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The top-down raglan design is of "sea ms" a re decreased to the neckline. From Continue increasing every other row until
comparatively recent origin in terms of the top-down, the sleeve/body stitches are the p iece is long/la rge enough to meet at
swea ter design. Raglan construction was increased to the underarms and then th e the underarms. The sleeves/front/back arc
created as a supplement to or replacement sleeves, front and back stitches separa ted separated at t his point. Some designers have
of the saddle shoulder sweater. See Suzanne and wo rked to the edgings as three separate the kn itter work the sleeves first so they are
Bryan's a rticle "Raglan Sleeved Sweaters tubes. worked down to the wrist and finished off.
from the Bottom Up" on page 46 for more Others instruct the knitter to work the body
d iscussion o n the history of this design. Con struct ion first and then the sleeves. In that instance,
The hallmark of the raglan is the diagonal A top-down raglan is essen tially a seamless the body is worked as a tube to the desired
shaping lines moving from the top of the rectangular yoke. Once the math for gauge length and finished . Regard less of which
neckline, to the underarm. Thus, the sleeve is complete, cast o n placing markers at is done first, some additional stitches may
top is in tegrated into the neckline. This the four points dividing the back/sleeve/ be cast on for the underarms to reach the
design eliminates the problem of excess fron t/sleeve (see Swatch 1) . The stitch before desired chest measu rement. The finishing
fabr ic under the arms which is frequently the p urple ma rker is the beginning of the on a top-down raglan can include a short
fo und in d rop sleeve sweaters or seams to fro nt neck. T he stitches between the p urple seam at the underarms if the sti tches fo r the
limit the wea rer's movement. (begi nn ing of round m arker) and the fi rst sleeve were not picked up from th e body
green marker are the ri gh t sleeve stitches. when started. Finish ing can also include
Com ponen ts The sti tches between the green m arkers the neckJ ine edging or a button band for a
A ragla n sweater incorporates the same are the back neck. The stitches between the cardigan if they were not worked as a part
components as other sweater designs second green ma rker and the blue marker of the ga rmen t.
- edgings, a body, sleeves and a neckline. are the left sleeve stitches. The stitch after
What sets this design apart is the method the blue marker is for the front neck. In Pros/Cons
of shaping the armhole. AJso, although it other words, the short sides of the rectangle Pros
can be worked in pieces and seamed, raglan are the sleeves, the long sides are the front For many knitters, one of the major
construction lends itself quite well to being and back. The "yoke" of the garment is advantages to working a top-down raglan
worked in one piece whether from the created by increasing two stitches at each design is the min imal amount of finishing.
bottom up or the top down. W hen worked marker every other row. After knitting a Once the piece comes off the needles, it
in o ne piece from the bottom up, the sleeve/ couple of inches, some additional stitches is almost complete. For those who don't
body stitches arc joined when the length to may be cast on for the fron t neck and the like or are nol proficient at finish ing, this
www.TKGA.com 15
kl, pl, Rib for I 1/2". BO loosely in pat or the new color and work one round. When
FASHION FRAMEWORK with invisible BO. you've come around to the stitch where the
new color was sta rted, pick up the right leg
Sleeves of the first color stitch in the row below and
Like the body of the sweater, the sleeves are place onto the left need le. Kni t that right
continued from page 15 worked as a tube. Sleeve length is measured leg of the first color together with the right
from the underarm. The sweater can aga in leg of the new color together. If the jogless
be tried on fo r appropriate length. The join occurs on an increase round, work a
If the piece is too small, you can conti nue sleeves are generally finished as the body for knit in fro nt and back of stitch increase by
to knit rounds without any in creases as design continuity. To prevent holes at the knitting the two differen t colors together as
needed. underarms, try picking up an extra stitch the front leg of the stitch but only the new
between the stitches picked up from the cast color as the back leg of the stitch. In other
Finishing the Ribbing on and the firs t/last live stitch from the yoke words, knit the two strands (on e of each
Looking ahead- an invisible kl, pl ribbing and decreasing those extra stitches away in color) as the knit in fro nt of stitch and only
bind off or a kitchener bind off creates a the first round. one strand (the new color) as the knit in
very flexible and attractive edge. Although a back of stitch.
little more effort than the standard bind off, Sleeves
these bind offs provide a very professional Place sleeve sts on larger dpns, Join new References
finish. yarn at right side of underarm CO sts,
Bernard, Wendy, Custom Knits, STC Craft,
pick up and k 4 sts, pm to indicate beg of
New York, NY, 2008.
Body rnd, pick up and k 4 sts across other half
Buss, Katerina, Big Book of Knitting, Sterling
Remove first marker. Put sts from here to of underarm CO sts. Knit across sleeve sts
Publishing, Co., Inc. NY, NY, 1999.
next marker (sleeve sts) onto wy. Using an to beg of rnd marker - 54 (58, 64, 68) sts.
Caron, Cathy, Knitting Sweaters from the
e-loop method, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts to RH Knit sts for 3/4" (5 rnds) . Dec l st on ea
Top Down, Lark Books, New York, NY, 2007.
needle, pm (beg of rnd marker) , CO 4 (4, side of marker on next and every following
Gibson-Roberts, Priscilla, Knitting In The
4, 4, 4) sts to RH needle. K across back sts 6th rnd, 9 (10, 12, 13) total dee rnds - 36
Old Way, Interweave Press, Loveland CO,
to next marker and remove it. Put sleeve sts (38, 40, 42) sts rem. When sleeve meas 8 1/2
1985.
onto wy. CO 8 (8, 8, 8, 8) sts to RH needle - (9 1/2, 11, 12 1/2)" or 2" less than desired
length, dee 6 sts evenly in last rnd to 30 (32, Editors of Vogue Knitting Magazine, Vogue
132 (140, 152, 160) sts. Join in rnd, work in
34, 36) sts. Change to smaller dpns, work Knitting, Pan theon Books, New York, NY,
St st until piece meas 12 (13, 15, 16)" from
kl , pl Rib for 2". BO loosely in Pat or with 1989.
the top back neck or 2" shorter than desired
invisible kl, pl BO. Work second sleeve to Jape!, Stephanie, Fitted Knits, North Light
length. Change to smaller needles, work kl ,
match. Books, Cincinnati, OH, 2007.
pl Rib for 2". BO all sts in pat or with an
Righetti, Maggie, Sweater Design in Plain
invisible BO.
Weave in all yarn tails using duplicate stitch. English, St. Martin's Press, New York, NY,
Neck Edging Block. 1990.
Working the neckline prior to working Walker, Barbara, Knitting From the Top ,
the sleeves provides a more accurate fit fo r Striped Version Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, W I 1972.
sleeve length. The stitches for the neck line Adding stripes is easy. Simply change colors Madrone, Heather, Knitting Outside the
are picked up in the middle of the knit evenly spaced or randomly - two colors or a Lines: Top-Down Design Tutorial, October 4,
stitch underneath the cast on edge. Doing parade of colors. Working a jogless join will 2009, www.knitoutlines.blogspot.com
so makes the neckline appear to grow out reduce the "stairstep" that can occur when Soucy, Diane, Knitting Your First?, www.
of the sweater fabric. The neckline must working stripes. To work a jogless join, start knittingpureandsimple.com
be bound off loosely enough that it will go
over the wearer's head. Again, an invisible
or a kitchener bind off is a good choice.
).___________ 2"
~
io-
Working the Neckband ,,.:
!£:,
Using smaller 16" circ needle, beg at Back
left raglan "seam': pick up and k 10 (10,
BODY
12, 14) sts across top of left sleeve; 10 (l 0,
10, 10) sts across left side of front; 12 (14,
14, 14) across center neck; 10 (10, 10, 10)
across right side of front; 10 (10, 12, 14)
across right sleeve and 20 (22, 24, 24) sts
across back - 72 (76, 82, 86) sts. Work in 26 (28, 30, 32)"