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 CONTENTS

“The message
this spring?
Regulars Let your
41 Editor’s letter silhouette
52 Notices speak volumes”
Behind the scenes of the issue Taking shape, page 146

56 Vogue.co.uk
Introducing our columnists
131 Checklist
Muted hues and how to wear them
222 Stockists

Vogue trends
67 Modern way
This season’s coat? It’s a long story…
72 On your bike
Cycling shorts go off-road. The
question is, are you brave enough?
75 Square up
Spring’s shoe shape has some Leather cape,
serious edge £3,250. Cotton
dress, £1,390.
76 Check republic Both Valentino.
Clueless-style plaids are back. Mix Hand-carved
and match for maximum impact wooden choker,
£854. Hand-carved
wooden necklace,
80 Power pockets £1,587. Both Parts
It’s a hoarder’s dream come true – of Four. Wool and
pockets become a fashion statement leather cap, £230,
Noel Stewart
83 ON THE COVER
DAVID SIMS

Play ball
The chic globe-shaped bags making 84 Look, no hands 96 Heart strings
our world go round Once the preserve of tourists, belt Cellist Kelsey Lu on the emotional
bags become the accessory du jour significance of her debut album
85 Back to black Vogue living
Bags for the fashion ascetic: any
101 Life & style
colour so long as it’s…
COVER LOOK 88 Vogue Darling
Summer picks by Julia Sarr-Jamois
Naomi Scott A peek into the universe of VMA- 103 Artistic stronghold
wears silk-satin
winning choreographer Sherrie Silver A fairytale castle has become the
top, £1,020. Satin
headband, £170.
Scottish bolthole of an art-world
Both Prada. Diamond power couple. By Talib Choudhry.
earring, price on
Jewellery & watches Photographs by Kate Martin
request, Cartier.
90 Zip code
Get the look: 109 On the rise
make-up by Peter Close of play: the Van Cleef & Arpels
Forget carb-shaming – well-made
Philips for Dior Zip necklace gets a fun addition
Makeup using the bread has gained superfood status,
Backstage Collection discovers Julia Llewellyn Smith
Dior Lip Glow in 92 It’s our time
Coral and Dior As watch collecting grows in Mr Vogue
Backstage Glow
Face Palette. Hair
popularity among women, Rachel 111 Amazing pace
by Sam McKnight Garrahan examines the inner Footballer Héctor Bellerín is ahead
using Hair by Sam workings of the movement of his times, finds Ellie Pithers
McKnight Multi-Task
Styling Mist. Nails:
Marian Newman. Arts & culture Viewpoint
Set design: Andrew
Tomlinson. Digital 94 Her own mistress 115 Hold the moment
artwork: Epilogue After a difficult year, Suranne Jones Sharon Stone, Pandora Delevingne,
Imaging. Styling: talks to Rebecca Nicholson about Diane von Furstenberg, Slick Woods
Kate Phelan.
Photograph: finding freedom in her latest TV role. and Vogue’s Sarah Harris share their
Nick Knight Photographs by Chloé Le Drezen experiences of new motherhood > 32
27
CONTENTS Face sculpture, Yunus & Eliza.
Gold and diamond choker,
£5,934, Diane Kordas. Gold,
diamond and emerald
necklace. Coral, onyx and
diamond necklace. Both
“This season’s Cartier. Bracelets: right arm,
yellow- and white-diamond,

gold and Graff. Gold T-chain, £5,225.

Gold link, £6,075. Both Tiffany.

precious stones Gold and diamond, £16,400,

Chaumet. Left arm: gold and
diamond snake, Boucheron.
resemble Rings: left hand, gold and
diamond, Chaumet. Gold band,
riches crafted £2,560, Pomellato. Yellow-beryl,
yellow-sapphire and diamond,
in an ancient Piaget. Right hand, gold and
diamond wheat, £8,210,
world…” Chaumet. Gold and diamond
band, £3,360, Pomellato. Gold
From Byzantium, page 210 and diamond, Cartier. Body,
Nubian Skin. Prices on request
unless otherwise stated

Vogue tech
120 My digital health
Model and actress Jourdan Dunn on
the tech that helps her wellbeing
Spotlight
124 This is America
Is Pyer Moss’s founder Kerby
Jean-Raymond set for world
domination, asks Alex Frank.
Photographs by Amy Troost
Beauty & wellness
134 The illusionists
The creation of the perfect foundation.
Photographs by Richard Burbridge
138 Director’s cut
Jessica Diner’s edit of the best
skincare boosters
High
splendour,
141 Floral arrangement
page 204
Spring’s freshest flowers made scent
142 Beauty musings
From a floating spa to multi-tasking
lip products, Lauren Murdoch-Smith
has all the updates you need to know
Fashion & features
146 Taking shape
Eschew colour and pattern and let
a striking silhouette do the talking.
Photographs by David Sims.
Styling by Joe McKenna
158 ON THE COVER
“I am not an English rose”
Londoner Naomi Scott is on the cusp
of worldwide stardom in her role as
Disney’s remodelled Princess Jasmine.
By Sophie Heawood. Photographs by
Nick Knight. Styling by Kate Phelan

164 My seditious heart
Ruffles and frills, but not as you know
them – sports-luxe touches add an
element of rebellion to soft, feminine
looks. Photographs by Arthur Elgort.
Fashion editor: Grace Coddington
176 ON THE COVER
Singular vision
As Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
bring The Row to the UK, their
shared purpose has never been
stronger, finds Olivia Singer.
Photographs by Craig McDean.
Styling by Alastair McKimm
182 Travelling light
Practicality meets insouciant
out-of-office style. Consider this your
to-pack list. Photographs by Richard
Bush. Styling by Sarah Richardson
192 Danger! High voltage!
Take back the night in tight cuts,
thigh-skimming hemlines and a
heavy dose of ’80s-esque electric
brights. Photographs by Charlotte
Wales. Styling by Poppy Kain
202 Digestive aid
Could a revolutionary new probiotic
supplement help us live longer? When
it comes to health, it may be time to
go with our gut, says Kate Spicer
204 ON THE COVER
High splendour
Christian Louboutin’s extravagantly
decorated Lisbon villa matches his
shoe designs, discovers Ellie Pithers.
Photographs by François Halard
210 From Byzantium
Unleash your inner empress with
this season’s most coveted jewellery,
says Carol Woolton. Photographs
by Nick Knight
216 ON THE COVER
End game
As the world gears up for the final
season of Game of Thrones, Zing
Tsjeng meets four of the actresses
who have brought some of the
show’s most-loved characters to life.
Photographs by Jack Davison.
Styling by Nell Kalonji
Back page
What would Jeremy Scott do?
The designer takes our quiz
FRAN

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32
 1(:%21'675((70D\IDLU/RQGRQ:673
© 2019 Chloé, all rights reserved.

6/2$1(675((7/RQGRQ6:;%;
chloe.com
 EDITOR’S LETTER

Right: Naomi Scott

talks about the
magic carpet ride
of her career – and
her thoroughly
grounded life –
on page 158

One of the most...

… joyful aspects of my work here at Vogue involves dealing
in the art of prophesy, intuiting the mood of the season
ahead so as to alert readers to the fashion and culture
moments that truly matter, as well as to the faces – both
familiar and brand new – who are set to define our times.
It is a privilege that I take very seriously indeed; if a person
appears in these pages, they are someone of real note,
MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT; NICK KNIGHT; CHARLOTTE WALES

someone who is lighting up their field in important and

meaningful ways. So it pleases me greatly to make the
following prediction: this month’s cover star, Naomi Scott,
will soon be one of Britain’s brightest cultural exports.
A first Vogue cover is a major landmark in any career, and
not often one that an actress who has taken only her very
first steps to success is ready for. It requires the aligning of
stars: an intriguing back story and captivating personal style,
to say nothing of a professional CV that is white hot. Naomi
is well covered on the latter. In the coming weeks she will
become globally famous thanks to her role as Princess Jasmine We power up the ’80s on page
in Disney’s much anticipated live-action retelling of Aladdin, 192. From top: jacket, £2,325.
before taking up duty as one-third of the new Charlie’s Trousers, £1,700. Both Louis
Vuitton. Belt, from a selection,
Angels this autumn. Alexandre Vauthier. Sandals,
But Naomi is more than the sum of her successful auditions. £650, Gina. Minidress, £6,910.
Boots, to order. Both Alexandre
A young Gujarati Indian-Brit from Essex, she is a > 44 Vauthier. Hat, £420, Victoria
Grant. Right: coat and collar,
to order, Marc Jacobs 41
EDITOR’S LETTER
Below: discover America’s next
big brand on page 124. Sleeveless
jacket and skirt, to order, Pyer
Moss. Earrings, from £85, Tuza.
Bottom, from left: Sherrie Silver is this
month’s Vogue Darling, page 88;
My Seditious Heart, page 164

committed Christian who married at 21, and is balancing a There’s a Game of

Thrones reunion
booming career with a set of personal priorities that many on page 216.
unsung women today share. What she has to say about faith From left: Maisie
and young love is timely and insightful. Of course, I look Williams wears
shirt, £2,440,
forward to seeing Naomi dazzle in Aladdin and kick ass in Ermanno Scervino.
Charlie’s Angels, but I’m also excited to see how she is going Trousers, £590,
to energise a whole generation of British girls and young Saint Laurent
by Anthony
women, who will look at her story, her religion, her style and Vaccarello. Sophie
work ethic, and see a different sort of ingénue from the sort Turner wears
shirt, £2,440,
that Hollywood used to fall for. Reading her cover story, on Ermanno Scervino.
page 158, the message is crystal clear: everyone can dream big. Trousers, £1,150,
There’s always a thrill to celebrating the new, especially Louis Vuitton
as spring kicks off in earnest. This moment in fashion is
all about beautiful lines, popping colours, the chicest
contemporary designers and the crispest, most covetable looks.
I’m excited
Whether it is four of the trailblazing actresses who are starring to see how
in the grand finale of Game of Thrones, or model Anna Ewers
channelling the power moves of the 1980s, the mood is all
Naomi Scott
about confidence. I am pleased to be able to include work is going to
from some of my star fashion editors, too, from Grace energise
Coddington (My Seditious Heart, on page 164) to Joe
McKenna (Taking Shape, page 146). Like all of the magazine’s a whole
top guard, Grace and Joe understand the true nuances of generation of JACK DAVISON; ARTHUR ELGORT; AMY TROOST; EDDIE WREY

styling; that it is an art that goes further than clothes.

People often ask me what makes Vogue shoots so special, British girls
and it is this: they have a fundamental link to the world
we are living in. It may not always be immediately obvious,
but it’s always there.

44
NOTICES

Ahead of the premiere of the final

series next month, Broadly’s UK editor
(and diehard Game of Thrones fan)
Zing Tsjeng caught up with the female
stars of the fantasy drama for End Alastair McKimm styled
Game, on page 216. “It’s quite possibly Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
the only TV show that makes me go for a rare portrait together in
into palpitations the minute I hear the Singular Vision, on page 176.
opening theme tune,” she says. He counts The Row’s founders
among his greatest sources
of inspiration. “It’s always
such a pleasure to spend time
with them,” he says. “I’ve been
in awe of their meticulous
Grace Coddington styled My
approach to fashion for years.”
Seditious Heart, on page 164, in a
Brooklyn industrial complex. “Each
freight elevator became a perfect
set with the help of our prop stylist
Mary Howard,” she says. “Arthur
[Elgort] even photographed all the
members of our set team.”

MEET & GREET

Introducing the faces behind
this month’s issue

Christian Louboutin’s iconic red-soled

shoes have a long history of appearing
in this magazine’s pages (below). On
page 204, Vogue meets the designer at
his lavishly renovated Lisbon villa.

ARTHUR ELGORT; HERMIONE HODGSON; INEZ & VINOODH; EMMANUEL ROBERT;

Nick Knight worked with leading
set designer Andrew Tomlinson
to create the backdrops for
From Byzantium, on page 210.
“Our inspiration for the design
was a happy accident,” says
Tomlinson. “Nick found a pile of
rain-soaked cardboard that
was disintegrating outside
Show Studio. It was beautiful
how the water made the fleshy
cardboard tones all vary and
we both thought it would be
an interesting starting point
for a photoshoot.”
ANDREW TOMLINSON; AMY TROOST; JAVIER VALLHONRAT; ROBERT WYATT
On page 158, Sophie
Heawood meets Naomi
Scott ahead of her turn
as Princess Jasmine in
Guy Ritchie’s Aladdin this
summer. Besides the magical
Arabian tale, Heawood
counts Bedknobs and
Broomsticks as her favourite
Disney story. “I’d love to see
a 2019 version,” she says.
“Imagine what CGI could
make of those floating beds.”
For Danger! High Voltage!
on page 192, Charlotte
Wales photographed model
Anna Ewers (left) in fearless
1980s-inspired looks from
the s/s ’19 collections.

52
VOGUE.CO.UK

Paris Lees
On The Life-
changing
Power Of...

THINGS THAT
LAURA BAILEY
LOVES THIS
WEEK

Introducing the
Vogue columnists
News, reviews, opinion – the people who know most
about today’s world of style are only a click away

Nell Frizzell’s JESSICA DINER’S

Bringing Up WEEKLY BEAUTY
Baby Diary DESK DROPS

PRYCE; VENETIA SCOTT; MARK SIMPSON; SHUTTERSTOCK; PIXELATE.BIZ

DANNY BALDWIN; GABBY LAURENT; RUTH LEWIS; JONATHAN DANIEL

Sarah
Harris’s
Style Edit

THE WEEK
IN REVIEW
WITH RAVEN
SMITH
56 CHECK OUT THEIR COLUMNS AT VOGUE.CO.UK
 EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CREATIVE DIRECTOR JOHAN SVENSSON

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GERARDDAREL.COM
 TRENDS
Edited by Naomi Smart
Styling by Donna Wallace
SET DESIGN: LOUIS GIBSON. MODELS: KATIA ANDRE, JULIANE GRUNER, MELODY LULU-BRIGGS,
HAIR: JOEY GEORGE. MAKE-UP: CYNDLE KOMAROVSKI. NAILS: LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES.

From left: Zoë wears

MODERN WAY
coat, £2,490, Salvatore
Ferragamo. Shirt, £219.
Trousers, £995. Both
Boss. Shoes, £265,
Stuart Weitzman.
Right now, we’re crushing big on practicality. Melody wears coat,
£1,060, Kassl, at
From hands-free bags to multipocketed jackets, Browns. Body, £665.
Trousers, £1,005. Both
spring’s double-duty power players are Bottega Veneta. Shoes,
£360, Dorateymur.
designed to work hard – and look fabulous. Earrings, from £97,
AFRICA PENALVER, ZOE THAETS

Lizzie Fortunato.
Photographs by Stas Komarovski Clutch, £750,
Balenciaga. Juliane
wears coat, from £700,
Emporio Armani.
Trousers, £255, Marc
Cain. Shoes, £695,
Simone Rocha. Bag,
from £1,400, Givenchy

67
LONDON STORE, 278 BROMPTON ROAD — MSGM.IT
 TRENDS

THE MACKINTOSH
“This
Quietly refined, the retro-infused
season’s slick
mac works best with a flash of leg mac is a
minimalist’s
dream”
Naomi Smart,
shopping editor

VALENTINO
From left: Zoë wears coat, £700, Nanushka. Top, £55, Cos. Bustier,
£500, Ermanno Scervino. Trousers, £1,200, Theory. Choker, £1,165,
Meadowlark. Ring, £410, Charlotte Chesnais. Africa wears coat,
£5,850, Versace. Top, £130, Nanushka. Bra top, £110. Skirt, £1,405.
Both Longchamp. Melody wears coat, £11,805, Salvatore Ferragamo. Mackintoshes:
Earrings, from £97, Lizzie Fortunato. Necklaces, from £240 each, Alighieri above, from top,
£190, Cos.
£1,045,

Great lengths
Mackintosh.
£845, Lemaire

The best spring coats offer elongated

silhouettes in refined cuts
JACQUEMUS
STAS KOMAROVSKI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; INDIGITAL; PIXELATE.BIZ

THE TRENCH
PRADA

An oldie, but a goodie: spring showers

couldn’t meet a better match

Leather coats:
Trenches: from left, right, from left,
£695, Kate Spade New
York. £325, Gerard
£2,343, Frame.
£1,797, Onar.
THE LEATHER COAT
Darel. £995, Joseph £239, Zara How to ace minimalism without the
anonymity? The only way is leather

69
/)2(%00.)22)6

AMAZONE BAG. READY-TO-WEAR BY LONGCHAMP.

 From left: Zoë wears
belted jacket, £2,090.
Shorts, £350. Both Fendi.
Slingbacks, £225, Russell
& Bromley. Choker, £595,
Zohra Rahman. Africa
wears blazer, £2,905 as
part of suit. Shorts, £365.
Both Philipp Plein. Belt,
£320, Marni. Slingbacks,
from £610, Givenchy.
Earrings, £240. Anklet,
£85. Both Theodora
Warre. Necklace,
£240, Alighieri

ON YOUR BIKE
Cycling shorts are one of this summer’s
trickiest trends, says Ellie Pithers.
Will you dare to wear?

H
ow positive is your
relationship with your
thighs? I only ask because,
this spring, it might need
a little therapy – thigh-rapy, if you will
– in preparation for the new short
shape. Don’t shoot the (bike) messenger
but it’s: cycling shorts.
The s/s ’19 shows contained enough
to clothe a peloton. At Chanel, Fendi,
Jacquemus, Jil Sander, Miu Miu,
Roberto Cavalli and Stella McCartney,
workout-ready shorts transformed
catwalks across Europe into veritable
velodromes. At Chanel – paired with
jaunty tweed jackets and straw hats –
they generated a madeleine moment:
micro shorts appeared under Chanel
couture dresses as recently as 2014,
but many showgoers were instantly
transported back to spring/summer
1991, when Linda Evangelista stalked
the catwalk, surfboard under one arm,
in a sequined blue evening jacket, door-
knocker earrings and tight, tight, tight
black shorts. Everywhere else? Cycling
shorts served to add an aerodynamic
burst of downtown cool to crisp tailored
blazers and super-starched shirts.
In truth, the trend has been pedalling
away on a low cadence for a few seasons.
At the s/s 2018 shows, cycling shorts
debuted beneath lacy puffball dresses at
Saint Laurent, knitted sweaters at Dolce
& Gabbana and sharp tailoring at Off-
White. At the latter, designer Virgil
Abloh namechecked Diana, Princess of
Wales strolling round Sloane Square in
her gym kit, Gucci bamboo-handled
bag on her arm, as inspiration. The
shorts reached critical mass thanks to
Instagram – more specifically, Kim
Kardashian’s feed – where they garnered
cultural cachet as the preferred method
of showing off toned legs and abs. By
the time summer 2018 got underway,
STAS KOMAROVSKI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE;
they were the unanticipated shot in the
leg the athleisure faithful never knew
they needed, a 1990s throwback that
MITCHELL SAMS; GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL; PIXELATE.BIZ
was less Saved by the Bell, more, well,
Chanel. The conclusion: turns out
cycling shorts look surprisingly chic
when paired with barely-there sandals
and one-size-up tailoring.
This season, Wardrobe NYC’s are
the shorts to covet. Founded in 2017 by
stylist Christine Centenera and the
Australian designer Josh Goot, the label
proposes a concise, sports-influenced
offering of high-quality basics – a black
blazer, a white T-shirt, black leggings
– available in capsule edits of four or
eight pieces (none of the items are
TRENDS
Left: Gigi
Hadid in
New York,
September
2018
JACQUEMUS
CHANEL S/S ’91
“I like the silhouette
they create – it feels
fresh to me”
available to purchase individually).
The prized item? The black bike shorts,
which Centenera wore all over town
this past summer, styled with a black
blazer. “I like the silhouette they create,”
she emails from New York. “It feels
fresh to me.” Her friends Gigi Hadid,
Kylie Jenner and Man Repeller’s
CHANEL
Leandra Medine Cohen agree, wearing
the cult shorts with a crew-neck black
sweater and pointed ankle boots (Gigi),
a crop top and white trainers (Kylie),
and an oversized sweater, a straw bag
and ballet pumps (Leandra).
Bradley Wiggins need not apply. But
should you? Could you? According to
influencer Camille Charrière, who’s
been ambling about Notting Hill in a
pair of Burberry cycling shorts, they are
surprisingly accessible. “They have a
retro feel that is very fun. I’ve been
wearing mine with a belted blazer and
kitten heels,” she says. “Worn with a
baggy top or a cinched waist and the
right shoes, they could work on 99 per
cent of people – but only if you feel
comfortable.” She counsels caution
Christine
on the topic of fit. “Too tight or too Centenera
baggy and they look very wrong.” As at Paris
for the reaction? “My Burberry ones Fashion
FENDI
Week, July
feature in one of my most-liked posts 2018
of 2018.” Good luck. Q
73
 TRENDS
Clockwise from
far left: satin
Mary-Janes, £515,
Miu Miu. Leather
mesh courts, £630,
Bottega Veneta.
Jewelled satin
slingbacks, £650,
Fendi. Leather
courts with
hardware, £755,
Balenciaga

SQUARE UP
Whether you’re climbing corporate ladders or kicking
back with cocktails, make sure the square toe is front of mind
when shopping spring’s shoe shapes
STAS KOMAROVSKI; PIXELATE.BIZ

From above: beaded

silk shoes, £550, to
order, Erdem. Patent-
leather loafers, £360,
Dorateymur. Patent-
leather loafers, from
£420, Rayne London.
Embellished leather
shoes, £495, Rejina Pyo

75
TRENDS

From left: Africa wears

dress, £510. Top, £230. Both
Kenzo. Sandals, £365, By Far.
Bag, £395, Kate Spade New
York. Melody wears blazer,
£345, Maje. Cardigan, £333.
Bra top, £220. Both Rokh,
at Ssense.com and Surrender.
Skirt, £225, Marc Cain.
Belt, £880, Hermès. Sandals,
£150, Arket. Earrings, £710,
Charlotte Chesnais. Zoë wears
dress, £895, Osman. Top, £155,
Sandro. Slingbacks, £550,
Jimmy Choo. Katia wears
jacket, £1,010. Skirt, £445.
Both Mulberry. Poloneck, £155,
John Smedley. Boots, £1,270,
JW Anderson. Earrings, £45,
Kate Spade New York. Juliane
wears blazer, £480, Emporio
Armani. Shirt, £690. Trousers,
£665. Both Atlein. Slingbacks,
£595, Jimmy Choo. Earrings,
£128, Fay Andrada, at
Matchesfashion.com
 CHECK REPUBLIC
Colour-pop plaids are enjoying a moment in the spotlight,
and there are plenty of ways to wear them – from carefully
matched to clashing. Our tip? Avoid information overload
and anchor with neutral layers or block colours
STAS KOMAROVSKI

77
INTRODUCING THE REEBOK X VICTORIA BECKHAM COLLECTION.
Available now at reebok.com/victoriabeckham
TRENDS Below, from left: Katia wears gilet, £2,670, Brunello Cucinelli. Dress, £209, Sandro.
Mismatched earrings, from £200, Timeless Pearly. Necklace, £240, Alighieri. Bracelet, £650,
Dior. Melody wears jacket, £450, Belstaff. Belt, £460, Tod’s. Trousers, £710, Ports 1961.
Earrings, £375, Jennifer Fisher. Zoë wears gilet, £1,058, Sacai, at Dover Street Market.
Trousers, £580, Jil Sander. Necklace, £169, Swarovski. Cuff, £265, Miansai. Bag, £3,650, Fendi
EXCESS BAGGAGE
One bag good, two bags
better: the spring catwalks
forecast doubling up STELLA MCCARTNEY

PROENZA SCHOULER
CHANEL

ALBERTA FERRETTI
CHANEL
FENDI
GIVENCHY

Power pockets
Fashion’s down-to-earth turn means everything from
STAS KOMAROVSKI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ
handbags to shorts comes festooned with plus-sized pockets.
You will never lose your phone again
MAISON MARGIELA

From far left: belted

shirt, £1,105, Loro Piana.
Skirt, £143.50, Sandro.
Shirt, £420, Tory Burch.
Shirtdress, £270, Ganni
80
P.A.R.O.S.H.
parosh.com
 TRENDS

PLAY
BALL
A pared-back
approach doesn’t
negate frivolity.
The new orb shape
is spring’s wild-
card arm candy

From left: leather

beach ball bag, £3,115,
Chanel. Leather bag
embellished with
crystals, £3,550, Gucci.
STAS KOMAROVSKI

Studded leather bag,

£940, Balmain. Lizard
bag, from £10,450,
Louis Vuitton.
Shirtdress, £319, Boss

83
 Clockwise from below: leather belt bag, £3,160,
Chanel. Top, £730, David Koma. Trousers, £627, Magda
Butrym. Leather belt bag, £1,090. Dress, £2,250. Both
Burberry. Leather belt bag, £750, Chloé. Dress, £1,535,
Miu Miu. Trousers, £495, Amanda Wakeley. Bracelets, from
£175 each, Miansai. Leather belt bag, from £1,055. Ring,
from £220. Both Givenchy. Shirt, £420, Holland & Holland.
Trousers, £210, Sandro. Bracelet, £144, Cornelia Webb

LOOK,
NO
HANDS
The ultimate in
functional accessorising,
the belt bag has had a
ladylike update for
s/s ’19. (Just don’t call
it a bumbag)
STAS KOMAROVSKI; PIXELATE.BIZ

Canvas and leather,

Leather, £95, DKNY Leather, £695, MCM £1,520, Louis Vuitton Leather, £1,200, Dior

84
 TRENDS

Leather, £1,660, Miu Miu

Leather, £1,890, Fendi

Leather, £7,900, Delvaux

Leather bag,
£2,500. Bustier dress,
£4,600. Both Celine
Leather, £590, Wandler, by Hedi Slimane
at Matchesfashion.com

BACK TO
BLACK
After seasons of extravagant colour,
aren’t you feeling ready for a gloriously
straightforward black bag again?
Leather, £2,100, Leather, £1,550,
Valentino Garavani Dolce & Gabbana Discreet is the word
85
ADWOA. Activist.
LUNA. Quadcross rider.
JOLIE. Artist.

D I S C O V E R M O R E N E W V O I C E S AT M A N G O . C O M
“NE W VOICE S” S S19
Let’s build the future, together.
VOGUE DARLING “When I started
Mac dancing, nobody
“My bag is a bright pink “My go-to
Cosmetics was listening to
Prada carry-all – my mother scent at the
eyelashes African music.
gave it to me and it totally moment is
in 32, It’s been phenomenal
suits my personality. It’s loaded Gucci Bloom
£11.50 to see that change.
with a million pairs of false [£125].”
I love Dotorado
eyelashes, Beats headphones Pro [left] and Gaia
by Dr Dre and my Bible, which Beat [right].”
I never leave home without.”

Sherrie wears dress,

£1,035, Sies Marjan.
Photograph: Eddie Wrey.
Styling: Florence Arnold

Sherrie
Wireless
headphones,
£250, Beats
by Dr Dre,
at Apple.com

Silver
With her encyclopedic knowledge of African
dance and trademark hypnotic style, Rwandan-
born, London-raised Sherrie Silver is quickly

PRODUCER: SYLVIA HONG. DIGITAL ARTWORK: ART POST LONDON. JAMES DUNCAN
becoming one of the world’s most sought-after

HAIR: RIO SREEDHARAN. MAKE-UP: ANNE SOPHIE COSTA. NAILS: JENNI DRAPER.
choreographers. Having launched her YouTube
channel in 2011, bringing her self-taught moves

DAVIDSON/TED; RYAN LASH; WOODY RANKIN; INDIGITAL; PIXELATE.BIZ

to the masses, the 24-year-old shot to fame last
year after Childish Gambino (aka Donald
Glover) booked her to work on his music video
for “This Is America”, which won her a VMA
for Best Choreography. “My mother was texting
me every five minutes about the number of
people who had watched it,” she says, laughing.
“It hit more than 12 million views in 24 hours.”
Up next? The release of Guava Island, a musical
film starring Rihanna and Glover, which she
choreographed, as well as working with the
latter on his Coachella set. “I’ve always been
proud of my African heritage, and what I do is
“For a special about more than just dance,” she says. “It’s a
occasion, it’s
hard to beat a
matter of identity and history and liberation.
Versace dress.” Seeing that finally being recognised within
mainstream culture is amazing.” HM
“I can’t quit
Mac Cosmetics
Retro Matte
Lipstick in Ruby
Woo [£17.50] –
it looks good on
every skin tone.”

Hi-tops,
£130, Nike
“I live between
London and New
York, but I’m on the
road constantly for
work. I just bought
a red case from
Calvin Klein, and
I’m hoping to get a “I’m obsessed
set of Louis Vuitton with having
luggage at some my clothes
point as well.” matching –
I will get the
same trainer in “I’ve never been much of a
five different reader, but I listen to Ted Talks
Holdall, £1,010, colours. Nike every morning. There’s one
“Rwanda is still my happy place. Whenever I Louis Vuitton Air Jordans to suit every possible mood,
land back in Kigali, I immediately go out for are still my whether you’re heartbroken
chicken, beans and ugali, then visit the safe favourites.” or on top of the world.”
house I created for street children with my
foundation, Children of Destiny. It’s important
to me that I never forget where I’m from.”
JEWELLERY

ZIP
CODE
Signal your preference
for sparkling wit with an
ingenious classic reworked
for now, says Rachel
Garrahan. Photograph by
Thomas Lohr. Styling
by Poppy Kain

N
o piece of jewellery
is a more perfect
expression of the
relationship between
haute couture and haute joaillerie
than Van Cleef & Arpels’ Zip
necklace. In 1930s Paris, Elsa
Schiaparelli thrilled the fashion
crowd with avant-garde couture
designs incorporating visible
zips, hitherto consigned to
utilitarian wear. It is believed
that it was one of Schiaparelli’s
clients, the Duchess of Windsor,
who challenged her friend
Renée Puissant, Van Cleef ’s
artistic director, to create a piece
of high jewellery that functioned
in the same way as a zip.
More than 10 years in the
making, the result – eventually
finished in 1950 – was a feat of
audacious design and engineering
that endures today. Featuring
interlocking gold teeth peppered
with precious gems, the Zip
could be worn as a necklace or,
when zipped up, as a bracelet –
perfectly timed, with the dawn of
international travel and the need
for a versatile wardrobe on the fly.
Fast-forward to today, and the
maison’s latest high-jewellery
collection pays tribute to the
unique majesty of the ruby –
exceptional examples of which
are said to be even rarer than
diamonds – with the Zip
necklace providing the perfect
Diamond and home for the dramatic allure of
ruby Zip necklace,
price on request, the so-called King of Gems.
Van Cleef & Arpels. “The ruby’s intense beauty brings
Sequined silk dress,
worn back to front,
the Zip to the next level,” says
£7,285, Saint Nicolas Bos, the company’s
Laurent by Anthony CEO. We predict it will also
Vaccarello. Hair:
Soichi Inagaki. garner this iconic design a new
Model: Kristin Drab generation of devotees. Q
 Watches: from left,
Royal Oak Frosted
Gold Carolina
Bucci, £47,500,
Audemars Piguet.
Constellation
Manhattan, £6,000,
Omega. Automatic
Nautilus, £36,460,
Patek Philippe.
Octo Finissimo,
£37,700, Bulgari.
Satin dress, £1,290,
Fendi, at Browns.
Model: Eva S

It’s our time

As an increasing number of women enter the
world of serious watch buying, Rachel Garrahan asks,
what do we want from a modern timepiece?
Photograph by Adrian Samson.
Styling by Donna Wallace

W
hen Carolina Bucci turned 16, her parents
marked the occasion with a ladies’ Rolex.
While its steel-and-gold bracelet was the
height of 1990s fashion, she disliked its
dainty proportions. The jewellery designer spent the next 20
years searching for her ideal watch, eventually finding it in
a perfectly proportioned vintage men’s Audemars Piguet Royal
Oak. “I’d finally found the perfect match,” she says.
It was a love story that eventually led to the designer’s
own collaboration with the Swiss watchmaker. The 2016
Royal Oak Frosted Gold combined Audemars Piguet’s
unmistakable design codes with Bucci’s signature Florentine
finish, where the gold is beaten with a tiny diamond-tipped
tool to subtly sparkling effect.
The watch was a runaway hit and was recently followed
by the Frosted Gold Carolina Bucci Limited Edition. The
latter boasts an ultra-chic silver-toned mirror dial that changes
constantly, reflecting the wearer’s outfit and surroundings.
Audemars Piguet is one of a number of Swiss watchmakers
to have woken up in recent years to the fact that, in an age
of female empowerment, women want a watch that works
for their busy lives at the same time as expressing their style.
“Women are all different in terms of taste, shape, size and
opinion. You need to find what’s right for you,” says Bucci. And
whether their look reads high fashion or boho chic, they are
using their own purchasing power to make a statement through
haute horlogerie, with more women than ever entering the
traditionally male domain of serious mechanical timepieces.

Omega has an impressive history of women’s watches, from
its 1930s Medicus, designed for nurses, to its 1969 collection
with jeweller Andrew Grima. Answering the demands of its
female clientele, Omega’s new overhaul of its Constellation
Manhattan collection includes a mechanical model, the 29mm
Master Chronometer, for the first time since its launch in
1982. Incorporating Omega’s Master Co-Axial movement,
each watch undergoes a minimum of 10 days of rigorous
independent testing, including resistance both to water and
to the magnets that crowd our handbags. “It’s about taking
care of what women want and
need from their watch today,”
says Raynald Aeschlimann,
CEO and president of Omega.
Complications, those feats of
engineering that deliver more
than time or date, are another
area of growth in women’s
watches. They come in myriad
forms: a moonphase depicts the
lunar passage; a minute repeater
chimes the time on demand.
Fa b r i z i o B u o n a m a s s a
Stigliani, Bulgari’s director of
watch design, has seen the
market for women’s complications evolve over
the past decade. For him, dazzling technical
features and aesthetics go hand in hand. “It’s
important for us to combine the two souls
of the brand: Swiss watchmaking expertise
and our Roman jewellery heritage,” he says.
For him, this marriage finds perfect
expression in the new Diva’s Dream
Finissima, an ultra-feminine gem-set watch
incorporating Bulgari’s BVL 362 Finissimo
calibre, the world’s thinnest minute repeater,
which has a shimmering blue aventurine and
diamond dial crafted by hand in Bulgari’s
jewellery workshop. “For us, the object must
first be beautiful. It has no soul without
beauty,” he says. Clearly Bulgari’s clients agree. All 10 pieces
of last year’s Diva Finissima sold out within hours of its
unveiling. It is also the reason many women have opted for
the ultra-thin, handsomely seductive Octo Finissimo in matt
rose gold, even though it was originally designed for men.
Twelve years ago, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its Poetic
Complications, a line of haute horlogerie that combines
watchmaking mastery with exceptional craftsmanship. “We
wanted to transfer the mindset of high jewellery, the storytelling
magic, to high watchmaking,” says Nicolas Bos, president at
Van Cleef & Arpels. “When we started, people told us it was
a stupid idea. Women weren’t interested in mechanisms.”
Still Van Cleef persisted, and the response exceeded all
expectations, explains Bos. In November the maison took home
the best complicated ladies’ watch prize at the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève (the watchmaking Oscars) for its Lady
Arpels Planétarium, in which the solar system is miniaturised
to fit on your wrist: against an aventurine sky, a tiny turquoise
MARC DUCREST; LUCA ROSSETTI
earth rotates around the golden sun in a full 365 days, while a
pink mother-of-pearl Mercury orbits in just 88. While the
technical mastery of the Planétarium is impressive, “the primary
thing is the visual impact and the story behind it,” says Bos.
“When we talk to a client, we don’t talk about the techniques
we’ve used. We talk about the stones, the inspiration, the stories.”
For Sandrine Stern, Patek Philippe’s head of creation, the
demands of female clients for a watch to fit their hectic lifestyles
WATCHES
Left: Carolina Bucci.
Far left: Sandrine Stern.
Left below: Fiona Krüger.
Below and opposite
below: designs for
Richard Mille’s
RM 71-01 tourbillon
as well as fulfil their need for beauty make
women’s complications an even greater
challenge than its men’s creations.
“Everything is important for ladies:
aesthetic, comfort of wear, legibility,
dependability and precision,” she says,
pointing to the classical elegance of 2018’s
Ladies’ Chronograph Ref 7150/250R.
More than ever before, complications
are now being created first for women’s
watches, rather than adapted from a man’s. When the innovative,
undeniably masculine watchmaker Richard Mille unveiled its
first in-house tourbillon last year, it chose to do so in the form
of a women’s timepiece. With a price tag of £389,500, the RM
71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman is for a successful woman
who knows what she wants, says head of global client experience
Amanda Mille Bey. “She will buy something in terms of
investment but she has to fall in love with it first.”
Women are not only buying watches; more are working
in the industry, too. Two of the watchmakers at luxury giant
Richemont are now headed up by women – Chabi Nouri at
Piaget and Catherine Rénier at Jaeger LeCoultre. Meanwhile,
Cécile Guenat, Richard Mille’s artistic director, has added a
dose of fun into watchmaking with the new 10-piece Bonbon
collection, in which mastery of hi-tech materials has been
combined with the candy colours of marshmallows and
liquorice allsorts in a collection that looks good enough to eat. “She will buy
Fiona Krüger, a Scottish independent watchmaker based in
something
France and Switzerland, believes things are heading in the
right direction, but says, “Women are so adventurous in fashion in terms of
and jewellery, why should watches be any different?” She creates
watches that are purposefully androgynous. The beauty of her investment,
Skull watch and the exploding shards of her new Chaos but she has
movement are universally appealing. “It’s not true that women
aren’t interested in the mechanics, they just relate to it in a
to fall in love
different way,” she says. “You have to make them dream.” Q with it first”
 Suranne wears cotton
dress, £1,730, Emilia
Wickstead. Opal
and multicoloured-
sapphire earrings,
£2,425, Noor Fares.
Hair: Yumi Nakada-
Dingle. Make-up:
Vassilis Theotokis.
Nails: Robbie
Tomkins. Set design:
Anna Sbiera

HER OWN
MISTRESS
After an emotionally punishing year,
Suranne Jones tells Rebecca Nicholson
how her latest role – as wildly promiscuous
Regency lesbian Anne Lister – has been a revelation.
“Working, Photographs by Chloé Le Drezen.
working, Styling by Donna Wallace
working,

I
on all these n 2015, to an audience of 10 million gripped viewers,
very dark Suranne Jones snarled a line that became instant legend:
“Bitch is right. I’m a wolf tonight.” As Doctor Foster’s
subjects… betrayed and vengeful GP, she had got the nation talking,
without never more so than when she poisoned the most uptight of
suburban dinner parties with her raging spite. The performance
realising, elevated the former Coronation Street star into a headline act
I was not for the small screen’s golden era. Meryl Street, if you will.
Now there is talk of a global breakthrough. We meet in
dealing with London, shortly after Jones has finished shooting her gorgeous
what I should and quietly revolutionary new period drama, Gentleman Jack.
Created by dramatist Sally Wainwright (Happy Valley, Last
have been Tango in Halifax), and set to air simultaneously on the BBC
dealing with” and HBO, it is based on the four-million-word diaries of
Anne Lister, a swaggering 19th-century landowner sometimes
referred to as “the first modern lesbian”.
There is already awards buzz surrounding Jones’s central
turn, which required months of research – from perfecting
Lister’s walk to nailing the 1830s social mores. If the first
episodes are anything to go by, it is as nuanced as it is
daring. “How can you not fall in love with someone, when
you’re literally reading the day-to-day minute detail of their
life and thoughts?” says Jones in her Lancashire tones after
sitting for her Vogue portrait. Both her voice and her features
are instantly recognisable, the intimacy of television making
her seem more familiar than most film stars. Dressed in
dark denim and Chelsea boots, she apologises for getting
distracted by her phone (her son is two, and she’s currently

monitoring his potty training from a distance), before
turning her attention to Lister.
“She built her own coal mines, she taught herself geology,
she spoke Greek, Latin and French… she self-educated,” she
explains. Originally, tales of her many lovers were written in
code, a mix of algebra and Ancient Greek that was deciphered
only after her death in 1840. She defied her times, dressing
in a masculine style and seducing plenty of women, eventually
making one her de facto wife. Last year, a rainbow-edged
LGBT blue plaque was erected at the church in York where
their “marriage ceremony” took place, considered the first
lesbian wedding in Britain. It is exactly the kind of work
Jones has sought out in the second stage of her career.
Born Sarah Anne, she was brought up in Oldham, the
daughter of an engineer and a secretary, and started acting
professionally at 16, taking the name Suranne (her great-
grandmother’s) for her Equity card. She turned up on various
shows and stages in the late ’90s, before getting her break on
Coronation Street in 2000, to the delight of her family. One of
the finest actors forged in British soaps (Corrie fans still talk
about her Karen McDonald – “a bulldog in hoop earrings” – in
reverent tones), she left after four years and for a time seemed
unsure of what to do next, like many actors after their stint in
soaps. If there was one show that changed the course of her
career it was Wainwright’s Unforgiven, a 2009 crime thriller
about a woman just released from prison after serving 15 years
of a life sentence for murder. It set the tone for a series of
acclaimed but bleak dramas that turned Jones into the master
of misery. She reels them off: “Scott & Bailey had light touches,
but Rachel Bailey was a hard drinker, she was a shagger and
she was rough. And then Doctor Foster, betrayal. Save Me,
paedophilia. Frozen, paedophilia…” After all that, I ask,
jokingly, is she OK? “Well,” she says, and takes a breath. “No.”
Jones is keen to talk honestly about what has happened to
her over the past couple of years, yet wary, because she knows
that, after Doctor Foster in particular, there’s a kind of fame
attached to her that invites headlines. “I don’t want it to be,
‘Suranne Jones suffers with anxiety,’ ‘Suranne Jones had
depression,’” she says.
Doctor Foster’s success coincided with a difficult time in her
life. She married in 2015 (Laurence Akers, a scriptwriter), and
had a son in February 2016. Her mother died 10 months later,
having had Alzheimer’s for eight years. Jones kept working.
She signed up for Frozen, a harrowing West End play, in
February 2018, as the mother of a child abducted and murdered
by a paedophile. “Working, working, working, on all these
very dark subjects. So without realising, I was not dealing
BBC/LOOKOUT POINT/BEN BLACKALL; BBC/LOOKOUT POINT/JAY BROOKS
with what I should have been dealing with. By the time
I got to Frozen, I was feeling very lonely, very anxious, I didn’t
want to go out and speak to people. And that ended up with
me collapsing.” She apologetically pulled out of the run just
before it finished, with reports citing a “mystery illness”.
She explains, “I was having hallucinations, which was my
body shutting down, because I was exhausted. I was feeling
trapped every time I went to the theatre – when I heard the
music for Frozen I’d freak out. Doctors told me not to
continue, but of course I did, because my face was up there
[on the posters].” She could see people on Instagram telling
her they were coming from Manchester, from Scotland, saying
how excited they were. “Pressure, pressure, pressure.” She
had what she describes as an “out-of-body thing, a really
scary incident” on stage, and came off halfway through a
performance. She finally listened to the doctors and pulled
out. “I got help,” she says, succinctly. In the months since,
she has taken steps to get better: meditation, yoga, regular
ARTS & CULTURE
therapy, and shutting down her Instagram account (she has
reopened it, but with a strict rule of work posts only).
When the crisis point came, Gentleman Jack was already
on the cards. It was no small undertaking – eight months in
Halifax in early 19th-century costume – so she had to decide
if it was something she could do. “And it was, because it was
so uplifting, it was so life-affirming.”
She moved to a farmhouse in Yorkshire with her husband
and son for the duration of filming. “I found [a therapist]
who came to the house every week. We had lovely neighbours,
and chickens and ducks and goats, and it was just… peace.
I needed that peace to deal with what had happened to me,
to say goodbye to my mum in the way that I needed to, and
to be around my baby boy who wanted his stories read, and
just be a mum. And then also be Gentleman Jack.”
Being Gentleman Jack involved letting go, in every respect.
Jones wasn’t allowed to dye her hair for a year. “I grew my
armpit hair, I had to grow out my legs, so they were out here
and prickly. Until yesterday my hair was down here and
straggly.” It’s neat now, cropped to her shoulders. Someone
in the cast told her she should be more Gentleman Jack in
her life, because it really did seem to suit her. “It kind of gave
me a freedom to just not give a f**k as much as I did, and I
think that there had been a little light that had gone off in
me, that just needed reigniting,” she says.
A co-production with HBO, it will introduce Jones to new
American viewers. “I’ve no desire to go anywhere unless a
job I love takes me, so I’m not about to go to America and
sell my wares,” she says cautiously. Instead, she’s taking a
break: four months off. She’s writing and
producing scripts with her husband, and she’s
thinking about doing film for the first time, if
the right thing appears. But there’s something
else, too, now that she’s beginning to move past
the darkness. “I’d love to do a musical. A big, fun
song-and-dance piece,” she smiles. Q
Gentleman Jack will air on BBC1 later this spring
Above, from top:
Jones, on right, as
“Gentleman Jack” Anne
Lister, with de facto wife
Ann Walker, played by
Sophie Rundle; Jones
strides out in character.
Left: Suranne wears silk
dress, from £1,250, Nina
Ricci. Diamond earrings,
£7,200, Noor Fares
95
ARTS & CULTURE
HEART
STRINGS
Cellist and singer Kelsey Lu’s debut album
is an ode to roots, religion and the healing
power of music, says Hayley Maitland
K
elsey Lu has been up all night
sequencing her debut album,
Blood, and is still in work
mode when she arrives,
clutching a notebook full of ideas, for
our interview at the Nobu Hotel in
Shoreditch. She may not have slept, but
she looks immaculate in a vintage
Helmut Lang slip, logoed Gucci tights
and a pair of snakeskin cowboy boots
from Marfa, Texas. “Plus a bootstrap that
I took from a lover,” she adds, dreamily.
Lu’s haunting pop music has
captivated the fashion world just as
Her unusual much as her style has. The classically
combination trained African-American cellist – who
lives in LA, but is in London for a gig
of punchy at the Southbank Centre before she
millennial heads to Milan to give a private concert
– has produced soundtracks for Grace
wokeness and Wales Bonner’s shows and is a known
old-souled face on front rows from Gucci to Kenzo.
No wonder there’s so much hype around
Above right: Lu performing at
the Brooklyn Artists Ball in 2017.
flower child Blood, due out this spring after more
Above: front row at Gucci is winning than three years in the making.
96
Raised by devout Jehovah’s Witness
parents in Charlotte, North Carolina,
Lu’s past is a far cry from her present.
“I was going door-to-door before I could
walk,” she grins. Her faith prohibited
her from watching TV, socialising with
anyone outside the church or wearing
any outfit deemed “revealing”. Music
was her only outlet. “My mother and
father both played instruments,” she
says. “There was always a record on in
our house, whether it was Joni Mitchell
or crazy Afro-Cuban percussion.”
Her father, an artist whose family
hailed from Nigeria, bartered his works
with teachers to get her music lessons
from the age of six. By her 18th birthday,
she was an accomplished cellist – and
decided to leave religion behind, a
choice that “totally isolated me from my
family for a long period” but one she
describes as “a matter of life and death”.
Ten years later, she’s on good terms with
her parents again. “I finally got what it
must have been like for them, trying to
make ends meet as African-Americans
living in the South, and the kind of hope
the Church must have provided.”
In the decade since, Lu has performed
with a hip-hop quartet between stints
as an exotic dancer, and collaborated
with the likes of Solange, Kelela and
Sampha. Her unusual combination of
punchy millennial wokeness – speaking
eloquently about everything from her
bisexuality to the pitfalls of tokenism
– and old-souled flower child (“In the
end, it’s all just about love”) is winning.
But the notion of roots remains
pertinent for her. She recorded her first
EP, Church, live at Brooklyn’s Holy
Family Roman Catholic church.
“Churches are strangely exotic to me,
because Jehovah’s Witnesses only ever
worship in Kingdom Halls,” she says.
Her new album is nothing short of
mesmeric – not to mention highly
TYLER MITCHELL/ART PARTNER; GETTY IMAGES
personal. Take “Pushing Against the
Wind”, a song honouring her father,
written during a thunderstorm after a
“healing” ayahuasca ceremony (naturally).
The record, she explains, is “a sort of
exorcism of my personal demons and a
homecoming all at once”. Does she feel
a sense of closure now the album is finally
about to drop? “Hell, no,” she replies,
laughing. “This is just the beginning.” Q
Blood, by Kelsey Lu, will be released on
Columbia Records later this spring
 LIVING
“It’s a limited-edition piece, but
I want to get my hands on German
artist Silke Otto-Knapp’s hand-woven
Global Face flatweave rug for House of Voltaire.”
Serum, £75,
Lina Hanson,
at Content Rug, £1,200,
Beauty & Silke Otto-Knapp
Wellbeing for House of
Voltaire

“I’m growing more

and more conscious of
how everything I buy is
made, and Lina Hanson’s Suede top, £805.
skincare is hand-crafted, Shorts, £1,135.
organic and all natural.” Both Longchamp

Towelling bag,
£2,475, Chanel

“At the reimagined

Longchamp show
in New York, the
house’s classic bags
were revamped
and matched with
“For summer, the a new collection

LIFE & STYLE

classic Chanel bag of garments.”
gets the towelling
treatment, and I’ll
take anything that
brings me closer to
a tropical beach.”
Impatient for summer, Julia Sarr-Jamois
is dreaming of the tropics

“I’m obsessed with this tropical-print sofa,

which would be perfect in my dream
mid-century Los Angeles home.”

“The Christopher
Kane collection
featured some of the
most mind-blowing
fabrics of the season –
this material looks like
tie-dyed chainmail.”
Skirt, £2,795,
Christopher Kane
Sofa, from £14,000, JP Demeyer
“Christina Tung’s
brand Svnr stands
for souvenir – her
handmade, upcycled
earrings remind me
of the keepsakes I find
on holidays.” Earring,
from £90, Svnr
ELGORT; NATHANIEL GOLDBERG; CRAIG
MCDEAN; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ
DAVID BAILEY; CORINNE DAY; ARTHUR

Global Face Trio, £60,

Lina Hanson, at Content
Beauty & Wellbeing
“It’s not easy to find a
chic slide, but The Row
nails it with this pair, its
ropes forming a frame
around the foot.”

Leather sandals, £700, The Row, at Matchesfashion.com

 INTERIORS

Artistic stronghold
An artist and an art collector are revitalising
country-house style in a turreted castle in Angus.
By Talib Choudhry. Photographs by Kate Martin

I
ced with white render and topped with turrets, the house
looks fairytale-like from the approach through acres of
manicured grounds, the perfectly striped lawns, centuries-
old trees and ornamental hedges the result of an ongoing
battle to tame the wild beauty of the surrounding Scottish
countryside. The only noise is the rushing of the river that
snakes past the house and of dogs barking in the distance.
The lady of the house, the artist Indre Serpytyte-Roberts,
can be found taking her leisurely daily walk around the grounds
with the gamekeeper’s dogs, her cheeks flushed as she ushers
us into the entrance hall. Although the house is grand in
scale, with flagstone floors and soaring ceilings, the deep-grey
walls and a considered smattering
of contemporary art are a departure “Although
from the imposing architecture. It’s
the first sign that this is less a trad
it looks
Above: Indre Serpytyte-
country pile and more a bolthole for grand, it’s
Roberts roams the sprawling a modern, cultured crowd. not pompous.
gardens of her Scottish estate, “Although the exterior looks grand,
wearing a suit by Alex Eagle.
Right: the comfortable sitting
it’s not pompous,” says Serpytyte- Everyone
room boasts a Stella Vine
painting of Kate Moss entitled
Roberts, of the country retreat comments on
in Angus that she shares with her
Holy Water Cannot Help You
Now (Kate Moss), 2006 husband, the art collector and property how homely
developer David Roberts. “Anyone > it feels”
103
 Clockwise from
below: open fires
in the bedrooms
engender cosiness;
the river was
incorporated in the
garden design and
a pond added in the
1800s; Stella Vine’s
Lady Hamilton and
Wonder Woman,
both 2005, add pep
to the hallway; Indre
takes a daily walk
through the grounds

Roberts has been collecting for a number of years. They met

who stays always comments on how homely it feels.” Having
“We’re searched for a home in Scotland for five years, the couple
weaving visited the estate in 2016 on the suggestion of the Swiss
contemporary gallerist Iwan Wirth, who recently opened a hotel in Braemar.
“Iwan said, ‘I think this place might be for you’ – and we
art into the loved it,” says Serpytyte-Roberts, who spends most of her
history of the time in their late-Victorian house in Fitzrovia. The Scottish
castle is steeped in history. An original 15th-century lodge
house, which was significantly modified in the 17th and 19th centuries; the
is really fun” romantic exterior was dreamt up in the 1800s. The upshot is
a layered mash-up of architectural styles. “We are just guardians
of the house and are looking after it for a time,” says Serpytyte-
Roberts. “It’s not part of our family history, but we are trying
to love it as if it has been ours for many years.”
That outlook extends to the interiors. “We haven’t done
much to it because I like seeing what’s happened here before,”
adds Serpytyte-Roberts. “But we’re bringing our own passion
into it by weaving contemporary art into the history of the
house, which is really fun. It’s interesting to see new art in
the context of historical paintings and antiques.” The couple
made the decision to hang only work by women, which
104
when he bought a photographic work from Serpytyte-
Roberts’s MA show at the Royal College of Art in 2009, and
soon after, her entire body of work.
The display in their Angus home is impressively broad.
Work from graduate shows and lesser-known galleries is
mixed with pieces by established female artists such as Cindy
Sherman, Rita Ackermann and Phyllida Barlow. Bold works
by Stella Vine – one featuring Wonder Woman, the other
Kate Moss – add pep to the hallway and the sitting room
respectively. The sassy juxtaposition and strong pop-culture
symbolism have exactly the effect that Serpytyte-Roberts
desired: “We decided to hang them because they were upbeat,
distinctive and completely different from the whole house.”
Elsewhere, the naive colours of Vine’s canvases are reflected
in the blue-and-white checked floor of the kitchen, where
a scrubbed table is laden with hearty produce. High tea and
high jinks are on the menu here, too, for a regular stream
of house guests including Alex Eagle, the founder of the
lifestyle boutique The Store, and Marie-Louise Sciò, CEO
and director of the Pellicano hotels.
Meals are served on charmingly mismatched china from
the forgotten cupboards that Serpytyte-Roberts has sifted
through and reorganised; a collection of now gleaming
decanters is displayed on the mantelpiece of the dining room,
which is often filled with weekend guests. “We spend a lot
of the summer here and like to come throughout the year,”
says Indre. “We’re trying to use the house in different ways,
by inviting people to enjoy it and take something from it.
We’re considering hosting residencies for writers, curators
and artists, because it’s so quiet, and the perfect place for
 INTERIORS
Clockwise from left: (1944-1991),
the title of the artist’s ongoing series
depicting buildings used by the
KGB; the kitchen, where meals are
served on mismatched china;
sculptural topiary in the grounds;
Indre with the gamekeeper’s dogs

media including sculpture,

film, audio and choreography
to explore issues of history and
trauma. Much of her work has
addressed the recent past of
Lithuania. In the ongoing series
of textile works, From.Between.
To, she takes traditional woven
In high summer, the gardens
boast azalea and laburnum sashes or juosta from across
flowers. Right, from top: the Baltic states, which serve
Phyllida Barlow’s Individual
Chair (2006) hangs below
to mark important life events,
Dianne Kaufman oil nudes; reimagining them in unexpected
Tala Madani’s Boxed Head colours. “A lot of my work is
(2011) is hung on a stairway
about Lithuania and the Baltics
because, after moving at such
creativity and thinking. We have Wi-Fi only in one room a young age, in a way I try to find where I’m from and
and no television. It’s so freeing not to be constantly connected. establish a connection. I think remembrance is a very
I’m making more and more work here,” she adds. important thing,” she says.
Serpytyte-Roberts is a trustee of the David Roberts Art But so is embracing new countries. Indre has taken to
Foundation and Art360, and is passionate about supporting David’s native Scotland with enthusiasm, making over the
young creatives. She lived in a seaside town in Lithuania house with a sprinkling of new furniture – good, comfortable
until the age of 14, born under a Soviet regime that valued sofas and practical low tables, “things that you use every day
traditional vocations over the arts. “Going to college to and need” – and refurbishing existing pieces. “It was a huge
study photography in the UK, aged 16, was an eye-opener job to get used to the house, how we could use it, what we
– I would never have had that opportunity in Lithuania,” should keep. It’s a great responsibility, and I think now we
says Indre, who moved to Cornwall as a teenager after her are at a point where we are enjoying it.”
mother married an Englishman. “I think the move made Cue a series of outdoor sculptures by Anthony Caro and
me able to reflect on what we went through. My family Mark Wallinger, which are starting to bring the grounds to
history is embedded with war and with loss, so that’s life. Much of the landscaping and the meticulously clipped
definitely where ideas for my work stem from. Childhood shrubs and hedges already have a dramatic, sculptural quality,
stories I heard about uncles being sent to Siberia, all those Indre says: “Some of them look like Henry Moores, but
traumatic things that happened, are reflected in my work. they’ve been years in the making. I love the gardens; the
It just comes from within me. I can’t control it.” sound of the river is just so meditative. We discover something
Serpytyte-Roberts is known primarily for her photography, new each time we come.” Q
but she also employs archival material and experiments in From.Between.To opens at Parafin gallery, W1, on 5 April
 L E T ’S M A K E
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 LIVING

C hef David Gingell and I are sitting at the bar

of Jolene, his restaurant in Stoke Newington and the latest
opening from the team behind hotspots Primeur and Westerns
Laundry, our plates piled with nothing but thick slabs of
bread – bread made from flour milled in the kitchen just
behind us, which is kneaded into dough and left overnight
to rise, before being baked in an Italian-made oven, the
steam ensuring a perfect, crisp mahogany crust. It has a tender,
springy crumb and malty aroma; sharp yet also tantalisingly
sweet. This is bread made using the same grains and methods
employed by our ancestors; bread that for millennia was so
fundamental to existence it became the symbol of harvest,
money, nourishment – the force of life itself.
“For centuries, bread was often the only thing people ate
in a day – only the very rich would dip it into something
– so it had to be delicious and chewy and complex,” says
Gingell. Yet today, reaching for the bread basket in a
restaurant feels positively subversive, punctuated by sharp
intakes of breath and carb-shaming murmurs of “you’re
brave”. Everyone from Dr Atkins to William Davis (of Wheat
Belly fame) has warned us, in no uncertain terms, that not
only would it make us fat, its evil glutinous proteins were
also likely to wreck our guts and immune systems. Even
when artisanal bakeries began to flourish – with a Gail’s in
every Nappy Valley – the occasional seeded roll dunked into
soup was still regarded as a decadent treat.
But the wilderness years are over. Like Cher or Hugh
Grant, bread is making a comeback. Practitioners such as
Gingell, and Leo Campbell and Melissa Sharp of Oxford-
based Modern Baker, are championing “slow-carb baking”,
producing loaves that not only taste of something other
than soggy tissues but also – hallelujah! – merit superfood
status. “Bread made industrially is spectacularly bad for
digestion,” says Campbell, “but properly made, bread acts
ON THE RISE
A fresh batch of bakers is turning
like a probiotic and can be really good for us.”
Campbell and Sharp’s bread enjoys a lengthy fermentation bread from tabletop villain to superfood.
process that results in a low-glycaemic index, reducing blood- Julia Llewellyn Smith renounces carb-
sugar levels, while also enabling our bodies to absorb the
maximum amount of minerals from the wheat. Along with free living. Photograph by Nacho Alegre
fellow innovators such as Fergus Jackson of Peckham’s Brick
House Bakery, the bakers are reviving time-tested methods in-house stone mill. “Just as people expect coffee from beans
and using ancient grains – such as einkorn, packed with ground in front of them, so they’ll soon want their bread to
antioxidants and protein (perfect for vegans), and fibre-laden come from freshly milled wheat. The flavours are more intense
Khorasan wheat – that, like wine, are infused with the minerally and it retains more antioxidants,” Cato says.
flavours of the terroir, or environment, it’s grown in. We need no longer wave away the beige stuff. At Jolene
“Our wheat originally grew in marshes along the Nile, and you can even enjoy wheat-based treats such as a flaky
because the roots grew almost 5ft down, it had 60 per cent croissant or a bowl of fresh pasta, while Modern Baker has
more minerals than current wheats that were designed to be developed “healthy” chocolate-chip biscuits (yes, really).
fed chemically from above,” says Andy Cato, formerly half “When people first taste our products, you see relief wash
of Groove Armada, whose organic farm in Gascony supplies over them,” Sharp laughs. “They say, ‘Thank you! We
Jolene’s grains. This wheat is transformed into flour in Jolene’s thought we’d never be able to eat bread again.’” Q
109
 MR VOGUE
SLUG

AMAZING PACE
With his high-fashion looks and outspoken views, footballer
Héctor Bellerín is breaking the modern sportsman mould, finds Ellie
Pithers. Photograph by Tom Hoops. Styling by Florence Arnold

B
ritish football scandals are usually sparked by a grainy snap of a
player snorting a suspicious substance in a soupy Mayfair nightclub
or kissing someone who definitely isn’t his wife. But in December
2018, when a photograph of the Arsenal footballer Héctor
Bellerín went viral, the furore centred on a pair of micro-sunglasses.
“A lot of people didn’t get it,” the Spanish defender explains, smiling,
when I ask about the image, taken when he was watching his team
from the stands. In it, he is wearing a Burberry trench coat and
scarf, hair pulled into a ponytail, Blyszak sunnies perched on
the end of his nose. “I know a lot of people who support
football teams don’t care about fashion. For them, it can
be quite weird to see someone looking very different,”
he reasons. “But I’ve learnt not to read the comments.”
It’s a wise move. The 23-year-old’s Maison
Margiela PVC trench coats, Prada bucket hats
and double denim combinations are
frequently met with an abusive response
from fans. A fixture on the front row at
A Cold Wall and Christopher Raeburn,
he’s also regularly upbraided for “not
focusing on his football”. His
response? Train hard, play well and
wear something even more cutting-
edge. “I’m living my life the way I
want to live it, and not the way
people think I should,” he says.
If his clothing choices are unexpected,
then so are his outspoken views on everything
from climate change to education, delivered in a mellifluous
Cockney-meets-Catalonia accent. The son of a pattern-cutter mother
and a father who worked in insurance, he trained at Barcelona between
the ages of eight and 16, when he came to London to play for Arsenal.
He quickly broke into the first team – and, in keeping with football
tradition, bought a Gucci belt and Louis Vuitton wash bag. “I went to
Westfield, I was so excited!” he laughs. “Now, I’m more careful. I’ve learnt
that money comes very quickly, but it leaves even quicker.”
Bellerín’s first major purchase was a house for his parents in Spain.
He bought a Mercedes, but traded it in for a more eco-friendly second-
hand Tesla. In his spare time, he completed a marketing diploma, set
up a marketing agency with his housemate and invested in property.
“I was taught that education is the most important thing,” he recalls.
“You need a back-up plan.” It’s a philosophy that will stand him in
good stead as he recovers from a knee injury that will sideline him
for nine months.
Football is still Bellerín’s first love. If he loses a game, he can’t sleep.
Yoga, meditation and a vegan diet are all coping mechanisms for the
pressure. He spends weekends at art galleries and, although he has
largely curbed his shopping habit, he didn’t hold back on a recent Wool jacket, from
trip to Machine-A in Soho. “I got some very nice Raf Simons for £1,740. Matching
trousers, from £570.
Calvin Klein stuff,” he says sheepishly. “He’s a genius!” He’d love Both Givenchy.
to work in fashion post-retirement, and is currently completing a Poloneck, £155,
university course in branding and styling. “The creative process excites John Smedley.
Jewellery, his own.
me. As a kid I used to paint for, like, time. My mum bought me some Grooming:
painting things recently. It’s about what makes you happy.” Q Tyler Johnston

XXX
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 VIEWPOINT

HOLD THE MOMENT

Five women recall the overwhelming surprise, joy and anxiety of
becoming a mother for the first time. Illustrations by Damien Cuypers
Pandora Delevingne
The second you become a mother, your year later to the day, we married. And first days at school; all of which seem
emotional centre of gravity shifts. My another year later to the day, our like yesterday to me. I had to stay with
three daughters all have extraordinary daughter Chloe was born. I could Chloe – fiercely intelligent even then,
characters and extraordinary lives. I hardly believe that this little person preferring to sit quietly and look at a
struggle to keep track of which country was mine for keeps; I had what I had book. Poppy, on the other hand, was
they are in, but still wake in the night fantasised about for all those years. the ultimate girls’ girl, making friends
worrying about them. Cara will text, At the same time, there’s no denying immediately and waving me off at the
“Flying back to London!” And I’ll reply, that having my first baby was a complete door. And then there was Cara, always
“From where?!” To the world, she’s a shock. It’s a spectacular and terrifying fearless, marching through the school
supermodel and actress, but to me she’s responsibility to be a parent – you have gates without a backward glance. It’s a
still the little girl who insisted on someone who cannot live without you. Sometimes I look at them – so different
wearing her football jersey everywhere. It’s pretty heavy, actually. Yet that’s and yet so close – and wonder how on spectacular
Even as a child, all I ever wanted nothing compared to the joy you get earth I got so lucky. All I can say to any and terrifying
was to be a mother. I met my husband, from watching your children grow. expectant parent is this: savour every
Charles, at Royal Ascot when I was 22 Each of my girls had her own distinct moment. The only downside to new responsibility
and I fell in love with him instantly. A personality from the start. Take their motherhood is that it goes too quickly. > to be a parent

Sharon Stone
I found out I was going to be a parent
the day after I lost my child. It was
2000, and my then husband and I had
had a series of devastating late-term
miscarriages. On our final attempt to
have a baby naturally, I had to go
through painful surgery –
and 36 hours of labour – to
deliver a stillborn. It was on
our way home afterwards,
one of the darkest moments
of my life, that I got a call
from an adoption lawyer:
he had a client with a baby
boy due in a few weeks.
Would I be his mother?
I felt as if God was
throwing me a life raft. Six
I worried weeks later, I listened over
constantly, the phone to my son Roan
being born, in keeping
but there with the terms of our
was no need. closed adoption. From the
moment I held him, I was
Babies speak in awe. I sat by his bassinet
a language through the night just to
watch him sleep. Like most
all mothers first-time parents, I worried
are fluent in constantly, but there was
116
no need. Babies speak a language all
mothers are instinctively fluent in,
whether or not a child is biologically
related to them. I immediately knew
the difference between his various cries
and what it was he wanted from me.
Just as remarkable was how much
being a mother taught me about myself.
Every detail in my life became a little
more magical just because I was sharing
it with him. I remember lifting him up
to a flower, and saying, “I cannot tell
you how long I have waited for you to
get here so that I could show you this.”
I’m now a single mother with three
adopted sons, and it has been the great
privilege of my life to raise them. When
you adopt, you realise any child could
be your child, any person could be your
relative. After that you never see the
world in the same way again. I’m
connected to everyone on this planet.
And that’s a miracle in and of itself.
Diane von Furstenberg
When I became pregnant with my first
child at 22, I had no idea how to be a
mother. I simply became one. I had just
become engaged to Prince Egon von
Fürstenberg, the greatest catch in
Europe at the time. I put on the
diamond ring and thought, “How
wonderful!” without believing we were
going to get married any time soon. I
did, however, spend the night with him.
I remember telling him I would give
him a son. I meant it to be seductive;
instead, it turned out to be prophetic.
A few weeks later, I fainted in the
Piazza San Babila in Milan. I was
pregnant. I ran home to my mother in a
panic and said, “Everybody will say I
did it on purpose.” She told me to relax
and tell Egon. So, I sent him a telegram.
He replied, “Organise marriage in Paris
July 15.” It was May. I was furious.
How dare he tell me what to do?
In the next few months, I organised a
wedding and made plans to move to
New York with my future
husband. I worried that
motherhood would keep
me from starting the
business I had dreamt of,
but in fact being pregnant
forced me to concentrate
on my goals. By the time
Alexander was born, I had
effectively launched my
brand. Along the way, I
spoke constantly to the
little person in my belly
about what was going on,
and when I gave birth, he
felt like an old confidant.
My daughter, Tatiana,
followed a year later. There’s
a photograph of me, Egon
and the children back then
and our combined ages
were less than 50. But these
little people had come out

of me so we became friends, and we’ve
been friends ever since. Your children
are an extension of yourself. All you can
do is love them no matter what.
Sarah Harris
To say I didn’t rush into motherhood
is an understatement. Although I’ve
been married for 14 years, I had my
daughter, Dree, only 18 months ago, at
the tail end of my thirties – a time when
questions like, “Do you want children?”
begin to dry up, because the consensus
is your ovaries probably have.
The truth is, I never particularly
pined to be a parent; sure, I thought it
might happen one day, but I was never
in any hurry, mostly because the idea
of pregnancy and delivery had always
terrified me. (For unexplained reasons,
I’m always the person everyone tells
their labour horror story to.) And then
I was pregnant. (As it turned out, I
was fortunate to have an incredibly
easy pregnancy, only really feeling or
looking pregnant in the last eight
weeks, while a planned C-section –
which I highly recommend – soon
scuppered crippling labour fears.)
I didn’t read one pregnancy book,
download a trimester app, change my
diet or attend a single antenatal class. I
went about my life as usual (just eating
a lot more oranges, my only craving).
And then she arrived, my instant
best friend, all 8lb 4oz of her, and life
as I knew it ceased to exist. Well, not
entirely. Yes, spontaneity flies out of
the window – I’ve had to get to grips
with schedules – but it changes as
much as you want it to. I still work
(after seven months’ maternity leave
wearing nothing fancier than a
tracksuit, I came back to a promotion);
I still travel for the twice-yearly
ready-to-wear collections. Dree
sometimes comes with me to Paris,
if only for a weekend.
Sleep deprivation is real – and I’m
lucky, Dree has slept through the night
for a solid 12 hours since she was three
months old; but weekend lie-ins are a
distant memory. I miss them.
But it’s a small price to pay to discover
that your favourite scent in the world is
that of your newborn’s wispy, super-soft
hair; the best sound those creaky baby
dinosaur noises they make when they
are sleeping at a few weeks old. She’s
exhausting. It’s exhausting. But an
hour after she goes to bed, when I have
a longed-for moment of freedom, I
always feel like waking her up again,
just so we can hang some more.
Slick Woods
Last September, I closed New York
Fashion Week modelling in Rihanna’s
Savage x Fenty show in pasties, thigh-
highs, stilettos, and not much else.
There were crazy interpretive dancers,
as well as the Hadid sisters and a
VIEWPOINT
jungle installation – all pretty normal
for an event hosted by Rihanna. The
I understood
weird part was that I was in labour the true power
while it was all going down.
I was nearly in my last trimester
of my body…
when I found out I was going to have a that if I could
baby. I’d always been told I would never bring another
be able to have a child naturally, and it
was only when my agent told me I was human being
looking kind of chubby in my bikini at into this
Coachella that I visited my doctor.
A few appointments later, a nurse world, nothing
was doing a sonogram. There he was out
was: my son. I started crying
tears of joy. I had life in me, and
of reach
felt like I understood the true
power of my body for the first
time. If I could bring another
human being into this world,
nothing was out of reach.
My last memory before going
into the hospital is of Rihanna
spanking me with a whip. I was
already 2cm dilated when I left
the show, and I was in labour for
another 18 hours. The delivery
room was out of control. There
was my agent and my baby’s
daddy and Erykah Badu on
FaceTime, acting as my doula.
Then suddenly there he was: my
miracle. I have no words for
what it felt like to hold him for
the first time.
Every day since, my son has
healed me, invigorated me – and
helped me come to terms with my
past. I never had a normal family.
Now I’ve created my own. Who
knew you could miss someone
your whole damn life without
ever having met them? Q
armanibeauty.co.uk Cate Blanchett
 fiori
the new eau de parfum
TECH
“With personalised
beads, these
earphones not only
“This smart food look great, but also
blender sends have a built-in mic.”
the nutritional Sacai Special
information of all Edition BeatsX
the ingredients Earphones, £129.95,
you use to a at Apple.com
special app on
your phone.”
Nutribullet
Balance, £150, at
Johnlewis.com

“Body Ballancer is a lymphatic

massage system designed to improve
circulation and reduce water retention.
You can try it at the Harrods spa [from
£50], and it’s like a sleeping bag with
air pockets that move over your body.”
From £6,840, Bodyballancer.co.uk

FAVOURITE
PODCAST
“I really love
Oprah’s SuperSoul
Conversations. When
I listen to Oprah talk,
it feels like I’m feeding
my soul goodness.”

“I use my Facegym Pro in the

evening – it gives your facial
muscles a workout with electrical
stimulation.” £429, Facegym.com

STYLING: JACK BORKETT. HAIR: CARL CAMPBELL. MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE. NAILS: LYNDSAY MCINTOSH
“A 45-minute
infrared sauna
session –
promising
enhanced
circulation,
increased collagen
production and
improved sleep
– at the gorgeous
Glow Bar in
the West End?
Yes please!”
Infrared sauna
session, £40,
MY DIGITAL
Glowbarldn.com

FAVOURITE
HEALTH “My son Riley loves to
learn, and this holographic
APP Model and actress Jourdan Dunn on the cube – which can be paired
with VR/AR goggles – works
“Meditation and tech she uses to enrich her life and be kind to with an app to bring games
wellbeing are a
big part of my life, her body and mind. Edited by Dena Giannini. and knowledge to the palm
of your hand. It’s for kids
and whenever I’m
travelling, my
Photograph by Nicole Maria Winkler aged 10 and above,
but I love it, too!”
go-to meditation Merge Cube, £25, at
app is Calm.” Amazon.co.uk
SPOTLIGHT
Shirt and trousers,
to order, Pyer Moss.
Brocade shoes,
£1,050, Roger Vivier.
Hoop earrings,
from £85, Tuza.
Hair: Shingo Shibata.
Make-up: Jen Myles.
Nails: Ami Vega. Model:
Hiandra Martinez
THIS IS
AMERICA
Kerby Jean-Raymond,
founder of Pyer Moss, has
big plans to deliver his
mighty vision of US fashion
to the world. By Alex Frank.
Photographs by Amy Troost.
Styling by Stella Greenspan

A
t the small Manhattan HQ
of Pyer Moss, reggae is
playing softly over the
speakers, and the smell of
pine is radiating from a candle on the
desk of the company’s founder and
designer, Kerby Jean-Raymond. But
though the 32-year-old designer has
created a relaxed aura in here – he says
he aims for a “Sunday morning vibe” in
the office – it is where he is developing
his plans for world domination. Beyond
the success of his brand, which has
now been running for six years and
was awarded $400,000 as the winner of
the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund,
Jean-Raymond – handsome and slim,
with almond eyes and a bushy beard –
wants to create his own holding company,
an umbrella of American fashion brands
to rival major conglomerates such as
LVMH. When asked why, as a designer
just coming into his own, he is already
thinking ahead to the biggest of big-
picture ideas, his answer is simple:
“Why shouldn’t I?”
That ambitious question has guided
Jean-Raymond’s career. With Pyer
Moss, he has built a brand both
dedicated to and reverent of what he
feels has been neglected in the world of
high fashion: the black American
experience. For his collections, which
he terms “spiritual sportswear”, he has
created renderings of his Haitian
immigrant father’s wardrobe, and
collaborated with the streetwear brands
he wore in his youth (such as Fubu and
Cross Colours). He makes smartly
cropped tailoring for men, breezy yet
sophisticated dresses and roomy, sporty
trousers for women, all in a confident
primary-coloured palette.
 “Everything I’ve done has been
personal,” explains Jean-Raymond,
whose runway shows are joyous –
typically featuring a full gospel choir
performing renditions of classics such
as Aretha Franklin’s “Ain’t No Way”. He
held his spring/summer ’19 show in the
Brooklyn neighborhood of Weeksville,
one of America’s first communities built
for freed black landowners after the
abolition of slavery, and collaborated
with the artist Derrick Adams on
paintings that appeared on clothing,
such as a dress beaded with a glittering
image of a father cradling a young baby.
“Black people are portrayed tragically
too often,” he says. “I want to show
things in another way.”
Jean-Raymond grew up only about
10 miles from the office he now
inhabits, but explains it was a cultural
world away – an ungentrified slice of
deepest Brooklyn. His mother died
when he was seven, and he was mostly
raised by his father in a one-bedroom
apartment. During middle school, he
got knifed in the nose while defending
a friend. A small scar is still visible, but
“I’m lucky – I could’ve been blinded,”
he says. It was during that time, he
thinks, that he developed his insatiable
hustle: he got his first job at a local
sneaker shop at 13, using forged papers
to say he was old enough to work legally.
JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS
“I started working not out of choice,
but necessity. My dad would give me
$10 each morning, and that was it for
food for the day,” he says.
Soon, though, Jean-Raymond found
his way to a high school in Manhattan
that specialised in fashion, where he
was surrounded by wealthier kids
and a creative atmosphere. “Being in
Manhattan opened up my
eyes. I saw what was possible.”
He landed an internship with
department-store favourite
Kay Unger, before opening
and shuttering a series of
small brands, trying different
things without any of them
really sticking until 2013,
when a camo leather jacket
he designed ended up on Rihanna.
It received so much press that he
quickly built a company around the
momentum, combining his mother’s
American and Haitian last names to
create the name Pyer Moss.
New ideas were inspired by real-world
events. By 2015, the Black Lives Matter
movement was ascendant, and cable
news was awash with grainy filmed
accounts of black Americans being
killed, like “snuff films being played
all day, every day”, as Jean-Raymond
remembers it. In the same year, he
himself was on the wrong side of a trio
of cops’ guns after NYPD officers in
Queens mistook a cast he was wearing
on his arm as a weapon. “I’d had a gun
held on me before, but this was the first
time I thought they’d shoot,” he recalls.
Having always been interested in
politics, Jean-Raymond found that the
shock of the times gave him clarity in
his work. He put everything that had
been swirling in his head on the runway,
creating a show for spring/summer ’16
that featured boots splattered with red
paint to give the impression of blood
stains, a jacket spray-painted with the
word “Breathe” in homage to Eric
Garner (who was captured on film being
put in a fatal chokehold by the NYPD
in 2014), and a video Jean-Raymond
produced with clips of police violence
cut against interviews with the families
of victims. By putting his point of view
right on the runway, he says that he
scared away some retail buyers who
were uncomfortable with the direction,
but he gained a devoted following.
“I felt like I had nothing to lose.”
A subtler depiction of his ethos is now
underway. Jean-Raymond designed his
last two Pyer Moss seasons as part of a
series he calls “American, Also”, which
attempts to understand the place of black
Top left and above:
lives in US history and contemporary looks from the Pyer
life. He has pulled inspiration, for Moss spring/
summer ’19 show.
instance, from 19th-century black Top right: Kerby
cowboys. “Black people have been at the Jean-Raymond
heart of so many things that people think
of as ‘white’,” he says. “Black people
deserve to be patriotic, too.” He began
collaborating with Reebok in 2017,
and is now developing a standalone label
within the sneaker company (something
similar to what Yohji Yamamoto, one
of his heroes, has created with Y-3 at
Adidas). And though winning the
CFDA last year was undoubtedly a
confidence boost, Jean-Raymond says
he’s known for some time that Pyer Moss
is going to work, that he is at the dawn
of the next great American brand.
How is he so sure? “Because,” he says
with a steely deadpan, “I just am.” Q
125
HAIR: JOSH KNIGHT. MAKE UP: LUCY JOAN PEARSON. SET: PENNY MILLS.
MODELS: MOUNA FADIGA, KARINA KOZIONOVA, HANNAH WICK, SHAHIRA YUSUF
 VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

EYE
CANDY
Whether you choose baroque
inspired prints or intricate filigree
details, the message in eyewear this
season is clear: Go opulent, ornate
and oversized. Dolce & Gabbana’s
Devotion collection offers the perfect
pieces. Photographs by Benjamin
Vnuk. Styling by Poppy Kain

Opposite: sunglasses, price on request. Brocade jacket with embroidered flowers, £15,700. Both Dolce & Gabbana
This page: sunglasses, price on request. Patchwork fabrics dress, £18,550. Both Dolce & Gabbana. Rose- and leopard-printed scarf,
£215, Dolce & Gabbana at Matchesfashion.com
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

This page: sunglasses, price on request. Pinstriped jacket in viscose with revers in brocade, £1,850. Both Dolce & Gabbana
Opposite: sunglasses, price on request. Patchwork fabrics A-line dress, £2,350. Flower jacquard jacket with jewel buttons,
£4,250. All Dolce & Gabbana. Scarf, £215, Dolce & Gabbana at Matchesfashion.com
 ALL NEW
Your spring/
summer
beauty book
is coming

ON SALE NOW
BEAUTY | FAS H I O N | E N T E R TA I N M E N T | EMPOWERMENT

GLAMOUR.COM
 CHECKLIST

NEUTRAL
GROUND
From cream and biscuit to caramel
and coffee, deliciously muted hues
are the key to springtime dressing.
Edited by Holly Roberts
PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GRIBBEN. SET DESIGN: VICENTE BEN

BACK TO NATURE
Giorgio Armani’s look this season presents a soft yet strong silhouette to be worn with
ease, and these earrings, £260, are no exception. Their modern geometric shape creates
a contrast with the organic feel of the marbled shell – perfect for spring soirées. >
 Vogue, 
October 1989
Jacket, £249,
Luisa Cerano

Skirt, £690,
Holland
& Holland

Stacking
rings set,
£169,
Trench coat,
Swarovski
£575, Boss

Sweet spot
Nestled in the heart of
Piccadilly – and offering
the ideal blend of
tradition and modernity
– renowned chef Albert
Adrià’s latest launch,
Cakes & Bubbles, serves
exquisite desserts paired
with a carefully curated
selection of champagnes.

Mules, £84, Michael

Michael Kors

Blouse, £395, Zaeem Jamal

Trousers,
£34.99,
Reserved

132
 CHECKLIST

Tumbler, £65
Nude X Iris Pendant,
Apfel £1,700, Tasaki
Dress, £1,245,
Victoria Beckham

Earrings,
£113, Kate Spade
New York

Boots, Vogue, April 1926

£490, Iro
Vogue, November 2010

Age Perfect
Manuka
Honey Serum,
£19.99,
L’Oréal Paris
EDUARDO BENITO; NEIL KIRK; ALASDAIR MCLELLAN

New classic
Ralph Lauren
has introduced Nude wool
the RL50 coat, £395,
handbag, £2,045, Gerard Darel
in a gorgeous
golden tan
leather – a new
icon silhouette
merging codes
from the
brand’s rich
heritage.

133
From left: Vincent
wears gabardine
minidress, £1,009,
Attico. Paloma
wears duchesse-
satin cape, £870,
MM6 Maison
Margiela. Meghan
wears jersey dress,
£1,045, Ellery, at
Farfetch.com. Hair:
Ward Stegerhoek.
Make-up: Diane
Kendal. Models:
Vincent Beier,
Paloma Elsesser,
Meghan Roche

THE ILLUSIONISTS
Does the perfect foundation now exist?
Quite possibly, says Jessica Diner.
Photographs by Richard Burbridge.
Styling by Stella Greenspan
 BEAUTY
Edited by Jessica Diner

135
BEAUTY

I
s it too much to hope that all our foundation needs could
be met with one product? Light to the touch, invisible,
but consistent and long-lasting when it comes to coverage?
Well, technology has now caught up with our demands.
perfect match can still be complex; nevertheless it is imperative,
so take pride in the prep work.
“You really need good light,” explains make-up artist Lisa
Eldridge. “Take off all your make-up, go to a cosmetics
RICHARD BURBRIDGE; PIXELATE.BIZ

From top: Clarins Skin But the new wave of complexion enhancers are not tinted counter, find what you think is your shade and then go for
Illusion Natural Hydrating moisturisers, they are not “full-on” foundations, nor are they a walk outside. Let it settle, let it oxidise, look at it in natural
Foundation, £30.
Hourglass Illusion BB or CC creams. They are a little bit of all of the above. daylight. Don’t feel obliged to make your decision there and
Hyaluronic Skin Tint, £51. They have the colour-correcting capabilities of a full-coverage then. It’s OK to go back.” And the perfect part of the face
Clinique Moisture Surge
Sheer Tint Hydrator, £30.
foundation, but the weightlessness and mattifying capacity to shade-match? “On the jawline, one inch inwards from
Lancôme Teint Idole of a powder. To wear them is to understand their techy savoir- your ear lobe,” explains Eldridge. “Further back, skin has
Ultra Wear Nude, £34. faire and to see how well they can multi-task. But the perennial been protected by your hair, further forward, it’s been more
Estée Lauder Double Wear
Nude Water Fresh question of shade matching still applies. And in the current exposed to the sun. In this sweet spot, you will find the
Makeup, £34 market where – thankfully – options abound, finding the nuance of skin tone that will work for your whole face.” Q
*Clinical test on 31 volunteers **In vitro data

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Online at feelunique.com, lookfantastic.com, escentual.com, cultbeauty.co.uk and debenhams.com.
DIRECTOR’S CUT

JUMP START
For a radical overhaul or a morning
12 WEEKS
pick-me-up, think of this round-up of
treatments as a booster pack for your
skincare routine, says Jessica Diner

4 WEEKS
10 DAYS
7 DAYS
12 weeks Teresa Tarmey
Programme, £350.
4 weeks Bioeffect
30 Day Treatment, £210;
Elizabeth Arden Prevage
DAILY
Progressive Renewal
Treatment, £180;
Sisley Sisleÿa-Elixir
Intensive Skin Renewal
Program, £350.
10 days Sarah Chapman
Skinesis Power A
Renewal System, £145;
Dermalogica Rapid
Reveal Peel, £79.
7 days Lancôme
Rénergie Multi-Cica
Soothing Gel, £66.
Daily Elemis Biotec Skin
Energising Cleanser, £40.
5 MINUTES
T
he “questions” function on Instagram Stories is, it
turns out, a brilliant way of crowdsourcing ideas
– and my first dalliance with it was illuminating.
“I have a spare hour, ask me your questions,” I wrote.
What came back was a flurry of skincare queries, many of
them about intensive treatments to give skin a lift either
when it’s tired or has “stopped responding to products”. So
this month’s column is dedicated to the super-charged skincare
boosters everyone should be incorporating in their regime
four to six times a year.
Your level of boost will depend on the time and effort that
you are willing to dedicate. The 12-week Teresa Tarmey
Programme – from the facialist best known for her glow-
enhancing micro-needling treatments – is an at-home kit of
six products that comes with a step-by-step guide. Complete
with a lactic acid toner, a peptide treatment, a Dermaroller,
a massage tool, a reusable silicone sheet mask and a hyaluronic
acid gel, all designed to work together to improve collagen
production and plump skin, this is for the dedicated enthusiast
who is looking for skin changes akin to having a professional
facial. And if you can stick to it, it works.
For those who have an event looming but don’t have 12
weeks to spare, Bioeffect’s 30 Day Treatment uses EGF
(epidermal growth factor), a barley derivative that redefines
skin’s tone and texture, producing crazy-good results; while
the star ingredient of Elizabeth Arden’s four-week Prevage
Progressive Renewal Treatment is idebenone, a powerful
antioxidant, combined with gentle acids to resurface the skin
for radiance and diminished fine lines. Sisley’s Sisleÿa-Elixir
is another four-week programme that I can’t recommend
highly enough for a smoother, perkier, firmer effect. The only
effort required is remembering to apply these boosters after
cleansing and before moisturising, in place of serum.
Then there are the “short, sharp burst” kits, which are
better suited to seasonal changes, or for when skin is looking
dull and in need of reawakening. Dermalogica’s Rapid Reveal
Peel restores radiance and brightens in 10 days, as does
facialist Sarah Chapman’s Skinesis Power A Renewal System,
which contains 10 vials of single-dose vitamin A and
hyaluronic acid – it promises to revive the complexion and
diminish dark spots. Lancôme’s one-week option is ideal
for sensitive skin.
A skin boost can be part of your daily in-shower routine,
too. When skin is lacklustre, try Elemis’s Biotec Skin
Energising Cleanser, which is turbo-charged with lactic,
ferulic and succinic acids as well as electrolytes to give the
complexion a wake-up call. Lixirskin’s Vitamin C Paste and
Liz Earle’s Brightening Treatment Mask are my well-loved
morning masks that rejuvenate skin in five minutes – ideal
before a big presentation or an appearance on camera. As the
PIXELATE.BIZ

5 minutes Liz Earle
Brightening Treatment
Mask, £18; Lixirskin
Vitamin C Paste, £32
138
saying goes, sometimes a change is as good as a rest – but
beauty boosters that make you look like you’ve actually had
a rest? That is a change worth investing in. Q
EVERYTHING
IS ABOUT
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 ®

Tess Daly

Original 50+
Photography: David Venni / Chilli Media

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 BEAUTY

FLORAL
ARRANGEMENT
Jasmine, lily, peony,
nettle and mimosa:
this spring’s fragrance
launches are taking
inspiration from gardens
in bloom, says Jessica
Diner. Photograph by
Joss McKinley

From left: Hermès Un

Jardin Sur La Lagune
eau de toilette, £89. Gucci
The Alchemist’s Garden
Winter’s Spring eau de
parfum, £240. Jo Malone
Nettle & Wild Achillea
cologne, £49. Beauty Pie
Petals, Heliotrope &
Ambrette eau de parfum,
from £19. Maison Christian
Dior Holy Peony eau de
parfum, £200. Set design:
Sophie Durham

141
 Skin renew

W
ith a host of new retinol
products on the scene,
it’s become much easier
to reap the vitamin C
derivative’s anti-ageing benefits. The
Vogue beauty desk’s favourites include:
111skin’s Celestial Black Diamond
Retinol Oil (1), £150; Estée Lauder’s
Perfectionist Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol
Treatment (2), £63; Sunday Riley’s A+
High-Dose Retinoid Serum (3), £85;
Origins Plantscription Retinol Night
Moisturiser (4), £49; Drunk Elephant’s
A-Passioni Retinol Cream (5), £62; and
Elizabeth Arden’s Retinol Ceramide
Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum (6),
from £30. Use in the evening, then make
sure you wear an SPF the next day to
protect freshly resurfaced skin.

BEAUTY MUSINGS
5
Retinol goes mainstream, a one-of-a-kind
workout studio and Insta-effect concealer…
April is shaping up to be a big month,
says Lauren Murdoch-Smith

LASHINGS 1
4
OF TLC
Eyelash extension treatments 3
are more popular than ever,
but over time, they can have a
damaging effect. The remedy? 2
L’Oréal Paris’s Lash Serum,
ART & COMMERCE; PIXELATE.BIZ

£15, which – thanks to a

ARTHUR ELGORT; KARIM SADLI/

formula that includes castor

oil, vitamin B5 and hyaluronic
acid – can help strengthen
your eyelashes. Apply twice
a day to your top and bottom
lash lines – and remember
that, whether or not you
wear extensions, it never
hurts to condition.
 BEAUTY
RADIANCE REHAB
Forget dewy cheeks or a surface-level highlight –
it’s the year of skin that looks healthy from within,
and these new make-up options are here to help.
Chanel Rouge Coco Flash in Fire, £31,
can be used with a choice of three
complementary top coats to add depth. Nars Super Radiant Booster, £25, comes
in one universally flattering rose-gold hue, Isola Rossa.
Add to foundation or use as a highlighter. Just the tonic
The new Monkey Island Estate hotel is
located on a private island on the Thames in Bray.
The island’s name is derived from its medieval
Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint in Bare monastic associations, and in keeping with this
Raspberry, £25.50, is infused with olive, history, the hotel’s “floating” spa, set on a purpose-
avocado and jojoba oils. built barge, offers treatments using herbal tonics
Rodial Soft Focus based on ancient recipes brewed by monks.
Glow Powder, £52, is Also on the menu is the Floating Massage, which
a multidimensional mirrors the rhythmic effect of a boat rocking on
colour-correcting
compact that offers water. Aaaand relax… Monkeyislandestate.co.uk
Dior Addict Lip Glow To The Max in radiance plus a
Pink, £28, mixes two shades – one with bronze highlight.
a hint of shimmer; one in a rich colour.

Tata Harper Sois Adoré Lip Treatment,

£28, employs active botanical
ingredients to plump and condition.

Laura Mercier
Flawless Lumière
Giorgio Armani Beauty Lip
Magnet Lip Freeze in Coral,
Radiance-Perfecting
Foundation, £36, Studio fix
uses “super crystal
£31, uses special “water in clear pearl” for its Kensington’s newly opened Body Machine
oil” technology to avoid light-reflecting Performance Studio is the first authentic,
drying out lips. properties.
YSL Face Palette
licensed TRX (Total-Body Resistance Exercise)

NEW-GEN LIPS Collector Illuminator training facility in Europe. A versatile suspension

Highlighting Blush, training system, TRX has long been favoured in
Lip colour is undergoing a revolution: £36, combines pink
shades with a gyms, and now, Body Machine offers classes
the hybrid products taking over this for all ages and abilities using its specialist
transparent powder.
season combine the benefits of a Swirl them together
traditional lipstick and a lip balm, equipment in a light, functional space.
for a healthy-looking
providing a soft, buildable colour as well complexion. Classes from £27, Bodymachineps.com
as moisture and nourishment. Genius.

No filter
Owing to its blurring effect, Giorgio Armani Beauty’s
Face Fabric, a lightweight foundation, is a long-time
favourite of the beauty world – and now, with the launch
of the complementary Power Fabric Concealer, £32, the
brand adds another star to its line-up of expert coverage.
Available in 20 shades, it banishes everything from
imperfections and dark circles to pigmentation.

Redken Dry Shampoo
Powder 02, £20
DRY CLEANERS
We’ve become a nation of dry
shampoo obsessives, so variations
on our beloved product are always
welcome. Redken’s new multitaskers
combine cleansing with styling benefits:
the Dry Shampoo Paste 05 is half-dry
shampoo, half-styling paste, so it’ll
refresh hair as well as adding texture and
Redken Dry Shampoo hold, while the Dry Shampoo Powder
Paste 05, £20 02 uses charcoal to absorb oil and
create volume at the roots.
143
 Suede shirt, £2,175,
Loewe. Cotton shirt,
£89, Hugo. Suede
shorts, £2,390,
Brunello Cucinelli.
Leather belt, £1,130,
Hermès. Key ring
wallets, £290 each,
Jil Sander. Leather
sphere clutch,
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STYLING: SARAH RICHARDSON. HAIR: NEIL MOODIE. MAKE-UP: MATHIAS VAN HOOFF

BROADEN
YOUR
HORIZONS
ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT THE BEGINNING OF A NEW SEASON IS MAPPING OUT A NEW WARDROBE.
WHERE WILL YOU TAKE IT? WHAT WILL YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH? RIGHT NOW, THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS,
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ARE COCKTAIL DRESSES SATURATED IN COLOUR OR CRAFTED FROM FEATHERS AND SEQUINS. WATCH HOW THEY FLY!
SEE HOW THEY TRIP THE LIGHT! IT’S TIME TO NAVIGATE SUMMER. PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD BUSH
145
TAKING
SHAPE
The message this spring?
Whether it’s luscious leather
or paper-bag cotton canvas, let
your silhouette speak volumes.
Photographs by David Sims.
Styling by Joe McKenna
 TOUGHEN DIOR’S
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NEW BOY AT BOTTEGA
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 “LET ME
PUT THIS
OUT THERE...
I AM NOT AN
ENGLISH ROSE”
As Disney’s new Princess Jasmine, British actress
and singer Naomi Scott is redefining the fairy
tale for the modern age. Sophie Heawood meets a young
woman set for a global takeover.
Photographs by Nick Knight. Styling by Kate Phelan

T
he Disney princess walks across the road, peers
at her car windscreen, shouts “Yes! Come on!”
because she hasn’t got a ticket, chucks her YSL
handbag in the back, then dances in her seat as
she drives through her native Essex, listening
to the sexy new R’n’B song she’s written about
wanting to be so close to her man that she can
smell his skin and have his babies.
This is Naomi Scott, the 25-year-old British actress and singer who
is about to be propelled to instant stardom as Princess Jasmine in Guy
Ritchie’s Aladdin, with Will Smith as the genie. Although she almost
wasn’t, after the producers suggested she might want to try a dress
and make-up for her second audition: “And I was like, ‘Crap, I don’t
own a dress.’ I had to run into Topshop on Oxford Street to buy one.”
Scott will not only act, but belt out the movie’s most eagerly awaited
new song, a modern anthem about finding your voice so you can
lead your people. I ask if it could be as big a hit as Frozen’s “Let It
158
Go”. “Oh gosh, I wouldn’t want to put that pressure on it,” she replies,
which I take to mean, yes, this is absolutely what we’re gunning for,
100 per cent. Then, this autumn, she will star as one of the new
Charlie’s Angels alongside her new BFF Kristen Stewart (“We are
in love”), and after that she’s quite possibly taking over Hollywood
and then the world.
But before all that she has to go to her parents’ church this afternoon
– “Brap brap, big up,” she says as we drive past it – and before that she
has to have breakfast with Vogue. So we sit down in her favourite Woodford
café, where she cheerily greets the staff by name, but nobody else recognises
the girl with the sparkling brown eyes in jeans and a hoodie, ordering a
mixed grill with extra sausage and laughing with all her wide-eyed sass.
Safe to say, Scott isn’t like the British starlets that we used to send
to Tinseltown. The daughter of a British-Indian mother and a white
British pastor father, she was born in Hounslow and moved to
Woodford, Essex, in her teens. Aged 21, she married the British-
Jamaican footballer Jordan Spence, whom she met at her parents’ >
“I SAID TO THEM,
‘JUST TO LET YOU
KNOW, I WANT TO PLAY
[JASMINE] STRONG,
AND IF THAT’S NOT
WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING
FOR, THAT’S OK, BUT
IT’S NOT FOR ME.’”
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PRODUCTION: LIBERTE
PRODUCTIONS.
DIGITAL ARTWORK:
EPILOGUE IMAGING
 THIS PAGE: JERSEY
DRESS, £1,165, STELLA
MCCARTNEY. PERSPEX
HELMET, COURTESY OF
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RINALDY YUNARDI
church when she was 15, having grown up absolutely
obsessed with playing football herself. When she talks about
their youth she laughs, because he went to the posh private
school while she was at the comp, so they had to conduct
their big emotional chats in Nando’s.
Look at the pair of them on Instagram and you can’t
help but swoon a bit at their unsickly love for each other
– this Ipswich Town footballer bigging up his wife and
how excited he is “to do life” with her. In my experience, “THERE WERE
whatever the background, there are only two types of
celebrities in the end: those who succeed because they SOME HOLLYWOOD
know exactly who they are, and those who do so because
they’re willing to let the world tell them. Scott and Spence
MOMENTS
are clearly the former; a newly minted Posh and Becks.
Elizabeth Banks, director of the new Charlie’s Angels
WHERE I WAS
movie, explains Scott’s personal magic: “The audience roots TOO WHITE
for her to win, and she upgrades every scene she’s in. I just
fell in love with her spirit.” Guy Ritchie certainly saw FOR ONE PERSON,
something that convinced him to cast the relative unknown
in Aladdin after a global search. Twenty-seven years after AND TOO
the original cartoon’s release, the fascination with the story
endures. When I told my seven-year-old I wouldn’t be able NOT-WHITE
to pick her up from school, because I had a meeting with
Princess Jasmine, her jaw hit the floor. FOR ANOTHER”
Yet for any mother, the princess-as-role-model remains
a thorny issue, especially when it’s Jasmine, who in the
1992 set-up is a 16-year-old with an unsettling mix of
purity and seductiveness. Scott was adamant that she
would only play 2019 Jasmine on her terms. “I saw her
as a young woman, not a teenager, with a mature strength
that can cut you down. So I said to them, ‘Just to let you
know, I want to play her strong, and if that’s not what
you’re looking for, that’s OK, but it’s not for me.’”
She still boggles at how huge an opportunity she has
been given. Aged 11, she went to a singing summer school
and realised she “wasn’t delusional, that I could actually
do this”, later getting spotted singing a church solo by a
talent agent who decided that Scott could be an actress,
too, “which was news to me. I have a lot to thank her for.”
She acted in some ads and got work on Disney Channel
drama shows, sitting one of her GCSEs alone at 5am so
she could film that same morning. Then came the bigger
aspirations – and the bigger disappointments.
“I remember thinking in auditions, ‘OK, this is it, this
is the one.’ And then not getting it. And then the next
time thinking, ‘OK, this is the one.’ And not getting it
again. I was the Nearly Girl for a long time.” Still, she
did get a part in the Matt Damon movie The Martian
– though she discovered she’d been cut when the credits
rolled at the London preview, where she was sitting in
the audience with her best mate, all dressed up and slightly
confused. She signed a record deal with Island Records
and, finally, a big boost came when she was cast as the
pink Power Ranger in the 2017 film, after a couple of
episodes of Lewis on ITV and a lead role in the American
sci-fi TV series Terra Nova.
I tell her she’s as focused as a GPS, recalibrating the same
route after every diversion. She agrees, perhaps because she
knew that some of the rejection wasn’t really about her at
all. Race has always played a part; a section of the internet
believes a biracial woman of British and Gujarati descent
has no business playing Middle Eastern Jasmine (“I love
Naomi Scott but I don’t love the ‘brown ppl are
interchangeable’ idea,” read one tweet). Scott has often felt
that her colour came into casting debates. “I was maybe the
exotic choice for some people – I guess because I’m not >

“WE’RE YOUNG
PEOPLE WITH BIG
ASPIRATIONS –
I WANT TO BE A
POWER COUPLE”
white. But there were some Hollywood moments where I
was too white for one person, and too not-white for another.”
I mention Hollywood’s love affair with the idea of the
English rose. “Oh, let me put this out there,” she says,
nodding, “I am not an English rose. And when I was 17, it
felt like there was no other way of being a British actress.
Growing up, my favourite movie was Bend It Like Beckham
– I even played football in that same park as a kid. That was
me.” Which means she understands the offside rule and
bristles at the word Wag, says it’s from the past. “The other
day, watching Ipswich when they won, it didn’t matter who
any of us women were – we were just there because we all
wanted that same goal. I don’t think people understand the
sacrifice of these women who have to up and leave with their
children when the husband moves to a different team.”
She is similarly admiring of the women who went before
her, such as her mother’s mother, who recently died. “My
nan was just this tiny little Indian woman, but what she went
through…” She shakes her head in disbelief. “Her family
lived in Uganda, and when Idi Amin first came into power
people thought he was a good thing. The classic strongman
figure. Where have we seen that recently?” She raises an
eyebrow at the White House. “Then the trucks started going
past, just shooting at walls, the fear tactics. My nan got all
10 of her children out and came to England without her
husband. So I’ve got eight aunties who speak a mixture
of Gujarati and Swahili, which is hilarious because it’s
almost their own language. But I never underestimate that
I’ve had so many more choices than them.”
It might be common in America, but being a committed
Christian is unusual in a young British celebrity. Scott
questions it all herself. When I mention that Jesus, to me,
is the original political activist, the rebel, she reaches across
the table to high five me. “Yes, Sophie, come on! If you
look at the life of Jesus you find so many things that are
surprisingly anti-religion. The Church has got so many
things wrong throughout the years. And what I love about
my dad is that we’ll have these real in-depth conversations
and he’ll go, ‘You know what, Nay, I don’t know. You need
to learn to live with loose ends.’”
What she does know is that her faith is at the foundation
“of every decision I make, and of my marriage. And we’re
young people with big aspirations – I want to be a power
couple, I want to make all the money and have a big house.
But sometimes Jordan and I say, OK, if I never acted in
a movie again, if he never set foot on a football pitch,
would our world fall apart?”
She got back from filming Aladdin only the week before
the Christmas show at church, so she wasn’t in it but she
was there, doling out honey and lemon to the cast backstage.
“Those are my people. We’re not a super-slick megachurch.
We’re just a bunch of people who meet up in a school hall.”
Was Jordan her first boyfriend, I wonder nosily. “With
the boy thing, it wasn’t that I wasn’t allowed, it’s that I
wasn’t thinking about it. I wasn’t expecting to meet someone
at that young an age. I had all these big things I wanted
to go and do, go and take over the world. But I met Jordan
at 15, 16 – he was a bit older – and I was like,” she does a
big approving grin, nodding like she means business, “Yeah!
I feel like we could… do life together.”
He sounds like a bit of a dreamboat. Or, as she puts it
approvingly, “He’s a complete gangsta.” He cooks for her
every night at their home (in a village outside Colchester,
where they live to be near his team), just like his Jamaican
father does for his mother. “Well, I do a few bits, but when
I do you don’t stop hearing about it. I’ll go, ‘Do you
remember that meal I cooked three months ago?’ And he’ll
be like…” she adopts a weary bloke’s voice, “‘Yes, mate.’”
They dance together in the house a lot – last night it was
Donell Jones and Jon B, all old-school R’n’B. Scott suffers
from eczema and, “apparently dancing is good for it – well,
it stops me itching mine at least. When I scratch, Jordan
will put on a song and be like, ‘Quick, dance, go!’” She
currently has the condition under control, but it’s been a
long process. “People will say, ‘Oooh, my cousin had eczema,
have you tried coconut oil?’ I feel like getting a T-shirt printed
saying: ‘I have tried coconut oil!’” As for her own music career,
the acting success certainly hasn’t dampened her hopes of a
double-whammy of fame. The fashion world is interested
in her, too – she has walked for Stella McCartney – but it
has taken Scott a while to feel at home on the front row.
“At fashion shows there are a lot of British… it feels like
aristocracy. It feels like they’re in the Establishment and I’m
sitting there going,” she does an awkward wave, ramps up
her Cockney, “‘Awright mate, ow ya doin’?’”
Really, though, she’s the consummate professional, and
is particularly excited that Charlie’s Angels is an all-female
powerhouse project – the new Angels are Scott, fellow
British up-and-comer Ella Balinska and Kristen Stewart
– “about women at work”. “You don’t see much about their
personal lives or who they’re dating. It’s about the agency
going global, getting into intelligence and tech,
whistleblowing. You don’t see bikini shots of their bums.”
On set, Scott found Stewart amazing to watch – she refers
to her as “Kri” and then catches herself, cringing. “But she’s
a pure artist, she’s going to be a director, too. But she’s also
fun and silly and we had such a laugh. What did we bond
over? Sometimes just goofy weird things. Me taking the
piss out of her a lot.”
She says her route into acting was so random she still
has moments of “when will they find out I’m not really an
actor?” “But again, it’s that thing of ‘Just keep going! Don’t
tell anyone!’ I didn’t go to drama school and that has made
me who I am. Sometimes you’ve got to fake the confidence
until you really have it.” She still finds Hollywood quite
an abstract concept, having been surprised that it has
accepted her at all. “I’m never gonna have big boobs and
I’m always gonna be a pear shape, that’s just the ethnic in
me.” And then she sums it up nicely. “I’m a combination
of so many things. I’m a London girl. I’m me.” Q
Aladdin is in cinemas from 24 May; Charlie’s Angels is out
this autumn
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My seditious
 DISRUPTIVE SPORTY
ELEMENTS LEND
ROMANTIC FEMININITY
A REBELLIOUS

heart
ALL-ACTION ATTITUDE.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
ARTHUR ELGORT.
FASHION EDITOR:
GRACE CODDINGTON
165
 ERDEM’S TIERED SKY-BLUE
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ROMANCE. THE BEST WAY
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A CARE FOR CREASES.
THIS PAGE: TAFFETA TOP,
FROM £870. TAFFETA SKIRT,
FROM £1,945. SCARF AND
EARRINGS, FROM A
SELECTION. ALL ERDEM.
NOTHING IS QUITE SO
CHARMING AS A MAXI DOSE
OF PACO RABANNE’S
NEO-BOHEMIA.
OPPOSITE: COTTON SHIRT,
£495. PLASTIC SKIRT, £675.
JACQUARD TROUSERS AND
LEATHER LOAFERS, FROM
A SELECTION. LEATHER BAG
WITH SCARF DETAIL, £1,215.
ALL PACO RABANNE
 THE WETSUIT NOW HAS
STYLE CURRENCY. LAYER
CHINTZY SILKS OVER
CALVIN KLEIN’S NEOPRENE
FOR MODERN ELEGANCE.
OPPOSITE: DECONSTRUCTED
SILK DRESS, £4,352.
WETSUIT, £1,643. PYTHON
BAG, £2,316. ALL CALVIN
KLEIN 205W39NYC.
RUBBER BOOTS, £105,
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS.
WITH THE ONSET OF
APRIL SHOWERS, MARC
JACOBS’S RUBBER
HEADSCARF AND COAT
MAKE FOR A PROFOUNDLY
PRACTICAL INVESTMENT.
THIS PAGE: COAT,
HEADSCARF AND SHOES,
FROM A SELECTION.
BEADED NECKLACE, £564.
LEATHER GLOVES, £519.
LEATHER BAG, £2,265.
ALL MARC JACOBS
 CATCH OF THE DAY:
NET-DRESSING IS
A THING AND LOUIS
VUITTON’S, CRAFTED
IN RED SEQUINS, IS THE
MAIN PRIZE. LAYER OVER
SCULPTURAL COTTONS.
THIS PAGE: COTTON
DRESS WITH SEQUINED-
NET EMBROIDERY, £10,000.
LEATHER BOOTS, £1,100.
LEATHER BAG, £2,400.
ALL LOUIS VUITTON.
MIU MIU’S OVERSIZED
ROSETTES AND SPARKLING
HEADBANDS ARE SURE TO
INSPIRE JOY, NO MATTER
YOUR ENVIRONMENT.
OPPOSITE: WOOL JACKET
WITH ROSETTE DETAIL,
£2,265. ORGANZA SHIRT,
£470. SOCKS, £115.
LEATHER SANDALS, £605.
CRYSTAL HEADBAND,
£440. ALL MIU MIU
 THE MESSAGE FROM
BALENCIAGA WHEN IT
COMES TO EVENINGWEAR?
SHORT, SHARP-EDGED
AND WITH SHEEN.
OPPOSITE: SATIN DRESS,
£3,700. LEATHER SHOES,
£665. LEATHER CLUTCH,
£1,290. EARRINGS, £635.
ALL BALENCIAGA.
CELINE’S NEW AFTER-DARK
VISION PRESENTS
GLITTERING PARTYWEAR
AT ITS MOST COVETABLE.
GOING OUT IS THE
NEW STAYING IN.
THIS PAGE: SEQUINED
SILK MINIDRESS, TO ORDER.
LEATHER BOOTS, £930.
BOTH CELINE BY
HEDI SLIMANE
 VIA PAISLEY SEQUIN
SWIRLS AND FEATHERED
FRINGES, VALENTINO
WHIPS UP A MAGICAL MIX.
THIS PAGE: SILK TOP, £3,450.
SEQUINED SILK TROUSERS,
£4,500. SISAL HAT, TO ORDER.
ALL VALENTINO. SANDALS,
£540, VALENTINO GARAVANI.
MARNI’S DECONSTRUCTED
DRESSES ARE A MASTERCLASS
IN SUBVERSIVE FEMININITY.
OPPOSITE: EMBELLISHED
SILK DRESS, £4,000.
BRA, £195. BELT, £320.
LEATHER AND SNAKESKIN
SHOES, £690. LEATHER BAG,
£2,950. ALL MARNI.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
HAIR: JULIEN D’YS.
MAKE-UP: FRANCELLE DALY.
SET DESIGN: MARY HOWARD.
PROPS: HOOKPROPS.COM.
PRODUCTION: BRIAN CRESTO.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: SALLY
TAYLOR. MODEL: ADUT AKECH.
WITH THANKS TO INDUSTRY
CITY, NEW YORK
“WE ARE PROFESSIONAL
WOMEN, AND THAT’S
HOW WE CONDUCT
OURSELVES.” AFTER ALL,
“WE’VE BEEN WORKING
SINCE WE WERE NINE
MONTHS OLD.”
FROM LEFT: ASHLEY
AND MARY-KATE OLSEN,
PHOTOGRAPHED IN
NEW YORK
SINGULAR
VISION
I
t’s 11.29 on a blustery New York
morning when the doorbell rings
at Craig McDean’s studio. Instead
of being fashionably late, as one
might expect from Mary-Kate and
Ashley Olsen, the twin sisters arrive early,
clutching enormous exotic-skinned
handbags, their tiny frames swathed in
layers of black. “We are professional
women, and that’s how we conduct
ourselves,” they earnestly impress upon
me later in the day. After all, “we’ve been
working since we were nine months old.”
That discipline has paid off. Now
aged 32, they are esteemed designers
who have won a devoted customer base
the world over. With little training
besides what they picked up in the
wardrobe departments of Full House and
Two of a Kind (the American TV shows
that made them household names), or
sitting in on meetings for the Walmart
clothing line they launched aged 12,
they have built something of a fashion
empire. It is one that includes The Row
and Elizabeth & James, along with a
handful of other projects, and is rooted
in the kind of good taste and refined
aesthetics that may not have defined
their movie starlet beginnings but with
which they have become synonymous.
The Row, the brand we are here to
discuss, is unusual. Not only because it
is helmed by these two young women,
whose every Starbucks trip has been
documented for decades now, but
SOON, THE
ROW WILL
ARRIVE IN
LONDON,
BRINGING
also because it determinedly shies away that, we started out that way,” sighs ASHLEY AND
from the press: it never advertises Mary-Kate. “But this is the way we MARY-KATE
(the Olsens themselves rarely grant chose to move forward in our lives: to
interviews) and this season it didn’t even not be in the spotlight, to really have OLSEN’S
hold a fashion show (instead, a dozen something that speaks for itself.” UNIQUE
rails of particularly lovely garments were The Row is clothing designed for PERSPECTIVE
quietly presented in its New York studio). women who identify with that spirit,
Throughout our day together – and who prefer subtle elegance, plays on
TO THOSE
despite having known photographer proportion and luxurious fabrics to loud WHO PREFER
Craig McDean for years, and taken part or logo-embellished extravaganzas. In THEIR FASHION
in hundreds of shoots – the most fact, when the Olsens first started the METICULOUSLY
apprehensive they appear is when brand in 2006 (originally as a side-
preparing to step in front of his camera. project while studying at New York
MADE AND
(Later, they sweetly implore me to discard University), with the simple intention of UNDERSTATED.
the portrait of them in favour of an image creating the perfect white tee, they had BY OLIVIA
he took of their interlinked hands.) no branding at all, just a hand-stamped SINGER.
It’s hard to imagine that their rigorous gold chain sewn into each neckline.
discretion isn’t a repercussion of their “The whole exercise was to see whether, PHOTOGRAPHS
celebutante years, that the scores of if something was made beautifully, in BY CRAIG
Instagram accounts dedicated to their great fabric, with good fit, it would sell MCDEAN.
daily activities and the fervid fandom without a logo or a name on it,” they
that still surrounds them doesn’t play a explain. “And it worked.” That first
STYLING BY
role in their reluctance to retake centre T-shirt established a solid foundation, ALASTAIR
stage. “We’ve been there, we’ve done from which they grew their collection > MCKIMM
177
IN AN INDUSTRY
OFTEN SUSPICIOUS OF
CELEBRITY DESIGNERS,
IT IS NO SMALL FEAT
THAT THEY MADE THEIR
MARK. “IT WAS VERY HARD
AT THE BEGINNING,”
ASHLEY REMEMBERS.
“AND ACTUALLY,
PROBABLY UNTIL THE
PAST COUPLE OF YEARS.”
THIS PAGE: WOOL-
CANVAS DRESS, £1,980.
NYLON BAG, £1,200.
OPPOSITE: WOOL-
VISCOSE DRESS, £1,840.
LEATHER SLING BAG,
£1,775. LEATHER CLOGS,
£800. ALL THE ROW,
FROM A SELECTION,
AT MYTHERESA.COM,
NET-A-PORTER.COM AND
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
piece by piece, first by selling to a Los heavy silk mikado or ethereal organza.
Angeles boutique. “For every T-shirt Shoes, bags and small leather goods are
sold, we could make two more,” smiles just as exquisite: from the enormous
Mary-Kate. “Then Barneys picked it up, crocodile or ostrich-skin handbags to tiny
and we developed some more pieces, wristlets crafted in polished, 3D-printed
took them to Paris, hired a salesperson… resin, distressed satin combat boots to
it was baby steps.” In an industry often those mink slippers. They pay little heed
suspicious of celebrity designers, it is no to trends – if anything, they seem to have
small feat that they made their mark. “It
was very hard at the beginning,” Ashley
remembers. “And actually, probably until
the past couple of years. But we don’t
really take things personally. For us, sell-
throughs were the only thing we really
cared about.” If that has been their main
concern, it is easily dismissed: sales have
been brilliant, thanks to the sort of
women for whom the Olsens’ former
careers are of little interest (anyone
spending £8,000 on a cashmere coat is
unlikely to be doing so because its
designers were in the 1999 comedy
Passport to Paris).
Money is often no object for The
Row’s customers; on one trip to the LA
store, I asked why there were no mink
slippers on display: the store attendant
explained that a woman had swooped
in and bought 15 pairs for her dinner
party guests to wear (at £1,450 apiece).
Natalie Kingham, buying director at
Matchesfashion.com, where the brand
is stocked heavily, says “there is no price
resistance to the collection” and that it
maintains a particularly loyal following.
In truth, part of the reason the Olsens
understand this world is because they
inhabit it: they were once the youngest
self-made millionaires in American
history, Mary-Kate is married to French
financier Olivier Sarkozy, and the sisters
have built their personal aesthetic on the
bohemian insouciance and artful
dishevelment only the monied can
afford. Equally, they are on first-name
terms with plenty of their best customers
– in their early years, they’d hold intimate
dinners with retailers to familiarise
themselves with their market. It was a
savvy move, and one that has informed
their business ever since. “I feel really
fortunate to be very close with those
women, and they really do dictate where
we go season to season,” says Mary-Kate.
“When we design, we’re designing for
specific clients… We understand what “WE LOVE
their day looks like, how and when they
travel…” Ashley takes over: “What
FABRICS –
they’re looking for at a certain time of set the fashion agenda in recent seasons, EVERYTHING
year, what events come up, their families.”
That understanding means that The
during which modern minimalism has
been the standout aesthetic.
COMES DOWN
Row covers all bases: collections comprise While The Row’s sometimes monastic TO THE WAY
everything from expertly crafted, minimal
tailoring (the recently launched menswear
silhouettes and strict palette can appear
austere on the hanger, there is nothing SOMETHING
has as many female fans as it does men) more sensual than wearing it on the FEELS”
to sumptuous, sculptural eveningwear in body. “We love fabrics – everything >
 comes down to the way something
feels,” says Ashley. These are clothes that
drape weightlessly, are cut to flatter and
on which every stitch, every fastening
is forensically considered. In fact, it’s
difficult to leave a Row store without
draining your bank account in an effort
to channel the aspirational elegance with
“IF YOU WANT
THINGS TO
BE PERFECT, which each piece is saturated. Now, that
IT’S A LOT OF terrifyingly appealing proposition is
coming to London.
HARD WORK…” Pencilled to open this summer, the
British store will be The Row’s third
– after LA and New York – and is almost
a homecoming, since the brand’s very
name is a nod to the precision tailoring
of Savile Row. Each store has a different
feel, but they are united by a tasteful
eclecticism and the selection of products
the sisters find to fill them.
“Whether presenting a collection in
a Dover Street Market store alongside a
Jean Prouvé sculpture or notable piece
of furniture, The Row excels at quietly
communicating its values and aesthetic
beyond ready-to-wear by exploring the
Olsens’ taste in design as a broader
concept,” explains Dickon Bowden,
vice-president of Dover Street Market
(The Row does a roaring trade in five
of its global stores). “We love curating;
we love discovering new products and
vintage pieces,” says Ashley. “And
London will be totally different, but very
much The Row,” continues Mary-Kate.
They hope that moving here will
introduce London’s international elite to
their vision; that the creative energy of
the capital will permeate their new home
and the brand as a whole. “There’s still
a craft in London. There’s authenticity;
there are a lot of artisans that are based
there,” reflects Mary-Kate. “And the art
scene is amazing,” enthuses Ashley. “And
music! You’ve got such great music!”
Sitting with the Olsens is a bizarre
experience because, in spite of their huge
success – and the fact that neither has an
Instagram account, which only amplifies
their mystique – they seem remarkably
normal young women. Yes, they finish
each other’s sentences, brush each other’s
carefully tousled hair back from their
faces, and claim to spend “every waking
hour” together, but they are twins who
have grown up in each other’s pockets,
so that’s to be expected. Indeed, the
most curious thing about them is their
unrelenting drive. They don’t have to
work, yet regularly put in six-day weeks,
merchandise their stores themselves, and
are involved in each and every brand
decision – from fabric choices to the
nuances of developing an e-commerce
platform. “There is a lot of pressure we
put on ourselves,” says Mary-Kate. “I
feel like we’re really lucky that we have
a great partnership and that we can rely
on each other for support, because I can
imagine it can be so lonely.” When I ask
where that pressure comes from, they
immediately answer in sync: “It’s self-
inflicted.” Mary-Kate continues, “If you
want things to be perfect or beautiful,
it’s a lot of hard work… Nothing comes
easy. That’s just the way we were raised;
that’s what we believe is necessary to do
something different.”
In a time of frenetic pace and quick-fire
success, their quiet, meticulously curated
world is just that: different. And for that
reason, it’s entirely compelling. Q
“THERE IS A LOT OF
PRESSURE WE PUT ON
OURSELVES,” SAYS
MARY-KATE. “I FEEL LIKE
WE’RE REALLY LUCKY
THAT WE HAVE A GREAT
PARTNERSHIP, BECAUSE
I CAN IMAGINE IT
CAN BE SO LONELY.”
OPPOSITE: WOOL/
SILK BELTED JACKET,
£3,380. ORGANZA
SHIRTDRESS, £1,940.
THIS PAGE: STRETCH-
WOOL JUMPSUIT, £1,860.
SILK-ORGANZA TOP,
£800. ALL THE ROW,
FROM A SELECTION, AT
DOVER STREET MARKET,
MATCHESFASHION.COM,
NET-A-PORTER.COM AND
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL
PAGES, SEE VOGUE
INFORMATION.
HAIR: ORLANDO PITA.
MAKE-UP: FRANCELLE
DALY. NAILS: YUKO
TSUCHIHASHI. DIGITAL
ARTWORK: GLOSS.
MODELS: FREJA BEHA
ERICHSEN, BINX WALTON.
THE OLSENS’ HAIR
AND MAKE-UP: MARK
TOWNSEND AND
ANA MARIE RIZZIERI
TRAVELLING
LIGHT
UTILITY MEETS BOHEMIA
FOR A LUXE HOLIDAY
SPIRIT THAT TRANSLATES
PERFECTLY INTO
THE SEASON AHEAD.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
RICHARD BUSH. STYLING
BY SARAH RICHARDSON
MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS: BLUE-COLLAR SHIRTING
IS THE IDEAL FOIL TO CHLOE’S HIPPIE SUMMER COAT.
YOUR SUMMER SHOPPING LIST STARTS HERE.
TAPESTRY COAT, £4,745, CHLOE. SKY-BLUE SHIRT, £99,
BOSS. PALE BLUE OVERSIZED LINEN SHIRT, £315, MARGARET
HOWELL. LEATHER AND SNAKESKIN SLIDES, £620, MARNI.
EARRINGS, THROUGHOUT, FROM A LOCAL SOUK
 HOW TO IMMEDIATELY
ELEVATE A HAND-HEWN
TEPEE? EASY: INTRODUCE
AN HERMES SHIRT AND
LOEWE’S PATCHWORK
SUEDE A-LINE TO THE MIX.
THIS PAGE: COTTON-TOILE
TUNIC, £4,036, HERMES.
PATCHWORK SUEDE
CULOTTES, £2,175, LOEWE.
SLIPPERS, £26, BOHEMIA
DESIGN. BRACELET WALLET,
£350, JIL SANDER. BOX
BAG, £6,250, MOYNAT.
DIOR’S INTRICATELY
EMBELLISHED KAFTAN IS
A HOMAGE TO THE TRAVEL
ESSENTIAL. WHEN IT’S
THIS GOOD, YOU NEEDN’T
WEAR ANYTHING ELSE.
OPPOSITE: EMBROIDERED
184 COTTON TUNIC, £5,500, DIOR
 IN THE DESERT,
OR IN THE CITY,
SANDY NEUTRALS
ARE THE SURPRISE
HIT OF THE SEASON.
OPPOSITE: COTTON TUNIC
DRESS, £850, LOEWE.
COTTON TROUSERS,
TAPERED BY STYLIST, £765,
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO.
SLIDES, AS BEFORE.
PURSE NECKLACE, £695,
GABRIELA HEARST, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM.
PYRAMID CLUTCH,
£3,800, MOYNAT.
LAYER UP: BOSS’S
PINSTRIPE SHIRTING
TAKES ON A WHOLE NEW
CHARACTER WHEN WORN
WITH INSOUCIANT EASE.
THIS PAGE: SUEDE CAPE,
£1,135, LONGCHAMP. SHIRT,
£295. SHIRTS, BUTTONED
TOGETHER AND WORN AS
SKIRT, £295 EACH. ALL
BOSS. SLIDES, PURSE
NECKLACE AND PYRAMID
CLUTCH, AS BEFORE 289
LOOSE-FITTING WHITES
PRESENT A SHORTCUT
TO NONCHALANCE. TEAM
WITH MOYNAT’S ORNATELY
STUDDED BOX BAG
FOR A TOUCH OF
ARTISANAL GLAMOUR.
FROM LEFT: GISELLE WEARS
LEATHER SHIRT, £2,575.
COTTON TROUSERS, £900.
LEATHER SHOES, £520.
ALL JIL SANDER. BOX
BAG, £4,000, MOYNAT.
REBECCA WEARS CAMEL
COTTON SHIRT, £720, JIL
SANDER. LINEN-CREPE
SHIRTDRESS, £1,750.
LINEN-CREPE TROUSERS,
TAPERED BY STYLIST,
£1,060. BOTH LORO
PIANA. UTILITY BELT BAG,
£995, GABRIELA HEARST,
AT MYTHERESA.COM.
MINI BELT BAG, £410.
CROSSBODY WALLET,
£390. BOTH JIL SANDER.
SLIDES, AS BEFORE
 WHETHER THROWN
OVER A SHOULDER OR
WRAPPED UP WARM,
VETEMENTS’S TAPESTRY-
PRINT COAT IS THE
ULTIMATE LAYERING PIECE.
THIS PAGE: TRENCH COAT
WITH SCARF DETAIL, £2,300,
VETEMENTS, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM. COTTON
SHIRTDRESS, £795,
AGNONA. SLIPPERS,
£26, BOHEMIA DESIGN.
BAG, AS BEFORE.
ANYONE WHO DOESN’T
BELIEVE IN THE
PRACTICALITY OF A
MICRO-BAG ISN’T TRYING
HARD ENOUGH. MULTIPLY
AND AFFIX TO EVERYTHING.
OPPOSITE: COTTON SHIRT,
£1,100, VALENTINO.
COTTON TROUSERS, £455,
DOLCE & GABBANA. SAFETY-
PIN MINI POUCH BAG, £210.
MINI WALLET, £350. BOTH
JIL SANDER. BOX BAG AND
SLIPPERS, AS BEFORE.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
HAIR: NEIL MOODIE.
MAKE-UP: MATHIAS VAN
HOOFF. LOCAL PRODUCER:
SUPER PRODUCTION.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: LOVE
RETOUCH. MODELS:
REBECCA LEIGH
LONGENDYKE, GISELLE
NORMAN. WITH THANKS
TO LA MAMOUNIA
292 HOTEL, MARRAKESH
 DANGER!
HIGH
VOLTAGE!
SPRING’S TASTE FOR
1980S NOSTALGIA YIELDS
HIGHLY CHARGED
RESULTS. SHORT AND
TIGHT SPELLS SEXY AGAIN.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
CHARLOTTE WALES.
STYLING BY POPPY KAIN
CELINE’S GLISTENING PUFFBALL REQUIRES
ONLY BARELY-THERE SHOES. SEQUINED TAFFETA
BUSTIER DRESS, TO ORDER, CELINE BY HEDI
SLIMANE. GOLD, DIAMOND, RUBELLITE AND EMERALD
CHOKER, BULGARI. LEATHER SANDALS, £450, GINA.
HAIR: JAWARA. MAKE-UP: HIROMI UEDA. NAILS:
PEBBLES AIKENS. CHOREOGRAPHY: PAT BOGUSLAWSKI.
PRODUCTION: MINI TITLE. DIGITAL ARTWORK:
STUDIO RM. MODEL: ANNA EWERS

192
 ONE WORD: FEARLESS.
SAINT LAURENT’S CUT-AWAY
BODYSUIT IS CALLING
ALL EXHIBITIONISTS.
THIS PAGE: TWISTED
SILK-GEORGETTE BODY,
£2,565, SAINT LAURENT BY
ANTHONY VACCARELLO.
FELT HAT, £420, VICTORIA
GRANT. VINTAGE EARRINGS,
£38. VINTAGE BRACELETS,
FROM £45 EACH.
ALL GILLIAN HORSUP.
FLYING UNDER NEW
COLOURS, ESCADA IS
BURSTING WITH DARING
OPTIONS FOR SPRING.
OPPOSITE: LEATHER
BLAZER, £2,290, ESCADA.
LEATHER GLOVES, £120,
FRATELLI ORSINI, AT
AMAZON.CO.UK.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£3,425, VERSACE
 SKIRT SUITS ARE BACK
IN VOGUE BUT SOBER
PALETTES AREN’T
COMPULSORY. GUCCI’S
BUBBLEGUM TWO-PIECE IS
DECIDEDLY OUT-OF-OFFICE.
THIS PAGE: LEATHER
BLAZER, £3,120. LEATHER
SKIRT, £1,610. BOTH
GUCCI. LEATHER GLOVES,
£120, FRATELLI ORSINI,
AT AMAZON.CO.UK.
TAKE INSPIRATION FROM
SPRING’S ZESTY PALETTE
AND ADD A VIBRANT
ACID-WASH YELLOW TO
YOUR EYES. YSL BEAUTY’S
VERNIS A LEVRES PRIMARY
COLOUR LIP STAIN IN
YELLOW AMPLIFIER, £27, IS
THE PERFECT MATCH.
OPPOSITE: BRA AND
BANDEAU TOP, TO ORDER,
EMPORIO ARMANI.
YELLOW BELT, £324,
ATTICO. JERSEY
LEGGINGS, TO ORDER,
DOLCE & GABBANA.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£1,075, VERSACE.
EARRINGS, £380,
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
DONATELLA VERSACE
IS A WHIZZ AT MICRO
PROPORTIONS. HER
RUCHED MINI DEMANDS
A FLASHBULB MOMENT.
THIS PAGE: LEATHER TOP,
FROM £1,789. LEATHER
SKIRT, FROM £1,200.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£1,980. ALL VERSACE.
LEATHER SANDALS,
£385, STUART WEITZMAN.
DO YOU HAVE A SEDUCTION
DRESS? MODERN
COQUETTES SHOULD
TAP UP BALENCIAGA.
OPPOSITE: LYCRA DRESS,
£4,300, BALENCIAGA.
EARRINGS, AS BEFORE
MELLOW YELLOW?
AS IF. MAX MARA’S
BEROCCA DRESS IS
INSTANTLY ENERGISING.
OPPOSITE: ASYMMETRIC
DRESS, £380. PEPLUM BELT,
£340. BOTH MAX MARA.
LEATHER SANDALS, £575,
JIMMY CHOO. EARRINGS, AS
BEFORE. VINTAGE BROOCH,
£40, GILLIAN HORSUP.
BELT BAGS ARE THE BIG
NEW IDEA IN ACCESSORIES.
SET NEXT TO MOSCHINO’S
SHARPIE SQUIGGLES, THEY
FEEL WONDERFULLY FLIRTY.
THIS PAGE: CROPPED
COTTON TOP, £380.
COTTON SKIRT, £450.
BOTH MOSCHINO. LEATHER
BELT BAG, TO ORDER,
DOLCE & GABBANA.
EARRINGS, AS BEFORE.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION
 THE IRVING PENN FOUNDATION

Nude No.58, New York (1949–50)

 Digestive aid
Nutritionists tell us that gut health holds the key to wellbeing –
but could a revolutionary probiotic dramatically extend the human life span?
Kate Spicer investigates
I
am snooping in the larder at a breathwork retreat in
Gloucestershire when I spot an enticing black-and-
gold glass bottle: “Klotho Formula, microbial complex,
food supplement, made in Switzerland.” I unscrew
the lid. Empty! I was hoping to pinch one, though
God knows, one probiotic wasn’t going to make a
difference, not even one called “Immortalis”.
“What are these?” I ask our host.
“Pull up a chair,” he says, stirring butter and coconut oil
into his “bulletproof ” coffee: a high-fat, low-carb, “clean”
ketogenic diet is part of the Immortalis protocol, along with
drinking water, meditation and exercise. If I want in, I’m
going to have to comply.
In 2017 Marco Ruggiero, a retired professor of molecular
biology, launched what we laypeople call a probiotic
supplement, which contains 10 bacteria commonly found in
the human microbiome, as well as vitamins D and E,
chondroitin sulphate, colostrum and kefir. These work together
to produce something similar to the human protein Klotho.
We need Klotho to repair cell damage, but you can’t eat it,
inject it or transplant it, and until now, no one has claimed
to be able to get it into the human body. But, Ruggiero claims,
the Klotho these bacteria produce in your gut will in turn,
through “quantum entanglement” (when unconnected cells
can communicate), instruct our bodies to make Klotho, too;
not just that, his concoction will also make time slow down
through “relative time dilation”, so that cells have a better
chance of repairing themselves before they get damaged or
mutated. In short, Ruggiero states that Klotho Formula “will
induce age-reversal”. It’s Benjamin Button stuff.
Grappling with quantum physics is not normal behaviour
for me, but life changes when you start communing with
your microbiome. Could the science behind this bacterial
brew really stand up? If so, this is the secret of eternal youth.
Surely it’s rubbish? My host insists that after a year on the
microbes, he is planning his 150th birthday. “All I know is I
feel great, and,” he removes his beanie, “my bald patch has gone.”
Only a few hundred people take it, including Middle Eastern
and Hollywood royalty. This is fun to hear but unverifiable.
The Immortalis website is password protected after the first
page: “Welcome to the greatest health-science innovation in
history.” There are testimonials. Francine in England: “I am 57.
I feel 35 again.” Jill in San Diego, 79: “… a subtle yet powerful
decrease in the jittery feeling of anxiousness and unease”.
Ruggiero, who left academia to found a Swiss company
developing microbiome medicine, has touted his theories at
conferences and in medical journals for some time. Is he snake-
oil salesman or renegade scientist? He has done no clinical trials
because he doesn’t need to – it’s only a supplement – but
customers are encouraged to do before-and-after blood tests.
One man described a 70 per cent reduction in his PINI score
(of inflammatory markers) in three months. What’s more – shock
horror – he had not been sticking to the ketogenic diet.
I have to get on that stuff. Supplies are limited, though.
The Swiss clinic can make only enough for 800 people to
take it a year, and the cost is prohibitive at £5,000 for a three-
month supply of two capsules daily, presented in a satin-lined
mahogany box. Most people, I am told, try it for three months
and then sign up for a year’s supply at £20,000. It’s got the
rarity of luxury goods, the promise of a magic bullet, and, far
less irrationally, it exploits the potential for healing in our gut
microbiome, the place that is the future of medicine.
Our microbiome is being compromised by the increase in
antibiotic-resistant bugs, and Sally Davies, chief medical
advisor to the UK Government, has said we are headed for
“post-antibiotic apocalypse”. The solution lies, says Eve
Kalinik, nutritional therapist and author of Be Good to Your
Gut, “not in antibiotics but in probiotics”. Instead of killing
our microbiome, we can tweak it to fight all kinds of issues.
“The research is developing on a daily basis,” she says. “In
10 years, what we know now will look Neanderthal.”
The human body contains many trillions of microbes. Their
interactions create vitamins, break down our food, fight
infections and communicate with our genes: without a
microbiome we are royally buggered. A healthy person has
several hundred different species of microbes in their gut; an
unhealthy person can have as few as 30.
Caroline Le Roy, a researcher at King’s College London,
has co-authored several studies on the microbiome. “The
microbiome has amazing potential. For example, it predicts
your visceral fat mass,” she says. Like genes, it dictates who
we are to the point that some have mooted that we are
completely steered by this quantum universe. Before the day
when doctors start prescribing medical-grade probiotics
targeted to treat illnesses, she says, we will see them being
prescribed alongside drugs. All drugs, not just antibiotics,
including over-the-counter ones, can affect the microbiome
to some extent. I tell Le Roy about Immortalis, and the claims
that it can tweak the biome to create life-lengthening Klotho
and help us live to 150. She laughs cynically and shrugs (she
is French). “It is not impossible.” But she does not really take
the claims seriously, and suggests the best thing we can do
is “eat organic seasonal veg, particularly cruciferous ones, and
Jerusalem artichokes – there is a lot of research into their
benefits on the microbiome. Eat lots of fibre and fruit,
unpasteurised cheese, nuts, healthy fats, dark chocolate…”
And what about probiotics and “symbiotics” (with added
ingredients to activate the bacteria)? Their global market has
risen from nearly $15 billion in 2007 to over $40 billion in
2017. “And expected to go to $66 billion in 2024. I’m not usually
a probiotic fan,” says Le Roy. “Many introduce just a few bacterial
strains in large numbers, but it is getting better.” > 222
203
 This page: a Fritz Hansen
sofa and chairs add
cosiness to the library,
which leads on to a
cinema room – its walls
featuring hand-painted
The Hindustan wallpaper
by Zuber. Opposite:
Christian Louboutin
in “the party room”.
The shoe designer sourced
the tiles in Portugal and
found the rug at a Paris
auction house – it
originally came from the
Château de Groussay,
where, coincidentally,
he spent weekends as
a teenager. Grooming:
Jill Hornby. Production:
Bruno Delfino at Shoot
Portugal. Digital artwork:
Processus Photo. Sittings
editor: Gianluca Longo

204
 High
splendour SHOE DESIGNER CHRISTIAN
LOUBOUTIN’S LISBON VILLA BEARS
ALL THE HALLMARKS OF HIS
EXTRAVAGANT TASTE, FINDS ELLIE PITHERS.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANÇOIS HALARD
O
ne bright afternoon in Lisbon, Christian Louboutin
is trying to decide where to go for dinner. He
gives his guests three choices, denoted by the
letters “M”, “V” and “F”, and calls a vote. “M”
stands for the restaurant where the speciality is mushrooms.
“The staff are so rude, it’s not a very nice place, but the
mushrooms are amazing,” he says. “V” is for view. “It’s
traditional food and the view over Lisbon is incroyable.” “F”
is for fado, the mournful Portuguese folk music. “I hate fado,
it’s so depressing. But this is manageable – it’s almost like
flamenco.” Each person writes down a letter on a scrap of
paper and casts it into Louboutin’s trilby. I pull out the winner:
fado. “That’s the answer I wanted!” he yelps, merrily.
Louboutin, 56, likes options. How else to explain the eight
residences he flits between according to his whim? There is
an apartment near the Opéra area of Paris; a 13th-century
château in the Vendée region of France, co-owned with his
business partner Bruno Chambelland; a house and a dahabiya,
a traditional two-masted sailing boat, near Luxor in Egypt;
an apartment in LA; a Brazilian bolthole in Rio de Janeiro;
a semi-destroyed palace in Aleppo, Syria; a compound of
beach villas in Melides, on Portugal’s Alentejo coast; and this
villa in Lisbon’s historic old town, another joint venture with
Chambelland, in which we are sipping mint tea. “I have
houses in places where there has been a lot of culture,” he
shrugs. “I would never have a house on an island with two
coconuts.” He pauses. “But, I don’t consider that I have a
house in LA because I sort of gave it to a friend of mine.
And I haven’t been to Aleppo since 2010. A part of the house
is still standing, but I just feel bad about what has happened
in the country more than I care about the house.”
Louboutin spends most of his time in Paris, where he was
born, and where, in 1991, he set up his phenomenally
successful shoe business. Instantly recognisable by their blood-
red soles, more than 800,000 pairs of Louboutins are produced high in the Alfama neighbourhood and boasts an invigorating
a year. Those shoes, as well as the handbag, beauty and view of the Tagus Estuary. It dates from the 16th century,
perfume divisions they spawned, have financed his prodigious but was razed during the 1755 earthquake. The ruins were
wanderlust: weekends often involve jaunts to the Vendée, then bought by a Portuguese family who subsequently
where he has cultivated a magnificent garden (in his twenties, emigrated to Brazil to trade in precious wood. When they
he spent a year working as a landscape gardener). Every returned, they brought a Brazilian sensibility with them. “The
March, he travels to Egypt to check on the progress of the house is pretty traditional, but I like that it feels colourful,”
archaeological mission he co-sponsors: the restoration of the Louboutin says. “It’s lighter than all that very dark, dark
Colossi of Memnon and the Temple of Amenhotep III. Portuguese wood. The colours are more lively and playful.”
Summers are spent between Melides and Lisbon, where he Still, the house needed updating when Louboutin eventually
designs the winter collections. There are myriad work trips took possession of it. He immediately set about sourcing a
abroad – the company operates some 158 stores worldwide pair of figura de convite, life-size tiled cut-outs of footmen
– accompanied by his butler, Safquat. Somehow, he still finds that traditionally reside at the entrances of palaces to welcome
time to explore uncharted waters: when we meet, he is visitors. He also engaged a local architect, Maria Madalene
planning to see in the New Year in Senegal with his Portuguese Caiado, to help reunite the house, which had been split into
boyfriend, Rui Freitas, 33, a florist who has just opened an three separate apartments. Over a period of two and a half
interiors shop called Vida Dura in Melides. years, the ground floor was refurbished as a modern, self-
Opposite: clockwise
Their love affair partly explains his desire for a pad in contained living space; the first floor entirely redecorated from top left, an original
Lisbon, where Freitas is based. That said, Louboutin has with locally sourced tiled panels from the Napoleonic period Jean-Charles Moreux
table dominates the
been coming to Portugal since the early 1980s. “Lisbon has and stuccoed ceilings commissioned from nearby Cascais; library, which features
changed a lot, but it’s still beautiful,” he says. He wanted to and the second-floor bedrooms made over with ensuite an original wooden arch;
buy an apartment here, so that he could stop-over on his way bathrooms and modern-day heating. a detail inside the former
billiard room – now a
from Melides to Lisbon airport, but Chambelland said it was The result is jaw-dropping decadence. Upon entry, one sitting room filled with
madness. “I always rely on what Bruno says, because he’s ascends a grand staircase, its walls boasting a tropical mural Syrian tables; the terrace
definitely smarter than me, so I didn’t buy the apartment,” by the Bulgarian artist Boris Deltchev. Light streams through overlooks the Tagus
Estuary; Louboutin found
he recalls. “Then, a month later, he found this house. I said, jewel-toned glass windows, illuminating emerald-painted this French chandelier
‘Are you crazy? You wouldn’t let me buy an apartment, now leaves drifting into faint sketches in the farthest corners, an at a bazaar in India.
Above: the Wedgwood
you want me to buy a house?’ He said, ‘Oh, but it’s very pretty.’ effect that recalls the marks left by ivy when it’s prised away Room, where Louboutin
He was right, of course.” from an old wall. On we go to the tiled ballroom, empty added a fireplace lined
“Pretty” doesn’t do justice to the scale of this imposing save for a velvet-upholstered boudoir sofa, a couple of with panels from a
Portuguese fountain,
palace. Tiled with the elaborate azulejo tiles that have rendered cabinets topped with curiosities – a tribal marriage token offset by a bronze Janine
Lisbon an Instagrammer’s delight, it stands three storeys from Maprik, Papua New Guinea, an assortment of > Janet unicorn sculpture
 blue-and-white Chinese porcelain, a papier-mâché lizard –
and two Indo-Portuguese chairs purchased in a Parisian flea
market. “This is the party room,” Louboutin explains, recalling
a recent celebration: a candlelit dinner for 80 guests in honour
of the journalist Suzy Menkes. “It got so hot with all those
candles, we had to throw open all the windows.”
Then there are the chandeliers. Louboutin has a close friend
living and working in Murano, and it shows: curlicued glass
and huge beaded exemplars quiver beneath intricately painted
ceilings throughout the house. “When it came to the ceilings,
I thought, well, we can’t hide them. So, we embraced them,
adding colour [fondant pink, pistachio, ruby red] and gold
leaf,” says Louboutin. “Once the ceilings were painted, I
decided not to have French crystal chandeliers, but more
colourful ones, so it felt super-pompous. I just thought, let’s
go for it!” In the cinema room, its walls illustrated with scenes
of India, hangs a multi-pronged iteration smothered with
sea shells. “I have a history with chandeliers,” Louboutin
sighs. “I bought this years ago – I found it in India but it’s
a French piece – and kept it in storage until now. It took
weeks to reassemble.”
Above, from left: the An auction nut, Louboutin is never more excited than
flower room, where
Louboutin’s florist
when truffling out antiques that others have overlooked. His
boyfriend Rui Freitas best prize yet is the Jean-Charles Moreux marble table that
assembles arrangements; sits in the library, which even he didn’t realise was an original
the entrance hall, with its
grand staircase, features and almost chopped in half so that Freitas could use it as a
a tropical mural by cuttings bench for his flowers. “Someone saw it outside in
Bulgarian artist Boris the rain and said, ‘This is one of the most important tables
Deltchev. Opposite: the
billiard room-turned- in the world! Are you out of your mind?’ And then I realised
sitting room, where he was right. It’s an original.” His bidding philosophy is
Louboutin takes coffee.
He added the ceiling
simple: if you adore it, buy it. “You only regret what you don’t
fretwork after buying the get,” he says. What did he buy at the last auction? “A staircase.
house, commissioning I have no idea who it is by, but I know it’s incredible.”
artisans in nearby
Cascais to create the His visual memory is razor-sharp. “It drives everybody
intricate stucco design crazy,” he laughs. “For instance, when I go to the factory in
Italy, I say, ‘Hold on a second, there was a prototype I was
working on two seasons ago that I set aside because it could
have been better. Where is it now?’ They are like, ‘Oh, God.
Out of 500 prototypes he’s talking about one he made a year
and a half ago.’ But I absolutely remember things like that.”
His aesthetic sensitivity is similarly acute and affects the
mood with which he constructs his interior schemes. Murano
chandeliers, for instance, would “never, never, never” work in
his Paris apartment. “I like coloured glass with the transparency
of the light going through – it needs to be in sunlight. Paris
is too grey.” Equally, the dark, heavy haute époque furniture
in his Lisbon dining room – the only pieces he kept when
he inherited the property – works within the stencilled walls
of this traditional gallery, “but it’s not something I would
consider anywhere else”.
His impulsive desire to acquire coupled with a professional
eye explains the eclectic mix of decades and styles throughout
his home. In the library, a set of fluffy armchairs by Fritz
Hansen sit alongside a Native American kachina doll and a
17th-century Peruvian Christ. In what Louboutin calls the
Wedgwood Room, on account of its pale jasperware-blue
ceiling, a Janine Janet bronze unicorn sits alongside a south
Indian torso sculpture and an Indonesian crown purchased
when Louboutin visited Borobudur, the Buddhist temple in
Java. They are offset by a 1930s Mexican table and a pair of
satin-backed tub armchairs from America. On the wall hangs
a 16th-century portrait of Louis de Beauvau, a smug-looking
military man with extraordinarily shapely legs.
The legs, it turns out, are the very thing that lured
Louboutin in. “I think his legs are incredible – so elegant.”
He pauses. “When I am doing shoes, I am always thinking
first of legs. The idea of having nude on your shoe gives you
better legs. He has white stockings and white shoes – I was
fascinated by that.” The only thing that could improve it?
A flash of red peeking out. “I owe a lot to red.” Q
 THIS SEASON’S
GOLD AND PRECIOUS
STONES RESEMBLE

FROM
RICHES CRAFTED IN
AN ANCIENT WORLD.
IT’S TIME TO UNLEASH

BYZANTIUM
YOUR INNER EMPRESS,
SAYS CAROL WOOLTON.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
NICK KNIGHT

GOLD AND PEARL NECKLACE, £105,000.

MATCHING BROOCH, WORN ON EAR,
£70,000. BOTH BUCCELLATI. GOLD,
SILVER AND DIAMOND COIN NECKLACE,
BULGARI. GOLD AND DIAMOND SNAKE
NECKLACE, WORN BETWEEN FINGERS,
£14,500, THEO FENNELL. GOLD,
ROSE-QUARTZ AND SWAROVSKI-
DIAMOND EARRINGS, WORN BETWEEN
FINGERS, £2,590, ATELIER SWAROVSKI
BY STEPHEN WEBSTER. GOLD AND
HERKIMER-DIAMOND RING, £5,500,
PIPPA SMALL. PAVE-DIAMOND RING,
£12,800, BELMACZ. WORN ON
SHOULDER: GOLD CHAIN WITH DISCS,
£2,620, ANISSA KERMICHE. MACRAME
CHAIN NECKLACE, ALEXANDRA JEFFORD.
NECKLACE WITH CHARMS, WORN
ON LEG, £6,010, LARKSPUR & HAWK,
AT LIBERTY. BRACELETS, £365 EACH,
SONIA PETROFF. BODY, THROUGHOUT,
FROM A SELECTION, NUBIAN SKIN.
HAIR: SAM MCKNIGHT. MAKE-UP:
VAL GARLAND. NAILS: MARIAN NEWMAN.
SET DESIGN: ANDREW TOMLINSON.
PRODUCTION: SHOW STUDIO. DIGITAL
ARTWORK: EPILOGUE IMAGING.
MODEL: DUCKIE THOT
 THIS PAGE: CRYSTAL AND
GOLD-PLATED GOGGLES,
YUNUS & ELIZA. GOLD AND
DIAMOND COLLAR, £14,200,
MESSIKA, AT SELFRIDGES.
GOLD AND DIAMOND LION
NECKLACE, CHANEL FINE
JEWELLERY. DIAMOND
FRINGE NECKLACE,
GARRARD. EMERALD BEAD
NECKLACE, MOUSSAIEFF.
GOLD LATTICE CUFF,
£20,000. GOLD AND
DIAMOND LATTICE CUFF.
BOTH DIOR JOAILLERIE.
GOLD CUFF, £30,600,
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS.
SPINEL AND DIAMOND RING,
DE GRISOGONO. CITRINE
RING, £1,950, STEPHEN
WEBSTER. GOLD-VERMEIL
RING, £395, SHAUN LEANE.
OPPOSITE: DIAMOND
BEAD NECKLACE, CHATILA.
CRYSTAL BRANCH, FROM
£845, GOOSSENS & HARUMI
KLOSSOWSKA DE ROLA.
GOLD-VERMEIL AND
DIAMOND LONG EARRING,
£450, SHAUN LEANE. PEARL
HOOP EARRING, £364,
MARIA TASH, AT LIBERTY

212
OPPOSITE: TIARA,
SOLANGE AZAGURY-
PARTRIDGE. PERIDOT
AND SPINEL EARRINGS,
BULGARI. GOLD AND
DIAMOND NECKLACE,
HERMES. GOLD-VERMEIL
CUFF, £1,600, SHAUN
LEANE. WHITE-GOLD AND
AMETHYST CUFF, CHOPARD.
RUBELLITE RING, ARA
VARTANIAN. GOLD AND
SILVER COIN RING, BULGARI.
THIS PAGE: GOLD, OPAL,
TOPAZ AND PEARL EARRINGS,
WORN IN HAIR, £6,100, ELIE
TOP. GOLD HOOP NECKLACE,
ALEXANDRA JEFFORD.
MEYA PROSPERITY PEAR-
SHAPED DIAMOND, GRAFF.
PRICES ON REQUEST
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION
END
GAME
IT WAS THE
PHENOMENON THAT
CHANGED THE FACE
OF TELEVISION – AND
THE LIVES OF THE
WOMEN WHO STARRED
IN IT. AS THE FINAL
SEASON AIRS, FOUR
LEADING BRITS BID
FAREWELL TO GAME
OF THRONES. BY ZING
TSJENG. PHOTOGRAPHS
BY JACK DAVISON.
STYLING BY
NELL KALONJI
 The atmosphere
is less Red Wedding
massacre, more
congenial college
reunion. From left:
Sophie Turner wears
asymmetric jersey
dress, from £3,790,
Givenchy. Shirt,
£165, Richard James.
Poloneck, £109, Falke.
Gwendoline Christie
wears satin dress,
£5,700, Balenciaga.
Lena Headey wears
satin blouse, £1,295,
Balenciaga. Maisie
Williams wears
silk-crêpe dress, from
£6,170, Givenchy.
Poloneck, £109, Falke.
Hair: Mari Ohashi.
Make-up: Mathias van
Hooff. Nails: Michelle
Class. Set design:
Alice Kirkpatrick.
Digital artwork:
Studio RM
 “NONE OF US KNEW…
YOU DO YOUR AUDITION,
YOU GET A JOB AND
THEN YOU THINK, ‘WILL
ANYONE WATCH THIS?’”

I
n leafy Dulwich, south London, four stars from Game
of Thrones convene in a Georgian house for Vogue.
With the sky outside a washed-out grey, the jewel-
like colours of their Balenciaga and Givenchy gowns
are almost obscenely bright.
In the fictional world of Westeros, a mighty
gathering such as this would be a prelude to war. After all,
these women play four of the strongest characters on the
blockbuster HBO series that helped revitalise the TV
landscape, launched a thousand water-cooler conversations,
won 47 Emmys and turned a generation of British talent,
including this foursome, into bankable global stars.
If Game of Thrones proves anything, it’s that it requires full
commitment – to gore, intricate plotting and gargantuan
world-building – to craft a cultural phenomenon. Same-day
viewers quadrupled since the first season, in 2011; cross-
platform numbers for the seventh season averaged 30.6 million
viewers per episode – more than the populations of Greece
and Belgium combined; and for seven consecutive years it
was the world’s most pirated TV show. Fans breathlessly pore
over every last detail that emerges from the notoriously tight-
lipped set, right down to the size of the green screens being
used or the choice of crown deployed for each character. The
series has dispelled the idea that fantasy is solely for male
dweebs. It’s no understatement to say that the forthcoming the musician Joe Jonas, while Williams has launched Daisie,
eighth season – the show’s final six instalments – is the most a social networking platform for creatives. “The older ones of
exciting TV comeback of the year. us always go, ‘Look, it’s f**king killed us!’” Headey laughs.
Lena Headey, 45, who plays merciless Queen Cersei, arrives “Then you watch Maisie, who arrived as a baby, and Soph,
first on set in a shaggy faux fur-trimmed Acne coat – a post- who are now these incredible women. It’s just bonkers.”
Christmas gift to herself, she tells me. Gwendoline Christie, It’s easy to forget this TV goliath was once a risky
whose 6ft 3in frame led to her casting as noble warrior Brienne, proposition. Game of Thrones arrived in 2011, a decidedly
appears in a necklace and dressing gown. “There she is! The unmagical time in entertainment. The Lord of the Rings trilogy
lady of the day!” Headey cries. Christie, 40, puts on her best had been and gone; the Harry Potter films had just wrapped.
fashion-assistant voice: “When you’re ready,” she demurs, as Critics turned up their noses at the idea of a fantasy series
if about to usher Headey on set. They burst into laughter. that combined CGI dragons with Tarantino-style violence
Sophie Turner, 23, now fronting the X-Men franchise with and West Wing-level political machinations. “None of us
a lead role in Dark Phoenix, shrieks when she sees Headey knew,” Headey says. “You do your audition, you get a job and
and zeroes in for a hug: “I haven’t seen you in ages!” Maisie then you think, ‘Will anyone watch this?’”
Williams, 21, who turned up earlier in leopard-print Dr But they did. After a slow-burning first season, executive
Martens, is already on the lookout for Turner. Both young producers David Benioff and Dan Weiss set the ratings on
actresses have fan armies of devoted teens who have jointly fire when they killed off their seeming central lead, Sean
crowned them #Mophie, but it appears no one is more devoted Bean’s ill-fated patriarch Ned Stark. Audiences were thrilled
to the pair than the girls are to each other. “Is she here yet?” to know that nobody on the show was safe – a fact confirmed “Maisie and Soph,
asks Williams, letting out an elated cry when she is informed by subsequent deaths in their multitudes. Beloved characters who arrived as
that her best friend from the show is, indeed, present. have been poisoned, stabbed, blown up, eaten by dogs, shot babies, are now these
incredible women.
The atmosphere is less Red Wedding massacre, more with arrows, starved, beheaded and burnt at the stake. It It’s just bonkers.”
congenial college reunion. The actors have been working makes for uniquely stressful viewing, with each instalment Opposite: Sophie
together for almost a decade. Thrones is a “big chunk of my of the final season costing a staggering $15 million (episodes wears wool/cotton
blazer, £1,700.
existence”, Christie says. Or, as Headey has it even more of Netflix’s big budget Stranger Things cost $8 million). Cashmere poloneck
directly, it’s been long enough for “two children and a divorce”. As the new season begins, Williams, Turner and Christie’s body, £1,400. Both
Louis Vuitton.
Williams and Turner were only 12 and 13 when they were characters are hunkered down in Winterfell, the ancestral Earring, price on
cast respectively as sisters Arya and Sansa Stark, the former a castle of the Stark clan. The army of the dead – led by request, Alan Crocetti.
tomboy turned assassin, the latter the brat who matured into terrifying supernatural warriors known as the White Walkers Above: Maisie wears
belted jacket, £1,395,
the queenly Lady Stark of Winterfell. Their lives have changed – are marching towards them. Further south, Cersei – newly Simone Rocha.
in real life, too, of course. Filming aside, Turner is engaged to pregnant by way of her long-term sexual relationship > Shirt, £109, Boss

219

with her twin brother, Jaime – is plotting to wipe out the
Starks and any other threat to her reign.
Understandably, there is a whiff of battle-hardened
weariness to the group. The final season took 10 months to
film, including a much-hyped fight scene that was shot
outdoors for 55 nights before moving to a studio for further
weeks. “All the training in the world couldn’t have prepared
me for the amount of stamina you needed for these night
shoots,” Williams says. “It gets to the point where it’s four
o’clock in the morning and you’re looking around like, ‘This
is ridiculous. What are we doing?’”
Such is the secrecy around the show that even the normally
garrulous Christie clams up when asked about the battle:
“There’s an increasing darkness in Westeros,” she says.
Headey is more circumspect about the whole experience.
“It’s long hours and hard work,” she says. Amid the exhaustion
is pride and a palpable sense of mourning as the action comes
to an end. Tears on last days on set were not uncommon.
“The key players
this season are all
When the time came to shoot Turner’s final scene, she says,
female, which is why “I couldn’t control myself. I cried for hours and hours once
it’s so amazing we’re it wrapped. It was like leaving behind a character that I’ve
doing this shoot.”
Above: Lena wears grown up with. It’s almost like a death.”
coat, from £1,460, When Game of Thrones premiered, much was made of its
Ann Demeulemeester. no-holds-barred approach to female nudity, rape and violence.
Shirt, £145, Max Mara.
Opposite: Gwendoline Turner’s character, Sansa, in particular, was put through the
wears embroidered wringer – she was first betrothed to abusive boy king Joffrey
denim dress, £3,740,
Alexander McQueen.
Baratheon, then married off to psychopathic sadist Ramsay
Shirt, £225, Raey, at Bolton. Her rape at the hands of the latter, in particular, had
Matchesfashion.com. viewers up in arms. “There are some people who make
Poloneck, £109, Falke.
For stockists, all pages, comments like, ‘It’s a misogynistic show because all these
see Vogue Information women are getting raped,’” she says passionately. “[But] most
“PEOPLE MAKE COMMENTS
LIKE, ‘IT’S A MISOGYNISTIC
SHOW.’ BUT THE PEOPLE
COMING OUT ON TOP
ARE WOMEN”
of the people coming out on top are women.” Williams agrees:
“I’d say the key players this season are all female, which is
why it’s so amazing we’re doing this shoot today.”
Thanks to seasons-long narrative arcs, female characters
– sometimes given short shrift in cinema – are maturing and
developing over time. Brienne, for one, has been a joy to
watch. Playing the warrior with a heart of gold has left a
deep impression on Christie. “I do see Brienne of Tarth as a
modern day Joan of Arc,” she says. Will she consummate her
romantic tension with Jaime or the strapping fighter Tormund?
“What I will say is, I’m happy to see more of Brienne of Tarth
the woman explored this season,” she teases.
Headey maintains that, along with Martin, it was always
the producers’ plan to upend the patriarchy of Westeros.
“That’s why they could shoulder all of the criticism – they
knew what was coming and what they had in store for these
women,” she says. Did she ever doubt them? There’s a flash
of Cersei-like steel in her look. “No.” Headey would know:
she’s had plenty of encounters with overbearing men, having
spoken out about the bullying she endured on the set of The
Brothers Grimm and a near-miss encounter with Harvey
Weinstein (she escaped when the key card to his hotel room
didn’t work). What would Cersei do to people like him?
“Hotdogs for sale,” she says, smiling.
As a parting gift, each actor was given a storyboard of
Weiss and Benioff ’s favourite scenes – Headey got the
“moment where Cersei sits on the throne and Jaime comes
back and sees her”, she says; Turner took the liberty of
taking her corset home. “Everyone else has something
that runs with them throughout the show, like a sword,”
she explains, laughing. “I didn’t have anything that stayed
the same except for my corset.”
As for the wrap party? In keeping with the House of
Stark’s famous motto, “Winter Is Coming”, HBO booked
Snow Patrol to play for the cast and crew in Belfast;
footage later uploaded to Twitter shows a tipsy crowd
singing along to the show’s distinctive cello theme.
“Goodbye, Belfast,” Williams posted on Instagram on the
last day of shooting. “Goodbye, Arya. Goodbye, Game of
Thrones. What a joy I’ve had.”
Well, not quite goodbye. HBO is already casting an as yet
untitled Game of Thrones prequel, set thousands of years before
the original, with Naomi Watts signing on to star as a
mysterious charismatic socialite. And this isn’t the end for
the women of Westeros. Already they’re appearing in each
others’ projects – Headey has directed a music video starring
Williams for the English singer-songwriter Freya Ridings
– and sitting front row together at fashion weeks. Best of all,
they even have their own group chat going. “It’s like this big
WhatsApp group with David and Dan and all the cast in
it,” Turner says. “It’s called ‘Game of Thrones Alumni’.”
“Actually,” she corrects herself, “we changed the name. It’s
called ‘Mates’ now.” Q
The eighth and final season of Game of Thrones begins on 15 April
on Sky Atlantic and Now TV

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VOGUE INFORMATION < 203 DIGESTIVE AID
The merchandise featured editorially has been ordered from the following stores. Some shops For a really complex probiotic, you can’t get better
may carry a selection only. Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press, than the faecal matter of a healthy person with a
but we cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that specific items will be in stock when diverse gut flora. Faecal Microbiota Transplant
the magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting a shop you phone to make sure they
have your size. In case of difficulty, contact Vogue’s Merchandise Department (020 7499 (FMT), or poo transplants, have proved effective at
9080). Where unspecified, stockists are in London or general enquiry numbers are given. treating many conditions that modern medicine
cannot. Says Le Roy, “If you give someone obese
A Emporio Armani O
Agnona 020 7225 5787 020 7491 8080 Omega 0845 272 3100 with type 2 diabetes an FMT from the microbiome
Alancrocetti.com Erdem 020 3653 0360 Onarstudios.com of a skinny person, you can improve insulin sensitivity
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Alexandrevauthier.com Escada 020 7245 9800 Osmanlondon.com In the future, will a pill made of supermodel
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Anndemeulemeester.com Frame-store.com Patek Philippe 020 7493 8866 There are hundreds of trials around the world into
Ara Vartanian 020 7493 4751 G Philipp Plein 020 7629 3539 these transplants, and while they show hope for
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Atelier Swarovski by Stephen Garrard 020 7518 1070 Piersatkinson.com diabetes, obesity, gut issues, autism, cancer and liver
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Nevertheless, I nag my parents to consider FMT for
020 7659 7300 Klossowska de Rola Pyermoss.com my learning-disabled, anxious and autistic brother,
B Goossens-paris.com R
Balenciaga 020 7317 4400 Graff 020 7584 8571 Rayneshoes.co.uk who suffers from IBS. Study after study has shown
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Belstaff.co.uk Hermès 020 7499 8856 Rick Owens 020 7493 7145 mental health issues. The age of microbes for the
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Bohemiadesign.com Hugo 020 8735 4780 Roger Vivier 020 7245 8270 After about a week I text the nutritional therapist
Boss 020 7734 7919 J Russell & Bromley Rosemary Ferguson, who has helped me transition
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020 7838 9394 Jilsander.com S into the ketogenic diet Ruggiero insists on, saying
Boucheron 020 7514 9170 Jimmy Choo 020 7493 5858 Saint Laurent by Anthony
Brownsfashion.com Johnsmedley.com Vaccarello 020 7235 6706 I feel really good. “Could it be the Klotho Formula?”
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C Kenzo 020 7491 8469 Siesmarjan.com know what is the diet and what is the pills, but I have
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC L Simone Rocha 020 7629 6317
Calvinklein.com Lemaire.fr Solange Azagury-Partridge a strong ‘everything is going to be OK’ feeling.”
Carolina Bucci 020 7838 9977 Libertylondon.com 020 7792 0197
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020 7491 8200 Loro Piana 020 7499 9300 Stephen Webster a scientist who spends a lot of time trying to explain
Chanel 020 7493 5040 Louis Vuitton 020 7998 6286 020 3298 0970 things to people who do not really understand him.
Chanel Fine Jewellery M Stuart Weitzman
020 7499 0005 Mackintosh.com 020 7287 2692 “The human microbiome is involved in the
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development and function of all organs and systems
Chaumet 020 7495 6303 Maison Margiela Swarosvki.com and most notably the immune system,” he explains.
Chloé 020 3057 4000 020 7629 2682 Symondspearmain.com
Chopard 020 7287 8710 Maje 020 7734 3447 T Why Klotho, though? There are many thousands
Christopher Kane Marc-cain.com Tattydevine.com of different proteins in the human body. “Yes, and
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Coreymoranis.com Margaret Howell Theofennell.com each one is important in its own way. I couldn’t work
Corneliawebb.com 020 7009 9009 Theory.com on all of them. Klotho is an age-suppressing gene
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Courreges.com Max Mara 020 7499 7902 Timeless Pearly whose over-expression leads to extended life span.
C Mcmworldwide.com infos.timeless@gmail.com I am expecting, together with a healthy lifestyle, it
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De Grisogono 020 7499 2225 Miansai.com Tory Burch 020 7493 5888 will help prevent the onset of age-related conditions.
Delvaux 020 7493 5658 Miu Miu 020 7409 0900 Tuzajewelry.com
Dianekordasjewellery.com MM6 Maison Margiela V We have a number of ultra-centenarians, and what
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Dior Joaillerie 020 7172 0172 Moschino 020 7318 0555 Valentino Garavani
Dkny.com Moussaieff 020 7290 1536 020 7235 5855 have a different gut microbiota. It contributes to life
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Dover Street Market Nanushka.com Victoriagrant.co.uk the most powerful agent for human wellness available.”
020 7518 0680 Nike.com Y
E Ninaricci.com Yunus-eliza.co.uk After a month I stare into my empty black-and-
Elietop.com Noelstewart.com Z
Emilia Wickstead Noorfares.com Zara.com gold pot and know I want more. Because I do feel
020 7235 1104 Nubianskin.com Zohrarahman.com different. I am more resilient, sharper, but most
interestingly, the 21st-century perma-state of anxiety
Vogue is published monthly by the proprietors, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square,
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 VOGUE’S TRAVEL COLLECTION

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IG @THERESORTVILLA THERESORTVILLA.COM

. . . .
2019 Edition in Megève, French Alps
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 VOGUE’S TRAVEL COLLECTION

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 VOGUE’S TRAVEL COLLECTION

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 Live at Television Centre
The restaurants are open. The studios are recording. The gym is buzzing.
And the apartments are completed and ready for living.

Apartments from £785,000*

Premium & penthouses from £2,500,000*

*prices correct at time

of going to press

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televisioncentre.com
 In a [XMKQIT[]XXTMUMV\, Condé Nast Property shines
a spotlight on the SMaXTIaMZ[and the UW[\M`KQ\QVO
VM_LM^MTWXUMV\[ on the property scene. Discover the
people and places on our radar this spring

The Russian House in The Vale,

Chelsea – an example of a spectacular
property sold by Russell Simpson

Centre Stage
PROPERTY | PROMOTION
Centre Stage
Back to the Future
Islington Square is an exciting new destination developed by Cain International in partnership with
Galliard Homes, located just a 10-minute walk from Angel Station. Combining restored Edwardian
buildings with striking new-build elements, this “city within a city” offers stylish living
I
ABOVE, n the 17th and 18th centuries, Islington was considered
The design-led a tranquil retreat for holidaymakers seeking respite
living spaces are from the mad flurry of life in central London. There were
finished to a high green fields, fine manors, a wine merchant and a spa resort,
standard of based around monastic springs on a former priory opposite
refinement, style Sadler’s Wells Theatre. Roll forward several centuries…
and sustainability and, on a site tucked behind the 21st-century café culture of
with outstanding Upper Street, you find Islington Square. Developed by
and chic internal Cain International and Sager Group, in association with
specifications
Galliard Homes, this new destination of 263 homes,
serviced apartments, retail outlets, restaurants and leisure
facilities taps into the historic association with wellbeing,
matching contemporary design with debonair charm.
Until 2015, the site was the North London Royal Mail
sorting office. A trio of impressive buildings, with a spacious
reception area, comprise the residential element of this 4.5-
acre development, providing warehouse-style apartments,
luxury maisonettes and grand penthouses (each with a
rooftop swimming pool and garden). As an architectural
entity, numbers 8, 11 and 17 Esther Anne Place merge
Edwardian redbrick hallmarks with complementary new-
build design. Peter Chan, the 21-time Chelsea Gold
medallist and Bonsai artist, will create London’s largest
CONDÉ NAST PROPERT Y
Zen Garden to establish a serene meditative space at the
heart of the residences.
This month Galliard Homes launch the first on-site,
dressed one-bedroom and two-bedroom show apartments
to enable prospective buyers to get a tangible taste of life in
this Edwardian-meets-Modern masterpiece. The first
phase of penthouses sold out off-plan, but a second phase
are also being released for sale. In addition, a collection of
maisonette apartments are available to buy. Interior finishes
earn the Galliard ‘Platinum Collection’ stamp, with
bespoke detailing such as brick feature walls, sleek oak
flooring, coffered ceilings and period windows. Valcucine
Artematica kitchen units with ‘A’-rated appliances and
underfloor heating add contemporary style and comfort.
With two covered shopping arcades linked by tree-lined
boulevards to Upper Street, and a public realm spanning
170,000 square feet – featuring a luxury cinema and a Third
Space health club, which boasts a 25m pool – Islington Square
is being heralded as a £400million Covent Garden-style
destination. “We are pioneering the concept of wellness and
real estate working hand in hand, creating a much-needed,
harmonious meditative space away from the hustle and
bustle of London and a wonderful line back to the site’s
historic focus on well-being,” says David Galman, Sales
Director at Galliard Homes.
For further information, please call 020 3874 0927 or visit
galliardhomes.com/islington-square
 Centre Stage

A Tale of Insta-appeal
What better way to mark 40 years as a forward-thinking, independent London agency than
to open a new office? Russell Simpson, established in Chelsea, predicts an exciting year ahead
for buyers and tenants with its expansion into Kensington and Notting Hill

S
pring, the season of renewal, is traditionally a time
when new homes are sought and the market blooms
with a flowering of properties available for sale or
to be let. For activity, opportunities, a forward-thinking
attitude and evidence of growth even in the challenging
environment of 2019, look no further than Russell
Simpson. The independent, family-run agency is
celebrating 40 years in prime central London with the
opening of a second office to meet the demands of its
flourishing sales and lettings departments.
For decades, Russell Simpson has sold and let some of
the most prestigious properties in Chelsea – exceptional
period mansions to luxury new-build apartments – from
an office based in a terraced house just off the King’s
Road. Not having a shop-front emphasised discretion and
considered service (the new office also operates from a we’ve created our own readership who follow our online
discreet location on Holland Street W8, between Notting magazine,” says Bertie. “People don’t read what’s landed
Hill and Kensington). The agency’s history of transactions through their letter box or even read their emails.
overseen with meticulous care translates into a depth of We WhatsApp and text clients. We’ve always taken a
experience and savviness that makes the close-knit team’s progressive approach to business.”
advice on all property matters highly valued. Established in Chelsea, Russell Simpson’s expertise has
“We have picked up a huge number of new enquiries,” long extended into Kensington and Notting Hill too. Busier
reports Bertie Russell, one of four of founder Alan Russell’s than ever, the second office will focus on expansion. The
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP six children who work for the business, each developing familial manner that has always differentiated the agency
RIGHT, the different aspects of the boutique approach. “Clients like has added resonance today. “The recent downturn has
Russian House the fact that we’re not a big corporate giant and that we can made it much more of a residential market than an invest-
in The Vale; empathise with individual situations. Lettings have thrived ment market,” says Bertie. “We are dealing with more local
Leo, Hermione, off the back of Brexit. On the sales side, we have always buyers looking for family homes or convenient apartments
Alan, Bertie and been committed to giving advice for the long-term; we like and fewer speculative investors. Buyers are typically
Jake Russell; to present our clients with as many options as possible so becoming more and more open-minded about location.”
a grand artist’s that they are in a position to make the best decision.” For further information, please call Chelsea on 020 7225 0277
studio in Mallord Social media has proved vital in inspiring and or Kensington & Notting Hill on 020 3761 9691, email info@
Street, SW3 maintaining a connection with clients. “With Instagram, russellsimpson.co ussellsimpson.co
Centre Stage
The World is your Shop Window
Is your second home à vendre or in vendita, but not selling? Give your marketing
a supersonic boost, save commission, and take back control by listing it on The Viewing
– the online site where luxury home owners and buyers meet
T
he choices involved in buying a holiday home are a
combination of personal preferences – of location,
style of property, climate and proximity to lifestyle
passions. When it comes to selling your much-loved second
home, the question arises: how many like-minded buyers
are out there? How do you find someone else who will
appreciate your Tuscany farmhouse with artist’s studio,
your beachfront villa in Antigua, your Provencal retreat close
to prime golf courses, or your luxury condo in Phuket?
Frustrated owners of refurbished châteaux and off-the
beaten-track idylls across France, Italy and Spain will
confirm that homes can languish for years with local
agents, who traditionally target the UK market. “To find a
buyer, you need to cast your net globally and reach out to
CLOCKWISE overseas buyers from the United States, China, Russia, the
FROM ABOVE Middle East, India, Canada, Turkey and Europe,” says
Estate with avocado Gemma Bruce, founder of The Viewing (the-viewing.com).
farm in Andalusia, With more than a decade of experience working as a
Spain; chalet with broker for high-end overseas homes, Bruce’s brilliant
views of the concept is to offer all the marketing tools of an overseas
Matterhorn, estate agency without charging commission. For a one-
Cervinia, Italy; off fee (from £790 to £2,230 + VAT), you can select a
Gemma Bruce package that gets your property global exposure to buyers.
CONDÉ NAST PROPERT Y I N S TA G R A M : T H E _ V I E W I N G FA C E B O O K : @ T H E V I E W I N G L U X U R Y
Your property details will be published on Zoopla and
Primelocation in the UK market, but also on powerful
international portals such as Wall Street Journal Real
Estate, Mansion Global, Prian, Mer et Demeures, Domaza,
Nidski, Wilhaben, Seloger, Immobiliare.it, to name a few.
“The vendor simply uploads content and description,
which we edit to maximise its ranking on search engine
results,” she says. “It’s a simple process, encouraging you
to share the appeal of your property and area. A vendor
quote – such as ‘sipping wine, admiring the view to the
sound of cicadas…bliss’ – draws out the unique allure.”
A high-quality brochure is produced for each property.
WWW.PEAGREENBOATPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK
Viewings and transactions are left to the vendor, so you
remain in control, assisted by a list of useful advice on how
to show your property. Best of all, you save commission.
The standard agency commission to sell a million-euro
property in Europe is € 72,000 (6% agency commission,
plus 20% VAT), excluding legal, notary and survey fees.
Used exclusively, or to boost your marketing with another
agent, a list on the-viewing.com is a savvy tactic.
For further information, please visit the-viewing.com,
call +44 (0) 20 7993 2722 or contact Gemma Bruce directly
on gemma@the-viewing.com
 Centre Stage

Opportunities Galore
Renting remains the savvy choice for many people in a challenging property market.
So much so that Mark Tunstall, London’s Mr Super Prime, has expanded into new offices with
additional lettings specialists to deliver his trusted boutique service

T
here is attention to detail, and then there is forensic
perfectionism in road-testing a property to ensure
it meets exceptional “turn-key” standards. In prepa-
ration for tenants moving into a large house in Belgravia,
Mark Tunstall recently spent nine days systematically
checking every aspect of every amenity from shower
thermostats to wash-basin pop-ups. “Luxury properties can
have very complex heating, air-conditioning and security
systems,” he says. “It is important we have a thorough
understanding of all the details to help people move in
without a hitch.”
With expectations of quality higher than ever, it is no
wonder that people flock to London’s Mr Super Prime for
the management or rental of super-luxurious apartments
and houses in the capital’s most exclusive postcodes. In
2018, he was involved in almost half of all deals in prime
central London above £15,000 per week, and probably all
of those with rents north of £20,000 per week. With an
understanding garnered from 20 years of experience in the
lettings business – almost a generation’s worth of on-the-
ground intelligence and in-the-air zeitgeists – he has
Some of the instincts honed through both blue-sky and difficult climates.
super-luxurious “With challenges come opportunities, for both landlords
prime central and tenants,” he notes of spring 2019. “As an independent
London properties agency, working without the constant pressure of financial
available to rent targets like our more corporate contemporaries, we can
through Mark afford to give genuine, discreet and professional advice.”
Tunstall, pictured There is no one who understands better that the strength of
with colleagues the role of the trusted advisor is the cornerstone of a happy
Murdi van Hien landlord-tenant relationship. Indeed, the call for Mark’s
and Karen Asante inside knowledge has prompted a move to new offices in
Brompton Cross. Extra staff, including an additional
property manager, will help deliver the Rolls-Royce service
his clients seek.
For landlords, for example, Mark can negotiate an
advantageous “bulk buy” deal with developers to save
stamp duty. “One client has just completed on a purchase
of brand-new properties listed for £110million for less than
£70million,” he says. “And it is precisely this type of turn-
key property that remains in vogue with tenants.”
For tenants, the standard of residential space now
available to rent has never been more impressive – and
Mark’s network of key contacts opens up yet more
opportunities. “Although there have been fewer transactions
in the sub-£6,000 per week category, there have been 20
per cent more above £7,000, and we are well positioned to
do a bit of creative engineering and put together deals for
landlords and tenants alike. In some instances, our clients
have never even considered renting out their homes. We’ve
been able to tempt them with the highest calibre tenants
often prepared to pay two years of rent in advance.”
For further information, please visit tunstallproperty.co.uk
 &6-8%-24634)68=

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KING HENRY’S ROAD
PRIMROSE HILL NW3
£2,650,000
BEAUTIFULLY EXTENDED & INTERIOR DESIGNED, Leasehold with share of freehold
PROVIDING A STUNNING TWO BEDROOM APARTMENT Joint Sole Agents:
WITH AN IMPRESSIVE 80 FT LANDSCAPED GARDEN
32ft Open plan kitchen reception room Guest shower room
18ft Master bedroom Highest standard Gaggenau kitchen
En-suite bathroom with a steam shower Bio fuel fire places Rosy Khalastchy Peter Rosen
Walk in wardrobe High security front door rosy@beauchamp.com prosen@savills.com
Bedroom 2/study 80ft Private garden +44 (0)20 7722 9793 +44 (0)20 3428 2900
condenastjohansens.com
Layan Residences by Anantara, Phuket, Thailand
 MA R R AK E CH ’S #1 LUXU RY LI FE STYLE
& R ES ID E N TI A L R ESO RT

Fairmont Residences promote a new way of living for all the family that blends home
comfort and 5-star hotel-style service, with views of a world-class golf course and the majestic
Atlas Mountains. All just 12km from the vibrant, cultural hub of Marrakech.

3-8 bed freehold villas and premium plots available now from €650,000.
Discover our early purchase incentives and inspection trip offers.

+44 (0) 333 939 8780 | residences@royalpalmmarrakech.com

R OYA L PA L M M A R R A K E C H .C O M / FA I R M O N T- R E S I D E N C E S

All Marketing Materials distributed or made available to any third parties shall include such disclaimers in form and substance as reasonably required by Licensor. As of the Effective Date, the disclaimers set forth
below have been approved by Licensor; provided, however, Licensor shall have the right to modify such disclaimers and provide new disclaimers from time to time upon written notice to Developer. Fairmont Royal
Palm Residences, Marrakech (the “Resort”) is not owned, developed, or sold by Fairmont or its affiliates. Domain Palm Marrakech S.A., a Moroccan company (the “Developer”), is independently owned and operated
and is solely responsible for the ownership, development, and operation of the Resort. The Developer uses the Fairmont brand name and certain Fairmont trademarks pursuant to a limited, non-exclusive, non-
transferable and non-sublicensable license from FRHI Hotels & Resorts S. à r.l. Under certain circumstances, the license may be terminated or revoked according to its terms in which case neither the Residences nor
any part of the Resort will be identified as a Fairmont branded project or have any rights to use the Fairmont trademarks. Fairmont does not make any representations or guarantees with respect to the Residences
or the Resort and is not responsible for the Developer’s marketing practices, advertising, and sales representations.
VOGUE ASKS
Who should
I be following
on Instagram?
“Following Cardi B
[right, with Scott]
is like watching TV.
She’s so authentic.
I’ve also started
following Cindy
Sherman, who
distorts selfies
with apps – it’s
like seeing an art
show every day.”

Where should I
stay in New York?
“I just stayed at The
Bowery [above] and
it was so cosy and
comfortable. It’s also
right in the middle of
town, next to all my
favourite vegetarian
restaurants.”

How can I be
braver with
fashion? “I think
lipstick changes
a look – it’s an
instant punch.”
Retro Matte
Lipstick in Ruby
Woo, £18, Mac
Cosmetics

Thoughts on hashtags? What would

Jeremy Scott do?
“I only ever use them in a
humorous way. For instance,
when Naomi Campbell
[right] walked in the H&M
show, I hashtagged
#shesthereasontheycall
themsupermodels.”
Advice on love, life and fashion from the American designer
What’s your vice? online where you can express your
My only vice is work. I’ve never drunk feelings until you can be more public
coffee or smoked a cigarette in my life. about it. And always follow your heart.

INTERVIEW: ELLIE PITHERS. INSTAGRAM/ITSJEREMYSCOTT; MARCUS MAM;

Who does the best
vegetarian food?
“I love Café Gratitude
in LA. Sometimes I eat
there twice a day. The
acai bowl [above]
looks like two scoops
of ice cream and is so
yummy, it tastes like a
dessert – it’s the best
in the world.”
Fresh Couture eau de toilette,
How should I approach
a spring clean? “I live in
a super-minimal house.
When I’m cleaning out my
wardrobe, I ask my clothes,
‘Why weren’t you worn?’
Then I put them in storage.”
£66, Moschino
I’ll have a drink at a party with friends, but
I don’t get a kick out of it. Even when I
drink green tea, I am cautious about it.
What should I take on a long-haul flight?
The stack of old Sunday newspapers that sit
waiting to be read at the end of your bed.
Reading on planes is so good, because you’re
not sucked into your phone.
What would you do if you were President
of the United States for the day?
Right now, the most important issue for
me is LGBTQ+ people’s rights. What the
US administration is trying to do by
denying personhood is repulsive.
I’m gay and finding it difficult to tell people.
What should I do?
Every case is different, but the best starting
point is often the internet. Find a safe space
How do I get more followers on Instagram?
I am fully addicted to Giphy because it
ANNIE SCHLECHTER; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ; REX FEATURES
makes your feed more dynamic. Frances
Bean Cobain gave me a tutorial, and now
the student has surpassed the master.
What foods do you love?
As a vegetarian, pasta is like the ghetto
for me. Giacomo in Milan is the place.
How do you switch off?
I go to Maui in Hawaii – it’s so calm
and peaceful there. I love swimming in
the ocean, but I need the water to be warm,
like bath water, and for it to be so hot
outside that it drives me into the sea.
That’s why I always go in August.
What is your mantra for life?
I would rather be remembered for being
a great friend than a great designer. Q
I AM YOUR MIRROR
DOCUMENTED BY STEVEN MEISEL
GIVENCHY.COM