CHAPTER 9
Pipe Hanging
W ITHOUT pipe hangers to support sprinkler piping, there
is no fire sprinkler system. Hangers are every bit as
important to the overall physical system as are fittings, pipe,
and valves. A common blunder made by the beginning de-
signer is to ignore this fact completely. As a result, his plan
may show routed piping depicted in an area where there is
nothing of any structural strength from which to hang pipe.
Hence, the designer must always be cognizant of his strategy
for pipe hanging on a given project and how that will affect
his system design.
Referring to the Figure A-2 project example, we can see
that we have planned to hang the cross-main directly beneath
a bar-joist, running the cross-main in the same direction as
the bar-joist. This has been done for the following reason: the
branch-lines (which always run perpendicular to the main
piping) must always run perpendicular to the bar-joists for
reasons of economy. In our case, the branch-line piping will
be hung (see Figure G-1) by means of a top-beam clamp,
3/8 threaded rod, and a standard swivel-ring. This is the same
hanger type which will be used to hang the cross-main piping,
and is a relatively inexpensive hanger. It is also a simple,
labor-saving, hanger to physically install. The clamp affixes
easily to the top of an ordinary bar-joist (or beam), and holds
the hanger rod securely in place to support piping in reliable
fashion. Suppose that the cross-main ran in some location in
between two bar joists. Then some type of hanging method
would have to be utilized. One such “spanner” type hanger in
depicted in Figure G-2. Material-wise, this is a considerably
more expensive hanger, mainly due to the expense of the
unistrut, or whatever material is used to make the long span
between roof joists for support. Labor-wise, the installation
of this hanger eats up quite a bit of field time to add to the
job expense. Although it is necessary to utilize the spanner
or “trapeze” hanger in some installations, it is the designer’s
responsibility to try and lay out his system so that the use of
the spanner-type hanger is eliminated or at least minimized.
‹1E\&5&3UHVV//&
The job specification for a U.S. government-specified project
that I was recently involved with required the following rod
sizes for fire sprinkler pipe hangers:
Pipe to Be Supported Rod Size
 
1 through 2 3/8
2 1/2 1/2
3 1/2
4 5/8
This specification can aptly be called “overkill.” While the
individuals who scripted these requirements openly admitted
doing so only because of a desire for conservative measures,
the NFPA standards are what normally must be adhered to.
These requirements, as outlined in Sections 6-1 and 6-2 of
NFPA Pamphlet No. 13, require hangers and rod sizes of 3/8
for the above-captioned pipe sizes, and 1/2 hanger and rod
for 6 and 8 nominal pipe sizes. In general, each section
of branch-line piping shall have a hanger. For cross-mains,
there shall be at least one hanger between each branch-line.
The distance from the end-sprinkler on any branch-line and
the last hanger shall not exceed 3 for 1 pipe, 4 for 1 1/4
pipe, and 5 for 1 1/2 and 2 pipe. The length of an armover to
a sprinkler-head shall be equipped with an additional hanger
if it is in excess of 2 for any size steel piping.
***
These NFPA requirements are not only field-proven, but
they have been mandated by code for such a long time that
the materials provided by hanger manufacturers and suppliers
are now appropriately standardized. For example, if you were
to purchase a 4 swivel-type pipe ring, you can rest assured
that it will be equipped with a nut that accepts a 3/8 threaded
rod. Similarly, the nut on a 6 swivel ring will be provided
for 1/2 rod attachment.
 NFPA #13 provides an illustrated prospectus of “ap-
proved” hanger types. In the 1999 edition, these are shown
on page 210. The reality of pipe installation, however, is that
the fitter is responsible to securely fasten piping to building
structural members, and the means by which he does so is not
going to be questioned provided that the end result of secure
fastening without exceeding ordinary load requirements is
accomplished. The designer’s real job is to route his pipe so
that something actually exists that the piping can be affixed
to dependably, and that affixing or hanging can be done in
quick and inexpensive fashion.
Figures G-3 thru G-8 show typical means by which sprin-
kler piping is hung, and I would say that these, along with
the top-beam clamp, cover about 99% of all sprinkler pipe
hangers installed today. Any hanger manufacturer, such as
Elcen, Persing, or ITT Grinnell, publishes pamphlets and cat-
alogues illustrating their complete line of available hangers.
You would do yourself a favor by thumbing through one of
these to become familiar with hanger options that are avail-
able for unusual situations. One such hanger that sprinkler
contractors like to stock is the extension C-clamp, which
is a top or bottom-beam clamp that is of such width that a
hanger can be affixed at a spot a few extra inches further
from a joist or beam. If these hanging devices are on hand
in the field, they often solve a hanger problem for the fitter
in certain instances without much expense. The bulk of the
other out-of-the-ordinary hangers on the market, however,
are usually more expensive and generally reserved for use in
unique situations where typical hanging methods cannot be
used.
***
It should be understood that the toggle-type hangers (see
Figure G-10) should only be used as a last resort. The only
time that I have heard of a problem with sprinkler piping
actually falling down due to insufficient hanger support was
when toggles have been involved. It is generally recognized
that a metal lath and plaster ceiling is good support for sprin-
kler piping when toggles are utilized. But when toggles are
affixed to any horizontal surface sheathing that cannot sup-
port the weight of a human being, such as a drywall ceiling,
metal duct exterior, or stucco covering, then you better think
twice about your hanging methodology. At any rate, if you
are ever inclined to use toggles for hanging sprinkler pipe,
do so only after you have contemplated the following:
(1) Consult with others in your company, and perhaps even
a structural engineer. Explain what you are doing to the
building owner’s representative.
(2) Avoid using toggles on any pipe size larger than 2 .
(3) Use additional hangers, spaced closer together than nor-
mal for additional support.
(4) Bear in mind that strict adherence to the NFPA code pro-
hibits the use of toggle hangers on any pipe size larger
‹1E\&5&3UHVV//&
than 1 1/2 . Also, hanging from hollow tile is okay, but
hanging from gypsum wallboard is not permitted.
(5) Strongly consider the use of some alternative type of
light-weight piping in the areas where the toggle hangers
are to be utilized.
A field installation time-saver is the engineered “cut” hanger
rod. These can be easily figured on any typical sprinkler job.
In our project example, top-beam clamps are to be used (see
Figure G-1). In this case, the top of the hanger rod is installed
at an elevation about even with the underside of the roof
deck. Hence, there is no take-out to be made on the hanger
rod except for that of the swivel ring itself. The take-outs to
be used for pipe rings by the design engineer are as follows:
Pipe Size Swivel Ring Take-Out

1 1 1/2
1 1/4 1 1/2
1 1/2 2
2 2
2 1/2 2 1/2
3 3
3 1/2 3
4 3 1/2
5 4
6 5
8 6
So, in our project example, were we to shop cut hanger
rods for field use, we would simply subtract the appropriate
take-out figures from the known distance between the roof
deck and the sprinkler piping to figure the desired lengths. We
know that our branch-line piping is to hang, at a centerline,
10 beneath the underside of the roof deck. So, 8 and 8 1/2
rod length should be shipped to the job for the branch-line
hangers. And since our 3 cross-main pipe will hang 30
down from the roof deck, we can be assured that a 3/8 top-
beam clamp, a 3/8 × 27 threaded rod, and a 3 swivel ring
will be perfectly suited to provide for hanging the cross-main
at the desired elevation.
Now suppose that the building in the project example had
a basement, and the first floor consisted of a poured concrete
slab. The hanger used for the basement piping then, would
be some type of concrete expansion shell (see Figure G-3).
Let’s further assume that all basement piping is to hang at a
centerline elevation of 12 beneath the concrete ceiling. Well,
you would have to study the manufacturer’s data sheet for the
particular concrete insert that is to be put into use in order to
determine the appropriate take-out. For example, the desired
rod length to use for one-inch piping would be 11 long if a
Phillips shell is used, 10 long for a powder-driven stud, and
11 long if a “drop-in” type shell is employed. In each case, a
9 1/2 long rod would suffice for 3 main piping, or 3/8 × 9
rod for 4 main piping.
 The Coach Screw Rod (see Figure G-6) hanger requires
only a ring to attach directly to the coach screw rod itself.
If the length “X” is considered to be the dimension from the
bottom of the wood structural member to the centerline of
pipe, then the following table should be used to figure the cut
dimension of the coach screw rod:
Pipe Size C. S. R. Length
1 , 1 1/4 X + 1/2
1 1/2 , 2 X
2 1/2 X − 1/2
3 X − 1
4 X − 2
5 X − 1 1/2
6 X − 3
Don’t forget that pipe sizes 1 thru 4 would require 3/8
coach screw rods, while 5 and 6 piping would necessitate
the use of 1/2 coach screw rods.
Since sway-bracing is used only in parts of the world sitting
atop earthquake zones of sufficient seismic potential, sway-
bracing will not be discussed here. Sway-bracing is a test
component on NICET examinations, and it is important to be
familiar with its purpose and technique. In Section 6-4.5 of
NFPA Pamphlet No. 13, sway-bracing requirements are quite
thoroughly defined and discussed in great detail. Be familiar
with this, so that you are aware of where to reference this
information when you encounter a project located in such
a zone. Seismic zone maps are shown in the appendix of
NFPA #13, on pages 216 and 217. As with all hanger methods,
it is in your best interest to use only listed and approved pipe
hanging techniques.
***
It is not hard to figure hanger rod lengths on a building
with a sloping roof, or one that pitches down to low-point
locations where the roof drains are situated. In such cases, a
structural plan drawing is needed–one that shows the actual
roof elevations at various spots. Through the use of interpo-
lation, intermediate roof point elevations can be ascertained,
and thereby all hanger rod lengths can be “cut” and noted on
the sprinkler plan, so that the piping can be installed so that a
relatively flat and even piping elevation can be maintained by
the installers (utilizing the differing hanger rod lengths be-
neath the sloping ceiling). Often, these rod lengths will vary
from piece to piece of installed pipe. This is an engineering
exercise to be undertaken only if desired by the fitter. Many
fitters insist that they would prefer to cut their own hanger
rods. To conserve time, communication with field personnel
is imperative, and you must be familiar with their preferences
on installation procedure. So remember, always ask the in-
staller how you can improve your engineering work to help
him out as best you can, but do not waste your time with
unnecessary, and thus, unappreciated figuring.
‹1E\&5&3UHVV//&
One question that I have heard from engineers regarding
hanging beneath steel and bar joist construction is this: Why
not run piping diagonal to the bar joists (at a 45◦ angle), so
that you will always be assured of a joist spot with which to
catch a hanger regardless of the direction of main or branch-
line pipe? Although this question makes for good sense in
theory, there are three obvious reasons why this idea is a bad
one. First of all, it is unprofessional. Fitters derive a great
sense of accomplishment from completing a well-installed
job, and running an entire system at a 45◦ angle to the build-
ing’s structural layout would simply look bad. Second, the
installer likes to keep his piping straight and true by using
beams and joists as benchmarks. This he could not do if the
piping was designed to run at an angle to the structure. And
thirdly, there are many angled metal bracing pieces1 in be-
tween joists that would constantly prove to be obstructions
to the pipe run, necessitating costly offsets. The tried and
true method of pipe routing is always to run the branch-lines
perpendicular to the joists.
One of the easiest hangers to install is the eye-rod or eye-
socket. This is depicted in Figure G-7. A drive-screw is simply
hammered in to a wood joist, with a washer attached, through
the eye-socket. A rod attaches to the eye-socket easily for pipe
hanging. There is only the ring take-out to be figured in for
determining the rod length, but this depends on where on the
wood joist the drive-screw is actually affixed. To be careful,
figure this location to be right in the middle of the wood joist.
As an example, if 2 pipe is to be hung one foot below the
bottom of a 10 wood joist, I would send 3/8 × 15 eye-
rods out to the job. To arrive at this figure, just take the 12
distance (pipe to bottom of joist) and add 5 for the length of
rod needed to extend halfway up the joist, and subtract the
2 take-out for the swivel ring.
One example of a concrete expansion shell used for in-
stallation beneath concrete decks is detailed in Figure G-8.
These shells can easily be installed on the side of a concrete
“tee” or beam and used with an eye-rod type hanger. Again,
there are numerous concrete shell types used today, and man-
ufacturer’s cut sheets need to be consulted before trying to
determine the exact lengths of bolts or rods to use with these
shells. In the interests of uniformity and to reduce the cost
of stock inventory, each sprinkler company usually tends to
use the devices of one hanger supplier, and stock just one
expansion shell type for this reason.
***
Know what you’re hanging to. In pipe installer jargon, there
is something called a “wow.” A wow is a major gaffe that is
visibly apparent. I once saw a 6 main installed 5 above the
floor passing right in front of a door to a shop office. That
is a wow. Anyone who saw this great installation could only
stand there looking at it and say, “Wow.”
Wows can also show up on a sprinkler plan. Let’s say you
show an obstruction (such as a light fixture, beam, or some
ductwork) on your plan, and then show your pipe running
right through it. This obviously would bode badly for your
reputation as a designer. Another “wow” example would be to
show a long length of pipe running to a sprinkler-head, where
there is nothing to hang the pipe from. Suppose you draw
in the roof joists and then show your pipe running parallel
to, but not near, any joists, without any explanatory note.
The installer (who will nonetheless figure a way around this
misnomer) will probably call you up and ask if you figured
on using a “skyhook” to hang this piping. Not knowing what
you’re hanging to can only make your design work appear
less professional.
Refer again to Figure A-2, and, in particular, to the last
sprinklers on the branch-lines. You will notice that they ex-
tend beyond the last bar joist, as opposed to being positioned
directly beneath the last bar joist. There is a reason for this.
It has to do with NFPA #13 subsection 6-2.3.2 that states
that the distance from the hanger rod to the centerline of an
upright fire sprinkler must be a minimum of three inches. In
‹1E\&5&3UHVV//&
preparing his sprinkler layout, the designer must be aware
of this code requirement in order to avoid making the field
installation more difficult than it has to be.
In conclusion, keep in mind that a responsible sprinkler
engineer is always able to explain his engineering decisions,
and this includes his plan for pipe hanging methods. Hanging
costs are included in job estimates, hangers are stocked in
every fabrication shop, and they are an integral part of every
job. Know this, and be conversant with the installing crew
to understand their likes and dislikes of the various types of
pipe hanging methods.
ENDNOTE
1
The metal bracing elements existent in steel beam and bar joist
construction include pieces of angle iron that are not strong enough
to provide support for sprinkler pipe.