
12.!
33.5
12.5
35
12.1t
3b.5
I~,I
J8
lJ." n.7 "14
NECK SIZE
DART
TOP 1\R_..\f
15.6
6.'
16,o1
.16.1
~
7
11
~
,... 39.2
lI.!
31.2
141)•.&
$.8
32.S
'1.6
9.'
1'.4
.tl.S
10
.!6
"10'
)7 .•
"RIST 15.5 16 16,5 17 17.S 18 '$.5 19
ANKLE !J," :. Z4.6 2$.2 :!S.~ 2(0,01 27 27.6
IIiGIl ANK~E
NAPE YO \",,'ST
fRO!'o.'TSIIOVLDER TO \VAIST
:<).
40.5
40.5
21
J1
J1
21.6
"I.~
.1.8
22.2
.2
"2.6
22.S
42.$
43.4
l.)J
4J
-W.~
!J
43.5
.5
...
2-'.6
",S.8
ARl\tSCYE OE.Pn I :!<l.5 21 11,; 21 22.$ !J !l.S 2.
\\'AIST TO "NEE 51! 5iU 91 595 60 60.5 61 61 S
"'AIST TO IIIP
""1ST TO I LOOR
IIOD\ RISE
:<).3
IOJ
27.3
206
10.
!li
:<1.9
lOS
~7
....
21.2
!')..t
21.S
107
;\0, I
:'!1.8
II)!
)O~
UI
1M
}I.$
2U
110
.llJ
Sl.r..Lvr::LF~(jTll 57.$ 58 58.5 59 $?.$ 60 6Cl.S 61
SLI r" ~"NG1'1I UGRSI'Y) 51 ~ 52 52.5 I.' $),~ 54 SA~ 55
, .. ~ \1..... '""..'" ,_rtII""_" Ilich II~u~ m .... )1 oN« ""' ....... 011tot ('1)erN I~ 111(1
"'110.''', .1'11«kk"
..,..11
"lor •."
• la \Iedlllo'•• I~ I" Will." 10 18 -';1..,..,
~MlIUIIDlI\ (rum Ihf ~"llIlIn' 10,1.1 I! r.lf I'. e..
:P.:1
01 dw ..,. Nde\.
ThI,).Ij' eM)( titllnll block. Ir ~1t4)till in, ",)'ks _lIh feu dan ;\.h.Jl)jn'~lrtI"(c,ultcd U,SCme (;t) fllu", bI'~1r:on
"",,16
MEJ\SUIt"M tN'fS R"OUIitEO TO DIIAI, lllE 1.....16 hnlf the "'C'I~UN"lcnlI4 IS.
800lel: BLOCK (C';(wnple size (2) 17 nudway between 2: "nd 14; ~qulI«: dCJ'An....'Ib a
Re(er 10 the ~ilCeh:trl 11'~g(II. rur liland",d bod) dOlled IInc h) point IS 011".Ii~lhne. ~nd JIOlnl19 nn
tn('i)urc:mCf'll$, Ihe hiphll~
.....
1U.pc: 10 \\'&ISI
8Scn,
4. en1
$houkll:r
b;'lck v.khh
12.2Scm
J..l • .acm .·roCI1
.,.-..ist 10 hlP 2O.6cm dart 7an .&-10 one 6nb II-I.'"eksize minus O~7cm...
annSo;."1'e <lcplh 21 em chC$I 3J:."cm .&-11 one fifth neck size: minus O.1cm: dt:M' In (ronl
n«t Uze 37t;m frOIU .should<r f1«k CUr\e 20~2l.
10 waist 'Iem 3-12 hulf chest ml'aSun:nn~nlplus b.;,.l(....Klt.bor
dart. square up,
Squ::t~ dO\', n from 0; squnre htdfw:ay- !tCM!I.S the bkldc:. .1-D heff the Rlcasurcn11:ftl J 21: squ.ln dov.·n ,,;lh
0-1 l .sem. .. detted llne to rKJilll 24 on ":al~lhnc;&nd 25 on
1-1 :trmtC)'C' depth measurement plU$ U..5cm; sqU3~ hipline.
....n>« 26 is the- b",,1 !'(lint 1.5cm down from 2.\; dl'2'a' 11
!-.l hair bU,1 plue Selll [l.e. ((Ir ~flc:-'nbu." (SS. 2) Ink joln n,. 2ft 26,
.. S ..91 SqUlafC up lind do"',,; mllrl: Ihll IIn< Ibc 20...27 (Iltrt \~,jdlh rncasun:n~nt;. dl'ltl\ Ia line- JOIn,n,
«nlf'(' (""" hne. 16 Z7.
J-I (ron I "holiidel' 10 wabt 1l1Ca:liurc:n\cnl:
~warc II-U I.Scm: SqullfC aut "I)pro, IOem 1019
h.tl( ... ), IIC'I"C'\$ the block (1'(,)111 II. 21-30 drll\\'" lint: fro", 27. ,ho'ildet lc:nlt.h
1-5 n..pe '0 "~i\l melllillfcn1CnI1341u.11't t1C'fO'.\ I~ 6, m('.a..\Urt'm(I\I. to touch me line frum 28 29
5-7 ,,;aI~110 hip IneIlJUr~lncnl:square1IC'fU'(~ (0 12-31 one third the measurement ~ .JJ
eeetre front liM. t.1~r"peiut 8 fthl'l gi\~ hlalf tHP :tl ,I. "IKi\o'''.I) b!:1\!JcCI1t.a ""1.12.1: )l;ju~re dcN.n "-llh
rnc:-"sumnC'nl ptUlI 2,Se:IU ,,;',k), • dOltro lint ro ptJint J) 1)11Ihe \~J,.jjdin('Arwi point ).4
on tbe- hipline>
Bscl.: Or.."l\l..nrmsc)'l: (IS shown I)fl di.\lgnamtoudun~ poinb
0..9 OtIc: fifth n«" $Ite 0111'q5- O,2.:nl; dr:a\lo In b:id II. 16. J2.. 31, 30: mC:l~ul'('mcnler the eul'\~
occk carve 1-9. slzO 8-1~ Ircm 14 2.Scm (rom22 lon
1-10 one fiftb armscye depth measurement minll5 sizes 16...20 fronl 1~ Jcm from 2.2 l.Scm
O.7tm: square h31fWl'J),aCI'U$l{ Ihe block. s.i~ 22 26 frolll 1-1 3.Stm from 12 Jcm
9-1 I shoulder-length measurement plus I em: dr;r\\' Dr.1\1o'round the outer edge of the sbapt (rom 1-21 10
hack shouldc r hnt 1('1 touch the Hnc (rQm 10, complt1c the bl~k. when sbculdcr $Um$ are JOined
12 centt'Cof 5hftuldcI'line. t' iJ e-~~nli"llhal the ncc:klind .Itm~o II~ $mOC'lh
11:-13 dm ....•n deued lillc 5C1Ulong ..nd ~1()pIQg CUt\TS,
!:awards Inn, ConJIruCI dnrt I <:tn ~'ide wuh this ltnc:
:as «nll"e (nlfttc bolh ,ide~ of ,InrI Ihe i!lfnC kna:1h.,
l-t.a h-;tlf b."k \\illih nll.::l~ur~lIlen'
plu> O.Scm (';a~. Skot\"t' I)r.lft;, ,1111:·111\,.'"\:(.'
,I\,."C"\\,(p.a,c 22. " .. :I ,,,U-
tiqU..lt'C"up 1015. PJ«."t ,.Ico\'t' (p;t~~24) h) li1 the IIrm~~ tnc')Slu"C"mcnl.
15
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textilestudycenter.com
16
The Easy Fining Bodice Block
Fflr ~Il()'flilinlj dfl:~.:It)b lindC;\~)'filllns: ro.gllll' "net khnnnu~h"~
MIlASI'Rf\1F.I'ITS KI:QUIKPI) oro DR \fTTtlf 9-11 ,hC)uldcr 1C:!lathmC;I\"t'Cment plUi I mil to.Scm
BLOCK (c.~lIm,'I~).1,,\1 I!. C'I.~ Ql1d O,$<:nl !,lX-IMIIcnllth,. D..-d" b;a(k ,houkkr
R(,(Cf co It.< .aee ChllllllXlgc II~ (or 1I111ndlltd bl'le 10 tfiuch lilC line: rrom 10.
m('ZI..urcmelll\. Z-Il hulf back ,viIJth mc.l~utC:J'),cntptUf Ian ease;
tqU:lt(' ur h) I),
SSenl 11-14 hul( tlu: measurement 12 I).
bu"
eape 10 _"ist
.00.t:SI 10 h~p
4.20.6t:IU
ern
shoulder
I);;cll\\'wth
dart
ll.2.lcm
344 .....
7..... f....ronl
:JfllUC}C' depth 21cm ctl~1 3:!.4cm """'I~ one fifth neck SI:eC mlnu.~ O.7cm
neck-size 37crn l'ront shoulder ~16 cue fifth neck 5ize mlnes O..2cm: d:r.M' in (ront
10 W;,iSI 41"", neck Cl,In-c 15-16.
15-11 hnlr the lI'~lnd;u'd dOlt'rne-.t.J;ummn&.
3-18 hnlf Chl'$l measurement plus I crm, ptl1Shalf
SqU3~ down from 0; square h~"r\vnyacecss Ilk the measurement I$-17: square up.
bIocL. tS.19 hulr the:measuremem 3 16 min," 2c:m.
~I l.5an 3-10 half the measurement 3-18:)Oln 1S-20 and
1-2 llf"fMC:)'~depth measurement plus 1.S':m~square t7 2011)(orinn ~lilrt
11-21 I.Scm. square OUt (Scm to 22
W hair bust plu",7'~lnILc. for 88~1" bu.\.: (88 • .2. 17-13 drawa line fronl 17.lIhouldcr leolth
,.. 7 'CO 511. SqUl&JCup lind down; mll.k Ihis trne I~ m(':,\Qrt"nlcnl pili, 0,5(.',,,. re touch Ilk hnot rmm
C'Cnltc(ronllint. 21 22.
J-4 front -.huulder 10 \\111111 nU:~I\\lrcnlrnl. squ .. «,
18-2.4 h:tlr the me.uurcmenr I! 18;i41ua~ d~n 10
h::t.lr.... )· llIC'tm' Ih~ block (,oin ". poinl 25 on the \vtli!.;lllnc.and 16 on the hipllnc,
I ..~ na~10 \\.ti~1mell\Urrl'ncnl: l4Iu;II"c."em» 10 6
Dna,.,' l.rn,&c)'c as )111)\\(I en !.Il,ljJ'llnl luuc:h-na POI('I)
5-7 \\<1"' to hip Inea~UlenICIII: IQ t
MllI.lfe :K'J\)~~ II. 14,24, 19,2;\; IU.,:.I,"urClncnt or 'be ('un~
.!Jt.C$ 8 I.. (rom 12 1,_3t:m (tom 18 !.2Scrn
Sort $Ild '6-20 Ircm 11 Jcm (rom18 1.1Scm
0--9 00(' finh neck Size mmus O.2cnl: dm\\ In back Stz('$ 22-26 from 12 3.Scm (rom 1$ .l.lScm
n«k c""he I 9,
1-10 one 6fth armS('ye deptb I'ncaSul'ement mrnQJ Skt,,, DruO II one-piece ).1CCVC'
(p. n. or::l '''-0-
I em; squan.- hlllt\\"dy across the block. piece sleeve (page 2 ..) IQ 61 the arnuc~~ measurement,
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textilestudycenter.com
18
The Tailored Jacket Blocks
MEASURI'MP.NTS REQUIRP.D TO OllAr,. TIlE 1"'-11 (n,nt ~hl)uldl'rto W'.ti'lt m~~umnenl; \qu01rr
8LOCK (b.:s,nr1c: ~il'(!12) h..lf"ll), II(,'OS~Ihe blo<k from 11.
Re(er 101M \11.(' ,'hIli' (I).lse II) (ut !lUlndlltd 11...18 ene Uflh I\l."(k~I/<: plu..\ Itm Clan.
mc:'~UrtmCl'Il" 17-19 one liftb neck toile: dr:.w 10 nccl. C'un'(. JOin
pain, 181(\ 1)01(1\ 10.
.....
n."~IQ ~-;aI~1 .a Iem
SStnl !lhuukJer
btlc;J: Vi i(hh
1225 em
).I Jcm
18-10 ,.houldcr nlt'1ISlIrtIUt'111 phD dOln .lm.afK'C'
plu, (),$e.n (f!luS reduced d:lf1 111I4)'o\lIn«ptu).lcm) .
... lSl to hip 2O.6<m dun 7em 18-21 one thlrd shoulder- ntCJjuft'mC'nL
arnucyc depth 2l em ch-CSI 32.4an 21-21 dart measurement (hair d.Jrl mafUcanC'nt,.
n«k W:e 37crl1 t'n:llu !lhould(( 14-13 h:tlf (he.!it plu:\ h••U·the m(a~urt'm.:n' 11 II
IU \\'ai$-1 "em plu$- I em (3.Scnl). S(IUUrC up.
l3-U one third the measurement 14--19.
l_portHI ~'(lle The easy lining block has a reduced !.3--lS hlll( the measurement 14-23: squall." do.'ll to
cbrl for b~bu~l shaplug. Rerduce 'he )"ti)ndard d:1I1 l6 :tnt.! 27 (square up 2enl fot bus. polnl 25~
mc'~SUrmK'.nl by huU: The in'lruC1ion30 for the e:u» Jnin 21-25 and 22-25; ensure Ihlll tbc cbrtlincs an."
611mg block are shown III brackets, the same kng~h. Re-mark point 2l.
lO-18 l,:tn: join 28 22 wuh II tunc.
Squa~ d(J\lon (rom 0: square h~llr":1.)' ilCr'OS$ the bIod. U-19 half the nlc;t~urc'n('nl8 23: squan= dO\'Q '0
0-1 1.1San lU and 31.
1-1 nc.d. to "'.Ii",: lo.I,llI.lre"cros~ Dr:.\1,·ut",u'i(:)'e "" $ht}\\n In di~l#rnrn louchlnJ point"
1-3 fini~cdk-nalh: llqul'~ Ilcro..',,- 11. ~, 29.24. 28; nlCOISUrcmC:111 of lhe 4"Unn:
2-& .al~1 10 hip: square 1Ic:n:'~", (IVUl ~ (rom lJ
1..5 .rtI\~'C'deflth phl~;\cnl (SCIl'):~qu"rt I~ron 8 IJ 2,2Srtu t3CM) 1,1jan Cl.1ScmJ
1-6 h~1fI~ ru...;,~urCnltnl I 5. ~qu:lI('uut II> 20 2.7SClll(3.Seln, J 25cm Cl.1S(,n)
1..1 qu ..nee liIrnl!14')'f dcr1h nlCIl'iun:nlcnl:"lu.t~ \.1/(\ 22 2(, 3.25cIl1......'ln. 2.7jan t3.7jcnll
O.L
54 half ~(k "'Idth I)III~Ien, C3t'm): AqU,J.~ up 10
9."d 10
10-11 lan: square oUI. CLASSIC PRONI'llI)OESIlAPING
0-11 one GAb neck siec (plus U.Jcm): dra'" na.-k Add reqUtted but IOn SI:IOO.
CUt\C. ~4.. rl: flOinl$ .12 ;atld .lJ en \\'aiSlrint nnd h<mline.
12-13 shouldct length plus I.SClh l3c:m). These l3-J..I Ion: join 31-l:J \\-ilh a curve,
me:&S\lJ'CJDC"nlS seclude sboutder case of O.SCOl. 3l:-3S one third the- measurement 3:!-34.
S-t .. lulr bun plus Scm (12c1n):square up. sqUStt >4-36 one firth the: rneesuremem 31-34. dr.l\\·ln
doo--n 10 1$ lind 16. front carve,
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MF.ASURI'\lEN1·S REQUiRE!) oro !)RA~" THE ~Il h.llf back \\'idt" phl\ 1.5m. (4cm~; SoqU;ln: up
8LOCK (c\.lImplt' \t)'.(: 12) '0 Iland 14,
Rt(' to the )lLe thllll (1).1,1.: II) rOt lilandlltd 1......5 2cln: !!(IUllh;out.
measurements, 9-16 shoulder measurement plus 2cm (3.Sem,.
These me<l~urclnt:nIS include: $houldc:r Qtc of O.5cm.
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nape 10 ,,:alsl
SSenl
41 em
sboukler
back width
12.25cm
3-4."cm .~ront
",.. iSI 10 hip 2O.6cm drttl 7"", ~17 one fif,h neck gizl!plu$ O.2(m (O.6em).
armf,(;)"e ckplh 21 ern ch\'$1 32.4tm 4-18 one fiflh neck size plus O.3tm: drn in front
oeck size 37cnl from shoulder -rt cm neck C'Uf\'C 17-18.
to waist 17-19 durl measurement (half darl mt:a$u~enl).
Joil'll poim 19 (0 poilu 14,
Importaol Note' The easy fitting block has a reduced 19-20 the measurement 9-16 minus Ian.
d3n for less bust shaping. Reduce the standard dan !O--21 I.Scm (I cnl):join 19--21 \\;Ih:t strghl eurve,
m(:3;surerneol b)' h:tlf. The in1\I',ICligns tor the: C'a~) 3-22 half chcStplushalf the m~~un:~1 17-19
filting block arc shewn in brackets. plus 1ern (4CI1I), Square up,
22-2..1 one third the measurement l-18.
SqU;J~ dO\' n from 0: square h;)lfw.IYIICro~ tbe blod. 22_24 hulf Ihe measurement J 22 (sqU3t( up 3C1n 10
0-1 lcm. m:..rL bu~1poinl). Join 17 24 and 19 2:.& to form d:t.rt.
1-1 armltC)'c depth plus 4 COl (61:111):square 1IC'tt)U. 11-25 hulf Ihe 1l1C;j:(,urcmc:nl12 22; sqlQf'C dM\"ft 10
W half bU~1plus Hlem (15(ln) [i.e, for 8Sc:mbull: 26 and :!7.
(88 .2). 10.54(,011. Square up and <10"11, m;!r" 0,..\10' IlllnS(;),C;t\ "IIO\Io'nin di.lar:rm IGucbIR, poinl,
Ihis Itnc Ihe CCl1tl'C'front line. 16. 1).25.23.21: meusuremeru of the CUI'\~
l-4 front .).houldcr10 "'lli~1 meusuremenuMlU"~ frorn 12 (rom 22
b3Ir",,), act'O\!. the block rl'()l1l4. 8 i' 2.75cln fJ,2S('m) 2:2:5nn C2:.7Scm)
1...5 n~pc: to \'ilIi~tmeasurement plu$ O.5cm: lKI~t( 16 20 3.25clu (J,75tm) 2.7Scm (J.lS('I'l1)
~to6. 22 26 3.75<011 14.35<m) 3.Z5tm 13.75cmj
5-7 \\lIlsl 10 hip measurement: square ecrcss 10 $.
NOll' For simple shapes Ii.e, kimono block, for m:t.S$
Back production. equalize the side scam by makin~
~9 one 6nh neck size plus O.4cm (O.Scm): drmr.·in 2-25 half (he measurement 1-3: square do\\-n to
*1: tl«k CU rve I 9. point 26 on lhe \v;.listlinc and 27 on lhe hipline.
2-10 half the measurement I 2: Squan: Out
1-11 quarter armscye depth measurement: square S~'(' Orali the one- piece steeve (part' 12) or 3 rwc-
OUI. piece sleeve (p~St 24) to iii armscye,
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MEASURI,\lLI\1'S RI<QUIR!;1l I'() DR"~T fill 1-13 sleeve ICII~lh10\\'n~l: .....Ul8t~acfOl.Sbolh "'~)I$
O:-''''·I'ltCESL~~Vb UlOCK « •• ,mp" ,1,<I~I (or \\ rj\l line,
Re(er In the ...i;,,, chari f'),;I~~
'I) (\lr IItlindaru Squ ..re dowu !'t\lnl 1111111,11210",rDI line 10 m;llrl
m("il)lJrtm('nl~ f'C.'Ifnl.) 14 IUhl IS.
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textilestudycenter.com
24
The Two-Piece Sleeve Block
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textilestudycenter.com
26
The Sleeveless Blocks I, is II ...mple m~lIer 10 draw Ue'\\ ..rm"i()c ~pcs onto
.. block or !Idllj"lh,"\lplll tern, I r" \\ ider finished shape
J~ I't'qUltrd.onen the uluJcr;lrm~am the requeed
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I SIMI'I.I! SINOI Ill'SIlAPES
UK 1he:d.,rlle~ block for \\0\'(0 fabric:>.,he- knll'lt-ur
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! DART TI(ANSF1~R
Treee block «!quircd wuh reduced bust darting.
"otIl If tewered nrmscye 1.$ required dr:t\\ in :trrrlfC)'r .tupe.
Drop II \c,:I'IJt<l.Uncfeom base of bUj( d:a.n
Cut up line: "lose bust J:l.fl. !l.1ark poUlts I, 2:. 3. 4
_-- .1 ..~
2-5 is the measurement 3-4. Oro",' D«:W side scam. 1-5.
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3 THE CLOSE FIlTING S~E~VELESSBLOCK Ora" new IIrn\~)'C:dCl'lll1line I (m abo\'C ongan;sl tme,
TrAe'I:the dose 6uing bodice block. Nlark. points 16 \Ian. pcims lund ~ 1em in (ronl5'houklcrC'dge. ~1ark
Olnd31. ~101rkside seam 1-2. pcims5 and 61cm in and t cm up(mm 16and 31.
~ nC\\ $ide se:)m lifl~"$I.Senl each lIiQ("of I !.. CUI 1-1 1em, 1)(;)\\' 111;\\" 3rnlSC)'Cusin$ poinlS 3• .s. 7.
round bodice piOCC$: rc'juiu Ihe side seam 1-2. 6.4.
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Shuping the Waisl
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29
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
2 FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN
I)RESS STANI)S ANI) TOIL~S I \\fhell :I (I,Irl,-td Une meers n ~If1lI,ht 11M It mUA
'1 15PQS'lbk 10 ('ul (\\It I'IdUttns without" dttj" Nn hUG h )"1001111).
'IlInd ~t;ln)' ~plt whu sew for pleusure do no' h.;&\C' mu~t bC' pc,rC'C't ~tfILc.
1 :-';C'Ckand :.(ln~(:)'c CUr\!:'_,.
00<. ;>Ul"t':III dc:dan tllJVclI "T\! bc:'Ullrully ,h:apcd.
"0'4'(\"(1', 'he) ~r.:U \'cf)' \',llullblc p~ o( c."pedully where 1"0)' mI.'(l It fC)ld hn¢. 1'f(1)Cb (Ur\'C)
equipment. Studt'nt!lshould ccmbme fbll pattern an: \'('1)' usC'I'ul for dr.I\.,.ing cuned L1no.
C'Ulhn,l"',Ih \1,0.1.('In the dr~s~ ~u'nd.~I~nkIt:~( .' Pauern pie«i IhMI«re 'CUt lind"r~d' (;In 51\( an
,hat kJok acup,,,-blt' UII :1 Iltll pitl."'eof p.lPft ",...n loak unt\'('n ocrnne. 1)"'1\\ II J:J I) snu,lolh (.'\1:0 line.
ugl) :and distoncd on the rounded form of the bod) -' when a dan l'l machined the bOUC'or lht chri K
or 1M dR'.SS llUnd. If .. dress stand is 1101M';;til.;atlk. dt-.Iv,11Up"'(lfd5: this ereatcs ~I'V' sh.ap:.. C ompcftSO'llt'
)V'u can 1ol\C the fisu~ of:t (:C)IIe:lSIIC
Ot lOut O\\n for thiS by :>h:lplnt; thl:' base of tbc clatt dOO*oI't"'3rd)on
bod). Tbe making of calico toiles is ~ntjul ~hcn the seam (-').
dcSI;nm;: ad\'l)nctd styles, ,\ dC$lgn toile i$.1~ patlun
('Ul OUI in (:IliO():snd mude up to eh«k und per(e.:t C1.OSE FIlTING BODICE DARTS AND SEAMS
tM eloign. Drupts and intricate cuts can be: '\\"OrtC'd \Vhen the \\'Orking peuem b. c;:ompictcU the darts And
011the sl3nd bc(on: me loile is sewn sesms of 3 eJC):iCfhlin$- bodice can be sb2pCd 10 Pc :t
\Vh~ the loik ~ marte up. it llh(luld be 5«0 on ;a bener HI. J·(QU-"C\'Cf. ill most mitiS prociUC'ljon palltms,
mo\lng con.likltr the I'In)J)OrllC)ns.and to
figure to the sea m land dart IIne~ rtll.:un ~tr:atght
CftJ.UR1M eeeect ameunt of ca.;c ha,. been allovow. 5 To avOid lihal P Itoin" at the buu thanen lhe
ItnSlh or Ih~'b\l~ldun lind rront ~:tisl ~rt b)' lan.
6 land 7 To aehicve II nll~d,hllpc- .Itound lhe
TIlE P\TTER,
d~f'lhr'Olt::n'.curve Iho lIid.: searn ",.,hll) In)\"anh (6)
Tbree tJ.rrcrtnl t)j'k'S of 1)llItel'n lire "",,-d b)' desl,ncN
Jnd Ihe bu,t lind wl,I~1 dafb ,~hahll) l),u ... rdJ (7 .and
.. hc-a draft,"s p.lHtc:m~11 locIIt~,"bllry
10 knO\\ lhe
8), Th, .. ."elhod CIIlI IN \10:('(1on the Judr ~ .. tb ('If 'be
dltrft'C'n«.
sl('e\'(' (tt)
Tk 8hK:k rlal'('f" ., is the b'I,Ic: p~llIt:m INII Ii u..k'd
"" • mm ror IiU .1d.lplllliolli 1"hco block. Polttem Ij
1)., fIt"~II~('Ihl,v 1I/{"'f(#I"/l '~1"
J."'ff.
D., flO' o,t',.fhll/H' (nulxlmunl Q,jan daru. 0 San $Jde
traced Of '\II h«frd' onto pallern ptlpcr 10 prooycc the
and "k'('\'C "C,lIM(),
.'Orkl.ng p;lltem.
TlK- \\orkillJ: '·.tl('f". ~,ili lISl"<l(Or nllimn, OUI 1M
PRINCII'LI!S0111'A'irl:.RN ~lf\KIN(;
b.»ic:' SI)lt hnes lSud dt'sis.n reJI\un!'\' «('.S, poct<u.
Thl; rotlcm,jngt:htlJ)lC~ (Q\'cr p;.lh:rn lJdospcotllOn"
eoIbts. buttonhole pialo:iogs., 1·I'ttetll SC"CI~I'I$aR
m;anipulalil'l# the bltlCk 1(J make;: difl'Cl'C:nlde::s:itns,
1rac.W ofT -and mily b<" furllter ad>1plc:d.Complicated
st~ksftU} nred n number of trlliis :.'It this stage.
s.a.s.c principles :lfC common 10 many pauc:m ~~
these $.hould bf: ('()I,sidcri."d~rore one btsins.
Tk "'IO~Irllll(·m, •• i~the Pilltc:rn froiD"hit" the: Seztm Lines ••• :.t pallern piC'C1:t.Jn be CUI ~"f(»>
",rmcnt ~;n be cut. It must be clC:;lrlym....tkcd "llh ~n
\·crtically. horizonlall),. tliu£:onully. wi.h t'UJ''t'd lind
1M mfOrmalion required tor luuking tip the 13rmm.L
ttc.; \\bcn Ihe Sl-"'Ctiollsnrc jolocd the pallc:rn plett will
Befo~ C(ltnmcrK:inglll\} adapullinn the foIlO'l\",'
b;t\'c:a st~m. bUI lite ba'\ic s:h.l~ I'1!m:tltlSthe: f;ln~('.
poinl' Ihould bC' e;:C)n~ldcrcd:
Dart ~haping ean bt: Ino\cd 10 scam hnes j,O thallbC'
t. C'hoc.hc the carreel hlock~ /e,s. If., bam'l~r
shaping n!n,.nlns hut the ,11In dis::,ppears (m 2 page
u)1c i" tequ!l'td \I~1''' (nsy tiltin~ Ih,)U~ bloc-k)
iW),
l. lXade Ihe' length: I(,pp,thcn or .hj)r'~n Ihe bhxt.
Stilipc'. ,II JI.llfn'C'111 \,':Ul 61 4.'10,<1),to the 6,1,1,,\ be
3_ l)tadt: If :In)' elllOyntti""llfIUM:)'e ili n!quln:d «SIX
I~'('f\"d orm~)'c
h:f. Z3 1}.lgc:.s,I), Ji('ml.(ildna or 1,'/1&), IillinS in (h.lf'K'.,Thl' '" ilchk"\~
b) "sins the blocks \\'hh (lr \\ Ithout 'Ih:lfMn,
SoUle:<s:lmple~ fll' ch.IlIt:I,', or P......Ut'f" ,h.'lpc:sa"
GOOI) LIl'-I,S ,\1'1) ('UllVI!S ",deilln, 1111:O'UUIIC., •• II\,tcrllll, <\Ina. bod)' C4I-:!IC.
Rcfc.r 10 the dlOlgnlMIi 011 Ih~ I).IM.~
npJ)o~ilC. hidden ~hllpc:l ,., ,l.Iddl1l~ pl('-lil" and &odel~
\\"h<n draning p:lllern~ It is ~~~ntl.lllh"l hno ..nd pun' ..nd bC'UlIhlll)!!$..• ,nddinit \I, idth 10 ,he
"",r\C"-1n: .!otnuc1lh.:1$ 'Illy UIII;\'!:n IInc) \\ill ,hO\\ ~ d~Il!-11h)' ,uck-. ut g,ltheN;
un_sjgbd) bump~ on the finished llarlll~nt. eoDe ~tUlp:$, .••.• "'i..tening the- h.c:mhot' o~
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l\dcU"'1t1·1t'('C5., \VIII:I1u~ll)ing 1)(I(l:Cl, J'N:plum1. aood line> Ilnl.l ,lIllre", \Vhell I:unin, Inlne.fC' ~11C'mc
r;anC'l" ft;t.P'- cCCcon,idtt cnfl:full)' the b;.lln~"Cof the ,.mIlIlIlJnOunt~ or the b"'ic bloc'_' nl,l) be ~ ot
""'$l'. .mlall p..rl~ .ttldc:d, 11o,,' 'nu~h eee on do Ih, ..
Bod) ,\lo\flItmt , , ,In ,IIUI'( ~ld\,:,t1c.:dI""ctl:tn cutlJ"S dt:ptnd~ on one\ ~killllnd 1:"pc'1('n4~Th3c'" "'h> " I)'
p.lIU (If bod.KX'): arc lidded 10 ~lee'·C'(.\\then \tolLln, se d,ftlC'ull 10 CUi the ~ublle ",h.lpcs lI(h1C'\cd by our
the-e db;,n, ,11,,01)," IX' (l\\',H~ Iluu the body n,u,1 M iop dC"'i@-ne>tiil,
lib'<: 10 fIK»'C. II tS onl)' on wlde full gunnerltJ thaI CUlltll# indh'Jdulll g.ltmcl,l:i J;i\n dC'SlJftC'f'J-
much
'l:'f) laDlpl( ihllpC'lOC:IO be used. more' freedcm: Iho)' nee nOI fC's,lnclro b) tbe pm
Bn.firul Sh.~ it j, .11\\·u)'1In«t$.._~lr)' to' hlro": Irn'l1)~nd Ihe r.,btil,~used ill ''''''$ "rod~1OtI
textilestudycenter.com
32
Scum Allowances
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~fanurOteCu~rsrequite finished pauems to h;.r\"C seam Fabrics thal frJ)' e,lsily ",ill require v.i.ckt turnings
al~'3nc:.n added. Some require their ddjg~f'$to e$peti:llly around facings a nd ~ollilrs.
ad:tpi patterns from blocks .hlll'"~3d)' include 1M The \l.-idlh of the seam aUO\\'anCC" must be marttd
$I:01m;atlO\o\"3nce.This is n dime-oil "I~" for:t bc,inn(1'.
.1 il> bttlcr for tolude,"s 10 \\'ofk with nell patlC'rM
on thl: pauero by lines or I\olches.
No IICIUI'I 1I11()\\'.ulce is required on " (old line.
(thok" .ithout seam allowancej: ('sp«i~Uy14M" It iii imporHlll1 lhnl seam allowances add<d 10 (he
dr.Jfllns compliC:ISledstylei. The seam tlllo" ..nee (;In p:ll1em 'Ire .1C."Cuttllt
,Ind cle:l,l)' mart~
be- Itddcd.Oc""al'dll.
Se.am allO\loOtncc\\idlbS Vilr)' ,,·ith the ')PC ot TOILE ('1\,' ERNS
m"nurlll."u~ lind ttl.nncili. '1'1u~ tollowi"S c~lImpk\ II If; nOI nc.«'losaf)' 10 add seam 1I1t0\\1Intej; It (hi,
..~ III &n1C'f'ill gUIde, Stage. the)' can be Illlll'l:td dll'('(ll), on tbe C;;tbeo.
6a\l( Snll~
I.Scm.
t." ~tdtsc.lln~:II)'I( \(.Ints • I 10
INDUSTltlAL IJA1*1'~ltNS
£.Iosf'd ScanlS e.g, collars, cuO's .•. O.Scm. The $(':311) hncs are not marked on IhC':K'pilileru. The
HC'ftlS deplbdepcnd ..onll-h:'I>e:tnd fini~h •.• I 10 Scm. ~m allowance is usuntly .!lUlled In the maltln,: up
Deecranve scams usually require Inon: seam speeiflcation und only varying seam alJo-<lJK'CSwill be
al~ 'aace, marked b)' notches.
33
A ~uon l)8t!erl'\. Pattern Instructions
s.m tlflO'S ftlfl
not ma.<ted
I$O/I~
alit! I ~
IIOC."',
",If I 1)& ..
• •
•
•
•
-.. •
SD/10.1..,.12 ,
tut1 (\I" "'"
•
•
Q 1SOllOOwe 12
i t~("'12pw
To ('nable' lbe' garment to be made tip cerreeuy 1M 1, Construction lines ••• these: include- d3tts.
foll""ln, in$tructioni m~1511)( mllrl:.c:don I~ bUltOl\t,(),e;s.. I'QCkcl plrl(:lniS- Iuck'k. pkoal lintS.
f'Qllrrn deecrative ,'ileh IInc;e.These linC')life m.. ,k.td on
I TM namr or each piece. the pauem or shown by punch hol«.
2. ('cnltt bit!:" .Ind centre from I, (.ifnln linc" ,. to It(:hk\t tt.< clTc<t )CHI f'fqUI~.
1 The num~for pi<'l."d 10 be CU, )'01.1nlUl(1 un~eKtllnd Ihe:('Irlllt:lpicof pLac.nl ~
~t raid,.. pauem (Ill II,., correct ,"lin or Ib~ r.tbric(\.((' U\'"CI
5. 6.al.ncx- mark. .• Ihr't nrc UM:d10 maL: 'ure ~~,,),~tltrl:the atintlhne
""tlh lln IIr~' ~1..tk
p;&lktn PK"CC':'Ire M:"~It lugetJh~r III 'hI!' COrfUt Ih(' tr.lin lint'son the "',}ri-.ina Jl"tkT'n bc(O((' II Is
point... on up inlo 'Ccll(lIl~,Onee In pl~ II Q.n be
6. Scam ilU()\\J1)Cc.s.~ these I,!UII be n'.ltk('d b) boo d,ffieuh 10 (hid the correct gruin on cocnpl......tnf
roUJ'JdlbI!' pauem Dr nDtchc:o.,II ellf.'hend or 1M pattern KCllons..
-e.. m If a poillem j( nell (has Ill,)1I1::ijnt 9. 1~llc:rn.lIil,e.
alro.~). mark this etc..rlr on tbc pauere 10. SI)1e no.. e.g. SI)/103.
textilestudycenter.com
34
-, ,/V
\
. "\ .
)\
/1 \ I
\ /'
'\
~
.--
1\ <,
.
.
.
. /} :-
)/ r ./
<
.
». I I\. <,
0 u" O"r'
''''lrl" Slrau/fh·r tmtt round (mnt
""'" " nl
.... 'Iraee round fronl bodt«" block.
dr;t\\' In the \';list ;Chaping. One"" a
line from a. point ott .-ai-it side seam
to bu\it perm, CUI up tht: fiDe.
CIO$C bU!(1darl ;.and front "'<1i)1
dan 10 fna"!: II \cry brgc dm ttl
base or side seam, This tars" dart
Neckline Armscye ~'II"be p~ce.J 4'1the- -'1liQ posiljon
~
<,
':0, N(lIt \\fheft lhe bu}1 dOl" ,. 1ftlh't'
filial po!thion tor the do;i,gn.
shor",:n h by 2nn
--
''''''''''' ,
, ,
,---------
--:1--
,;1.....
-i---:,-"'" -
,-.--"---
_.... ....
«fill ....ffOt'lt
t
r
::',
•
- " ....
•
J-_,
c_••
"01'1
',
....
J
_~J --
f
'·Ot.
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38
1 2 Ol)cninl:~
10\\ ft; r rRO' 'rs
I (J'IIII;I.IIIK'\\." can ppr »I (rocl T.
"",«<t. Mt'\C..,...., .uri 10..sen ....
po..llillnI),•• na:lltnc_ 'tde uu1l
dllli ~I"rl'\\ It ben1.. uScfrum M\:\'hnr
to b\l'" I"Iunl (1o~dla" Cor~t
~lIlIhll)'d'~ll'rlal n«k"n.:.
-o
l S rANIli\RI)UUTrO/'.~O
-o I lION I
00
.\'1ur" button hoki
(bultontwl<, O\(1'bp
II~ bUlton~nd
._1iM
OR crntft (.ronll.anc'
by 0.1em t.
..J'PRU... Uc;Id.; lhts
\;lt1(1. .llb Utto( boltoa. Fold 00lC'I
l ,\SYMlIIlTRICAL FROl>'T
rrl*~C'complete(ront 0( ~ ......
bullO" Ilnl'. ma,\' bqllOaMIo.. ...
butlolst.nd Or:w.III~ \Iw.
iotpilrllC ',,(lns·
lr;ti,'t Itn ('~nt to hulWil .... .dd
5 butlon ..l ..niJ anJ ntC'nd r......
'
-o
0
o t, SIIIRI I RO)'.T
Itl}thl I:,nfll .llIt! bllltOft}tand I ~~m
-o \\'J\li! I)rllw II hne I jcm In (rom eenue
('\1,11 \Vh('~llhrou.h (root str,Jr ~,,,,t.
ill \'~IIIi,111bUII~n hoki- on «n1A' (ronl
lin('.
1,.('(1I>ronl Add buuomu.ad Md A.ft
C.\tcndtd (....aft. )t'ftl .-.de.
39
1 low cut front
,
,,
f~flfl""
~."I ....
•, , -,
-_I ...,
..\,
, ~,
I
u.
.... ,_ J~
u •
3 Double breastedfront
,
...
c.'It' •
,
• , ,, ' ,
,
•
••, '••
..
,, '
) ·••
,•
.....I .... - I
• • I •
~
• • '/ •
• •• ~
.... u
,
,- loft-
5 Asymmetrical front
~_r·.,
.... __ .. "
;r-~
6 Shirt front
-
•
•
I
•
·
I
·•
-- -
I
....
~n
.,.,
••
I
bWlIQllIiN
, I
...,, • •
.' .. ..._
I,
•,n
,.
..... '11 ... '
U'
-
•
•
~
I •,
f
,, ,..,.,
.to
,
hn_
•
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40
I)~RT~ I' SF \ \IS
7 8 O.irl,(;lft 1w p...ad. iQ,01. if ,h(:II('"m
1('0 Ihrou,h IhrblHt poutl If l(';UR e
II~") fron'l ttkbu" poIl\l.I ,..ndM, Pf
fol\oC ~ ,11.1,11 he r'nl'Ilftld to pc ~pc ,~,
thchu\',tll •
7 IIU,lf)\RTI'\lRTI( \1.
Sl",MS
trace RUln,,1"''''ICC bkM:k R'quu\'d
I)r.lw Il hlte (rum boa"l sboukkr ~r,
10 lUI' or \10 •• 1.";1iJ:ln_ Tran$ler bu,l d.. r,
In centre shouJdc:r. Cut OVIf'iilMI
~llon" and Irok"'C' mUDd.
Cunc p.lttcl aDd SlICksc:ams~,sho<Ir. II
o St."pc" ".;aJsthac .d. ba:sc d' ~
o
o 8 8l.ST DARTI' CLR\ED
"~RlICAL SE<\MS
1 raee round bodKC' bkJd;. rcoqvltCd
DN\\ In OIled SIde ~~ ud t'UI''C'd
p.melhn~; dl"il'A in fC'qlJlrtd "mount
nf \~III\t~h.lp'n,
onI~ hrl("\. Dr;~.1
Huett\)ln (ronl pancllo tM base of
hu~1dll'I
('ijII.UUl'-1ncl ~Itoru..lra« round
('I,,~ bu...' dol" ~ lnn"(tf II to ",,*1
I IInC'~h .. pe ~"Jn_",~pc _"blllrlC' .I.'
N\(' or J'olMt"
9 HI \1 DARr I' HORlLO'lAL
Sf A \1\
1 (.Ice round bodJ« bkJcok rcqw.rnl
fI""k ,o~C! OIll'A 1D tack )'P,"" 11M,
9 10 )11lJ'(II d~n 'em IOG.l'llUC)~cd.Ic
from b.;1~ or $houkkrd3t1_ CU1.1V.0'I)
)ok(; cto-e lIhouldcr d...rt, Ora_ In
Sl.lu,I!''eneckline,
Il:u·r.: OntA' paMl hn.:., potnJ$. I 1
0,..,'01.~h,bl "olD' sbptn" Cut up
p,lMI Trace muod b;ad. pialltent
.f~t rr..
nilct" bIIsl d:m to 5ak p.tJKI
o • linor ,),..,. tn "q~ acd:_ ..ad (tont
00
00 )"'''(hM(:8.I"~ )W Mdtr.«
00 {\-lund (1oll< bu't d:ut.
fU III sr o, R\
D \RT 1100 (1)
SlIlM~
I race r\ulnd th.ldl...
~ b5od; ''''luuC'd
1)'11\\III l"'ln~l hue" on bIoc-~ (·UI Inlo
~\l,h1"\'Irilt.""("round tcw.C'r~,junto.
IIjl~k \ .."" L:\IC'mJ ~c..dAn to C\J$t:
01 )okc t·lo~ lWrt
Ck>;< buSI cbJt
','rofll \0"'(,
41
7 The bust dart in vertical seams
n
..... .-
.....
,
,
'''''''
GI
""
• od
I ,,
,,
-
.... ,,
J~
u
- .- - --
L
~. trOt'll
,
.... ..
" ,
I ,I
'
,
......,.......,'c...::..:;..;.:J
~__''''''''',.aJ .._
• "'" ,-
9 The bust dart in horizontal...seams
'" ....." - _......."';:iI>Hl!~II.
,~ " .. ~ro----
" .. '
"\. ,, ~,
't, \l .. &1 0 ~ ('O~ r1
, ~
-,.
.-"\
I~
...
.
'~ ,, ,,
"
..... ...,
I
. ..
e
~
v \~-,-,.
(
~
!
~
u
J~_ - ...........
10 The bust dart in curved ~seams
, _10 yOI<,
:;:II:
•
..
-
n ,,
, bon1
, , I
,
.. .. _ ... -
..," tld~bodl' ,,- ~
u
1.
textilestudycenter.com
42
OAKI ~ I' f~Ll'ESS
11 OJr,,, can be- pbl."C\J in fu.~,- '.
tuc,"", ,;aIMh ,ad ~
12 I 2 d" rded b) 4
... • _. ,,..,.
C)'=
,, .
"
. n
=
-_ "" "I
•
•
•
...,.
..... ~
[ """ "~
u...
,
....,
-.-
13 The bust dart in pleats
,, I
.
•,
;
I
-:
• •,
Ii
'.ac\ I
L._~,. ....
~_I...
, _
I •
•
•
•
..
n
J
f
textilestudycenter.com
44
14 GATHERED RUST SF~\~I
14 'rrllCt rnllnJ fined bc:>d~ baod.
-rrllnsr"r bU'i1dan 10 annSC)~ draw In
lOhupt'dhu~t seam Ilnd ell.lrnd ,",1\')",
bllck. ~111rkbol.,n,,\:, .,.,inls 601'pM'IIOn
(II' 1P'IIII:r~1)':1\\ a line- (rom (rnnl
anuscye 10 :.h:.ncd b~1 k~m ..s
~hl)\\'n,
Stlttpt'd I"l'(Inl1'lIntl (Ul nil)' ~~r
St.'(ti0I11Ilnd place ,.tbc-r a..~'~1).
overlap 2..5 ern Jl lOP or we seam,
Trace Rl\lnd m:ikins a smoolb hne
Illong top c:dgc.1'1~t" butl(lnhob lind
c-
e- I add buuonstaad. lit centre boKk.
$Idr Fr.,.u Close bust chn. CU1up
dr-t\\'n tine, opc:n 2(1]] al bottom fOf
c- I extra rlllll1~Tr.1t:cround p;lIlern.
BIIC!k-Slnligbt('o sid" st:31IL~f3rt
buttonhole$. add bIJIIOn"(~Qd..~1,kc- 3;
t'omhlned (ile-inS (or boK-k:and ""-'l:"r
pnnel.
16 DR....
\PED FRONT
Trace round bcdiee block RiQuirc:d
(both sides of front). bol:trkdr.lpC lin~
16 across fmnt bod~ Cat up side ~.:tm.
n:,('1; Trace rOllnd batk p.aUC"'l"n.
lo,",c( nC\;klillC'.In;,r" tM.illonhob. tldd
hultonsl(lnd lind extcndl.*d (xinS. rub
(lUI dart •
•,'rOil! ,'utlllon, drolpc Itnn. C'lo~
\\'ni", dlu,,,- CIC)'M:both bu,1 d.;anJ.
0lwn drape IIno uppro~ -I em...,.,....0:
(ound 1):lltern. LO\\~rnC'i:kline. Extend
I(I~C:('«'tian to kn,th r«au,lmJ {Of lit,
'l'fIlCC Ii.., pit'('C"(01' fltt'IOg and bltck ue
pattern
4S
14 Gathered bust seam
•
•, •
•
·•, ".•
I
s-,:
I '"..
..•
;':_-A-:-:fl
~
- --
•,
t:=1J-__ ~~._~f~~"~'~~~j
16
Draped
front
-
""
_ ...J __
-.~
r
•
Y'
r
....
I
·...,..tf'ICIItNdri'tf .. •
".
...
- -
textilestudycenter.com
46
17 Classic blouse
r-"'h
_r<'
(' I
I
-/-
".I /
..
.~ -
il b"" u
5~
.-
--
.. -- -...
~)'.
..
II
~
" .
.... I....
-
I
'tj U ~
,~". ft I !I
tl
~I
I
CLASSIC BI.OUSE SliAI'~S ease ,RIO O.Scm dfJl'I. Draw b;tc:k)ob-lInt: d,\'idc the
Tk dOISA illu.)lrnIC$lhc: 1)rcH."Cdutc .lltd antcr fer lhe- bnC'InlO four JoC(:llon~::C(.lIa~dU\'n CUI up ~
umpl~ ndllptlliionof n bID~IS(l sh:ll~ whh 11set it! sI«\-e ie:Jm,
l"hc b'.4Sic sh;II'C' is sviu,blc: (Qf .)1)'1.:\ thtu Mful~ nlrk CUI :I\\.ty yok,\ c,\Ic:l1dd:.rll0 )\}le lane: do\C
the ",1('Ol,On of bu" IIhtll'lfi. nnd Ihc:n:rt)tc f«jlllR' ;t dan Iirt~1t (UI hllck 'k\.'1ion. opt'" IIIMWO\lent,
(.-"1 UI'
bIocl .llh • bu\1 dnrt, Stice! lilt:elese tillin, btock Rcdrn\\' >",kc line (IIr ..c.
ror (uU bu" "hllplns. the:(,lIil)' Ilulnlt (Of:.n c;aj!cr fit .'roll' Trlllll'rCrdnrt 10undcntttn. ;ho,'C'n d~rt
~otC' If. (""$Sic: 'hirt !I>"C whhout bll\1 d.lrlln,. IS 0,.1'11'In r:.lcing line: l.'On~IIUCllln ctlc.ndcd r.. can, etcr
reqUired \(:kcllb~ boa.)i!; ~hirlhlQ('k 01' P;I.I~IJJ l IMt< J~).
S~\l' Sbln stecvc (I'tr: 2: rl1~ oS.!) or rcr 24 ~(' .$4).
17 CLASSIC ULOUSll Coli., Ccnvertlble collar (ref. S JMI('iO)
Tr.a« f01,Indbod," blocl. I"(;quired It) hipline. O,~ In
butlonhob: add buttcnatand. Place litll)' shoulckr
-17
STRAIGII r SLbEVI;
"''''
4$
27 J)ROPJ>I,OSfiOULObR WI ru PU~~
2 SHIRT SLI:..f,\11! .IlJ SLEFVE ~
3 SEMI,~rn'~O SLbP'V~ 48 28 EXT~NOEO SL£JlVb ss
4 SLEEVE WITII B,\CK SE,\M .IlJ 29 FLARED EXTENDED SLEEVE ~
S CLOSE FIlTING SLEEVE .IlJ JO EXTENDED SLeEVE Willi YOKE ~
6 SIIORT SLEEVE .IlJ JI BASIC RJ.\(iL s\N SLI!EVI:. 58
7 FITTED SIIORT SLEEVE 48 Jl F'LAREO I(J\GlAN SLEEVE 58
8 PADDED SI10UU)€RS .IlJ 33 DEEJ) R,\GLJ\N SLEEvE S8
9 SlEE\'E \VITli suoar FI....
\RE 50 34 R.<\(iLf\N \\'TTI·ISQUARE SHOULDER 58
10 \'ERY FLARED SLEE\/E 54J
II GATIl ERED INTO A CUI'!' 50 ruE SIlAI'ED KIMONO BLOCKS
12 SLEEVE WITH FLARED SECTION 50 KIMONO SI.EEVES (,()
r- 1
I qR,\IGHT SLEEVE
Trk.'Ct»w..:: ~'C' bloc".
hol~
0 ~('IIt SIIon ~'C' hoc
M'.fft~
.""iC)~
sKk
1~
r:
r-,
m......., kf,r,CC1S aad (Ibm. 6
I hftC qv.llkf lmt rs """11)
I-'
~ bc,.«n (~ and.n" ,~
2 ,
• \IIIKI Slll:.\'[
)..
5
I-" ,~ snorttn \',...I,hl \m~ bydepthof
cun 1\1",.. bote"
optninllnid"'t'" '-
b(,.ftO «nIl'(' hoc and sede '(.IIU
SIIN'\)Vo at .nSl 1_5cn' 1
I
J S~'II·IITTEO SL£E\'E
I' Tr.I('Cscnupt ~"'e ~""" slt'C_.\~
at_rna b) lea. ~ ttan'I. Cut
.__ vi
(rom 1Mc); c:IbcM liar: to pm.al I .. nd
(rom pamt I 10."risl bDC. 1')\'01 thts I
I
.._
lC'CtMlft (ora;ud "em. 10 tn. te • d~
itt t'lbo-a LIne. li.h.'C' the knsth of
dan ""'~ I CID. \tart in new centre
line (rom l tOernlKof"rilil,
n
lI_ I I
I
4
I lYW'.lU~tl fI1Ict \.Ide 'C'i&m,
'Offlhn ..I ....Jna:nD and .. fl"
(~"""t
7
~ (LO'>l ~11T"G SL~\ L
1\ 3 r
']
\
rra« wm .. 611ed ~--e. TalC' 1 lScm
011'c;K'h Jikko 1QIlL CUI up centre
"~m. O'I'C'rbpI em. Drop line froln
poll'll or d:.'l" to _TiSI. Cut line. close 8
elbow d;art_ Shorten dart. ~1 =lke \\·ti:ll
openln,. Ra~annsc:yC' I.Scm. Cu,
..... lIke'\C ()n ,he cross in ...·O\·~ fabriC'!o.
"l
I 6 StiORT SLEE\"E
Ttai,~ un.p.t dtr\~patlnn to shorl
1l«\c'" Sbapt aD t...s¢l.'ft at 1hot
\...--'- t.,,.... 0( exb Mdc ileam
M 1'1\1)1)11)SIlOULDbRS
rr~Ct bodl<t and ,kc\c bloc"",
Sl•• h (ronl .,mKyc 10 o«k of
bOOkC Opm ckplh of r.1d CUI
1I-=~,Jcoc\C bad and up eeetre
'- laM Ope-. o.a t.bc- SiUDC' :&mounI
In:l('f1ui ... ar.. scye
1 Straight sleeve 2 Shirt sleeve 3 Semi-fitted sleeve
_.
r
r
r
•
r
I
I.
I: <,' .,
I
:1 •,
, .
r....... =... _-~-..1 . .. : 2.5c.m·i'.l.......l_-:----::-:-..L.: ~"""
l .. - - --~
'<1ft
5 Close fitting sleeve
11:..
/ .........
,
\' ,to.
/
••
._
• •
-. ·••
•
•,
•,
I
. '..
- -,~
~
,•
-,
-
, • -,. •
,,,
.,. '
,,
,, ,,
,,
,,
6 Short sleeve 8 Padded shoulders
, .. ~
•
:_I' ------- ..... -
•
..•
I ,....
..
•
"~
textilestudycenter.com
so
51
9 Sleeve with slight flare 10 Very flared sleeve
• •
• •
1\
/ l"-
.....
I I
•
.. S
,
ICkno
._......
r ~':'~.:1-:- i
13 Sleeve with mock cuff ,
15 Lantern sleeve
14 Bishop sleeve
......
l\• ---
._ - -
I
l' '. J •
"'.. •
textilestudycenter.com
52
AOAf''TIN(; THE BODICEANI)
SLEEVE
Rniscd :il«"\~ h~d~ CI\'\:'a wsde-
chould.:mlIooL If not f\'quirtd take
21
I enl ofT s.houlder NrC" "" ..hewn.
,Itlt! I em 10 1.1«\(' kO'l.d
16 I'l H· SLEtVE
'T'ru« ..h~tl1Jt'('\(' J)I\ldc: mto ")1.
secuces, Cut oul. ofXn SOC1..on.lt
:U1)ouol ~wrnl AdIJ CAlrol depth It)
steeve hc",d and bem as s.ho~\n
17 20
11 GATHERED HEAD
Trace shan !dtt\"'t", 0,\ ide sleeve head
into fi\C' .s«tioos;lbo\e back balance
po,nt. 1\,.. .rk babOlX ~lntS for-
g:tlber.s 31 top 0( s«tions I and 5.
CUI up ktCton). open OUI.
18 OARTED HEAO
PI"IX'«d :lS (or plhet\"d head, Uelfl~
roul' .«llont.. t)r.nv in d!"fl.. Tnu,-e
round p3tlern shaptng dart edge$.
I') SF/\~"EDliE,,\D
'frIll."( 1:hOtl ~e. DmJ' three
\'C11h.'tlllrl1C'\
(rom J~\'C he.ld. 1)1'11\\'
n j(;uJ1 lIAC'"em d~ n \Vhtto,
IhrouJ}t I~ reeee, nil OUI. OI)('tI ('lll'lI
K'Ct.lun I ,Scm. (race rounll. CUI oul
('tHllpl,.,,. ~"C. Opc'n out O.1Senl. 10 ~
lit irl.S(l I \
Z<l L'ISET CAP SLEEVE
Truce shen ~'t- t_o.-er <;Jee\"C bead
lan. Drawin dc:9thor ap. Divide 22
into $C\.'tion$.-CUI out and open tlU
10\lo"l'rIUk is $lr:liJh L
21 STRAPrED IlEAD I
'Trace shun sI«\'t",. Ol1J\\' simp
~Irpro., Jc:m ~ •• di\",(k InlOfour
~Iion,. Tab- 2ern C-,I\(' froln a;1C'C'\'t
head CUI up 'Slr.ap11nb and «ntre
line. opc:n 0"1 .... .mO'kn. R.11~..leeve
helld "em
22 RAISED SE,,'~1
Trace ~ml·htttd """''(' ~llh U
..Ifllrrwd h(~d I-rom "Irup. drop IllIe"
II,)qWtflC:t elbow. hOG.then 10 quaner
....
wtl~t lane. Cut oul. CUIup lines. 'rtacc
ecetee S«'tlOft_ Close txI(k d.'fl, J(lin
outer sectlOBSor sJ«..'C' al underarm
und wrist, Shape III rront SC'lUO I em.
53
Adapting the 16 Puff sleeve 17 Gathered head
bodice
and
sleeve
......
.......
19 Seamedhead 20 Inset cap sleeve
c'i~
21 Strapped head 22 Raisedseam
n:Ci~
"""
,.
.tOlWt II,
•••
bf!;it •
T
,. ,
"
".
'"
. •
l' -I " .
I' ,. - ,.
• ~"..-1t:::::,L_,__.J
._ -
<GO ._
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54
23 LOWERED ARMSCVI;
for II" C';I~)fill'P, bod) ""Ad ;arm!\Cyc:
~h,apc.compkt~ lhl.'ladllptatlon (or ihe
23 lo\\'ff\\.l "rm~"C btfore "'''O"""Uln~"'l1h
IIny further IId)J)4.tuon
Ilody 8«150 .. Irace bod)' )(\."Iinn Ilr hIC'l~1"
requlrC'd: CUI ufl sKI" )(,.\11\. I)pcn 4 en,:
\1101\\ ftl"\\ sid" sum do-n eemre.1.(1\\'('t
~yc depth IJn~1.$C'm
1\1tttk I ltIud 2: em c~b loC)1: d(Plh hue OInd
.\ and" lit $&tt\~ pilch polnls.
O"'.W in n('\\ :arn'QC)'C ,m.~:a.sshu\\'n,
S,l"f:1\' Tnc:e Onc-·pKU ~CC'\'( bloc.k.
Dnt"" II pa.ralkl but bC'tow armscye depth.
the dlstance is b.:sJf1M measurement 1-2.
,\1atk- p<l,nlJ-S and 6 Q.t front lind back
pitch points.
"'" Draw the ecrve S-1 to eew armseye deprb
line. 1M curve Should cq~1the:
me;a;urcmcnl co(Ihe !;Un(' 1-2..
24
,_. Draw the curve 6-8 to cqu31 (,U"1:' 4--1.
Draw und('rat'm ~m. earrow .11 wnst if
r.:qu.ttd. ,
rcme rhC' llmounl 1M bl«l. IS wrdened I
.",...r - - 1
, I
•I I
I •
I
, I
I
\ I
'''''
I
1 ._, I
I
,.• I
I
....
"'1 "'--
~ ......
I
• I
'I • , L-_I---.J
•
It ....'
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56
lei PRorPED SHOU~DER
Truce bodi..--e ~ndJkIe'\"C black~ ~1'lfli:
balance polnl~I. !.). .a btC!od
shal.ltdcr 10 ,tmpc rcoqUII"C'd.~1ark
26 b~1I1114'tpoinlJ S .nd 6. ~1.1"(7 3 equill 27
Ilu:dl\l:an« I S."I~l.( 8 -4 ~uul Ihe:
diilllO('c 1 6, 9 b d~'n O'orn the ~I('c\'(:
..... hC'ad. ahc "moUJI.1~OUklC1 tt: (:'(IC'l\dc:d •
I)m\\ tl«\C hc-.td7. 9. II
f..1 \Vldc'J:IC'd RoW(' outer ""'"uklcl'): I tin,
\Video centre ike,,! 2:cm. Cht'('k the O.
or the slCC'\"\: bead
21 DROPPEDSHOU~DER WITH
rUI'F S~EEVE
TI"'u ee round bod.ice and ).}Jon sleeve
block. J\d;apt rW:I dropped .shoulder.
Divide sI.."'C'\~into four secdcns end open
!'¢Quite<! :amC)un,. <h"Ctbp ~t.:h $C<:1~1)
\
O.SfOm:II bottom 1b1)Ct sleeve hl:;ld for
eXira (ullness..
18 F.XTENDfD SLEEVE
Trace round bodilx ;andslrnlght SICl"\'C'
bloc" I~ ~Ul.~ kftJlb Rub 0111back
1f.hnuldtt d .. n and ~m()\'(' I em tronl
h.u:k lIhuuki.:r:a1 ~rm~(' C'dse On,,,, In
Ih."(khne Of1lw. In ,boulder \_lhP\ 2,$ClIl
29 r-
/
wide on b;t('k .and front ~t;,trl:ecntre
line 4)t'~I«\~. (\tend It 2t Ihe tOjl. 1)IIIC':
baek ..nd rront shoulckt !l.trips to lhl!!
hne, rrace round..all out
30
.:
29 FL,\RED EXTEl-oDED SLI!£VI!
DiagrdIll s!KM., bred sleeve,
\'
so EXTENDED SLEEVE WITH
I '-
YOKE
Frace round ~ Md short sleeve
r
btock. Cut up ""tn: tine of t:Set\'C. Draw
28 neck. 0,..", )'okc hDC'S(m:ll~'nllimI.2Cfll
feoru lOp or block). dmp bacl: yoke line
I em rrom dlft 10:lrmK)'c. Rlti'kl
.)h(luhl~r I.Scm III ara'l\C)'(' edgc,"
sleeves 10 bodK'CS. m3tch balance poiellll,.
sICI:\(' he-..de louche", )<>Lt hnC'. ;lnd
I em (fum ~ ihoukkr poilu'( Tr,I~'C
l'lut'c
',OI\t
---
"'"
")lln ..1 )'okCIlnd ~'( OOlnhlnM. ('u,
out. close bile" dOl" Tr.tOc' round tower
bodK'n.
()lu,.. I)~~ ~''t ')ray, \(,MICltIhn(,
plaee lIln."\b together 111\l."raie:.aJtlee, to
umke .shoulda OrL
57
26 Dropped shoulder 27 Dropped shoulder with puff
sleeve
I
- •
Widened
,,,"..
1Hc'
I
\
I
1 I
•
-.
I
"
One-piece sleeve
." _. ..... •
...
•
I .....
I
textilestudycenter.com
58
JI BASICR\(lI.A'~lHVI
Tr.t4"Crouad bodll.':C' hI«1,; ~ujmJ
lind uoc-JItC'C'! s.lu-.It t*'lt" Tile' tlU
orr front dtoMlJtt Imt Add I tm I,.
~..t ~ 1iac \IJtl fKMnt' I
..ltd l. )aa ,. t,.,. lin! ~'IoI1d(,
potolt. Pl.c'C '1a) ts..;l. .a-.""Idr, C'.. ~
lnlO d.art \10\( 'rool ~lan..~ J'01nt\
fOf"'"Jrd lna '1.u\ bllaJk."C I'C'N'U\ \
and.a Jcu I l ..... .!..a .,Ih.c:unN
hee. CUI .. ., ~
OftC'oPk« ~~t' l>r.... eentre hne
or~~ lem (o",a'" \1l1tkrt'Inl~.
tern da-'n (rom ,,"'<"
hc..d. l'll,cc
seencns to sl«\"(" m..ltt:tllng blltBncc
point'S. pl.l('( sboukkr poIlU. to sleeve
head. CI<»e INck cLan.. Trace (ountl
making :a srtghl~ sha~ shoulder
hue (0 point S. .'01'1.
T"...PicttS,""C"0". )I~.:\( l'I
ceeue line. add I em 10 c4ch centre
--
_-
htlC': tunc •• '0 point .s,
I~ fUR~D R\GL.\100Mil \ I
01\:• .-coptCO:' ",""c Into {.lUI
1«1101ti. C:.... ~ ,,,,\urN .me",n'
JJOf.EP 1lA<'1.A' \1 1 1 \ I
T~ ro.c:t bodllro.-C bind (CSlUlrcd
..tkI ()I"IIt.~ ~c ~"'\ "iM'C Wn)
~k. ~ Cbt InlO 41 ..... 1
Add .lao 10 CM..... bodJl.--c ,,!d( ~"I1'
\1,Jtk J III on"nal fronl .,.I\.it IleU'U
Ux dJft'CtMl'IU(Of cia,._"",r.,l ..n. bll!
CUT\'"C n.iJ;ao hon: bcto..' OI,n,)C)c JUI!;'
~larJt poinl$.6, 7. 9 *.
SI('C\~ Pb« ~',on~ 1~ 1«\( ~I'
..
1100\1:. nutC' •.be: 'KOl)' .he: und('rann
pieces la~'on t.IIc sm·C'. Inateh
oobncc points. Onl .. " hDC below
IIrnuq"C hoc h;al( abe d''''''n« th<
bcdiee 3f'M5iC)'" Us bcxn "'-'('tnt
b 10 =- 6>--&. ... 11 =- 7 II ....'1n _lib 34
,,",cd ~ CU'"' •.",.. ..1f'ilI.hl
ban (toID..tr..I) kl_ftG 6 10.00
'T II ","(1ft kIoa uJWtr.,.." ","AI
CUI Ul'
Tr-~ ro..J
* ~.ad (10""", "t "em
1« I"~ ~'C' """'" d'ff\;tjdft\
Cor ~ r:...... I_O-~ J«\(
••
_. I....
-, I I_
I ......
I
I
I
33 Deep raglan sleeve
32 Flared raglan
~I
/ I
l
- I ....
I
f\
\
I
I
• ,
J
,
-
.._.
,
,,
-
I
-
I
I :I , ,
I I
,
I I
..,. I
I ......
textilestudycenter.com
60
The Shaped Kimono Blocks
• 1~
"
1 2
•,
, •
11
"
...'
\
, ,
I
._
I
, I
I
o
Shoulder adaptation
,....
- - I
I
textilestudycenter.com
62
)8 001-\1 A , SLFF\ I
Tt')ce round LItnC'*O NcKL I\"QUIR'\I, ,n.rk
pellnl" 10 ~nd!~
Onrw ~C' ~rc 10 eenue 01
an .....
u~ wt'\cfllllt d~.u.ft«It"'" 39
iht,uldrr IWtdI ~ld he thr ... nk tl"
boKk aDd front K'C\JOIII,.
~csLlipcd~~fl """'_~JI_O
Ih.nl\. n,ah Qf rlUCle.rrn,",,)c. Ihrcc
'1"",,1",kDslk01 ~L um~(' \1..,k
b.'tbDtt pCKDb ~ eeeue of 'It\,:lwlnl. 1),.1\11
Llnc:s(rom blabn« poI"1, 1(' rou,!. 10 lind
23
Cut off' sm"C' .5C'ct.am.. JOin al "<"'n.-.
Cut up ,ussel I.t.oc:J )nd open 4"n"
Trace ~C'C\'C. raise sleeve head 0_5Cln.
39 SHAPEDSLEE"~
&llmpk shO'\ll'l\.lId;apkd doh,,;;" ..5tto\'C
b;.~ on debe fill'D, ... mof'l.O tt-Inclr:
ConslJ'Od dot.un Jiml' .,Ih s,h"J'('d
lIrmSC)" mawm!
1),\Kk l()fled$lr 0( ~" .nln (,lur
40 SC'CIIOllSand t'IJ.'m ~JDOUnl ,t\lU,R'd
bl~ ~ l' k.J,J IIrt-"V\ I S l."
DltC'I.-C
*1 , .... ~ clan tn .,mtlC)(
'h;arl
....~~n
4U !>QU\Rl \k\l\( \I
Tr .. « rouftIJ "UlIk'IIIIoI,) boI.,," IC\jUIIW
0,""", In sqUil~ ..naK)c to cenueof
unden,. carse. RnDO\'tih..pt'd ~IIOrl~
frlJm IIrm."')c li\. k~r~{)Im,ln ,ke\c. 1)r\IW
!lAO (rom b;a.L;antt' points 10 centre or
underarm curve,
('onlpktc $1("('\." a, for dctm.." "I('c\~
41 8r\T\\'1NG
Trace kimono bkld noqulrcd 0,..\\ line
41 from cent" 0( Uncknrm CUI"\-CIn n«k.
Cut .l&lon~ fine. OpMI rtqu.1't'd .. nUlunt
RnlnM' unlk'Drm cun~
38 Dolman 39 Shaped
sleeve sleeve
..... /
.....
.....
.~ u
23
••
40 Square
armscye
41 Batwing
"",
'"'"'
n
~
....~
.... •
•
•
It
•
42 Kimono style with yoke
,, &ld. "0",1
/
/
,,
,
~IIICII.
I lOP ffOl'lI
/
/
/
•
I~
I ...
1M'
-/ •
textilestudycenter.com
64
43 CAP SLEEVE
Trace bf~k required, talk ~houldcr
I em ~I:a,t. b;a1~rK't'points Jem
bch,w. IIrm"'C)'C. £'\Ie-nd s;houldcr 1(1
43 ",deb rtq,uircd Dr;)'" 111oUIf:r cd!;!:
(I( filP Yrllh .. ,-mnoth hne. 45
•• CAP SU,[V~ Willi GUSS~i·
'trace k.mono bJo('" rtqull't'iJ ""jib
lIho,. Jke\'C l,bollldC'r Icogtb IIPPrO);.
32cm). WllbOUIcunyal undenam,
\Viden 5ltw;:\~ lern. IJr,)-.· a line (rom
undcrolrnu (dlf'C'(ted al eemre
,houkicn). mark points I and 2. 1
em alon, IlM.. 'Iart points 3 and 4.
4.5ct11 in from sli:c\c: ubdcrdrm
seam, Cut out J«tioM.
44
Clh.'set Draw- \C'n:ictJ line. place
under:arm~s of SC'(':lions 10 Ihis
line JOIn I lu 2. COQ)Irvt1;, lri~nglc
f'ollol
"".
shape equat te (he one formed ebeve
the line CUI C)Ul.
46 FLARED CAPE
46 Truce kimono bl«k r«Iwn.-d. 47
'rrnnst'er bU$' dan 10 n«kllnc. 01.1\\'
in cape. 1\'111ri: (root slr.&pline and
cut tt\\"'a)'. Drop "''C'rtk.:tl tines frern
backned ;and ~bouldcr:from frol\!
lihoukkT ;lnd tKb.I point. CUI oul.
Cut up bees, Close bust dart. open
Olhcr li~10 m~"c tbe same lIMounl
or Ran:. -rrac:cround
47 FITTED CAPE
Dnafi ~ L.mono p;111C'tn Ircru blo<:k
n:\IUI~.tNl.c (b:;\l:' O\~rl.lp
"~lIm2.Jem Draw In p.1n~lllnc4.
"ide ....
Orllw u (".apt Ol,td(' eape deeve
head InlO i«IJonto. CUI ntr P,t"")""
('Ul ups~'C' hc.d S«1K'ln). Draw
vc,ti"algtIlJo hee, I'L"I1,"t'
«JI(~ lI'I."('\'('
line, 10 (hi) lin¢, nail(: ht'lSdStCliolts
liS .!ihO\\'n.T'*"! round
'''''
65
43 Cap sleeve 44 Cap sleeve with gusset
,
I." .." •
"MIl
~
u _. 3
, •• ,-
~
v
II
I I I '~_I
b.cII
R _1_
:
,
2_
flollt
I tIISMI
"
I "•
46 Flared cape
_. , ,
.., '
1 '
'
'
,, ,
, , ,
.1
1
,, • ......
• 1
•
- =!
,~.
47 Fitted cape .."'.
"•
- ...••••
'
r,
.... •
• '- ,
I~,
I
~
u,
,
~ ... • , •,
t
,
t
,
...... • l....__ -
-
textilestudycenter.com
66
1 1 - . •,•
I, I
fl n~
~ltfn(_If - -~~--~
10. i.
0-
Dr
I.:~n,
","""aPr t.acr 1Mdt-rIh 0( hnl\~
dlh •• 0'" mc1'-u~1 ptu,
....
0- !\,m, rl...
~I ~C"'U~ToII" lor button,
i\tl*,L bUltuntk.)b and bl.itlon !"OInt\-
2
-,.. _-_._-
I I~ 'uld
-I
o.;ublC! ~'r' ("If
......
OflJ'A cuff .llb butwD:Stud at b(uh c-nd"
\f.,L bul1~'lD~ T1t.ascuff ISdn_n (~l.Ir
tnnn thot dtS"'b 0( fbi: iIIlsJwod eufT"a,t.
1'oIJ1_ .. _
•
~---- ... .....
• -,
-+
3
..... - - .... 3
.....
uo.:---- Skc., ..."..
Trace round~'C:r edge
C'di~ ur
\,( (.1\1"1bn
"kc\c mU\1be
,m('
or sleeveLO~~'r
even. 1)1";.1""III Uno
Wb~1 throufh Gillfl
o-
j
•
i
nC'''''r.JJ'IC'f ('ut OUI and marl. htlilonholl:
''''''I';--...Jf· Q
4
4 't,,..tp, (tI, •If. t-MiII:I I •
Or.... h:\'" !'.Ie. ",.-it" 0( ~'C btl"UI" -~"':"
..nd ,."'-.: lhe ~ 0( fino.bN cull \dJ
.-f....ln' ILlio-cr cd~ tdcjtlh IlpprO\ ~"
'an, •
• '\.
5
Sh evn I I I I I ],
Ora'" n:ct;anpc- I ~ = depth of 6ni~bt-d
cult. 2 1 • .,..dlll 0( boalom 0( ,,!et\-r. •
01\* rmc ~\ ~t.. Cutout. oJ)(n 01.11 •
7 .., tor t'dJf 'tl
_,.,sIb ~1IIR'd.at lOp o(
cull" Tr...~ ro..d.. evl oat..
6
6 ,. - r I I I_I O.
..,ill"d (urt
1)'\1.....If fn:tun,r.r I 1. dcrlh ot ti'lhh~~
Quff.2:' .l1.Ith at the bollom of .I('~\'~·
I)'\<I~I~InlO f.,hl secuon ....OI'lCII IlUI "\0
""'lion, utatlAIht)' ~k I (omplelt (1n.-lc
, race lOUrW. -':11' out.
67
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
5 CONSTRUC'fING COLLARS
Flat Cellars
I'ETFR rAN (FI.Al) COLLAR
paacc ~ouldcl of but'k bodice to !houkkrQ( fronl
bodice. nccl: pcine tOUChing, outer ,houidt'n.
(t\'Crlapplng b>' ~c:m. Or:'"' in collar sh."lpt' \\'betlolr
coUaJ'~
2 ETON COLLI-\I{
CC)n)1,uet a Pel1;1'Pan t'ollat. OJ, ide oo.l"br inlo .ix
seetiens. CUI out. cut up Jines.o\'erbp IIIoUler edg.e
O.75cm. Tr a CC! round cottar wirh a smoo1h hne,
• SAILOR C'OI.'-'\R
Placc blll:k bodi(.~10 fronl bochc:t :._s rot p(ttT P;an
.... ('Ollar, Ora'" In 'V' nlS:l:line, DOl'" in cGILtr as sh(M-n..
'\'~I00' plltlcl'l1 !uul CUI out
.t ~
011 "'
,ttwt'-' .. ,-d.l(.d
~V.ll#'4
• P-
I!t
~ 01J P''''''''-fQO I..... ~
~ ' .... IloC"', rfdt,.oc:.... "'''' tuncJ
69
"
.11
,v-, ...'1 ",_.
'-
-
-
Top Collars 1 Peter ,
Pancollar 2 Eton collar
......
[_
,• •
•• ••
....
textilestudycenter.com
70
r
6 ...8
-o o
- rl • I
I•
0,1 • [
c~ I• I :3:
ci i. '1 =:J
._ ~ ,,
,
..........
""'-
G. ~., I
6 Standing 51raight collar
• ~
,
I , 8 ,.
,
I
-,0
Ii collt.
,
•
j). 2 J
"" I
...
(Olbor
~
~ .~
Lotll~
•.,. - , ,•
"-----"---r4
•
I
......
'rt-l-J
•
10 --..&._
.1-.:....::==;;="..,
.._.
~. «111"
IQ ,,"'"
•
10 Wing collar
r-~~~ __ ~---4~~1
,
-- ,
textilestudycenter.com
72
e 0
e 0 0
<> 0
0
., 16
12 14 .,
-e
11 ., -e
e
:113 .,
e
15
"'" .....
',,,"
•,
•
•..
-,• "
.... , t
;;; ...,
..!.
-,
u, ~
I,,,,,, ~,
u.
, ..
...,,
u'
, I I ,
•
1
1
~
1
•I
•
13 Changing the style 14 Shawl /collar
line
I
\
"...
, -c,
•
,
\
\ •,
,
,,
,I
, -,
,
• .....
.....•
\
;;:r ~.
-!.
~, •
I -
v,
I
u.
--,
~ , , •
-. --;
,
\
\
-.,.,
\
',• ..
,,
."" ~,
u,
.. ,.... ,,
,
...
\
-e ~
I .....
,
I I ~ ,
..., I
textilestudycenter.com
74
o
o 0,
18
17 20
......
-e
19 21
,
, , ...,
, , , ,
- .-..'
,' , I
I ,
'' '..... \
"", ,
I
, ,\
,."",
,, • •,
-, ,
,
t ....-
~ , ->'
•, ~.
" Ig
I I - , I , I
I
,--_...u....,;._lJ1 _ .....
-
I
• .'-
u,
f~
•
• • i"'t!CP";--:
.....
-' "
•
22 Collar set
away
__ , from neck
_-
,
-
,,
"
•
~
•
•,
u'
-,,
'---::::e -,'
•
I
..v ,,', ....
•
textilestudycenter.com
76
23 FRIUro COlLAR n 23 Frilled collar
t()I\~lrUl:I
., nat c:oIbr of t"Cq\lired m
•
lIhapc lrer: I page ~). D,,·td( rrnc
-c:l' )t;'('lionl. CUI
S\.... OUI. CUI up uee,
lind open tilt n«l. ~l;('( .Imolil II 1',,11
•,
23 tln..'I.: Dace round colilif mJllallS a
litnOOlh bne, rhiS m,alc:~ont)' h.alf I'
ooll3r so roU.lr R"qUJrtS. bl.clr.seam.
, ..
24 ~RILL[I) R~Y"R
Tmce round bod," bloc,". construct t'I
,"QII",rlind r('\(.f b.1~ on the mcthod
ur mak.Jft¥ ... Pi.) ~lbr tt(( 17p;'lgc '_--:~;>
74). Cut ofT rever; dnid< mte sections, •
cut up itn1:$and opm out 6an as
sho,,·n. Tr.Kc roued panern,
15 SI~IPl£ C-O\\tLCOLLAR
L()\\'c:r O«klinc- ;appn)l:~3et'n III th~
"h.ouldcr~ 1.5c:m:.11 ""I~
~ck. 3.Stm 24 Frilled rever
31 centre (rODI.
~1,!\tkne.... nedcbne ,...1(115I. 1. 3. 4.
Sclu.11'Cup and "eRn:.., from 5. S (. =-
.ltm.
6 1-= the mt'.a'umncftl I 1 tmc~5ul'('d
24 ill " (:\1(\':' minu~Itm: tqu~reup
I)r:l\\' It p;lr.alkIItM 2cm bcln\lt hue
(rom $.
7 a. the m~:t,urc:mml ) -4 (nl(,Mul'td /,'
In II t'ur,.:) mlnu, 0 ~em: M41.1.'rc up,
7 9 UIIC Ihlrd the' me:uu~mClll 6- 7.
-- ,
7 10 one: thud thC' me:41ltW\'IUe:ol 1-8.
Curve tile n«kll~ O.San on e.l('h
seencn M sh~ d. 1.....
-
\ "'
. ~
5--11 is (he- depth of c:oJt.r (a:tmp'e is
17(m~.squ.are:across.o 12.
F()td IIlong. (he: line 11-12. CUI 01.11
pauern \\ itb paper foktt"d to f('PC-.l1 the
Sh!lpt..
-.
25 Simple cowl collar
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77
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
6 THE BASIC FITTED SKIRT BLOCK
AND ADAPTATIONS
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80
1 2 Skirt Patterns - Examples
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.. ~
~J ('hfl~Ih~ (d,",:1 u'lrt Nod If the
,LI,I 1\ II IIC'pantt.c" 100nKal ux Ilk
,I \,.~
1.llIor('d _..I" blo..:" If Ik \1"t h 10 be
IItUlch~dto a bod",~Uie lhe ,..,,, of
, Ih(lI"'O'llIl~( df()" bkxk.
\"111" 1)lItl.. AU "',1lsl dms an b.,(
•
r- ...' II '1t'.J F-
I 'l ~ <.. I
their pU\llion\ tnO\td. but 1M dan an,
nlu~1be e,enl) d~lnbul«l.
,'I \ \ ~
I STRAIGHT SKIRT
Trace round to"'" bIoet,.
I I
~farl:"omti I and ! oa eeeee bird:
line" 1 J. I em. JoiD I to J. This
L-
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1'1111~ I'KJinl" JOin 4 10 hlp point
NOh.' ,\ completely JlnlltJ.h1 itltt can
be CUIwithout ''*111' or tbR'
I 1 I';-\NII SKIRT
I f~"t tM \If.,,pt "'-'It p.at~ Dr...
I ",nC" hnc"\ on (ftIonl• ..s
bkL T,.. ....N
( •
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Trace Iht: lIlt"dighi ski.rt pattern.
1\11('1.; (\I:lrL centre ~t tme.
I
"Irat .o;,i,ffl JJn,. J\deI a pbt to .hfi
line San _.de. Fokt patkra OIl pkal
'iltch hne ~ndcut COL
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fron' \lar1 pit-atbee, tnasfn d.an
10Ihl' lit)( ~".r"IC'.,.._"m.
I'k« or p.Ioprr dra Ih~ p:an:J1d
8.:m MIYI«n ~
~
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81
1 Straight skirts
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tlC)nl ,
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2 Panel skirt
r-,",n---,
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3 Straight skirt with vent pleat - box pleat
r-. ""r--,
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s
l-• I II
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textilestudycenter.com
82
, S' RAIGIIT SI"RT
4 'NV, Rill) PLE \TS
-c Irece ~tr"I'''1i"ln ptilrttm
01(,1t. ()n. ~ ~ 01 p.t.pcT d,.
'- 0 .f c II I f- 111ft'CJ'lr.alltl linn ~""' bc1.. ~ r&.ct-
t'o;I~~~~In ,,"Ufm t., ~ant1'.........
,,
,,
.... ;::; U.!C(!:.mulllI loW P"Iktn atoAi the
plc.11lint \,('I ,h .., pic ... (.:an,. Io. .. n.l\
~t\h:\(.lIn ('UI OI,JI
~ltC'rn
1"(1111'~I.lrk plcotl tme. Inuu(C'r dot"
1(1Ihl, lin(\.~p.lr~lC' pmcb. On a nC'\~
1)I~e of I"-'I:letdl'Ul. h\C ~DlkIItM~ S
em between p"," p;anch 10OUt«
I~
II.)in dl.l.r ..m. trace rouad puch.
I·otd the P;Ultm JO Wt pkat I (old>
to-a,di ~ \oQID. Bt.J pIAl !f,oI,.!j
l()Y.ilrd~eemre (rool. ClIl 001 pilllct'a.
'ote' If illl$hl bl ts tequuoJ lbc'
("(nlf'( ~nC'l~or Ilk plea.t QII bt an as
« the- pial QR be
;) IICri1r.,lc p."'t~1
1l"I~hC'J III rbe line t 2.
5 SK'R' WI ru ALL·ROU'D
I'I!'AIS WORK D'REC1lY
UNm ('Lon,
I).:.:kle 1l1~"1\10 .dth, _ott out the:
n or"'----,
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5 Skirt with all-round pleats
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Ik",h d,,, Iml'b. -.il' _
h~~. I~mt C~C' t.k
•• II\lhM I ~<mbl,tkr ". t~...de-
7 .... '4:,lrn
\"r) (;lIlbtrtet ("\II dtttal) Ie doth
0' tilbnc; depth .. Ulft
7 C'ut " plece
hln",ltI1)lu~hcn,dnd ~m .lkt • .ant~
\\'idlh 11""ro\ Ihm: t.lme!.blJl \1J'c."
I he:I'ubrlc -.111bII\"C"tc be ~mrd In
(11)11.1"the ",dIll..tPbo:: "'~lilltnt 10
.... M.'I\«lic on !o\llt.lbkr~ onl)_11old
fllbrlC"I'Ll« ceetre (roat to raid 't~ll
,, ', ;.,d" 'l('i)nb .l1 ba¥" lhe mU3ntt
,,
,. I ~ O,\rHlREDSKIRT\\1TH
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,~. I f',\t\ELS
I Triac( h.'uftd ~ block..
0r.1\\ In P4hC'1 II""=,,Tra:u(('f (ront
d.I" :Ind One bae" dtrt 10 tiw:st I.tn~
\, rub 0111 the al~r baeL d..an DI\tdc
back tlnd ftdn. ude ~nd(lq bl1lr "nh
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86
10 II.'~IC '" U'E SKIRT
h- 'M 10 Tr.K'C R'Und N"" b&od.-.
..,.", (·h.Jn~ lk!c. (n.1d..rt
,nl0 ."., I em tUrts ~ ~ J'IOI8"
"'heR "all~lllnt." d".sed IbRT 1ft'"
I ron' .hc b.lK ,,( IhI:d~"~ drw.
....- ..
----.;.~
~ 11
\~rll~111IIIK.~to bc:m C~l out PoIllc,n
II"d
dll'l,
cut uJ'll,-cr,,, .. lllrIC'J. Ckbt Uf1
,,, ,
••
"1111.";:on II IH:'o\ P'(\'e
0( p;I~" InI~
ruund new outline. ~111~('SUR"1m-ftllt('
, • opcliin¥~.11 bern ..re ~u~1 Add 2 ~fm
• • nllr(' In hem .it Side lIQID.
•• 1).",10; Red,," lhe '''-0
_-.usa cb.rts 10
•• I em dnd dlil\\ 1ft .... leal cbn
•, mKh\-aybd'AC'O From oopW <bru
,
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drop \('rtK':allll'la 10 kat... Close tbc-
'''0 Out"r I em cbrts.. 111m prott'Oi as
(or Ihc (ront peltlem The liaR:
••
------ opcnln,'\ :,' tlk lkm an be ~
-- l-qU.IIIO the rront pcuem if required
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I ,\dd 2.~C:ln 11.:I1l:10 hem al $Ide: seam
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II l'OUlt GOR~DSKIRT
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A four tI.fll'(d 'A'ilne i.~an...llh the
,r.-in !lIthe «nlf'( Or the- piMI_.1I
.;
, - tu&\(' II belle'r 'h;an,'
IJItf''' 'Iilrlo in hipLDC'!m&t1 po.nl' I
12 ..• •.
,
,
"nd 2. , 1\ m~,1) bct.ft'III I ..... !
\lilfL ,n o,,"n.al ..s.t ~
bloc ... n'-l'"potnb " ~ S_
01 ...
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,,
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•, • 10
) bet. co ...ud , Jo.. J
6 1\ nlld......
6 'rh., '"1< ~ Ilk rraal IIGot.
·,
..•
• •
frolll
.'!(lh'
1~NC'C(dII' for- biKk.
'hl~;~Irt ean be cut on the.-
",nlillht or cross,
•
• • 12 SKIR'rWITfi EXTRAFLARe
• •
• • Trace round baSiC block.
· I)rop \crllcal hnd from aD <bm and a
I POilU nu®." bct."CCU froot cb.rt &Ad
«nlr'f front CUI out b&oct HId (VI .p
\l:n.al liMit. C10w Ibn.,.-.0 p"l: I&r'f
at hemlll'W', op¢ft 'C'rta '- 00 fron'
r>'lItm to .,'COan cqal a.moa8l 0(
O.. ,t
1"01,-( r,Il.lnd ntvo OUttalk'!>oa .. tIC'Yo
"k c--e of 1l.lpcr Add 2.San fbl'C' 10
lien, "I !i1,1~\(,In,,,,
87
-
10 Basic 'A'iine skirt
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12 Skirt with extra flare
clw:dJlb
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88
-o 13 C;OItED 'A' LINE SKIRT
- o
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trace round 'A'lint' skirt pJttc:1lt •
t)II('1.;Ora" In hirh~ 3nd ori,in:aJ
\itle ~;1In (I.'I"t I'Olnl\ 1.1.,).4, on
hip lind hen,hne, I S If one ItUrd I J,
13 I (\ h. one third J '" Ot'irA ,ft p.tnc:1
line. IJ.ln,rtt the b:lcl. dOltlceto lb.,
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15 'A' line skirt - gathered inset
textilestudycenter.com
90
16 OORgO SKIRT
16 17 (If ullilli Ih(:tllilorN siln b1oc:l:
ilJ ,J ./
- <,
tfiln$l'er complete 1.de SC'3mto eeeue
llf bh",,·k.• Rub QUI """'tSld;lln~ OJ'ide:
f'OOl und b,ltk ~kir' into oJ'. <'Qual
, )oI.,(II,ln"(In hiplin\' Squurt up
":
,
lUl(l ,101,\+0.
Nc" 1)llrlll,,, 0,1'1.) 10 lou..:b II dcued
\ , line 14('111i.l«>"n (rom \Io;ai~lhM~Add
/'
- .,
r-,
I em to \\'I1J~thn(" III (ronland ~(k
slde seem, t\llllox'_0 2.5nn darb on
back I}!lnc:l1uu:slind l\iliO I.St'm d:llrts
(UI frunt rml'lcl linn.. Add Jan 6.m:
I ~'
to hem of nil panel ~-"
-0
17 OORED SKIRT WITH lOW
" I'LilRE
"
"
" »i Trace round basic skin btod.
Draw in sh"ped )0"< and drop \~ttic.a1
11111:$
(rom the 6h.;lpcd point", ~1;aTk
balance points hlll( ....~) dO'rt-nthe 1t:ngtb
of the skit., E~t~(ld 'IIoaii(d:)n$10
>'C\kcline,
~k y.,fr(M CUI )'O~I."from JXlttttn, clo)("
~ dll"" lind trace round ~ dUlllt'c on
'-t " new piece or P.I~'.
(70''''' CUI out uln :and CUI up
\cl'IIcill hue;. 'rrucC' round the- (our
t:0rc~ I\dd 1(I" nia~la! bern, JOt" IQ
IIWIIbulnnee poinl\'
Nl)ll' Sklrl eau be Cu' 01'1lhe C~
Ig FLARED SKIRT
UNPRESSED I'LEflTS
.., rrut'c ruund b;uic bkld •
'laC''' Drew '" pk::u tree, mo\~ inner
\" I
... "
paper draw vertical lines 1-2 1-3 and
3-4 = $cln: 2~Sand 5- 6 =-7em. Join lines
3-5 "n~4 6,
Plnce Ihe pieces or b:tck C'.lcl! side' or
line,; 4 e aod 1f\1(C round.. I\dd Scm
\ [lure to hl:'l'nhnc III c."Cl'llrc tw:...and
\ 7,$(.'ID 10 hemline: ut sick seam "'old
paueru un 1'111:':'1 hnc)" one pkal ro&dcd
IOw\lrrli eceue b.ac:l. the othtr IC)'lIo .;JNi
"ttJc~;un CUI out p.altcrn
11'r011iOnl\\ ,n pk-JIIIn<~1",1'1.)("
f'\')111d.I(1 10 ,hi" hne, pfOCftd ,)), (PI
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\ Ihe: bl•.:...
Nore Sklrl can be- CUIon tbe- cro-'1.
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91
16 Gored skirt
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17 Gored skirt with low flare
r-I,,~n
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'ront , : 'tOI'III
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18 Flared skirt - unpressed pleats
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92
19 ~KIRI II ITH HIP POCKET
19 lr;1"'C round Not it," bIoc:l
O~ In front .tnd bkt pmd ~
T.II",(r, (ront ~n ADdOW b..... d..an
onln IhC1C!11M". Dt~ 1ft po:Lc1 _
\1lo1r" ""fltb of (Mllt;k,rl .".
p.1"td 11111:'
up C.,
1,111('"," IIIICI Io,fllil Ieaee f'OUlW b...
~1f1~1(u'nl ",~'iun, Il~ 51."m ft.. re 10
HUh!" (die: (If plt"I:' :al the- bem
1....~I+rSldf 1'lIlwl r",CC' round ...d~
20 1).1",,1:L'UI.,w,1) alan, pocLtt bn,r \dd
~("nl n"'1: hi Sidt 't('.;un at ..
lop SWt 1'.1td Trao:' rcn.d Skk
pond '0
depth of poWt bof _ \dd
0.",
Iv"tl .ac'-J Tr.1IID:roUMIlOP silk
paMI. (VI ""-:1) a:Ioa.! podd lDk,
~o rOil L SKIRT
rflll,'CNund baSIC stltt bIod.
~1nlk p<lInlI mid",..~'bec"~ (toni
ddr, 1111\1 cc,n"" (ltH'!1 Dcack the dt'rtlh
IIf the cnwllirn.":trr.drn" 1M 00.1 hn('"
IIIIIll Ihe ba~ u( the: ihr" IU1dPOUlt I
C'UI\11'1 ,,!{Ie '("In~ "n\J.. 10ft"
row. I
II"!:\,,
On A new ,,~~ o{ p.r'C1 d,~
21 h"'I/~u.llj~ P1.Iocc w..k SQab (II
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rr-...
- .....
n... 22 ~KIRT \\ IT" GOOETS
22 ...
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Tr.l\'C fO.nd btiIc Sltn bboL
1),.-•• m (Qlk't I....... lrD.ikt (toftl An
-::...--" to 'r,~nl I"'IrwIIIW. ~rl J'O'kt 1"-'lAI'"
('"I "UI bkM;L .ftd At vr JMId JJah,
It.(to.I'll''''''' rr.a«
ro.nd _L .n.J
,)de I).:I(l fh'ncl"
IorOl1i Itl' c~ rouod (toftl p.MI
SldIJ ""nllll O',kfe .... ~ntllnhl fi\~'
23 'Icctlul\\ h. hipline. C~,
lI'on,lhc\('
IInt'li.tl~n each)0;00. ~rrru.\ 2cm.tt
Inner t'\l¥~
I rll~Ymurk! (lallcm
Codfl Drli'\. \U1JC:OaJ _: .. Ii;
pc'Il"'" I 2, lhe JDdd JcoartIL Orrcack
_tdlh 0( ,odd. dn. tbe .. -...1" C'\C'ut)
1.• cx-h ')Mk 0( I... muk pcw.u 3 ad ~
I SqU;IR' up frua tt.cx paiats. \iart
I
polnl) ,. ..nd 6 <NIl tbcsc lines. I S.aDd
J
I~_E I 6 al"( the I(M,lh 0( tbe pdct. JO.n
poilU:) ~. 1. 6•• 'lm
2) ASYMMFTRIC,\L SKIRT
.1 cerve,
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24
J
\ l(WoerrJndt.; cut np
rt«t or pa(J(1 ~
.a,..", .althe l\}orMd 7a..t
!ieC'tJOetr,. 011 •
1«11001 ~rI'""
Ik bc'I4lom
ftC'
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c.: IJr\('I,.
~t)lC"
fQlltfll
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- - .... t,OI'I\
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textilestudycenter.com
96
as
Straight
waistbands I.•
• A f : :I
WAISTBANDS
Slrlllglli \\'uh.lb:tl:ld"
\\'lIi~tbllllCJS
Tl\ac
are SlII1\fllC'IOry I( IhC') are
'-'---c?'l:.--~~-ji-.,C~''-_...J· ~I 011 'hI." v,01i"{lhn.c
~ftdIIR'nudein
•, ......_ \\'hhhll frt)lU l.S-Seen
Draw \\'lIi>I"-lnd ('"an Icn,lh and
double the wuhh ~Ijlft C'C'nU't b:i('k.
cenue (rone find stde ~,jm~ In.;&r\ (old
hne, ~\dd lin undC''"''r;tp or .('", ).1;1tl
e. _ .... OF
un)' buuonholes RqUlml,
Tbe "ai~lhn(' landv.alJltN.odof .a "l.;:lrt
can be dr"O\,."(!10 includt.J 'Ubs,13nli:11
;uuaUIiI (lr ell.$((c.", IUon) to cnable-
the "'l1islband 10 be C'lalllC;ltai.
ShI,lJ~.'d'\'uislb:lods 'Vo.tislbat'lds.sct
below the wo:lislUnc or "....utbands tb.;lt
reach high abeve tbe ",'3is,t RqUJ..r-(:
$1ulpillS 10 fil the bod).
Ikll)n' "'III", RC'm'O""C'1M \\-;Jlj.lb;and
depth fram tOP or skin panere.
r-.le.J)u(' Ihe n(\\ ~ "~islli:ac. \lake
tI 1tfl'Iiahi v."j,tb;lnd the norm ..t .... 1... 1
measuremenr: and singk .idlb Cui
Hipster
....\ buuonhetes,
NOlc AU.sbapcd \\lIi'Stbizncb:1m'C 10
hi: cut !lingJy:tnd faced,
waistbands
•
co
·--;----11 l-iipSI~'"\,'Dislbands ~llIrt to-""««l
\\'lIis,line on :tkart P'1IICf'QS-6an bclO\\'
v.'uistlille and tlU I'I~ .--a:m
nlctl~ut(ln.;nl rot n;JlSlbtand,
Onl)' \l:ty nllrnl'A ~lfilJfhl ";tI)Ib;ind"
""" Faced CIII, he used (ma:4:InIUm~.Sc:mJ.+cr
d~'(I')(!r
~"Inds u\C the ).~pcd "~i'tbllnd
waistbands
rr--m--,,-, dcM;,lth:d abm.c.
""'- "0'11
•.- "'11('~'"\Vlll ..tb;li...." Tf1II« round ,tlrl
"
" pnllfolrn10 hiphne. ~'tarL In the to"''C'f
cdS!)or facin"
ellt out ("(IDIS: (to)(' darts.ad pl.K.'C
stdc Sl,'lImj logclhc.r. Trace rouDd
rallern (facing C'.snbe cut 1ft 1""'0
SCpllrllte pil."CC5)
97
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
7 FITTED TROUSER BLOCKS
AND ADAPTATIONS
~-
,,'w,h 22cm 01':1\\'in side $I::lIU ibrcugh polnl$ 22. 25. 21. 26:
ewve hipline out\\'"rd, O,)t:m,l.:ut\'\"2$-21 in"'3rd5
Q,Scm.
l-l-lfJ
I em,
SqIUrt' both \1,.\)'11frc,m 0,
1!-19 I em.
0... bod)' ri$('! S<1"1It'l: tlc:t()$~
Om" Inside: leg )11;';1111 24,29. 28;c:u,,~.::~N ,n.--;t_rd,.
0-1 ""1St 10 hip; square acress,
l,lScm.
B-.3 .. ~i~'
10 Ileor luclt~lIrcmC"I:square ~'t'O$J,.
Oi\ide thr lint 21 22 lme 'hr« P:I", ~fart POlO!$"JO
1-& h"tf ltte mea~lIrcnltl'll I ) mlnu\ 5,,-"f'I',square
..".,.,
ilnd 31 U\inN Ihl" Hne 21 12. "'IUlln.'l dO-n {run, .~lI
And .JJ,
1-5 eee twettth hip nlC~I"UI'Cnl('nl "hl~ I Scm: JqUOlrc
('on)lrU(I dlln!t(0_' these hn~ :!tm • Ide; knSlh rronl
upto6and7
point 3Ul1C:ln,lcnaith froll' 1)01111
31 lOan
c-...a qUoIncf hip n1c.I>\I1'('nl('n'l1hl\ O,$en, (Uf\'C hemline dOVo'u 1(11' :11point J.
S-9 OOC' ~1"H.·'Ccuh till' Illetl!llU'em('nl phl~ O.5m
1-10 lan:Join 10 6.Joln ts <} \"Ith IIcune loudln\. :'\011' I':of extra ~':'lIC III the crulch 11ft('iC"C: ,he.
.. poln,:
.uJaruatl~ln tin ('I.lge IO~. r.:r. 4.
klCj. 8 ,4 3t..I1' from S
mo t6 20 l.:!5cm frornS
Tr~ orr back .Ind front sections. II ISusuOlJfor the
,wl"S 11-2-1 J.Senl from S ~'ei: hloc-I: 10 face h) the leO Ol,d Ihe: rith' Moe). IQ
10-11 quarter ....-aist plus 2.2Scm.
Comtrvct ;II d.ilr1 on the line: from 0; length lOan.
f.c:c Ihr right, f)<1J'licul:1tl)ir the: desipt requiteS
10
complicatrd ndaprarlons,
..."idrh 2an .
.3-t! half IfOu~t OOlt0111 \\tjdlb 111inU$O.Stm_
TAI~OREI) SHORTS
..1-13 lhe: rnc.;;uuttmcnl 3-11 plu:s 1.3,,'1" «i"lQ 16---20
Shorts can be constructed from lin)' 0( tbe lJUUSt"f"
I-Scm; 11-14 1.7cm).
blocks (Icpcndlns on Ihe s,),Ie.
~. in ~c...eum Ihmllsh p(linlt~ l I, 8-. 13. 12: (\Inc
Tt'3OC'mllnd tl't,uscr blC'llCkrequited,
hiplnK' OUI\\1IrdS O,Selll, Draw a hllr pllfrtlll'110 me bod) rrse hne lit depth
.l-l.a tulf trouser bottom width minus 0.501\_
requU'fd •
.. IS Ihe fftC""'~bre1nt:nl'; I).
Cesve the: hJcl: hefUlh'Q d~\'11"".lrds I t"M.
Ot"0l\lInsult leg )C;ln19. IS. t,!: curve ~ t511\\\itN.
Conlinu!: ud:lpinlitlll,
07Snn
ALTI;.KN"1IVI; LEO SIIAPING
I~.,"" The (..~hlnl'i outhne ttl' CMIJ~('rI('~'$coo'<ol..nll) .11it'n.;
s-t6 qu.;tru:r the n'c;lsurcnlenl t 5~,"",uaf(' up '017 ,be dl.ilgfilm IIho\\,$lIhorl'I.UI\>c!('. ib.lplna. If d..~~
on the tupllne. 18 {)I' Ihe \\'I)I"llin~, ~hOlplna ito t\.'tjUIII,)iI. equal .nnOunb 111Caddal c.r
16-19 half the n'~~lSUf'C_nlenl
16 18. ~ublru('tc:d to t:.II,:hlidc: of t,lch I('tt -" mCNIll In the
18-20 2,."m, dlo1,11.rn_11
99
The classic tailored trouser block Tailoredshorts
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textilestudycenter.com
100
cUI.o-n'ES
Draw rtlll1,d <itrlaight ..l.in palt~·rtI..
mark the hipline. ~11l,l hc-mhnt' depth.
1 oil':
(."111
1\!lck ~IIlfk 0.11CC'nl~wL .. ;tl"1
o I body It'\( plu~ I ~....m_
o 2 tlnl~hcd I(n,lh.
I' I",I( 0 I plu$I an
I oS one ciah1h hip tnC'"o1."urcm(ntpi u ,
Z~'(ll;$(IU,ttc do" n 10 hoCmlmc.
Joln j It)" "!th II. (:un"l:'d bM touching
a pohuJem (rOI11I.
1:"JlII .'tlarkj IIIa:nl~ (ronl"alsL
S-6 hody rise:'plus I.Sma.
s- 7 finlshed Icn£lb; sqeare eeress,
8 is Itlid\\';,) between S 1l1'ld 6
6-9 one C-lghlb hip mcasumncal jess
Jcm: square down 10 bnnlmc.
Join S 10 9 \\ilh ~ C'Uf\'ed lin< louching
,,~ II 1)01111acrn rruln 6,
2
I \\,
\
I 1 PI.EAT_I) Cl1LO'ITF.s
Traee Mun,1 cufuue r-allcm
Separate Inside leg seeuees (ronl lht'
..,11'1 Ik:I.llil)n
On ~Int\\' piece of ~rcftnt« round
,kin 1I«lion, Add un aem ''fn' pit;'!'
floud I(lc,") 10centee (ront ..nd centre
back,
"Iat( il1,jiJe I¢I '«lion, to <Ore ",r
pica!! truce roul1d
.told plcat~ to\loJrw the Mdc se..ms and
eut (lUI p:ntl!r""
3 ) J'l,\REO CULO'tll:S
Truce round cufoue p:ut(m.
Buck Drop \'crtkal bnes rrom Ibe
base or da.rtS 10 hem, Cut ou1 ~tt('m
and eur up the bees, Close d:l11$ 10
mnke nal'C at the "('nl1ine. Tr.K'lr round
pauem on .1 lie:"' pscce or paper CUI
out.
f'rl)ni I)rop \'('rtIQlllinn ftOm thl>"
rrolll diU t .. nd .1point "''''''-;I)
bct.-em
dart lind ,h~ centee rron, Clost d:.Tt 10
make nIt'!: '" Ihl: hemlu'f. opt.. ,1'1('
other Vc:tliCIII hne: 10 Ift.a~c lhe ,."mc
:1I1l0unt or n.II'C:. rrace round p:iIlCn,
(Ill II new PII."CCor p"per ell' OUI
101
1 Culottes
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textilestudycenter.com
102
4 rROt ~FRS WITH PLEATED
4 ~{rt?
J \
WAI~TlI"f
rn'u~"
.nd .h",pnlln
Ih•• lit'( (.1 M tk ..-ant_
.I'Ib.r bc-a-
rrsce round b".,... If04I'C'f' bled.
II.," ('Ul~Ion. 1Mhlrtuw·.and (trrn
II \Iotdp ..I'tl'lrux'an ... at ~
(I utch IIn~
~1111 ~ 1'101111" I ilnd 1on hnnhn~
'.'(In In (R)m klll«OIm.
Dmw Iinc1 from I lind l to lncc IIrIo(.
"rollt rrsce round ft\)l1t trou:SCf
I bltk:k. (_'UIII~ross Lncc be. dJ'* lOp
~I~n ilion,the ,r.ambac:. Ope. 'an
I .t (ide lCoI m
""'2'tSIJiDto b) J.5cm
III."I~bM. ~'{Icnd
\\ alb dut aBoaUI(C Ihu
on.
I p''O IO.San (gjlncss.
three ),San pIoli.
~t:atl. polnl~land" Oft beaI_
this IIItO
t' .
,14Ic:~rplc.I''-
) "Ihlbllnd (·on'I"'I.;&J1I~Dd
i, f- tnjulrN (~96,
$ !lARIO ,'OGATl.I:.RLD
IROl .. IR ..
I race round ~~w: It'O\IStt bIod
Square do¥. n 10 IKm (rom (JO'Qu 1. 2.
5 3. " on knee hues,
Dmw )'010.0hne:,.on back and (tofll
Irou~r~Cut ~~-ay )'Okcs. C~ darts,
Dr" ....·round new shapes,
Divide b;at~lind front rrousns mto
four \('(lion) lit .."CC' fiee, SqQ.;&K up
lind dO'An En_j(" cbr1.iag..
C·ut up \('11(";11~ 09C'D S«UOD5 so
th.u the orwnlR, at Ik beta tI doubk
....., or 1M ....."1 fC'umpk ~"i 'em
at ""I)', IlC1ft II hnn.
'he \\'11...,,1tme 101_ b:l nvl",h
lin" I. ollCned onl) ii'
,be bmI
Add scm flllr'C 10 htm or llll~ ka
"1.'11111\
IIlId \Id( )(';Imi.
"rlt"' round new,h,lpc1
103
4 Trousers with pleated waistline 5 Flared and gathered trousers
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textilestudycenter.com
104
The Very Close Filling Trouserrdeans Block
\I"',Sl HEM HNTS Rt:QUIllf,ll TO 1I11,\~'1'"IIE 21_12 quarter waet plu'l"cm (-i,Scm) join 21 2210
l,L()C~ (cWMplc \j".: 12) touch Ihe: IIn(, ~qlJlIl\!tJ OUIIrcm 0.
TI'OUitN or )C.ll'lj made Item close jilln'liJ btcJot"~are ...l.l Ih( nlC'IIKul'CnlC:1I1 5 9 rnlnlli O.Scm
orten m"d( IrOI1' r"brl('II \\'1111~lIl!:hl~trch:h 10 rl'O\id( ,u...14 O.$\'m. Join J 1 19 lind IIJ ~.t"11h a C'Uf'\'C
01 'c:om/on fil', touchlllll ~I 1)()I.,t:
The ('to)(' fil1lng Irou!>crJJclln.s bltlCk I!I dnan~.so sI;CC'!I 1I.Sc.ln Irurn 1lY.
,,(:I
thai the: lOp of the ","j,lb:UI" ~h" on Ih( \\.I;~ll1ne ~'CII 16;!4 ".7$CIU fronl 16.
bn$ ean be drafted to ,it l em bctow II (see 17-15 (IUillttrhip .nl::l)un:I'I,.:ftt plus I.Scm.
mstrudioM 10 bnK'kt'I.s). The \\'I!tig~ ln tbe- bact 12-2.6 lcm.
(flItcb tint: (see the ~In$ ;ulapulliou, pointS 17 J.l) 13--17 len,.
shou1d ;also be: "f;C'd Ior elcse filling. ItOu:K'N. 01':1""srde ~:1I1122. 2S.l1, 26: curve l~-z.sOUI
Refer to fhe size chart (page It) Icr standard O.Scm. continue the- side seem ('U_J1,~ to !7 as mo..'n.
measureeserns, 14-18 Jcm.
15-29 lcm.
Yo... lSt 101.~1 bOd)' rise 28cm Draw inside leg scam 24. 29. 28. curve 2+-.29 In I em
hips 94col wai$1 10 Ilccr 164"" 21-.10 hJIlr the mcasuremem 1l-21;.squattdm\1l
""3i~t10 hip 20.6cn1 jcrtnll holtom fmm line ll-~,C(ln~ltUct It d3rl ~)n Ihis ftne. ... dlll
.-;lt$lb;and depth 4 em width 19"" 1,1Scm Clem), length scm.
.--
Set"Olr\" both "'~}" Irom O.
6 IIASI(' JEANS AO,II""ATIOr-
.ronl Ttlll.'e oW frolu IICCII"n. n'iI'" p(Unl 6.
0..1 Ii$(' mrnus -tem (6\:n')~ ~u:lrr lIeNS"-
bod)' Omv. In ('un-cd 1)()I.·k.,:,Hne ) I )2 lind l'JOC~t b.l"
1),.1 "~'Sl 10 hlp nlinl,l,) .Icnl (6cnl): !i~llu"f('a(1'(K\. Cut oil" sid", 11ic<C (lions thc tine 31 Jl; add !.5cm
O...J ",;aI" to n')of nlC:I\U~1l1t'IU: "'IU.l~aero",. (ron, 31 Jl
..... hair 'hI: nl('asurc:'I1t'IU I 3 lI'unu~ Scm: SQu~rc Or.r.v. 111 fl)' "1C'C1i!II1UII)( to IlOlnl J,.
1ern bclooa e, 11)'
pie« \\,dlh .1.S olen" '1'rlu,:con' 11)'PI(\.Y..Irace off
.'''''~
1-5 coe I\\'t'lfih hrp rneasurcmeuu square up 106 pocket b:,g :1101)8the: line 31 32.
.1Id ,
6-8 quaner hip m~I~\U'tnh:nllninU$ 1.'<:In. ll.cl.:Trace ofT buck $I:<:tions:M.lrk point}, 17. 21.
~9 00(' SlXIct'Dlhhip rncesurcmem minus 1 em. !!.24. 25. CUI :dong hipline- 17-25. epee a ..~gc
7_10 lcm ....ppro,. J.S~n\ wide OIl 17.
JoIn to 6 :llnd 6 ~ "4th I' curve IOl,lching 3 POltlt: .7~ 1cm: draw In new crulch line- from 21 24.
sizes S-I~ 3.2Scm(rom S; Draw in pocket design.
sUts ,6-24 }.S('lnIrom S. 21-.\5 quarter the Inc:)$Uf"¢lnC-nlll-).:.
to-II qUIlf1cr \v:li'l phl~ l.Sem (2,:m,. 12..J.6 qusner It\C InC3SUrtnl(n, :2>1$.
3-11 hair jeans bottom width minus t cm. CUI ofT yoke IIlong, the: line 35-36: dose- <brt. Cun'('
4-1) 1M me;._s;urcmcnt 3--12 plu$ 2an tM tlnc... 11-22 !'Iud 35 36.
~.30idtsc~tm I l, 8.13, Il:cur\'(' tl-'Jour
f>.lScm.
)-1..h-'llrjeJnsOOlioln wklth ,ninu'i I enl
4-15 Ihe mr.l'urcnu:nl lem.
)--14 1'11,1$ \\'lit!s,bnnd The str:ughl \\'I,i)lb:.nd is; (UI
On" In\tde I"g seam 9. IS, 14. CU'\'C in 9 I~ O.1Scm 8,,"", (lll:tn) 1.lr¥uf 11,lU' the w;tj~1me.l~r'C'm('nl 10 fil
1M k>v.'(r "'ni~1,)()liltionll.
B""k SqUIIR:: buill "oIlY" front 37
S--16 qU:J.fl('rmei&,IIn-nlc:nlI S: .)41t1II,eup 10 110ft 37-38 t\\'i,,~\\'lli~Ib;lIld dtllth, i(ju;t.n:;aC'n»\.
lbe: htpltne. 18 on ~ \\'llj.)tUnc. 38 ....'9 "l'Iis.1 ttle:lllll"'(lnC;"1 plU! 11) .....ldth; )o(tWlf'Cup.
16-1' hllr Ib(' mea!>Urelncllt 16 18 plus 11,'TnIlan,. .39-40 p)' ",I~lth: 11'1"111':up.
18-20 2m't.
20-11 11,"IS'I,
Jt4-". h:llr lh~
~t:&r1: fold line
Illc.l.);u!'enu:IlI)8 ~.); SlIwait' up.
cJtl\\'n Ihe cenlt\'
105
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106
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107
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
8 COMPLEX ADAPTATIONS OF THE
BODICE BLOC.KS:DRESSES-
JACKETS-COA'fS
1 h~:)~I.:Id.,pl;tllOm1,I~ all m~on (ann cUlling with the bu\t cbtl .'0'\''(:\'(1-, the
mnount or darnnr tbal 1bC'dl"!ii~ncruses should depend (In the rabflC .sC'kdC'd
F.lbrlC) \\'ilh )Ifl:lch '(:~raC1crh.ltes \\ ill c~plltl(l t\. cover Ibe rorm so m.Jn)' )In:lch
prmtlll~ br\':fbi cut. Ho-'C\'\"f,II c.,n be: vct)' f\:\\'(u'd!nllIO USCthem "'Ih tall kin.d~
of form cutuug. Thts illJm\.-:s the designer 10 cut closer to the form ~'('Istill (,fC'~tIC
seinestructure1ft 1M ~~n.
\\'hibt ~IP)' casu:.1 Prm¢l'!\$ are 'n:11 CUI', IhCY1,',llnalso be ('UI to the bod)' $b.,pc
csee _124)
1'1", bouk hJl~been """'ten rOt btglllnCI'1t. Ahhough a t.UIOtN pek.e' btock t!
lnetuded, 1~(lh(r ""th a ("' tailorrd style Ih.: book Puttcm l'uJ11lft I'"~'rOiMrM
or
J(}(J.'"/,,. C'/(I'u/C unciC""'~'npoton \.'()\c" the ~ubj(c, lai10redg.atmcnlSin mu<h
gl't;JICr depth.
textilestudycenter.com
108
lingerie and Form Filling Dresses
For (10$('lilting IInacrie. dtl,."OII~I('dlSht lind (\Chln;
"'~:'r. wedeu "IC tllit. 01' the ~I'h< lilian, df'l"b block
.aniJ reduce some (If Iht' ~l*~
ll'-ilot rOlln" thecloS( linin, iJrcq bloc'"
R~\Ic."C("II:h sill!: \C.UlI I.SeRI lat bu"t. 0 Scm .It the
'4;ah.l to 0.25cnl :11 the hips.
O{)ubk Ih" "Idih or
the"bU)1 dll~
SC)'n~ IIna;crie and "10\' 'hnJCtlC ')'pt"' dfd.<et
made In rllhrl(s wuh Slfl!lCh. Ih;tllllrt CUI on Ihc:'
CTO!o!lor are body·skunmllil Clth(.t lbaa bod)·fillinc
2 do nOI aJ\\';ty~lIlt'Cdthe ,vider dart !lnd SoOmC' truI),
('\('n use II rcdtli:<d dan
I 'ORA'TOP
TI"iI~ round Jingt'rtc block to requeed kn~h. Drew
In s.hnpcd lOP of' front and ba tt br.l. Om~
horizontal Line through bus' point. Tr.tCC'od' bra
sections. CUI OUt.
8fll Setlluns Close ba..:k d:lr\. trace round..
widen bust dnrl by I.Scln. CUI aero» \'C"rt.ic:allinC'.
Clnse top r,nc.!bouom d;trl'i. Trace mund uppt':t and
10000<r
~cll)n~.
Silirl Rub oul ,\.II~t dorl\, toke ..mount cqUI\--;aknl
or dl!rI Id'i;lpln~ nut '" the gam, h.)l( "l side sc-amJ
arid h-lil( lit eentre (ront and c.:"II'C'back "C'ottn'- Add
S"nl nllfC' 10 ht'11lof front and b;t,l. )C;lm", It".",
nllfC 10 lIide S(,llnt\,
:2 V~R-IICAI. SI;'I\~IS
TralX' round hugcrie bhxk 10 rtqUlrtd tc"llh Om'"
III shnpe of pcuic:oal lOP. \\tidcu bloUlWI b) I em.
IJrop vertical line.~from the base ot \\.•~ datll. Cui
out panels. trace rnund, Shftpe.$Omso( panel",
f'\dd 2cm ital'C 10 luau of panel SQms. 3an OaR' to
1
hem o( side seam.
J STRAJ'li!SS HODICE
t.4)\\'cr \,.Ir~lin(t ern lit centre fronl Oft bnter~
block: join to cclUre backline
Complcte Iidapt:ttioll or
the prin«,~ IinC'petlK'Oat
to ""II~llint: or dcplll kquircd TrllC't ofT f'I1ncllo.
Sh:lfl( III b:t\:l. p:ulI:1IU(cnlf': ~oIC"" ..~.hn( I em.
Rcdu(:t \'loth ~id~ S~llIn~by I em '" lOp «f,e onl)·.
redraw lOp edge shal)j_ng.
Sh.11X'"ui\IOI' 1'«1111panel ~.tm on (ront otnd "ide
rroul I em.
~1l1rk points I, 2. .) on fronl panel,
1--4 -= one third measurement I 1::1 S -= on...fifth
measuremcut 2-J, l')r:,v.' In nC\\. th:;tp!ng!ll lOp td;e
109
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The ,11,11 h.IR, bc"('t If .O\eft Cabo..; 1\
(ul on 1M cr,,,,,,
~ (',\'II\()I r TOr
TBll,:c",und IInr('fte W.,,;L I>f't"J' '«tol
hnt'~lrom 1't.1"C or _;iI\1 d.;an\, Om •
""ml"(}lt'tIIP \h.lr'IC the- hi," ."IJI"oc
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,haJu (ur\(. C'ut II"'''), lOp I«'t.om. Sh.pt
"de "~II"Ii,Shll,.e In rl'()nt i3nd b..~"
2ean.
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t'lollC' balk doIlt. IntCIc:round
secuen, wnten bU~1 ..La,.
I.Scm C'IcN' bu"
dllrl. traee ",uml pa,taIL
Sklr' Rt,h"VC''Io-;tI:U cb:rts fro. lup
_ill,lIlne 10 b.-~or cbn~Cul out stln
CUI up \<rt)Qltuao. Cloec cbns *- mJtt1
7em Rate;a, hrm. Gr.ua '-: nu:tS 00..
«aIR of oprnin.... \dd 'em 10bem 01
.. '(An, Ami 4cm fLaK 10 c.:c:all'C'front
;andC(11IR' l\;tcl searre,
s 'V' Nl~('K
l"mc:e 'Ilund ~,-,,"plcle ,."""rico bI(I('l .)NV.
In .'tllpi"il \\'Ui\llinc frcm bati: "~I'" p"'lnl
"j'/J \t·",/ItIl,
Itack !>r...w UI 'V' nc\;lllM ')'nn'l<)(,
,h ..pe ~III"~ , tom 401 .." ,. n«tllK ('loIlout
",,"lion. t Ii)\(' nC't" ct..,1 ;aIId • .anc dMI
1 r~c ",urW .IIh \IQOO4h...W'at ~
"fOlit 1)'11""11\~"haf tdla:-L dd&ark.~
from "t'(L. r-:~lnlcqu..ab ~t.,. bad. (.\
(Io"'t )('C;ltnn.tIO\ot \tv,.. an. treee road
VtUh\,notllh tur\t'd 1,nt"L
~liltL\ Rub oul""l~'<bru. ~ 10~
and (rutU !i('lmli II~ \h01'D. the same'
alnounlItuuI, r(lno\oo b)' closanC1b('
\IntiS In the upper l>«110lU.CUI out !J.,fl,
"r.I(C found Add 1ern t1are 10 bc:Ol of
centre rrorlllind c.'('nllt b3d sarru.. 10em
R:.1't 10 hem o( )idc InI1l.
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4 Camisole top
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112
Dresses and 'Dressmaker'
Jackets
1
~1\lny ~tyleJ(ure b.l\tCd(In lhe- )hln dro~
;unllhc: iii \h:pent.l>on "httb<t a c~
Ullin» o. CI':;Y flllins bl«k t) chC))('ft(or
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3 'trace round
drn) bl«L T;JL"(
OM-'p!C'C'C dchc-
1cm 011' bKt.
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\.hnukkr tlkl\ *tudd dan """'aD«J
and Iem urr (ront .tkxJlder Tran,r«
bu~,dar, 10 centre ~houkkr. clr.. an
('\)111 end bol(L nn:k;III)C, t.o..C'f bitc'L
~\.II'll1olnl 31."111, ..b;apc 1ft • .scm
Reduce b.leLdart I ,S~
1)1'01' I'lu1el hne) from bo&w or fronl
IlIhl hllck ""liS' d.trl,. Cat out bloe:L.
cut up !lnt"~.Inl).
10'0111IIltd IllIIc" CUI up pud Ima.
traee found panek. sb:lpc KaIIIS..cW
3,SI.""' tI~rc10 hc!1a 0( pa.ad sa.ms.
Scm R.Jf"Cto hem ol si6r: ~ and
2C'mIbn: to hem 0( bKt SI.".3&
Add Qlcndcd f3rinp EOtop 01 (root
.Ind bocLposnel,cms~.s 10 oed
4 edit or ede polncttams.
SIt"t',,, 1)c~I,n"h~s '"'ttY ftaR'd
",lee\'1)(rer 10 raSe 50).
3 Princess line
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116
s CI.i\SSIC SHIRT DRESS
T",cc (';\s)' fil1il'lt C\\iJowpam:drn'lO bIoc1
~~ (slml~ht ~hfeseams on bodltt).
v ~ 6
('\1n\'(rl U.5<:measeon ~['k '\hotlkkr Jnto II
8rn:11I dIU 1
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Or:I~' III rilnlp linc an rront ,t'rt lind bc)dM;'C
:!c,n claClh!ihlt (II' t.'CIU~ line
Orufl ~hit'l i'IIIUo((:)'(C"" .den bodICe' 2(11"
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Murk panel Hue On '"'"I .LIM
"okl',) Draw blt..:k JO"~ line. slope down
~ O.5Cln from shoutder dart 10 3rm'C)~ cdsc-
Om'" front yoke 11114:. CUI off )·okn.. Close
• shoulder d(lrt~ Place'(ron I yok~ 10 b&c~
yoke :)1shoulder line. 'reee round pntem.
J 0)9.
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Bael.:~.lIdFrul1l Bodices Troia: bodied.
Cut off front strap, Square: dc.'Mu from bu."l
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It;r t'1~
dart; CUIup line. open appmx, ~cm.
r. Add "en) to centre b;,u;k t>odi«.
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WI Sklr, Traee rounl.l ~klrl block
Construct pleats (ref. -l pa~ 31'. :\dd
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2,'Cln il.,(~ 10side seam.
~I('('\C' Shirl sleeve (~(. 2 ~i¢.aS).
COUll' Shin ~)ll:lt (~f.9 pa~ 70,
6J' "\ Simi' lind Ikll COft,Inw;1 front "rr"p.
1-')(1111
dl)uhlo ,o'''''ll ,",'Id,h: join
belt, hul( It'nllh and t\~lee
;It "",1).1, COl'l(lfU(I
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118
For 'dressln,tkf:"ja(tcls usea d~
7 block constructed from the etosc fillin,
or ~;tS)t filling bodjce blocks.
7 Pleated peplum
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120
.lackets and Coats
"" ... 1rTlOJ\CItET
OR COAT
1·,.-....'" ...,Lci lilac..
Of U'CTpnDnIt
J(j'I(ndu'l' pn fil ~r pnIIC'M m.tU1ftd
1 l)r,ln hlll~;l..tlh rT'duccd buq doIn
,,.In,I., !Jlltl 10 ,"entre "'_04,I1r.k,
nod,\'S,,",'llofl" Drop \cf1cl bn('t (rom
bllclllflil (rOIlII"I(4:h polnl~~tilrll. 2.
' • .a l"'Ick: ~. 6. 1 en (ronl. , 1\
illl
nlld\\'<lYI 1: ~U.lrca('r~ 109,} 10
.tnll (, II I , c m. 4 12 ud ., l.llc:m
I)'.I~ hdck seam tmes9, l. 12;9. 10."
1101\1, (ronl seam Imn S. 6. 11,5. '1,7
Or;s .... In ....~h
podd.
~f!lrL OOlloo.bo&ri. add battoosuad. for
doubk b~;;asttd{root ftc( 3 p;I!.'C' h.
LCJlAt't n((\ltn< ,lod"_' iD ~uamI
m~r sh.lpc.Comtruct staDd:ud coIbt
lind rever (fl:r 19 p.lIC (4) 00 ~
neckline. l)r.I\I, In (oA'1nsb.ne.
"11('1.: l'r-.lce on' ba~"
Sldt, I'alwl Iraee olY sede p;tnt'1
.'11111 rrllt.'e Ircru iC'('liOn~
rnn,(n I em
of bll)( d.ltl IU p~I)('11t1k {u~ a~('".JtC'I.
Ihe fCll1101l1ul,,rttl il d~rt In the" hCC'LIIft(
(ctll., .nd 1.C'l,. rnt« 0« """t1.v "nd
fa'I"$
~kY'C' T"\)-r~
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orr f"Od;d -cit. doubW
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122
, II rn 0 J"I-ET
1,014.'('" olT ullorcd ~ h6od. 10
'r-. 3
knllh rf'qUIR"d I)a.. t.c.i; ... _1
linn..f(m ..rt. 'Uok W'Ut ~_j(ftll" ..rd.
holt" Sholpe .-;lISt ilInd ;;-.k 'tC'...... ,
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I>."hle IrQnt doIn Illto ...;aOt,X Inlo ,,,_')
dll,l\ Add I \"m "oan: 10 hC'mor b..!.l
,,1111('1~jllll Om* in pockct \t,r\
(Ii
bUll0nhok,. IIdd bullons'and,
':,-,I1"'UI,:I .. \1.tndAnJ noc(u ~I.l and
re\e, eft-I 11t p.lI( 7'&,
1'r-oICC orr .. II JC'(lJODJ. ~ bw.t dan,
~huptd.Jn! aad pMd $QJM. ~ll.tcl
olT It (ronl (;lIOO&-Add 11c. 10ceetre
t...;~ or ""'.,boc:l pad for _
In\n'ltd pkolL
SI«,c DaO. ~pca- sJcr\~
• IlrrEOCO\TISLIGHTL'
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'1"-.1<:0
fOlllld (l\(tpnnttll bIoc:L 10 the
k'l\Klh rt:lluin:d (The- 11I.1oRd JA4"a.C'1
hlll('- can be used for a C'I~ fil ,
~111rl.:I., \Ir.u,hl \\;al,thnc. ['Icnd In
fcquin."\I kn,lh 01"'..- ... pdd ~..nl"
"illll"" .n centre bK.. tQm I em I'
~..j'l and h<m Sb.lpt •• ppm). '~m
Al irtl1'll ••• \1 dati .act r-d cam"
I),." '" btll\h.a~
I or ~ h,:'\c1 d.ra- • 06c. un _,
IK.-,;LI,lW'(~t>r.: .. "It_ltnn,.
0-0 mil'" bulwnlwla. ¥Ad bullc>nw-nd
<:on\,r\Kl. roll c:oILu ....... iI bolkMt"I.l
0-0 nIX" (r.:r 16 POQ'C'11:•• ~'Ull bote..
~(1n,I')ru\\' In notcb. Trace (1fT >111
",'tli'lo~
llllt'&: Alid 16c-m tc eeetre bxt "kUl
(or an nweeted piaL ShJ:pt JUMI
warn. .,dd "em fL." t.o beaI.
I rotlt .1'Ie1:,-. rod Shape p;.:ad
SC.\n" ..dJ St.-m Ibn- at Item. Add
1: Scom ft;art •• (toile C'dJC Add pocbi
("'In,,~(n).' k_, C'1ot.e ~ ~r1
rf'.I"~ufT (root (.,0J..
~Iff'" I)DC. ,_\)o~ ~C' tl'*1<
1") (\In,trw..:, """'pcd cuff ''''''co tI6)
'(lIt' Iur ('oldJ<d ,hoo~ nil""
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124
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.and l.he :s.tur1IIrnlK)(' ednpnnlon C~t:
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\\~ftkn"«1: I,Scm, 1()\\'cr fl'(lnl fleck
l cm. Take.Jan off fronl shoulder; add
10 back shoulder. Roo,.1\" annscye,
Dr.t", in )ooke and ~lnt-Jlises, Oro!:"' in
waisa maping cu required or exnrnpte.
n
Shorten dan 10 side: panel tine. •
Sqntr dO'ilin (rom the cemre or (':Icl1 ~ "
d .. r1mg ililhe' Y,;lilol to heMIIi"e,
Add I em Rare 10 side seams urlt! Ii)
lhe p3neb where Indlc:ltcd.
front ,\dd bUllun~lal)d. ,nll,k
bullonhokt. and (:u:inl; lin,..
t.o-c, b(n\hne III frcru l rm.
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.and paclC't,. C"lo~ Jail on ~idi: '1I.)nl.
J!t;(k TnK'e )'C')kcand pall!!l,.
(".lb., .net "~.rililt Traee (lIT(lIcln~.
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SIZING
Spcnswear and some aru;tl "eat mnnuftlclUrtno u.sunUyuse swng bralrr:~ or
Sr>.IA LL. ~IEDIU,\t. LARGe lind XL ..\JtOE. '111eexample sillnp used In the
foll()win~ dr.lflll;In: Mkd on )u-c ~ic..1.• l'IiSh Slft;CI filfh/nll aurmcnl\. Set plgc:
12.
textilestudycenter.com
128
Easy fitting Trouser lind Skirt Shapes
The Easy Fitting Trouser Block
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textilestudycenter.com
130
The Simple Trouser Block
MEASURI,\lLl\l'S RI<QUIR!;1l I'() PRAtT ~7.("S 8 I" or Sml, ~I(d 2.7St'm (rom.a
lll~ 8LOCK ;.i/Cto Il, 24 (II' LAte.XL,Co Jem (rom"
n.c bit""'" c~n be dl'llfil"t1to (hOecodc' 8.10. 12.1.&, 1...9 hr.lr hillh :ulklc nl('.I~urcmcnt plus 6",,",
etC' Sm1. ~tl'<l, 1,,;..; XLgc
(M" J...IU Ihr« qunrlcrs Ih~ rnca,urc""(ftt 1 ,"' plQ):
laamplt Ioho\\n iJ lor II ~jz(' ~,t('tJ.~
«fer to tM Mit O,)c:m.
~ar'l~ (page 12, (or staadnrd IIlC':L~\Jrcmcnt.s (or .IJ,h Dr.I\\' inside leg.lK'l.tln:JOin? 10 ",th " ,.r.aIPl 11M.
SlrC't1/"JiIOlI c.,rmcl'ltll. JOin t 10 c-un·1111!the hue in\\ :Itd\ I em
lbck
hips C).ac:rn s.-Il 3.S!! nt.
bod)nsc 2SCrll 11-12 3.Sc;mjoiI'l12·0.
"'~tofloor I04cm -'-13 half the meesurement 4--S.
bigh a:nklt: 21cm 8-14 tbe measurement .t-8 plus O.Scm..
......15 I ern.
)Pin 12-13 and 13-15 wuh it curve louo:hlng a peunl:
Front S'l2eS N-I.t or Srnl, ~Ied. Scm (rom"
SqU3ft' dO'll.n and l'Itm.(s f(,()11I 0, .QJlCS 16-2.&or tSe-. XI.sc- S.Scm (rum"
0-1 bod)' nse ph"': I ell);llqlHI~ncress, 9-16 2cnl,
0-1 ,,-;Jist 10 noor: squun: across, 16-17 Jcm.
1-3 balf ,be measurcm('lu I 1: ..qUlin: ~et"(lSS, Or..",· I"lidt leg $C;II":Join 16 17 .."ilh " "Iralfh, line.
1-1 qU.. rter hip nl('tI'UI'(,nl:tll phi' 4cm: ~U.lr'C' up ),l)ln I~ 17 eurv in» the line In\\"rdi 'em
toS.
s-6 lem. Cn"lllulC 11()ItC'.ll,C'l't ""II"'"
.&...7 qu.au('r the IU(,II!lu(..:n)cnl '" S. Tr.,~ 10UII(IbIll:"~\!tll)n ~h~.~...)' ,,~)
.a...s one ,,"1111(1' thQ nll!lI\\lrt:nlcnt I .a '"lnu1 U.Scm TrulX round (rolll section (doll4.'d hnej
Jorn 6-7 .nd 7 8 \\'illl tI carve 10ll(hl1l& Ia pomt: 'iltror 'hc frol\! 11111.1
1,lllct Ihe: -'jade: ~.ImJIOSClhtt
F,oot Ibc;k
Square d(l'fo'n Irom O. 3-1 1C'm~square down 10 8.
dei" len~lh required: Mlul'lf'Cout.
Q...t 0-9 ~'bl,~1nl(,U~UI'l:melllplu~ 6.Scm: 'iqU,3f('ur
0-1 \1t,41»110 hrp measurement: square OUI I 2Scm 10 10, Join 1 10.
~3 qUilncr hlp mcn",IN:lnl.lnl plus c).Sent;: iiquan: Cunc the hipline (lUI U.l.s~'ln.
d~rt.'o" JQin 0 10 w ilh u curve,
131
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132
I '!IAGOY'T~OUSI'.RS
Trace ofT tbe back lind fr-\)nt I)f rbe t';I~)fil1in.
trou~r block.
Shftr1tn 10 the requlred 1I,'!n~1I',
If '\"1")' !)up») U'CUIi(C"" ure '''''<IUin:d.('UI ur the «ntre
line ... nd open r'e.,utr~'tIllnlounl
.....
1'O1l1 I)m\\ in $WC; p.lllel litle.
\1I1I'k (lOin,; 0 I on Ih" In~kl(' leI SC'<tm
1'>.11:11(1the IIl1e troll I I.
4)...2 I~ one thll'd di'lUIIIC.X'0-1: :lqu:.re d~n 10 J
+-S • 1-3: lIqutlre up 10 (I.
Draw 111the r,.ckel bas Irem rhe Jude:p;lml hac.
Or.l"" In Ihe fmnl !>O'k~l..
Dr.:I\Io·in the side pocket: nlurk po,nlS 1 lind 8_
Trace off front !lnd skte (ront.
6¥c~ 9-IQ4nd II J2~lretbemc»un:mcn' 1-3:
square lip to the iniildelegseam andJlck~.
Draw LOtbe side panel line. width ~ 1M meuumnenl
7.s 011Ihe side: !,,<,ckc:t.Mark side poel:CL.
Tra.I:c 00- ~ck nnd ,~idl:'biu:".
l'oct"ls Trace 00' pocket Ixtg. (ront pocUt and side
pocket,
\\':,i ...'bllnd t;On~ltut'l
II ":II'lb,.lnd~ ~a'u~mrnl or
1M Yo';lisllin{'of the ptltterns created lind •• nee Iht'
v.J(Jlh tcqull'<!d. ~i"fk fcJl~ line do",n ""In:
! ON!;·I'II cr 1'ROUS~KS
Tt~ (10~the \'cry t:!I~YI1l1ln, r(OU'!oC'r
btOtL
n.~l:.nd l~r(1I1t Sht1rlcn 10 the ~Ulmt ~n'lh_
Squal'C dU"'1\ from () al Iltl: c"Cnlrt fron' '0 1
SqUIJI'\' eeress 102. Square up to l.lau .bo\c
v.1IIMbnc,
EXIt-nd Iho bO!ck\\'uhalil\¢ to ).
Cu....::st:iDraw II \'~rliclll bne, kn,gth IIUem.
~i rk point" "~Ithe ccentre: square OUl.
..
+-5 ~ppro,;,24c.'m.
Om\!' a line 8tnl lon,g. p:lr.tl!cl lO (be:: top 0( the
verucal fine.
Dnlv.':' line f leu Ion!:,pamuel to the bottom o( the
\'C1'1itolllir'lc.
5-6 III the nleit~un:nl(nl 0 I; ~1UiU't"0ICRt$'S.
5-7 is the measuremem 2-3; square eercss,
""h,Ib:lnd COn:f.IOICI(I w;ai'fOlb;tnd'IS 1Ibo\-e
133
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134
Eusy Filling Body Shapes
The Basic Shirl Block
..,
~ 8«"k cun~from 20 21.
19-22 one t1nh ;Ifnl~)'e cleflill plu\ O.5 e-m. sqU<Att
con.r
COA)ttUC1 It (hlft coll.lt (rtf. 9 P,llc iO)
21-,t.I half the ml.'ttllutcllhlti\ '" :11 plu~ I tin: "IWlR' I)(plh of ,hirt <:ollar nnd ~t.lnd Ilppm, SC!M
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136
The Busic 'Flal' Overgarment Blocks
For CBS}filtin,pckcls and a\~rg_~lrn1('nl'i
MEASURI,\lLl\l'S RI<QUIRt;1l I'() PRAtT OD\IoIn Ihl! (rQllt annllC)'C"ha~~" sha.:n In d145fil1m
lll~ 8LOCK to ,ouch point" 18. 17. ~.
n.c bit""'" c~n be dl'llfil"t1to (hOecodc' 8.10. 12.1.&,
etC' (M" Sm1. ~tl'<l,1,,;..; XLgc s......
laamplc Ioho\\niJ lor II ~jz(' ~,t('tJ.~
«fer to tM Mit 0..1 hllir Iht' Mtjt);uttl11cnl 6 1on bod) l*KL plus
~ar'l~ (page 12, (Ot staadnrd IIlC':L~\Jrcmcnt.sfer .IJ,h Iem. sqUJU\' across,
Slt«1 ftlt./ilf'lt ",.rmel'llll. 0,..2 ~\(' lenglh pili" Iern: :f,(lu.t~M"nN.o
The to;U" fI,gurc:seousucet the Jlu;)(:1 block. the W theInelJ:lurc'Ucnl of ttlll: lIrmk')c CUf'\(' (rom
figurn 10 bmckets the overgarment block. 15.. 8.
2...... 1\\'I)·lhirds the. measuremeer 1 3 plll') O.S-cm:
bu" 8Scm sJlould<:f Il.Jcm jClln l-I.
Q;lPC: to •• ist -'Iem buck width ~ •.Jcm Oi\ide 0-3 into six sections: mark. points S. 6. 1. S. 9.
""'ai$t 10 hip 20.(icm armscye deplh llcm 01"3\'1in the back.sleeve head:
a«kuu: }ian «tee....(' l~ng'h ;Scm ho1l~' the (UNe O.)cm :.t 5:
raise the: CUI'\'C' 1.5clll at 8 uud 9.
Sa,," .00. Frobt~riOClS Ora",' lu the (ront steeve bead:
Squ~rc d~ n and eeross {(,(UII O. bcncw Ihl."cun"C: O.7$cm 111$:
0-1 txu;k n<xl to \\'Ililil plu} Jcnu square ;lCrQ),." rollll('use curve 1.1Stlll tlt 8 and 9.
1-1 .... is'! 10 hlpc fqUt'lr"Cacross,
0-3 qUIner bU~1mcasurenlcnl plus 4.5cm Clcm~ S","t' .'itt,b I·olllt..;
,.qu.J~d~'n 10 .a and S. '\.om", ,ltc:\~IId"l'tlltiOII'i require pit<i:h potnl, on 'he
()..6 lan. '(Iec\'(, 1tnd body ~l,(ljQU~
6-7 *rmlC)'C depth plu~ 4cm (6en1):MatU"" IICross10 ~t"r1: pc')inl Ii on Ihc sleeve .." II pllI:b polnl "IIh ..
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6--9 hJlr .he me ...sI.lIC:IIlC:IU6 1: )Iqul,lr.: \)1.11
1be rneasuremem 6--9 minus U.25..m:
..... 0 f.lloLoilnc.r
nalch ~1e'I),lIkthe sleeve curve (rum 1 6
~tC'3r.U"" Iliolljllhc nrlnsc)c o( ItIe bcMJ) ')c(1K'm
same di\lanCC, Murk die; plh!h p(nnl..) "'Ib .. nOlth •
...,he;
JqIU;~ cut.
0-11 one: fifth n« .. ,.I_i'~ J'llu~0.4'0' (O.7('m).dr.....
~l n«1: curve, The 'Flat' Kimono Block
1-12 hal( across back plus Scm (4.jrnl); squ:afC:up
1013,,,d I... Rod~'St'(lions
......'5 I.Sen':jcun 11 15. 'T'r3c:c- !'<'lundOO;iJCb~tl,';kbcJ.c.ly
stUIPC of }oIcktt. or
~. in b3d arm.sc..")"C shape 10 touch points IS. 13. o\crganncnl blocks with the front ntt:klinc and
S. ~nnscy(' dc_plhline n'nrkcd.
~i"rI:poinls U. 1. 2. 3. J. S.
Frool S«lion ~ I.Scm. Join 1-6: extend the line
~16 one: fiflh neck slae ptus O,.acm (O,7cmk a,.... in 6-1 the sleeve Icng.lh.
1M (toni n«l. curve, Squ.:src out fmnl Ihl.1linc 2 7 th~ mc:.t$lJrcmtnl 2---4on
1)-11 O.7Scm(I ern). lhe block slt'(:ve used plu$1cm. ~1ark po,nlB
Dtwv.' a bnc O.15cm below Ihe line squ~rtd QUt (rom "-9 quaner the ml';t$urC:Jncnt0 I
10. 9.10 21.""':$(11l.1~dc~\\'n10 II, Jofft 10-8.
II-IS ,he'me.-::"un:nlc,UII 15; dm\\ (mnt ,houlde'r
IJn(' to louc.-:hIhe new IInc al pnilu 18.
137
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textilestudycenter.com
138
I J,\CK ar INSETSLEEVE
Tr~ afT the back, fft)11I 1!1,d l'1C'C'\1;
of.he 'tb\·Qi),
filUn! jacker block.
Rae!.: #tld .:""11 Shun en IQ th(' t't'qutrcd knSlh.
0,..,,,, in \'Cflit'llllinc:t ilt the side ",",nel ~tlO"S.
IJac.-k Stilipc' in Ille ~"(nln: h.1ck seam l('m .:andlem('r
thr "~:d'i pC>lIition 2,,-01
Shil('ll: 11'11\1 lilt' ",.II~( (II' the back p,lncl lane lO'ft.
Trxc 00" tht bll~·k.
front .nd Fr.1l11 Vokt Sh ..pe In the "ilUl or
tbC'(ronl
panel hnC' 2ellll square down to the hlrl:tac.
Dm ..' in Ihe (rQnl )'Ok~tine.
Drill'" In tbe bUlt(lI,~ullld.mllr. butlQnhole:s;: milrt tbe
ny hoe.
On'''' in the (!leine, Hnc, Oray,· In the: pockC'1 bag..
Trace off lhe front {Inti frol'll yoke.
Sik P:lD(' TrJC't'ojl' rronl.s.idc paml and reverse abC'
section.
Tt'dCCoff Ixlck side panel and join to I~ fronl ~nd
:ll the ,ide: seam.
·•• S~l-'S Reverse (ront sleeve alon,!;.the
\10,11:('lbcM' hnt hl'U\\';\), dO'4'n the uftdfnrm
crnlR line,
~m
·
• 1)1";:1.'~ h;,ck
~r3mlc
Kltnl 11111:.
the skoevts. Shape both sl('C'\~ I em QUI at
clbo\\' lind I em III !II Ihe hClIt
"."ifl1,t 1I1M1Fly I"h"\'(! 'I"rnccolf rllclnl- Ttu« off 8)
PJI."eX .,Iolllt the Ry fine: I'(\(h( the pIt'« :&~n. thot
(old line.
Collar COfllltr-UCt cOI\\'crtlbk (olbr C"" 3 ~ltC' ft)).
l'OC'Lc' 1I1It:. trace aO' "1K'~e, b.ll,
2 ilt~NCH COAT-INS~rSLJ±VE
TI"'J(:JC
olr the baek. front :l1\~ "Jec\'( of ,hi( "tJ.lI·
O\'('rprmcnl block.
S.d; a.nd l~r01lC Lengthen 10 tbe ~uu''C'd kugtb.
~\dd ;lern nare 10 $idc seam hem,
Dr.I\Ioin back .!lld (ronl nap,..
Bar,., Add S"'Jn pleat extension, Conslntd IOcol
pleat (.,aas- TOtl'C on' \lack- nap'
Front ,-,""cr front neck I em.
0(;:1"" In bl.lllonlin(:~ add bUllon.)liAnd and f('\C'f. m ..rk
bencnhcles. Drew in (:lcinS tine,
Trace oIT from Ollp.
Dr...· in pi'ltkel lind puckcl n"",
Sk<"'Il"S Construct D$ llbe1\(' cXllmpk. Dr:.:rw In sleeve
).ttap 3.S~·I))."!'r'llce on' ).I'"P
... ,,1"1:IIl1dCt)II~f 'I'nl~ ulT 1:1\:1n,
~1C!1,urt (I(c); 'n (\In,IC (ronl. Ccn:tltu.:a a Shift coJll4r
\\,thoul button~~Itn~i()n (n:r. 9 P:alc 7Oj.
COn\lrUel II ,un.11Ieoltar lab Ihe \\idlh 0( colbrs&and
I)MLtC, rrll~'" (l0' 1'(K'k(,1;Intl poc:k(1 n:.ll'
Shouldt'r Slnll' ConStruCt .)houtdC'1'"r ..r. ko,th or
shoulder lind twice the width n.-qUJrni.
139
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140
J SWINOJ,\CKIIT/COAT KIMONO SLEEVE
Trace oil 'he back lind frunt I)f rbe rt'qUIY'td ~tI"3t'
kimono blO('Ir:.
Rlat''' _tid ':ro.u I;XI4!nd10 the n"'qulI'~d1tft~lb,
~tllrt; !'<lint 11.'I11h~'Indl.:1'u r...,. I Z Scm; I .)Scm;
JOIn 1 J wuh II ('ur\,< I)rll~ In rnslan se..m~
\1",i: -1 one lhlrt.ll~nalb or rn"l;&o ~m. Jotn " "".
Cunt the: ~lce\'C: .k.lln,
I)m" In \Itlt' 1',lnel1inc.,.. l)i",ItJe NICk tnlO IhtU
SCltIIC.1I1!1.rf('"C IUlt.l side pi1ntl~ IDIU ,\\'O~,.
I)",,,,, In the-buucnstaud, huuunbo&o and fileD,.
otr bll~'k
O.. C'k Tt'UC:1! section. Cut up IhC' di\"klln,
boC'" IIJ)d open 111the hell\ the n:qulred amount.
,....ronl TrdCCon' front scctlcn, Cut up tbe di,-.din&
tine and open al tile hem the reqetred o.mOIlOL
Draw to pocket \\'<:11llluJ pocket ~.
8::u.k _nd .~ronl Side l,t:1nc:ts- CUI up Ihe dividing nne
md epee at the: hem the required :amounL
S~'(' Truce off $I¢C'\'~ R,cv(Ne fronl 5kc;:\-.;:
aed
JOin on the: centre line, CUI illong. lhe: Imn: )-4 ;and
epen :tpprox, -tcm. Redraw the sleevecurves,
0,.,,,, lo\\'tr sleeve line. Traee olT lo"'tf :dee\c.
("oU;1lrlind F"cll1):: True.: r.Ie'ln;. ('Oft!Iruc1 fhapc'd
converuble ccllnr v..ithcut stand (rer 8 page 10),
110C"l.cl),Trill.O(ufl' \10'1:11IUld pocket bot$.
4 \\IEA 1111!tt\\'EAM KI:OI()~O SLtF\'1
:otll")' \.Irlillion~ Or Ihi" $1)'lc('lin be tlpphtd
\\.:.tthcr\\"('."I~u~unlly(ull)' ~I( linN;
Tr.t('(' fliT rue hllCk, l'r~111lInd il«'o't or the (':;I})' fitlU'1
'0.,' kimono hlo~k.
Altached hood ollly: lewer bac!!. oa:k O.Scm: _ickD
b:lcl: :tnd rf()UI nt(:k I ern: tower rront n«L I em
s..ck ItQdFront Draw in IITnliC}(' sbilpe (rom .pproA.
Scm past sh('lukierl)()int J on the onllu=..J bIoc:k..
Take I em dnns from sjeeve~1I0ns:1\\0 .blnls k:nSth
of back armscye, hair the length or fmnt OltmSC')'c"
~12ri; pcmt I ttl the underarm. 1-2 Scm: 1-3 lOan,
Join 1-3.
8.xck Draw in b~.ckyoke linl:,Tn:u:coff )ol:c.
Fro"' S«tlclIl~ Il¢\·('~ rront Or.." III (ronl yoke
and 10\\"Trpanel line, Druw in pocL~t I\:tps ud pod~t
b;z~,Or.'!,\, in 1'Ioc)(:t:Cl ?jl) bee, Orll'A' In 1M 0) "'CCC
:lppml. 2.!icnl (':s~h 'Iide of eemre 11I'ltr
Tr.tL"C'(Iii the 11In.'(:freut p:tn('l~ Reduce lbt' fronl edge
or 'he: r_lIltlli b)' lhe \!,lid!h or 1M 11r-
Skt-\'O Tfil~ oW ~lcc\'C1r.JOIIIon thc «nl~ liM
CUI alOII!; the lil1~:;2 ) tHut fI~n IIPpro:\ )ern
ReeJl1l\\' IJI."t\"'('h~j,d lind undcrlltm \\llb "'\I"'~
Dr_,.' III buck se.nn Hne. Tnlt.'Coil' b;a.,,'t ~c.
"1~ 1'1(\('\'Jilld ZII' I~XI(II..I(lfl 'I ";1« an It) PM"«lions
lhe 0) hue. Ttace 01T LIp P'l"CCfrom the eeeue hnc.
Rc\e~ IXlIhpleces atcng the raid lmes,
1'Ml.ccs ., rllt'( ..,0' pocket b<I,I$IlInd p«Let O;)pt..
I-tOOlS Con"lnu;'1 hood (ref. 5: page 149,
1-' 1
3 Swing jacket -
kimono sleeve
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142
4 Weatherwear -
kimono sleeve
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HOODS 1.9
4 SIMPLE 11000 1'9
S GUSSETED HOOD 1.9
SIZING
Spo't~'Vo~arlIud ~ ~u~J wear Jnanu(lIclurers U.!oUlilly use sUing braks of
Sr-.-IJ\LL.~IEOIU~t. L\ROE ~nd XI_I\R(iE. The e.1llmptc.' ~wn" ~ 1ft
lilt l'ollov,lngdn..fi$ are based on eee ~4cd.. J'lIgb SUlXtjumifHtl;trmctlu.. See
p;tgc. 12.
textilestudycenter.com
144
Easy Fitting Blocks for Jersey \Vcar
Illnc:l:s(or T~ Sbin~ Track Suits and Jersey J:ICktIS
E:,ampk )'ho\\1)i!i for II size Mcll: reler to (he:.sue lS-11 skc\c kngtl' (jeney) plus 2(111(Scm): ",Wife'
C"h;.ttJ (~pc J 2) (or Sli1l1d:.rdIl1t:bUr(m~nts(or Hllh seress,
S'tc'd/whl(Nf ... mt....
nL"- 1S-18 tbe me..euremeru elf rhe d.:ag<)tlal bnc from
The main fi~ure$eonstruct 'he Tee Shirl Block. tbe 11-12 on body section plus 2cm! square <10-'11 to 19.
6_gu.~ in brackets the TrQcl>Suit (It f"1ictu ,beket 18-10 cne third Ihe measurement 1$-15:.
8I0<Il, Om"" in sleeve head.
18-20 hollow llle curve O.6cm.
bun 8S<m shoulder l2..1c:m 2O-L'" rouse the curve 1.750-'''.
D..pc: to "';allil 41 1;11' b;.n:1{ width ).a"",,em 19....z1 one third the "'C~I$UI'C'mcnt 11 19:joita 18 21
~....i):t to hip lO.6c"1 urmscye df:plh 21 em
ll«'k siu J7cnl Sbort SW\l'
...... e ... S'h 52cm 1s..21 $I«\'C lel'&lh ~llUII·C',t'\Quu«' :.etOSS10 ll.
(J<O<)') l.t..U l,~c:m:
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(),..6 (KIefinh n~k -Jzc (plu~I cln): ~'Iuare up,
UncI> 1I1\\.lrd$ 0,75,,'1))
7-26 3cln:join 25 ·26.
6-7 l ctn: dril....
' in nl'tk curve. Cut 11\\'1)' :!Ihildc:ds«tlon.s.
3-8 ball' back wadth plus t).SClll t3~Scnl): square up
10 9-and 10. Sk-M't'
to-II O.5ro1(I.5Cln): join 1-11. Trace sleeve ,Ili r'llI sectlen,
~Il one qU3rt('r bust plus 2CLU(4jcm): square E.,,'cod the centre lint:of steeve,
doK'D 10 13. Drew par.aUcllines each side of 1Meeetee bne; the
Dr.I,,' in ~rm$C)'C' (U"'I: (1'01n II throllgh 9 co 12. rae...'uN:ment of (I~lthlitle from the: «nttll: line is. Jem,
0-1.. one fiflh neck :;L7.CInIlIU~ I.Stm (O.Srnt);dr;)\\ W-17 the measurement 25 26 on lh~ b;sd;
in (ron, DCC'L. 10-18 rbe measuremem 2S-16 on the (root.
&cl: ~nd (ro.1'11are the $:lnlC eXCCI)1 (0' Itte nccl: JClln 27 28 ",jib (I curve,
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Hoods
~lEASURb TI-Ir: SIi.CK
'I'h~ntdhn{' or hoodl"tJ gill nll:llt~ I.) tI'>UlaUylu",~n:d
and .kJ('n.~ \icuti\lf( tho ne\'. IIcc:kllnC',
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- Measure the neck
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SqUJrt d~-n oInd .U:NS$ t'f\1111Q.
()..I Ihtl'(' qUAncr.loIbt' nllpc to \\jl~lolm~d)U~mt"nt
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1-2 6tm;
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~1 quarter measurement 0-1 plus 2cm.
1--8 lan. DMI\'.in the head curve I. 8.6.4
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E'-tcnd the (mnt line "PPR)X.. tcm for n racing.
5 GUS$F.TEI) BOOI)
SqUll~ dCM'nand llcro"'.. troru 0,
6-1 Ihft'C'qU_lInc~the IIIIPC10\','IIl\1Inc.lju~mmt
ptu\6cm
1..2 mC';'II,urc:ml.'l1lof (NUll IllId bltck nC\:Lhne
~UO.l~ up 10 .\ •
2-1 1.San:Joln '-4.
1-3 8:.c).neekh~rnea-uremeur.
Raasr ttl,(- eerve 6.Senl Irorn I S.
t..u.'U I~ curve 1cru Irom 4 S.
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7.
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one fifth the measurement 0 ); squan: d()Yo'1lto
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6-13 half the measurement 6-1.
..... " 1cm. Or..\~'in rNnt curve 1~.13. '4
Add bu"OMI:tnd~ mark 101UdpoSilioni.
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ISO
Knitwear Blocks
\'el") (01iS)fitill', &,lIfn'C:ln~can be eut (rom "mptt lltc:- bl.lliic »rid I(H' knlt\\(,llf ean ee uS«J (Of
b.'ik'shaf'l""; lh,' i, IlJlrliculllfly :10 i( )'1)1.1 are "Of kin, dcslpina slu,pc~li,r hnnd knith", or machu\(
",lb "nilled garment ..h:lI)CSOf "11h jc:NCt r:.brk:. ~ ~Iutllna. The ~'XIHUf)lcs t.hl)\\' h;a~I(,M\:lptI.. but (:af
IiIhr..: ,*,,11Jlr(u::h ever Ih~' ~'olnl'k)Cran:a"or ItI< bod) "'0r( ('(l,upJt<),.hal)l.!'~em be dc\ttopcd
'I Co. the bu,l) or u ttll" or the bml)' lh.'l hli:\"CC,\f'("mc
mevemem (LC. ('100"·')'
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154
Computers and Knitted Garment Shapes
The "ttl,lInc indU)lfY j" IU,,\' hil(hl)' t:{)111rUlcrlltd l"hc el1l(1 kllhuns lIuluSlty. \\htch USC"S
do~tC
~i"n)' miKhinC'.)can Ltlll ,"nnt:Ill.~ ,hlU tmrlO) \nlll1nC1n;,chuu:, ,,, now ere..lln. :.d,C'nlutou) )hapc-~
r.ihJou,n, to C~:llc:inletlull $h(lfJill~.Prrm .Ind stable otl'H1 Jc.''4iJI'I\. CQI111)111Cr
1)(olu'lnl. "hK"h :t~
10 cHn~lrUl:llhl) I) pe or
lr.n~ttt<l( ..bnc j\ uOC(d >urprl\ina1y incXI~n!iI\'41.Ilr.: :.,\..llllb.!(.. ~ PCOIMlm.li
pnnd'1 Garmentll eOIl)lfll~'c:d in loose or un-slllbk offer b;»Je lihl1ptf. which \.'nn ,11(n be modlfk'd. Of th.c
kOltlcd (abn.r:. or highly l);tllCrneli r,lbrll:. u..'IUltIl)f'(")' progmm \\'111"now you 10 create )vur O"D Wpe1.
M tbe C'1.l.)~.)Implc. kni'l~ IIhllP!:$,lihi)Wnon Ih~ Soll~(,prow-nln\~1111\(.'
11 ~rl'lIln~ ~>li.trn (C)f- "Mln,,,~
prt'\iou-," pages, ~lutu)fu.l!tufCfS of c:hlUlptf knil\\'e;lt. "'ell as individunl siting .
...1tK"b 1$ cut from 'body bll,nks' and then o\'l'rfockro.
:also uSC:$Implc sh:lp¢$ in Qrder 10 luinimilc r,.bric
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SPECI/\I..~O'TE.c;
'+h(,:04'blocl:1 3rt" cons.rueted (0 be ~Jnilncr .thlll Ihe boo) mC:l5urcml:'nl. ~tld10
!Urtll.1hto t~ bod) sb::tpe Scme 4dju\lmentS 10thl: Itori-zonlal measurnncnls
m~y have In be m:.d( (IhiS should be related 1(1Ihe $I~tch "nod rcl:..~lion of
dltltrenl r"br ..."'l f"r more t«hnieu.1 ,nformation ulld bluc~ ("(lI\,..""",llon W"C'
('har1t'N 2 land 'In I"ub¥k. /'fKIf' IlIrlll''1t1t 1~/Jtt'rll (·I./I,J,,~abe b) the ilulMr.
~tOSt dC'...I",(;n 'Im('h f..bric'li '1fC slm"le nlotlilicluiol14 of the b;aJ.i( blocls.
the (')l.lllnpK111\thts dwPCCf dcm()ft,'r.llo some 1,.lrli~ul.lrIc..:hnlqu('",
'Ibe ..1«\'( n~.;t\ur<n'('nl u..c<l j) Ille jcr'IC'y;.ll"\'C tenalh. but IlIl\ m:.) \Idl h.r\('
10 be IIdju1tro '0 r.a_bri( J(fttt"h .lnd n:.1.1.AlJlionPI'OPC:rI'~
SI7.INC:
Spotl~'I'(d.t lind SO11M'C<lMW"'('UT mOilluOu.:tun:r$ u~ulllI)' U~ swng b~k.s or
S~II-'LL ~IEOll1~t.l..AkGE. ~nd XLAltGb, 1'11C exampte "i:nap IJ.SC'd In the-
lollo\\·jng drafLs::a~ baiaj on sill' ~t('(t.."liSh Street (u,/,Io" prm('nb. S«
IXI~12.
textilestudycenter.com
156
Close Filting Body Blocks
'f'bNc hI()C'kJlere drafiC'd ror maxtumm l'tn:tcb. fine Sbort Sk-tt,'C
ntlbcd ,chC)' I>t 1.)'C'(3 fllhfics. f.;\tr.1('_a~nmJ«I ror 1' .. l.1 steeve lena1h n:iIUln:d; ~qU"f~ lIem'li( 10 14
ks" fI~lbIe )CN) (111)rl($i:. 1I110n""in bm~t(l~ :U-15 I.$('m:j(>in 20 lS wnh u eutve,
>1«\,<
ti<n<»
"""h 52cnl 0-.2 \\'Ai.\t10 nOelr Ininu~ Sent.; iqu.t~-:tC~
1-3 bult tbe measurement 1-2: squ:;u'C'aercss,
1-1 quarter hip mcasurcmem minus 2cm.;square up
llood) StflinrK to 5.
Squa." dO'l' n ;Ind ~IC{O'''Sfrom (~. S-6 icnl
0-1 nl);}. to ",'ai~tplus I em (O,Scm)"; square ocros.s.. +-7 qUI. ncr the measurement oI-S.
O-l finished Icn,lh: squltt\' :\cr(r,\J, 4-11 eee Sill:lh the measurement I......
~.l armK':)'C'depth Illil1U~ 3 tin (11;'11\; M4u.lrc UCf'C)')t.. '*
Join 6 7 ,Inll 7 \.,.1111
u eurve tou~hln,. J)C'lnt
~ hair the mClJsurement 0 ): "'lu,lIr¢ IICI'O"S. SllC$ 8 ,.. 2.2~~n'(ron,"
1)..5 eee "'aJuh lit" rneasurcment 0 4: liq"ar( ~ sl/C'C 16 22 2.S('n, (ron,"
0-6 CHICMl:th nctk ~i~(' (1)1U1II en.): lIqu:,~ u", 2--9 hllit hi~h nnkle (nc:.I~u~nlCnl mlnv, 0 ~c:m.
... , t.Jem: dr.I'" JI\ 1I~'(1i:euree l-IO t"'O thir~s Ihl.) IIlt.LS\I~lncnt , .... mlnu, 0 Scm
U bolLr~d.\\'Illth mif'lu~ 2,Scm (1I;'n')~lIqUil1'C up Draw lrulde leg !lei"": j01l1I) 10 ""Ih a .tr'il~1 hnt.
to 9;and 10 JOin 8 10 ('Un ing tbc line in"'II'W O.'Scm
III-II I an: Jo,n 7 II.
J...t 1 qlRlnc:t b1JStminQ~ ~c:ln (I ('ttl): MjUOLrc dC)\\n to n..c'_
13 em the ..-;tlstllne., 1-1on 1111:hemline .5-11 4"",,
tP~"
1ft arm.st..')( (\It\'¢. frOIl' II Ihrtlush 9 10 12. Il_ll Jcn':join 12 O.
lJ-tS :lcm (2Ctn~ draw III ssde k<'Illl 12. IS. loa, .....13 cue Ihitd rneaauremcnt -4 5.
~16 QIl(' sixth neck size Ininu, I em (U.S-em): 8--14 one finh measuremeurt-a.
01":1\\'in fronl neck curve. Join 12-1J tlnd 13...1·1"'ilb " curve louchin; .. pcian
Ibtlr: ~ndIrcnt ;.'It(' lh( $:Inlc c-\r:epl for ftont n«l si«:$ 8.-1.. 3.1Sl.!nl from':
curve. "aes 16-22 4em from 4,
9-15 2cm
S,""" 1(}..16 .l('m.
Squ~R' dtNn rrom 17. Draw mside leg /leiU»; jcm 15-16 ",Ih a 'Ilnugbt hne,
.7-18 tulf Ihe In~!u,un:.n'ent0-3 rlu\ I em lO,5cm). join 101-16. cur\'c lho line In\l,-'"rd$O.15cm
11-19 jC'~y liJC't\'e lcn2th plu~ .tem f2('m); SQ\lltrot
x'o,...,_ Crt'MlllIj:• Oni··I"jC'((, 1).lltrn
11-20 .he mell)urt'1l1CIU or ,he:,ll.l,l:l,)nl&llin( rrom rr..c."'< mun,1 bllck lOI.,,'1inn
(hea\) line)
II 12onbod)S«tlonJJ1u~O.5cl'n Tr~ round (roll1 $(<.,,1011(doued IIn~.
lG-2:t onr Ilurd mc:l<O;\lr~"'~'l1t 11 2{). \llrror ,11('(",I)llllul plItt'( Ihl: 1id~ ~~m'\ 1000lhrr
Oru\\ 1ft ikc\"t h(,lId. IlolI(l\\' the C"f\~' Q,64..'ttt(roaa Add l.Scm f;acl"" al Ih~ 1<'(1). Zero (jl('tft,III th( hem
20 21: r..l.~Ih(' C'Ut\( 21,;In rn)m 11 21
1'-12 hal(" flsi phl5 O,S ...nl (I ('n,'; j0111 20 12.
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158
I CLOSE Fln-INO RUI8F.D TOI' 1 81\SIC CAP SI.EEVF.1l TEE
Troll:<01Tlh~ block (Of l1ul;<ln111111.lfc:l.:h rllbtic 10 tbe Trece niT Ihe blcx:k for ,1.".... tlesibl\': jerk) rabnc to the
f't'qUlmj kngth ~Ultt'd length.
Bact and Fro"' SC'<'II(ltli' l)rll\V In Ihe 1()\\<n:'J Rae" IItld .:«UII Sl'CII4)n.; l)rll\\' In ~'(mIn«""ne
MeL'inc JLa~ ("Ulo;l\\jl)' ftfln~)'CItn", Draw in .he :a-,. rC'ClU Irc(!.
.tdlh or nhbcd cd6!u,S around the nccL and ~tc'\'C.... ~IC"('\(' I~rllw III the: ('liP -ccrlon on Ih(' ~'('
Trace orr .he back and fl'Oll1 sccucns, \1"1'10poin,,, • ;'1'1<1 2. ~1clIsu((, Ihe konlth.
'1C:;lSIl~ Ibt: t;al"CIKIl81h On 'he bod,« ..rm.tot)c po,nl
.\ .a fl.1olk u nOh.'h III poilu 4.
Trace ofl' the ,op CliPsection of IhC'~~ Ol\m mte
(our sectlons,
Om.' u vertical 1111..1
hbriwlu!11 h«
CUI bod open Ihe.sI.'Clion; ;l~
1ho....n,
TicMXround the new sleeve shape,
15-16 SCfU,
16-17 2.5c:m:dra,\' l1:gcurve 11.!' 12..
4 STRI;T('li DRESS
Tr.ux' off the block (or tl'iS tre:xibit'Ff'K)' I:,bm to tbr
r('quu~dleegrh.
Illl~l. 110«1
l')Ollf &'(1100" 01'11.' In Io,,~k'd n«l.""e
.a~tequlred, 1)(11\\' ill tll'nl$<;)( bne,
0,..\10 in fro,.t Ilo.H1CIIiI\e.
Tr.r.oc<,Ir b.;lck nnd ftonl ~11(,"'
IJIt'1.. ~hllpt "'al~1ill I ('In ",t .. J'W)lnl lnn bt~ It\<
n..lurll' \\ililltUIil'!. Add I .s cn.. flJIT to btm
fmnl Sh.ll>C'Volli~lO.S-cm. Add l.5cm t].1.rt= to hem
CUI und o\'trll'1l) the ncekUn~ O,~cm
Sid(' P••K'1 Shape \\'Wlit III I em. Add I.Scm B~rC'to
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160
Bod~shilpers ll-21 r;lltC Ih.:tun(' 2,,_
%'90-3%hAI( wti'll "luJon ~tm, JOltt JO..l! "-llh
MEASllRI Ml "TS RP,QUIIUU 1'0 DRAFT a curve
TIlE810("
n.t~~~'"""bronnnJ In~l/~c,'odn:!t.
10.I!.'" 'iWt :\.....,..
... s.I. "<d. I.,.. XL..
0< Z'7-).,\ .~c k-n,lh maUlft\J. ""w...1't ....-",,10 lot
fuer't • .".. I~ror II\b(t 'ltd "rer &0 Ik ~ J.I-l$ I ~cm,)OIn 10 JS "llh.a cunc.
cUn, (~ IJ. (or "1:lnd~,,1tn(.l'UR'm(nl> S\)r.11'"
~1tU\j.l;AI(~.",mtnllii, !')ftt,'C'h.......nod) ...hlll~"r
1l-J.6 2.$\,,.1
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~."'1ll nf\-'" !)./C )1(.. 11-37 .. ~efn. draw tn IIC',""
IIIRI....')C' cgnlt'6 ~,
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~~dtprb lion (pw)1 5:...
bar.* "'lh ~"cm \1,1"'" If)"... Swimwear - Basic Shape
Bad< 8111("1:
Sqw:~d"" n And across (mnl O. Coru.lrU(,1 ;i\\·j,n\\'car
block Il~lor bod)~r blocl:
.... ned; ttl _~I'I plus I em, s;qu.lrc .ICI'OS$. up to poll'll 7.
1-1 bod) n\t. "IWlre- :sC'wss.
t-J U'DbC)C *rtb plus 1.5fJft;iqu~~
).4: tu!lr b&ck ~'idth min.u.,..a Scm; .,q1W"C'.p
_ 10 OD lit< hnt' from 0 Mn T 10
10'
1--4 .... 1M mc",Utt'nk'nl 0 3. ~u ..~ II~ ~II qUArl~f bust mmus "an. tqlUt'C' do.--ft to 12 on
0--.5 one fiOh ItI< measurement 0 4. square ;acr\)ol." tM ... t1Ihnc. 1.100 (he bod) rl~ hne.
0-6 up.
one ~Iklh nl'C). stzc; 0;(11111'': Ilr';lVo In Ilrln'~)'t: curve, from 10 Ihtl)uJ,h 9 to II
6--, I .5 C1'n + d r.IW in eeek c:ut\ e 1-1-1 qUoItll'r tneasurement I 2, JQU.t~ JIoC."'fO"-'\ In I~
.l-8 1uIj( bML "tdth mlnu,0 ~lnl, "Iu"", up to" ISo-I' 0 ~(,In
,.nd 10 1z..17 llnl 1"41" In ~MU"".am
1.... 11 lem ,..,,, 1 II 1-11 6em. ".tn
161M
J....Z 4;1'""'"' ~.I mlnu, I ~..m. "IU.1ft'dorr.a
lJo" It\( .'I\llIn(', 14on the bod)' rl~(llln('
hI.' DD- In botl'" k$. l."lIt''" ItQ~16 •• OIlC.. ,vd, 0 4"m
l.oY.c:r btllloin \'U"'I: rmm I' III U 4icm bek.,. roll'll.!
0t1M ID.rn,'C)( curve, from II Ihroulh 91012
1-15 '1W1n('f med'Ufl'nlCIU I 1; \4\'"~:tc:'fth\ 1(1I. Irunl
....., Jm 3--J9 lulr mC.I\\l.I\'_u,cnl, .. llrw"- lroDJ.c\L cun<.
._)....I$ "!(nn 0,.", WI ede i<;lm 1-21 ('nt s."t«nlh ~I mf..'uraD('ft1 phi) 0 (ca:
1-1' eee C1Jhthbust mt'asuttmenl pm 1aft. 'tlIIt1lMl' JQ""'"' .K'm\., \ .san to 21 ~Wlt'C' up laa to 12 k1tD
.;across J -Scm lQ 20 16-,'n_
1-21 squ"f('~ut 6(", fur gusll~tIlIt('~Jl>iD21 17 !l-l~ h;llf I"l!' measurement 16 12_
~. m b3t'k It:~;curve line 21 17l"'utwards O.Scm Orau In (R.nl Ir;K:curve line InYlludJ. 1.1Scm ;112)
I>nrtrr in. fU\Sd CUf'C, eerve line 20 21 IOv.--atd$O,~ca 2.-24 rnea)Ur('nl~nl 2-20~ "quoin: but 'em to 2$
._
TDCc' o(f flbw:\ D~ ~ CI,H''C.''d lme from 21 CO~
poctUc:m
~ll one
.b(w.~2. Add 1nn to lhe ilIk 19-~
....--
t;kn-
., 5
(8 ....
..-
:;;....----.-
--
iii
• N
•
ft
"•
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... .., . .......;_" ...._ :
:0: .. •
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lt~
tI <>
:~
. of "
- 2
i'\ IM". ~.
e
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I:Clnt' 0 b,l.;lt. t~or" toN
- .. ~
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Q)
~
._E
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..
0.
0
!'II
(I)~
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s:
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eft tOld
'"I
.tl
....
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GO
~
-- -
N '!'!t ~
•
E
.§
.. -
~
(I)
itI
CIlIfW4J wet .rod f,..."
~ • e ~ ~
163
Grading Measuring
four sizes
-- -
, , I
I' ..uere ,radin, iJ 11tcchnt(ltI( \I$(d re "prodUCt' lit. one Clln undcl"(llIl1d 111:\\'lutlhud$ quk'll) The
pattern In other $;Zd,. JI must be dooc accun ..tc.l}~ mC'lhod used «)r findlug II point by mGiSunDj!
sm~1I errors unnQIlt.'\'d "'h~11one ~j_ui1 SCldcd to, sho",n abo\-e. frol'n b.'ti(
horilonHilly ,JII!'tI\~rlit:~III)'
become diff)(uities "hen m(ll\), !iJ.C$ are required An PQinl I UletlSUrehQI'i7.()ru~Urrc:quind m~urcmcnt
KCUulc mrthod i.s 10 drn" the 5millicst size, gnde the ~tilrkpoint 2:. square across. ~lc:;uun:- n:f1JGtlI)
bf!l."":Sisiu.. then stop 00' the sixes bct..~..een on lines ~ulrro measurementpo!nt 3. Ora", !lliM Ibrough
df':l\\"lllhmuGh ibe busic pcims (sec diaSl'3m). the point....J and J fOT n ~~(Un' line Poml$.(Ot
Grading machines and C()lhpUICC'S ;an: a\"'3ibblc. but funbcr grading can be made aJon» lh"Dtine.
it is necessary for students 10 understand ~ pnncipk The-meibcds .shl)\\'ndernousrsategrading. ~ b3sit-
of padins p:tllem!l Althaush Itl!l.llufaClurrrsh3R J'I'I-llrm cee SIU: up. Fhe linC'$througb tbe b:tsic pomls
IMiI own gr;win_g S)".SICll1ll. once the principk is ~mt can be u~ 10 cOlltinue t:rllding into furtbtt sUd.
Grading One Size Up - Form Cutting (5 em intervals: size chart page 12)
Skirt for dr ... block
..-,,
Bodice ,
-- --- _ .... '"
-"-- -
........
~
block
~.f ,/ ~ ,
_. .... ---_
';;;' ..
"I..
_ -
...
,~
~-...- ----
;._-
. _~,
...
.. _--._ ..
..
_-----. __-,'.,
~ . __-.-.--;.i - - -~
- - .. - ... - - -_
.. I ,
~ ,
_. ,---...
'1"'.-. _,
_ .... -_ .. -
.;It _.. •
"~roat
12 me01SUn' 3 mm her.
13 I" IS
me.."-urt'lilun 110r. IOmm ven,
16 mU'Ufe 1mm hllr.• 5 rum vert.
17 measure 12_S1nm ven,
18 mu,5Urt 1mm her, 12.$1111'11
19 mc.. ,ure 1ml'. h6r.
\~rI
-- ..... -- ... -- ... --~
~1
TliliionodSkirt Block
82C't
t me:tsu~ 3mm bor.
1 J ~ me:asure 3mm bor, "rom vert.
567 mQ'UI'r llnm hor. $11'11'11 vert,
S tm'Ol$U~ 3mm hor. Il.S"un vert
9 mt1l~urc11.,Srnnl vert ..... -;,.t .. _ .. - - ...
10 mc .. ,ure 7mn' her; IJ.5ulIn vcrl
1I mC'a'u~1mm hilI'.
fron,
12 mcuufC Jmm hor;
IJ I" I~ n't41,urt: 31111Qhor, 3nlll' ven.
16 mCDUI\' Jmm hor; 12.51110' \crl
17 masurc' IUmm vert.
18 m~~ure 7m", hOI', 13.5nll1' vcrl
19 mc~surc'imm hor, - I
textilestudycenter.com
166
"R
c_--
--_
"
I J'
-',
.....f.~)1-_ ----
~_._._.4 ---- ;:,I
.--- -_ .... ------"fl'
'c1';,,----
, ,, - . --_ --------
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?/
-
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- ,, --------------------~,
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- -
M I
N
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,
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, 1 I
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",:
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,
I
,
I
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r
.;::.::-- -
'tbt- <:t~ 'Iailored 'l'ru\I.\tf UI(K'k "roflt
illicit; 16 n't';:t,ul't' 1111nl hut, 4111m \t'rt.
I measure 7mnl bor; ).5n1ln vert, 171819 measure ',urn hor.
ll.a measure 1mnl hut. I nun vert. 10 measure 7nll11 her, S.Snlm vert,
567 measuee 1mnl hot. ".5nun 'crt. 11 mt':a"ul'C' 4 nun her; 8.5 mm \"('n.
S measure ?rom ho-r. 91)1111 "crt. 21 measure I,S1l1l11 hoI'. Jmm vert,
9 measure -tmm hor; 9nuo Vert. II 24 measure J nun her, 2.S mm vert,
10 me:wcre 1.5 rum hor. 3Ull11ven. 15 measure t.Smm hor. Smm vert,
II 12 mc;lL.~urc'lmm hor, 2.S mrn vert, 26 measure 7n~'n her;
13 mc:-.tSun: l.5mm hot. jmm vert, 27 measure 'mnl hor. "mm vert.
l" measure 9mm vert.
I~ tn.o»ure 4 mm hot. 3.SU1111vert,
167
Grading One Size UII - FIliI
CUlling
ORADIl'-G FOR SMALl•• MEOIUM.
lAR()~ Al'-D I:X'I R,\ lAII(I€ SitiNG
Rc(c1' 10 both C'r Ihe '11..4' (h'lrl~ fin 1),1&(12 j
Gnldinl SJlC'!o- \'lIln"r ...
lun (~lIrtllt'nl...
t
Sm.II. ~ltI. ~1\-dhutl.11-104. 1...llt),lt. 16--18. ,_ J •
Xu,... _lU-ll.
The me-A.lUIt'1ncnl.,for (l.1'Jdil\~c'II('ul"ti(tlt$
shook! be u~ fron) Iht :.htMtftli\'( sicc$ in Ih~
Scm me: chart.j.e, 10. 14. IS. 22 for each of the-
llbo\~\.'Ode$.
•
CncUa: Sacs - Hi:;:h Strc('1 Fasbiou
Sm.aU =- :I.pprox. 8-10. ro,'looiunl=- 12. Ln.r!!e =-
.p~. 1... 16, XI.Attt =- tlp"roX. IS.
~tan)' PnDC'"otsin this group are :oiud In Ihis ·• •
W"ol)'. TIns ,"'Cs a 6('m gr..dc beiwecu the bust
~ild.E.x..lmpb Of IhiS t)'f'I'C! (If ~mdin& JI~ ·•
sho--n on 1Mncxll\\o Jl~lg(.~
..·s
-
,-.'_ ....-'...~....... ..... ..
n:ltt .tId Fronl ••• 0 •
,
1 mc.l\UR 6 nlm 1101
1 mr;uUft: 6mm hOt. ;!,SlIlnl ven.
l mQjure S.S nun hot. Atum v('r.
J mea.wfl> 2mln hOf 9.$nll'1 vlolft
~6 mc...sure ISIIUh\'\!rl,
.
.. :..
, mc-oUUR.a n'm hor. IS mm vert :~
~
B
I)
mC'olSUfC .. min hor
nk"4WI'C' J "~m hOf :
:. '
•
~'l' ,• ·
·• ·
t ~SUR' J nun bOt
2 tn(':lwn::' mm hOT, 611U)l vert,
:·
3 mcasun:-9mm vert.
.. 5 measure 7nlm hor, 61nm vert.
6 ~urr 9mln ,crt. •
·
7 mca5UR:' I mm hor. 6mnl vert. :
:
fbi Kimono Rioel.; •
I fn(";Uurt' 6 mm hot.
I ~~ 6 mm hot. l.S ram vert
.
I
l hor. ven •
tne1.Wrt" S,$n'ln
I "'m hot. 17.5nun ven
ISlum
·· ;';;'"·····1····
..·..•····.. ;:1
.. mt'"ol)Urc
~ mr,,'utr I.jnun hor. l,Snun ven. I• .
6 mQSU~ 15mn) vert , I
., mGl\UR:''' mm hot. I ~Inln vert. · ! !
8 _"SUIt.4 nun hur. ·•
•• !
., nK".uurr 3 min bcr. ·
•
~:-
c-.
J
." ,\.
11 ""\ ••,
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. ..... .......
•
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1
,•
.,
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' .. . .
......-- .....--
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......
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E
E
<>0»
c c
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169
Part Three: Size and Fit
13 DRAFTING BLOCKS AND
FITTING FOR INDIVIDUAL
FIGURES
I)mf'lln, block, (or IU' Individual fi~Uft:1\:. \In,ptC' COOPYthe lij~('c:h.lrI1hQ" n bel" ..... 1-.11tn 1M
qpcnlltOn UK Ihe I"~tfu('t()n\I\'f tue b~l~ic~ocL~ mtaloUrtm(,U ...I(hll\\'U.n normal I),,,,, (rom IhI: ~U'x
('b"plC'r I). but U~ IlCt:'''n:tI '"l.".lll'un:n1\~nIJIn'\t('~d or
chan on l)ag_cII. For" bU~IIIILe IO),Scm UlC
or tbe bMK' !>I/~ Chl'f' IhOSt rtquil'l!~ (.1r II ~iJ:~ 20, ...\11 fn<.t.)utnn(nl.) )ho\\'n
r."e the bU.)1 nlCIlSUlc,ncill. Unle..~ du, ,n bCiI\')' t)'J)C are Ih(l~c Iliken from the' indJ\ tdWlI
measurement is \'tlY llirge in proportion 10 the: rt'Sl figure and then written on the ch:trt.
or the- fi~uf't.the hu;;, nlC:'~lI(cnlcnl ..h:tcrolin~ the I, 1.!l1J _g01)l.1WC:il to Ij~1
the ~UlndllnJ me.a~U~I'MnI-'l
dn..rung$lIe. bampk bulll l(Mern =' ~uc:2:0. "'l1h(' ,sidl; 10 «lInpafC 'hem If there .. ee __Jdt
"01,", Var II 'C'l') largl: bu)' or lor It 'd()l,\age( difl'eff"nCC§.the figure lIhoulll be ftmea.sumi al Ih(':SC
hl,lmp' ~ek set' ~~<:118 bcJOI'¢be~inning points .and eh«l'td 10 $01."'( if it ls h, fdCt much \\'ider
Ib( dr.afr cr nAtro'\\tr rban :1ftoffllullisuN'.
CJ.lr.&kntth
1.9.BOI)\ RiSE 32.5 30.8 Jongu bod} f1$C'
lO.. SLE£\CE LE..~Gll-1 61S 60.5 IMtcr arm
Taking Measurements
for C'~ImI-uid"nce ,I"" ,bo f\)Ul)\\'Ull,lln,lr\l(11"n~ ..nd l 11I11i. nlC'II\lItc tho ~id~'1 pan o( 1he:hipS
Ib( d"'V.t"' Olllw)lIllC "!'Pro). 21 eru (r(un Iht: \v;II~thn~ I-or h1p$ Ih:al "Iff""
I 8us. nl"'-"U", the fillurcIQI Ill" f\III~I poU\t 0( fn>m SI""dcll'd n\~"!'lIfCIlICIU(hi'" Scm btlt'f Ih.ln
1M Me(t. do nOI ilUO\\' rhc 11111010nail "I the b.tc:l. butt) see r"11t;1: 180 li~, dl~lI!i blO(k"
1 \\_1", lak( tltll. '"I!.ll.lJ\l",nll:nlfound tht _"'\I~ .. 1)11('1(\"Ichll •• nlc.I\Uft Ih.c b...-c-l. .·,dlh ISnn
ma t.c SUR!,I I~ 4"Olnfortllbic. down (ron) the neek bone III Ihe eemre b.u.:1... ~1C"..uurc
After laklng the ,,';willtmeasurement tie a ~lr'RIfinnl) (rom 3nnsc~·c 10 nrmscye,
"-'W'd tbe "",j"'l: Ihi, 3111)\Vlllhc \Crlj,c-dl nlC.l$un:tnC'nl~
to be laken act"ur.alcly.
171
5 Chrq • mtaji.U",
I.Jo-n (rom Ihe nccl! (loint .11the
the chc:.1 7(m
/T, ..,
ftftlrr (mnl (~rm~C' to :,rnlsc)"e),
, : \
6 Should....... mea)"f'C (ronl tilt
neck 10 1he shouldcr bone,
/ , "'\
,, I
\ ,
7 'f('1t St/t ,ntCUltur"Cthe bl'~c
or neck lou<hln, f«lIl' colhlr hone,
SO.,.. ,3111ndard IIIClllllltCI'n\,1tll. +, ,
9 rap Attn,
1he:lIrnl n100l:1h~ •
;-•,
bent. tnQ~ure the'bl~J~i.
to \\ mi..
m('O\sutanl'nl
II An"k..
I..ke the "'rilll
\\ilh sJiEht C.I~
mellsure Ilto\ll'Id Ihl!
r• I
, ,•
r-,
,
I
I
/'.
I
r
,
. ., . •
I
:lDkk O\Tr ankle bone, •
11 HJr." Anklt •.• measure nrouad ,
k1just 4bcn--e the 'lI'Iklc. •,
lJ ,;\::J~ 10 \\'"b.1 , •• measure Ircm
w nret.:bone at the centre back It)
,be: .-rinG licodaround tbc \\~i$l.
( .. •,I
. 2. .
I~ Froal SbouIdC"r10 \\'lIist , , • •
tnel:SOn:'(rom the centre or
the fmnt •
"
shC'lukkt O\'C:t the hl,l~1polllll~ waut ,
~
IS ;\rm'<')'t'
m~n:mC'nl
Il\1,ch. , ' ~Ulndllrd ~ • ,
-.-
16 4itlrt lA"ft'!:Ih,. nlCllllurc ~h~
'!ok,n &tat::1hfrom the tolrh'i 111the
*..,\1 dO'l''h 10 the required hem \
kn,lh
'Ole' \t(~'lurc froln the WlnSII"
Root .., the tgc&: .Ind from 10che-.:k
lhat'hor ~bm'C or
the I1gul'Cis even. " [) \
17 \\aisl lu I·lip. standard
tne3WtenlC'nl
18 '\·.~I to Floor, • , mc~l.Surcfrcrn
"llUIIO door at the centre back,
19 Bod~ Rise. .jhe ~ubjC('t $ll()uld
sit OR a hotrd chitlr. Take the
rnc:;uurc:olenl at the side from the
\QW 10 the chair. "
20 S,"",C' ~Ib •• , pllu."Clile h:Uld
on hip !iO ,h.;l1 lbc ann IS.belli.
~1G\S1Itt"(rum WCliboukler bone ever -~-~-~~
the ('Ibcn\ 10 the \\'rit:tbolle above Ihe
bilk finger- ,• "
"",Ilsi or Indl\ldufll mC'lIl'"r(ml!nr ..
jhoukl bt COlK"fuUychecked 1I1I1Ih)\1
Ih"('II" o( JIJlnd.llrdIne.1~\ll'tnICnl"
lind lin)' ,";at dnloili{ln I\~~outltl.'d
(or 1lIc blo.:k" coin then be tlt'lIrt~"t!
I'
11 r: ...
~ r I-
ri-' 1\
Ul,nf.tb( pc!NOn·.INOIVII')UAI ..
masu~m(ntS. If 3 I'lSUr'C lilult Is \c,')'
\ I
pecnoueeed consult tbe (\)1I0,",'UI8
~""lOn Glnd"d".pt lhl' block before
maklD! lM IOIJc..
textilestudycenter.com
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•
.... J
I \1.I"\llk .. III"C" .. en "" .... UI. up 'hC'
1011c-Io ur
I. I he ,,;\u·Pfn.'(drrt.' blot ...".It1 Ih(
lIlt,.I,I'n .'('t\(
Z. I ht: tilll(tlC'd "k.,t
bkxk Cru'C' 71',
~, "Itt: \:11I~"u:'OldonO ,mustr bkKl.
...., 1,\11,( 98)
. ,_
underu'ln 10 'nllke the- 61110, of the'
",hIIUldt:r\ (Il,ier dnrr. It hrk (rom
lit" \lnde'loIrnl seam 10 lhe- bu,,1 ,,",unc
('ulltlurI, ,hi' lmeClose .. ~klN'
d,"I: Ihl\ wtll "f'IC'I' tbe .... U1kknlr.
d.. rt \h"flC'n lhe d.ar1 b) ! $CM • thf
The tailored skirt block Classic tailored
trouser block
bu'l Pl"nl
( "I up lhe:
I\,kll <10mILtfC- to
"*~'* 0( tk tlU1
tQM .. lhot
,
I twn" ,oln to ~upfIOInl
I
\ 1'111 I'AILOKlcD SKIRT BLOCK
I'o( ....:p;lr~le'''Ilts at)( :&llKhoJ co
•
.~
budlCC' I he , ..dol'1:d ikin pl'O\1dcs •
:: , .... ~
beth,r Iii. ,L"It ~1\TSmore stupms 10
I.U: bUIIOI.'L... ltl.\ usd'uJ to h3\~a
-
•
•, Jt the side JC'~"'_ Add 1.5cm fbft' 10
,
II \, I
the ,KJc '\('oIim ~I lhe ...
lOin 10 hip poInt
01 tk "'-an.
\
,,
I L
C'I ,\~\I< T\llORFD TIIOl ~FR
I
1
~
,
I I
11,0(1<.
1)(Ilftthe
(ll,ll)." ')".
10:1
.. ,,-.: IAIk-red
I~ blol.L
I
" II ('\I' tl!.llthehl«", a\ ~~n In
dhIMtllIll'l, I"I~I,<,1m "11"",,n.:c ~(
• I $1:111 (110~ .. ru 1Il1~ ..eee a' nee.. or
,•
I
"l1li\\
heln ~.r ,",rl. tNu~n ilnd ~(,.~
• 1'IIt:k hllX' II.)".illot 0( In:MI_y('~
• J and '''It I
173
Pattern Aherlllions for Fit
1 Balance
II Ik bIocl. h41ihttn d'o,'ll"IIO
J!It""".1\&I mr."urcn'C'nl, It 14111 Id~ ",0\
• ~'" it ...atu Ibc(~.re \fWdal
lPft' (.ulb. ~Imc\ 11tt)art
~I .md (be N«L ,,'" be .IIJ.aptC'd
_~~ &Jw wile .e m"dc ur onen the)"
"" nClI 10,"", unllllhC' 1f111~I" seen on
1M fiB-lire. The f.lull" tu't Itu,:n IItarktd
... 61ttn:c.wtgil' .lull tile hlOtk t" Upright figure
rorlUl«!
I 110"-
n..r reno- ban" fillN moukl "Ilind J
dl'-'JI"~A-"; ff(tm the- Ililet10atto.•
fCt'"IJ "1C'a ~ht,h"Ukf turn \~.)
'ole ..O) oM ~US''-1.111, Stud) the "we l:..:..=IStoopingfigure
~;lm. ihhouah the I~r~~'nIna) hQ\C'
lin 1*\"C'r.~fitl,ulVhel lillll,,,( ""IY c.-.IU'\4:
tbe lode 10 ,;~ In, Iud difl:ltlll ihe ~idc:
w.am ~ du,r.m """I)\IIC.
,_ '1..v.un Ih., II " Iht pD"lurr (~
v( IIIIt ~ lUI" aU\lnllhc'
lrJ
dnaoruoo .ad 00l ,he h,lI'"
tr
JM'Otll~
m.tUI~a
c.,
I:lr~bu,t. :.IS(htS
different
L ....... 'i::w"r
~nlw)
- --_
.......
CUl across front bkx"1r. .u bultt nnd •
I
-- - -
daN.. op:2I aMOunl ntt'dN 10 brine
r".1 _-.sttmc- cto.....10 .I_' l."OfftC'I
The ~her.ll('I.n
pcl!Jolttoa m~) be n~cd
/ ••
a' chht Of'lIu"l' """t)
Trace round Ihe: • ..._.
-""!
ne- )h._ Side bu~,d,l'l \~III",illeRlIO •
tb.la aM j~~ SC,.Jm(llRl IIr (qlud l(nSlh •
••
.,...,.."fl••,.
(lit iIC"IO\.' the- (l'(Ift' blOl" ~ti('(plalned
.ta.l"ic. Cll'C"riap (he- &mOunt ,~ be
'~rd Tr;trr."'C' rMind 1M "" ,h ... pe
fbe '* bIbc ct.r, ",II ha:"m~,ntdlkf
·
.-
•,
-....-
-
\0 lbal lbe "ad( -"C.lm\I"~ (\f (quill ,
kn,l,h
.l ..•
•
J "
,,
~t
l •
" \. -,
textilestudycenter.com
174
SI.~I'VES ME,\SURE~Ia-,
2 3 I'ROIlI.I'MS
-- l sleeve.
~1(l1t" If top arm ont) is too light.
narrow the side seams to ~nSl,,(ter
j aheml ion,
, , 2 Largearm
,
,
.....
. , '.
i , . \
I
3 Slimarm
,•
,
" "
.. -.:..
...... .....
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176
,,~( KI 1" r~ HGURE PROBLF\l\
6 \' Ide''«"flH DCCl_ .......100
r..r 11_01)(tt,m Ilw a:a11lf1l8td1llDe
MlliK 'he b.K\ ..n,J froe. ft«th.. of
bI",.. '" '~UlrN
I~ l'rn,,,hlt'llltiNt" ~houJd""
WlUnlenl (lull" .1~rOS~the: proal1OC1l1Irol1'
,h('luld~rhon~
....
~1.1"llIl'nl"")( IU n«t polDI .a.'\
tJklJ1Iln,. ore-a n:qUlmJ L4C
I.
R.I.... h<.w .. r r..... ~ tIqIol).
177
Necklines- figure problems
6 Wide neckline 7 Tight neckline
NO' Itl)lIl
"'"
."" ....
Shoulders - figure problems
10 Square shoulders 11 Sloping shoulders
14 1I01)1{~ F1GI.RE
15 I'Ronl ~'lS
"(t\' ma""~t\ sJ:to.Id bt
,"-'Ofm;t .. , tM h&oct _.a~dnflCd
to Ind" 1'11 ....1~l\. The
... Ill h.J\~to bt ..."..'IN
~Iltrtll'l
un the dmi bk>d rt .. .aJJl Ma
lIlO"~r, f'(lm the- SI.. ndanJ
I 15 lA. ~~ •. 6bncQpoa
norm,,1bust __ omd paJh .. Qn
point )1 ..,1 ~npoiDl at 10.'(',
Ie\(t R'~UlmJaad red.". 4brt eo
16 Ihl.) pomt.
""I"'"
1I001(L Mf \SL RF\lF' T
1'N,t)nt.f ~IS
,It 1..,1C«' UU'\t fa"rK' ~II~
b\!'ll'hf.aml
lu:r~~\_~ n~ UJ'111
~\lIIU\!fronl If 6.u~" II b.tuc:
":lIlIltlrl '1/r (\~J't r""
LlI.rJ< bl.l\l.
thr:...... 1,;('
i.1(l1(\ " "-'" .mollle,.
Illt(tlIill)n Sl.ash bodaor ~"l'r1tcaU)
1l1l~horvunt.alt)". opca thr
amount n:q1iU1'C"lil TIau • ..u
(nt."c but. ADd .-ant cbru.
179
Bodice - figure problems
14 High bust 15 Low bust
,
•
, 01" I
."'"
•
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SKIRTS - "ROUSERS OR"-"5 BLOCKS
p-
\\ "'fOC ""(j<t-1O.,.,
I MEASURF.M~NT PROBLEMS
'''~ and \\,;11,1 sizes 5hould be ceerect ., 1M)
~It" drllnt.!d In il1dividllal meltSUmTlltftl;,"'"'('Pi
o."
""' the stendard hlp l)lC,"l.Ircmcnl,. and ......_I.~1
.""plng Oil "II: tJ,~·jo"
bl(I\:" used (or d'fi~ and
I ! jllcl;clS.
20
I 19 l)""~ IlIcK:Io:OI
"~II_I'
.."
j Dllrl.1lldJu$1 t.!;lrl,. 10 me ..:turcft.lC_OI~
tllU.. .-mo'.nt......
(j!(I\lil1!d
;
'
,..,", -- requncd keeping (he ,haplnl even.
Illp' /(u~l'r (II' ,llllllller Ilttut jrl)nJr.,n/ cut up 1be
limeseam of the dre), block. ~..ork
difference between your hip$ and tbe- slllDdard
0101' the
- - 21 20
pull
t",,::e
'H,'roSS
Iluuockll Ot .\bdon~ ., "ptnle'n'I'
the I1gurc. drill ~tthe crutch m
tmllloC-r.., ur.I ~klr' heln will rl)C at eeeee boIc:k
or ccutee r'Olll. Ahhtlll£h hip i:i.lC' it: co(r~' III<'
g:arnlt'nl may dbten bttau'f( Ih< ,h:lPt' of ,be
n,ure 110'UIC,'I)JI,
j-\dd ,~uil\.'tllenlllh to thl:' ,,,<ntre blK-l. or centre
Measurement problems
19 The dress blocks 20 Large buttocks or abdomen
~ VNI!.:.I.,p ~
, (' ~
,./
~
..
"
,_ -....
- 1- --- -- - - Extra amounts
...............,-r-1
•,
,.
,
,- .... ..... -{..,
- --
-
-'
... ,,,
, ',,
,-~,,
,, ,,
I ",.:.
- -- -
I....'
.....1
,
,, ,, Skirts and trousers - figure problems
,, , .---.r--
, ,
21 Thigh bulge
•,
I
r
I
,,, ,
•,
,
,
,,,
\
, , •,
, I
-
.....
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~r "...
~
V'
,\NO JI\CKETS
I.)I'\!$~ nnd ):u:kct$ ..,thout
tIC Ihl: v,llt'ilhnc
II scam
$(ln1CfU'\cs' f\"CIUI(C a
, , , :<pcti:11Jlhcrati()Q
a"uft:
1'1u\ I~ .. he'll the
ba(l.. or Qlft\C'NI)
-, ,,
hll\ :1'""II)
-, -, 1\ lonw bou:llo;flllh In I~ eemre al'(I
, ,
or the body ~t\\ccn buMaad 1'1I~
,, ,, S~"YIJIt('k Thedrc~'or JKL-tl~dl
,
,, I
, , ,, ~\vinghUD the b~(" of the 6pf"C.
~---- , - -- ,, •
,
-- 1 ,• -- - ,
,
(l)frri'I"'1I1 ~1('~urcrront aDdtuck
leni,thtl 10the Roor 10 "oJ OUIbo"
, ,, , much 'he b::lcLmaul be ta.scd CUI
,, the puuem across the ,,1liSt.li.M and
""" ,
,,
,, .... \
overlap the amOUD110 be rnno\'Od.
Draw t1 \~I'li".al tine on ~ new. piece
of paper; place 1.'1«" and b<m of
:dlcrctI panem lO thts-lme. "Iraee
tl)und p.lllcm. R.t;,;h:.fIt't~ side-
~~:1I1lthe same ;lInount Ih;al iJ ;lidded
I'
'y;J"
I'
\ \ " by the distoftlon lit the- eeetre rock
- --
•,
, --
1
1
•
- -
I,.."
-i~----r---- 1
amount that O\'\:rlaps t.h<. cesare
back seam,
•
.' =.J I
.' J
THE 8U)("K l'ArrFRN
\\'hnllittlfl' the tollc. pin the Ilhernl.ani thaI are A block pauern ~h4)uld be m:lll~ in c;a,d Of ~tron¥
rcqUIR'd 'ti1rk on liI(l h)llt lin)' In1otrU\!tion) >ou n«d; hi""'" ~"'J'IC'
iai II \\'111be uS(d man) limes. Some
tm.rl. ",Ih .. !"'nCll.N(lIt$ 01' bil$ of p.lp.:r ,,~on~ <tudrnl~ ",~rcr
bloc)" ".II(('rn$ ~ut out 10 ~rd)o() that
ml~L'KI LhC') can trace round lhcm; olhC:r) pf't(ef In h;;n-e them
Ant'1' r;ull1g the toile "II the IIhCrtllfon) mlljl be' d~" n on ,I (lkeC of P:1,~f 10 .....11«1'the OIl,lIne (»111)
made to lhe block pauem. l.:or "cr)' dlni('uh a separate sheet underneath.
.;KIJGSUncnt!t. alter the block. alter me lolle lind re-fit
10 cOSUtt' Ib'lt it OtS pcr(('(lly.
183
\\'bm compulC't ••ndccl dcsillil (C,'AU) v..t.._, fir.., 10:' complul)': Ihey cnn IX'd~n~ under lk
bUbhj.hC'd In cWllung InllllUn,cnlrc. h ~,It\\oct') (0110"in, ht"ldll'~:
c:-cptfttt\'C lind could Ihc~rol'" only be bou,ht b) • OC'Iil;o nud ~11U'kcliIlD
La.'F con\r;ani"- The r'lli pr(.'u."t.;sfmln dtSl,n 10 • P,oducllol\ 01\11\~hln;Jg\!ttlc"1
m.nvf.ac1unis u~u~lI)'au Inv~tln~rum.rdeb) :. • Pilltel'n Creation 'Ind ~1udlfl<.tl)()n
m:;uw(:acturcr ,,110 rnnkes t1 PlIflicuhlr type:'or ,annen1 • SiZingand ~1adc·lu·l\tl':lsu~
In brge qUIIJUhtn.. J 1~w.·t\4:r.:cnHIIi (on1p.;ln~ C.,Jn PIlUcrn Or;uJlng
btncfil from po.tueu'ar CICIU¢IIISor C,,\ D. The • U.)' 1)1;lnning lint.! ~1:lrkf;t·tIot3klnl:
ddl'c('("ru pflX't'S.SCS of CAD C;IO be uf g~allld\;wQ~C
•
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Production Data Management
---
- ---. -
..., ..
....
-- --- -
l·~ m,," " 1·1)~1~»H:nl~how1n
ecesvlcw, n'C"~u",mcnl dllt~lind.
ill)
construction sheet.
..
...
187
Pattern Creation lind Modification
'-_
------
AI~"Ncl))dl1l'IMg
NOW IIoOW ttl. ~
ere c:cJIOCt.heft
,,","plirod WI'"
~.
ItIcJ pan.m
, ..
...
:\y
~
(oppo$lle pooe),
i
i
Itonl .lcHIve
-
•
I
,_____----<l •
j
A t~hni"'I)1 dl\lWin,,-.Int,l the: dC'\"dopmC'fttor the: p.lu~rfl on the eonlplJ1Cr
Note bow the proportions of t.bc p;lttem retatC' 10 the dmwmg.
textilestudycenter.com
188
--.~
~~'~'/('. GC'rber'~1':11Ienl
Onytopmenl S)'!itC'm.
Pattem dC'\'ClopnlC'IUt,nd
mod,(QI.ons.
,,'Ilulflus (200 I)
Compul("r..aided
tn(lk design C:~3Ied
in ~J/J/~ ~1r3.
j\'uuliht, (200 I J
mo6clScd on the slltnd
usan. digitally pnuted
rotbnc produced "'Ih
Siort A'~'bcT
I«hnoklg)'.
8",1. there it a temptation 10 Illodif)' pn:\'iOUl Styles. to be dismissed frorn (hi:! or :11'1)'other ..rn of pattC'm
The m«'T pact' of the desig.n cycle gives Hule Span' culling. It can be USI."das a pan or
un) o( the
for inncn'ali\Y st)'ling. II is not only the creatlon of mcthods or
pauern dewlopmeru.
lhe dC'iip. but Ihe lIolltcint;, (o~ljna. new prodU(llOn The possibilities of intcsrolina f,lbrt( des.en InlO
proc:'l'du~ and re-toolin, or machinery '" hK'h pattern IIhllPC (.111 be I't'lllilCd b) u$ln, dl, .....1ponllna.
lII«ompancs 101:111), new concepts. ~I()~t or the ~1CbIof thi~ fonu of "Jintina h:~ been uloC'd(or thc
J) ,teM) ~I G"pauern I'Ilodillt:lllion or the: qulltk lL.lnlpli1l8 or II-:Itlucnt.~ by c:r~,lttnl'hon Itnlll\):
d('\'Ctopmcnt of ba!IJc \Iyle, (f(UI1bloc .... or pn:\IOU, of fabrtC or b)' pll~tins fabric nua,,,'1 ,nto ptmtnt
Plllern", 11000(\.:r. Ihe a;cncralioll of il,nQ\':Jtl\C p;tl1crn ",hapc, 11000'C\ltf, n (C\lo lIc"lIln(1) arc (ft'iliins
(.uhlOn dn.lgn of comple" cut or Iabnc dfllf)C'~.utbe ~' concepts or 21) 1(, 30 d~jiRn. KII\hC'rinc
:lch~~ (:arbeuer by nuuuud nlcthexl" \\h(R: Iht' 3D TO\\n~nd uses the drape manlpulatlcn aunbutes of
form 0( ItI(: "hnpe: call be mOllified during the pa.ltCtn thc t«hnoIOj;)' 10 develop lind ch"n,e Ihl('pont thirutl:
dc\-dopmcnl PfOl"CSS. Ilut. the computer docs not ha\'C' Ik plVH'C'SSof g<lr'''t'",lleJiglt.
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.•
•
v v
.._
bach.Il. t2AnClI. back.y. '2
fUllY 111111'10blOek Gaty fllt."O blocil.
193
GR \O~ Rl LE LIBRARIES
\ ,t....-cd"'lie.. lhot ,r.idt- points. \\he'n Itt< fI'*bc', I"
,*, ..
IIIhrilt'} i( C'Ompilntor numhotR"d11"*
" .. _--
l:O.I.6"IiiI. , ...... ~
......
" I
~ .. -
D;:g
-
sar. "a. M4 ..... x~
,- ..~.
',-:I
-- -
"•
• ••
••
,
- .. -
t:.'~mpln. of the M."'n."CIl displays of the Input or \VCj .tad grade rules.
B) "".'njj.'~hIntif (iflfh'r T.>r-hllllfl}Jl)'
C!4"_
/
0
(!J
8
'(.i) ~
-
€
e
e
I
A nllt,.kcr-mukln, <W)Ov.;ar"C:'
progrllm screen dl~phlY,
fJJ' P4·f",/.II/I~ 11(Ul.tl,ll I-ulfn,,.,
_ ... _.,._._
u.comeeree ;tulOmllltc
nlnrki.':r·nulklng
l'h(JI('j:fOpl. It)· JIC'"nkf,qn ('/
u\\)wr h"llnUff
If II c.leulalOf I~ nfU ..v.. ill1ble (or \\'urlr.l". OUI HI ST. WAIST 1\ Nil 1111' ,en"
'1'It: follo'o\,illlf, table \:JI1 be- u~
(,....C'lIon;a1Plrl,
tabk CO\-cnm(l~1 of Ihe pcpulnr lIl)'(1". ("t,UI'ej re
rht
',I ',\
,, .., ,
C'Otu.mn~",.rLl-d \\ IIII an nst~(i~k11n:f:..Jt~llatcd10 60 3.8 S III U 30
one dcam~1piIlClC' J 61 3.8 S.I 10 1 IS.IS JO.5
1>2 3.9 S.2 IOJ IS.S )1
-
'<ECK SIZE (em) 63 39 5.! 10.5 1'.7~ JI~
.... • 5.3 10.1 16 31
", 'I 6S '.1 SA 10.8 16.15 .\2.$
66 •• 1 S.S II 16~ JJ
J.< ·0 6.8
61 ~.2 S.6 1t.l 16.15 ll.S
!5
J6
•••
.5
7
7.2
1>8
69
'.3 5.1
S.S
II.J
II.S
11
li.25
34
».5
'.3
31 '.6 7.~
10 4A 5.8 11.1 115 3l
JS .a.s 1.6
71 4.. 5.9 II.S 11.15 3S.S
39.1 '.9 1.8
n •• 5 6. 12 18 .16
oIQ..I 5.1 8.1
..
;11.6 73 4,6 61 )2.! Ill!- )6.$
5.1 S.3
.aZ' 54
5S
'.6
8.8
14
7S
•••
'.7
(0.1
•.3
12.3
11.S
IS5
18.15
)7
)75
..S cl.3 12_7 JS
.
olS.1. S.7 9 7. 19
71 48 (,.·1 12_3 19 ::!~ :IS..I
18 49 65 13 19.5 .19
'19 " (1.6 I)..! " 7S 1<1.5
CO'SrRI.CTINC • CI~CI.E 80 •. 7 1J.3 <0
..
S :!O
Sontc' p;lllctn\. use c:irclc~ II( ,I hll~c I'llr their II 5.1 fi.8 13.5 lOlS <OS
('On~ruaion. The:'ollo\\'1ngc"lcuhli1on .. ('IAn be mJldc Il 5.1 (~.8 1,\.7 lOS
.',
to obtaII'!the ,..diu) required to ~)I'I~ltU(1 Il \'1n:k. Xl S.2 tt ') IlK lOi~ 'IS
84 !.! 7 I' 11 '1
fhe ctmlmrc:rcrw:e t'r II circle ill the n't';J)un:m<:tll 85 S.J 7.1 1".2 21.lS
' '.3
..
around .. (;1I~lc. 86 SA 7.2 21.5 '3
rm.- f'lldIUSlS:t. hne from Usc centre of the cwcle to t.bc $7
IS
SA
S.S
I.J
I.•
14.S
101.1
21.1$
22
4JJ
OUIC't nile.
To c;ofUlftK1 a Circle the 1';IIJiu.!>
fnu~l be kn~n.
89 5.6 , .oJ 14.8 lUS ".5
90 S.6 7.S IS .,., S
Radius =: circumference: divided by 6.28. '5
91 S.7 7.6 IS.! 22.15- 'S,5
on 5.8 7.1 15.3 )3 -'6
\\';:,i ..,line ,nell$l,u~m('nli:s 6S<rn.a
\\'orIci~enmpl,
ciniC' is n:oqWred whose circumference is 68\,'111.
9)
1>1
S.8
5.9
1.8
7.8
IS.S
IS.7
lJ.!.S
1.)5 .,46.S
R.3dJUi= 6S + 6.:'8 10.8 = 9S 5.9 1.9 IS.. .!.l.iS '7.5
COa$IN(1 ;a Clte,le; r!ldiu$ IO.Scl'n. its ..iteum(ctcno: 96 6 8 16 24 48
"fit tIC 68cm. 97 6.1 8.1 16.2- !-.&,1S '&'5
9S 6.1 8.2 16.3 2.&5 49
-_ .... ,
99
100
101
4.1
6.J
6.3
S.)
8.3
8."
'.5
167
168
2".?S
15
1$.25
".5
~
!G.'
\
t02
...
ft.;) g.5
ti.6
11 2S ~ II
SU
,
tO~ 11.2 15.7'
\ UII •• S 8.1 17 \ 2' ~1
J{l!lllllrrn1
I
105
106 ••6.6 '.8
8.8
I7.S
11.1
16,1~
26.5
$2_~
5)
\ 107 6.1 89 17.8 26.7$ 1)5
\
I 10(1 6.8 9 18 17 ~
" .... - -" / 109
110
III
112
•. 8
.9
6.9
7
9.1
9.1
9J
9.3
18.2
IS.•I
IS.S
1~.1
11.2~
17..1
27.15
lS
54.S
5S
55';
56
textilestudycenter.com
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CHAPTER INDEX
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
I I Ill: IIASIC I)"U I Ell OOIJICI: 1I1,()C~S 4 SLFI'\'11 \\11'111 nAC''': S6/\~t 4R
lOOLSAl\tl eQUIPMENT FOR MAKING .s CLOSI IIT"I'INO SLEEVL 48
P\TTER"'S S 6 SIIORT SI,I'I.VE 4R
I'II)USTRIAL SI7.INO SYSTeMS 9 7 ~I ri ~I) SIIORT SI,EEVF 4$
STA",I)ARI) SODY MI:.ASIJIU;M~NrS 10 8 rADllED SIIOIJLI)EIIS 48
COI\S'TRUCiING OI.()C;KS n 9 SLEEVE WIl'U SLI(,II r "I.ARE .so
THE CUlSE I'ITTING BOI)ICE IILOCK 14 10 "EI{'~ I:Lt\I{EI) SLEEVE .so
rilE EASY HTTING BODICE BLOCK 16 II GATlIEREI) 11'1'1'0 A CU~F .so
THE TAILORED JACKET OLOCKS 18 I~ SLEEVE WITII FLARED SECiIOI\ .so
SHAPING THE BLOCKS 18 I} SLEEVE W., H MOCK CUFF so
THE CLASSIC COAT BLOCKS 10 I' BISlior SLEEVE se
TUE ONE· PIECE SLEEVE BLOCK 22 15 LANTERN SLlmVE .so
THE n\'().PIECE SLEEVE ULOCK 2" 16 PU~FSL£EVE 52
THE SI.EEVEI.ESS IILOCKS 26 17 GATHERED HEAD ;1
SHAPING THE WAIST' 27 18 DARTED HEAD 52
19 SEAMED HEAl)
TIlE DRESS BLOCKS 28
10 I~SE1' C/\I.) SI~I!.EVE ,_52.,
1 FRO)I BLOCK TO IWrl'ERN 21 Sl'RAI'I'I!O 116AD 52
FROM BLOCK TO IWI1'~RN :ro 22 RAISI~O SI!A~'1 ~2
SEAM ALLOWANC~S )2 II lOWERI;1) ARMSC"" 54
p,\mRN INSTRlJCTIOI'lS ~:l ~4 fASY l·rl1'INc, 'slIurr ARMSC't E 54
fo'l\ORIC OR;\I N \4 lS I)ROI'pel) SIiOULO~R wrru
L,\'yS ).I lOWERI,I) ,\RMSCY~ 54
26 ()ROI'I'(;I) SIIOU LD~R 56
J 8,\$1(' ,'0,\ I'I'A n{lNS Of rllt :7 I)ROI'PEI) SIIOUI,I)ER wrru PlH
BODICE BLOCKS Sl.EEVE S6
DAR nxo ...111·Ubl'I('E 16 :!8 EXTp.NI)eO SLal!VF ~6
I lOW CUT FRONTS 31 ;:<) ~lARED EXT~NI)ED SLEEVE 56
2 STAi'DARD aurrosso ~RON1' .l8 JO I!XThNDEO SL6I!V~ WITti YOKE 56
3 I)()UBLE URE,\$1't;O I'RON'r lS 31 HASIC R.t\(iLf\N SLf!eVE ss
4 ~lY FRONT 3S 32 FLARED RAGLAN SLEEVE sx
5 ASY)IMETRICAl FllON'r )S 33 DEEr' RACLM'I SLEEVE 58
6 SHIRT FRONT as ).I RAGLAN WITH SQUARE SHOULDER 58
7 BUST D..\RT '''' \'ERTIC-,\l S£.-,\~1S 40
8 BUST DART IN CURVED VERTICAL Tin: SIiAPEf) KIMONO BLOCKS
SEA)IS 40 KIMONO SLEEVES
9 Ilt;ST DART IN HORIZON-r,\l S£A~1S .;0 ,5 IIASIC KIMONO BLOCK 60
10 Bt'ST DM!T IN CIJRVIlO SE,\MS 40 36 CLOSE FITTING KIMONO BLOCK 61'
I I OL;STDART IN ,'UCKS 42 37 l:ASY 1~111·IN(.1KJ~10NO "LOCK 60
12 BUSTD... \ItT IN (i,\'l'lll~ItS 42 38 I)OlMAN SLEEVE 62
I) 8~ST DART IN PLE,\TS 42 )9 Sl-I,.\rt£l) SI~H~\IE 62
14 OATIII.RED nUST SI,,\M 44 40 SQUARE ARMSCYf 62
IS \\IRAI' OVI::.R I'RON',. 44 41 IIA'IWINO 6Z
I. tlRAI'F.I) ~RONT 44 42 KIMONO STYI.E WI I'fl VOKL .2
17 ('I.ASSIC" 1I1.0USE 46 43 CAl. SIITI:.VI: 1.4
44 CAl' sua. VI' WITII c;USSt r 64
• SLI::EV[ .\OAl"I'" !'IONS
I STR \ICH r SLEEV., 4S
45 CAli SLI!I::VI~\VITIII'i-\NEL
4~ fl,J\kl~O ('~AI'e
64
64
2 SHIRT SlEI·\,E 4$ 47 t-.1TEI) ('I\I'E 64
3 SEM I·HTTI!O scaeve <s 4S CUI'~S 66
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