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At first the fusee cord was made of gut, or sometimes wire. Around 1650 chains began to
be used, which lasted longer. Gruet of Geneva is widely credited with introducing them in
1664, although the first reference to a fusee chain is around 1540. Fusees designed for
use with cords can be distinguished by their grooves, which have a circular cross
section, where ones designed for chains have rectangular-shaped grooves.
It is not known where the first watches have been created. Several European towns such
as Blois and Paris in France or Nuremberg and Augsburg in Germany lead the list. The
earliest known examples though are made in Germany. One of the earliest known
creators of watches in portable sizes was Peter Henlein (1479/80 – August 1542). Not
much is known about his life, just that he was free from the locksmiths guilt in 1509. He
became known as a maker of small portable ornamental spring-powered brass clocks,
very rare and expensive, which were fashionable among the nobility of the time. These
were sometimes worn as pendants or attached to clothing, and so may be considered
the first watches, although at over 10cm long they were much bigger than the first true
pocketwatches which appeared about half a century later, and were not able to fit in
pockets.
One such example is the ‘Melanchthon’s watch’ (48mm diameter). This is the earliest
dated watch known. It is engraved on the bottom: “PHIL[IP]. MELA[NCHTHON]. GOTT.
ALEIN. DIE. EHR[E]. 1530” (Philip Melanchthon, to God alone the glory, 1530). There
are very few watches existing today that predate 1550; only two dated examples are
known, this one from 1530 and another from 1548. A single winding kept it running for 12
to 16 hours, and it told time to within the nearest half hour. The perforations in the case
permitted one to see the time without opening the watch. The spherical cases closely
relate to the perfume pomanders which were popular in the first half of the 16th century.
They would have been afforded by only the wealthiest of merchants and royalty
and were worn on a belt along with a sword and dagger.
In future the manufacture of portable watches in Germany will stand behind the ever
growing trade in France, England and Switzerland.
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