PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE

1. HEAD - is that portion which is above the table of the machine

2. ARM - the curve part of the head containing the mechanism for driving the
needle and handling the upper thread.
3. BED - the flat portion of the head which is mounted in the shuttle and lower
thread handling mechanism.
4. SPOOL PIN (Pindle) - is the upper right metal rod which holds the spool of the
thread
5. TENSION REGULATOR - device which controls the tightness of the thread
6. THREAD TAKE-UP LEVER - located above the tension regulator where the
thread is passed through an opening in the bar and as lever moves down it
releases the thread to interlock up the bobbin thread.
7. NEEDLE BAR - is the upright bar to the lower end of which the needle is
attached.
8. PRESSER BAR - the vertical bar of which the presser foot is attached.
9. PRESSER FOOT - foot is detachable device for holding the materials in place on
the feed while stitching, the device is removed when attached. When
attachments such tucker, ruffles are used.
10. PRESSER BAR LIFTER - is the lever or handle which serves to raise the presser
foot.
11. THREAD CUTTER - is the blade fastened to the side of the presser foot bar.
12. FACE PLATE - the vertical plate which can be removed to give access to the
needle bar and thread upward.
13. THROAT PLATE– theplatein the bed directly under the needle thru the feed-dog
project upward
14. PRESSER CREW - the screw found on the presser bar. It regulates the amount
of pressure needed in sewing.
15. THREAD GUIDE - supports the thread in its passage from the disc. To the
needle to the tension disc.
16. NEEDLE THREAD GUIDE - supports the thread in its passage from the disc to
the needle.
17. BALANCE WHEEL - is located on the right hand side of the head.
18. BOBBIN WINDER - is located on the right hand side near the wheel, it is used to
wind the thread from spool into the bobbin.
19. BELT – connects the balance wheel and the drive wheel
20. BED SLIDE – located at the left side of the bed and can be opened to give access
to the shuttle and bobbin case and other parts of the mechanism.
21. FEED-DOG – is the oblong metal device with tooth which carries the material
along as it is stitched.
22. STITCHED REGULATOR – is a screw located toward the right side of the head, it
is used to lengthen or shorten the stitch.
23. FEED THROW-OUT DEVICE – part of the machine that helps when the feed-dog
will goes up or down.
24. STITCH INDICATOR PLATE – the plate that contains the number of stitches.
25. STITCH REGULATOR LEVER – found on the right hand side of the head that can
be move up or down.
26. DRIVE WHEEL–is the large wheel located under the table of the machine
27. STOP MOTION SCREW – is located near the center of the balance wheel, this
screw is released or unscrewed while the bobbin is being wound, so that that
the bobbin winder will operate without running the stitching mechanism.
28. BOBBIN OR SHUTTLE HOLE – threads for the lower tension metal spool on
which the lower thread wound.
29. BOBBIN CASE OR SHUTTLE – is the one that holds the bobbin in place
30. THREADLE – is the foot rest at the base of the machine
31. PITMAN ROD – connects the threadle and the drive wheel so that when the
threadle is operated the drive wheel revolves.
32. BELT SHIFTER – is the lever at the front of the hand wheel by which the belt
may be thrown off the wheel.
33. DRESS GUARD – the shield in front of the hand wheel and drive wheel.
34. MOTOR – is used on electric or power drive machine, in such the threadle,
pitman rod and drive wheel has no function
35. NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW – located at the needle bar which is fastened the
needle.
36. LEGS – vertical bar which supports the machine
37. SHUTTLE REST – devise where the bobbin case is inserted or placed.
38. CABINET – the wooden storage of the machine.
BOBBIN BOBBIN CASE
 SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

A. Measuring Tools
1. HEM MARKER– this is an accurate guide for measuring and marking hemline. A
foot ruler may be used if an adjustable hem marker is not available
2. RULER–a smaller about 30 cm long is used for marking straight lines
3. SEAM GAUGE–this is used for measuring and marking short distances such as
hems, tucks, and seams. Small pieces of stiff cardboard maybe bought for this
purpose
4. TAPE MEASURE–this is used for drafting patterns, altering and laying out the
pattern on the fabric. It should be 60 inches or 152cm long, made of non-
stretchable material, numbered on both sides and from each end, and have
small metal tips at each end to prevent fraying.

B. Drafting tools
1. FRENCH CURVE– it is used for shaping the necklines, armhole and collars
2. HIP CURVE–this is used for shaping the hip, skirt hemline, and other long
curved lines.
3. TAILOR’S SQUARE or L-SQUARE– it is used for drawing perpendicular lines,
obtaining square corners and dividing measurements.
4. PATTERN PAPER– this is used for plotting measurements for the fabric.

C. Cutting tools
1. SCISSORS–this is used for cutting threads, trimming seams and slashing,
slashing cutting buttonholes and cutting pattern paper. A pair of scissors with
three or four inches(7.5 or 10 cm) sharp and close fitting convenient
2. SEAM RIPPER– it is a gadget used for ripping machine stitched seams or any
machine stitch which need to be altered.
3. SHEARS – this is used for cutting fabrics. It has as small opening in one handle
for the thumb and one opening in the other handle for two or more fingers to
provide more force in cutting thicker fabrics. The blade should move easily and
cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together, the
shears should have a sharp cutting edge to produce a straight, smooth and
rave-free cut edge of the fabric.
4. PINKING SHEARS – this is used for decorating purposes.

D. Marking tools
1. DRESSMAKERS CARBON PAPER–this is used with a tracing wheel to transfer
construction marks for the pattern to the cloth. It is available in white and
other colors. It makes works quick, easy, and accurate. It produces identical
marks on both layers of fabric.
2. TRACING WHEEL– is used with or without the dressmaker’s carbon paper to
transfer pattern markings to the cloth. The wheel may damage some materials
like knits and other delicate fabrics.
3. TAILOR’S CHALK–is used for marking directly to the fabric. Sharpen the chalk
edge often to produce thin lines for better accuracy markings.

E. Sewing Tools
1. NEEDLES
 FOR HAND SEWING – chose on that is easiest to use. Crewels needles
have longer eyes and may be easier to used then sharp needles. Crewels
needles are suitable for regular sewing and embroidery. Sharp needles
are used for hemming and long basting.
  FOR MACHINE STITCHING – the size of the needle depends upon the
kind of the fabrics such as georgette, use a finer needle no. 11, for light
weight fabrics such as poplin, use no.14, for medium and light-weight
fabrics such as denim, use no.16, for coarse and heavy fabrics, used
no.18 or no.19 would be appropriate.
2. PINS – use rustproof pins which are fine, smooth and sharp. They should be
clean.
3. PINS CUSHION – this is used for keeping pins. A wrist pin cushion is convenient
to keep a supply of pins close to work.
4. SEWING MACHINE – a sewing machine may be foot operated or motor powered.
There are two basic types of sewing machines straight stitch sewing machine for
forward and backward lines only, and the zigzag sewing machine.
5. THIMBLE – this gadget is worn in the middle of the finger of the right hand for
protection while sewing.
6. THREAD – the type of thread is determined by the color and weight of the fabric.
It should either match the fabric or be a shade darker. A supply of the color
threads must be on hand for marking and basting.

THE TAILOR’S SQUARE or L-SQUARE

IMPORTANT USES:
1. To measure short distances up to 24 inches
2. To draw straight lines
3. To construct perpendicular lines
4. For dividing purposes.

The tailor’s square is easy to use. If you divide a certain number, find the
divisional space locate the number to be divided. This is done after dividing the
measurement of the given part of the body into two since you are only drafting for half
of the body. The measurement is expressed in scales.

To illustrate, if you have to get ½ of the breast scale, divide the measurement
(example: Bust-34”) by two and look for the half division which is the short arm. And
17 is the needed measurement. If the breast/bust measurement is 35, again divide by
and you get 17 ½. For the ½ division, look in the L-square and between 17-18.
HEM MARKER FRENCH CURVE

HIP CURVE

RULER

TAILOR’S SQUARE or L-SQUARE

SEAM GAUGE

PATTERN PAPER

SEAM RIPPER

TAPE MEASURE
SCISSOR TAILOR’S CHALK

SHEARS NEEDLES

PINS
PINKING SHEARS

PINS CUSHION

DRESSMAKERS CARBON PAPER

THIMBLE

TRACING WHEEL

THREAD
 PARAAN SA PAGSUKAT
MGA BAHAGI NG KATAWAN NA KAILANGAN SA PAGGAWA NG ISANG KASUOTAN

1. BALIKAT –
Sukatmulasabutongisangbalikatpatungosakabilanadumaraansapunongliigsalikur
an.

2. DIBDIB – Maluwag-
luwagnasukatngmedidasapinakamataasnabahagingdibdibpatungosalikod kung
saannagsasalkop and medida.

3. LAPAD NG DIBDIB – Sukatngagwatngdalawangpinakamataasnabahagingdibdib o

bust point

4. HABA NG DIBDIB –
Sukatmulasakuwebangliigsabalikathanggangsaumbokngdibdib.

5. BAYWANG – Palibotnasukatsabewang

6. BALAKANG – Sukatnapalibotsapinakamalakingbahagingbalakang 8” o 9”.

7. LIKURANG KATAWAN –
Sukatmulasakuwebangleegsabalikatmulasapinakamatamboknabahaginglikodhan
ggangsabaywang.

8. HARAPANG KATAWAN –
Sukatmulasakuwebangleegmulasabalikatpatungosapinakamataasnabahagingdib
dibhanggangsabaywang.

9. KILI-KILI – palibotnasukatngitaasnabrasona may katamtamangluwang o

hustongsukatna may karagdagangisangpulgada.

10. BRASO – Palibotnasukatsakabiluganngpinakamalakingbahagingbraso .

11. HABA NG MANGGAS – sukatmulasadulongbalikathanggangsaninanasanahaba.

12. HABA NG PALDA – sukatmulasabaywanghanggangsaninanasanahaba.

 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG PALDA

AB – Habangpalda
AC – 7”-8”-9”simulasabaywangpababasabalakang plus ½”
AI – ¼” o ½”
AE –ika-apatnasukatngbaywang, plus ½”
AH – kalahatingsukatngAE
FG – 1 ¼” (FH - 5/8”, HG – 5/8”)
H – GitnangFG at AE
CN – parehongsukatng AH atBJ
BK –at CD, ika-apatnasukatngbalakang plus ½”
KL –¼” o ½” o 1”

JOB RELATED: SKIRT

1. Over Edging – front and back panel
2. Attach pocket – front panel
3. Attach Zipper – back panel
4. Sew dart front and back
5. Sew slit panel
6. Join side seam
7. Attach hanger loop (18 x 1 ½)
8. Prepare and attach waist band with pelon
9. Hem bottom
 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG HARAPANG KATAWAN
AB –sukatngharapangkatawan
AC – 3”-4” lalimngleeg
AF – 3”-3 ½”-4” parasalapadngleeg
AE – kalahatingsukatngkili-kili
DG –kalahatingsukatngbalikat
DH – 3 ½”-4 ½”-5”
HI –kalahatingsukatngbalikat may bawasna ¾”
EJ –ika-apatna parte ngdibdib may dagdagna 1”
BK –ika-apatna parte ngbaywang may dagdagna 1 ¼”
BN –kalahatingsukatnglapadngdibdib, parehongsukatngEO
ML – 1 ¼” (MN – 5/8”, NL – 5/8”)
OP – 2”
GIJ –gamitanng French curve upang may korteangkili-kili

JOB RELATED: BLOUSE

1. Sew dart - front and back body part
2. Join shoulder front and back over edging
3. Join side seam front and back over edging
4. Hem sleeve and blouse seams attach to body over edging
5. Prepare and attachcollar to body parts
6. Hem bottom
7. Button hole
8. Button sew
 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG LIKURANG KATAWAN

AB –sukatnglikurangkatawan
AC – ¾”-1” lalimngleeg
AF – 3”-3 ½”-4” parasalapadngleeg
AE –kalahatingsukatngkili-kili
CD – ½” – ¾”
DG –kalahatingsukatngbalikat
DH – 3 ½”-4 ½”-5”
HI –kalahatingsukatngbalikat may bawasna ½”
EJ –ika-apatna parte ngdibdib may dagdagna ½”
BK –ika-apatna parte ngbaywang may dagdagna 1 ¼”
BN –kalahatingsukatnglapadngdibdib, parehongsukatngEO
ML – 1 ¼” (MN – 5/8”, NL – 5/8”)
OP –1 ½” - 2”
GIJ –gamitanng French curve upang may korteangkili-kili
 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG MANGGAS

AB-CD – habangmanggas

AC-BD – kalahatingsukatngkili-kili

CE – 3” o 4”

BK – kalahatingsukatngbraso

AF-FJ-JE – pare-parehongsukat

FI-JH – ½”(parehongsukat)

PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG KWELYO

AB-CD – taasngkwelyo

BD – kalahatingsukatngleeg

CE – 2” o 1”
 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG SHORTS
HARAPAN
AB – habang shorts
AC – sukatng crotch, bawasanng ¼” parasapaha o belt
CD – ika-apatnabahagingsukatngbaywang plus ½”
DE – 2” or 2 ½” or 1 ½”
AG – ika-apatnabahagingsukatngbaywang plus allowance sa pleats or darts
H – gitnangbalakang plus 1”
I –gitnang bottom measure o hita
BJ – kalahatingsukatnghita o thigh
GF – gumamitng hip curve
FL – gumamitng French curve

LIKURAN
GK – mulasabaywangpataas 1 ¼” o 1 ½”
F – ika-apatngbahagingsukatngbalakang plus 1” o ¾” o ½”
EL – 2” o 2 ½” 0 1 ½”
JM – 1 ½”
N –gitnangKAparasa dart salikod
NO –4” pababaparasa dart

JOB RELATED: SHORT PANTS

1. Sew dart – make pleats
2. Attach right fly to left fly panel and top stitch to fly side
3. Attach zipper to left fly
4. Sew outline
5. Attach right fly to zipper join
6. Prepare and attach pocket
a. Front side slide pocket
b. Back welt pocket
7. Join crotch and side seam
8. Join inseams
9. Prepare and attach waist band
10. Prepare bottom
 PARAAN SA PAG-GAWA NG PADRON NG POLO SHIRT
LIKURAN
A – gumamitng L-square, guhitanpahalang at pahaba
A1 –kumuhangsukatna 2 ½” at markahanng 1(A1) ika-aapatna parte ngdibdib
A2 – 2 ½” guhitanngpahalang at pababa 1” o 3” o 4” – habang polo
A5 –ika-apatna parte ngleeg or neckline
2-7 –kalahatingsukatngbalikat
3-8 –ika-apatna parte ngdibdib + 1 ½”
8-1-6 –kalahatingbalikat + ¾”
4-9 –parehasngsukatng3-8guhitannglinya8-9/5-6, 6-7-8gumamitng French curve

HARAPAN
1-B – ¾” pababa
7-C –GuhitannglinyangBC
B-10 –ika-apatng parte ngleeg
10-11 –5-6 at 11-8gumamitng French curve parasakili-kili o arm hole
10-12 – ½ ngkwelyo
12-13 – ¾”
14-15 – ¾” guhitannglinya13-15

JOB RELATED: POLO SHIRT

1. Sew placket
2. Attach yoke and back part
3. Join shoulder left and right
4. Hem sleeve and attach to body
5. Over-edge left side and right armhole
6. Over-edge side seams
7. Prepare and attach collar
a. Collar stand
b. Collar
8. Hem bottom and attach patch pocket
9. Button hole and button sew